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A29631 Travels over England, Scotland and Wales giving a true and exact description of the chiefest cities, towns, and corporations, together with the antiquities of divers other places, with the most famous cathedrals and other eminent structures, of several remarkable caves and wells, with many other divertive passages never before published / by James Brome ... ; the design of the said travels being for the information of the two eldest sons, of that eminent merchant Mr. Van-Ackar. Brome, James, d. 1719. 1700 (1700) Wing B4861; ESTC R19908 191,954 310

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that Mellitus was consecrated Bishop of London The above-mentioned Prince not only assenting to his Consecration by his Presence but likewise largely contributing to the support of the Person chosen and his Successors by enriching them with great Possessions This Cathedral was dedicated by Ethelbert to St. Andrew as that which he built likewise at London was to St. Paul but whatever the Piety of that Prince and other Religious Persons after him did in former Ages contribute to its enlargement and beautifying the late prevailing Faction of some injurious Incendiaries did in a few Months dispoil and almost abolish and the Scars which still remain in its Sacred Body are too pregnant Symptoms to convince the World what usage it received from those Sacrilegious Boutefeus whose great Triumphs would have been over its Ruins and chiefest Glory to have laid its Honour in the Dust had not he who sets bounds to the tempestuous Ocean limited their Fury and rescued it from their Malice From Rochester the curious Stone-Bridge built over the River Medway by Sir Robert Knolles which is one of the largest Bridges in England being fixed upon 21 Arches and coped above with Iron Bars by Arch-Bishop Warham leads us to Stroud Stroud a Place where the Knights Templars had formerly an eminent Mansion and the Chappel of St. Nicholas was improved to a Mother Church and endowed being divided by too great a distance from the Church of Frendsbury to which it had been annexed and which was supposed uncapable for so great a conflux of People as began every day to multiply within the Liberties of Stroud Medway The River Medway is carried into the Aestuary of Thames by two Mouths the one whereof Westward is called West-Swale as the Eastern one which seems to have cut the Isle of Shepey from the Continent East-Swale but by Bede Genlad and Yenlett Now it is rather probable that this was the Swalve mentioned by Birchington P. 216. wherein Austen the Monk baptized Ten thousand Men and not the Swale in Richmondshire P. 163. that being the River where Paulinus his great Friend and Coadjutor baptized the like number Island of Shepey And now having made mention of the Isle of Shepey I cannot but observe that it was formerly very famous for two Religious Princesses Sexburga and Hermenilda Sexburga the Daughter of Anna the Seventh King of the East-Angles and his Wife Hereswyda Sister to the Holy Abbess St. Hylda was married to Erconbertus King of Kent in the Fifth Year of her Father's Reign by whom she had two Sons Egbert and Lotharius and two Daughters Ermenilda and Erkengota Sexburga after her Husband's Death governed the Kingdom of Kent twenty-four Years until her Son Egbert was grown up to be fit to undertake the Government which having once committed to him she laid aside her Royal Robes and betaking her self to this Island built here a Nunnery A. D. 710. and endowed it liberally for Seventy-seven Nuns Afterwards committing it to the care of her Daughter Ermenilda she went into the Isle of Ely to her Sister Ethelreda where after her Death she was Abbess of the same Nunnery all this while living a very severe mortified Life and giving up her self wholly to Prayer and Devotion Afterward the Nunnery being burnt by the Danes it was re-ediffed by William Arch-Bishop of Canterbury A. D. 1130. to the Honour of St. Mary and St. Sexburg But on the 21th of September the Festival of St. Matthew our Journey began to draw near to an end Gravesend for our last Stage being by Gravesend a Town notorious as well for its