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A58408 The Scots gard'ner in two parts, the first of contriving and planting gardens, orchards, avenues, groves, with new and profitable wayes of levelling, and how to measure and divide land : the second of the propagation & improvement of forrest, and fruit-trees, kitchen hearbes, roots and fruits, with some physick hearbs, shrubs and flowers : appendix shewing how to use the fruits of the garden : whereunto is annexed The gard'ners kalendar / published for the climate of Scotland by John Reid ... Reid, John, Gardener.; Reid, John, Gardener. Gard'ners kalendar. 1683 (1683) Wing R764_PARTIAL; ESTC R22175 97,749 153

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fair water and serve it up with a little sweet butter beat i. e. tumbled in the Sawce-pan above the coal The young shoots of colworts will serve the same way Purslain may be eaten green with sugar and Vineger or Oyl stew'd with meat besides the pickled Lettice green as purslain and so cresses Chervil Burnet burrage flowers and wood sorrall Spinag is excellent floves being boyled with lamb or Veall with a little sorrall therein as also choped dishes thereof with butter The same way use beets also make green broth of them with leeks fagot of thyme and parsly In some stoves and broths you may put Arag Marigold leaves Violet leaves Straw-berrie leaves Bugloss Burrage and Endive In Pottage put Iuice of sorrall fagot of thime and parlsly and in most of broths In the sawce or gravy of Rost mutton and capon and in all stewed dishes bruise shallot or Rub the dishes therewith You may stove leeks with a cock Onions may be baked with a little butter if you want meat also make use of them with rost meat especially geese and to most fresh fishes in which parsly and thyme fagot is mainly used Boyl coleflowers in water mixt with a little milk then pour it off and mix them in the stew-pan with sweet butter seasoned with salt and so serve them up about boyld mutton Boyl Cabbage with Beef reserving the top of the pot to powr on when dished up about the beef Boyl Scorzonera pe●●e off its broun rind wherein consists its bitterness slice and fry it with butter When skirrets ar boyld and pealed Roll them in flowre and fry with butter Boyl and peal parsneeps chop and bruise them well powre on butter and set them on a coal and if you please strew a little cinamon upon them Carrots are so used or only dished by shavers Be et rave boyld pealed shaved and when cold served up with vinegar and sugar besides the pickled Beet-raves Parsneeps carrots are very good served up whole or sliced about meat as turneeps usually with fat broth poured thereon Potatoes as Parsneeps or for want of butter take sweet milk 5. Of drinks as of Aples to make cyder I cannot name our cyder Aples for I use to mix all the ripe at once in the orchard that is of a fine Juice and easie to separat from the flesh and pears that have plenty of Juice and hard flesh though harsh In France they extoll the Rennet cyder in England the Hereford Redstrake Which in France they set at naught they speak of genetmoil and musts some pipens and parmains And for Perry the bromsbury and Ruddy horse pear All which and many more Hugh Wood Gard'ner at Hamiltone has to sel But now the different soils begets alterations in fruits besides the climate yet both defects may be a little helped The first by using all diligence to prepare the ground throughly as is directed in Chap. 2. Fallowing is a most commendable essay The second by graffing and regraffing upon early good fence and shelter round the ground are very conducible To make this excellent Wine provide trough and beatters press and harbag lagallon and tappering fat barrels and hogsheads for even by the common screw press I have made a hogshead cyder in a day be sure your vessells be sweet else you spoil all white Wine Sack-cask or such as keept cyder before I have heard of cyder-cask 3 Inches thick in the staves which I believe is of great Advantage in preserving the liquor but if any be tainted put a little unstaked Lyme Stone and a little water in the Barrell and stop it close when stood a little while and jumbled pour out and wash clean that will cure The fruit being gathered ripe as before let them ly ten or twelve days if summer fruit and near the double of that time if winter sorts but the late ripe that gets frosts is not good cyder mix not with unripe ones neither suffer leaves nor stalks among them When they are small beat put them in the harbag within the press far and so screw them hard again and again and emptie it thereof and put in more and do as before and empty the receiver into the tappering fat and therein cover it close with a canvass till the morrow at that time before you tun it where the gross lee may fall to the bottom then draw it off at a tap three Inches from the bottom leaving that dreg behind The which