to separate the rest and disperse that terrible Storm which must have ruin'd them beyond recovery As the Principal strength of Venice consists in the shallowness of the Lagunes so it sometimes causes great fears to the Republick for the Ground rising continually higher and damming up the entrances of the Ports makes them apprehend they may at length become dry at least inaccessible to all sorts of Vessels and at the same time not habitable by reason of the corruption that would proceed from thence evident in some neighbouring Isles where the malevolent Exhalations of those Marshy Grounds cause them to be forsaken by every one In effect the diminution of the Waters depth is so considerable that formerly where there was Eight and Ten Fathom Water in the Port of Malamoco there is not at present above Two or Three insomuch that the great Ships are now oblig'd to take the opportunity of the highest of the Tide to get out They must be undoubtedly mistaken who believe the Sea rather retires than the Land grows upon them it being evident that the common Tides beat against the foundations of the most Ancient Palaces and other Edifices of Venice which are not of a much younger Date than the very Foundation of the Republick it self These inconveniences being of the last importance have put the Republick to an inexpressible charge within these last Forty years They are very ready to hear all Enginiers that entertain them with the cleansing and keeping the Lagunes clear of Mud For which reason they have always at hand a great number of vast Machines both to scour them and deepen the Canals As the Republick is of the Opinion that these Beds of Earth are particularly caused by the falling in of the Brente and Piave occasioning the Sand to settle here so they thought by an extraordinary Work to take such measures as might prevent it by turning the course and conveying the Water towards Brondoto a new Canal cut in the Plains for above Thirty Miles together So these Waters are carried above the entrance of the Three Ports by little Channels which being scarce able to resist against the rapidity of the Stream are found to be a great Charge and not much Benefit Some believe that this diminution of the depth proceeds from the enlarging of the Lagunes to which purpose the Venetians levell'd a high Dyke that was formerly from the Town of Chiosa to Lizza Fusina consequently above Twenty Miles long for it being directly opposite to the flowing of the Sea so it was also the occasion of its returning with greater force which did not only carry away that Filth and Mud which now remains since the motion is abated by the liberty of flowing into that great space but likewise the course being at that time more rapid did then scour the Port of Malamoco which is over against it Of the Islands which are in the Lagunes THere are reckon'd to be about 60 Islands in the Lagunes of which above 25 are built upon and very well inhabited therein comprehending those that divide the Sea from the Lagunes To which the Venetians give the name of Lido or Shoar-Islands These are as hath been already said long and narrow the Soil poor and Sandy yet the industrious Labour of the Inhabitants hath render'd it rich and fertile in many places insomuch that one sees here many Gardens Of all the Islands which lie against the Sea that called Polesina is the best Peopl'd and the most agreeable it reaches from Polesin the Port of Chiosa to that of Malamoco being about 15 Miles long and 3 or 400 Paces over towards the Lagunes it is built the Houses small but pretty and neat the rest of it even to the Sea is improved by Gard'ning as likewise the most part of the other adjacent Isles in which there are computed to be about Fourteen thousand Inhabitants that cultivate them and furnish Venice with the greatest part of those vast quantities of Fruits and Roots that are there consumed The other inhabited Islands about Venice are either entirely possessed by some one Religious House whose Walls are encompassed with Water on all sides as those of the Holy Ghost of St. George D'Alega St. Seconde with several others or divided into Villages and little Towns well inhabited As also handsome Churches and Convents of Religious of both Sexes So are the Islands of Bouran Mayorbe Torcelle Four or Five Miles from Venice They were very considerable in the beginning of the Republick but the alteration of the Air as formely mentioned has caused them to be forsaken by their best Inhabitants These Islands are erected into a Bishoprick but the Bishop is forc'd to make his Residence in another place even the Religious that have Houses there are necessitated to quit them all the Summer by reason of the malignity of the Air leaving some poor Priests to assist those Inhabitants that are obliged to continue there As to the Religious Women they not being allow'd the liberty to remove themselves but forc'd to stay against their Inclinations express to such as come to see them an extream dissatisfaction of carrying in their Faces the evident signs of the ill Air they live in for nothing can be a more sensible mortification to them than to be reckon'd Forty at Five and twenty by reason of their fallow and unhealthy Complexion Of all the Islands of the Lagunes next to those that form the Body of the City of Venice that of Mouran is the most considerable It is a little City lying North of Venice and about Canon shot from it There is a great Canal that passes through it with several other smaller Canals many Noble Palaces and agreeable Pleasure-houses of the Noble Venetians Here are several Churches and some Convents the number of Inhabitants are esteemed at 20000. The Island of Mouran is famous for its great number of Glass Furnaces and Shops along the side of the great Canal Here you may see them continually lading great quantities of Glass and Chrystal Glasses of an extraordinary Beauty which are from hence sent into all parts of Europe However the Merchants to their great Concern are sensible of this mighty decay of Trade by the prohibition of France against importing Glass into that Kingdom and establishing those Glass-houses which have attained there to such a perfection in ordering their Chrystal that I have heard a Famous Master here promise a hundred thousand Florins to any one that would shew him how to temper his Chrystal Glasses like to that of an extraordinary clear and beautiful Cup which was brought from France Of the City of Venice VEnice hath the quality of all extraordinary things it being almost impossible by a description only to form such an Idea of it as shall exactly answer to the reality of what it is Nevertheless after having comprehended what the Lagunes or Lakes are 't will be easy to represent this famous City as rising out of the Sea in the
of the Winds by a mighty Dike which runs from the South to the North for the space of about 35 Leagues and 5 or 600 Paces in breadth which defends the Country from being easily overflown but the Sea having forced this Neck of Land hath made it self six Passages in so many several places which overflowing all the low Grounds beyond this Bank gave occasion to this The Lagunes Name of Lagunes leaving in this great District several Islands about 5 or 6 Miles in compass which are not much above the surface of the Water The Lagunes lie from South to North against the * Continent or Terra firma main Land from the Polesin towards the Po and Adigè from the Padouan to the Brente from the Themisan and Friuli towards the Mouth of the Plavis or Anassus making a great Demi-Oval which is closed towards the Sea by the before-mentioned Remainders of the Neck of Land being so many natural Defences against the Adriatick and whereby the Sea hath here made the same number of distinct Islands as she hath opened Passages to drown the low Country and form the Lagunes The six Passages by which the Sea falls into the Lagunes are the only Ports by which one passes from the Sea to this City The first to begin at the most Southern part is the Port of Brondolo which being almost stopt up with the Sands by reason of the Adigè and the falling in here of the new Brente is now no more frequented The second is the Port of Chiosa an Episcopal City situated 24 Miles from Venice and is something like it by reason of the Situation and Canals The third is the Port of Malamoco from the Village of that Name here all the great Ships come as being deeper than any of the other Ports the Road is very good and capable of containing a great number of Ships The fourth is the Port of the Lido over-against the most Eastern Point of Venice and only a Mile from it Through this Port the Gallies and other great Vessels after having unladed at the Lazaret of Malamoco pass on to St. Mark 's Place as also to several other places of the City by the means of the great Canal which crosses it There is above the Lido the Mouth of St. Erasmus and something further that of the Three Ports so called by reason of the three Openings pretty near one the other but the Water is so low in these places that they are only frequented by the Boats of Fishermen It may be seen by what is here said that Venice is naturally defended against all the Attacks of a Naval Force being the Ships cannot come any nearer than the Port of Malamoco for those that would pass on to Venice by the Lagunes are obliged after being unladed to be towed up through certain Passages where the deepness of the Water sufficient for Ships of Burthen is marked out by great Piles or else to return to Sea taking the same course that the Gallies do and come in through the Port of the Lido For the great Currant of the Water hath preserved here by means of the Flood a deeper Channel than is found in any other part of the Lagunes Of all the Ports that of the Lido is most in their Eye being the nearest to the City and the easiest to be approached but the Republick hath taken care of it by a well fortified Castle with Water-Batteries on the right on the left is only a Wall for Musketiers whose Discharges must be of very good effect being the entrance of the Port is nothing near Musket-shot over Notwithstanding this advantagious Situation of this City Experience hath shewn that if a Naval Army should get the Possession of one of these Passages the City of Venice would be in a little time reduced to great Extremities as it happened in the year 1380 in the War between the Venetians and Genoueses who by the taking of the Port of Chiosa under their General Doria struck the City into such a Fear that it was debated in the Senate if they should abandon the Town and transport themselves to Candia This Deliberation had been followed with the Execution of it if they had not at that time received the News of the Victory they gained at Sea by a General Victor Pisani under the Doge Andre Contarini there in Person which came so opportunely