were slaine This hill seemeth to be the very same which now is called Bannesdowne over a little village neere this Citie which they call Bathstone on which there are bankes and a rampier as yet to be seene Yet some there be I know who seeke for this hill in Yorkshire But Gildas may bring them backe againe to this place For in a manuscript Copie within Cambridge-Librarie where he writeth of the victorie of Aurelius Ambrose thus we read Vntill that yeare wherein siege was laid to the hill of Badonicus which is not farre from Severne mouth But in case this may not perswade them know they that the vale which runneth here along the river Avon is named in British Nant Badon that is The Vale of Badon and where we should seeke for the hill Badonicus but by the Vale Badonica I cannot hitherto see Neither durst the Saxons for a long time after set upon this Citie but left it for a great while to the Britans Howbeit in the yeare of Christ 577. when Cowalin King of the West-Saxons had defeated the Britans at Deorbam in Glocestershire being both straightly besieged and also assaulted it yeilded at first and within few yeares recovering some strength grew up to great dignity and therewith got a new name Ackmancester as I said For Osbrich in the yeare 676. founded a Nunnery there and immediately after when the Mercians had gotten it under them King Offa built another Church both which in the time of the Danish broiles were overthrowne Out of the ruines of these two arose afterwards the Church of S. Peter in which Eadgar surnamed the Peace-maker being crowned and sacred King bestowed upon the Citie very many Immunities the memorie of which thing the Citizens yearely with Solemne plaies doe yet celebrate In Edward the Confessors time as we read in Domes-booke of England it paied tribute according to 20. Hides when as the Shire paid There the King had 64. Burgers and 30. Burgers of others But this prosperitie of theirs endured not long for soone after the Normans comming in Robert Mowbray Nephew to the Bishop of Constance who had raised no small Sedition against King William Rufus sacked and burned it Yet in short space it revived and recovered it selfe by meanes of Iohn de Villula of Tours in France who being Bishop of Welles for five hundred markes as saith William of Malmesburie purchased this Citie of King Henry the First and translated his Episcopall chaire hither retaining also the title of Bishop of Welles and for his owne See built a new Church which being not long since ready to fal Olivar Bishop of Bathe began to found another hard by that old a curious and stately piece of worke I assure you and almost finished the same Which if he had performed indeed it would no doubt have surpassed the most Cathedrall Churches of England But the untimely death of so magnificent a Bishop the iniquitie and troubles of the time and the suppression of religious houses ensuing with the late avarice of some who have craftily conveied the money collected throughout England for that use another way if it be true that is reported have envied it that glory But neverthelesse this Citie hath flourished as well by clothing as by reason of usuall concourse thither for health twice every yeare yea and hath fortified it selfe with walles wherein there are set certaine Antique Images and Roman Inscriptions for the proofe of their antiquitie which now by age are so eaten into and worne that they can hardly be read And that nothing might be wanting to the state and dignitie of Bathe some noble men it hath honoured with the title of Earle For we read that Philibert of Chandew descended out of Bretaigne in France was by King Henry the Seventh stiled with this honor Afterwards King Henrie the Eighth in the 28. yeare of his reigne created Iohn Bourcher Lord Fitzwarin Earle of Bathe Who died shortly after leaving by his wife the sister of H. Daubeney Earle of bridge-Bridge-water Iohn second Earle of this familie who by the daughter of George Lord Roos had Iohn Lord Fitz-Warin who deceased before his father having by Fr. the daughter of S. Thomas Kitson of Hengrave William now third Earle of Bathe who endeavoureth to beautifie and adorne his nobilitie of birth with commendable studies of good letters The longitude of this Citie is according to Geographers measure 20. degrees and 16. minutes But the Latitude 51. degrees and 21. minutes And now for a farwell loe heere Nechams verses such as they bee of these hot waters at Bathe who lived 400. yeares since Bathoniae thermas vix praefero Virgilianas Confecto prosunt balnea nostra seni Prosunt attritis collisis invalidisque Et quorum morbis frigida causa subest Praevenit humanum stabilis natura laborem Servit naturae legibus artis opus Igne suo succensa quibus data balnea fervent Aenea subter aquas vasa latere putant Errorem figmenta solent inducere passim Sed quid sulphureum novimus esse locum Our Bathes at Bath with Virgils to compare For their effects I dare almost be bold For feeble folke and crasie good they are For bruis'd consum'd far-spent and very old For those likewise whose sicknesse comes of cold Nature prevents the painfull skill of man Arts worke againe helps nature what it can Men thinke these Baths of ours are made thus hot By reason of some secret force of fire Which under them as under brazen pot Makes more or lesse as reason doth require The waters boile and walme to our desire Such fancies vaine use errors forth to bring But what we know from Brimstone veines they spring Have heere also if you list to read them two ancient Inscriptions very lately digged up neere the Citie in Waldcot field hard by the Kings high way side which Robert Chambers a studious lover of antiquities hath translated into his garden From whence I copied them out G. MVRRIVS C. F. ARNIEN SIS FORO IVLI. MODESTVS MIL. LEG II. AD. P. F. IVLI. SECVND AN. XXV STIPEND H. S. E. DIS MANIBVS M. VALERIVS M. POL. EATINVS C. EQ MILES LEG AVG. AN. XXX STIPEND X. H. S. E. I have seene these Antiquities also fastened in the walles on the in-side betweene the North and West gates to wit Hercules bearing his left hand aloft with a club in his right hand In the fragment of a stone in great and faire letters DEC COLONIAE GLEV. VIXIT AN. LXXXVI Then leaves folded in Hercules streining two Snakes and in a grave or Sepulcher-table betweene two little images of which the one holdeth the Horne of Amalthaea in a worse character which cannot easily be read D. M. SVCC PETRONIAE VIXIT ANN. IIII. M. IIII. D. XV. EPO MVLVSET VICTISIRANA FIL. KAR. FEC A little beneath in the fragment of a stone in greater letters VRN IOP Betweene the West and
by his onely daughter to the Earles of Stafford who were afterward Dukes of Buckingham from them by attainder to the Crowne It hath in latter ages beene beholden to Sir Andrew Iude of London for a faire free-Schoole and to Iohn Wilford for a causey toward London Three miles directly South from hence in the very limit of Sussex and neere Frant I saw in a white-sandy ground divers vastie craggie stones of strange formes whereof two of the greatest stand so close together and yet severed with so straight a line as you would thinke they had beene sawed asunder and Nature when she reared these might seeme sportingly to have thought of a Sea But to returne to the River From Tunbridge Medway passeth by Haudelo from whence came that Iohn Haudelo who happily marrying the heire of the Lord Burnell had issue by her a sonne who was called Nicholas summoned to Parliament among the Barons by the name of Burnell Then Medway increased with another water called Twist which twisteth about and insulateth a large plot of good ground runneth on not farre from Mereworth where stands a faire Castle like house which from the Earles of Arundell came unto the Nevils Lords of Abergevennie and Le Despencer whose heire in the right line is Marie Ladie Fane unto whom and her heires King Iames in the first Parliament that he held restored gave and granted c. the name stile title honour and dignitie of Baronesse le Despencer that her heires successively should be Barons le Despencer for ever Now by this time Medway having received a rivelet that looseth it selfe under ground and riseth againe at Loose serving thirteene fulling-mills hastneth to Maidstone which seeing the Saxons called it Medwegston 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 I beleeve verily it is the same VAGNIACAE which Antonine the Emperor mentioneth and Ninnius in his Catalogue of cities calleth corruply Caer Megwad for Medwag Neither verily doth the account of distance disagree From Noviomagus one way and Durobrovis another whereof I shall treat anone Under the latter Emperours as is to be seene in Peutegerus his table lately set out by M. Velserus it is named MADVS Thus as yeeres by litlte and little turne about so names likewise by little and little become changed A large faire and sweet towne this is and populous for the faire stone bridge it hath been beholding to the Archbishops of Canterbury Among whom to grace this place at the confluence of the waters Boniface of Savoy built a a small Colledge Iohn Vfford raised a palace for himselfe and successors which Simon Islip encreased and betweene them which it standeth in plight William Courtney erected a faire Collegiat Church in which he so great a Prelate and so high borne lieth lowly entombed One of the two common Gaoles or prisons of the whole County is here appointed And it hath beene endowed with sundrie priviledges by King Edward the sixt incorporated by the name of Major and Iurates all which in short time they lost by favouring rebels But Queene Elizabeth amply restored them and their Major whereas anciently they had a Portgreve for their head Magistrate This I note because this Greve is an ancient Saxon word and as yet among the Germans signifieth a Ruler as Markegrave Reingrave Landgrave c. Here a little beneath Maidstone Eastward a prety rivelet joyneth with Medway springing first at Leneham which towne by probable conjecture is the very same that Antonine the Emperour calleth DVROLENVM written amisse in some copies DVROLEVUM For Durolenum in the British language is as much to say as The water Lenum And besides the remaines of the name the distance also from DVROVENVM and DVROBROVIS proveth this to be Durolenum to say nothing of the scituation therof neere unto that high rode way of the Romans which in old time as Higden of Chester doth write led from Dover through the midst of Kent Hard by at Bocton Malherb hath dwelt a long time the family of the Wottons out of which in our remembrance flourished both Nicolas Wotton Doct. of the lawes who being of the Privy counsell to K. Henry the Eight K. Edward the sixth Q. Mary and Q. Elizabeth sent in Embassage nine times to forreine Princes and thrice chosen a Committè about peace between the English French and Scottish lived a goodly time and ran a long race in this life with great commendation of piety and wisedome and also Sir Edward Wotton whom for his approved wisedome in waightie affaires Q. Elizabeth made Controller of her house and K. Iames created Baron Wotton of Merlay Here under is Vlcomb anciently a mansiō of the family De sancto Leodegario corruptly called Sentleger Sellenger Motinden where Sir R. Rockesly descended from Kriol and Crevecur built a house who held lands at Seaton by serjeantie to be Vantrarius Regis when the K. goeth into Gascoin donec perusus fuerit pari solutarum pretii 4. d. which as they that understand Law Latin for I do not translate that he should be the Kings fore-foot-man until he had worn out a paire of shooes prized 4. d. Neither hath this river any other memorable thing nere to it but Leeds Castle built by the noble Crevequers who in ancient charters are named de Crevequer De crepito corde afterwards it was the unfortunate seat of Bartholomew L. Baldismer who perfidiously fortified it against K. EDVVARD the second who had freely given it him and after that payed the due price of his disloyaltie upon the gallowes The whole matter you may reade here if you list out of a briefe historie penned by Thomas de la More a gentleman that lived at the same time and which of late I did publish in print In the yeare 1521. Queene Isabel came to the Castle of Leeds about the feast of Saint Michael minding there to lodge all night but was not permitted to enter in The King offended hereat as taking it to be done in contempt of him called certaine of the neighbour inhabitants out of Essex and London and commanded them to lay siege unto the Castle Now there held the Castle at that time Bartholomew de Baldismer who having left therein his wife and sonnes was gone himselfe with the rest of the Barons to overthrow the Hughs de Spencer Meane-while when they that were inclosed within despaired of their lives the Barons with their associats came as farre as Kingston and by the mediation of the Bishops of Canterbury and London together with the Earle of Pembroch requested that the King would remove his siege promising to deliver up the Castle into the Kings hand after the next Parliament But the King considering well that the besieged could not long hold out nor make resistance being highly displeased angred at their cōtumacy would not give eare to the Barons petitions And when they had turned their journey another way hee afterward forced the Castle with no
it selfe having nothing in it at all to shew glorieth yet in this that Geffrey Chaucer our English Homer was there bred and brought up Of whom and of our English Poets I may truely avouch that which that learned Italian said of Homer and the Greeke Poets Hic ille est cujus de gurgite sacro Combibit arcanos vatum omnis turba furores This is the man whose sacred streame hath served all the crew Of Poets thence they dranke their fill thence they their furies drew For he surpassing all others without question in wit and leaving our smattering Poet-asters by many degrees behinde him jam monte potitus Ridet anhelantem dura ad fastigia turbam When once himselfe the steepe top hill had wonne At all the sort of them he laught anone To see how they the pitch thereof to gaine Puffing and blowing doe clamber up in vaine Isis having now entertained Evenlode divideth his Chanell and severing it selfe maketh many and those most delectable Islands neere which stood Godstow a little Nunnery which Dame Ida a rich widow built and King John both repaired and also endowed with yearely Revenewes that these holy Virgins might releeve with their prayer for by this time had that persuasion possessed all mens mindes the soules of King Henry the Second his father and of Rosamund For there was she buryed with this Epitaph in Rhyme Hac jacet in tumbâ Rosa mundi non Rosamunda Non redolet sed olet quae redolere solet Rose of the World not Rose the fresh pure floure Within this Tombe hath taken up her boure She senteth now and nothing sweet doth smell Which earst was wont to savour passing well We read that Hugh the Bishop of Lincolne Diocesan of this place comming hither caused her bones to bee removed out of the Church as unworthy of Christian buriall for her unchaste life Neverthelesse the holy sisters there translated them againe into the Church and layed them up in a perfumed leather bagge enclosed in lead as was found in her Tombe at the dissolution of the house and they erected a Crosse there whereby the Passengers were put in minde with two rhyming Verses to serve God and pray for her But I remember them not Neither doth the Ouse or Isis as yet gather himselfe into one streame when hee meeteth with Cherwell which out of Northampton-shire runneth almost through the mids of this Country This River first watereth Banbury sometime 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a faire large Towne at which Kinric the West Saxon King in old time put to flight the Britans in a memorable battaile fighting manfully for their lives state and all they had and in this later foregoing age not farre off Richard Nevill Earle of Warwicke siding with the house of Lancaster gave such an overthrow to those of Yorke that forthwith also he tooke King Edward the Fourth now forlorne and hopelesse Now the fame of this Towne is for zeale cheese and cakes and hath a Castle for shew which Alexander Bishop of Lincolne for to the See of Lincolne it belongeth first built who having a minde to dwell stately rather than quietly brought upon himselfe many adversities by his huge buildings About this Towne that I may observe so much by the way peeces of the Romane Emperours Coine found as also elsewhere in the field neere adjoyning make somewhat to prove the antiquity of the place Neere to Banbury is Hanwell where the Family of Cope hath flourished many yeares in great and good esteeme And neere it againe is Broughton the habitation of Sir Richard Fienes or Fenis unto whom and to the heires of his body the most mighty Prince King James in the first yeare of his Raigne Recognized and confirmed the name stile title degree dignity and honour of the Baron Say and Sele as who lineally descended from Sir James Fienes Baron Say and Sele and Lord high Treasurer of England who was cruelly beheaded by a rable of Rebells in the time of King Henry the Sixth Cherwell carrying his Streame along from Banbury seeth nothing but pleasant fields passing well husbanded and as plentifull medowes Amongst which stand Heiford Warin so denominated Warin Fitz-Gerold Lord thereof Heyford Purcell likewise so named of the Purcels or de Porcellis ancient Gentlemen the old owners Blechindon an an ancient Possession of the ancient Family Le Pover and Islip in elder time Ghistlipe the natall place of that King Edward whom for his religious Piety and continency our Ancestours and the Popes vouchsafed the name of Saint Edward the Confessor as hee himselfe witnesseth in the originall-Charter whereby he granted this place to the Church of Westminster Here there runneth a riveret from the East in to Cherwell which passeth by Burcester in the English Saxons tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a little towne carrying an ancient name but wherein I have observed no matter of antiquity save that Gilbert Basset and Egelina Courteney his Wife built heere a Religious House in honour of Saint Eadburga in the time of King Henry the Second and that not long since the Barons Le Strange of Knocking were Lords of the place But Westward there lie some few remaines of a decayed and forlorne ancient station Alchester they call it happily as one would say Aldchester that is an old Towne by which a Port way from Wallengford as the neighbour Inhabitants thinke led to Banbury and the same they called Akemanstreet way the Tract whereof for certaine miles together is yet most plainly to bee seene in the plaine of Otmore which oftentimes is strangely overspread with winter waters Cherwell thus increased passeth Southward nere to Hedindon which King Iohn gave to Sir Thomas Basset for his Barony But where Cherwell is confluent with Isis and pleasant Eights or Islets lye dispersed by the sundry disseverings of Waters there the most Famous University of OXFORD called in the English Saxon tongue Oxenford sheweth it selfe aloft in a Champion plaine OXFORD I say our most noble Athens The Muses-Seate and one of Englands stayes nay The Sunne the Eye and the Soule thereof the very Source and most cleare Spring of good Literature and Wisedome From whence Religion Civility and Learning are spred most plenteously into all parts of the Realme A faire and goodly Citty whether a man respect the seemely beauty of private houses or the stately magnificence of publike buildings together with the wholsome sight or pleasant prospect thereof For the hils beset with woods doe so environ the plaine that as on the one side they exclude the pestilent Southwinde and the tempestuous West winde on the other so they let in the cleering Eastern-winde onely and the North-east winde with all which free from all corruption Whence it came to passe that of this Situation it was as writers recorde in ancient times called Bellositum Some are of opinion that it hath beene named Caer Vortigern