may go among the pressings for water cyder the clearer you tun it into the barrels the less it ferments and that 's best cyder for often cyder spends its strength to free it self of the grosser parts therefore while your cyder ferments leave the vent pin loose but keep close the bung for preserving the prodigall wast of its spirit and as soon as the working begin to allay drive the vent pin dead to and this will be perhaps in a fortnight if it begins to work Immediatly some times not till the Spring But keep fast the pin till it begins to work and that you mind to bottle of it do as soon as fully clear and fine which is ordinarly at Spring Put a plum great of fine white loaf sugar in each bottle and above all make your corks fast and close then set them in the celler amongst sand To make the water cyder put 1 ● as much water as you had cyder upon the new pressed marce to stand covered in tubs 4 or 5 dayes then press them and boyl the liquor scumming it till the scum cease to rise fast then take it off for too much boyling wasteth its spitits and put in tubs or coolers and when cold tun it up when done working which ●ll not be so violent as best cyder make the pin fast and in a short time it s for drinking A little ginger cloves juniper berries or such may be boyl'd in it if they please your tast The making of Perry differs not from that of cyder To make Cherrie Wine to every pound ripe fruit stampt put a Chopin spring-Spring-water and ¼ pound fin white sugar boyl the water and sugar scum it and put in the juice of your Cherries let it boyl up again take it off the fire run it through a hair-sive and when it s throughly cold put it in a stone pot and after 6 or 7 dayes draw it into bottles putting a bit loaf sugar in each in a quarter year you may fall a drinking it will keep a year if you would have it stronger then use no more water than sugar After the sawe manner you may make wine of Rasps Currans Goosberries or Take currans very ripe bruise and strain them and to every pint of the Iuice put a pound and ¼ sugar into a stone or earthen pot scum it often and at a weeks end draw it off and take out the setlings and put in the liquor again do this till it be fine then bottle it and at a weeks end if
it be not fine in the bottles shift it into other bottles Gather your Goosberries e're they be too ripe and for every three pound stampt fruit a chopin of water and a pound sugar steep them 24 houres then strain them put the liquor into a a vessel close stopt a fortnight or three weeks then draw it off if you find it fine otherwayes suffer it longer and if not fine yet rak it It s usuall to make it thus unboyl'd because it contracts a broun colour in boyling To every pint Rasps a pound sugar let them stand two dayes in an earthen pot often stirring and bruising them then put them in a woollen bag to hang up 24 houres and more till the liquor drop out into a stone pot suffer it there till fermented and scum'd and at a weeks end or sooner if fine bottle it and at another weeks end shift it into fresh bottles that you may leave the setlings behind thus shift them so long as you see any settlement the which you may put in a bottle by it self Of some sorts of Plumes as damasons c. may be made wine That called Cherrie brandie is a bottle half full of geens fill'd up with brandi● sometimes Jumbled a little and in a moneths time is fit for drinking Or if you put the like quantity of Goosberries instead of Che●ries that will make the brandie very Delicious Cherries best for wine are blackheart morella I think the red geen most excellent See Chap. 3. Sect. 2. Of Goosberries the great Chrystal and of currans the great Dutch red also the red Rasp To have Ail of Liquorish slice it very small and pour Water on it when at the boyl there cover it close till the morrow powr off this wort and on more hot-water to stand as long to search it throughly add your worts together and boyl with a little dry Wormwood Carduus Benedictus but the greatest difficulty is to barme it when cold as wort of malt yet the stronger you make it the easier it will take or if you have the conveniency of settlings of good wort of malt to boyl with it that will facilitate the work To have good metheglin take one part of clarified Hony and eight parts of pure Water and boyl well together in a Copper vessel till the consumption of the half but while it boyls take off the scum and when done boyling and beginnes to cool tun it up and it will work of it self as soon as done working stop it very close Some advises to bury it under ground three moneths and that to make if lose both smell and tast of Hony and Wax and tast very like Wine I use to add dry Rosmary and sweet Marjorum in boyling some barms it as Ail which I have practised effectually 6. To know what Fruits and Herbes to make choice of for our plantations The French Fruit succeeds not well with us in England are good