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A12718 England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland described and abridged with ye historic relation of things worthy memory from a farr larger voulume done by Iohn Speed.; Theatre of the Empire of Great Britaine. Abridgements Speed, John, 1552?-1629.; Keere, Pieter van den, ca. 1571-ca. 1624, engraver.; Camden, William, 1551-1623. Britannia. 1627 (1627) STC 23035; ESTC S103213 178,357 376

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and the Trinobantes as their Writers declare and in the Heptar●hy was possessed by the East-Saxons excepting some small portion thereof that the Mercian Kings enioyned The Danes also in their ouer-runnings sought to stay themselues in this Shire and at Ware then Weare pitched downe their rest and hope for passing the Lea in their light Pinnaces and Shallops raised therein a Fort which maugre the English they kept vntill that by the wise police of King Elfred that Riuer was parted into to more running streames whereby their Ships perished and they intercepted both of prouision and farther supply 5 The Romans before them had made Verolaxium in this Shire their greatest for account which in Neroes time was a Municipiall as Nimus in his Catalogue of Cities doth call it or as Tacitus a Free Towne sacked by Boduo that euer eternized Queene of the Ictanians when seuenty thousand of the Romans and Consecrates by her reuenging sword perished the site and circuit whereof in this Card we haue set according to our view and measure there taken whose magnificence for Port and stately Architecture were found by her large and arched Vaults in the dayes of King Edgar which were digged into and cast downe by 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 Abbots of S. Albanes for that they were the receptacles and lurking holes of 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 the ruines of which haue raised the beautie of her suruiuing and faire S. Albanes where 〈◊〉 the great Mercian in great deuotion built a most stately 〈◊〉 whose Church yet standing retaineth the ashes of many Nobles there slaine in the quarrell of Yorke and Lancaster and a Font of solid brasse brought out of Scotland by Sir Richara Lea from the siege of L●eth 6 Many other Townes both for Commerce stately Buildings and of ancient Record this Shire affordeth whereof Hertford though the Shire-Towne is not the richest the passage thorow Ware hath left her wayes so vntrodden to preuent which in former times that Riuer at Ware was chained vp and the Bayliffe of Hertford had the custody of the Key which howsoeuer they haue lost yet hath the Towne gotten her Gouernour to be preferred from the name of a Bilisse vnto a Maior assisted with nine Burg●sses a Recorder and two Sergeants their Attendants Herein a Castle for situation pleasant for Trench Walles and Riuer sufficiently fenced was lately seene but marked to destinie as the Towne to decay hath found the hand of Fortune to ouermatch her strength and to ruinate the Priory S. Nicholas and S. Maries Churches besides a Cell of S. Albanes Monkes that therein were seated The like fate fals vnto Hemsled and her faire Castle wherein Richard King of the Romans left his life Yet Lingely is graced both in the birth of Prince Edmund the fifth sonne to King Edward the third and the buriall of Richard the second that vnfortunate King who in the Cell of Fryers Preachers was there first buried but afterwards remooued and enshrined at Westminster And in another Langley neere the East from thence was borne that Pontificall Break-speare Bishop of Rome knowne by the name of Hadrian the fourth and famous for his stirrup-holding by Fredericke the Emperour whose breath was lastly stopped by a Flie that flew into his mouth 7 The ciuill Battles that in this Shire haue beene sought in the Map it selfe are inserted and therefore here omitted but the more ancient remembred vnto vs by Osister-hill neere S. Albans whom the judicious Combden supposeth to haue beene the Campe of Ostorius the second Lieutenant and Subdue● of great Caractatus as also seuen small round Hils betwixt Sieuennedge and Ku●●worth in which are supposed some Romane Souldiers to lie buried 8 Religious Houses built and suppressed the chiefest for account in this Shire were S. Albans Ro●ston Ware Sopwell Langeley besides them at Hertford whom Beda cals Horudford which Cities graduation is distant and remoued from the Equator 52. degrees 5. minutes of Latitude and set from the first point of the West according to Mercator in the 20 degree 29. minutes of Longitude The ●●●domes whereof were enioyed onely by tho●● two honourable 〈◊〉 whose atchieuements we haue also therein expressed BEDFORD-SHIRE CHAPTER XX. BEDFORD-SHIRE seated in the South-East of this Iland is a plaine and champion Country and lyeth bounded vpon the North with Huntington-shire vpon the East with Cambridge and Hartford-shires vpon the South with Hartford and Buckingham-shires and vpon the West with Buckingham and Northampton-shires 2 The forme thereof is somwhat ouall and not very large for from Tilbroke in the North vnto Stu●●am in the South are but twentie-foure English miles and from Turny in the West vnto Hatley Coking in the East are not fully foureteene the whole in Circumference about seauenty three miles 3 The Ayre is temperate and the Soile bounteous especially the North whose Borders the fruitfull Ouse with her many windings watereth The South is more leane and with greater industry bringeth forth Barley no better else-where Generally this County is Champion though some places be sprinkled with Pasturage and Woods 4 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romanes that held in this Shire were part of the Cattieuchlani a stout and warre-strring people and yet vpon the report of Caesars proceeding sent him their subiection for peace But when that conquering Nation had brought Britaine into a Prouince vnder Rome their Legions lay at Selenae and Magintum which are now Sandy and Dunstable places of memorable note in this Shire After them the Saxons coueting for so faire a Seate first dispossessed the Britaines vnder the leading of Cuthwulfe the West-Saxon about the yeare of Grace 572. who making it their owne was lastly enioyed by the Mercians as a part of their Kingdome 5 In the yeare of Christs Incarnation 1399 immediately before those Ciuill Warres that rent in pieces the peace of this Land betweene the Princes of Lancaster and Yorke the Riuer Ouse neere vnto Harwood stood sodainly still and refrained to passe any farther so that forward men passed three miles together on foot in the very depth of her Channell and backward the waters swelled vnto a great height which was obserued by the judicious to foretell some vnkinde diuision that shortly should arise 6 This Countie among the common calamities of the Land when it lay trampied vnder the fect of the Danes sustained a part and after that in the time of King Stephen when the Ciuill Warres thundred betwixt Maud the Empresse and himselfe the Shire-Towne was sore wasted with great slaughter of men So when the Barons forsooke their allegeance to King Iohn the Towne and Castle were rendred vp vnto their hands and lastly by King Henry the third laid leuell euen with the ground some ruinous walles appearing towards the Ouse but not a stone left vpon the Mount where stood his foundation 7 This Towne by the Britaine 's was called Lettidur and of vs Bedford being the chiefest in the Countie from whom it taketh the name and is most fruitfull and
