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A30869 The French perfumer teaching the several ways of extracting the odours of drugs and flowers and making all the compositions of perfumes for powder, wash-balls, essences, oyls, wax, pomatum, paste, Queen of Hungary's Rosa Solis, and other sweet waters ... : also how to colour and scent gloves and fans, together with the secret of cleansing tobacco and perfuming it for all sorts of snuff, Spanish, Roman, &c. / done into English from the original printed at Paris.; Parfumeur françois qui enseigne toutes les manieres de tirer les odeures des flours. English Barbe, Simon. 1696 (1696) Wing B689A; Wing F2192_CANCELLED; ESTC R20672 43,178 142

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doing till the whole be wasted then you must do this Put in the Mortar half a gros of Civet and a bit of Sugar as big as a Walnut beat your Civet with the Sugar very small put to it by degrees some Powder stirring it with the Pestle then turn it in a Sieve sift it gently then put into the Mortar again the lumps made by the Civet beat them once more throwing over some Powder as before and you must continue to do so till the whole be very fine then mix it all together and your Powder will be excellent That Powder is of pleasant Smell and of Ashes colour very good for all sorts of Colours of Hair Another sort MIX Powder of Moss or Cyprus with Starch-Powder in the same quantity and put Flowers as you do to Orange and Jasmin-flowers Powder and when you think fit Perfume them with Amber and Civet as 't is said before and it will be very good Another sort HAving observed one of the two last Receipts for the Powder of Frangipane if you have a mind to have it Musked instead of half a gross of Civet to the same quantity of Powder put only eighteen Grains and half a Gros of Musk beat it small with a little Sugar after the same manner you use it with the Civet and the Smell will be extraordinary Sweet How to perfume the Powder of Cyprus or Moss of Oak as they do at Montpellier TAKE two Pounds of Powder of Moss of Oak cleansed with Flowers as 't is said in its place infuse in it eighteen Grains of Civet with a little Sugar as I said before then put with it half a gros of Musk after the same manner this being done put it in a Box very close it will be of an extraordinary fine Smell a little will serve to Powder the Hair and give it a sweet Smell Fine Powder called a la Marechale fit and very good to make Paste for the Beads of Necklaces TAKE two Pounds of Moss of Oak a Pound of Starch-Powder an Ounce of Cloaves beaten an Ounce of Calamus in Powder two Ounces of Souchet two Ounces of rotten Wood mix the whole well together and your Powder will be done The rotten Wood must be of Oak because being red it gives a fine colour to the Powder Of Wash-balls How to cleanse Soap TAKE a Cut of Soap scrape it well cut it in thin Slices and put them in a great Kettle over the Fire with four or five Pints of Water stir it with a Stick till the Soap be quite melted pour it afterwards in some Vessels and let it lye several days till it be hard then cut it as thin as you can and let it dry till it be as hard as Wood put it after that in some Vessels or Basons and pour over it Brandy enough to allay it you must throw some Salt in it and turn it that the whole be well soaked then let it dry again in the Air being very dry when you have occasion for your Wash-balls you must soften as much as you want You will find a Receipt how to soften it in this Treatise Common Wash-balls TAKE five Pounds of Soap scrape it put it in a Mortar and beat it a long while then handle and work well your Soap that you may take out the little bits that have not been beaten put your Soap into the Mortar again mix in it two Pound of Starch-powder an Ounce of Essence of Citron or of Orange and about half a Pint of macanet-Macanet-water prepared as I 'll tell you by and by stir the whole gently with the Postle and beat it long enough to mix it well and it is done you need no more but to role your Paste as you will to make your Wash-balls Let them dry if your Paste is too soft it will harden of it self macanet-Macanet-water is made thus Beat four Ounces of Macanet in a Mortar soak them in a Pint of Water no longer than from one day to another strain the Water through a Linnen Cloth and squeeze the Macanet very well you must after that allay with the same Water two Ounces of Cerus beaten in Powder add to it a handful of Salt and you may use it as I said before Another sort AFter you have beaten five Pounds of Soap as before and taken out the Lumps you must put your Soap into the Mortar again and throw into it two Pounds of Starch-powder half a Pint of Macanet-water prepared as I said before a Spoonful of Oyl of Aspick half an Ounce of Orange or Citron two Spoonfuls of liquid Storax prepared as hereafter stir it all gently with the Pestle beat it very well till the whole be well mixed together and it is done You must prepare the liquid Storax thus Put an Ounce of Storax in an Earthen Pan with half a Glass of Water stir the Storax with a Spoon while it is melting and being melted use it as I said Another sort MELT five Pounds of Soap cut it in slices very thin pour in a Pint of Citron-water being well melted strain it through a Linnen Cloth not very fine put to it two Pounds of Starch-powder an Ounce of Essence of Orange or Citron two Ounces of Cerus allay'd with a Glass of Water you must work your Paste well with your Hands till the whole be well mixed and when your Paste is very stiff role your Wash-balls of what bigness you please and dry them To Compose the citron-Citron-water you must cut in bits half a dozen of Lemons old or new 't is no matter let them boyl in a Pint of Water half an hour then squeeze them through a Linnen Cloth and you may use that Water Wash-balls of Neroly TAKE eight Pounds of dry Soap and cleansed as we said before and put it in a Bason pour in it Orange-flowers or Rose-water as much as will cover the Soap to allay it well You must take care to stir twice a day the Soap till it has soaked the Water and be soft again keep it so till it is fit to be beaten beat it then a long while and work it well to take out the Clods which are left Put your Soap into the Mortar again put to it a Pound of Labdanum in Powder very fine and two Ounces of Neroly mix and stir them together gently with the Pestle then beat the whole a long time to mix it well and 't is done If your Paste is too hard pour a little Orange-flower-water the Paste will be good and being made stiff role your Wash balls and dry them Wash-balls of Bolognia YOU must take three Bundles of common Wash-balls of Bolognia beat them in a Mortar to Crums then put them in a Bason pour in the Bason Angel-water enough to cover the Paste let it soak till it is soft and that will be in two or three days in the mean time stir it and turn it twice a day and when all the Water is gone and the Paste is hard
and stiff beat it a long while then work it well to take out the Clods afterwards divide your Paste into two even Cakes then do this Take half a Pint of Angel-water and the same quantity of Rose-water put in the little Mortar two gross of Musk with a little of the Angel-water to dissolve it beat it pouring in always of that Water then strain it through a Linnen Cloth not too fine nor too course scrape after that with a Spoon the Musk left in the Linnen and beat it again pouring a little of the said Water and continue so doing till the Musk be infused and melted with Angel and Rose-waters wash the Linnen with the same Water to cleanse and take away all the Musk The whole being well mixt put all the Water in a Glass bottle to use it as you 'll see hereafter Take one of the said two Cakes of Paste which you must beat to bits in a Mortar throw upon it a good handful of Labdanum-powder very fine half an Ounce of Balm of Peru a few drops of Essence of Neroly about half a Pint of the said Water stir and mix all gently with the Pestle then beat it all together a long while to mix well the Paste and 't is done And as you have done to the first Cake do the same to the other and cover them together very close that they may have time to take the Scent of the Sweets then your Paste being stiff role it as you please to make your Wash-balls and dry them Bolognia Wash-balls the best TAKE three Bundles or little Boxes of Bolognia Wash-balls beat them and dip them in angel-Angel-water enough to cover your Paste as we said before Besides angel-Angel-water add to it half a Pint of Benjamin-water beat that Paste and turn it upside down twice a day that the whole be well mixt the Water being gone and the Paste stiff beat it afterwards and work it well to take out the Clods and the whole being reduced into a Paste make two Cakes alike of it then do this Beat half an Ounce of Musk in a little Mortar pouring in it angel-Angel-water as before in the Receipt of other Wash-balls at last infuse your Musk beating and straining it through a Linnen Cloth with half a Pint of Angel and Rose-water then use it thus Take one of the two Cakes beat them to bits in the Mortar and pour over the Cake two Ounces of Balm of Peru some drops of Essence of Neroly a good handful of composed Powder viz. a third of fine Powder a la Marechale a third of Powder of Campane-root a third of Labdanum-powder and half a Pint of the abovesaid Water prepared with the Musk mix the whole together very well beat it a long while and your Paste is made the Smell of it will be very pleasant Role your Wash-balls when your Paste is stiff what you have done to one of the Cakes you may do to the other Wash-balls well perfumed TAKE three Bundles of Bolognia ordinary Wash-balls beat them in a Mortar allay them with Angel and Benjamin-water as we said before being beaten again and made in Paste divide them in two Cakes alike and prepare it thus Beat very small half a gross of Civet in a little Mortar with two Ounces of Balm of