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A30869 The French perfumer teaching the several ways of extracting the odours of drugs and flowers and making all the compositions of perfumes for powder, wash-balls, essences, oyls, wax, pomatum, paste, Queen of Hungary's Rosa Solis, and other sweet waters ... : also how to colour and scent gloves and fans, together with the secret of cleansing tobacco and perfuming it for all sorts of snuff, Spanish, Roman, &c. / done into English from the original printed at Paris.; Parfumeur françois qui enseigne toutes les manieres de tirer les odeures des flours. English Barbe, Simon. 1696 (1696) Wing B689A; Wing F2192_CANCELLED; ESTC R20672 43,178 142

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your Moulds as you have done before and dry them A Receipt to dissolve Gum to make the Paste for Pastils DIssolve your Gum in what fort of Water you please but the Water must not be over it above an Inch because you must not drown it presently and when it has soakt in the Water pour some more fresh and so by degrees till your Gum is dissolved it must not be too liquid but softish and well melted then use it A Receipt to make perfum'd Paste for Beads and Medals TAKE of Marechal-powder and make Paste of it with Gum-Adragant and Arabick dissolved with Millefleur-water and if your Paste is too soft put some more Powder to it if 't is too stiff put more Gum more or less of both will do rub your Moulds with Essence of Flowers that the Paste should not stick to them that Paste will be of Coffee-colour Another sort TAKE some Perfumes good to perfume other Powders and make them in a Paste with Gum dissolved in Orange-flower-water pour over it half a Spoonful of Amber the Pestle will be white and if you mix a little Vermilion you may make it as red as you please You may make it of a yallow colour in putting some Oker in Powder Another sort TAKE half of Cyprus-powder and half of Frangipane-powder make a Paste with Gum dissolved with millefleur-Millefleur-water The Paste is grey and of a very sweet Smell Another sort TAKE fine Marechale-powder and half as much of fine Powder of angel-Angel-water Dregs make a Paste with some Gum dissolved as before your Paste will be very good Another sort TAKE some perfumed Cyprus-powder Frangipane-powder and Perfumes to perfume other Powder of all the same quantity and make a Paste with Gum dissolved with Orange-flower-water pour over it a little of Essence of Amber The Paste will be of Ash colour very fine and of a sweet and pleasant Smell You may make all these Pastils of a strong and good Smell as much as you please put only more or less Amber Musk and Civet in the Powders or Waters dissolved with the Gum. A Receipt to prepare the Gums for the said Pastes DIssolve the Gum of Adragant after the same manner it is prescribed in the Receipt before that of the Pastes mentioned You must add to a Porringer of that Gum half a Glass of Gum-Arabick pretty thick then mingle them together and use them A Treatise of gross Powders a la Marechale and how to use them Gross Powder a la Marechale TAKE a Pound of Iris twelve Ounces of Orange-flowers dry four Ounces of Coriander half a Pound of Roses of Province two Ounces of angel-Angel-water Dregs an Ounce of Calamus two Ounces of Souchet half an Ounce of Cloves beat all them Drugs in the Mortar one after another then mix them well together and 't is done Another sort TAKE twelve Ounces of Iris half a Pound of Orange-flowers dry four Ounces of Roses of Province four Ounces of Wood of Roses one Ounce of Benjamin half an Ounce of Limon Peels dry as much of Orange Peels dry half an Ounce of Marjoram dry an Ounce of Souchet half an Ounce of Calamus two Gros of Cinnamon half an Ounce of Cloves two Ounces of Wood of Sendal Citrain beat all the Drugs one after another in a Mortar mix them very well together your Powder is good Another Sort. TAKE a Pound of Iris Powder half a Pound of Orange-flowers dry four Ounces of Roses of Provins two Ounces of Wood of Sendal Citrain one Ounce of Orange-peels dry half an Ounce of sweet Marjoram as much of Lavender dry an Ounce of Calamus two Ounces of Souchet one Ounce of Benjamin half an Ounce of Storax and half an Ounce of Labdanum beat all them Drugs in a Mortar one after another and mix them very well the Powder is made You may add to all these Powders sweet Woods A Receipt for sweet Bags TAke twelve Ounces of common Rose Leaves a Pound and half of Lavender twelve Ounces of sweet Marjoram Leaves four Ounces of Myrrh Leaves six Ounces of Thyme Leaves four Ounces of Melilot Leaves one Ounce of Rosemary Leaves an Ounce of Bay-leaves two Ounces of Cloves half beaten an Ounce of musked Rose-leaves as much as you can of Orange-flowers and of Carnation-flowers put all these in a Pot making a bed of Flowers and a bed of Salt and so again till your pot is full stop it well and stir it every other day with a Stick exposing it to the hot Sun in the Summer but take it away when it Rains and an hour before the Sun setting at a Years end fill your sweet Bags with your prepared Drugs adding to it some Cypress Powder Perfum'd as you think fit Rose Buds TAKE what quantity of Rose-Buds you please the closest Green and in their room put as many Cloves dry them in the Sun between two Papers they 'll be very good to put in your sweet Bags You may if you will expose them to the Sun in an Earthen Pot covered with Paper and sprinkle them with the best Angel-water and being dry use them as before Orange Flowers dry DRY in the Sun what quantity you will of Orange flowers between two Papers very close round about being dry keep them for your use Little sweet Bags CUT little Silk Bags square sow them round about leave only a slit and put in twelve Ounces of Marechale Powder sow up the slit and 't is done After a while if the Bags have lost their smell take out the Powder and beat it in a Mortar put it again in your Bags and it will be sweet as before Another sort CUT your Silk Bags as before without sowing them lay upon one peice of your Bag some of the gross Marechale Powder then put over it a Bed of Cotton Perfum'd an Inch thick strew the same Powder over the Cotton then cover it with the other peice of Silk and sow your Bag without shaking it quilt it and 't is done You may trim it with Ribbons or what you please in the four corners of the Bags Sweet Bags to wear about you TAKE some rich silk cut your Bags of four Inches square longer if you will rub the wrong side of the Silk with Civet then fill them with gross Marechale Powder of what sort you will add to it few Cloves and a little of the wood of Sendal Citrain both beaten it will strengthen and revive the sweet smell Your bags being full sow them and trim them if you will Another sort CUT your fine silk Bags as before of four Inches and fill them with these Compositions Beat in a little Mortar eight Grains of Musk and pour over it half a spoonful of Millefleur Water add to it four grains of Civet beat them with the Musk pour over it four Drops of Balm of Peru and a spoonful of several sorts of Water having mingled the whole together very well with the Pestle rub the wrong side of your Bags gently with