as to deliver the Republick from the most terrible Fear they ever knew Wherefore as the Entrances of Malamoco and the Lido are the most important and a Descent made at the first of these Ports would easily render the Enemy Masters of the second by possessing the whole Isle between them which is not above 5 Miles long and 4 or 500 Paces broad so the Republick hath caused it to be cut near the Lido by a * A deep Ditch Fossè that crosses it fortified with Bastions their Casemats and Courtines faced with Brick towards Malamoque which is the most dangerous Part. Venice enjoys more Security towards the side of the main Land for in all that compass of Ground which borders upon the Lagunes towards the West there are only two principal Ways that lead to the City the one is a Village called Mestre where all things are brought which come out of Germany to go to Venice by the means of a Canal that goes into the Lagunes The other is called Lizza Fusina here ends the old Canal of the Breute This Water is prevented from falling into the Lagunes by a Sluce by reason of the Prejudice it might occasion Whatsoever comes from Padua and from the greatest part of the Territories of Venice is brought to Fusina if it does not go down the before mentioned Rivers The Passages that lead from these two Places to Venice as likewise some others less considerable are not direct but marked out at certain Distances by high Piles which the Republick are sure to have cut in any pressing Necessity rendering the City inaccessible to all Enemies on that side For however small their Boats may be yet it will be impossible for them to make their passage of Five Miles without running on ground besides with the help of certain Boats and Machines of Defence in the Arsenal of Venice they will according to their own Opinions easily render ineffectual all attempts of an Enemy King Lewis the XII in Confederacy with most Princes of Europe that Pope Julius the 11th had Armed against the Venetians after having beaten their Army advanced to Fusina from whence the City of Venice is plainly seen Here he intended to attempt the passage of the Lagunes in order to render himself Master of the City but the Pope having recovered Romagnia that was not only usurp'd from him but the chief occasion of the war became unwilling to see the entire ruine of the Republick and the too powerful establishment of the French in Italy withdrew himself from the Ligue which gave the address of the Venetians opportunity
middle of these overflown Plains which seems to have been the design of Nature as contributing to its Beauty Security and Conveniency not less to the great Power and long Continuation of this Republick And whatever part of the Town you arrive at either from Terra Firma or from the Sea this City shews it self equally Peculiar and Majestical Yet you have the prospect of the most Beautiful part in coming from Chiosa by the Lagunes For at Ten Miles distance you begin to have the Prospect it there seeming to float upon the Surface of the Waters environ'd with a Forest of Barques and Ships which by degrees permits you full of Admiration to behold the Magnificent Buildings of the Palace and St. Mark 's Place * The Church Della Salute and the Palace of Cornaro as likewise some others of the most sumptuous Edifices upon the Great Canal which you have on the Left Hand The draught of the Situation of Venice does much resemble the shape of the Turbot and the Eastern extremity being the Arsenal makes the Tail The City is wholly built upon Piles whose Foundations are not only laid in those places where the Earth appear'd above the Water but likewise driven into those considerably under it by which means they have in a manner brought together a great number of little Isles that encompass the principal which being join'd by Bridges forms the Body of this vast City that does not only seem to be the Queen of all the Islands in the Lagunes but likewise absolute Mistress of the Gulf to which Sovereignty she pretends In short her greatness Situation her external Majesty join'd to the great number of her Inhabitants the great concourse of Stangers and her method of Government render her admir'd by all the World Sannazar one of the most excellent Wits of the Age made formerly these six Verses which gives Venice the glorious Preference and to the Author the honour of having them engrav'd on Marble Viderat Adriacis Venetam Neptunus in undis Stare Urbem toto dicere jura Mari. I nunc Tarpeias quantum vis Jupiter arceis Objice illa tua Maenia Martis ait Si Tiberim Pelago confers Urbem aspice utramque Illam homines dices hanc posuisse Deos. There is computed to be in Venice about One Hundred and Fourscore thousand Inhabitants notwithstanding it is open on all sides without Gates or Walls having no other Ramparts than the Houses and Palaces of particulars neither Fortification nor Citadel and without Garison yet it assuredly is one of the strongest Cities of Europe Although the Island of Zueque is perfectly separated from Venice yet La Zueca it continues to be part of it It seems to be a great half Moon and a Counter-guard that covers more than half the City towards the South reaching from over against the Place of St. Mark even to the most Western extremity from which places it is separated by a large Canal of above 300 feet over This Island was formerly inhabited by the Jews which occasion'd it the name of Judaic and since by corruption that of Zueque It is of an equal breadth being about 300 paces over there is a Key on that side of it which looks towards the City nobly built with magnificent Churches as likewise abundance of noble Houses with spacious Gardens behind them that reach even to the Lagunes This Island being divided by 7 or 8 Canals that cross it there are as many Bridges which continue the Key from whence the prospect of the City is not less agreeable than that of La Zueca from the City and if the smallest gust of Wind did not continually hinder the Gondolo's from crossing the great Canal La Zueca would undoubtedly be the most charming part of this City Of the Canals and Bridges THE great number of Canals by which one may come into this City from every side and that cross it in every place divides it into an incredible number of small Islands insomuch that there are several single Houses that are on all sides wash'd by the Waves From whence it happens there is no place in Venice but to which one may come by Water as likewise on Foot by the means of about 500 Bridges that facilitate the Communication of a great number of little Streets c. that cross the City and almost as many Keys that are built along the Canals The greatest part of the Canals in the heart of the City are very narrow and have no Keys which evidently shews that the first Founders of Venice were mighty Husbands in managing the Ground that was so precious or that they had not in their thoughts the Idea of what this City hath since attain'd Some of the other Canals have but one single Key and others Il Fundamento two but so narrow that two People can hardly walk together yet there are some very spacious and convenient but without either Rails or Balusters open and made into Stairs over against each House which descend very low for the more easie use of the Gondolo's at all times of the Tide by which means those frequent descents or stairs have so La Riva straitned the Keys that all Passengers more especially in the Night are oblig'd to keep close to the sides of the Houses or otherwise at almost every step expose themselves to the dangers of the Canal The depth of these Canals are different but when the Tide is at the highest it is in most places 5 or 6 Foot excepting the great Canal of which the depth is very considerable it is nothing less than a worthy Subject of admiration but more in those parts of the Town most frequented by the poorer People to see the great numbers of little Children playing upon the very sides and edges of these Canals which in all other places would affect the Parents with the perpetual apprehension of their falling into the Water yet it no ways troubles them here neither is it scarce known that any such accidents happen in these places Most part of the Bridges of Venice are made of Stone and Brick so delicately Built that the Arch is not above 8 Inches thick but the sides and middle are of a very hard sort of free Stone the Arches are so high that the passage is no ways incommodious to the Gondolo's and other Vessels that are continually passing the Canals You ascend these Bridges on either side by 4 or 5 steps of white Stone that is much like Marble which in time become so smooth and polish'd that in a Rain or Frosty weather it is very difficult to keep from falling as these Bridges are without Rails or any other security so one ought to have a special regard to their Feet for the white Stone is one of the 3 things that the Venetian Proverb recommends to the care of all Stangers Of the great Canal NOthing contributes more to the beauty of Venice than the great Great Canal Canal which beginning
near the Place of St. Mark goes winding through the Centre of the City and ends towards the West over against Fucina where the Breute as hath been formerly observ'd falls into the Lagunes from whence it must be allow'd that the great Canal was heretofore the true Course of this River as likewise that part of the City where the Bridge of Rialto now is was really the principal Port that the Paduans had in the Lagunes This Canal is near 2 Miles long and 50 or 60 paces over which turns so often about the middle of the City that to cross from one part to the other you must pass this Canal at least 3 times It is on both sides adorn'd with the noblest Palaces of Venice but beside the want of a Key that might continue it as a Terrass from one end to the other there is a great number of little Houses among them which do diminish those advantages that would be otherwise due to these magnificent Buildings In several other places of this City may be seen many noble Houses and Palaces But without detaining my self here upon this Description of them I shall only add that as the 2 Palaces of Cornaro and Grimani upon the great Canal are the most Magnificent of all so their Frontispieces may serve as Models to the Buildings of the greatest Princes Besides these one sees upon the great Canal and in all other parts of this City a great number of the more antique Artichecture whose Fronts being adorn'd with large Balconies of Marble both in the first and second Floors do evidently demonstrate the Ancient Wealth and Power of this Republick The Water of the great Canal by reason of the great depth is always clean and clear the Currant in the flux and reflux of the Tide is not much less Rapid than those of Rivers The Gallies and laden Vessels find sufficient Water in every part of it this