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A61936 A Succinct description of France wherein is a character of the people, customs, &c. of that kingdom : sent by a gentleman now travelling there, to his friend in England : dedicated to that eminent and learned physician, Dr. Martin Lister, and may serve as a supplement to his Journey to Paris. Philo-Patriae, Eugenius. 1700 (1700) Wing S6114A; ESTC R17433 42,222 80

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is now the Seat of an Archbishop a Preferment rather Intellectual than Real for the Dignity is too unweildy for the Revenue which is but 600 l. a Year As at Deipe I saw the Papists Idolatry The Superstition of the Papists so here I observ'd their Superstitious use of Holy-Water an Invention of Pope Alexander VII Bishop of Rome The Citations of Scripture upon which this Foppery is grounded are all taken out of the Vulgar Latin Translation attributed to St. Jerom whereas there was no such Translation in Alexander's time nor was St. Jerom Born till above three hundred Years after him It is compounded of Salt and Water Conjured together by a Priest for so the Words run Exorcizo te creatura Salis and afterwards Exorcizo te aquae e. This done the Salt is sprinkled Cross wise into the Water and put into a Cistern standing at the Entrance into their Churches and the People coming in dip their Fingers into it and make the Sign of the Cross upon their Foreheads and think themselves sufficiently bless'd for that Day On the Top of one of the Towers you have the best Prospect of Paris The great Bell and use of it and the Valley round about it In one of these Towers is an ordinary Ring of Bells in the other but two the biggest of which is said to be greater than that at Rouen which is eight Yards and a Span in compass and two Yards and a half deep The Bowl of the Clapper being a Yard and half about and requires thirty Men to Ring it which is never done but in a very great Thunder to allay the noise in the Element Not far from the West-gate of this Church The great Hospital is the great Hospital of Paris Founded by King Lewis Anno 1258. and has since that time been very much enlarg'd by several Benefactors In this Hospital are numbred almost a Thousand Beds in every Bed two Persons besides those for the Officers of the House and in truth is kept so cleanly it is sweeter walking here than in any Streets of Paris Next to these is la Sainte Chapelle The Holy Chappel and its Reliques situate in the middle of the Palais Founded by Lewis IX Anno 1248. The excellency in the Painting of the Glass-windows and the curious Workmanship of the Organ-Case is worthy Admiration In it are abundance of Relicks as the Crown of Thorns the Blood which ran from our Saviour's side his Swadling Clouts a great piece of the Cross the Chain wherewith the Jews bound him a great piece of the Stone of his Sepulcher some of the Virgin 's Milk the Head of the Launce which pierced our Saviour his Purple Robe the Sponge a piece of his Shroud the Napkin wherewith he was girt when he washed his Disciples Feet the Rod of Moses the Head of St. Blase St. Clement and St. Simeon and part of St. John Baptist's It was with some difficulty we procur'd the sight of these they were too Holy to be seen by Protestants but when they consider'd our Money was Catholick we were admitted to view them and Venerable Relicks we should have esteem'd them if they could have fool'd us into a Belief that they were all sixteen hundred Years old and yet neither the Blood nor Milk dry'd up nor the rest of the Trinkets never the worse for wearing Without this Chappel is the Burse The Burse or Exchange la Gallery de Merchands a rank of Shops in shew but not in Substance like those in the Exchange at London Next and adjoining to these The great Palace is the great Palais within the Verge of which are the seven Chambers of Parliament of which le Grand Chamber is the finest and in it is the Throne or Royal Seat of the King Cloath'd with Purple Velvet when they expect him and at other times naked This Court of Parliament was Instituted for the preservation of the Rights and Privileges of the People and was anciently of great Authority but now is dwindl'd into nothing in that respect and they now only sit to dispatch what the King commands them The King's Palace is seated on the West-side of the Ville of Paris The King's Palace or the L'Ouvre hard by Port Neuf and the new Bridge built by Philip Augus tus Anno 1214. and intended for a Castle It is call'd the Louvre quasi l' Ouvre or the Work by way of excellency The French Writers have rais'd it to a Miracle but for my part I never saw any thing more abus'd by a good Report or that more scandalizes the Rumour that is made about it I expected to have seen some Prodigy of Architecture which would have put me into such a Passion as to have cry'd out with the young Gallant in the Comedy when he saw his Mistress Hei mihi qualis erat talis erat qualem nunquam ego vidi But I was balk'd in my Expectation and could find nothing in it to Admire much less to Envy The Fable of the Mountain which was with Child and brought forth a Mouse is questionless a Fable and this House and the Fame it has acquir'd in the World is the M●ral of it for if you carefully examine it in parts it will appear so disagreeable to it self and the Rules of Art that the whole does not merit the Character that is given it The Draw-Bridges and the three Gates are unsightly at your entrance In the Quadrangle are several Fashions of Buildings of three or four Ages ago and as Inartificially and Immethodically joyn'd as if they had been jumbled together by an Earthquake The South and West parts the Work of Francis I. and his Son Henry are Prince like and when the rest of the House is cast in the same Mould it may deserve the Character of a stately Pile of Building The Inside is worse than the Outside and so cluster'd with many little Rooms that it looks more like a Tavern than a King's Palace especially when you consider tho' the Chambers are well built they are but very indifferently furnish'd The first of the two Galleries is curiously adorn'd with Pictures of the Kings and Queens of France the Tables all of a just length The fine Gallery incomparably Painted and contain a perfect History of the State and Court of France in their several Successions for under each of their Kings Pictures are those of the Lords who had Signaliz'd themselves in Honourable Actions And under each of the Queens the lively Pourtraitures of the Principal Ladies who had honour'd the Court with their Beauty and Virtue A witty Invention and as happily express'd by the Artists The Long Gallery is about five hundred Yards in length The long Gallery and of breadth and heighth not unproportionable A Room built rather for Ostentation than Use and has more in it of the Majesty than the Grace of its Founder The principal Beauty if I might judge of the Louvre is