the onely Vniuersities then in Europe should be erected Schooles for the Hebrew Greeke Arabicke and Chaldean tongues and that Oxford should be the generall Vniuersitie for all England Ireland Scotland and Wales which point was likewise of such weight with the Councell of Constance that from this precedent of Oxford Vniuersitie it was concluded that the English Nation was not onely to haue precedence of Spaine in all Generall Councels but was also to be held equall with France it selfe By which high prerogatiues this of ours hath alwayes so flourished that in the dayes of King Henry the 〈◊〉 thirtie thousand Students were therein resident as Archbishop Armachanus who then liued 〈◊〉 writ and ●…ger then also liuing sheweth that for all the ciuill warres which hindered such 〈◊〉 of quiet studie yet 15000. Students were there remaining whose names saith he were 〈◊〉 in matricula in the matriculation booke About which time Iohn Baltol the father of Baltol King of Scots built a Colledge yet bearing his name Anno 1269. and Walter Merton Bishop of Rochester that which is now called Merton Colledge both of them beautified with buildings and enriched with lands and were the first endowed Colledges for learning in all Christendome And at this present 〈◊〉 sixteene Colledges besides another newly builded with eight Hals and many most 〈…〉 Churches all adorned with most stately buildings and enriched with great endowments noble Libraries and most learned Graduates of all professions that vnlesse it be her sister Cambridge the other nursing breast of this Land the like is not sound againe in the world This Citie is also honoured with an Episcopall See As for the site thereof it is remoued from the Equator in the degree 52. and one minute and from the West by Mercators measure 19. degrees and ●0 minutes 8 As this Countie is happie in the possession of so famous an Academie so is it graced with most Princely Palaces appertaining to the English Crowne whereof Woodstocke is the most ancient and magnificent built to that glory by King Henry the first and enlarged with a Labyrinth of many windings by King Henry the second to hide from his jealous Iuno his intirely beloued Concubine Rosamond Clifford a Damosell of surpassing beautie where notwithstanding followed by a clew of silke that fell from her lap she was surprised and poisoned by Queene Eleanor his wife and was first buried at Godstow Nunnery in the midst of the Quire vnder a Hearse of silke set about with lights whom Hugh Bishop of Lincolne thinking it an vnfit obiect for Virgins deuotion caused to be remoued into the Church yard but those chaste sisters liked so well the memory of that kinde Lady as that her bones they translated againe into their Chappell Bensington is another of his Majesties Mannours built by William de la Pole Duke of Suffolke but now in neglect through the anno●ance arising from the waters or marishes adioyning Houses built for deuotion and for abuse suppressed and againe put downe the chiefe in account were Enisham Osney Bru●rn Godstow Burchester and Tame besides S. Frideswides and very many other stately Houses of Religion in the Citie GLOCESTER-SHIRE CHAPTER XXIII GLOCESTER-SHIRE lyeth bordered vpon the North with Worcester and Warwicke-shires vpon the East with Oxford and Wileshire vpon the South altogether with Sommerset-shire and vpon the West with the Riuer Wye and Hereford-shire 2 The length thereof extended from Bristow vpon the Riuer Auon in her South vnto Clifford vpon another Auon in her North are about fortie eight miles and her broadest part from East to West is from Lechlad vnto Preston containing twentie eight the whole circumference about one hundred thirtie eight miles 3 The forme whereof is somewhat long and narrow the Ayre thereof is pleasant sweet and delectable and for fruitfulnesse of Soile heare Malmesbury and not me The ground of this Shire throughout saith he yeeldeth plentie of Corne and bringeth forth abundance of fruits the one through the naturall goodnesse onely of the ground the other through the diligent manuring and tillage in such wise that it would prouoke the laziest person to take paines Here you may see the High-wayes and Common Lanes clad with Apple trees and Peare trees not ingrafted by the industry of mans hand but growing naturally of their owne accord the ground of it selfe is so inclined to beare fruits and those both in taste and beautie farre exceeding others and will endure vntill a new supply come There is not any Country in England so thicke set with Vineyards as this Prouince is so plentifull of increase and so pleasant in taste The very wines made thereof carry no vnpleasant tartnesse as being little inferiour in sweet verdure to the French wines the houses are innumerable the Churches passing faire and the Townes standing very thicke But that which addeth vnto all good gifts a speciall glory is the Riuer Seuerne then which there is not any in all the Land for Channell broader for Streame swifter or for Fish better stored There is in it a daily rage and fury of waters which I know not whether I may call a Gulfe or Whirle-pole of waues raising vp the sands from the bottome winding and driuing them vpon heapes sometimes ouerflowing her bankes ro●eth a great way vpon the face of her bordering grounds and againe retyreth as a Conquerour into the vsuall Channell Vnhappy is the Vessell which it taketh full vpon the side but the Water-men well ware thereof when they see that Hydra comming turne the Vessell vpon it and cut thorow the midst of it whereby they checke and auoyd her violence and danger 4 The ancient people that possessed this Prouince were the DOBVNI who spread themselues further into Oxford shire But betwixt the Seuerne and Wye were seated part of SILVRES or Inhabitants of South Wales And vpon what ground I know not let Lawyers dispute it the Inhabitants in some part of this Shire enioy a priuate custome to this day that the Goods and Lands of Condemned Persons fall vnto the Crowne but onely for a yeare and a day and then returne to the next heires contrary to the custome of all England besides 5 The general Commodities of this Shire are Corne Iron and Wools all passing fine besides Pasturage Fruits and Woods which last are much lessened by making of Iron the onely bane of Oke Elme and Beech. 6 These with all other prouisions are traded thorow twenty fiue Market-Townes in this County whereof two are Cities of no small import the first is Glocester from whom the Shire taketh name seated vpon Seuerne neere the middest of this Shire by Antonine the Emperour called Gleuum built first by the Romans and set as it were vpon the necke of the Silures to yoake them where their Le●ion called Colonia Gleuum lay It hath beene walled about excepting that part that is defended by the Riuer the ruines whereof in many places appeare and some part yet standing doth well witnesse their strength
Brus one of his heires from whose second Sonne Bernard the Familie of Cotton by lineall succession holdeth this Land whereto Glarton the adioyning Parish is now by bountie of a second branch annexed It was in this Shire the head of the honour of Belleine on which 〈…〉 Sibson 〈◊〉 and Ves●yes Mannor in Chesterton attended part of it is the fre●● Sea 〈◊〉 foure mile 〈◊〉 bredth ouer which when Emma and her Children the issue of Canuti● sayled with some perill her Husband in preuention of the like from Bottsey in a strait course to the opposite firme land lined with his Attendant Swords that passage which since hath borne the name of Swords Delph Kings or Canutus dyke This Seignory was granted by the Conquerour to Eustace Earle of Bollein Brother to Lambert Earle of Leins and Father to Godfrey King of Ierusalem reuerting it was giuen to Richard Earle of Cornwall who granted out of it the two Meeres Vbbe Meere and Brich Meere in Fee-Farme to the Church of Ramsey Then after sundry changes it came to Iohn of Gaunt in exchange of the Earledome of Richmond and so by descent fell againe into the Crowne Washingley not farre off from the ancient Lord of that name by D●we and Otter came to the Prices that now posseth it In Chesterton from Wadsheafe by Dennyes there is to the Beuils an ancient name in this Shire a Mannor descended The rest from Aegidius de Merke who gaue there much to Royston Priory passed by Amundeuill to Gloucester and so to Vesey by exchange In Elton the house rich in a beautious Chappell from Denham to Sapcotes and Saultre Beaumes from that surname neere the time of the Conquest by Louth to Cornwallis descended as Bottlebridge by Gimels Drayton Louet vnto Sherley the now Lord. 9 LETTVNESTAN HVNDRED hath that name from Leighton a Towne in the middest of it giuen by Earle Waltheof to the Church of Lincolne which after shared it into two Prebendaries One the Parsonage impropriate which still remaineth the other the Lordships was resumed by Henry the eight and now by the Heire of Darcy matched to the Lord Clifton is become the seate of his Barony This Hundred had in it no house of Religion but Stonley a Priorie of seauen blacke Channons of the order of S. Augustine founded by the Bigrames and at the Suppression valued at 62. l. 12. s 3. d ob It stood within the reach of the great Mannor Kimbolton once an Hundred which was the land of Earle Harold the Vsurper after by Graunt it came with the Chase of Swinesheued to Fitz-Peter from whom by Magnauil to Bohum who in time of the 〈◊〉 Barons built there a Forcelet and so to Stafford by whose attainturre forsaited it was giuen by Henry the eight to the Familie of Wingfield that now possesseth it At Bugden the See of Lincolne hath a seate and was Lord of Spaldwick and the Soke giuen in compensation from the Church of Ely when rent from them it was by the first Henry made a Bishopricke vntill of