passage and cut all their throats without his knowledge It was assaulted from the West-side where upon a little rising-ground under the adjacent Mountains they raised their Battery They say that it did formerly belong to the Emperour of Germany and was built by a Queen of Hungary Since the Venetians had it they have blown up part of the Rock on the North-side to make it yet more unaccessible Other Walls it hath none but the Rocks and some few Mounds of Earth without any regularity On the top which is very narrow but long I perceived some old Foundations of Walls which with an Inscription or two that we saw after at Trau brought from hence made us believe that it was a place of Antiquity A Bow-shot from hence Northwards we entred the Grand Signiors Dominions There are two Companies of Foot and half a Troop of Horse that guard this Castle But the greatest part of these commonly quarter at Spalatro now they have Peace only a sufficient number is left here to keep Guard They have no Water but what falls from Heaven or is brought up to them with much labour from a Fountain in the Village under the Castle Another day we went to see a Convent that lieth North-West of the Town situate at the bottom of a little Bay of the Sea It is called Madonna di Paludi or our Lady of the Marshes It hath a pretty Church and pleasant Gardens I think the Fathers are of the Order of Saint Antonio of Padua Some time after we took a walk towards the West Promontory of the Haven and passed along the Coast two or three miles First by a Convent of Greek Monks whose Church is dedicated to Saint Hierome and a good way further towards the Cape or Lands-End of this little Territory is a small Fort not considerable which serveth for no other use than a Watch-Tower Returning we made towards a Rocky Mountain Northwards thorough very pleasant Groves of Olives that covered us from the heat of the Sun which would otherwise have been very troublesome from its reflection upon those Rocks in such direct rays Here we climbed up to a Hermitage cut in the Rock which had two or three pretty Cells but not very cleanly Nearer the Town I clambered up a high Rock that commands it to take a prospect of it with my Pencil where I began to wish that I had had more skill to have designed one of the most delightful places that I had ever seen This Rock amongst others yieldeth great plenty of Aster Verbasci foliis Jacea incana or Argentea of Prosper Alpinus in his Exoticks And in the Plains thereabouts are these following 1. Medica Variegata 2. Lotus Odoratus 3. Harminum Creticum 4. Leucoium Patavinum 5. Thlaspi Meclinense 6. Libanotis Ferruli facie 7. Satureia citreo odore perhaps Tragoriganum or Saturei legitima 8. Aster Montanus folio odorato forsan Aster Montanus luteus glabro Salicis folio Bauhinus 9. Linum flore luteo 10. Genista Minor Spinosa 11. Horminum flore purpureo 12. Convolvulus argenteus Minor 13. Hieratium flore incarneo 14. Pruenella Variegata 15. Miagrum 16. Drabae species exiguo folio purpurascente 17. Anchusa Matthioli flore pallido 18. Centaurium luteum non perfoliatum forsan Luteum pusillum Bauhini 19. Cichorium Verucario semine sive Chendrillae Verrucaria J. B. 20. Libanctis Foeniculi facie 21. Satureia Vulg or Savoury 22. Thlaspi Saxatile folio Casiae poetarum 23. Scabiosa flore albo 24. Caucalis Platiphylla Fab. Column Mr. Mart. forsan Nodosa Echinato semine B. P. 25. Caucalis magno flore fructu forsan Caucalis tenuifolia Montana B. P. Growing upon the Steeple here and on other hard Walls I found a Plant which I knew not how to call unless Equisetum Frutescens It is a Perennial-Plant which hath a weak long and slender Branch in colour and substance like ordinary White Jessamine and without leaves full of joynts at about an Inch distance from each other out of each of which in the fashion of ordinary Horse-tail round the joynt grow other Branches that run out a great length and are joynted like the first Stalk Out of each joynt come little yellowish scaly knobs by pairs like that on the top of Horse-tail but less In a Microscope it looketh something like a Hop between whose Scales issue forth three or four little flowers with four leaves or knobs apiece Whether this bears any fruit I know not At Troy I found another Plant differing only from this that That was Arborescens and This Frutescens The Noble Venetian that there Commanded as Count of this place was called Francesco Lauredano who had been Proveditour of Cerigo He shewed us some Pillars which he brought from thence which look like Transparent Marble but they are but Congelations of Water that petrifie in the Grotts of that Island Great part of this Town follow the Greek Religion Lib j. Fig VII TRAGVRIVM Having yet time to spare Tran. we hired a Boat and went to Trau accounted thirteen miles by Sea and eighteen or twenty by Land Westward of Spalatro We passed in a Channel between the shore and the long Scoglio or little Isle Bua to the Western-end of which it is joyned by a Stone-bridg and to the Firm-Land by a Woodden one So that it is now an Island whatever it was anciently and is surrounded by the Sea although its learned Historian Joanni Lucio proveth that it was formerly a Peninsula and that the Channel that now separateth it from the Land is done by art and not by nature against Strabo and Ptolomy to whom it was known by the name of Tragurium The situation is very pleasant having good Gardens on the Land Northwards and a handsome Bourg on the Scoglio South The Dome is well built and ancient The Chappel on the North-side is set round with Statues of which those of Saint Peter and Saint Paul are good But the chief reason that made us take this days Voyage was to see a Manuscript that hath made much noise among the Learned concerning its Antiquity to wit the fragment of Petronius Arbiter which was wanting to his Works Because for some ages this piece had not been seen it was held to be but the fruit of the brain of some ingenious person who had tried to imitate Petronins his Stile Among others Monsieur Valois was one that esteemed it fictitious But Signior Lucia and the Abbot Gradi at Rome were of the contrary opinion the first of whom had undoubtedly seen the Manuscript Trau being his native Country The Manuscript is in the hands of Dr. Statelius a man of parts and learning but sickly not a young man as Monsieur Valois stiles him with more pride than good manners for he is near Threescore years old and a grave and sober person who it may be thinks it not worth his pains to answer Monsieur Valois whose arguments can be but of little force against the credit of sight
provided with Ammunition and Artillery To the Westward of it is a large place which they call the Splanade from the middle of which beginneth a large street that runneth Westward thorough the City On the right hand in this street standeth the Cathedral Church dedicated to Saint Spiridion first Bishop of that place whose Body they are perswaded they have and there with great Veneration preserve it They attribute to him the doing a Miracle about Thirty-five years since restoring the sight to a blind man who came and prayed to him prostrating himself before his Body And of this they keep an Annual remembrance ever since which happened when we were here They make profession of the Greek Religion but are in most things Latinized except in Obedience to the Sea of Rome the Infallibility of the Pope and the Procession of the Holy Spirit They have not a Greek Bishop allowed them but there is a Latin one and a Protopappa Greek This Church is well furnished with Silver Lamps and one of Gold given by a Gentleman of Corfu who by his Will left Five thousand Cichins which amount to about Three thousand pounds sterling to buy it Here are several ingenious men and moderately learned especially Cavalier Marmero who hath writ the History of this place in Italian and hath a Collection of Medals but most of them such as concern the Antiquity of the place He derives his name from the Isle Marmero in the Propontis of which his Family were once Masters He is a person of great Worth and Honour both as to his personal Qualities and his Extraction being descended of the Family Comneno Emperours of Greece This little digression Reader I owe to this Generous Friend whose name I have reason to mention with gratitude The Protopappa or Chief Priest called Panagiotti Bulgary is but young yet Learned not only in Greek but Latin He gave us some Books of the Office used in Honour of Saint Spiridion with a relation of his Life to present to the Patriarch of Constantinople Hierassimo Machi Abbot of Palaiopolis is also a Learned man who retired hither from Candia after it was surrendred to the Turks He hath a Study of a great many M. SS amongst which are twenty never yet printed as a Commentary of Origen upon the Gospel of Saint John Saint Augustin de Trinitate Translated out of Latin into Greek one of which I bought afterwards at Athens among other Manuscripts and the Sermons of Ephrem an ancient Monk He hath printed a Dictionary Tetraglot Ancient and Vulgar Greek Latin and Italian as also a Systeme of Philosophy He hath a Nephew named Arsenio Calluti who is also Learned in Latin Greek and Divinity and is esteemed a good Preacher He Studied at Padua and is now first Pappa of the Church Panthagii or All-Saints in Palaiopoli Among his Books he shewed us a Manuscript of Saint John Damascen never yet printed as I know of and is a kind of Epitome of all his Works And another being a Commentary of Ptocho-prodromus on the Hymns of the Greek Church There are also several other Learned men there as namely Dr. Cappello young but skillful in the Civil Law and in other Gentile Learning He told us he had composed a Dictionary in Vulgar Greek Latin and Italian more ample than any yet extant The Doctors Justiniani and Lupina are likewise men of esteem there But I must not forget my good Friend Signior Spiridiani Arbeniti who hath also a little Collection of very curious Medals a great lover of Antiquity and a very civil person He received us with the greatest kindness imaginable taking the pains to shew us all things that are rare in that place Sometimes he went with us a foot and at other times when need required furnished us with his own and friends Horses and always favoured us with his good company 2. The soil of Corfu is not so fruitful as to supply the Inhabitants with Corn but they are provided from the Continent from which it is separated by a narrow Streight of four or five miles over near to Cassiopa It is nevertheless fertile in Wine and Oyl and all sorts of good Fruit. We had a present sent us of Figs Filberds and Currant-grapes then scarce ripe the Figs being a large green kind they call Fracassans having in the middle a round lump of Jelly of the bigness of a Nutmeg very delicious and refreshing in the heats of Summer Here are also abundance of Oranges and Limon-Trees I found several curious Plants in this Island among others these 1. Thymus Capitatus a very rare Plant and scarce ever seen in our Parts I have furnished our Gardens with its seed but it did not come up I judg'd it to have been Savoury until I informed my self better because in smell it resembles that rather than ordinary Thyme But is undoubtedly that which Dioscorides hath deseribed under that name of Thymus 2. Lysimachia Hysopi folio 3. Scabiosa flore nigrescente caule altissimo forsan Peregrina B. 4. Cyperus Gramineus Millearius 5. Malva trimestris 6. Scammonea 7. Polium Creticum 8. Acarna flore patulo rubente 9. Stoechas odorata 10. Centaurium majus album 11. Centaurium rubens Spicatum 12. Centaurium ramosum rubens 13. Centaurium ramosum album 14. Origanum Heraclioticum 15. Vitex flore caeruleo albo 16. Consolida regalis foetida 17. Glichyriza 18. Pulegii species erecto caule Latifolio incano vel hirsuto I. He carried us one day to see the Ruins of Paloeopoli the ancient Metropolis of the Island It stood on a Promontory to the South of the present City separated from it by a little Bay of about a mile or two over The abundance of Ruins and Foundations which are to be seen there do sufficiently demonstrate it to have been so The ground it covered is almost an Island and therefore anciently called Chersopolis It had on the South-West a good large Port for Vessels of those days but now has hardly water enough for small Shallops The mouth is narrow and was secured by a Chain the place to which it was fastened being yet to be seen There has been formerly an Aqueduct to bring fresh water to it from a Spring which we saw by a Church towards the Sea-side from whence the Water was conveyed by a Channel made thorough the Rock in Earthen-Gutters of about a yard long and an inch thick apiece curiously joyned to one another whereof great quantities are found thereabouts Besides abundance of Foundations of Temples Arches Pillars and Marble Inscriptions have been dug up here and employed to build the new Fortifications of the present City Signior Marmero in his History hath given a Plane of the old City which is now covered all over with Olive-trees and here and there an old Church standing among them the two chief that still remain are Panagia of which Pappa Ulachi is Abbot and Pantagi whereof Pappa Canuti is Rector The Portal of the first
Protection the Fourth General Council was assembled and held at Chalcedon wherein the Heresies of Eutyches and Dioscorus were condemned and the Verity of the Divine and Humane Nature of Christ without Confusion of Substance was asserted This Pillar is now standing in the Court of a private House joyning to the Bath of Ibrahim Basha near the Odas of the Janizaries which is about Mid-way between the Hippodrome and Adrianople Gate not far from the great Street When we were in this part of the Town THE JANIZARIES QUARTERS we went to see the Quarters of the Janizaries which are two great Buildings near together without any great Beauty or Ornament but capable of receiving of a great number of Men where all that Order ought to inhabit together and live Batchellors But now they leave off the strictness of that Discipline great part of them having only their Names enrolled in their Books and receive the Grand Signior's Pay but Marry follow Trades and reside in their own Houses up and down the Town They are two oblong Courts with a small Mosque or Chappel in the middle of them where those that reside there daily do their Devotions Instead of Inns in Constantinople KANS. and indeed all over Turkey they have publick Buildings they call Karavan Serais or Kans erected in convenient Parts of the City for the Markets and Traffick of different Commodities These are for all Men of what Quality Condition Country or Religion soever and there the Poorest have room to lodge in and the Richest have no more As to their Beds and Entertainment they must bring and provide them themselves or lodge on the Floor or at most on a Mat which in some Kans the Kan-keeper is obliged to provide They are of two sorts the old Fashion ones are but like a great Barn without any Partitions or Distinctions of Rooms or Lodgings They have only round the Wall a Bank raised about a Foot and half high from the Ground kept from falling down by a Wall of the same height paved on the Top and about seven or eight Foot broad At four or five Yards distance round the Wall are placed small Chimneys Between which they lay their Beds tying their Horses and giving them Meat at their Feet But the other Kans of later Building and in great Cities are more stately they are usually built in the Form of a Quadrangle with Two and sometimes Three Stories one above the other covered with so many Leaded Cuppaloes as it is divided into Appartments of about ten Foot square where each Company keep their Concerns private to themselves with as great Convenience as their manner of Life will permit And about them there are commonly Attendance who for a small Vale will provide you such things as you have Occasion for So many Stories as they are high so many Galleries are built one above another round the Kan into which these little Chambers open These Kans look very stately without and are not ungrateful to the Sight within They are usually built of Stone having a large Gate to enter into them and in the middle of the Area is built a small Mosque or Chappel to do their Devotion in supply'd with Water both for Religious and Necessary Uses In my Opinion they might be accommodated to the Use of our Christian Countries For the generality of Inns Taverns and Ale-houses are grown such Places of all manner of Debaucheries that I am sure they are become the Shame of our Religion if not of the Policies of most Christian Countries For they not only harbour Prophaneness Luxury and Debauchery but are the Receptacles of idle and slothful Persons and indeed of Out-lanes Thieves and Robbers Their Keepers extorting for their Entertainment Rates without Reason or Modesty and in a word are the Destruction of the Souls Bodies and Estates of many Thousands not only of Poor but Rich also and when all this is done they oftner die Beggars than Rich Men themselves Whereas if such Places as these were erected in convenient Places of the Roads in Cities and in Market-Towns and put into the Hands of honest poor Men to serve Strangers Travellers and Tradesmen Poor Men might do their Business with greater Expedition and less Charge carry home their Gains to their Wives and Children and not spend them before they return from Market Here Rich Men might have provided for the necessary Conveniences of their Journeys without Extravagances have Opportunity to be Charitable and by their Examples of Devotion and Christian Behaviour give Glory to God their Creatour and mighty Redeemer especially if they had Chappels and Chaplains with a convenient Stipend annexed to them The Exchange which they call the Bazar or Bezestan BAZAR is also a Beautiful Building roofed with Cuppalo's covered with Lead sustained by many Arches and Pillars within and is situate toward the Western part of the City The chief Trade in it consisting in Fur-Gowns Vests fine Saddles and Bridles Semiters and other Armour We soon wished our selves out of it it was so crouded with Brokers that sold old Cloaths we apprehended were of those who dyed of the Plague The Publick Bagnios or Baths BAGNIOS are none of the smallest Ornaments of this City These are usually placed near their Mosques because they use them in cleansing themselves according to their Superstition as well as for the Health of their Bodies being their chief Remedy in all their Diseases as really they are the best Physick of their Country We went to see only one of these near the Mosque of the Sultan's Mother because the Plague was so much in the City and these much frequented by the Infected They have a Room without with a Sopha round it to undress themselves and a large square Room beyond that covered with a Cuppalo thorough which the Light is let by Bell-glasses and about it are many little Appartments covered with small Cuppalo's much resembling that built in London only they have usually a great Bason in the Middle filled with hot Water into which they go to bathe themselves We crossed the Water one day to see the Antient Aqueduct OLD AQUEDUCT that joyns the two Hills together on which the Mosques of Suleman and Bajazet stand of which we had a fair Prospect from Gallata It is built strong and high with large Arches one above the other in the deepest part of the Valley but is now dis-joyned from the Eastern Hill and of no present Use The Water being now conveyed about the City by Pipes under Ground But the Aqueducts that bring the Water to the City are very Magnificent of which more hereafter We took a Barge another day and went to see the Seven Towers SEVEN TOWERS as they call a Castle situate in that Angle of the City nearest the Propontis because it bath so many eminent Spired Towers In our way we put a Shore on the Seraglio point where towards the Bosphorus is a Plat-form planted with a
Pompey's Pillar For the North-wind reigns much in that Sea and when it bloweth there is no passing against it and the Stream We took a good strong Boat with six Oars and left on each hand as we were turning the point of Gallata many Villages whose Situations are very pleasant with Rocks Hills and Promontories covered with Chesnuts Olives and Cypress Trees besides many of the Basha's and other great Mens Seraglio's or Houses of Pleasure I never saw more beautiful nor greater Variety of Prospects where the Motion of the Boat each moment changeth the Scene On the Thracian Shore from gallata are these viz. Tophana Fondukli Bechikroash ORtaqui Corout Schesme Arnaudqui Bubelbakchisi Eski-hissar or Old Castle Bartoliman Stegna Jegniqui Therania Boindore Sariier Fanari where is a Light-House just within the Mouth of the Sea on the right hand and on the Shore of Natolia beginning from Scutari are Cousch-couiouk Stauros Chenguetqui Conla bakchisi Candel-bakchesi Eski-hissar or Old Castle of Natolia both which defend these Streights from Incursions from the Euxin or Black\Sea Guiosqui Chiboucli Inguirliqui Oncliar Skelosi Beicos Salicevroun Joro in old time Fanum because probably it was a Light-House in those times a little without the Entrance on the left hand is the Rock whereon standeth the Pillar It is of the Corinthian Order upon a Basis and both of white Marble upon which is an Inscription that sheweth it to have been dedicated to Augustus But it is imperfect and so worn with standing bleak to the Winds that to make any more of it is past the Skill of the Antiquaries some calling the last word PONTO and some FRONTO The other Lines are imperfect likewise For at the beginning is a part of a Letter that may be taken for either a C or an O. If the first it must be C. CAESARI AVGVSTO But otherwise only the end of a word as by the E in the next line seemeth very probable And Mr. Sands maketh it it to be DIVO as probably it was So that the first line may be DIVO CAESARI AVGVSTO As to the next Line I would conclude with Mr. Sands That it is L. CLANNIDIVS If I could have found any such Name among the Roman Families But I find only Annidius And besides my own Monsieur Spon's and Mr. Smith's Observation make the first letter an E and must therefore be the last letter in a word as in many Inscriptions I have seen E written for ET and then I would put a point between C L. and Annidius and then it would be for Clandius Annidius For C L. is put for Clandius and not CLAV except there is a Praenomen before it The last line is as much travers't as any The first two letters that Mr. Smith makes L E. are undoubtedly L. F. Luci Filius as it is in Mr. Sands Monsieur Spon's and my own Observation took upon the Place As to the rest there is room enough for every one to have his Fancy mr Sands makes it CLAPONTO which Mr. Smith interpreteth CLASSIS I PONTO and so maketh it the Payment of a Vow of some that had safely conducted their Navy through this dangerous Sea Monsieur Spon makes it CLA. FRONTO But what it can so signify I cannot tell It is true RONTO is plainly to be read but the next Letter is very much defaced but I fansied it to be another R whcih I marked down in my Book with points the first long stroke is entire and plain but for the rest of it one hath much adoe to make some worn-out Marks hang together As to the A the L and the C ordine retrogrado following they are plainly to be read So that if I were to be its Restitutor I would write it DIVO CAESARI AVGVSTO E CL. ANNIDIUS L. F. CL. ARRONTO I find the Family Arruntius in Gruterus in many Inscriptions and O for V might be an easie mistake of the Graver in so remote a Country if not of the Person himself And we know that Letters were not every ones Talent in those days And to conclude I believe the Basis upon which this Inscription is was not made for that Pillar because they bear no proportion one with another It has been in my opinion a round Altar being carved about with Wreaths of abundance sustained by Bull's-heads The white Pillar which I judge about ten foot high above it might have been erected upon it to serve for a Sea-mark by day as the Lanthorn at Fanari doth by night Indeed I should think it any thing rather than a Pillar erected to Pompey The Rock on whch it stands is one of the Cyaneae or Symplegades of the Antients fansied to float because sometimes seen together as they thought seeing them from several Stations But some of them are placed on the one side of the Entrance of the Bosphorus and some on the other Mr. Smith counted four on the European side But the North-wind beginning to rise we were forced to ruturn soon after the viewing of the Pillar In our return about six Miles from the Pillar we stopped to see a Greek Church upon the highest of the Hills on the Thracian Shore called Mavronides It is a place of very great Devotion among the Greekes and payeth no Taxes to the Grand Signior only a few Cherries for his own eating The reason of which they told us was this The Grand Signior being a hunting at Belgrade and eagerly pursuing his Game this way lost his Attendants and came to this place where being weary hot and dry he alighted to repose and refresh himself and demanding Water of the poor Caloyers who knew him one of them readily brought him some Bread and Water and fresh-gathered Cherries which are there excellent good at which he seemed very well pleased and told him That if he would change his Religion he would promote him to great Honour But the poor yet faithful Christian resolving not to part with his Faith would he have given him his Empire and knowing he could give that proud Tyrant no Answer that would please him and secure his Conscience void of offence on that Subject made no Answer at all but fixed his Eyes upon the ground notwithstanding all he could say to him At which he greatly wondering and admiring his Constancy told him That for this Service that Place should pay no Caratch only some Cherries yearly to the Seraglio for his own eating A little before we arrived at Gallata I took notice of a dangerous Rock in the Chanel lying piked above Water not more than four or five Foot which must needs be very dangerous for those Vessels that pass that way by night One day we cross'd over the Bosphorus to see Scutari and in the Passage put a shore on the Maiden Tower as they call a little Sconce fortified with a few pieces of great Guns built upon a Rock about the middle of the Chanel but rather nearer the Shore of Natolia All that it is
