yet less astringent and so harmless that it may safely be eaten raw in Fevers for it allays Heat bridles Choler extinguishes Thirst excites Appetite kindly Nourishes and above all represses Vapours conciliates Sleep mitigates Pain besides the effect it has upon the Morals Temperance and Chastity Galen whose beloved Sallet it was from its pinguid subdulcid and agreeable Nature says it breeds the most laudable Blood No marvel then that they were by the Ancients called Sana by way of eminency and so highly valu'd by the great * Apud Sueton. Augustus that attributing his Recovery of a dangerous Sickness to them 't is reported he erected a Statue and built an Altar to this noble Plant. And that the most abstemious and excellent Emperor †Vopiscus Tacit. For the rest both of the Kinds and Vertues of Lettuce See Plin. H. Nat. I. xix c. 8. and xx c. 7. Fernel c. Tacitus spending almost nothing at his frugal Table in other Dainties was yet so great a Friend to Lettuce that he was us'd to say of his Prodigality Somnum se mercari illa sumptus effusione How it was celebrated by Galen we have heard how he us'd it he tells himself namely beginning with Lettuce in his younger Days and concluding with it when he grew old and that to his great advantage In a word we meet with nothing among all our crude Materials and Sallet store so proper to mingle with any of the rest nor so wholsome to be eaten alone or in Composition moderately and with the usual Oxâ—laeum of Vinegar Pepper and Oyl c. which last does not so perfectly agree with the Alphange to which the Juice of Orange or Limon and Sugar is more desirable Aristoxenus is reported to have irrigated his Lettuce-Beds with an Oinomelite or mixture of Wine and Honey And certainly 't is not for nothing that our Garden-Lovers and Brothers of the Sallet have been so exceedingly Industrious to cultivate this Noble Plant and multiply its Species for to name a few in present use We have the Alphange of Montpelier crisp and delicate the Arabic Ambervelleres Belgrade Cabbage Capuchin Cross-Lettuce Curl'd the Genoa lasting all the Winter the Imperial Lambs or Agnine and Lobbs or Lop-Lettuces The French Minion a dwarf kind The Oak-Leaf Passion Roman Shell and Silesian hard and crimp esteemed of the best and rarest with divers more And here let it be noted that besides three or four sorts of this Plant and some few of the rest there was within our remembrance rarely any other Salleting serv'd up to the best Tables with unblanch'd Endive Succory Purselan and indeed little other variety Sugar and Vinegar being the constant Vehicles without Oyl but now Sugar is almost wholly banish'd from all except the more effeminate Palates as too much palling and taking from the grateful Acid now in use tho' otherwise not totally to be reproved Lettuce boil'd and Condited is sometimes spoken of 35. Limon Limonia citrea mala exceedingly refreshing Cordial c. The Pulp being blended with the Juice secluding the over-sweet or bitter See Orange 36. Mallow Malva the curl'd emollient and friendly to the Ventricle and so rather Medicinal yet may the Tops well boil'd be admitted and the rest tho' out of use at present was taken by the Poets for all Sallets in general Pythagoras held Malvae folium Sanctissimum and we find Epimenides in * De Legib. Plato at his Mallows and Asphodel and indeed it was of old the first Dish at Table The Romans had it also in deliciis ¶ Hor Epod. 11. Malvae salubres corpori approved by * De Simp. Medic. L. vii Galen and †Lib. ii cap. 3. Dioscorides namely the Garden-Mallow by others the Wild but I think both proper rather for the Pot than Sallet Nonius supposes the tall Rofea Arborescent Holi-hocks that bears the broad Flower for the best and very ‖ Exoneraturas Ventrem mihi Villica Malvas Attulit varias quas habet hortus Opes Mart. Lib. x. And our sweet Poet Nulla est humanior herba Nulla magis suavi commoditate bona est Omnia tam placidè regerat blandéque relaxat Emollitque vias nec sinit esse rudes Cowl Plan. L. 4. Laxative but by reason of their clamminess and Lentor banished from our Sallet tho' by some commended and eaten with Oyl and Vinegar and some with Butter Mercury Bonus Henricus English Mercury or Lapathum Vnctuosum See Blitum 37. Melon Melo to have been reckon'd rather among Fruits and tho' an usual Ingredient in our Sallet yet for its