of bathing not only upon the account of religion but also of health in those hot Countreys are built of a courser sort of marble with a large cuppola In the outward room there is a fountain round which a seat of brick covered with mats where they undress themselves out of which you go through a narrow passage into a spacious room comprehended under the cuppola little oblong squares setting out in the sides Upon the first entrance except care be taken before-hand to reduce the body to such a temper so as to endure the heat one shall scarce be able to fetch breath unless with great difficulty and be almost stifled with the hot exhalations which are so gross that oftentimes finding no vent and reverberated by the roof they are condensed and fall down in thick drops of water Constantinople owes the chiefest part of its present glory to the great Moschs which were either formerly Christian Churches or else built and endowed by several Emperors and other great men Of these and their Founders who have adorned the profession of their Religion with such pomp and magnificence the Turks after the manner of their eloquence which consists in foolish and indiscreet hyperboles use swelling words of vanity By the vastness of the structures they judg of their zeal and piety and the greatness of the revenue is an argument and proof of their successes and victories custom by the bewitchery of the Mufti and the other Church-men prevailing that no Emperor can assume the honour of building a Mosch except he has gained so much ground in Christendom with the revenue of which he may maintain the publick service of religion in it in part at least as if it were offering up a proportion of the spoil to God by way of acknowledgment and gratitude Which consideration must needs have a mighty influence upon them to carry on their wars with all imaginable vigour not only out of a desire of fame to imitate and equal the glory of their predecessors but out of a principle of zeal and conscience They make a fine shew especially toward the haven and are seen at a great distance situated for the most part on the hills and though not all in a strait line yet the heigth takes off so much from the obliqueness of the angle that the eye is at no trouble or loss to find them out Aia Sophia for so the Turks call Sancta Sophia without any other variation from the old Greek name Achmets in the Hippodrome Bayazids Suleimans neer the old Seraglio Shahzadeh This built by Suleiman also in memory of his Son Mahomet the eldest he had by a Russian woman whom we call from her Countrey Roxolana who died in his youth in his government at Magnesia Mahomets who took the City This was formerly a Christian Church dedicated to the memory of the H. Apostles in which many of the Greecian Emperors lye buried Selims who was the Father of Suleiman He overthrew the government of the Mamalucks and subdued Egypt Another Mosch of Mahomet the great which they call Phatih giame or the Conqueror's Mosch for distinction This was a Christian Church dedicated to the B. Virgin St. Mary and after the taking of the City given to Gennadius Scholarius then Patriarch for the Patriarchal Church but afterwards seized on by this Emperor for the services and uses of his own false religion Sancta Sophia appears still a most glorious structure though the Turks are not so careful about the beauty and ornament and reparations of it as of the other Moschs The contrivance and architecture are very admirable fully answering the description given of it by Procopius Caesariensis who was contemporary with the most glorious Emperor Justinian the Founder and one of the officers of his Court A stately portico at the entrance from the ascent five gates covered with plates of Corinthian brass lead into the nave of the Church It s length about one hundred and twenty of my paces and almost half as wide The whole fabrick resting upon arches is upheld by three rows of pillars of different marble Serpentine Porphyry and a kind of Alabaster whose bases and capitels are bound about with brass wreaths In the middle there arises a large cuppola supported by four massy pillars and encompassed without with many little cuppolas some higher than the rest several little Chappels of an oblong figure toward the sides There is an ascent by a winding pair of stairs into the galleries which take up three sides of the Church supported by several curious marble pillars The pavement both of the Church and gallery is marble not made up of little squares but of very large tables the walls crusted over and slagged with the same The roof of the Church and portico in mosaick though the Turks have defaced the faces of several figures yet notwithstanding several representations of sacred history may be clearly enough discerned The two next best Moschs are Suleimans and Achmets In the middle of the Court which encompasses the former is a large square fountain covered at top The portico adorned with very curious tall pillars the pavement laid with large tables of porphyry the cuppola propt up by four pillars of the same sort of marble whose circumference may be about twenty foot the spoils of a Christian Church for such art and curiosity are above the reach and skill of Turks Into Achmets Mosch there is an ascent of twelve stone-steps the gate of brass curiously wrought the four arches of the cuppola upheld by four pillars of cast marble as I judg it to be of a very vast bulk It still retains the name of the new Mosch though divers have been built since and a stately one very lately neer the garden gate toward the haven by the Mother of the present Emperor a Russ by Nation and the daughter of a poor Priest That which is common to all the Royal Moschs is this several gates open into the area within which are fountains or conduits full of cocks and basons for their cleansing before they make their prayers close adjoyning an Hospital and porticos built arch-wise the little cuppolas covered with lead running all along in an even line usually four spires or cylindrical towers of a great heigth which the Priests ascend to call the people to their devotion raised from the ground and placed at a due distance and in opposite corners including a square space except at Achmets Mosch where there are six Each of these have a threefold gallery one above another the tops of these towers are gilt and end in a point like a pyramid on which is placed a gilded Crescent the ensign of the Mahometan religion and so generally where-ever there is any Mosch or oratory though never so mean and little The name of God or of Mahomet or his four chief companions or the form of the profession of the Musulman faith inscribed upon the inside of the walls
not satisfied with this throw stones at them with a most strange and serious concern upbraiding them with their infidelity as if they had learned nothing else from their Parents This is the general civility of the Turks who vouchsafe us no other title when they speak of us in their ordinary discourse when they seem most calm and mild when their zeal and malice does not boil over in fury and madness then that of Gaour or Infidel and to disgrace and deride us the more they usually preface it with some obscene words which are now grown a common mode of speech among them and so frequent in their mouths that upon any the slightest accident that crosseth them if a stone that lies in their way does offend them if their Horses are unruly or do but stumble if their Buffaloes and Asses trip or stand still they vent their passion and displeasure in the same beastly language When their passion swels and rages and prompts them to shew a higher degree of contempt and hatred of us then bre Domuz you Hog is the word the very mention of which adds to their disorder and gives their blood a new fermentation ranking us with those impure Creatures which they account so execrable as if we were equally impure and from whose sight and touch when they are alive and no less from the taste of their flesh they so carefully and religiously abstain We are not yet arrived at the height of their rudeness and barbarity this is not the worst reproach and abuse they put upon us it is not enough they think to compare and rank us with Beasts unless they pronounce us Devils too and maintain with great noise and confidence that we stink in the Nostrils of God Almighty In Cities and places of Trade where Merchants reside there is provision made by capitulations and articles accorded by the Grand Signor to their respective Soveraigns for the security of their persons and estate which interest alone makes them submit to For as dull and as heavy as they are they are mighty sensible of the benefit and advantage they receive by foreign Trade They themselves not caring to traffick out of their own Empire either out of a principle of pride as if there were more of state in it that all sorts of Merchandises are brought to their doors without their seeking or fetching or of laziness and fear not willing nor daring to undergo the hazards and fatigues of Sea-voyages or for want of skill in the art of Navigation in which they are very blockheads and bunglers confessing that God has given both the knowledg and command of the waters to the Christians all which added to the natural dread and aversion they have of the Sea make them content themselves for the most part with the Trade of the Black-Sea sailing for the most part terra terra or of Alexandria the great Scale and Port of Caire and the other parts of Egypt which lye toward the Mediterranean though oftentimes molested in the one by the Cossacks who in times of war come down the Borysthenes with their Fleet of Boats and thence coast all along to the very mouth of the Bosphorus as by the Malteses in the other And I am induced to believe by arguments of very great probability that if the Trade of Christendom were wholly interrupted by wars and the Silk-trade particularly diverted and turned out of the Dominions of the Turk either by the way of the Caspian Sea or which would be more feisible by lading it at Gombroon and so joined to the Indian Trade both which projects were mightily approved of by Abbas that victorious King of Persia and great enemy of the Turks to avert so great a mischief they would quickly vail their Turbants and descend from their high terms and quit their disdainful and proud thoughts as if the Christians could not live without their friendship and submit to more advantageous conditions of peace and commerce But notwithstanding these priviledges and the superaddition of the Law of Nations to that of common nature and humanity as if their tongues lay not under the restraint of an Edict and Religion gave them a licence to be rude they do not abstain oftentimes from reviling Ambassadors themselves as they pass along the Streets with their Nation and their Retinue to their Audidience though the Janisaries who are their Guards and in their pay are concern'd and think fit to discountenance and chastise such an insolence Here is not indulged the liberty of Christendom of running up and down the Streets and by-Lanes of Constantinople and being too curious for besides the affronts that are every-where to be met with there