late that Church gaue vp their interest in Spaldwicke to the Crowne Brampton was giuen by King Iohn at Mirabel to Earle Dauid and by Ada his youngest Daughter fell to Hastings Earle of Pembroke and now is reuerted to the King To the same Earle Dauid by gift of the former King came Alcumesbury and by the bounty of Iohn Scot his sonne to Segraue and so to the Lord Barkley the late possessor To Quincy●arle ●arle of Winthester was Keston by Henry the second giuen by whose Heyre generall Ferrars it came to the late Earle of Essex and by exchange to the Crowne 10 TOVLESLAND HVNDRED taketh name likewise of a Towne therein situate In the out Angle of this to the memory of S. Neotus a Monke of Glasterbury but the supposed sonne to 〈◊〉 King of the West-Saxons whose body from 〈◊〉 in Cornwall was transferred to Arnalphesbury then of Arnulphus a holy man now Eynesbury named Earle Alrick and Ethelfleda turned the Palace of Earle Elfred into a Monastery of blacke Monkes which was razed by the Danes but out of the ashes of this Roisia wife to Richard the sonne of Earle Gilbert to God our Lady de Becco and S. Neot as a Cell to the Abbey of Becco in Normandy erected vp of blacke Monkes in the yeare 1113. the late Priorie of S. Nedes suppressed by Henry the eight and valued at 256. l. 15. d q. At Southo the Land of Eustachius the Sheriffe Louetote made the seate of that Seignory on which in this Shire 13. Knights Fees and a halfe depended But from his line by gift of Verdon and Vesey drowned were these in the honour of Gloucester Neare to this at Cretingsbury dwelt Sir Adam de Cretings famous in Edward the thirds warres of France whose Heyre Generall Wanton doth now possesse it Staunton giuen by the first William to Gilbert de Gaunt after the death issuelesse of De Rupes escheated to the King who gaue it to Ioan his sister Queene of Scots She on the Abbey of Tarent bestowed part the rest reuerting being giuen to Segraue descended to the Barons of Berkly Godmanchester or Gormonchester so named of that Dane to whom Aelfred at his conuersion granted some regiment in these parts was the olde land of the Crowne now the Inhabitants in fee farme by grant of King Iohn pro Sexies viginti libris pondere numero It is flat seated by as fruitfull and flowry Meadowes as any this Kingdome yeeldeth and is the most spacious of any one Parish in fertile tillage oft hauing waited on their Soueraigne Lords with ninescore Ploughes in a rurall pompe Some from the name Gunicester which this often beareth in record suppose it the Citie where Machutus placed his Bishops Chayre But for certaine it was that Romane Towne Durosipont of the Bridges named so many hundred yeares vntill the light of our Britain● Story ouershone it forgotten Thus as this Citie so the olde Families haue beene here with time outworne few onely of the many former now remaining whose Surnames before the raigne of the last Henry were in this Shire of any eminency But Non indignemur mortalia Nomina solui Cernimus exemplis Oppida posse mort Let 's not repine that Men and names doe dye Since stone-built Cities dead and ruin'd lye RVTLAND-SHIRE CHAPTER XXIX RVTLAND-SHIRE the least of any County in this Realme is circulated vpon the North with Lincolne-shire vpon the East and South by the Riuer Weland is parted from Northampton shire and the West is altogether held in with Leicester-shire 2 The forme thereof is round and no larger in compasse then a light horse-man can easily ride about in a day vpon which occasion some will haue the Shire named of one Rut that so rode But others from the rednesse of the Soile will haue it called Rutland and so the old English-Saxons called it for that Roet and Rut is in their tongue Red with vs and may very well
but sendeth out great prouision thereof to others to supply their defects and although the ground may seeme dry and stony or vnpleasant and nothing sightly wherein for the outward qualitie it resembleth some other parts of Wales that are not so fruitfull yet for the inward bounties of nature it is farre vnlike for aboue all the Coasts of Wales it is most plentifull of Wheat insomuch as by Giraldus Cambrensis report they are wont to say in Welsh by way of a Prouerbe Mon Mam Combry which is to say Mon is the mother of Wales for that when other Countries haruest failes round about or their prouision is exhaust and drawne dry this alone like a prouident and full-brested mother is able to sustaine the rest Whereunto Nature most prouidently hath added another benefit seruiceable and necessary to the former in that the Country produceth also those kinde of stones which are called Mol●res is of all other fittest to make Mill-stones or Grind-stones In some places also it yeeldeth an earth of Alumino●● qualitie out of which some not long since began to make Alom and Coperose who like vnflesht Souldiers gaue ouer their enterprise without further hope because at first they saw it not answere their ouer-hastie expectations 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ord●●ices mentioned before in the precedent Prouinces of Denbigh-shire Flint-shire and Carnaruon-shire And this very Iland was that ancient and so much enobled seate of the British Druyds who so amated the Army of Romane inuaders as Tacitus reports and as else-where we haue related in the sixt Booke and seauenth Chapter of our ensuing History 6 This Nation was attempted first by Pa●linus Suetonius in the raigne of Nero but brought vnder the Romane Empire by Iulius Agricola When the Empire of the Romanes in Britaine began to decline and goe downeward some out of Ireland entred into this Isle by stealth and nestled themselues there as may be gathered by certaine mounts of earth entrenched about and yet to be seene which they call the I●●sh mens Cottages as also by a place named of the Irish-men yn Hieriey Gwidid who did there as is recorded put the Britaines to flight vnder the leading of Sinigus The Norwegians also were often infestuous to this Iland but King Ethelreds Fleet hauing in the yeare 1000. scowred the Seas round about this Isle far exceeded all both Irish and Norwegian depopulations for they wasted the Country in all hostile manner 7 After this two Hughs both Normans did greatly afflict this Iland The one being Earle of Chester the other of Shrewsbury at which very time Magnus the Norwegian arriuing there shot Hugh Earle of Shrewsbury through with an Arrow and departed after he had ransacked the Iland It was afterwards grieuously infested by the Englishmen who neuer gaue ouer from time to time to inuade it vntill in the raigne of King Edward the first it was wholly brought vnder his subiection 8 The principall Towne in this Isle is Beaumarish which the said King Edward the first built in the East side thereof and for the faire situation though in a Morish place gaue it the name which it now beareth whereas in times past it was called Bonouer which he also fortified with a goodly Castle 9 The Maior is the chiefest Magistrate of the Towno who is yearely chosen and hath the assistance and helpe of two Bailiffes two Sergeants at Mace and one Towne-Clerke by whose carefull diligence the affaires of this Towne are orderly managed and commanded whose Latitude is 54. and Longitude 15. 45. minutes 10 Not far from hence is Lhaanuais in times past a faire religious house of the Friars Minors which although it be now in a manner raced out of memory yet antiquitie maketh mention that it hath beene of great regard among the Kings of England who haue shewed themselues very bountifull Patrons vnto that Couent both in respect of the sanctimonious life of such as conuersed there as also because there the bodies of very eminent persons as the daughter of King Iohn the sonne of a King of the Danes as likewise of many great Lords Knights and Squires were enterred that were slaine in the warres against the Welsh in the time of many illustrious Kings of England 11 This Isle is reckoned to haue had anciently many Villages in it euen to the number of three hundred threescore and three and the same euen at this day is very well peopled The diuision of this I le for disposition of affaires that belong either to the state of the Cro●●● or to the condition of the Country is into six Hundreds in which are seated two Market-Townes and seuentie foure Parish-Churches for Gods diuine honour and worship CAERNARVON-SHIRE CHAPTER XIIII CAERNARVON-SHIRE in Welsh Sire Caer-ar-von so called because it is iust ouer against Anglesey which the Britaines call Mon and in composition was termed also Snowden-Forrest before Wales was laid into Shires the North-side whereof and the West butteth vpon the Irish Sea the South-side is inclosed