boyl it and then let the strong be gently put into the Kettle and so boyl the first strong Lee which did run off with it till all comes in the Kettle and the Lees be strong enough and you must sometimes with a great Copper-Spoon full of holes stir the Lees about in the bottom of the Kettle for when the Lee yeilds Salt it will fall on the bottom of the Kettle then lift it out with the great Ladle and always take the scum from it then prove the strong Lee by droping one two or three drops upon a cold Iron and when the drops stand upon it like Butter that is when they flow not off when you turn the Iron then the Lees is strong enough or set the Lees in a little Copper Vessel upon cold water till it becomes cold then the raw Salt-Petre will show it self whereby you may see alwayes whether the Lee be strong enough which may be seen also upon the great Spoon wherewith you scum it for if the Lees draw it self into a Body like an Oyl the proofs are right now when the Lee is thus prepared then a hundred pound of it will contain in the proof very near seventy pound of Salt-Petre CHAP. VI. How to prepare Lees for the crude and raw Salt-Petre WHEN the Lee is prepared as above Section 1 put it out of the Kettle into a very strong Tub of good Wood let it stand in it till it cool a little and the dirt settles then the Salt will fasten it self in great Grains on the Wood and when the Lees is cool so that you may hold your finger in it then draw it off through a Tap which is to stand a span high from the bottom and put it into great deep Wooden Troughs or into Copper Kettles which must stand in the ground the colder they stand the better till the Salt-Petre grows and in this the raw Salt-Petre will grow almost two fingers thick partly white partly yellow and partly very black-brown When the Lee hath stood in the growth two daies and two nights draw off the Lee from the Salt-Petre and put it the second time over Ashes again with other strong Lee else it will be too fat and will not grow but when the Ashes are not good so that the Lee cannot grow then put strong Lee with other Lee over new good Ashes and boyl it again to grow as above likewise when the strong Lee in the making is very muddy in the Kettle and the Salt cannot fall because of the muddyness if this happen then only take out the Lee to the growth and let the remaining Lee purify through the Ashes Now how the Salt is to be taken out and how the strong Lee stands growing this following Sculpture will shew Sculpture XL. Deciphered 1. The long narrow Tubs wherein to cool the Lees. 2. The Oven wherein the Kettle is placed 3. The Master that makes and takes out the Petre and puts it into separating Baskets 3. The separating Baskets 4. The Tub out of which the strong Lee runs into the Kettle 5. The Melters in which the Salt Petre Improves 6. The four Kettles standing in the Ground wherein the Salt-Petre also improves it self 7. A strong Tub into which the Salt-Petre is to be cast as it improves CHAP. VII How to purify and cleanse the raw Salt-Petre WHEN the Salt-Petre is thus made and Section 1 the rest of the Lees drawn off lift up the Kettles or Trays and turn them to one end that the remaining Lee may run clear off then take a great Iron Spoon such as Bricklayers use and lift out the Salt-Petre with it out of the Kettles or Trays put it into a Tub with a hole below that the Lees may run clean off Section 2 Some Salt-Petre Boylers who sell the raw unpurified Earth-Petre they pour clean Well-Water upon it that it may be well washed from the most part of its redness and become white what is run off they put again to other strong Lee and boyl it the next boyling But if you will purify the raw Salt-Petre right and well Section 3 from its Salt and uncleanness to become fair and white do it thus When the raw Salt-Petre is a Centner or four cause the purifying Kettle to be cleansed and dryed pour in it so much Well-Water that the Salt-Petre may be dissolved in it then make a fire under it let the water be boyling hot and then put the Salt-Petre gently and easily in it and turn it about with the scumming Spoon that the Salt-Petre may be the sooner and easier dissolved But while you are pouring it into the Kettle let there Section 4 be but little fire under that the cleansing may remain warm and when the Salt Petre is almost all put into the water and melted and the cleansing begin to boyl then with the scumming-Spoon put some upon the ground and when the Salt-Petre hath set great Grains of Salt then lift it out which is better for it Section 3 When this is done and the cleansing begins to boyl then it brings up a black scum take that off and take a Copper Vessel which holds near 8 Loths of strong Lees and make it half full of the cleansing put it in cold water to cool it suddenly so the Salt-Petre will begin to shoot and this is called a Proof made then you will see whether the cleansing be yet too strong if it be there will come a skin over the Proof in the Vessel and if so then fill more warm water into the Kettle and keep it in such a strength that the cleansing in the Kettle may bubble then make a Proof out of the Vessel and when the cleansing shoots in it and in the midst do remain open so that it doth not close together then the Proof is right but if it grows together then fill more water till the Proof remain open and pour near a pint of Vinegar in the cleansing into the Kettle which will bring up a black scum for the cleansing will purify it self of it and when the scum is thick take it off and when the cleansing hath bubled a while longer pour in it so much good Vinegar as may keep it in continual bubling and then take the black off as at first this you may do the third time and pour on Vinegar till the cleansing be very clean and do cast up no more black scum Then take 3 or 4 loths of burnt-Allum beaten small and put it in the cleansed water stir it about and of this the Salt-Petre useth to yield fine long slacks and it hurts not the Salt-Petre then pour the cleansing in the before mentioned high slender Tub and cover it that it be not cold in the Tub let it stand an hour or two at most thus the yellow dirt will settle it self in the bottom then let the cleansing run out while 't is hot and pour it into a great wooden Tray or
so for Brevity sake I will conclude this Fourth Book and desire the Reader for this time to be contented with the Instructions I have here given The END of the Fourth BOOK OF SALT-PETRE VITRIOL ALLUM and Salt Springs BOOK V. CHAP. I. Of Salt-Petre IN this BOOK Salt-Petre Earth is described Section 1 and its Properties and how to be known and how to make Lees of it and of the Washings and Boilings of it and the Purifying of the Raw Parts of it and how the Salt is separated from the Earth and cleansed with particular Instructions how the weak Salt-Petre Lee is to be made richer and boil'd to greater profit Also how to prove the Flints for Vitriol and Allum-Oar Section 2 for Allum and of Wells or Springs of Salt Now because Salt-Petre is much used for several uses as may be seen in the Four foregoing Books especially for the distilling of Aqua Fort. I thought it a necessary knowledge for every one who shall use the former works that he may himself purify the Salt-Petre and cleanse it from the Earth of common Salt Therefore I shall in this Book give a large and true Section 3 Instruction to all such and others who are Lovers of the Products of Nature and tell them of what Species Salt-Petre is and of what 't is made also how to boil it so that every one for his own Use may prepare it himself Section 4 Salt-Petre is a Stone-Salt which hath in it self a sullen cold fire therefore for many things serviceable especially for separations of which I have written in my Books before and of great use for making Gun-Pouder from which it cannot well be spared but 't is to be made out of many Sorts of Earth as hereafter follows CHAP. II. Of what Earth Salt-Petre is best to be made Section 1 THE best Earth which is richest in Salt-Petre and hath not much Salt is the Earth out of old long-lain Sheep-stalls which are very dry and not wet The other Earth which yields good Salt-Petre is the Calx or Clay of very old Walls in a Town or City where the Earth it self is Salt-Petrish having not stood too wet nor alwayes dry but sometimes moistned and then again shined â—pon by the Sun Section 3 Next to this is the Earth which comes of broken Chalk-Walls in ruin'd Houses built upon vaulted Cellars and lain there some years because the Vapours out of the Cellar through the Vault may draw it in as also from the daily moistness from above and so the Salt-Petre is generated and this Earth may be dig'd to a good depth for it lies mixt from above down to the Vault which by the before-mentioned way may be proved how deep the Earth shall be taken for the use Also Earth which is old and hath lain long in unplastered Section 4 Houses Cellars or Vaults is good but if it lies not above a Span or half an Ell deep it is not good to take up therefore it must be try'd only take Notice that in those places where you intend to boil Salt-Petre must be also of Salt-Petre or of a Saltish Nature that they may be workt together Now those places in general which lay in good fat and claiey Countreys and the Earth of unplastered Hors-stables or old sheep-houses where the Sun hath power over it as also the Earth of Brewers and of Dyers-houses and of all Alumish places and the Ashes of Sope-boylers and Tanners and all other Ashes whereof Lee is made are very useful only this latter Earth do's yield much Salt which is some hinderance in boyling CHAP. III. How Salt-petre is to be proved SALT-PETRE and all other saltish Section 1 Earth you must prove thus Put it in a little Tub with water upon it which may cover it a square hand let it stand two or three hours then let it run off and retain the Lees. Then take a little Ballance made on purpose pretty Section 2 quick in motion that it may draw a half pound of the proof weight then have two Scales of Brass or Copper set in each weigh scale one and in one of them a Centner of the Proof weight and in the other Scale drop with the point of a Knife or a Spoon one drop of this Lees and after that another until you have weigh'd a Centner of the Lees then with Pincers take the Lees and the little Scale which must have room for a Centner of Lees in it from the Ballance and set it upon a foot made on purpose over a little warmth or upon a piece of Iron-plate or Lamin and hold a large Candle under it and the Lee will begin to boil in the little Scale and let it boil till all moisture is boil'd in and the remains becomes yellow-white and hardish then lift it off and put it in the Ballance again lay as much of the proof-weight against it as it weighs so you may see how much Section 3 Salt-Petre a Centner of this Lee will yield only observe If you make your proof too hot then the Salt-petre will be of a black-brown and so spoil'd then make it anew that the Proof may be right But that you may know whether it be Salt-Petre or Section 4 Vitriol take with a knife out of the little Scale some of the rest of the matter and lay it upon glowing Coals and when it melts and burns and is sharp upon the tongue and cold then it is Salt-Petre but if it be Salt and no Salt-Petre then it sparkles upon the Coals and will flow and is upon the Tongue like a common sharp Salt Section 5 By such proof perform'd with diligence it doth many times prevent that no unprofitable or saltish Earth is brought in or made to Lees or boyl'd off as I will shew in my following Instructions After the Proof is made observe diligently when the Salt-Peter doth burn whether it leaves behind much feces or dregs like Ashes which will not burn and this is Salt For if it be found thus though the Earth be prety rich in the Proof yet it is not to be accounted so good as if the proof were poorer and burned clear off upon the Coals therefore the Salt by it is not so good but it must alwayes be separated from the proof for it weakens the strong Lees and hinders much in many things as Experience sheweth But if you have not the Oportunity with the Ballance Section 6 and Weights or understand them not then make a little Scale of Brass of a hand-breadth and put off the Lee which is made in it and set it upon a few hot Coals let it boil in as is above declared so you may see whether the Lee which is made of the Earth be rich of Salt-petre or not which is a nearer way also to have the Proof yet he that knows it by Ballance and weight is surest of his Reckoning How the Salt-Petre Lee is to