is danger of being thrust into some private House and after some days or weeks sent over to Asia or ship'd for Tartary and though examples of such violent seizures are but few yet custom grounded upon such like fears makes it necessary to have the company and attendance of a Souldier which is necessary to desend one from the open assaults of Turks either spirited with Wine and Rackee or with the zeal they have brought with them from Mecca for these religious Pilgrims who have visited the Tomb of their Prophet are very fierce who will draw their Knives and Ponyards and whatever the design be whether only to affright and to shew what they would do if their Emperor had not forbid it yet in such a scuffle the accident may prove very dangerous and fatal too and only this way is to be provided against Their prejudices lying so deep as not easily to be removed a Christian who is not a Slave as the Greeks and Armenians are who seem to be below their hate and scorn will be liable to continual affronts which he must put up and digest with a patience becoming his Religion and his prudence and not seem much concerned but be deaf rather to the noise and ill language However if curiosity carries one twenty or thirty miles into the Country the danger is really great and certain for it is usual to seize upon straglers if they meet them in the Fields and Woods separated from their company where there is such great probability of securing their prey and of their being undiscovered unless he throws off his Christian Habit and puts himself into that of the Country and goes armed and well attended In places where Christians seldom appear they are had in greater horror and execration and if they meet with any civility it is for the sake of the Janizaries who accompany them whom they are afraid to displease though sometimes the ill humour will break forth into such obstinacy and peevishness that the Janizaries themselves shall sare the worse for the Christians whom they wait upon I remember when I was at Sardes not caring to lodg in the Caravanserai with our Horses we employed our Janizaries to procure us a Lodging for a night or two in any
a sence of Religion influences their behaviour and makes it extraordinary humble and reverent I happen'd to be present at Evening-prayer in the time of Ramazan in the new Mosch built by the Mother of this Emperor where might be an Assembly of no less than two or three thousand Lifting up the Antiport and advancing a little forward I could not perceive the least noise no coughing or spitting no disorderly running up and down no gazing one upon another no entertainments of discourse nothing of irreverence or heedlesness as if they had forgot the business they came about but all were mighty intent and serious and listening with great diligence to the Priest or busie at their private prayers with that profound silence as if it had been not only a sin but a crime that drew after it bodily punishment to be inflicted immediately to misbehave themselves whether in discourse or gesture in that place When they make their prayers they turn their faces toward that determined point of the Heavens under which Mecca is placed as the Christians do to the East the Jews to Jerusalem in what Climate or position of Sphere soever they are standing almost erect only that their heads do encline somewhat forward their eyes being fixt upon the ground and their hands close to the breast almost in the figure of a Cross without any the least motion as if they were in an extasie But soon after upon the repeating of some words they at set intervals incline their heads and bend their bodies and prostrate themselves upon the pavement cover'd with Carpets or Maps of Grand Cairo several times together then sitting cross-leg'd their hands placed upon their knees but not exactly in the same easie posture as in their houses but as it were somewhat higher and upon their right heel They often pass from one gesture to another and make often interchanges which tradition and custom have made necessary in order to the right performance of this duty Besides they have a trick to move their heads several times from one shoulder to another as if they shewed the expectation they have of the coming of Mahomet who promised to appear at the last day at the time of prayer or else which is the reason Albert Bobowski a learned Polonian who had been kept in the Seraglio full nineteen years and a person well-skill'd in all the Rites of the Mahometan worship gave me upon enquiry to shew respect to their Angel-keepers whom they foolishly believe at that time to sit upon their shoulders They make use of Chaplets of Beads upon which they number their short prayers such as Sabhan Allah blessed be God Allah Ekber God is great Alhemdo lillah praise be given to God Bismilla in the name of God which they will repeat sometimes a hundred times as they will likewise the several names of God with great noise and fervency We heard in Sancta Sophia six or seven Priests crying out several times till they were even hoarse again We believe we believe as if they thought God Almighty had been to be wrought upon by such loud and vain repetitions In making bows and prostrations which they look upon as necessary appendages of prayer their devotion does chiesly consist to omit them is very scandalous there being not a greater disgrace and reproach among themselves than to be accounted Binamaz one who does not say his prayers It is enough however they do it in their Houses so they do not neglect the Mosch too much and especially in their Month of Fast but the Janizaries particularly who by the obligation of their Order fight for the propagation and advancement of the joint-interest of Religion and the Empire think this their zeal and readiness enough to excuse them from going thither too often and dispense with themselves for not going above once or twice in a year except such as live in the two Oda's or publick Chambers in Constantinople design'd for their Lodgings adjoining to which is a Mosch peculiar to them But some on the other side who would be taken for Saints are as extravagant in the excess as the Janizaries are usually neglectful For at the times of Prayer they will dismount from their Horses leave their shooting and hunting spread their Handkerchiefs in the open streets as well as in the Fields and Woods or Sea-shore as I have known them do when crossing the Propontis we were forced by violence of weather to make into a Cove between two Rocks where I found several Boats of Turks got thither before me being the only Frank in the company After their prayers they fell to drinking of Coffee and observing that I was wet and cold and indisposed by reason of the ill-weather they bid one of their Slaves give that Infidel who was in the Cleft of the Rock where I had shelter'd my self against the wind a Dish of Coffee which was very welcome not daring to offend them by making use of the Wine I had laid in the Boat to serve me during my Voyage to Constantinople In some this devotion certainly flows from a principle of conscience and is very hearty and sincere as both justice and charity oblige us to believe but it would be as great folly and weakness not to censure others of gross and ridiculous folly and dissimulation as this following instance will fully demonstrate My Lord Ambassador one day entertain'd at Dinner one Husain Aga who had formerly been Customer at Smyrna and at that time one of the great men of Constantinople by reason of the relation that his Father-in-Law had to the Vizir then in Candia but as very a Turk as is in the whole Empire together with five other Hogs fatning up for the slaughter They drank mighty freely of Wine and strong-Strong-water which had been distilled in Christendom for the sake of which they chiefly came though they would jestingly at Table check themselves for daring to transgress the Law of their Prophet But being once in they drank on a drop of each defiling them as much as the greatest load they could stand under But however to shew that for all this extravagance they were Musulmans as soon as they heard the Priest from the Spire of a neighbouring Mosch at Ikindi that is the middle-time between mid-day and Sun-set call to prayers they desired a Carpet might be spread in the Court-yard upon the ground where they went very devoutly to their prayers and left us to wonder at their stupid and irreligious hypocrisie This is no very rare or unusual thing among them it being what I have seen also practised before a great number of Christians in other places The Fast which every year is observed in the month of Ramazan is another great fundamental of the Mahometan Religion Which though it be fix'd as to the month yet because the years they make use of in their Religious and Civil accompts are Lunary without any intercalation to adjust the different
of Priests in solemn procession pass over the Water to Pera-side where upon a high hill a little above Kasim Basha in that part of it they call Okmidan where at other times the better sort of Turks use to shoot which is one of their greatest exercises on the edge of it toward the South-east is a little Square of about twenty paces long andas many broad hemm'd in with Freestone about two foot from the ground where I found a stony Pulpit ascended to by ten steps on the top of which the Mufti makes his prayers after which Ceremony is over they think they have done all they can do and leave off all further care This is their great argument of comfort upon the death of their friends that it is the decree and pleasure of God which they are to submit to and that all humane counsels and remedies are ineffectual against his will which is a great truth in it self but very much misapplied by them and that so long they are to live and not a minute longer as I remember a Turk who escaped being buried under the ruines of a wall that fell as he past by said when he was recover'd from his surprize Egel ghelmedi that the hour of his death was not yet come without giving God thanks for his great deliverance Some of them indeed seem to have a great reverence and fear of God which they shew both by their gestures and discourses whensoever they have occasion to mention his name referring all things not only the events of war or any great undertaking but of a journey and the private concerns of their life to his will and disposal ratifying their promise and purpose with this condition In Shallah if God will beginning nothing of any moment not stepping out of their door nor mounting a Horse but in the name of God In any danger or distress they quiet their fears and encourage others not to despond with the remembrance of the mercy power and goodness of God often crying out Allah karim God is gracious Allah ekbir God is great and the like out of a sense of their own weakness flying to God to help and protect them and when the danger is over the journey finished or the design accomplisht to their satisfaction they repeat often these words Alhemdo lillah praise to God by way of gratitude and acknowledgment This is the temper of some of the more religious among them There are others who run into the extreme of irreligion Atheists in