with Merioneth and the East with Denbigh-shires from which it is seuered by the Riuer Conwey 2 The forme thereof is much like a wedge long and narrow toward the South and growing still wider towards the North so that from Penenkel-point South-ward to Orms-head-point Northward are fortie miles from the Riuer Conwey Eastward to the Riuer Llenoy Westward miles twentie and the whole circumference one hundred and ten miles 3 The Aire is sharpe and piercing by reason that the Country hath not naturall prouision to ensconce her selfe against the extremitie of winds and weather but especially as may be thought through the continuance of the Snow on the hils which also exclude the Suns aspect and warmth 4 The soile cannot be much commended for the fertilitie except those parts of the Sea-coasts which lye on the West towards Ireland but for the heart of this Shire it is altogether mountainous as if Nature had a purpose here by rearing vp these craggy hils so thicke together strongly to compact the ioynts of this our Iland and to frame the Inland part thereof for a fit place of refuge to the Britaines against those times of aduersitie which afterward did fall vpon them for no Army though neuer so strongly or scarce any Trauellers though neuer so lightly appointed can finde passage among those so many rough and hard Rockes so many Vales and Pooles here and there crossing all the wayes as ready obstacles to repell any Inroades of forraine a●●ailants These Mountaines may not vnfitly be termed the British Alpes as being the most vaste of all Britaine and for their steepnesse and cragginesse not vnlike to those of Italy all of them towring vp into the Aire and round encompassing one farre higher then all the rest peculiarly called Snowdon-Hill though the other likewise in the same sense are by the Welsh termed Cralg Er●ry as much as Snowy Mountaines taking their name as doth by Plinies testimony Niphates in Armenia and
saith Cambrensis is vneuen wooddy wilde waterish and boggy so full of Loghs and Meeres that great ponds of water are found vpon the high Mountaines These indeed make the places somewhat dangerous vnto all new commers by breeding of rheums dyssenteries and fluxes whose vsuall remedie is Vskebah a wholesome Aqua vita that drieth more and enflameth lesse then many other hot confections 7 The Commodities of this Kingdome chiefly consist in Cattle whose feed is so sweet and so ranke that they will soone graze to a surfet if they may be suffered to feed as they will Their sheepe are many but beare not the best wooll which twice are shorne within one yeare Of these they make Mantles Caddowes and Couerle●s vented from thence into forraine Countries Their Hobbies likewise are of great esteeme and are answerable to the ●ennets of Spaine Bees are there in such abundance that hony is found in holes of old trees and in rests of the rockes No annoyance of hurtfull Snake or venomous creatures and to speake all in a word nothing wanting for profit or pleasure for so much doth Giraldus affirme in saying that Nature had cast into this Westerne Kingdome of Zephyrus a more gracious eye then was ordinary 8 Touching the originall peopling of this faire Iland if we will beleeue their records they make antiquitie it selfe but young vnto themselues affirming the damsell Caesarea and niece vnto Noah to haue found it out before the Floud and that three hundred yeares after when Ia●hets posteritie tooke into these West-parts of the world one Barthela●●● of his progeny a S●ythian by birth encouraged by the late successe of N●●rod who now had intruded vpon the Monarchy of Syria wandred so farre West that Fortune at last cast him and his people vpon the coast of Ireland There he setled with his three sonnes Languinna Salarus and Ruthurgus who searching through euery creeke and corner of the Land left their owne names by three notable places Langui●● Stragrus and Mount Salanga which the reuolution of times hath since called by other names as S. Dominickhill Ruthurgi and Stag●●● Vnder the gouernment of these three sonnes and their off-spring this land was kept about three hundred yeares at which time there arriued also in Ireland a Giant-like kinde of people of Nimrods race who in bodily shape exceeded the proportion of vsuallmen vsing their strengths to winne 〈…〉 and to oppreste with rapine and violence These growing to numbers accounted it neces●ary to preuent dominion lest the curse of slauery prophecied by Noah should light vpon them to preuent the which they set vp a King of their owne then quarrels bred daily either parties purposing to hold their interest by their swords against whom lastly a battle was fought and an infinite company of Giants slaine when also died most of those of the posteritie of Iapheth leauing them of Cham Lords of Iland 9 Whereupon Nemethus a Scythian with his foure sonnes arriued in Ireland and by strong hand seated themselues among these Grants where for two hundred and sixtie yeares they kept but then no longer able to hold out against them they left their standings and departed the land 10 Soone after the fiue sonnes of Dela descended from the said Nemethus came into these coasts and with manly prowes●e droue these miscreants out of Ireland whereby the seed of Cham was vtterly expelled these of Iapheth diuided the land into fiue parts whereof they became themselues Kings but falling at variance gaue aduantage vnto others among whom the BRITAINES set in a foot 11 But to make this Iland more famous certaine Historians haue fetched their Kings from most vncertaine Records as namely from Gaothel the Grecian and Scotia the daughter of King Pharao and nourisher of Moses his wife who at that time when Israel were in Egypt with a Colony came into Spaine and after into Ireland where he was made King and in honour of his Queene the land named Scotia from whom also the Inhabitants tooke name his posteritie increasing in the parts of Spaine where first they had seated in proces●e of time sought further aduentures vnder the foure sonnes of Milesius King of Spaine whose names were Hibernus Hermion Euer and Erimon 12 These by the direction sufferance and assistance of Gurguntius King of the Britaines after that Ireland had beene very much dispeopled by a contagious pestilence seated themselues and from the eldest Hiberius called the I●●and Hibernia as some are of opinion these diuided the whole into fiue Pro●●nces famously knowne by the names of Mounster Leinster Connaught Vlster and M●ath in their midst and from these the present Irish repute themselues to come Yet surely as I make no question but that this Iland became inhabited euen of old time when mankinde againe ouer-spred the face of the earth so doubt I not but that our Britaines pas●ed thereinto themselues such infinite number of words in the Irish language yet in vse such ancient names of Waters Isles Mountaines and places meerely British words yet remaining and the testimony of ●acitus who saith that their manners were fashioned to the Britaines inforceth so much and Ptolemy before him calleth that Iland by the name of little Britaine all which shew a former interest for Ireland then that which by conquest vnder Henry the second was made 13 That it euer was subiect to the Romans is doubtfull though Agricola did wish it and Tacitus held most necessary yea and in the diuision of their Empire Ireland with Britaine and Thule fell vnto Constantine the sonne of Constantine the great yet their manners vnreclaimed and barbarisme retained long after those dayes doe witnesse no such 〈◊〉 sowne to be in that plot But when Romes great Empire began to grow lesse the Scots or Scythians grew mightie in Ireland and as Oros●●● writeth that Island was wholly inhabited by the Scotish Nation in the dayes of Honorius and Ar●●dius the Emperours whose warres and slaughter Claudian doth lightly touch in this his Verse Scotorum cumulos fleuit glacialis Ierne The frozen Ireland wept to see her Scots all slaine on h●apes to be 14 As these for the most part by the testimony of Ninius were the ancient Inhabitants so by other ancient Writers their customes and manners are thus set forth Strabo saith The Inhabitants of Ireland are more rude then the Britaines they feed vpon the flesh of men yea and thinke it a point of worth to eat their dead parents want only they accompany with women making no difference of other mens wiues their owne sisters nor of their naturall mothers but of these things saith he we haue no certaine witnesse of sufficient credit Po●ponius Mela recordeth that the Irish are vn●iuill ignorant of vertues and void of religion And Solinus affirmeth that after victory they drinke the bloud of the slaine and besmeare their owne faces therewith so giuen to warre that the mother at the birth of a man-childe feedeth the first meat into her