the Pestane Rose surpasse Her eyes gemmes of great cost Her haire the Lilies fresh and white Her necke the hoary frost And as she runnes her haire all wet She doth behind her cast Which waving thus she kembeth slick And layeth even at last Lo Isis sudainly out of The Waves so mild doth shew His lovely face his eies withall Glitter with golden hew As they from dropping visage send Their beames the fields throughout Whiles one anothers neck with armes Displayd they clip about Full sweetly he doth Tama kisse Whom he hath wish'd so long A thousand kisses twixt them twain Doe now resound among With clasping close their armes wax pale Their lips their hearts linke fast To nuptiall chamber thus they both Jointly descend at last Where CONCORD with religious FAITH Together both ymet Knit up the knot of wedlock sure With words in forme yset And now the pipes of thyrled box On every side resound The water Nymphes the Dryades The wanton Satyrs round About the place disport and dance The measures cunningly Whiles on the grasse they foote it fine In rounds as merily The Birds heerewith in every wood Melodiously doe sing And ECHO her redoubled notes In mirth strives forth to ring All things now laugh the fields rejoice The CVPIDS as they fly Amid the aire on bridled birds Clap hands right pleasantly BRITONA hand-fast-maker shee All clad in Laurell green Play 's on the Harp what ever acts Our auncestours have seene Shee sings how BRITANNY from all The world divided was When Nereus with victorious Sea Through cloven rocks did passe And why it was that Hercules When he arrived heere Upon our coast and tasted once The mudlesse TAMIS cleere Did Neptun's sonne high Albion Vanquish in bloudy fight And with an haile-like storme of stones Kild him in field out-right And when Vlysses hither came What Altars sacred were By him How Brute with Corinae His trusty friend and fere Went foorth into the Western parts And how that Caesar he When he had sought and found turn'd back With feare from Britannie And after some few verses interposed This said then Tame and Isis both In love and name both one Hight Tamisis more joy's therein And hastning to be gone Ariseth up and leaping out With hastfull hot desire Advanceth forth his streame and seekes The Ocean main his sire From Dorchester Tamis goeth to Benson in old time Bensingston which Marian calleth Villam Regiam that is The Kings towne and reporteth That Ceaulin tooke it from the Britans in the yeere of our Lord 572. and that the West-Saxons kept the possession of it 200. yeeres after For then Offa the King of Mercians thinking it would be for his commoditie and honor both that they should have nothing on this side the river wonne it and subjected it to him But at this day it goeth for a village onely and hath a house of the Kings hard by sometime a faire place but now running exceedingly to ruine as being not very wholsome by reason of the foggy aire and mists arising from a standing water adjoyning This house of certaine Elmes called Ewelme but commonly New-Elme was built by William de la pole Duke of Suffolke who having taken to Wife Alice the onely daughter of Thomas Chaucer had by her faire lands heereabout as elsewhere and beside this house he erected also a faire Church wherein the said Alice lieth buried and a proper Hospitall But Iohn Earle of Lincolne his Grand child who by King Richard the Third had beene declared heire apparent to the Crowne overthrew in some sort the happie estate of this Family For whiles he plotted and projected seditiously to rebell against King Henry the seventh he was attainted and slaine in the battell at Stoke and Edmund his brother being for like cause attainted the possessions became Câ—owne-land Then King Henrie the Eighth made this house an Honour by laying unto it certaine Manours and Wallingford among others which before had a long time belonged unto the Dukes of Cornewall The Tamis from hence having fetched a great compasse about windeth in manner backe againe into himselfe enclosing within it the Hundred of Henley mounting high with Hills and beset with thicke Woods which some doe thinke the ANCALITES that yeelded themselves unto Caesars protection did inhabite Here is â—ix-brâ—nd and Stonor ancient Possessions of the Families of Stonores who since the time of King Edward the Third when Sir Iohn Stonore was chiefe Justice in the Common-pleas flourished with great alliance and faire revenues untill they were transferred by an Heire generall to Sir Adrian Fortescue unhappily attainted whose daughter Heire to her mother was married to the first Baron Wenâ—worth Next neighbour hereunto is Pus-hull which the Family of D'oily held by yeelding yeerely to the King a Table-cloth of three shillings price or three shillings for all service Under this Southward standeth Greies Rotherfield a house which in times past Walter Grey the Archbishop of Yorke gave freely unto William Grey his Nephew the Inheritance whereof by the Baron of D'Eincourt was devolved upon the Lovels Now it is the dwelling house of Sir William Knolles Treasurer of the Kings House whom Iames our King for his faithfull service performed unto Queene Elizabeth and to be performed unto himselfe advanced to the honourable title of Baron Knolles of Rotherfield Nere unto it Henley upon Tamis in old time called Hanleganz sheweth it selfe in the very confines of the shires The Inhabitants whereof be for the most part Watermen who make their chiefest gaine by carrying downe in their Barges wood and Corne to London neither can it make report of any greater antiquity than that in times past the Molinies were Lords thereof from whom by the Hungerfords who procured unto the towne of King Henry the Sixth the liberty of holding two faires it came by right of Inheritance unto the honourable house of the Hastings And where now the Tamis hath a wooden Bridge over it they say in times past there stood one of stone arched But whether this Bridge were here that Dio writeth the Romans passed over when they pursued the Britans along this tract who below had swom over the river hard it is for a man to say From Henley the Chiltern-bils hold on with a continued ridge running Northward and divide this Country from Buckinghamshire at the foote whereof stand many small townes among which these two are of greatest note Watlington a little mercate towne belonging sometime to Robert D' Oily and Shirburne a prety Castle of the Quatremans in times past but now the habitation of the Chamberlans descended out of the house of the Earles of Tankervill who having beene long agoe Chamberlains of Normandy their Posterity relinquishing that old name of Tankervills became surnamed Chamberlans of the Office which their ancestours bare To omit Edgar Algar and other English Saxons officiall Earles of Oxford Since after the Conquest the title of
furnace Now I should easily bee perswaded that such a sound may come of the sea water closely getting into the Rocke were it not the same continued as well when the sea ebbeth at a low water when the shore is bare as it doth at an high water when it is full sea Not unlike to this was the place which Clemens Alexandrinus maketh mention of in the seventh Booke of his Stromata in these words They that have written Histories doe say that in the Isle of Britaine there is a certaine hole or Cave under the bottome of an hill and on the toppe thereof a gaping chaune or chinck And whensoever the winde is gathered into that hole and tossed to and fro in the wombe or concavity thereof there is heard above a sound of Cymbals For the winde driven backe gives the stronger sound Beyond these Islands the Shire runneth directly Westward and giveth entrance and passage to one River upon which more within the Land standeth Cowbridge the Britans of the Stone-bridge call it Pont-van a Merdare Towne and the second of those three which Fitz Haimon the Conquerour kept for himselfe Now whereas Antonine the Emperour in this very Coast at the same distance from ISCA placed BOVIUM which also is corruptly read BOMIUM my conjecture liked me so well that I have beene of opinion this Towne was the said BOVIUM but seeing that three miles from hence there standeth Bovirion which fitly accordeth in sound with Bovium so love mee trueth I dare not seeke for BOVIUM elsewhere And that it is no strange and new thing that places should bee fitted with names from Kine and Oxen I report me to Bosphorus in Thracia Bovianum in Samnium and Bauli in Italie as it were Boalia if we may beleeve Symmachus But let this one argument serve for all fifteene miles from BOVIUM hath Antonine placed even with a Latine name the Towne NIDUM which although our Antiquaries have beene this great while a hunting after in vaine yet at the very same distance there sheweth it selfe Neath a Towne very well knowne retaining still the old name in manner whole and sound and heere at Laâ—twit that is The Church of Iltut that joyneth close thereto are seene the foundations of many houses for it had divers Streets in old time A little from hence in the very bout well neere of the shore standeth Saint Donats Castle a faire Habitation of the ancient and notable Family of the Stradlings neere unto which were very lately digged up antique peeces of Romane money but those especially of the thirty Tyrants yea and some of Aemilianus and Marius which are seldome found The River Ogmor somewhat higher maketh himselfe way into the Sea falling downe from the mountaines by Coitie which belonged sometimes to the Turbevills afterwards to the Gamages and now to Sir Robert Sidney Vicount Lisle in right of his wife also by Ogmor Castle which came from the Family of London to the Dutchy of Lancaster Some few miles from hence there is a Well at Newton as Sir John Stradling a very learned Knight hath signified unto me a little Towne on the banke of the River Ogmor Westward an hundred paces well neere from Severn side in a sandy plaine The water thereof is none of the cleerest yet pure enough and good for use It never springeth and walmeth up to the brinke but by certaine staires folke goe downe into the Well At any flowing of the Sea in Summer time you shall hardly get up a dish full of water Whereas if you come anon when it ebbeth you may well lade up water with a good bigge bucket or paile The like instability remaineth also in Winter time saving that it is nothing so evident by reason of the Veines of water comming in from above by showres and otherwise Many of the Inhabitants thereabout men of good credite constantly avouched thus much unto me But I distrusting Fame that oftentime doth but prate went my selfe of late once or twice to the said Well For even then had I great desire to write thus much unto you When I was first come unto the place and had stayed the third part of an houre viewing and considering every thing while Severn surged and rose high and no body came thither to draw the water was fallen about three inches I goe my waies And not long after when I was returned againe I finde it to be risen a foote higher The compasse of this Well beneath within the walles is almost sixe foote Concerning which my Muse also enditeth this Dittie Te Nova-Villa fremens odioso murmure Nympha Inclamat Sabrina Soloque inimica propinquo Evomit infestas ructu violenter arenas Damna pari sentit vitinia sorte sedilla Fonticulum causata tuum Quem virgo legendo Littus ad amplexus vocitat latet ille vocatus Antro luctatur contra Namque astus utrique est Continuo motu refluus tamen ordine dispar Nympha fluit propiùs Fons defluit Illa recedit Isteredit Sic livor inest pugna perennis With troublous noise and roaring loud the Severn Nymph doth cry New-towne on thee and bearing spite unto the ground thereby Casts up and sends with violence maine drifts of hurtfull sand The neighbour parts feele equall losse by this her heavie hand But on thy little Well she laies the weight which she would woo And faine embrace as Virgin she along the shore doth goe Call'd though he be he lurkes in den and striveth hard againe For ebbe and flow continually by tides they keepe both twaine Yet diversly for as the Nymph doth rise the Spring doth fall Goe she backe he comes on in spite and fight continuall The like Fountaine Polybius reporteth to bee at Cadyz and this reason hee giveth thereof namely that the winde or aire when it is deprived of his wonted issues returneth within forth and so by shutting and stopping up the passages and veines of the Spring keepeth in the waters and contrariwise when the surface thereof is voide and empty of water the veines of the source or Spring are unstopped and set free and so the water then boileth up in great abundance From hence coasting along the shore you come within the sight of Kinefeage the Castle in old time of Fitz-Haimon himselfe also of Margan hard by the sea side sometime an Abbay founded by William Earle of Glocester but now the Habitation of the worshipfull Family of the Maunsells Knights Neere unto this Margan in the very toppe of an Hill called Mynyd Margan there is erected of exceeding hard grit a Monument or grave-stone foure foote long and one foote broad with an Inscription which whosoever shall happen to reade the ignorant common people dwelling thereabout give it out upon a credulous errour that hee shall bee sure to dye within a little while after Let the Reader therefore looke to himselfe if any dare reade it for let him assure himselfe that hee shall for
Botereaux * De Sancto Laudâ— Stow. Greenvils * Rous. Stratton The river Tamar * Canonâ—corum Launston Salt-Esse Saint Vrsula and 11000. Virgins Earles of Cornwall Robert de Monte. 1175. * Haeresinventus * â—ande d' Or d' Azur ala bordeure de Gueules Memoriales de Aquitaine Dukes of Cornwall Orig. 35. H. 6. Sand making grounds fruitfull Tavistoke The Charter of the foundation Lectures of the Saxon tongue Plimmouth 13. Henry 4. * De valle tarta * Valle tortis â—ive de valle torta * Custodias * Praetor Gogmagog Francis Drake * Narrow passage * Rous. The first tiâ— that Priests were forbidden marriagâ— Stert Caudâ— in Dutch a Taile Totnes * Non geldâ— * Cantlow Lord Zoâ— called usuâ— Dertmouth Stoke Fleming Briew See Sommersetshire Carie of Cockington Hacombe The familie of the Carews Danes when they first entred Britaine * The River Ex. Plinie Anticke stones Tiverton Poltimore * Ex. * Caer Leon or Vske in Monmouth shire Excester * Welchmen Caer what it signifieth Cornel. Nepos * Excester William Malmesbury * Domesday Weare Ch. 24. Ed. 3 Dukes of Eâ—cester See the Earâ—â— of Dorset Philip Comiâ—â—us cap. 50. Marquesse of Excester 1605. Pouderham * Redvers or Rivers Holcombe Burnet Exmouth Otterey Honnyton Moridunum Wiscomb See in Sommerset shire Axminster The Register of Newenham Hercules his Promontory Saint Nectan William of Malmesbury Dinham Whether ever Hercules came into Britaine * Expounders of Morall Tales * Terra di Laviro * Riviera di Genoa Poderidge Bediford Iohn Hooker of the Bishops of Excester Berstable * Se aequor refundit in â—quor John Jewell Thomas Harding Ralege Kinvith The Danes Banner Comb what iâ— signifieth Nicotius Bampton Paganelli or Painels * Fulconem Earles of Dâ—â—vonshire Register of Ford Abbey * Redvers or Rivers * Called Isâ—â—bella de Fortibus * Called Isâ—â—bella de Fortibus Claus. 9. Edw. tertii M. 35. â—â— dorso 9. Edward the Fourth 1603. Dwr what iâ— signifieth Setta what iâ— is Lime Carmouth Burtport Chesill Portland Historie of Winchester Weymouth A Stepdames hatred that is her husbands sonne * Good health Morton Strangwaies Bindon Newborougâ—â— Grand Serjeantie Middleton Forrest of White-hartâ— White hart silver Shirburne Chiston Shaftsbury * Domesday The prophecy of Aquila Barons Fit Payne Baron Briâ—â—â—â— Barons Poâ—â—nings Blandfordâ— Vindogladiâ— Winburn Burne in the Saxon tongue what it signifieth Annales of the English-Saxons * Or Painims Paganorum Badbury Kingston Lacy. Canford Coperose or Vitriol Alum Tho. Walsingham 1317. Cranburne Vicount Cranborne 1604. Filioll Earles and Marquesses of Dorset The life of Osmund manuscript See the Duk of Somerset * In Normandie 1553. Belgae from the Belgae in Gaule Low-countries The Netheâ— Lands Belgae whenc they were named * Or weather Denshire Dunster Castle The Familie of the Mohuns or Moions Commons Ischalis Ivelcester commonly Ilchester * Or Copper Mechelney The River Pedred Pedderton Montacute in Domesday booke Montaguâ— Annales of Glaston * Drogo Iuvenis Lords Montacute Odcombe * â—riceto Briewers Barons Register of Dunkeswell Gornays Newtons * Parret Faramuse of Bolen Fienes Aulre Wellington * Hides Lediard Iohn Popham Taunton * Penaltie fo peace-breaking Pacis Infractio Mallet Pointzes Beauchamps Barons * Forts Vicount Beauchamp Lovell Lupellus in Latin Castle Cary. Lord Saint Maure Earles of bridge-Bridge-water Vzella Selwood Bruiton William Malmesbury of Glastenburies antiquity See Romans in Britanie Iâ— confirm Henric. 2. These verses with some little change are found in the fourth booke of Venantius Fortunatus his Poems in the praise partly of the Church in Paris and partly of Nants Arthur the warlike Woâ—thy * Alexandrum Magnum The Pyramides of Glastenburie * Episcopus Edgar the Peaceable Godney Moore Mendip-hils Ochy hole Strabo See before among the Coines Cangi a people of Britaine Bonvill 1. Edward 4. Harpetre Welles Stephâ—n urbibus and Barletius Manentium XI Combes * Kirton 905. Historie of Bathe See in the Decretals Ne sede vacante aliquid innovetur 1193. Fareley Philips Norton Selwood Monney de la Mare Bathe Aqua Soâ—iâ— Hot Waters The Temple of Minerva Caer Palladur Britans addicted to Magicke Earles of Bathe Inquisit 31. Henrie 8. * Adjutric * Piae * Foelicis * Hic situs * Cobortis Equitum * Decurioni * Glevi that is Of Glocester Diiâ— Manibus that is To the dead ghost * Mâ—â—jâ—s that is Moneths * D. Dies that is Daies * Filia Charissâ—maefecerunt Percepier Bristow Barons de Barkley Earles and Dukes of Somerset Patents Anno primo Henric. tertii * De malo lacu * De Comitatu Earle Apostlicall See Earles o Dorset The river Isiâ— or Ouze Wansdike Dikes of the Marches Lediard Saint Iohn Wood-toun or Wotton Basset Breden Forrest * Prince of the bloud Malmesbury Ingleborne Maidulph the Scot. Aldeme William Malmesbury Conucell at Aix Dantesey Baron Danvers Calne A Synode as touching the single life of Priests Chippinham Cyppan what it is Cosham Castlecombe Dunstavile * Pernell Leckham Lacocke Saint Amand Barons The Vies Devizes Edindon * Bon-hommes Trubridge Bradford Anno 652. Long-Leat Maiden Bradley Dever-rill Verlucio Werminster Sarisburie Plaines Lord Hungerford of Heitesburie Yanesburie Wardour Castle Baron Arundell Aquaticâ—m 1595. Count Imperiall L. Hach Hindon Wilton Ellandunum Alan the river Sorbiodunum What Dunum signifieth among the Britaines and Gaules * Or for money weighed out and told * Of Bloys New Sarisburie 29. Edw. 3. Tearm Hillarii Combat for the Castle of Sarum or Shirburn as some will have it Earles of Salisburie Historie of Lacock Abbey Walsingham pag. 74. Pat. 2. Henr. 6. 1461. This name himselfe poetically devised Constitutions of Clarinders An ancient booke Stone-henge Made Stones * Puzzote * Magician Mathematicâ— * Scythia * Palamediâ— aves Ambresbury Ambrosius Aurelianus The Emperours before Leporarium Wolshal Estermie or Sturmy Savernac Forrest Kenet River Barrowes and Burrows Tombes In his Geomeotrie * 198. * Aibury Rockley * Famis rivulus * Kenet Cunetio a towne Marleborow * Kenet * Or nick-râ—â—med Iohn Lack-land The blacke Prince as they say Ramesburie William Malmesburie of Bishops Littlecot * Pro summario Haply a Sumpter horse Ore what it is Earles of Wilshire Queene Elizabeth See Basing in Hant-shire New forres Elogium Sanctuaries Exod. 21. Iosephus Antiquita uâ— lib. 4. Hurst Castle South-Anton Tibury some say for Titusbury Wallop Brige Rumsey Redbridge * Regesti Cynacium British dogs A Gasehound Agasaeus a British hounâ— See before in the Emperours The round Table Torneaments Dei pâ—osophist lib. 4. Bishops of Winchester William Malmesburie Hide Abbey Wickham Colledge William Wickham Saint Mary Abbey * Matildis Mawde wife to King Henry the first Earles of Winchester Pr. p. Pat. Anno 12. E. 4. Hamble Solente frith * Roche Portsey Portus Magnus Portesmouth * Roch. British salt Hexameron lib. 5. cap. 11. Meanvari Bede lib. 4. cap. 13. Warnford Adae hic Portu benedicat
alwayes called in plaine words burg-Burg-water that is Walters burgh or Burgh-walter and as we may very probably conjecture of that Walter de Duaco or Doway who served under William Conqueror in his wars and received at his hands many faire mannors in this shire Neither carrieth it any other name in that grant or donation whereby Fulke Paynes Lord of Bampton passed the possession of the place over unto William Briwer to curry favour with him being so great a man and so gracious a favourite with King Richard the First This Williams sonne and bearing his name bettered this haven having obtained licence of King Iohn to fortifie a Castle built heere a Fortresse which now time hath wrought her will of and began a bridg which one Strivet a gentleman of Cornwall with infinite cost finished founded also the Hospitall of S. Iohn heere and Dunkeswell Abbay But when this William Briwer the younger left this life without issue in the partition of his heritage it fell to Margaret his sister in right of whose daughter that she had by William De la fort it came to the house of Cadurci or Chaworths and from it hereditarily to the Dukes of Lancaster as some lands heereabout by an other sister came to Breos and so by Cantalupe to Lord Zauch But the greatest honor that this place had was by the title of an Earldome that King Henrie the Eight adorned it withall what time as he created Henrie Doubeney Earle of Bridge-water whose sister Cecilie was married unto Iohn Bourchier the first Earle of Bath out of that house Beneath this some few miles off Parret voideth it selfe into the Severne sea at a wide mouth which as we said Ptolomee called Vzella aestuarium and some even at this day Evelmouth but the old English-Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 at which place as Marianus mine author writeth Ealstan Bishop of Shirburne about the yeere of Salvation 845. discomfited the Danish forces as they were stragling abroad At the same mouth where we saw Honispell an ancient Mannour of the Coganes men of great fame in the conquest of Ireland there meeteth it another river called of some Brius which ariseth out of that great and wide wood in the East-side of this shire which the Britans named Cort Maur the Saxons Selwood that is by Asserius interpretation The great wood but now not so great This river first visiteth Bruiton to which he leaveth his name a place memorable for that the Mohuns there entombed who built a religious house of the Fitz-Iames runneth a long way by small villages and encreased with some other brooks it watereth goodly grounds untill it meete with softer soile then and there it maketh certaine marshes and meres and when the waters rise environeth a large plot of ground as an Isle so called of old time in the British tongue the Isle of Aualon of Appulis afterwards named Inis Witrin that is The Glassy Isle like as in the Saxon Idiome the same sense 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and in Latin Gloscania Of which a Poet of good antiquity writeth thus Insula pomorum quae fortunata vocatur Ex re nomen habet quia per se singula profert Non opus est illi sâ—lcantibus arva colonis Omnis abest cultus nisi quem natura ministrat Vltró foecundas segetes producit herbas Nataque poma suis praetonso germine sylvis The Apple-Isle and Fortunate folke of the thing so call For of it selfe it bringeth forth corne Forage fruit and all There is no need of country clowns to plough and till the fields Nor seene is any husbandry but that which nature yeelds Of the owne accord there commeth up corne grasse and herbs good store Whole woods there be that apples beare if they be prun'd before In this Isle under a great hill rising in great height with a tower theron which they call the Tor flourished the famous Abbay of Glastenbury the beginning whereof is very ancient setched even from that Ioseph of Arimathaea who enterred the bodie of Iesus Christ and whom Philip the Apostle of the Gaules sent into Britaine for to preach Christ. For thus much both the most ancient records and monuments of this Monasterie testifie and also Patrick the Irish Apostle who lived there a Monke thirtie yeeres in an Epistle of his hath left to memorie Whereupon this place was by our Ancestors named The first land of God The first land of Saints in England The beginning and fountaine of all religion in England The tombe of Saints The mother of Saints The Church founded and built by the Lords Disciples Neither is there any cause why we should much doubt thereof sithence I have shewed before that the beames of Christian religion in the very infancie of the primitive Church were spred and shined upon this Iland yea and Freculphus Lexoviensis hath written that the said Philip conducted barbarous nations neere unto darknesse and bordering just upon the Ocean to the light of knowledge and port of faith But to our Monasterie and that out of Malmesburie his booke touching this matter When that old Cell or litle chappell which Ioseph had built by continuance of time was in the end decaied Devi Bishop of Saint Davids erected a new one in the same place which also in time falling to ruine twelve men comming out of the North part of Britaine repaired it and lastly King Ina who founded a schoole in Rome for the training up and instruction of English youth to the maintenance thereof as also for almes to be distributed at Rome had laid an imposition of Peter-pence upon every house thorowout his realme having demolished it built there a very faire and stately Church to Christ Peter and Paul and under the very highest coping thereof round about caused to bee written these verses Syderei montes speciosa cacumina Sion A Libano geminae flore comante cedri Caelorum portae lati duo lumina mundi Ore tonat Paulus fulgurat arce Petrus Inter Apostolicas radianti luce coronas Doctior hic monitis celsior ille gradu Corda per hunc hominum reserantur astra per illum Quos docet iste stylo suscipit ille polo. Pandit iter coeli hic dogmate clavibus alter Est via cui Paulus janua fida Petrus Hic Petra firma manens ille Architectus habetur Surgit in hijs templum quo placet ara Deo Anglia plaude lubens mittit tibi Roma salutem Fulgor Apostolicus Glasconiam irradiat A facie hostili duo propugnacula surgunt Quod fidei turres urbs caput orbis habet Haec pius egregio Rex Ina refertus amore Dona suo populo non moritura dedit Totus in affectu divae pietatis inhaereus Ecclesiaeque juges amplificavit opes Melchi-sedech noster meritó Rex atque Sacerdos Complevit verae religionis opus Publica jura regens celsa palatia servans Vnica Pontificum gloria norma