transcendent delicacy and flavor cooling and exhilarating Nature if sweet dry weighty and well-fed not only superior to all the Gourd-kind but Paragon with the noblest Productions of the Garden Jos Scaliger and Casaubon think our Melon unknown to the Ancients which others contradict as yet under the name of Cucumers But he who reads how artificially they were Cultivated rais'd under Glasses and expos'd to the hot Sun for Tiberius cannot well doubt of their being the same with ours There is also a Winter-Melon large and with black Seeds exceedingly Cooling brought us from abroad and the hotter Climates where they drink Water after eating Melons but in the colder after all dispute Wine is judg'd the better That it has indeed by some been accus'd as apt to corrupt in the Stomach as do all things else eaten in excess is not deny'd But a perfect good Melon is certainly as harmless a Fruit as any whatsoever and may safely be mingl'd with Sallet in Pulp or Slices or more properly eaten by it self with a little Salt and Pepper for a Melon which requires Sugar to commend it wants of Perfection Note That this Fruit was very rarely cultivated in England so as to bring it to Maturity till Sir Geo. Gardner came out of Spain I my self remembring when an ordinary Melon would have been sold for five or six Shillings The small unripe Fruit when the others are past may be Pickl'd with Mango and are very delicate 38. Mint Mentha the Angustifolia Spicata Spear-Mint dry and warm very fragrant a little press'd is friendly to the weak Stomach and powerful against all Nervous Crudities The gentler Tops of the Orange-Mint enter well into our Composition or are grateful alone as are also the other sorts with the Juice of Orange and a little Sugar 39. Mushroms Fungi By the * Cic. ad Attic. Orator call'd Terrae by Porphyry Deorum filii without Seed as produc'd by the Midwifry of Autumnal Thunder-Storms portending the Mischief they cause by the French Champignons with all the Species of the Boletus c. for being as some hold neither Root Herb Flower nor Fruit nor to be eaten crude should be therefore banish'd entry into our Sallet were I to order the Composition however so highly contended for by many as the very principal and top of all the rest whilst I think them tolerable only
both among the Ancient and Modern Artichoak Clear it of the Leaves and cut the Bottoms in pretty thin Slices or Quarters then fry them in fresh Butter with some Parsley till it is crisp and the Slices tender and so dish them with other fresh melted Butter How a Poiverade is made and the Bottoms preserv'd all the Winter See Acetaria p. 8 9. Ashen-keys See Pickle Asparagus See Pickle Beets See Pickle Broom See Pickle Buds See Pickle Capers See Pickle Carrot See Pudding Champignon See Mushroom 2. Chessnut Roasted under the Embers or dry fryed till they shell and quit their Husks may be slit the Juice of Orange squeezed on a Lump of hard Sugar dissolv'd to which add some Claret Wine Collyflower See Pickle Cucumber See Pickle Elder-flowers See Pickle Flowers See Pickle Gilly-flowers See Pickle Herbs See Pudding and Tart. Limon See Pickle 3. Mushroom Chuse the small firm and white Buttons growing upon sweet Pasture Grounds neither under or about any Trees strip off the upper Skin and pare away all the black spungy Bottom part then slice them in quarters and cast them in Water a while to cleanse Then Boil them in fresh Water and a little sweet Butter some boil them a quarter of an hour first and then taking them out dry them in a Cloth pressing out the Water and whilst hot add the Butter and then boiling a full Hour to exhaust the Malignity shift them in another clean Water with Butter as before till they become sufficiently tender Then being taken out pour upon them as much strong Mutton or other Broth as will cover them with six Spoonfuls of white-White-Wine twelve Cloves as many Pepper-Corns four small young Onions half an Handful of Persly bound up with two or three Spriggs of Thyme an Anchovy Oysters raw or pickl'd a little Salt sweet Butter and so let them stew See Acetar p. 39. Another Prepar'd and cleans'd as above and cast into Fountain-Water to preserve them from growing black Boil them in fresh Water and Salt and whilst on the Fire cast in the Mushrooms letting them boil till they become tender Then stew them leisurely between