their hearts and in their lives among which I may reckon justly enough the greatest part of the Cadyes and almost all the Apostate Christians These latter who conscious to themselves of horrid crimes which the Laws of Christendom have made capital or else of dissolute lives and wallowing in brutality that they may enjoy their lusts more freely and without check and remorse of conscience embrace the Mahometan Religion look upon it and all other Religions as a meer cheat and by their lives shew the disesteem of them The other being men whose understandings are somewhat refined by their education from the stupidity and dulness of the ordinary Turks sensible of the idle fopperies of the Alcoran and of the imposture of Mahomet and of the absurdities of his Doctrine and the inconsistency of it with the principles of right Reason rashly conclude of Religion in general that it is a trick of State and an invention of Policy and that the belief of a God and of Providence is wholly owing to the credulity and superstition and unjust fears of mankind Only they are so wise and cunning to conceal their Atheism which they are so justly suspected to be guilty of for fear of the great danger an open profession of it would involve them in For the Turks are mighty zealous for the existence of a Deity against the Atheist and think such a person not worthy to breath in the air who dares deny this fundamental principle of nature And the example of such a just severity is very fresh in their memories as hapning in the year of Christ M.DC.LXI upon a certain Mahometan which I shall here put down from the mouths of credible persons who knew the man very familiarly This Mahomet Ephendi which is a title of respect they usually bestow upon men of learning and authority was born in Larr in Armeuia major a man of great esteem in Constantinople among all who knew him for his skill in the Law and in the Arabick and Persian languages of a temper mild and sociable which made him covet the acquaintance and friendship of several Western Christians from whom he could learn somewhat and whom he acknowledged to understand the laws of discourse and to reason much better than his Brother Turks whom he lookt upon as very dull and heavy fellows His inquisitive genius put him upon the search of several things and his pride and conceitedness were so great that he thought he had found the secret indeed which all the Atheists have been seeking after to quiet and banish those fears which perpetually haunt their guilty minds Ambitious of fame and applause he sets up for a profest Atheist being so far from suppressing these extravagant fancies the effect of the greatest madness whatever that he takes care to divulge them in all companies where he thought to meet with opposition and disputes fiercely against the being of a God Whenever he went to visit Signor Warner whose extraordinary learning and worth derived a great lustre upon his publick character the first salute upon the very sight of him was there is not meaning a God to which the Resident would immediately reply there is after which they would often descend to a close dispute about that dictate of universal nature and right reason but he had so hardned his heart against all conviction and blinded his mind and understanding with absurd and irrational prejudices and foolish and vain imaginations that though he could not well sustain the mighty shock of arguments which the learned Resident level'd at him yet he flatter'd himself he could fully satisfie them all and that he had the better of him But in the miserable end of this wretch the Divine justice was as much seen as if he had been consum'd by Lightning from Heaven There hapning in the publick Caravanserai where he lodged a quarrel between him and some Armenian Christian Merchants they carried him before the Caimacam who is the Governour of Constantinople who had for his Assistant the chief Justice of the City whom they call Stambol Ephendi The injury he had done the Armenians was proved by several Witnesses and in the close the Turks who were present acquainted the Judges of the temper of the man and accused him of several impieties he was guilty of as that he never came to the prayers of the Mosch neglected the other rites instituted by their Prophet drank Wine freely and that in the time of Ramazan and
blood but tyes and obligations to further service in the field upon the first summons each bringing so many Horses with him according to the value of what he holds which is the reason they do not receive an Asper of pay out of the Grand Signiors Exchequer and are therefore known by the name of Timar-Spahyes or Feudatory to distinguish them from other Spahyes who live in the Cities and have not obtain'd a piece of Land whose daily pay is very different proportionably to the worth and merit of the persons as was said before of the Janizaries some receiving twelve Aspers and others an hundred Of these they reckon about twenty three thousand in Europe and as many or more rather in Asia for their number is uncertain and encreases with their victories and sometimes a rich Timar is divided upon the death of the former possessor into many parts besides such as live about Buda on the one side and Etzrum and Bagdat on the other who are not obliged to go out of their Quarters We must not think that when they war against Christendom they make bare the limits and frontiers of the Empire towards Persia These Spahyes are no better than Country Farmers their minds are so taken up with the study of good Husbandry and the pleasure of enjoying what they have has so taken off their minds from the fatigues and hardships of a Souldiers life that by money and presents oftentimes they labour to get themselves exempted from that personal service they owe their Emperor which is one reason the success of a Battel depending more upon discipline than number they do not care to bring such vast Armies into the field as in the last age when Suleiman carried a hundred thousand Horse with him in the Hungarian war when he flattered himself he should become Master of the Imperial City of Vienna Every Spahy is so loaden with Arms that he seems to carry an Armory with him having a short strong Bow the same questionless which the old Parthians made use of with his Quiver of Arrows Sword Gun Sheild Lance at the top of which hangs a little Banner which shews to what order he belongs For there are six orders and degrees of them distinguishable by the different colours of their Banners Red which is that of Spahioglauleri Yellow that of Selichtari Green White White and Green Red and White Long experience has taught them the use of these several weapons which they manage dextrously upon occasion as they do their Horses which they can stop upon a full career at the distance of a foot It is a pleasant sight to see them divert themselves by throwing darts on Horseback which they do with great strength and dexterity turning and winding their Horses at pleasure There is another sort of Feudatories whom they called Zaims fewer in number than the Spahyes obliged to the same services but with greater proportions of men having considerable Lordships To qualifie their Children to inherit their great care is to send them to the Camp and breed them up Souldiers In all their warlike expeditions great numbers of Volunteers offer themselves some out of a design to succeed into the places of the Janizaryes and Spahyes who shall happen to be knockt on the head which they judg worthy of their adventure for if it be their fate to dye in the field they believe they shall directly go into Paradise and if they survive a Battel they are sure to be enrolled in the Grand Signiors pay which is the only ambition they seem capable of Others out of a principle of zeal for the propagation of Religion who usually prove the most desperate and seldom come off alive and to make the act meritorious maintain themselves and think the service it self a sufficient reward The Auxiliary Forces are the Christians of Moldavia and Wallachia of whom before Next the Tartars not so much by virtue of an old compact that in case of faileur of the Ottoman line their Prince shall succeed as some pretend but out of an interest to gain by the war come in to their assistance They are more for their prey than for fight which they endeavour to avoid till necessity and shame put them upon it They carry with them usually a great number of lead Horses which are of double use either to set their miserable Captives upon or in case their provision should fail to serve them for food Horseflesh being one of the Tartarian dainties and which is sold in the Market an Asper in the pound more than Beef or Mutton Thousands of poor miserable Christians are forced into the wars and serve only for Pioners having no other Arms than a Mattock and a Spade sometimes placed in the front of the Army to break the fury of the onset or else in a Siege when they go to storm thrust forward that upon their bodies the Janizaries may pass the more securely The Turkish Souldiers do not care to go out of their Winter-quarters till the Spring when they may find grass for their Horses nor will they keep in the field after October unless bribed with promises of reward or forced to it by some urgent necessity Among their Baggage there are usually great quantities of metal to cast great Guns upon occasion which they find more convenient oftentimes than to carry Artillery with them especially in long and tedious marches where there is no conveyance by water The many great victories the Turks have gained over the Christians are too sad and convincing a proof of their valour which is heightned and rendred desperate by a concurrence of causes added to the severity of their discipline and education Before they engage if there be any opportunity the Surat or Chapter of the Sword is read out of the Alcoran which contains a warrant from Heaven to exterminate and destroy all who set themselves against this new Law revealed by God to Mahomet hence their perswasion and their zeal receive new vigor and force that they fight in the defence of Gods cause which makes them look upon cowardise and faint-heartedness as a sin For who can be so base and unworthy as not to be ambitious of dying at such a time when they are the Champions of God The signal being given they run upon their enemies with the name of God in their mouths confusedly repeating it several times and invoking him to assist and maintain his own cause which they are fighting for The doctrine of Predestination and Fate contributes not a little to their fury upon confidence of which principle they expose themselves to certain dangers believing themselves safe in the midst of them if God has so decreed it which they do not know whether he has or no but by the event and if so all their wariness and endeavours to escape signifie nothing in the end They are convinc'd by a thousand examples before their eyes that this is the readiest way
