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A19160 A curious treatise of the nature and quality of chocolate. VVritten in Spanish by Antonio Colmenero, doctor in physicke and chirurgery. And put into English by Don Diego de Vades-forte; Curioso tratado de la naturaleza y calidad del chocolate. English Colmenero de Ledesma, Antonio.; Wadsworth, James, 1604-1656? 1640 (1640) STC 5570; ESTC S108510 14,787 28

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being taken moderately as shall be declared hereafter and it having beene made a moneth at the least as is already proved And so I know not why any man having made experience of this Confection which is composed as it ought to be for every particular should speake ill of it Besides where it is so much used the most if not all as well in the Indies as in Spaine find it agreeth wel with them He of Marchena had no ground in saying that it did cause Opilations For if it were so the Liver being obstructed it would extenuate its subject and by experience we see to the contrary that it makes fat the reason whereof I shall shew hereafter And this shall suffice for the second Poynt The third Point HAving treated in the first poynt of the definition of Chocolate the quality of the Cacao and of the other Ingredients and in the second Point of the Complexion which results from the mixture of them There remaines now in the third poynt to shew the way how to mingle them And first I will bring the best Receipt and the most to the purpose that I could find out although it be true which I have said that one Receipt cannot be given which shall be proper for all that is to be understood of those who are sicke for those that are strong and in health this may serve and for the other as I have said in the Conclusion of the first Poynt every one make choyse of the Ingredients as they may be usefull to this or that part of his body The Receipt is this TO every 100. Cacaos you must put two cods of the * long red Pepper of which I have spoken before and are called in the Indian Tongue Chilparlagua and in stead of those of the Indies you may take those of Spaine which are broadest and least hot One handfull of Annis-seed Orejuelas which are otherwise called Vinacaxlidos and two of the flowers called Mechasuehil if the Belly be bound But in stead of this in Spaine we put in sixe Roses of Alexandria beat to Powder One Cod of Campeche or Logwood Two Drams of Cinamon Almons and Hasle-Nuts of each one Dozen Of white Sugar halfe a pound Of Achiote enough to give it the colour And if you cannot have those things which come from the Indies you may make it with the rest The way of Compounding THe Cacao and the other Ingredients must be beaten in a Morter of Stone or ground upon a broad stone which the Indians call Metate and is onely made for that use But the first thing that is to be done is to dry the Ingredients all except the Achiote with care that they may be beaten to powder keeping them still in stirring that they be not burnt or become blacke and if they be over-dried they will be bitter and lose their vertue The Cinamon and the long red Pepper are to be first beaten with the Annis-seed and then beate the Cacao which you must beate by a little and little till it be all powdred and sometimes turne it round in the beating that it may mixe the better And every one of these Ingredients must be beaten by it selfe and then put all the Ingredients into the Vessell where the Cacao is which you must stirre together with a spoone and then take out that Paste and put it into the Morter under which you must lay a little fire after the Confection is made But you must be very carefull not to put more fire than will warme it that the unctuous part doe not dry away And you must also take care to put in the Achiote in the beating that it may the better take the colour You must Searse all the Ingredients but onely the Cacao and if you take the shell from the Cacao it is the better and when you shall find it to be well beaten and incorporated which you shall know by the shortnesse of it then with a spoone take up some of the Paste which will be almost liquid and so either make it into Tablets or put it into Boxes and when it is cold it will be hard To make the Tablets you must put a spoonefull of the paste upon a piece of paper the Indians put it upon the leaf of a Planten-tree where being put into the shade it growes hard and then bowing the paper the Tablet falls off by reason of the fatnesse of the paste But if you put it into any thing of earth or wood it sticks fast and will not come off but with scraping or breaking In the Indies they take it two severall waies The one being the common way is to take it hot with Atolle which was the Drinke of the Ancient Indians the Indians call Atolle pappe made of the flower of Maiz and so they mingle it with the Chocolate and that the Atolle may be more wholsome they take off the Huskes of the Maiz which is windy and