Block-Houses opposite to each other as the great conveniency of a Passage in Wherries every Tide up and down the River Thames to Dartford Dartford a Market Town of no small account for all sort of Grain by reason of its Vicinity to the Grand Emporium of this Nation we departed from thence to the City and arrived again at London in great Health and Safety after some months Circuit about the Maritime Coasts of Great Britain FINIS An Alphabetical Table containing the Names of all the Cities Towns Islands Hills Rivers Meers Wells and other Curiosities mentioned in this Book A ABerbarry Cave in Wales Page 24 Abington Berkshire 104 Allfretton Derbys 86 Alnwick Northumb. 135 Anglesey Island 226 Appleby Westmorl 210 Are a River in Yorks 216 Arundel Sussex 258 Ashbourn Derbys 95 Aukland Bishoprick of Durham 166 Avon a River in Glocester Worcester nad Hampshire 10 St. Asaph in Wales 223 Astroites 12 Ariconium 17 Acamannum or Akemancester 37 Adderbourn 42 Aeton College 112 Allum Mines 162 Alne a River 135 St. Andrews 188 Aberdeen 188 Albany a Hill in Scotland 181 Argyle 193 Anandale 204 Anan a River ibid. Ashburton 243 Axminster 244 Axi a River ibid. Aven a River 249 Amberly Castle 257 Andreswald Wood. 257 Anderida 260 Aberdeen Well 188 B Beray 108 Bakewel 89 Bangor 228 Berkshire 104 Barkway 57 Berwick upon Tweed 178 Bath in Somersets 37 Battel Suss 261 Bay of Robinhood 123 Beaconsfield 3 Beverly Yorks 152 Bosworth Leicest 75 Bourn in Sussex 259 Bramyard Herefords 16 Brecknock-shire and Brecnock 22 Brentford 113 Bristol 27 Brent a River 131 Burgh in Westmorl 210 Buckinghamshire 2 Buddesdale Suff. 127 Bungay 132 Burford in Oxfords 5 Burntwood in Essex 115 Burlip Hill 9 Black Mountain 20 Barnewel 58 Bennet College 61 Bodleian Library 5 Buxton VVell 93 Betheny 96 Battlefield 100 Bone VVell 102 Blith a River 133 Boston Lincolns 144 Barton 149 Binchester 167 Bamborough Castle 176 Borders of Scotland 180 Bannock a Scotch River ibid. Bass a Scotch Island 147 Buqhan ibid. Burning Stone 183 Brovonacum 210 Bows Westmorl 211 Bremetonacum 219 Bala Pool 174 Bridport 244 Bere 247 Badbury 248 Bitchborow 272 C Caerlegion 221 Caermardenshire and Caermarden 24 25 Cambridgeshire 57 Cambridge 58 Christs College 62 Calshot Castle Hamps 252 Canterbury 216 Cardiganshire and Cardigan 25 Carlile 206 Caernavenshire 227 Chatham 218 Clemsford 115 Chepstow 21 Cheshire 219 Chester 221 Chichester 255 Christ-Church Hamps 249 Church-Stretton Shrops 101 Ciciter Glocest 8 Cleveland Yorks 164 Colchester 116 Colebrook and Cole a River 113 Columpton 233 Cornwal 240 Coventry 72 Cows in Isle of Wight 252 Cumberland 205 Coleshil 74 Colne a River 2 Cherwel a River 3 Cotswold Hills 6 Churne a River 8 Corinium Dobunorum ibid. Caer-Gloyn 9 Caergorangon 14 Cadier Arthur 22 Cardiff Town 23 Caves near Carreg Castle 25 Chorea Gigantum 40 Caer-Gwent 45 Cam a River 58 Camboricum 59 Christ-Church Oxford 5 Carleton 77 Castle in the Peak and Castleton 90 Chatsworth 94 Caerpengren 100 Corve a River 101 Chelmer a River 115 Can a River ibid. Cerdick Sand. 134 Castor 135 Caerludecote 146 Caer Ebrank 154 Coal Mines 127 Chester on the Street Alias Cunacester 170 Capreae Caput 171 Coquet a River 175 Cheriot Hills 180 Clayd a River in Scotl. ibid. Carrick 181 Cumbernauld Park ibid. Camelon a City 202 Carron a River ibid. Copper Mines 205
Descent of the Holy Ghost with the perfect Figures and Resemblances of our Lord's Crucifixion and Resurrection and divers other Circumstances that attended him both at his Nativity and Passion And for the Encouragement of Piety and Learning every Sunday Morning throughout the Year there is a Sermon preached by such Ministers as the Bishop shall appoint to each of which is presented Twenty Shillings left as a Legacy to the Church for this Religious purpose by one who had formerly been Mayor of this City But before I leave this place as the Duke of Norfolk's Palace adorned with curious Granaries and a large and spacious Bowling-Alley so the Mount on the East-side of the City called Ket's-Castle must not be passed by in silence for it was the Harbour and Nest of Ket a Tanner of Windham that notorious Ring-leader of Rebellion in King Edward the Sixth's Days who with