the water and with much a-do got to us We put him into Christian habit like one of the Seamen but for his and our greater security the Turkish Customers being within a day or two to search the Vessel lest they should give us or the Merchants any trouble if they found him with us our Captain desired the Commander of a Dutch Man of War that lay in the Bay to receive him till we set sail within four days when we were out of all danger we received him again and brought him for England The condition of the Slaves is more or less tolerable according to the temper and humour of their Patrons But of all a Gally-slave leads the most sad and miserable life when they are abroad at Sea perpetually labouring at the Oar and chained to their seats there they are fixed in all weathers their only hope being this that violent storms are not very lasting They must make a virtue of necessity and are forced to be patient A love of life and hope one day of being freedmake them submit their backs to the cruel whip otherwise death would be a real advantage to them and some indeed out of a weariness and loathing of life have been so desperate as to get loose and leap into the Sea They who are taken in the wars are the Grand Signiors Slaves and seldom or never get their liberty unless when a Christian Ambassador intercedes powerfully in their behalf or that this condition be inserted in the Articles of a Treaty renewed after a rupture by war a point the Signoria of Venice in the late accord upon the surrendry of Candia pursued with great zeal and by the prudent conduct of their Bailo so happily effected to the great honour of St. Mark They judg it an indecorum that the Exchequer should be one Asper the richer for ransoms No their Prisoners must linger out their time and grow old either in their Gallies or Prisons unless they are met with and over-powered in fight by the Knights of Malta who are obliged their by their Order to be in perpetual enmity with the Turks and are a great thorn in their side and so have their liberty given them by the Conquerer or else when their Gallies are halled ashore into their Voltas by some unexspected chance get away At such time they are shut up in a spacious Area by the Arsenal on the North-side of the Haven at Constantinople enclosed with very high walls and strict guard kept at the entrance and for the greater security they shackle them in couples Here I had occasion to go often to visit and relieve four or five poor English men some of which had served Captain Georgio a famous Greek Pyrate who was a plague to the Infidels but at last by a surprize he fell into their hands though after a most brave resistance himself being killed in the encounter to the great joy of all the inhabitants of the Sea-coasts whose often visits were so terrible to them his head was sent as a present to the Emperor for which the Messenger was considerably rewarded and the service of the Captain Bassa who with his whole Fleet of Gallies assisted by some Ships of Tripoly set upon his two Ships in a Port of Mitylene highly magnified and Songs made upon the victory my business being to confirm them by my advice in their profession of the Faith of Christ that no hardship might work upon their troubled minds to make them turn Turks and to relieve them as I saw their necessities required with the money that was put into my hand for such Christian uses The Turks allow them only black bread and water but for other necessaries of life they are beholding to their Fellow Christians though some of the more handy and ingenious by some kind of work or other do scrape together a few Aspers to lay in a little provision against the time of their going to Sea The Christian Commanders and Officers are imprisoned in the Seven Towers scituated upon the Propontis in the South-East corner of Constantinople These Gentlemen are the great trophies of their victories with these and their perpetual servitude they seem satisfied in the loss of many thousands killed in the war They have a daily allowance of fifteen Aspers made by the Emperor and this is esteemed a mighty piece of bounty which they cannot safely reject though the Governour usually gets a third part of it but being most of noble Families they are well maintained not only by their Relations but by the respective Governments and States under which they served considerable sums being yearly sent toward their relief which is distributed in due proportion according to their quality and character only I could wish the Hungarian and German Gentlemen who are Protestants had a little more justice done them in the distribution and did not suffer upon the account of their Religion Here I went three or four times a year to give them the Holy Sacrament and found easie admission into the Castle as did the Religious of the Roman Church to say Mass to those of their Communion who were far more numerous visits were continually made them by their friends they had the free use of the Castle so as they kept within their due limits and free liberty of keeping one another company and thus they deceived the tediousness of their imprisonment by mutual kindnesses and civilities of conversation the Governour of the Castle letting out a Garden to a noble Venetian who had been taken in Corso which favour he admitted his fellow-prisoners to Nothing seemed to be wanting but their liberty to make their life pleasant many of them were allowed to keep their Servants and lay in what provision they pleased the Governour being a mild man and extraordinary indulgent besides the usual custom of Turks who think that the right of war will justify the most horrid act of barbarity and brutishness toward their Prisoners who are to look upon it as a great favour and mercy that their throats are not cut But after that a French Gentleman a Knight of Malta made his escape in the latter end of the year 1670. in the French-Men of War which brought their new Ambassador the Turks mad at their remissness were resolved to revenge themselves upon the remaining Prisoners treating them with all imaginable despight and cruelty thrusting them having first put iron-bolts upon their legs into loathsome Cellars and Dungeons without the least regard to their quality and suffering no Christian to come nigh them and indeed the cruelty and insolence were so great that without the divine assistance it had been altogether insupportable The other Slaves who are in private mens hands are redeemable at a good price but then there must be artifice used in the buying of them The more forward the Western Christians are to redeem their Countrey-men the greater price their covetous Masters set upon their heads a seeming indifference whether
and all the infirmities of old age seizing upon them in the time of their manhood so that they appear to be as so many walking ghosts Which horrid and necessary effects of it have of late made the use of it less frequented among the more considering Turks who are sensible their excesses and debaucheries with Wine are less dangerous and pernicious to their health I know not how true the experiment is but this is certain that those who use Opium abstain most carefully for some time at least from drinking cold water which they say would cause death incurably though without any convulsion or agonies This is the only use of Opium with them ignorant of correcting its noxious and stupifying qualities and so making it fit for medicine There is so great and universal a regard had to Mahomet's prohibition of eating Swines-flesh that the transgressor is counted sacrilegious and void of all conscience who dares defile his soul with it as they firmly believe it does which opinion is so rooted in their minds that they may be sooner brought to renounce any part of their Religion than this particular institution Those who will indulge themselves to drinke Wine abhor the very thought of touching much more of eating the least bit of Pork To breed an antipathy in their children toward it they teach them as soon as they can speak to call Christians by the opprobrious name of Hogs which hatred grows up with their years so that they had rather die with hunger than meddle with such profane and cursed diet in what strait or necessity of life soever The very sight of a Hog puts some into a fright and trembling which soon passes into fretting and indignation and woe to the poor Swine if the Souldiers come in their way for they are sure to come by the worst of it if they escape being killed with their small shot the steams of the dressed flesh are hated worse than any pestilential air and therefore if any good-natur'd Turk condescends to be entertain'd by a Christian great care is taken that nothing may be served up of Hogs-flesh however disguised for this would be an affront not only to his Person but Religion and would fright him from the table Which I remember hapned particularly at a worthy English Merchant's House at Galata who prevail'd with a gentile Turk to stay and dine with him The Cook not knowing there was such a Guest in the company sent up a mess of Pork which one of the servants as ignorantly put upon the table The Turk suspecting what it was asked the question the thing being confessed for there was no possible denying or dissembling it he rises from his seat in great haste as one out of his wits looks about for water and observing a little Cistern in one corner of the room as is usual washes his hands mouth and nostrils as if all had been polluted and left us immediately in great disdain though fully satisfied it was a mistake and no way out of design The Greeks who live in Villages apart from Turks breed up these creatures not so much for their own use as to sell them to the We stern Christians and to Masters of Ships for their Sea-provision a priviledg which they are forced to buy with their Money But to do this with greater security the Druggermans are forced to procure a warrant from the Caimacam every year at the beginning of Winter and then the Swineherd must remain in the fields in some by-place out of the road till the dusk of the evening at which time the Turks not used to stay out late retire to their houses there being as great silence at an hour and an half in the night as at midnight This great care must be taken to prevent and take off all occasion of scandal offence and tumult which would necessarily arise if they were brought into Constantinople as it were in triumph by day-light and would be sadly misconstrued as an evil Omen of the downfal of their Empire by the Christians They are at present strangers to luxury and high feeding the Kitchen-arts have not as yet got among them no poignant sauces to provoke the appetite besides popper and garlick to heat their stomacks no curiosity of diet little decency in their entertainments They understand not the use of knife and fork tearing the flesh asunder with their fingers a wooden spoon being the chief furniture of their table There are some dishes peculiar to the great mens tables which an European stomack though not nice and curious would reject fish and soul though they have in abundance they do not much affect They cut the flesh they roast into little mammocks and put them upon wooden spits The common food of the Levant from Constantinople to the walls of China and beyond is Rice which they disguise with several colours with saffron and several sorts of seeds and juices which yields hearty nourishment