and worth the noting it is there is a vaine of potters earth highly commended and therefore the dearer sold for the making of those crucibles and small vessels which Gold-smiths use in melting their gold Nor farre from hence the cleare rivelet Wandle in Latin Vandalis so full of the best Trouts issueth forth from his head neare Cashalton and Wodcot where by a tuft of trees upon an hill-top there are to bee seene manifest signes of a pretty towne and diverse wels built of flint stones Concerning the populousnesse and wealth whereof the neighbour Inhabitants report very much This in my conceit was that Citie which Ptolomee called NOIOMAGVS and the Emperour Antonine NOVIOMAGVS Neither neede wee to seeke from else where proofe heereof but from the correspondencie of distance For as the old Itinerary noteth it is ten miles from London and twenty eight from Vagmiacj now Maidston Many a mile therefore went they out of the way that placed Noviomagus either at Buckingham or at Guildford This was a principall Citie of the REGNI not knowne to Marinus Tyrius a most ancient Geographer whom Ptolomee taking upon him to censure taxeth for that he had set NOVIOMAGVS of Britaine by Climate more North and by account of miles more South than London Wandle while it is yet small receiveth his first increase by a rill springing at Croidon in times past called Cradiden which standeth under the hils is very well known as well for the house of the Archbishops of Canterbury unto whom it hath belonged now this long time as for Char-coles which the townesmen make good chaffer of The inhabitants report that in old time there stood an house of the Kings in the West part of the towne neere unto Haling where the husbandmen dig up otherwhiles rubble stone which house the Archbishops having received it by gift from the King translated unto their owne neerer the river And neere unto this the right reverend father in God D. Iohn Whitgift Archbishop of Canterbury of most praise worthy Memory in his pious affection founded and endowed with living a very faire Hospitall for the reliefe of poore people and a schoole for the furtherance of learning As for that sudden swelling water or Bourne which the common people report to breake forth heere out of the ground presaging I wote not how either dearth of corne or the pestilence may seeme not worthy once the naming and yet the events sometime ensuing hath procured it credit Neere unto this place stands Beddington wherein is to be seene a very faire house beautified with a delightfull shew of right pleasant gardens and orchards by Sir Francis Carew Knight For the ancient seat it is of the Carews who being descended from the Carews of Moulesford of whom also are come the Carews of Devonshire have for a long time flourished in this country but especially since Sir Iames Carew matched in marriage with the daughter and one of the coheires of the Baron Hoo and Hastings To digresse a little from the river Eastward from Croidon standeth Addington now the habitation of Sir Oliff Leigh wherby is to be seene the ruble of a Castle of Sir Robert Agvilon and from him of the Lords Bardolph who held certaine lands here in fee by Serianty to find in the Kings kitchin at the Coronation one to make a dainty dish which they called Mapigernoun and Dilgerunt What that was I leave to the skilfull in ancient Cookerie and returne to the river Wandle increased with Croidon water passing by Morden divideth it selfe to water Merton in the old English tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 situate in a most fruitfull soile A towne made famous in times past by the death of Kinulph King of the West Saxons who was by a Clito that is a Prince of the bloud slaine here in a small cottage of an harlot upon whom hee was enamoured and Clito himself by K. Kinulphs followers immediately stabbed suffered condigne punishment for his disloyall treachery Now it sheweth onely the ruines of a Monastery that K. Henry the First founded for blacke Chanons by the procurement of Gilbert High Sheriffe of Surry in the yeare 1127. which was famous for the Statute of Merton enacted here in the 21. of King Henrie the Third and also for Water de Merton founder of Merton Colledge in Oxford borne and bred heere Above Merton farther from the river is seated Wibandune now commonly Wimbledon where when over much prosperitie had hatched civill broiles among the English Saxons after the British warres were now ceased Ethelbert King of Kent struck up the first Alarme of civill warre against his owne country men but Ceaulin King of the West Saxons discomfited him in this place with a mightie great slaughter and losse of his men having slaine his principall leaders Oslan and Kneben of whom peradventure that entrenched rampier or fort which wee have heere seene of a round forme is called Bensbury for But now the greatest ornament of this place is that goodly house so beautifull for building and so delectable for faire prospect and right pleasant gardens which Sir Thomas Cecill Knight sonne to that most prudent Counsellour of State Lord Burleygh built in the yeare 1588. when the Spanish Armado made saile upon the coast of England Wandle now after a few miles entreth the Tamis when it hath given name to Wandlesworth betweene Putney the native soile of Thomas Cromwell one of the flowting-stocks of fortune and Batersey sometimes in the Saxon tongue called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and in latine Patricii Insula that is Patrickes Isle and which now we seeke an house of the Kings termed Kennington whereunto the Kings of England in old time were wont to retire themselves but now finde wee neither the name nor the rammell thereof Then is there Lambith or Lomehith that is to say a Lomy or clayish rode or hith famous in former times for the death of Canutus the Hardie King of England who there amid his cups yielded up his vitall breath For hee beeing given wholly to banqueting and feasting caused royall dinners foure times every day as Henry of Huntingdon reporteth to be served up for all his court choosing rather to have his invited guests to send away whole dishes untouched than other commers unbidden to call for more viands to be upon his table But now this place is of the greater name and more frequented by reason of the Archbishop of Canterburie his palace For Baldwine Archbishop of Canterbury about the yeare of Christ 1183. having made an exchange with the Bishop of Rochester purchased a manour in this place wherein hee began to build a palace for himselfe and his successours which they by little and little encreased But when they went about to erect a collegiat Church heere also good GOD what posting was there to Rome with complaints and appeales from the Monkes of Canterburie how many fiery thunderbolts
said Richard and by impious cruell meanes usurped the kingdome that hee might by his benefits oblige unto him the house of the Howards created in one and the same day Iohn Lord Howard Duke of Norfolke as next cosin and heire to the Mowbraies and his sonne Thomas Earle of Surrie in whose of-spring this honour hath ever since beene resplendent and so continueth at this day This County hath in it Parish Churches 140. SVSSEX VNder Suth-rey toward the South lieth stretched out in a great length Suth-sex which also in times past the Regni inhabited in the Saxon tongue called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 at this day Sussex which is as much to say as the Region of the South Saxons a word compounded of the site thereof Southward and of the Saxons who in their Heptarchie placed here the second kingdome It lieth upon the British Ocean all Southward with a streight shore as it were farre more in length than bredth Howbeit it hath few harbours by reason that the sea is dangerous for shelves and therefore rough and troublous the shore also it selfe full of rocks and the South-west wind doth tyrannize thereon casting up beach infinitely The sea coast of this countrie hath greene hils on it mounting to a greater height called the Downes which because they stand upon a fat chalke or kinde of marle yeeldeth corne aboundantly The middle tract garnished with medowes pastures corne-fields and groves maketh a very lovely shew The hithermore and Northern side thereof is shaded most pleasantly with woods like as in times past the whole country throughout which by reason of the woods was hardly passable For the wood Andradswald in the British language Coid Andred taking the name of Anderida the City next adjoyning tooke up in this quarter a hundred and twentie miles in length and thirtie in bredth memorable for the death of Sigebert King of West Saxons who being deposed from his royall throne was in this place stabbed by a Swineheard and so died Many pretty rivers it hath but such as springing out of the North-side of the shire forthwith take their course to the Ocean and therefore not able to beare any vessell of burden Full of iron mines it is in sundry places where for the making and fining whereof there bee furnaces on every side and a huge deale of wood is yearely spent to which purpose divers brookes in many places are brought to runne in one channell and sundry medowes turned into pooles and waters that they might bee of power sufficient to drive hammer milles which beating upon the iron resound all over the places adjoyning And yet the iron here wrought is not in every place of like goodnesse but generally more brittle than is the Spanish iron whether it be by the nature or tincture and temper thereof Howbeit commodious enough to the iron Maisters who cast much great ordnance thereof and other things to their no small gaine Now whether it bee as gainefull and profitable to the common-wealth may bee doubted but the age ensuing will bee better able to tell you Neither want here glasse-houses but the Glasse there made by reason of the matter or making I wot not whether is likewise nothing so pure and cleare and therefore used of the common sort onely SVSSEXIA Siue Southsex olim pars REGNORVM Selsey before said is somewhat lower in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is to say The Isle of Sea calves for these in our language wee call Scales which alwaies seeke to Islands and to the shore for to bring forth their young but now it is most famous for good cockles and full Lobsters A place as Beda saith compassed round about with the Sea but onely in the West side where it hath an entrie into it by land as broad as a slings cast It was reckoned by Survey taken to containe fourscore and seven Hides of Land when Edilwalch King of this Province gave it to Wilfride Bishop of Yorke whiles hee was in exile who first preached Christ unto this people and as he writeth not only by baptisme saved from thraldome under the divell two hundred and fiftie bond-men but also by giving freedome delivered them from the yoke of bondage under man Afterwards K. Cedwalla who vanquished Edilwalch founded here a Minster and beautified it with an Episcopall See which by Stigand the two and twentieth Bishop was translated to Chichester where it now flourisheth and doth acknowledge Cedwalla to bee the founder In this Isle remaineth onely the dead carkasse as it were of that ancient little citie wherein those Bishops sat and the same hidden quite with water at everie full sea but at a low water evident and plaine to be seene Then maketh the shore way for a river which out of Saint Leonards Forrest runneth downe first by Amberley where William Read Bishop of Chichester in the raigne of Edward the third built a castle for his successours and so from thence by Arundell seated on the hanging of an hill a place greater in name than deede and yet is not that name of great antiquitie for before Aelfreds dayes who bequeathed it by testament to Anthelme his brothers sonne I have not read it so much as once named Unlesse perhaps I should thinke that Portus Adurni is corruptly so called by transposition of letters for Portus Arundi The reason of this name is fetched neither from that fabulous horse of Sir Beavois of Southampton nor of Charudum a promontorie in Denmarke as Goropius Becanus hath dreamed but of the valley or dale which lieth upon the river Arun in case Arun bee the name of the river as some have delivered who thereupon named it in Latine Aruntina vallis that is Arundale But all the fame it hath is of the Castle that flourished under the Saxon Empire and which as we read presently upon the comming in of the Normans Roger Montgomerie repaired who thereupon was 〈◊〉 Earle of Arundell For a stately place it is both by naturall situation and also by mans hand verie strong But his sonne Robert de Belismo who succeeded his brother Hugh being by King Henrie the First proscribed lost that and all his other dignitie For when he had perfidiously raised warre against the King he chose this Castle for his surest hold whiles the warre lasted and fortified the place with many munitions but spedde no better than traitours use to doe For the Kings forces environing it everie way at the last wonne it Whenas Robert now had forfeited his estate and was banished the King gave this castle and all his Lands besides unto * Adeliza daughter to Godfrey Barbatus of Lovaine Duke of Loraine and Brabant for her Dowrie whom he tooke to be his second wife In whose commendation a certaine English man in that unlearned age wrote these not unlearned verses Anglorum Reginatuos Adeliza decores Ipsa referre parans Musa stupore riget Quid Diadema tibi
Surrey Iohn Holland Earle of Huntingdon late Duke of Excester Iohn Montacute Earle of Salisbury Thomas de Spenser Earle of Glocester and others who being by him dispoiled of their honors and maligning his usurpation conspired to take away his life and here by the townesmen intercepted were some of them slaine outright and others beheaded The river Churne when it hath left Circester behinde him six miles neere to Dounamveny an ancient seate of the Hungerfords joyneth with Isis. For ISIS commonly called Ouse that it might bee by originall of Glocester-shire hath his head there and with lively springs floweth out of the South border of this shire nere unto Torleton an upland Village not farre from that famous Port-way called the Fosse This is that Isis which afterwards entertaineth Tame and by a compound word is called Tamisis Soveraigne as it were of all the Britain Rivers in Britaine of which a man may well and truely say as ancient Writers did of Euphrates in the East part of the World that it doth both Sow and Water the best part of Britaine The poeticall description of whose Source or first head I have heere put downe out of a Poem entituled The Marriage of Tame and Isis which whether you admit or omit it skilleth but little Lanigeros quà lata greges Cotswaldia pascit Crescit in colles faciles visura Dobunos Haud procul à Fossa longo spelunca recessu Cernitur abrupti surgente crepidine clivi Cujus inauratis resplendent limina tophis Atria tegit ebur tectúmque Gagate Britanno Emicat alterno solidantur pumice postes Materiam sed vincit opus cedúntque labori Artifici tophus pumex ebur atque Gagates Pingitur hinc vitrei moder atrix Cynthia regni Passibus obliquis volventia sydera lustrans Oceano tellus conjuncta marita marito Illinc caelatur fraternáque flumina Ganges Nilus Amazonius tractúsque binominis Istri Vicini Rheni sed his intermicat auro Vellere Phrixaeâ— dives redimitáque spicis Clara triumphatis erecta BRITANNIA Gallis c. Vndoso hîc solio residet regnator aquarum ISIS fluminea qui majestate verendus Caeruleo gremio â—esupinat prodigus urnam Intonsos crines iâ—vis arundine cinctus Cornua cana liquâ—nt fluitantia lumina lymphis Dispergunt lucem propexa in pectore barba Tota madet toto distillant corpore guttae Et salientis aquae prorumpunt undique venae Pisciculi liquidis penetralibus undique ludunt Plurimus cygnus niveis argenteus alis Pervolitat circum c. Where Cotswald spred abroad doth lie and feed faire flocks of sheepe And Dobunes for to see in downes ariseth nothing steepe Within a nouke along not much the Fosse and it betweene Just at the rising of a banke upright a Cave is seene Whereof the entry glistereth with soft stones richly guilt The Haull is seel'd with Ivory the roufe aloft ybuilt Of Geat the best that Britaine yeelds The pillers very strong With Pumish laid each other course are raised all along The stuffe full faire yet Art doth it surpasse and to the feate Of Artisan give place the gold stones Yv'ry and Geat Heere painted is the Moone that rules the Sea like Chrystall Glasse As she through rolling Signes above with traverse course doth passe And there againe enchaced are both land and Ocean wide Conjoyn'd as man and wife in one with Rivers great beside Like brethren all as Ganges rich strange Nilus Tanais Yea and the course of Ister large which double named is Of Rhene also a neighbour streame And heere bedight in gold Among them glitt'reth Britanny with riches manifold Of golden fleece a Coronet of Wheat-eares she doth weare And for her triumph over France her head aloft doth reare c. In waving Throne heere sits the King of waters all and some ISIS who in that Majestie which Rivers doth become All rev'rend from his watchet lap powr's forth his streame amaine With weed and reed his haires tuckt up that grow both long and plaine His hoary hornes distilling runne with water stand his eyes And shoot from them a lustre farre his kembed beard likewise Downe to the brest wet-through doth reach his body drops againe All over and on every side breakes out some water veine In secret watrish room 's within the little fishes play And many a silver Swan besides his white wings doth display And flutter round about c. As touching the Earles of Glocester some there be who have thrust upon us one William Fitz-Eustace for the first Earle who this was I have not yet found and I verily beleeve hee is yet unborne But that which I have found I will not conceale from the Reader About the comming in of the Normans wee reade that one Bithricke an English Saxon was Lord of Glocester whom Maud wife to William Conquerour upon a secret rankor and hatred conceived against him for his contempt of her beauty for Bithrick had before time refused to marry her troubled and molested most maliciously And when shee had at length cast him in Prison Robert Fitz-Haimon Lord of Corboile in Normandy was by the King endowed with his possessions who in a battaile having received a wound with the push of a pike upon the temples of his head had his wits crackt therewith and survived a good while after as a man bestraught and madde His daughter Mabil whom others name Sibill Robert the base sonne of King Henry the First by the intercession of his father obtained for his wife but not before he had made him Earle of Glocester This is hee who is called commonly by Writers The Consull of Glocester A man of an haughty valorous minde and undaunted heart as any one in that age and who being never dejected with any adversity wanne great praise for his fidelity and worthy exploits in the behalfe of his sister Maude the Empresse against Stephen then usurping the Crowne of England This honourable Title left he unto his son William who dejected with comfortlesse griefe when death had deprived him of his onely son and heire assured his estate with his eldest daughter to Iohn son to King Henry the Second with certaine provisoes for his other daughters Yet his three daughters brought this Earldome into as many families For Iohn when he had obtained the Kingdome repudiated her upon pretenses as well that she was barren as that they were within prohibited degrees of consanguinity and reserving the Castle of Bristow to himselfe after some time passed over his repudiated wife with the Honor of Glocester to Geffrey Mandevil son of Geffrey Fitz Peter Earle of Essex for 20000. markes who thus over-marrying himselfe was greatly impoverished and wounded in Tournament died soone after issuelesse and she being remarried to Hubert of Burgh died immediately Then K. Iohn upon an exchange granted the Earldome of Glocester to Almary Earle of Eureux son to the eldest daughter of the foresaid E.
