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A35762 A discription of Tangier, the country and people adjoyning with an account of the person and government of Gayland, the present usurper of the kingdome of Fez, and a short narrative of the proceedings of the English in those parts : whereunto is added, the copy of a letter from the King of Fez to the King of England, for assistance against his rebellious subjects, and another from Grayland to His Sacred Majesty Charles the Second : with divers letters and passages worthy of note / translated from the Spanish into English, and published by authority. Charles I, King of England, 1600-1649.; Charles II, King of England, 1630-1685.; Ghaylān, Aḥmad al-Khāḍir ibn ʻAlī, d. 1673.; Teviot, Andrew Rutherford, Earl of, d. 1664. 1664 (1664) Wing D1151; ESTC R12756 46,144 89

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their Complexion which is Tawny and inclining to black or their Condition as who are bafe in their Original and not very honourable in their present state Morocco hath on the East of it Maloa on the VVest from Tremison the Atlantick Ocean on the South Atlas and on the North Fez. It hath its chief denomination from the chief City of it Morocco it hath large Cities well inhabited as well fortified whereof one contained Anno 1659 when there went out an Enrolment from the Xeriff or chief Governour to Tax every Family by the Poll 150000 Families 486 Mosches or Churches on the Tower of the chiefest whereof or the Mother-Church as they call it there was a Globe that weighed 800 pound in Gold and was valued at 1300000 Duckats The Country is like Ireland rich and fertile and wants onely skilful and laborious inhabitants that may improve it to that rich advantage it is capable of that Country coming up as all Travellers aver to our Saviours proportion of increase some times and places thirty fold some fifty some sixty and some and hundred The Air is much after the temper of England but that there is a South-wind that ever and anon blows and brings along with it an extraordinary and a very hurtful heat like that at Scanderoon did not an Eastern blast bring with it four times a year viz. about the middle of July the latter end of August the beginning of March and most part of May as extraordinary cold that balanceth the former excess to a temper exceeding pleasant and healthful insomuch as it was observed by Mr. Tevillian that traveiled Morocco anno 1633. when King Charles the first of glorious memory upon the humble Request of the King of Fez sent 15 ships to assist him in the Conquest of the Pyrates of Sala who were too hard for him and to his great grief poor man infested all Europe and Asia that were concerned in the Eastern Trade that never any English VVelch or Scotch that were cast upon those coasts died before they were an hundred years old nor any French or Irish that lived there a twelve-month for some years together until Art helped Nature and they understanding the temperature of the Climate and their own constitution were taught those Rules and Prescriptions that corrected the first and assisted the second Of the eleven Mountains of Barbary four are fallen to the share of this part of it 1. Thanebes 2. Gous 3. Phocra 4. Usaletto from which spring up those pleasant and wholesome streams that run like so many Veins of Blood turning and winding through this uneven Ground dispensing their Refreshments and Verdure on all sides with equal kindness to Men to Beasts to the Grass and Corn. But Morocco and Fez are as it were all one as well in the state and condition of the Countrey as in the Government Come we then at last to Fez wherein lieth Tangier the place we have in our Eye Fez hath on the South of it Morocco which is no other then the other half of it on the North the Mediterranean on the East Malon and Tremeson on the West the Atlantick It is thought by that excellent Surveyor Maurus to be as big as Toledo that is almost twice as big as England and something over The Ground is very uneven and unequal no Hills higher then its Mountains no Wilderness wider and looser then its Deserts no Parks more woody than its Forrests no Valleys more Pleasant and Profitable than its Champaigns which what they want in length and breadth they gain in depth as if Nature had heaped one Acre upon two in the matchless fertility thereof Our Age barren of Belief affords not Faith so easily to the Story as this Land afforded Food to their ten hundred thousand men Anno 1569 when an hundred thousand fell at the famous Battel before Tangier The Soil of the Countrey of Armagh in Ireland is so rank of it self that if any compost or artificial improvement be added unto it it turns barren saith my ingenious Author out of fullenness and indignation that men should suspect the native fruitfulness thereof and Fat upon Fat is false Heraldry in Husbandry An English man once dunged two Acres of this Countrey towards Gosel and it 's barren to this day and called by the Inhabitants in the Punick Erapi vosci Dos Gods curse upon Europe Ships when sailing are generally conceived to have one moyety of them invisible under Water and some Countreys in like manner are counted to have their Wealth equally within the Earth and without it But the proportion holds not exactly in Fez whose visible Wealth far transcendeth her concealed Substance And yet we finde some Minerals therein of considerable use and value As 1. Brass and Iron so plentifully that though they have not the Blessing