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A64495 The travels of Monsieur de Thevenot into the Levant in three parts, viz. into I. Turkey, II. Persia, III. the East-Indies / newly done out of French.; Relation d'un voyage fait au Levant. English Thévenot, Jean de, 1633-1667.; Lovell, Archibald. 1687 (1687) Wing T887; ESTC R17556 965,668 658

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hair come for it falls off every year Having then passed by a great many sorry Ruines of houses and crossed a little Brook about half an hour after nine we were got by a large round Pond full of yellowish Rain-water where the Curds were watering a great number of Cattel of which the chief and most common are black Goats of whose hair they make their Tents The Village of Teldgizre Mount Taurus Half an hour after ten we passed by a great Village called Teldgizre which was to our left and then we were got so near Mount Taurus that was also to our left that it was not above an hours march to the foot of it following the current of a little Brook which was on the same side half an hour after eleven we came and encamped near a great Village called Kizilken by which that rivulet runs I observed on the way that day that they were but then cutting down their Corn whereas at Aleppo they begin to cut about the end of May or beginning of June After we were encamped we felt notwithstanding our Pavillions so hot a Wind A hot Wind. that it seemed to have mustered together and brought with it all the heat of the Air and I think that a man standing near a great flame which the Wind blew upon his face could not feel a hotter Air. Kizilken is a great Village all inhabited by Syrians we found some Carpous Kizilken or water-Mellons there which were ripe and good and these did us a great deal of kindness In the night-time there came Robbers several times but they that watched making as if they would fire upon them they made some silly excuses and marched away From Kizilken we parted next day being Friday the eighteenth of July half an hour after one of the Clock in the Morning and continued our way East-South East about four a Clock we saw on our right hand two very solid well built houses but abandoned as well as the old Ruines that were to our left Half an hour after seven we arrived at a great Village called Kodgiasar where the Customer came to take his dues Kodgiasar but not knowing that I was a Franck asked me nothing In former times it was a very great Town and some very high and substantial Buildings still remain and amongst others a spacious Church rarely well built First you enter into a large Court along which stands the Church that hath seven doors all stopt up except the middlemost which hath a great Nich on each side over these doors there has been Mosaick work the place whereof is still to be observed and at the four Corners of the Court there has been four very high square Steeples covered with little Domes of which at present there are onely three remaining and of these too but one entire The other two want onely the Dome they are built of pretty little Free-stones with Ornaments of Architecture and so is the Church also the middle wherof is covered with a Dome rough cast over and the Walls supported by good large stone-Butteresses The Turks having converted it into a Mosque have made a Keble in it and a little Pulpit to preach in Near to this Town runs a Water that passes under a Bridge of five Arches to say the truth it is not very good but there are good Wells and each house has one There is one in the middle of the Court of that Church and hard by it a kind of Dome supported by several Pillars but for what use I know not unless it be to wash in as the Turks do when they go to their Mosque Kodgiasar is over against Merdin that stands upon a hill to the North-East of it the Castle is on the very top of the hill and is seen at a great distance Merdin being four hours Journey from Kodgiasar The Customer of Merdin came to our Camp for his dues and demanded of me as a Franck five Piastres and therefore made my man Prisoner but my Moucre brought him out he was informed that I was a Franck by a Turk of the Caravan who was the onely man of them all that shewed any aversion to me The Castle of Merdin is so strong that the Turks say no Army is able to take it seeing they have both Spring-water and Cistern-water They will have it that Tamarlan lay seven years before this Castle who to shew them that he would continue there untill it were taken caused the Trees below it to be cut down and new ones planted of the fruit of which when they began to bear he sent to the Garrison and that the besieged to make the best shew they could sent him Cheese made of Bitches milk as if it had been of the Milk of Ewes which wrought a good effect for he was perswaded by that that they had not as yet spent their sheep and despairing to force them he raised the Siege though he had prevailed in all the other Sieges that he attempted There is a Basha at Merdin and almost all the Inhabitants of Kodgiasar are Robbers We stayed there all Saturday because the Customer had not as yet agreed with our People what he was to have of every load having asked too much at Kodgiasar there still remain many fair Steeples and other antiquities standing in several places The same Saturday the nineteenth of July there arrived a little Caravan near to our Camp which came from Aleppo and was going to Van. On Sunday the twentieth of July we parted from Kodgiasar about three a clock in the morning half an hour after five we past by a great Village called Toubijasa Toubijasa which was on our left hand and is onely inhabited by Syrians So soon as we passed it we came into a great plain sowed with Cucumbers and Melons A Field of Melons and Cucumbers of which those of our Caravan took as many as they could eat and carry with them notwithstanding the Cries of the poor People Men Women and Children who had no better payment than ill words as if they had been much in the wrong for complaining that their Goods were forcibly taken from them About nine a Clock we passed a little Water and after that found the Tents of some Curds three quarters after nine we encamped near a Village called Futlidge Futlidge near to which there is a Well of good Water in Winter they encamp at a Village near the Mountains Caradere called Caradere a little on this side because there are Grotto's in them to lodge in We parted about two of the Clock in the Morning directing our way East-South-East such hot Vapours steemed out of the Earth that for breath and that I might not be stiffled I was forced to fan my self which made me think of the Sausiel which I had already heard so much of Half an hour after five we saw on the side of the way to the left the Ruines of a great Castle