as markes to be shot at whom the hand of the skilfull soone hit and quite pierced vnder the ayme of King Henry the eight who with such Reuenewes in most places relieued the poore and the Orphane with Schooles and maintenance for the training vp of youth a worke no doubt more acceptable to God and of more charitable vse to the Land SHROP-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXV SHROP-SHIRE is both large incircuit well peopled and very fruitfull for life It lieth circulated vpon the North with the County Palatine of Chester vpon the East altogether with Stafford-shire vpon the South with Worcester Hereford and Raduor-shires and vpon the West with Mountgomery and Denbigh 2 The forme thereof is almost ciruclar or round whose length from Weo●erto● below ●odlane South to Ouer neere vnto the Riuer Trent in the North is thirtie foure miles the broadest part is from Tong in the East to Oswestre sited at the head of Morda in the West twentie and fiue miles the whole in circuit about extending to one hundred thirtie and foure miles 3 Wholesome is the Aire delectable and good yeelding the Spring and the Autmne Seede time and Haruest in a temperate condition and affoordeth health to the Inhabitants in all seasons of the yeare 4 The soile is rich and standeth most vpon a reddish Clay abounding in Wheat and Barley Pit-coales Iron and Woods which two last continue not long in league together It hath Riuers that make fruitfull the Land and in their waters containe great store of fresh-fish whereof Seuer●e is the chiefe and second in the Realme whose streame cutteth this Countie in the middest and with many windings sporteth her selfe forward leauing both pastures and meadowes be●●●●ed with flowers and greene colours which euery where she bestoweth vpon such her attendants 5 This Riuer was once the bounds of the North-Britaines and diuided their possession from the Land of the Saxons vntill of latter times theirs began to decay and the Welsh to increase who enlarged their lists to the Riuer Dee So formerly had it separated the Ordouices from the Cornauji those ancient Inhabitants mentioned by Ptolemie The Ordouices vnder Caractachus purchased great honour whilest he a Prince of the Silures remoued his warres thence among them where a while he maintained the Britaines libertie with valour and courage in despight of the Romans His Fort is yet witnesse of his vnfortunate fight seated neere Clune Castle at the confluence of that Riuer with Temd where in remembrance of him the place is yet called Caer-Caradoc a Fort of his wonne by P. Ostorius Lieutenant of the Romans about the yeare of grace 53. The Cornauji were feared vpon the North of Scuerne and branched into other Counties of whom we haue said 6 But when the strength of the Romans was too weake to support their owne Empire and Britaine emptied of her Souldiers to resist the Saxons set foot in this most faire soile and made it a part of their Mercian Kingdome their line likewise issued to the last period and the Normans beginning where these Saxons left the Welshmen tooke aduantage of all present occasions and brake ouer Seuerne vnto the Riuer d ee to recouer which the Normans first Kings often affayed and Henry the second with such danger of life that at the siege of Bridge-north he had beene slaine had not Sir H●bert Syncler receiued the arrow aimed at him in stepping betwixt that Shaft and his Soueraigne and therewith was shot thorow vnto death In the like danger stood Henry Prince of Scotland who in the strait siege of Ludlow begirt by King Stephen had beene plucked from his saddle with an iron hooke from the wall had not Stephen presently rescued him Anno 1139. 7 This then being the Marches of England and Wales was sore afflicted by bloudy broiles which caused many of their Townes to be strongly walled and thirtie two Castles to be strongly built lastly into this Countie the most wise King Henry the seauenth sent his eldest sonne Prince Arthur to be resident at Ludlow where that faire Castle became a most famous Princes Court And here King Henry the eight ordained the Counsell of the Marches consisting of a Lord President as many Counsellers as the Prince shall please a Secretary an Atturney a Soliciter and foure Iustices of the Counties in Wales in whose Court were pleaded the causes depending and tearmely tried for the most part in presence of that honourable President 8 But the Shire-Towne Shrewesburie for circuit trade and wealth doth farre exceed this and is inferiour to few of our Cities her buildings faire her streets many and large her Citizens rich her trade for the most part in the staple commodities of Cloth and Freeses her wals strong and of a large compasse extending to seauenteene hundred pases about besides another Bulwarke ranging from the Castle downe vnto and in part along the side of Seuerne thorow which there are three entrances into the Towne East West ouer by two faire stone-bridges with Towers Gates and Barres and the third into the North no lesse strong then them ouer which is mounted a large Castle whose gaping chinkes doe doubtlesse threaten her fall This Towne is gouerned by two Bailiffes yearely elected out of twentie-foure Burgesses a Recorder Towne-Clerke and Chamberlaine with three Sergeants at Mace the Pole being raised hence from the degrees of Latitude 53. 16. minutes and from West in Longitude 17. degrees 27. minutes 9 Yea and ancienter Cities haue beene set in this Shire such was Roxalter or Wroxcester lower vpon Seuerne that had beene Vricomum the chiefest Citie of the Cornauij Vsoconia now Okenyate neere vnto the Wrekin and vnder Red-Castle the ruines of a Citie whom the vulgar report to haue beene famous in Arthurs dayes but the peeces of Romish Coines in these three doe well assure vs that therein their Legions lodged as many other Trenches are signes of warre and of bloud But as swords haue beene stirring in most parts of this Prouince so Beads haue beene bid for the preseruation of the whole and places erected for the maintenance of Votaries in whom at that time was imputed great holinesse in Shrewesbury many at Cou●●ere Stowe Dudley Bromefeld Wigmore Hamond Lyleshill Bildas Bishops-castle and Wenloke where in the Raigne of Richard the second was likewise a rich Mine of Copper But the same blasts that blew downe the buds of such plants scattered also the fruits from these faire trees which neuer since bare the like nor is likely any more to doe That onely which is rare in this Prouince is a Well at Pichford in a priuate mans yard whereupon floteth a thicke skum of liquid Bitumen which being cleare off to day will gather the like againe on the morrw not much vnlike to the Lake in the Land of Iewry The Countie Palatine of CHESTER CHAPTER XXXVI CHESSE-SHIRE the Countie Palatine of Chester is parted vpon the North from Lanca-shire with the Riuer Mercy vpon the East by Mercey Goit and the
certaine vault or little Chappell vnder the ground wherein he was supposed to haue beene buried might beget much wonder and admiration but that L. Zius confirmeth that in ancient times they had a custome to preserue light in Sepulchres by an artificiall resoluing of gold into a liquid and farry substance which should continue bruning a long time and for many ages together THE BISHOPRICKE OF DURHAM CHAPTER XXXIX THe Bishopricke of Durham containeth those parts and Towne-ships that 〈…〉 the Reuer Tees and Derwent and all along the German-Sea 〈…〉 on the North wit● Northumberland and their Iurisdictions parted by the 〈…〉 touched by Cumberland Westmorland and from 〈…〉 Riuer Tees and by the same water on her South from Yorke-shire 〈…〉 By the German-Sea 2 The forme thereof is triangle 〈…〉 for from her South 〈◊〉 vnto the West-point are about thirtie miles from thence to the North-east and 〈…〉 are likewise as many and her base along the Sea-shore are twentie 〈…〉 Circumference about one hundred and three miles 3 The ayre is sharpe and very piercing and would be more 〈◊〉 not that the 〈◊〉 from the German-Seas did helpe much to dissolue 〈◊〉 and snow and the store of coales therein growing and gotten doe warme the body and keepe backe the cold which 〈…〉 besides their owne vse doth yeeld great commodities vnto this Prouince by trade thereof 〈◊〉 other parts 4 For Soile it consisteth much alike of Pastures 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 grounds the East is the richest and most champion the South more moorish but 〈…〉 without either grasse or graine notwithstanding 〈…〉 with as great gaine both in rearing