he fetcheth almost a round compasse with a great winding reach taketh into him the River Lea at the east bound of this Countie when it hath collected his divided streame and cherished fruitfull Marish-medowes Upon which there standeth nothing in this side worth the speaking of For neither Aedelmton hath ought to shew but the name derived of Nobility nor Waltham unlesse it be the Crosse erected there for the funerall pompe of Queene Aeleonor Wife to King Edward the First whereof also it tooke name Onely Enfeld a house of the Kings is here to be seene built by Sir Thomas Lovel knight of the order of the Garter and one of King Henry the Seventh his Privy Counsell and Durance neighbour thereunto a house of the Wrothes of ancient name in this Countie To Enfeld-house Enfeld-chace is hard adjoyning a place much renowned for hunting the possession in times past of the Magnavils Earles of Essex afterwards of the Bohuns who succeeded them and now it belongeth to the Duchie of Lancaster since the time that Henry the Fourth King of England espoused one of the daughters and coheires of Humfrey Bohun Earle of Hereford and Essex of that surname And there are yet to be seene in the middest well nere of this Chase the rubbish and ruines of an old house which the vulgar sort saith was the dwelling place of the Magnavils Earles of Essex As for the title of Midlesex the Kings of England have vouchsafed it to none neither Duke Marquis Earle or Baron In this County without the City of London are reckoned Parishes much about 73. Within the City Liberties and Suburbes 121. ESSEXIA COMITATVS QVEM olim TRINOBANTES tenuerunt Continens in se opida marcatoria xx Pagos et Villas ccccxiiii vna Cunt singulis hundredis et flu minibus in â—odem ESSEX THE other part of the Trinobantes toward the East called in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in the Norman language Exssesa of the situation toward the East and the Saxons which inhabited it and commonly Essex is a Country large in compasse fruitfull full of Woods plentifull of Saffron and very wealthy encircled as it were on the one side with the maine Sea on the other with fishfull Rivers which also doe affoord their peculiar commodities in great abundance On the North side the River Stour divideth it from Suffolke on the East the Ocean windeth it selfe into it On the South part the Tamis being now growne great secludeth it from Kent like as in the West part the little River Ley from Midlesex and Stort or Stour the lesse which runneth into it from Hertfordshire In describing of this Country according to my methode begunne first I will speake of the memorable places by Ley and the Tamis afterwards of those that bee further within and upon the Sea-coast By Ley in the English Saxon Tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 there stretcheth out a great way in length and breadth a Forest serving for game stored very full with Deere that for their bignesse and fatnesse withall have the name above all other In times past called it was by way of excellency Foresta de Essex now Waltham Forest of the towne Waltham in the Saxons speech 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 A wilde or wooddy habitation This standeth upon Ley where by dividing his Chanell hee maketh divers Eights or Islands and is not of any great Antiquity to make boast of For when the Kingdome of the Saxons beganne to decay one Tovie a man of great wealth and authority as wee reade in the private History of the place The Kings Staller that is Standerd bearer for the abundance of wilde beasts there first founded it and planted threescore and sixe indwellers therein After his death Athelstane his sonne quickly made a hand of all his goods and great estate and King Edward the Confessour gave this Towne to Harold Earle Goodwins sonne and streight wayes an Abbay was erected there the worke and Tombe both of the said Harold For he being crept up by the errour of men and his owne ambition to regall Dignity built this Abbay in honour of an Holy Crosse found farre Westward and brought hither as they write by miracle Heerein made he his prayers and vowes for victory when hee marched against Normans and being soone after slaine by them was by his mother who had with most suppliant suite craved and obtained at the Conquerours hands his Corps here entombed But now it hath a Baron namely Sir Edward Deny called lately unto that honour by King Iames his Writ Over this Towne upon the rising of an Hill standeth Copthall and yeeldeth a great way off a faire sight to seed mens eyes This was the habitation in times past of Fitz-Aucher and lately of Sir Thomas Heneage Knight who made it a very goodly and beautifull house Neere unto this River also was seated no doubt DUROLITUM a Towne of antique memory which the Emperour Antonine maketh mention of but in what place precisely I am not able to shew For the ancient places of this County I tell you once for all before hand lye hidden so enwrapped in obscurity that I who elsewhere could see somewhat heerein am heere more than dim-sighted But if I may give my guesse I would thinke that to have beene DUROLITUM which retaining still some marke of the old name is called at this day Leyton that is The Towne upon Ley like as Durolitum in the British Tongue signifieth The water Ley. A small Village it is in these daies inhabited in scattering wise five miles from London for which five through the carelesse negligence of transcribers is crept into Antonine xv That there was a common passage heere in times past over the River a place nigh unto it called Ouldfourd seemeth to proove in which when Queene Mawd wife to King Henry the First hardly escaped danger of drowning shee gave order that a little beneath at Stretford there should bee a Bridge made over the water There the River brancheth into three severall streames and most pleasantly watereth on every side the greene medowes wherein I saw the remaines of a little Monasterie which William Montfichet a Lord of great name of the Normans race built in the yeere of our Lord 1140. and forthwith Ley gathering it selfe againe into one chanell mildely dischargeth it selfe in the Tamis whereupon the place is called Leymouth The Tamis which is mightily by this time encreased doth violently carry away with him the streames of many waters hath a sight to speake onely of what is worth remembrance of Berking which Bede nameth Berecing a Nunnery founded by Erkenwald Bishop of London where Roding a little River entreth into the Tamis This running hard by many Villages imparteth his name unto them as Heigh Roding Eithorp Roding Leaden Roding c. of the which Leofwin a Nobleman gave one or two in times past to
were in amity and league founded every one in his owne Kingdome Cities named Caesareae in honour of Augustus What if I should say that CAESAROMAGUS did stand neere unto Brentwood would not a learned Reader laugh at me as one Soothsayer doth when he spieth another Certes no ground I have nor reason to strengthen this my conjecture from the distance thereof seeing the numbers of the miles in Antonine be most corruptly put downe which neverthelesse agree well enough with the distance from COLONIA and CANONIUM Neither can I helpe my selfe with any proofe by the situation of it upon the Roman high-way which in this enclosed country is no where to be seene Neither verily there remaineth heere so much as a shadow or any twinkling shew of the name CAESAROMAGUS unlesse it be and that is but very sclender in the name of an Hundred which of old time was called Ceasford and now Cheasford Hundred Surely as in some ancient Cities the names are a little altered and in others cleane changed so there be againe wherein one syllable or twaine at most bee remaining thus CAESARAUGUSTA in Spaine is now altered to be Saragosa CAESAROMAGUS in France hath lost the name cleane and is called Beavois and CAESAREA in Normandy now Cherburg hath but one syllable left of it But what meane I thus to trifle and to dwell in this point If in this quarter hereby there bee not CAESAROMAGUS let others seeke after it for me It passeth my wit I assure you to finde it out although I have diligently laid for to meet with it with net and toile both of eares and eies Beneath Brentwood I saw South-Okindon where dwelt the Bruins a Family as famous as any one in this Tract out of the two heires female whereof being many times married to sundry husbands Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolke the Tirels Berners Harlestones Heveninghams and others descended And of that house there be males yet remaining in South-hampton-shire Also Thorndon where Sir John Petre Knight raised a goodly faire house who now was by our Soveraigne King James created Baron Petre of Writtle That Thorndon was in times past the dwelling place of a worshipfull Family of Fitzlewis the last of which name if we may beleeve the common report by occasion that the house happened to be set on fire in the time of his wedding feast was pittiously himselfe therein burnt to death Burghsted and more short Bursted that is the place of a Burgh which name our forefathers used to give unto many places that were of greater antiquity This I once supposed to have been CAESAROMAGUS and what ever it was in old time it is at this day but a good country Towne neere unto Byliricay a Mercat towne of very good resort Likewise Ashdowne sometimes Assandun that is as Marian interpreteth it the Mount of Asses where long since a bloudy battaile was fought in which King Edmund sirnamed Ironside had at the beginning a good hand of the Danes and put them to rout but streight waies the fortune of the field turning about he was so defeited that he lost a great number of the English Nobility In memoriall of which battaile we reade that King Canutus the Dane built a Church afterward in that place what time as upon remorse and repentance for the bloud that he had shed hee erected Chappels in what part soever he had fought any field and shed Christian bloud Not farre from these is Ralegh a prety proper towne and it seemeth to be Raganeia in Domesday booke wherein is mention made of a Castle that Suenus heere built in which also we read thus There is one Parke and sixe Arpennes of Vineyard and it yeeldeth twenty Modij of wine if it take well Which I note the rather both for the French word Arpenn and also for the wine made in this Isle This Suenus was a man of great name and of noble birth the sonne of Robert sonne of Wiwarc but father to Robert of Essex whose son was that Sir Robert de Essex who in right of inheritance was the Kings Standard bearer and who for that in a light skirmish against the Welsh hee had not onely cast off his courage but also cast away his Standard being chalenged for treason vanquished in duell or combat and thereof thrust into a Cloystre forfeited a goodly patrimony and livelod which was confiscate to King Henry the Second and helped to fill his Coffers As for the Barony it lay dead from that time a great while in the Kings hands untill Sir Hubert de Burgh obtained it of King John Above this the shores retiring backe by little and little admit two creekes of the Ocean entring within them the one the neighbour inhabitants call Crouch the other Blackwater which in old time was named Pant. In the said Crouch by reason of the waters division there lie scattered foure Islands carrying a pleasant greene hew but by occasion of inundations growne to be morish and fenny among which these two bee of greatest name Wallot and Foulenesse that is The Promontory of Fowles which hath a Church also in it and when the sea is at the lowest ebbe a man may ride over to it Betweene these Creekes lieth Dengy Hundred in ancient times Dauncing passing plentifull in grasse and rich in Cattaile but Sheepe especially where all their doing is in making of Cheese and there shall ye have men take the womens office in hand and milke Ewes whence those huge thicke Cheeses are made that are vented and sould not onely into all parts of England but into forraigne nations also for the rusticall people labourers and handicraftes men to fill their bellies and feed upon The chiefe Towne heereof at this day is Dengy so called as the Inhabitants are perswaded of the Danes who gave name unto the whole Hundred Neere unto which is Tillingham given by Ethelbert the first Christian King of the English-Saxons unto the Church of Saint Paul in London and higher up to the North shore flourished sometimes a City of ancient Record which our forefathers called Ithancestre For Ralph Niger writeth thus out of S. Bede Bishop Chad baptized the East-Saxons neere to Maldon in the City of Ithancestre that stood upon the banke of the River Pant which runneth hard by Maldon in Dengy Province but now is that City drowned in the River Pant. To point out the place precisely I am not able but I nothing doubt that the River called Froshwell at this day was heeretofore named Pant seeing that one of the Springs thereof is called Pantswell and the Monkes of Coggeshall so termed it Doubtlesse this Ithancester was situate upon the utmost Promontory of this Dengy Hundred where in these daies standeth Saint Peters upon the wall For along this shore much a doe have the inhabitants to defend their grounds with forced bankes or walls against the violence of the Ocean ready to inrush upon them And I my selfe am partly of this
is fenny and therefore impassable and it endeth nere to Cowlidge where the passage by reason of woods was more cumbersome And it was the limit as well of the Kingdome as of the Bishopricke of the East Angles Who was the author of so great a peece of worke it is uncertaine Some later writers say it was King Canutus the Dane whereas notwithstanding the said Abbo made mention of it who died before that Canutus obtained the Kingdome of England and the Saxon Chronicle where it relateth the rebellion of Athelwolph against King Edward the Elder calleth it simply Dyke and sheweth That King Edward laid waste whatsoever lieth betweene the Dyke and the river Ouse as farre as to the North Fennes also that Aethelwold the rebell and Eohric the Dane were at that time slaine there in battell But they who wrote since Canutus times termed it Saint Edmunds limit and Saint Edmunds Dyke and verily thinke that King Canutus cast it up who being most devoted to Saint Edmund the Martyr granted unto the religious Monkes of Saint Edmunds Bury for to make satisfaction for the wicked cruelty of Swan his father wrought upon them very great immunities even as farre as to this Dyke whence it is that William of Malmesbury in his booke Of Bishops writeth thus The Customers and Toll gatherers which in other places make foule worke and outrage without respect or difference of right and wrong there in humble manner on this side Saint Edmunds Dike surcease their quarrels and braules And certaine it is that these two fore-fences last named were called Saint Edmunds Dykes For Mathew Florilegus hath recorded that the said battell against Aethelwolph was fought betweene the two Dykes of Saint Edmund Nere unto Rech standeth Burwel a Castle in later times of the Lord Tiptoft which in those most troublesome times of King Stephen Geffrey Mandevill Earle of Essex who by violent invasion of other mens possessions lost much honour valiantly assaulted untill that being shot through the head with an arrow he delivered those countries from the feare they had stood in a long time Scarce two miles off stands Lanheath where for these many yeeres the Cottons right worshipfull Gentlemen of Knights degree have dwelt From which Wicken is not farre distant which came to the Family of the Peytons by a daughter and coheire of the Gernons about Edward the Thirds time as afterward Isleham descended to them by a coheire of Bernard in Henry the Sixth's time which Knightly Family of Peytons flowred out of the same Male-stocke whence the Vffords Earles of Suffolke descended as appeareth by their Coate-armour albeit they assumed the surname of Peyton according to the use of that age from their Manour of Peyton-hall in Boxford in the County of Suffolke Upon the same Dyke also is seated Kirtling called likewise Catlidge famous in these dayes by reason of the principall house of the Barons North since Queene Mary honoured Sir Edward North with that title for his wisedome but in times past it was famous for a Synode held there what time as the Clergy men were at hot strife among themselves about the celebration of the feast of Easter The higher and Northerly part of this Shire is wholly divided into river Isles and being distinguished by many Ditches Chanels and Draines with a pleasant greene hew all Summer time contenteth the eyes of the beholders but in Winter wholly in manner over-covered with water farther every way than a man is able to ken resembleth in some sort a very Sea They that inhabited this fennish Country and all the rest beside which from the edge and borders of Suffolke as farre as to Wainflet in Lincolne-shire conteineth threescore and eight miles and millions of acres lying in these foure Shires Cambridge Huntingdon North-hampton and Lincolne were in the Saxons time called Girvii that is as some interpret it Fen-men or Fen-dwellers A kind of people according to the nature of the place where they dwell rude uncivill and envious to all others whom they call Vpland-men who stalking on high upon stilts apply their mindes to grasing fishing and fowling The whole Region it selfe which in winter season and sometimes most part of the yeere is overflowed by the spreading waters of the rivers Ouse Grant Nen Welland Glene and Witham having not loades and sewers large enough to voide away But againe when their Streames are retired within their owne Channels it is so plenteous and ranke of a certaine fatte grosse and full hey which they call Lid that when they have mowen downe as much with the better as will serve their turnes they set fire on the rest and burne it in November that it may come up againe in great abundance At which time a man may see this Fennish and moyst Tract on a light flaming fire all over every way and wonder thereat Great plenty it hath besides of Turfe and Sedge for the maintenance of fire of reed also for to thatch their Houses yea and of Alders beside other watery Shrubbes But chiefly it bringeth forth exceeding store of willowes both naturally and also for that being planted by mans hand they have serv'd in good steed and often cut downe with their manifold increase and infinit number of heires to use Plinies word against the violent force of the waters rushing against the bankes Whereof also as well here as in other places there be baskets made which seeing the Britains call Bascades I for my part that I may note so much by the way do not understand the Poet Martiall in that Distichon unlesse hee meaneth these among the Presents and Gifts sent to and fro Barbara de pictis veni Bascauda Britannis Sed me jam mavult dicere Roma suam By barbarous name a Baskaud I from painted Britans came But now Rome faine would call me hers although I be the same Besides al this the herb Scordiū which also is called Water Germāder groweth plentifully here hard by the ditches sides but as for these Fenny Ilands Foelix a writer of good antiquity hath depainted them forth in these words There is a Fen of exceeding great largenesse which beginning at the bankes of the river Gront arising somewhere with sedge plots in other places with blacke waters yeelding a duskish vapour with woods also among the Isles and having many winding turnes of the banke reacheth out in a very long tract from South to North-East as farre as to the Sea And the very same Fenne William a Monke of Crowland in the life of Guthlake hath thus described in verse Est apud Angligenas à Grontae flumine longo Orbe per anfractus stagnosos fluviales Circumfusapalus Orientalisque propinqua Littoribus Pelagi sese distendit ab Austro In longum versus Aquilonem gurgite tetro Morbosos pisces vegetans arundine densa Ventorum strepitus quasi quaedam verba susurrans A spatious Fenne in England lies from
his Successours by abridging the number of Monkes for from threescore and tenne they brought them downe to forty flowed with riches and wealth in great abundance even unto our time and their festivall and solemne Holydayes they celebrated with so sumptuous provision and stately pompe that they wonne the prayse and prize from all the Abbaies in England whereupon a Poet also in that age wrote these verses not unproperly Pravisis aliis Eliensia festa videre Est quasi praevisa nocte videre diem See after others Ely feasts and surely thou wilt say That having seene the night before thou seest now the day The Church likewise which now began for age and long continuance to decay they built up by litle and litle and brought it to that ample statelinesse which now it hath For large it is high and faire but somewhat defaced by reason of Noblemens and Bishops tombes not without most shamefull indignity are broken downe And now in stead of that great Covent of Monks there are established a Deane Prebendaries a Grammar schoole wherein 24. children are maintained and taught Foure speciall things there are about this Church that the Common people talke much of The Lanterne on the very toppe thereof just over the Quire supported with eight pillars and raised upon them right artificially by Iohn Hothum the Bishop Vnder the Church towards the North standeth Saint Maries Chappell a singular fine peece of worke built by Simon Montacute Bishop On the South side there is an huge heape of earth cast up round of a great heigth which they call the Mount having had a wind mill upon it And lastly a Vine bearing fruit in great plenty which now is withered and gone These 4. a Monk of this place in times past knit up within this Rhyme Haec sunt Eliae Lanterna Capella Mariae Atque molendinum Nec non dans vinea vinum These things you may at Ely see The Lanterne Chapell of Saint Marie A Winde-mill mounted up on hie A Vine-yard yeelding Wine yeerely As for Ely it selfe it is a small Cittie nor greatly to bee counted of either for beauty or frequency and resort as having an unwholsome Aire by reason of the Fens round about although it be seated somewhat higher Neere to it is Downham where the Bishop hath his retyring House with a Parke neere to Downham is Cowney the ancientest seat of the Family surnamed for their habitation heere L'isle and De Insula and first planted here by Nigellus the second Bishop of Ely their Allies in the time of King Henry the First as is set downe in a Lieger Booke of Ely Chateries or Cheaterich is not farre hence Westward were Alwena a devout woman founded a Nunnery upon a coppid ground encompassed with Fens while her husband founded Ramsey But higher Northward amidst the Fennes there stood another Abbay of very great name called Thorney of thornes and bushes that grow thicke about it but in times past Ankerige of Ankers or Eremites living there solitarily where as we finde in Peterborough booke Sexvulph a devout and religious man built a Monastery with little Cels for Eremits Which being afterwards by the Danes throwne downe Aetbelwold Bishop of Winchester that he might promote the Monasticall profession reedified stored it with Monkes and compassed it round about with trees The place as writeth William of Malmesbury Representeth a very Paradise for that in pleasure and delight it resembleth Heaven it selfe in the very Marishes bearing Trees that for their streight talnesse and the same without knots strive to touch the Stars a Plaine is there as even as the Sea which with greene grasse allureth the eye so smooth and level that if any walke along the fields they shall finde nothing to stumble at There is not the least parcell of ground that lies waste and void there Here shall you finde the earth rising somewhere for Apple trees there shall you have a field set with Vines which either creepe upon the ground or mount on high upon poles to support them A mutuall strife there is betweene nature and husbandry that what the one forgetteth the other might supply and produce What will be said of the faire and beautifull buildings which it is a wonder to see how the ground amid those Fens and Marishes so firme and sound doth beare with sure and stedfast foundations A wonderfull solitary place is there afforded to Monkes for quiet life that so much the more constantly settle their mindes upon Heavenly things for that they see men very seldome and so are they seene in their state more mortified and lower brought A wonder it is to have a Woman seene there if come men thither there is rejoycing as at so many Angels In a word I may truly say that this Island is an Hostell of Chastity an harbour of Honesty and a Schoole or Colledge of Divine Philosophie Touching Wisbich the Bishop of Elies Castle about 13. miles off situate among the fennes and rivers and made of late a prison to keepe the Papists in hold I have nothing else to say but that this towne together with Walepole was in old time given by the owner thereof unto the monastery of Ely what time as he consecrated Alwin his little son there to live a monkes life that King William the First built a Castle there when the outlawed Lords made rodes out of this fenny country and that in the yeere of our salvation 1236. when the Ocean being disquieted with violent windes for two dayes continually together had beaten upon the shore made an exceeding wide breach and overwhelmed both land and people But the Castle of bricke that now is seene there Iohn Morton Bishop of Ely built within the rememberance of our great grandfathers who also drew as streight as a line in this fenny country a ditch which they call the Newleame for better conveyance and carriage by water that by this meanes the towne being well frequented might gaine the more and grow to wealth Which fell out quite contrary For it standeth now in no great steed and the neighbour inhabitants complaine that the course of Nen into the Sea by Clowcrosse is by this meanes altogether hindred and stopped The first Earle of Cambridge that I can finde was William the brother of Ranulph Earle of Chester as wee read in a patent or instrument of Alexander Bishop of Lincolne bearing date in the yeere 1139. Afterwards those of the royall blood in Scotland that were Earles of Huntingdon wee may thinke to have beene Earles of Cambridge also For that it appeareth certainly out of the Records of the realme that David Earle of Huntingdon received the third penny of the County or Earledome of Cambridge Long time after King Edward the Third advanced Sir Iohn of Henault brother to William the third Earle of Holland and of Henault to this honour for the love of Queene Philip his wife who was cosin to the said Iohn For
