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A07834 An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson Gent. First in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres trauell through the tvvelue dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts. The I. part. Containeth a iournall through all the said twelue dominions: shewing particularly the number of miles, the soyle of the country, the situation of cities, the descriptions of them, with all monuments in each place worth the seeing, as also the rates of hiring coaches or horses from place to place, with each daies expences for diet, horse-meate, and the like. The II. part. Containeth the rebellion of Hugh, Earle of Tyrone, and the appeasing thereof: written also in forme of a iournall. The III. part. Containeth a discourse vpon seuerall heads, through all the said seuerall dominions. Moryson, Fynes, 1566-1630. 1617 (1617) STC 18205; ESTC S115249 1,351,375 915

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outside of the earth Palestina was farre distant from the Equinoctiall line which diuideth the World into equall parts And if Palestina were iust vnder that line yet that all the countries hauing the same Meridian should be the middest of the World as well as Palestina They answered that Dauid saith in his Psalmes In the middest of the World I will worke their saluation To which I replied that the middest of the World was there taken for the face and in the sight of the World so as none should be able to denie it Whereupon they grew angry and said that the Scripture must be beleeued in spite of all Cosmographers and Philosophers It had been vaine to dispute further with them there being not one learned man among these Greekes at Ierusalem And to say truth if you except the Greeke Ilands vnder the Venetians they haue few or no learned men For my part I neuer found in all the vast Empire of Ottoman any learned Greeke but onely one called Milesius who was after made Patriarke of Constantinople And these Greekes as in this point so in all other follow the literall sense of the Scriptures For which cause they also beleeue the corporall presence of Christ in the Sacrament And whereas Saint Paul saith Let the Bishop be the husband of one wife c. they so interpret it as if the Priests wife die within few dayes after his mariage yet he may neuer marry againe The Sorians are so called of Syria in which Prouince they liue hauing their owne Patriarke neither could they euer bee brought to consent to the Roman faith for whatsoeuer the Romanes challenge due to the Seat of S. Peter that they say rather belongeth to them in respect Saint Peter was Bishop of Anttoch They agreed with the Greekes in many things they denie Purgatorie they fast foure Lents in the yeere they permit their Priests to marrie they vse the Greeke tongue in their Diuine seruice and otherwise speake their owne language which I take to be the Arabian tongue In Ierusalem Church they keepe the Sepulchers of Ioseph of 〈◊〉 and of Nicodemus and in the Citie they keepe the house of Saint Marke noted with the figure 37. The Costi are Egyptians dwelling about Numidia They retaine the heresie of Arrius and follow the Ceremonies of the Abissines This I write vpon the report of the Italian Friers who are to be blamed if it be not true These in the Church keepe the Chappell wherein Godfrey and his Regall Family lye buried and the Caue vnder Mount Caluerie where they say the scull of Adam lies and haue also their proper Altar vpon Mount Caluarie The Abissines inhabit the South parts of Africk and they are subiect to their King Preti-Giani They receiued the Christian faith of the Eunuch baptized by Phillip and themselues are baptized not onely with water but with the signe of the Crosse printed in their flesh with hot Iron gathering that fire is as necessary to Baptisme as water out of those words of S. Iohn Baptist I baptise you with water but he shall baptise you with the Spirit and fire Also they vse the Iewes and Mahometans circumcision like wary Notaries who fearing to faile in their assurance neuer think they haue vsed words enough yet doe they greatly hatë the Iewes and thinke their Altars defiled if they doe but looke vpon them They giue the Sacrament of our Lords Supper to very children and they as all the rest excepting the Franks that is Papists giue it in both kindes When they sing Masse or Psalmes they leape and clap their hands and like the Iewes vse Stage-Players actions They vse their owne that is the Egyptian tongue in Diuine seruice and obseruing a Lent of fiftie dayes at one time do greatly maccrate their bodies In the Church they keepe the Chappell adioyning to the Sepulcher and the pillar where they say Christ was crowned with Thornes The Armenians are so called of the Prouince Armenta which they inhabite and they call their chiefe Bishop Catholicon whom they reuerence as another Pope They disagree with the Greekes and rather apply themselues to the Franks yet they keepe not the Feast of Christs birth but fast that day They keepe the Roman Lent but more strictly abstaining from Fish and very Oyle which they vse for butter but vpon some Holy-dayes in that time they eate flesh They mingle no water with the Wine