vp Cattle and 〈…〉 groweth so neere to the vpper 〈…〉 wheeles doe turne vp the same Some hold their substance to be a clammie kinde of clay hardned with heat abounding in the earth and so becomming concocted is nothing else but Bitumen for proofe whereof these Coales haue both the like smell and operation of Bitumen for being sprinkled with water they burne more vehemently but with oyle are quite extinguished and put out 5 The ancient Inhabitants knowne vnto Ptolemie were the Brigantes of whom we haue spoken in the Generall of Yorkeshire they being subdued by the romans after whom the Saxons made it a part of their Northumberlands Kingdom at first a Prouince belonging to the Deirians and enioyed by Ella their first King afterwards inuaded by the Danes and lastly possessed by the Normans whose site being so neere vnto Scotland hath many times felt their fury and hath beene as a Buckler betwixt them and the English for which cause the Inhabitants haue certaine freedomes and are not charged with seruice as other Counties are so that this with Westmorland Cumberland and Northumberland are not diuided into hundreds in those Parliament Rolles whence I had the rest which want I must leaue for others to supply 6 Ouer this Countie the Bishops thereof haue had the Royalties of Princes and the Inhabitants haue pleaded priuiledge not to passe in seruice of warre ouer the Riuer of Tees or Tyne whose charge as they haue alledged was to keepe and defend the corps of S Cuthbert their great adored Saint and therefore they termed themselues The holy-werk-folkes And the repute of this Cuthbert and his supposed defence against the Scots was such that our English Kings in great deuotion haue gone in pilgrimage to visit his Tombe and haue giuen many large possessions to his Church such were King Egfred Aelfred and Guthrun the Dane Edward and Athelstan Monarch of England and zealous Cannte the greatest of all who came thither bare-footed and at Cuthberts Tombe both augmented and confirmed their Liberties This Saint then of nothing made Durham become great and William the Conquerour of a Bishopricke made it a County Palatine at that time William Careleph Bishop of the Diocesse pulled downe the old Church which Aldwin had built and with sumptuous cost laid the foundations of a new wherein S. Cuthberts Shrine in the vacancy of the Bishops was the Keeper of the Castle-keyes In the West of this Church and place called Gallile the Marble Tombe of venerable Beda remaineth who was borne at Iaerro in this Countie and became a Monke at Weremouth whose painefull indust●es and light of learning in those times of darknesse are wonderfull as the volumes which he wrote doe well declare And had the idle Monkes of England imployed their times after his example their Founders expectations had not beene frustrate nor those foundations so easily ouerturned But the reuenge of sinne euer following the actions of sinnes dissolued first the largenesse of this Counties liberties vnder the raigne of King Edward the First and since hath shaken to peices those places herein erected vnder the raigne of King Henry the eight such were Durham Sherborne Stayndr●p Iarro ●eremouth and Egleton all which felt the reward of their idlenesse and wrath of him that is jealous of his owne honour 7 Things of rare note obserued in this Shire are three pits of a wonderfull depth commonly called the Hell-Kettles which are adioyning neere vnto Darlington whose waters are some what warme These are thought to come of an Earth-quake which happened in the yeare of Grace 1179. whereof the Chrenicle of Tin-mouth maketh mention whose record is this On Christmas day at Oxe●hall in the Territorie of Darlington within the Bishopricke of Durham the ground heaued vp aloft like vnto an high Tower 〈…〉 all that day as it were vnmoueable vntill the euening 〈◊〉 then fell with so horrible a noise that it made all the neighbour dwellers sore afraid and the earth swallowed it vp and made in the same place a deepe pit which is there to be seene for a testimonie vnto this day 8 Of no lesse admiration are certaine stones lying within the Riuer Weere at Butterbre neere Durham from whose sides at the Ebbe and low water in the Summer issueth a certaine salt reddish water which with the Sunne waxeth white and growing into a thicke substance becommeth a necessary sal● to the vse of the by-dwellers 9 And places of elder times had in a●rount by the Romans were Benonium now Binchester and C●ndereum Chester in the street where their monies haue beene digged vp and at Codercu●● so much that Egelrik Bishop of Durham was therewith made exceeding rich VVESTMORLAND CHAPTER XL. VVESTMORLAND by some late Latine Writers is c●lled Westmaria and Westmorlandia by some later Westmoria and in our English Tongue Westmorland It came to be thus named in our language by the situation which in euery part is so plenteously full of Moores and high hils teaching one to another that Westmorland with vs is nothing else but a Westerne moorish Country Hauing on the West and North-side Cumberland on the South-part Lanca-shire on the East-side Yorkeshire and the Bishopricke of Durham 2 The length thereof extended from Burton in her South to Kirkland in her North-part is 30. miles the broadest part from East to West is from the Riuer Eden to Dunbal
which are seene to racke much lower then the top of that Hill As strange tales are told of the Meer Llynsauathan two miles by East from Breknock which at the breaking of her frozen I●e maketh a fearefull sound like vnto thunder In which place as is reported sometimes stood afaire Citie which was swallowed vp in an Earthquake and resigned her stone-wals vnto this deepe and 〈◊〉 water whither vnto this day leadeth all the wayes in this Shire which as le●●●ed Cambdin●●●ctureth ●●ctureth might be that Louentrium which Ptolemy in this tract placeth and the most confirmed 〈…〉 name adioyning being also called Leuenny which Riuer also passeth through this 〈…〉 the same streame and no greater then wherewith she first entred in 5 The Townes for Commerce are Hay Bealt and Breknock two of them vnfortunate of their former greatnesse whom warres and sedition haue defaced a● least downe Hay vpon Wye and Dulas pleasant for situation in the rebellion of Owen Glendower● 〈◊〉 was diswalled depopulated and burnt in whose foundations for new repaires many Romane Coines haue beene found and thereby thought to be the seate of their Legions and Buelth now Bealt though of good frequencie yet not so great as when Ptolemie obserued her position for graduation who calleth it Buleum Silurum neither when it with the Country was possessed by Aurelius Ambrosius by whose permission Pascentius the sonne of Vortiger ruled all as Ninius writeth nor yet as of later times when Leolin the last Prince of the Britaines was therein betrayed and slaine 6 Breknock the Shire-Towne for buildings and beautie retaineth a better regard whose walles in Ouall-wise are both strong and of good repaire hauing three Gates for entrance with tenne Towres for defence and is in circuit six hundred and fortiepaces about vpon whose west part a most sumptuous and stately Castle is seated the like whereof is not commonly seene whose decayes approaching doe increase her ruines daily and in the end is feared will be her fall This Towne is seated vpon the meeting of two Riuers Houthy and Vske whose yearely gouernment is committed to two Bailiffes fifteene Aldermen two Chamberlaines two Constables a Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants their Attendants hauing the Poles eleuation in 52 21. minutes of Latitude and for Longitude is placed in the 16. and 32. minutes as the Mathematicians doe measure them 7 This Shire is strengthned with ●ine Castles diuided into sixe Hundreds wherein are seated three Market-Townes and fiftie 〈◊〉 Parish-Churches CARDIGAN-SHIRE CHAPTER V. CARDIGAN-SHIRE in the Welsh called Sire Aber-Tiui is parted on the North from Merioneth-shire with the Riuer Doui by the Plinillimon hilles from Montgomery-shire in part of her East and the rest from Breknock-shire with the water Towy and with Tyuy altogether on the South from Caermarden-shire the West is wholly washed with the Irish Sea 2 The forme thereof is horne-like bowing compasse long and narrow and growing wider still towards the North so that from Cardigan the Shire-Towne and vttermost point in the South vnto the Riuer Doui her farthest North bounder are thirtie two miles and from the head of Carwen in the East to Aberysthwyth on her West the broadest part in the Shire are onely fifteene the whole in circumference is one hundred and three miles 3 The Aire is open and somewhat piercing