The usual time of dinner is about nine of the clock in the morning they sit close and round a copper vessel placed upon a stool a foot and half high from the ground which contains their plates and dishes either of tin or earth for the Emperor does not use silver and eat their meat in great haste as if they strove who should eat most or have done first This Paragraph of their diet I should altogether have omitted as of too poor and mean a consideration if it did not conduce somewhat to the better understanding their manners and tempers Their Weddings are celebrated with great noise and tumult the Bride muffled up and covered with a red veil is brought home on horseback riding astride attended by her relations and friends and Musick playing before and the boys running up and down and making a confused noise This is the first day of their coming together the whole business of the contract and marriage being managed in their absence by the friends of each party But forasmuch as the Mahometan law permits the man to put away his wife upon every slight occasion that they may not leave their Daughters wholly at the mercy of their Husbands whose humours are so fickle and inconstant but prevent such an accident at least to provide better against it a Writing is signed before the Cadi whereby they oblige themselves to make such daily allowance to their Wives in case they are weary of them and turn them off which allowance is exacted as a just debt and always payable The paper of contract being ratified the Proxies of both parties go to the Parish Priest who is invited to the Nuptial entertainment who there bestows his blessing on the married couple and then begins the mad mirth which lasts for three entire days and nights together They are confined to the number of four Wives who have some little command over the women Slaves though otherwise not much better treated for their condition is servile being shut up in their
the Chapiters curiously wrought in a line equally distant and further on there being a larger space between two other Pillars all which serve now only as so many props to support a wall that is built close to them They are confronted on the other side of the street with other Pillars of the same make but whose Chapiters are broken two lying along upon the ground More Eastward toward the plain lye very famous ruines of a Church dedicated to St. John built of brick about fifty six paces in length and in bredth thirty two the walls of a very great heigth two rows of windows on each side Several Pillars fixt within the body of the Church but broken of and wanting much of their due height the Turks not willing to be at any pains to clear the earth where they are fixt and the broken pieces serving their purpose as well which is to place them at the extremities of their graves abundance of which we found in their burying-places in our travels where ever we came Under the East end a large Vault On each side of the Church is a round building the one exactly agreeing with the other The doors very high opposite to which is a great Nicchio or cavity in the wall a Vault underneath sustained by a great Pillar the foundation strengthened by several arches and pillars it is eighteen of my paces in diameter within the walls very thick In the upper part of the City is the Rivolet Selinus whose stream is very swift running toward the South South-east into the Caicus over which are built several Stone-bridges some with two some with three arches By the stream not far from the great Church part of a wall is yet standing of about ninety paces On the other side of Selinus is a very handsome and large Church formerly called Sancta Sophia into which you ascend by several stone-stairs now polluted by the Turks and made a Mosch We observed a passage under ground from the Castle to the Selinus by which they supplyed themselves with water Along the side of a hill from the South-west are the remainders of an Aqueduct On a hill to the west of the City we met with several vast ruines with six great arches over a water which seems to have been formerly a common-shore and South of this another range of six arches more with two large rooms The former of these ruines the Turks call Kiz-serai or the Womens Seraglio telling us that anciently they were kept there accommodating according to their rude conception of things who have not the least knowledg of Antiquity the customs of former ages to the practice of their Emperor at Constantinople and fancying them to have been the very same More Southward is another great ruined building with arches situated pleasantly upon a hill from whence we had a good prospect of the City and the neighbouring Plain hard by which is a Theatre that opens to the South the marks of the steps still remaining In the declivity of which almost at the bottom is a Marble-stone about seven spans in length and two in bredth with this inscription 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 On the opposite side a Marble statue about two or three foot in the rubbish which we caused to be removed by a poor Christian this being the only way to preserve it the Turks being such profest enemies to all humane figures whether painted or in Mosaick or wrought in Brass or Marble that it would quickly be defaced and broken if it appeared above ground As we walk'd in the streets we observed several Vaults almost every-where We went to see several ruines about a quarter of a mile out of Town to the S. W. which seem to have been a fortification under which are several Vaults that open one into another which serve not only for the foundation of the building but might also very conveniently be made use of for a granary to lay their stores in though now only a receptacle of cattel To the South much about the same distance are two mounts opposite one to the other raised artificially to command the passage and secure the Avenues that way in the mid way lies the road and the like toward the East The state of the Christians here is very sad and deplorable there being not above fifteen families of them their chief employment is gardening by which they make a shift to get a little money to pay their harache and satisfy the demands of their cruel and greedy oppressors and maintain a sad miserable life They have one Church dedicated to St. Theodore the Bishop of Smyrna under whose jurisdiction they are taking care to send a Priest to officiate among them In the Bagno we found an excellent jarr of marble not unlike a font about five or six foot from the pavement very neer seven yards in compass with figures of horsemen in relievo round about it but broken somewhat at top neer which is a curious marble-basin about two or three foot higher than it In the yard adjoyning we found this inscription upon a stone-pillar sunk in the ground MA. AEMILIO AVR. PVB. PROCVLO PRAEF FABR. MA. LEPIDI AVG. PROCVR SACRVM On it is engraven a Bulls head On a stone very high upon the wall is the figure of a dog with these two verses under it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Having satisfied our selves with the view of Pergamus on Thursday the 6th about Sun-rise we set forward in our journey toward Thyatira our way lying almost due East repassing the Cetius and Caicus which last we forded at about two miles distance from the City After four hours we came to a river whose channel was somewhat broad and banks very high which we left on our left-hand perchance the river Hyllus After seven hours we arrived at Soma a very large Town situated under a high hill and from thence passed in three hours to Kirk-agach or the Town of forty trees placed under a hill also the plain lying to the North of it and so to Bak-hair a Village so called from the pleasantness of its situation those words signifying a fair prospect where we took up our lodging after eleven hours travel On the 7th from Bakhair after four hours we came to a Village called Mader-kuy seated on a little hill under which runs a little river which loseth its waters in the Hermus In the plain before it we saw several pillars about forty or fifty some fixt in the ground and others lying upon the grass no other ruines being near From this Village to Thyatira in one hour Thyatira called by the Turks Akhisar or the white Castle a City of Lydia is distant from Pergamus about forty eight miles almost South-east situated in a spacious plain about two miles and an half in compass Very few of the ancient buildings remain here one we saw which seems to have been a market-place having six
part of the famous mountain Mimas which runs as far as Cape Cornobbero the Turks call it Kara-borun or the Cape with the black nose at the entrance into Smyrna Bay which we past over in two hours After ten hours we forded a little river called Halesus that runs into the Sea at Colophon two hours beyond which is a Turkish Town called Giamo-bashee situated in a spacious plain with several handsome Moschs in it where not meeting with any accommodation we rode half a mile further to a poor Village called Karagick-kuy where we lodged and the next morning we arrived safe at Smyrna being the twentieth day from our departure Smyrna called by the Turks Esmir lyes in the bottom of a Bay which is encompassed with high mountains on all sides except to the West about ten leagues in length where is good anchoring ground and the water deep so that the Ships ride neer the Merchants scales who for their convenience live to the water side The bredth at the bottom may be I ghess about two or three miles To the North is the river Meles This is one of the most flourishing Cities of the lesser Asia both for its great trade and the number of its inhabitants in which I include Franks Jews and Armenians as well as Greeks and Turks Little of its ancient glory is left standing earthquakes and fire and war having made as great desolations and wastes here as in the other parts of Anatolia 'T is certain from the numerous foundations continually dug up that the greatest part of the buildings anciently were situated upon the side of the hill and more to the South the houses below toward the Sea being built since Smyrna became of late years a place of trade On the top of the hill which overlooks the City and Bay is an old Castle without any regular fortifications about it and in a manner slighted there being only two or three guns for fashions sake mounted with which they salute the new Moon of Bairam and the Captain Bassa when he comes into the Port with his armata of Galleys Neer the entrance is a marble head the nose of which is cut off by Turks out of their great zeal and hatred of all kind of humane figures especially I found nothing in it observable but a Cistern or perchance Granary under ground propt by pillars and the bottom curiously plaistered over the work of the ancient Greeks but much inferior to one I saw in the long Island just within the Bay on the side of a hill into which there is a descent of about eight or nine feet the buildings very regular and stately having twenty pillars in length and five in bredth the distance between each about seven of my paces that is above one hundred and sixty paces one way and above thirty five another At a