of the Sacrament as the Papists doe but with them they lift vp the bread yea and the Cup also to be worshipped Of old with reseruation of customes they ioyned themselues to the Roman Church but finding the Pope to giue them no helpe against their enemies they quickly fell from him The very Lay men are shaued like Clerkes vpon their heads but in the forme of a Crosse and their Priests keepe the haire of their heads long in two tusts placing therein great Religion In the Church they keepe the pillar where they say the garments of Christ were parted and lots cast vpon his Coate and in the Citie the place where they say Saint lames was beheaded and the house of the High Priest Caiphas vpon Mount Sion The Nestorians are so called of the Monke Nestorius who infected the Persians Tartars and Iewes with his heresie They giue the Sacrament of the Lords Supper in both kindes and that to children as well as men They vse the Caldean tongue in diuine seruice and otherwise the Arabian In the Church they keepe the prison wherein they say Christ was shut vp The Maronites inhabite Phanicia and the Mount of Libanus and they vse the Syrian tongue in their diuine seruice namely as I thinke the Arabian And they said that these men for pouerty were lately fled from Ierusalem Some make mention of a tenth sect namely the lacobites named of Iacob Disciple to the Patriarke of Alexandria who liue mingled among Turkes Tartares inhabiting partly Nubia in Afrike partly the Prouinces of India I remember not to haue seene any such at my being there neither yet to haue heard any mention of them yet others write that they admit circumcision as well as baptisme and besides print the signe of the Crosse by an hot Iron in some conspicuous part of their body that they confesse their sinnes onely to God not to their Priests that they acknowledge but one nature in Christ that in token of their faith they make the signe of the Crosse with one finger and giue the Sacrament of our Lords Supper in both kinds yea to Infants as well as to those who are of full age I cannot omit an old Spanish woman who had for many yeeres liued there locked vp in the Temple lodging euery night at the doore of the sepulcher and hauing her diet by the Friars almes Shee said that shee came to Ierusalem to expiate her sinnesby that holy pilgrimage that shee had then beene there seuen yeeres and in that time had alwaies
Riuer we did see some ten Italian miles distant On the North-side of Ierusalem I cannot say whether beyond Iordan or no we did see many Towers hauing globes of glistering mettall and that very distinctly the day being cleere also we did see the wals of a City neere the Riuer Iordan and they said that it was Ieriche Further towards the North they shewed vs from farre off a place where they say our Sauiour was baptized by Iohn And they affirme vpon experience had that the water of Iordan taken in a pitcher will very long keepe sweet and that it corrupted not though they carried it into forraigne parts This water seemed very cleere till it fell into a Lake where they say Sodome with the other Cities stood of old before they were burnt by fier from Heauen And the day being cleere we did plainely see and much maruell that the cleere and siluer streame of Iordan flowing from the North to the South when in the end it fell into the said Lake became as blacke as pitch The Friers our guides seriously protested that if any liuing thing were cast into this Lake of Sodom it could not be made to sinke whereas any heauy dead thing went presently to the bottome Also that a candle lighted cannot be thrust vnder the water by any force nor be extinguished by the water but that a candle vnlighted will presently sinke I omit for breuities sake many wondrous things they told vs of the putrifaction of the aire and other strange things with such confidence as if they would extort beliefe from vs. We had a great desire to see these places but were discouraged from that attempt by the feare of the Arabians and Moores for they inhabite all these Territories And I said before that the Arabians howsoeuer subiect to the Turk yet exercise continuall robberies with all libertie and impunitie the Turkes being not able to restraine them because they are barbarous and liue farre from their chiefe power where they can easily flye into desart places Yet these Barbarians doe strictly obserue their faith to those that are vnder their protection And all the Merchants chuseone or other of the Arabian Captaines and for a small pension procure themselues to be receiued into their protection which done these Captaines proclaime their names through all their Cities and Tents in which for the most part they liue and euer after will seuerely reuenge any wrong done to them so as they passe most safely with their goods All other men they spoile and make excursions with their leaders and sometime with their King to the sea side as farre as Ioppa and much further within Land spoyling and many times killing all they meet When we returned from Bethania we declined to the North side of Mount Oliuet and came to the ruines of 71 Bethphage where Christ sent for the Colt of an Asse and riding thereupon while the people cried Hosanna to the Highest and laid branches