no less Violence assaulting the City than afflicting the Citizens did at last receive the just Reward of his Rebellion when all the Seditious Rabble being persuaded to desert him he was hanged up in Chains on the Top of Norwich Castle After some few Days abode in this City we travelled on to a little Village called Tettles-Hall Tettles-Hall in the Parish Church whereof is erected a stately Monument of Marble in Honour to Sir Edward Cook that most famous Lawyer of his time on the top are placed his Coat of Arms with the four Cardinal Virtues to support them at each corner his Effigies is of Marble laid out in full length above which this Motto is engraved Prudens qui Patiens and underneath in Golden Characters this following Inscription The Monument of Sir Edward Cook Knight born at Mileham in Norfolk Recorder of Norwich and London Sollicitor to Queen Elizabeth and Speaker to the Parliament afterward Attorney-General to Her and King James Chief Justice of both Benches a Privy-Counsellor as also of Council to Queen Ann and Chief Justice in Eyre of all her Forests Chases and Parks Recorder of Coventry and High-Steward of Cambridge of which he was a Member in Trinity-College He died in the Eighty-third year of his Age his last Words being these Thy Kingdom come thy will be done His Epitaph this Deo Optimo Maximo Hae exuviae humanae exspectant Resurrectionem Piorum Hic situs est Non perituri Nominis Edvardus Cooke Eques Auratus Legum anima interpres Oraculum non dubium Arcanorum Promicondus Mysteriorum Cujus fere unius beneficio Jurisperiti nostri sunt Jurisperiti Eloquentiae flumen torrens fulmen Suadae Sacerdos Vnicus Divinus Heros Pro rostris ita dixit Vt literis insudasse crederes non nisi humanis Ita vixit ut non nisi divinis Sacerrimus integrae pietatis Indagator Integritas ipsa Verae semper caussae constantissimus assertor Nec favore nec muncribus violandus Eximic misericors Charior erat huic Reus quam sibi Miraculi instar est Sicculus saepe ille audiit sententiam in se prolatam Nunquam hic nisi madidoculus protulit Scientiae Oceanus Quique dum vixit Bibliotheca viva Mortuus dici meruit Bibliothecae Parens Duodecim Liberorum Tredecim Librorum Pater Facescant hinc Monumenta Facessant Marmora Nisi quod pios fuisse denotarunt posteros Ipse sibi suum est Monumentum Marmore perennius Ipse sibi sua est Aeternitas Next to Sir Edward stands likewise a Marble Monument of his first Wife Bridget Daughter of John Paston Esq with Eight of her Children six Sons and two Daughters his second Wife was the Lady Elizabeth Daughter to Thomas Earl of Exeter by whom he had only two Daughters Having given a solemn Vale to this great Man's Tomb Lyn. we took up our next Quarters at Lyn which though but of a late being having received its Original from Old Lyn which is seated in the Marsh-Land and is opposite against it yet it is grown of far greater request for the commodiousness of its Haven and safe Harbour cause a great resort of Mariners to frequent it and the Vessels which coming loaded with Coals from Newcastle do lighten here their Burdens and are conveyed up the River by Lighters and Barges drawn along by Horses into divers parts of the adjacent Counties 'T is a large Town surrounded with a deep Trench and for the most part Walled the Streets are well paved and kept clean and 't is divided by two small Rivers over which there are Fifteen Bridges It is called Old Lyn and Linnum Regis i. e. King 's Lyn though before the Reign of Henry the Eighth it was called Bishop's Lyn because the Ground it stands upon belonged to the Bishops of Norwich There are five Churches with a Free-School to adorn it the chief of which is a curious Fabrick dedicated to St. Margaret upon the top of which stands a large and stately Lanthorn very admirable for its rare Workmanship and here is once a Year about February held a great Mart for all sorts of Commodities by which no small Benefit accrues to it The Town is governed by a Mayor and Aldermen who have received great Favours and Privileges from their Sovereigns but their chief and most munificent Benefactor was King John who for the good Service they had done him in the defence of his Quarrel not only presented