Aples but Holland for Ston-fruit especially Peaches and Cherries and Scotland for Pears The best Aple for the Table is the Golden Pepin we have also Rennets Russets c. very good And for the Kitchen the Codling Lidingtown and Rubies with hundreds for both But the best Pears for the Table are English Bergamot Swanegg excellent Pears and red Pear Achans c. The wardens are good Keepers and Kitchen Fruit and multitudes more Of Cherries the Kentish and Morella c. Of Plumes Primordials Mussell Imperial c. The common and Orenge Apricoks the newington and nutmeg Peaches Peaches bears better with us than Apricocks The Portugall Quince and thinshell'd Wallnut Of Goosberries great White great Red and great Yellow Of Currans the great red Dutch early red and the white Of Rasps both the white and red The great red Straw-berrie and the Virginian which is more early Of Artichocks both the great and the prickly Great white Beans and white Kidnees Of Peas Barnees Hotspures Hasties and the sickle Peas c. If you can get Hordium nudum that is naked barley and sow as I directed with Peas it yealds an incredible increass The Dutch Asparagus and Cabbage lettice The sorrall that usually shoots not for Stoves c. And Yellow wood and French for Sallades The white Beet and smooth Spinage Curled Parsly and Cresses Shallot and Roccumbol French leeks and Straws-brugh onions Candy Cole-flower and our own great Scots white Cabbage Crisp Tansie and curled Spearmint Sweet Fennell and common Rosmary Sweet Marjorum and red Sage The black Scorzonera and Orenge Carrot The small round smooth Turneep Smooth Dutch Parsneep and small Radish clear as Chrystall See Chap. 6. for more It s to be noted that the ingenious and most industrious Hugh Wood Gard'ner at Hamiltoun can acommodate you with the above mentioned Fruits together with multitudes of other sorts whither English Dutch or Scots THE CONCLUSION Proposing SCOTLANDS Improvement THere is no way under the Sun so probable for improving our Land as Inclosing and Planting the same Therefore I wish it were effectually put in practice FINIS Because of the Authors absence there are several things escaped the press wherefore the Reader is earnestly desired to amend these here marked viz. Pag. 1. line 22. these garrets Read these Garrets Pag. 3. l. 20. Centre at least the r. Centre at least the Ibid l. 31. confirments r. confinements P. 9. l. 21. 90 degrees r. 60 degrees P. 11. l. 30. fig. 2. r. of fig. 2. P. 17. l. 17. Pole r. Pole so P. 27. l. 9. from by hawing r. from weeds by hawing Ibid l. 11. train r. trimm P. 28. l. 25. side each r. side of each P. 32. l. 3. drawing r. draining Ibid l. 18. recovering r. recountring Ibid l. 24. conveniency in viewing there 1. conveniency in viewing there P. 33. l. 9. make r. marke P. 35. l. 25. know reason r. know no reason P. 36. l. 23. move r. more P. 41. in the example of division the figures above the dividend stands one place too farr towards the right hand P. 52. l. 26.23 r. 32. P. 60. l. 10. Cirumposition r. Circumposition Ibid l. 31. sow r. saw P. 61. l. 32. by r. be P. 70. l. 16. heatly r. heathy P. 78. l. 3. seed in the wood they r. seed in the P. 92. l. 17. know r. knew The Page before 96. l. 4. apricocks train spread r. a Peacocks train spread Pag. 96. last line head the r. head than the P. 101. l. 10. or r. ar Ibid l. 26. distance from another r. distance another Pag. 103. l. 1. cherault r. chervil P. 105. l. 7. graws r. gnaws Ibid l. 19 Balme r. Bawme P. 108. l. 29. chalk r. check P. 112. l. 33. ●o r. or P. 113. l. 29. Rannuculases 1. Ranunculuses P. 121. l. 21. r. one third P. 122. l. 4. sawe r. same THE GARD'NERS KALENDAR Shewing The most seasonable times for performing his HORTVLAN AFFAIRS Monthly throughout the Year AND A Catalogue of such dishes and drinks
Boarsears a squair of Crocuses a squair of July Flowers a squair of Anemonies and a squair of Couslips and so a squair of Tulips another of Boars Ears c Through that Bordure Intermixing the Colours of each sort then may you make the next Bordure so Intermixt but differing minding that as you Intermix the Bulbous and Fibrous in each Bordure so must they be also in the crossing that the squair of Fibrous in this may oppose the squair of Bulbous in the next and likewayes whatever Bordure such sorts at in on the one side of the walke set the very same in the Bordure equidistant from the walke on the other side that the whole may be Regular and uniformely Intermixt all the year looking from all sides ends or Angles Thridly in nurseries of Beds and Ridges Plant every kind in thickets by themselves and Annualls and perennialls by themselves except only that you Intermix their Coloures that is make a whole Bed or Ridg of each kind 6 Rowes in the Bed the Dwarfish may be 8 Rowes thus every thicket of them Flowering in their own order will have a great shew and at a great distance and here also observe uniformity that