of Asher Thy shooes shall be iron and brass yet have they so competent a store of it that she is no Gentlewoman there that hath not her twenty great Iron Rings about her 2. Salt without which no Meat is savoury to Man no Sacrifice acceptable to God Abimelech sowed Sechem and Abdamelech Gasel with Salt There are two sorts of Salt 1. Fossilis digged 2. Coctilis boyled both here plentifully the first about Hea the last about Heahem and in Lakes near Fez where they set no Salt on their Tables but every one takes a little in his hand 3. Glass whereof the best in the World saith the great Historian of Nature is found on the River Belus and the next to that saith Solinus in Hevalous or as they call it now Hebal 4. Marble the great Ornament of their Cities and Temples 5. Precious Stones in abundance no doubt near Arzilla as we may guess by those few found there by chance by Vasquez in his second Expedition 6. Curious medicinal Waters arising from the sulphurious spring of Mount Anaba 7. For Gold and Silver though to avoid the Invasions of other Nations they say with St. Peter Silver and Gold have I none yet no doubt if the European Industry possessed the place of the Affrican sloth it would finde the Indies in its way thither for Fez the chief City of this Region hath its name from that Gold that is supposed to lie a breeding in the very Bowels of it But the upper fruitfulness of the Soyl makes them the more negligent in digging into the bowels thereof as those need not play beneath board who have all the Game in their own hands For this Countrey hath plenty 1. Of Oyl-Olive so called to difference it from Seed or Train-Oyl hereof there are three kindes or rather degrees whereof 1. the coursest makes lamps which they burn in their Mosques Temples and great Palaces Day and Night 2. A middle sort for fineness used for Meat or rather Sallad with their cold Herbs and colder Pap 3. The finest compounded with Spices for Ointment for Kings Priests and Ladies at their more solemn occasions of Pomp and State of
Governour as happy to improve Advantages as resolute to gain them sent a Letter to Gayland to let him know That his Master the King of Great Britain as he wanted neither Resolution nor Ability to manage his just Right in that Garrison so he was so great a Friend to Peace that he would be ready to entertain a better Correspondency with his Excellency Which seconded with the Defeat then only you oblige the unworthy when you can awe them prevailed so much upon the Usurper that he sent Messengers for a Treaty which had so fair a progress that both Parties came to an Agreement Indeed so ill was Gaylands success so great our progress in Fortifications such convenience we had for fresh Air and fresh Victualls that we were in a plight if it had been thought fit to have sent Sir John Lawson to do as much by Sea as we could do by Land to shut up the Havens and Towns of Sallee and Tituan and batter A●sella to the ground Every day put us in a better state both of freedom and security having by our late Treaty gained a six Months Peace which did exceedingly conduce to our settlement At our first arrival a Flux troubled us but within six Months our temper agreed exceedingly well with the temper of the Climate August 24. 1663. The Vigilancy Courage and Conduct of the Earl of Tiveot moved Gayland in his own Expression to require a Peace which although concluded but for six Months was by him desired for seven Years After which time the English Forts are finished and this Advice waited upon his Excellence who was then embarquing for Englond At that time the Design of the Mould intended for the safety and advantage of Shipping was in a good forwardness of persection the Passage of the Stone being out out of the Rocks way made for a Gun-powder blow undermining There was a new Key made 30 yards foundation laid 3 yards raised above water well they might for no Place in the World afforded either better Materialls or those more conveniently disposed for the perfecting of such a Work which the Moors call and others shall find The Key of the World Indeed they that understand the World and themselves very well look upon this Place with great hopes of the Reputation and Advantage it may one day bring to the English Nation August 26. 1663. The Moors kept their Peace made with the English very punctually whom they treated when they went down into their Countries which is rich and well inhabited with great Civility The Earl of Tiveot was much esteemed for his Valour and well beloved for his Candour and Humanity insomuch as the very Moors term him a Good Man and indeed he was a Person of exact honour and integrity The Place was healthy and the situation pleasant and Provisions of sorts in such abundance that a man can scarce live cheaper any where But about this time we began our Mould and found it very hard to blow up the Rocks under water to make way for our Boats and Engines which otherwise cannot bring Stone but with difficulty at the top of high water but in a month way was made for our Engines to weigh our Stones and in six weeks time we laid 30. yards of Foundation and raised that two yards high It should seem we are better at this work than any other this being better work than any in the Streight But that we might not only secure our selves but oblige our Neighbours we sent Supplyes with a great deal of hazard to the Saint Falle a Favour he acknowledged so great that he hath promised when ever it is in his power he will not be