it then fill them with the Composition in the first Receipt of sweet Bags with Cyprus Powder Perfum'd well mixt together sow your Bags trim them as fine as you will they are done Another sort TAKE the finest Silk cut your Bags a little bigger than others before and fill them with the following Perfumes Heat the bottom of a little Mortar melt in it eight Grains of Amber mix with them four Grains of Civet beaten small with the Pestle then pour gently over it two Spoonfuls of Millefleur Water with the bigness of a Pea of Gum Arabick dissolved with the same Water rub a little the wrong side of your Bags with the same Composition then fill them with Cyprus and Frangipane-Powders Perfum'd in the same quantity mix with it little bits of Bladder of Musk sow your Bags c. Fine Basket of Ozier Perfumed to keep Ladies Cloths in GET a Basket of fine Ozier of what bigness you will take as much of Silk as you want to line it stretch your Silk over an Imbroidering frame then over the Silk a Bed of Perfumed Cotton of the thickness of two Crown Peices strew over the Cotton some of the Marechal Powder and over the Powder some of the Sendal Citrain Wood well beaten then cover it all with the other piece of Silk quilt it in Lozinges This done cut your Silk according to the bottom of your Basket of the sides and the cover bind the edges with silk Galoon of the same colour of your Silk then sew it to the Basket very well Pockets perfum'd for ladies THE same Stuff Perfumes and Quilting as in the last Receipt will serve to Perfume Pockets cut your Stuff only for Pockets bend round the Seams with Silk Galoon and they are made Boxes perfum'd for Perriwigs THE Perriwig-boxes must be of Wood an Inch thick half an Ell long round at the ends and in the shape of a Perriwig To line it stretch on a Frame a bit of Silk and lay over it a Bed of Cotton well perfum'd thin and even strew over the Cotton the best Powder a la Marechale not too coarse and over that Powder a little of Sendal Citron-wood beaten very small Then cover it all with the finest Taby rubb'd before with the following Preparation Quilt your Silk and cut it according to the shape of your Box and the cover bind the edges with Silk Galoon of the same colour of the Tabby then line the in-side of the Box the out side must be covered with a perfum'd sweet Skin and the edges of the Skin cover'd with a gold or silver Galoon the Lock and Key gilt over How to perfume the wrong side of the Tabby WARM the bottom of a little Mortar then melt in it ten Grains of Amber stirring it with the Pestle pour four drops of Orange-flower-water add to it six Grains of Civet then mix it all together very well and pour over two Spoonfuls of Millefleur-water and a piece as big as a Pea of Gum-Arbick dissolved with the same Water the whole being well mixt rub gently with it the wrong side of the Tabby with a bit of Spunge and 't is done Boxes perfum'd to keep Linnen THOSE Boxes must be lined within cover'd and perfum'd after the same manner as the Perriwig-boxes the shape only of these must be like a little Trunk to keep fine Linnen for Persons of Quality To Perfume Toilets SWEET Toilets may be prepared of two sorts the first which differs nothing from the lining of the Perriwig-boxes is thus prepar'd Take as much Silk or Stuff as you will have your Toilet stretch it on a Frame lay over it a Bed of Cotton perfum'd and the Powder over the Cotton cover it with what Silk you will and Quilt it If the out-side of your Silk was not thick enough to endure the Preparation you rub it with add to that Composition some of the Millefleur-water have a sufficient quantity of Cotton to soak it then dry it and lay a Bed very thin and even all over your Powder or in many places and cover it all with your Silk well quilted and your Toilet is done Sweet Toilets as they prepare them at Montpellier TAKE new Linnen Cloth very strong not too thick cut it according to your Toilets dip them and wash them in several Waters then lay them in angel-Angel-water all night dry them well and perfume them thus Beat in fine Powder and pass it through a hair Sieve two Pounds of Iris a Pound of Campane-root two Ounces of Wood of Roses and four Ounces of Sendal-Citrain one Ounce of Calamus two Ounces of Souchet half an Ounce of Cinnamon two Gros of Cloves and half an Ounce of Labdanum then mix them all together put them in a Mortar and pour over some Gum-Adragant dissolved with angel-Angel-water the Gum must be very thin put Water enough that the Paste be fine and liquid rub your Toilets with that Paste on both sides as hard as you can rub them even then let them dry being almost dry take a Spunge dipt in Angel-water rub your Toilets with it to make them smooth let them dry again and they are done When they are dry fold them as you will have them and keep them between two Cloths Another Preparation of the same THE Cloths being washt clean and dry as before make use of this Composition Beat very well one after another and pass very fine through a hair Sieve the following Drugs two Pounds of Iris a Pound of Campane-root two Ounces of Lemon-peels an Ounce of dry Orange-peels an Ounce of Cloves half a Pound of Benjamin four Ounces of Storax two Ounces of Souchet and one Ounce of Labdanum mix them all together and make a Paste very thin as in the former Receipt rub your Cloths prepare them as before and 't is done Perfumes to wear about you BEAT in a little Mortar the bigness of a Pea of Benjamin pour over it a few drops of Balm of Peru then add to it four Grains of Civet stir it and mix it well with the Pestle and put it with Cotton in your Perfume-box Another sort WARM the Mortar and melt in it four Grains of Amber infused in a few drops of Essence of Amber put to it two Grains of Civet mix it all and put it with Cotton in your Sweet Box. Another sort WARM the Mortar pretty hot as before melt in it six Grains of Amber dissolved with four drops of Millefleur-water add to it four Grains of Musk stir and bruise them all together put it into your little Box with Cotton rub'd with a Grain of Civet Another sort BRuise in the Mortar four Grains of Musk and two Grains of Civet pour over it four drops of Balm of Peru gather it up with Cotton and put it in your little Box. Another sort WARM the Mortar and melt in it twelve Grains of Amber and six Grains of Civet dissolved with some drops of Water then take a little Cotton dipt in a few drops
moist The Manner of Colouring Skins and Gloves YOU must Grind upon a Marble Stone the Colours you like best with a little of Ben Oyl or with Essence of Jasmin or Orange-flowers being well Grinded pour some Orange-flower-water by degrees Grinding still to mix them well then lay your Colour by upon the Marble bruise as much of Gum of Adragant as of Colour your Gum must be dissolved with Orange-flower-water then mix the Gum and the Colour together pour over it a little Orange-flower-water put the whole in an Earthen Pan pour more Water as much as you think fit Take care not to make it too thick then rub your Gloves or Skins with it with a Brush and let them dry in the Air after that rub them and stretch them with Sticks then Grind a little bit of your Colour with a bit of Gum of Adragant infused in Orange-flower-water and very clear rub your Gloves or Skins with it dry them again rub them and dress them again that last laying will keep the Colour a long while Mixture of Colours Isabella lively A Great deal of White half as much of Yellow and two thirds of Yellow and Red. Isabella Pale A great quantity of White half as much of Yellow and half as much of Red. Nut Colour Take some Ombre Earth used by Painters for shadowing a little of Yellow a little of White and a very little of Red. Light Nut-Colour The same Earth burnt as much Yellow a little of White and the same quantity of Red. Brownish Nut-Colour The same Earth burnt a little of black Stone of Yellow and Red. Amber Colour Much of Yellow little of White and Red. Gold Colour Great deal of Yellow with a little Red. Flesh Colour A little of Yellow and White and more Red then Yellow Straw Colour Much of Yellow little of White very little Red and a great deal of Gum. Brown Colour The same Earth burnt very much of black Stone a little of Black and Red. Light Brown The same Earth burnt a little of the black Stone a little of Red and White Frangipane Colour A little of the same Earth twice as much of Red and three times as much of Yellow Light Frangipane Little of the same Earth great deal of Yellow little of White and the same quantity of Red as Yellow Olive Colour The same Earth a little of Yellow the quarter part of Red and Yellow Wood Colour A great deal of Yellow little of White little of the said Earth and half as much of Red as of yellow Treatise of Snuff The manner of making Snuff IF your Tobacco is in Roles unrole it and dry it in the Sun if it is in Leaves dry it in the same way and being dry beat it in a Mortar The Sieve you make use of must be of Cloth pretty thin to let the biggest Grains of your Snuff pass through you must Sift presently what you beat for if you beat it too long you 'll reduce to Dust what is in Grains the whole being in Powder wash it after this manner How to Cleanse Snuff TAke a Bucket or another Vessel alike bigger then it need to contain the Snuff you will cleanse the Bucket must have a stop to let the Water out when you will line your Vessel within in the bottom and round about the edges with a Napkin of very strong and thick Cloath lest the Snuff should pass through Put your Snuff in the Vessel with Water enough to dip it well stir it in the Water and let it soak till the next day then pour the Water out and squeeze it as much as you