great Copper Kettle which for coolness had need stand in the ground and cover them warm that the Lees may begin to spring from below else the Salt-Petre will grow first above and fall down and so will not yield very long slacks let it stand three or four days until it grows no more which you may prove thus set some of the Lees in the Copper-proof Vessels if it grow no more in it then take away the rest of the Lees and let it clean go off and then put the Salt-Petre with the Iron Spoon clean out of it into a Vessel with a hole below that the rest of the Lees may run off and thus you have purified Salt Petre. The Lees which is drawn off while it is yet salty Section 4 boyl it as the other strong Lee in making of the Salt or Lee and from this the raw Salt-Petre will grow very well But some use at the cleansing in the Kettle Calx viva by which it becoms as white as Milk and they let it settle in the Tub which makes the Salt-Petre very fine but it settles not so soon or so well in the Tub and while the cleansing stands thus strong in the Kettle you must not make too great a fire for if it boyl too high you can hardly quiet it or hinder it from running over whereby comes great loss therefore it must be kept bubling with a little flame and when the Kettle is washed such water is to be boyled again with the strong Suds or Lees but the scum which is to be taken off from the cleansing must be put upon the Ashes where more Lee is to be put over Ashes that that which is yet in it may come to profit and when you boyl much in the Kettle then lay upon it a hard grey stone like the colour of Tartar under which the Kittle useth to burn and this is sometimes to be cleansed and separated off with a flaming fire made under it to make it fly off and when the Kettle is empty and clean then you may boyl it again The Earth and Ashes which have been extracted Section 5 whereof comes the raw weak Lee are to be put in into vaults or Houses and in four years it will be sit to use only when you use it to make Lees then you must many weeks before dig open such Vaults that the moistness may go off and the Sun may shine in and of this good Lees may be made Section 6 But the old Masters do suppose that if one could run off the Petre in the Houses under Tylings it would be sooner good which is likely for because of too much moistness or daily rain upon it the Salt-Petre is much spoiled and will have only a little moistness of which it is to be generated Section 7 Also some of the old Masters do use among the Earth in the Lees-Tub to mingle bits of Firr Wood a finger long and these they put among the Earth with the Lees that hath been made and set it in the vaults or Houses and such fatness which is used in the mingling the Salt-Petre doth also generate and multiply and they say when it lays in a dry place it may be used again within a year likewise they pour upon the light poor Earth in Houses the old decayed colours of Cloth-Makers or Dyers or any sharp decayed colours of Waters made with Allum yet not so often but that such Earth may have a better beginning to a good effect Next they bring also Soot out of the Stoves Furnaces and Chimnies and mixt with the Earth likewise the Ashes of such Lees as is made in Houses and in the Nosel or Mouths of Ovens where much Straw is burnt which Ingredients do much help to a melioration that it may sooner be used Section 8 Know this only by the way That sometimes Earth is found which gives brown thick Lees which of it self is too fat to make Salt-Petre of amongst which you must mingle another Earth more brittle and lean and with it put some made Lee over it or else you will bring no Salt-Petre off from it fit to be washed How the Salt Peter is cleansed and what Instruments pertain to it they are almost alike to the XXXIX and XL. Sculptures next before and out of the same to be seen CHAP. VIII How to cleanse the great Graind and black Salt-Petre Salt Section 1 THE black or grey Salt-Petre Salt which is found in boyling Salt-petre below in the Kettle and slender-Tub this may be good Salt for dressing Victuals without any danger only it must first be cleansed and purified thus Wash well the Kettle put in clean Well-Water make under it a fire and when it begins to boyl take the said Salt put it gently in and let it dissolve stir it continually and when 't is all dissolved then pour the Lees into a Tub let it settle that the Lees may be clear then wash the Kettle clean again put the clear Lees or Suds in it and boyl it till the Salt fall in it and then lift it out with the great Spoon put it in a Basket above the Kettle that the remaining Lees may run again into the Kettle and lift up such Salt untill no more will fall then dry it and so it is prepared But some before they use it let the Salt glow out by which it becomes stronger and what remains of the Lees in the Kettle boyl it like the other Suds to a Lees and put it out and let the Salt-Petre grow out of it for this Salt coming out of Salt-Petre cannot be quite without Salt-Petre but there will be still some among it which is to be cleansed off thus Take Notice if the Salt have too much Salt-Petre or Section 2 be very black and unclean the Salt will not become very white at once for when the Lees begins to be strong then ascends not white therefore such unclean Salt must be dissolved in the Kettle once more purified and cleansed and then it will become very white Section 3 There is another way of cleansing such black and unclean Salt viz. one may put the dissolved Salt out of the Kettle thus warm through the Ashes over which already Lees hath been put of which the salt Lees will almost purify and cleanse it self yet it becomes not all white Salt but the last remains commonly yellow therefore it must be cleansed once more likewise take notice that when the Salt is to be put over the Ashes that it must be well watered out that the red bottom may not be very salty else it will come in the next strong Lees and makes it very salt And thus you have a true large Instruction of the Salt-Peter boyling how it is to be usually observed but it is a tedious and not profitable boyling for this reason because there is in a Centner of Lees but three or four pounds of Salt Petre therefore the Water
remaining must all be boyled off which takes much time and expences and cannot be avoided but how it may be helped as I my self have found out and used I will Demonstrate in the next Chapters CHAP. IX How to make the raw Lees richer before the boyling Section 1 AFTER this way many Salt Peter boylers have searched but the true Method because they have not been guided by the little Proof they could not find but thus it is to be done Take a Tub full of the Lees of which a Centner contains four pound of Salt-Petre pour it upon new Earth let it stand upon it near 12 houres that it may run off and as much as remains behind of the Lees so much Water pour upon the Earth and let it run through to the other and thus you will receive so much again as you had of Lees before now when this is done then prove the Lees through the little Proof so you will find because of the other pouring over it will contain 6 pounds this 6 pounds of Lees prove again upon fresh Earth and let it stand 6 hours and then run it off and follow it with so much Water as remains behind upon the Earth also that the first measure of Lees may come only again and not more then the Lee will contain nine pounds this you may once more pour over fresh Earth and enrich it but always observe that the Lees may be neither more or less then it was at the first and to follow this with Water in this manner I only mention for the proof sake that one may be sure of the enriching for the Lees by this means will contain more Salt-Petre and yet the Lees will not increase then to supply the first measure of Lees pour in some of the weak Lees so it will be the sooner and more enriched and of such you may then soon come to a Suds And though there is much labour and dilligence thus Section 2 to enrich the Lees yet it comes all again for one may make in one Week two or three times more Salt-Petre and it spends no more Wood only it requires more Vessels to keep the Lees severally for their enriching I will also shew hovv the Salt-Petre boyling may be Section 3 ordered to profit first observe because there appertains much of Earth to a great Boyl-work and good Earth is not alvvays to be had but sometimes if one cannot prove the Earth very poor Earth is mingled amongst it that the expences are spent upon the poor as the good and thereby no gain to be expected therefore I judge it more profitable to make the Boyl-work vvith three or four Tubs that one may take the best Earth which is to be had out of old Cities Houses and Stables yet not too deep by vvhich means such Lees as are of 8 pounds content may easily be enriched as above to 18 or 20 pounds and not done vvith so much boyling this they may consider of especially vvhere Wood is dear Section 4 When the Lees is thus enriched there vvill remain more Salt-Petre in the Earth for the good Lees cannot take it all out then upon this Earth pour common water let it stand some hours and then run it off so you will receive weak Lees prove it and make the enriching thus as hath been shewed and so you may be continually at your work Section 5 Now because the Salt-Petre Lees may be enriched out of poor Earth much more the Allum Lees out of the same Oar and Earth and may be boyled to better profit vvill by dilligent searching be found hovv it may be performed Section 6 After this manner I judge one may make Lees on all roasted Oars and try vvhat Salt they may yield for I do believe that the roasted Lead Oars are not vvithout such a salty matter which I leave to farther Experience But how a Salt-Petre Halls Houses or Sheds are seen to be on the out-sides you will see in the following Sculpture thus Deciphered 1. The fore-part of the Salt-Petre House wherein the Lee Tubs do stand 2. The back part wherein the Kettle and the Oven do stand wherein the Salt-Petre is to be boyled 3. The Old Pieces of dig'd Earth out of which Salt-Petre is to be taken 4. The Wood used for boyling it 5. The Servant that shaves and fits the pieces of Earth for boyling 5. 5. 5. Sculpture XLI It is also to be observed That the Salt-Petre Sheds must be built very low as possible and covered with Straw whereby the warmth from the Kettle may go over the Tubs especially in Winter if Earth is to be had for boyling so that the weak Lees may not freeze CHAP. X. How Flints are to be proved for Vitriol and Allum-Oar for Allum Section 1 FIRST you must observe that all Flints are Coppery or Vitriolish and some more rich than others the proof is thus Roast the Flint very well cool it beat it small and make Lees of it then weigh a Centner of it and prove it as is said of the Salt-Petre Lees and what remains in the little scale weigh against the weight then you may find how rich the Flint is But that you may be sure it is Vitriol is good but when the proof doth not so then make more Lees and try it in a little pan of Lead that you may know what kind of species it doth yield Section 2 Many think that because we make Vitriol-Lees out of Roast-Oars and Copper-Stone therefore we may out of Copper and Silver c. which is with good profit to be melted out of them yet 't is found that out of the same Flint and Copper-stone made into Lees there hath been made much less Copper than when it had been melted before the making them into Lees by reason the Vitriol Lees which is made of it hath drawn out the most part of the Copper and somewhat of the Silver therefore it is not to be trusted to nor any account to be made of it Section 3 But the Allum-Earth or Shiffer if you prove it for Allum it matters not that it be roasted neither can it be done raw with it as it comes out of the Vein but it must lay a while upon a heap together to be weathered and warm'd in it self that it may fall asunder and break out and then you may make Lees of it and you will find by the proof of the Allum upon the Tongue that it draws it together very Vitriolish Further we may observe that in the Vitriol-Mines Section 4 as at Goslar upon Cuttemburg and other places that the Waters which by Art are drawn out of the deepest Mines are for the most part vitriolish yet some more than others and if such Water might be directed in wooden Pipes into the Boyling-Work and boyl'd for Vitriol it would yield good profit yet when this is done you must take heed that no sweet-sweet-Water which by Arts
