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A58175 Observations topographical, moral, & physiological made in a journey through part of the low-countries, Germany, Italy, and France with a catalogue of plants not native of England, found spontaneously growing in those parts, and their virtues / by John Ray ... ; whereunto is added a brief account of Francis Willughby, Esq., his voyage through a great part of Spain. Ray, John, 1627-1705.; Willughby, Francis, 1635-1672. Catalogus stirpium in exteris regionibus. 1673 (1673) Wing R399; ESTC R5715 378,219 735

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evils the State is necessitated to give them public toleration and protection As for masculine venery and other works of darkness I shall not charge the Italians with them as not having sufficient ground so to do and because as Barclay saith Haec scelera tenebris damnata negari faciliùs à consciis possunt ab aemulis fingi 3. Jealousie which strangely possesses this people so that for every little suspicion they will shut up their wives in a chamber and carry the key with them not suffering them to stir abroad unless themselves accompany them To salute an Italians wife with a kiss is a stabbing matter and to call a man cornuto or Cuckold in good earnest is the greatest affront or disgrace you can put upon him The married women in Italy by this means have but bad lives being for the most part confined to their houses except when they go to Church and then they have an old woman attending them the doors of their houses shut up at dinner and supper all visits and familiar discourses with men denied them neither can they speak or smile without suspicion one reason of this among others may be because the husbands knowing themselves to be so dishonest and false to their wives they presume that had they opportunity they would not be more true to them And yet for all this guarding and circumspection are not the Italian Dames more uncorrupt than the matrons of other Nations but find means to deceive their husbands and be dishonest in spight of jealousie To these I might add Swearing which is so ordinary among all sorts the Priests and Monks themselves scarce abstaining from oaths that I believe they account it no sin It is a general custom all over Italy to sleep an hour or two after dinner in Summer time so that from two of the clock till four in the afternoon you shall scarce see any body stirring about the streets of the Cities Indeed if one sits still it is very hard to keep his eyes open at that time Either this custom did not prevail when the School of Salerno wrote their Physic precepts or that direction Sit brevis ant nullus tibi somnus meridianus was calculated for England to whose King that Book was dedicated And yet the Italian Physicians still advise people either not to sleep at all after dinner or if they must sleep to strip off their cloths and go to bed or only to take a nod in a chair sitting In many Cities of Italy are Hospitals where Pilgrims and poor travellers are entertained and have their diet and lodging for three days if they have reason to stay so long gratis besides a piece of mony when they go away There are also Hospitals to receive exposed children if I may so term them that is any without exception that shall be brought and put in at a grate on purpose whither upon ringing of a bell an Officer comes presently and receives the child and asking the party that brought it whether it hath been baptized carries it to a nurse to give it suck and there it is maintained till it be grown up The place where it is put in is so strait as to admit only children new born or very young This I look upon as a good institution in great Cities taking away from women the temptation of murthering their new-born children or destroying their conceptions in the womb to hide their shame I know what may be objected against it viz. that it emboldens them to play the wantons having so fair a way of concealing it Sed ex malis minimum In Rome Venice and some other Cities of Italy they have a way of exercising charity little used among us Several Confraternities of well-disposed persons raise sums of mony by a free contribution among themselves which they bestow yearly in portions for the marrying of poor maids which else might want husbands and be tempted to dishonest practises to maintain themselves This I look upon as well-plac'd alms and worthy the imitation it being very convenient and in a manner necessary that new-married people should have somewhat to furnish their houses and begin the world with and no less fitting that young persons should be encouraged to marry as well for multiplying of people wherein the strength of the Commonwealth chiefly consists as for the preventing those evils to which young and single persons are strongly tempted and inclined It is troublesome thing to travel with fire-arms in Italy you being forc'd in most Cities to leave them at the gate with the Guard who give you a tally or token and when you Leave the City you bring your tally and receive your arms This is done to prevent assaults and murthers which are so frequent in many Cities of Italy For this the G. Duke of Tuscany is much to be commended there being no such muthers and outrages committed in any of the Cities under his dominion as in other