can out of the Cloath pour in it more fresh Water and wash your Snuff again and let it soak as before do so at least two or three times at once This being done you 'll squeeze at last your Snuff as much as you can then get some Ozier hurdles covered with strong and thick Cloth and dry over them your Snuff in the Sun don't fail to stir it every minute to have it dry all over when it is very dry put it in your Bucket again with a good quantity of sweet Perfum'd Water of what sort you like best Roses Angel or Orange-flower-water are the best for Snuff Let it be in that Water till the next day then take it out squeeze it gently and let it dry again upon your hurdles stirring it very carefully while it is a drying being dry pour over more of the same Water again making it in a kind of a Paste let it be dry once more being thus dryed and cleansed it will easily take all manner of Smells of Flowers This way to cleanse Snuff is the best for the Snuff will the better take the smell you will give it it is true you cannot do it without wasting your Snuff very much but if you will spare sweet Waters and not lose much of your Snuff here is another manner of cleansing it Another way of Cleansing Snuff PUT your Snuff to soak in the Water only once for four and twenty Hours then let the Water out and squeeze the Snuff very well in the Cloth dry it upon hurdles stirring it as before being dry pour sweet Water over it and make it as a Past dry it again and pour more Water to it and dry it again then it is fit to receive what smell you please If you will Colour it Yellow or Red you must do it before you Perfume it with Flowers How to Colour Snuff of Yellow or Red Colours TAKE some Oaker Red or Yellow which you will suppose the bigness of an Egg mix with it fine white Chalk to temper the Colour a little bruise them upon a Marble Stone with half an Ounce of Oyl of sweet Almonds being well mixt pour to it some Water by degrees and mix it in the mean while till it is well mix't with the Water lay your Colour aside of the Marble then dilute two Spoon●uls of Gum Adragant liquid mix it with your Colour and Grind them again to mix them very well pouring in the mean while Water over it Then put the whole in an Earthen Pan pour more Water stirring it always to the quantity of a Pint or thereabouts This done take what quantity of Snuff cleansed you please and put it in a Pan or Vessel and pour over it your Colour working and mixing it very well with your Hands making it like a Paste not-very liquid but well soaked leave your Snuff in the Colour till the next day then dry it in the Sun upon Cloths stir it as fast as it dries being dry prepare a Gum to Gum it after this manner Bruise upon a Marble Gum Adragant dissolved in sweet Water pour over it some Water bruising still and make your Gum very thin and clear pour it in a Pan that you may easily put some more Water in it wet your Hands with that Gum and rub your Snuff and work it with your Hands till it is Gumm'd every where
doing till the whole be wasted then you must do this Put in the Mortar half a gros of Civet and a bit of Sugar as big as a Walnut beat your Civet with the Sugar very small put to it by degrees some Powder stirring it with the Pestle then turn it in a Sieve sift it gently then put into the Mortar again the lumps made by the Civet beat them once more throwing over some Powder as before and you must continue to do so till the whole be very fine then mix it all together and your Powder will be excellent That Powder is of pleasant Smell and of Ashes colour very good for all sorts of Colours of Hair Another sort MIX Powder of Moss or Cyprus with Starch-Powder in the same quantity and put Flowers as you do to Orange and Jasmin-flowers Powder and when you think fit Perfume them with Amber and Civet as 't is said before and it will be very good Another sort HAving observed one of the two last Receipts for the Powder of Frangipane if you have a mind to have it Musked instead of half a gross of Civet to the same quantity of Powder put only eighteen Grains and half a Gros of Musk beat it small with a little Sugar after the same manner you use it with the Civet and the Smell will be extraordinary Sweet How to perfume the Powder of Cyprus or Moss of Oak as they do at Montpellier TAKE two Pounds of Powder of Moss of Oak cleansed with Flowers as 't is said in its place infuse in it eighteen Grains of Civet with a little Sugar as I said before then put with it half a gros of Musk after the same manner this being done put it in a Box very close it will be of an extraordinary fine Smell a little will serve to Powder the Hair and give it a sweet Smell Fine Powder called a la Marechale fit and very good to make Paste for the Beads of Necklaces TAKE two Pounds of Moss of Oak a Pound of Starch-Powder an Ounce of Cloaves beaten an Ounce of Calamus in Powder two Ounces of Souchet two Ounces of rotten Wood mix the whole well together and your Powder will be done The rotten Wood must be of Oak because being red it gives a fine colour to the Powder Of Wash-balls How to cleanse Soap TAKE a Cut of Soap scrape it well cut it in thin Slices and put them in a great Kettle over the Fire with four or five Pints of Water stir it with a Stick till the Soap be quite melted pour it afterwards in some Vessels and let it lye several days till it be hard then cut it as thin as you can and let it dry till it be as hard as Wood put it after that in some Vessels or Basons and pour over it Brandy enough to allay it you must throw some Salt in it and turn it that the whole be well soaked then let it dry again in the Air being very dry when you have occasion for your Wash-balls you must soften as much as you want You will find a Receipt how to soften it in this Treatise Common Wash-balls TAKE five Pounds of Soap scrape it put it in a Mortar and beat it a long while then handle and work well your Soap that you may take out the little bits that have not been beaten put your Soap into the Mortar again mix in it two Pound of Starch-powder an Ounce of Essence of Citron or of Orange and about half a Pint of macanet-Macanet-water prepared as I 'll tell you by and by stir the whole gently with the Postle and beat it long enough to mix it well and it is done you need no more but to role your Paste as you will to make your Wash-balls Let them dry if your Paste is too soft it will harden of it self Macanet-water is made thus Beat four Ounces of Macanet in a Mortar soak them in a Pint of Water no longer than from one day to another strain the Water through a Linnen Cloth and squeeze the Macanet very well you must after that allay with the same Water two Ounces of Cerus beaten in Powder add to it a handful of Salt and you may use it as I said before Another sort AFter you have beaten five Pounds of Soap as before and taken out the Lumps you must put your Soap into the Mortar again and throw into it two Pounds of Starch-powder half a Pint of Macanet-water prepared as I said before a Spoonful of Oyl of Aspick half an Ounce of Orange or Citron two Spoonfuls of liquid Storax prepared as hereafter stir it all gently with the Pestle beat it very well till the whole be well mixed together and it is done You must prepare the liquid Storax thus Put an Ounce of Storax in an Earthen Pan with half a Glass of Water stir the Storax with a Spoon while it is melting and being melted use it as I said Another sort MELT five Pounds of Soap cut it in slices very thin pour in a Pint of Citron-water being well melted strain it through a Linnen Cloth not very fine put to it two Pounds of Starch-powder an Ounce of Essence of Orange or Citron two Ounces of Cerus allay'd with a Glass of Water you must work your Paste well with your Hands till the whole be well mixed and when your Paste is very stiff role your Wash-balls of what bigness you please and dry them To Compose the Citron-water you must cut in bits half a dozen of Lemons old or new 't is no matter let them boyl in a Pint of Water half an hour then squeeze them through a Linnen Cloth and you may use that Water Wash-balls of Neroly TAKE eight Pounds of dry Soap and cleansed as we said before and put it in a Bason pour in it Orange-flowers or Rose-water as much as will cover the Soap to allay it well You must take care to stir twice a day the Soap till it has soaked the Water and be soft again keep it so till it is fit to be beaten beat it then a long while and work it well to take out the Clods which are left Put your Soap into the Mortar again put to it a Pound of Labdanum in Powder very fine and two Ounces of Neroly mix and stir them together gently with the Pestle then beat the whole a long time to mix it well and 't is done If your Paste is too hard pour a little Orange-flower-water the Paste will be good and being made stiff role your Wash balls and dry them Wash-balls of Bolognia YOU must take three Bundles of common Wash-balls of Bolognia beat them in a Mortar to Crums then put them in a Bason pour in the Bason Angel-water enough to cover the Paste let it soak till it is soft and that will be in two or three days in the mean time stir it and turn it twice a day and when all the Water is gone and the Paste is hard