two Dishes the Water being drained from them in a third Part of white-White-Wine and Butter a small Bundle of sweet Herbs at discretion To these add Broth as before with Cloves Mace Nutmeg Anchovies one is sufficient Oysters c. a small Onion with the green Stem chopt small and lastly some Mutton-Gravy rubbing the Dish gently with a Clove of Garlick or some Rocombo Seeds in its stead Some beat the Yolk of a fresh Egg with Vinegar and Butter and a little Pepper In France some more compendiously being peel'd and prepared cast them into a Pipkin where with the Sweet Herbs Spice and an Onion they stew them in their own Juice without any other Water or Liquor at all and then taking out the Herbs and Onion thicken it with a little Butter and so eat them In Poiverade The large Mushrooms well cleansed c. being cut into quarters and strewed with Pepper and Salt are broil'd on the Grid-iron and eaten with fresh Butter In Powder Being fresh gathered cleans'd c. and cut in Pieces stew them in Water and Salt and being taken forth dry them with a Cloth Then putting them into an Earth-Glazed Pot set them into the Oven after the Bread is drawn Repeat this till they are perfectly dry and reserve them in Papers to crumble into what Sawce you please For the rest see Pickle 4. Mustard Procure the best and weightiest Seed cast it into Water two or three times till no more of the Husk arise Then taking out the sound which will sink to the Bottom rub it very dry in warm course Cloths shewing it also a little to the Fire in a Dish or Pan. Then stamp it as small as to pass through a fine Tiffany Sieve Then slice some Horse-Raddish and lay it to soak in strong Vinegar with a small Lump of hard Sugar which some leave out to temper the Flower with being drained from the Radish and so pot it all in a Glaz'd Mug with an Onion and keep it well stop'd with a Cork upon a Bladder which is the more cleanly But this Receit is improv'd if instead of Vinegar Water only or the Broth of powder'd Beef be made use of And to some of this Mustard adding Verjuice Sugar claret-Claret-Wine and Juice of Limon you have an excellent Sauce to any sort of Flesh or Fish Note that a Pint of good Seed is enough to make at one time and to keep fresh a competent while What part of it does not pass the Sarse may be beaten again and you may reserve the Flower in a well closed Glass and make fresh Mustard when you please See Acetaria p. 59. 103. Nasturtium Vide Pickle Orange See Limon in Pickle 5. Parsnip Take the large Roots boil them and strip the Skin Then slit them long-ways into pretty thin Slices Flower and fry them in fresh Butter till they look brown The Sauce is other sweet Butter melted Some strow Sugar and Cinamon upon them Thus you may accommodate other Roots There is made a Mash or Pomate of this Root being boiled very tender with a little fresh Cream and being healed again put to it some Butter a little Sugar and Juice of Limon dish it upon Sippets sometimes a few Corinths are added Peny-royal See Pudding Pickles Pickl'd 6. Artichoaks See Acetaria p. 9. 7. Ashen-keys Gather them young and boil them in three or four Waters to extract the Bitterness and when they feel tender prepare a Syrup of sharp white-White-Wine Vinegar Sugar and a little Water Then boil them on a very quick Fire and they will become of a green Colour â—it to be potted so soon as cold 8. Asparagus Break off the hard Ends and put them in white-White-Wine Vinegar and Salt well covered with it and so let them remain for six Weeks Then taking them out boil the Liquour or Pickle and scum it carefully If need be renew the Vinegar and Salt and when 't is cold pot them up again Thus may one keep them the whole Year 9. Beans Take such as are fresh young and approaching their full Growth Put them into a strong Brine of White-Wine Vinegar and Salt able to bear an Egg. Cover them very close and so will they be preserved twelve Months But a Month before you use them take out what Quantity you think sufficient for your spending a quarter of a Year for so long the second Pickle will keep them sound and boil them in a Skillet of fresh Water till they begin to look green as they soon will do Then placing them one by one to drain upon a clean course Napkin range them Row by Row in a Jarr and cover them with Vinegar and what Spice you please some Weight being laid upon them to keep them under the Pickle Thus you may preserve French-Beans Harico's c. the whole Year about 10. Broom-Buds and