Canal seems to be the great Vein which refreshes all the little parts of the vast Body of this City by the means of an abundance of little Branches or Veins that issue from it Of the Bridge of Rialto THE great Canal that divides Venice into almost two equal parts hath only one Bridge over it which is directly in the Centre of the City and in that quarter from which it takes the Name This Bridge was Built of Wood until the Year 1587 at which time the Republick under the Doge Pascal Cigogne caus'd it to be built with Stone The greatest Ararchitects of the Age were consulted about this magnificent Work among the several Designs that of one Arch was preferr'd to all the others which is so large that a Gally with her Mast let down can at all times go through it and her Oars rowing The foundation of this Bridge is on each side laid upon 10000 Elm Piles after having first by a prodigious Charge kept up the Water in certain deep places until they had sunk 16 Foot into the Earth to render the Work more substantial The Centre of the Bridge is but a moderate part of a great Circle they not being willing to raise it in proportion to the Diameter yet to ascend the Bridge with the most conveniency it is very broad and all built of very large stones not much inferior to Marble for hardness This Bridge hath on each side 2 rows of shops whose Timber-work being rais'd Arbour like and covered with Lead renders the appearance of it very agreeable there is in the middle between this double row of Shops a space moderately large from hence you go up several steps until you come to the uppermost part which is open on both sides like a Porch here you command on both hands the prospect of the great Canal and enter into the 2 Corrido's or Galleries which being behind the Shops continue from one end of the Bridge to the other A great Ballustrade with very handsom Cornishes is the support of these 2 Galleries the whole is so regular a Piece of Artichecture that this Bridge is of an extream advantageous effect to the beauty of the great Canal The publick Registers assure us that the Republick spent upon this Building the sum of 250000 Ducats that for 2 Years all places of the City were filled The Ducat being about 4 s. English with Materials and that a mighty number of Stone-Cutters were incessantly employ'd however this Bridge does not at first sight appear to have been an enterprize of such great Importance Of the establish'd Ferry's or Passages for the publick conveniency BEsides the excessive charges of building more Bridges upon the great Canal I am of the opinion that the hinderance they would be to the continual passage of great Vessels and the prejudice that the beauty of the prospect would receive may be allow'd to be sufficient reasons against all such attempts moreover the Policy of this Government is that they may be able in any sudden Revolution to defend one part of the City against the other which would be no difficult matter seeing there is but one Bridge to defend But as it would be an extream inconveniency to the Inhabitants if they were oblig'd to pass the Bridge upon every Li Tragetti occasion of going into the other part of the City so there are for their greater ease at least upon the great Canal 18 or 20 establish'd Passages that is several Gondoliers always ready at a convenient place to Ferry over in their Gondoliers the Passengers from one side to the other for which they pay something less than a half-peny of our Money There are many more of these Passages in those quarters of the City where for want of Bridges the circumference of going by Land would be too large All the publick Gondoliers are oblig'd to serve such as will make use of them at the rate of 15 d. their Money an hour which does not exceed 5 of ours The Ferry Gondolo's having but one Oar the Passage is not less tedious than inconvenient for these brutish Gondoliers are so unreasonable when they happen upon a Stranger that is ignorant of the Language and unacquainted with the Customs of the Town to Treat him with the utmost incivilities telling one another in such occasions that they have met with a Polander being then certain to insist upon the double price of what they ought to have pretending they must by these means reimburse themselves of those considerable Sums which they are oblig'd to pay the Republick for the Liberty of the Ferry that is for the permission of keeping a Gondole to that purpose Besides they are oblig'd to answer those extraordinary contributions which is laid upon their Company in all the urgent necessities of the Republick Of the Streets and Places LAnd is so precious at Venice that it is not to be admir'd if all the Streets are so narrow that those of the most frequented will scarcely permit two People to Walk together which is the occasion of
frequent Jostlings more particularly at the several Turnings which are very numerous Nevertheless being pav'd with Brick the side uppermost free of Coaches Horses Carts and other Carriages these conveniences of Walking are the more easie and make amends for the straitness of them The Pavement grows smooth and becomes so unequally worn in the length of time that the least Rains make them extreamly slippery but it is not the same upon the Keys for here you go with less constraint as not being enclos'd between 2 Rows of Houses besides these discharging themselves into the Canals are much cleaner and drier than the Streets You see at Venice the ends of several Streets moderately large as also a great many little Places or Squares besides those that each Church hath before it which are generally pretty large as likewise several others of a more inconsiderable bigness The want which they have at Venice of fresh Water did oblige such as have built to continue so many little Places or Squares that they might have in the midst of each a publick Cistern which they improperly call Wells as being only fill'd with Rain Water convey'd to them in Stone Gutters from the tops of Houses by the means of little Pipes or Funnels that are fix'd to all their Walls However they do positively affirm that there is spring Water in some of these Wells which is not altogether improbable for that yellow and ill smelling Clay which upon their cleansing is thrown out of those places may in some measure justifie their argument besides Reason and Experience shew us there may be Springs of fresh Water under such Grounds as are cover'd with salt Water Although the Water is not generally very good at Venice yet some of these Wells afford that which is very good But such as are desirous of better have their Water brought them in Boats for that purpose only from the Brente which they pour into those Wells to purifie where it afterwards becomes extraordinary healthful All the Dyers are oblig'd to this Expence in Water more especially in delicate Tinctures for that of the Canals is only proper for their first washings It is wonderful that the Water should not be good at Padua and almost throughout the whole Dominion of this State in Italy but even much worser than that of Venice I imagine this to be partly the Reason of their mixing the Wines with a fourth if not a third part Water that so by the Fermentation of the Wine in the Vessel at the time of the Vintage the Water may the better incorporate which alteration renders it abundantly more healthful Besides I am of the opinion that the natural hardness of their common Wines which grow upon great Trees about Venice as likewise in moist Bottoms do's much more oblige them to follow this method for their natural harshness preserves them a long time although mix'd with Water I cannot forbear observing in this place the advantage the Country of Modena hath over her Neighbouring Provinces for as that Province is very low of Scituation you have the Water very bad when they only sink to such a certain depth but up on passing that they find a level of hard Stone through which they must sink their trouble is not only rewarded with an excellent Water but the Stone serves them instead of Bricks for the Work and mouth of the Well to which the Water rises in abundance I remember one at the Capucins of Modena which continually ran over making a little Stream of most excellent Water Of Saint Mark 's Place THat open space of Ground before the Church of St. Mark commonly call'd St. Mark 's Place is assuredly one of the most magnificent Places of Europe not only by reason of the greatness but likewise for the sumptuousness of the Buildings that surround it and the mighty concourse of Strangers continually there This Place hath much the Form of an L revers'd or is rather two different Places the first whereof and the least capacious ' is scituated towards the South and looks upon the Sea here is without dispute the most agreeable prospect of Venice being that part which is commonly represented in the Draughts of this City The Sea beats against the side of this Place which is built of Free-stone with several handsome Steps Upon this Key are rais'd 2 extraordinary high Pillars of Marble being both 2 intire solid pieces and about 60 paces distant from each other Upon that of the Right hand is seen the winged Lion of St. Mark cast in Brass on the other the Effigies of St. Theodorus first Patron of this City The Architect that rais'd these 2 Columns after they had lain a long time upon the Key there not being any Engineers whose experience afforded them sufficient assurance to attempt it demanded only of the Republick as an ample recompence of his labours the liberty of Playing at all Games of Hazard upon the Steps that encompass the Pedestals of these Pillars which was granted him with a considerable Pension for his Life Amongst a great number of Vessels over against the Place of St Mark there lies always an arm'd and equipp'd Gally with her Stern between the 2 Pillars ready as they say against any occasion that might unexectedly happen to defend the Place against all Popular Tumults In the mean time she learns the Slaves the use of their Oars with which unhappy People the Gallies of this Republick are Mann'd The Ducat of St. Mark closeth this Place on the Right hand towards the East and one Wing of the Suburb building of the New Procuratory which is here only one Story but adorn'd at the top by a noble Ballustrade with several Figures encloseth it on the opposite side This magnificent Building is according to the Architecture of Sansouin and makes a return or right angle to the Left hand representing the Front 3 times * Or in length longer and double the height so encloseth all that side of St. Mark 's Place One part of the same Procuratory adjoining to the Noble Gate of the little Church of St. Geminius is the bottom or lowest part of this Place The Ancient Edifice of the Old Procuratory being opposite to the New is carried on in the same proportion with the other to the fine great Dial that hath a Prospect upon the Sea and this makes the Third side of the First Place The Gate of the Church of St Mark advancing more into the Place than the Palace to which it is contiguous and opposite to that of St Geminius makes the Fourth side as also the Noble Prospect of this Famous part of the City There is under the two Wings of the new Procuratory a large Arch'd Gallery or Piazza sustain'd by handsom Pillars wrought about their Middles the Angles enrich'd with Ornaments and rais'd Works of an extraordinary Beauty The old Procuratory hath likewise a Piazza on the other side of the Place insomuch that one may almost make the Tour