Peru which you must drop in by degrees Add to it two gross of Essence of Amber some Essence of Cloves and as much of Cinnamon mingle the whole very well together and keep it to use it thus Put in the Mortar one of the two Cakes broken in bits throw over two handfuls of prepared Powder viz. a third of Labdanum-powder a third of fine Powder a la Marechale a third of Powder of Campane root put also to it half of that Composition and half a Pint of Millifleur Water half an Ounce of Essence of Neroly mix the whole well together and when you have beaten it long enough to mingle it all very well your Paste is made You may use the same Receipt for the other Cake left Another Receipt to perfume Wash-balls TAKE three Bundles of the same Bolognia Wash-balls beat them in a Mortar dip them and make a Paste as I said before the Paste being divided into two even Cakes break one in bits put it in a Mortar with a handful of Labdanum-power a handful of the dregs of the angel-Angel-water beaten in Powder an Ounce of Balm of Peru half an Ounce of Essence of Neroly and half a Pint of Millifleur Water mix the whole gently with the Pestle then after you have beat it a long while 't is done You may do the same to the other Cake of Paste If you cannot have Bolognia Wash-balls make use of Soap cleansed as is prescribed in the beginning of this Treatise it is very good for all sorts of Wash-balls Take of it three or four Pounds or more instead of every Bundle of Bolognia Balls and for want of Powders mentioned before in the Preparation of Wash-balls you may make use of the Dregs of angel-Angel-water beaten and sifted very fine through a Sieve the Balls will be as good observe that all the Powders must be very fine Excellent benjamin-Benjamin-water PUT in a thick Glass-bottle a Pint of Spirit of Wine and a Pint of Brandy half a Pound of Benjamin a quarter of a Pound of Storax half an Ounce of Cloves an Ounce of Cinnamon and four Nutmegs all well beaten being in the Bottle stop it well and let it stand upon Sand in the Sun in the heat of the Summer for a Month and 't is done Take it away when it Rains and let the Bottle be very large leaving an empty space of four Inches at least or else the Spirit of Wine being hot will certainly break the Bottle If you think your benjamin-Benjamin-water is not red enough at the time limited that it should be enough beat in a little Mortar some Orkanet of the bigness of a Bean dissolve it with some of your Benjamin-water pour it in the Bottle and let it stand in the Sun two or three days and 't is done A Receipt to prepare Spunges for the Face CHoose the best and finest Spunges cut what is superfluous about them then dip them in Water a little while wash them after that and cut them well changing Water till the last Water be very clean then dry them being dry dip them in Angel-water or in Orange-flower-water pour over them half a Spoonful of Essence of Amber your Spunges having lain in Water a whole day take them out do not squeeze them much and dry them they are done A Treatise of Essences and Oyls perfumed with Flowers How to make Essences of Flowers IT is easie to draw Essences out of all manner of Flowers though they are of different sorts for if you can make of one you may make of all others Here is a general Receipt for all the Flowers which have any Smell Take a Deal Box of what bigness you please Tin it within
beaten in fine Powder mix them very well pour over it half a Spoonful of Essence of Cinnamon as much of Cloves Powder Mingle them all together very well and 't is done Another Sort. TAKE half a Pound of Brick Sand four Ounces of China Powder half an Ounce of Cinnamon well beaten and mixt well together 't is done Another Sort. TAKE half a Pound of Brick Sand four Ounces of China Powder an Ounce of Coral beaten very fine a gros of beaten Cloves two gros of calcined Alom half an ounce of crust of Bread burnt and an Ounce of Conserve of Roses in Powder let it all be beaten very fine and 't is done Receipt to make Liquid Opiate PUT what quantity you please of Syrup of red Cherries in a fine Earthen Pot pour into the Syrup Opiate in Powder of what kind you will mix it well with a Spatula if it is too Liquid throw a little more Powder if too thick pour more Syrup mingle it well 't is done When you use it pour some in a China Dish and add to it if you please half a Spoonful of Essence of Amber or Cloves or Cinnamon it will smell and tast extraordinary well A Treatise of Perfumes good for the Mouth Essence of Amber POur in a strong glass Bottle a Pint of the best Spirit of Wine beat in a little Mortar the eighth part of an Ounce or one Gros of black Amber or Ambergreice and throw it in the Wine you must also mix half a Gros of the bladder of Musk very small then stop the Bottle close and expose it upon Sand to the hottest Sun in the Summer for a Fortnight shake the Bottle two or three times in a day when the Sun shines upon it that the Amber shou'd not stick at the bottom but should melt and give its smell to the Spirit of Wine take away the Bottle when it rains and the Sand for the Sand being heaten by the Sun is a great help to Concoct and bring to Perfection all the Preparations exposed to the heat of the Sun Observe also That you must not fill the Bottle to the top least the strength of the Spirit of Wine break it after a Month take it away and 't is done The best time to make that Essence is in the Dog-days if you have a mind to make less or more of it put more or less of the Ingredients or things mentioned before Essence of Hypocras PUT half a Pint of Spirit of Wine in a strong Glass Bottle add to it half an Ounce of Cloves an Ounce of Cinnamon a Gros of Ginger and as much as you can hold with your Fingers end of Coriander all well beaten three or four Grains of black Amber or Ambergreice beaten in a Marble Mortar Stop the Bottle well and expose it to the Sun upon Sand a whole Month take it away when it Rains and don 't fill the Bottle full as I said before At the Months end it is done Cachoo Perfum'd with Amber very good for the Mouth BEat four Ounces of Cachoo and ten Grains of Musk together in a Mortar and sift them very fine in a Hair Sieve beating again what remains and sifting it again and again then warm the bottom of the Mortar and the end of the Pestle dissolve eighteen Grains of Ambergriece in the Mortar pour over it half a Spoonful of Ambergriece and the bigness of a Walnut of Gum of Adragant dip it in Orange-flower-water allaying the whole together put in by degrees your Cachoo Powder mingle it and stir it a long while and beat it well to mix your Amber all over The Paste being made you must shape the Cachoo thus Take a bit of it as big as a Nut in your Hands roll it to a point take a Crum at a time twist it with your Two Fingers and you 'll shape it like a Mouses turd wet it a little with Essence of Orange-flowers that it should not stick to your Fingers Pastils Perfumed good to eat TAKE a Pound of double refined Sugar beat it in a little Mortar with twelve Grains of Musk searce it through a hair Sieve very fine dip in Orange-flower-water a handful of Gum of Adragant from Night till the next Morning strain it hard through a Linnen Cloth not too Fine nor too Coarse then mix your Gum with your Sugar pouring over it two Gros of Essence of Amber work it altogether very well to make a Paste make it flat with a rolling Pin and cut your Pastils of what shape you will While you cut them dry them upon a white Paper in the Air in the Summer cover them with another Paper least the Flies should spoil them don 't lay them up till they are very dry The Moulds to cut Pastils are made of fine Tin in the shape of a Thimble press with one end of the Mould the Past and turn the Mould the Pastil remains in them blow on the other side and it comes out Excellent Hypocras perfum'd TAKE half a Pound of Sugar beat it fine and put it in a Bason pour over the Sugar a Pint of Wine the oldest and the deepest in colour is the best stir gently your Sugar with a Spoon to melt it then strain your Wine through a Straining bag five or six times being well clarified pour in it half a Spoonful of Essence of Hypocras and stir it with a Spoon taste if it is strong enough if not pour more Essence and 't is done Pour your Wine quickly in a Bottle stop it presently that it should not lose its Spirits that way is ready and better than by Infusion Rosa Solis or perfum'd Liquor PUT in a Copper Pan over the Fire two Pints of Water and two Pounds of Sugar let them boyl to the fourth part then pour in two Spoonfuls of orange-flower-Orange-flower-water having boyled a Minute throw in the White and the Shell of an Egg well beaten with a Whisk stir your Egg in your Liquor with the Whisk and when it boyls take it off the Fire strain it through the Bag several times being well clarified pour in it the best Brandy according to the strength you will have your Rosa Solis Then pour in Essence of Amber to your taste more or less or Essence of Hypocras and 't is done Another Liquor perfum'd MELT a Pound of Sugar in a Pint of old Wine as you have done to Hypocras strain it through the Bag several times then pour in good Brandy as much as you think fit according to the strength of your Liquor pour also Essence of Amber to your taste 't is done A Treatise of perfum'd sweet-Sweet-waters Angel water boyled PUT in an Earthen Pot five Pints of Water a Pound of Benjamin half a Pound of Storax an Ounce of Cinnamen half an Ounce of Cloves all well beaten two Lemons cut in quarters two or three bits of Calamus Set the Pot on the Fire cover it and make it boyl to the fourth part then pour the Water in