backward in requital And now Gayland Complements his Sacred Majesty in Spanish to this purpose A Letter from Gayland to His Sacred Majesty Charles the Second King of England Sacred Royal Majesty HAving been advertis'd by his Excellency the Earl of Tiveot of his sudden occasion to visit these Parts I could not forbear this Address in respect of the Peace and good Intelligence we have lately affected in Your Majesties Name And having found his Excellency a Cavalier of great Valour and Honour and of so noble a Mind I could not choose but desire to Correspond with him by my Letters to signifie my Inclination of Complyance in all things that concern the Service of Your Majesty and which formerly I have forborn to do for want of so fit a Juncture to enable me I hope from the Divine savour that this Peace will be attended with many considerable Augmentations in order to Your Majesties Service the effecting of which good Work being iustly attributed with no small prais●s to the Prudence of his Excellency I beseech Your Maiesty to command him speedily back that we may perfect all things with him so greatly to be loved and esteemed If in any parts of our Dominions there is any thing that offers it self for Your Majesties Service the signification of Your Commands shall be esteemed the greatest favour that can be expressed God keep your Maiesty and give You all manner of felicity And the Governour of Morocco to the King of Portugal thus The Copy of a Letter from the King of Tetuan Governour of Morocco to the King of Portugal Sancta Crux June 27. 1663. HIgh and Mighty Don Alfonso King of Roman Christians and of Portugal thanks be to God that we are obliged to give account and none is free from that duty and therefore we give him the prayse unto him due and this praise is for the dayly favour we receive from him By Order of the Servant of our Lord God on high to whom I submit all my affairs who is called Abdelazir 4 Mahomet Grand-son of Aly This our writing in the name of God our Lord. To your Majesty the King of Portugal Catholique D. Alfonso whom God bless and after that we give thanks to God for having made us Moors and Participate unto your Majesty how much we esteem the favour which you have done to my Servants who arrived in a little English Vessel safe in the Haven of Sancta Crux together with the good news which I received from the King Maly Mahomet to whom your Majesty was generously pleased to give his liberty and I for my part cannot but he very thankfull and doe offer my self and my Subjects with all that which from this Kingdom may be necessary to your Majesty without any fail and your Majesty whom God bless may out of hand make tryal thereof And I do give my Word and so this Letter goes signed by my hand and seal and from hence forward will celebrate the Peace between me and your Majesty with these undernamed conditions which are That all the Portugal Nation and their contractions may go and come enter and come out feeely into or from any of my Havens by Sea or Land with all security and in case they meet in the Sea with the Turk or any
Here are the Egipans that have onely the bodies of men sometimes made up of the necks and heads of Horses Mules Asses c. And 6. That this part of Affrica may have its share in that saying Semper aliquid Affrica portat novi Affrica is always teeming with some new Monster The other day not far from Tangier was to be seen a Child with an Eagles Bill Claws and Feathers too which was understood to bode some alteration in that Government whereupon the King and his Friends bestirred themselves against Gayland and he gathered up all his forces against us breaking the League with us and upon no terms admitting the Forts we designed in those parts to enlarge our quarters But the People that we converse with are as other men save that they are of a duskish Complexion and something inclining to black Their Stature tall and slender having much of the Arabians in them Their Nature subtle sly close and reaching Their Disposition active for War and Horsemanship otherwise there is not an idler people under the Cope of Heaven the simplest of them shall dwell with you a twelve-month and you know no more of his minde then the first day you saw him and he shall give as exact an account of your Actions Inclinations and Designes as any man living They are very proud and ambitious and shall do more for an Obeysance then they will sometimes for a Town and buy a Feather for their Cap at a higher rate then they will a Suit of Cloaths to their backs They are as light as the Feathers they wear and as unconstant as their Interest never trusted by the Spaniard or Portugez but when they had Swords in their hands Neither are they more wily themselves then jealous of others especially in the case of their Women whose feature is comely whose skin is delicately soft whose complexion is blackish and the darker the more amiable whose Ornaments are sumptuous onely to please their Husbands and keep at home it being death to stir abroad without leave and a Keeper Distrust is the nature there of every particular man and the policy of all whereby they keep strangers from that acquaintance with their advantages and disadvantages which otherwise they might have No peace is to be had with them without an Hostage no kindness without a security it being a saying amongst them as some think received by tradition from their Ancestors the Canaanites Remember Ai and distrust Hence they pretend it is one of the Laws of