them with his own Sword from his side which is continually carried before the Mayor whenever he pleaseth to appear in State but likewise gave them a great Silver Cup gilt for the use of the Corporation which because they shew as a main Badge and Cognizance of Royal Favour to all Strangers and Foreigners of any Note or Repute they seldom produce it unless filled with Wine to drink His Majesty's and Mr. Mayor's Healths for which there is a generous Allowance proportioned by the Town We rested here one Night but the next Day being summoned away by the Tide whose Motions we were enforced to wait on and observe we Ferried over into Mersh-Land and posted away for the Washes through which we were to pass into the Frontiers of Lincolnshire The Washes The Washes are called by Ptolemy Metaris Aestuarium being a very large Arm which every Tide and high Sea covers over with Water but when the Sea Ebbs and the Tide is gone 't is as easie to pass over them as upon dry Ground though not without some danger for Strangers who are unacquainted with their Tracts and Channels which King John found true by woful Experience for whilst for the more speed he journeyed this way when he was engaged in the War against the disaffected Barons his Men not aware of such Irruptions the Waters unexspectedly broke in upon them by which means he lost all his Carriage and Furniture Hereupon to prevent all such unwelcom Dangers we hired a Guide to ride before us by whose conduct we nimbly tripped over those dangerous Plains and arrived safe at last out of these troublesom Territories of
corrupted both their Faith and their Fortitude and straitway restored it to the English Crown A great while after when England was embroiled in Civil Wars King Henry the Sixth flying into that Kingdom for refuge surrendred it up into the hands of that King to secure him his Life and Safety in that Country but many Years were not expired before Sir Thomas Stanley did again reduce it under the command of King Edward the Fourth but not without a great loss of his Men and much Blood spilt about its Walls since which our Kings have been still strengthening it with new Fortifications especially Queen Elizabeth who to the Terrour of the Scots and Safe-guard of this Nation enclosed it about in a narrower compass within the old Wall with a high Wall of Stone most strongly compacted which she hath so forwarded again with a Couterscarp a Bank round about with Mounts of Earth cast up on high and open Terraces above-head upon all which are planted a double tire of great Ordnance that when the Scots entred England in 1640 they took Newcastle but durst not attempt Berwick In this place is still maintained a constant Garrison of Soldiers and the Guards which are placed at the foot of the Bridge which is built over the Tweed do every Night pull up the Draw-Bridges and lock up the Gates which give entrance into the Town so that there is no admission when once the day is gone Tweed All along the Tweed is notable Fishing for Salmons of which there is such great store and plenty in this River that they take vast numbers at one draught as we were credibly informed by the Fishermen of this place who hire out the Fishery from the Lords of the River and have each Man his Bounds set out and mark'd for him The Salmon which they catch are dried barrelled up and transported beyond Seas and are purchased at such easie and cheap Rates that a Man may buy one of the largest for a Shilling and boil it and eat it while the Heart is yet alive a thing which is frequently practised in this place nay they are so common about these Parts that the Servants as they say do usually indent with their Masters when they hire them to feed them with this Fish only some Days in the Week that they may not be nauseated by too often eating of it but as for all other Provisions they are scarce enough here and dearer than in any other parts of the North so that he that first called Berwick the little Purgatory betwixt England and Scotland by reason of the hard Usage and Exactions which are customary here did confer upon it a very just and deserved Title The Borders of Scotland After we were past Berwick we came into that noted Ground