follows as also of the Rise and Springs of metallick Oars and how they grow in the Mountains Veins and Chanels of the Earth and how generated of which the old and later Philosophers have had many different Opinions as also of the Streams Chanels and their Entervals and other Accidents which do discover and produce Oars whereby the Miners do guid themselves in their Proceedings and Works Yet because it would have been too long and endless to recite the Opinions of Philosophers and the various Operations of Miners in respect they do not agree in all things and miss very much of their Aims and have written many Books to little purpose therefore for brevity sake I have omitted them and proposed only my own Practice for the better advancing this Metallick ART The first PART Consisting of V. BOOKS The CONTENTS of the Chapters and Sections of the first BOOK CHAP. I. of Silver Oars Sction 1. The I. SCULPTURE Deciphered 2. The II. SCULPTURE Deciphered 3. The purpose of this first Book 4. Why Silver in the first place CHAP. II. How Silver Oars are distinctly known SEction 1. Of the difference in Assaying Oars and of the several sorts of Silver Oars as followeth 2. Of Glassy Oars 3. Of white Goldish Oars 4. Of Horny Oars 5. Of Red Goldish Oars 6. Of Black Oars 7. Of Ironish Oars 8. Of Leadish Oars 9. Of Glittering or Bismutick Oars 10. Of Float Oars 11. Of Azure or Mountain-Green Oars 12. Of Flinty Oars many sorts 13. Of Blanch Cobolt mispeckle or speckle Oars 14. Of Glimmer Wolferan Talk Cat-Silver and sparkling Oars 15. Of Spelter or Spizy Oars 16. Of Spady Oars 17. Of Slacks and Copper-Stone Oars 18. Of the wayes of Assaying them CHAP. III. How the Assay-Ovens to prove Silver and other Metals are to be prepared and made SEction 1. Of special Ovens adorning them not profitable 2. The Assay-Ovens variously used to make good Loam 3. An Assay Oven made by Norimbergers 4. An Assay Oven made of Tiles 5. An Assay Oven in which the fire is best governed 6. Assay Ovens of Armour Plates 7. The III. SCUPTURE Deciphered CHAP. IV. How Muffles Bottom Plates Tests and other small Potters Works are to be made for Assays SEction 1. The Assayers are to be skill'd in making them 2. Of making the Loam for them 3. The Frame for Assay Tests 4. To make Muffles 5. How the bottoms of them are to be framed 6. Of drying and Calcining the Loam 7. The IV. SCULPTURE Deciphered CHAP. V. Of Copels how they may be made firm and good SEction 1. Of good Clay and Clar. 2. What Ashes to be used and how washt 3. Of Vine-Wood and common Ashes 4. Of Bone Ashes which best 5. Of Instruments for the Clar. 6. Of glew Water for Copels CHAP. VI. How good Copels may be made wherein the Tryals will not leap or sparkle SEction 1. Bones for Copels of Calves and Sheep 2. Bones of Fishes the best CHAP. VII How good Clar is to be made for Copels SEction 1. Clar of Calves-head Bones 2. Clar of Harts-horn 3. Clar of Fish Bones 4. How to be kept for Use 5. The V. SCULPTURE Deciphered 6. The VI. SCULPTURE Deciphered CHAP. VIII How Lead Glass is to be made SEction 1. To what Oars Lead Glass is to be used 2. To prepare the Fluss or Lead Glass 3. Another way to prepare it 4. Another way to make it 5. To cleanse the Lead Glass CHAP. IX Of the Weights that belong to the proving of Silver SEction 1. Of the Centner Weight 2. Of dividing the Centner Weight into Drams Loths Ounces and Pounds 3. Of the Penny-Weights 4. Of dividing the Penny-weights into Hellers Pence Drams Loths and Marks 5. Of dividing the Dutch Penny-Weights into Grains Pence and Marks 6. Of dividing the Grain-Weights into Loths Ounces and Marks CHAP. X. How all Silver Oars are to be Tryed and Assayed SEction 1. Of Assaying soft Oars 2. Of Assaying hard Oars 3. Of quick boyling Silver Oars 4 A way to Assay Raw Oars 5. To help raw Oars 6. Of Assaying Coppery Flacky Oars 7. Of cleansing gross sulphurous flinty Oars after boyling 8. To Assay Cobolt Oars 9. Of Roasting Oars in the Ovens 10. How the full worth of proofs may be sound 11. To Assay with Lead Glass 12. How many Oars may be Tryed in one Oven 13. To Assay Oar to a Dram. 14. How to weigh the try'd Grain 15. To boyl Rich Oars with Fluss or Lead Glass CHAP. XI How poor Oars of Silver are to be Assayed  CHAP. XII To Assay Muddy Water coming from Springs of Silver  CHAP. XIII How a true Lead-Grain is to be drawn from the Assay SEction 1. Care in the Assaying 2. The poorest Lead not without Silver 3. Of Copper to be added to the Lead Grain 4. Another way to make a Lead Grain CHAP. XIV How Slack-Stone and Copper-Stone are to be Tryed for Silver SEction 1. What Slack-stone is 2. How to separate it from Sulphur c. 3. How the Cakes of the Slacks are to be used CHAP. XV. To Assay Hard Work and Copper-Laech for Silver  CHAP. XVI To Assay melted Speize SEction 1. What Speize is 2. The difference between Spize and Slack-stone 3. To take the Silver out of the Spelter CHAP. XVII How black Copper is to be melted and cast into Ingots SEction 1. The difference of black Coppers 2. How to be cut in pieces or Ingots 3. How to cast these Ingots 4. Differences in Proof Ingots 5. The Assaying an Ingot 6. To govern the fire for it 7. Of the Grains produced from the Assay 8. Another way to try Copper for Silver 9. Care of Instruments 10. The proving of black and raw Copper 11. The Weight of the Copels CHAP. XVIII To Assay Bell-Metal for Silver  CHAP. XIX How old Silver-Plate or Coyns are to be Granulated SEction 1. The graining of Silver profitable 2. Why Crucibles break often in this Work 3. To make Grains round or hollow and thin 4. How to govern the Fire in this work of Granulation CHAP. XX. How to Granulate Silver out of a Kiln SEction 1. The manner of performing it 2. A quick way of Granulation 3. What to do if the Crucible break 4. The VII SCULPTURE Deciphered CHAP. XXI How the Granulated Silver is to be Assayed for fine Silver SEction 1. Of the different Contents of grained Silver 2. The different quantitys of Lead to be used 3. Of the Assay Grains 4. Of the rich Assayed Grains 5. When the Proof hath too little Lead 6. When the Proof goes too hot 7. To Assay Grains with fine Silver CHAP. XXII How Coyn'd Money of great or small sorts may be Assayed SEction 1. To Assay Dollars and Rix Guilders 2. To Assay with covered Ovens 3. To Assay double Stivers 4. The quantity of Lead to be used for them 5. To Assay Pence 6. To find the Proof of small Money 7. To Assay Silver by the Centner Weight 8. To Assay the Contents
Assay-Oven must first be kindled from above downwards and so they will remain whole otherwise they will all fly in pieces and thus you are fully instructed how the Potters-Clay is to be made into Instruments and if they be not good and firm they are a great hindrance to the Assayer the Forms of vvhich are truly to be seen in the follovving Sculpture Sculpture IV. Deciphered 1. The Muffles which the ancient Assayers did use and the common Assayers do still 2. The Muffle to the Norimgberg Assay-Oven 3. The Muffle to the Assay-Oven with the two mouth'd holes 4. Stopples 5. Bottom Plates 6. Covers 7. Wooden Frames or Moulds for Muffles 8. The lower part of an Assay-Test 9. The upper part of an Assay Test 10. The Frames or Moulds for Assay-Tests 11. The lower part of the Assay-Crucible 12. The upper part to it 13. The Assay-Crucible perfected 14. The small Instruments for governing the fire made of Potters-Clay CHAP. V. Of Copels and how they may be made firm and good Section 1 IT is necessary for a Refiner to have his Copels made well because if the Copels be not made of good Loam or Clay they will devour the fine Metal very much especially when the Clar is not well made which is to be put upon the Copel because it will rise and so the silver Grain will be hid under it and if the Clar be not good the silver Grain will be lost under the Lead and not fined Also if the Ashes be not good or something fat or oyly then will the Copels melt in the fire which will prove of ill Consequence because with such there can be no Tryall made But that you may have good Copels that your Tryals may be the better perform'd make them in this following Manner Section 2 Take Ashes burnt from any light Wood as Sallows c. for such are best for this use and put them into a Seeve and pour Water on them that the Ashes may be wash'd through the Seeve into a Tub so the Coals and grosser parts may remain in the Seeve then pour into the Tub so much water more that the Ashes may be covered-over then stirr it about and let it stand an hour or two whereby the water will draw out the fatness and oilyness out of the Ashes then pour the remaining water very gently off that the thick troubled water may not go along with the clear water and then pour another water on it and let it stand also till the upper water grow clear then pour it again gently off and this do till the water hath no fatness or sharpness then the third time pour clear water on the Ashes and stir them about with a stick as before and pour that water whilst it is thick and muddy into another Tub that the gross part of the Ashes in the first may remain till the water in the other Tub be clear and well setled then let the water run clear from it again this is the first clearing then pour another water upon the wash'd settled Ashes and stir them again with a stick then pour the thick again into another Tub or Boul that is to try if there remains any Fatness or gross Ashes that it may all be cleanly separated and let the muddy water settle very well because it is the last washing and when the Ashes are thus far prepared then make Balls thereof let them dry well in the Sun or in a Bakers Oven and keep them clean for use Section 3 There are some Refiners that in stead of Ashes burnt off light Wood do take Ashes of Vine-wood but they are not every-where to be had and they do wash and prepare them as abovesaid some do use only such Ashes of which the common Lixivium or Lye is made but the two former are better which you will also finde by use and Experience only there must be a care that the Ashes be clear and well prepared Section 4 Secondly You must have to your Copels good and clean Bone-Ashes for which take Bones that have no Marrow or Gravy and burn them white pulverize and pass them through a hair Seeve then grinde them upon a stone like Meal and so you have Bone-Ashes prepared then take two parts of the wash'd Ashes which have first past through the hair Seeve that they may not remain in Lumps and with one part of the ground Bone-Ashes and mingle these two well together and moisten them with strong-Beer but first let the Beer boil away one third or with a glew-Glew-water But if you will bestow somthing more upon it then beat the whites of Eggs in water and moisten the Ashes therewith but not too much that when you press a handful together the Ash-ball may well remain intire then let the Copel-case be well fill'd with Ashes and put in but be sure to scrape the superfluous Ashes off it and give the Monk three or four blows vvith a wooden Mallet upon the Copel-frame wipe the Monk clean off and strew with a little wooden shovel good Clar upon the Copel vvhile 't is yet in the Case and part the Clar vvith your finger and set the Monk strait upon it again and give tvvo or three Blovvs to fasten the Clar upon the Copel as necessity doth require that the Clar may be fixed upon it then take the Monk off press upon other Ashes the Copel out of the Case so is the Copel ready in such a manner may you make Copels great and small then let them dry till you have need of them so vvill they be firm and good Some do use a special Instrument made of Latten Section 5 which is full of little holes at the bottom in which they put the Clar and with a wyer that hath underneath a little cross Plate they cause it to run through but I do not like it so well as if it were parted with the finger Some do take also among the Copel-Ashes the tenth Section 6 part of good Potters-Loam which must also be wash'd like unto the Copel-Ashes and dry it in the Sun and this is necessary to be used with it and when the Clay is good and holds well in the fire otherwise it may do more hurt than good in the Copels and I conclude when a man hath good Ashes that are well washed as I have hinted before good Copels may be made that need no mixture and those Ashes may well be moistned with fair water but the Copels are more brickle by it and not so firm as with the strong Beer or glew-water CHAP. VI. How good Copels may be made wherein the Tryals will not leap nor sparkle SUCH Copels as I have hitherto thought Section 1 fit to mention are good to be used by vvhich the true quantity and proof may be found in them vvhen the Governance of the Fire is vvell observed but if this be not minded and the Copel be cool and hot then some part
of the Silver is soon lost but if an Assayer is uncertain in the Silver and Money-proofs and hath not a full knovvledg of the Fire it is better for him to cause the following Copels be made for Tryals Section 2 Let Knuckle-Bones or other Bones be burnt very white the Calves or Sheeps-bones are best among common Bones stamp them fine and grind them upon a Grind stone fine as flower then mosten such subtile bone-ashes like other Copel-Ashes with strong Beer and of this make Copels and strew Clar on them as hath been done with the other before named Copels and let them dry so are they prepared Section 3 But good and clean Bones of Fishes may be had which of all Bone-Ashes are the best to be used for Copels When you would assay upon these Copels set them in the Proof-Oven and when they are only glowing hot then put what you do intend to try in then and although they are only thus the Proofs vvill not leap but be purely finished only this is to be noted that the Assayes upon these Copels are much colder longer and go more subtilly than upon the other Copels therefore there cannot easily any thing of Silver be lost and vvhen the proof is finished than may the Grain be taken off very pure and clean and nothing stick to it although it had been a Coppery-Silver that vvas refined in it vvhich Grains do commonly enter into the Clar and they cannot alvvays be taken off cleanly from other Copels CHAP. VII How good Clar is to be made Section 1 IT is necessary that good Clar must be had for the making of Copells because if the same be not good then there can be no good Copels made although the Ashes be prepared as vvell as can be Novv as for my part I have vvith Diligence try'd many Bones and have found that Calve's-head Bones or the Scales that come from their Forehead are the best Take them and wash them from a boiling hot water or let them boil well in the water that the fatness and foulness may be separated from the other then dry them and burn them untill they be fair and white then stamp and grind them on a stone still moistning them with a little water and put them in a glaz'd Pot with a Cover luted on it and set them once more in a fire or Potters-Oven and let them burn well for four hours then let them cool this done take these burnt Ashes out of the Pot and grind them once more very fine upon a smooth or Marble stone that they may be very clear of which clear preparation the Clar hath its Appellation or name keep it from Dust and it will serve for your use at any time Section 2 Some also do use Harts-horn to make Clar and they burn it and order it as the other abovesaid and this doth yield good Clar but those of the Scales of Calves-heads I like better Section 3 There is also of Fish-bones as Pike and other Fishes Bones very good Clar to be made but the Fatness must be first separated from it by boyling and burning them as before but this according to ones pleasure and which Clar any one likes best he may use only he must be careful to see that they be finely ground to Pouder Section 4 When the Clar is ground to pouder then some do wash it in fair water and make four-square Pieces of it or Balls like Chalk-stone as I my self did some years since but I find that if it be finely ground and dryed only it is the better because by washing and drying it and making them into pieces or Balls they will grow hard and cannot be so well scraped from the Lumps as with that which is in Pouder Now how the Copel-Case and the Copel is to be ordered and performed the following Sculpture will shew Sculpture V. Deciphered 1. 