Saint Peter and be yeelded up without delay for ever unto the Abbot and to the Monkes there serving God yet King William the Conquerour cancelled and made voide this Testament who reserving a great part of it to himselfe divided the rest betweene Countesse Iudith whose daughter was married to David King of Scots Robert Mallet Oger Gislebert of Gaunt Earle Hugh Aubrey the Clerk and others And unto Westminster first he left the Tithes afterwards the Church onely of Okeham and parcels thereunto appertaining This County hath not had many Earles The first Earle of Rutland was Edward the first begotten Sonne of Edmund of Langley Duke of Yorke created by King Richard the Second upon a singular favour that he cast unto him during his Fathers life and afterwards by the same King advanced to the honour of Duke of Aumarle This young man wickedly projected with others a practise to make away King Henry the Fourth and streight waies with like levity discovered the same But after his Fathers death being Duke of Yorke lost his life fighting couragiously amid the thickest troupes of his enemies in the battaile of Agincourt Long time after there succeeded in this Honour Edward the little young Sonne of Richard Duke of Yorke and he together with his Father during those deadly broiles of civill warre was slaine in the battaile fought at Wakefield Many yeeres after King Henry the Eighth raised up Sir Thomas Mannours to be Earle of Rutland who in right of his Grand-mother Aeleonor was possessed of a goodly and faire inheritance of the Barons Roos lying in the countries round about and elsewhere In his roome succeeded his Sonne Henry and after him likewise Edward his Sonne unto whom if I should say nothing else that commendation of the Poet was most aptly and truly appliable Nomen virtutibus aequat Nec sinit ingenium nobilitate premi His name so great with vertues good he matcheth equally Nor suffreth wit smuthring to lie under Nobility But he by over hasty and untimely death being received into Heaven left this dignity unto John his Brother who also departing this life within a while hath for his successor Roger his Sonne answerable in all points to his ancient and right noble parentage This small Shire hath Parish Churches 48. LINCOLNIAE Comitatus vbi olim insederunt CORITANI LINCOLNE-SHIRE VPon Rutland on the East side confineth the County of LINCOLNE called by the English-Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and by the Normans Nicol-shire after their comming into the Land with some transposition of letters but usually LINCOLNE-SHIRE A very large Country as reaching almost threescore miles in length and carrying in some places above thirty miles in bredth passing kinde for yeeld of Corne and feeding of Cattaile well furnished and set out with a great number of Townes and watered with many Rivers Upon the Eastside where it bendeth outward with a brow fetching a great compasse the German Ocean beateth on the shore Northward it recheth to Humber an arme of the sea on the West side it butteth upon Nottingham-shire and on the South it is severed from Northampton-shire by the River Welland This whole Shire is divided into three parts whereof one is called Holland a second Kesteven and the third Lindsey Holland which Ingulph termeth Holland lyeth to the sea and like unto that Holland in Germanie it is so throughly wet in most places with waters that a mans foote is ready to sinke into it and as one standeth upon it the ground will shake and quake under his feet and thence it may seeme to have taken the name unlesse a man would with Ingulph say that Holland is the right name and the same imposed upon it of Hay which our Progenitours broadly called Hoy. This part throughout beareth upon that ebbing and flowing arme of the Sea which Ptolomee calleth METARIS instead of Maltraith and wee at this day The Washes A very large arme this is and passing well knowne at every tide and high sea covered all over with water but when the sea ebbeth and the tide is past a man may passe over it as on dry land but yet not without danger Which King John learned with his losse For whilest he journied this way when he warred upon the rebellious Barons the waters suddenly brake in upon him so that at Fosse-dyke and Welstream he lost all his carriage and princely furniture as Matthew of Westminster writeth This Country which the Ocean hath laied to the land as the Inhabitants beleeve by sands heaped and cast together they it terme Silt is assailed on the one side with the said Ocean sea and in the other with a mighty confluence of waters from out of the higher countries in such sort that all the Winter quarter the people of the country are faine to keepe watch and ward continually and hardly with all the bankes and dammes that they make against the waters are able to defend themselves from the great violence and outrage thereof The ground bringeth forth but small store of corne but plenty of grasse and is replenished abundantly with fish and water-fowle The Soile throughout is so soft that they use their Horses unshod neither shall you meet so much as with a little stone there that hath not beene brought thither from other places neverthelesse there bee most beautifull Churches standing there built of foure square stone Certaine it is that the sea aforetime had entred farther up into the Country and that appeareth by those bankes formerly raised against the waterwaves then in-rushing which are now two miles off from the shore as also by the hils neere Sutterton which they call Salt-Hils But of fresh water there is exceeding great want in all places neither have they any at all but raine water and that in pits which if they be of any great depth presently become brackish if shallow they dry up as soone Neither are there Quicksands wanting which have a wonderfull force to draw to them and to hold fast as both Shepheards and their poore Sheepe also finde other whiles not without danger This Holland or Hoiland whether you will is divided into two parts The Lower and the Higher The Lower hath in it soule and slabby quavemires yea and most troublesome Fennes which the very Inhabitants themselves for all their stilts cannot stalke through And considering that it lieth very low and flat fenced it is of the one side against the Ocean on the other from those waters which overwhelme the upper part of the Isle of Ely with mighty piles and huge bankes opposed against the same Of which Southybanke is of greatest name which least it should have a breach made through it with that infinite masse of water that falleth from the South part when the Rivers swell and all is overflowne by inundation the people watch with great care and much feare as against a dangerous enemy And yet for the draining away of this water the neighbour Inhabitants at the common charges
of the same name not farre from the ruines of Bitham Castle which as we find in an old Pedigree King William the first gave to Stephen Earle of Albemarle and Holdernesse that he might from thence have wherewith to feed his sonne as yet a little infant with fine wheat bread considering that in Holdernesse they did eate in those daies oten bread onely although they use now such kind of bread little or nothing at all But in the reigne of King Henry the Third when William de Fortibus Earle of Aumarle rebelliously kept this Castle and thence forraged and wasted the country about it it was laid well neere even with the ground Afterward this was the capitall seat as it were of the Barony of the Colvils who along time flourished in very great honour but the right line had an end under King Edward the Third and then the Gernons and those notable Bassets of Sapcot in right of their wives entred upon the inheritance This river Witham presently beneath his head hath a towne seated hard by it named Paunton which standeth much upon the antiquity thereof where are digged up oftentimes pavements of the Romanes wrought with checker worke and heere had the river a bridge over it in old time For that this is the towne AD PONTEM which Antonine the Emperor placed seven miles distant from MARGIDUNUM the name Paunton together with the distance not onely from Margidunum but also from Crococalana doth easily convince for in Antonine that towne was called CROCOCALANA which at this day is named Ancaster and is no more but a long streete through which the High-way passeth whereof the one part not long since belonged to the Veseies the other to the Cromwells At the entry into it on the South part we saw a rampier with a ditch and certaine it is that aforetime it had been a Castle like as on the other side Westward is to be seene a certaine summer standing campe of the Romanes And it may seeme that it tooke a British name from the situation thereof For it lieth under an hill and Cruc-maur in British signifieth a Great hill like as Cruc-occhidient a mount in the West as we read in Giraldus Cambrensis and Ninnius But what should be the meaning of that Calana let others looke The memory of antiquity in this towne is continued and maintained by the Romane Coines by the vaults under ground oftentimes discovered by the site upon the High-street and by those fourteene miles that are betweene it and Lincolne through a greene plaine which we call Ancaster-Heath for just so many doth Antonine reckon betweene Croco-calana and Lindum But now returne we to the river After Paunton wee come to Grantham a towne of good resort adorned and set out with a Schoole built by Richard Fox Bishop of Winchester and with a faire Church having a spire-steeple of a mighty heigth whereof there goe many fabulous tales Beneath it neere unto Herlaxton a little village a brasen vessell in our fathers time was turned up with a plough wherein a golden Helmet of a most antique fashion was found set with precious stones which was given as a present to Catherine of Spaine wife and Dowager to King Henry the Eighth From hence Witham passeth with a long course North-ward not farre from Somerton Castle which Antonine Becc Bishop of Durham built and gave to King Edward the First but a little after it was bestowed upon Sir Henry de Beaumont who about that time came into England and began the family of the Lords Beaumont which in the foregoing age in some sort failed when as the sister and heire of the last Vicount was married to John Lord Lovel de Tichmersh But of this house I have spoken before in Leicester-shire From thence the river bending by little and little to the South-East and passing through a Fenny Country dischargeth it selfe into the German Sea beneath Boston after it hath closed in Kesteven on the North. On the other side of Witham lieth the third part of this shire named Lindsey which of the chiefe Citie of the Shire Bede called Lindissi and being greater than Hoiland and Kesteven butteth with a huge bowing front upon the Ocean beating upon the East and North sides thereof On the West part it hath the river Trent and is severed from Kesteven on the South by that Witham aforesaid and the Fosse Dike anciently cast and scoured by King Henry the First for seven miles in length from Witham into Trent that it might serve the Citizens of Lincolne for carriage of necessaries by water Where this Dike entreth into Trent standeth Torksey in the Saxon language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a little towne and in these daies of small account but in ancient times very famous For before the Normans comming in as we finde in that booke wherein King William the first set downe his survey of England there were numbered in it two hundred Burgesses who enjoyed many priviledges on this condition that they should transport the Kings Embassadours whensoever they came this way in their owne Barges along the Trent and conduct them as farre as YORKE But where this Dike joyneth to Witham there is the principall City of this Shire placed which Ptolomee and Antonine the Emperour called LINDUM the Britans LINDCOIT of the woods for which we finde it elsewhere written amisse Luit-coit Bede LINDE-COLLINUM and LINDE COLLINA CIVITAS whether it were of the situation upon an hill or because it hath been a Colonie I am not able to avouch The Saxons termed it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the Normans most corruptly Nichol we Lincolne and the Latine writers Lincolnia whereupon Alexander Necham in his booke intituled Divine wisdome writeth thus Lindisiae columen Lincolnia sive columna Munificâ foelix gente repleta bonis Lincolne the stay or piller sure of Lindsey thou maist bee Blest for thy people bounteous and goods that are in thee Others will have it to take that name of the river Witham which they say was called by a more ancient name Lindis but they have no authority to warrant them Neither am I of their judgement For Necham is against it who foure hundred yeeres agoe called the said river Witham in this verse Trenta tibi pisces mittit Lincolnia sed te Nec dedigneris Withama parvus adit The Trent unto thee sendeth fish O Lincoln well we see Yet little Witham scorne it not a riveret comes to thee I for my part would rather derive it from the British word Lhin which with the Britans signifieth a Lake For I have been enformed of the Citizens that Witham below the Citie by Swanpole was broader than now it is and yet is it at this day of a good breadth and to say nothing of Lindaw in Germanie by the Lake Acronius and of Linternum in Italie standing by a Lake I see
fourth to whose Treatise of Tenures the students of our Common Law are no lesse beholden than the Civilians to Iustinians Institutes But to returne This Salwarp which we speake of runneth downe by Bromesgrove a mercate towne not of the meanest reckoning and not far from Grafton the seat of a yonger family of the Talbots since King Henry the Seventh gave it to Sir Gilbert Talbot a yonger sonne of John the second Earle of Shrewsbury whom also for his martiall valour and singular wisdome he admitted into the society of the Order of the Garter and made Governor of Callis Then runneth Salwarp downe to Droitwich Durt-wich some terme it of the Salt pits and the wettish ground on which it standeth like as Hyetus in Bâ—etia tooke name of the durty situation where three fountaines yeelding plenty of water to make Salt of divided a sunder by a little brooke of fresh water passing betweene by a peculiar giâ—t of nature spring out out of which most pure white Salt is boiled for sixe moneths every yeere to wit from Midsommer to Midwinter in many set fornaces round about Wherewith what a mighty deale of wood is consumed Fekenham Forest where trees grew sometime thicker and the woods round about if men hold their peace will by their thinnesse make manifest more and more But if I should write that the learned Canonist Richard de la Wich Bishop of Chichester here borne obtained with his fervent prayers these Salt springs out of the bowels of the earth I feare me least some might thinke me both over injurious to the providence of God and also too credulous of old wives traditions Yet were our ancestours in their pious devotion so hasty of beleefe that they did not onely give credit hereto yea and recorde it in their writings but in consideration heereof yeelded unto that Prelate in some sort divine honour when Pope Urban the Fourth had for his sanctity and sincere integrity of life canonized him a Saint But before that ever this Richard was borne Gervase of Tilbury wrote thus of these Salt springs though not altogether truely In the Bishopricke of Worcester there is a country towne not farre from the City named Wich in which at the foote of a certaine little hill there runneth a most fresh water in the banke whereof are seene a few pits or wels of a reasonable depth and their water is most salt When this water is boyled in Caudrons it becommeth thicke and turneth into passing white Salt and all the Province fetcheth and carrieth it for that betweene Christmas and the feast of S. Iohn Baptists Nativitie good the water floweth most Salt The rest of the yeere it runneth somewhat fresh and nothing good to make Salt and that which I take to be more wonderfull when this salt water is run sufficiently for the use of the Country scarcely overfloweth it to any waste Also when the time is once come of the saltnesse the same is nothing at all allaid for all the vicinity of the fresh river water neither is it found in any place neere unto the Sea Moreover in the very Kings booke which we call Domesday we read thus In Wich the King and Earle have eight salt pits which in the whole weeke wherein they boiled and wrought yeelded on the Friday sixteene Bullions Salwarp having now entertained a small brooke descending from Chedesley where anciently the family of Foliot flourished as afterward at Longdon maketh hast to Severne which hath not passed foure miles farther before he runs hard by WORCESTER the principall City of this Shire where he seemeth to passe with a flower streame as it were admiring and wondering thereat all the while he passeth by and worthy it is I assure you of admiration whether you respect either the antiquity or the beauty thereof Certes for antiquity the Emperour Antonine hath made mention of it under the name of BRANONIUM and Ptolomee in whom through the negligence of the transcribers it is misplaced under the name of BRANOGENIUM after which name the Britans call it yet Care Wrangon In the Catalogue of Ninnius it is named Caer Guorangon and Caer Guorcon the old English-Saxons afterward called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 I dare not say of Wire that woody Forest which in old time stretched farre Since the Conquest the Latine writers named it Vigornia and Wigornia Which name Ioseph the Monke of Excester a right elegant Poet in those daies was one of the first that used if my memory faile me not I meane him that is published under the name of Cornelius Nepos in these his elegant verses unto Baldwin Archbishop of Canterbury In numerum jam crescit honor te tertia poscit Insula jam meminit Wigornia Cantia discit Romanus meditatur apex naufraga Petri Ductorem in mediis expectat cymba procellis A mitre third now waits for thee for still thine honour growes Thee Wigorne still remembereth now Canterbury knowes The See of Rome doth thinke of thee and Peters ship in feare Of wracke amid the boistrous stormes expects thee for to steare Probable it is that the Romanes built it what time as they planted cities at certaine spaces and distances along the East banke of Severne to keepe in the Britans beyond Severne like as they did in Germany on the South banke of Rhene to represse the incursions of the Germans It standeth in a place rising somewhat with a gentle ascent by the rivers side that hath a faire bridge with a tower over it proudly bearing it selfe in old time as I finde it written in an ancient Manuscript roule of the Romanes wall and even now also it is well and strongly walled But the fame and reputation that it now hath ariseth from the Inhabitants who are many in number courteous and wealthy by the trade of clothing from their faire and neat houses from the number also of Churches but most of all from the Bishops See which Sexwulph Bishop of the Mercians erected there in the yeere of Christ 680. having built a Cathedrall Church at the South side of the City which hath been often repaired and which the Bishops and Monkes by little and little have drawne out in length Westward almost to the very brinke of Severn Truly it is a passing faire and stately building adorned with the Monuments and Tombes of King Iohn Arthur Prince of Wales and divers of the Beauchamps and in these daies it is no lesse notable by the Deane and Chapter whom they call Prebendaries placed therein than it was in times past for the Monkes or the Cloister Priests For presently upon the first foundation like as in other religious houses of England married Priests were placed heere who carrying a long time a great opinion of holinesse governed the Churches untill that Danstane Archbishop of Canterbury had decreed in a Synode That from thence forward the religious men in England should live a