and stiff beat it a long while then work it well to take out the Clods afterwards divide your Paste into two even Cakes then do this Take half a Pint of Angel-water and the same quantity of Rose-water put in the little Mortar two gross of Musk with a little of the Angel-water to dissolve it beat it pouring in always of that Water then strain it through a Linnen Cloth not too fine nor too course scrape after that with a Spoon the Musk left in the Linnen and beat it again pouring a little of the said Water and continue so doing till the Musk be infused and melted with Angel and Rose-waters wash the Linnen with the same Water to cleanse and take away all the Musk The whole being well mixt put all the Water in a Glass bottle to use it as you 'll see hereafter Take one of the said two Cakes of Paste which you must beat to bits in a Mortar throw upon it a good handful of Labdanum-powder very fine half an Ounce of Balm of Peru a few drops of Essence of Neroly about half a Pint of the said Water stir and mix all gently with the Pestle then beat it all together a long while to mix well the Paste and 't is done And as you have done to the first Cake do the same to the other and cover them together very close that they may have time to take the Scent of the Sweets then your Paste being stiff role it as you please to make your Wash-balls and dry them Bolognia Wash-balls the best TAKE three Bundles or little Boxes of Bolognia Wash-balls beat them and dip them in Angel-water enough to cover your Paste as we said before Besides Angel-water add to it half a Pint of Benjamin-water beat that Paste and turn it upside down twice a day that the whole be well mixt the Water being gone and the Paste stiff beat it afterwards and work it well to take out the Clods and the whole being reduced into a Paste make two Cakes alike of it then do this Beat half an Ounce of Musk in a little Mortar pouring in it angel-Angel-water as before in the Receipt of other Wash-balls at last infuse your Musk beating and straining it through a Linnen Cloth with half a Pint of Angel and rose-Rose-water then use it thus Take one of the two Cakes beat them to bits in the Mortar and pour over the Cake two Ounces of Balm of Peru some drops of Essence of Neroly a good handful of composed Powder viz. a third of fine Powder a la Marechale a third of Powder of Campane-root a third of Labdanum-powder and half a Pint of the abovesaid Water prepared with the Musk mix the whole together very well beat it a long while and your Paste is made the Smell of it will be very pleasant Role your Wash-balls when your Paste is stiff what you have done to one of the Cakes you may do to the other Wash-balls well perfumed TAKE three Bundles of Bolognia ordinary Wash-balls beat them in a Mortar allay them with Angel and Benjamin-water as we said before being beaten again and made in Paste divide them in two Cakes alike and prepare it thus Beat very small half a gross of Civet in a little Mortar with two Ounces of Balm of Peru which you must drop in by degrees Add to it two gross of Essence of Amber some Essence of Cloves and as much of Cinnamon mingle the whole very well together and keep it to use it thus Put in the Mortar one of the two Cakes broken in bits throw over two handfuls of prepared Powder viz. a third of Labdanum-powder a third of fine Powder a la Marechale a third of Powder of Campane root put also to it half of that Composition and half a Pint of Millifleur Water half an Ounce of Essence of Neroly mix the whole well together and when you have beaten it long enough to mingle it all very well your Paste is made You may use the same Receipt for the other Cake left Another Receipt to perfume Wash-balls TAKE three Bundles of the same Bolognia Wash-balls beat them in a Mortar dip them and make a Paste as I said before the Paste being divided into two even Cakes break one in bits put it in a Mortar with a handful of Labdanum-power a handful of the dregs of the Angel-water beaten in Powder an Ounce of Balm of Peru half an Ounce of Essence of Neroly and half a Pint of Millifleur Water mix the whole gently with the Pestle then after you have beat it a long while 't is done You may do the same to the other Cake of Paste If you cannot have Bolognia Wash-balls make use of Soap cleansed as is prescribed in the beginning of this Treatise it is very good for all sorts of Wash-balls Take of it three or four Pounds or more instead of every Bundle of Bolognia Balls and for want of Powders mentioned before in the Preparation of Wash-balls you may make use of the Dregs of Angel-water beaten and sifted very fine through a Sieve the Balls will be as good observe that all the Powders must be very fine Excellent Benjamin-water PUT in a thick Glass-bottle a Pint of Spirit of Wine and a Pint of Brandy half a Pound of Benjamin a quarter of a Pound of Storax half an Ounce of Cloves an Ounce of Cinnamon and four Nutmegs all well beaten being in the Bottle stop it well and let it stand upon Sand in the Sun in the heat of the Summer for a Month and 't is done Take it away when it Rains and let the Bottle be very large leaving an empty space of four Inches at least or else the Spirit of Wine being hot will certainly break the Bottle If you think your Benjamin-water is not red enough at the time limited that it should be enough beat in a little Mortar some Orkanet of the bigness of a Bean dissolve it with some of your Benjamin-water pour it in the Bottle and let it stand in the Sun two or three days and 't is done A Receipt to prepare Spunges for the Face CHoose the best and finest Spunges cut what is superfluous about them then dip them in Water a little while wash them after that and cut them well changing Water till the last Water be very clean then dry them being dry dip them in Angel-water or in Orange-flower-water pour over them half a Spoonful of Essence of Amber your Spunges having lain in Water a whole day take them out do not squeeze them much and dry them they are done A Treatise of Essences and Oyls perfumed with Flowers How to make Essences of Flowers IT is easie to draw Essences out of all manner of Flowers though they are of different sorts for if you can make of one you may make of all others Here is a general Receipt for all the Flowers which have any Smell Take a Deal Box of what bigness you please Tin it within
THE FRENCH PERFUMER Teaching the several ways of Extracting the Odours of Drugs and Flowers and Making all the Compositions of Perfumes for Powder Wash-balls Essences Oyls Wax Pomatum Paste Queen of Hungary's Rosa Solis and other Sweet Waters The Manner of Preparing Sweet Toilets Boxes c. with the Preparations and Use of Perfumes of all kinds whatsoever ALSO How to Colour and Scent Gloves and Fans Together with the Secret of Cleansing Tobacco and Perfuming it for all sorts of Snuff Spanish Roman c. Done into English from the Original Printed at Paris LONDON Printed for Sam. Buckley at the Dolphin over against St. Dunstan's Church in Fleet-street 1696. TO THE READER THE Origine of Perfumes is as Ancient as the Creation of the World when the whole Earth was a delicious Garden exhaling the sweetest Smells Art that never Injures Nature but rather improves it in succeeding Times collected what that good Mother had scattered in several places to Compound agreeable Mixtures of Sweets After innumerable Observations upon repeated Experiments this Art is brought under infallible Rules to its utmost Perfection by help of such Rules which I had learnt from the best Masters and made use of a long time I have collected the Secrets which I now present to the Publick This Treatise is not designed to instruct Artists