3. The Copel cases 2. 4. The Copels that are made in them 5. The Copels as they are set upon one another 6. The Wash'd Ashes or Clar made into Balls 7. He that works the Ashes 8. He that strikes the Copels into their Frames or Cases But that the Forms and Proportions of the Copels may Section 4 the better be seen the following Sulpture doth demonstrate Sculpture VI. Deciphered 1. The Copel-Case 2. The Copel for the Copper-Oars and common Proof of Common Oars 3. The Copels for Oars that are poor in Silver and also for common Oar Tryals 4. The Copel for common Siver-Tryals which are assayed according to Weight 5. The Copel to Starling-silver Proof 6. How the Copels are set one upon the other in the Ovens CHAP. VIII How Glass of Lead or Lead-Glass is to be made Section 1 FURTHER that every one may have good and fundamental Information of what belongs to Assayes therefore I do intend before I further proceed to shew how the Fluss or lead Glass must be prepared which lead Glass is a Fluss and is used to the very hardest and unflowing Oars to the end that they may as easily be boiled up as the soft Oars of which boyling hereafter shall follow more full Direction Section 2 Prepare this Fluss or Lead-glass thus Take fair and white pibble-stones burn them in a Potters-Oven stamp them small and pass it through an hair Seeve pour clean water on it and wash the Mud from it that the pouder of the pibble-stones may be clean and pure of these pibble stones take one part and half a part of red Littorage or Littarge mingle it dry together put it into a Crucible but not above two thirds full and put common Salt on the top of it or Salt-peter if such can be had about three Fingers height above the matter and lute it well and let it flow together with a strong heat in a Wind-Oven or Tyle-Oven let the Crucible cool of it self then open it and all will be mingled in a yellow Glass only a little Regulus of Lead at the Bottom which is to be separated but preserve the Glass which is the Fluss Section 3 You may also melt the Littarge first by it self and of the slakes that come from it take ten parts to one part of prepared pibble-stones and cover it with Salt as above cause them to flow and so a good Lead-glass will come of it Section 4 Or take instead os the wash'd Pibbles good wash'd Loam which is dry and firmly pulverized one part and three parts of good red Littarge cover it with Salt let it flow in a strong heat this doth yield a fair Lead glass Section 5 When the Lead-glass is made and again melted in a Crucible put a little Niter in it and cause it to flow a while after so the Lead-glass will become cleaner or more flowing or one may use among it a fourth part of Caput Mort and cause them to flow together this also causes the Fluss to become finer and
two pound of new Lead that it may endure the longer in the heat but if the burnt matter be Coppery it is the better if not you must add somewhat of Copper because it becomes more Deft by it and the Lead doth take the Silver and Gold easier in than out of the stubborn TIN only In this work the Gold and Silver will go into the Lead and the most of the Copper is drawn off with the TIN then let the Lead go clean off as the Custom is then have you the silver separated from it Section 2 But to bring the Copper and Tin which is drawn off to profit it may be done thus let such stuff dry and cause it to melt in a strong Fire and so the Bell-caster or Founder may mingle it among their stuff and cast it together as in Anno 1567. the City of Slakenword in the Bohemish Borders was burnt down and within the Walls of the City there remained not one House when I my self did after this manner bring much burnt Metals to right and separated the Silver from it which no body else would take upon him to do Section 3 The Philosophers do write of precipitating by which the Silver in common tin may be put down and formed into a Regulus thus one must set the tin apart in a little Oven make it very hot and then precipitate it and with such a precipitation the Silver in the tin will be brought down a hand square and the same in the same deepness may be cut off and the remaining Tin may be again and again and so often cut off until the Silver in the bottom may be brought to a Regulus and then though tin be with it it will purify fully and that which doth precipitate will not hurt the tin but they do write nothing of it I signify this for the sake of such who have a pleasure to this Art and are willing to Exercise themselves in it and so take it into their further Meditation that they may have hereby a way of doing it I for my part suppose that because the Gold in the Silver and the Silver in Copper is to be precipitated that likewise this precipitation is possible in the tin CHAP. XXXII How to drive out all sorts of Silver that it may be Deft smooth and fine Section 1 BECAUSE it happens many times that Silver in casting together from an evil smoak or when happily a little tin comes among it or that among the old Silver there hath been tinny false and gross mixtures becomes hard then is it as Section 2 follows to be made Deft again Put the Silver upon a plain Test which is done over with clean and fine Clar blow it till the Silver runs and goes well then add two or three Balls of very clean Lead according to the quantity of Silver blow it again until the Silver doth bear the Bellows and becomes Deft but you must in the blowing upon the Test once or tvvice with a glovving Iron-Hook stir the Silver that it may be Deft throughout then let it cool and put it in a Pot together as it pleaseth you and take notice that if somevvhat of the Copper be blovvn avvay by vvhich the Silver on the content becomes richer then if it shall retain the Content vvhich it had before it must in the casting again be helpt by adding so much Copper Section 3 But hard burnt silver or other good silver which might become brickle from a leady Lump that same Silver if a little Lead be with it may in this manner upon a plain Test be made Deft without any addition except it hath too much Lead with it self then it must be made upon a plain little Test as above is taught by the Silver burning-pure and Deft Section 4 Also there may a Flus be prepared to make the Silver deft which doth cleanse the Metals very much thus Take sal Alkali Nitre Red Argol and salt Petre of one so much as of the other calcine and dissolve it again in warm Water and let it go through a filter and coagulate so is the Flus prepared CHAP. XXXIII How to boyl Copper from the pagment or old Silver in Coined Money or from thin beaten plates of Silver TAKE sulphur and vitriol of both alike in quantity grind them small and make them a little wet with Vinegar that it become as a Pap mingle the Coyn or old Silver among it then take a long Linnen sack put the Money with these additions in it sow the Sack on the sides from the top to the bottom so that the Mony may not lye too thick in it pour Water into a pot and hang the Sack in it that it may neither touch below nor on the sides boyl it well ten or twelve hours with the fire and so much as the Water does wast by boyling you must add to it again with warm Water so that the Pot may be always full of Water whereby the Copper will be boyled out of the Silver or Coyn and the Silver will remain in the Sack then wash it with warm Water and pour it together but the Water will boyl and dry in and the rest melt together with the Flus vvhich is used to Copper Oar thus you have the Copper which hath been boyled out of the Money only the silver by this is not altogether fine but retaineth some small quantity of Copper in it CHAP. XXXIV How good proof Ballances are to be made and fitted Section 1 APROVER hath not only need that he have clean and just Ballances for proving but he must know also when they do fail or else become changeable or uncertain how to mend and help them again so I judge it for a great piece of Ignorance and it is also not well That some who profess themselves Provers of this ART do often when a little is amiss in the Ballance or worn out or for any other small matter use to send to Neurembirg and other more remote places in Germany to mend their false Proof-Ballances whereas they themselves should have so much Knowledg as to make and fit them with their Proof-weights and Proof Instruments so as they may be certain and sure of their Proofs Section 2 Therefore That a fundamental Instruction may be given I will instruct all who do love this Proof ART especially the young Provers because there are not alwayes Masters to be had who know right well to mannage such things and to teach how the Proof-Ballances and weights and other Proof-Instruments are to be made and also if it be needful to mend and rectify them and first I shall begin with the Proof-Ballance Section 3 which is to be made as followeth Cause a small Ballance to be forged out of the blade of an old Sword that it may have a little broad and thin Tongue and throughout be pure and well wrought and nothing ruff or shivery be on it this
understand and therefore he must have the Knowledge of the righ stroak from great Practice But as to the hard Section 2 Gold they do not give a right stroak but they do touch all of a smaller content than they have in fine Gold therefore such stroaks are to be judg'd false and uncertain CHAP. XV. How the Gold is to be proved by Aqua fortis Section 1 IF you have Pieces of Gold either in Plates or Ingotts and wouldst assay them then first cut Pieces or Plates above at one end of it and below at the other end and beat the Bits thin that you may weigh so much as you have necessity to use for a tryal but if it is a cast Ingot then beat it thin only at one end and weigh of it for thy Tryal Section 2 To such a Tryal of Gold and Gold-Gilders you must have a particular Carat-weight fitted for it and it must be small because of the Silver-cut otherwise the Ballance cannot carry the Cut concerning which shall be treated of hereafter the dividing of the Carat weight is as followeth Division of the Carat-weight 24 Carats is one Mark 12 Carats 6 Carats 3 Carats 2 Carats 1 Carats 6 Grains is half a Carat 3 Grains 2 Grains 1 Grain ½ Grain ¼ Grain ¼ Grain If you would prove the Gold see if it be of a rich or poor Content and would also certainly judge how much a Mark of it hath of fine Gold then you must know first and before the nearest Content of the Gold according to which you are to make your Tryal as shall follow That for such contents you shall have two sorts of wayes to inform your self First by the Touch with the before made Golden Touch-Needles Secondly One may make a nearer Trial of the Gold for although the Proof do not remain whole in the Aqua fort yet you may see very near what the Gold doth hold Therefore it is best to use the Assay-proof upon Section 3 it by which one may also find what the Gold containeth both in white or fine Silver When now you have found by these waies the nearest content of the Gold then make the cut of fine Silver which must be without Gold take then the Gold and beat it with a Hammer upon an Anvil fine and thin and make thy cut so that the white or Silver which is already with the Gold may be counted with the Tryal or fourth part for it must contain three times as much Silver as of fine Gold To comprehend this the better the following Example shall demonstrate it which I have found by the tryed Proof that of the Gold which containeth 14 Carats 8 grains of fine Gold and 7 Carats and four grains of white I weigh it with the small carat weight to two alike half-Marks then there will be in every half Mark 7 carats and four grains of Gold and 3 Carats and eight grains of white to which I add three times the weight of fine Silver as the gold containeth of fine gold this is my Proportion Now I do multiply Section 4 the seven carats and four grains which containeth the half Mark of fine gold with three and there will come 22 carats of white or Silver to the Addition or to the Cut from this I