a Bason and cool it before you pour it in Bottles If you want more of that Water fill your Pot as before and boyl it the same that second Water will be almost as good as the first you may mix them together if you will This done take out the Dregs left in the bottom of the Pot before they be cold dry them and make Pastils as before in the Receipt of Pastils or else you may use them in several Preparations as I said in the Treatise of Wash-balls Another sort PUT in the Pot two Pints of Orange-flowers and as much of Rose-water then put the same Drugs and in the same quantity as in the former Receipt all but Lemons add only a Bladder of Musk Let it boyl after the same manner and having taken your Water out of the Pot take also the Dregs and dry them they are very good to make Pastils to burn Millefleur or several sorts of flower-Flower-water POUR in a Glass-bottle a Pint of good Angel-water then beat twelve Grains of Musk in a little Mortar allay them with that Water and pour it all in a Bottle well stopt Keep it for your use Instead of Musk you may put a Gros of the Bladder of Musk cut small and it is very good Angel-water distill'd in Mare Balneo TAKE a Glass Alembick of three pieces the top or the head the Bombe and the long narrow-necked and round-belly'd Bottle You must have also a Furnace to burn Charcoals and a Kettle or other Vessel alike deep enough to keep the Water and set the Alembick Paste some double Paper round about the Bombe just at the place where the head lyes put the Bottle or Matras at the end of the Pipe to receive the distilling You must put in the Bombe a Pint of Water four Ounces of Benjamin two Ounces of Storax half an Ounce of Cinnamon two Gros of Cloves all well beaten a bit of Calamus and a Gros or the eighth part of an Ounce of the Bladder of Musk the Water distilled out of all these will be of an extraordinary Sweet Smell and very clear Put the Dregs left in the bottom to dry and make Pastils of them to burn carnation-Carnation-water PUT in a Glass Alembick as before a Pint of Water and two Ounces of beaten Cloves the Water distilled will have a pleasant Smell because the strength of the Cloves being sweetned by the Water smell rather of the Carnation than the Cloves cinnamon-Cinnamon-water YOU must put in a Glass Alembick as before a Pint of Water and two Ounces of Cinnamon well beaten and the distilled Water will have the natural Smell of Cinnamon thyme-Thyme-water PUT a Pint of Water in the same Glass Alembick and two handfuls of Thyme the distill'd Water will smell naturally of the Thyme All Aromatick Herbs may be distill'd after the same manner those Herbs being very strong keep their Smell as well dry as green so it is easie to distil from them Waters in reading the aforesaid Receipts orange-flower-Orange-flower-water distilled in a cold Still INfuse two Pounds of Orange-flowers dry in two Pints of Water three or four hours then pour it in the Still and distil it as in the former Receipt the Water distill'd out of it is good for a great many things as for Wash-balls to make angel-Angel-water to cleanse Snuff and serves to perfume all sorts of Skins and Gloves rose-Rose-water INfuse three Pounds of Roses in two Pints of Water two or three hours then distil them in the Still as you do the Orange-flowers observe the same Rules for they are made after the same manner you may put less Water and make it stronger But as Rose-water is very much used in cleansing Snuff and orange-Orange-water also you must distil enough when you use it for that purpose when you use it for other things you may make it as strong as you will as I said before The Queen of Hungary's Water POUR in a strong Glass-bottle two Pints of Spirit of Wine two good handfuls of Rosemary-leaves a handful of Thyme half a handful of Sweet-Marjoram the Leaves only and as much of Sage stop the Bottle very well expose it in the Sun a whole Month then you must dissolve the bigness of a Bean of Orcanet with a little Spirit of Wine bruise the Orcanet pour it in your Bottle and expose it again to the Sun four or five days and 't is done It will be of a fine Red of a sweet Smell and very strong Receipts to make Pastils to burn Ordinary Pastils BEAT in a Mortar a Pound of common Benjamin half an Ounce of Cloves two Gros of Cinnamon a bit of Calamus searce them all together through a hair Sieve then dissolve in Water some Gum of Adragant put in the Mortar your Powder searced with a Porringer of that Gum mingle them and beat them together to make a Paste of it if your Paste is too soft add to it more Powder that way the Paste is easily done you have nothing else to do but to flat your Paste with a Roling-pin and shape your Pastils in your Moulds as 't is before in the Receipt of Pastils for the Mouth dry them and they are done Pastils of Roses made into Wax-Tapers BEAT and searce through a Hair Sieve a Pound of Angel-water dregs as in the first Receipt of Waters use no Lemons and being in Powder you must put in the Mortar a handful of Leaves of Roses fresh and new gather'd and a Porringer of Gum of Adragant dissolved in Rose-water beat the whole together a long while to make well the Paste then flat it with a Roling-pin and cut it with a Knife into Lozinges To shape them in little Tapers take bits of them role them in your hands like Wax-Candles as long as your Finger make one end flat to stand and dry That sort of Pastils light like Candles and burn to the very last they give a most sweet and fragrant Smoak Spanish Pastils BEAT in Powder and searce through a Hair Sieve the Dregs of Angel-water as in the second Receipt of Angel-water water dissolve Gam of Adragant in Orange-flower-water and make a Paste of it in the Mortar with your Powder then cut your Pastils with your Moulds dry them and they are done Portugal Pastils YOU must beat and searce through a Hair Sieve the best Dregs of Angel-water then dissolve some Gum of Adragant with Orange-flower-water and make your Paste in the Mortar with your Powder and your Gum as before observe only you must make your Paste a little more thick Then warm the bottom of the Mortar and the end of the Pestle and by its heat melt twenty Grains of Amber-griese or black Amber pour over it half a Spoonful of Millefleur-water to dissolve it you must pour of that Water to the quantity of half a Wine-glass then set your Mortar over a Chasing-dish of Fire and your Composition being hot pour it over your Paste mingle it well and 't is done Shape your Pastils to
least the Wood should spoil the Smell of the Flowers and soak up the Essence which drops in Take wooden Frames so made that they may go in the Box exactly they must be two Inches thick and round about full of Wire Pins You must also have as many Cloths as Frames these Cloths must be a little bigger than the Frames that you may fasten them round the Frames and stretch them by this Direction it is easie to Proportion the Cloths to the Frames and the Frames to the Box. The Cloths must be of Cotton and well washt in good Lye they must be washt again in fair Water then be well dryed Dip your Cloths in Ben Oyl and let them soak up all the Oyl they can squeeze them a little then stretch them over your Frames lay the first Frame in the bottom of the Box with Jasmin or Orange-flowers strew them even upon the Cloth and lay another Frame over continue so doing till you have laid in all your Frames or till your Box be full the Frames must be two Fingers thick that the Flowers laid between two Frames be not squeezed at all and by that means every Cloth will be full of Flowers over and under Leave your Flowers in the Frames twelve hours from Morning till Night put fresh ones often continue so doing for some days till you think the Smell is strong enough Then take your Cloths off your Frames fold them role them and tye them well with Pack-thread that they are not loose and press them in a Press to draw Oyl out of them and 't is the Essence of Flowers Observe that the Press must be Tinned over least the Wood soak the Essence Put under the Press Vessels very clean to receive the Essence then fill Glass-bottle with it Observe also that you cannot make it a Box but Essence of one sort of Flower at a time for the Smell of one will spoi the other and the Cloths which served to draw one Essence cannot serve for another except you wash them as before and dry them Essence of Millefleurs THAT Essence is prepared with Essence of all sorts of Flowers mixt together putting more of those whose Smell is weak and less of the strongest Smell and match them so well that you can hardly discern which prevails and 't is done Olive-Oyl perfum'd with Flowers TAKE the best and the sweetest Olive-Oyl you can find called Virgin-Oyl having no Smell at all it takes the better the Scent of Flowers Here is no other thing to be done to perfume it but to follow the Directions I give in the Receipt of Essences Oyl of Sweet Almonds perfumed and a Paste to wash Hands SCALD as many Sweet-Almonds as you please peel them let them drop and dry in the Air then beat them and pass them through a Sieve Lay them in a Box tinn'd within or pasted with clean white Paper Make a Bed of your Almonds beaten in Powder and over them lay a Bed of Flowers continue so doing as long as you have Almonds and Flowers let your Flowers lye from Morning till Night if that be not enough let them lye twenty four hours then take them out of the Sieve and renew them continue the same till your Almonds have taken the Smell of the Flowers After that take Linnen Cloths very strong a quarter of an Ell square well washed and dryed Lay your Almonds upon them and tye them in little Packs two and two together very close fold against fold in the Press and draw the Oyl of them and it will have the Smell of the Flowers The very Cakes of Almonds left will have the same Smell They are extraordinary good to wash Hands beat them only in a Mortar sift them through a Sieve and rub your Hands with them in a Bason of warm Water you may mix Iris Powder with it if you will This Paste we call the Paste of Provence Jasmin or Orange-flowers Paste Observe that in the Composition of Essences or Oyls the Cloths or Paste must be in the Press three hours at least to draw the Oyl Essence of Neroly THE Essence of Neroly comes out of the Fruit which is in the Orange-flower You can draw but very