is alike on each hand see the last Chap sect 3. For if you have a Ridg or Bed of July-flowers or the like on the one side Plant another thereof at the same place on the other c. And because Flowers must be removed some in one two or three years and the Earth renued or enriched and properly prepared else they degenerate because in long time they exhaust the substance of the ground at least that part appropriate to them therefore you have a good conveniency for effectuating the same by these last two models perscribed for often you will have some Beds or squairs where your Annualls stood to replant your Tulips Anemonies or the like unto and so another sort where these stood and your Annualls again where this last was and because here you remove a whole Bed or squair of a kind at once you may very conveniently prepare Delve Stir Beat sift and mix it throughly with the soyl proper a thing most necessary and this you could not well do where they ar scattred as in the first way See the Rules mentioned Part 2. Chap. 1. Sect. 10. and Chap. 7. As to Terrase walkes if the Brow on which you make them be not too steep the work shall be the more Facile if you build them up with walls be careful to found deep enough according to the level and if the midle of the terrase be on the Central line of the house or of any walke make the Stayr of the upmost and downmost there to part at a plat on the head going down at both sides so much of the stayr case may be within as that the outter edg thereof may be in a line with the Bordure at the wall by this it marrs not the walke the rest may be at the ends Plant the Bordure at the upperside of the walke with wall Trees the under side being but ell high with Laurels c. But if your Terrase consists only of walkes and sloping Banks you may have the Bordure at the head and foot of each Bank on either side the walkes Planted with standard cherries c. and the Banks of Violets Straw-Berries or Grass 9. As for Pondes make them large and broad such being best both for the health of Fish and Fowll Clean and most preferrable water for watering Plants squair Triangle Circle Ovall or what figure sits your ground best let them be 5 or 6 foot of solid water at least with Sluces to let it Run in and out at pleasure I am against Arbust and close walkes except Trees their natural closing where we have both shade and Air. CHAP 7. How to Level Ground I Have often wished that there might be some Rules found whereby this expensive worke might become more easy There be two sorts of levelling viz the Horizontal and Sloping The first is best known but the last more profitable and convenient Example I have made a plot slop 4 foot in 200 long and 18 Inches in 380 foot the other way this was not perspicuous to vulgar eyes yet to have made it Horizontal would have been Ridiculous as to time paines and expences And in levelling the walkes about a plot which sloped naturally to make them correspond with the grownd rownd I behoved to make the midle walk agree with the side ones whereupon it slops 10 foot in 370 long now if I had made this Horizontal it would have been 5 foot or 10 steps lower than the one side walke and as much higher than the other and so worse and more Inconvenient than before both as it is a walke and anent Correspondancy with the rest of the ground within therefore I am for levelling any ground sloping that it may turn a little to the Sun if possible for drawing water that it may correspond with its adjuncts and above all to prevent the more costly way for It s certainly a principal observation in levelling not only to cause the ground of it self serve it self but also to level it as it lyes most conveniently which is the cheap and easie way of levelling When you have a Row of stakes set in a straight line and about 20 foot distance as in the edge of a Bordure or midle of a walke the way of levelling them either Horizontal or sloping is to mark and put a nail in the two Stakes which ar at the extreams or ends thereof and view betwixt cause marke all the Rest which ar betwixt in a level line therewith This is the easiest the exactest and quickest way and in the same methode you may go round any plot and consequently cross every way the same accordingly In that which you would have Horizontal place the long Rule and the level at one end suppose the sole of the Door till the plumb fall right in recovering and view alongst the said Rule as on a fowlling piece that you may see what part of each Stake it hits and cause one with a piece white paper or white hefted knife hold the same at each stake its heft tending out as the nails which carry up the line and direct him by words or signes to hold up or down till it be Just level when they ar all marked measure down so much on each Stake as was raised up for conveniency in viewing there marke put in nailes a little streatch on the line and level up the earth or gravel thereunto And where you would have determin'd slops set on the level and marke the far-end stake in a level line therewith then measure down upon the said Stake or pole from the marked place so much as you designe the slop and put in a naile with white paper about it and at the upperside of the Rule in the stake at the door put in another nail and by viewing
