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ID	Title	Author	Corrected Date of Publication (TCP Date of Publication)	STC	Words	Pages
A92196	An itinerary contayning a voyage, made through Italy, in the yeare 1646, and 1647. Illustrated with divers figures of antiquities. Never before published. / By Jo: Raymond, Gent.	Raymond, John, Gent.; Cross, Thomas, fl. 1632-1682, engraver.	1648 (1648)	Wing R415; Thomason E1128_1; ESTC R33233	71,514	330

the Garden you passe through to it is this Inscription on a Marble Maronis Vrnam Cum Adjacente Monticulo extensaque ad Cryptam planitie Modiorum trium cum dimidio circiter Vrbano VIII annuente c. Renovanda Mem. Praesentis Concessionis singulis XXVIII annis in actis Cur Archiepiscopalis Having read this we went into the Tombe now of this Forme and scituation As in the page following A. Virgills Tombe B. The entrance into the Grotte C. a little chappell taken for Virgills Tombe but falsely This Tombe of the Prince of Poets is built in a Rotunda or Cupola about five paces long within the walls are of Bricke in square after the Roman way the outside is of Massive stone all coverd now with Bushes amongst which three or foure Bay trees an immortall Embleme of the Prince of Poets there interd shoot forth about the height of a man round it lye scatterd ruines that testifie its former beauty In the rock just opposite to the entrance where his knowne Epitaph of Mantua me genuit was that being decayed is plac't a Marble stone with these verses STAĪSI Cencovius 15 89 Qui Cineres Tumuli haec vestigia conditur olim Ille hoc qui cecinit pascua rura Duces Can Rec MDLIIII What dust lies here this Heap protects his Hearse Who whilome warbled Fields Farmes Fights in Verse The Crypta Neapolitana a perfect signe of the Roman Magnificence is the rockie Mountaine Pausylippus cut through very high spacious and well pav'd so that for the space of a mile two Coaches may goe on Front under earth in the midst is a Madonna with a Lampe perpetually burning the words at the Incounter are Alla Marina Alla Montagne At the going out of the Grotte wee strooke towards the right and arriv'd at the Grotta del Cane which hath some innate property to kill every living thing that enters if not speedily cast into the lake Agnano 15. paces distant We saw the experiment as for the most part it is shewn in a Dog which seem'd to loose his vitall force by degrees but afterwards being throwne into the Lake reviv'd Hard by are the Stowes of San Gennaro reasonable hot with the odour of Sulphure Hence turning to the left we came to Capuchins and saw the stone whereon San Gen naro was beheaded with Nasita a Mountaine in the Sea and a little towards the right hand is the Sulphatara or hill of Brimstone on which no grasse or hearb growes but t is all white with ashes it still casting out of severall holes a continuall smoke with Flame making the very earth to boile The ground is hollow underneath and makes a hidious noise if strooke upon with a Hammer or the like These hills were cald by the ancient Leucogei Campus Phlegraeus and Forum Vulcani whose Kingdome if in any part of the world is here about the Fire breaking out even in the high wayes Here they compose Medicinall Pots of Brimstone Advancing forward into the Suburbs of Pozzuoles wee saw an Amphitheatre and Ciceros house cald Academia Afterwards being come to the Port wee tooke a barque to passe over the bay which is round about fild with remnants of those Romans magnificence that liv'd there The first place wee saw after wee were set to Land was the Mercato del Sabbato formerly a a Cirque and the buriall place of the ancient Romans From thence we past through the Elisian Fields as they call them a plaine spot of Earth between the Mount Misenus the Augustins Convent of twenty Acres and came to the ancient Misenus so cal'd from the Trumpeter of Aeneas there interd the old Poets cald it A erius because of the many Sotteran Caves in it of which many are yet to be seen The chiefe is the Piscina Mirabili before which is the Mare Mortuum This Piscina cald mirabili because of the wonderfull art t is built with was a reserver of fresh water for the Navie which because this stands so neare the Sea was brought sixtie mile It hath eleven Pillars in the length foure in breadth about foure and fourty in all The materiall t is plaisterd with in the inside is as durable as stone yet no man knowes of what it is compos'd some conceive it to be of the whites of Egges and dust of Marble mingled together From hence leaving Lucullus his house at the left wee went downe into the Cento Camerelle or Nerôs