who have particular Rules of their own which though by different Methods lead them to the same end but compiled for the Publick Good which with me is the best reason for doing it and for which therefore I shall not ask their Pardon Persons of Quality and Condition will find here in a short View a Variety of Sweets for various Uses if they can afford themselves leisure enough to gather Flowers at their Country Seats and make use of them for Perfumes they may not only agreeably divert themselves in the Operation but likewise save the Expence of buying them at Extravagant Rates in Shops The Fair Sex especially whose natural Graces receive so Charming a Lustre from Neatness will find enough in this Treatise to gratifie their Curiosity If any Difficulties arise they are explained in my Advertisements I would not insert them through the body of the Book because the Reader might more easily find them there and not be puzzled in preparing my Receipts Those who are read in the Holy Scriptures will not disapprove of my Design if they consider that there was in the Old Testament an Altar whereon they burnt nothing else but Perfumes and that it is expresly written in several places in the Bible that God delighted in Sweet Smells Scentings prescrib'd and so exactly observ'd in the ancient Law are further Instances of the Antiquity and use of Perfumes Solomon had a great many Women who prepared Perfumes for his own use The Queen of Sheba who came so far to see that Wise King presented him with several Perfumes Some of the Offerings made to our Saviour by the Wise Men were Perfumes and Mary Magdalene could not express her love better to Jesus Christ than in washing his Feet with Sweet Oyntment But to leave the Holy History and mention the Esteen they are in our days our present King has diverted himself very often in seeing Mr. Martial compose in his Closet several Sweets which His Majesty was pleased to wear about himself The Prince of Conde whose Memory will be ever precious to France pleased himself often in seeing Mr. Charles Scent Snuff and make other Perfumes which His Highness made particular use of The Powder that we call a la Marechale took its name from my Lady Marechale d' Aumont who delighted in preparing it Whosoever would imitate these great Persons and pass the time away in making Perfumes c. will find great assistance in this little Book and I assure them they will succeed infallibly provided they follow my Directions for there is not one Receipt in it which I have not tryed my self with all the Success imaginable THE TABLE A List of the Ingredients of Perfumes and Remarks on them Page 1 c. Advertisements concerning the Principal Compositions 9 Powders POwder of Common Roses for Hair 23 Powder of Musked Roses 24 Powder of Orange flowers ibid. Powder of Jasmin 25 Powder of Jonquils ibid. Powder of Ambret 26 Powder to perfume other Powders ibid. Powder washt with Brandy 27 Powder of Violets or Iris Powder ibid. Powder of Moss of Oak called Cyprus Powder 28 Powder of Frangipane 29 Another sort of the same 30 Another sort 31 The manner of perfuming Powder as they do it at Montpellier ibid. Fine Powder a la Marechale good to make Pasts for Beads and Medals 32 Wash-balls THE manner of cleansing Soap 32 Common Wash balls 33 Another sort 34 Another sort 35 Neroly Wash-balls 36 Bolognia Wash-balls 37 Bolognia Balls the best 38 Wash-balls well perfum'd 40 Another sort 41 Benjamin-water the best 42 Spunges prepared for the Face 43 Essences and Oyls perfumed with Flowers HOW to make Essences of Flowers 44 Essence of Millefleur or of several sorts of Flowers 46 Olive Oyl perfum'd with Flowers 47 Oyl of Sweet Almonds perfumed and Paste to wash hands ibid. Essence of Neroly 49 Essence of Bergamot or Cedra 50 Essence of Orange strong ibid. Essence of Citron or Lemmon 51 Of Pomatums POmatum perfum'd with Flowers 53 Pomatum good to refresh the Complexion and take off the redness of the Face 55 Another sort of Pomatum very good for the Face 56 Another sort very fine for the Face 57 Pomatum for the Lips 58 Receipt to make a liquid Paste of Almonds to wash hands without Water 59 Opiate in Powder to cleanse the Teeth 60 Another sort ibid. Another sort ibid. Receipt to make liquid Opiat 61 Perfumes good for the Mouth ESsence of Amber 62 Essence of Hypocras 63 Cachoo perfum'd with Amber very good for the Mouth 64 Pastils perfum'd good to eat 65 Excellent Hypocras perfum'd 66 Rosa Solis or perfum'd Liquor ibid. Another Liquor perfum'd 67 Perfum'd Sweet Waters ANgel-water boyled 68 Another sort 69 Millefleur-water or of all sorts of Flowers ibid. angel-Angel-water distill'd in Mars balneo 70 carnation-Carnation-water 71 Cinnamon water ibid. thyme-Thyme-water ibid. Orange flower-flower-water distill'd in a cold Still 72 rose-Rose-water 73 Queen of Hungary's water ibid. Pastils to burn ORdinary Pastils 74 Pastils of Roses made into Wax-Candles 75 Spanish Pastils ibid. Portugal Pastils 76 Receipt to dissolve Gum to make the Paste for Pastils 77 Receipt to make perfum'd Paste for Beads and Medals ibid. Another sort 78 Another sort ibid. Another sort ibid. Annother sort 79 Receipt to prepare Gums for the said Pasts ibid. Gross Powders a la Marechale and how to use them GRoss Powder a la Marechale 80 Another sort ibid. Another sort 81 Receipt for Sweet Bags 82 Rose buds 83 Orange-flowers dry ibid. Sweet Bags 84 Another sort ibid. Sweet Bags to wear about you 85 Another sort ibid. Another sort 86 Baskets of Ozier Perfum'd to keep Ladies Cloths in 87
Citron Bergamotte Essence of Citron is drawn from the Lemons distilled and that of Orange from Oranges distilled You have now the difference between Essences and Oyls The Flowers which we may use in our Climate to make Essences and Oyls for Hair and Perriwigs are Jasmin Orange flowers Tuberose Jonquil Musk-roses because they are most common and have the strongest Smell the other Flowers have a Smell too weak Every body knows the Sun gives the strong Smell to the Flowers therefore we cannot make use of all sorts of Flowers as in hot Countries Of Pomatums Perfumed with Flowers POmatums Perfumed with Flowers are not good for the Face but only for Hair they are not now so much used as they have been formerly the Oyls are more convenient I must say however that if Oyls are more convenient for Perriwigs Pomatums are more fit to clean Womens Heads and at the same time to nourish the Hairs and so they are always very useful If you will have your Pomatum take the very Smell of the Flowers it is necessary to clean well with Water the leaf of the Hogs Fat which it is prepared withal observe that chiefly Of Perfumes for the Mouth AMber is extraordinary good for the Stomach too much Musk is offensive to the Mouth so the less you can put in your Compositions it is the better Remember to put no Civet it is very hurtful to the Mouth Of Sweet-waters ANgel-waters are made after several ways which come to the same thing if you remember all the Drugs which compose them and know the quantity as you will learn by my Receipts you may make it as good as you please in using more or less Drugs You must only observe that if you make it in a close Copper pot it will be thick and muddy but if you distil it in an Alembick it is clear like Rock-water though it has the same Smell as the other The Queen of Hungary's Water cannot be made here so good as at Montpellier because 't is made there of Rosemary-flowers which are there in great Plenty However the Water we make with Rosemary-leaves is very good and has the same Vertue Concerning Waters made of Flowers There is only Orange flowers and Roses you can make Water of all other sorts are adulterated Several have tried to make Jasmin-water but could not succeed the reason why is easie to be found A Flower to make Water of must have a good Body or Substance else it must be a Flower of an Aromatical Tree as Rosemary or Myrrh whose Leaves you may distil because they have a strong Smell As for Example Take Orange flowers or Roses and rub your Hands with them and they 'll smell stronger than before But on the contrary If you do the same with Jasmin or Tuberose they will be so far from communicating their Smell that they 'll be reduced into Dung and will stink By this you may judge that though some pretend to sell Water made out of Carnations there is no such thing because that Flower has not strength enough to produce any but because it smells much like Cloves