Pods Make a strong Pickle as above stir it very well till the Salt be quite dissolved clearing off the Dregs and Scum The next Day pour it from the Bottom and having rubbed the Buds dry pot them up in a Pickle-Glass which should be frequently shaken till they sink under it and keep it well stopt and covered Thus may you pickle any other Buds Or as follows 11. Of Elder Take the largest Buds and boil them in a Skillet with Salt and Water sufficient only to scald them and so being taken off the Fire let them remain covered till Green and then pot them with Vinegar and Salt which has had one Boil up to cleanse it 12. Collyflowers Boil them till they fall in Pieces Then with some of the Stalk and worst of the Flower boil it in a part of the Liquor till pretty strong Then being taken off strain it and when settled clear it from the Bottom Then with Dill Gross Pepper a pretty Quantity of Salt when cold add as much Vinegar as will make it sharp and pour all upon the Collyflower and so as to keep them from touching one another which is prevented by putting Paper close to them Cornelians are pickled like Olives 13. Cowslips Pickt very clean to each Pound of Flowers allow about one Pound of Loaf-Sugar and one Pint of White-Wine Vinegar which boil to a Syrup and cover it scalding-hot Thus you may pickle Clove-gillyflowers Elder and other Flowers which being eaten alone make a very agreeable Salletine 14. Cucumbers Take the Gorkems or smaller Cucumbers put them into Rape-Vinegar and boyl and cover them so close as none of the Vapour may issue forth and also let them stand till the next day Then boil them in fresh White-Wine Vinegar with large Mace Nutmeg Ginger white Pepper and a little Salt according to discretion straining the former Liquor from the Cucumbers and so place them in a Jarr or wide mouthed Glass laying a little Dill and Fennel between each Rank and covering all with the fresh scalding-hot Pickle keep all close and repeat it daily till you find them sufficiently green In the same sort Cucumbers of the largest size being peel'd and cut into thin Slices are very delicate Another Wiping them clean put them in a very strong Brine of Water and Salt to soak two or three Hours or longer if you see Cause Then range them in the Jarr or Barrellet with Herbs and Spice as usual and cover them with hot Liquor made of two parts Beer-Vinegar and one of white-White-VVine Vinegar Let all be very well closed A Fortnight after scald the Pickle again and repeat it as above Thus they will keep longer and from being so soon sharp eat crimp and well tasted tho' not altogether so green You may add a VValnut-Leaf Hysop Costmary c. and as some do strow on them a little Powder of Roch-Allom which makes them firm and eatable within a Month or six VVeeks after Mango of Cucumbers Take the biggest Cucumbers and most of the Mango size that look green Open them on the Top or Side and scooping out the Seeds supply their Place with a small Clove of Garlick or some Roccombo Seeds Then put them into an Earthen Glazed Jarr or wide-mouth'd Glass with as much VVhite VVine Vinegar as will cover them Boil them in the Vinegar with Pepper Cloves Mace c. and when off the Fire as much Salt as will make a gentle Brine and so pour all boyling-hot on the Cucumbers covering them close till the next Day Then put them with a little Dill and Pickle into a large Skillet and giving them a Boyl or two return them into the Vessel again And when all is cold add a good Spoonful of the best Mustard keeping it from the Air and so have you an excellent Mango VVhen you have occasion to take any out make use of a Spoon and not your Fingers Elder See Buds Flowers See Cowslips and for other Flowers 15. Limon Take Slices of the thick Rind Limon Boil and shift them in several VVaters till they are pretty tender Then drain and wipe them dry with a clean Cloth and make a Pickle with a little white-VVhite-VVine Vinegar one part to two of fair Water and a little Sugar carefully scum'd When all is cold pour it on the peel'd Rind and cover it all close in a convenient Glass Jarr Some make a Syrup of Vinegar white-White-Wine and Sugar not too thick and pour it on hot 16. Melon The abortive and after-Fruit of Melons being pickled