but that they leave fruitful Fields round about between the Bay and them well planted with Olive-yards Vine-yards and Corn-fields among them and from the Town to Mount Sipylus is a Valley of four or more Miles in length and near a Mile broad in some places which with the Gardens about the Town and the Town it self drink up two pretty Streams of good Water one rising North-ward from the Mountain Sipylus and the other Southward from Mount Mimas which joyn together North-East of the Town and what it spareth which is but little the Sea receiveth at the North-West end of the Town That which cometh North-wards from Mount Sipylus is a considerable Stream driveth seven Mills and hath abundance of Fish in it The other coming from Mount Mimas is the greatest part brought to the Town in Aqueducts two of which are well built with Stone-Arches crossing the Valley or deep Foss which it self hath dug between two Hills whereof the Northern-most is where Old Smyrna stood now only a Castle The rest of the Water is divided amongst the Gardens Smyrna is a place of great Antiquity and is reputed to have had the Amazon Smyrna for its Foundress They therefore stamped their Money with the Figure of her Head I got several pieces of them very rare and saw many more in the Cabinet of an ingenious Merchant there Mr Faulkener who designs his Collection for the Vniversity of Oxford One small one hath her Head crowned with Towers and her two-edged Hatchet on her Shoulder almost worn out with Age and about it are these Letters ΣΜΥΡÎΑ Med. 32 33. on the other side the Prow of a Ship and these ΣΜΥΡÎΑΙΩΠMed. 38. From another I saw of the Empress Tranquillina is to be seen her whole Habit which is thus Her Head is crowned with a Tower as before her two-edged Axe upon her Shoulder holding a Temple in her right hand perhaps referring to some Temple Tranquillina had built in a short Vest let down to her Knees and Buskins half way her Legs There is something also the holdeth in her left hand besides her Axe which perhaps is her Bow In another she is dressed in the Habit of Hercules Of the antient Situation and Beauty of this place Strabo giveth the best and shortest Account Thence saith he describing it North-ward from Ephesus is another Bay in which is Old Smyrna twenty Stadia or two Miles and a half from the New When the Lydians had destroyed Smyrna the Country thereabout was only inhabited by Villages for Four hundred Years together After which Antigonus restored it and after him Lysimachus At this day it is of all the Asian Cities most beautiful Part of it is built upon the Mountain but the greater part on the Plain to the Haven unto the Temple of the Mother of the Gods and to the Gymnasium The Streets are most excellently and as much as possible reduded into right Angles all paved with Stone It hath great and square Porticoes both in the higher and lower parts of the City There is a Library and the Homerion which is a square Portico with a Temple containing his Statue For the Smyrnoites are very zealous for the Nativity of Homer amongst them and have a brass piece of Money called by his Name Homerion The River Meles runneth by the Walls There is a Haven on the other side of the City which may be shut up at pleasure Thus far Strabo The Old Smyrna that was in his time in all probability was on a Hill South of this that is now and West of the Castle-hill For there are some Steps of Heaps of Stones laid in some order as if a Wall had been there His New Smyrna but the Old one of our times without doubt took up all the Hill the Old Castle standeth on and that adjoyning to it down to a point running into the Bay Southwards and of the Plain much more North-East than the New Smyrna of our times But North I believe not more if so much For turning into Franck-Street is a Wall which seemeth to be part of the antient Walls of the City although the Mouth of the River Meles is just without the present Buildings which is not far and might easily be turned thither if nearer to the Walls formerly Along this Wall from the Sea you come to the Foundations of a great Building of hewed Stone they were then demolishing which might have been the Sibyl's Temple the great Mother of the Gods As to the Homerion it hath been thought that which they call the Temple of Janus perhaps from its Similitude to that at Rome because it is not far off from the River supposed to be the River Meles It is a four square Stone-building about three Yards square with two doors opposite to each other one North and the other South and a large Niche within against the East-Wall where his Image was supposed to stand But my Comrade receiv'd Letters since that digging by it hath been found a Statue with a double Visage which confirms the opinion Med. 39 40 42. That it was the Temple of Janus Of the Brass Money called by Homer's Name I did light upon one-piece not long since with his Head and Name on one side and the Figure and Name of the River Meles on the other in Greek Characters I saw another among Mr Faulkeners a Coturniate Medalion with his Head and Shoulders and a Branch before him having his Name about it On the Reverse is a Man leading a Horse Homer's Name in Mr Faulkener's begins with Ω but in mine with Ο. Where the Gymnasium was and the many noble Porticoes which adorned this Place is now past conjecturing But the Port that did shut and open at pleasure might be that little square place by the Fort which now serves to harbour the Gallies and other small Boats But other Remains of Antiquity not mentioned by Strabo although none of the least are the Theater and Cirque The Theater is on the Brow of the Hill North of the Castle built of white Marble but now is going to be destroyed to build the new Kan and Bazar hard by the Fort below which they are now about and in doing whereof there hath been lately found in the Foundation a Pot of Medals all of the Emperour Gadlienus his Family and the other Tyrants that reigned in his time which make me believe he built it or at least that it was done in his days although my Comrade seemeth to think it was the Emperour Claudius because he found his Name on a piece of a Pedestal in the Scene of it But I think without reason For that could be no part of the Theater since in the Foundation of antient Buildings it is usual to find the Coyn of the Founders or the contemporary Emperours The Cirque is dug deep in the Hill that is West of the Castle about Two hundred and fifty paces long and about Forty five broad This was used in Courses
North-ward after having spoken of Halicarnassus the Island Coos and some other Places along the Shore Jassus followeth saith he situate in an Island over against the Continent They have a Harbour and seek their Living out of the Sea For the Place aboundeth with Fish and their Land is barren Whether now it abounds with Fish or no is uncertain there being no People to catch them But of them of old time Strabo telleth this pretty Story A Musician one day shewing his Skill publickly was for a while attended to by the whole Town to wit until the Signal was given for the time of selling Fish which was no sooner heard but they all left him except one Man that was somewhat deaf who not hearing the Signal staid till all was ended Then the Musician coming to him with great Thanks complements him That he was so great a Favourer of his Art that he alone would stay to hear him when all the rest immediately left him at the first sound of the Bell. How answered the Deaf Man hath it then rung Yes said the Musician Adieu to you then replied he hasting away without further Complement The Land about it by their Draught of it seems to be rocky and barren Ground There are yet the Remains of an Aqueduct that brought them Water from the North-side of the Bay and towards the Cape are several curious Marble Tombs on one of which is an Inscription shewing it to be the Burying Place of Lysimachus not him of the time of Alexander the Great but some other of the times of the Roman Emperours who built that Monument to him and his Children Issue and Kinsman Leon called Jason the Milesian but by nature of Jasus And if any other durst be so bold to bury there he should pay Fifteen hundred Denaria to the Emperours Custom-house and One to that Place ΑΓΑΘΗΣ ΜΕΤΑΒΟΛΗΣ ΤΟΥΤΟ ΤΟ ÎœÎΗΜΕΙΟΠΛΥΣΙΜΑΧΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΤΕ ΤΡΑΚΙΣ ΣΤΟΙΒΑΣ ΤΟΥΤΟΥ ΜΕΘΕΞΟΥΣΙΜΟΥ ΤΑ ΤΕΚÎΑ ΛΥΣΙΜΑΧΟΣ ΚΑΙ ΚΟΥΑΡΤΑ ΚΑΙ ΤΑ ΕΞ ΑΥΤΩΠΓΕÎÎΗΘΕΣΑΜΕÎΑ ΤΕΚÎΑ ΩΣΤΕ ΚΑΙ ΓΟÎΙΑΣ ΚΑΙ Ο ΓΑΜΒΡΟΣ ΜΟΥ ΛΕΩΠΑΡΤΕΜΕΙΣ ΙΟΥ Ο ΕΠΙΚΑΛΟΥΜΕΠΟΣ ΙΑΣΩΠΟ .... ÎΕΙΜΕΠΜΕΙ ΛΗΣΙΟΣ ΦΥΣΕΙΔΕ ΙΑΣΕΥΣ ΤΟΥΤΟ ΔΕ ΕΤΕΡΟΣ ΟΥΔ ΕΙΣ ΜΕΘΕΞ ..... ΤΕΣ ΣΥÎΓΟÎΕΥΣ ΜΟΥ ΟΥΤΕ ΕΞΩΤΙ ΚΟΣ ΤΙΣ ΕΙ ΜΗ ΤΙ ΕΤΕΡΩ ΤΕΘΕΣΟΜΑΙ ΕΓΩ Îœ ... ΤΟΣΗ ΤΑ ΤΕΚÎΑ ΜΟΥ Η Ο ΓΑΜΒΡΟΣ Ο ΠΡΟΓΕΓΡΑΜΕΠΟΣ ΚΑΙ ΣΥÎΧΩΡΗΣ ... Σ. ΥΙÎΙ ΤΗΘΗΠΑΙ Ο ΔΕ ΠΑΡΑ ΤΑΥΤΑ ΤΟΛΜΗΣΑΣ ΒΙΑΣΑΜΕÎΟΣ ΔΩΣΕΙ ΕΙΣ ΜΕΤΟΠΚΑΙΣΑΡΟΣ ΦΙΣΚΟΠΔΗÎΑΡΙΑ ΧΕΙΛΙΑ ΠΕÎΤΑΚΟΣΙΑ ΕΙΣ ΔΕ ΤΗΠΓΙΙΑ ΑΥΤΟΣ ΔΕ ΕÎΟΧΟΣ The Building which the Doctor took for the Sepulcher of Mausolus made him also take this Place for Halicarnassus the Seat of the antient Kings of Caria But his Mistake is evident from Strabo and Pliny who place Halicarnassus much further South over against the Island Coos called by the Western part of the World Stanchio or Stinco or Stingo from an Errour I have before corrected in other Places and which takes its rise from hearing the Greeks at this day say 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 for 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 from Coos Halicarnassus was separated only by a streight of fifteen Miles over if Pliny may be credited And as for Strabo he maketh Termerium Promontory next North to Halicarnassus to be but forty Stadia that is about five Miles distant from Coos So that by the Judgment both of Pliny and Strabo Halicarnassus and the Askemkalesi we treat of were at too great distance to be one and the same Place Strabo concludes that account thus After Jassus is the Posidium Prom. of the Milesians This also agreeth with the Information that one Mr William Michel gave me who shewed me a large Map of the Coasts of Asia made by his own and others Observations where over against the Island Coos is drawn a large Bay and the Ruins of a Town upon each Promontory But those upon the Southern Promontory were exceeding great as he was informed by a Bey of a Galley who found them and told him That those to the South were called Okanstenches and the North-most Boundron but are both only heaps of Ruins and both uninhabited Of these the Southern-most should be Halicarnassus which was the Native Place of Herodotus the most antient Grecian Historian remaining among us as also of Dionysius sir-named from this Place Halicarnassaeus And this is all the News I learned so far South Our Travellers went no farther than Askemkalesi but returned another way more within the Continent as followeth Parting from Askemkalesi about five in the Evening they traversed a pleasant Mountain which after some hours Riding brought them into a large Plain with a fair River running in it with many turnings and windings like another Meander which passing over by a Stone-Bridge they came to certain Turkish Cottages where they staid till two in the Morning only apprehending they were among Thieves and willing to be on their way before them wherein through God's Mercy they had their desire fulfill'd arriving at a more secure Place called Melasso about seven the same Morning In this Place they saw several remarkable Pieces of Antiquity which together with the present Name not much corrupted from the antient MELASSO olim MYLASA assureth That this Place was formerly called Mylasa and not Miletum as our Modern Geographers think being deceiv'd by the likeness of the Name and not knowing the Situation The first Antiquity was a fair Temple of Marble with an Inscription on the Front shewing it was built in Honour of Augustus Caesar and to the Goodess of Rome Lib III. Fig X. It had Twenty two Pillars about it but the Front only is now standing Lib III. Fig XII The Pilar of Menander But that which further proveth our Assertion is That on the Wall of the Town yet remains a Pillar which was erected by the People of the Town to the Honour of Menander Grand-Son of Euthydemus of whom Strabo saith That he was formerly one of the Principal Citizens of Mylassa and to the Riches he had received from his Ancestors he added such Eloquence that he was held in high esteem not only in his own Country but all over Asia In whose time also one Hybreas sprung up whose Father gained his Living by fetching Wood to the Town on a Mule which was all the Portion he left to his Son Hybreas who afterward likewise maintained himself thereby until after some time Fortune favouring him he went and studied a while at Antioch under Diotrephes a great Orator there After which he returned and began to frequent the Courts of Justice where quickly he got himself such a Reputation that even while Euthydemus was yet living he was greatly admired and soon after his Death rendred himself Master of the City But Euthydemus whilst he lived was both powerful and useful to the City and although his way of handling the Town seemed something Tyrannical yet he balanced that with the Benefits he did them Which gave Hybreas one day occasion at the end of his Speech to give him a bold
Clay from the Land which they first lay about half a foot thick upon the bottom beginning round from the Cylinder to the Walls and then they begin to raise it a foot and half or thereabouts Then fill the whole Cistern with the best clear Sand they can find which they fetch from Lido near the City and as they fill it with Sand up higher and higher so they raise the Clay about the Walls until they come unto the top After which they put fresh water all over the Sand partly to make it settle and therefore as it sinks they fill it up with more Sand until it hath its due proportion and partly to take away all saltness from the Sand which is taken from the Sea-side And therefore they still draw it out of the Well as fast as it sinks into it until they find no more saltness in it After which they cover it with an Arch leaving three or four holes or more of a foot or thereabouts Diameter which they fill with spunges and that is to hinder all dirt that comes with the rain-water from entring into the Cistern These holes they cover with a small Iron Grate or a Stone pierced and bored thorough in several places contriving the upper pavement over the Arch in such sort that all the water that falls near the place runs directly into the Cistern This I learned of Signior Bartholomeo Morelli Brother to a great and rich Banker of Venice who while I was at Venice made one about his house for his convenience which I saw as I have related This may be very useful to many Sea-Towns which want good fresh water The Count or Governour of this place is Signior Antonio Soderino of a Noble Venetian Family who besides his Eminent Quality is a Person no less obliging than ingenious very curious in Medals of which the number he hath is far less considerable than the rarity and neatness of the pieces He hath travelled in all Parts of the Levant where he collected the greatest part of them Some of which indeed are so curious as not only exceeded our expectation but gave us hopes that in our Travels into those Parts we might also find some worth the pains of collecting We had a Letter of recommendation to him to have the favour of seeing his Cabinet upon which he received us with a great deal of obligingness and shewed us among many curious pieces two Otho 's of Brass one Greek the other Latin which in Monsieur Spon's judgment were undoubtedly ancient and an Antoninus Pius the Reverse of which was Orpheus playing on his Harp with all sorts of Animals about him as charmed by his Musick Monsieur Spon speaks of Five Otho's but I observed but Two of them in my Journal which are those he hath caused to be engraven and are these I give you I should abuse the Obligation we received of him to pass it by without mentioning his Courtesie which was so extraordinary After he had taken a great deal of pains in shewing us his Cabinet he with as great kindness obliged us to sup with him where he gave us a noble Treat and in the mean time unknown to us sent for all our baggage from our lodging where we should have had but bad accommodation the small humber of strangers that pass that way giving but little encouragement to Inns and obliged us to make use of a handsome Apartment he assigned for us in his Palace At which we were much surprized when we were to take our leaves of him that night But his civility stop'd not here for he engaged us to make his Palace our Inn during our stay in that place which was five days longer July the first Zara Vechia the Wind being fair and a brisk gale we soon passed by Zara Vechia or Old Zara which is about Eighteen miles from the other We sailed between the Land and several little Islands which make a Channel like to a River deep enough for Gallies but not for Ships of any burthen The Inhabitants on both sides make the best they can of a shallow and rocky soil The surface of the Earth as I was informed is covered with a scaly rock which being pared off and laid in heaps there appears a most fruitful soil which they plant with Olives and Vines which bear good Muskadel-Wines and in great plenty In three hours time we came to Mortaro Mortaro Thirty miles from Zara. This Port is made between two Islands lying together with high rocky Mountains round about It is deep enough for great Ships and hath a little Town of about 50 or 60 houses water'd with a Spring of good water Here on the Rocks I found 1. A Plant with leaves like Althea for shape but of a deep green and smooth sending up a stalk above a yard and a half high full of Milk The Flower I saw not it not being yet blown The Bailo's Doctor would perswade me that it was Tithymalus Asperagoides but I rather think it * Pinax Bauhini lib. 3. sect 1. Campanula major lactescens lobeli 2. A little Thlaspi Angustifol flore purpureo 3. Eryngium Luteum Monspeliense 4. Paronychia altera Mathioli 5. Saxifraga Viridis Dioscoridis 6. Centaureum luteum non perfoliatum The next day we parted hence Sabenigo and passed in sight of Sabenigo the strongest City of Dalmatia belonging to the State of Venice Its Inhabitants are esteemed seven or eight thousand Souls and we could discern from the Gally by the help of a Perspective-glass four Forts Of which we were informed one near the Harbour is called Saint Nicholas The other is the Works that mantle the Town The other two are upon too little Rocks near the Town called the Baron and Saint Andrew The Dome is much praised by the Venetians being all of Marble and the Architecture very good There is a little Island just against the Town called the Isola D'oro the golden Island from its pleasantness From Zara it is counted Fifty miles to this place Hence we parted and saw Trau more Eastwards We passed by several Scoglio's Southward of us as Saint Andrè Buza L'Issa Girone and Salta which lie South of Spalato where we arrived the second of July Lib. j Fig V. Montes Septentrio SPALATO Spalato or as some call it Spalatro Spalato seemeth to be a corruption of the word Palatium For the Town that now is here was the Palace of the Emperour Dioclesian It s situation is very remarkable the Land whereon it stands being a Peninsula joyned to the Firm Land of Dalmatia by an Isthmus of about a mile over where it is Walled in by a prodigious precipice of Mountains ranged along those Coasts thorough which it hath only one entrance into the Firm Land by a very narrow passage which is defended by a Fort built upon a Rock just in the entrance about eight miles Northward from the City The Sea thus encompassing it makes a very delightful prospect from
is called Prevenza and is the place of the ancient Nicopolis built by Augustus in memory of his Victory over Mark-Antony In Arta are reckoned seven or eight thousand Inhabitants whereof the number of the Greeks exceedeth that of the Turks Signior Manno Mannea a rich Merchant of that place told me that the Cathedral Church of this place called Evangelistra that is the Annunciation is a great Building that hath as many doors and windows as there are days in the year and that it is sustained by above Two hundred Marble Pillars He added that an Inscription over the door sheweth that it was built by Duke Michael Comneno This Town and the Country round about Traffick in Tobacco Botargo and Furrs with which they drive a great Trade The Archbishop of Arta made his Residence in times past at Lepanto which he now hath left because there are but few Christians there He had anciently eight Suffragans But the Emperour John Palaeologus divided his Province into two Archbishopricks to raise that of Janina The Cities that are left to Arta are 1. Ragous a little Town ten miles from Prevenza 2. Ventza a Town and Castle on the other side of the Gulph 3. Astos an inland Town two days Journey from Arta and 4. Acheloou which taketh his name from the River Acheloous The Bishop of this place maketh his Residence at Angelo-Castro and hath also Zapandi Massa-longi and Anatolico in his Diocess Janina is a Town bigger than Arta peopled by rich Greek Merchants It s Archbishop has under him four Bishopricks 1. Argiro-Castro no great Town 2. Delbeno which is but a Village 3. Butrinto under which are the Villages of the Mountain Chimaera 4. Glykeon so called from a River called Glyki and this last Diocess is extended from Paramythia tâ— Pourga a Fortress belonging to the Venetians upon the Sea-Coaâ—â— And thus far Monsieur Spon But it will not be amiss perhaps to let you know what these Boats called Monoxyla are so often made mention of They are Boats made of the Body of a Tree all of one piece as the name implyeth about fifteen or twenty foot long two foot wide and a foot and half deep or thereabouts They were not unknown to the Ancients Hesychius saith that the Cyprians called them 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 perhaps because they were made of Oak called in Greek 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Heliodorus also mentions Monoxyla in his History They sit in the bottom of them and Row with two Padlers or little Oars Monsieur Spon saith he saw two Horses pass in them over the narrowest part of the Streight between the Land and Saint Mauro which otherwise I could not have thought them capable of I saw them used at Mesolongia and Nathaligo to carry Currans over the Flatts on board Ships lying in the road before those places But it s now time to pursue our Voyage to Zant where we arrived the Twenty-fourth of July Old and the fourth of August New Stile ZACYNTHUS N. ZANTE L. i. Fig XI Zant is but a little Island I believe not above Thirty miles about Zant. But to make amends is one of the most fruitful and pleasant places I ever saw It lieth in 36 degrees 30 minutes of Northern Latitude South from Cephalonia about ten miles and more off the Morea near thirty miles East and hath the Gulph of Lepanto N. E. In old time it was called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Zacynthos as I have seen on several Medals especially on one which I saw in Sir Clement Harbie's hands Med. 14. the Consul of this place who gave me leave to design it It hath on the one side the head of some Deity and on the Reverse Apollo's Tripos under a radiant Sun with these Letters about it ΖΛΚΥÎΘΙΩΠThe Greeks still call it Zacynthos the Italians Zanté and we Zant. It hath been called by Boterus the Golden Island which it well deserves because of the fruitfulness and pleasantness of its foil and abode But it now more truly merits that name from the Venetians who draw so much Gold by the Curran-Trade from hence and Cephalonia as beareth the ordinary charge of their Armada at Sea It is governed by a Venetian Proveditor and hath one good Port though it lieth a little bleak to the North-East Wind and another on the South-side but is dangerous to those that are strangers to it Between these two Ports runneth a long Promontory Eastwards on which is a high Mountain called Madonna di Scoppo from a Church there where there is a Picture that they perswade themselves works Miracles The Town is stretched along the shore and is very populous as is also the whole Island wherein beside the City are reckoned fifty Towns and Villages The Town is backt towards the West with a Fort situated upon a steep hill which casteth such a reflexion of the Sun upon it as maketh it extreme hot in Summer and almost an English Summer in the coldest Winter This Hill abounds with many Springs of excellent good fresh Water which although they rise some not above twenty paces from the Sea and others nothing near so much yet they are so high above the surface of the water as may confute the vulgar error that would have all Fountains to take their Original from the Sea For here from high Mountains they powre themselves into it as from Monte di Madonna di Scoppo the Fountain Grundinero doth But if they understand that the Sun first draweth the water out of the Sea into Clouds and lets it drop down again in Rain or Snow upon the Hills from whence it collects it self into subterraneous Channels and so breaks out again in Springs I will be of their opinion But not that it passeth from the Sea in subterraneous Channels to the Fountain and thence back again from whence it came above ground Unless they first prove that in Water the contrary Qualities of Gravity and Levity cohabit together This is plain also if we consider that Springs are never far from some Hill or Mountain And that in many dry Summers where the Hills are not high and large they abate in their Water and are often dried quite up which could never be if they came immediately from the Sea For that is never wasted at least sensibly We may therefore wonder and adore the Wisdom of the great Creator of All things that hath laid the Earth in heaps and hath lifted up the Rocky Mountains to the Heavens which we ignorantly call Barren and the Fable Mocks for only bringing forth of Mice when they like good though aged Fathers furnish their children the Valleys with such plentiful supplies of streams as render them so abundantly fruitful and their Fields to stand so thick with corn and every thing else that is good and beautiful that they seem really to laugh and sing The Town is well built of Free-stone but the Buildings not very high by reason of the frequent Earth-quakes that
they are forced to dig them out with piked Irons and this they call Stirring When they barrel them up to send into these Parts a man getteth into the Fat with bare legs and feet and as they are brought and powred in he still keeps a stamping and treading of them down to make them lye close together They are worth here about Twelve Dollers the Thousand or little more or less and pay as much to the State of Venice for Custom The Island beareth enough of them yearly to charge five or six Vessels Cephalonia three or four and Nathaligo Mesalongia and Patras one of which some few are brought down from the Gulph of Lepanto To maintain this Trade the English have a little Factory here consisting of a Consul and five or six Merchants The Dutch have a Consul and one or two Merchants and the French have a Consul and Merchant in the same person The English have the chief Trade here and good reason they should for I believe they eat six times as much of their fruit as both France and Holland do The Zantiots have not long known what we do with them but have been perswaded that we use them only to Dye Cloth with and are yet strangers to the luxury of Christmas Pies Plum-potage Cake and Puddings c. Amongst the English Merchants is Mr. Pendames to whom I was much obliged as for other civilities so for his courtesie in shewing me the Island and in it one of the greatest curiosities that I have seen any where It is the Pitch or Tarr-Fountains of Zant. They are not above seven or eight miles from the Town But we made I believe twice as far by Sea For we had to pass about from this Port a long Promontory stretched out toward the Morea and thence to return to the Port on the other side of it In that Bay are two other little Rocks or Islands one of which is called Marathronesa or the Fennel-Island from the abundance of that Plant which groweth there called in Greek 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 In it there is only a little Church with a Caloyer or two who look to a Woman they pretend is possessed with a Devil But as my companion saith it is a foolish one For it told us that he was of Joadua though it could not speak one word of Italian nor could it tell of what Country we were or whether Married or Batchelours nor indeed make any pertinent answer but speak all in Rhime but little to the purpose The Pitch-springs rise at the foot of an high Mountain at the bottom of this Gulph about a hundred paces from the Sea The Pitch issueth out of the Earth with the water in Lumps or Balls sometimes as big as an Hasel-nut sometimes as a Wall-nut and riseth not presently to the top of the Water but in a while after doth It is like other Pitch in colour but hath a strong smell as near as I could guess like Oyl of Amber It is first soft but by lying in the Sun grows hard They gather about ninety or an hundred Barrels thereof yearly of which the State hath every Tenth which they save as it rises and Barrel it up and the owners sell the rest for two Gazets the pound which is not a half-peny English When the Wind blowed West that is over the Mountain at the foot of which this Spring lieth to the East and when there are Earthquakes it Vomiteth forth this Pitch in greater abundance than at other times Whence one may conjecture that some subterraneous fire is the cause of it which feeding upon sulphureous and bituminous matter what by reason of its small Vent it cannot devour it sends forth in this black substance The manner that I have seen Pitch made confirms me in this opinion which is thus They find some bank of ground wherein they dig a hole about two yards Diameter at â—e top but very narrow at the bottom into which they put the Wood of Pines chusing the most sappy and cleaving them into small splints then place them an end one above another until the hole is full When this is done they set all on fire at the top which by the Wood burneth still downward and as it burneth the Pitch distilleth to the bottom and so by a little hole is saved as it issueth forth Thus may this great Mountain be compared to a great Pitch-pit In the Duke of Modena's Dominions not far from his Country-house of Pleasure but nearer a Village called Sassolo is a Mountain named Zebio that sometimes burneth out in a light flame at the top like that of Vesuvius and Aetna but not with any great fierceness At the top is no hole to be seen but only a place about a yard Diameter filled with a muddy water which continually boileth up in bubbles sometimes only of air sometimes of water streaked with a greasie and sutty-colour'd substance This Water is of a white muddy colour of it self like the Soil of the Mountain which is of a whitish Freestone for the most part At the foot of this Mountain are two Springs of Oyl the one of a reddish and the other of a clear colour like ordinary Oyl Of this great part sweateth out of the Rock and part issueth out with Water and is called Petrolium in Latin and Olio Disusso in Italian Both smell alike although they be not of the same colour and both of the same smell with this of Zant. The subterraneous fire is undoubtedly the reason of this and that it is clearer and thinner of substance may be by reason that it is Filtrated thorough a more condensed matter than that of Zant But this is not peculiar to hot Countries for I received lately from Scotland an account of a Well of Oyl not far from Edenburgh with a bottle of the same Oyl from my Worthy Tutor Dr. Hicks Chaplain to his Grace the Duke of Lauderdale This is of a black colour like that of Zant but is thinner the smell neither so grateful nor so strong Beside the Curran-Grapes whereof I have already spoken and which are now ripe the Island affords other Vines that yield good though very strong Wine but which bears water so well that it may be made as small as Venetian Garbo and yet better tasted and as brisk The red Wine endures the Sea very well but the Muskatels not though they are very delicious and in great plenty here They make also abundance of excellent Oyl but it is not permitted to be Exported by Foreigners no more than the Wine only what the Island can spare is sent to Venice Here are the best Mellons I dare confidently say in the World if I may compare them with what I have eaten in England France Italy and Turky They are especially of Two kinds White and Yellow The White hath its Pulp of a pale green colour and has a perfumed taste and smell as if they were seasoned with Ambergrease Their shape is not