know that the Cornish of this Pillar is of the Corinthian order The same day also I saw something very remarkable which I had not sufficiently considered in my former Travels Being abroad with some others by the gate Del Pepe which looks betwixt South and West about a thousand paces from that gate as we went betwixt South and West streight towards the Palus Mareotis leaving the Pillar of Pompey to the left Burying places of the ancient Egyptians we saw Grotto's cut in the Rock we entered into one of them stooping and leaning upon our hands with lighted Wax-candles being within we found that the Roof was above ten foot high cut very smooth and on all sides we saw Sepulchres made in the Wall which is the Rock it self and of these there are four Stories one over another and from one range to another and from Story to Story there is but half a foots distance so that the intervals seem to be so many Pillars which support those that are over them their depth reaches to the bottom of the Sepulchres and so they serve for Walls to separate the one from the other In these Sepulchres we saw many dead mens Bones which we handled and found them to be as fresh and hard as if the men had died but the day before There were some lying upon the ground at the Entry into the Grotto which had been thrown out there I handled and broke some of them and found that they were rotten in the air but they crumbled not into ashes onely broke longways like rotten Elder nay they were also moist and had a kind of marrow within Coming out of that Grotto we entered into another opposite unto it where we saw Sepulchres as in the other at the bottom we found a way that led very far in but because we must have gone double in the manner as we entered the first Gotto and marched in that posture at least as far as we could see by the light of our Wax-candles we thought best not to enter in and be contented with the Relation we had that it reached above two French Leagues in length This was all that we could learn from the Turks who were with us and who told us besides that the Ancient Inhabitants of Alexandria had dugg those places to lay their dead in there is a great deal of probability of the truth of that and that it has been some burying-place I then considered the Palus Mareotis it reaches in breadth out of sight Palus Mareotis Khalis and is but some hundred of paces distant from the Khalis which hath its course betwixt the same Palus Mareotis and the Pillar of Pompey but they have no communication together Another day I went up to the Hill where the Tower is wherein there is commonly a Watchman to put out the Flag so soon as any Vessel appears A Watch-Tower from thence I easily discovered all the City and the Sea with the Palus Mareotis and all the Countrey about Being come down I went on Foot round the Ancient Walls of Alexandria beginning at the Water-gate The circuit of Alexandria that looks to the North and for some time going streight North till the Wall turns off in a right Angle towards the East and after fifty paces length turns again towards the North making there an obtuse Angle it continues so towards the North till you come over against the Palace of Cleopatra The Palace of Cleopatra which stood upon the Walls opposite to the mouth of the Harbour having a Gallery running outwards supported by many fair Pillars of which some remains are still to be seen on the Sea-side That Gallery they say and not without probability reached even into the Palace so that one might embark there In a Tower hard by are to be seen three Pillars standing which support a little Dome that in former times stood upon four but there is one wanting I cannot conceive for what use that little Dome was being in a place where there is no light perhaps it stood over some Cistern which at present is stopt up Ten or twelve steps from that Tower there is a Cistern where there are two Stories of Pillars and in many other places there are Cisterns supported in the same manner Cisterns upon Pillars Obelisks so that it would seem that most part of the Town hath stood upon Pillars A few steps from thence there are to be seen two Obelisks of Thebaick Stones one of which lies buried in the Earth nothing of it but the foot appearing the other is standing but the Earth must needs be raised very high in that place for in all probability that Obelisk is upon its pedestal of which nothing is to be seen nay not the foot of the Obelisk it self Opposite to this place the Wall turns again towards the East and with the other plane makes almost a returning right Angle and after a considerable space doubles inwards making a square but an hundred paces farther it runs out again a pretty way towards the North-East and stretches Northwards then making a sharp Angle it points betwixt East and South-Eastward as far as the Gate of Rossette after which it maketh an obtuse Angle and reaches along betwixt the West and South-West Along that side runs the Khalis and a little farther is the Palus Mareotis parallel unto it which is so broad that one can hardly see Land on the other side of it When we come over against the Pillar of Pompey which stands to the South of the Town on this side the Khalis we find the Gate del Pepe or Sitre which looks to the South-West and West and then the Wall which is doubled inwards in this place to make the Gate continues on towards the South-West and West as far as a New Castle which seems to be very strong and near to which a little from the Gate del Pepe the Khalis enters under the Wall into the conduits of the City from which all have Water into their Cisterns by means of Pousseragues Aqueducts Afterwards the Wall turns streight North and passes along the old Harbour opposite to which on the right hand are to be seen the Aqueducts which heretofore conveyed the Water of the Khalis from the Castle of the old Harbour to Bouquer Then the Wall runs streight betwixt North-East and North to the Water-Gate We were two hours in going the compass of Alexandria which reaches in length from East to West but is very narrow CHAP. III. Of what happened in the way from Alexandria to Sayde and from Sayde to Damascus Departure from Alexandria I Parted from Alexandria on Thursday the twenty eighth of February about nine of the clock in the morning in a Germe or open Boat but seeing the Wind was easie and that we were becalmed in the afternoon we put in again to the Harbour of Bouquer which we had passed On Board of that Germe there was a Corsar of Barbary