the Water made out of them is sold for the Water of Carnations Of Sweet Balls to burn TO compose Pastils good for burning you must not mix any thing with them but what is fit to burn and smoak sweetly therefore if you put in Drugs they are as good as lost As for Example Put Civet in them it will rather stink than smell well and put a Grain of Civet in the Fire it will stink so will the Musk but burn Amber c. it will Smoak a very fragrant Smell Of gross Powders put in little Sweet Bags and Toilets OBserve that all these sorts of Preparations though different have all relation one with another because they are all of a strong Smell and the best way to prepare them is to mix all the Drugs with such Dexterity and Caution that one can hardly distinguish which of all the Smells prevail you 'll know how to do it if you read and follow the Directions I give in my Receipts mixing more quantity of sweet and strong Smells with less quantity of weakest Smells and if you have failed in your Composition there is a remedy for it in mixing more or less proportionably Of Aromatick Herbs THE Aromatick Herbs are not very necessary in Perfumes but because some make use of them I have prescribed how to prepare them though I must confess all the Pains you can take will never make them more Pleasant and Sweeter This sort of Herbs keeping so well their Smell that it is almost impossible to qualifie them we mix them with other Drugs which cannot be alter'd or we make a sort of Preparation you 'll see in our Receipts Of Perfumes that we wear about us ALL the Perfumes we wear about us must be of sweet and pleasant Smell use no great quantity of Musk nor Civet and never without mixing them for pure Musk makes ones Head ach and the Civet alone is not Sweet you must prepare them by the mixture of other Smells not so strong read my Receipts Of Preparations to perfume Gloves or Skins THESE Preparations being made with the dearest and most precious Drugs as Amber Musk Civet Sweet-waters Sweet Essences c. you must be very careful to mix nothing with them but strong Smells or Essences for though these Perfumes are strong enough it is certain that if they are mixed with other contrary Perfumes they are presently spoiled and lose their Vertues On the other side All the Sweet Smells preserve themselves one with another Perfumes made of them last for ever when well prepared and used To keep them Sweet a long time they must be very well dressed and cleansed 'T is the chiefest thing Of Tobacco ONE of the hardest Receipts in Perfumes is that of Perfuming Tobacco with Flowers for Tobacco having a very strong Smell must consequently be very well cleansed and the strong Smell taken away to be fit to take another Sweeter And it is certain that if you do not cleanse it extraordinary well it will never take well the Smell of Flowers or if it does you 'll be oblig'd to use as much more Flowers than it needs besides the Smell will never last long All other Perfumes you put in it as Amber Musk Civet will signifie nothing if your Tobacco is not perfectly clean the Smell will never be pleasant and the strong Smell of Tobacco will in a little while alter all other Perfumes In short It can never be good therefore never be concerned if your Tobacco wastes in cleansing it you will not lose much of it if you sift it in a strong fine Cloth and you 'll be sure that the Smell of it when well perfum'd will keep a whole year sound and good The ways how to do it are easie as you 'll see in the Treatise of Tobacco The Time to gather Flowers WHEN you will use Flowers for Gloves Essences
a Bason and cool it before you pour it in Bottles If you want more of that Water fill your Pot as before and boyl it the same that second Water will be almost as good as the first you may mix them together if you will This done take out the Dregs left in the bottom of the Pot before they be cold dry them and make Pastils as before in the Receipt of Pastils or else you may use them in several Preparations as I said in the Treatise of Wash-balls Another sort PUT in the Pot two Pints of Orange-flowers and as much of Rose-water then put the same Drugs and in the same quantity as in the former Receipt all but Lemons add only a Bladder of Musk Let it boyl after the same manner and having taken your Water out of the Pot take also the Dregs and dry them they are very good to make Pastils to burn Millefleur or several sorts of Flower-water POUR in a Glass-bottle a Pint of good Angel-water then beat twelve Grains of Musk in a little Mortar allay them with that Water and pour it all in a Bottle well stopt Keep it for your use Instead of Musk you may put a Gros of the Bladder of Musk cut small and it is very good Angel-water distill'd in Mare Balneo TAKE a Glass Alembick of three pieces the top or the head the Bombe and the long narrow-necked and round-belly'd Bottle You must have also a Furnace to burn Charcoals and a Kettle or other Vessel alike deep enough to keep the Water and set the Alembick Paste some double Paper round about the Bombe just at the place where the head lyes put the Bottle or Matras at the end of the Pipe to receive the distilling You must put in the Bombe a Pint of Water four Ounces of Benjamin two Ounces of Storax half an Ounce of Cinnamon two Gros of Cloves all well beaten a bit of Calamus and a Gros or the eighth part of an Ounce of the Bladder of Musk the Water distilled out of all these will be of an extraordinary Sweet Smell and very clear Put the Dregs left in the bottom to dry and make Pastils of them to burn Carnation-water PUT in a Glass Alembick as before a Pint of Water and two Ounces of beaten Cloves the Water distilled will have a pleasant Smell because the strength of the Cloves being sweetned by the Water smell rather of the Carnation than the Cloves Cinnamon-water YOU must put in a Glass Alembick as before a Pint of Water and two Ounces of Cinnamon well beaten and the distilled Water will have the natural Smell of Cinnamon Thyme-water PUT a Pint of Water in the same Glass Alembick and two handfuls of Thyme the distill'd Water will smell naturally of the Thyme All Aromatick Herbs may be distill'd after the same manner those Herbs being very strong keep their Smell as well dry as green so it is easie to distil from them Waters in reading the aforesaid Receipts Orange-flower-water distilled in a cold Still INfuse two Pounds of Orange-flowers dry in two Pints of Water three or four hours then pour it in the Still and distil it as in the former Receipt the Water distill'd out of it is good for a great many things as for Wash-balls to make angel-Angel-water to cleanse Snuff and serves to perfume all sorts of Skins and Gloves rose-Rose-water INfuse three Pounds of Roses in two Pints of Water two or three hours then distil them in the Still as you do the Orange-flowers observe the same Rules for they are made after the same manner you may put less Water and make it stronger But as Rose-water is very much used in cleansing Snuff and Orange-water also you must distil enough when you use it for that purpose when you use it for other things you may make it as strong as you will as I said before The Queen of Hungary's Water POUR in a strong Glass-bottle two Pints of Spirit of Wine two good handfuls of Rosemary-leaves a handful of Thyme half a handful of Sweet-Marjoram the Leaves only and as much of Sage stop the Bottle very well expose it in the Sun a whole Month then you must dissolve the bigness of a Bean of Orcanet with a little Spirit of Wine bruise the Orcanet pour it in your Bottle and expose it again to the Sun four or five days and 't is done It will be of a fine Red of a sweet Smell and very strong Receipts to make Pastils to burn Ordinary Pastils BEAT in a Mortar a Pound of common Benjamin half an Ounce of Cloves two Gros of Cinnamon a bit of Calamus searce them all together through a hair Sieve then dissolve in Water some Gum of Adragant put in the Mortar your Powder searced with a Porringer of that Gum mingle them and beat them together to make a Paste of it if your Paste is too soft add to it more Powder that way the Paste is easily done you have nothing else to do but to flat your Paste with a Roling-pin and shape your Pastils in your Moulds as 't is before in the Receipt of Pastils for the Mouth dry them and they are done Pastils of Roses made into Wax-Tapers BEAT and searce through a Hair Sieve a Pound of angel-Angel-water dregs as in