little distance from which is another almost of the same bigness but filled with water the Island being altogether uninhabited but full of wild hogs and hares On the sides of the other gate of the Castle are yet to be seen two Eagles the ensigns of the Romans delineated at large and handsomely enough In our descent to the South-east we entred the Amphitheatre where St. Polycarp first Bishop of this City was martyred the stony steps being removed for the most part by the Turks for their buildings and other uses In the sides are still to be seen the two Caves opposite to each other where they used to enclose their Lions fighting with beasts being in ancient times the great diversion of the people of this Countrey and to which they usually condemned their slaves and the poor Christians especially On the side of the hill but somewhat lower is the sepulchre of this great Saint which the Greeks solemnly visit upon the anniversary festival consecrated to his memory in complyance with an ancient custom in use almost from the times of his martyrdom as Eusebius relates in the 4th Book of his Ecclesiastical History chap. 15. It is placed in a little open room that possibly might be some Chappel in the entrance of which I found this inscription upon a marble stone now placed in a chimney 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 The poor Greeks are very careful in repairing this monument if it any way suffers either by the weather it being exposed to the air or by the Turks or by the Western Christians who break off pieces of marble and carry them away as reliques an earthen dish hanging by to receive the aspers any either out of curiosity or veneration and respect to the memory of the blessed Martyr shall bestow for the repair of his Tomb. Nigh hereunto are several arches stones of huge bigness lying upon the ground and a great building having three large rooms upon a floor which perchance was a place of Judicature the front having been formerly adorned with four pillars the bases of which at present only remain Not many years since in a lane towards the North-east digging for a foundation they met with several rows of square stones placed regularly one above another and in all probability it might be part of a Fane or Temple in the times of Heathenism In the walls of the City I observed a great cavity almost in every square stone resembling somewhat a Roman V which some fancy might be in the honour of the Emperor Vespasian who was a great benefactor to this City But the figure not being always the same but admitting great variety I am apt to believe it was rather made by the Masons that the stones might be the better cemented together About a mile from the Town are the ruines of a Church which the Franks call by the name of Janus's Temple which I believe rather to have been dedicated to St. John the great Saint of the East and that hence the mistake of the name is to be fetch'd The Turks have here thirteen Moschs the Jews several Synagogues and yet tho Smyrna still retains the dignity of a Metropolitical seat the Greeks have but two Churches the one dedicated to St. George the other if I do not misremember to St. Photinus The Armenians have only one Church in the Church-yard whereof I met with these inscriptions In the Eastern division 1 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 2 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 In the Southern 1 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 2 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 ... 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉
〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 3 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 4 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 For the other inscriptions I must refer the learned Reader to the Latin copy By this short and imperfect survey the curious Reader may be sadly convinced in what a pitiful and deplorable condition these once famous and glorious Churches of Asia are at this day Churches which had the Apostles for their Founders and which yielded so many Martyrs and which abounded with so many myriads of Christians whose patience and valour tired out and wearied and at last triumphed over the tyranny the malice and the hatred of their Heathen persecutors and which afterward when the Empire became Christian and the civil power submitted it self to the law and discipline of Christ and when the Cross which before was had in such execration was held the highest ornament of the Crown advanced in splendor and glory above what they had enjoyed in the times of Heathenism which upon a due consideration of circumstances one might have truly enough judged should have been eternal and placed almost out of all possibility of danger and ruine now turned into heaps of rubbish scarce one stone left upon another some of them utterly uninhabited and the remains of all horribly frightful and amazing I shall not here lament the sad traverses and vicissitudes of things and the usual changes and chances of mortal life or upbraid the Greeks of luxury and stupidity which have brought these horrid desolations upon their Countrey these are very useful but very mean and ordinary speculations That which affected me with the deepest anguish and most sorrowful resentment when I was upon the place and does still was and is a reflexion upon the threat made against Ephesus mentioned in the second Chapter of the Revelations of St. John who made his abode in that City and died there Remember from whence thou art fallen and do the first works or else I will come unto thee quickly and will remove thy Candlestick out of its place except thou repent And upon a farther and more serious consideration as I sorrowfully walked through the ruines of that City especially I concluded most agreeably not only to my function but to the nature of the thing and I am confident no wise or good man who shall cast his eyes upon these loose and hasty observations will deny the conclusion to be just and true that the sad and direful calamities which have involved these Asian Churches ought to proclaim to the present flourishing Churches of Christendom as much as if an Angel were sent express from Heaven to denounce the judgment what they are to expect and what may be their case one day if they follow their evil example that their Candlestick may be removed too except they repent and do their first works and that their security lyes not so much in the strength of their frontiers and the greatness of their armies for neither of these could defend the Eastern Christians from the invasion and fury of the Saracens and Turks as in their mutual agreements and in the virtues of a Christian life A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF CONSTANTINOPLE COnstantinople seems to have the advantage of most Cities in the World for situation either in respect of the pleasantness of its prospect or for security against the attaques of an enemy it being naturally fortified and might be made impregnable by art or for its narrow passage into Asia as if in all changes and revolutions of government designed by God for the chief seat of Empire and command The high hills upon which it is seated add much to the beauty and glory of it several knots of Cypress-trees appearing 〈◊〉 set upon them that to one sailing in the Propontis it looks like a City placed in the middle of a wood but in the haven it resembles a great Amphitheatre the houses like so many steps rising orderly one above another the gilded spires of the Moschs reflecting the light with great pleasure to the eye so that to all travellers it seems justly the most delightful the most admirable and most charming spectacle of nature and what would even satisfy for the tediousness and fatigues of a Sea-voyage were there nothing in it to please the fancy or curiosity besides Though it lies upon the Sea yet on both sides the passages to it are so narrow that there can be no coming at it without great difficulty The entrance to it toward the Mediterranean is by the Hellespont which is there about five miles over where is a perpetual current into the Archipelago which is strong and violent and especially when the wind is at North which blows for the most part here and at Constantinople eight or nine months of the twelve the want of a Southerly wind which is necessary to get up the channel making the passage very long and tedious Neer the two head lands the Turks have since the beginning of the war of Candia built two Castles to prevent the landing of the Venetians who before past unmolested with their ships and galleys up as high as the Dardanels In the Castle on the level within Cape Janizary anciently Promontorium Sigaeum on the Asian shore I counted six and twenty great guns in front and about sixteen on the side toward Tenedos A little above at the end of a long sand is the river Scamander Sailing directly in the middle of the stream the guns can do no great execution The Hellespont widens hence Eastward till almost at an equal distance between the Aegaean and Propontick Seas for it ends at Gallipoli you arrive at the narrowest strait being scarce three quarters of an English mile over where are two strong Castles to command the passage which the Turks call Boghashisar or the Castles in the strait or jaws of the channel but better known to the Christians by the name of the Dardanelli directly opposite to one another The Castle of Sestos on Europe side lying under a hill is triangular having twenty five guns level with the water and a Bastion at each angle in the middle an high Tower consisting of three semicircles encompassing a square fortification Abydus on the opposite shore lies in a plain the Castle square having about sixteen guns which almost touch the surface of the water On the sides are raised round Towers and in the middle an oblong work The strength of these Castles is the great security of Constantinople no ships being able to get