little of that Essence a great quantity of Water can make but an Ounce The way how to make it up is thus When the orange-Orange-water is distilling let it drop in a Bottle long narrow-necked and big-belly'd when the Bottle is full of Water let it stand and stop it and as the Essence is lighter it will certainly swim over the Water so rising to the Extremity of the neck of the Bottle you may easily pour it in another Glass it is Green at first but being kept a while it will turn Red. As it is impossible to pour that Essence without some Water with it to separate them put the Essence and the Water mixt with it in a Viol stop the neck with your Thumb and turn the Glass downwards the Essence being light will come to the top then take away your Thumb a little to let the Water out gently all the Water being out stop the hole again to keep in the Essence which remains alone Essence of Cedra or Bergamote THE Essence of Cedra comes out of a Citron which grows out of a Bough of a Citron-Tree grafted on a Bergamot Pear-Tree so the Citron which grows on it participates of the two qualities the Citron and the Pear To make Essence of it you must cut in little bits the Peel of those Citrons and squeeze them with your Fingers in a Glass-bottle where you can hardly put your Hand to squeeze the Rind as we do the Rind of Oranges in a Glass of Wine Thus by the quantity of it you have Essence Essence of strong Orange or of small Grain PUT what quantity you please of small Oranges not too ripe in a cold Still with Water let it distil in a Glass bottle long-necked let it rest a while the Essence will swim over take it out of the Water and keep it in Viols well stopt You will know in the Treatise of distilling Waters how to order your Alembick Essence of Citron MAKE the Essence of Citron after the same manner as the Essence of strong Orange cut only the Lemons in two and lay them in the Alembick with Water let them distil as before and take up the Essence I do not prescribe the quantity of Citrons nor Oranges it is easie to know what quantity of Waters is sufficient to boyl them and not burn them there must be Fruits enough to make the Essence A Receipt to prepare Wax for Wiskers MELT together four Ounces of white Wax two Ounces of Jasmin Pomatum or other in an earthen Pan upon a Chasing-dish stir them gently being melted pour a Spoonful of Essence of Citron or of strong Orange mix them well fill your Moulds and presently after let them stand in a Vessel full of cold Water being cold 't is done Black
Wax TO the same Composition as before mix only some black of Smoak your Wax will be black Gray Wax perfum'd MIX to the Preparation of the white Wax two Spoonfuls of fine Marechale Powder and the Wax will be gray Of another sort PUT two Spoonfuls of the Dregs of Angel-water in fine Powder to the Composition of white Wax and instead of Essence of strong Orange or Citron pour to it half a Spoonful of Essence of Amber or of Neroly fill your Moulds and 't is done A Treatise of Pomatums TAKE what quantity you think fit of the Leaf of Hogs-fat dip it in Water in bits as it comes from the Hog change the Water every three hours during four days and you must the two last days work it in Water with a Spoon every time you put new Water to it then take it out of the Water and drain it well Melt it over a soft Fire in a new Earthen Pan stirring it very gently that it do not burn Being melted pour your Pomatum in a Bason full of Water stirring continually the Water and the Pomatum together with the Spatula till it is quite cold and congealed Afterwards pour out the Water and continue to beat and stir your Pomatum and by degrees the Water will all come out Let the Pomatum rest a while then do as follows Prepare two Pewter Dishes of the same bigness lay your Pomatum two Inches thick in the Dishes in one of them strew over the Flowers you design to perfume your Pomatum withal all over even and cover it with the other Dish thus the Flowers will not be squeezed and will give their Smell to both Dishes Let the Flowers lye from Morning till Night if they are scarce with you leave them twenty four hours then take them up with your Pomatum and stir it a little spread it again and lay fresh and new Flowers as before continue so doing some days Morning and Night till your Pomatum is of a good and strong Smell and 't is done Keep it in Glasses You cannot make a good Pomatum and keep it well but of Jasmin and Orange-flowers or of Tuberose other Flowers are too weak to give a Sweet and lasting Odour Pomatum good to Refresh the Complexion and to take off the Redness and Pimples of the Face TAKE half a Pound of the Leaf of Hogs-fat dip it in the Water several days changing the Water as often as I prescribed in the first Receipt and your Fat being very white put it in a new Earthen Pan with two Pippins cut in bits without peeling them and an Ounce of the four cold Seeds set the Pot on a soft Fire and let your Pomatum be melting a quarter of an hour then take it off the Fire and mix in it an Ounce of Oyl of Sweet Almonds strain it after that through a Linnen Cloth tyed hard and let it drop in clear Water stir the Pomatum and the Water with a wooden Spatula till it is cold and congealed in the Water then pour out the Water and work your Pomatum again to draw out the rest of the Water and 't is done Another sort of Pomatum very good for the Face TAKE four Ounces of the Leaf of Hogs-fat and whiten it in Water as I said before then pour out the Water and put aside your Fat Melt after that a Penniworth of Virgin-wax two Penniworth of Sperma Ceti and two Ounces of Oyl of Sweet-Almonds in an Earthen Pan on a soft Fire do not let them boyl stir them in the mean while to mix them well together then melt gently your Hogs-fat prepared and pour it in the said Composition stir them well with the Spatula then pour the whole in a Bason full of Water stir again the Pomatum and the Water with the Spatula till it is congealed and then you must pour in it fresh Water and change it often till your Pomatum is very white do not forget to stir it continually with the Spatula and 't is done Another sort of Pomatum very fine for the Face TAKE two Ounces of Oyl of Sweet-Almonds half an Ounce of Virgin-Wax four Penny-worth of Sperma-Ceti melt the whole together in an Earthen Dish over a Chafing-dish full of burning Ashes stir gently the Wax with a wooden Spatula that the whole be well mingled and incorporated Then take off the Fire your Composition and pour to it by degrees some fair Water beating it in the mean while with the Spatula Continue so doing till your dish is full and your Pomatum congealed in the Water for it must swim in the Water Having so beat it a long while in the first Water pour the Water out and put some fresh still working your Pomatum till 't is white then it will swim upon the Water take it out with the Spatula and work it without Water till it is very white All the Water being strained out of your Pomatum mix in it Borax beaten very fine of the bigness of a small Nut and some Essence of Pearl beaten very fine mingle it all together very well and 't is done Pomatum for the Lips TAKE four Ounces of fresh new Butter an Ounce of Virgin Wax melt them being melted throw in it black Grapes boyl the whole a quarter of an Hour in the mean while bruise the Grapes with a Spoon strain after that your Pomatum through a fine Linnen Cloth to take away the dregs of the Grapes Then put the Pomatum on the Fire again pour over it two spoonfuls of Orange flower-water and boyl it again another boiling Bruise Orcanet the bigness of a Bean in a Poringer allay it with a little of Orange-flower-water and pour it over your Pomatum then work it well with a Spoon and take it off the Fire and 't is done Being cold lay it in Boxes or Pots You may keep that sort of Pomatum two years very good It is excellent for Sore and Scabby Lips A Receipt to make a Liquid Paste of Almonds to wash Hands without Water TAKE a Pound of bitter Almonds scald them peel them and dry them then beat them in a marble Mortar a long while that no lumps remain pour over it a little Milk to wet it and make it into a Paste Keep it aside Beat the Crum of the whitest Penny Loaf with a little Milk and make it in a Paste then mix in the Mortar the Almond Paste with the Bread add to it ten Yolks of Eggs without the Tread beat them altogether very well pouring by degrees some Milk stirring and allaying still the Paste you may pour so three pints of Milk then put it all in a Kettle over the Fire and boil it very well Stir it and turn it continually with a Ladle till it is well boiled It must boil an hour at least It is enough boiled when it is thick Opiate in Powder to cleanse the Teeth TAKE half a Pound of Brick Sand very fine four Ounces of fine China Powder an Ounce of Coral