near the length of the long straight Rules distance at which hold on the Rule and let one view alongst the same till the marke at the West-end be level therewith and the other towards the East till the marke there be also level with the same so both may alter up or down till they have their desires at once then six the Rule and having as many stakes set as is needfull you may view backsight and foresight hereon and level them all exactly 5. But if a Wall a House c. Intercept measure perpendicular and exactly up to the top thereof and on the other side measure down the same again and so set foreward the level but so as it may communicate with the rest when obstructions are removed But if a Hill go to the Top set the Rule level and laying ane eye thereto cause one with a long pole go down till its Top be level therewith he holding it level by a Plumb Rule then descent your stations and set the upper-end of the Rule where the pole stood there level it and do as before thus from station to station to the foot of the Hill if it be so great keeping compt in a Note-book what poles and parts the which may be as easily taken down the other side by the same method But if it be possible to see over the obstruction on 3 footed standing leathers by help of long poles or Pikes as I have done in the like case raise your level thereon and having viewed and marked that on the other side measure down the same there c. 6. I might here speak of the solidity of earth whereby you may move readily compt the expence of levelling but having shew'd in the next Chap. Sect. 5. How to measure solids I presume its applicable to earth as well as Timber Stone c. For if you know the breadth length and deepth thereof you may find how many solid Ells c. And if you know how many Ells and parts will load a cart and how many carts a day you may go near to calculat the cost of the whole 7. In levelling any ground for Kitchen ground Orchards or Nurseries take not away its good earth or surface as you bring down the hights but alwayes turn over the upper-part thereof behind you carrying away that which is below so much deeper that it may contain that surface and put the bad earth in bottom of hollowes with better mould above it In the practise of levelling or other workes contrive the working so as there may be still a motion amongst all the partes and albeit carts are cheaper for levelling than Wheell-barrowes if the way of carriage be not very short yet if you do not set as many men to fill the carts as may have the one full against the other come in and no more you lose considerably and this will be according to the distance of carriage or as the earth is capable of being wrought and so with Wheell-barrowes for two Wheellers three barrowes and one filler sometimes doth well sometimes more fillers or fewer Wheellers yet still let them have a led barrow And if this could be done with carts also it would be of great Advantage wherefore in my opinion there is no way so probable to worke this effect as the carts with three Wheells where by 2. men with 2. of them carts and one Horse can do as much as three Men two Horses and 2 Carts for one man to fill the led Cart the other Man to drive the one Horse and when he comes in he has nothing to do but take the Trases and Hooks off the empty Cart and put upon the rings of the full one and so drive on This Cart has no Trams or Limbers but a Swingle-Tree or Bread-board before where the rings that keeps the Trasses are it has a handsome folding body the thrid Wheell is about 30 Inches Diameter all Iron and Runs in a Shiers of the same fastned perpendicular under the midle of the forebreast with a turning Pin of Iron the other two Wheells are common but if they have an Iron Axis the better 8. To bring in Water in Pipes to your Houses Courts Gardens Pondes Parks c. Consider on the level for as the place where you convey it unto must allwayes be lower than the Fountain from whence it comes else thither it cannot flow so must you take notice that no Hill in the way of its conveyance be so high as the Fountain it self You may find the level by placing your Instrument at the Well or Fountain as I directed in walkes and if a Hill intercept that sight plant on the Top thereof that by back-sight and foresight you may find the difference that hence you may know whither you can carry it about the obstruction but if the distance be farr you need to be the more exact As for Instrument the Cross discribed Chap. 3. whose sights may be two Prospect Glasses may do well whither for one