reckon That of three carats and eight grains of white there will be as much as the half Mark had of Silver with it before so there will remain 18 carats and 4 grains and thus much fine Silver you must add in an half Mark Section 5 As this Silver or Cut and the half weighed Mark do make together 30 carats and 4 grains so much also must be the inweighed gold of the other half Mark cut Put every one of these with its Cut upon a well nealed Copel and add nine weights of pure Lead into it let it go off together and see whither the grains come alike then lay one of the grains in the Scale and as much as it now weigheth less than thirty carats and four grains so much containeth a half Mark of Gold-Red-Copper but to the fine Silver because it looseth upon the Copel if it goeth off upon it with Lead as much as the Lead hath carryed away may by a grain weight be accounted for understand it thus In case every grain did weigh after it was gone of 29 carats and 4 grains also a grain wast of fine Silver there would be wasted one Carat upon the half Mark then there will come upon the whole Mark two carats thus much Copper or red containeth a Mark of mixt Gold Section 6 If the grains are diligently drawn and weighed then beat out of every grain a fine and clean piece or Roll not too thin and glow it often that it may not be shivery and that nothing may go off at the last glow the little Roll and roll it gently over that you may see whether by the often glowing and beating somewhat be come off When now the Rolls are clean prepared glow them once more and if they from the glowing and rolling be come hard let such things be mended Section 7 But the glowing must be done in a golden little half Pipkin made on purpose that nothing unclean may come in it put then the Rolls together in a little separating Glass put to it near so much Aqua fortis made for Goldproofs that it may go an half finger broad over the little Rolls stop the Separating Glass above with a hard twisted paper that no vapors may go out and put it thus into a little Vessel of Iron or brass made on purpose over a few live Coals that the Aqua fort may begin to work so will the separating-Glass become brown but let it not work too much or too fast yet take it a little while from the fire and then put it on again untill the Aqua fortis hath done its working and the Glass become white again Then put off the Aqua fortis again and put fresh Aqua fortis upon it set it again with the Vessel over the fire and let it work this is done because if the first Aqua fort were grown too weak and had lost somewhat of Silver by the Rolls that the other Aqua fort might touch it again and make it clean Take notice also That you may cause the last Aqua fort to work in great Bubbles that the Roles may become very clean and put in the second Aqua fort which hath not beenused for it hath its strength as before Section 8 Then put clean sweet warm water upon the little Rolls Rain Water is the best for it let it stand a little and put more warm or rain Water upon it again and set the Glasses with the Rolls over a coal fire let it boil and work in great Bubbles then take it off and casting the water again away this do three times with warm or rain water that the silvery Aqua
the remainder with the Gold is nothing else as is said before than Silver as well in the parting the Gold as in the Proof else one may drive away what is left with the Bellows and make it clean Section 4 But if you have no fine Gold to the Proof of the Aqua fort then take Hungarish Gold whose Content you know certainly and make of the same Content the Divisions and Proportions then you may find what is to be left behind of the Aqua fort and how much is substracted of it But the Gold which is cast through Antimony as is before mentioned is for such use much surer and better And know That the same Aqua fort after the Distilling must be purified and settled before you do prove or use it to the Gold-Proof of which afterwards an Instruction shall follow Section 5 To all such proving you must have clean separating Glasses Tunnels and little glass Pots for Gold to sweeten in these are to be made of good Venetian Glass and the brighter whiter and clearer they are the better it is that the proofs may well be seen in them Section 6 But the Iron or Brazen Instrument upon which the little separating Glass must stand is to be made four footed that it may stand fast and also with a little handle by which it may be taken off likewise another little foot or instrument of Copper or Iron which must be flat upon which is to be set the Golden little Pots if one will have it set in the proof Oven for the out-glowing because this Proof is the finest most glorious and lovely therefore all things pertaining to it must be made and prepared with all diligence and cleanliness CHAP. XVII How Silver is to be proved for Gold Section 1 THAT I may not mix the Proving of Metals together but give to every proof its due and to write of every one apart how it must be done Know then if one would prove a goldish silver upon Gold it must first be proved upon fine Silver that one may find the right Content both of the fine Silver and also of the fine Gold Therefore when it is proved upon the fine as I have taught in the Silver proof then take the same proof Grains beat them thin glow them and weigh a Mark of it with thy Penny-weight and dissolve the Silver in a little separating glass in Aqua fort then there will remain a brown Gold-Calx Section 2 pour off the Aqua fort very gently then take warm sweet water as you have done before in the Gold Proof and put it upon the Gold-Calx and let it boil over the Coal-fire in a little Culbe or bottle now when the Gold Calx hath setled it self again then drain the water off and put upon the Gold Calx two or three warm waters more that thus the silvery water may be clean taken off from the Gold Calx then put the Gold Calx clean out of the Culbe into a glass pott that nothing may remain then drain the water very clean off from it and bring the Gold Calx in the golden little Pot clean together and if there be wetness about the Gold-Calx then press it with a clean little cloth where 't is made moist and gently on the end of one side that the wetness may be suck'd in only touch not the Gold Calx with the Cloth Section 3 When this is done then set the little golden Pot upon the Trevet in the Assay Oven but not suddenly that the Gold may not leap and the proof become false and glow out the Gold calx so will it become fair then put it again out of the golden little Pot into the inward Scale of the Proof-Ballance and see how much it weighs according to the divided Penny-weight with which you have weighed it so you will have the Content now how much a Mark of Silver containeth I put this as an Example for I have proved That a Goldish silver or grain'd Gold of this mixt Mark hath contained 14 loths and a dram of fine Silver and such fine Silver hath in a dram a penny-weight of Gold then the Content in the Goldish Silver upon a Mark doth signify that it doth contain 13 loths 3 drams and three peny weight of fine silver and one dram and one peny weight of Gold Section 4 Likewise in this manner one may also prove the fine Gold which is come from grained Silver if one doth weigh a Mark of it and dissolve it and if the fine Mark in such a proof do contain one dram one peny-weight and one Heller of Gold and is the Contents and if a Mark of the grained Silver containeth 14 loths one dram be reckoned upon fine Silver then the Mark will signify one dram one peny one heller of Gold and of such proof it is counted that by it the Gold is found a little less than the former but I leave it to every ones pleasure to try and judge Some Assayers have this Method when they would prove a goldish grain'd Oar for Silver and Gold then they weigh the grain'd Metal with their penny weight and prove it upon fine Silver as 't is usual and they weigh in a grain such grain'd Metal after the mentioned weight as at first and dissolve it raw in Aqua fort Section 6 and as much then as they do find in Gold they substract it from the fine-Silver and this they count for the right proof to prove Silver upon Gold But that one may know that this their Proof is false and unjust although somewhat more of Gold is to be found by it therefore I will shew some Reasons why the same Gold is not so high in Fineness as the Gold which is separated out of the Proof of the fine Silver by Aqua fort First although the Copper doth dissolve yet the green Coppery water sets it self rather on the Gold than on the silvery water and then the Copper which hath set it self cannot be brought off again so clean from the Gold as from the tender silvery-water Secondly Gold cometh higher out of the separation than when the silver is Coppery upon which the Aqua fort doth not work so easily as on the fine Silver Therefore no Separater of Gold doth take upon him to separate such Silver after such proof but all the Silvers which he separates in Aqua fort must first be burnt upon a Test Section 7 Thirdly Although the first Process to prove the Goldish Silver upon Gold is the common way and also the right Proof by which the true Content is to be found Nevertheless I must further mention a singular proof which is found upon such goldish silver and grain'd Work by which in the dissolution the little grains or small cut pieces of Silver will remain whole in the Aqua fort of what light Contents soever they be of Gold and how small and subtil soever the
see at the figure 7. in the next Sculpture Deciphered 1. The Tower of the Athanor 2. The two sides or By-ovens in which the Jugs are to be set with the Stuff 2. 2. 3. The Glass Receivers 3. 3. 4. The earthen Jug or Receiver 5. The Oven for the Retorts 6. The little Receivers to be added to the great Receiver that there may be room for drawing the Spirits 7. The Long Oven 8. The By-Ovens by which the spirits are to be forc'd into the Aqua fort Sculpture XXIII CHAP. XXX How Aqua fort is to be separated and cleansed from its Feces Section 1 WHEN the Aqua fort is distilled according to the Instruction given then it is not to be used raw as it comes from distilling but it must be first cleansed and precipitated from its feces that it may be pure and clear and this is done thus If the distilled Aqua fort be two pounds then put near 2 loths of it into a little glass Vial and dissolve in it half a dram of fine silver and while the Solution is yet warm put in the other new burnt Aqua fort so it will become white and thick as milk stir it once or twice a day every day then let it stand one day and one night till the feces do settle in the bottom like a Calx when it is become wholy clean and clear then put it off and you have purified or precipitated the Aqua fort for the separation prepared only take notice that the Aqua fort distill'd in an Iron Jug doth not give so much feces neither is it so unclean as that which is burnt in a glass Bottle because the Iron-Jug is a Metal of it self upon which the Aqua fort doth partly purify it self and it likewise gives to the Gold a higher and finer colour than the other Keep the feces clean together pour it off enter them into the Lead and let it go off upon a Copel so you will find the most part of the Silver in it which you have used to the precipitation Section 2 Some use this Method viz. They do precipitate the new distilled Aqua fort with Hungarian or Bohemish Pence or such like Money which to the separating is all one only the Aqua fort remains not so clear fine and white but because there is Copper in it therefore the Aqua fort becomes a little green for this Reason this Aqua fort settled with Coppery Money cannot be used to the Gold-Proof for the Copper which is in the water sticks rather to the Gold Calx than to the Silver and then 't is not easily wash'd off so clean which is prejudicial to the Proof but if after the first setling the Aqua fort be unclean then you may settle it once more and then use it to Separate or prove Gold according to your pleasure CHAP. XXXI How weak Aqua fort is to be made stronger Section 1 IF it should be neglected in the distilling of the Aqua fort as easily may be done when the Joynings are not well luted over so that the water will become too weak and in the separating will not touch the Silver such weak waters may be made stronger by two wayes First set in again a new stuff of Nitre and calcined Vitriol and put the weak Aqua fort in the Receiver before it and distil the stuff after this make the spirits to go well over so the Aqua fort will become stronger that it may be used well and safely in separations Section 2 The other way isshorter thus Set the weak Aqua fort in a glass Bottle or Culb which must be luted over upon a Coal-fire heat it till it begin to boil then the wateriness of it will boil off which you may often prove while it is boyling whether the water do become strong enough Or set the weak Aqua fort in a Bottle which is luted over in the Athanor or in another Oven in which one useth to burn Aqua fort and put an Helm upon it and draw off from it the Flegm or superfluous wateriness until the Helm begins to be brown fo the weak Aqua fort will become stronger and is fit for use Section 3 The Flegm which is dravvn off you may retain for if you do distil another Aqua fort then you may use it in the