melancholy and so there remaines onely the best and most substantiall part Now to returne to the matter I say that the other Moderne drinke which the Spaniards use so much is of two sorts The one is that the Chocolate being dissolved with cold water and the scumme taken off and put into another Vessell the remainder is put upon the fire with Sugar and when it is warme then powre it upon the Scumme you tooke off before and so drinke it The other is to warme the water and then when you have put it into a pot or dish as much Chocolate as you thinke fit put in a little of the warme water and then grind it well with the molinet and when it is well ground put the rest of the warme water to it and so drinke it with Sugar Besides these former wayes there is one other way which is to put the Chocolate into a pipkin with a little water and let it boyle well till it be dissolved and then put in sufficient water and sugar according to the quantity of the Chocolate and then boyle it againe untill there comes an oyly summe upon it and then drinke it But if you put too much fire it will runne over and spoyle But in my opinion this last way is not so wholsome though it pleaseth the pallate better because when the Oily is divided from the earthy part which remaines at the bottome it causeth Melancholy and the oily part loosens the stomacke and takes away the appetite There is another way to drinke Chocolate which is cold and it takes its name from the principall Ingredient and is called Cacao which they use at feasts to refresh themselves and it is made after this manner The Chocolate being dissolved in water with the Molinet take off the scumme or crassy part which riseth in greater quantity when the Cacao is older and more putrified The scumme is laid aside by it selfe in a little dish and then put sugar into that part from whence you took the scumme and powre it
from on high into the scumme and so drinke it cold And this drinke is so cold that it agreeth not with all mens stomacks for by experience we finde the hurt it doth by causing paines in the stomacke and especially to Women I could deliver the reason of it but I avoyd it because I will not be tedious There is another way to drinke it cold which is called Cacao Penoli and it is done by adding to the same Chocolate having made the Confection as is before set downe so much Maiz dryed and well ground and taken from the Huske and then well mingled in the Morter with the Chocolate it falls all into flowre or dust And so these things being mingled as is said before there riseth the Scum and so you take and drink it as before There is another way which is a shorter and quicker way of making it for men of businesse who cannot stay long about it and it is more wholsome and it is that which I use That is first to set some water to warm and while it warms you throw a Tablet or some Chocolate scraped and mingled with sugar into a little Cup and when the water is hot you power the water to the Chocolate and then dissolve it with the Molinet and then without taking off the scum drinke it as is before directed The fourth Part. THere remaines to be handled in the last Poynt of the Quantity which is to be drunke at what Time and by what persons because if it be drunk beyond measure not onely of Chocolate but of all other drinkes or meates though of themselves they are good and wholsome they may be hurtfull And if any finde it Opilative it comes by the too much use of it as when one drinkes over much Wine in stead of comforting and warming himselfe he breedes and nourisheth cold diseases because Nature cannot overcome it nor turne so great a quantity into good nourishment So he that drinks much Chocolate which hath fat parts cannot make distribution of so great a quantity to all the parts and that part which remaines in the slender veines of the Liver must needs cause Opilations and Obstructions To avoyd this inconvenience you must onely take five or sixe ounces in the morning if it be in winter and if the party who takes it be Cholericke in stead of ordinary water let him take the distilled water of Endive The same reason serves in Summer for those who take it physically having the Liver hot and obstructed If his Liver be cold and obstructed then to use the water of Rubarb And to conclude you may take it till the Moneth of May especially in temperate dayes But I doe not approve that in the Dog-dayes it should be taken in Spaine unlesse it bee one who by custome of taking it receives no prejudice by it And if he be of a hot Constitution and that hee have neede to take it in that season let it as is said before be mingled with water of Endive and once in foure dayes and chiefely when he finds his stomacke in the morning to be weake and fainting And though it be true that in the Indies they use it all the yeare long it being a very hot Countrey and so it may seeme by the same reason it may be taken in Spaine First I say that Custome may allow it Secondly