Place to the Bridge of Rialto is call'd the Mercury which are 5 or 6 narrow Streets in Length where are expos'd to Sale all sorts of rich Silks Stuffs Tissue's of Gold Points de Venise Rubans Silver and Gold Lace Velvets Damasks and Brocards of an extraordinary price which being mixed with many other sorts of Merchandizes makes this one of the most agreeable parts of all Venice The little Place of St. Bartholomew that joins the Mercury to the Bridge of Rialto is intirely Inhabited by the Druggists where you find all the Commodities that come out of the Levant and Germany the Liveliness of these places with the continual concourse of People do render them altogether as agreeable as the most frequented Streets of Paris or even the Galleries of the Exchange or Palace The Quarter of the Rialto is the most ancient Part of the City for here they laid the first Foundation of it it is one entire and handsome Island being apart from the Mercery on the other side of the Bridge at the bottom whereof on the left hand is a long Gallery with Shops of Draperies and other sorts of Stuffs the Ware-houses are over head and on the right is the Place of Rialto in which the little Church of St. James being the ancientest of this City and built above 1200 Years since makes one of the Sides near the Bridge the other two is an Acrade under which the Merchants meet about their Affairs of Commerce Behind the Church of St. James on the side of the great Canal you behold a very ancient Building and for the most part of Marble under which are most dismal Prisons it was formerly the Palace or Court of Justice for the whole City they yet continue it the Assessions-house of several Magistrates for Causes both Civil and Criminal appertaining to the Jurisdiction of the Rialto There is upon the same side of the great Canal a large arched Building in which they sell all sorts of Provisions the great number of Vessels that cometh daily to these Places laden with Fruits Roots and Fish which they bring from the Isles adjacent and Continent do evidently shew the Greatness of this City Yet wherein most appears the mighty Riches of this City is the extraordinary number of Goldsmiths and Jewellers at the end of the Street over-against the Bridge where may be seen the finest and richest Stones of Europe Of the Arsenal of Venice THere is nothing so famous as the Arsenal of Venice nor any thing that does so much demonstrate the Power of this Republick it is the Object of all Strangers Admiration and the Foundation of the Strength of the State The Grand Signior values it so much as by Report to prefer it to whatever else the State possesseth It is of a large Circumference being more than 2 Miles about taking up all the Eastern Division of the City from which it is only separated by a small Canal that washes three sides of it and the Lagunes the fourth that lies towards the North it is inclosed with very high Walls and Towers at certain Distances where is kept a very exact Guard especially in the Night the Centinels can by little Bells in those Towers advertise the Corps du Guard in case of Attempts and other Accidents of Fire that may casually happen or premeditately break forth upon the Instigations of any secret Enemy It was the first thing that was to have been executed in the Conspiracy of the Spaniards in the Year 1618 whilst the other Confederates attack'd the Body of the Nobility in the Palace of St. Mark but Heaven prevented the Blow by the means of two French Men that had received some Hints of their Design and immediately took Post to inform the Senate of their Danger The Arsenal is so important to the Republick that there is not any thing which gives them so much occasion of Care and Distrust for not only the security of the City and State but likewise the greatest part of this Republick's Power depends upon it It would take up a whole Volume to describe all that is remarkable in the Arsenal therefore I shall let it suffice to observe in general That there are in the several Apartments a most surprizing quantity of Arms both for Horse and Foot as likewise for the Ships and Gallies all very neat and kept in an extraordinary order you see in one Room the necessary Arms for 10000 Men in another for 20000 even to a third and fourth for 30 or 40000 each The same Care is here observed in reference of the Naval Stores for in one Room there are the Necessaries for 20 Gallies another 30 and a fourth of 40 On one hand you see all sorts of Arms for 40 Ships on the other for 10 Galeasses In short it 's almost impossible to imagine what a prodigious quantity of Arms there is in these Magazines The Republick entertained Henry the Third in great State when he visited the Arsenal where the Pleasure they gave him in seeing a Galley fitted up and rigg'd out while he was at Dinner was not the least Satisfaction they Complimented His Majesty with during the time he stayed at Venice Under these Rooms there are several distinct Store-houses for all sorts of Furniture and Military Equipage It is reckoned there are above 800 Pieces of Cannon for the Service of Sea and Land of Bullets Bombs Granades and Mortars a proportionable Number and even the same of Collars for the Artillery-Horses The Masts Yards Oars Pulleys Sails Ropes Anchors Nails and all sort of Iron-work necessary in the building of Ships are here kept in their separate and distinct Places insomuch that whatsoever is necessary for any Expedition of either Sea or Land may be seen in the greatest abundance Without doubt they are always in a condition of fitting out a Hundred Gallies or Galeasses and as able to Arm a Hundred thousand Men which would be more than sufficient to allarm the greatest Potentates of Europe if Men and Money were equally answerable to these mighty Stores There are in the Arsenal Three very large wet Docks which are supplied with Water by the Lagunes round which are a great many Houses large enough to contain Two Vessels and keep them from the injuries of the Weather here they refit and build their Vessels Gallies and Galleasses which are not Launch'd until they design to use them These places are not only full of whatsoever is necessary for present Service but likewise of the remainders of their victorious Armies and the many Prizes they have taken from the Turks in those signal Victories they have frequently obtain'd both by Sea and Land By these mighty Stores the Republick is ever able to fit out in a very small time a Fleet of Forty Gallies and as many Galleasses of Nine or Ten that are in the Docks there is one of an extraordinary largeness but not yet finish'd This sort of Vessels are equal to the largest Ships in Length and
broader than the rest being advanc'd out like the head of a great Cleaver that is something better than a Foot broad so dividing the Air by the swift motion of the Gondola it looks as if it would cut down whatsoever opposeth its passage The better to strengthen these high and slight ends of the Gondola's against the rough shocks they sometimes occasion each other as likewise to set off the great Iron head there are fixed under it six other Plates of Iron at Four Inches distance each Eight or Ten Inches long and something more than Three broad which Plates are round and much broader at the out end than where it is fasten'd at the head in short it is all Hammer work fil'd and so curiously polish'd that it is no ways less becoming to the Gondola than necessary to the safety and strengthening of the Prow As the Gondola's do seldom come foul of each other by the Poope or lower end so there is only a square Iron that comes up from the Keel and Flat but round at the Top upon which most have instead of large Nailes Foliage and other wrought Works of Iron which represents the Poope of the Gondalo no ways less pleasing than the Iron at the Head which they call a Dolphin only Ambassadours Ministers of Princes and such as are not subject to the Laws of Regulating Apparel and these sort of things can pretend to have Dolphins at both ends of their Gondola's The Gondolaes are not built of this great length so much for the conveniency of Carriage as for the dextrous working of them their head is built up like a litle Ridge which returns equally sloping to the sides the Prow is round at bottom and totally raised out of the Water for the greater expedition it is likewise raised and covered as the Head The whole Body of the Gondola is so neatly rubb'd over with a mixture of Pitch and Oil that it perfectly looks like Varnish Under the Water they are tallowed with black Grease that gives them an extraordinary easie passage through the Water they seem to divide When they fit out a Gondola they spread a long Carpet at the bottom of it upon Planks that are very well joyn'd which reach from the Poop unto the Two Steps at the cover'd part of the Head end which are there made for the conveniency of coming in and going out They fix in the middle of the Gondola a covering of about Eight Foot long under which one may stand upright This is supported by Two great Demi-Circles whose Four ends being pointed are fixed into as many niches in the sides several long sticks handsomly turn'd at the ends are fastned at the top of the Circles Il felee that support the Tilt which is upon occasion cast over all the rest to defend them from the injuries of the Weather At the lower end of this Cover they place cross-ways a Board covered with black Leather that serves for a Seat as likewise Il trasto another Bench handsomly covered against the Demi-circle behind which serves as a Back-board to a couple of Persons that may conveniently sit here as the most Honourable Place They have likewise a Bench on each side of the first that will hold Four People or Six if close plac'd together whose Backs are supported by Two long Poles and Boards that are on each side fastned to the Pedestal of the Circles When they would defend themselves from the Rain they spread the great covering of Black Serge that comes down to the top of the Water Il sopra felce at which time nothing can look more uncouth or more like the true resemblance of a Coffin The two Circles before-mention'd are the Two principal pieces of the Gondola whose greatest