the first Receipt of Waters use no Lemons and being in Powder you must put in the Mortar a handful of Leaves of Roses fresh and new gather'd and a Porringer of Gum of Adragant dissolved in Rose-water beat the whole together a long while to make well the Paste then flat it with a Roling-pin and cut it with a Knife into Lozinges To shape them in little Tapers take bits of them role them in your hands like Wax-Candles as long as your Finger make one end flat to stand and dry That sort of Pastils light like Candles and burn to the very last they give a most sweet and fragrant Smoak Spanish Pastils BEAT in Powder and searce through a Hair Sieve the Dregs of Angel-water as in the second Receipt of Angel-water water dissolve Gam of Adragant in Orange-flower-water and make a Paste of it in the Mortar with your Powder then cut your Pastils with your Moulds dry them and they are done Portugal Pastils YOU must beat and searce through a Hair Sieve the best Dregs of Angel-water then dissolve some Gum of Adragant with Orange-flower-water and make your Paste in the Mortar with your Powder and your Gum as before observe only you must make your Paste a little more thick Then warm the bottom of the Mortar and the end of the Pestle and by its heat melt twenty Grains of Amber-griese or black Amber pour over it half a Spoonful of Millefleur-water to dissolve it you must pour of that Water to the quantity of half a Wine-glass then set your Mortar over a Chasing-dish of Fire and your Composition being hot pour it over your Paste mingle it well and 't is done Shape your Pastils to
grind alone as big as a Small nut Gum of Adragant dissolved with Orange flower-water after that mix your Civet dropping a little of the Millefleur-water continue so doing till it is all well mixt together then put your Composition in the Mortar pour more Water in it stirring it till it is reduced to a quarter of a Pint then lay your Perfume very even on your Gloves with a Spunge dry them in the Air upon a Line being dry rub them open them and Perfume them with Flowers as before Perfumes made with Musk. GRind upon a Marble Stone two Gros of Musk with three Drops of Essence of Flowers as before and being well mixt let them lye on the corner of the Marble then grind half a Gros of Civet with a few Drops of the same Essence lay it on another corner of your Marble then grind as big as a Nut Gum of Adragant dissolved with millefleur-Millefleur-water mixt with three or four Drops of Essence of Amber after that mix them all together very well with the last Water dropping it gently and when the whole is well mixt with the Water put it in a Mortar pouring more Water and stirring it with the Pestle till it is reduced to half a Pint then rub your Gloves and Skins and let them dry Another sort GRind upon a Marble half a Gros of Civet with 3 or 4 Drops of Essence of Flowers being Grinded put it aside then grind Gum Adragant the bigness of a Small-nut dissolved with Millefleur Water then mix your Drugs together with Millefleur Water dropping it by degrees and when it is all well mixt put it in a Mortar pouring more Water to the quantity of half a Pint then lay it over your Gloves with a Spunge dry them and rub them open them and dress them again they will be well Perfum'd Perfume of Ambret MIX on the Marble Stone half a Gros of Civet with four Drops of Orange-flowers or any other being well mixt put it by then mix as big as a Small-nut Gum of Adragant dissolved in Orange-flower-water after that mix them well all together then warm pretty hot the little Mortar infuse in it one Gros of Amber with a little of Essence of Orange-flowers pouring some of it by degrees till it is reduced to a quarter of a Pint mix again your Civet with a few Drops of Orange-flower-water and being well mixt put it all in the Mortar and mix it well filling with more Water your Mortar to the quantity of half a Pint lay it over your Gloves or Skins with a Spunge and dry them in the Air. Perfume of Rome GRind on a Marble half a Gros of Civet with a few Drops of Essence of orange-flower-Orange-flower-water or other Essence put it by then mix Gum of Adragant of the bigness of a Small-nut dissolved with Orange-flower-water mix it all together very well then warm the little Mortar and infuse in it one Gros of Amber with a few Drops of Orange-flower-water pouring more to it by degrees till the whole comes to the quantity of a quarter of a Pint then mix again your Civet with some Drops of Orange-flower-water put it all together and mix it very well with more Water till it is reduced to half a Pint Perfume your Gloves or Skins with it and dry them Another sort GRind on a Marble half a Gros of Musk with a few Drops of millefleur-Millefleur-water lay it by then bruise as big as a Small nut Gum of Adragant dissolved in Orange-flower-water mix after that the Musk with the Gum dropping Orange-flower-water being all well mixt Warm the little Mortar and melt a Gros of Amber diluted with four Drops of Essence of Amber being well infused and melted pour to it a little of Millefleur-water then put your Musk and Amber in the Mortar mix them very well together with the Pestle pouring a Spoonful of Gum Arabick-water fill your Mortar with Orange-flower-water to the quantity of half a Pint and when you will Perfume your Gloves put the Mortar over a Chafing-dish of Fire to keep it warm and use it as before Spanish Perfume GRind upon a Marble Stone eighteen Grains of Civet with a few Drops of millefleur-Millefleur-water lay them by bruise Gum of Adragant as big as a Small-nut dissolved in Millefleur-water then mix the Civet and the Gum together very well pouring more of the same Water till the whole comes to a quarter of a Pint Perfume your Gloves with that Composition and dry them being dry rub them and open them Grind one Gros of Musk upon a Marble with four or five Drops of Millefleur water being well mixt put it by then warm pretty well the little Mortar and melt two Gros of Amber with half a Spoonful of millefleur-Millefleur-water to dilute it being melted and mixt with that Water put to it your Musk and mix them all very well together with the Pestle pouring over it half a spoonful of Essence of Cloves pour more of the same Water and fill your Mortar to the quantity of half a Pint add to it two Spoonfuls of Gum arabick-Arabick-water when you use that Composition wash it over a Chafing-dish and Perfume your Gloves or Skins Perfumed Gloves and Skins with Amber YOU must grind upon a Marble eighteen Grains of Civer with half a Spoonful of orange-flower-Orange-flower-water then lay it aside bruise Gum of Adragant of the bigness of a Small-nut diluted in Orange-flower-water then mix the Civet with the Gum together pouring some of the same Water by degrees to the quantity of a quarter of a Pint so Perfume your Gloves and Skins rub it with a Spunge After that warm the little Mortar and dissolve two Gros of Amber with half a Spoonful of orange-flower-Orange-flower-water and four or five Drops of Essence of Amber your Amber being dissolved pour to your Preparation some of the same Water stirring it with the Pestle till it is reduced to a quarter of a Pint add to it two Spoonfuls of Gum of Arabick-water All being well mixt together warm your Perfume in the Mortar over a Chafing-dish and lay it over your Gloves with a Spunge and dry them When your Gloves and Skins are Perfumed let them dry upon Lines then stretch them with Sticks dress them again and lay them up But Gloves of Dogs or Kids Skins must be Oiled being dry rubbed and stretched within turn them the wrong side out and prepare them after this manner Preparation to Oyl Gloves on the wrong side BRuise two Gros of Essence of Amber and two Grains of Civet with an Ounce of Essence of Orange-flowers or Jasmin upon your Marble and mix them well together then lay it over the wrong side of your Gloves with a Spunge dry them in the Air dress them again and they are done Observe that the last Perfume you use and the most necessary to all sorts of things you will keep is to dry well before the Fire the Sheets of Paper you fold your Perfume in for tho' they look dry they are always