grind alone as big as a Small nut Gum of Adragant dissolved with Orange flower-flower-water after that mix your Civet dropping a little of the millefleur-Millefleur-water continue so doing till it is all well mixt together then put your Composition in the Mortar pour more Water in it stirring it till it is reduced to a quarter of a Pint then lay your Perfume very even on your Gloves with a Spunge dry them in the Air upon a Line being dry rub them open them and Perfume them with Flowers as before Perfumes made with Musk. GRind upon a Marble Stone two Gros of Musk with three Drops of Essence of Flowers as before and being well mixt let them lye on the corner of the Marble then grind half a Gros of Civet with a few Drops of the same Essence lay it on another corner of your Marble then grind as big as a Nut Gum of Adragant dissolved with millefleur-Millefleur-water mixt with three or four Drops of Essence of Amber after that mix them all together very well with the last Water dropping it gently and when the whole is well mixt with the Water put it in a Mortar pouring more Water and stirring it with the Pestle till it is reduced to half a Pint then rub your Gloves and Skins and let them dry Another sort GRind upon a Marble half a Gros of Civet with 3 or 4 Drops of Essence of Flowers being Grinded put it aside then grind Gum Adragant the bigness of a Small-nut dissolved with Millefleur Water then mix your Drugs together with Millefleur Water dropping it by degrees and when it is all well mixt put it in a Mortar pouring more Water to the quantity of half a Pint then lay it over your Gloves with a Spunge dry them and rub them open them and dress them again they will be well Perfum'd Perfume of Ambret MIX on the Marble Stone half a Gros of Civet with four Drops of Orange-flowers or any other being well mixt put it by then mix as big as a Small-nut Gum of Adragant dissolved in orange-flower-Orange-flower-water after that mix them well all together then warm pretty hot the little Mortar infuse in it one Gros of Amber with a little of Essence of Orange-flowers pouring some of it by degrees till it is reduced to a quarter of a Pint mix again your Civet with a few Drops of orange-flower-Orange-flower-water and being well mixt put it all in the Mortar and mix it well filling with more Water your Mortar to the quantity of half a Pint lay it over your Gloves or Skins with a Spunge and dry them in the Air. Perfume of Rome GRind on a Marble half a Gros of Civet with a few Drops of Essence of Orange-flower-water or other Essence put it by then mix Gum of Adragant of the bigness of a Small-nut dissolved with orange-flower-Orange-flower-water mix it all together very well then warm the little Mortar and infuse in it one Gros of Amber with a few Drops of orange-flower-Orange-flower-water pouring more to it by degrees till the whole comes to the quantity of a quarter of a Pint then mix again your Civet with some Drops of orange-flower-Orange-flower-water put it all together and mix it very well with more Water till it is reduced to half a Pint Perfume your Gloves or Skins with it and dry them Another sort GRind on a Marble half a Gros of Musk with a few Drops of Millefleur-water lay it by then bruise as big as a Small nut Gum of Adragant dissolved in Orange-flower-water mix after that the Musk with the Gum dropping Orange-flower-water being all well mixt Warm the little Mortar and melt a Gros of Amber diluted with four Drops of Essence of Amber being well infused and melted pour to it a little of millefleur-Millefleur-water then put your Musk and Amber in the Mortar mix them very well together with the Pestle pouring a Spoonful of Gum arabick-Arabick-water fill your Mortar with orange-flower-Orange-flower-water to the quantity of half a Pint and when you will Perfume your Gloves put the Mortar over a Chafing-dish of Fire to keep it warm and use it as before Spanish Perfume GRind upon a Marble Stone eighteen Grains of Civet with a few Drops of millefleur-Millefleur-water lay them by bruise Gum of Adragant as big as a Small-nut dissolved in millefleur-Millefleur-water then mix the Civet and the Gum together very well pouring more of the same Water till the whole comes to a quarter of a Pint Perfume your Gloves with that Composition and dry them being dry rub them and open them Grind one Gros of Musk upon a Marble with four or five Drops of Millefleur water being well mixt put it by then warm pretty well the little Mortar and melt two Gros of Amber with half a Spoonful of millefleur-Millefleur-water to dilute it being melted and mixt with that Water put to it your Musk and mix them all very well together with the Pestle pouring over it half a spoonful of Essence of Cloves pour more of the same Water and fill your Mortar to the quantity of half a Pint add to it two Spoonfuls of Gum Arabick-water when you use that Composition wash it over a Chafing-dish and Perfume your Gloves or Skins Perfumed Gloves and Skins with Amber YOU must grind upon a Marble eighteen Grains of Civer with half a Spoonful of orange-flower-Orange-flower-water then lay it aside bruise Gum of Adragant of the bigness of a Small-nut diluted in orange-flower-Orange-flower-water then mix the Civet with the Gum together pouring some of the same Water by degrees to the quantity of a quarter of a Pint so Perfume your Gloves and Skins rub it with a Spunge After that warm the little Mortar and dissolve two Gros of Amber with half a Spoonful of orange-flower-Orange-flower-water and four or five Drops of Essence of Amber your Amber being dissolved pour to your Preparation some of the same Water stirring it with the Pestle till it is reduced to a quarter of a Pint add to it two Spoonfuls of Gum of Arabick-water All being well mixt together warm your Perfume in the Mortar over a Chafing-dish and lay it over your Gloves with a Spunge and dry them When your Gloves and Skins are Perfumed let them dry upon Lines then stretch them with Sticks dress them again and lay them up But Gloves of Dogs or Kids Skins must be Oiled being dry rubbed and stretched within turn them the wrong side out and prepare them after this manner Preparation to Oyl Gloves on the wrong side BRuise two Gros of Essence of Amber and two Grains of Civet with an Ounce of Essence of Orange-flowers or Jasmin upon your Marble and mix them well together then lay it over the wrong side of your Gloves with a Spunge dry them in the Air dress them again and they are done Observe that the last Perfume you use and the most necessary to all sorts of things you will keep is to dry well before the Fire the Sheets of Paper you fold your Perfume in for tho' they look dry they are always
moist The Manner of Colouring Skins and Gloves YOU must Grind upon a Marble Stone the Colours you like best with a little of Ben Oyl or with Essence of Jasmin or Orange-flowers being well Grinded pour some Orange-flower-water by degrees Grinding still to mix them well then lay your Colour by upon the Marble bruise as much of Gum of Adragant as of Colour your Gum must be dissolved with Orange-flower-water then mix the Gum and the Colour together pour over it a little Orange-flower-water put the whole in an Earthen Pan pour more Water as much as you think fit Take care not to make it too thick then rub your Gloves or Skins with it with a Brush and let them dry in the Air after that rub them and stretch them with Sticks then Grind a little bit of your Colour with a bit of Gum of Adragant infused in orange-flower-Orange-flower-water and very clear rub your Gloves or Skins with it dry them again rub them and dress them again that last laying will keep the Colour a long while Mixture of Colours Isabella lively A Great deal of White half as much of Yellow and two thirds of Yellow and Red. Isabella Pale A great quantity of White half as much of Yellow and half as much of Red. Nut Colour Take some Ombre Earth used by Painters for shadowing a little of Yellow a little of White and a very little of Red. Light Nut-Colour The same Earth burnt as much Yellow a little of White and the same quantity of Red. Brownish Nut-Colour The same Earth burnt a little of black Stone of Yellow and Red. Amber Colour Much of Yellow little of White and Red. Gold Colour Great deal of Yellow with a little Red. Flesh Colour A little of Yellow and White and more Red then Yellow Straw Colour Much of Yellow little of White very little Red and a great deal of Gum. Brown Colour The same Earth burnt very much of black Stone a little of Black and Red. Light Brown The same Earth burnt a little of the black Stone a little of Red and White Frangipane Colour A little of the same Earth twice as much of Red and three times as much of Yellow Light Frangipane Little of the same Earth great deal of Yellow little of White and the same quantity of Red as Yellow Olive Colour The same Earth a little of Yellow the quarter part of Red and Yellow Wood Colour A great deal of Yellow little of White little of the said Earth and half as much of Red as of yellow Treatise of Snuff The manner of making Snuff IF your Tobacco is in Roles unrole it and dry it in the Sun if it is in Leaves dry it in the same way and being dry beat it in a Mortar The Sieve you make use of must be of Cloth pretty thin to let the biggest Grains of your Snuff pass through you must Sift presently what you beat for if you beat it too long you 'll reduce to Dust what is in Grains the whole being in Powder wash it after this manner How to Cleanse Snuff TAke a Bucket or another Vessel alike bigger then it need to contain the Snuff you will cleanse the Bucket must have a stop to let the Water out when you will line your Vessel within in the bottom and round about the edges with a Napkin of very strong and thick Cloath lest the Snuff should pass through Put your Snuff in the Vessel with Water enough to dip it well stir it in the Water and let it soak till the next day then pour the Water out and squeeze it as much as you can out of the Cloath pour in it more fresh Water and wash your Snuff again and let it soak as before do so at least two or three times at once This being done you 'll squeeze at last your Snuff as much as you can then get some Ozier hurdles covered with strong and thick Cloth and dry over them your Snuff in the Sun don't fail to stir it every minute to have it dry all over when it is very dry put it in your Bucket again with a good quantity of sweet Perfum'd Water of what sort you like best Roses Angel or Orange-flower-water are the best for Snuff Let it be in that Water till the next day then take it out squeeze it gently and let it dry again upon your hurdles stirring it very carefully while it is a drying being dry pour over more of the same Water again making it in a kind of a Paste let it be dry once more being thus dryed and cleansed it will easily take all manner of Smells of Flowers This way to cleanse Snuff is the best for the Snuff will the better take the smell you will give it it is true you cannot do it without wasting your Snuff very much but if you will spare sweet Waters and not lose much of your Snuff here is another manner of cleansing it Another