hundred Chambers where hee kept his Prisoners a most hidious place Below that towards the Sea-side is the Temple of Hercules the place where Agrippina Neros Mother was kild the Pescheries of Hortensius Tacitus his sons house with many other ancient fragments which we saw though with much paines From thence we tooke boat for Baia where the Castle built by Charles the fifth of France is strong going thither we could discerne the foundations of Cimeria and old Baia underneath the Sea with the Via Consularis overwhelm'd by the water and on the shoare nothing but ruines Hereabouts Caron was feign'd to passe with his Boate Here we set againe to Land and saw the Temple of Venus the Sepulcher of Agrippina with diverse figures and her Pallace of the same worke The Temple of Diana at the left the Bathes of Trullius The houses of Marius Pompey Nero standing aloft Hereabout the Sea water is naturally hot Hard by we went into Ciceros Bathes as gallant and entire an Antiquity as any in the Tract of Pozzuolo These waters were so soveraigne not many years since over most diseases that over every Bath was written for what cures it was good of which Inscriptions some letters yet stand but the Physitians of Palermo as they tell the story finding those waters prejudiciall to their custome went with instruments expresly and demolisht those writings so that for the present they are unusefull the said Physitians being all cast away in their returne From these Bathes we went up to the Stowes of Tritola extreamely hot even to Suffocacation yet contrary to the Grottadel Cane that choking below and harmelesse above these coole and refreshing below but almost stifeling above From thence we took horse and past by the Lacus Lucrinus the greater part whereof is now coverd with the Monte Nuovo which mountaine as their tradition is was rais'd in one night a mile high from the ashes which came out of Sulfatara and so coverd the Lucrin Lake Tommaso Fonnare an old man of Pozzuolo that dyed three yeares since remembred of that mountaines being made in one night a hundred yeares agoe After that wee rode to the Lake Avernus where abouts was the Poets Acheron or descent into hell at one side of the Lake is the Temple of Apollo at the other the Sybilla Cumanas Grotte T is very spacious at the end is a Magnificent ascent where the Oracle stood with the way that lead to Cuma Her bath yet stands and her Chambers painted in Mosaick worke yet all under ground

Infame rais'd where a Magicians house was puld downe who for a time poysond the whole City I omit not their excellency in Statuary Limming Architecture Gardning Sceanes Musick in which all Europe gives them the precedency In what perfection they have these faculties you may conclude from these Instances Upon a Sepulcher in S. Peters at Rome in a Combent posture lie the feminine Statues of Old age and of Youth In the latter the Sculpturer hath so exceeded Nature for Limbes Features and Comelinesse that t is said a Spaniard at his Beads left his Devotions to expiate his sense on that Niobe-like Lady and for that reason a vaile of black Marble now covers Youths nakednesse whilst her neighbour old Age wants a Smock For limming one Mattia Casale of Sienna though no eminent Artist drew the Picture of a Prince so exactly and with that vivacity that in the Princes eyes hee plac't his own Effigies perfectly discernable as in the Originall Sir Henry Wotton a friend to Ingenuity and a great admirer of it in the Italian had transported out of Italy a Piece of two Dogs combating for a bone done with that life that a third more living Curre entring into the Roome very eagerly assaulted the Colours which wanted nothing but motion to resist him For their Architecture I referre you to their Cities A Flandrian Embassadour leaving Florence told the Great Duke his City deserv'd to bee seen never but on Holy-dayes For their Gardens I dare considently avow all Christendome affords none so voluptuous as those within the Walls and Territory of Rome and at Bagnaia as I remember there 's a Walke for a hundred paces archt with Fountaines so that a man may passe drye under the Element of water A trick might raise a Question in the Schooles Their Sceanes or as they terme them Operas are Regalios they have not yet fully communicated to us their other Arts wee daily borrow A yeare since in a Representation at Venice Phaeton in his Charriot drawne by foure Naturall well pamperd Steeds were all hurld over the Theater in an Artificiall cloud In this they but imitate Nature marke how they subdue her At the Marriage of the Duke of Florence there was brought