or many stations Let one stand at the Spring-head another betwixt and the place whereunto you desire to carry the Water a large distance sundry but so as a thrid man about the midle may see both their Marke-boards that is on their Pikstaves and direct them to hold level by his back and foresight desiring them to keep accompt what foot and parts and so come foreward till the assistant at the well plant where the foremost stood and thus proceed all in a straight line and do as before from station to station so long as needfull at length add all the measures of back-stations together and all of the fore-stations substract the one from the other and the remainders gives the difference of levels betwixt the Fountain and the appointed place Allow to the fall of the Water for every 1000 foot in length 12 Inches slop at least CHAP. VIII How to measure divide and lay out Land c. SOme following other-Countrey-books Ignorantly measures our ground with their measures therefore I am here to Informe such that In measuring all figures whither superficial or solide it is requisit to know first wherewith they should be measured secondly how they should be measured Land is done by ell or fall measure also Masons Roughwork-buildings Stone Board and Glass by foot measure 12 Inches a foot and no distinction betwixt a Scots and English foot the Glaziers used only 8 Inches but the Act of Parliament hath reduced them to 12 as others Some would think 12 Inches but a thrid part more whereas it is equivalent to 2¼ of theirs for 8 times 8 is 64 and 12 times 12 is 144 out of which I get 2 times 64 and the 16 remaining is ¼ thereof This minds me of that question viz. Whither is a squair half foot or half a foot squair most I have heard severalls say they were both alike but this was their mistake For a half foot squair superficial is but the half of a
raising early and tender plants dig a pit 4 foot deep and of length and breadth as you have occasion in a convenient and warme place lying well to the Sun and sheltered from winds which you may help by art if not so naturally fill it with dung and leitter from the Stables about a sourthnights gathering some makes it of Barley-straw or the same mixt with bran because it keeps heat long and its heat not so excessive nor so noisome to plants as dung and when well Tread and even on the Top lay about 4 Inches thick of rich light but fresh and clean sifted mould thereon arch it over with sticks and cover with matts 4 or 5 dayes to cause it heat then uncover and give it Air a day or two that its violent heat may pass then sow your seeds and cover the bed again And the next day if you find the bed over hot give it more Air if too cold cast some Straw on the covering untill the heat returne so by airing and covering you may keep it in a constant temper when the Seeds come up give them Air to dry the moisture raised by the heat of the bed How to cover the choice with Glasses see Chap. 6. Sect 1. But as there is great trouble in rightly ordering this sort of hot-bed so here remedied by a better which is only to fill and tread the pit full of new dung and leitter not covering it with Earth and place wooden cases therein about 9 or 10 Inches deep and about 3 foot broad having wood-handles at the ends boar them full of Auger or Wimble holes at the bottome fill them with the foresaid earth and therein sow your seeds and these cases and the earth in them will be kept warme during the whole season wherein a hot-bed is necessary for if it lose heat add fresh dung and leitter under about and betwixt the cases there is Dew on the Glasses while the heat remains but if exhausted they will be dry consequently the trouble of transplanting from one hot bed to another is hereby saved Provide a shelter over the whole if you please and frames of Glass over some of the inside cases where there is most need others you may leave open as your Seeds requires By this your pit and cases are every year ready to your hand requiring only a supply of fresh dung But this pit will be so much the more excellent if lyn'd round at the sides with brick and where you cannot conveniently sink it for Water you may build the same above ground And when this pit is empty it will be also ready for wintering of Flower Pots with July-flowers c. 8. In watering plants use not well-water especially for tender plants neither Rivers that run long and quick on sharp gravel these yields no nourishment to plants but rather chills them therefore if you must use such let them stand sometime in the Sun and open Air uncovered in tubs mixt with dung and powr it off the dreg when you use it let the quantity and quality of the dung be according to the nature of your plants as if great growers and require much heat put horse or pigeons dung into the water but for the more durable put Sheeps dung remembering if your ground be bad to add the more dung When dung lyes above