Mahomet as they alledged it to the Earl of Tiveot That they should not suffer either the Christians or the Europeans to build any Forts in their Country So cautious and wary are they that you can hardly wrong them and so implacable if you do that they will never forgive you Remember this said Gayland's Brother of a little Brush given them two years hence as much as to say We will never forget or forgive They are too ignoble to be Masters of that honourable quality of Passing by Offences And as they are themselves irreconcileable it 's the Heathens Character and it is a true one Without understanding Covenant-breakers without natural affection implacable unmerciful so they judge others too If once the Moore offendeth he will never trust you once angry he thinks and ever so his own unkindness makes him as much your enemy out of caution as yours can make him out of Passion A stately Gate is that which they observe most in themselves and that which they take most notice of and tender most respect to in others The Moore loves and fears a Man therefore the tallest and most personable men were employed to treat with that Barbarian who was more guided with his eyes then his ears with what he saw then what he heard in a word Appearances then Reasons And yet so much Reason are they Masters of that though their shifts tricks and unconstancy argue them men of a little reach those being onely the little ways and escapes of men that have not a solid wisdome to look round about them and carry on things handsomely they say when pressed to an Affair of a sudden Stay a little we must think what we shall do next year Though their Gate seem Majestick when they strut and walk yet none more low and despicable when they sit even in greatest state for when our General and Governour was to meet Gayland and his Nobility we found them all upon the ground upon their Carpets sitting cross-legged like Taylors Their Garments are as sumptuous as their Gate majestick for though the poorer sort wear raw Hides I mean Goatskins Leather Hair-cloth Sack-cloth and other course Vestinents yet we seldome meet them out of their fine Linen their Silk their Scarlet and their Cloth of Gold Of all Colours they as the Jews delight in white as the emblem of purity cheerfulness knowledge and victory No work are they more taken with then with Washing but their most solemn Colour is Black and their most Royal and Noble one is Blew the true and natural Dying whereof is lost in all the world but in that place Their Scarlet and Crimson is worn by the Nobility and their Purple which is but the Gaudiness of Red allayed with the Gravity of Blew is with them as with us Royal. Next their skin they wear Linen as most cleanly soft and wholsome but dyed in Violet loose and at night lie in the same Next this their Coat which comes down to their feet as modest and grave and about that a Girdle which is also their Purse Fringe is a great Ornament among their Priests Over this a Mantle which is among the poorer sort their Coat by day and by night their Coverlet As soon as they are born they are Coated and when Striplings the Coat is Party-coloured when Men the Coat becomes a Cloak when in the Field he hath a Coat of Maile tucked on with a Military Girdle his Bow and Arrow his Sword his Buckler his Pike and of late his Gun too to all this the Ancients adde his Staff all their Turbants or Mithraes of pleyted Linen or Callico in the manner of a Pyramide on their heads and their Sandals on their feet which had Soles but no upper Leather save onely the Ligaments whereby they were tied to the Instep and cross of the feet Hence their frequent Washings in those parts not onely to cool them but chiefly to clear them from the Gravel and cleanse them from the dirt which those Casements of their Sandals let in but for fear of foul weather they have their Shooes carried after them as the Jews had whence the expression whose shooes I am not worthy to bear Their Women are veiled and as I told you kept in but nobly apparelled with Garments wrought with Needle-work or very curiously woven adorned with their Ear-rings Bracelets Frontlets Mufflers and if they chance to go abroad Oh how they stretch out their necks how they walk and
Piety and Devotion and of Pleasure and Entertainment Three Carrects of Oyl was one of the designed Presents to the Renowned King CHARLES the First 1634 by Abdalla that were lost in the Mediterranean where Oyl it self sunk 2. Honey This is their Sugar as Salt is their Pepper whence it was called by the Ancients Terra Melliflua the Canaanites here for you shall hear anon how they fled hither from the face of Joshua as well as in their own Countrey enjoying a Land that flowed with Honey the Gentile part whereof use Honey after the Persian manner in their Sacrifices which Grotius saith is the reason why Honey was forbidden in the Jewish Oblations And to this Honey belongeth Wax wherewith they dress their Leather the best here if you will believe Valtolin that famous Shooe-Maker and Traveller whose Shooes were surely made of running Leather 3. Fruits The biggest and most plentiful that ever I read of As 1. Dates whereof there is this tradition amongst them That a Date-Tree over-shadowed an Olive-Tree and that Olive-Tree a Fig-Tree and that Fig-Tree a Pomegranate and that Pomegranate a Vine 2. Almonds 3. Nuts 4. Figs. 5. Pomegranates 6. Pears 7. Spices 8. Cherries 9. Plums and Apples Of which they made their most considerable Presents whereof good store were sent