so long or oval as ours commonly are but a short and flat round in shape of a Boul nor are the Ribs covered with such a Fret work but smooth The Yellow ones are like the White for shape and are not known from them until opened but are not esteemed quite so good The Peaches here are extraordinary good and big wâ—â—ghing from ten to fifteen or sixteen Ounces Here are also Citrons Oranges and Lemons in abundance One sort of Lemon is very extraordinary and seldom seen in England For beside their largeness and thinness of skin filled with excellent sharp juice they are without either seed or stone Here are also abundance of curious Plants The curious Plants I here took particular notice of are these 1. Genista seu Spartium a small shrub growing on the Cliffs bearing many Silver-colour'd leaves on little Twigs which are succeeded with a knot of small Golden flowers whose little cod or seed being pass'd the twigs that remain become sharp thorns 2. Convolvulus with a large purple flower and leaves like Sagittaria or Arrow-head This I found among the Pitch-Springs 3. Prunella Spinosa 4. Coris Matthioli G. 544. 5. Gossipium Here I first saw the Cotton Plant grow which is an Annual lant sown in Fields as we do Hemp and Flax but altogether unlike them It hath a Stalk a foot high beset with leaves like Maple divided into three sometimes four parts from among which leaves come yellow flowers like Mallows or Holly-hacks in shape set in a cup consisting of three green leaves nipped about the edges This the flower being past filleth it self up with a shell like a Nut crouded full of Cotton with two or three round seeds in it 6. Anagallis Aquatica 3tia Lob. 7. Glaux Dioscordis as hath been thought by some It is like Gramen Burgundiacum in substance and leaves and the flower also ends in branches but of a blewish purple colour which are succeeded by cods each divided into two or three round rough and flat shells joyned to each other in each of which is a seed like a Tare 8. Cistus Plantaginis folio This hath four or five leaves lying flat on the ground long hairy and sinewed like the middle kind of Plantan from which groweth a stalk of a foot high beset at several distances with smaller long leaves at the top it is divided into several branches of bright and yellow flowers with black bottoms This I found only upon Monte di Scoppo 9. Lychnis with Flowers speckled like the Strawberry-pricks 10. A small Plant like Hyssop or Savoury but thin and downy with small tender flowers on the top like Geranium not divided into leaves but a certain cup of a reddish colour full of purple veins 11. Cicerum Creticum July the Twenty-eighth after four days stay at Zant we went aboard again our former Ship called the Guerriera Costante Commanded by Captain Zoane Bronze Native of Perasto a Town in Albania He was formerly a Pirate and for his Valour well known and feared by the Turks and reverenced by the Corsairs He is esteemed one of the stoutest Soldiers the State of Venice hath in its service They tell of him that in his younger days he was at Perasto on a time when it was assaulted by a party of Two thousand Turks and they in the Town not above Fifty-nine persons yet for all that they made such vigorous resistance that they slew a great part of the Turks razed their Batteries and in conclusion made such a Valorous Excursion upon them as made them desist from their enterprize By a North-wind we put out and left the Promontory di Scoppo on the right hand but not without saluting the holy Image on the top of it for luck sake Not long after we passed the Isles Strophades called now Strovadi or Strivalli thought by the ancient Poets to be the refuge of the Harpies They are judged about Fifty miles from Zant and Thirty from the Morea very low and the biggest not above Five miles in circuit Nevertheless they report that there is such plenty of fresh water there that one cannot thrust a stick into the ground but water gusheth out in the place which makes them very fertile They also say that in the Fountains of this Isle are often found Plane-tree leaves though none grow upon the place but only in the Morea which makes them believe and not without reason that their Original is from thence and by subterraneous Channels they are brought thither Here is a Covent of about fifty or sixty Greeks in it who defend their miraculous Madonna by several Bastions planted with good Canons for fear of the Corsairs though they say the very Turks of Barbary have a respect for those Reverend Fathers and seldom put a shore here but to take in fresh water For great Ships they report it to be inaccessible except in very moderate and calm weather there being so many Flats about it and no shelter for them About Threescore miles further we doubled the Cape Sapienza anciently called on the West-side Coriph Promontorium on the East Acriti Promontorium before which lie in a row the little Islands Sapienza Carrera and Venetica well known to the Pirates of Barbary who use to skulk with their Vessels behind them attending the Barques that come out of the Gulph of Venice and others which they can master bound that way for the Levant We were not far from these Islands passing the Gulph Corone called formerly Sinus Messeniacus when a Saylor from the Main-top-Mast made Ten Sail of great Ships steering the same course as we did Upon this we fired a Gun to give notice to the Commander of our Discovery hoisting and lowring ten times our Ensign to denote the number of Sail. He immediately spared Sail and made as little way as was convenient considering a fair Nor-West Wind which we had almost a poop The like we did and with all speed prepared for an Engagement knocking down all the Cabbins and throwing Chests and Hammocks into the Hold. They loaded the Guns put out the wast-cloaths and quartered the Soldiers in their several Posts being as yet uncertain whether they were friends or enemies They suspected them to be Algerines or some other Fleet of African Pirates Some feared they were French-men in whom they had no great confidence because they had lately denied some of the French Kings Ships coming from Mesina liberty to take in Provision at Zant and therefore they knew not how it might be resented However whether Friends or Enemies they thought it not safe to trust either whereby they might be surprized It was three hours before they came up to us although they made all the Sail they could which made us believe that they were either Dutch or English Merchant-men feeing they were so flow and not Pirates or Men of VVar who use to be better Sailers But at length when they came nearer we discerned them to be Hollanders by their Ensigns which were striped of
Blew VVhite and Red. Thus all our great preparations for fight ended in amicable salutes to each other expressed by sound of Trumpets Drums and Cannon Our Admiral carried the Banner of Saint Mark upon his Main-Top-Mast as Capitan Denavi which is the highest Charge at Sea under this State And therefore it fell to the Hollanders share to come by our Lee and salute first Their Admiral was young De Ruiter who only as Vice-Admiral of that Squadron carried his Flag on the Top-Mast head His Ship passed first and all the rest in order after him saluting which we still answered with the same respect After which De Ruiter sent two Officers to complement the Capitan Denavi and so took leave of us We were becalmed that night so that we found our selves next morning in the same Gulph still opposite to Corone But a moderate gale arising with the Sun not long after we doubled the Cape Metapan called in old time Promontorium Taenarium The Bay beyond it is called Brazza Dimagnio from the City Magnia situated at the bottom thereof The Magnoti who are the Inhabitants of that Country are famous Pirates by Sea and Pestilent Robbers by Land They have always bravely defended themselves against the Turks and maintained their Liberty till lately by this stratagem the Turks were too hard for them They got their consent to build two Forts upon their Coasts which they did so advantageously as soon made them Masters of their City and them And now none of them are exempted from paying Tribute but a few in the Mountains And some have quit their Country and are retired into Ponglia where the King of Spain hath assigned them an habitation They are naturally such Thieves that when any Vessel cometh into their Harbour they will go by night and cut the Cables of their Ships when they can find nothing else to lay hold of which sometimes endangers the Vessels running a shore when not discover'd in time Some Mariners of this place that were on board of us gave us this account of their Country with many diverting Stories of the same nature which they glory in One of the Officers of our Ship who had been at the Town related a Story that well expresseth their Thieving nature Some strangers being at one of the Villages of these Magnoti caused their Baggage to be brought into an old Womans house whilst they baited themselves and their Horses But soon after their Hostess fell bitterly a weeping The strangers surprized at it began to enquire the reason Then one of them answering for her said That perhaps it was because the sight of other Country-men put her in mind of the miserable estate of the Magnoti were reduced unto But she made them this short reply and told them it was false her weeping was because her Son was not at home to rob them of their baggage Such pleasant Conferences as these made our time seem less tedious whilst our slow passing of this Gulph made it the Fourth day from Zant to Cerigo Cerigo hath the Morea North of it CERIGO and was called anciently Cithaera famous for being the Native Country of Venus and Helena So that were we to frame an Idea of this place from the fame of these Beauties we might imagine it one of the most charming places of the World But on the contrary the greatest part of it is a barren rocky and Mountainous Soil ill peopled and can brag of no plenty neither of Corn Wine nor Oyl which undoubtedly made Venus change her own Country for Cyprus and Helena so willing to be stollen and carried into the pleasant Plains of the Continent What Beauties it now produceth I am ignorant of for I remember not that I saw a Woman there It s plenty consists in Mutton and Fowls as Turtles Venus beloved Birds Quails and Partridges Abundance of Hares and Falcons breed here but the people for what I could understand addict not themselves to Hawking The chief Town and Fort lieth on the South-side of the Island strong only towards the Sea on which it looketh from a Precipice Under it is a Harbour but open to the Southerly VVinds. Upon our entry into the Port whether by neglect or unskilfulness of our Captain we ran foul of another Ship of our company and if we did not endanger did at least considerable damage to both It hath about three or four miles South a little Rock called the Ovo or Egg the top of which they say is covered with Scorzonera and is inhabited only by Falcons that breed there From the Fort also is to be seen Cerigotto another little Island inhabited only by VVild Goats It belonged to Colonel Macarioti who served in Candia before it was taken He is reported to have behaved himself at that Siege very gallantly He made us taste of very good VVine of Cerigo where he now liveth From Cerigo in clear and fair weather Candia may be seen beyond Cerigotto This Island is still under the Dominion of the Venetians who send a Proveditor thither Our Vessel parted hence before the rest to take in fresh water at Port Saint Nicolo which lieth on the East-side of this Island and is undoubtedly that for which Strabo saith The Island hath a good Harbour there being beside the Harbour for great Vessels a natural Creek in the Rocks large enough for Forty Gallies which may easily be tied together and secured from without with a Chain Near the Shore here digging you have very good VVater which is indeed from a little Rivolet that in the heat of Summer seems perfectly dry in the Channel but still preserves it self some three foot under the ground VVe found ancient Ruins near this place which we took to be the Ruins of Menelaus his City in old time King of this Isle They are almost level with the ground Among these Ruins are some Grotto's cut out of the Rock which one of the Island pretending to be an Antiquary assured us were anciently the Baths of Helena affirming that her Palace was not above three or four miles from thence on the Hills VVe took this Antiquary for our guide and went to see what we could find of it But all we discover'd were two Pillars standing upright but without Chapitars and the Bases so deep in the ground that we could not judge of what order they were They were neither Chanell'd nor altogether plain but their Fusts cut into Angles about the breadth of an usual Channel and that not the whole length of their Fusts but some proportionable part only I rather believe it to have been some ancient Temple than a Palace They now call the place Paleo-Castro or Old Castle The situation of it is such that it looketh over the best part of the Island having a good fruitful Valley on the VVest and another not barren on the East toward the Sea-side I went up a little higher a simpling but discerning the rest of our Fleet under Sail and our Ship
been the way up Which have been wonderfully Beautified with Porticoes or Cloysters and other Buildings as the abundance of Pillars Pedestals Architraves and other Fragments of excellent Marble ranging streight and Parallel to each other do sufficiently testifie There are few Chapitels of Pillars to be seen here or any where in the Island because their Beauty made them esteemed worth carrying away ΠΟΠΛΙΟΣ ΤΟΥΤΩΙ ΥΠΕΡΕ ΤΩÎΙΔΙΩΠΣΑΡΑΠΙΔΙ ΙΣΙΔΙΑÎΟΥΒΙΔΙ ΑΡΠΟ ΧΡΑΤΕΙ ΔΙΟΣΚΟΥΡΟΙΣ ΕΠΙ ΙΕΡΕΩΣ ΣΤΑΣΕΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΦΙΛΟ ΚΛΕΟΥΣ ΚΟΛΩÎΗΘΕΠAmong these ruins we found an Altar dedicated to Serapis Isis Anubis Harpocrates and the Dioscouri who perhaps had a Temple there though not mention'd by Ancient Authors or at least an Altar in some other Temple For here was one dedicated to Latona the Mother of Apollo which Strabo calleth 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and another of Hercules as appeareth by the Inscription of Patron under the Archontship of Phaedrus which I but now cited The chief City of this Island reacheth from Mount Cynthus Northwards to the streight between the Island Rheneia and the place where we here first put ashore and saw the Gymnasium For the ruins are continued so far in length and from the Sea Westwards near half the breadth of the Island From the top of this Mountain I took the prospect of it with its other hills and ruins as I have here designed it In the evening we return'd to our Boat purposing to get to our Vessel that Night but we found the Sea so rough that it was impossible to be done and therefore the Boat being drawn ashore with Stoechas Citrina and our Quilts that we brought for fear of such an accident we took our Lodging up that Night in hopes of a calm in the Morning But the next day the wind was as high as before yet we resolved to trie to get out and keeping under the Lee shore to cross over to Micone Nevertheless so soon as we were got out of the little harbour the Sea running so high that it had almost dash'd our Boat against a rock we were forced to put into the next Bay Northward of the former and there draw our Boat ashore and expect in God's good time a fairer opportunity We had not only bad weather by Sea but also a distress ashore to struggle with being in a barren and desert Island almost destitute of all sorts of Provisions Victuals Wine and Water In this perplexity we went to the top of a steep rock which makes the Northern Cape of the Island there to cherish our hopes with the sight of our Fleet from which we expected our relief But to our amazement and the increase of our sorrows we perceived them to be under Sail and our selves like to be left behind Yet were our troubles somewhat alleviated when we saw that our Ships the current running strong between Tine and Micone and the wind contrary could not pass that way but were forced to bear over and come to Anchor at Micone Our provisions at this time were reduced to one Penny Loaf and two or three Morsels of Bisquit our water was spilt and not an English pint of Wine left nor knew we of any Water in the Island we had searched before but in vain for the River Inopus which Strabo mentions to have been in this Island but now to be found no where and perhaps it was only a torrent after some great Rain or some little brook that the heaps of ruins now keep hid or else it riseth in some part so near the Sea-shore that it scaped our most diligent search unless it be in one place which I shall hereafter mention In a word we had no spade nor any other Instrument to dig and find fresh water with Thus pensive and melancholy we separated and went several ways to entertain our selves with solitary Contemplations I fetched a walk towards a hill on the North-east Corner of the Island which we had not before searcht It is near as high as Mount Cynthus on the top whereof are the Foundations of the Wall of a square Town or Castle Fossed without but not very deep From whence below in the Valley Eastward I discovered many Ruins Foundations and Pillars which we had not yet seen As I descended going along by the side of the hill that I might see all with more ease I found two Cisterns but without water The one was newly dried as by the mud at the bottom appeared from it goeth a ditch to the Ruins beyond which by the Sea-side on a rising ground is a Foundation with some Pillars standing and others down perhaps it hath been a Portico to some other great Building This is the most pleasant and fruitful part of the Island Two stones-cast from this Westward and South of the Isle are the Foundations of two Temples in one of which I found a Pedestal of a Statue dedicated to Mithridates Eupator Son of Mithridates Evergetes erected by Dionysius Nesanus an Athenian who was that time Gymnasiarch The first was that famous King of Pontus who made War with the Romans for so long a time Ibid. Mac. VIII and was at last defeated by Pompey Mithridates Evergetes the Father was a Friend and Allie of the Romans This place I believe to have been the New Athens at Delos of which the Inscription in Saint Marks Library at Venice makes often mention and is Printed in Gruterus Page CCCCV. the Community whereof I think likewise subscribed to the Inscription of that stone which was erected to the honour of Patron This Town was Built at the charge of the Emperour Adrian by the Athenians and called New Athens which in all probability was the place Stephanus Byzaut saith was before called Olympoeum in Delos One of the Temples there might be that of Hercules mentioned in the Inscription of Patron and set in that Temple and the other that of Neptune In the celebration of those Sacrifices Patron 's was to be yearly Crowned with a Golden Crown and whither it is not improbable but that a chanel might have come from the Cisterns to supply water for the publick service and other uses in his Temple I know not whether I may properly call that a Cistern I now speak off for perhaps it may sometimes be a spring making the River Inopus which had its overflowings like the Nile for the place sheweth no art but meerly a deep bed where I perceived water had been But whether saved there by Rain or by rising out of the Earth I cannot tell yet the time of the year seemed to argue against the former it being in the heat of Summer when little Rain falls in those parts After I had ranged over this corner of the Island with some satisfaction though pensive enough when I thought how miserable we were like to be if the weather staied us untill our Ships were gone I returned to take my share of that little provision we had left which we divided with all the Geometry we had
into equal parts wherewith though we filled not our bellies yet all seemed satisfied The Doctor and one of our Watermen were not yet returned but we saved their parts But for the next meal we were very sollicitous not knowing whose turn it might first be to have his haunches cut out to serve for Venison to the rest Some went a hunting with the Flemmish Gentleman which brought his Gun and Dog with him and found good sport with the Hares and Rabbets in which this Island yet abounds being sometimes called Lagia for that reason But Monsieur Engrand and I being weary of our Mornings walks stayed by the Boat and tried some Philosophical experiments how to make fresh water and first how the Sea-water would do by passing it through sand with which we filled our Basket emptied of provisions for I rememb'red I had read some such experiment but this proved without effect After this we fell a digging on the shore at some distance from the Sea with our hands sharp stones and the ends of our spears 'till we scraped so deep that at length we found water but it was salt Our Philosophy failing after two or three hours we return'd to the Boat hot with the toyl scorched with the Sun and thirsty with tasting the salt water and so in despair of relief laid our selves down in all the shade we could make under the side of the Boat For here groweth now no Palm-trees or any other that can make one committing our selves to the mercy of the great Preserver as well as Creator of beings But to lose no time I began to recollect what Plants I had seen here Besides the abundance of Stoechas Citrina I before spake of here groweth Lentiscus or the Mastick shrub in great plenty wild upon which I observed Tears of Mastick which made us believe that if it were cultivated here as well as at Scio it might bear as well as there Doctor Crescentio who knew that there was water in the Island and therefore resolved never to give over looking untill he had found some came within an hour after with this most welcome news that he had sound a Cistern of water this made us all though Greeks Romans English French Dutch and as differing in Religion as in Country agree in one to give praise to our great Preserver Not long after returned our hunters with a Rabbet and some Birds So all together we went with the Mariners about a mile from thence to the top of a little hill to the North-East of the Island where the ground riseth a little higher then the Theater with Ruins round it and hath on the top of all a little hollow place wherein is a small hole broken into a large Arched Cistern only big enough for a man to descend through by a Rope For the water is not directly under the hole but in a further corner not easily seen the Cistern being much filled with rubbish It proved excellent water This I have been larger upon than ordinary lest some whose curiosity should lead them thither may have the same need of it as we had Having filled all the Vessels we had we returned cheerfully to our Boat to prepare our Venison for supper which with a Loaf Monsieur Spon had laid by for a good time we eat heartily and with no little satisfaction not doubting but he that did this would when he saw it convenient for us still the winds and raging of the Sea also After this we made a great fire on the hill of Staechas Citrina and such other combustible stuff as we found there to give notice to our Vessel that we wanted help This done we laid our selves down as the Night before but with no great mind to rest Before day we found the wind much abated and in effect a calm Sowe took the opportunity and put out to Sea and although it ran high yet the wind being low by great providence we passed safe the Chanel about four miles over to the Port and Town of Micone Micone is so called by the Franks and was by the Ancient Greeks and is yet by the Modern called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Micone The Poets fancied this to be the Burying place of the Centaurs conquered by Hercules It is not so far distant from Delos as Ferrarius in his Dictionary assureth it being but four miles at the most Between it and Delos is a Scoglio called by the Franks Dragonera by the Greeks Tragonisi that is the Island of Goats Micone hath a good and large harbour towards the West-side of it is rather bigger than lesser then Tine and may have twenty five or thirty miles in circumference It is fruitful in Wine and Corn especially Barley and is well peopled and by Christians only but now under the protection of the Turks Their Governour is a Christian sent by the Turks from Constantinople Monsieur Bandrond is therefore mistaken who hath augmented the Dictionary of Ferrarius to put it under the Venetians I had no information whether it ever were or when taken by the Turks Perhaps it was slighted in the War of Candia because not tenable For they have but one Town without any Fortifications by nature or art which lieth within the harbour There is about thirty Greek Churches and only one Latin in the Town They pay to the Turk a tribute which he sendeth for yearly but as to the true Sum I know not how to decide the difference between my Companions Memoirs and my Journal For he saith it is Three Thousand and Six Hundred Dollers but I have noted only that they present the Turk as often as he sendeth his Gallies Two Hundred Dollers besides the mischief they suffer from them in their Figs and Vineyards Perhaps the first claimed as a duty to the grand Signior and the last only as a present to the Carathi who with great greediness extort presents for themselves where ever they come The greatest part of the Inhabitants are Pyrats and this place is a great Staple for their prey Here they keep their Wives Children and Mistresses The greatest part of the Town seems to consist of Women who deservedly have a greater reputation for Beauty then Chastity the Men being most of them abroad seeking their Fortunes Our Captain had here a Seraglio of them when he was a Corsaire in these Seas as I before mentioned But those being now antidated he was for new game at his coming hither and therefore found out a pretty young Virgin for his Mistress which he bought of her Brutal Father as provision for his Voyage to Constantinople The History of the taking her I will not let pass without relating it because I was by accident at the Rape of this fair Helena The Admiral of our little Fleet unexpectedly hoisting Sail before he had brought her aboard he sent his long Boat to fetch her away by some of his trusty Servants I having left something ashore where I Lodged begged leave of