ground about any plants as I use to do with Trees Artichocks c. The water descending through the same is very relishing to the Roots if you powr the water at a little distance round the Tree for when lashed on the stem it washeth the Earth from the Roots Water no plants with standing stinking Ditch-water nor no Water that stinketh Rain-water and large Ponde-water is excellent but keep it not too long yet if in a large Vessel the oftener you Stir it the longer it will keep sweet so the larger your pondes or Rivers be and the opener to the Sun and Air and the more moving by horse geese and ducks their Sweeming the sweeter it will be and if the washings of stables streets dung Hill-water c. Run into them that adds much to their fertility providing they have some moving as is said to make them sweet If you fear dry weather differre not too long but water while your ground is yet moist differre not if you mind to water at all these that Root deepest water most and also when you do begin Continue it so long as you find occasion In watering Trees and greater Plants stir and waken the Earth a little about their Roots with a fork so as it may drink the more evenlier minding to tread firme again And for the same cause you may sink the Earth a little in forme of a shallow dish rownd your Coleflowers Artichocks c. Dip your Flower Pots in a Tub of water to drink through the holes at the bottome When you water beds of small seeds with the watering pot shake it nimbly that it may fall like a showre of smal Rain I have often made use of a handful of small Straw or Hay drawen as thatch tyed in the midle and at one end powred water with a Cup and shaked the same that it appeared like a Gentle bedewing rather than a glutting Rain Some that are desirous to have the ground allwayes moist about any plant do place near it a vessel with water and in it a piece woollen clothe with one end thereof hanging out to the ground and the other in the water the Cloath being first wet it will drop continually if the end without be lower than that within the vessell and when the water within fails it may be augmented If it drop not fast enough the clothe may be increased if too fast diminished Early in the Spring while the weather is yet cold I intreat you be cautious in watering the leaves of the young and tender plants only wet the ground about them when your plants or seeds are more hardy and the nights yet cold water in the forenoons but when the nights are warme or dayes very hot then the evening is the best time Plant in wet and sow in dry I do not mean over we●t or over dry Withall let them have good Air which conduceth much to their health and life without which nothing can live CHAP. III. How to propagate and order Forrest-trees 1. OMmiting here the distinction of species having confin'd to one chapter I shall speak briefly yet I hope plainly of their Governement thus Albeit the most of Forrest-trees may be Increased by Suckers Layers c. Yet if you desire Trees worth your while Raise them from the seed Therefore prepare a seminary or seed-plot together with a nurserie well ordered and handsomely made up in beds as in part 1. Chap. 5. sect 2. and there sow and set your seeds and plants in their respective seasons keep them clean from weeds and water them when need is also Earth up and dible in these cast up by the
preserve them from colds while young If you water Imbibe pigeons dung but touch not their leaves therewith when their leaves ar 3 Inches broad Transplant them into a very fat and well mixt soil 2 foot distance prun their Roots and tops and if any worm knots cut them a way and in setting keep their hearts Immedially above ground And all along keep them clean of weeds under hanging and withered leaves let them not suffer drought while young make the water like wort by dung if the ground and seed be good you may expect good heads which if you spend not alltogether before frosts which spoils them take them up in a dry day and ty them in pairs to hang in a dry Room for use the best seed comes from Candia There be many Cabbages sow the Savoy and such tender sorts as cole-flowers albeit not so tender sow the great white and Red the full moon in July Plant them furth in Octob 3 foot distance in well dunged ground set some also in March but then the gardner finds multiplicity of business therefore it s his wisdom to put as much work by hand as can suffer it at least to have all his grounds fallowed before winter you may rake up and hang your Cabbages in Novem as cole-flowers but plant some of the best and hardest for seed up to the neck when they shoot support with stakes and Ropes when full cut and lay on a clothe to perfect But choice the midle rejecting the lower branches Catch snails and worms that graws the young sprouting plants and set nets for birds at the same time the reason why old Cole is full of green worms is dry poor ground never weeded