lying betwixt the two Kingdoms called the Borders the Inhabitants whereof have ever been reputed a sort of Military Men subtile nimble and by reason of their frequent Skirmishes to which they were formerly accustomed well experienced and adventurous These Borders have been formerly of a far greater extent reaching as far as Edinburgh-Frith and Dunbritton Northward and taking in the Counties of Northumberland Cumberland and Westmorland Southward but since the Norman Conquest they have been bounded by Tweed on the East Solway on the West and the Cheuiot Hills in the midst From these Borders we marched towards the Kingdom of Scotland concerning which I shall in the first place give a brief Account of some Observations we made here in general before I proceed to a particular Description of such Places and Cities through which we travelled From whence at first it received this denomination is dubious and uncertain Scotland being formerly called Caledonia from the Caledonii a chief People of it and Albania from Albany a principal Province in the North but as for the Inhabitants some will fetch their Original from thy Scythi a Sarmatian People of great Renown who after they had wandred about through many Countries came at last and setled themselves in this place but the most probable Opinion is that they were no other than Irish united in the name of Scot about the declination of the Roman Empire the word Scot signifying in their Language a Body aggregated into one out of many particulars as the word Alman in the Dutch Language Though I find the Scotch Historians will rather derive it from Scota Daughter to Pharoah King of Egypt who being given in Marriage to Gathelus Son of Cecrops King of Athens who with some valiant Grecians and Egyptians transplanted themselves into a part of Spain then called Lusitania but by reason of his arrival named Port-gathel now Portugal they afterwards setling themselves in Gallicia sent from thence a new Colony into Ireland from whence at last they removed into this Country This Gathelus brought with him from Egypt the Marble fatal Chair which was transported to Ireland and to Albion now called Scotland wherein all their Kings were Crowned until the time of King Edward the First who transported the whole ancient Regalia of Scotland with the Marble fatal Chair to Westminster where it remaineth to this day by which was fulfilled that ancient Scotch Prophecy thus expressed in Latin by Hector Boethius Ni fallat fatum Scoti hunc quocunque locatum Invenient lapidem regnare tenentur ibidem In English by Raphael Holinshead Except old Saws do fail And Wisards Wits be blind The Scots in place must Reign Where they this Stone shall find By another Hand thus The Scots shall brook that Realm as Native Ground If Weirds fail not where e'er this Chair is found This Kingdom being divided into two parts by the River Tay hath thirty-four Counties in the South part are reckoned up these that follow Teifidale March Lothien Liddesdale Eskdale Annandale Niddesdale Galloway Carrick Kyle Cunningham Arran Cluidsdale Lennox Sterling Fife Stratherne Menth Argile Cantire Lorne In the North part are reckoned these Counties Loquhabre Braid-Albin Perth Athol Angus Merne Marr Buquhan Murray Ross Southerland Cathaness Steathnavern These are subdivided again according to their Civil Government into divers Seneschallies or Sheriffdoms which are commonly Hereditary and the People which inhabit each are called High-landers and Low-landers The Highlanders High-landers who inhabit the West part of the Country in their Language Habit and Manners agree much with the Customs of the Wild Irish Elgin and their chief City is Elgin in the County of Murray seated upon the Water of Lossy formerly the Bishop of Murray's Seat with a Church sumptuosly built but now gone to decay They go habited in Mantles striped or streaked with divers colours about their Shoulders which they call Plodden with a Coat girt close to their Bodies and commonly are naked upon their Legs but wear Sandals upon the Soles of their Feet and their Women go clad much after the same Fashion They get their Living mostly by Hunting Fishing and Fowling and when they go to War the