way of Cleansing Snuff PUT your Snuff to soak in the Water only once for four and twenty Hours then let the Water out and squeeze the Snuff very well in the Cloth dry it upon hurdles stirring it as before being dry pour sweet Water over it and make it as a Past dry it again and pour more Water to it and dry it again then it is fit to receive what smell you please If you will Colour it Yellow or Red you must do it before you Perfume it with Flowers How to Colour Snuff of Yellow or Red Colours TAKE some Oaker Red or Yellow which you will suppose the bigness of an Egg mix with it fine white Chalk to temper the Colour a little bruise them upon a Marble Stone with half an Ounce of Oyl of sweet Almonds being well mixt pour to it some Water by degrees and mix it in the mean while till it is well mix't with the Water lay your Colour aside of the Marble then dilute two Spoon●uls of Gum Adragant liquid mix it with your Colour and Grind them again to mix them very well pouring in the mean while Water over it Then put the whole in an Earthen Pan pour more Water stirring it always to the quantity of a Pint or thereabouts This done take what quantity of Snuff cleansed you please and put it in a Pan or Vessel and pour over it your Colour working and mixing it very well with your Hands making it like a Paste not-very liquid but well soaked leave your Snuff in the Colour till the next day then dry it in the Sun upon Cloths stir it as fast as it dries being dry prepare a Gum to Gum it after this manner Bruise upon a Marble Gum Adragant dissolved in sweet Water pour over it some Water bruising still and make your Gum very thin and clear pour it in a Pan that you may easily put some more Water in it wet your Hands with that Gum and rub your Snuff and work it with your Hands till it is Gumm'd every where
Pockets Perfum'd for Ladies 88 Periwig Boxes Perfum'd ibid. Perfume for the wrong side of Taby 89 Perfumed Boxes to keep Linnen in ibid. Perfumed Toilets 90 Sweet Toilets as they are Perfumed at Montpellier 91 Another sort 92 Perfume to wear about you 93 Another sort ibid. Another sort 94 Another sort 95 Another sort ibid. Another sort ibid. Perfumes of Smoak ibid. Cotton Perfumed 96 Another sort ibid. Another sort ibid. To Perfume a Room with Smoak 97 Another way ibid. Treatise of Perfumed Skins and Gloves THE manner of Washing Skins for Fans and Perfuming them with Flowers 98 How to Wash all sorts of Skins and Perfume them 100 The Manner of Perfuming and Preparing Gloves 101 Perfumes for Gloves or Skins before you Perfume them with Flowers 102 Perfumes made with Musk. 103 Another sort 104 Perfume of Ambret ibid. Perfume of Rome 105 Another sort 106 Spanish Perfume 107 Perfumed Gloves or Skins with Amber 108 Preparations to Oyl Gloves on the wrong side 109 The Manner of Colouring Skins and Gloves 110 Mixture of Colours ISabella lively 111 Isabella Pale ibid. Nut Colour ibid. Light Nut Colour ibid. Brownish Nut Colour ibid Amber Colour ibid. Gold Colour ibid. Flesh Colour 112 Straw Colour ibid. Brown Colour ibid. Light Brown ibid. Frangipane Colour ibid. Light Frangipane ibid. Olive Colour ibid. Wood Colour ibid. Treatise of Snuff THE Manner of Making Snuff 113 How to Cleanse Snuff ibid. Another Way 115 How to Colour it Yellow and Red ibid. Snuff Perfumed with Flowers 117 Another Way 118 Buds of Roses to Perfume Snuff 119 Snuff Perfum'd with a great many sorts of Flowers 119 The Manner of Making Snuff of different sorts of Grains 120 Fine Spanish Snuff 120 How to Perfume Snuff with several Perfumes of different Smells 121 Snuff Perfumed with Essence of Bergamote ibid. Pongibon Snuff 121 Snuff Perfumed with Spanish Perfume 124 Spanish Snuff Perfum'd with Perfume of Rome ibid. Maltha Snuff 125 Amber'd Snuff 126 A LIST of the Ingredients of Perfumes AMber-greice Black Amber Pure Musk. Musk-bladders Dutch Civet English Civet Common Benjamin Fine Benjamin The cleanest Benjamin Storax liquid Storax dry Balm of Peru. Calamus Souchet Cinnamon Cloves Nutmegs Iris. Coriander Labdanum Makanet Starch The Wood of Sendal Citrain Wood of Roses Wood of St. Luce. Spirit of Wine Essence of Cloves Essence of Cinnamon of Havre de grace Essence of Dutch Cinnamon Oyl of Ben. Oyl of Sweet-Almonds Olive-Oyl Gum-Arabick Gum-Adragant Cachoo White-Sugar White Wax Coral Syrup of Cherries Orkanet Soap of Genoa The Flowers are Common Roses Musk Roses Roses of Province Hyacinth Violets Jonquils Daffadils Orange flowers Flowers of Jasmin Tuberoses Cacies Remarks on the Principal Drugs mentioned before to know whether they be Good or no. Of Amber AMber being a very dear Drug is necessary for the Buyers to know it well which will be very easie if you observe that when Amber is vented or has lost its vertue it is full of little white holes You must also take care that it should have no smell contrary to its nature To make trial of its goodness heat a Needle and prick the Amber with it if the smoak is sweet the Amber is good The same Rule may be observed for the Black Amber Several Authors have written of Amber I need not be large upon it it is commonly conjectured that it is formed at Sea and is a kind of Froth tossed by the Waves to the shore and which after a while is hardned Of Musk and Bladders of Musk. MUSK is an Animal found in hot Countries who is hunted till quite weary and so is taken alive being taken they prick him in several parts of his Body with a sharp Needle poysoned at the point the Venom of the Needle hinders the Blood from coming out on the contrary in every pricked place rises a Bladder of Blood and that the Blood should not return into the Body they split the Belly of the Beast and draw the smallest Guts out of it with which they tye the Bladders of Blood afterwards they keep them in the Sun till the Blood is coagulated then they cut off all the Bladders which are called Bladders of Musk and the true Musk is nothing else but the Blood which is in them as I said before The Bladders are not the Kidneys of the Musk nor the Kidneys of a Pole-Cat as many imagine but the Bags of Blood made as before The Kidneys of Pole-Cats are good for nothing they have indeed a Smell but weak and useless And as for the Musk if it be good it must break easily with your Fingers like dry Blood which is not hard however for when it is too hard and too dry it is a certain sign that it is too old and consequently has lost its Vertue and is good for nothing To preserve it you must keep it close in a leaden Box which Box should be inclosed in two or three other leaden Boxes to keep it fresh and good Of Civet THE Civet-Cat is a little bigger than a Pole-Cat and naturally very Melancholick They keep her in an Iron Cage and those who keep them make them Sweat by placing a great many Chafing-dishes full of Fire about their Cages they Sweat presently and as their Sweat thickens they gather with an Ivory Knife all the Sweat which is under the Chest and between the Legs which Sweat we call Civet When it is too old it looks brown and is not good it must be of a yellow golden Colour and of a strong and yet pleasant Smell to be good But above all it must not draw into Threads for then there is Hony mingled with it To preserve it put it in a Glass and the Glass in a leaden Box with Cotton about it Of Benjamin THE Common Benjamin is ordinarily very brown the best is of a Pearl colour full of white and big Spots clear shining the Smell very strong and clean much like Lemonds preserved with Hony They say it comes from Arabia and grows in the same Mountain where Frankincense is found It is hard in a Stone as we see it The Ancients call it Myrrh Of Storax THE Liquid Storax is always good as for the dry Storax you must not choose the dryest but when you will use it in Powder else the softer is the better for when it is new it breaks like Ginger-bread and then it smells best It comes also from Arabia and is a Gum dropping from a Tree The Smell is excellent especially in Compositions made to burn Of Balm of Peru. THE true Balm of Peru is known by the strength of its Smell and to be good the Smell must be strong and pleasant You may easily know when it is true and not adulterated by dipping in it a little Straw and letting it drop in a Glass of Water if the drop falls to the bottom without leaving any thing at the top the Balm is excellent Of Macanet YOU must break the Grains of Macanet if they look yellow it
it then fill them with the Composition in the first Receipt of sweet Bags with Cyprus Powder Perfum'd well mixt together sow your Bags trim them as fine as you will they are done Another sort TAKE the finest Silk cut your Bags a little bigger than others before and fill them with the following Perfumes Heat the bottom of a little Mortar melt in it eight Grains of Amber mix with them four Grains of Civet beaten small with the Pestle then pour gently over it two Spoonfuls of Millefleur Water with the bigness of a Pea of Gum Arabick dissolved with the same Water rub a little the wrong side of your Bags with the same Composition then fill them with Cyprus and Frangipane-Powders Perfum'd in the same quantity mix with it little bits of Bladder of Musk sow your Bags c. Fine Basket of Ozier Perfumed to keep Ladies Cloths in GET a Basket of fine Ozier of what bigness you will take as much of Silk as you want to line it stretch your Silk over an Imbroidering frame then over the Silk a Bed of Perfumed Cotton of the thickness of two Crown Peices strew over the Cotton some of the Marechal Powder and over the Powder some of the Sendal Citrain Wood well beaten then cover it all with the other piece of Silk quilt it in Lozinges This done cut your Silk according to the bottom of your Basket of the sides and the cover bind the edges with silk Galoon of the same colour of your Silk then sew it to the Basket very well Pockets perfum'd for ladies THE same Stuff Perfumes and Quilting as in the last Receipt will serve to Perfume Pockets cut your Stuff only for Pockets bend round the Seams with Silk Galoon