the Captain to go with the Boat which I obtained with some difficulty not imagining the reason of their putting ashore at that time They went streight to the Captains house while I went to fetch my things When I returned back to them I found them very merry drinking with some other Women the Captain had formerly kept and also some Pirats who had been of the Captains Comrades esteemed very stout Men. One I remember was extreamly civil to me and offer'd me many Favours I knew not how to accept of and withall assured me that if he had the fortune to meet me at Sea that he would treat me with all civility imaginable for which I thanked him hoping never to have any need of his kindness Those sent by the Captain went streight to the house of this young one who with weeping and great seeming unwillingness suffered her self to be carried to the Boat whilst her Mother put the rest of the Women in the Town in an uproar who in multitudes followed her to the water-side The Mother stood raging on the shore as if she had not known what her Husband had done whilst some stood to look and others I Judge to be looked on For along the shore I believe above a hundred Girls from ten or eleven to fourteen or fifteen years old stood with their Coats as high as their middle I guess to signifie they were ready to accompany her so soon as occasion offered Thus she was conveyed aboard and a Cabin built for her where the Captain could retire to her himself and oblige the rest of his Friends He kept the next day a Feast inviting his Officers as to his Nuptials and had her dressed very fine in a Venetian habit For the Women of Miconie's dress is very odd although they seem to become them there I have caused what I designed of it to be cut as here you may see Lib I. Fig XIIII Their Hair is twisted and tied up ordinarily in a Hair-lace with Pendants in their Ears over which when they go abroad they wrap a Yellow Silken Vail as thin as Tiphany with the end flying loose about their shoulders They wear a Bodies of Red or Green Velvet laced with Silver or Gold lace in the seams out of which come their Arms in a long and large linnen sleeve sometimes laced or wrought at the hands wide at the ends resembling a Surplice About the wast is a long plaited skirt of Cloth made of Cotton The thick plaiting sheweth it to talâ— up sufficient quantity of stuff under which is another garment of the same stuff plaited which reacheth down to their knees To make this they say they ordinarily put a hundred yards of Fustian and upon it they wear an Apron that reacheth not quite so low under which appeareth their smock again reaching as far as the calf of the Leg embroidered at the edges And then their Legs and Feet in Cotton stockings almost to the Toes which are hid with the top of their slippers covered with Velvet sometimes laced with Gold lace Here I saw no Monuments of Antiquity only my Landlord Signior Georgio sold me a Silver Medal of the Country which had the head as I guess of Jupiter with a wreath about it on one side and on the reverse a bunch of Grapes and by it the end of a Launce with these Letters MYKO which assureth it to have been there Stamped The Grapes signifie their plenty of Wine as indeed there is now no want of it nor of any other provision Wild Foul is there very cheap a brace of Partridges cost not ordinarily above a Groat or Six-pence although they made us pay Ten-pence because we were Strangers If they had plenty of Powder and Shot perhaps they would be much cheaper Water and Wood are scarce one great Cistern being all that serveth the whole Town Friday the Thirteenth of August we parted from Micone and passed between it and Tine On Saturday Morning we saw a far off on the Right-hand Nicaria Anciently called Icaria famous for the History of Icarus and Daedalus The North-wind arising drove us towards Samos which we saw about Twenty Miles off East-wards Towards the evening we were driven almost into the Chanel between the shore of Asia and the Isle Scio So that we were forced to make a great board to double the Scoglio Venetico near to which we passed On Sunday Morning we discovered Scyros and the little Isle Caloiro which some mistaken take to be Giaros now called Joura as before When one discovereth this Island a far off one would think it to be the Sails of a Ship At Night the wind coming about South-east we passed between the Scoglio Pisara and the Isle Scio. The wind continuing yet favourable we left Metelin the Ancient Lesbos on the Right-hand On Monday a good fresh gale rising with the Sun carried us by Night in sight of Tenedos Where two of our Ships the Jove Fulminante and the Fortunetta being better Sailers cast Anchor whilst we were that Night becalmed The Seventeenth the North-wind rose again insomuch that our Ship was forced to make two great boards to get under the covert of Tenedos towards the Southern end in the Chanel between it and the Country of Troy Here we had so little shelter from the wind that we were forced to cast out two Anchors to resist the stream and the wind by this time was so high that it endangered the Mast and rent one of the Sails before it could be furled But before we proceed any further I will give you an account of some other Islands in the Archipelago which we passed by and such other particulars as we learned from our Sea-men But of Samos Nicharia and Patmos I shall say nothing since Joseph Georgirenes Archbishop of Samos hath lately given the World an ample account thereof Translated out of the Vulgar Greek by a Learned Divine into English to whom I refer my Reader Scio Anciently Chios is one of the noblest Islands in the Archipelago SCIO It lieth near the Asian shore between Smyrna and Ephesus is well Inhabited and Frultful having one good City and about a dozen or fifteen Villages They cultivate the Mastick and Turpentine Trees and make great advantage of both of them their Gums being much valued all over Europe The description of both Trees you may see in Gerard Page 1432. they both grow in the Southern parts of France but produce no Gum there this place is renowned at present for good Wine and handsom Women and those very kind The description you may see at large in Mr. Sands who was so fortunate as to see it They make there also some course Damasques which they send into Barbarie The Island hath a very good Harbour and a good Fort where the Grand Signior keepeth a Garrison It hath a bold shore round about it but as to its Circumference I know not how to give my judgment having had no information in
rather that modern Ilium Strabo calleth of his time which from a Village of the Trojans was begun to be Built by Alexander the great and was finished by Lysimachus and called Alexandria afterwards made a Roman Colonie and enriched with many priviledges This our worthy Country-man Mr. Sands hath remarked and discoursed of at large having I believe followed Strabo for his guide But to proceed A little above this Port are several Marble Tombs some with the head of Apollo on them and others with Bucklers but I saw none here with Inscriptions Monsieur Spon observed that they were of the shape of those Roman Tombs at Arles in France and therefore with all likely hood we judged them to be such and not of the Ancient Trojans as Petro della Valle phansieth More South of the Port are two Pillars lying upon the ground of thirty Foot in length apiece and another broken in three pieces thirty five Foot as Monsieur Spon Measured them and the Diameter of this last four Foot and nine Inches of Granate Marble of Egypt The Grand Signior hath had a great many Pillars carried from hence to Build the New Mosque of the Sultane Mother Going yet a little further along the shore we passed by some Ruins that we supposed might have been an Aqueduct to bring water to the Port Some distance yet forward brought us to a Chanel or Valley which is long streight and deep and undoubtedly made by Art perhaps to let in the Sea for Boats to come to the City But it is now altogether drie Streight up beyond this Vallie a little on the Right hand we came to abundance of considerable Ruins which evidently discover the former greatness of this place There is a Theater there the Foundations and Walls of vast Temples and Palaces with Arches above and Vaults under ground There is also part of a little round Temple standing which hath a curious Marble Cornish within and hard by three Marble stones made in the fashion of Altars or Pedestals with Inscriptions on them differing only in the last Letters as VIC VII and VIC VIII DIVI JULI FLAMINI C. ANTONIO M. F. VOLT RVFO FLAMINI DIVI AUG COL CL. APRENS ET COL LUL. PHILIPPENS EORUNDEM ET PRINCIPI ITEM COL IVL. PARIANAE-TRIB MILIT COH XXXII VOLUN TAPIOR TRIB MIL. LEG XIII GEM PRAEF EQUIT ALAEI SCUBULORUM VIC VII They were erected in honour of Caius Antonius Rufus Son of Marcus of the Tribe Voltinia Priest to Julius and Augustus Caesar chief of the Colonie of Apros of Claudius of Philipi of Julius as likewise of the Parthian Colonie of Julius the first two Cities of Thrace and the last upon the Hellespont a Tribune of the Militia of the XXXII Cohort of Voluntiers Commander of the XIII Legion called Gemina and Captain of the first Wing of Horse of the Scibuli Who these Scibull were I know not whether a People or a kind of Militia Nor is the last line of every one of them easily understood Monsieur Spon thinketh that VIC VII VIC VIII VIC IX upon each of them may fignifie Vicus Septimus Vicus Octavus c. The Seventh Eighth or Ninth streets in which these Statues were set up in imitation of the streets and quarters of Rome to which it was a Colony planted by Augustus who restored it again as appeareth by many Medals which shew it to have taken the name of Colonia Augusti Troas from him From the sea shore there is a very easy ascent unto the top of the hill which is not high but crowned with the Ruins of a most stately Building What it hath been whether Castle Temple or Christian Church is hard to determin Which because none that I have seen hath yet done I will endeavour to describe according to the dimensions I there took of it Lib. j Fig XV The whole length is about Four Hundred and thirteen Foot from North to South the breadth from East to West Two Hundred Twenty Four The chief Front looked towards the West where at the entrance you leave two Wings of Foundations one on the Right-hand and the other on the Left of equal length and parallel to each other That on the Left-hand is divided into two oblongs Whereof that which is outmost Northward is Twenty four paces wide or Seventy four Foot and hath meerly the Foundations of the out walls remaining and plain ground within The next is Thirteen paces wide or Thirty nine Foot and is the greatest part of it Vaulted and Arched underground The other wing on the Left hand is of equal length and Thirty three paces or Ninety nine Foot in breadth This hath nothing but the Foundations of the Walls remaining and plain ground within Lib j. Fig XVI Between these two there seemeth to have been a large Court which brings you to three great Arches in a great and high wall before which lieth a vast heap of Marble Pillars Pilasters Cornishes and other great Square-pieces in such confused manner that it is hard to judge in what form they were erected But a Capital and some Pillars shew them to have been of the Corinthian order Channelled I doubt not but these made a most Magnificent Portico before those three Arches which where the Gates to enter into this Building For the Wall it self is but of Free-stone except the Frize on high and some other Ornaments to the Arches which are of Marble and above the Marble Freeze the wall beginning to bend forward Arch-wise as if it were to Vault a Portico and the whole wall finisheth at each end about the length of the heap of Marble The dimensions of this wall and Arches are as I took them by a French Foot which differeth from ours but three parts of an hundred The middle Arch is Forty foot wide and hath been walled up of the same stone and work all to two little doors at each side The two little Arches on each hand of it are Nineteen foot wide apiece and filled up with stones so that there is no entrance by them The distance between the Arches is Ten foot the distanoe from Arch to each Corner-end is Eleven and an half The Front is thick Fourteen foot So that I judge the Portico was a Hundred and Twenty foot long and about the breadth that the great Arch is wide which is Forty foot Whose Vault was sustained within by those three Arches yet remaining and without towards the Court by those Corinthian Pillars of White Marble now lying in a heap before the Arches which without doubt must have had a wonderful effect upon the Eyes of the beholders Where the wall of the Arches finish begin the Foundations of another wall on each hand in a streight line of the same breadth and reacheth about Forty one foot to the other Foundations I first mentioned so that the whole of the Front within the Court is Two Hundred and three foot Entring at the middle Gate or Arch presently you meet another Arch which is
an Account he gave of their Learning beyond the ordinary Opinion of the World He assured us That at Constantinople there was a Bazar or Exchange for Manuscript Books for they suffer no Printing of different Sciences in the Turkish Arabian and Persian Languages the two last beeing their learned Languages as Greek and Latin are in Christendom but that it was dangerous for Christians to frequent them as Monsieur Spon was made sensible when we passed by Prosa For seeing some Arabick Manuscripts he would have cheapned them but was reproachfully sent away with the Name of Goure or Infidel Mr. Watson assured us that they keep annual Registers of all things that pass throughout the whole Extent of their Empire and of the Wars they have with their Neighbouring Countries That one might have a Copy of these Annals in five or six great Volums for Two hundred Crowns That there are Historians and Writers who have a Salary for writing in the Seraglio That there was another good Book to be had concerning the Government of the Ottoman Empire and that he himself had bought a Chest full of Turkish and Arabian Books among which he had many very rare pieces as one of Chek-Bouni an Egyptian concerning the Vertue of Divine and Human Words full of Figures and Lines by which he pretends to do abundance of curious tricks by Anagrams Another that sheweth the Theory of the Cabalistick Art A Dictionary in Turkish and Arabick A Book of Songs wherein there are many very antient ones as of Avicen and Albucherche Turkish and Persian Grammers with Alphabets of all Languages A Book of all the Revolutions of the Kingdom of Egypt written by a Cheke or Doctor of Grand Cairo a great Astrologer whose Predictions have alwayes proved so true that when Sultan Selim made War against the King of Egypt all that King's Counsellors told him That it was but Folly to resist although he had a very puissant Army consisting of Moors Arabs and Mammalucks because according to this Book Selim was to conquer Egypt which accordingly came to pass He shewed us also a Book that he said was a Calculation of the several Degrees of the overflowing of the River of Nilus regulated according to the Motion of the Planets especially of the Moon by an Arabian Doctor Another of Chiromancy more curious than those of John Battista Porta In which the Author pretends That the Characters of the Hands are Letters of which he gives the Alphabet He also told us of another called Bauraan an antient Author containing abundance of Chimical Experiments commented on by a Cheke who was a Moor with whom he was acquainted at Grand Cairo Where he assured us there were abundance of very considerable Persons who applyed themselves to this Study and most other Sciences At another time he shewed us the History of Tamerlan in Arabick more ample than that Translated out of the Arabick of Alhacen Two Books of Talisman's teaching their Principles and Practice out of which he affirmeth That Monsieur Gaffarelle had borrowed all he had written in his Book of Vnheard of Curiosities That Hugo Grotius had stollen all his Principal Arguments for the Truth of the Christian Religion out-of Arabian Authors and particularly from the Works of an Eminent Man whom the Latins hold to be an Arch-Heretick But the Cofty's a Saint who wrote an excellent Book against the Turks and Jews for the Truth of the Christian Religion And what is more to be wondered at he assured us That he had seen an antient Book of Astronomy which did suppose the Magnetick Needle although he did not apply it to Navigation but to other Astrological uses He shewed us also a general History of Grand Cairo and a Description of all the Churches of Constantinople at the time it was taken by the Turks both written in Arabick Lastly He told us That both at Grand Cairo and Constantinople there were publick Professors that taught Astrology Astronomy Geometry Arithmetick Poetry the Arabian and Persian Languages When we were at this Corner of the Town CONSTANTINE'S PALACE we went to an old Building they say was Constantine's Palace which stands upon the highest Ground on that side of the City for from the Harbour to it is an Ascent and thence towards the Seven Towers the Ground again descends What remains of it expresses no Magnificence being only a long Stone building with a Hall sustained by Pillars and some Rooms over it Without the Walls from hence to the Seven Towers on the Brow of the Hill is a good Walk but the Valley West-wards of it being only the burying Place of the Turks and Jews makes it somewhat Melancholly Among these here and there towards the Haven are some Monuments of Turks of Quality of white Marble shaded with Plane Trees and Cypress Trees Here we went to see that of Sultan Eliub SULTAN ELIUB'S TOMB near the Harbour whom they esteem as a Prophet and great Saint and therefore it is frequented by the Zealous Turks with a great deal of Devotion The Tomb is covered with a kind of Canopy hung with Green and many Lamps continually burning about it Without is a small Quadrangle with a Portico and Gallery encompassing it and a little Chappel in the middle Here the Grand Signior is inaugurated only by the Ceremony of a Sword girt about him by the Mufti signifying that his Authority consisteth in the Power he hath obtained by that and by that must still be maintained We observed near this Angle of the City where the Water falls into a Cistern and thence conveyed into other adjacent Parts of the Town There are no Suburbs of Buildings contiguous to Constantinople THE HARBOUR the Walls standing being bare all round the three sides but instead thereof it hath over the Water great and populous Towns and Cities which we observed with great pleasure in our Return as they lay all in view round about the Harbour Whereof the North-side of Constantinople encompasseth the South and South-West Shore To which Scutari on the Asian Shore seems to be joyned East-wards and to Scutari on the Thracian Shore Tophana Fondoucli and Gallata And to Gallata some Suburbs appertaining to it where they kill their Meat beyond which are Buildings and dry Harbours to keep the Gallies from the Weather in the Winter These bound the Harbour on the North-East North and North-West sides All these Buildings rising by Degrees higher and higher from the several Shores to the tops of considerable high and steep Hills make the Harbour look like a vast Naumachia giving a most Magnificent Spectacle to the Beholders into it At the further end which lies North-Westwards a small River of fresh Water emptieth it self whose Banks are adorned with several pleasant Gardens and shady Trees But the Beauty is not the only Excellency of this Harbour for I believe it also excells most in the World for Security and Capacity It hath more depth than is needful good Moorage and so
is a place that aboundeth with all sorts of Provisions whether Corn Flesh or Fish only Wine is scarce by reason that it is prohibited But though there be none permitted to be sold in the City at Gallata are some Christian Cabarets but the Wine is dear They sell it by weight here and all over Turkey The Oka which is a weight of about forty two Ounces is sold here for a quarter of a Doller that is about fourteen Pence and contains about three Pints and an half or two Quarts The best Wine is made by the Jews who by their Law must not make Mixtures They have great plenty of many sorts of good Fish Oysters here are better than I tasted them any where except in England The Sword-Fish is another I took notice of for its Goodness and firm fleshy Substance Their Fruits are excellent Figs Peaches and Apples very fair and good The Turks are very sweet-tooth'd and love all kind of sweet Meats But I cannot commend them for good Confectioners They preserve Fruits with new Wine boyled to Syrup Honey and sometimes Sugar which although they are not ill-tasted would hardly pass with our English Ladies they are so ill-colour'd Their most ordinary Drink is Water next a Sorbet made of Raisins steeped in Water But the Richer sort have Sorbet made of Sugar and Honey boyled to a consistence with the Juyce of lemons which they mix with Water when they use it Coffee they drink at any time but at Meal and is the usual Entertainment when any come to visit them About a dozen or fifteen Miles North from Gallata BELGRADE towards the Black Sea we went to see a place which from the Beauty and Pleasantness of it is called Belgrade The Country lies high shaded with abundance of Woods watered with many wholsom Springs stored with several sorts of Game accommodated with several small Villages at convenient Distances and the Air very good and healthful To these shady Woods many Persons of Quality as well of the Turks as Ambassadours and rich Merchants retire to enjoy the fresh Air in the scorching Heats of Summer and to hunt at the proper Seasons of the Year Here some build them pretty Houses of Pleasure others stately Chiosques or Banquetting-Houses and others content themselves to sojourn in Tents they stretch out under the tall Trees near some refreshing Spring All these Springs are with great Care and greater Charges collected into several large Cisterns near each of which is built a stately Chiosque or Summer-house The usual Form of them is square contrived so with large Pent-house-Roofs for shade yet so open round about that one enjoys all the Liverty Freshness and Goodness of the open Air without the least Inconvenience from the heat of the Sun You mount up to them by four or five Steps to an Area paved with Purcelane Tile or Marble covered with Indian Mats or Carpets with Balusters or Rails about it The Roof also within is painted with several Colours as red green white and yellow and pretty Knots of Figures wrought on them From these Cisterns the Water is conveyed by Channels under ground to the several Aqueducts that carry it by many Windings and Turnings over the low Valleys from the tops of Hills to Hills until at last it is brought with a vast Charge to Constantinople Several of these we observed both in our way thither and return to Gallata AUQEDUCTS Especially one about mid-way joyning two Hills together cross a Valley at least half a Mile over This consists of two Ranges of Arches whereof the lowermost hath fifty and the uppermost fifty one and I believe from the deepest part of the Valley to the top of the Aqueduct is above thirty Yards There is another in sight of this Eastwards which bends and makes an Angle This hath three Ranges of Arches one above the other but not so many in number North of this first we saw another which joyns two Hills together by a narrow but very deep Valley This hath but four Arches in two Tanges but the Arches are exceedign large I measured them not but Mr. Smith saith They are above fifty Foot wide The Care of these Waters and the cleansing of these Aqueducts and Channels are imposed upon the adjacent Villages for which service they are freed from all other Taxes Most of these Aqueducts were built by the latter Roman and Greek Emperours But by Time Wars and Neglignece being run to decay and ruined they were repaired again at the great Charge and indefatigable Industry of Sultan Suliman who for this and the stately Mosque he built in the City was deservedly called the Magnificent These Waters being thus brought to the City are again collected into several great Cisterns and thence again by earthen Pipes dispersed to the several Quarters private Houses and publick Buildings of the City Whereof one is against the wall of the City by Ballata another under Hagia-Sophia and Mr. Smith speaks of one at Sultan Selim's Mosque The Plants I took notice of hereabouts were 1. PLANTS A kind of Dwarf-Abrotonum with Flowers like Cammonil 2. A sort of Serpillum with Leaves like Savoury the Smell also differing from ours Lib II. Fig Ix Androsoemum Constaninopolitaâ—um flore maximo I found another Plant going thither and to the Black-Sea also which I know not to what species to refer unless to Androsemum majus which we call Parks-Leaves For the Leaves are of the substance and colour only longer and of a more tough Substance growing two by two on a shrubby square Stalk of a reddish colour not rising from the ground above a span high On the top of which succeedeth a large yellow Flower much bigger than Parks-Leaves filled with a large Tuft of the same our of which before the Flower is fallen beginneth to rise a long Vessel divided into five Appartments full of reddish Seeds The Smell is like the best Turpentine but more fragrant and like Coris Of it I observed two sorts The difference is only that the other by pairs cross each other It spreads upon the Ground in heaps so that seldom one shall find one Stalk alone Since my writing this I find that Dr. Morison hath described this Plant in his excellent History of Plants having raised it in the Botanick Garden at Oxford of which Science he is the Learned Professour out of the Seeds I sent to that University and hath named it Androsemum Olympii montis flore semine Theca quinque capsulari ominum maximus which is extreamly well distinguished only he should have put in Byzantinum or Constantinopolitanum instead of Montis Olympii as he hath done lately in a Letter to me with the Design of the Plant I here give you I also there saw some Trees of Guaiacum Patavinum which were shewed us as a Rarity at Pera. We waited a good while for a calm Day to go to the Mouth of the Black Sea to see the Pillar vulgarly called
remarkable for is That although it be but a Rock not much above thirty Yards about encompassed by the Sea at least half a Mile from any Shore very deep yet it hath a Fountain of fresh Water which as they assured us ariseth out of the Rock and was no Cistern I took notice that the Current of the Bosphorus runs very swift on each side of it SCUTARI From thence Scutari is the nearest Shore and is situate opposite to the Haven between the two Promontories of the Seraglio and Gallata It is now a large City and is beautified with a Royal Mosque built and endowed by the Sultaness-Mother It seemeth to be in the same place that Strabo puts Chrysopolis but we observed nothing of Antiquity there We went through the Town up to the top of the Hill South-ward and passed through a very large Burying-place of the Turks containing I believe above ten or a dozen Acres which is ordinary in Turkey because they bury not in the place where another hath been buried They therefore set a Stone upright one at the Head and another at the Feet of each Body Proceeding a little further on the Brow of the Hill we had a good Prospect towards Constantinople Gallata the Propontis and the Bosphorus And here the Grand Signior hath a House of Pleasure called as they do others Serai or as the Francks form it Seraglio They told us That it was built after the Persian made by the Father to this Grand Signior Hard by this we took Water CHALCEDON and passed a little reach about a a Mile and half to Chalcedon now but a blind Town as its Founders for their ill Choice were esteemed by the Oracle It is more antient than Byzantium but now famous for nothing but the Memory of the Great Council held there in the Year of our Lord 327. and 20th of the Reign of Constantine the Great The first thing we did was to visit the Metropolitan Church where they say it was kept But Monsieur Nanteul assured us That it was a Mile from thence and that he had there read an Inscription that mentioneth it Beside that it is but a small obscure Building uncapable to contain such an Assembly The Turks call it Cadiqui but the Greeks yet Chalcedona Here we found some antient Sepulchral Monuments and upon one an Inscription We found another Inscription in the Wall of a private House near the Church which signifieth That Evante Son of Antipater having made a prosperous Voyage towards the Abrotanians and the Islands Cyaneae at the Mouth of the Euxin Sea as I before noted and hence desiring to return by the Aegean Sea and Pontus offered Cakes at this Statue which he had erected to Jupiter who had sent him such good Weather as a Token of his good Voyage ΟΥΡΙΟΠΕΠΙ ΠΡΙΜÎΗΣ ΤΙΣ ΟΔΗΓΗΤΗΡΑ ΚΑΛΕΙΤΩ ΖΗÎΑ ΚΑΤΑ ΠΡΩΤΟΠΩÎΙΣΤΙΟΠΕΚΠΕΤΑΣΑΣ ΕΠΙ ΚΥΑÎΕΑΣ ΔΙÎΑΣ ΔΡΟΜΟΥΣ ΕÎΘΑ ΠΟΣΕΙΔΩΠΚΑΜΠΥΛΟΠΕΙΛΙΣΣΕΙ ΚΥΜΑ ΠΑΡΑ ΨΑΜΑΘΟΙΣ ΕΙΤΑ ΚΑΤ ΑΙΓΑΙΑΠΠΟÎΤΟΥ ΠΛΑΚΑÎΑΣ ΕΡΕΥÎΩΠÎΕΙΣΘΩ ΤΩΙΔΕΒΑΛΛΩΠΨΑΙΣΤΑ ΠΑΡΑ ΤΩ ΖΩΑÎΩΙ ΟΔΕ ΤΟΠΕΥΑÎΤΗΤΟΠΑΕΙ ΘΕΟΠΑÎΤΙΠΑΤΡΟΥ ΠΑΙΣ ΣΤΗΣΕ ΦΙΛΩΠΑΓΑΘΗΣ ΣΥΜΒΟΛΟΠΕΥ ΠΛΟΙΗΣ The End of the Second Book THE Third BOOK THE VOYAGE Through the Lesser ASIA OR ANATOLIA CONTAINING An ACCOUNT of the most Considerable PLAGES thereof WHEN we had satisfied our Curiosity with Constantinople and the Places adjacent we began to consider how we might now return to visit Athens as we design'd But we found all the ways we had proposed to our selves so embarrassed with great Difficulties and evident Dangers that it was no easie matter for us to determin which of them to take Our first Determination was to go from hence to Adrianople to see the Grand Signior's Court so to Mount Athos now called Monte Santo which I had a particular desire to see and thence through Macedonia and Boeotia to Athens But my Lord Ambassadour who was then newly return'd from Adrianople disswaded us from that assuring us That without a Miracle it was not possible to escape the Plague all Thrace being so throughly infected with it that although he himself lay in no House or Kan in his Journey thence yet had lost one of his Servants by the way and was forced soon after his Arrival hither to quit his house because another fell sick of it So that we thought it would be presumption in us to adventure our selves that way and no less madness to hazard our selves at Sea now Winter was coming on in such small Barques as we must have done if as we had design'd we had gone but to Mount Athos to see how those Hermites spend their time there But whil'st we were in these doubts it happened that some of our English Merchants that came from Smyrna to wait on the Ambassadour at his Audience were ready to return again thither So that we suddenly resolved to take the Opportunity of their Company and see those Parts of Asia not doubting but from thence we might meet with an Opportunity according to our desire to pass into Greece And so in the good Company of Doctor Pickering Physician to the Factory at Smyrna Dr. Covel who was so kind as to bring us some part of the way and divers Merchants we made a common Purse taking a Barque among us and parted hence about Noon October the Sixth The first Village we passed by after Chalcedon was Phanari just without the Asian Promontory of the Propontis as the other is of the Euxin Sea and hath a Rock lying before it on which is placed a Pedestal of a Pillar like that of Pompey's Pillar which shews them both to have been set there only for a Sea-Mark A little further without the Bosphorus steering South-East-wards we left at the right hand the Island Prote where the Venetian Ships we came in lay not daring to venture into the Harbour of Constantinople by reason of the Plague A little further we left another little Island called Antigoni and not far thence another esteemed about eighteen Miles from Constantinople CHALCIS Ins called Chalcis where we lodged that Night Dr. Covel and I as soon as we set footing on the Island went on the top of the highest Hill to view the others round about it and to see if we could find any marks of the Gold Mines they pretend to be there but instead of them found only Rocks cover'd with Stoecas Arabica Myrtles Arbutus and Cistus Foemina Leidon The Islands that are about it are these Prote and Antigoni North Oxya and Plate North-West called so by the Greeks because the one is pointed the other low and plain South of it are two other little Islands the one called Principe which is the biggest and another little one by it called Epiti in times past Pitys These Islands lie at the Mouth of a Bay called formerly Astacenus Sinus now Ishmit from a Town at the bottom of it bearing now the same name but was called antiently Nicomedia There is a Village