places so diliegent is he in searching out and severe in punishing Bravo's Cut-throats Assassins and such kind of malefactors As much might be said for the Pope in the City of Rome but in other Cities in his Territories there is killing enough When you depart from any City you must be sure to take a bill of health out of the Office that is kept every where for that purpose without which you can hardly get to be admitted into another City especially if it be in the Territory of another Prince or State If any one comes from an infected or suspected place he is forced to keep his Quarantain as they call it that is be shut up in the Lazaretto or Pest-house 40 days before he be permitted to come into the City So scrupulously careful are they to prevent Contagion In Rome and other Cities of Italy we have often observed many labourers that wanted work standing in the market places to be hired whither people that want help usually go and bargain with them Which custom illustrates that Parable of our Saviour recorded in the beginning of the 20th Chapter of S. Matthew's Gospel wherein the housholder is said to go out about the third hour and see others standing in the market-place ver 3. and in ver 6. he is said to find others about the eleventh hour and to say to them why stand ye heer all the day idle and ver 7. they answer because no man hath hired us In Italy and other hot Countreys so soon as they have cut down their corn they thresh and winnow it usually or at least a great part of it on a floor made in the open air before they bring it into the house Hence in the Scripture we read of threshing floors as open places without roof or cover Such I suppose was that where Boaz winnowed barley Ruth 3. 3. Neither is it any wonder that he should lie there all night for at Aleppo and even in Malta in Summer time they set their beds upon the roofs of
having Whores who dress the meat and do all the business They are to be hired at a very cheap rate It were a shame to mention their impudence lewdness and immodest be behaviours and practices In Catalonia Guipuscoa and some other places they are not so bad They are so lazy that in their shops they will say they have not a commodity rather than take pains to look for it not to be hired to carry a Portmantean go of an errand c. but at an excessive rate Mercers never tie up any thing they sell and if they allow paper they only rudely mumble up the commodities in it Of their fantastical and ridiculous pride and that too in the extremest poverty all the world rings If there be any employment that you would set them about which they think themselves too good for they presently say send for a French-man Indeed the French do almost all the work in Spain All these best shops are kept by French-men the best workmen in every kind are French and I believe near ¼ or ⅕ part of the people in Spain are of that Nation I have heard some travellers say that should the King of France recal all his Subjects out of Spain the Spaniards would hazard to be all starved to death Bread is very scarce and very dear in many places or Spain because of the barrenness of the soil and want of rain but chiefly because of the sloth of the people in letting a great deal of ground lie untilled and in not taking the pains to fetch corn and bread from those places where there is plenty So that in a days journey the price of bread will be trebled and in another days journey fall as much again This Summer there was a tumult at Madrid the poor people gathering about the Kings palace cried out Let the King live but let the ill government die let exactors die c. just as they did at Nuples in the rebellion under Masaniello Upon which the King sent to all the Towns about for bread-corn and in two or three days bread was very plentiful and cheap All over Catalonia bread was very cheap The Spanish bread is commended for the best of the world and well it may be if as we have heard they pick their wheat grain by grain At my being at Madrid there was an Engineer there sent by the Emperour that had invented a ●low called by the Spaniards a Sembrador to sow corn at equal distances and one grain in a hole the description whereof hath been since published in the Philosophical Transactions In all kind of good learning the Spaniards are behind the rest of Europe understanding nothing at all but a little of the old wrangling Philosophy and School-divinity The people are much discontented all over Spain complaining of Taxes evil Counsellours c. but they have a good opinion of and age generally well-affected to their King whose intentions they say are very good As for their habit and dress in that they are to be commended that they are constant to the same fashions though they be not the most convenient that might be devised To change for the better I think it rather commendable than blame-worthy but to change out of meer levity or an apish imitation of others is foolish and unreasonable They wear great hats with broad crowns and the top breader than the bottom Their hair most commonly but especially when they travel they tie up in a knot behind aud sometimes braid like womens Their bands lie upon black collars just of the same bigness or a little bigger They are joyned to the collar and they put on collar and band together They wear very much Cambrick half-shirts and