and they are made Boxes perfum'd for Perriwigs THE Perriwig-boxes must be of Wood an Inch thick half an Ell long round at the ends and in the shape of a Perriwig To line it stretch on a Frame a bit of Silk and lay over it a Bed of Cotton well perfum'd thin and even strew over the Cotton the best Powder a la Marechale not too coarse and over that Powder a little of Sendal Citron-wood beaten very small Then cover it all with the finest Taby rubb'd before with the following Preparation Quilt your Silk and cut it according to the shape of your Box and the cover bind the edges with Silk Galoon of the same colour of the Tabby then line the in-side of the Box the out side must be covered with a perfum'd sweet Skin and the edges of the Skin cover'd with a gold or silver Galoon the Lock and Key gilt over How to perfume the wrong side of the Tabby WARM the bottom of a little Mortar then melt in it ten Grains of Amber stirring it with the Pestle pour four drops of Orange-flower-water add to it six Grains of Civet then mix it all together very well and pour over two Spoonfuls of Millefleur-water and a piece as big as a Pea of Gum-Arbick dissolved with the same Water the whole being well mixt rub gently with it the wrong side of the Tabby with a bit of Spunge and 't is done Boxes perfum'd to keep Linnen THOSE Boxes must be lined within cover'd and perfum'd after the same manner as the Perriwig-boxes the shape only of these must be like a little Trunk to keep fine Linnen for Persons of Quality To Perfume Toilets SWEET Toilets may be prepared of two sorts the first which differs nothing from the lining of the Perriwig-boxes is thus prepar'd Take as much Silk or Stuff as you will have your Toilet stretch it on a Frame lay over it a Bed of Cotton perfum'd and the Powder over the Cotton cover it with what Silk you will and Quilt it If the out-side of your Silk was not thick enough to endure the Preparation you rub it with add to that Composition some of the Millefleur-water have a sufficient quantity of Cotton to soak it then dry it and lay a Bed very thin and even all over your Powder or in many places and cover it all with your Silk well quilted and your Toilet is done Sweet Toilets as they prepare them at Montpellier TAKE new Linnen Cloth very strong not too thick cut it according to your Toilets dip them and wash them in several Waters then lay them in Angel-water all night dry them well and perfume them thus Beat in fine Powder and pass it through a hair Sieve two Pounds of Iris a Pound of Campane-root two Ounces of Wood of Roses and four Ounces of Sendal-Citrain one Ounce of Calamus two Ounces of Souchet half an Ounce of Cinnamon two Gros of Cloves and half an Ounce of Labdanum then mix them all together put them in a Mortar and pour over some Gum-Adragant dissolved with Angel-water the Gum must be very thin put Water enough that the Paste be fine and liquid rub your Toilets with that Paste on both sides as hard as you can rub them even then let them dry being almost dry take a Spunge dipt in angel-Angel-water rub your Toilets with it to make them smooth let them dry again and they are done When they are dry fold them as you will have them and keep them between two Cloths Another Preparation of the same THE Cloths being washt clean and dry as before make use of this Composition Beat very well one after another and pass very fine through a hair Sieve the following Drugs two Pounds of Iris a Pound of Campane-root two Ounces of Lemon-peels an Ounce of dry Orange-peels an Ounce of Cloves half a Pound of Benjamin four Ounces of Storax two Ounces of Souchet and one Ounce of Labdanum mix them all together and make a Paste very thin as in the former Receipt rub your Cloths prepare them as before and 't is done Perfumes to wear about you BEAT in a little Mortar the bigness of a Pea of Benjamin pour over it a few drops of Balm of Peru then add to it four Grains of Civet stir it and mix it well with the Pestle and put it with Cotton in your Perfume-box Another sort WARM the Mortar and melt in it four Grains of Amber infused in a few drops of Essence of Amber put to it two Grains of Civet mix it all and put it with Cotton in your Sweet Box. Another sort WARM the Mortar pretty hot as before melt in it six Grains of Amber dissolved with four drops of Millefleur-water add to it four Grains of Musk stir and bruise them all together put it into your little Box with Cotton rub'd with a Grain of Civet Another sort BRuise in the Mortar four Grains of Musk and two Grains of Civet pour over it four drops of Balm of Peru gather it up with Cotton and put it in your little Box. Another sort WARM the Mortar and melt in it twelve Grains of Amber and six Grains of Civet dissolved with some drops of Water then take a little Cotton dipt in a few drops
of Essence of Cloves and Cinnamon and take up your Perfume with that Cotton put it all in a little Bladder of Musk very close and wrap it with a bit of Sweet Skin sow'd round about you may cover it with another Stuff if you please Another sort IN Boxes with several little Partitions put several Sweet Drugs without any mixture as for Example in one Partition Balm of Peru in another Civet with Cotton and so in others different Perfumes as you like Perfumes to burn GET a wooden Trunk call'd a Perfuming Trunk it is like other Trunks only this has a hole at the bottom to put in two or three little Panfuls of Fire to burn the Perfumes and when they are burning stop the hole and at the top of the Trunk within about half a foot there is a wooden or wire Grate to hold what you design to Perfume turn your Perfume that the Smell should be even every where and that the Smoak should not black what you laid on the Grate This Receipt will serve for every thing you have a mind to perfume with Smoak Cotton perfum'd LAY your Cotton even upon the Grate and burn what sort of Pastils you will stuff up the Perfuming-Trunk and it will Smoak very sweetly Another sort LIght five or six Pastils made in Wax-Candles in the bottom of the Perfuming Trunk lay them upon Tiles and shut up the Trunk Another sort POUR in a Perfume-Pan or in a Silver Porringer Millefleur-water over a Pan of Fire and when the Water boyls he Steam of it will perfume Cotton You may boyl after the same manner Orange-flower-water pouring in it before three or four drops of Essence of Amber the Smell will be extraordinary fine How to Perfume a Room with Smoak SHUT all the Windows light Pastils made in Candles put them in the corners of the Room near the Hangings otherwise heat red-hot the Fire-shovel pour over it some Angel or Millefleur-water or Orange-flower-water with three drops of Essence of Amber the Smoak of it will perfume the Room all over Another sort PUT in a Perfuming-Pan or Silver Porringer what sort of Sweet-water you like lay them over Chafing-dishes of Fire when the Waters boyl the Steem of them is very Sweet You may burn all manner of Pastils upon hot Coals A Treatise of Perfumed Skins and Gloves The manner of Washing Skins for Fans and Perfuming them with Flowers CUT Sheep Skins Dressed a little bigger than you design them for Fans because you must stretch them round about the little Boards as you 'll see hereafter then wash them so long and so often in several Waters till the last Water is very clean leave them after that in Water till the next day squeeze them and dry them upon a Line being dry wash them in Orange-flower-water and leave them in it till the next day then take them out do not squeeze them much and hang them on a Line to dry be careful to take them down while they are drying because they must be dress'd as soon as they are dry or else you 'll be in danger to tear them and spoil them then give them what Colour you please on both sides with a Spunge then stretch them on your Frames and dry them in the Air. The Frames or Moulds for Fans are little Boards of the thickness of two Crown Peices cut in the shape of your Fans having points of Needles round about to stretch the Skins with Observe that the fleshy part of the Skins must be always without When your Skins are dry Perfume them as you 'll find in the Receipts for Perfuming Skins and Gloves and while they are upon the little Boards rub them only with your Composition on the Fleshy side being dry take them up to Perfume them with Flowers When you design to Perfume them with Flowers choose Perfumes where the Civet prevails or you may use other Perfumes Your Fans being thus Prepared take a Box and lay in it a bed of Flowers and a bed of Skins continue so doing till you fill the Box with both if you have plenty of Flowers put fresh ones every twelve Hours if not every twenty four Hours do so five or six times your Skins are well Perfumed Orange-flowers are the best for that use How to Wash all sorts of great Skins and Perfume them CHoose what Skins you please Shamays or Sheeps Lambs Kids or Dogs-Skins not prepared before with Yolks of Eggs for commonly those Skins are so prepared to make them fine and limber but it is contrary to Perfumes they must be also dressed Wash them as you have done the Skins of Fans in fair Water then let them lye till the next Day Take them out squeeze them and dry them upon a Line then rub them very well and soften them dip them after that in orange-flower-Orange-flower-water four and twenty hours take them out of the Water and don 't squeeze them much being dry rub them well and stretch them then colour them of what Colour you please as you 'll find in this Treatise Being Coloured Perfume them how you please before you use any Flowers or else you may Perfume them with Flowers alone thus Your Skins prepared as before take a Box according to the quantity of your Skins lay in a Bed of Flowers and a Bed of Skins so doing let them lye 24 Hours then take out your Skins and hang them open on a Line an Hour to dry then rub them well and open them cover them again with Flowers as you have done before five or six Days and they are done The manner of Preparing and Perfuming Gloves CLean and Wash your Skins as you have done before cut and sew your Gloves then Colour them as you please if you will Perfume them with other Perfumes do it before you Perfume them with Flowers as you 'll find hereafter being thus prepared put them in a Box lay in a Bed of Flowers and a Bed of Skins continue so doing till you have no more Gloves nor Flowers let them lye in the Box till the next day for 24 Hours at most then take them out dry them in the Air upon a Line for an Hour rub them after that well open them and turn them cover them again with fresh Flowers on the wrong side of the Skin continue so doing on both sides four or five Days then rub them and prepare them again they will be well Perfum'd You must Perfume once or twice the Paper you beat them in lest it should lessen the smell The Gloves and Skins you Perfume with precious Perfumes as Amber Musk and Civet will be well Perfum'd without any Flowers How to Perfume Gloves or Skins before you Perfume them with Flowers GRind on a Marble Stone with a Muller a Gros or the eighth part of an Ounce of Civet with two or three Drops of Essence of Orange-flowers or other Flowers made of Ben Oyl being well mixt together drop to it a little of Millefleur-water then