round like That But perhaps it may be a kind of it I observed nothing of the Smell nor did I see the Flower But the Root is hard and woody Near the Town in the High-way groweth Periploca Latifolio in great plenty differing from that which Gerard describeth page 902. only that towards the ground it is of a shrubby Substance We finding Mr Cary as the Doctor thought in a mending Condition but that it would not be possible for him in many days to travel such a Journey we at last resolved to proceed in ours and leave him to God's Blessing and under Him to the care of Dr Covel his Spiritual Physician and the Armenian his Acquaintance and two Men their Servants But not long after we came to Smyrna we heard of his Death not without suspicion of a malignant Distemper brought with him from Constantinople So that Wednesday the thirteenth of October we parted thence but not above a Mile out of Town that Evening to Capligi where are the Baths of natural hot Waters but adorned with noble Structures of Marble over them covered with Cuppaloes of Lead It being Afternoon the time when the Women bathe only the Men in the Forenoon we could not enter into the Chiefest Only into one built by the Piety of a potent Man of the Country with Lodgings to it commodious for the use of Strangers The Basin of which is not great but of Marble and covered with a Cuppalo with Bell-Glasses here and there to let in the Light but not the Air. The Doctor and I concluded That the Water here is much hotter than ours in England it not being possible to be endured without tempering it with cold Water I was surprized the next Morning when I came to get on Horseback that I had no Bridle For not knowing their Custom I had forgot to put it into my Bargain which was three Dollars a Horse to Smyrna But I made our Guide to get me one before I would part thence But as my Companion observeth I learned afterwards in Greece to be less nice For there we were sometimes mounted like Marcus Aurelius in the Capitol without Bridle or Saddle However we parted before it was day and having rid through a plain South-west from this place part being well tilled and part Pasture stocked with Cows Horses and Boufalos a sort of Cattle not much differing from Oxen only they love the Water better and are much worse Meat but labour extreamly well We staid to bait our selves at a little Greek Village but not our Horses for they are accustomed to travel all day without it in Turkey After Dinner we proceeded still through a Country much of the same Nature with that in the Morning only here and there some little Hills that gave us good Prospects of the other parts of the spacious Campagne This day we met with half a dozen of Horse-men which we took to be Robbers and not without reason as we were afterwards informed But with our Janizary we took from Constantinople and the Doctor 's and Mr Bernardiston's Men we were seven of us well armed besides our Guides So that we were not afraid of a greater force than theirs An hour and an half or two Hours we went along not far distant at our left hand a fine Lake as we judg'd it about twenty five Miles long and about seven or eight broad through which the River Ascanius runneth as we then judged and the Lake it self to have been so called also but I rather believe it to be the Rhyndicus RHYNDICUS fl It is sull of little Islands and one good large one on which is a considerable Village of Greeks At last we came to the Banks of the River which here runneth Westwards along which I found the Glycyrrhiza Echinata or Hedgehog Licorice described by Gerard 13â—0 I took notice that it had here a sweet Smell About three or four Miles from the Mouth of the Lake we arrived in about six Hours time to Lubat Lubat is situated on the other side of the River LUBAT that cometh out of the Lake which we passed over to by a Wooden Bridge But there are the Ruins of one of Stone hard by The River is here large and deep and goes hence as they say to meet with the Granicus My Companion calleth it Lupadi But as they pronounced it after the Turkish manner I took it to be Lubat He adding That Nicetas Choniâtes called it in the thirteenth Century Lupadium It hath without doubt been an antient City as the Fragments of Antiquity that lay carelesly up and down every where viz. Pillars Chapters c. or confusedly placed in the Walls do testifie The Walls were undoubtedly built by the Greek Emperours and yet are standing in a square Figure with Bastions every fifteen or twenty paces one Hexagon and the other Triangular But the South-wall Bastions are all Triangular or Cone-fashion I suppose against the Inundations of the River Whether Ferrari calleth it rightly Apollonia I do not determin But I am sure they place this Lake too near the Propontis and this City also on the wrong side of the Lake and indeed are wrong in placing it at all upon the Lake For it is upon the River about three or four Miles after it cometh out of the Lake and about five or six and thirty Miles from Prousa ad Olympum We lodged here at a Greek Fisher-Man's House who presented us with an admirable Carp take out of the River whereof it aboundeth weighing as we judged at least a dozen pound There are excellent Trouts also as the Doctor informed us he had often eaten here Friday the fifteenth we parted from Lubat early making South-wards and after seven Hours riding through the fruitful Plains of Mysia we baited at a Well near a small Village called Shettiqui We were diverted this Morning by a Haga sent as an Inquisitor after the Thieves we met with the Morning before He had at least a dozen of Servants and Friends that waited upon and accompanied him But he seemed to be better prepared to hunt Hares and Partridges than to catch Thieves For he had two brace of Grey-hounds with him and a Hawk He joyned very civilly with us and after some discourse invited us to take part of his Sport which we did he still hunting along our way in the Corn-fields We had good sport both in Coursing and Hawking We chaced three Hares and killed one and had a flight after a Partridge but without success After this he invited us to Dinner with him which our Doctor and Merchant excused being jealous of Turkish Kindness Here I first took notice That the Turkish Grey-hounds differ from ours having their Heads and Ears like a Spaniel but otherwise well made to run After we had baited we pursued our way over several Plains and Hills which often afforded us a most delightful Prospect of Mount Olympus that had now contracted it self into a much less compass proportioned
the fresh Air. Thence we rid a quarter of a Mile further West to a little Hill on which is a Building of white Marble called Saint Paul's Prison I confess the Building is strong enough for the Name consisting of good thick Walls of well-hewen Marble and undoubtedly very antient It is divided into four Rooms and hath but one Entrance But the Convenience of the Place seems rather to argue that it was made for a Watch-Tower than for a Prison For it hath a Prospect over the whole Plain which thence with great delight I viewed and observed the City lying East-wards the Sea West-ward and the River Caister doubling it self into so many Snaky Postures over the whole Plain that it hath made some conclude it to be the Meander who had never seen the true one in Caria Hence I discovered also another small Lake on the Northern-side of the Plain and of the River with some little Hills near it And to conclude here I observed the Situation of all I have hitherto described and with great pleasure marked them on a Paper from which I have transferred them to your view That this River is the Caister is evident by all antient Testimony which the Money of Ephesus confirmeth whereof in several Medals I have seen of the Emperours Valerianus Gallienus and Salonina with two we bought at Smyrna one of which I have 58. and the other Monsieur Spon reserveth are these Letters on the Reverse ΕΦΕϹΙΩΠΚΑΥϹΤΡΟϹ with a sedent Figure representing this River holding a Reed in one hand a Cornucopia in the other and leaning on an Urn pouring out Water But now I am speaking of Medals it will not be amiss to give you an account of some others that we saw and have concerning this Place On some we find that this City was stiled The Chief City of Asia ΕΦΕϹΙΩΠΠΡΩΤΩΠΑϹΙΑϹ as one I have of Herenia Hetracilla the Reverse hath Diana in a hunting posture with her Bow in her hand having shot her Arrow and set her Dog to pursue after the Chace Her Habit is a short Vest to her Knees and Buskins half way her Legs On the Reverse of another of the Emperour Maximinus is Diana in the same posture in a Wood of Olive-Trees But my Companion hath one Medalion where Diana is represented with many Dugs as Minutius Felix observeth that the Ephesian Diana was It is of the Emperour Septimius Severus the Reverse whereof hath a sedent Figure holding another Figure standing up right in his hand made just like many antient Images I have seen at Rome full of Dugs which the Antiquaries call Dea Mammea the Goddess with Dugs and these Letters are about it ΖΕΥϹ ΑΚΡΕΙΟϹ ΠΡΩΤΩΠΑϹΙΑϹ ΕΦΕϹΙΩΠJupiter of the Rocks or Promontories of the Ephesians the principal City of all Asia Which made me believe That this Image held in his hand represented that of Diana which they feigned fell down from Jupiter and was so sacred in this Temple Another there is among Mr Faulkener's Collections which I hope one day to see again in the Oxford Library where the same Figure is joyned with Aesculapius of Pergamus with these Letters about it ΕΦΕϹΙΩΠΠΕΡΓΑΜΕÎΩΠΟΜΟÎΟΙΑ signifying a Confederacy between Pergamus and Ephesus and this was of the Emperour Gallienus When I had seen and considered all this Desolation How could I chuse but lament the Ruin of this Glorious Church To see their Candlestick and Them removed and their whole Light utterly extinguished These Objects ought to make Us that yet enjoy His Mercy tremble and earnestly contend to find out from whence we are fallen and do daily fall from bad to worse That God is a God of purer Eyes than to behold Iniquity and seeing the Axe thus long since put to the Root of the Tree Should it not make us repent and turn to God lest we likewise perish We did intend in our Return over the Mountain to have seen the Passage St Paul cut with his Sword as the honest Peasants tell But we had spent so much time here that we were afraid of losing the way and being benighted on the Mountain among those Robbers that had beset all the ways So we returned the same way we came and left Ephesus about Noon Octob. 6. after little more than a Night and half a Days stay there I remarked both coming and returning that the Brow of the Mountains were covered with Olive-Trees that the Ephesian Plain had much Tamerisk growing about it PLANTS and by the Castle I observed several great Orchards of Apricock-Trees and among the Ruins in the Castle I saw much Ricinus whereof I gathered a good quantity of Seeds Upon the Hill whereon standeth Saint Paul's Prison I sound a Tree-Frog whereof I will speak more at large hereafter as also of a sort of Arbutus the Greeks call Comarea with others at Athens Before we came to the Ionian Plains we repented of our coming from Ephesus that day For it began to be dark and our Janizary to avoid meeting Thieves left the common Road and led us such a private way that he at last lost us in the Dark and it began to thunder lighten and rain as if Heaven and Earth would dissolve And at last we were gotten into such low Grounds among the Moors that we sprang Ducks and Snipes and were in danger every minute to have our Horses laid fast We lighted our Candle and put it in a Lanthorn we carried with us and looked up and down an hour or two for the way but found it not At last we came to a little Hillock of dry Ground covered with Bushes of which with much ado we made a Fire and comforted our selves as well as we could with a Bottle of Smyrna Wine But we pitied our poor Janizary that would drink no Wine with us not had we any Water for him Yet he bore the ill Accident with greater Patience than is ordinary among such People We used all the Arguments we could to perswade him My Comrade as a Physician adviseth him but all in vain He said If he should be sick God should be his Physician But this was not for fear of breaking his Law as we understood afterwards but by reason of a particular Vow he had made which was upon this occasion He used always to have his Cellar well stored with the best Wine of the Country of which he used to drink plentifully himself and entertain the Turks his Friends But particularly once Three of his Acquaintance came to see him whom he resolving to make merry carried into his Cellar to make choice of the Wine they liked best Of which when they grew merry they began to talk of a pretty Young Maid in the Village I of whom they discoursed and drunk so long till they became so valiant at last as to resolve to go and try her Vertue which they executed notwithstanding all the Resistance the House could make and brake into the Maid's Apartment
by better Historians and Antiquaries and proceed on my Voyage to Athens The Ships we had so long attended for our Passage on to Zant were the Dragon and the Dartmouth Frigats Of the first Sr Roger Strickland was then Captain and carried the Flag as Convoy to the London-Merchant and the Owen and David who being laded at Smyrna were bound for London Sr John Temple was Captain of the Dartmouth who with great Civility received us aboard on his Ship and gave us the best Accommodation in it that he could making me his titular Lieutenant for want of his real one whom he left sick in Spain Thursday the seventeenth of November we went on Board which being spent in taking leave of our Friends who most obligingly accompanied us the next Morning by three of the Clock we hoisted sail having a fair and gentle Gale to bring us out of the Bay From the Castle the Chanel is made narrow by the Sands on the North-side But I observed we steered as near the Southern Shore as possible and doing so there is no danger We left Foia Vechia on the right hand in sight and Vourla on the left upon the Cape called by the Turks Calabouroun and by the English Cape Giobernole but antiently it was call'd Argennum Between This and the opposite Shore are two little Islands at the Mouth of the Bay After we were out we passed along the Shore of those high Mountains called The Brothers and in the Evening had the Aleman against us more South But the next day the Wind turning South-West and continuing so for two days we could make no way only boarding between the Isle Scio and Psara till the Twenty first day when with much ado we doubled Psara and having now more Sea room we came in sight of Negropont But the next Bord the Wind blowing extream hard set us back again by the next day within Psara Wednesday the Twenty third was spent in a very great Storm For about ten a clock on Tuesday night from the high Mountains of Scio were poured down such furious Blasts of Wind accompanied with such prodigious Thunder and Lightning as was ready every Moment to over-set the Ship break the Masts and rent the Sails before they could furl them The Seamen were all in a confusion and could not agree what to do whether to lowre the main Sail or to furl it or let it alone as it was But at last they concluded to let it alone and luff as near the Wind as they could and so let her drive It lasted not in this extremity above an hour and half or two hours but blew very hard all Night and the next day But on Thursday Morning it was calm In this Storm we broke the Whip-stock and split the Stem down to the Rudder But the Carpenter soon bound it about with Iron Hoops he had ready for such Accidents It fared not much better with the Merchants and other Ships most of them having rent their Sails But ours being the least it was more tossed than they So soon as it was calm the rest of the Captains went on Board the Dragon to consult what should be done in case of a Separation if the Storm should return They all concluded That if the Separation was made by a South-Wind they should meet at Tenedos if by a North then at Milo After this several days we spent tacking to and fro not being able to make any way until Monday the Twenty eighth the Wind came to the North-East Point and brought us to the Passage between the Islands Andros and Negropont But growing very high near Night they durst not venture among the Islands in the dark especially because of a low Rock in this Passage which might have proved Fatal They resolved therefore to bord it till Morning when we found our selves over against the Passage between Micone and Tine with the Wind fair to pass But the Merchant-men were so far behind and being deep laden so slow that we were forced to lowre our Top-sail to stay for them and so were becalmed within two Leagues of the Passage Some hours after the Wind rose contrary but at night it changed again and brought a most furious North-Wind that drove the Waters into such Heaps as made them seem as if the Rocky Islands of those Seas had broke loose We rent the Mizen-sail from top to bottom and endangered both the Main-sail and Mast and not a Sail left but was forc'd the next day to be changed The Wind abated nothing of its force nor the Sea of its raging making the Vessel often heel so that the Water would sometimes come over the Lee-board We lay as close to the Wind East-wards as possible to avoid the Shores of Micone and Tine as I said and found our selves this Morning drove sixty Miles near Nicaria where the Shipwrack of Icarus gave name to those Seas about it and was no good Omen to us in such extremity of Weather This Morning also we miss'd one of our Ships and could not imagine what Fate it had suffered since it had fared so badly with us Nor was it then time to stay and make search but we passed on South-Eastwards and beyond Nicaria we discerned Samos North-East of us and that day with Wind in poop and Waves often above it we made near an hundred Miles In the Evening we saw Stampalia which we left at our right hand and in the Night with only the Main-sail we made as far as Scarpanto which is an Isle of near fifty Miles about consisting of Hills and Mountains not unfruitful They said We saw Rhodes and we resolved to go round about Candia where I often wished my self on shore to see that Place so famous for curious Plants whose high Mountains where they grow we often discerned And then we were past the greatest danger having Sea-room enough and both Sea and Winds growing more gentle we again recovered our Spirits and were glad that God had so delivered us But we made it seventeen or eighteen days more in all Thirty seven days before we arrived at Zant from Smyrna which was on Christmas-Eve or the Twenty fourth of December old Style which the Greeks yet continue to observe as well as the English Here also we found the Owen and David which we feared had made shipwrack the Night she was separated from us But by God's help she passed well between the Islands and arrived hither fifteen days before us So we all at last came safe to our desired Port and welcomed one another giving God the Praise as it is most just we should for the safety of each moment his good Providence secureth to us But more especially for such eminent and extraordinary Deliverances for we truly had seen God's Wonders in the Deep and had experience of his Mercy towards those that go down to the Sea in Ships employing themselves on the great Water-flouds Then had we great reason to call to mind Holy David's
Valley is but narrow being bounded by the Mountain Corax South-West and by the Ridges of Parnassus North-East and after eight or ten Miles riding from Sea this Valley brought us by Noon to Salona Salona is situated upon a Rock in the inmost Recess of this Valley under a high Mountain Northwards SALONA or AMPHISSA unto which Parnassus stretcheth out a Ridge on one hand as also does Mount Corax on the other On the top of this Rock is the Castle and about it is the Town The number of Christians and Turks here are about equal It is a Bishoprick subject to the Metropolitan of Athens and the Greeks have here six Churches The Reverend Bishop I saw upon my return from Athens at the Covent of Saint Luca. The Turks have seven Mosques But no Jews are permitted here Their Trade is in some Cotton but chiefly in Tabaco of which fifteen Okas are worth but one Dollar An Oka is a weight with them of about Forty two Ounces We saw nothing remarkable of Antiquity here only a Roman Eagle well cut in Marble Some have thought this to be the antient Delphos as Niger and Baudron from him But because this agreed not with the Idea we had of the Situation of that Place we made strict enquiry whether there were no old Stones with writing upon them about the Town and at last we heard of one at a Church on the side of the Mountain a quarter of a Mile above the Town which we went up to see The Church is called Sotiros Metamorphosis being dedicated to the Transfiguration of our Saviour But the poor Pappa seeing us come in our Turkish Habit was so frighted that he ran and hid himself among the Rocks But we unwilling to lose our Labour of climbing up so high for nothing sent our Greek to seek about for him and to assure him we were Christians and not Turks and that we came only to make our Stauroma or Sign of the Cross in his Church which is a Ceremony of the Greek Worship whereby they worship God when they come into their Churches and distinguish themselves from Turks and Jews the Enemies of Christ's Cross Upon this first his Wife came forth who called her Husband and soon confirmed him that we were Christians both by our Words and Behaviour When he had opened the Church he shewed us a large Stone upon the Pavements full written in Latine which we copied although the Letters were ill engraven for the V Consonants are form'd like the Old Greek Y and the Latine it self corrupt as you see DECIM SECYNDINYS YC PROCONS CYRAT IT DEFENS AMFISSENSIYM SALYTEM YT MEMINI NON REPYRGARI MODO AQYAED YCTYM YERYM ETIAM INDY CIA QYAM IYSSERAM CONFES TIM IGITYR IN YETERES CISTER NAS AQYA YT SEMPER CYCYR RERAT INDYCATYR GRATIA S AGENTE BEATITYDINI TEM PORIS ET MODERATIONI ME EHE SPERO QYOD FYNDYS QYI AQYAM PYBLICAM OCC YRAYIT PYBLICYS NON FIT SA .. NE SI SIMILIS INTERCEPTIO ITE RYM FIERI POSSIT IN CISTERNIS ID SIS LAPIDEO TITYLO POSITO YN DE AQYA YENIAT ADSCRIBITE Y T NYLLA INYADENDI PYBLICYM RELINQYATYR OCCASIO NEMO RESERITIS PERFACTAM A .... OMNIA ANTE DIEM DECIMY M KALENDARYM IANYARIA RYM YOS AD OFFICIYM NYN TIARE DEBERE OPTO BENE YALEATIS The Substance of which being the Copy of an Epistle sent by the Roman Proconsul Decimus Secundinus and addressed to the Inhabitants of Amphissa written there Amfissa in which stiling himself their Curator and Defendor he commands them to repair their Aqueducts and to bring the Publick Water into its old Ducts and Cisterns which shall have over them in writing upon Stone from whence the Water came that so the publick Right be by no means invaded and that it should be kept from none when done and that all this should be finished before the Calends of January This put it out of question that Salona had been called in former times Amphissa and not Delphos And besides the Situation of this Place agreeth exactly with what Pausanias and Strabo have said concerning Amphissa which Delphos does noâ— We requited the Pappa with some Timins who would needs make us taste of his White Wine which was exceeding good so with great satisfaction we returned By the way we came to a Fountain which our Guide assured us had a Stone written at the further end for it went in a good way under ground like an Aqueduct We were in hopes to have found here the Inscription that was commanded by the Proconsul to be written and set up as is abovesaid But my Comrade found it not although he went with a Candle up to the Knees in Water to seek for it Amphissa was the chief City of Locrii Ozelorum Strabo saith That in his time it was destroyed or lay waste But Pausanias who was after him describeth its Temples and other Buildings and Monuments Moreover our Inscription which is of later Date shews it to have been again inhabited It had its Name from the Nymph Amphissa with whom Apollo had to do and her Monument was the chief Ornament of the Town Next to which that of Andremon and his Wife Gorga had the Preheminence Minerva had a Temple in the Castle which is the same the Turks now have and her Image was thought by the Inhabitants to have been brought from Troy But Pausanias a great Judge in these Antiquities thought it rather from the Rudeness of the Work to be of Rhoecus and Theodorus of Samos his doing who first taught the Art of Founding Metals but were not accounted the most excellent Workmen Here was also a Temple of the Anactes Protectors of Infants that some take to be Cabires others Castor and Pollux others the Dioscouri or Curetes viz. those that looked unto Jupiter when he was an Infant And indeed it would be a wonder could they accommodate all their Gods to be the same under so different Names Stories Birth-places Sepulchers and Circumstances when from their different Names they were all rather to be judged different Persons proper Names being usually the same in all Languages with some small difference We heard of no such Place as Lambina which Niger takes to have been Amphissa and believe it to be another of his Errours This night we lodged with a Greek called Georgaki Andreno We had a Letter from Signior Samuel of Lepanto to a Turk called Mahomet Basha sirnamed Tunisino from the Place he came from But he not being at home a Relation of his sent us to an honest and merry Greek who made us all the welcome he could and provided us a Supper not ungrateful to our travelling Stomachs But we had like to have over-sawc'd it with Wine for out good Host would not let the Bowl stand still it being the Greek Mode to make the Cup go round without ceasing Nor was it Manners on our side to refuse it or call for Wine out of our turns Being now well assured that Salona was
not Delphos but the Amphissa of old we enquired of our Host whether there were no antient Ruins of a Town in our way between this and Livadia He told us That there were many at Castri a Village about mid-way So we spake with several Janizaries to conduct us thither and thence to Livadia and Thebes But not agreeing upon the Price we took the Brother of Mahomet Basha and parted very early next Morning For Monsieur Spon's going into the Water at the Fountain above the Town had made some of the Turks to murmur and to suspect us to be Spies A little way from the Town we foorded a Brook which joyns with the other Stream in the Plain but are both near lost in watering them before they come to the Sea After a Mile or two Riding we looked about and saw another Janizary following us of those we had spoken to over night which we were resolved to keep also thinking until we were better acquainted with the Country we could not be too secure So we were now eight strong viz. our two Janizaries our Greek our three Hagoiaties or Guides who were the owners of our Horses Monsieur Spon and my self We soon began to mount the Ridges of the Mountain Parnassus by a very bad rough way South-Eastwards until we arrived in four or five Hours time at Castri CASTRI DELPHOS which we no sooner approached but we concluded that it was undoubtedly the Remainder of the famous City of Delphos Lib IIII. Fig V. Mount Parnssus Castri or Delphos is situate on the South-side of the Mountain Parnassus something inclining to the West not on the top nor at the foot of the Mountain for it hath a great way to the Plains of Crissa below it and much more to the Mountains above it The high Cliffs in sight above it from the Town seem to end in two points whence I judged it was call'd of old Biceps Parnassus For it hath many more tops and much higher than these being a very great Mountain But these two tops seen from Delphos hide all the rest Between which the Water falls in great abundance after Rain or Snow and hath worn them almost asunder There is also a Fountain with a very plentiful Source of Water continually issuing out from among those Rocks just under that Separation which by the Marble Steps descending to it and the Niches made in the Rock for Statues above it CASTALIA should be the Fountain Castalia that so inspired the antient Poets It s Stream falleth down Southward a very deep and narrow Precipice where it soon joyneth with the River Pleistos separating Mount Cirphis from Parnassus whence it runs by Crissa Southwards and falleth into the Bay of Salona West and North-West likewise Delphos hath a Descent but not so steep Northwards it is backed with the double-headed Cleft of Parnassus But that no Doubt might remain but this was Delphus we found several Inscriptions bearing that Name in antient Greek Characters of which this Fragment I brought with me and is now at Oxford is one ΤΥΧΑ ΔΕΛΦΟ ... .. ΑÎΓΙΑΤΡΩÎΑ .... .. ΩÎΙΟ ΕΥΔΩΡΩΠ.. .. ΑΡΚΟΥ ΒΟΙΩΤΟΙΣ .. ΤΑÎΑΓΡΑΣ ΑΥΤΟΙΣ Ι ΕÎΓΟÎΟΙΣ ΠΡΟΞΕ ΠΠΡΟΜΑÎΤΕΙΑΠΕΛΙΑΔΑΣ ΥΛΙΑΠΠΡΟΕΔΡΙΑΠΠΡΟΔΙΚΙ ΑΠΕΠΙ ΤΙΜΑΠΚΑΘΑΠΕΡ ΔΕΛΦΟΙΣ ΑΡΧΟÎΤΟΣ ΘΟΙÎΙΩÎΟΣ ΒΟΛΕΥ ÎΤΩΠΣΩΠΟΔΟΡΟΥ I need not tell you what this Place was in antient times All the World knows how famous Delphos hath been for the Oracle of Apollo there consulted for so many Ages together But it s antient Glory is now vanished and it remains Great at present only in the Writings of the Antients Before we entred within the Compass of the former City we observed several Grottoes cut in the Rocks with several Partitions as we conceived to bury the Dead as believing that the antient Sanctity and Respect had to this Place would not permit to bury the Dead within the Walls no more than at Delos the other famous Oracle of Apollo Mounting a little higher by a way cut out of the Rocks we entred through a Passage where we thought the antient Gates might have been from whence we saw the Town of Castri hard by and descending thence a little further we went into a Church on the right hand called St Helias where we found the last and some other pieces of white Marble with Inscriptions on them At the Door of this Church is another great Stone with some Lines of an Inscription which we copied as well as we could and where I thought that I read the Name of Delphos again This seems to be the Place most likely for the Temple of Apollo to have been situated in although now no Remains of it are to be found only Pausanias saith That it was in the upper Part of the City It is true there is a Rock yet higher North-West of this beyond the Stadium But there is no room for such a Temple to be built there nor any manner of antient Remains on it but where this Church is built the Ground lieth higher than the rest and square having the Foundations of a Wall built of hewen Stone and towards the Descent of the Hill supported by Buttrices but towards the way-side even with the Ground Not far from this are several Antient pieces of Walls with arched and old vaulted Places A little further on the left hand of the way is the Place where a Stadium hath been and some of the Degrees yet remain of white Marble It is much less than that of Athens although both had the same Founder viz. Herodes Atticus The Stadium hath the high Rock I last spake of at one Corner West of it towards which are several Grottoes and Caves hewn out of it I suppose for Sepulchers as well as those we saw coming into the Town This way led us a little more forward by an easie Descent to the Inhabited Parts of Castri and we alighted at a large House that served for a Kan or Place of Entertainment to Passengers This Town consists of not above Two hundred Houses and those very ill built The Turks are not above a dozen in number and have one Mosque The Greeks have five or six Churches and seem very good People though poor and were very civil to us The little Trade they have is in Cotton and Tabaco and their Wine is exceeding good Castri belongeth to a Timar called Abd-Haga who liveth at Salona Timarlicks are a kind of Fee-farms that belong to the Grand Signior and those that hold them of him are obliged to serve him in the War according to their Revenue After Noon we went through the Town to the Fountain we knew to be Castalia by Pausanias his Description of it who coming the way contrary to us to wit from the Gymnasium and Boeotia wards left it at his right hand It is just in the Cleft of the Rocks as I said before hanging over it with a high Precipice In this Rock above the Fountain is a kind of little