by without manifest danger of being sunk and if at any time a ship or gally coming from Constantinople have part helpt forward by the current and a brisk Northerly gale it ought not to be ascribed so much to good fortune or a wily stratagem as to the carelesness and stupidity of the Castellans For any but Turks who do not well understand fortification and the use of great guns to make them bear to the best advantage would infallibly humanely speaking defend and secure the passage On the other side the Euxine Sea Constantinople is defended by the Bosphorus whose channel is about eighteen miles in length The first Castles which guard each side of it are about five miles from the City built by Mahomet the great from which about nine miles to the second where the distance between the two shores is not much above a mile The current so violent especially when the wind blows hard at North that the water-men who pass toward the black Sea are at such times forced to go ashore and hale their boats I observed in several places a ripling or bubbling of the water as in the Race at Portland In the several turnings and windings are large Bays for small Vessels made by the Promontories which run out so far that they seem at a distance to stop the passage especially on the Thracian shore upon which several Villages are situated and where the Bassa's and other great men have their villas and houses of pleasure The Bithynian shore for the most part covered with wild Olive Chesnut and Cypress-trees seems to be one continued wood or garden and yields a pleasant and curious entertainment to the eye Almost in the entrance or mouth of the Bosphorus are placed several rocks the Symplegades of the ancients which break the force of the waters continually poured out of the black Sea On Europe side I counted four which lye so close one to another that the Sea at some little distance not being discerned to run between they seem to joyn together In the greatest of them remains still a pillar of white marble of the Corinthian order about eighteen foot in height commonly called by the Western Christians Pompey's pillar as if it had been erected by that great man in memory of a victory gained over Mithridates King of Pontus But this is the invention of an ignorant and trifling fancy taken up without any ground of reason or old tradition just after the same manner as they call the ruines which are neer Belgrade a Village about four miles from the Bosphorus by the name of Ovid's Tower and is sufficiently confuted by the inscription upon the basis where is plainly legible the name of Augustus Caesar though the remaining part is so effaced that conjectures are different But the best and truest I take to be this AVGVSTO CAESARI E. CLAV ANNIDIVS LE. CLASSIS I PONTO On the neighbouring shore is a Pharus or Watch-Tower a very stately and elegant structure and built long before the Turks were masters of a foot of land in Europe now serving for a light house to direct Vessels in the nigh to enter the Bosphorus with greater ease and safety which I ascended that I might take the better view of the Euxine which not so much for want of good Ports as for their ignorance in the Mariners art becomes in foul and stormy weather so dangerous and fatal to the Turks This situation of Byzantium between two Seas rendred it a place of great trade commerce long before the times of Constantine who restored it to its ancient glory out of its rubbish the Emperor Severus through indignation and revenge for the long and stout opposition the Citizens made in favour of Pescennius Niger having long before ruined and demolished it All the products and commodities of Greece Aegypt and Mauritania may with great ease and convenience of shipping be brought hither It joyns upon the lesser Asia where Souldiers and all sorts of provision may be conveyed in an hours space Besides the various nations which inhabit all along the coasts of the Pontick Sea and the lake of Maeotis here find a quick vent for their merchandise as do the several Christian Nations as the Cossacks Moldavians and Wallachians and those of Podolia who live either toward the Sea or nigh the great rivers of Boristhenes or the Danube beside the Persian and Armenian Merchants and those of Christendom So that however the winds chance to blow Ships may come in continually from the one Sea or the other they are supplied especially from the black Sea with Corn Furs Wax Honey and the like The present name of Constantinople is Istanpol or according to the common and ordinary pronunciation Stambol which plainly shews it not to be originally Turkish for Istamboul a City full of or abounding with the true faith as some most ignorantly fancy but corrupted from the Greek the Turks for the most part retaining the old names of Cities though with some little variation accommodating them to their own language as Adriane Bursia Esmir Budun Saloniki Conia for Adrianople Prusia Smyrna Buda Thessalonica and Iconium It lies over against Scutari formerly Chrysopolis about the distance of a league on the other side of the water on the Bithynian shore which seems to be built out of the ruines of Chalcedon not far distant from it which is situated in the bottom of a narrow and shallow Bay It is now a poor beggarly Village having lost its old name and known only by that of Kadi-kuy though out of respect to what it was in ancient times it still retains the dignity of a Metropolitical seat among the Greeks the curious and stately Church consecrated to the memory of Saint Euphemia Virgin and Martyr being the only remainder of its formor greatness and magnificence But to return to Constantinople It is cast into a triangular figure the vertex of which is a point of land to the East called by the Greeks the Promontory of St. Demetrius on which is built the Seraglio or Palace of the Emperor The greater side which lies upon the Propontis runs N. W. and S. E. about the space of six miles from the point to the seven Towers The other side which makes the haven winding like a horn called therefore by Strabo 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 lies East and West and may be almost three miles in lenght The basis is the Isthmus which unites it to the Champaign and Continent of Thrace and lies meridionally from the Sea to the upper part of the haven almost four miles long having three walls running in a strait line as far as the ruines of Costantines Palace neer which is the greatest eminence of the City where is a turning at a small distance from the Port and only a single wall like the other two sides which are washed with the Sea So that the compass of the whole is between twelve and
thirteen miles the latitude various and at about two miles at the widest which is caused by the approach or distance of the several parts of the opposite angles It is advantageously placed as I said before upon the rising of several hills seven of which are most conspicuous for their great heigth most of them have upon their tops very stately Moschs built after the model of Sancta Sophia whose cuppolas and pyramids seem almost to reach the clouds But of these Moschs I shall have occasion to speak distinctly No place perchance in the World deceives a mans expectation more than Constantinople it promising so largely at a distance both from the land and Sea but when you enter into it all the glorious outward appearance seems but a delusion of fancy The streets narrow and unequal and by reason of their steepiness in several places troublesome to walk in except one fair street which crosseth the City from the Seraglio to Adrianople gate And however the narrowness of the streets though it detracts much from the sightliness and beauty of a place may be excused for the benefit it affords in sheltering passengers from the rayes of the Sun yet the filth and nastiness is intolerable dunghils and great wastes of ground caused by fire being every where to be met with The ordinary houses are generally very low and mean and without any ornament of building or strong materials only a few bords clapt together and the walls of clay baked in the Sun Some few houses of the Greeks remain which are built of stone and high which shew what Constantinople was before the Turks cut and broke down all the carved and stone-work with their scymitars and axes and hammers and set fire upon the holy places and Palaces and pull'd down the Cross and set up their half-Moon instead of it The Bassas houses are but little better no portico or pillar at the entrance no curious walks adorned with rows of trees in their gardens no pictures or statues no hangings no fret-work in their ceiling their outward Courts rude and irregular They take up indeed a great compass of ground and the portals are checkered with several colours as red blue yellow their rooms are above stairs which lead into a gallery or hall the chambers little boxes the chief furniture of which lies upon the floor though sometimes the roof is gilt and the sides covered with tiles with flowers and foliage painted and sometimes though very rarely with cedarwainscot they being afraid to build rich and great Palaces not only because it would be lookt upon as an argument of a foolish and vain pride but also of ostentation of their riches and what might really prove a snare and draw the envy and ill-will of the Emperor upon them The walls are considerably thick and high and serve equally for defence and ornament Toward the Propontick there runs a ledge of rocks under water at some distance from the shore which keeps off Ships of greater burthen and only admits Galleys and Brigantines which draw but little water Part of this wall weakned by the violence of the waves or thrown down by earthquakes was repaired and rebuilt by the Emperor Theophilus this inscription being to be found in several places 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Under the Seraglio-point upon a platform about four or five and twenty feet broad to the wall gained from the Sea are planted about fifty pieces of Cannon one of which they are very chary of as being the first which was discharged at the siege of Bagdat which they afterwards so succesfully carried on to which is opposite a small Castle not far from the other shore which they call by the name of Kizkolasi or the Virgin Tower These walls are built of free-stone and only here and there pieced up with brick and uneven stones clapt in a few breaches being left I suppose out of design unrepaired in the wall to the landward made by their guns when they lay before it Here in the uppermost wall of the three are about two hundred and fifty square Towers with battlements built at an equal distance to the middle space of which answer other Towers in the second wall making so many isosceles triangles the third a plain wall now sunk very much in the ground the ditch from the high-way to the skirts of it being about five and twenty of my paces Without are no suburbs except two or three farm-houses and toward the haven the Countrey lying open which renders the prospect of Constantinople as pleasant and glorious to the eye upon the land as upon the Sea and indeed the walk from the seven Towers where I had occasion to go often to the haven all along these walls seemed to be the most delightful and diverting of all that ever I took in my whole life The gates are about five and twenty in number whereof seven are toward the Propontis in this order beginning from the Seraglio point Achur-kapi or the Stable-gate nigh which are the stables of the Grand Signor Chatlad-kapi or the Cleft-gate Kum-kapi or the Sand-gate Jeni-kapi or the new gate Daoud Bassa-kapi repaired by a Basha of that name and hence it takes its denomination Samathia-kapi Narli-kapi or the Pomegranate-gate To the landward these which front the West Jedicoula-kapi or the gate of the seven Towers which some wholly ignorant of the Turkish language have through a gross mistake called Janicula Selivrea-kapi the gate which leads to Selymbria Top-kapi or the Gun-gate Jeni-kapi or the new gate Edriane-kapi or Adrianople-gate as leading directly thither Egri-kapi or the crooked gate Ivanseri-kapi in the plain not far from the water side To the Haven Balat-kapi I suppose corrupted from Palatium leading up towards the ruines of the Palace of Constantine as they commonly call them This gate is in the furthest recess of the Canal or arm of the Sea dividing Constantinople from Pera and Galata into which run two little rivers which have long since lost the ancient names of Cydrus and Barbyses Petri-kapi I suppose from a Christian Church neer it dedicated formerly to the honour and memory of St. Peter Phanar-kapi 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or the Lanthorn-gate Here and at Gun-gate the Turks first broke into the City the poor Greeks having raised a wall upon the side of the hill not daring to trust to that by the water side to this day called by them in their vulgar language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Gebali-kapi or the Hill-gate or as others pronounce it Giob-ali the deep Well-gate Vnkaban-kapi or the Meal-gate neer which are the publick granaries Odun-kapi or the Wood-gate over which may yet be seen this moral sentence 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Yemish-kapi or the Fruit-gate Balukbazar-kapi or the Fishmarket-gate Balkaban-kapi or the Honey-gate Zindan-kapi or the Prison-gate Bahchia-kapi or the Garden-gate hard by the Seraglio The Emperor's Palace which the Turks call Padisha