Receiver again for this flegm is much better than common vvater CHAP. XXXII How Gold and Silver in the Aqua fort is to be separated Section 1 TO separate Gold from Goldish Silver in the Aqua fort Knovv that the Silver must first be burnt clean upon a Test then cast it into an Ingot and beat it thin upon an Anvil and cut it into little lamins or thin pieces bovv them that they become hollovv glovv them in a Crucible that the Aqua fort may touch them the better such glovved Lamins vvhen they are cold put them into a luted neck separating Glass and put not above five or six of those Mark-Goldish-silver Lamins in at once because of the Danger in breaking and if you have much Silver for they take much room vvith the Bottles then put upon it so much of the purify'd and settled Aqua fort that it go over the Silver a good large Finger and as soon as it begins to vvork of it self put the separating Glass vvith the Silver upon a warm Sand in a great earthen Test of good stuff upon an Athanor that the Sand may alvvays remain hot and vvhen the first Aqua fort hath work enough that it will touch no more then put away the Silvery Water into another luted Bottle but not too hot that the Bottle may not break and put upon it other good Aqua fort which hath not been used set it in warm Sand and let it work the second time but a little stronger than at first until it will work no more Then put it clean off to the Silvery Aqua fort and put upon it the third time Aqua fort and set it upon the hot Sand and let it work strongly and with great Bubbles until all the Silver be dissolved from the Gold which will come out very clean through the three waters now mentioned But if one had more to separate one might use the last water upon other Silver and put it upon it the first time for it will touch and work so that somewhat of the Aqua fort may be spared Section 2 Know also that upon one Mark of beaten Silver there will remain one Mark and a half of good Aqua fort and upon a Mark of thin graind Silver because the Grains remain somewhat thicker and not so light as in beating two Marks now when the Aqua fort hath separated and attracted all the Silver from the Gold then put the Silvery Aqua fort together in a Bottle as abovesaid and upon the Gold or Gold Calx which remains in the Bottle clean boyling hot water so that it
go well over the Gold and put it over again let it boyl well with the Gold calx then put it off in a particular Vessel clean and Section 3 pure that nothing come off from the Gold and put upon it another clean hot water let it boyl with it do this until the water goes off from the Gold very clean and clear and hath no sharpness at all in it and that it take to it self the remaining Silver which the Aqua fort hath left behind with the Gold in the moistness till it cometh clean this is called dulcifying but that you may be sure that you have the Silver sweetned clean prove it thus let fall a drop in a Coppery clean dish and if it do not stain it then 't is dulcifyed clean such sweet waters are all to be put together because of the Silver in it and use it for precipitation of which you shall have an instruction hereafter When the Gold calx after this manner is taken clean off then hold in your hand the Bottle and put the Gold or Gold calx very gently out into an half Glass Bottle with the last clean water together then put it again into the Bottle or Culb and hold your hand before it again and turn the Culb so that all the remainder of the Gold together with the water may flow against the hand then put it finely and gently to the other Gold in the half Bottle Section 4 When all the Gold calx is settled in the half Glass Bottle then drain the water off cleanly and put also the Gold calx being moist into a clean Crucible and set it on the fire and let the water softly evaporate and boyl in then set the Crucible warmer and at the last very hot that the Gold calx may glow clean out then the Gold will receive a fine colour let it be cold and weigh it then in the casting all together nothing will go from it Now if you will cast together the glowed Gold calx then mingle it with a little Borax and put it in a new clean Crucible but rub it at first very clean with chalk and set it in the Fire and when the Crucible gloweth blow to it that the Gold may come to flow of this you may use a little in the Fluss and when you will cast it then lay Section 5 a clean little Paper upon it which is Luted with Venetian Soap and Wax and while the Paper yet burns upon the Gold cast it out under the Flames so it will receive no scum but will casts it self also clean but if you will cast an Ingot then make the Ingot warm and Lute it with Wax and then quench the cast Ingot with Vrine and so the Gold will become fine and deft Section 6 But if one have much to separate if it be Golden grain'd or Gilt Silver and you would separate it in the water then it must be first burnt clean upon a Test and the burnt Silver must be Grained for it would be a hindrance to the Separator if all Silver should be beaten especially in a great quantity yet he who hath time and opportunity will do better to beat the Silver or cause it to be beaten whereby the separation will be done sooner and with less Aqua fort as above is signified but if you want time and opportunity to beat it then take the burnt Goldish Silver and set it in a Crucible in a Wind Oven and grain it with a split or round stick or stir the water with a stick fast about in the Vessel to make the Silver cast it self into Bubbles whereby it will Section 7 grain it self thin and hollow and when 't is drayn'd then dry and glow it and put it in the separating Glass and put Aqua fort upon it that it may go over it pretty well and set an Alimbeck upon it that it may begin to move of it self and when it ceaseth working then set the separating glass upon the Copels in the sand upon the Athanor and let the Alimbeck or Helm stand continually upon it and what Water goeth off from the Aqua fort keep that same by it self for 't is in the distilling of the Aqua fort to be put into the Receiver and is better than common Aqua fort and you must still govern the fire in the Athanor by strengthning and weakning it as the work requires and of this graind Silver put 9 or 10 Mark of it into a bottle at once for it will not take so much room as the beaten yet if there were a quantity to separate of the Golden silver one may prepare more of such Athanors than Section 8 one that divers of the Bottles may be set in at once but you ought to observe this that one must put upon the Graind more than three times fresh Aqua fort for the thick Grains sake that the Gold may be pure Section 9 And if it happens that a Glass Bottle should break and the Silvery Aqua fort run into the sand 't is not quite lost for one may boil most part of the Silver out of the Sand again with warm Water and that which remains in the sand may be mingled with that which is swept off and passes through the melt Oven and be made to profit but of such danger there is little Fear upon the Athanor especially if you have good separating Glasses and also are careful Section 10 When the Silver is separated clean from the Gold then sweeten the Gold Calx well out dry glow and cast it together as often as hath been mentioned and know if you have been diligent in separating and sweetning it the Gold which comes out by the separation will be 23 Carats and one grain but commonly it cometh to 23 Carats and 7 or 8 grains Section 11 Further I add as a Caution That you must not let the Aqua fort evaporate too dry upon the Gold as many times it happens by Negligence whereby the Silver can not set it self on the Gold Calx again which afterwards the other Aqua fort will hardly touch and therefore so soon as one part of the last Aqua fort be poured from the Gold one should quickly cast upon it hot flowing water before it be cold that the Silver Section 12 may not settle it self too hard on the Gold and turn to Cristals and though hot boyling water will dissolve those Crystals yet 't is better it may not be but be soon dulcified Likewise if it be neglected so that the Gold should come too white out of the separation and were not of a high Content then it is by the Cement as in next Sculpture is signified to be perfectly cleansed But that you may understand the Labour of the Separation and how the Ovens and separating Glasses use to stand you will also see in the following Sculpture Sculpture XXIV Deciphered 1. The Tower of the Athanor 2.
The Side-Ovens upon which the Copels are placed on Sand. 3. The Glass Bottle for Separation covered with Helmets 3. 3. 4. The Receivers which are laid to the Helmets 5. How Aqua fortis is by them to be drawn from the Silver 6. An Iron Instrument by which the Glasses are to be taken out and in 7. The Person that attends the Operation of the Glasses in figure 5. 8. Another person to take off and put on Glasses upon the shelves 9. The Ingredients prepared in a dish or pan CHAP. XXXIII When the Gold is abstracted how the Silver is to be brought again out of Aqua fort Section 1 IF one have dissolv'd Silver from the Gold through Aqua fortis and the Aqua fort hath suck'd the same into it self and if one would bring it again out of the Aqua fortis this may be done several wayes The common Method is this which is used by most Goldsmiths if they separate but a little silver and require no great pains then they take the settled water with which they have purified the Gold as is said before and put it in an half Bottle made of Copper to the silvery Aqua fortis only observe the right measure for if the setled water be but little and on the contrary if the silvery Aqua fort be too much then it will begin to work too hard in the Copper Bottle to prevent this put into the Copper Bottle to the settled water and to the inweighed Aqua fort a little more warm common flowing water and then it will not so much hurt the Copper-bottle and the Silver will quickly and apparently fall down in the Copper Bottle Let it stand a while then put the Copper Bottle together with the water and fallen Silver over the fire let it boyl a little then the Silver will the better and closer come together When this is done then cause it to settle and pour the clean water off which will be fair clear and transparent put the silver Calx into an half Glass bottle or if it be much then into a clean Kettle and pour clean warm water upon it two or three times until the silver Calx be clean and pure and see that the Silver alwayes settle well and preserve it carefully together that nothing be lost Section 2 The Reason why the silver Calx must be dulcified is Because the sharpness which the Aqua fort hath left in it may come out of it for the sharpness doth rob some of the silver in the fire by drawing over the Helm as shall be shewn Now when the water is drain'd from the silver Calx then put it in a clean Copper half Bottle and let the water of it boil off and evaporate that it may be very dry then put it in a Crucible set it in the fire in a wind-Oven or before the bellows according as it is more or less make it not too suddenly hot that if there be left by the silver Calx any Spirits of the Aqua fort that they may evaporate before the silver Calx floweth and the waste of the silver may become the smaller which waste is not often small and comes all from the spirits for if they could be retained in the separating Glass then little would go off from the Silver Section 3 After the melting together of the Silver in the Crucible then grain it or cast it in an Ingot as you please this is the old manner of the Goldsmiths and common Separators to cleanse the silver out of the Aqua fort and this silver which is thus settled out of the Aqua fort is not fine silver but it worketh on the Copper from which it is to be cleansed and the stronger the water is in cleansing the more it will touch and mingle among the silver Calx and it holds commonly a Mark of cleansed silver and this thus cast holds near 15 Loth of fine silver Section 4 The settled blew water is to be used again with profit when you distil Aqua fort and have put the prepared stuff into a Jug whereof Iron ones are best then put of this blew water two pound upon ten pound of calcin'd stuff as soon as this is done set the Helm upon it for it will presently go off it self without any fire and lay the Receiver before without any sweet Water lute it well every where and let it first go over the flegm then increase the fire till all the spirits are driven into the water as is said when we spake of burning the Aqua fort then you may put this blew Aqua fort into a great Culb glass which is cut off in the Neck and luted over and evaporate the moist flegm with the fire then it will become stronger and so put it to the stuff in the distilling But the Aqua fort which comes of it when the blew water is put upon the calcined stuff hath not so much feces in cleansing and seething down and is not so unclean as other common Aqua fort which is burnt of other stuff because the blew water becomes Metallick by the Copper in the precipitation and hath purified it self in the Jug or Bottle Section 5 Know also That one may in a glazed or earthen Vessel if it be good and will hold Aqua fort and Oyl cleanse the used silvery Aqua fort and the silver precipitated in it namely one must put such Aqua fort together with the clear water as aforesaid mixed in the glazed or earthen Vessel and lay in it red hot pieces of Copper and set the Vessel warm then the silver will quickly fall to the Bottom but 't is better to cleanse it in a Copper Vessel which may be done in a coppery or Section 6 earthen vessel yet in the cleansing of it put iron Lamins then the silver will come clean out of the water as Experience teaches CHAP. XXXIV How Aqua fortis drawn from Silver may be used again Section 1 THE Second manner of bringing the Silver out of Aqua fort and to draw off Aqua fort so that it may be used again for Separation is a singular ART and Dexterity 't is thus Put the Silverish Aqua fort in a good glass Bottle which is luted over and wherein Aqua fort may be distilled set it in one of the Ovens which are for distilling and luted over but in an Athanor is the best and not so dangerous as in a common Oven let it be dry then put the silverish Aqua fort through a long glazed Tunnel warm and not cold into the Bottle then set a Helm upon it but not so strong luted over lay the Receiver before and lute the Joynings over so that you may take the Helm off again as you will hear hereafter And being thus set in then dress the Athanor and put fire and Coals in it And by the Instruments of which we have spoken above first give it a gentle fire and let the