or otherwayes unqualified dungs and unseasonably applyed If they would trench mix c. As in Chap 2. that their ground may be clean and sweet they shall ripen accordingly Common Colworts ar usually sowen at spring planted in summer and eaten through winter and at spring when other green herbes ar scarce you may also sow and set them with Cabbages and ripe their seeds accordingly 3. Of sweet herbes as Clary by seeds and offsets in Aprile at which time you may slip and set Tansie Sage Cost Mint Balme Winter Savory Thyme Penniroyall Wild Marjorum Maudlin Fennell c. Prune their tops and fibres and plant in a garden soil 8 rowes in the bed they all continue long but cutting their tops in growing time makes them more durable and cut them all within a handful of the ground at August that they may recover against winter You may likewayes sow the seed of Fennell Thyme Winter as well as Summer Savory Dill Sweet Basill c. In Aprile a warme cultured soil ordering them as above the three last ar annualls If you would have sweet Marjorum early raise it on the hot bed the sweet Basill requires the same sow it also the latter end of Aprile in a warme fat soil 8 rowes in the bed you may sow it in July and Transplant when two Inches high in a warme bordure at a south wall its seed with Basill comes from hotter Countries Sow Rosmary seed in Aprile or at the same time take its slips or cuttings and twist them a little at the ends and dible in good soil on a south wall-bordure but cut not their tops they easily root being watered in drought with soap water you may ply it to the wall as Shrubs 4. I am now come to Roots they require a light Earth deep trenched fat sand mixt with Sheeps dang its convenient that it be dunged a year before because new dung maks them forke Plant Liquorish offsets and Runners in February in this soil well stirred and mixt after which do not tread save in the furrows six rowes in the bed and cover all the Intervalls with leitter topt with sand but let the plants be free for this is to keep out drought the first summer keep them allwayes clean of weeds and cut their stalks near winter let it stand 3 summers in the ground and in Novem take it up thus begin at one side of the plot and make a trench the whole deepth of their Roots taking it out carefully not breaking it at the face of the same casting the Earth still behind as you proceed then cut off the plants to divide carefully and lay them amongst moist sand in a cellar till setting time And because it stands three seasons you may have three several plantations so shall you have it to take up yearly if you plant accordingly Scorzonera by seeds and by offsets that is by parting the tops of the Root sow in the Spring or when its seed ripes promiscuouly in the beds it continues many years in the ground and growes still the greater and is in season at all times for eating tho it yearly run to seed Order Carvy aa scorzonera its Roots is eaten as parsneeps Skirrets by seeds but chiefly by offsets plant the small sets not many in a bundle in March 8 rowes in the bed when their stalks begin to wither fall a spending them and as you break off their Roots for use lay rheir tops or sets in ground covered a little till the Spring for planting I cautioned you before to change the crops these you spend not e're the frosts come hard house among very dry sand that you may have them when you will rather as be barred from them by the frosts Parsneeps by seed only sow in March promiscuously over the bed but thin spend and house them with skirrets and cut quit off their tops lest they grow amongst the sand reserve some of the best untaken up for seed which will ripe the next season choice the midle stem seed Beat-Rave may be ordered in all cases as parsneeps save that you may begin sooner to eat them viz as soon as they are bigg enough tho they last as long besides these you pickle Carrots as beat Raves Turneeps by seeds in Aprile May June July the first proves not best promiscuously over the bed very thin and scarcely any covering of Earth When they rise thin them late turneeps may be housed as parsneeps and seeds reapt accordingly Horse Radish by offsets and lasts long too The Garden Radish by seed only you may raise for early in the hotbed cases hence every 20 dayes with other sallading through summer because they quickly shoot for seed sow black Radish in August and Septemb for winter these seeds next season Potatoes being cut in as many pieces as you please providing there be an eye at each piece and planted in March 5 rowes in the bed plant not deep neither in wer or stiff ground spend them with parsneeps and in housing spread only through a board-floor Parsly is also a Root for the Kitchen and so is fennell I spoke of them before only you may house some for winter See part 1. Chap 5. for the orderly planting of Kitchen herbes 5. Weeding I think may be accompted the most material