and leaues vnder his feet did enter into Ierusalem Vpon Friday the seuenth of Iune to wards the euening we tooke our iourney to Bethlehem Iuda and we foure lay consorts the Friars by our consent still hauing the priuiledge to be free from these expences deliuered iointly foure zechines to the Friars ours guides for our charges whereof they gaue vs no other account then they did formerly yet they onely disbursed some small rewards since we went on foot and were otherwise tied to satisfie the Friars of the Monastery vnder the name of gift or almes for our diet there but since they vsed vs friendly we would not displease them for so small a matter We went out of the City by the gate of Ioppa on the West side and so along 72 this line passed by a paued causey beyond Mount Sion and then ascended another Mountaine to Bethlehem 73 Here they shew the Garden of Vvia and the Fountaine wherein Bersheba washed her selfe which at that time was drie And from the place where the Tower of Dauid was seated vpon Mount Sion noted with the figure 6 is an easie prospect into this garden 74 Here they show the Tower of Saint Simion 75 Here is a Tree of Terebinth which beares a fruit of a blacke colour like vnto an Oliue yeelding oyle and vnder this tree they say the Virgine did rest when shee carried Christ to be presented in the Temple For which cause the Papists make their beades of this tree and esteeming them holy especially when they haue touched the rest of the monuments they carry them into Europe and giue them to their friends for great presents and holy relikes 76 Here they shew a fountaine called of the Wise-men of the East and they say that the starre did here againe appeare to them after they came from Herod 77 Here they shew the ruines of a house wherein they say that the Prophet Habakcuk dwelt and was thence carried by the haires of the head to feede Daniel in the Lions Den at Babylon 78 Here they shew the Fountaine of the Prophet Elias and the stone vpon which he vsed to sleepe vpon which they shew the print of his head shoulders and other members which prints haue some similitude but no iust proportion of those members From a rock neere this place we did see at once both Ierusalem Bethlehem 79 Here they shew a Tower and ruines where the Patriarck Iacob dwelt and here againe we did see both Cities 80 Here is an old stately Sepulcher in which they say Rachel Iacobs wife was buried It is almost of a round forme built of stone and lime foure foote high hauing the like couer aboue it borne vp by foure pillars There be two other Sepulchers but nothing so faire and all three are inclosed within one wall of stone 81 Here they shew the Fountaine for the water whereof Dauid thirsted yet would not drinke it when it was brought with the hazard of blood 82 Here the City Bethlehem is seated which then was but a Village hauing no beauty but the Monastery 83 Here the Monastery is seated large in circuit and built rather after the manner of Europe then Asia which the Italian Franciscan Friars called Latines and more commonly Franckes doe possesse but other Christian sects haue their Altars in the Church by speciall priuiledge and the Turkes themselues comming hither in Pilgrimage doe lie within the Church for the Turkes haue a peculiar way by a doore of Iron made of old and kept by them to enter into the Chappell where they say Christ was borne This Monastery seemes strong enough against the sudden attempts of the Turkes or Arabians yet the Friars in that case dare not resist them liuing onely in safety by the reuerence which that people beares to this place and by the opinion of their owne pouerty The greater Church is large and high in which I numbred twenty foure pillars but my consorts being more curious obserued that the pillars were set in foure rankes euery ranke
Out of these Regiments was raised a squadron volante or flying Regiment which onely was to answere Alarums and to be freed of al watches and to the same Sir Henrie Power was appointed Colonel and Captaine Bostock his Lieutenant The seuerall Companies of this squadron are these Out of the Lord Deputies Regiment Sir Richard Wingfield Marshall 150. Sir Iohn Barkeley Serieant Maior 200. Out of the Lord Presidents Regiment Captaine Saxey 100. Out of the Lord Audleys Regiment the Treasurers Lieutenant 100. Out of Sir Charles Willmots Regiment Captaine Nuse 100. Out of Sir Henry Follyots Regiment Captaine Iosias Bodley 150. Out of Sir Oliuer Saint Iohns Regiment Captaine Bostock 100. Out of the Earle of Clanrickards Regiment Captaine Laurence Esmond 150. Foote 1050. Horse in the Army at Kinsale Take out of the List made the seuen and twenty of October Sir Edward Harbert 12 and Captaine George Greame twelue and thirtie of Master Marshals otherwhere imployed and now absent from the Campe and the whole Lyst is fiue hundred fiftie seuen Horse called since that time from other parts in the Kingdome to the Campe at Kinsale The Earle of Kildare 50. Sir Oliuer Lambert 25. Sir Garret More 25. Horse 100. Horse newly sent ouer and landed at Castle-hauen and at Waterford The Lord President added to his troope 50. The Earle of Thomond a troope newly erected 100. Sir William Godolphin who commanded the Lord Deputies troope had newly