Beauty consists Li Cerchi in the largeness of the Front of these Circles which are made through much strength and ingenuity to effect it they take the half of a Hoop about 10 or 12 Inches in breadth and 3 thick by the means of certain Engines they bend these Circles with the thin side brought downwards whose alternative part consequently maketh the upper side of the Circle and the broader it is in the Front the more estimable it is to which end they leave the middlemost part larger than the sides which gives it a very handsom appearance When a Gondola is handsomly fitted with a suit of Curtains a little black Coverlet fring'd and neatly tyed about with Il feleci Ribbons as likewise Four great Tossels beating against the Circles which they keep very white with two lesser Tossels for the more handsome comportment of the Body One cannot but acknowledge these Water Machines to be extreamly pretty although they are not allowed to be Adorned with any thing but Black excepting the Foot-cloth which is a Moquette or any other Stuff of that nature Ambassadors Ministers of Princes and other exempted Persons that are not of the Body of the Nobility have usually their Gondolas carved and finely Gilt both within and without Adorn'd with rich Brocades together with the Arms of the Prince and Ambassadors It is nevertheless necessary to observe the usual Form and proportion of the common Gondola without which they will not be agreeable to the Eyes of the Venetians who would certainly ridicule them as they lately did that of an Ambassador's from one of the greatest Princes in Italy who had placed a Crown upon the top of the covering which gave them occasion to compare his Gondalo to a Pye Custom and use have established the Left hand in the Gondalo to be the chiefest place but the Reasons alledg'd for it in affirming that one is less subject to be wet on that side by the dashing of the Oars are directly against common Experience for my own part I am of the Opinion that formerly they making use but of one Oar as the Ferry-Boats still continue which lye of one side almost equal to the Water by the standing of the Gondolier in this manner by the Keel's taking so much less Water they make not only much more Expedition but have likewise an easier passage consequently the person on the Left hand hath an easier place than the other at the Right who sits tottering upon the declining of the Seat and not without some inconveniency Of the Activity of the Gondoliers THey do not follow the same Methods in the Gondola's and Boats of Venice as they do in all other places of Europe for here they stand an end pushing forwards with their Oars who are never more than two even in the Gondola's of Ambassadors excepting those occasions that may oblige a Person of Quality to pass into the Country at which times they ordinarily double the number The foremost Rower stands between the covered part of the Boat and the two Steps at the entrance who supports his Oar upon the side of a Board that is raised a Foot higher than the edge of the Gondola about two Fingers
thick and made hollow for the more easie play of the Oar. The Gondolier behind stands on the Poop to see over the Tilt or Covering that so he may have a right Steerage He is upon a long Board that reaches above four Fingers beyond the Left side of the covered part of the Poop insomuch that he is quite out of the Gondola holding the end of a long Oar that is supported on the Right side by a piece of Wood like to the other at the head but about Two Foot high After this manner he Rows keeping stroke to the Gondolier before without which the Gondola can neither go right or even It is very agreeable to observe the Air and Grace these Men affect in the management of their Gondola's they stand most an end upon their Right Leg with the Left stretch'd out behind them their Body bending down and quite out of the Gondola whereby if it happens that they run foul of one another at the turning of any corner for want of giving timely notice or by the breaking of an Oar they are certain to fall into the Water which is no great trouble or inconveniency to them unless it chance to fall out at the course where the mighty number of Boats and the swiftness of their motion does not seldom occasion them the utmost danger As the Gondoliers have not their Oars any ways fastned to the Gondola so they make their stroaks either shorter or longer according to the breadth of the Canal or the multitude of Gondola's that are frequently seen together Nothing can be more charming than the easiness of this passage you Eat and Drink quietly Read Converse Sing Play upon all sorts of Instruments without any manner of inconvenincy or probability of Danger One cannot without admiring behold them pass so direct smooth and fast avoid in a moment such obstacles as one not us'd to them must think impossible turn the corners of the Canals with so great exactness and expedition that it is no ways capable of a description stop short in their full course turn or go back with an equal facility In short they govern those Boats with the utmost dexterity which are the effects of an Address that cannot but surprize all who see them The Gondoliers do constantly every night take away all that is loose or not fixed to their Gondola which they carry home with them they take down the whole Tilt or Covering La Caponera together which they call La Caponera afterwards whatsoever else is not safe to leave abroad in the Morning early they Equip their Gondalo with the same ease and expedition The conveniency of having at Venice all things necessary to a great City BEsides those Advantages here common to all Maritime Cities the City of Venice hath a more peculiar one which comes from her being situated in the middle of the Lagunes For she is the Center in which several Rivers do end as the Po the Adige the Brente and the Piave besides a great many Canals this Republick hath made in their Territories for the conveniency of bringing whatsoever is necessary by the Brente which the remotest Provinces of Tuscany produce The Vessel you take at Turin brings you to whatever House you please in Venice without which conveniency of passage it would be a very difficult Matter to see that mighty abundance there is at Venice of all things necessary to a great City Few particulars would be able to build the fine Houses one sees here The Wood is floated down hither Stone and Marble are brought partly upon the floated Timber and partly upon those great Pontons that cross even the Adriatick Gulph In this manner all sorts of Materials are brought hither by an admirable ease from a thousand different places into all the several Quarters and House of this City The great expence of Venice is what they are obliged unto in the foundation of their Buildings for besides the great quantity of piles and great Stones necessary to that work the Damms only they are forced to make against the Water to bring the place into a condition of being work'd upon lies them in very considerable Sums A Procurator of St. Mark offered lately Eight thousand Ducats which is about Fourteen hundred pounds Sterling to stop the Water sink and raise about 60 Foot in length to the surface of the Water La Procurator Bon. the Front of a Palace which he was at that time going to build upon the great Canal By the conveniency of Boats they cry about the City their Fruits Roots Wood Wine Provisions and all sorts of Houshold-Ware whereby a poor Man that is but able to purchase an Oar is sufficiently qualified to get an honest Livelyhood You see Old Men Women and Children managing all sorts of Boats as likewise many begging Monks who implore your Charity in the Boats they work But what is most admirable is to see little Children alone managing of great Boats laden with Merchandize that contain more than Twenty Carts would be able to draw which is of mighty conveniency to such as must remove their Families for one Man can carry at once all their Goods without the least damage Of the Trade of Venice VEnice is so advantagiously situated for Commerce that since the foundation of the Republick to the present Age there hath been scarce any City in Europe more known for it Formerly the Venetians were the only Traders into the Levant and Eastern India for their Vessels received at Aleppo and Alexandria such Commodities as were brought from Egypt Syria and the Red Sea which they afterwards Transported into all the Ports of Europe selling them at such prizes they were pleas'd to set upon them The Spaniard discovering the Riches of the West-Indies through the bold attempts of Christopher Columbus which inspiring the Portugueze and some other Nations with the courage of passing the Line and doubling the Cape of Good-Hope did the Venetians undoubtedly more damage than all the chargeable Wars they have had with the Turks But of all those who have gained by the New Discoveries none have done it with a success equal to that of the Hollanders who have found the means of making themselves the Masters of all Trade The most considerable Trade that remaineth now to the Venetians are only those of Constantinople and Germany For which reason the vending of their rich Silks and other principal Manufactures is of the last importance to them therefore they continue these Trades with the greatest application Besides these they furnish Germany Italy and Spain with Chrystal and Looking-Glasses France with Velvets and Brocades and all places with their Points excepting France where they are prohibited and Manufactures established for the making of them yet notwithstanding that perfection they have attained they continue to value most those of Venice It is hardly to be believed what great quantities of Brouards Damasks and Cloaths of Gold that the Turks and Armenians do continually send From