the soyle is hillie and Wales-like vneuen yet more plaine and champion towards the Sea then in the East or North of the Land For besides that great and high hill called Plinil●●on a continuall range of lesser doth shoote along yeelding in their vallies both goodly rich Pastures and very large Pooles which being assisted with Springs from the Rockes doe branch themselues as veines in the bod● 〈◊〉 make fruitfull their passages vnto the Sea In Tyuy one of these as Giraldus 〈…〉 Beauer hath beene found a creature liuing both by land and water whose stones the 〈…〉 in great price His fore-feete are like vnto a dogge but the hinder whole skinne as is the 〈…〉 the dogge-like serue him on shore for to run and the Goose-like as Oraes giue him swift 〈◊〉 in swimming this taile broad and gristly he vseth as a sterne wherewith on the sudden 〈◊〉 diuert his swift floating course But this creature in these parts a long time hath not beene seene whose roome we may well say the Salmon hath possessed who still coueting into fresh water Riuers at their downe-right falles vseth this policie He bendeth himselfe backward and taketh his taile in his mouth and with all his strength vnloosing his circle on the sudden as a lath let goe mounteth vp before the fall of the streame whereupon such water-falles are called the Salmons leape and in these Riuers many such Salmons are caught 4 The commodities of this Shire chiefly consist in Cattle Sea-sowle and Fish Corne sufficient but of Woods some scarcitie and at the head of Istwyd are certaine veines of Lead a merchandize of no meane regard or wealth 5 The ancient people that possessed this Prouince were the Dimetae by Ptolemie branched thorow the Tracts of Caermarden Penbrooke and this Shire who in their struglings against the Romans did not a little relie vpon Caractacus their most warlike King from whose name though vnlikely some will haue the Shire called Cardigan yet lastly felt the fortune of subiection with the rest when Iulius Frontinus warred with these Mountaines Scarce had the Normans setled their Kingdome in Britaine but that they assailed this Countie as well to enioy so farre a Possession as to secure those Seas from any inuasion against them so that Rufus first wrested from the Welshmen the maritime Coasts and Henry the first gaue the whole Countie to Gilbert de 〈◊〉 6 This Gi●bert fortified 〈◊〉 the Shire-Towne with a Wall and strong Castle whose aged lineaments doe to this day 〈…〉 industry both of nature and Art for the Towne is seated vpon a steepe banke her South 〈◊〉 guarded with the deepe Riuer Tyny and passable no way but by a bridge vnder the Castle They 〈◊〉 taketh the aduantage of the rising rocks and circulate the Towne euen round about The Castle is ●●●gher built vpon a Rocke both spatious and faire had not stormes impaired her beautie and time 〈◊〉 her carkasse a very Anatomie The walles range as thou seest and are indifferent for repaire hauing three wayes for entrance and containe in compasse six hundred and fourescore pases whose position for Latitude is set in the degree 52. 33 minutes from the North-pole and for Longitude from the first West-point by Mercator in the degree 15. and 10. minutes 7 This Shire as it is little in circuit so accordingly is besprinkled with Towne-ships whereof foure onely haue the trade of Markets neither finde I other remembrance of religious foundations but at Cardigan Istradfleet and at Llan-Badern-Vaur where sometimes was seated an Episcopall See which as Houeden writeth was decayed many yeares since when the people had wickedly slaine their Pastour And yet Llan-Deui-breui built
the longest against the Romanes and their necks not brought vnder the yoke of bondage before the dayes of King Edward the first since when they haue attempted to east off their subiection to the English vpon whose stirres raised by Owin Glendouer who hauing beene a fauorite of King Richard the second and discontented by King Henry the fourth in a quarrell with the Lord Grey of Ruthin that intruded vpon his demaines quarrelled with the King and entred into open rebellion and confederacie with all other his rebels drawing the Welsh-men wholly to his side in hope to haue had Princes restored of their owne bloud and he maintained the same with wonderfull pride policie and obstinacie for a long time vntill his consederates followers and fauorates and his owne courage credit and maintenance were brought so low by that powerfull King that in the end he perished for very want of food 5 Their Townes are not many neither those that they haue of any stately buildings whereof Bala ●olgethe and Harlech are the Marke●● 〈…〉 in the North-east of this Countie in the Welsh 〈◊〉 in English Pi●●●le-meane a great poole of water doth drowne at least eight score Acres of ground whose 〈…〉 the high land flouds though neuer so great cannot 〈…〉 bigger by their 〈…〉 but if the 〈◊〉 be●●oubled with ouer great blasts and tempests of wi●des she in as great a rage riseth and passeth her bankes as if she would encounter that enemy in fight Into the South whereof the two headed Dee with a pretie sharpe streame entreth and thorow the same glideth without any mixture of the same water as the Inhabitants beleeue more strongly conceited in their opinion for that the Salmon vsually taken in Dee is neuer found in that Poole and the fish called Guimad bred in that Meart neuer is seene in the Riuer Dee South thence neere Dolgelhr in a lower hill a great Rampire of stone and compasse is seene and hath beene some fortification or defence in warre which whilst we were curious to finde out some instructions thereof by report this onely we learned that it was called Caddoryrita Dren according to the name of her neighbour and farre higher hill 6 Vpon the West and Sea-shore of this Shire Harlech a Market and Major Towne standeth bleake enough and barren but onely for Fowle and Fish houses not many neither curiously built wherein standeth a little Chappell decayed and without vse in which lyeth buryed Sir Richard Thimblebye an English Knight who for the delight he tooke in that game remoued his abode from a farre better soyle Here also standeth a most strong and beautifull Castle mounted vpon a hill and with a double Bulwarke walled about commanding the Sea and passage of entrance of such as seeke to inuade the Goast And surely a great pitie it is to see so faire a worke fall to decay the Constable whereof by Patent is euer the Major of this Towne neere vnto which are two great Inlets of Seas which at low water may be passed vpon the Sands with Guides Vpon whose shore as vpon the Sea-coasts in this Countie abundance of Herrings are caught for which cause they are much frequented in the season of the yeare by many people from diuers Countries DENBIGH-SHIRE CHAPTER XI DENBIGH-SHIRE called in Welsh Sire Denbigh retyring more from the Sea within the Countrey on this side of the Riuer Conwey shooteth Eastward in one place as farre as to the Riuer Dee on the North first the Sea for a small space and then Plint-shire encompasseth it on the West Caernaruon and Merioneth-shire on the East Cheshire and Shrop-shire and on the South Mountgomery-shire 2 The forme thereof is long growing wider still towards the North-west and narrower towards the East It is in length from East to West one and thirtie miles and in bredth from North to South seauenteene miles in the whole circuit and circumference one hundred and fourteene miles 3 The ayre is very wholesome and pleasant yet bleake enough as exposed to the windes on all sides and the high hilles wherewith it is in many places enuitoned long retaining the congealed snow The tops whereof in the Summer time are the haruest-mens Almanacks by the rising of certaine vapours thereon in the mornings and foreshew a faire day ensuing 4 The soyle is but barren towards the West part yet the middle where it lieth flat in a valley is most fertile The East side when it is once past the valley findeth Nature to be a very sparing niggard of her sauours but next vnto Dee it feeleth a more liberall extent of her blessings The West part is but here and there inhabited and mounteth vp more then the other with bare and hungry hilles yet the leanesse of the soyle where the hils settle any thing flatting hath beene now a good while begun to be ouercome by the diligent paines and carefull industry of the husbandmen for they paring away the vpper coat of the earth into certaine Turffes with a broad kinde of spade pile them vp artificially on heapes and fire them so as being turned into ashes and throwne vpon the ground so pared they fructifie the hungry barrennesse and sterilitie of soyle and make the fields bring forth