have their sleeves open before and behind both Winter and Summer they have great skirts upon their doublets Their breeches are very streight and close to their thighs and buttoned down on each side and reach a little lower than the knee They wear very slight-wrought black silk-stockins that the white linnen-stockings which they wear underneath may be seen through them Their shooes just fit for their feet very light and thin with low heels Over their doublets they wear a close coat or jerkin with open sleeves like the doublet and for the most part with hanging sleeves like childrens yet never reaching lower than their skirts a very long sword and a short dagger hanging just behind them and at last over all a cloak with a great cape The women wear great Vardingales standing so far out an each side that to enter in at an ordinary door they are fain to go side-ways when they go abroad are covered with a vail of black having only a hole left for one eye The poor people wear shooes made of packthread The most noble sport in Spain is the Jeu de Taureau or Bull-fighting practised at Valentia Madrid c. At Madrid 3 times in the year where in the Market-place a brave Don on horseback and a great many pages on foot fight with a wild Bull When one Bull is killed or much wounded they turn in another Seldom but some of the pages are killed And with these cruel and bloody spectacles the people are much delighted as were the Romans of old in the time of Heathenism He that desires to know more of the good qualities of the Spaniards may read Mr. Galliards Character of Spain FINIS CATALOGUS STIRPIUM IN Exteris Regionibus A nobis Observatarum Quae vel non omnino vel parcè admodum IN ANGLIA Sponte proveniunt LONDINI Typis Andreae Clark Impensis J. Martyn Regalis Societatis Typographi apud quem prostant ad insigne Campanae 〈◊〉 Coemeterio Divi Pauli MDCLXXIII PRAEFATIO OCto plus minus abhinc annis plantarum indagandarum studio in transmarinas regiones profectus Germaniae utriusque Italiae Galliae bonam partem peragravi Cujus itineris quis fructus fuerit quem nunc exhibeo Stirpium exoticarum Catalogus Amice Lector te certiorem faciet An tibi titulos nomina nuda perlegere jucundum futurum sit nescio mihi certe Plantas ipsas liberas spontis suae quales eas alma tellus è benigno suo sinu effundit contemplanti incredibilis quoedam voluptas oborta est nec minus gaudebam ut cum Clusio loquar nova aliqua stirpe primùm inventa quàm si amplissimum thesaurum offendissem Cúmque plurimas quotidie vel mihi antea incognitas vel Britanniae nostrae hospites obvias haberem magnum me operae pretium peregrinando fecisse ratus in Hispaniam quoque profectionem meditabar verùm praetextu belli Anglis omnibus publico programmate Regis Galliae è finibus suis excedere jussis Hispanicum iter minùs tutum fore ratus in patriam reversus sum Liceat jam mihi pauca quaedam de Plantis in genere à me observata Praefationis loco Catalogo praemittere I. Quo ad meridiem Solis cursum propius
they call Garganico The air is clear and healthful but must needs be sharp in Winter time being so near the high mountains among which Baldus is famous for the great variety of choice simples growing thereon of which Joan. Pona an Apothecary of Verona hath written a particular Catalogue and description Which Book and thereupon the Paduan herbarists making simpling voyages yearly thither hath gotten Baldus its reputation for I am very confident that many hills about the Alps produce as great variety and as choice plants as that Not for from Verona is the Lago di Garda anciently called Lacus Benacus which furnishes the City with plenty of excellent Fish especially trouts Sardinie and a sort of Fish of the Trout kind called Carpione peculiar to this lake Those we saw were not a foot long of the fashion of Trout We travelled from Verona to Mantua 24 miles by the way passing through some large Villages but no considerable Town Six miles short of Mantua at a place called Marmirola we viewed an elegant palace of the Dukes richly furnished and adorned with pictures and statues The City of Mantua is of great antiquity strong by situation as standing in the middle of a lake and well fortified Schottus saith that it is 4 miles in circuit hath 8 gates and about 50000 souls It seemed to us a great City but not answerably populous having not yet recovered it self of the losses it sustained when it was miserably sackt by the Emperor Ferdinand II. his Army in the year 1630. A little out of the City stands a pretty house of the Dukes called Palazzo del Te wherein there is a square room having the roof arched round in form of Cupola called the Giants-hall so contrived that if two stand in the opposite corners one laying his ear to the wall may hear what the other whispers with his face to the corner which he that stands in the middle of the room or in the corner on the same side shall not The like room we were told there is in the Duke of Parma's Palace at Caprarola Our whispering place in the Cathedral Church of Glocester is of somewhat a different make In a Village near Mantua called Ande now Petula was born the Prince of Latine Poets P. Virgilius Maro In this City are two Societies of Virtuosi Academies they call them the one stile themselves Accesi the other Timidi This City hath according to the fate of her neighbours undergone