colder and more dangerous all over Italy yet at Venise they undress to their Shirts so pass the Evening uncovered in their Gondola's or in walking by the Canals without perceiving the least of inconveniencies The greatest part of such who find themselves convinc'd by experience and who are loath to admit the Air to be naturally good in such a situation attribute the cause of this healthfulness to the great number of Fires that must continually be in so compact and populous a City for my own part I do not deny but that the great number of Fires may for a time resist the bad Effects of an ill Air but I am perswaded besides the accustomed moderation of their Hearths at Venice that it is scarcely to be believed that the ordinary Fires of a Town can have so much in-influence as to alter the nature of the Air and render it healthful in all times of the year It may be believed with more probability that the continual salt Vapours of the Sea with which this Air must abound preserves it in one constant quality and more easily hinders those various inonveniencies as being less subject to receive the thick exhalations of the Earth which are undoubtedly of a more suffocating nature consisting of corrosive Salts that abound in most Grounds which have a greater force and disposition to corrupt the goodness of the Air than the strongest influences of the most malevolent Planets so allowing that the nature of the place renders the Air of Venice subject to frequent alterations yet nevertheless it preserves it self without altering the quality However to speak truth the Climate is not very agreeable in Winter for as this City is every where open so it is consequently exposed to all Winds this season is so cold and troublesome here that I may say as it is hotter here than it is at Paris so one feels a more sharper cold but indeed it is not of such long continuance to which may be replied that it is not so easy to keep off the Cold here as it is in many other places for whatsoever Care one uses in closing the Curtains of the Gondola yet they can never be so close as the well fix'd Glasses of a Coach Yet the pleasure of Venice in the Summer does amply recompence the inconveniencies of the Winter for during the greatest Heats you are no sooner in your Gondola but you are sure to enjoy upon the Canals even at Noon-day a most agreeable refreshing Air but it is most commonly Two Hours before Sun set that one begins to be sensible of those delightful Breezes that are yet infinitely more pleasant in the Evening at which time you enjoy the pleasure of the Water without disturbance frequently meeting extraordinary good Voices and upon the great Canal extraordinary fine Concerts of Musick which the Gallants of the City have in Boats to Serenade the Ladies and Nuns who are much pleased with these Diversions They are so extreamly fond here of these Nigh Concerts that upon the least notice of them ' the great Canal is oftentimes not large enough for those great number of Gondola's that come to partake of the Diversion the liberty of the Night and sweetness of the Air equally inspires with desire both Sexes to pass away endeshabille the Evenings upon the Water every one endeavours to avoid being known so you find a mighty silence in the midst of this great concourse fully and quietly enjoying the pleasure of the Musick and the most agreeable Delights of the cool Breezes Of the Ebbing and Flowing of the Sea and Lagunes of Venice I will finish this first part with the observations I have made upon the Ebbe and Flood which are very considerable both in the Lagunes and City of Venice The Tide does regularly Ebbe and Flow Twice in Four and twenty Hours which keeping the Water ever clean and clear in the Canals is one of the greatest conveniencies and those extraordinary advantages that Venice enjoys in her Situation as likewise one of the most particular things worthy of a Stranger 's observation There are two reasons of admiration in the Ebbe and Flood of the Lagunes at Venice The first is because we have not thorougly penetrated into the general causes of the Sea 's rising and falling the second is seeing there is scarce any appearance of either Ebbe or Flood in the whole Mediterranean and Adriatick Gulph yet that of the Lagunes at Venice is very great as likewise regulated to certain times I shall not amuse my self and the Reader by reporting the many extravagant opinions of several Authours in relation to the general causes of so extraordinary a matter Some do only entertain the curiosity of their Readers with Fables and others with such improbable and abstruse reasons as merit no consideration here Among the Philosophers of the present Age Galileas hath very ingeniously attributed it to the motion of the Earth making it appear as a necessary consequence to the reasons he alledges for it Not to detain my self upon a matter that may be difficult to render apparent I shall think it sufficient to observe here that the Ebbe and Flood does answer exactly to the motion of the Moon falling every day like her 50 Minutes later than the preceding the Tides being higher in the new and full Moons than in either of the other quarters as also the same difference between the Equinoctial and Solstice it is much to be suppos'd that the Body and motion of the Moon are the real causes of the Ebbe and Flood as likewise those many various accidents that attend them As the Opinion of Monsieur Descartes is satisfactory with all the probability that can be desir'd in reference to this Wonder that hath for so many Ages kept the World in Suspence so it is reasonable we should admit it for the best at least until Reason or Experience shall make those Discoveries that may afford our Judgments more Natural and Sensible Arguments of the contrary So allowing this to be the general Cause of the Ebbes and Floods one may in Course come to the Reason of those in the Lagunes at Venice It is impossible that the Cause which produceth the Flux and Reflux of the Ocean should have those Effects in that vast Masse of Water without making any Impression upon those of the Mediterranean but the reason why it is not so very apparent must be attributed to the manner of the Tides flowing in the Ocean which is throughout that Sea between the Tropicks and Poles from the South to the North Whereas the Mediterranean lying considerably on this side the Tropick and only a sort of a great Canal from the East to the West and very small of breadth in comparison to the Ocean so it is not to be imagin'd that the Flux and Reflux can be very sensible there as well because this Sea is very narrow in breadth from North to South as likewise by reason of the distant situation from the
Line and Tropicks in which places the Flux hath the most considerable effects From hence it comes that the Tides make but a small impression upon the Mediterranean which not being able to move the Waters causeth in them only Currents in many places as may be observ'd in the Sea of Genoa the Phare of Messina and several other Islands of the Archipelago But as the Adriatick Sea is a Gulph of the Meditarrenean and the most Northern part of it so consequently the impression it suffers being neither interrupted or stopt by such Coasts at the mouth of the Gulph that hinders its flowing in most other places so it must indubitably occasion the Waters to fall in here keeping their course along the Coasts to the very utmost end of the Gulf where being stopt they must necessarily rise until they have attained a moderate height This is exactly what is observ'd in this Sea for upon the Coasts of Calabria and the Kingdom of Naples you can only remark a setting of the Water without any manner of Elevation but in the middle of the Gulph and at Ancona the Flood begins to be visibly apparent which becomes infinitely more sensible at Rimini Ravenna upon the Lido of Venice and at Aquilea which lies directly in the very bottom of the Gulph The Flux of the Ocean is greater as it is distant from the places where it begins which is between the Two Tropicks consequently causing the Tides to be much higher upon the Northern than upon the Southern Coasts so the Tide of the Adriatick Gulph making only a small impression in the beginning by degrees appears at the lower end of the Sea a very considerable Tide and the more by reason this motion ever gains new force by its continuation So I am at present to give my reason for the Tides being much higher in the Lagunes and Canals of Venice than they are even in the Gulph it self I attribute it to the nature and disposition of the Place which I have already describ'd in the beginning of this part shewing them to be Plains that the Sea overflow'd when she made those Breaches in that Neck of Land which formerly denied her entrance For that little the Flood is in the Sea is by these natural Dikes which sustain the violencies and afterward permitting an open passage into the Lagunes mightily increas'd especially after having pass'd those Channels formerly mention'd it comes to be of so much consideration by many reasons more palpable than those I have alledg'd that what is not but little considerable in the Sea occasions of course a very considerable Flood in the Lagunes In short there is Six hours Tide of Flood which being stopt by the Coasts of Terra firma it then commonly rises to the height of Four foot in the Canals of Venice so takes its Course to the Sea through the Waters being fallen by the Ebbe of the Gulph which affords it the requisite means of returning in the same space of time and through the same places that the Flood brought it into the Lagunes One may in a Calm Season at the Mouth of the Lido observe with much pleasure the making of the Tide you see of a sudden and from time to time behold certain great Waves that mount themselves above the smooth surface of the Water which after having for some time held a murmuring and impetuous Course do at length loose themselves in the Lagunes at considerabe distance from the place where they first appear'd In this manner the Water is rais'd by the Flood and the Lagunes Swell'd like a great Sea whose Islands in the middle seem to be as many Sands and half drown'd Cities At or about half Ebbe you begln to see the Lagunes lie uncover'd of Wâ—ter which then seem to be about the City so many fine Meadows cross which the Tide hath made several Canals for the discharge of the Waters which are at all times deep enough for the greatest Barque to which purpose the most considerable of them are as hath been observed set out with Piles by which they keep on their Way when the Lagunes are cover'd without any danger of running aground It is nothing less particular than agreeable to behold the Canals of this City that seem to be so many Rivers change the Course of their Stream every Six hours which is more remarkable in the great Canals but especially in such as are long straight and whose extremities lie to the Sea they receive the Water directly without any circulation which must always diminish something of that Force attending the motions of the Ebbe and Flood of these Tides It is observable at Venice that the Canals after the Winter Solstice and espcially in February are drain'd so very low that they are frequently not able to make use of their Gondola's for several Hours between the times of Ebbe and Flood excepting the great Canal which by reason of the great Currant there both in the ebbing and flowing of the Tides does always preserve a sufficient depth without being ever cleansed which they are frequently oblig'd to do with extraordinary charges in the other Canals of Venice Upon the blowing of the Syroc which is the South-east Wind the Tide flows so high as to cover with Water all the Keys of the City the quarter from whence this Wind comes does directly answer the Situation of the Gulph and so mightily augments the strength of the Tide that the Sea did once overflow all the Streets and Places and fill'd with salt Water all the Wells of Venice End of the First Part. OF THE CITY AND Republick of Venice PART II. Of the Foundation of the Republick of Venice and their Form of Government The First Rise of Venice THE Manner of Peopling the Isles of the Lagunes and the Qualities of their first Inhabitants are variously represented Some bring them from the City of Vannes in Britany by reason they were called Veneti in Caesar's Commentaries others will have it that they were Originally only Fishers As if the best Provinces of Italy such as those are in the State of Venice could probably want Inhabitants and that the Advantagious Situation of these Islands was not likely to draw to them some considerable Persons as well as so many Poor Eugitives in that Calamitous time which furnish'd this Countrey with Inhabitants For my own part I shall not detain my self here to assert my Opinion as being contented to follow the most probable Conjectures and such which best shew us the true beginnings of the City and Republick of Venice After the Emperour Constantine the Great had remov'd the Seat of the Empire to Constantinople Italy was afflicted with a long continuance of mis-fortunes and frequently harrass'd with the Invasions of the Barbarians In the Year 407 the Goths under their King Radagaisius over-run Italy putting all to Fire and Sword The Neighbouring People to the Lagunes found their safest Protection in those Maritime Islands in the most part of which Isles were