as Cucumber make an excellent Sallet 17. Mushrom Take a Quart of the best White-Wine Vinegar as much of White-Wine Cloves Mace Nutmeg a pretty Quantity beaten together Let the Spice boil therein to the Consumption of half then taken off and being cold pour the Liquour on the Mushroms but leave out the boiled Spice and cast in of the same sort of Spice whole the Nutmeg only slit in Quarters with some Limon-Peel white Pepper and if you please a whole raw Onion which take out again when it begins to perish Another The Mushroms peel'd c. throw them into Water and then into a Sauce-Pan with some long Pepper Cloves Mace a quarter'd Nutmeg with an Onion Shallot or Roccombo-Seed and a little Salt Let them all boil a quarter of an hour on a very quick Fire Then take out and cold with a pretty Quantity of the former Spice boil them in some White-Wine which being cold cast upon the Mushroms and fill up the Pot with the best White-Wine a Bay-Leaf or two and an Handful of Salt Then cover them with the Liquour and if for long keeping pour Sallet-Oil over all tho' they will be preserved a Year without it They are sometimes boil'd in Salt and Water with some Milk and laying them in the Colender to drain till cold and wiped dry cast them into the Pickle with the white-White-Wine Vinegar and Salt grated Nutmeg Ginger bruised Cloves Mace white Pepper and Limon-Peel pour the Liquor on them cold without boiling 18. Nasturtium Indicum Gather the Buds before they open to flower lay them in the Shade three or four Hours and putting them into an Earthen Glazed Vessel pour good Vinegar on them and cover it with a Board Thus leting it stand for eight or ten Days Then being taken out and gently press'd cast them into fresh Vinegar and let them so remain as long as before Repeat this a third time and Barrel them up with Vinegar and a little Salt Orange See Limon 20. Potato The small green Fruit when about the size of the Wild Cherry being pickled is an agreeable Sallet But the Root being roasted under the Embers or otherwise open'd with a Knife the Pulp is butter'd in the Skin of which it will take up a good Quantity and is seasoned with a little Salt and Pepper Some eat them with Sugar together in the Skin which has a pleasant Crimpness They are also stew'd and bak'd in Pyes c. 21.
Purselan Lay the Stalks in an Earthen Pan then cover them with Beer-Vinegar and Water keeping them down with a competent Weight to imbibe three Days Being taken out put them into a Pot with as much white-White-Wine Vinegar as will cover them again and close the Lid with Paste to keep in the Steam Then set them on the Fire for three or four Hours often shaking and stirring them Then open the Cover and turn and remove those Stalks which lie at the Bottom to the Top and boil them as before till they are all of a Colour When all is cold pot them with fresh White-Wine Vinegar and so you may preserve them the whole Year round 22. Radish The Seed-Pods of this Root being pickl'd are a pretty Sallet 23. Sampier Let it be gathered about Michaelmas or the Spring and put two or three Hours into a Brine of Water and Salt then into a clean Tin'd Brass Pot with three parts of strong white-White-Wine Vinegar and one part of Water and Salt or as much as will cover the Sampier keeping the Vapour from issuing out by pasting down the Pot-lid and so hang it over the Fire for half an Hour only Being taken off let it remain cover'd till it be cold and then put it up into small Barrels or Jars with the Liquor and some fresh Vinegar Water and Salt and thus it will keep very green If you be near the Sea that Water will supply the place of Brine This is the Dover Receit 24. Walnuts Gather the Nuts young before they begin to harden but not before the Kernel is pretty white Steep them in as much Water as will more then cover them Then set them on the Fire and when the VVater boils and grows black pour it off and supply it with fresh boiling it as before and continuing to shift it till it become clear and the Nuts pretty tender Then let them be put into clean Spring-VVater for two Days changing it as before with fresh two or three times within this space Then lay them to drain and dry on a clean course Cloth and put them up in a Glass Jar with a few VValnut Leaves Dill Cloves Pepper whole Mace and Salt strowing them under every Layer of Nuts till the