a kinde of Rie or Anull-corne in such plentie as is hardly to be beleeued 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Countrey were the Ordouices who being also named Orde●ices or Ordo●icae a puissant and couragious people by reason they kept wholly in a mountainous place and tooke heart euen of the soyle it selfe for they continued longest free from the yoke both of Roman and also of English dominion They were not subdued by the Romans before the dayes of the Emperor Domitian for then Iulius Agricola conquered almost the whole Nation nor brought vnder the command of the English before the raigne of King Edward the first but liued a long time in a lawlesse kinde of libertie as bearing themselues bold vpon their owne magnanimitie and the strength of the Country 6 The Mountaines of this County yeeld sufficiency of Neat Sheepe and Goats The Vallies in most places are very plenteous of Corne especially Eastward on this side betwixt the Riuers of Alen and Dee but the more Westerly part is heathy and altogether barren The heart of the Shire shewes it selfe beneath the hilles in a beautifull and pleasant Vale reaching seauenteene miles in length from South to North and fiue miles or thereabouts in bredth and lieth open onely toward the Sea It is enuironed on euery side with high hilles amongst which the highest is Mo●llenlly on the top whereof is a warlike Fense with Trench and Rampier and a little fountaine of cleare water From these hilles the Riuer Cluyd resorts vnto this Vale and from the very spring-head increased with beckes and brookes doth part it in twaine running thorow the midst of it whereof in ancient time it was named Strat Cluyd for Mariam●s maketh mention of a King of the Strat Cluyd of
infants mouth vpon the point of her husbands sword and with he at●enish imprecations wisheth that it may die no otherwise then in warre or by sword 15 But from these ancient and barbarous manners let vs come to the conditions of their middle time whom Giraldus Cambrensis describeth as followeth The Irish saith he are a strong and bold people martiall and prodigall in warre nimble stout and haughtie of heart carelesse of life but greedie of glory courteous to strangers constant in loue light of beliefe impatient of iniurie giuen to fleshly lusts and in enmitie implacable At the baptizing of their Infants their manner was not to dip their right armes into the water that so as they thought they might giue a more deepe and incurable blow neuer calling them by the names of their Parents whilest they liued together but at their death tooke it vpon them Their women nursed not the children they bare and they that nursed others did affect and loue them much more then their owne 16 So much were they giuen to fantasticall conceits that they held it very ominous to giue their neighbours fire vpon May-day to eat an old egge endangered the death of their horse and before they cast in their seed they send salt into the field to hang vp the shelles in the roofe was a preseruatiue of the chickens from the kite to set vp greene boughes at their doores in the Moneth of May increased their kines milke and to spit vpon Cattle they held it good against Witchery whereof Ireland was full 17 Superstitious Idolatry among the wilde Irish was common yeelding diuine honour vnto the Moone after the change vnto whom they both bowed their knees and made supplications and with a loud voice would thus speake vnto that Planet Wee pray thee leaue vs in as good estate as thou foundst vs. Wolues they did make their Godsibs terming them Chari Christ and so thought themselues preserued from their hurts the hoofes of dead horses they accounted and held sacred about childrens necks they hung the beginning of Saint Iohns Gospell a crooked naile of an horse-shooe or a peece of a Wolues skinne and both the sucking-childe and nurse were girt with girdles finely plated of womans haire so farre they wandred into the wayes of errour in making these armes the strength of their healths 18 Their wiues were many by reason of diuorcements and their maids married at twelue yeares of age whose customes were to send to their louers bracelets plated and curiously wrought of their owne haire so farre following Venus in the knots of these a●●urements The men wore linnen shirts exceedingly large stained with Saffron the sleeues wide and hanging to their knees strait and short trustes plated thicke in the skirts their breeches close to the thighes a short skeine hanging point downe before and a mantle most times cast ouer their heads The women wore their haire plated in curious manner hanging downe their backes and shoulders from vnder soulden wreathes of fine linnen rolled about their heads rather loading the wearer then delighting the beholder for as the one was most seemely so the other was vnsightly their neckes were hung with chaines and carkaneths their armes wreathed with many bracelets and ouer their side-garments the shagge rugge mantles purfled with a deepe Fringe of diuers colours both sexes accounting idlenes●e their onely libertie and ease their greatest riches 19 In warres they were forward and fought with battle-axes whose bearers were called Galloglasses the common Souldier but lightly armed who serued with darts and sharpe skeines their Trumpet was a Bagge-pipe and word for encounter Pharroh which at the first onset with great acclamation they vttered and he that did not was taken into the ayre and carried into the vale of Kerr● where transformed as they did beleeue he remained vntill he was hunted with Hounds from thence to his home 20 For the dying and dead they hired women to mourne who expostulated with the sicke why he would die and dead at his Funerall such out-cries were made such clapping of hands such howlings and gestures that one would thinke their sorrowes vnrecouerable holding the opinion of Pythagoras for the soules departed 21 Their dyet in necessitie was slender feeding vpon water-cresses rootes mushromes shamrogh butter tempered with oat-meale milke whey yea and raw flesh the bloud being crushed out their vse was also to let their kine bloud which standing a while and comming to a ielly with butter they did eat as a very good dish 22 That the Gospell of Christ should be preached in Ireland by Iames the Apostle I will not affirme though Vincentius hath said it neither will I with the Scots bring the Ilands conuersion from a Christian woman who as their Historians doe auouch first instructed the Queene and the Queene her husband and he againe his Subiects till all became Christians But most true it is that the Scots first receiued the doctrine of Christ in this Kingdome of Ireland for thus writeth Prosper Coelestin Pope of Rome sent his Archdeacon Palladius into Britaine to withstand the Pelagian heresie who at one time did driue out these enemies of grace and ordained a Bishop among the Scots whereby that barbarous Nation embraced Christianitie Yet Ninius reporteth that Palladius did nothing in neither being taken away by vntimely death but that S. Patricke borne at E●burne in Cluedsdale the sonne of Calphurus by the sister of S. Martin was the first Apostle for Ireland who sowed his heauenly seede with such plentifull increase that the soile it selfe shortly was called Sanctorum Patria the Country of Saints for whose Sepulchre after his death rose as great variance as was for Homer amongst them of Greece they of Downe challenged his graue to be with them vpon certaine Verses written on a Tombe which ascribes Patricke Briget and Columbe to be buried therein they of Armagh lay claime by the warrant of S. Bernard who saith that Patricke in his life time there ruled and after death there rested Glascenbury in England by ancient records will haue his bodie interred with them and Scotland auoucheth his birth to be at Glasco and bones to rest at Kirk-Patricke with them of such reuerent esteeme was this Irish Apostle THE PROVINCE OF MOVNSTER CHAPTER II. THis Prouince called in Irish Mown in a more ordinary construction of speech Wown in Latine Momonia and in English Mounster lieth open South ward to the Verginian Sea North-ward it affronteth part of Connaught The East is neighboured by L●i●ster and the West is altogether washed with the West Ocean 2 The length thereof extended from Ballatimore-Bay in her South vnto the Bay of Galway in her North are about nintie miles Her broadest part from East to West is from Waterford-Hauen to Feriter Hauen and containeth an hundred miles The whole circumference by following the prometaries and indents are aboue fiue hundred and fortie miles 3 The forme thereof is quadrant or foure-square The 〈◊〉 milde and temperate neither