are usually possess'd by Nobles of the first and Second Orders that Scruple not to attain unto these Employs by others that are inferior to them and the less being there are besides the advantage of Thirty Ducates a Month Salary many opportunities of bringing themselves into consideration among the rest of the Nobility by the means of their entrance into the Senate and several other advantages which their Offices give them of attaining the principal Employs The Nobles of rich families that are desirous of the merits that are acquir'd in this Office make use of their utmost endeavors and deepest intrigues to attain unto this Magistacy without passing the other two Councils of Forty which are the usual steps to that of the Criminal but these Offices the rich Nobles infinitely esteem beneath them Of the method of proceeding in Criminal Cases UPon the committing of a Crime at Venice iâ— looks as if they applied themselves more to procure the necessary proofs of the fact than to secure the offenders And after they have got those proofs they send the Captain Grand to force open the door of his House which is searohd in much order and upon this Officers reporting that he could not find him he is Summon'd to appear at such a time more or less ample according to the enormity of the crime during which time the Criminal is safe provided he appears not at the publick places of St. Mark and Rialto he may likewise desire three farther Prolongations of time and if he sees it will not be easy to prove his innocency or to extricate himself out of the affair by the favour of a Protector he provides for his sasety by the lightness of his heels which is no very difficult matter if he hath the assistance of a Noble whose Gondalo will Transport him out of the State setting him upon the Coast of Ferrara or else the first Gondalo Lands him upon Terra firma from whence he can easily get out of the State of the Republick From whence it proceeds that the Major part of Criminals are at Venice condemn'd by contempt this being what they call Bandire but the sentence of Judgment is accompanied with these or other circumstances proportionable to the crime That the condemn'd can never purchase his favour as it is practis'd at Venice that he who kills him within the States of the Republick shall have such a Summ which shall be payed double if he kills him in another Country And if the crime does any ways sensibly touch the Republick they add to this reward the power of pardon to another Criminal that so they may deprive the Offender of all means of Security Yet it happened notwithstanding the Sentence of the Council of Ten against the young Mocenigo for shooting of Foscarini as before observed was accompanied with all the rigour that is usual in the greatest offences against the State the Betrayers of their Country and the intacco di cassa which is the Embezelling of the Publick Treasure that this Noble had his pardon and was re-establish'd in his Estate and Nobility When the Offender is in prison and his case ready to be heard the Avogador orders it upon what day he pleases at which time the Criminal is brought to the feet of the Judges where he alledges all he can against him exaggerating the crime with all the Circumstances that can render it odious always concluding with the merits of a very vigorous punishment In all these publick Actions as likewise in the Speeches that are made in the Senate and in the Great Council the Nobility and Lawyers are to speak no other than the Venetian Language excepting in the Introductions of their discourses where they may make use of the pure Italian if they can or otherwise this affectation would undoubtedly cause a ridiculous Emulation which must at length render them unintelligible to the Publick Besides the natural Language is most consistent with the dignity of the Nation which of late times is much improved in regard to what it was for I have observed that in their Pleadings they affect a masculine stile which words and expressions have much of the Latin Tongue and likewise seem to have a greater force and Energy than those of the Tuscan The Counsel for the Party replies to all the heads of the accusation in short he Employs his whole force and runs through all the figures of Retorick in his pleading to move the Judges to pity he even descends from the chair where he speaks throws himself at their feet with the Offender his wife and his Children all in tears to implore the mercy of the Bench. This Melancholly Spectacle which resembles the custom of the ancient Romans inspires so much pity to the Assenbly that it even causes tears from the most obdurate Natures There is always a great Number of People at these Criminal causes who sit on each side and upon the steps of the Tribunal that is very much raised from the Floor but it is very Surprising to see the most part of them that come hither out of curiosity sitting in masks between the Judge and the Criminal It is one of the Privileges of that Venetian Liberty which this Republick so mightily boasts of After the Council hath spoke every body retires and then they ballot the Opinion of the Avogadors against that proposed by the Judges which is the most moderate so the plurality of balls decides it they do moreover determine by ballotation all the Circumstances of the Punishment and in this manner these Judges pass Sentence of Life and Death without being oblig'd to express the Reason of their Opinions or without knowing who is either for or against the Criminal as they are the Masters and Sovereigns so no Body examines if they have the Necessary knowledge or taken their degrees in the Faculties of the Law to render them Capable of these Judicatures But they Judge according to their Laws as do the Officers in an Army according to the Military Statutes their conscience and their Natural Lights are the Principal Rules of their Judgment The greatest Inconveniency in the Justice of Venice is the great length of time before they proceed to the Trials of Criminal Matters usually letting the offender Lie and Rot in their Miserable Prisons for to Expiate as they say some part of their Crime by this long Punishment Yet what seems to me more Rigorous are the frequent condmnations to dark Prisons for Eight Ten or more Years and often for Life for the Hideousness of their Prisons which are almost under Water is certainly something more Terrible than Death it self Moreover the Republick having great occasions for Slaves Sentence of Condemnation to the Galleys is pass'd for very small Crimes But the abuse that reigneth at Venice of shewing Favour for Money must certainly be a very Dangerous Maxim Notwithstanding the considerable Profit of the invention which brings Great Treasures to the Republick yet it is an Encouragement to
old Halbards others with great Scymiters some with Pikes and others with old fashion'd Spadons which they carry naked between both their Hands When the Seignory comes down into a great Room that is even with the Galleries of the first Floor of the Palace this pleasant Militia passes in a Re-view before the Doge and the Ambassadors The variety of their Arms and Habits join'd to the Irregularity of their March occasions a Sight the most extraordinary in its nature that I ever yet beheld For some run others march gravely some make their most profound Reverences to the Seignory and others strutting by without taking notice of them All this is perform'd with the Sounding of Trumpets that run a Foot at the Head of each Company in short this whole Ceremony resembles more some Popular Emotion than any Publick Rejoicing From hence they pass to the Piazza that go's out upon the Place where they are no sooner arriv'd but he of the Butchers to whom the Honour of the Execution is design'd with one flourish of his Sword strikes off the Head of the Bull in presence of almost the whole City the Place the Palace the Procuratories and several Scaffolds erected on this occasion being all full with an infinite number of People that come hither to see the Ceremony as likewise to partake of the Diversions that attend it of which the Fire-works at two in the Afternoon seem the most singular To all these is usually added that most agreeable Spectacle to the People of seeing a Man fly down a Cord which is fastned to the Steeple of St. Mark at one end and the other to the Galley that lyes between the two Columns At this time all the City seems to be in a terrible Confusion which continues the rest of the Week every one being Jours gras permitted to wear in his own Defence excepting some Arms what sort of Weapons he pleases which is by reason of the great many Bulls that are Baited in several Places and afterwards run through the City One sees the Populace glittering with Axes Sabres naked Swords great Forks and Iron-headed Clubs insomuch that one can hardly believe but that all the City of which the Shops are shut must be in some dreadful Sedition so all such as are any ways apprehensive of Enemies are sure to be upon their Guards these last tumultuous Days of the Carnaval Of the Fresque THE Diversion of the Fresque is not only the first of all those which the pleasant Weather brings in but it is likewise the most agreeable to the Ladies and Gentlemen as it is also the most singular and the most surprizing thing that a Stranger can see