he built there Lycoria They call it now as my Companion saith Liacoura I understood it Hiliocoro and should have thought my self mistaken by the Article 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 but that he who told it me gave me the Reason of its Name viz. because it shines so bright afar off like the Sun which they call Hilios adding the Termination Coro to make it signifie the the Village of the Sun However it be both the one and the other retains still something of the sound of the old Name On this Top of the Mountain Pausanias saith it was that the Thyades sacrificed to Bacchus and Apollo inspired with a sacred Rage We came to the foot of this high Top through a large Valley of about four or five Miles compass and rested our selves at a Fountain they call Drosinigo It hath one of the plentifullest Sources of Water I ever saw and is much to be wondred at considering the height we were yet from the plain Ground For although this is a Valley in respect to the Tops of the Mountains all about it much higher than it yet is it a Mountain in respect of Delphes and Delphos a Mountain in respect of the Plains of Crissa Yet the Source of this Fountain boileth up continually a foot Diameter and near a foot high from the Surface of the rest of the Water and presently maketh a little River which goes and discharges it self into a Lake made by it a quarter of a Mile distant South-East of it in the Plain The Water of the Fountain Drosinigo is as good and cool as that at Delphos Parting from this Fountain we kept along its Stream until we came to the Lake which we still kept on the right hand of us till we came to the Eastern end of it We could find no Passage for the Water out of it but one being a Hole pierced through a great Rock at the East end which is backed with a high Hill We perceiv'd no Water then to run through the Passage whereby it used to run being stop't with Dirt and Bushes But there was a sufficient sign that it used to run when the Lake through the melting of Snow or rains is fuller of Water And I believe its ordinary Passage is deeper under the Gravel or at least through it For they say It appeareth again below Delphos and the Place with the Rivulet it makes they call Scizaliza Were it not for such Subterraneous Passages as these the whole Valley would soon be filled with Water until it ran over the Tops of the Rocks down upon Delphos And possibly it might be one natural Reason of that Deluge or Flood in Deucalion's time and that he could save himself only upon that highest Point of Parnassus called antiently Lycoria For indeed I esteem this Mountain not only the highest in all Greece but one of the highest in all the World and not inferiour to Mount Cenis amongst the Alpes It is seen very plain from Corinth But I cannot with my Comrade esteem it eighty Miles distant unless it were to be measured by Land over the Mountains and Valleys For Mr Vernon who took the Latitude both of Corinth and Delphos placeth this in Thirty eight Degrees fifty Minutes and the other in Thirty eight Degrees fourteen Minutes so that the difference is only Thirty six Minutes Latitude And for the Longitude it is the same it standing directly North of Corinth which I took with a Compass in the Castle of Corinth So that by the common Calcule of Degrees and Minutes it cannot be above six or seven and thirty Miles off in a direct Line But there are such high Mountains and deep Valleys between as may make it near as much more for ought I know But it is seen so plain from thence that if it had the advantage of being separated from other Mountains I doubt not that it would be seen further than Mount Athos Rambling up and down the Rocks to look over and have a good Prospect in which I still took great pleasure I came at last to a place where I could look down the most prodigious Precipice I ever saw between this and Mount Cirphis 1. PLANTS Here I saw Common Savin grown up to a good large Tree Mr Mercant thinks it to be the Lycian Cedar But I could find no difference either in shape leaf or smell from the Common Savin save only in the height and bigness of the Plant. 2. White and Yellow Crocus grows wild here all over the Plain 3. Poterion Plinii I found here also it differs but little from Tragacantha being something smaller 4. Another which Mr Merchant calleth Polium Gnapholides I rather believe it to be an Holostius Montanus For the Stalk is joynted about which it beareth its downy Leaves in Rundles 5. Ilex Chalmifera After this I returned and came to the Brink of the Mountain South-Eastward which we descended by a dangerous and steep way and in two hours arrived at a Village called Aracovi or Racovi RACOVI or ARACOVI which is about midway down on the side of the Mountain This Village consists of Greeks and Albaneses only no Turks but a Sub-Basha that governeth them and hath no Mosque in it but several Churches The chiefest and best is the Panagia or the Church of the most Holy Virgin the others are dedicated to St George St Demetrius and St Nicolas beside some small Chapels The Women here wear round their Faces small pieces of Money and likewise round their Neck and Arms Their Hair combed back and curiously braided down their Backs at the ends of which hang Tassels of Silver Buttons The rest of their Habit is a loose Vest of White Woollen They are all Shepherds and Shepherdesses who feed their Sheep on the Mountains We were lodged at a Greek's House called Barba-Demou who treated us civilly only he was hard put to it to get Provision for so many of us Barba is a word the Greeks as well as the Italians use for Vnkle but do also give it to antient Men in honour to them In one Church we found some Fragments of Antiquity viz. of Marble Pillars and Corinthian Capitals which made us think that this was a Place of some Antiquity My Companion judges it was that antiently called Amphryssus or otherwise Ambrysus But he must pardon me if I am not of his Opinion For I can neither find it to agree with Strabo nor Pausanias who place Amphryssus a great way distant from this Racovi For Strabo describing the Maritime Places of Phocaea not of the Corinthian Gulph as Lawrenbergius and others seem to understand him and having spoken what he thought fit of Anticyrrha and the Promontory Pharygion comes at last to speak of Mycus Portus and says of it That it is the last of the Phocaean Harbours and lieth under the Helicon and Ascra adding withal That Aba and Amphryssus are not far from that Place After which he beginneth to give an Account of the Mediterranean
have others of their own which I could not be permitted to see and some that belong'd to the Arch-Bishop of Athens An Evangelistary I bought written in Capital Letters but as to the Age I hope to give a better Account another time They eat all together in a Hall round which are long Tables of white Marble where they sit according to Seniority and at the upper end is a little one where the Hegoumenos sits alone in a Chair They have several Offices and Ceremonies before and after Dinner At that after Dinner I was present when I returned this way and is thus When all have dined and are risen before they depart the Room there is a piece of Bread brought in a dish and a cup of Wine set upon the Hegoumeno's Table which by Prayers he seems to Consecrate like the Sacrament and then brings it round the Hall first the Bread of which every one breaketh a Crumb as they stand ranked from one end of the Hall to the other on each side Then the Wine is brought in like manner and every one drinketh of it round After which some Prayers and Thanksgivings are said and then every one departeth to his Cell The next day after Morning-Service the Hegoumenos carried us into a kind of Buttery as I may call it and made us breakfast with him with Bread and Honey and Olives good Wine and Aqua Vitae He told us then amongst other things That the Ambassadour of France Monsieur De Nantuille was there several days and would fain have had the Roman Mass said in their Church But they told him It was a thing they could by no means grant it being contrary to their Rites But he yet pressing them they at last absolutely refused it letting him know that if such a thing should be done they could no more say their Liturgy in that Church At which the Ambassadour was very much offended being a great Zelot for the Roman Church who made it his Business every where to perswade the Greeks that their Belief is the same with the Latines some few Punctilioes only excepted But they then had had no News of the Council held by the Patriarch and some of the Bishops by his contrivance and the Doctrine of Transubstantiation was altogether unknown to them as I before said There was then a young Father that spake very good Italian being a Native of Zant He was our Interpreter and when we parted with the Hegoumenos he carried us to see their Provisions of Wine and Olives which they preserve in the longest Casks I ever saw several of them I measured near twenty foot long Olives pickled are their great Sustenance in Lent which are not pickled green as in these Parts but when they are full ripe and full of Oyl They eat them with Vinegar being very nourishing and wholsome Food and very grateful to the Stomach There is an Hermite that liveth a Mile and half off whom I saw not this time but when I last came that way the April ensuing we went to his Hermitage THE HERMITAGE descending from the Convent down the Hill Southwards first passing a little River in a pleasant Plain well planted with Vineyards and Olive-trees and among them little Houses where the Caloyers come sometimes for Recreation in the Summer After this we mounted up by a steep Rock by an easie Ascent in a way cut out of the Rock and large enough for two Carts to pass by one another on the top of which we discerned the antient Ruins of a Castle and a Town This I believe to be that Pausanias calleth Bulis in the Confines of Phocis and Boeotia seven Stadia or almost a Mile from the Port for there is a Harbour about the same distance from the Place and was without doubt that which Strabo calleth Mycus Portus the last Port of the Phocaeans beyond which the Rocks of Mount Helicon did hang over as indeed they do there Near this Harbour the Convent hath a Metochy or Farm and in the Harbour they fish and lade the Corn they can spare to transport it to the Neighbouring Parts Thence we turned to the left hand upon a Ridge of craggy Rocks about half a Mile which brought us to the Cell of the Hermite The Hermitage is situated upon the South-East-side of a Rock and is a little House with a pretty Chapel or Oratory at the upper end of a large Garden most pleasant by Nature without much Assistance either of Cost or Art It is only hedged about with such Shrubs and Bushes as the Soil beareth the upper side which is fenced by the Rock only excepted But Nature is here profuse in curious Plants of which I gathered about half a hundred that grow not ordinarily in England in and about the Garden Of which I shall defer to speak till I come to Athens because I saw most of them there again with many others Something below his House descending towards the lower side of his Garden is a Fountain of very good Water and beyond that a River that runneth down from the high Cliffs of the Helicon making a natural Cascade at such a convenient distance that it affordeth great Pleasure to the Eyes without the least Offence to the Ears until at last with all the murmurs of Applause a Poet in his most charming Contemplations can fansie it passeth by this happy Place where Peace and Innocency seem to dwell far out of the reach of the Hate or Flattery of inconstant Fortune to which even those Rocks and the vast Stones that lie in its Channel seem to comply and while Men seem dumb make their Praises mount aloud to Heaven A prodigious height round about one discovereth the Helicon's white Tops still covered with Snow which this poor Hermites aged Head seemeth in epitome to resemble He followeth the Steps of St John Baptist in the Wilderness not cloathed in Hypocritical Rags but with a decent long Garment of a brown Hair-colour dyed of that hue with the Skins of Wallnuts and not much differing from the rest of the Caloyers But his Life is most severe His ordinary food is Bread and Herbs and his drink Water and that only on Sunday Tuesday Thursday and Saturday Sometime upon Saturday Sunday and great Holy-days he will eat a little Honey and Bread but hardly ever drinketh Wine but that of the Holy Sacrament The time that he spendeth from his Devotions he employeth in writing Books of their Liturgies He hath a Companion or Servant that doth him all necessary Offices but useth not such severity as himself His employment at spare time is chiefly in making Crosses which he carveth with admirable Curiosity The Work is hollow and so fine that it is beyond Belief and hath represented upon it the principal Parts of our Faith as the Nativity Annunciation c. but especially the Death and Passion of our Saviour For one of these I offered Ten Dollers but he would not part with it hearing we
ΑΡΙΣΤΩΠΦΙΛΟΚΡΑΣΙΟΣ This Town was celebrated in old times for the Oracle of Trophonius which was in a Cavern in a Hill I rather believe it was in that above the Town than that Monsieur Spon mentions and we saw in a Rock a Mile distant North of it when we parted thence to Thebes But Pausanias indeed is not so clear as might be wished by reason of his long Digression Nevertheless one may collect it being he saith That the Trophonian Grove was by the Fountain of this River Hercyna And I observ'd where the Water issueth out in greatest abundance it was made up with Boards just in the Corner under the Castle without doubt to cover some dangerous Cavern And Pausanias saith This Oracle was in the Mountain above the Grove so that it must be that above the Town if that were the Fountain Hercyna of which there is no doubt By Pausanias his Description one would believe that the Hole on the Top of the Hill reached to this at the Bottom For those that entred it to consult the Oracle were to put their Head and Knees in such a certain place and posture and were suddenly carried down as by a Vortex or Whirlepool of a most swift River This might easily be so done by stopping the Water at the Bottom until it rose very high and then letting it go of a sudden But he that went to steal the Treasure there had not so good a Preparation for it prov'd a Trap to him by which he broke himself to pieces and was taken up another way as Pausanias informs you All these things want good Search and Examination and are not easily to be found out by Travellers that stay but a little while in a Place unless we should suppose them to have so many of the antient Greek Authors almost by heart There were publick Games instituted in honour of this God Trophonius of which notwithstanding none of the â—â—tients speak unless Julius Pollux who mentions only that these Games took their Name from Trophonius Yet that they were celebrated in this Place viz. at Livadia we found by a Stone at Megara erected in honour to one who amongst the Prizes he had gain'd in other Places had won these also at Livadia We found an Inscription wherein there seems to be a Town of this Name ΤΟΙ ΙΠΠΟΤΗ ΛΕΒΑΔΕΙΕΩΠΑÎΕΘΙΑΠΤΡΕΦΩÎΙΟΙ .. ÎΠΑΞΑÎΤΕΣ ΙΠΠΑΣΙÎΠΑΜΒΟΙΩΤΙΑ ΙΠΠΑΡΧΟÎΤΟΣ ΔΕΞΙΠΠΟΣ ΑΥΚΡΑΤΕΙΩ ΕΙΛΑΡΧΙΟÎΤΩΠΑΡΙΣΤΩÎΟΣ ΘΡΑΣΩÎΙΩ ΕΠΙΤΙΜΟΣ ΑΥΚΡΑΤΕΙΩ But therein they are written ΤΡΕΦΩÎΙΟΙ if I have copied it right of which I am not so well assured as to be positive The Game Pamboiotia is here mentioned which Strabo and Pausanias say was celebrated in the Plain of Coronaea by or in the Temple of Minerva Itonia where all the Boeotians assembled for that purpose January the Twenty fifth we parted from Livadia about eleven in the Morning and about half a Mile out of Town being come to the top of a little Hill being a small Ridge of Laphystius we had the Prospect of a spacious and fertil Plain encompassed with Mountains but not very high if compared with those of Parnassus and Helicon It is stretched in length from Livadia South-East near twenty Miles and in breadth is as much comprehending the Lake and Marshes which take up near half of the North-East side of it This Lake was formerly called The Lake of Copais but now Livadias Limne or The Lake of Livadia and not Stivo-lago meaning I suppose Thiva Limne as our Modern Maps make it For that is another Lake that was formerly called Hylica palus Of all which I shall have more to say in the Last Book We left the Lake Copais at a good distance on the left hand and kept still streight forwards under the Mountains on the right hand South-Eastwards which I suppose were the Mountains Tilphusium and Laphystius I observ'd six good large Streams crossing our way and running Northwards towards the Lake which may be Ocaled Tilphusa Lophis Olmens Coralius and Permessus mentioned by Pausanias and Strabo There are many little Villages up and down in this Plain some Vineyards a great deal of Corn-ground and Pasturage well stock'd also with Sheep and other Cattle But it is very much subject to Inundations upon great Rains or melting of the Snow from the Mountains which is no wonder having no Passage above ground for the Water out of the Lake but only that into Hylica palus which also lieth so high that the greatest â—art of the Plain must needs be drowned before the overflowing Water would find a Passage that way the ordinary Passages out of the Lake being under ground About fourteen Miles from Livadia we past by a Village on our left hand called Charamenitis and about an hour before night another which they call Diminia that is to say Two Months because the Corn there is sowed ripe and reaped within the space of two Months the Floods of the Lake not permitting them to sow before April and it being Harvest-time with them by the beginning of June By this Town is a Rock on the Top of which appear the antient Walls of a Town My Companion thinketh it may be Onchestus but I think it rather Coronaea for Reasons I have elsewhere given Here is a Fountain that riseth at the Foot of the Rock which makes the Stream Coralius In half an hour thence we came to Megalo-molci where we lodged in an indifferent good Kan Molci signifies properly Farms belonging to the Grand Signior where those that inhabit are no other than his Servants and Workmen This is a large square Court composed of little Houses for those that either labour till the Ground or attend the Cattle where at night they retire to lodge These seem badly to imitate the Roman Colonies with this great difference That those had still some great Priviledges granted them but these are all Slaves The next day we parted thence by Sun-rising and within half an hour came to the South-East end of the Plain bounded by a little Ridge of a Mountain that runneth out from Mount Phoenix on the left hand and another on the right I believe was Libethrius As soon as we got on the Top of this Hill we began to see Thebes at the further end of another Plain East North-East of us and behind us we had the Hill by Livadia West North-West This Plain is now called Thivas Cambos and in old time to the same effect the Theban Plain It is bounded with Hills and Mountains and is much less than that of Livadia The Northern Bounds of this I take to be the Mountain Phoenicius from Strabo which Pausanias seems to call Sphinx or Sphingius mons That on the right hand or the Southern Bounds of this Plain I know not how it was antiently called but is a Ridge of the Mountain Libethrius which is the same of the Mountain Helicon and is the same that separates the Plain of Thespia from the Plain of Thebes I observed a Torrent run
which Pliny in the Thirtieth Book of his Natural History calleth Phengites and saith It was found in Cappadocia in Nero's time who built a Temple of it to Fortune which was Light when the Doors were shut By reason of its Natural Transparency an obscure Light passeth through it and several Holes being made deep in it it makes the Light look of a reddish or yellowish colour But as to its shining in the Night that 's a Wonder was never heard of until now and for his comparing it to the Brightness of a Carbuncle it may pass for one of his Hyperbolies our Eyes being much too dim to discover it This same Author hath made many other Observations whereof we could find but very little or no probability as the Inscription on this Temple To the unknown God the Turks Pilgrimages to it with several others not worth mentioning and hardly to be excus'd from the Imputation of manifest Untruths On both sides and towards the Door is a kind of Gallery made with two Ranks of Pillars Twenty two below and Twenty three above The odd Pillar is over the Arch of the Entrance which was left for the Passage It being now turn'd into a Mosque the Niche of the Turks Devotion is made in the Corner on this side of the Altar on the right hand by which is their Place of Prayer and on the other side a Pulpit to read their Law in as is usual in all Mosques The Turks according to their measure of Wit have washed over the beautiful white Marble within with Lime At one side of the Quire there are four Presses made in the Wall and shut up with Doors of Marble They say None dares open them and that one undertaking to do it immediately died the first he opened and that the Plague soon after followed in the Town The Marquess of Nantell would have it attempted the second time but the scrupulous Turks would not permit him They think there is some Treasure there perhaps there may be some Church-Vestments Books or Plate belonging to the Altar which now in the poor Greek Church is seldom much above a Chalice and a small Silver Plate They shewed us the place where two Orange-trees of Marble had stood which being taken thence to be carried to Constantinople the Vessel miscarried with them The Roof over the Altar and Quire added to the Temple by the Greeks hath the Picture of the Holy Virgin on it of Mosaick Work left yet by the Turks because as they say a certain Turk having shot a Musquet at it his hand presently withered This Temple was covered outwardly with great Planks of Stone of which some are fallen down and are to be seen in the Mosque They have built a Minoret or tall slender Steeple out of which they make a Noise to call People together at their set times of Prayer day and night On the top of which I mounted and had a most pleasing Prospect of the Cittadel City Plain and Gulph of Egina with the Coasts and Harbours round about But i durst not stay long to enjoy the sight for fear of being seen my self and taken for one that had other designs than of meer Curiosity After some small while therefore descending we left the Temple of Minerva having first made a Present of some few Timins to the Turk who had been so civil to permit us such a free and fair Examination of all the Mysteries and Rarities of it Going therefore some way further TEMPLE OF ERICTHEUS amongst the Buildings and Ruins on the North-side of the Temple of Minerva we came to the Temple of Erictheus It is known to be that by two Marks out of Pausanias First Because he saith It is a Double Building one bigger than the other as this yet remains The lesser one by which the Entrance is to the other is Twenty nine foot long and Twenty one foot three inches broad The bigger is Sixty three foot and a half long and Thirty six foot broad It s Roof is sustained by Ionick Pillars chanelled but the Chapters are something different from any I have seen of that Order and seem to be a kind of mixture between it and the Dorick Order The other Mark is that as Pausanias saith There is a Well of salt-Salt-Water in it which he makes no wonder of because there are many such in Inland Places a great way from the Sea as at Aphrodicaea in Caria c. All that he thinks worth writing of it was That it made a noise like the Waves of the Sea when the South-Wind bloweth We could not have permission to go into the Temple to see it because the Turk that lives in it hath made it his Seraglio for his Women and was then abroad But we were assured That the Well is now almost dry On the South-side of the Temple of Minerva we saw some antient Ruins where are to be seen some Statues of Women in the Walls which my Comrade thinks may be the Graces which Socrates hath made there Because Authors expresly say That although the Graces used ordinarily to be represented naked yet Socrates made his to appear cloathed as these here are 'T is like also here was the Temple of Minerva Poliades that is Protectrice of the City and the Temple of the Nymph Pandrosa but no Remains of them are now to be seen As soon as we were come out of the Castle THEATER of BACCHUS we turned on our left hand and came to the Theater of Bacchus just as Pausanias describes it under the Southern-side of the Castle upon the rise of whose Rock were the Seats of the Spectators which comprehend some Degrees above a Semicircle whose Diameter as Consul Giraud measured it by the French Foot is Two hundred forty three foot and as Mr Francis Vernon in his Letter to the Royal Society by the English Foot is Two hundred sixty three I was prevented from taking all its Dimensions exactly because I heard the Turks from the Castle were very angry with the Consul for doing it so that I only paced it and found the whole Body of the Scene Ninety one Paces of which the Seats take up Twenty five on each side of the Scene and the Scene it self Forty five The Scene is oblong jetting out six Paces more forward in the Front than the Seats of the Spectators Lib. V. The Arca of the Theator of Bacchus The antient Seats are ruined but some distinct Distances appear shewing where they have been The Semicircular Area below the Seats and the Scene are filled a good height with their own Ruins and that which appears best preserved against the Injuries of time is the Front looking towards the Sea where three Ranges of Arches remain one above another The uppermost were no doubt for Windows and to let in the Air but the lowermost could not reasonably be thought so because they were probably even with the Ground being now part covered under Ground without and perfectly buried