that as there is an extraordinary proportion of heat so there is also of moisture which helpes with the exorbitant heate to open the pores and so dissipates and impoverisheth our substance or naturall vigor by reason wherof not only in the morning but at any time of the day they use it without prejudice And this is most true that the excessive heate of the Countrey drawes out the naturall heat and disperseth that of the stomacke and of the inward parts Insomuch that though the weather be never so hot yet the stomacke being cold it usually doth good I do not onely say this of the Chocolate which as I have proved hath a moderate heat But if you drink pure wine be the weather never so hot it hurts not but rather comforts the stomack and if in hot weather you drinke water the hurt it doth is apparent in that it cooles the stomacke too much from whence comes a viciated Concoction and a thousand other inconveniences You must also observe that it being granted as I have said that there are earthy parts in the Cacao which fall to the bottome of the Cup when you make the drinke divers are of the opinion that that which remaines is the best and more substantiall and they hurt them selves not a little by drinking of it For besides that it is an earthy substance thick and stopping it is of a melancholy Nature and therefore you must avoyd the drinking of it contenting your selfe with the best which is the most substantiall Last of all there rests one difficulty to be resolved formerly poynted at namely what is the cause why Chocolate makes most of them that drinke it fat For considering that all of the Ingredients except the Cacao doe rather extenuate than make fat because they are hot and drye in the third degree For we have already said that the qualities which doe predominate in Cacao are cold and dry which are very unfit to adde any substance to the body Neverthelesse I say that the many unctuous parts which I have proved to be in the Cacao are those which pinguifie and make fat and the hotter ingredients of this Composition serve for a guide or vehicall to passe to the Liver and the other parts untill they come to the fleshy parts and there finding a like substance which is hot and moyst as is the unctuous part converting it selfe into the same substance it doth augment and pinguifie Much more might bee said from the grounds of Philosophy and Physicke but because that is fitter for the Schooles than for this discourse I leave it only give this Caution that in my Receipt you may adde Mellon-seeds and seeds of Pompions of Valencia dryed and beaten into powder where there is any heat of the Liver or Kidnyes And if there be any obstructions of the Liver or Spleene with any cold distemper you may mixe the powder of Ceterach to which you may adde Amber or Muske to please the scent And it will be no small matter to have pleased all with this Discourse Errata IN the Title of the Dedication read And one of the Lords of his Majesties most Honourable Privy Counsell of Ireland Page 3. line 14. for mixe read mixed p. ib. l. 32. for that it r. that in it p. 6. l. 19. for unctuous r. unctuous p. 8. l. 2. r the Marginall note at Tevasco p. ib. l. 11. r. the Marginall Note at red pepper p. 13. l. 27. r. owne effects p. 15. l. 12. r. every one may FINIS A red roote like Madder Chile Tabasco A graine like Millet * Maiz or Indian Wheat Hicara the shell of a Nut to drinke in * Chiles
see in the Cacao it selfe which if it be not stirred and compounded as aforesaid to make the Chocolate But eating of it as it is in the fruite as the Criollas eate it in the Indies it doth notably obstruct and cause stoppings for no other cause but this that the divers substances which it containes are not perfectly mingled by the mastication onely but require the artificiall mixture which we have spoken of before Besides our Adversary should have considered and called to his memory the first rudiments of Philosophy That à dicto secundum quid ad dictum simpliciter non valet consequentia As it is not enough to say the Black-a-Moore is white because his teeth are white for hee may bee blacke though he have white teeth and so it is not enough io say that the Cacao is stopping and therefore the Confection which is made of it is also stopping The Tree which beares this fruit is so delicate and the earth where it growes is so extreame hot that to keepe the tree from being consumed by the Sun they first plant other trees and when they are growne up to a good heighth then they plant the Cacao-trees that when it first shewes it selfe above the ground those trees which are already growne may shelter it from the Sunne and the fruit doth not grow naked but ten or twelue of them are in one Gorde or Codde which is of the bignes of a great blacke Figge or bigger and of the same forme and colour There are two sorts of Cacao the one is common which is of a gray colour inclining towards red the other is broader and bigger which they call Patlaxte