erected to his owne vse 50. Horse 200. Totall of horse 857. The twentieth of Nouember his Lordship vnderstood by letters from the Lords in England that one thousand foote and fiftie horse were sent and already shipped for Loughfoyle The same day the demy-Cannon planted the day before did againe batter Castle Nyparke together with another Cannon this day landed and planted by it and with some Ordinance also out of the ships though they serued to small purpose About noone one hundred men were sent with Captaine Yorke and Captaine Smith to view the breach and though they found it not assaultable yet the Spaniards within being no longer able to indure the furie of the shot hung out a signe of parly vpon the first shew of those men and offered to yeeld themselues and the Castle vpon promise of their liues onely which being accepted they were brought presently to the Campe being in number sixtcene that were left aliue Before the Castle was yeelded the Spaniards in the Towne made diuers shot at Captaine Tolkernes Pinnace with a piece of Ordinance which they mounted a day or two before close to the Gate of the Towne but did no hurt at all vnto the Pinnace the same warping neerer to the other side vnder the hill and at last riding safely without danger of the shot The same day a platforme was made vpon a ground of aduantage being a strong Rath betweene the Towne and the Camp that commanded one part of the Towne that vnder the fauour thereof we might the better make our neerer approches though at that time we could hardly worke by reason of the extreame frost and a demi Cannon was mounted vpon it with which some shot were made at the Towne A sentinell taken in the euening affirmed that the first piece shot off went through the house in which Don Iean lay and did otherwise great hurt The one and twentieth the prisoners taken in Castle Nyparke and some runawaies were sent to Corke with directions to the Maior to send them and the former prisoners by the first ship into England keeping of them still at Corke onely the Serieant Maior taken in skirmish and the two Commanders of the Castles of Rincorran and Nyparke This day the Cannon and demi-Cannon planted vpon the platforme did play into the Towne And this day the Lord Deputy went ouer into the Hand to view how from thence the Towne might be best annoied and inuested And the Spaniards this day put out of the towne great numbers of Irish women and children which came to the Campe and were suffered to passe into the Countrie to their friends The two and twentieth day one Iames Grace an Irishman obtaining the Lord Deputies Protection escaped out of the Towne and gaue his Lordship this intelligence following Six Irish Gentlemen horsemen came into the towne of Kinsale on Sunday the fifteenth of Nouember and one Owen Conde came the same day and they are all readie to goe out againe and Father Archer with them to put out the Countrie if the Bishop will suffer him Don Iean sayes priuately that the Lord Deputy was borne in a happy hower for he will haue the Towne vnlesse they be relieued from the North. They haue nothing but ruske and water They haue but foure pieces of Artillery one small piece is at the Churchyard one great and a small in Iames Meaghes Garden and the other biggest of all is at the Watergate to play vpon the shipping and all foure are mounted The Spaniards were fiue thousand by report at their setting out from Spaine they landed at Kinsals three thousand fiue hundred they are yet 3000 there are two hundred sicke and hurt in the hospitals they lost 100 at Rincorran and 17 and a boy at Castle Nyparke They had nine slaine when they offered to relieue the Castle and fiue when Captaine Soto was slaine They had foure and thirty Colours abroad when they shot into the Lord Deputies Campe and that was all they had and they had then two pieces a great and a small and that day all the Townesmen were put out at the Gates that they might doe no hurt with the Munition They fill the old Abbey at the West gate with earth that they may mount a great piece there which they make account wilcommād the ground where the English battery is planted at the North Gate where the Mount is raised yet it is not likely they will mount any Ordinance there but rather keep it as a hold They haue store of powder and munition which lies at Iohn Fitz Edmonds Castle but they meane to remoue it presently and put it in a seller within the towne Their treasure lies at the house where Captaine Bostock lay They are much affraid the Lord Deputie will place some Ordinance at Castle Nyparke or thereabouts which will much annoy them but most of all they feare the placing of it at a place neere the water side where some were sent to seeke rods not farre from the place where the skirmish was when they sallyed for which caule they raised their mount but especially filled vp the old Abbey from whence it is best commanded Don Iean lies at Phillip Roches A shot made from the English on Friday at night hit the house where Don Iean lay The Townesmen will stay no longer there for feare of the shot and then the Spaniards will be in great distresse One went from Don Iean to Tyrone about nine daies agoe to hasten his comming the man was blind of one eye The same day the