now remain if they had fallen into other hands than those of Turks who make a greater ravage where-ever they come than either earthquakes or time it self The few remaining pieces of Antiquity are these The Circus or Hippodrome is about two or three furlongs in length and almost half as wide At one end of it is a large Colossus or Pillar the top of it broken down having suffered much by fire and therefore called by the Franks la Colonna brugiata in whose basis these verses are engraven 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 About the middle there remains an entire Aguglia or Obelisk of a kind of Granite or Theban marble commonly called the Hieroglyphical pillar by reason of the several figures of animals and other representations engraven upon the sides according to the Egyptian Priests and Philosophers who used to involve some trivial slight notices of religion and nature in such dark and perplext characters It is of a square figure the four sides making so many equilateral triangles which are sensibly contracted as they rise higher and higher till they end in a cone That which makes it the more admirable is that it is one entire stone 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as both Codinus and Manuel Chrysaloras call it whereas the Colossus consists of several pieces The Emperour Theodosius raised it again upon its basis after it had been cast down to the ground in all probability by an earthquake to which this City is subject as the double inscription attests the one in Greek on the side to the West the other in Latine to the East which while I read with so much ease the Turks who stood by such was their ignorance and stupidity were amazed and enquiring after the sense and meaning seemed hugely pleased and satisfied with what I told them 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 DIFFICILIS QUONDAM DOMINIS PARERE SERENIS JUSSUS ET EXTINCTIS PALMAM PORTARE TYRANNIS OMNIA THEODOSIO CEDVNT SVBOLIVOVE PERENNI TERDENIS SIC VICTUS EGO DOMITUSQUE DIEBUS IVDICE SUB PROCLO SUPERAS ELATUS AD AURAS In the same Piazza is a pillar of wreathed brass hollowed at the top of which are the necks and heads of three Serpents which shut out at an equal distance triangular-wise This in all probability was designed a Talisman but whether made by that famous Conjurer Apollonius Tyanaeus who resided here some time is uncertain to preserve the City from Serpents that might annoy them this being one of the pretended wonderful effects of natural Magick according to the credulity and superstition of those times which some fanciful men of late have very idly and foolishly gone about to make out and justify The Porphyry pillar of Constantine the great which he brought from old Rome on the top of which he placed his own statue in brass still remains in Taouk-bazar bound about in several places of the shaft where the pieces joyn with brass hoops but the marble is much defaced and blackened by fire the statue having been long time tumbled down In Aurat-bazar or the womens market upon an eminence stands another pillar which is seen at a great distance by such as sail upon the Propontis it rises to the heigth of about an hundred and forty feet the top being broken off to which they ascended by a winding pair of stairs several figures in basso rilievo are engraven upon it which relate to a warlike expedition of the Emperour Arcadius upon which accompt among the Frankes it has got the name of the Historical pillar In the Western part of the City toward the Campaigne but not far from the haven are the remains of a certain palace called by the Turks Tekir Serai and by the Greeks supposed to be that of Constantine who was the last Emperour and the Son of an Helena too the last fate as well as first glory of Constantinople deriving from the same names In the lower part there is only left standing a chamber adorned with curious wrought pillars of the Corinthian order and above a large stately hall The other places are filled and stuffed up with ruines That Constantinople tho lying upon the Sea might not be destitute of fresh water which is so useful and necessary to life was the chief care of the Emperour Valentinian who caused aqueducts to be raised by which the water is conveyed to the City from hill to hill in a winding compass the space of eighteen miles But these by the sloth and carelesness of the Greeks and Turks falling to decay and rendred useless were restored and refitted by the Emperor Suleiman who was so intent upon this great work that he said he would go on with it although the laying every stone stood him in a purse of money that is five hundred dollars and it was one of the three things he so earnestly wisht he might live to effect the other two being the finishing of the Mosch which bears his name and the making himself Master of Vienna The springs arise hard by a Village called Domus-deri which lies toward the black Sea whose waters are conveyed partly through little channels and partly through pipes under ground into several large cisterns nigh which are summer houses floored and sometimes the cieling painted and the sides crusted with a kind of porcellane the tops rising pyramidally where the better sort of Turks in the heats of summer retire to enjoy the cool air and for the shady walks bringing sometimes their women with them and spend there several days pitching their tents for their better accommodation Here it is and here alone that they seem to live gentily and understand how to make use of the conveniences and delights of nature Every one here is a Prince and fancies himself for a time in Paradise These cisterns are of different figures square round oblong hexagonal made of free-stone the bottom either paved or plaistered over into which you descend by a pair of stairs sometimes twenty foot deep Two of these above the rest are very stately both within a mile of Belgrade the one to the East the other to the South-west From this latter the waters are conveyed to the first Aqueduct neer a Greek Village called Pyrgos the Christians of which as of the neighbouring Villages are free from paying haratch or head-money for their care in looking after the waters This is a very magnificent pile of building and of a great length with a double range of arches about eight and forty or fifty in number joyning two hills and in the middle to the bottom of the valley it may be about one hundred feet the water running in a covered channel at the top Not far on the other side of the plain is another great
Aqueduct which makes an angle having three ranges of arches one above another On one line are two and twenty arches in the uppermost range through which and the other below it are two galleries about five foot wide in some places shut up on each side in others open at the regular distance of about twelve foot the contrivance was but necessary for after the fall of rains or melting of the snow which in some winters lies here very deep there are such bogs below in the valleys that no horse can pass that way the other line is shorter and consists of twelve arches which grow less and less according to the greater or lesser steepiness of the hill Hence about a mile you pass to a third Aqueduct which indeed is a most splendid and glorious structure containing only four arches in two ranges the distance of the sides of the arches being above fifty foot This Aqueduct is raised to a great heigth whence the waters pass in an uninterrupted course and fall into a large cistern in the City neer Sultan Selims Mosch and so by earthen pipes are conveyed to the several houses The Greeks have six and twenty Churches in Constantinople and six in Galata of which I have given an account elsewhere Galata as it appears from an old survey in the times of the Emperors Arcadius and Honorius made up the thirteenth and fourteenth Regions that there might be the same number in new Rome as Constantine would have his new City also called as in the old It is situated on the North side of the haven by which it is divided from Constantinople The passage is very easy and a great number of boat-men get their living by carrying passengers to and again continually This arm of the Sea is about half a mile wide and in length from the Seraglio-point to the fresh water rivers between four and five miles of a great depth that Ships of a considerable burthen may lye with their bolt-sprits ashore and have several fathoms of water at the stern and so secure withal being shut up with the several high hills and promontories which break the force and violence of the wind and waves that let the weather be never so ill and the Sea boisterous in the Propontis the Vessels are not in the least stirred with it in this narrow strait The Arsenal is to the West where there are several voltas or chambers built arch-wise where they hall up their Galleys after the summer expedition is over Galata of it self both for the compass of the ground it takes up and its strength may be justly accounted a large City and is very populous It is encompassed with walls flankered with towers built by the Emperor Anastasius having a wide and deep ditch to the landward It runs along the side of a hill higher than those of Constantinople and in several places is very steep Formerly toward the declension of the Greecian Empire it was in the possession of the Genoueses the arms of some noble Families of that republick are still here and there to be seen engraven in the walls Without which both upon the ridge of the hill and upon the plain farther in toward and parallel with the haven are several large streets which whole tract of ground by reason of its situation on the other side of the water is therefore called by the Greek name Pera where most of the Christian Ambassadors choose both for their convenience and privacy to make their residence FINIS Books sold by Moses Pitt at the Angel in St. Paul's Church-yard Folio THE Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier a Noble Man of France now living through Turkey into Persia and the East-Indies finished in the year 1670. 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