because speaking of Eridanus out of Callimachus There are as they say indeed saith he those Springs of pure and potable Water without those Gates they call Diochorus near that side of the City where the Lycaeum is Not far from which some Body built a Fountain well furnished with good Water which if it now remains not though antiently full of Water clear and fit to drink as being chang'd and corrupted in succeeding times what wonder is it And even Pausanias himself if rightly understood doth not call that other River Eridanus That which he saith is 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Ilissus saith he and another River of the same Name with the Celtick Eridanus which falls into the Ilissus are the Rivers that glide to the Athenians And not as the Translator of Pausanias saith Amnes in Atticâ nobiles Cephisus in eum cadens Eridanus Where he hath mistaken Attica for Athens and given those Streams the Title of Eminence without Pausanias his order That Eridanus falls into the River Ilissus is very properly said of this Stream of Cyrie Jani but not of the other For the other is a much larger Stream still well supplied with Water lies much lower than Ilissus or this and runs in a streight Line within its own Chanel although sometimes divided by Art And Ilissus being little more than a Torrent may properly be said to fall into that on the West side of the City but not that into Ilissus This only of Cyriani can be properly said to fall into the Ilissus because it riseth much higher than it Neither can that other River be so properly said to belong to Athens as these it running two or three Miles from it out of Town But these most properly because they ran by the Walls and from their Springs it is evident the Town hath still been served with Water as the Remains of Hadrian's Aqueduct and Cistern of Waters under Anchesmus and the New Aqueducts under ground to the Town do manifest If any have better Reasons for the contrary Opinion I shall be glad to see them and submit to them but till then I shall suppose this of Cyriani to be Eridanus and so call it in my Map Going down the Stream along the Ilissus beyond the Stadium and Pillars of Hadrian is another little Marble Building now dedicated to Panagia or the most Holy Virgin and as some will have it was antiently the Temple of Ceres and perhaps they may have their Reasons too of which I am yet ignorant But Pausanias seemeth to joyn that to another Temple at the other side of the Town coming in by the place Ceramica But this Author is not altogether so regular in his Descriptions of Places as it might be wished This Church hath been painted formerly according to the Greek manner that is with no great Art but is now quite defaced Descending yet a little further by the River some Rocks seem to stop its Course whereby the Water begins to appear again and settle in a kind of Pool upon the Rocks In great Rains I judge the Water in the Pools overflows but while we were there it was dry Weather and did not but finding some Subterraneous Passage by or under the Rocks after a little way it breaks out again and makes a Fountain Which we supposed to be the Callirrhoe of former times or rather the same which in Pausanias is called Halirrhothium because the Inhabitants of this Place give unto this Fountain a Name in sound not much unlike unto it calling it Calliro But this I confess I know not how to justifie by the Authority of Pausanias although he speaks of that Fountain three several times The Turks after their Mode have accommodated two Fountains to this Spring I take Calliro or Caliro to be only an Abreviation of Galo Nero signifying Good Water Supposing Callirrhoe to be at another Place of which I shall have occasion to speak before I conclude this Account of Athens Hard by this are some Turkish Gardens and a Summer-house belonging to one of them inhabiting in the Town Below them on the further side of the River is another little Temple on the top of a small Rock But to which of the Gods it was dedicated in times past I see nothing to inform me At present it is consecrated to the Holy Virgin and they call it Hagia Maria that is Saint Maries Near to this passeth the way that leads to Capo Colonni Lib. V 4 Fig. praaesderites Quadriga Triumphahs in qua Vir togatus Beyond this the Chanel begins to turn Westward MUSAEUM and so bends its course until it passeth between two Hills the North-most of which lyeth West-South West from my station on Mount St George and hath the minoret of the Mosque or Temple of Minerva in the same line between and is not far distant from the Castle This was the Hill called in times past the Musaeum from the Poet Musaeus Disciple of Orpheus who there used to recite his Verses My Comrade saith He hath an Inscription that makes this Musaeus the Son of Eumolpus whereas Suidas makes Eumolpus the Son of Musaeus and Musaeus the Son of Antiphemus but that there was indeed another Eumolpus Grandfather to Musaeus and Descendants often took the Names of their Ancestors That Marble tells us also That his Sepulchre was at the Port Phalera But Paufanias says He was buried here when he died of great age The Inhabitants call this Hill To Seggio and some Francks The Hill of the Arch of Trajan from a Monument of Antiquity upon it where indeed something is to be read touching that Emperour but not any thing to justifie that naming of the place It is a Structure of admirable white Marble and no less curious Work built a proportionable height something circular In the middle was a large Niche with a Figure of Marble sitting in it and under his Feet in great Letters ΦΙΛΟΠΑΠΠΟΣ ΕΠΙΦΑÎΟΥΣ ΒΗΣΑΙΕΥΣ Philopappus Son of Epiphanes of Besa a Town of Attica On the right hand of this is another square Niche with a sedent Figure within having these Letters under it ΒΑΣΙΛΕΥΣ ΑÎΤΙΟΧΟΣ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΟΣ ΑÎΤΙΟΧΟΥ King Antiochus Son of King Antiochus On the left hand we judge was another Statue to make up the Symmetry of the place but now fallen down Between the two Statues upon a kind of Pilaster part of the Work we discerned another Inscription which I climbed up to read whilst my Companion copied it It is in Latine and says thus much Caius Julius Philopappus Son of Caius of the Tribe of Fabia Consul Frater Arvalis chosen among the Praetors by the most good and August Emperour Caesar Nerva Trajanus who conquered the Germans and Dacians This explains what Pausanias doth but obscurely mention saying In the same place the Athenians had raised a Monument in Honour of a certain Syrian who was without doubt this Philopappus For although he is here nominated of Besa a Village of Attica yet had his Original
from Syria which may be concluded as well from his Name Antiochus common to all the Kings of Syria and out of respect to them generally assumed by others of that Nation as also by the Statue of Antiochus at his right hand as one of his Illustrious Ancestors whom the Athenians honoured and owned for their great Benefactor as appears by their naming one of their Tribes after his Name ΑÎΤΙΟΧΙΔΟΣ As to his being named of Besa he could not have the Honour of being a Citizen of Athens without being inrolled in some of their 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or Towns belonging to their Tribes So that his being qualified of Besa in the Inscription hinders not but he might be a Native of Syria In a Relieve below the cornish of this is a Triumphal Chariot carrying the Consul in it with Figures before and after That his Name is not among the Roman Consuls upon the Consular Tables my Comrade thinks to be because he was only Consul Suffectus or Designatus and died before the other Consuls year was quite out Odeum Lâ—L V. From the top of the Musaeum there runs a ridge of Rocks descending Westwards AREOPAGUS Upon the Brow of which regarding the North are the Foundations of a Building supposed to be the Famous Areopagus of Athens For Pausanias although he is short in the Description puts it on this side of the Town Without doubt it is either that Building or the Theatre called The Odeum For Pausanias begins his Description as coming from Pyraea and first within the Gates mentions the place Ceraunicus then after the Regio Portico and Tholis he comes to the Odeum the Fountain Henneacrene Temples of Ceres and Fame Afterwards he begins again above the Ceramicus and the Regio Portico passing along from thence to the Temple of Vulcan and then to the Portico called Pocile thence to the Gymnasium of Ptolomy and by it to the Temple of Theseus which also is in this quarter of the Town over a little Hill North of this therefore whatever it was in old time it now remains thus It is situate upon the brow of that Rock that hath the Turkish Burying place North and North-East the Theatre of Bacchus and the Castle more East with a little Valley between The Foundations are of vast Stones cut in a point like a Diamond and built in a semicircular Form whose Diameter may be about an hundred and forty ordinary paces but the two Radii meet in an obtuse Angle on the back part of it which is entirely hewn out of the Rock In the centre of those Radii is cut a square place higher than the rest of the Area behind which are steps to go to the top of it being about a mans height high On each hand of that are Seats to sit on near the length of the Radii This is taken to be the Tribunal of the so much celebrated Areopagus and the Benches on each hand the Seats of the Senators But if perchance this should have been the Odeum or Musick Theatre as De la Gulitier seems to make it in his Design though he calls it the Theatre of Bacchus which is more evidently false than surely this Tribunal and Theatre was built for the Poet Baies to sing his Verses on and might be called instead of the Tribunal of the Areopagus the Thymelaea or Proscenium c. and instead of the Ranks of Senators who sat to give mature Judgments in cases of great difficulty those Stone-benches were made only to serve a Chorus of Fidlers so ridiculously hath time and â—ill fortune masked and deformed the Grandeur of ancient Times and Places Descending hence Northward you pass over a little Valley and the Turkish Burying-place then mounting again and leaving the Theatre of Bacchus at the West end of the Castle on the right hand you get to the top of a little Steep though Hill or rather a ridge of little Hills descending from the Rock of the Castle Being on the top I remembred one thing which my Companion I find takes not any notice of It is a Fountain accommodated according to the Turkish mode with one or two Cocks of water I have considered the situation of the place and do believe it to be a Spring For I remember when I went first up to the Castle I would have tasted of it but the Consul told me the water was not very good to drink but was used by the Turks for other ordinary occasions in the Castle I am sure there are no Aqueducts to bring water so high the Turks seldom or never using so much as Leaden Pipes or if they did they would not bestow so much cost to procure themselves bad water when they might have good so much cheaper from Mount Hymettus My opinion is That this is that only Spring in the Town that Pausanias speaks of near the Odeum saying There are many Wells in the Town but only one Spring which was called Henneacrene because the water issued out by nine several Spouts and was thus adorned by the Tyrant Pisistratus This in another place he mentions only by the name of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or Spring coming down from the Acropolis-wards to the Temple of Apollo and Pan near the Propylaea or outward Gate of the Castle He mentions it a third time to this purpose Going to the Castle saith he by the Theatre of Bacchus is the Monument of Calus c. But the Temple of Aesculapius is worthy to be seen for the many Statues and Pictures of him and his Children in which is a Fountain near which they say Halirrhothius the Son of Neptune lay with Alcippa the Daughter of Mars and was therefore slain by him which Murder gave occasion for the first Judgment to be given on Capital crimes All these places evidently mark out the Fountain we speak of Again after he had spoken of the Temple of Pan and Apollo by way of connexion he adds 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which his Translator turns not well Quae verò Vrbis regia Areopagus dicitur c. For so he seems to break the thread of Pausanias his Description Sylburgius therefore corrected him well translating it thus Secundum hoc est ea Vrbis pars quae Areopagus dicitur About by or near which place is that part of the City called The Areopagus making this good conjecture perhaps saith he from the nearness of it to the Hill of Mars For from this Fountain as I said runs the ridge of a Hill from the Castle North-Westwards and might well enough be called Mars his Hill on which that Region of the City was built that bears Mars his Name being called Areiospagus or the Village of Mars Pausanias further adds That in this place there were two Senates or Councils The one was the Senate of the Five hundred to whom belonged the Judgment of all common and ordinary matters The other was the Senate of the Areopagites only where they judged of Capital crimes
There is also another Ruin on the North-side of the Bazar of Brick-work which looks like part of some Temple or a Roman Bath This Town is governed by such Officers of the Grand Signior's as other great Towns of his Empire are that is to say by a Caddi a Veivode and Haga of the Castle From the first of these we had a Summons at our return Home to our Lodging to appear before him and give an Account of our selves and of our Curiosity For we had been observ'd to take the Measures of those Pillars and to be very observing of the Place But the Caddi so soon as he understood by our Druggerman that we were English shewing him our Consul's Patent from the Grand Signior to travel where we pleased he told us The English were Friends of his Emperour 's that we were therefore welcom and might go whither and when we pleased This Caddi is counted to have at least three hundred Villages under his Jurisdiction But these are little better than so many Farms up and down the Plain between them and Sicyon of which the Veivode 't is thought hath the greatest share of the Profit When it was known how civilly the Caddi had used us we obtain'd Leave to see the Castle with less difficulty by the Mediation of a couple of Dollers to one of the four Haga's whose turn it then was to command the Castle We went thither on Horse-back it being a good hours work to get up to it from the Town for it is a Mile thence to the foot of the Hill and thence a very steep way up with many Windings and Turnings before one arrives at the first Gate The 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as the Castle was antiently called is situated upon a very high Rock having a great Precipice round about it but not so deep on the South-West side where the Entrance is For thence runs out a Ridge of the Hill two or three Miles Southwards in the Morea And from thence it was that Mahomet the Second made his Assault when he took it from the Venetians after fourteen Months Siege that side of the Castle being the only place where it is pregnable The first Gate we came to is plated with Iron where we were made to alight to go in on foot This side of the Rock is well covered with Houses For not only those who still reside there as well Turks as Christians have their Houses and Families there but for the most part even those that dwell below in the Town have Houses also in the Castle where they keep all their best Goods safe from the frequent but very uncourteous Visits of the Corsairs and hither upon the least Alarm they come flocking with all they can bring with them The Houses below being either Houses of Pleasure belonging to Turks of Quality or such as have been built both by Turks and Christians for the greater conveniency of Trade and Business There are abundance of Cisterns for Water hewn into the Rock and some Springs especially one which is toward the Southern-side of the Hill which was called in times past Pyrene being the Place where Bellerophon took the Winged Horse Pegasus as he was there drinking There are three or four Mosques in the Castle and five or six small Churches but most of these ruined The Catholica is kept in repair but is a very mean Place for such an Ecclesiastical Dignity In it we saw two old Manuscripts of the Scripture divided according to the usual Readings of the Greek Church and two Liturgies of St Basil which we took to be very antient because written upon long Scrolls of Parchment rouled upon Rolls of Wood as Books used to be in antient times whence they were called in Latine Volumina We observed moreover That these Liturgies differed from those ordinarily printed at Venice and used in their Churches both in the Substance and Ceremony But as to the Two Epistles written to this Church by St Paul we had but little Account and as little of their Zeal to his Doctrine as antiently Under the Walls of the Castle towards the Town is a little Chapel hewn out of the Rock and dedicated to St Paul Whence when they rally or speak with reproach of any of that Quarter of the Town they usually tell them They are of the Race of the Mockers and those that laught at St. Paul's Preaching Of whom it is reported when one of them received the Sanctified Bread from the Hand of a Priest according to the manner of their Liturgy That he almost bit off the Priest's Finger and after that running mad finally hang'd himself upon the Point of a Rock that is over that Chapel And the truth is the Christians here for want of good Instruction and able and faithful Pastors to teach them run daily into Apostasie and renounce their Religion for the Turkish Superstition upon every small Calamity and Discontent that happens to them and this not only among the common People but even the Priests also of which they say There were three sad Examples not long before our being there Lib VI. P 459 pa 442 CORINTHUS ET AB EIUS Acropoli Prospectus From the first Gate we mounted yet higher and came to a second which is well and strongly built with two Towers on each side of it This Wall I guess to be about two Miles in compass having some Houses inhabited but many more ruined within them The two principal Points of the Rock are inclosed in them also On the one situated South-West of the other is a Tower built and on the other being the highest Point a little Mosque To the Top of this last we mounted and had one of the most agreeable Prospects this World could give us On the right hand of us the Saronick Gulph with all its little Islands strowed up and down in it to Capo Colonni or the Promonterium Sunium Beyond that the Islands of the Archipelago seemed to close up the Mouth of the Gulph On the left hand of us we had the Gulph of Lepanto or Corinth as far as beyond Sicyon bounded Northward with all those famous Mountains of old times with the Isthmus even to Athens lying in a row and presenting themselves orderly to our view This with all the little Skill I had I designed and wished my self a better Master in that Art that I might have given you a more perfect Idea of it the Particulars I observed are these that follow The Promontory by Sicyon now called Basilico where the Gulph of Lepanto turneth bears North-West by North. The Foot of the Mountain Cirphis or the Promontory Cyrrha now called Tramachi North North-West The Promontory Anticyrrha now called Aspropiti with the Bay of the same Name and beyond it the highest Point of Parnassus now called Heliocoro covered with Snow North. The Foot of the Mountain Gerania dividing the Gulph into two Bays the one making the Bay of Corinth on this side and the other making the
are watered by the Rivulet Ornea running down from the Mountains that bound this Plain South and South-Westwards and from thence I believe runs into the River Nemea which we past about mid-way by a Bridge This River then was not very considerable but after rains is poured down from the Mountains in such abundance that it fills many Channels on each side of it which before were dry In our way we passed by many little Villages and arrived at Basilico after three hours riding Basilico or as some call it Basilica was in old time a great City called Sicyon When the Kingdom of the Morea was under the Tenetians it was a considerable Town now it is but a heap of Ruins and Inhabited only by three Families of Turks and about as many Christians This final destruction one of the Inhabitants told us happened about twenty years ago by the Plague which they held to be a Judgment of God upon the Turks for profaning one of the Christian Churches there turning it into a Mosque by Command of the Vaivode who fell down dead upon the place the first time he caused the Alchoran to be read in it whose Death was followed soon after with such a Pestilence as in a short time utterly destroyed the whole Town which could never since be re-peopled It is situated upon a Hill about three Miles from the Gulph of Lepanto and hath the River Asopus running under it on the East-side on which are some Powder-Mills as they told us which are the first I ever saw in Turkey There remaineth abundance of Ruins both ancient and modern The Wall of the Castle many Churches and some Mosques and a good way off the Castle Westwards is a Ruin they call the Kings Palace which seems to be very ancient but made of Bricks I take it to have been a Bath from the many Chanels down the Wall to bring Water Beyond that at a good distance is a Hill formed Semicircular I believe by Art and to have been a Theater or Stadium There are also abundance of Caverns and Vaults in the ground which we could not stay to examine with any exactness but returned part of our way towards Corinth that Evening and lay at a little Village about midway The next Morning we passed along the shore by several little Lakes and the ancient Port of Corinth called Lechaeum now quite choked up We left Corinth about two Miles off on the right hand and went two or three Miles further to a Village they call Heximillia where we spent the rest of a wet day because we could not reach to Megara that Night nor was there any where to lodge at in the way This Village is called Heximillia because the Isthmus at this place is six Miles wide The next day we came early to Megara and the day following to Athens The Plants I took notice of and gathered in the Isthmus are these 1. Sea-Pines with small Cones 2. Wild Olive-Trees 3. Lentiscus grown to the bigness of Trees 4. Much of the Horncod-Tree or Keratia 5. A Tree called by the Greeks Kedros It is very like Sabina baccifera but here it groweth to an extraordinary bigness tall and streight up like a Tree But I could perceive no difference between it and Sabina Baccifera besides For the Berries and green of both are alike 6. Cedrus Lyciae part of whose Leaves are like Sabina Baccifera and part like Juniper 7. Scabiosa argentea petraea or Silver-colour'd rock-scabious It is a little shrub with long and narrow silver-colour'd Leaves the Flowers I saw not 8. Aristolachiae Clematitis Species Of which before 9. Linaria Latifolia Valentiana Clusii It is a kind of Toad-flax with broad Leaves and the Flowers are of several Colours Blue Yellow and White which look very beautiful 10. Androsemum Vmbelliferum of which before 11. Scorzonera rotundâ radice as before Before I quit Attica I shall here insert another Journey I made to the Promontory Sunium although I did it another time after my Camerade and I had parted in Greece that what I have to say of the Attica may be together Consul Giraâ—d and a Merchant of Micone were so kind to let me have their Company We set out in Easter-Week and resolved to take Port-Raphti in our way to which our Road lay directly Eastwards from Athens We passed by Mount Saint George on our left hand about a Mile and made towards the end of Mount Hymettus which we left on the right hand about four Miles from Athens About six Miles from Athens we saw on the left hand a Village called Agopi where beginneth the Plain of Mescigia which is all that Tract of Land that is between Hymettus and Promontorium Sunium called in times past Paralia and was the Portion of Pallas another of the Sons of Panthion â—e came and Dined at a little Cell belonging to the Covent Kyriana called Metochi which signifieth a Farm where some Caloiroes live to Husband their grounds After Dinner we took Horse and continued our Journey until we came to Porto Raphti which is esteemed eighteen Miles from Athens But I do not believe it above fourteen or fifteen PORTO RAPHTI The Bay that maketh this Harbour is situated on the Eastern shore of Attica and hath the highest point of Mount Hymettus Northwest by North. The Southern Promontory of Negropont East It is divided into two little Baies by a sharp point that runneth into the middle of it and it hath two little Islands or Rocks towards the Mouth the biggest of which lieth East South-East off from the middle point and giveth the name to the Harbour from a Colossian Statue of White Marble representing a Taylor cutting Cloth which the Greeks call Raphti These secure the Port against all Winds coming from the Sea so that it is not only a secure Port but they say so convenient that hardly any Wind can blow but Ships may both go out and come in with the same I believe this Port was anciently called Panormus from whence the Athenians were wont to fail to Delos to carry the Mysteries of Apollo sent down through all Greece from the Hyperboreans Here are also the Ruins of a Town upon the shore which was the Town called anciently 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Prassae being the Harbour where in former times twenty Sail of the Issadâ— join'd with the Roman Fleet when they were called to help the Athenians against Philip King of Macedon We turned a little to the right hand thence and after we had rode about six Miles further we came to a Village called Marcopoli MARCOPOLI The Ruins hard by it shews it to have been a considerable place in old time but now it hath not above twenty or thirty Houses remaining Perhaps it was anciently the Town Aegilia of the Tribe of Antïoch Strabo calleth them Aeginenses but Meursius corrects him out of Suidas and Stephanus In some ruined Churches I found a few inconsiderable Inscriptions upon Pillars and
one we should have judg'd this place to have been Oropus had not the true Oropus so well preserved its ancient name I take the Hill by it to be that called Cerycius Mons in more ancient times And the Town to have been Tanagra so much spoken of and described last on the River Asopus by the ancients It was called first Paemandria after that Graea and Tanagraea as Pausanias but now Scamino Thence it is about three hours riding to Negropont in the way to which we passed by a Village called Dramish DRAMISH inhabited only by Fishermen and within three or sour Miles of Negropont a Port called yet Megalo Bathy MEGALO BATHY or Vathi of which Strabo takes notice by the same name signifying Portus Profundus Near this there is another small Bay called Micro Bathy MICRO BATHY and lastly there is a large Bay which hath two narrow Entrances one on this side and the other at the City making the famous Streight of the Euripus This Bay hath good Moorage all over and was the famous Port Aulis in times past where all the Grecian Fleet assembled to go against the Trojans But of the Town Aulis we observed no remainder although it was for certain near Chalcis now called Negropont by the Francks where we arrived in very good time and went and lodged at the House of one Gioseppe Rosso formerly a Slave of Malta but now bears the Character of French Consul there Negropont is called by the Grecians Egripos NEGROPONT EGRIPOS EVRIPUS as well the City as the Island which is very probably a corruption of the word Evripus which the Greeks would pronounce Evripos making the V after another Vowel sound as the Latines and we do the V Consonant and sometimes like an F or Ph. But the barbarous name by which the Italians and we from them call it hath no foundation for it but the ignorance of the Language For there is no such thing as a Black Bridge over the Euripus for them to call it Negropont from it Perhaps they might hear the Greeks say 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or is ton Egripon or short Ston Egripon from which sound they might accommodate Negripon or Negroponte or the like to their own Language as is ordinary for both Francks and Turks to do of the Greek names as I have often noted The City Egripus then is upon or hard by the place where Chalcis stood formerly that is on a Peninsula of the Island anciently called Euboea and is there separated from Boeotia by a narrow streight which is passed over first by a small Stone-Bridge of four or five Arches to a little Tower built by the Venetians in the middle of the Chanel from whence to the Town is a Draw-Bridge no larger than to let a Gally pass thorough The Walls of the Town are not above two Miles about But there are more Buildings and People in the Suburbs of the Christians beyond than in the City where only Turks and Jews inhabit The Turks have two Mosques within and two without where the Christians have also their Churches The City is separated from the Suburbs by a deep Ditch and the Inhabitants of both may amount probably to fourteen or fifteen thousand people There are six or seven Families of the Francks among them and a Seminary of Jesuits who pretend to be there only to teach their Children but withal to do as much service to the Romanists as they can This is the chief residence of the Captain Basha or General of the Turkish Fleet who is Governour both of this City and Island and the Adjacent parts of Greece having a Keiah or Deputy under him A Fleet of Gallies still lie here to be ready upon all occasions to go out against the Pyrates and those of Malta His Palace is without the Town upon the Shore North-East off the Bridge Fortified only by the Gallies fastned to the shore above it His Brother Achmet Basha lives in the Town at the Palace which was the residence of the Proveditore of the Venetians before this Island was taken from them by Mahomet the Second This is situate on the shore on the Eastern-side of the Bridge and therein we were shewed some Vaults with secret Passages to go out with Boats to the Euripus where the Proveditore of that unhappy time of the Family Erizzo endeavoured to escape but was discovered by Spies taken and most barbarously put to death by that Cruel Tyrant and Enemy to Christendom His fair Daughter Signora Anna though she had an equal share of her Fathers unhappy Fate yet thereby purchased to her self such Glory as is worth many times the dying for For she being courted to his Bed by the offers of the Empire of the World by the lure of Crowns and Scepters to tread on to be made shine with all the glittering Jewels of the East scorned and contemned them chusing rather the bloody Ponyard than all that dazling Grandeur with the impious and foul Embraces of that Incarnate Devil her Fathers Murderer Insomuch that Mahomet being enraged to see his Lust his Glory and his Power so mightily opposed and defeated by the Virtue of a tender and weak Virgin drew out his Cimiter and in his Fury hewed her all to pieces Her Memory is Sacred among the Venetians and highly deserves to be Enroll'd among Glorious Martyrs On the Walls of this Palace we found an Inscription bearing date MCCLXXIII which speaks of a work then begun in the Month of May 409. Years ago and Dedicated to the Honour of God and St Mark the Evangelist by the Illustrious Nicolas Miliani Baiul of Negropont and his Counsellers Michael of Andros and Peter Navaiarius My Comrade thinks this was some Chappel but I rather believe it was this Palace it self †ANNO AB INCARNATIONE DNI NRI IHV XPI MILLE CCLXXIII MES MAIO HOC OPVS FEC INCHOARI NOBIL VIR DNVS NICOLAVS MLLIANI BAIVL NIGROPONTIS ET EIVS CONSI LARIIDNI MAHEL DE ANDRO ET PETRVSNAVAI ARIO IN HONORE DEI ET BEATI MARCI EVAG By the Water on the same side of the City is an old Castle where we were shewed among other great Guns several Mortar-pieces of such a prodigious Bore as are capable to fling Stones of two Foot and three Inches Diameter Egripo is a place very well serv'd with all manner of Provisions at very low rates Mutton is scarce worth a penny a pound Kids and Goats flesh not above an half-penny Fish will not sell for more than a Farthing the pound Wine is about two pence the Crondriry that is about our Wine-Gallon Here also they make Sweetmeals of all sorts of Fruits Quinces Pears Plums Nuts Wallnuts and Almonds for Sugar they use Wine boil'd to a Syrup and make them grateful enough to the tast yet I believe they would hardly please some of our nice Ladies unless perhaps because they were far fetch'd We should be extreamly to blame Of the