several changes of Government In the year 1328. Lewis Gonzaga by the favour of the people made himself Lord of it from whom the present Duke is descended In the year 1433. John-Francis Gonzaga was created Marquess of Manina by the Emperor Sigismund IV. In the year 1530. Frederic Gonzaga was created Duke of Mantua by the Emperor Charles V. The Dukes yearly revenue is said to be 400000 crowns according to the account we had of it in particulars somewhat less viz. the mills pay 4000 crowns per annum The Jews who are about 6000 in number and wear no badge of distinction give 20000 crowns per annum The rest of the Citizens of Mantua 70000 crowns The Countrey yields 60000 pistols and Montserrat 13000 in all 386000 crowns the year Yet is the present Prince through ill husbandry not proportioning his expences to his income become very poor being indebted to the Venetians as Leti saith four millions of crowris To advance his Revenue at the time of our being there he was put to that pitiful shift of debasing his coin so that none of his money would pass further then his own Territory His name was Carolus Gonzaga II. since dead and his Son Caroulus Ferdinandus succeeds him in his estates There are besides of this Family 4 or 5 small Princes feudatory of the Empire but Sovereign Lords having Jura Regalia in their petty States viz. The Princes of 1. Novellara 2. Bozolo 3. Gustalla 4. Sabionetta in which the male line is failed 5. Castiglione We were told that these Princelets were obliged to attend the Duke of Mantua's Court three months in the year The Dukes Council of State or Privy Council consists only of six of the chief Nobility In these parts all the children of the common people have equal shares of their Parents Estates at least their moveables The wife when her husband dies carries her dowry back with her if she dies first then her children if she leaves any divide her dower equally among them If she die childless her dower is divided half goes to her husband and half to her next kindred If a woman hath had children by one husband and he dying she marries again and hath children by her second husband her estate is divided into equal parts one moiety goes to her first husbands children and the other to her second 's We took boat for Ferrara which brought us first into the lake then into the chanel of the River Mincius which runs out of the Lago di Garda called in Latine Lacus Benacus at a strong Fort of the Venetians called Peschiera and coming to Mantua spreads it self into a lake of 5 miles long At 16 miles end we came to a Bridg and Sluce at a place called Governo where we entred the River Po going down stream we passed by Ostia 10 miles distant from Governo and 10 miles further down Massa both on our left hand and 7 miles below Massa came to Stellata a large Village on our right hand under the Pope Heer the Territory of Mantua ended Eight miles beyond this place we left the River Po at a Village called Il Ponte and struck up an artificial Chanel of 4 miles long which brought streight to the Gates of Ferrara This City is very considerable as well for its greatness as its strength It is said to be about 7 miles in compass and besides the advantage of its siruation in a fenny level it is strongly fortified with walls an bulwarks and surrounded with a broad and deep trench full of water so that I look upon it for a City of that bigness as the strongest in all Italy It had formerly a Prince of its own but is now with all its territory subject to the Pope From Ferrara we went with the Procaccio or Courrier to Bologna shifting our boat at a place called Mal-Albergo some 17 miles from Ferrara where we went up into a higher chanel viz. the Rhenus Bononiensis and passing through 9 locks or sostegni we arrived at Bologna distant by water from Ferrara 45 miles A great part of the Countrey we passed through between Ferrara and Bologna is a perfect level and fenny ground much like to the Isle of Ely in England Bononia is a large City of a round figure and yet 7 or 8 miles in circuit The houses not tall fair portico's on each side the streets convenient to walk in as well in Summer to defend one from the scorching beams of the Sun as in Winter to shelter form
they do Sword-fish upon the coast of Calabria and Sicily Abundance of Cider made about S. Sebastian and Bayonne From S. Sebastian I travelled through Orogna Irun on the left hand of which is Fontarabia a strong Fort just on the Frontiers of Spain About 1½ league from Irun is the river that parts France and Spain In the middle of this river is an Island where the Kings of France and Spain met when Lewis XIV the present King married Philip the IV his daughter The island was divided just in the middle and a house built so that at the table where they sate to eat the King of France sate in France and the King of Spain in Spain Spain is in many places not to say most very thin of people and almost desolate The causes are 1. A bad Religion 2. The tyrannical Inquisition 3. The multitude of Whores 4. The barrenness of the Soil 5. The wretched laziness of the people very like the Welsh and Irish walking slowly and always cumbred with a great Cloke and long Sword 6. The expulsion of the Jews and Moors the first of which were planted there by the Emperour Adrian and the latter by the Caliphs after the Conquest