on it nor casting fresh Coals into it for the Coals in the Athanor will follow one another and keep the fire all the time in due heat as you please But if there be cause to continue the heat longer than 24 hours then put more Coals into the Athanor and so keep the fire as long as is needful Section 4 Now concerning the Cement ovens which have been used formerly those I leave in their esteem and when you have try'd both the Difference will be found Section 5 But if one cannot quickly have such an Oven to the Cementing then put the prepared Cement between Tile-stones in a clean Coal-fire and let it glow its time as hereafter but so that it may not melt Thus you may do all the cementing but be diligent and careful of the coals Now the form of the cement Ovens may be seen in the Sculpture following Sculpture XXVII Deciphered 1. The Athanor and lower Mouth-hole 2. The upper Mouth-hole 3. The Edge upon which the iron Plate doth lye on the iron Grates 4. The Registers or Air-holes above the Grates 5. The little air-holes near the top of the Athanor 6. The stopples for the Registers or air-holes 7. A Test fitted for the Athanor 8. 9. Cement Pots 10. An hook to stir the Coals 11. A person that attends the Furnace and works CHAP. XLI How Rhenish Gold is to be Cemented Section 1 RHENISH Gold to cement it either in Ingot or Plate must be beaten thin the thinner the better and cut it in littles pieces as broad as Crowns But if it be Rhenish Gilders which you would have cemented and clean then beat them a little thinner but if there be not much need of that then beat them whole Upon such beaten Gold or Gold Gilders the Cementing is to be done thus Take Section 2 16 Loths of powder of an old dry Tile not too hard burnt neither too sandy then 8 Loths of Salt and 4 Loths of white Vitriol grind these Ingredients all together small and moisten them with Vrine or sharp Vinegar like Copel Ashes so is the Cement powder prepared Then take that which you intend to cement glow it first in the fire and let it be cool then spread some of the Powder in a Test or Pot which is to be of an equal wideness a finger thick and lay the Gold which you must first moisten in urine or vinegar upon the cement Powder one piece near the other as broad as the Test then spread upon it again some of the moistned Cement Pouder half a finger thick and upon it as now is mention'd the urine moistned Gold lay one lay upon another until the Test or Pot be full cover it over with the Cement pouder the thickness of one's Finger that one may see the Gold then put over it another Test or cover very well luted that no vapour or spirits may go out then set the Test or Pot with the Gold and cement thus prepared in a Cement Oven and observe that it may stand in like heat 24 hours and glow brown that the Gold may not flow in the cement to prevent Dammage for if it should flow in the Cement then the Silver and Copper which the Cement hath extracted may suck in the Gold again and thereby all pains of beating and Cementing will be in vain Section 3 Now when the Gold hath stood in the Cement 24 hours then shut the Oven every where and let it be cool then take it out and open it and wash the Cement Pouder off with warm water then the Gold will be found very near 23 Carats on the Content and if you will have it higher Gold then do the Gold over again with another singular fresh Cement to which take 16 loths of Tile-pouder and 8 Loths of Salt and 4 loths of white Vitriol one loth of Salt-petre and one loth of Verdigrise and let it cement again as before 24 hours do this till the Gold is very clean and high to your delight It is done well in a few hours but when you have spare time let it stand the 24 hours 't is then better and surer But how much properly every Cement makes the Gold better the proof will shew Section 4 If one lay Rhenish Guilders whole in the Cement and cement it then there will not only come silver off from it and Copper but it will come to be of the Content of the Hungarish Gold yet they retain their Impression and Circumscription only they become lighter as much as Copper and Silver have been in them in this manner is to be cleansed through the Cement a light Gold in an Hungarish Content only observe if you have according to your pleasure made it higher through the Cement then you must boil the cemented Gold at last in clear water or lye until all the sharpness come off from it so it will become cleaner than by washing only This you must do with all Cements so you will receive Gold as high as your desire is CHAP. XLII Another Cement upon light or mean Gold Section 1 UPON light Gold alwayes the first Cement must be made of two parts of the pouder of Tyle and one part Hungarish or other Salt but to the other shall be taken two Ingredients viz. of Virdigrise Lapis Haematites and calcined Vitriol as much of the one as the other and Vrine boiled very dry and small beaten thus the Gold will become high and fine CHAP. XLIII A good Common Cement for all Golds Section 1 TAKE fourteen loths of Tyle-powder 4 loths of Haematites one loth of Crocum Martis one loth of Verdigrise six loths of white Vitriol and three loths of Salt-petre Grind them all small and the Gold with Vrine moistned and as before after the first Cement to be cemented and it gives a very fine Gold Some use among this and other Cements Antimony and Sal Gemmae this is left to every ones freedom but Reason tells us That if one cement the Gold right as it may be with 2 3 or 4 of those Ingredients and that it is not needful to take above 7 or 8 of them for I have found it so But if you will do something more for the Graduation sake it may be done for it is certain That every Gold which is very clean and high brings his right Gold-Graduation and fine natural right Gold-colour with it self but one may give the Gold besides this a high colour that it may excell with this colour all other high Golds. But in my Judgment the same looks not so lovely as a Gold which hath with it self a high fine Colour CHAP. XLIV More Instructions for Cementing Section 1 WHEN the Gold is cemented and almost clean then some do use this Method they put the same Cemented Gold into an other Cement made of four parts of the Pouder of Tile one part of Sal Armoniack one part of Sal Gemmae and one of Salt all small
of it in the inside and how the pots and crucibles are to be placed in it 2. The little brass Ovens are to be placed in the other 3. How the Pots and crucibles are to be formed 4. The shovel to take up the beaten Lapis Calaminaris stone which is to be mixt with Copper for the making of Brass 5. The tongs by which the Pots are to be set in and taken out 6. The holes in the Oven 7. The pieces of the Britanish stone or Lapis Calaminaris unbeaten 8. The place for the workman that sets in the Pots Sculpture XXXV Thus I conclude the Third BOOK concerning Copper Oars and its Labour with other necessary Instructions appertaining to it and the Reader may consider further upon them as also of other things which he may have occasion to use The END of the Third Book OF Lead OARS TIN ANTIMONY QUICKSILVER IRON STEEL and the LOADSTONE BOOK IV. CHAP. I. Of Lead Oars THIS Book shews how to prove Lead Section 1 Oar for Lead and how the common or unseparable light Lead Oars are to be smelted in the great smelting Work next how to prove an Oar for Antimony and for Spelter and how to bring the Spelter out again Also to try Tin-stones for Tin and Quick silver Oar for Quick silver Also of Iron stone and Steel stone for Iron and Steel with some Instruments for Tin sope works and trying of Tin stone in the little Oven and also of the wonderful properties of the Magnet or Loadstone Now concerning Lead oars they are usually to be well Section 2 known among the other Metal oars for they are mostly grey heavy bright of colour like the Lead it self and from Section 3 its brightness is called bright oar and such bright colored Section 4 Lead oars are the richest and contain above half lead then there is white lead oar like a Sand-stone and red lead Section 5 oar like a reddish clay these Two viz. the white and red are heavy but not so rich in lead as the bright also Section 6 yellow lead oar mixt with grey which is called the Lead ram These and such like Oars are counted the smooth-flowing and deft oars and the heavyer they are the more they yield in lead Section 7 But the lead oars which are poor and taken from flinty blendy or mountainous places are either visibly or invisibly insperg'd or sprinkled with brightness like the Lead oar at Goslar and are very heavy yet commonly no visible Section 8 brightness in them they are somewhat hard and unflowing yet they do partly separate and purify in beating and washing but partly they do stick fast in the water that one with the other remain unseparated CHAP. II. How to prove defty-lead Oars for Lead Section 1 PROVING of Lead oars do require different observations as in other oars therefore the pure-soft and flowing-lead oars you must prove thus first grind the oar small and weigh of it two centners and put it in a crucible with twice so much fluss which is made of Copper oars with a little Sandiver and mingle it with a little filed Iron after this put also on the top of the Crucible a half square finger high of common Salt press it down a little and cover the Crucible and lute the joynings with a thin Clay that no coals fall into the crucible for that will do hurt especially in the Lead-Proof by reason the fluss will boil up in the Crucible and the lead will not come together in one grain but in the slacks like grains When your Crucibles is thus prepared with the proof then set it in a little Oven prepared for the proof of the Copper Oars put fire in it and when the Crucible Section 2 is glowing blow very hard with a hand Bellows that the proof may have a strong heat so that it need not stand long then take out the Crucible and let it be cold then beat it asunder and you will find below a grain of Lead so much as the 2 centner-proof-weights will yield then draw up the Proof-weights and you will see how many centners of the bright or deft-lead Oar will yield a centner of lead But to this proof must be added filed Iron that the Section 3 Antimony which is in the raw lead-Oar may touch the Iron rather than the lead for if it had no Iron to consume it would begin on the weak Lead therefore in many places in the great fire old Iron or Iron scales slacks and sinders are to be added to the melting whereby more Lead is produced it hath also this service in melting that some Lead yields foul and unclean vvork which by the Addition of the Iron becomes clean for the Antimony or remaining Sulphur vvill give it self in the melting in the Lead-Kilns to the Iron and will come away that so the lead may be pure But some Assayers pretend to set the Grain-lead Section 4 upon a Test which in proving is found below in the crucible and let it drive so it vvill become clean which is false for the Lead being a vveak volatile Metal easily consumes it self in the fire therefore I judge that vvhen the proof hath once suffered the fire the Lead vvill become good and clean unless the grain of the Proof be not clean and that there doth hang on the same Lead ravv glimmer or stone which is a sign that the Proof hath not received its due heat which ought to be observ'd by the Assayer and then he must make the proof once more CHAP. III. How to prove an undefty Lead-Oar for Lead BUT the right lead Oars which have with them some flint or other harsh stuff they prove thus Beat the lead Oar into pieces as small as grains of hemp and weigh of them 2 centners and set them in an Assay test in a proof Oven and roast them but make it not too hot at first that it may not run together like Sinders and do just as is above mentioned with the Copper-proof then grind the roast-Oar very small mingle it with the fluss covered with salt and you need no filed Iron to this for it hath two contrary Sulphurs which consume one another so that the lead will remain sure then boyl the proof in the little oven before the bellows as before thus the lead will be right in the proof CHAP. IV. How to prove poor separable Oar by boyling it and trying it by smelting Section 1 MANY times also Silver containing Lead glimmer do break in the Oven being insperged with stony-Oar but when you have a separable Oar let it separate it self from the glimmer in the water viz. when the Oars are beaten that they may be drawn in washing and cleansing to a pure Oar of these I must mention something for the good of the Mine-workers what difference is to be observed in the beating because oftentimes by Negligence comes dammage but first