over then let it dry stirring it every minute Being very dry pass your Snuff through the finest Sieve you can find it will at that time be fit to be Perfum'd with Flowers or any other Perfume Snuff Perfum'd with Flowers THE Flowers much used for Perfuming Snuff are orange-flower-Orange-flower-water Jasmin common Roses musqued Roses and Tuberoses other Flowers can hardly Perfume naturally unless you use a great quantity of them and add to them some Essence of the same Flowers as you 'll see in the Receipts for Perfuming Snuff but when all is done the smell never last long as in other Perfumes Here is the manner how to use them in Perfuming Snuff Get a Wooden Box as big as you have occasion for line within with dry Paper lay in it a Bed of Snuff an Inch thick then a Bed of Flowers and so along till you have no more of it let it lay so in the Flowers Twenty four Hours then searce your Snuff to take out the Flowers and renew them at the same time continue so doing four or five days and when you think your Snuff is Perfum'd enough with Flowers keep it very close in your Boxes in a very dry place don't meddle with it when the Flowers are within because it will not heat Another manner of Perfuming Snuff with Flowers GET a good quantity of Sheets of Paper dryed before the Fire of the bigness and shape or thereabouts of your Boxes prick them all over with a big Pin then to Perfume your Snuff with Flowers lay a Bed of them an Inch thick in the Box and over one Sheet of that Paper and over the Paper a Bed of Flowers and another sheet of Paper over the Flowers lay over that sheet another Bed of Snuff and continue so doing till you have none left So the Flowers are between two Papers and the Snuff too without touching the Flowers and by that means the Snuff takes naturally the Smell of the Flowers because the same Smell is not corrupted or alter'd by the Snuff Change your Flowers according to the Plenty you have of them and when you take them out take up only the sheets of Paper and pass your Snuff through a fine hair Sieve to let your Snuff through and keep in the Flowers Flower it so four or five days and 't is done Snuff perfum'd with Buds of Roses TAKE as much Buds of Roses as you will pluck out the green knots and in their room put as many Cloves Then throw them in a Glass-bottle well stopt expose the Bottle to the hot sun three Weeks or a Month you may use them after to perfume your Snuff being cleansed they will give a very sweet Smell to it Snuff perfum'd with a great many sorts of Flowers NOthing else is to be done but to mix together Snuff perfum'd with several sweet Flowers and to prepare it so well by more or less of it that you can hardly discern which Smell prevails and 't is done The manner of making Snuff in Grains of different bigness GET several sorts of Sieves some of thin others of very thick Cloth and so according to the courseness of your Cloth you 'll make the Grains of your Snuff in passing it through you must not searce it but when it is perfum'd with Flowers Fine Spanish Snuff THE true Spanish Snuff is very fine and redish to make it take red Snuff in Grains beat it in a Mortar and pass it very fine through a Sieve and being cleansed before it is colour'd as I prescribe in the beginning of this Treatise perfume it only with Flowers then with some Spanish Perfume or other and 't is done To perfume Snuff well it is not enough to perfume it with Flowers you must use other Perfumes it is true being only perfum'd with Flowers it may be good to be perfumed with the Perfumes we mention hereafter I leave it to every ones Fancy I 'll say only this That the Smell of Flowers does very well mixt with the most sweet and precious Smells and that they are of a stronger and more lasting Vertue I do not mention here several Perfumes very ordinary which every one may compose according to his Fancy I give only the Receipts of the best and most Curious it is easie for any body that understands the Smells good for Perfumes to make them How to Perfume Snuff in Grains with Perfumes of different Smells Cedra or Bergamot Snuff IT is not necessary to use Snuff perfumed with Flowers to perfume it with Bergamot Essence it is enough if the Snuff is well cleansed the reason is because the Essence of Bergamot is of a very strong Smell and penetrates it all over Therefore pour only a few drops of it in an Ounce of Snuff mingle it well and 't is done Snuff of Neroly THE Essence of Neroly being of a very strong Smell use it as you have done the Essence of Bergamot the Smell is strong and very fine if you do not put too much for it works through more than the Essence of Bergamot observe that if you will have Snuff of Neroly the Essence must be true and pure for if it is mixt in the least your Snuff will in time be of a Smell very unpleasant Pongibon Snuff TAKE a Pound of yellow Snuff perfum'd with Orange flowers beat in a little Mortar twelve Grains of Civet with a bit of Sugar being well beaten and mixt with a little of your Snuff continue to pour it in the Mortar mixing it still with the Pestle till the Mortar is full then take it out of the Mortar add the remnant of the Pound of your Snuff to what was in the Mortar and mix it very well with your hands After that fill your Mortar half full of the same Snuff and pour over it half an Ounce of Essence of Orange-flower-water mixing it still with the Pestle then fill up the Mortar with your Snuff to mix the better the Essence Take the Snuff out of the Mortar again and mix it well with the other that was left and your Snuff is done It will be of a very sweet and lasting Smell and though your Essence is very oily your Snuff will not be so nor the worse if you do not put more than I prescribe If the Snuff is perfumed with Jasmin-flowers make use of Essence of the same Flowers and so of other Flowers All sorts of Snuff may be perfumed the same way Snuff perfum'd with Musk. TAKE Snuff perfum'd with what sort of Flowers you like best suppose a Pound put in a little Mortar twenty Grains of Musk with a bit of Sugar beat them together then put by degrees your Snuff in the Mortar till it is full stirring it all still with the Pestle then take it out and mix it very well with the rest of your Snuff Snuff perfum'd with Spanish Perfume TAKE a Pound of Snuff perfum'd with any sort of Flowers beat in a little Mortar twenty Grains of Musk with a little lump of Sugar then put in gently your Snuff stirring it still Your Mortar being full empty it by and cover it with the rest of your Snuff least it should lose its Vertue Then beat in the Mortar ten Grains of Civet with a bit of Sugar and put your Snuff gently to the top mixing it still take it out and mix it very well with your hands with the r●●… Snuff perfum'd with Perfume of Rome TAKE a Pound of Snuff of what Perfume of Flowers you please warm the little Mortar very well and melt in it twenty Grains of Amber put in your Snuff by degrees and stir it still till your Mortar is half full then take the Snuff out put it by and cover it with the rest This being done beat in the same Mortar ten Grains of Musk with a bit of Sugar throwing over it your Snuff and being well mingled mix it with the other and cover it again you must also beat five Grains of Civet with a bit of Sugar mingle it with some of your Snuff take it out again and mix the whole together very well your Snuff will be well perfumed Snuff perfumed with Perfume of Maltha TAKE a Pound of Snuff perfum'd with Orange-flowers warm the little Mortar and melt in it twenty Grains of Amber mix with it a little Snuff putting always some of it in the Mortar and stirring it wth the Pestle till your Mortar is full then take the Snuff out and cover it with part of the rest left beat after that in the Mortar ten Grains of Civet with a little Sugar throwing more Snuff and mixing it then take it out and mix the whole very well together Snuff Amber'd TAKE a Pound of Snuff of any Flowers warm the Water and melt in it twenty four Grains of Amber throw over some Snuff gently mixing it still with the Pestle till the Mortar is full take it out and mix it with the rest that is left 't is done As in Perfumes every one has his Opinion and a great many perhaps love Snuff very well perfum'd some will have it of a sweet Smell and yet strong I hope I have pleased them in my Receipts For if the Smells are too strong let them put more Snuff to it after it has been perfum'd and it will be sweeter more or less will do the business because the Preparations are good but above all keep your Snuff very close in your Boxes least it should be spoiled and lose its Vertue and Smell FINIS ORoonoko A Tragedy Written by Tho. Southerne Printed for S. Buckley * Cedra is a kind of Citron-Tree