at several times to the Earles of Peterburrough and Tiveot from that excellent Rebel Gayland who wants nothing of a compleat man as Cromwel did not but that he hath not common Honesty 4. Barley It was the Humility of Christ it is the necessity of the Fezians to eat Barley-Loaves 5. Vines so good that notwithstanding the strict Laws of Mahomet to which they are most subject the inhabitants cannot but request their King to allow and the King cannot but grant them a liberty to drink Wine especially at Ezhaggen some fifteen Leagues off of Tangier where it 's a part of the City-Charter That they may drinke VVine on Mundays Tuesdays Thursdays and Sundays Yet as great as good so that what is prophesied of Judah may be true here That they may binde their foals to the Vine and their asses colts to the choice Vine though Vines with us are tied to other Trees for their support and that a Grape there in many places is as big as a Plum with us 6. Wood so that round Tangier the Countrey seemed formerly a continued Grove of sweet Firs shady Palms strong Oaks close Cypress c. and where Trees are wanting there Grass and Ferns look like thick Coppices so high that a whole Army may be lodged Horse and Foot in a field and not discerned as they did to our sorrow in the late action on the third of May 1664. These are their Vegetables Their Beasts are 1. Goats whose flesh is good Meat as their skins make good Leather and their Fleeces good Chamlets 2. Their Diet is so plain that they have very few Cattle for meat but many for shew and service as 1. Lyons so tame that they will gather stones up and down the streets in Fez and hurt none and his Highness Prince Rupert hath one of my Lord Rutherford's bestowing that will lie upon his Bed as quietly as any Lamb. 2. Elephants 3. Dragons 4. Leopards 5. Horses the handsomest the strongest and swiftest in the World A Barbary Horse is a Proverb I had almost forgot that Balm or Balsome whereof the first Plants Josephus saith Antiq. l. 8. the Queen of Sheba brought from this place to Judea This Balsome is two-fold 1. Xylo-Balsamum the Parent being the shrub out of which it proceeded 2. Opo-Balsamum being the Daughter which trickled like tears from the former Useful 1. for the Healthful making a most odoriferous and pleasant perfume 2. For the Sick being soveraign and medicinal 3. For the Dead being an admirable preservative against corruption To Balm I adde what is more necessary as well as more common I mean Water They think we Northern People are drowned with a Dropsie and we suspect they of the South are on fire with a Feavour This is a Land like Judea as it is described Deut. 8. 7. A land of brooks of waters of fountains and depths that spring out of valleys and hills 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 saith Strabo A well-watered Countrey Object But you will say Our Englishmen talk of Mountains and Hills Answ Such fruitful Hills as make the Land insensibly larger in extent though no whit less in increase some Cattle as Goats some Fruits as Vines thrive never better than on these Mountains or on the side of these Hills 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Grassie and fair fruitful Hills which as they afford a plentiful Prospect so they conduce much to make the Cities impregnable that are built among them Object They talk of Desarts too Answ Indeed the word Desart sounds hideously in an English Ear and frights our Fancies with the apparitions of a place full of dismal shades salvage Beasts and doleful Desolation whereas among these People it imports no more than a woody Retiredness from publick Habitation most of them in extent not exceeding our great Parks in England and more alluring with the pleasure of privacy than affrighting with the sadnesse of Solitariness SECT II. TOuching the Inhabitants of this place we are to understand That when the Isles of the Gentiles were divided among the Sons of Noah this Coast fell to the lot of Mizraim and Phut the sons of Cham who first inhabited it upon the dispersion but thinly until upon Joshua's approach the Canaanites fled hither from the face of Joshua and built Tangier as will appear more particularly in the description of that place Of those Canaanites there were seven People whereof six came hither As 1. The Hittites those sons of Anak so formidable to their Foes that some conceive them named from Hittah to scare or frighten such the terrible impressions of them upon their Enemies 2. The Gergashites whom the Hierusalem-Talmud makes to dwell near Cinnereth on the East of Jordan whence they stole faith my Author into Egypt 3. The Canaanites particularly so called that dwelt by the sea and coast of Jordan 4. The Cadmonites or Easterlings 5. The Amorites 6. The Arvadites These men possessed the place until the Phoenicians and most remote Punicks dispossessed them and they until the Saracens turned them out of doors 1. Here are placed the Cynocephali that have heads like Dogs snouts like Swine and ears like Horses 2. Here are the Sciapodes that have such a broad foot and but one that they cover their heads from the heat of the Sun and the violence of the showrs by lifting this up over them 3. Here are the Gumnosophantes that go naked and fear nothing more then a cloathed man being ignorant of the use of Weapons and one being able without a miracle to chase 1000 of them 4. Here are the Blemmiae men that walk as St. Dyonis did from Paris to Rheimes without heads having their eyes and mouths in their breasts 5.