on the Stage a Balletta or dance of Horses whilst an Ape playde the ayre on a Gittarre A Florentin said a third Miracle was intended Viz a Consort of Parachitos voices but the Schollars had not got their lesson perfect against the day appointed for the Nuptialls They are so addicted to Musick especially that of the Voyce which indisputably is the best that great Persons keep their Castrati viz. Eunuch's whose throates and complexions scandalize their breeches Neither is the Rout lesse propense to that though with lesser skill and art There 's no Fachin or Cobler but can finger some Instrument so that when the heats of the Day are tyr'd out to a coole Evening the Streets resound with confused yet pleasant Notes Their Carnavall is the fitest Season to vent any humours Hee 's most extold that can act the Mimick best So many men so many Crochets some abusive others for Mirth A Sanesian perhaps to satyrize on the French Vanity got on a Sute a la Mode with all things correspondent but for his trimming where wee place Gold Buttons as downe the Breeches Round the knees along the skirts c. he wore little Hobby Horse Bells and on his Crest stood a Cocks combe Triumphant Thus whilst he footed it gingerly through the streets the spectators voushsaft him no other Title then Monsieur From these passages I have here cited the Reader may collect of what temper this people is by these following what that of the Country Southern climates Philosophically refine the braine those that have adorn'd Italy with their singular endowments owe perhaps as much to their Countrey as she to them Yet most certainely had Romulus his Successours aspird no farther then the Mud wall hee left them had those Legions of Worthies never beene borne there wee should never have had such an esteeme of this Cisalpine clod the fertility of which I attribute not to the Soyle but Site The Earth yealdes these five Harvests successively First in June that of Silke in July of diverse fruits in August that of Corne which they afterwards sow with Millio Rice Turkie Wheate or the like graine and within two moneths have another croppe In September that of their wines In October that of Oyle Most of those places celebrated by the old Poets for the rich gifts of Bacchus are degenerated from their pristine worth yet in lieu of those others are so enobled that in a Moderate computation they have no lesse then twenty distinct Species of Liquor to please the Gusto the most dilicious and but the Ethnick Ambrosia in a Christian Phrase they call Lachrymae Christi They have few trees but what wee have seene in these parts The Hesperian Apple or Orange Tree is of a most ravishing beauty perpetually Verdant bearing an Hortyard of Blossoms greene and ripe Fruite altogether Amongst their Medicinall Plants scarce knowne amongst us but in Apothicaries shoppes I tooke notice of one Odoriferous Hearbe called Basilico which hath this innate power that if laid under a stone in some moyst place in two dayes it produceth a Scorpion this I can assert by experience and to countenance this story there fell out a strange accident in my stay at Siena A Gentleman was so pleas'd with the smell of this Basilico that he had some dry'd and beaten into powder which he snuft up imagining it of the same force with Tobacco to cleare the head but hee bought the experience at the price of his life for hee dyed distracted His skull being afterwards opened by the Chyrurgion a nest of Scorpions were found feeding on his Braine For their creatures they have many not known to this Island but for curiosity About Rome they plow the land with Buffolos neere Sienna they hunt the wild Boare with the Rowbuck the Wolfe the Porcupine and the Tasso Cane or Mountaine Dog They have many Reptilias of strange natures The Cimici are most Troublesome bed fellowes but Fleas in Folio yet so dainty as they will chuse their flesh my Chamberfellowes face hath lookt bigge as Boreas with them in one night when they have not so much as toucht my skin or disturbd my sleepe They are very offensive to his nostrills that destroyes them The Cantherides are greene flyes by day and in the night passe about the fields a pleasing spectacle like flying Glowormes with fire in their Tayles A Rimarra is a Philanthropall creature in forme like a Lyzzard in bignesse much exceeding it A Countryman told mee nature had so provided that the property of that beast was thus If a Peasent lay to repose himselfe in the shade The Rimarra will vigilantly attend him if a Serpent approach with which she is at enmity shee tickles the Countryman in the eare summoning him to stand on