of Spain 7. Wars and Plantations In all the Towns especially in the South and West parts of Spain a great many ruines of houses to be seen Within a quarter of a league of a Town you begin to see ground ploughed else all a wild Countrey and nothing but Rosemary Cistus Juniper Lavender Broom Lentiscus c. growing in the fields and on the hills Little or no hay any where in Spain they feeding their mules and horses with straw At least one half of Spain is mountainous The Spaniards are not so abstinent as most people take them to be eating the best they can get and freely enough if it be at another mans cost and in Inns never refusing Partridges Quails c. for the dearness if they have but money Laziness and sloth makes them poor and poverty makes them pinch their bellies and fare hardly They seldom mingle water with their wine it being a common saying among them Vino poco puro though all over Spain the wine is very hot and strong They delight much in Pimentone i. e. Guiny pepper and mingle it with all their sauces In roasting of meat they never use dripping pans but draw the coals just under the meat which though it be not so cleanly yet is the quicker and more thrifty way for saving of fewel They tear Rabbets in sunder with their hands when they are almost roasted and stew them in a pot with water and Pimentone To toast bread they throw it upon the coals They long and ask for every thing they see to avoid which a Merchant that travelled with me was wont to put in some thing into his victuals which they did not love They take Tobacco much in snuff and if one take out a box of snuff he must give some to all the company The best person in the company at table cuts and tears the meat in pieces and gives to every one his share They are most impertinently inquisitive whence you come whither you go what business you have c. most horribly rude insolent and imperious uncivil to strangers asking them What do you come into our Countrey for we do not go into yours This is to be understood of the middle and inferiour sort of people many of the Gentry being very civil and well-bred Their children are the most unmannerly and ill-bred of any in the world The sons of French fathers and Spanish women when they are grown up often turn their fathers out of doors having many privileges above them for being born in Spain They are extremely given to lying Almuzzos and such kind of fellows not to be believed or trusted in any thing they promise They ride altogether upon mules and carry their Portmanteau's before them for fear they should be lost or stollen from behind them they lie between a high pummel of the saddle and an iron hook Instead of stirrops persons of quality use great clogs of wood of the shape of shooes without heels They cut away the mules hair close to the skin under the Saddles and Portmanteau's to avoid galling Of this bastard breed of Animals the males are usually bigger than the females Q. Whether the reason be that they are always bred of a mare and an he ass 2. They piss very often Q. Whether the reason be the sharpness of their urine or the smallness of their bladder 3. They piss almost always when they go through water 4. They shooe them with shooes a great deal broader than their feet to prevent I suppose the breaking of their hoo●s Under the mouths of their mules of burthen they usually hang a net with provender in it These beasts are better at climbing of mountains than horses have a greater courage to endure long and hard travel and besides are maintained with less charge The Spaniards seldom ride alone but stay for a troppas as they do for a Caravan in Arabia The common phrases or forms of salutation when they meet or pass by one another are Garda Dios vostes i. e. vous autres God defend you A Dios adieu Vaga con Dios God go along with you When they are angry Cornuto i. e. Cuckold is the first word and sometimes Cornutissimo When they speak to their mules or boys they send of errands they say Anda Cornuto Go Cuckold When they refuse a courtesie or complement to drink first go first or the like they say Non per vita mea no by my life At any thing strange or ridiculous they cry out Cuerpo di Dios or di Cristo Body of God or body of Christ When they call to one to make him hear instead of Escoutes in French or Senti in Italian they cry O-yes just as our Criers do in England When they put off a beggar not giving him an Alms they say Vostes perdonnè Good friend pardon or excuse me As for their Religion the Spaniards are the most orthodox and rigid Romanists in the world it being a saying among them Faltando in uno punto à Dios. If you leave the Church in one punctilio God be with you you must needs be damned All over Spain there are abundance of pitiful wooden Crosses set up in the middle of heaps of stone Under all the pictures of the Virgin Mary is written Concebida sin●peccado originale At the Ave-Mary bell they all fall down upon their knees whereas in other Countries they are contented only to pluck off their hats When they have done their Devotions as also after their meals when they take away and when they go to bed they say Sia lodato il santissimo Sacramento Praised be the most holy Sacrament For fornication and impurity they are the worst of all Nations at least in Europe almost all the Inns in Andaluzia Castile Granada Murcia c.