be proved the Sculpture following shews Sculpture XXXVIII Deciphered 1. The Tub in which the Lee is to be made out of which Salt-Petre is to be extracted and the Can or Vessel to put water into that Tub. 2. The lesser Tub into which the Vessel doth run 3. 4. The Master with his Ballance by which he proves the goodness of the Lee or Suds 5. The Lamin 6. The Candle 7. Pincers CHAP. IV. How the Lees or Suds shall be made out of the above-mentioned Earths Section 1 IF you will make a Lee of Salt-Petre Earth then boyl it if you have a great quantity and let it be cut open as deep as it is found good after your Proof and put it among one another in a dry place then cause Tubs to be made of the bigness that one may contain 10 Wheel-barrows of Earth so that you may have Lees enough according to the bigness of the boyl-work or greatness of the Kettle now know that there usually appertains to a common great boyl-work when the Kettle weighs two Centners of Copper eight Tubs set them in such order that on every side 4. and so the eight one over against the other must stand so far from one another that one with a Wheel-barrow may run betwixt them and the Tubs must stand an half Ell high from the ground and every one shall have a Tap-hole below and on the side in which may be put a Tap of Wood to be pulled out and there must lay below under the Tubbs a Channel in which the Lee may run together into Tubs or Sinks placed in the ground so as the ground may be higher than the tops of the Tubs Section 2 When the Tubbs are set then lay in every one a bottom of Wood full of holes which doth not lye up from the bottom above two fingers high and upon the same lay a bottom made to it on purpose of Sticks or Reeds which grows by Rivers or Ditches bound together a quarter of an Ell thick but if such stuff cannot be had then put upon the bottom full of holes some chopt Straw a span long and upon the same Straw lay small little Boards that it may remain together thus the Tubs are prepared then run the Earth with a Wheel-Barrow into it and when you can have old long-layen Tanners or Soap-boylers Ashes from old holes put two or three Wheel-barrows full of them below in the bottom then put the other Earth which you have proved and brought in also upon it and so do untill the Tub be full to a span breadth then lay it upon an hurdle or frame of Reeds and tye it fast and let water be poured upon it so much that it may remain standing a good square hand above the Earth but if one could have a convenience of letting the Water upon it with a Channel it were better and do this so long until the Water may remain a good square hand above the Earth and that it may be poured upon the Reeds or Hurdle that no hole may be caused in the Earth but remain even then let the Water stand upon the Earth near 8 hours then let the Lee run gently off below through the Tap-hole till it doth run muddy then pour the first Lee again upon the Earth and so do till it runs clear then run the Lees quite off and retain it and this Lees is called the Weak-Lees Section 3 Then pour upon the once extracted Earth common Water again and let it draw out the other Water which the first Water hath left in the Earth and this that then comes the second time is the after Water and is called watering out and such Water one may use instead of fresh Water upon new Earth and that which runs from it is called raw Lees which is strong enough to boyl and a Centner made of this common Earth doth usually contain 3 to 4 pound of Salt-Petre or above then put the extracted Earth out of the Tubs and renew it again constantly that one may have Lees enough to boyl day and night and need not delay boyling for want of Lees. Section 4 Also there must be set above near the Kettle a Tub out of which may run so much Lees into the Kettle as is boyled that the Kettle may remain continually boyling and always full then boyl this one day and night until a Centner of Lee may be taken out of the Kettle and may contain in the like Proof a quarter of a Centner or 25 pounds of Salt-Petre which may be done in two daies and one night Section 5 Then take two Tubs more prepared with bottoms full of holes and the sticks or red bottoms as aforesaid only above the stuff must be laid again a bottom full of holes and put straw upon it and then Ashes of good Wood of the best Elm mingle it together and moisten it with good warm Lees before it be put into the Tubs then being prepared put it into the Tubs an Ell high above the straw but if you can have the Ashes for a small price 't were better to put them together in it and then pour upon them the boyled Lees containing 25 pound boyling hot water let it run gently off and it will first come muddy therefore put in more till it run clear Section 6 When all the Lees is gone through both Ashes which is done that the Ashes may take the fatness of the Lees and become fit for washing and so retain of that which runs first off a part and put upon the extracted Ashes common hot raw Lees and let the Ashes be watered out with the same Lees which goes the second time through the Ashes and is called strong Lees then water it out the third time with hot Lees and this is called weak Lees after this the Ashesmay be watered out with common Lees untill the strength comes out of it By the following Sculpture you are taught how the Tubs are to be set and the Lees made and boyld from it Sculpture XXXIX Deciphered 1. The eight Tubs into which the Petre-Earth is to be put 2. The Pipe with a Brass Cock by which the Water is let into the eight Tubs 3. The Channel by which the Lees falls from each Tub and so into the Receiver 4. The Sink or great Receiver of the Lees. 5. The ninth Tub from which the Lees runs into the Kettle 6. The Oven wherein the Kettle stands 7. The Kettle on the top of the Oven 8. The Iron Door by which the Wood is to be put into the Oven under the Kettle 9. The Wind-hole in the bottom of the Oven 10. The Hole where the Oven may be seen into 11. The Iron Grate on which the Wood doth lay 12. The form of the Door by which the Oven may be lookt into being more largely Described than in Fig. 10. CHAP. V. How to Boyl Lees or Suds TAKE the weak Lees and put it in the Kettle and
sacris numeris and Jonston de sacris Arboribus with Sculptures I wish some would write De sacris Instrumentis Musicae with their Sculptures especially of those wherein metals are imployed for doubtless the subject would afford excellent variety But besides this musical part of Metals the word Bell is also applyed to a Glass with a round bottom and long neck which the Chimists call a matrass glass or long Bell Sculpture I. BELLOWS T. Blaszbalgh and to blow Geblasz L. Follis follescere of these there are three sorts mentioned in Erckern 1. the Philosophical Bellows 2 The great Bellows which requires eight Ox-hides and 3. the common Bellows which Smiths also use and others for common fires as you often find in the Sculptures and all these in imitation of the nature of a Cow Beast which in drawing in and forcing out her breath is said to Bellow BLANCH T. Blanck Weiss and Bluk all signifying white or a white Silver or Tin when it is melted for the meer Oar of Tin is of a ruddy colour and white when melted and this by the Translator of Weckerus is called Blenck which word I like though I find it not in any Dictionary for I had a Mannor in Suffolk called by the name of Blenches and it appeared so in my Antient Court Rolls for that the Soyl of the Mannor consisted of a white Clay and Chalky temper and the next Village is Wisset which consisted also of the like Soil Blench and Wiess both signifying white so that Blench and Blanch have the same signification of white and so the word is used for the whitening blenching or blanching of Silver the word is also used to Almonds viz. when the superficies or dull part is taken from them by boyling Water they are then called blencht or blancht Almonds See Bone Ashes BISMUTH is a Crude Oar or kind of Silver Marchasite and of a white hard and brittle Body and I conceive is the same which Erckern calls also Wismut or Wismuth Oar and Spelter l. 4. c. 10. and sometimes called Tin Glass See their Alphabets BITUMEN is accounted both among Gums and Pixes and also among Sulphurs but that which Erckern speaks of intends Brimstone which the T. calls Schwebel L. Sulphur and this is either Natural from the Lake called Asphaltis where once Sodom and Gomorrah stood also from the vomiting of the Hill Aetna and Visuvius or Artificial made by Fire See Minerals BLACK See Colours BLEND or Blent T. Ablinderne L. Miscere A. to Mingle that is when Metals are blended or mingled in lumps l. 4. c. 2. c. And this word is much used in the North parts of England for mixt or mingled matter which some call Hots-Potch BLEW See Colours BLINK T. Blinkin or Blicken L. Micare and Nictare A. to Shine it is commonly used to those that are blear Ey'd or often twinkle with their Eyes it is also applyed to dead and sharp Beer and to the brouss or loppage of Trees given to Deer see Skinner but in our Author only applyed to bright Oars or melted Metals l. 1. c 23. c. l. 2. c. 24. viz. blink Gold and blink Silver that is bright or clear Gold or Silver BLOUD T. Blut L. Sanguis apply'd to the Bloud of Oxen c. and is often mentioned as a good mixture for Instruments and Cements for Metalick uses See l. 2. c. 20. and Ox. BOYLING T. Seiden and Kochen L. Coquens l. 5. c. 7. s 1. we have many words for this tending to the same sence and yet with some Gradations as when any liquid matter begins to stir with the heat of the Fire we call it simporing it may be from simpo a Pot wherein the old Roman and Gretian Priests were wont to drink their cheering Liquor and therfore the word simporing is used for smiling and when it stirs more 't is called seething which differs little from the T. Seiden when it stirs to bubble it is called Boyling from bulla and bullire but antiently Boyling was called Plawing from L. Plaudere to rejoyce because the fire had the full effect of the heated liquor and therefore the Psalmist saith Plaudent Flumina vola let the Floods clap their Hands i. e. let them plaw or rejoyce in their plawing or boyling waves but I do not find my sense of the word plawing confirmed in any Dictionary as I can now peruse but this I shall affirm for the Sence and Antiquity of the Word That there is a Marsh in South-Walsham in Norfolk belonging to the now Duke of that County which with other Marshes were gain'd from the Sea in the time of the old Romans as 't is generally said to which my Grandfather and my self were Tenants for near an 100 years and in these Marshes there was one parcel called by the name of Plawing-Well Marsh within 3 miles of Yarmouth and about a mile from the Sea and the Marsh is so called and stiled in Writings from a Well or place in it of about two yards broad and about 18 Inches deep only in the middle of it is a little hole the bottom of which I could not then fathom by any Pole or Instrument that I could get and from that hole the water constantly bubbles boils up and playes which was the word used in the Lease and in other Records sufficient to justify the Antiquity of the word Now having spoken what I can of the word give me leave to speak of the water which keeps at one scantling neither swelling higher nor decreasing but if it decrease at any time it foretels a dearth so that the motions of it cannot be attributed to the neighboring Motions of the Sea which are regular lunary or ventilary nor any other cause that I could find unless it be from a constant motion of Cattle grazing in these and the neighboring marshes which being only thin grassy coverings of the waters those beasts by quassation and constant compressure of such flexible grounds may easily cause this Ebolition or plawing I confess I am the more content with this reason because we daily see that a little Compressure in a large vessel of liquids will make it rise and run over and we often find in solid Bodies Compressure will have great effects at distance as in the year 1648. when the Committeehouse at Norwich was blown up by the firing of 40 barrels of Powder it caused by compressure such a motion in the Earth that at Thorp Market 15 miles from Norwich near Cromer Mr. Allen who dwelt there in good repute told me that as he was sitting in his Parlor there he was very sensible of the quaking of the Earth which upon Information of what had past the day before at Norwich and comparing the punctual time he found the shaking was caused by that Gun-pouder and I being then in the Country soon after went into the City where I observ'd that all the lower windows of the City-houses were shattered by the