Vessel be three quarters full and lastly replenishing it with the best Vinegar keep it well covered and so they will be fit to spend within three Months To make a Mango with them The Green Nuts prepared as before cover the Bottom of the Jar with some Dill an Handful of Bay-Salt c. and then a Bed of Nuts and so stratum upon stratum as above adding to the Spice some Roccombo-Seeds and filling the rest of the Jar with the best VVhite-VVine Vinegar mingled with the best Mustard and so let them remain close covered during two or three Months time And thus have you a more agreeable Mango than what is brought us from abroad which you may use in any Sauce and is of it self a rich Condiment Thus far Pickles 25. Potage Maigre Take four Quarts of Spring-Water two or three Onions stuck with some Cloves two or three Slices of Limon-Peel Salt whole white Pepper Mace a Raze or two of Ginger tied up in a fine Cloth Lawn or Tiffany and make all boil for half an Hour Then having Spinage Sorrel white Beet-Chard a little Cabbage a few small Tops of Cives wash'd and pick'd clean shred them well and cast them into the Liquor with a Pint of blue Pease boil'd soft and strain'd with a Bunch of sweet Herbs the Top and Bottom of a French Roll and so suffer it to boil during three Hours and then dish it with another small French Roll and Slices about the Dish Some cut Bread in slices and frying them brown being dried put them into the Pottage just as it is going to be eaten The same Herbs clean wash'd broken and pulled asunder only being put in a close cover'd Pipkin without any other Water or Liquor will stew in their own Juice and Moisture Some add an whole Onion which after a while should be taken out remembring to season it with Salt and Spice and serve it up with Bread and a Piece of fresh Butter 26. Pudding of Carrot Pare off some of the Crust of Manchet-Bread and grate off half as much of the rest as there is of the Root which must also be grated Then take half a Pint of fresh Cream or New Milk half a Pound of fresh Butter six new laid Eggs taking out three of the Whites mash and mingle them well with the Cream and Butter Then put in the grated Bread and Carrot with near half a Pound of Sugar and a little Salt some grated Nutmeg and beaten Spice and pour all into a convenient Dish or Pan butter'd to keep the Ingredients from sticking and burning set it in a quick Oven for about an Hour and so have you a Composition for any Root-Pudding 27. Penny-royal The Cream Eggs Spice c. as above but not so much Sugar and Salt Take a pretty Quantity of Peny-royal and Marigold Flower c. very well shred and mingle with the Cream Eggs c. four Spoonfuls of Sack half a Pint more of Cream and almost a Pound of Beef-Suet chopt very small the Gratings of a Two-penny Loaf and stirring all well together put it into a Bag flower'd and tie it fast It will be boil'd within an Hour Or may be baked in the Pan like the Carrot-Pudding The sauce is for both a little Rose-water less Vinegar with Butter beaten together and poured on it sweetned with the Sugar Caster Of this Plant discreetly dried is made a most wholsom and excellent Tea 28. Of Spinage Take a sufficient Quantity of Spinach stamp and strain out the Juice put to it grated Manchet the Yolk of as many Eggs as in the former Composition of the Carrot-Pudding some Marrow shred small Nutmeg Sugar some Corinths if you please a few Carroways Rose or Orange-flower Water as you best like to make it grateful Mingle all with a little boiled Cream and set the Dish or Pan in the Oven with a Garnish of Puff-Paste It will require but very moderate Baking Thus have you Receits for Herb Puddings 29. Skirret-Milk Is made by boiling the Roots tender and the Pulp strained out put into Cream or new Milk boiled with three or four Yolks of Eggs Sugar large Mace and other Spice c. And thus is composed any other Root-Milk See Acetar p. 65. 30. Tansie Take the Gratings or Slices of three Naples-Biscuits put them into half a Pint of Cream with twelve fresh Eggs four of the Whites cast out strain the rest and break them with two Spoonfuls of Rose-water a little Salt and Sugar half a grated Nutmeg And when ready for the Pan put almost a Pint of the Juice of Spinach Cleaver Beets Corn-Sallet Green Corn Violet or Primrose tender Leaves for of any of these you may take your choice with a very small