in British called Castle Hean that is The Old Castle and in English The Old Towne A poore small Village now but this new name is a good proofe for the antiquity thereof for in both tongues it soundeth as much as an Old Castle or towne Next unto this Old Towne Alterynnis lieth in manner of a River-Island insulated within waters the seat in old time of that ancient family of the Sitsilts or Cecils knights whence my right honourable Patron accomplished with all the ornaments of vertue wisdome and Nobility Sir William Cecil Baron of Burghley and Lord high Treasurer of England derived his descent From hence Munow turning Eastward for a good space separateth this Country from Monmouth-shire and at Castle Map-harald or Harold Ewias is encreased with the River Dor. This Ewias Castle that I may speake out of K. William the First his Booke was repaired by Alured of Marleberg Afterwards it pertained to one Harold a Gentleman who in a Shield argent bare a Fesse Geules betweene three Estoiles Sable for his Armes of whom it beganne to bee called Harold Ewias but Sibyll his niece in the second degree and one of the heires by her marriage transferred it to the Lords of Tregoz froÌ„ whom it came at length to the Lords of Grandison descended out of Burgundie But of them elsewhere Now the said Dor which running downe froÌ„ the North by Snodhill a Castle and the Barony sometime of Robert Chandos where is a quary of excellent marble cutteth through the midst of the Vale which of the River the Britans call Diffrin Dore but the Englishmen that they might seeme to expresse the force of that word termed it the Gilden Vale which name it may by good right and justly have for the golden wealthy and pleasant fertility thereof For the hils that compasse it in on both sides are clad with woods under the woods lie corne fields on either hand and under those fields most gay and gallant medowes then runneth in the midst between them a most cleere and crystall River on which Robert Lord of Ewias placed a faire Monastery wherein most of the Nobility and Gentry of these parts were interred Part of this shire which from this Vale declineth and bendeth Eastward is now called Irchenfeld in Domesday Booke Archenfeld which as our Historians write was layed wast with fire and sword by the Danes in the yeere 715. at what time Camalac also a Britan Bishop was carried away prisoner In this part stood Kilpeck a Castle of great name and the seat it was of the noble Family of the Kilpecks who were as some say the Champions to the Kings of England in the first age of the Normans And I my selfe also will easily assent unto them In the Raigne of Edward the First there dwelt heere Sir Robert Wallerond whose nephew Alane Plugenet lived in the honourable state of a Baron In this Archenfeld likewise as wee reade in Domesday booke certaine revenewes by an old custome were assigned to one or two Priests on this condition that they should goe in Embassages for the Kings of England into Wales and to use the words out of the same booke The men of Archenfeld whensoever the Army marcheth forward against the enemy by a custome make the Avantgard and in the returne homeward the Rereward As Munow runneth along the lower part of this shire so Wy with a bending course cutteth over the middest upon which River in the very West limit Clifford Castle standeth which William Fitz Osborn Earle of Hereford built upon his owne West as it is in King William the Conquerours booke but Raulph de Todenay held it Afterward it seemeth to have come unto Walter the sonne of Richard Fitz Punt a Norman for he was sirnamed De Clifford and from him the right honorable family of the Earles of Cumberland doe truly deduce their descent But in the daies of King Edward the First John Giffard who married the heire of Walter L. Clifford had it in his hands Then Wy with a crooked and winding streame rolleth downe by Whitney which hath given name to a worshipfull Family and by Bradwardin Castle which gave both originall and name to that famous Thomas Bradwardin Archbishop of Canterbury who for his variety of knowledge and profound learning was in that age tearmed The Profound Doctour and so at length commeth to Hereford the head City of this Country How farre that little Region Archenfeld reached I know not but the affinity betweene these names Ereinuc Archenfeld the towne ARICONIUM of which Antonine in the description of this Tract maketh mention and Hareford or Hereford which now is the chiefe City of the Shire have by little and little induced mee to this opinion that I thinke every one of these was derived from ARICONIUM Yet doe I not thinke that Ariconium and Hereford were both one and the same but like as Basil in Germany chalenged unto it the name of Augusta Rauracorum and Baldach in Assyria the name of Babylon â—or that as one had originall from the ruines of Babylon so the other from the ruines of Augusta even so this Hariford of ours for so the common people call it derived both name and beginning in mine opinion from his neighbour old ARICONIUM which hath at this day no shape or shew at all of a Towne as having beene by report shaken to peeces with earthquake Onely it reteineth still a shadow of the name being called Kenchester and sheweth to the beholders some ruines of walles which they tearme Kenchester walles about which are often digged up foure square paving stones of Checker worke British-brickes peeces of Romane money and other such like remaines of Antiquity But Hereford her daughter which more expressly resembleth the name thereof standeth Eastward scarce three Italian miles from it seated among most pleasant medowes and as plentifull corne fields compassed almost round about with Rivers on the North side and on the West with one that hath no name on the South side with Wy thath hastneth hither out of Wales It is thought to have shewed her head first what time as the Saxons Heptarchie was in the flower and prime built as some write by King Edward the Elder neither is there as farre as I have read any memory thereof more ancient For the Britans before the name of Hereford was knowne called the place Tresawith of Beech trees and Hereford of an Old way and the Saxons themselves 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 of ferns The greatest encrease if I be not deceived that it had came by Religion and by the Martyrdome of Ethelbert King of the East England Who when he wooed himselfe the daughter of Offa K. of the Mercians was villanously forlaid and murdered by the procurement of Quendred Offaes wife respecting more the countries of the East England than the honest and honorable match of her daughter which Ethelbert being registred in
the Catalogue of Martyrs had a Church here built and dedicated unto him by Milfrid a pety K. of the country wherein when a Bishops See was established it grew to great wealth first through the devout liberality of the Mercians and then of the West Saxons kings for they at length were possessed of this City as may be gathered out of William of Malmesbury where he writeth That Athelistan the West Saxon brought the Lords of Wales in this City of so hard passe that by way of Tribute they were to pay every yeere besides Hounds and Haukes twenty pounds of gold and three hundred pound of silver by weight This Citie as farre as I can reade had never any misfortune unlesse it were in the yeere of our Lord 1055. wherein Gruffith Prince of South Wales and Algar an English man rebelling against King Edward the Confessour after they had put to flight Earle Ralph sacked the Citie destroyed the Cathedrall Church and led away captive Leofgar the Bishop But Harold straightwaies after that hee and daunted their audacious courage fensed it as Floriacensis saith with a broade and high Rampier Hence it is that Malmesbury writeth thus in his treatise of Bishops Hereford is no great Citie and yet by the height of those steepe and upright bankes cast up it sheweth that it hath beene some great thing and as wee reade in the Domesday booke of King William the Conquerour there were in all but an hundered and three men within the Walles and without The Normans afterwards neere the East end of the Church along the side of Wy built a mighty great and strong Castle the worke as some report of Earle Miles which now yeeldeth to Time and runneth to ruine After this they walled the Citie about Bishop Reinelm in the reigne of Henry the First founded that beautifull Cathedrall Church which now we see there whose successours enlarged it by adioyning thereto a proper Colledge for Priests and faire houses for the Prebendaries For besides the Bishop who hath 302. Churches in his Dioecese there are in this Church a Deane two Archdeacons a Chaunter a Chauncellour 2 Treasurer and eight and twenty Prebendaries In the Church I saw in manner no Monuments but the Bishops Tombes And I have heard that Thomas Cantlow the Bishop a man of Noble birth had here a very stately and sumptuous Sepulcher who for his holinesse being canonized a Saint went within a little of surmounting that princely Martyr King Ethelbert such was the opinion of singular pietie and devotion Geographers measure the position or site of this Citie by the Longitude of twenty degrees and foure and twenty scruples and by the Latitude of two and fifty degrees and sixe scruples Wy is not gone full three miles from hence but he intercepteth by the way the river Lug who running downe a maine out of Radnor hils with a still course passeth through the mids of this country from the North-west of the South-east At the first entrance it seeth a farre off Brampton Brian Castle which a famous family named hereof de Brampton wherein the forname was usually Brian held by continuall succession unto the time of King Edward the First but now by the female heires it is come to R. Harleie neere at hand it beholdeth Wigmore in the English Saxons tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 repaired in elder times by King Edward the elder afterward fortified by William Earle of Hereford with a Castle in the wast of a ground for so reade we in Domesday booke which was called Marestun in the tenure of Radulph de Mortimer from whom those Mortimers that were afterwards Earles of March lineally descended of whom you may reade more in Radnor-shire Three miles off there is another neighbour Castle called Richards Castle the possession first of the Sayes then of the Mortimers and afterwards of the Talbots by hereditarie succession At length by the heires of Sir Iohn Talbot the inheritance was divided betweene Sir Guarin Archdeacon and Sir Matthew Gurnay Beneath this Castle Nature who no where disporteth her selfe more in shewing wonders then in waters hath brought forth a pretty well which is alwaies full of little bones or as some thinke of small frog-bones although they be from time to time drawne quite out of it whence it is commonly called Bone well And not farre off is placed Croft Castle the possession of that very ancient family of the Crofts Knights who have there now a long time flourished in great and good esteeme Thence passeth Wy to Lemster which also was called Leon Minister and Lions Monastery of a Lyon that appeared to a religious man in a vision as some have dreamed But whereas the Britans call it Lhan Lieni which signifieth a Church of Nunnes and that it is certainely knowne that Merewalc a King of the Mercians built here a Church for Nunnes that afterwards became a Cell belonging to the Monastery of Reading to seeke any other originall of the name than from those Nunnes what were it else but to hunt after the windes Yet there want not some who derive it from Line whereof the best kinde groweth here The greatest name and same that it hath at this day is of the wooll in the territories round about Lemister Ore they call it which setting aside that of Apulia and Tarentum all Europe counteth to be the very best so renowned also it is for Wheat and bread of the Finest floure that Lemster bread and Weabley Ale a towne belonging to the noble Familie D'Eureux are growne unto a common proverbe By reason of these commodities the mercates at Lemster were so frequented that they of Hereford and Worcester complaining that the confluence of people thither impaired their mercates procured that by Royall authoritie the mercat day was changed Now have I nothing more concerning Lemster but that William Breosa Lord of Brecknock when hee revolted from King John did set it on fire and defaced it As for that Webley aforesaid it is situate more within the Country and was the Baronie of the Verdons the first of which house named Bertram de Verdon came into England with the Normans whose posteritie by marriage with an inheretrice of Laceies of Trim in Ireland were for a good while hereditary Constables of Ireland and at last the possessions were by the daughters devolved to the Furnivalls Burghersh Ferrars of Groby Crop-hulls and from the Crop-hulls by the Ferrars of Chartly unto D'Eureux Earles of Essex Neere neighbours unto Webley more Westward are these places Huntingdon Castle the possession in times past of the Bohuns Earles of Hereford and of Essex Kinnersley belonging to the auncient Family De la-bere and Erdsley where the auncient Family of the Baskervills have long inhabited which bred in old time so many worthie Knights who deduce their pedigree from a Neice of Dame Gunora that most famous Lady in Normandy and long agoe flourished in this Country and
County of YORKE in the Saxon Tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 commonly YORKE-SHIRE the greatest Shire by farre of all England is thought to bee in a temperate measure fruitfull If in one place there bee stony and sandy barraine ground in another place there are for it Corne-fields as rich and fruitfull if it bee voide and destitute of Woods heere you shall finde it shadowed there with most thicke Forests so providently useth Nature such a temperature that the whole Countrey may seeme by reason also of that variety more gracefull and delectable Where it bendeth Westward it is bounded with the Hilles I spake of from Lancashire and Westmorland On the North side it hath the Bishopricke of Durham which the River Tees with a continued course separateth from it On the East side the Germaine Sea lieth sore upon it and the South side is enclosed first with Cheshire and Darby-shire then with Nottingham-shire and after with Lincoln-shire where that famous arme of the Sea Humber floweth betweene into which all the Rivers well neere that water this shire empty themselves as it were into their common receptacle This whole Shire is divided into three parts which according to three Quarters of the world are called The West-Riding The East-Riding and The North-Riding West-Riding for a good while is compassed in with the River Ouse with the bound of Lancashire and with the South limits of the shire and beareth toward the West and South East-Riding looketh to the Sunne-rising and the Ocean which together with the River Derwent encloseth it North-Riding reacheth Northward hemmed in as it were with the River Tees with Derwent and a long race of the River Ouse In that West part out of the Westerne Mountaines or Hilles in the Confines issue many Rivers which Ouse alone entertaineth every one and carryeth them all with him unto Humber Neither can I see any fitter way to describe this part than to follow the streames of Done Calder Are Wherse Nid and Ouse which springing out of these Hilles are the Rivers of most account and runne by places likewise of greatest importance The River Danus commonly called Don and Dune so termed as it should seeme for that it is carried in a chanell somewhat flat shallow and low by the ground for so much signifieth Dan in the British language after it hath saluted Wortley which gave sirname to a worshipfull Family as also Wentworth hard by whence beside other Gentlemen as well in this Country as elsewhere the Barons of Wentworth have derived both their originall and name runneth first by Sheafield a Towne of great name like as other small Townes adjoyning for the Smithes therein considering there bee many iron Mines thereabout fortified also with a strong and ancient Castle which in right line descended from the Lovetofts the Lords Furnivall and Thomas Lord Nevill of Furnivall unto the Talbots Earles of Shrewesbury From thence Don clad with alders and other trees goeth to Rotheram which glorieth in Thomas Rotheram sometime Archbishop of Yorke a wise man bearing the name of the Towne being borne therein and a singular benefactor thereunto who founded and endowed there a College with three Schooles in it to teach children writing Grammar and Musicke which the greedy iniquity of these our times hath already swallowed Then looketh it up to Connisborrow or Conines-borrough an ancient Castle in the British tongue Caer Conan seated upon a Rocke into which what time as Aurelius Ambrosius had so discomfited and scattered the English Saxons at Maisbelly that they tooke them to their heeles and fled every man the next way hee could finde Hengest their Captaine retired himselfe for safety and few daies after brought his men forth to battaile before the Captaine against the Britans that pursued him where hee fought a bloudy field to him and his For a great number of men were there cut in peeces and the Britans having intercepted him chopt off his head if wee may beleeve the British History rather than the English-Saxon Chronicles which report that he being outworne with travell and labour died in peace But this Coningsborough in latter ages was the possession of the Earles of Warren Afterwards hee runneth under Sprotburg the ancient seat of that ancient family of the Fitz-Williams Knights who are most honourably allied and of kin to the noblest houses of England and from whom descended Sir William Fitz-Williams Earle of Southampton in our fathers remembrance and Sir William Fitz-Williams late Lord Deputy of Ireland But in processe of time this is fallen to the Copleys like as Elmesly with other possessions of theirs in this Tract are come by right of inheritance to the Savils From hence Done running with a divided streame hard to an old towne giveth it his owne name which we at this day call Dan-castre the Scots Don-Castle the Saxons Dona 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Ninius Caer Daun but Antonine the Emperour DANUM like as the booke of Notices which hath recorded that the Captaine of the Crispinian Horsemen lay there in Garison under the Generall of Britaine This about the yeere of our Lord 759. was so burnt with fire from heaven and lay so buried under the owne ruines that it could scarce breath againe A large plot it sheweth yet where a Citadell stood which men thinke was then consumed with fire in which place I saw the Church of S. Georges a faire Church and the onely Church they have in the Towne Beneath this Towne Southward scarce five miles off is Tickhill which I am not willing to omit an old towne fensed with as old a Castle large enough but having onely a single Wall about it and with an high Mount whereon standeth a round Keepe It carryed in old time such a Dignity with it that the Manours and Lords belonging thereto were called The Honour of Tickhill In the Raigne of Henry the First Roger Busly held the possession thereof Afterwards the Earles of Ewe in Normandy were long since Lords of it by the gift of King Stephen Then King Richard the First gave it unto John his brother In the Barons Warre Robert de Vipont deteined it for himselfe which that hee should deliver unto the Earle of Ewe King Henry the Third put into his hands the Castle of Carleol and the County But when the King of France would not restore unto the English againe their possessions in France the King of England retained it unto himselfe when as John Earle of Ewe in the right of Alice his great Grandmother claimed of King Edward the First restitution thereof At length Richard the Second King of England liberally gave it unto John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster But now by this time Done that often riseth heere and overfloweth the fields gathering his divided waters into one streame againe when he hath for a while runne in one Chanell through Hatfeld Chace where there is great
high and steepe Hill which hath no easie passage on even ground unto it but of one side are seene the manifest tokens of a Rampire some ruines of walles and of a Castle which was guarded about with a triple strength of Forts and Bulwarkes Some will have this also to have beene OLICANA But the trueth saith otherwise and namely that it is CAMBODUNUM which Ptolomee calleth amisse CAMULODUNUM and Beda by a word divided CAMPO-DUNUM This is prooved by the distance thereof on the one side from MANCUNIUM on the other from CALCARIA according to which Antonine placeth it Moreover it seemeth to have flourished in very great honour when the English Saxons first beganne to rule For the Kings Towne it was and had in it a Cathedrall Church built by Paulinus the Apostle of these parts and the same dedicated to Saint Alban whence in stead of Albon-bury it is now called Almon-bury But when Ceadwall the Britan and Penda the Mercian made sharpe warre upon Edwin the Prince of these Countries it was set on fire by the enemy as Beda writeth which the very adust and burnt colour as yet remaining upon the stones doth testifie Yet afterwards there was a Castle built in the same place which King Stephen as I have read confirmed unto Henry Lacy. Hard unto it lyeth Whitly the habitation of an ancient and notable Family of Beaumont which notwithstanding is different from that House of the Barons and Vicounts Beau-mont yet it was of great name in this Tract before their comming into England Calder now leaving these places behinde him and having passed by Kirkley an house in times past of religious Nunnes and the Tombe of Robin Hood that right good and honest Robber in which regard he is so much spoken of goeth to Dewsborrough seated under an high Hill Whether it had the name of DVI that tutelar God of the place of whom I wrote a little before I am not able to say Surely the name is not unlike for it soundeth as much as Duis Burgh and flourished at the very first infancy as it were of the Church springing up amongst the Englishmen in this Province for I have heard that there stood a Crosse heere with this Inscription PAULINUS HIC PRAEDICAVIT ET CELEBRAVIT that is PAULINUS HERE PREACHED AND CELEBRATED DIVINE SERVICE And that this Paulinus was the first Archbishop of Yorke about the yeere of our Redemption 626. all Chronicles doe accord From hence Calder running by Thornhill which from Knights of that sirname is descended to the Savills passeth hard by Wakefield a Towne famous for clothing for greatnesse for faire building a well frequented Mercate and a Bridge upon which King Edward the Fourth erected a beautifull Chappell in memoriall of those that lost their lives there in battaile The Possession sometime this was of the Earles of Warren and of Surry as also Sandall Castle adjoyning which John Earle of Warren who was alwaies fleshly lustfull built when he had used the wife of Thomas Earle of Lancaster more familiarly than honesty would require to the end he might deteine and keepe her in it securely from her Husband By this Townes side when the civill warre was hote heere in England and setled in the very bowels thereof Richard Duke of Yorke father to King Edward the Fourth who chose rather to hazard his fortune than to stay the good time thereof was slaine in the field by those that tooke part with the House of Lancaster The Tract lying heere round about for a great way together is called The Seigniory or Lordship of Wakefield and hath alwaies for the Seneschall or Steward one of the better sort of Gentlemen dwelling thereby Which Office the Savills have oftentimes borne who are heere a very great and numerous Family and at this day Sir John Savill Knight beareth it who hath a very sightly faire house not farre off at Howley which maketh a goodly shew Calder is gone scarce five miles farther when he betaketh both his water and his name also to the River Are. Where at their very meeting together standeth betweene them Medley in times past 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 so called for the situation as it were in the middest betweene two Rivers The seat it was in the age aforegoing of Sir Robert Waterton Master of the Horse to King Henry the Fourth but now of Sir John Savill a right worshipfull Knight and a most worthy Baron of the Kings Exchequer whom I acknowledge full gladly in his love and courtesie to have favoured me and out of his learning to have furthered this worke This river Are springing out of the bothom of the hill Pennigent which among the Westerne hils mounteth aloft above the rest doth forthwith so sport himselfe with winding in and out as doubtfull whether hee should returne backe to his spring-head or runne on still to the sea that my selfe in going directly forward on my way was faine to passe over it seven times in an houres riding It is so calme and milde and carryeth so gentle and slow a streame that it seemeth not to runne at all but to stand still whence I suppose it tooke the name For as I have said before Ara in the British tongue betokeneth Milde Still and Slow whereupon that slow River in France Araris hath his name The Country lying about the head of this River is called in our tongue Craven perchance of the British word Crage that is a Stone For the whole Tract there is rough all over and unpleasant to see to with craggy stones hanging rockes and rugged waies in the middest whereof as it were in a lurking hole not farre from Are standeth Skipton and lyeth hidden and enclosed among steepe Hilles in like manner as Latium in Italie which Varro supposeth to have beene so called because it lyeth close under Apennine and the Alpes The Towne for the manner of their building among these Hilles is faire enough and hath a very proper and a strong Castle which Robert de Rumeley built by whose posterity it came by inheritance to the Earles of Aumarle And when their inheritance for default of heires fell by escheat into the Kings hands Robert de Clifford whose heires are now Earles of Cumberland by way of exchange obtained of King Edward the Second both this Castle and also faire lands round about it every way delivering into the Kings hands in lieu of the same the possessions that he had in the Marches of Wales When Are is once past Craven hee spreadeth broader and passeth by more pleasant fields lying on each side of it and Kigheley among them which gave name to the worshipfull Family of Kigheley so sirnamed thereof Of which Family Henry Kigheley obtained of king Edward the First for this Manour of his The Liberty of a Mercate and Faire and free warren So that no man might enter into those lands to bunt and chace in them or