and this is white and more drying whereby it causeth watchfulnes and drives away sleepe and therefore it is not so usefull as the ordinary This shall suffice to be said of the Cacao And as for the rest of the ingredients which make our Chocolaticall Confection there is notable variety because some doe put into it blacke Pepper and also Tauasco which is not proper because is is so hot and dry but onely for one who hath a very cold Liver And of this opinion was a certaine Doctor of the Universite of Mexico of whom a Religious man of good credit told me that he finding the ordinary round Pepper was not fit to bring his purpose about and to the end he might discover whether the long red pepper were more proper he made triall upon the liver of a Sheepe and putting the ordinary pepper on one side and the red pepper on the other after 24. houres the part where the ordinary pepperlay was dryed up and the other part continued moist as if nothing had bin throwen upon it The Receipt of him who wrote at Marchena is this Of Cacaos 700 of white Sugar one pound and a halfe Cinnamon 2. ounces of long red pepper 14. of Cloves halfe an ounce Three Cods of the Logwood or Campeche tree or in stead of that the weight of 2. Reals or a shilling of Annis-seeds as much of Achiote as will give it the colour which is about the quantity of a Hasell-nut Some put in Almons kernels of Nuts and orange-flower-Orenge-flower-water Concerning this Receipt I shall first say This shooe will not fit every foote but for those who have diseases or are inclining to be infirme you may either adde or take away according to the necessity and temperature of every one and I hold it not amisse that Sugar bee put into it when it is drunke so that it be according to the quantity I shall hereafter set downe And sometimes they make Tablets of the Sugar and the Chocolate together which they doe onely to please the Pallats as the Dames of Mexico doe use it and they are there sold in shops and are confected and eaten like other sweet-meats For the Cloves which are put into this drinke by the Author aforesaid the best Writers of this Composition use them not peradventure upon this reason that although they take away the ill savour of the mouth they binde as a learned Writer hath exprest in these verses Foetorem emendant or is Cariophila foedum Constring unt ventrem primaque membrajuvant And because they are binding and hot and dry in the third degree they must not be used though they helpe the chiefe parts of Concoction which are the stomacke and the Liver as appeares by the Verses before recited The husks or Cods of Logwood or Campeche are very good and smell like Fennell and every one puts in of these because they are not very hot though it excuse not the putting in of Annis-seed as sayes the Author of this Receipt for there is no Chocolate without it because it is good for many cold diseases being hot in the third degree and to temper the coldnesse of the Cacao and that it may appeare it helpes the indisposition of cold parts I will cite the Verses of one curious in this Art Morbosos renes vesicam guttura vuluam Intestina iecur cumque lyene caput Confortat varijsque Anisum subdita mortis Membra istud tantam vim leve semen habet The quantity of a Nut of the Achiote is too little to colour the quantity made according to his Receipt and therefore he that makes it may put it in as much as he thinkes fit Those who adde Almons and Nuts doe not ill because they give it more body and substance then Maiz or Paniso which others use and for my part I should alwayes put it in to Chocolate for Almonds besides what I have said of them before are moderately hot and have a thin juice but you must not use new Almons as a learned Author sayes in these Verses Dat modicè calidum dulcisque Amigdalasuccum Et tenuem inducunt damna nova And the small Nuts are not ill for our purpose for they have almost the temper which the Almons have onely because they are dryer they come nearer the temper of Choler and doe therefore strengthen the Belly and the Stomacke being dryed for so they must be used for the Confection and they preserve the head from those vapours which rise from the Belly as it appeares by the said Author in these Verses Bilis Avellanamsequitur sedroborat aluum Ventris à fumis liberat assacaput And therefore they are proper for such as are troubled with ventuosities and Hypochondriacall vapours which offend the brain and there cause such troublesome dreames and sad imaginations Those who mixe Maiz or Paniso in the Chocolate doe very ill because those graines doe beget a very melancholy Humour as the same Author expresseth in these verses Crassa melancholicum praestant tibi Panica succum Siccant si ponas membra geiantque foris It is also apparantly windy and those which mixe it in this Confection do it onely for their profit by encreasing the quantity of the Chocolate because every Fanega or measure of * Grani containing about a Bushell and