at Venice for so they call the Cours and the Evening-Diversions upon the Waters It is certain one cannot give it a more proper Name than that of the Fresque for in the greatest heats of Summer one is sure to be free from those sultry Heats and clouds of Dust that are so troublesom in other Places on the contrary you are during those Heats here sensible of a charming Coolness for it would be even impossible to take this Diversion in any other Seasons than that of the Spring and Summer They regularly begin the Fresque upon the second Holy-day of Easter which continues unto Saint Jerom's Day being one of the last in September But as the Ladies do not dress themselves every Day by reason most of them live very retir'd so it comes to pass that the Fresque is only us'd upon Sundays and Holy-days and some particular solemn Days of Churches which the Gentledonna's frequent or upon the occasion of any Publick Rejoycings to which the Ladies are Invited For during the good Season all these Diversions are ended with the Fresque which is taken towards the end of the Great Canal over against the Church of Saint Jerom being this Place is less frequented with Barques and other Vessels Besides such as are desirous to see this agreeable Diversion may conveniently see it upon one of the two Keys which are at this Place of an indifferent length upon each side of the Great Canal They begin to appear at the Fresque about the three and twentieth hour that is a good half hour before Sun-set The Company comes by degrees and the Gondoliers shew not their vigour in the beginning but make an easy way by turning backwards and forwards in the length of eight hundred Paces but these Men by insensibly putting on or the emulation that always reigns amongst them animates them to excite each the other it so happens at length they pass with so much force and swiftness that it is hardly to be credited and the Sweat that comes through their Sattin-Doublets which they who are in Liveries do generally wear shew plainly they are not less wet than if they had been dipt in the Canal It is not long since this Diversion of the Fresque was introduc'd or at least brought to what it is at present For the Gentleman that first establish'd it do's yet enjoy the satisfaction of his Invention who for having been the Author of this agreeable and singular Diversion do's certainly deserve to have his Statue erected in the middle of the Great Canal Such as are not accustomed to the Gondalos do not at first relish the Pleasures of this Recreation for when they see this part of the Great Canal covered with three or four hundred Gondolos that continually pass by each other with an inconceivable dexterity and swiftness their Heads run round and they imagine they are just upon the point of being crush't in pieces and inevitably lost In reality the Sight of a great many Gondolos that are working one way and just ready to run upon others that steer an opposite course both of them making such good use of their Oars that the Water is all in a froth from the swifness of their motions is enough to make one imagine that either the one or the other must be broke into a thousand Pieces Yet by the Agility and Experience of these Gondoliers upon which the most timerous repose themselves without fear of Danger these thin and nimble Boats do pass like Lightning without hurting each other The worst of it is one is sometimes a little wet for the Water being so violently agitated and press'd between two Gondolos holding a different Course do's frequently fly over so unexpectedly that it is almost impossible in those occasions to avoid the small inconveniency of it As the Salt-Water is apt to spot any coloured Silks so the Ladies provide against those Accidents by turning up their uppermost Petticoat They are generally alone and attended only by one or two Waiting-Women at most But those that are particular Friends do oftentimes take this Diversion together and leave their Women behind them When there are four of 'em they place themselves at the Corners of the Gondolo regarding each other like speechless Statues for their principal Employ is to observe the
the Nobles that present themselves to the Ladies are not to take the Refusal amiss for which reason they do not Address themselves to a Lady unless she be without her Glove which is an assured Sign that the Lady will not decline the Offer since according to the Custom of Venice it would be a high piece of ill Breeding for a Lady to give a Gentleman her Hand with the Glove on The Pleasures of these Balls are only to the Venetian Nobility for Strangers and the Nobles in Masques are not admitted to the liberty of Dancing However both the one and the other endeavour to Entertain the Ladies they like at least they have the satisfaction of taking a full View of them and if they are in Intrigue with them they endeavour to make use of the favourable Juncture which is very rare by reason they are too narrowly observ'd in these Places Yet during the last hour of the Ball the Masques are usually permitted to Dance It is then that our Secret Lovers make the best of the Opportunity and that they may Entertain their Mistersses with more freedom and less suspicion they frequently find the means of expeditiously changing their Habits As there are very few Husbands who are not inquisitive to know with whom their Wives have Danc'd so there are likewise but few of the Ladies that are not able to answer the Impertinencies of such frivolous Questions However no Body but the Brothers and the nearest of Kin to the Gentledonnas do assume the liberty of talking familiarly with them who sit fix'd in their Chairs like so many Statues all the Gentlemen standing at some little distance from them while the Masques and the Strangers go through the Rows considering with much ease the Beauties of the Ladies as they slowly pass by them In the mean time they are continually ply'd with cover'd Crystal-Cups of Sherbet and all sorts of ic'd Waters The Venetian Gentry and the Strangers have their Shares of these Liquors but for the Entertainment of the others there is a separate Chamber In this manner these Marriage-Feasts continue for the space of two Days that is from two in the Afternoon until the Hour of the Fresque in the Evening and in Winter they Dance by Candle-Light until it is Supper-time Of the Regate or Rowing-Matches of the Gondolo ' s. WHEN the Republick thinks fit to Entertain a Prince or any Foreigner of Quality with a Publick Sight it is usually with the Diversion of the Regate that is a Tryal of Skill is appointed between several sorts of Boats These are the beloved Holy-days and the Darling-Diversion of Venice for the Use of the Oar is so much the Genius of the People that every one in a manner applies himself to it as likewise the greatest part of the young Nobility not only through the design of shewing their great Strength and Address but that they may upon certain Occasions be able to dispense with the Service of their Gondoliers especially in those Transactions that are perform'd best without Witnesses When a considerable Regate is design'd there is order'd a certain number of middle and lesser siz'd Gondolo's with as many Fisolero's which are so very small and light that they may be easily carried upon a Man's Shoulders These Matches are commonly for three of each sort of these Boats one with four Oars the other of two and the the third but one The diversity renders the Shew very pleasant which is yet more for the greater number of Matches They who strive for the Regate or Prize of the Gondolo's endeavour to chuse them that are the lightest and best Built from whence they take all the Furniture even so much as the two Irons at the ends They Scrape and Tallow her and sometimes use Soap to render her way thro' the Water more easy Yet least these disfurnish'd Boats might chance to open through the great stress of the Action they fasten a Rope very strongly from the Head to her Stern nailing cross her several light Triangular Plates which mightily preserves her from the Violence of the Agitation They that have the Management of the other sort of Boats do use the like necessary Precautions as likewise to prepare themselves for it with Exercising their Bodies and trying their Boats Nothing can be finer than the Great Canal upon which they Row these Matches The Balconies and Windows of all the Houses and Palaces are Adorn'd with rich Carpets and Cushions and fill'd with mighty numbers of People The Roofs of the Houses the Bridge of Rialto and a prodigious number of Gondolos and Barques on both sides are cover'd with People In this manner appear'd that Regate which Cardinal Delfino made not long since for the Cardinal Chigi notwithstanding he was then at Venice Incognito To render this Diversion the finer several of the Young Nobility set out certain Peotes These are long Barques that have a Deck of Planks upon which are spread Carpets of Damask or Turkey-Work that reach even down to the Water Ten Gondoliers all clad in the same Livery have the working of these Vessels which they ever do standing upright and the two or three Nobles that are at the Expence of the Boat lye in Masques upon the Cushions that are at the Head attended by several Trumpets in the Stern The great Number and the variety of the Peotes are the principal Ornaments of these Sights which are always made in fair Weather The Boats that are to Row for the Prizes do meet at that end of the City nearest the Lido where those that are Equipp'd for the same Match lye rang'd in a Line from whence they give way upon the Signal that is made them by the Trumpets It would be no great Diversion to see the Boats that contend for the Prizes pass alone with much swiftness but the Peotes which in a manner fly through the Water do preceed the rest to obviate all Embarassments that would be otherwise continually happening The great number of Four-Oar Gondolos the multitudes of Boats following them the perpetual Acclamations of the People to animate the Contenders in Emulation of each other and to shew their utmost Strength and Address All these added together do certainly make one of the most extraordinary Sights that can possibly be seen The length of this Course is from the place before-mention'd to the end of the Great Canal where in the midst of the Water there is a great Pile Erected round which they are oblig'd to pass returning with all imaginable Expedition to the Palace for here the Prizes are distributed to them who first leap into a Boat that is adorn'd and assign'd for this purpose Three Prizes are allow'd to each Regate the first and second are in Money or Plate but the third is a Pig of two or three Months old from whence comes the Revilings of the Gondoliers Terzo di Regate When the first Match is over the Peotes return to the Starting-Place to set off another