Ebbing and Flowing of the Euripus if we had not endeavour'd to inform our selves as much as possible concerning the wonderful Ebbing and Flowing of the Euripus so justly admired in all Ages for one of the great wonders of the World Our stay here was not long enough to observe all the various changings of its Tydes our selves But I shall give you the best account of it I can from the Informations we had from the Inhabitants and other ingenious men that have resided long there and not content my self to tell you only that it kept its Motion according to the Tydes of the Ocean the two days I staid there and observed it The most exact account of it we had from the Jesuits and that confirm'd by the Millers who have Mills on it and therefore by long experience and observation should know the truth best They all agreed that its Tydes were sometimes regular and sometimes irregular according to the different times of the Moon But the Reverend Father Babin writ all the particulars of his Observations in an ingenious Letter to his Friend the Abbot Pecoil at Lyons which I will not undertake wholly to transcribe but in short give you the sum of them as followeth First he observeth that this Ebbing and Flowing is perceived ten or a dozen Leagues off on each side of the streight in several little Bayes along the Shore by the rising and falling of the Water Secondly That its course may be considered as it is in divers times For it is regular eighteen or nineteen dayes every Month or rather every Moon and eleven dayes irregular or spoiled according to the terms they use at Negropont to explain this wonder of nature It is regular from the three last dayes of the old Moon to the eighth of the New The ninth it is irregular and continues so till the thirteenth inclusively The fourteenth it recovereth it self again till the one and twentieth exclusively when it begins again to be irregular until the twenty seventh as it will be more easie to understand by the following Table A TABLE OF THE Flowing and Ebbing of the EVRIPVs according to the Days of the Moon New Moon 1. Regular according to the Ocean  2.  3.  4.  5.  6.  7. Second quarter 8. Irregular having 12 13 or 14 Flowings as many Ebbings in 24 or 25 ho.  9.  10.  11.  12.  13. Full Moon 14. Regular as the Ocean having two Flowings and two Ebbings  15.  16.  17.  18.  19.  20.  21. Irregular Last quarter 22.  23.  24.  25.  26.  27. Regular as the Ocean  28.  29. The dayes that it is Irregular it flows and ebbs eleven twelve thirteen and sometimes fourteen times in the space of four or five and twenty hours as the Father saith he hath observ'd himself and was assured by those that keep the Mills and see the Wheels of them change very often every day according to the different course of the Water The Tyde therefore changeth here not only seven times a day as the ancients did report but a great many times more For he saith he staid at one time an hour and half and saw it change his course three times although the Wind blew pretty hard against it In these days the rising of the Water is about half an hour and the falling about three quarters But the days that it is Regular it observes the same Rules according to the Moon as the Ocean and Venetian Gulph doth that is to say that in four or five and twenty hours it hath two Flowings in and as many Ebbings out loseth near an hour every day and is six hours mounting one way and as many going back the other way Thus it doth Winter and Summer in high Winds and calm Weather The differences he observed between its both Regular and Irregular Tydes and those of the Ocean are these The Euripus at High Water riseth ordinarily but a foot or little more and very seldom reacheth to two feet Whereas the Ocean in many places on the European shores riseth eighty Cubits high although in the Isles of America he observed it to rise no higher than in the Euripus The second difference that he observ'd was that the Ocean when it Ebbs retireth towards the full Sea and when it flows or riseth higher it runs towards the Coasts But the Euripus observes another Rule For its rising Water is when it runs towards the Isles of the Archipelago where the Sea is greatest and its Falling or Ebb when it runs towards Thessaly that is Northwards Between the Ebbing and Flowing of Euripus is a little space of time wherein the Water seems to stand still insomuch that Feathers or Straws cast on it cannot be perceiv'd to move in calm weather upon the surface of the Water all these Observations this ingenious Father assures us he often made aboard the Vessels lying in the Harbour where he had liberty to do it when as often and as long a time as he pleased He proceeds also to make an ingenious Discourse concerning the Opinions of the ancients touching Euripus and the causes of its various and irregular Motions for satisfaction herein I refer my Reader to him adding only that I observed the Chanel of the Euripus here maketh such a turn that its course from the Bridge runneth South-South-West which is towards Attica and the Islands of the Archipelago and the other towards Thessalonica and Constantinople North-North-East On Monday the sixth of March 1676. we left Egripo and arrived at Thebes after about six hours riding In the way we passed over an indifferent high Mountain about two Miles from Egripo TYPOVOUNI MESSAPIUS MONS called now Typovouni But I believe anciently Messapius Mons. From the highest place in the passage over it we observed Egripo East by North. The furthest part we could see of the Island Euboea North and the way to Thepes which was before us South-West About midway we left another Hill on our right hand which I believe was anciently called Teumessus but the present name thereof is Asomata ASOMATA so called from a Monastery of that name situated on it though in old time it had Micalessus either on it or very nigh unto it By it I also observ'd the passage over Typovouni was East-North East and Thebes in a streight line before us West-South-West Proceeding a little further we crossed a small stream that I guess was called by Pausanias Thermodon which he saith passed by the Mountain Hypatus lying towards the River Cephisus part of which passing formerly through the Theban Lake came this way taking Thermodon along with it about two hours riding off the right hand The next day early we parted from Thebes and came to Livadia in the Evening by the same way we had done before to Thebes from Livadia when we first came into Greece The next day we parted
fair Plain stretched out a great length to the North-West and South-East and is in breadth to the Seawards at least half a dozen Miles The Sea here maketh a large Gulf between the firm Land and the Island it being the Sea of Locris as may easily be gathered out of Strabo and the most Northern Promontory of Euboea appearing from thence as lying North-North-East This Plain should be well tilled and peopled from the many Villages which from this prospect appear strewed up and down upon it CNEMIS Mons. The more Northern part of this Mountain should be Mount Cnemis from whence the Locri of this Country were called Locri Epicnemides But the Southern side of it which seems to be but a Ridge of the greater Mountain and runneth along between the Lake of Libadia this Plain and the Sea is more likely hereabouts to have been called Cirtonum mons CIR TONUM Mons. Hence also beyond this Gulph Northwards a great way off I discovered vast high Mountains cover'd with Snow which I took to be the famous Olympus of Thessaly Descending this Hill into the Plain there is a little stream coming out of it which to me seems to be the ancient River Platanius which of old separated Boeotia from Locris at the Town Hala as Pausanias affirmeth and Strabo seems to intimate where after having spoken of Anthidon the last Town of Boeotia on that shore as Homer makes it he says that nevertheless going further there are two other Towns viz. Larimna by which the River Cephisus runneth into the Sea and going yet further this Hala bearing the same name with those of Attica The place is corrupted as the Learned Casaeubon observ'd but I wonder he did not observe where the mistake lay For the Copists have written 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 instead of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as is evident out of Pausanias and the very place it self For Strabo having before spoken of two Towns whereof Larimna was one why should he put 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in the plural number for the other Town without adding its proper name But Strabo adds also 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which demonstrates that he wrote 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and not 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 of which name there were two Towns in the Country of Attica But undoubtedly both Larimna and Halai here mentioned belonged in more ancient times to the Locri Opuntii as may be easily shewed out of Pausanias Being descended into the Plain we kept the Mountain on our right hand and in about half an hours riding more we came to a Town situated on the brow of it THALANDA called Thalanda This is yet a large Town and hath been incomparably greater in ancient times as the Ruins for about a Mile out of Town and the many old Churches and Towers that stand far above it on the Hill do manifest It is much too big to be taken for the Village Hala that Pausanias places on the right hand of the River Platanius upon the Sea shore bearing the face of the Metropolitan City of a Country which if I understand Strabo aright can be no other than that famous City Opus of the ancients which gave name to the Country and Sea before it LOCRI OPUNTII SINUS OPUNTIUS ATALANTA viz. Locri Opuntii and Sinus Opuntius My Reasons for it are these First The distance that Strabo placeth it from the Sea which is about two Miles or fifteen Stadia But the little Island that he speaks of before it called then Atalanta but now without a name puts it out of question And thence I guess the Town that now is hath borrowed its present name time and so many Ages intervening having devoured its first Letter A and new-modelled the rest after the Greek pronunciation For they write it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 but pronounce it Thalanda T. after N being still pronounced like D. And as to the Town Halae it might have been at the Mouth of the River which in its course may bend more Eastwards and so make the bounds of Boeotia and Locris all that fruitful Plain between Thalanda and the Mountain Knemis INEMIS was in all probability that 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the happy plain of which that Author speaks This Town may contain five or six thousand Souls of Greeks Jews and Turks and is a Bishoprick subject to the See of Athens My Guide being alone with me was so timerous here that he would not go up and down the Town as in other places we had used to do for fear we should be taken for Spies So that as to what particulars of Antiquity remain here and might have been observ'd by us had we used our wonted liberty I can at present give no account We parted hence the next Morning Eastwards still under the Hill The Plain growing now more and more narrow between the Sea and the Mountains in which manner it held us about two hours riding until we came to a little Bay into which there runneth five or six large Streams They run from under the Mountain hard by and turn four Mills under the Wheels not full thirty Yards from their Sources They come out from the Lake of Livadia hard by the Town of Polea which is on the other side of this Hill by the Lake as I was afterwards informed From thence our way lying South-Eastwards was rough up-hill and down-hill until about Noon we came to a Town called Proscina upon the same Hill PROSCINA This Town consists of about an hundred Houses of Christians for the most part and seems an ancient place being very probably that which in Strabo's and Pausanias his time was called Acraephium or Acraephnium ACR AEPHNIUM which was situated upon the Mountain Ptoos After Dinner we mounted again up higher according as our Road lay over a well-cultivated Country on the Hills which I doubt not but in old time made the Plain of Athamas nor can the Wooded Hills above them be thought to want chace more now than they did of old After three hours riding from Proscina we came to the other side of the Hill to many of the Subterraneous Passages of the Lake of Livadia into the Sea KATABATHRA which they call Katabathra and Catabathos our way hither lying still South These Subterraneous or rather Submontaneous Passages of the Water may very well be reckoned amongst the greatest Wonders of the World to accomplish which both Art and Nature seem to have been so industrious that it is hard to determine unto which of them we ought to give the glory of the work For here Art seems to excel nature and yet the greatness of the work is such that it seems no less apparently to excell the power of human industry Therefore since our Modern Writers are upon this matter wholly silent and from the ancients so slender an account of it is come down to us as is altogether unintelligible I shall be
the more particular in my Observations of it and shall give the best account of it I can Which that I may do to be the better understood I shall first give an account of the situation of the Lake and the Plain in which it is stagnated and then of the several Passages out of the Water of the Lake into the Euboean Sea This Lake is now called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the Lake of Livadia but by Strabo Copais and by Pausanias Cephissis It is situate on the North-side of that large Plain which is call'd by the same name of Livadia which is stretched out between the Plain of Thebes and the Town Livadia the whole Perimeter of which Country and Lake is so encompassed with high Hills and Mountains so joined one to another that there is not so much as space for the many streams and torrents that arise under and fall from them to pass out above ground into the Sea So that had not the Wisdom of the Creator provided at several places certain subterraneous Passages as Chanels to receive and suck in the Waters which in so great abundance at times do flow and pour down these Mountains and were not those Chanels either by nature or art and industry of men kept open and cleansed all Boeotia must necessarily in a short space of time be drowned and made nothing but a great Lake or standing Water For beginning first at Parnes that Mountain is join'd to Cithaeron Cithaeron is join'd to Helicon Helicon to Parnassus Parnassus to Mount Oeta that to Cnemis Cnemis to the Cyrtonum Mons That to Ptoos Ptoos to Messapius Messapius to Cerycius and that again to Parnes Which Mountains although all or most of them be well enough distinguished from each other by certain Chasms or Openings between them yet are they all so tacked and link'd together by High-Grounds that before the Waters could find Passage any way into the Sea above ground the whole Country below them must unavoidably be drowned which perhaps was one great reason of Deucalions Flood in which these parts seem chiefly concerned But beside this Circle of Mountains that encompass all Boeotia Phocis and great part of Locris there are other Mediterranean Mountains also which are tacked to one another in such sort that they divide the whole Country into several particular Vallies which from a high prospect look as if they were those places in the Earth the Gyants laid open when in their War with the Gods they plucked up Mountains by the Roots and set them upon one another intending to scale Heaven thereby For so is this Plain of Livadia divided from that of Thebes Eastward by the Mountain Phoenicius or Sphingis which joins Northwards to the Mountain Ptoos Southwards to certain Ridges which descend from Helicon From those high Mountains Helicon South-West Parnassus and Oeta North-West are poured down those quantities of Waters into this Plain which stagnating make the great Lake of Livadia by falling towards the Ridge of the Rocky Hills of Thalanda or Cyrtonum Mons against which the whole stress and fall of the Waters seems to lean but are by them as by a mighty Mound or Bank kept in from discharging themselves into the Euboean Sea Strabo counts this Lake no less than three hundred seventy one Stadia in Circumference which amounts to about forty seven Miles and a half But I believe it covers not so much ground at present For then in his time it had one passage out above ground into Hylica palus now called the Theban Lake But now the Waters are far lower than that Passage and therefore are to be thought very much abated The form of this Lake is long being stretched out under the Mountains of Thalanda or Cyrtonum Mons North-West and South-East as far as the Mountain Ptoos In the middle it is narrow but then enlarging it self again until it comes to be divided at the South-East end into three several Bayes At the two Northmost of these Bays are the principal Chanels in a wonderful manner pierced through the Mountains The whole mass whereof consists of a very hard stone considerably high and of a great extent in thickness though in some places it be greater and in others less the shortest Passage to the Sea being towards Thalanda and the North-West end of the Lake is at least four Miles through the Mountain Where this enters in under the Mountain is a Town called Palea situate towards the North-West end of the Lake where it riseth again on the other side near the Sea are those Mills I but now spake of about two hours riding from Thalanda This seems to be the place which Strabo calls Anchoe where the Town of Copais was also situated that gave the old name to this Lake and by the same rule on the Sea side where the Waters come out of the Lake should lye Larimna Superior or that of Locris where Strabo makes the Chanels to pass thirty Stadia or about four Miles under ground from Copais to Larimna The other Chanels I saw on the North-West end of the Lake are all a much greater distance from the Sea many of them passing at least half a days Journey under the Mountain Ptoos The Northmost of the two Bayes last mentioned divides it self again into three Bayes the first of which entreth under the Mountain by two Chanels the second and third by three Chanels apiece Another Bay also there is that divideth it self into many other little Bays and those again into Chanels Insomuch that I easily believe what an Albanese I met there told me to wit that there were at least fifty of these under-ground Chanels whereby the Lake emptieth it self into the Sea For I saw above half the number of them my self From Proscina hither a considerable part of our way lay along one of those Chanels in several places of which we saw holes down to it but could neither see nor hear the Water as it passed by reason the Chanel was every where close covered and much deeper When we came to ascend the steeper part of the Mountain we passed by ten or a dozen square Stone-Pits about a Furlong distant one from another which I found still deeper and deeper according to the rising of the Mountain until by the sound of the Stones I cast in I could not judge them less than fifty Fathom deep but I heard no sound of Water at the bottom The reason whereof I found because the Chanel which carries the Water lyeth covered deeper under them They are about four foot square a piece at the Mouth and cut out of the hard Rock of the Mountain From all which I began to be sensible of the vast labour cost and indefatigable industry that brought the whole work to such perfection For by such Pits as these the rest of the fifty Chanels were first made if made at all and are now upon occasion cleansed when ever they happen to be obstructed Pausanias saith that
great many Cannons the Spoils taken in their Wars from the Christians and Persians some we observed with such a vast Bore as are capable to fling Stones of near ten foot diameter Near this Point we observed several Rocks and Shelves lying but little below the Surface of the Water which must needs be very dangerous to any Vessels that either by the Wind or Current shall be drove upon them When we came to the Seven Towers we were not permitted Entrance by reason that a Knight of Malta had made his Escape thence not long before whereupon it was ordered that no Franck should enter there any more We were only permitted to go round it and all we observed was an antient Gate looking towards the Propontis adorned with Basso-relievo's on oblong Tables of white Marble On one is the Fall of Phaeton on another Hercules fighting with a Bull on another Hercules in combat with Cerberus and on another Venus coming to visit Adonis sleeping with some others we knew not what they signified This Gate is now quite stopped up and no Entrance that way Hard by over a little Gate of the City which from the Bosphorus leads to the Seven Towers we observed this Inscription with the Letters curiously joyned to each other in knots hardly to be explicated ΑÎΕΚΑΙÎΙΣΘΕ ΕΠΙ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΚΟÎΣΤΑÎΤΙÎΟΥ ΤΩΠΠΟΡΦΥΡΟΓΕÎÎΗΤΩΠΠΘΙΛΟΧΡΙΣΤΩΠΚΑΙ ΤΩΠΔΕΣΠΟ ΤΩΠΠΕΠΕΤΕ Κ. Φ. Κ. Α. †Which imports that the Gate was rebuilt by Basilius and Constantine Porphyrogenites Emperours in Christ the year This Place looks not strong enough for a Castle but is sufficiently so for a Prison which is the Imployment they now put it to and that only for great Men or great Malefactors like the Tower of London So soon as our Convenience would permit PATRIARCH AT BALLATA we went to wait on the Patriarch of Constantinople who was then named Parthenius to deliver him the Present of Books which we had received from the Protopappa of Corfu for him and to see in what state so great a Prelate of the Church lived and was reduced to His Palace and Church is at a quarter of the Town called Ballata which must not be mistaken for Gallata It is situated near the Western Corner of Constantinople adjoyning to the Harbour and is allotted to the Patriarch and Greek Christians We saluted him at his coming out of the Church according to the Greek Custom with low Reverence kissing his Hand or Chappelet first putting it to the Mouth and then to the Fore-head His usual Habit differeth not from the ordinary Caloyers or Monks of the Order of St Basil out of which the Bishops and Patriarchs are chosen it being a black serge Cassock or Vest down to the ground a black Cap with a black Cypress or curled Scarf wound about it as the other Bishops and Egoumeno's or Abbots often do wear He liveth but obscurely his Palace being no better than the worser sort of our Parsonage Houses The Patriarchal Church is but a small obscure Edifice without any great Ornament or Beauty For the Greek Church is trampled upon here as well as in all other the Turkish Dominions They keep in it part of the Pillar they say our Saviour was tied to when scourged by Pontius Pilate The Patriarchs depend on the Grand Signior both as to their Spiritual and Civil Jurisdiction For they are likewise Judges in Civil Matters between Christian and Christian They buy this Dignity dear and possess it with great hazard Yet so ambitious are the Greek Clergy of it that the Bishops are always buying it over one anothers Heads from the Grand Vizier who desires no better Sport than to see them strive who shall bring most Grists to his Mill. They purchase this Dignity with very great Sums of Money which are again to be pressed out of the poor Greek Christians and when obtained it is no longer secured to them than till the Ambition of another Bishop offers more for it or impeacheth this Incumbent with Crimes sufficient for a Pretext to dispossess him Which the Vizier greedily catcheth at right or wrong to the Ruin of the present Possessor Yet the Bishops are still canvasing for it insomuch that in the space of five Years they had changed the Patriarch five times some of them being executed and others having made their Escape of whom I saw one at Zant and another they say is at Smyrna The Authority which they thus obtain by Simony they maintain by Tyranny For as soon as they are promoted they send to all their Bishops to contribute to the Sum they have disbursed for their Preferment and such as deny they depose and send others to their Charge Again the Bishops send to their inferiour Clergy who are forced to do the same to the poor People or to spare it out of their Wives and Childrens Mouths But many times they engage for more than they can perform and bring the Church so much in debt to the Turk that its Ruin is daily threatned thereby which without God's great Mercy uphold it cannot long subsist I was informed that Patriarch Parthenius was then owing fifty Purses of Dollers each Purse containing five hundred which amounteth to twenty five thousand making in English Money about six thousand pound which to raise in the great Poverty that Church is in will be a greater difficulty to him than it was to be made Patriarch We had but a short Conference with his All holiness which is the Title they give him in Discourse viz. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 As to their ordinary Bishops they say 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 your All-priestship or 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 your Beatitude and to every inferiour Priest 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 your Holiness c. We desired to see his Library hoping to find many good Manuscripts in it But he informed us That he had but few or no Books at all though in a Paper-shop hard by his Door we bought about twenty or thirty antient Greek Manuscripts of which I may perhaps at some other time give the World an Account It would be pertinent in this Place to give some short View of the State and Religion of this Church But that Subject having been so amply and ingenuously handled by Mr. Smith and Mr. Ricaut I shall only at present make some Remarks on their Opinion of the Eucharist which has been so much and long controverted between late Writers of the Romish and Protestant Church and that I shall do with the same Sincerity and Frankness as I had my Informations from Bishops Caloyers and other Religious Men of that Communion with whom I conversed in several places of my Journey The Eucharist or Holy Communion is the Sacrament in which they shew most of their Devotion it being the chiefest Part of their Religious Worship wherein they express the whole Mystery of the Gospel as the Death Passion Resurrection and Ascension of Jesus Christ into Heaven Lib II. Fig VIII