head Yet others are of opinion that this name arrived in this Island with the English out of Angloen in Denmarke the ancient seat of the English nation for there is a towne called Flemsburg and that the Englishmen from hence called it so like as the Gaules as Livie witnesseth tearmed Mediolanum that is Millan in Italiâ— after the name of Mediolanum in Gaule which they had left behinde them For there is a little village in this Promontory named Flamborrough where an other notable house of the Constables had anciently their seat which some doe derive from the Lacies Constables of Chester Beeing in these parts I could learne nothing for all the enquirie that I made as touching the bournes commonly called Vipseys which as Walter of Heminburgh hath recorded flow every other yeere out of blinde springs and runne with a forcible and violent streame toward the sea nere unto this Promontory Yet take here with you that which William Newbrigensis who was borne neare that place writeth of them Those famous waters which commonly are called Vipseys rise out of the earth from many sources not continually but every second yeere and being growne unto a great bourn runne downe by the lower grounds into the sea Which when they are dry it is a good signe for their breaking out and flowing is said to bee an infallible token portending some dearth to ensue From thence the shore is drawne in whereby there runneth forth into the sea a certaine shelfe or slang like unto an out-thrust tongue such as Englishmen in old time termed a File whereupon the little village there Filey tooke name and more within the land you see Flixton where in King Athelstanes time was built an Hospitall for the defence thus word for word it is recorded of way-faring people passing that way from Wolves least they should be devoured Whereby it appeareth for certaine that in those daies Wolves made foule worke in this Tract which now are no where to be seene in England no not in the very marches toward Scotland and yet within Scotland there be numbers of them in most places This little territory or Seigniory of Holdernesse King William the First gave to Drugh Buerer a Fleming upon whom also he had bestowed his Niece in marriage whom when hee had made away by poison and thereupon fled to save himselfe hee had to succeed him Stephen the sonne of Odo Lord of Aulbemarle in Normandy who was descended from the Earles of Champaigne whom King William the First because hee was his Nephew by the halfe sister of the mothers side as they write made Earle of Aulbemarle whose posterity in England retained the Title although Aulbemarle be a place in Normandy His successour was William sirnamed Le Grosse whose onely daughter Avis was marryed to three husbands one after another namely to William Magnavill Earle of Essex to Baldwine De Beton and William Forts or de Fortibus by this last husband onely shee had issue William who also had a sonne named William His onely daughter Avelin being the wedded wife of Edmund Crouchbacke Earle of Lancaster dyed without children And so as wee reade in the booke of Meaux Abbay for default of heires the Earldome of Aulbemarle and honour of Holdernesse were seized into the Kings hands Howbeit in the ages ensuing King Richard the Second created Thomas of Woodstocke his Unkle and afterwards Edward Plantagenet Earle of Rutland the Duke of Yorkes sonne Duke of Aulbemarle in his fathers life time likewise King Henry the Fourth made his owne sonne Thomas Duke of Clarence and Earle of Aulbemarle which Title King Henry the Sixth afterward added unto the stile of Richard Beauchamp Earle of Warwicke for the greater augmentation of his honour EBORACENSIS Comiâ—aâ—us pars Septentrionalis vulgo NORTH RIDING NORTH-RIDING SCarce two miles above Flamborrough-head beginneth the NORTH-RIDING or the North part of this Country which affronting the other parts and beginning at the Sea is stretched out Westward and carrieth a very long Tract with it though not so broad for threescore miles together even as farre as to Westmorland limited on the one side with Derwent and for a while with the River Ure on the other side with Tees running all along it which on the North Coast separateth it from the Bishopricke of Durrham And very fitly may this part bee divided into Blackamore Cliveland Northallverton-shire and Richmond-shire That which lyeth East and bendeth toward the Sea is called Blackamore that is The blacke moorish land For it is mountanous and craggy The Sea coast thereof hath Scarborrough Castle for the greatest ornament a very goodly and famous thing in old time called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is A Burgh upon the Scar or steepe Rocke The description whereof have heere out of William of Newburgh his History A Rocke of a wonderfull height and bignesse which by reason of steepe cragges and cliffes almost on every side is unaccessible beareth into the Sea wherewith it is all compassed about save onely a certaine streight in manner of a gullet which yeeldeth accesse and openeth into the West having in the toppe a very faire greene and large Plaine containing about threescore acres of ground or rather more a little Well also of fresh water springing out of a stony Rocke In the foresaid gullet or passage which a man shall have much adoe to ascend up unto standeth a stately and Princelike Towre and beneath the said passage beginneth the City or Towre spreading two sides South and North but having the sore part Westward and verily it is fensed afront with a wall of the owne but on the East fortified with the rocke of the Castle and both the sides thereof are watered with the Sea This place William Le Grosse Earle of Aulbemarle and Holdernesse viewing well and seeing it to bee a convenient plot for to build a Castle upon helping Nature forward with a very costly worke closed the whole plaine of the Rocke with a Wall and built a Towre in the very streight of the passage which being in processe of time fallen downe King Henry the Second caused to bee built in the same place a great and goodly Castle after hee had now brought under the Nobles of England who during the loose government of King Stephen had consumed the lands of the Crowne but especially amongst others that William abovesaid of Aulbemarle who had in this Tract ruled and reigned like a King and possessed himselfe of this place as his owne Touching the most project boldnesse of Thomas Stafford who to the end hee might overthrow himselfe with great attempts with a few Frenchmen surprised this Castle of a sudden in Queene Maries Raigne and held it for two daies together I neede not to speake ne yet of Sherleis a Gentleman of France who having accompanied him was judicially endited and convict of high treason albeit he was a forrainer because hee had done against
change of one letter termed it Moult-grave by which name although the reason thereof be not so well knowne the world takes knowledge of it This Peter de Mololacu commonly called Mauley that I may in this point satisfie the curious borne in Poictou in France marryed the onely daughter of Robert de Turnham in the Raigne of King Richard the First in whose right he entred upon a very great inheritance heere after whom succeeded in order seven Peters called Lords Mauley who give for their Armes A Bend Sables in an Eschocheon Or. But when the seventh dyed issuelesse this the Manours of Dancaster Bainton Bridesalle c. were parted by the sisters betweene the families of the Salvains and Bigots Neere unto this place as elsewhere in this shore is found blacke Amber or Geate Some take it to be Gagates which in old time they held to be one of the rare gems and precious stones It groweth among the cliffes and rockes where they chinke and gape asunder Before it be polished it is of a reddish and rusty colour but after it bee once polished it becommeth as saith Solinus as a Gemme of a bright radiant blacke colour Touching which Rhemnius Palamon out of Dionysius Afer thus versifieth Praefulget nigro splendore Gagates Hic lapis ardescens austro perfusâ—s aquarum Ast oleo perdens flammas mirabile visu Attritus rapit hic teneras seu succina frâ—ndes The Geat is blacke and shineth passing bright Which Stone in water dipt and drencht takes fire and burneth light In oile a wonder for to see the flame is quickly done And like to Amber rub it hard small stickes it catcheth soone And Marbodaeus in his little booke of precious stones Nascitur in Lycia lapis prope gemma Gagates Sed genus eximium foecunda Britannia mittit Lucidus niger est levis lavissimuâ— idem Vicinas paleas trabit attritu calefactus Ardet aqua lotus restinguitur unctus olivo Geat is a Stone and Gemme well nere that men in Lycia finde But fruitfull Britan yeelds the best simply of all that kinde Of colour blacke yet bright it is most smoothe and light withall Well rubbed and enchaul'd thereby thin strawes and fescues small That are neere hand it drawes thereto it burnes in water drencht Annoint the same with fatty oile the flame streigthwaies is quencht Heare also what Solinus saith In Britaine there is great store of Gagates or Geat and an excellent stone it is If you demand the colour it is a bright radiant blacke if the quality it is in manner nothing weighty If the nature it burneth in water and is quenched with oile if the vertue being made hote with rubbing it holdeth such things as are applied thereto From Whitby the shore gives backe Westward by which lyeth Cliveland taking that name as it seemeth of steepe bankes which in our language wee call Cliffes for there runne all along the side thereof cliffie hilles at the foote of which the country spreadeth into a Plaine full of fertile fields Upon the shore Sken grave a little Village is much benefited by taking great store of fish where also by report was caught a Sea-man about 70. yeeres since that for certaine daies together fed of raw fishes but espying his opportunity escaped away unto his proper element againe Whensoever the windes are laied and that upon still weather the sea is most calme and the water lieth as one would say levell and plaine without any noise there is heard heere many times on a sudden a great way off as it were an horrible and a fearefull groning at which time the fishermen dare not launch out farre into the deepe as beleeving according to their shallow reach that the Ocean is a fell and cruell beast and being then very hungry desireth greedily in that sort to devoure mens bodies Beneath Sken-grave is situate Kilton Castle within a Parke which belonged sometime to the habitation of the Thwengs whose patrimony descended to the Barons of Lumley Hilton and Daubeneie And there joyneth almost close unto it Skelton Castle appertaining to the ancient family of the Barons Brus who derive their descent from Robert Brus the Norman The said Robert had two sonnes Adam Lord of Skelton and Robert of Anan-dale in Scotland from whom is descended the royall stem of Scotland But Peter Brus the fifth Lord of Skelton died without issue and left his sisters to inherite namely Agnes wife to Walter Falconberg Lucie wedded to Marmaduke Thweng of whom is come the Baron Lumley Margaret married to Robert Ros and Laderina to John Belle-eau men in that age of honourable reputation The heires successively of Walter Falconberg flourished a long time but in the end by a female the possessions came to Sir William Nevill who was a redoubted Knight for martiall prowesse and by King Edward the Fourth advanced to the title of Earle of Kent And his daughters were bestowed in marriage upon Sir John Cogniers N. Bedhowing and R. Strangwaies Neere unto Hunt-cliffe and not farre from the shore there appeare aloft at a vale water certaine Rockes about which the fishes that wee call Seales short as some thinke for Sea-veales meete together in droves to sleepe and sunne themselves and upon that rocke which is next unto the shore there lieth one as it were to keepe the Centinell and as any man approcheth neere he either by throwing downe a big stone or by tumbling himselfe into the water with a great noise giveth a signall to the rest to looke unto themselves and get into the water Most affraid they bee of men against whom when they chase them they being destitute of water fling backeward with their hinder feete a cloud as it were of sand and gravell stones yea and often times drive them away For women they care not so much and therefore whosoever would take them use to bee clad in womens apparell In the same coast are found stones some of yellowish others of a reddish colour and some againe with a rough cast crust over them of a certaine salt matter which by their smell and taste make shew of Coperose Nitre and Brimstone and also great store of Marquesites in colour resembling brasse Hard by at Huntly Nabb the shore that lay for a great way in length open riseth now up with craggy rockes at the rootes wherof there lie scattering here and there stones of divers bignesse so artificially by nature shaped round in maner of a Globe that one would take them to be big bullets made by the turners hand for shot to bee discharged out of great ordinance In which if you breake them are found stony serpents enwrapped round like a wreath but most of them are headles Then see you from thence Wilton Castle sometime the Bulmers and above it at Dobham the river Tees voideth into the Sea after it hath lodged sundry rivers and at the last one that is namelesse beside Yare
to yeeld much ground within their Confines yea and to render many Castles But this may suffice as touching Durham which I will take my leave of if you thinke good with a Distichon of Necham and an Hexastichon of John Jonston Arte sitúque loci munita Dunelmia salve Qua floret sancta religionis apex VEDRA ruens rapidis modò cursibus agmine leni Séque minor celebres suspicit urbe viros Quos dedit ipsa olim quorum tegit ossa sepulta Magnus ubi sacro marmore BEDA cubat Se jactant aliae vel religione vel armis Haec armis cluit haec religione potens Durham by art and site of place well fensed now farewell Where for devout Religion the Mitre doth excell The River Were that ranne most swift ere while with streame now soft And chanell lesse to famous men in towne lookes up aloft Whom once it bred and of whose bones in grave it is possest Where under sacred marble stone Great Beda now doth rest Of Armes or of Religion may other boast I grant For Armes and for Religion both this City makes her vaunt Concerning the Monkes that were cast out at the suppression of the Abbaies the twelve Prebendaries and two Arch-Deacons placed in this Church and the Priours name changed into the Dignity of a Deane I neede not to say any thing for they are yet in fresh memory And unwilling I am to remember how this Bishopricke was dissolved by a private Statute and all the possessions thereof given to Edward the Sixth when private greedinesse edged by Church-men did grinde the Church and withdrew much from God wherewith Christian Piety had formerly honoured God But Queene Mary repealed that Statute and restored the said Bishopricke with all the Possessions and Franchises thereof that God might enjoy his owne The Longitude of this City is 22. Degrees The Latitude 54. Degrees and 57. minutes Beneath Durham that I many not overpasse it standeth Eastward a very faire Hospitall which Hugh Pudsey that most wealthy Bishop and Earle of Northumberland so long as it was Being very indulgently compassionate to Lepres as Neubrigensis writeth built with coste I must needes say profuse enough but in some sort not so honest as who layed no small deall of other mens right so great was his power upon this devotion whiles hee thought much to disburse sufficient of his owne Howbeit hee assigned unto it revenewes to maintaine threescore and five Lepres besides Masse Priests From Durham Were carrieth his streame Northward with a more direct course by Finchdale where in the Reigne of King Henry the Second Goodrick a man of the ancient Christian simplicity and austerity wholly devoted to the service of God led a solitary life and ended his daies being buried in the same place wherein as that William of Neuborrow saith hee was wont either to lye prostrate whiles he prayed or to lay him downe when he was sicke Who with this his devout simplicity drew men into so great an admiration of him that R. brother unto that rich Bishop Hugh Pudsey built a Chappell in memoriall of him From thence Were passeth by Lumley Castle standing within a Parke the ancient seat of the Lumleies who descended from Liulph a man in this tract of right great Nobility in the time of King Edward the Confessour who marryed Aldgitha the daughter of Aldred Earle of Northumberland Of these Lumleies Marmaduke assumed unto him his mothers Coate of Armes in whose right hee was seized of a goodly inheritance of the Thwengs namely Argent of Fesse Gueles betweene three Poppinjaes Vert whereas the Lumleies before time had borne for their Armes Six Poppinjaes Argent in Gueles For she was the eldest daughter of Sir Marmaduke Thweng Lord of Kilton and one of the heires of Thomas Thweng her brother But Ralph sonne to the said Marmaduke was the first Baron Lumley created by King Richard the Second which honour John the ninth from him enjoyed in our daies a man most honourable for all the ornaments of true Nobility Just over against this place not farre from the other banke of the River standeth Chester upon the Street as one would say the Castle or little City by the Port way side the Saxons called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 whereupon I would deeme it to be CONDERCUM in which as the booke of Notices recordeth the first wing of the Astures in the Romanes time kept station and lay in Garison within the Line or precinct as that booke saith of the WALL For it is but a few miles distant from that famous WALL whereof I am to speake heereafter The Bishops of Lindifarre lived obscurely heere with the corps of Saint Cuthbert whiles the raging stormes of the Danes were up for the space of an hundred and thirteene yeeres In memory whereof when Egelricke Bishop of Durham layed the foundation of a new Church in that place he found such a mighty masse of money buried within the ground as is thought by the Romans that wallowing now in wealth he gave over his Bishopricke and being returned to Peterborrow whereof hee had beene Abbot before made causeies through the Fennes and raised other Workes not without exceeding great charges And a long time after Anthony Bec Bishop of Durham and Patriarch of Jerusalem erected heere a Collegiat Church a Deane and seven Prebends In which Church the Lord Lumley abovesaid placed and ranged in goodly order the Monuments of his Ancestours in a continued line of succession even from Liulph unto these our daies which he had either gotten together out of Monasteries that were subverted or caused to bee made a new And further within almost in the middest of the Triangle there is another little Village also knowne of late by reason of the College of a Deane and Prebendaries founded by that Antony Bec at Lanchester which I once thought to have beene LONGOVICUM a station of the Romanes But let us returne unto Were which now at length turneth his course Eastward and running beside Hilton a Castle of the Hiltons a Family of ancient Gentry venteth his waters with a vast mouth into the sea at Wiran-muth as Bede tearmeth it now named Monkes Were-mouth because it belonged to the Monkes Touching which mouth or out-let thus writeth William of Malmesbury This Were where hee entereth into the Sea entertaineth Shippes brought in with a faire Gale of Winde within the gentle and quiet bosome of his Out-let Both the Bankes whereof Benedict Bishop beautified with Churches and built Abbaies there one in the name of Saint Peter and the other of Saint Paul The painfull industry of this man hee will wonder at who shall reade his life for that hee brought hither great store of bookes and was the first man that ever procured Masons and Glasiers for windowes to come into England Five miles higher the River Tine doth also unlade it selfe which together with Derwent for a good way lineth out as it