over then let it dry stirring it every minute Being very dry pass your Snuff through the finest Sieve you can find it will at that time be fit to be Perfum'd with Flowers or any other Perfume Snuff Perfum'd with Flowers THE Flowers much used for Perfuming Snuff are orange-flower-Orange-flower-water Jasmin common Roses musqued Roses and Tuberoses other Flowers can hardly Perfume naturally unless you use a great quantity of them and add to them some Essence of the same Flowers as you 'll see in the Receipts for Perfuming Snuff but when all is done the smell never last long as in other Perfumes Here is the manner how to use them in Perfuming Snuff Get a Wooden Box as big as you have occasion for line within with dry Paper lay in it a Bed of Snuff an Inch thick then a Bed of Flowers and so along till you have no more of it let it lay so in the Flowers Twenty four Hours then searce your Snuff to take out the Flowers and renew them at the same time continue so doing four or five days and when you think your Snuff is Perfum'd enough with Flowers keep it very close in your Boxes in a very dry place don't meddle with it when the Flowers are within because it will not heat Another manner of Perfuming Snuff with Flowers GET a good quantity of Sheets of Paper dryed before the Fire of the bigness and shape or thereabouts of your Boxes prick them all over with a big Pin then to Perfume your Snuff with Flowers lay a Bed of them an Inch thick in the Box and over one Sheet of that Paper and over the Paper a Bed of Flowers and another sheet of Paper over the Flowers lay over that sheet another Bed of Snuff and continue so doing till you have none left So the Flowers are between two Papers and the Snuff too without touching the Flowers and by that means the Snuff takes naturally the Smell of the Flowers because the same Smell is not corrupted or alter'd by the Snuff Change your Flowers according to the Plenty you have of them and when you take them out take up only the sheets of Paper and pass your Snuff through a fine hair Sieve to let your Snuff through and keep in the Flowers Flower it so four or five days and 't is done Snuff perfum'd with Buds of Roses TAKE as much Buds of Roses as you will pluck out the green knots and in their room put as many Cloves Then throw them in a Glass-bottle well stopt expose the Bottle to the hot sun three Weeks or a Month you may use them after to perfume your Snuff being cleansed they will give a very sweet Smell to it Snuff perfum'd with a great many sorts of Flowers NOthing else is to be done but to mix together Snuff perfum'd with several sweet Flowers and to prepare it so well by more or less of it that you can hardly discern which Smell prevails and 't is done The manner of making Snuff in Grains of different bigness GET several sorts of Sieves some of thin others of very thick Cloth and so according to the courseness of your Cloth you 'll make the Grains of your Snuff in passing it through you must not searce it but when it is perfum'd with Flowers Fine Spanish Snuff THE true Spanish Snuff is very fine and redish to make it take red Snuff in Grains beat it in a Mortar and pass it very fine through a Sieve and being cleansed before it is colour'd as I prescribe in the beginning of this Treatise perfume it only with Flowers then with some Spanish Perfume or other and 't is done To perfume Snuff well it is not enough to perfume it with Flowers you must use other Perfumes it is true being only perfum'd with Flowers it may be good to be perfumed with the Perfumes we mention hereafter I leave it to every ones Fancy I 'll say only this That the Smell of Flowers does very well mixt with the most sweet and precious Smells and that they are of a stronger and more lasting Vertue I do not mention here several Perfumes very ordinary which every one may compose according to his Fancy I give only the Receipts of the best and most Curious it is easie for any body that understands the Smells good for Perfumes to make them How to Perfume Snuff in Grains with Perfumes of different Smells Cedra or Bergamot Snuff IT is not necessary to use Snuff perfumed with Flowers to perfume it with Bergamot Essence it is enough if the Snuff is well cleansed the reason is because the Essence of Bergamot is of a very strong Smell and penetrates it all over Therefore pour only a few drops of it in an Ounce of Snuff mingle it well and 't is done Snuff of Neroly THE Essence of Neroly being of a very strong Smell use it as you have done the Essence of Bergamot the Smell is strong and very fine if you do not put too much for it works through more than the Essence of Bergamot observe that if you will have Snuff of Neroly the Essence must be true and pure for if it is mixt in the least your Snuff will in time be of a Smell very unpleasant Pongibon Snuff TAKE a Pound of yellow Snuff perfum'd with Orange flowers beat in a little Mortar twelve Grains of Civet with a bit of Sugar being well beaten and mixt with a little of your Snuff continue to pour it in the Mortar mixing it still with the Pestle till the Mortar is full then take it out of the Mortar add the remnant of the Pound of your Snuff to what was in the Mortar and mix it very well with your hands After that fill your Mortar half full of the same Snuff and pour over it half an Ounce of Essence of Orange-flower-water mixing it still with the Pestle then fill up the Mortar with your Snuff to mix the better the Essence Take the Snuff out of the Mortar again and mix it well with the other that was left and your Snuff is done It will be of a very sweet and lasting Smell and though your Essence is very oily your Snuff will not be so nor the worse if you do not put more than I prescribe If the Snuff is perfumed with Jasmin-flowers make use of Essence of the same Flowers and so of other Flowers All sorts of Snuff may be perfumed the same way Snuff perfum'd with Musk. TAKE Snuff perfum'd with what sort of Flowers you like best suppose a Pound put in a little Mortar twenty Grains of Musk with a bit of Sugar beat them together then put by degrees your Snuff in the Mortar till it is full stirring it all still with the Pestle then take it out and mix it very well with the rest of your Snuff Snuff perfum'd with Spanish Perfume TAKE a Pound of Snuff perfum'd with any sort of Flowers beat in a little Mortar twenty Grains of Musk with a little lump of Sugar then put in gently your Snuff stirring it still Your Mortar being full empty it by and cover it with the rest of your Snuff least it should lose its Vertue Then beat in the Mortar ten Grains of Civet with a bit of Sugar and put your Snuff gently to the top mixing it still take it out and mix it very well with your hands with the r●●… Snuff perfum'd with Perfume of Rome TAKE a Pound of Snuff of what Perfume of Flowers you please warm the little Mortar very well and melt in it twenty Grains of Amber put in your Snuff by degrees and stir it still till your Mortar is half full then take the Snuff out put it by and cover it with the rest This being done beat in the same Mortar ten Grains of Musk with a bit of Sugar throwing over it your Snuff and being well mingled mix it with the other and cover it again you must also beat five Grains of Civet with a bit of Sugar mingle it with some of your Snuff take it out again and mix the whole together very well your Snuff will be well perfumed Snuff perfumed with Perfume of Maltha TAKE a Pound of Snuff perfum'd with Orange-flowers warm the little Mortar and melt in it twenty Grains of Amber mix with it a little Snuff putting always some of it in the Mortar and stirring it wth the Pestle till your Mortar is full then take the Snuff out and cover it with part of the rest left beat after that in the Mortar ten Grains of Civet with a little Sugar throwing more Snuff and mixing it then take it out and mix the whole very well together Snuff Amber'd TAKE a Pound of Snuff of any Flowers warm the Water and melt in it twenty four Grains of Amber throw over some Snuff gently mixing it still with the Pestle till the Mortar is full take it out and mix it with the rest that is left 't is done As in Perfumes every one has his Opinion and a great many perhaps love Snuff very well perfum'd some will have it of a sweet Smell and yet strong I hope I have pleased them in my Receipts For if the Smells are too strong let them put more Snuff to it after it has been perfum'd and it will be sweeter more or less will do the business because the Preparations are good but above all keep your Snuff very close in your Boxes least it should be spoiled and lose its Vertue and Smell FINIS ORoonoko A Tragedy Written by Tho. Southerne Printed for S. Buckley * Cedra is a kind of Citron-Tree