stranger chance Here haply may he thinke he hath a sight againe of France What drew this place from thence their wit and spirit hot trow yee Or rather had the same at first by native propertie Now where the shore turneth inward a front Northward hard by the salt water of Tau there flourished in old time two goodly Abbyes Balmerinoch built by Queene Ermengard wife to King William daughter of Vicount Beaumont in France But lately King James of great Britaine advanced Sir Iames Elphinston to the honour of Baron Balmerinoch and Lundoris founded among the woods by David Earle of Huntington and at this day the Baronie of Sir Patrick Lesley betweene which standeth Banbrich the habitation of the Earle of Rothes strongly built castle wise But as touching the townes of Fife planted along the sea side have here now if it please you these verses of Master Ionston Oppida sic toto sunt sparsa in littore ut unum Dixeris inque uno plurima juncta eadem Littore quot curvo Forthae volvuntur arenae Quotque undis refluo tunditur orasalo Penè tot hîc cernas instratum puppibus aequor Urbibus crebris penè tot ora hominum Cuncta operis intenta domus foeda otia nescit Sedula cura domi sedula curaforis Quae maria quas non terras animosa juventus Ah! fragili fidens audet adire trabe Auxit opes virtus virtuti dura pericla Iuncta etiam lucro damna fuere suo Quae fecêre viris animos cultumque dedêre Magnanimis prosunt damna pericla labor Who sees how thicke townes stand upon this coast will say anone They are but one and yet the same all joyned in that one How many sands on crooked shore of Forth are cast by tides Or billowes at the seas returne beat hard upon bankes sides So many ships well neere you may here see to saile or ride And in those townes so thicke almost as many folke abide In everie house they ply their worke no idle drones they are Busie at home with diligence busie abroad with care What seas or lands are there to which a voiage for to make In brittle barkes will not their youth courageous undertake By valour be they growne to wealth yet valour meet with paines And perils too some losses too have they had with their gaines These things have made them valiant civill withall and courteous Losse perill painfull toile availe all such as be magnanimous The Governour of this province like as of all the rest in this Kingdome was in times past a Thane that is in the old English tongue The Kings Minister as it is also at this day in the Danish language but Malcolm Canmore made Macduffe who before was Thane of Fife the first hereditarie Earle of Fife and in consideration of his good desert and singular service done unto him granted that his posteritie should have the honour to place the King when hee is to be crowned in his chaire to lead the Vant-guard in the Kings armie and if any of them should happen by casualty to kill either Gentleman or Commoner to buy it out with a peece of money And not farre from Lundoris there is to bee seene a Crosse of stone which standing for a limit betweene Fife and Strathern had an inscription of barbarous verses and a certain priviledge of Sanctuarie that any Man-slaier allied to Macduffe Earle of Fife within the ninth degree if he came unto this Crosse and gave nine kine with an heiâ—er should bee quit of manslaughter When his posteritie lost this title I could never yet find but it appeareth out of the Records of the kingdome that K. David the second gave unto William Ramsey this Earldome with all and everie the immunities and law which is called Clan-Mac-Duffe and received it is for certaine that the linage of the Wemesies and Douglasse yea and that great kinred Clan-Hatan the chiefe whereof is Mac-Intoskech descended from them And the most learned I. Skerne Clerke of the Kings Register of Scotland hath taught mee in his significations of words that Isabel daughter and heire to Duncane Earle of Fife granted upon certaine conditions unto Robert the third King of the Scots for the use and behoofe of Robert Stewart Earle of Menteith the Earldome of Fife who being afterwards Duke of Albanie and affecting the Kingdome with cruell ambition caused David the Kings eldest son to be most pitifully famished to death which is highest extremitie of all miserie But his son Murdac suffered due punishment for the wickednesse both of his father and his owne sonnes being put to death by King James the first for their violent oppressions and a decree passed that the Earldome of Fife should be united unto the Crown for ever But the authoritie of the Sheriffe of Fife belongeth in right of inheritance to the Earle of Rothes STRATHERN AS farre as to the river Tau which boundeth Fife on the North-side Iulius Agricola the best Propretour of Britaine under Domitian the worst Emperour marched with victorious armes in the third yeere of his warlike expeditions having wasted and spoiled the nations hitherto Neere the out-let of Tau the notable river Ern intermingleth his waters with Tau which river beginning out of a Lake or Loch of the same name bestoweth his owne name upon the countrey through which he runneth For it is called Straith Ern which in the ancient tongue of the Britans signifieth the Vale along Ern. The banke of this Ern is beautified with Drimein Castle belonging to the family of the Barons of Dromund advanced to highest honours ever since that King Robert Stewart the third took to him a wife out of that linage For the women of this race have for their singular beautie and well favoured sweet countenance won the prize from all others insomuch as they have beene the Kings most amiable paramours Upon the same banke Tulibardin Castle sheweth it selfe aloft but with greater jollitie since that by the propitious favour of King James the sixth Sir Iohn Murray Baron of Tulibardin was raised to the honour and estate of Earle of Tulibardin Upon the other bank more beneath Duplin Castle the habitation of the Barons Oliphant reporteth yet what an overthrow the like to which was never before the Englishmen that came to aide King Edward Balliol gave there unto the Scots insomuch as the English writers in that time doe write that they won this victorie not by mans hand but by the power of God and the Scottish writers relate how that out of the family of the Lindeseies there were slaine in the field fourescore persons and that the name of the Haies had bin quite extinguished but that the chiefe of that house left his wife behind him great with child Not farre from it standeth Innermeth well knowne by reason of the Lords thereof the Stewarts out of the family of Lorn Inch-Chafra that is in the old Scottish
the Citie of Burdeaux with other Cities lying round about it which by the sedition of the Frenchmen had been at any time alienated from Edward King of England were restored unto him againe upon St. Andrewes even by the industrie of the L. Hastings MCCCIII The Earle of Ulster to wit Richard Bourk and Sir Eustace Pover entred Scotland with a puissant armie but after that the Earle himselfe had first made thirtie three Knights in the Castle of Dublin hee passed over into Scotland to aide the King of England Item Gerald the sonne and heire of Sir Iohn Fitz-Thomas departed out of this world In the same yeere Pope Boniface excommunicated the King and Queene of France and their children Hee renewed also all the priviledges granted at any time unto the Universitie of Paris and straight after the Pope was taken prisoner and kept as it were in prison three whole daies And soone after the Pope died likewise the Countesse of Ulster deceased Also Wulfrane Wellesly and Sir Robert Percivell were slaine the 11. day before the Calends of November MCCCIIII A great part of Dublin was burnt to wit the Bridge street with a good part of the Key and the Church of the Friers Preachers and the Church of the Monks with no small part of the Monasterie about the Ides of June to wit on the Feast day of S. Medard Also the first stone of the Friers Preachers Quire in Dublin was laid by Eustace Lord Pover on the Feast of S. Agatha Virgin Likewise after the Feast of the Purification of the blessed Virgin Marie the King of France invaded Flanders againe in proper person with a puissant armie Then bare he himselfe bravely in the war and fought manfully so long untill two or three horses of service were slaine under him but at last he lost his cap that under his helmet was put upon his head which the Flemings taking up carried by way of scornfull derision upon a lance as a banner and in all the famous Faires of Flanders put it out at the high window of some place or stately house like the signe of an Inne or Taverne and shewed it in token of victorie MCCCV Jordan Comyn with his complices slew Moritagh O-Conghir King of Offalie and Calwagh his whole brother and certain others in the Court of Sir Piers Brymgeham at Carrick in Carbrey likewise Sir Gilbert Sutton Seneschal of Weisford was slaine by the Irish neere unto a village or House of Haymund Grace which Haymund verily in the said skirmish manfully carried himselfe but stoutly escaped Item in Scotland the Lord Robert Brus Earle of Carricke forgetting his oath made to the King of England slew Sir John Rede Comyn within the cloisture of the Friers Minors of Dunfrese and soone after caused himselfe to be crowned King of Scotland by the hands of two Bishops to wit of S. Andrewes and of Glasco in the towne of Scone to the confusion of himselfe and of many others MCCCVI A great discomfiture was made in Offaly neere unto the Castle of Gesbill on the Ides of Aprill upon O-Conghor by O-Dympcies in which was slaine O-Dympcey Leader of the Regans with a great traine accompanying him Also O-Brene King of Towmond died Item Donald Oge Mac Carthy slew Donald Ruff that is the Red King of Desmund Item a lamentable defeature fell upon the part of Piers Brymegham the fourth day before the Calends of May in the Marches of Meth. Item Balymore in Leinster was burnt by the Irish where at the same time Henry Calfe was slaine and there arose war betweene the English and the Irish in Leinster for which cause there was assembled a great armie from divers parts of Ireland to bridle the malice of the Irish in Leinster in which expedition Sir Tho. Mandevil Knight and a brave warriour had a great conflict with the Irish neere to Clenfell in which conflict he behaved himselfe valiantly untill his horse of service was slaine and won much praise and honour by saving many a man and himselfe also Item M. Thomas Cantock Chancellour of Ireland was consecrated Bishop of Ymelasen in the Church of the holy Trinitie at Dublin with great honour at whose consecration were present the Elders of all Ireland where there was so sumptuous and so great a feast made first unto the rich and afterwards to the poore as the like had never been heard of before in Ireland Item Richard Feringes Archbishop of Dublindied in the Vigile of Saint Luke after whom succeeded Master Richard Haverings who occupied the Archbishoprick almost five yeeres by Apostolicall dispensation Who also resigned up his Archbishoprick after whom succeeded John Leth. The occasion and cause of his giving over as the Arch-deacon of Dublin of good memorie his Nephew hath reported was this for that one night hee dreamed that a certaine Monster heavier than the whole world stood eminently aloft upon his brest from the weight whereof he chose rather to be delivered than alone to have all the goods of the world but when he wakened hee thought with himselfe this was nothing else but the Church of Dublin the fruits whereof hee received and tooke no paines for the same As soone as hee could therefore he came unto the Lord the Pope of whom hee was much beloved and there renounced and gave over the Archbishopricke For hee had as the same Archdeacon avouched fatter benefices and livings than the Archbishopricke came unto Item Edward King of England in the feast of Pentecost that is Whitsontide made Edward his son Knight in London at which feast were dubbed about 400. Knights and the said Edward of Caernarvan newly knighted made threescore Knights of those abovesaid and kept his feast in London at the New Temple and his father gave unto him the Dutchy of Aquitaine Item the same yeere in the feast of Saint Potentiana the Bishop of Winchester and the Bishop of Worcester by commandement from the Lord the Pope excommunicated Robert Brus the pretended King of Scotland and his confederates for the death of Iohn Rede Comyn In the same yeere upon S. Boniface his day Aumarde Valence Earle of Pembroch and Lord Guy Earle ............ slew many Scots and the Lord Robert Brus was defeated without the town of S. Iohns And the same yeere about the feast of the Nativitie of St. Iohn Baptist King Edward went toward Scotland by water from Newarke to Lincolne Item the same yeere the Earle of Asceles and the Lord Simon Freysell and the Countesse of Carricke the pretended Queene of Scotland daughter of the Earle of Ulster were taken prisoners The Earle of Asceles and the Lord Simon Freysell were first torne and mangled As for the Countesse she remained with the King in great honour but the rest died miserably in Scotland Item about the feast of the Purification of the blessed Virgin Marie two brethren of Robert Brus professing pyracie went out of their gallies a land to prey and were taken with sixteen Scots besides and those two themselves
were torne and tormented at Carlele the rest hanged upon jebbits Item upon St. Patricks day there was taken prisoner in Ireland Mac-Nochi with his two sonnes neere unto New castle by Thomas Sueterby and there Lorran Oboni a most strong thiefe was beheaded MCCCVII The third day preceding the Calends of Aprill was Marcord Ballagh beheaded neere unto Marton by Sir David Caunton a doughtie Knight and soon after was Adam Dan slaine Also a defeature and bloodie slaughter fell upon the English in Connaght by Oscheles on Philip and Iacob the Apostles day Item the preading Brigants of Offaly pulled down the Castle of Cashill and upon the Vigill of the translation of Saint Thomas they burnt the towne of Ly and besieged the Castle but soone after they were removed by Iohn Fitz-Thomas and Edward Botiller Item Edward King of England departed this life after whom succeeded in the kingdome his sonne Edward who most solemnly buried his father at Westminster with great reverence and honour Item the Lord Edward the younger took to wife the Ladie Isabel daughter of the French King in St. Maries Church at Bologne and shortly after they were both crowned in the Church of Westminster Item the Templars in the parts beyond sea being condemned as it was said of a certaine heresie were apprehended and imprisoned by the Popes Mandat In England likewise they were all taken the morrow after the feast of the Epiphany Also in Ireland they were arrested the morrow after the feast of the Purification and laid up in prison MCCCVIII The second day before the Ides of April died Sir Peter or Piers Bermingham a noble vanquisher of the Irish. Item on the fourth day before the Ides of May was burnt the Castle of Kenir and certaine warders in it slaine by William Mac-Balthor and Cnygnismi Othothiles and his abetters More on the sixt day preceding the Ides of June Lord Iohn Wogan Justice of Ireland was defeated with his armie neere Glyndelory where were slaine Iohn called Hogelyn Iohn Northon Iohn Breton with many other Also the sixteenth day going before the Calends of July were burnt Dolovan Tobyr and other townes and villages bordering upon them by the foresaid malefactors Item in England shortly after was holden a great Parliament at London wherein arose a dissension and in manner a mortall conflict betweene the King and the Barons occasioned by Piers Gaveston who was banished out of the kingdome of England the morrow after the feast of Saint John Baptist his Nativitie and he passed over sea into Ireland about the feast of the Saints Quirita and Julita together with his wife and sister the Countesse of Glocester and came to Dublin with great pomp and there made his abode Moreover William Mac-Baltor a strong thiefe and an Incendiarie was condemned and had judgement in the Court of the Lord the King in Dublin before the chiefe Justice Lord John Wogan upon the twelfth day preceding the Calends of September and was drawne at horses tailes unto the gallowes and there hanged according to his deserts Item in the same yeere there was erected a certaine cisterne of marble to receive water from the conduict head in the Citie of Dublin such an one as never was there before by the dispose and providence of Master John Decer then Maior of the Citie of Dublin who of his owne money defraied the charges for the building thereof and the same John a little before the time caused a certaine bridge to be made beyond the river Aven-Liffy neere unto the Priorie of St. Wolstan also the Chappell of Saint Maâ—ie to the Friers Minours and there lieth he buried the Chappell likewise of Saint Marie to the Hospitall of Saint Johns in Dublin c. Item the same John Decer was very beneficiall to the Covent of the Friers Preachers in Dublin to wit in making one Columne of stone in the Church and giving one great broad altar-stone with the ornaments thereto belonging More upon the sixth day of the weeke hee entertained the Friers and tabled them at his owne charges thus say Elders to the younger in regard of charitie More in the Autumne Lord Iohn Wogan sailed over the sea unto the Parliament of England in whose place the Lord William Burke was made Custos of Ireland Item the same yeere in the Vigill of Simon and Jude the Apostles day the Lord Roger Mortimer arrived in Ireland with his wedded wife the right heire of Meth the daughter of the Lord Peter sonne of Sir Gefferie Genevil they entred I say into Ireland and took seisin of Meth Sir Gefferie Genevil yeelding unto them and entring into the order of the Friers Preachers at Trym the morrow after the day of St. Edward the Archbishop Also Dermot Odympoy was slaine at Tully by the servants of Sir Peter or Piers Gaveston More Richard Burgo or Burk Earle of Ulster kept a great feast at Whitsontide in Trym and dubbed Walter Lacie and Hugh Lacie Knights And on the even of the Assumption the Earle of Ulster came against Piers Gaveston Earle of Cornwall at Tradag And at the same time he went backe againe and tooke his passage into Scotland Item in the same yeere Maud the Earle of Ulsters daughter sailed over into England to contract marriage with the Earle of Glocester and soone after within one moneth the Earle and she espoused one the other Also Maurice Caunton slew Richard Talon and the Roches killed the foresaid Maurice Item Sir David Caunton is hanged at Dublin Item Odo the sonne of Catholl O-Conghir slew Odo O-Conghir King of Connaght Item Athi is burnt by the Irish. MCCCIX Piers Gaveston subdued the O-Brynnes Irishmen and re-edified the new Castle of Mackingham and the Castle of Kemny he cut downe and cleansed the Pas betweene Kemny Castle and Glyndelaugh mawgre the Irish and so departed and offered in the Church of Saint Kimny The same yeere Lord Piers Gaveston passed the seas over into England on the Vigil of S. John Baptists Nativitie Item the wife of the Earle of Ulsters sonne daughter unto the Earle of Glocester upon the 15. day of October arrived in Ireland Also on Christmas even the Earle of Ulster returned out of England and landed at the Port of Tradagh More on the feast of the purification of the blessed Virgin Mary Sir John Bonevile neere unto the towne of Arstoll was slain by Sir Arnold Pover and his complices and buried at Athy in the Church of the Friers Preachers Item a Parliament was held at Kilkenny in the Outas of the purification of the blessed Virgin Mary by the Earle of Ulster and John Wogan Lord Justice of Ireland and other Lords wherein was appeased great discord risen betweene certaine Lords of Ireland and many Provisoes in maner of Statutes were ordained commodious and profitable to the land of Ireland if they had been observed Item shortly after that time returned Sir Edmund Botiller out of England who there at London was before Knighted Item there crossed the
of the West Saxons built a Castle which Desburgia his wife raced and laid even with the ground after shee had expelled from thence Eadbritch King of the South-Saxons who now had made himselfe Lord thereof and used it as a bridle to keepe the countrey under that he had subdued When Edward the Confessour was King it paid tribute as wee find in the Kings Survey-Booke of England after the rate of fiftie and foure Hides and had in it threescore and three Burgers The Bishop of Winchester held it as Lord and his courts or Pleas were kept heere thrice in the yeere And these Customes appertaine to Taunton Burgherists Theeves Breach of peace hannifare pence of the Hundred and pence of Saint Peter de Circieto thrice in the yeere to hold the Bishops Pleas without warning to goe forth to warfare with the Bishops men The Countrey heere most delectable on every side with greene medowes flourishing with pleasant Gardens and Orchards and replenished with faire Mannour houses wonderfully contenteth the eyes of the beholders And among these houses those of greatest note are these Orchard which had in times past Lords of that name from whom in right of Inheritance it descended unto the Portmans men of Knights degree Hach Beauchamp and Cory Mallet bearing those additions of their Lords For this was the seat of the Mallets that came of the Norman race and from them in short time it fell by the female heire to the Pointzes From among whom in the raigne of Edward the First Hugh was ranged in the rank of Parliament Barons and out of that familie some remaine at this day of great reputation and Knights in their Countrey As for those Beauchamps or de Bello Campo they flourished in high places of honour from the time of King Henrie the Second but especially since that Cecilie de Fortibus which derived her pedigree from the Earles de Ferrarijs and that great Marshall of England William Earle of Pembroke matched in marriage with this familie But in the raigne of Edward the Third the whole inheritance was by the sisters divided betweene Roger de S. Mauro or Seimore I. Meries men of ancient descent and great alliance And hereupon it was that King Henrie the Eight when he had wedded Iane Seimor mother to King Edward the Sixth bestowed upon Edward Seimor her brother the titles of Vicount Beauchamp and Earle of Hertfort whom King Edward the Sixth afterwards honoured first wiâ—h the name of Lord and Baron Seimor to bee annexed to his other titles lest as the King saith in the Patent the name of his mothers familie should bee overshadowed with any other stile and yet afterward created him Duke of Sommerset As you goe from thence where Thone windeth himselfe into Parret it maketh a pretty Iland betweene two rivers called in times past Aethelingey that is The Isle of Nobles now commonly knowen by the name of Athelney a place no lesse famous among us for King Alfreds shrowding himselfe therein what time as the Danes now had brought all into broile then those Marishes of Minturny among the Italians wherein Marius lurked and lay hidden For touching that King an ancient Poet wrote thus Mixta dolori Gaudia semper erant spes semper mixta timori Si modó victor erat ad crastiná bella pavebat Si modó victus erat ad crastina bella parabat Cui vestes sudore jugi cui sica cruore Tincta jugi quantum sit onus regnare probarunt With dolour great his joyes were mixt his hope was joyn'd with dread If now he victour were next day of warres he stood affraid If vanquisht now the morrow next forthwith hee thought it good For to prepare for warre his sword was aye begoard in blood His garments eke with painfull sweat were evermore bestain'd Which well did shew what burden great he bare while that he raign'd And in truth this Isle afforded him a very fit shrowding corner for that by reason of waters partly standing there in plashes and partly resorting reflowing thither which Asserius termed Gronnas Latinizing a Saxon word there is in manner no accesse into it It had sometime a bridge betweene two castles built by Aelfred and a very large grove of Alders full of goates and wild beasts but of firme ground scarce two acres in breadth on which as saith William of Malmesbury whose words these are and not mine hee founded a little Monasterie the whole frame whereof hanged upon foure maine posts pitched fast in the ground with foure round isles of Sphaerick work contrived and brought round about the same Not far from this Isle Parret having received the said river runneth alone swelling with certaine sandy shelfes sometime in his channell by the Hundred of N. Pederton anciently acknowledging the Bluets to have beene Lords thereof who are thought to have brought that name from Bluet in litle Britaine Heere it taketh into him an other river from East to beare him company which openeth it self neere Castle Cary which William Lovell Lord thereof held against K. Stephen in the behalfe of Mawd the Empresse right inheritrix of the Crown of England whose issue male failing in the time of King Edward the Third by heire female it came to Nicolas de S. Maure a Baron of a distinct familie from that which was a few lines before mentioned and shortly after about the time of Henrie the Fift by an heire female againe to the Lord Zouches of Harringworth as a moitie of the lands of Lord Zouch of Ashby de la Zouch came before by coheires to the house of this S. Maures But when the Lord Zouch was attainted by K. Henrie the Seventh for assisting King Richard the Third this Castle was given by the K. to Robert Willoughby Lord Brooke as his lands at Bridge-water to the Lord Daubency and then hee was restored in bloud From Castle Cary this water passeth by Lites-Cary to bee remembred in respect of the late owner Thomas Lyte a gentleman studious of all good knowledge and so to Somerton the Shire towne in times past as which gave the name thereto A Castle it had of the West Saxon Kings which Ethelbald King of Mercia forcing a breach through the wals sieged and kept But now time hath gotten the mastry of it so as that there is no apparance at all thereof and the very Towne it selfe would have much a doe to keepe that name were it not for a Faire of oxen and other beasts which is kept there from Palme-Sunday untill the midst of Iune with much resort of people for that the countrimen all there about are very great Grasiers breeders and feeders of cattell No sooner hath Parret entertained this river but he speeds him apace toward a great and populous towne commonly called Bridg-water and is thought to have taken that name of the Bridge and water there but the old records and evidences gaine say this opinion wherein it is