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A07834 An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson Gent. First in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres trauell through the tvvelue dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts. The I. part. Containeth a iournall through all the said twelue dominions: shewing particularly the number of miles, the soyle of the country, the situation of cities, the descriptions of them, with all monuments in each place worth the seeing, as also the rates of hiring coaches or horses from place to place, with each daies expences for diet, horse-meate, and the like. The II. part. Containeth the rebellion of Hugh, Earle of Tyrone, and the appeasing thereof: written also in forme of a iournall. The III. part. Containeth a discourse vpon seuerall heads, through all the said seuerall dominions. Moryson, Fynes, 1566-1630. 1617 (1617) STC 18205; ESTC S115249 1,351,375 915

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for certaine yeeres sinnes praying on other daies and the remission of the third part of all sinnes praying there vpon Saint Peters euen And you must vnderstand that all these Churches haue some like indulgences Here they shew the bodies of Saint Simeon and Saint Iude the Apostle and Saint Iohn Chrysostome and of Pope Saint Gregory the Great and the head of Saint Andrew and of Saint Luke the Euangelist and halfe the bodies of Saint Peter and Saint Paul and Christs face printed vpon the hand-kercher of Veronica and the head of the speare thrust into the side of Christ and among many pillars brought from Hierusalem one vpon which Christ leaned when he did preach and cast out Diuels which yet hath power as they say to cast out Diuels Alwaies vnderstand that in Italy Priests that cast out Diuels are most frequent neither are they wanting in any place where the Papists can hide their impostures Great part of these relikes they say were sent by the Turkish Emperour to Pope Innocent the eight But I omit these things into which none but Papists may safely inquire and returne to the monuments which lie open to euery mans view The Chappell is most rich in which Gregory the xiij lies and the stately sepulcher of Pope Paul the third hath most faire statuaes The statua of Saint Peter of brasse placed vnder the Organs was of old erected to Iupiter Capitolinus In the Court of the Church for I cannot call it a Church-yard the Emperour Otho the second lies buried in a low sepulcher of Porphry There is a most faire Pineaple of brasse guilded more then fiue cubites high which they say was brought hither from the monument of the Emperour Andrian in the place where the Castle of Saint Angelo now stands as likewise the Peacockes were brought from the Monument of Scipio The third Church of S t Paul is without the XIII gate of S t Paul about a mile from the City in the way to Ostia and they say it was built by Constantine and it stands vppon eighty eight pillars of marble in foure rowes each pillar being but one stone and it is adorned with marble staires and pictures Alla Mosaica as if they were engrauen which are onely in the chancell and neere the doore The Popes haue giuen great indulgences to these Churches as well as to others They shew here the bodies of Saint Timothy Saint Celsus and Sant Iulian Disciples to Saint Paul and halfe the bodies of Saint Peter and S t Paul and a Crucifix which of old spake to Saint Briget the Queene of Sueuia and many armes and fingers of Saints Neere this Church is that of Saint Anastatius where the head of Saint Paul being cut off made three leapes and in the place where it fell they say there sprang vp three fountaines which are there to bee seene The fourth Church of Saint C Mary Maggiore is vpon the Mount Esquiline I will omit hence forward the indulgences and relikes lest I be tedious This Church is adorned with forty pillars of Marble The rich Chappell di praesepio so called of the cratch in which Christ was borne being kept here is stately adorned with the pauement engraued the arched roofe guilded pictures Alla Mosaica as if they were engrauen the stately sepulcher of Pope Nicholas and his statua of white marble The Chappell of Pius Qutntus built for him after his death by Sixtus the fifth is adorned with the Victory painted in golden letters which he and his confederates had by sea against Selimus Emperour of the Turkes and is adorned with statuaes guilded with foure Angels guilded and precious stones together with the rare Art of engrauers and Painters The fifth Church S. Lorenzo is without the VIII gate of that name in the way to Tiburtina something more then a mile from the City and it is said to be built by Constantine the Great He that goes to this Church euery wednesday in a whole yeere shall deliuer a soule from Purgatory if the Pope keepe his promise It is adorned with a Pulpit of white marble and most faire ophite stones and at the doore with a sepulcher of Saint Eustacius of white marble curiously carued and another sepulcher opposite to that The sixth Church S. Sebastiano is without the XII gate of that name more then a mile out of the City in the way of Appius Here is a place called Catacombe and there is a well in which they say the bodies of Saint Paul and Saint Peter did lie vnknowne a long time and here is a way vnder earth to the Church yard of Calixtus where they say the Christians lav hid in the times of persecution and that there were found 174. thousand which had beene made Martyres and that eight of these were Bishops of Rome Here on all sides with amazement I beheld the ruines of old buildings and the sepulcher of the Emperour Aurelius is not farre from this Church The seuenth Church D di S. Croce in Gierusalem is seated between the gate Maggiore the gate S. Giouanni vpon the Mount Celius or rather Celiolus being part of it and it is said that Constantine the Great built it Here they shew a little vessell filled with the blood of Christ and the spunge which they gaue him with vineger vpon the crosse and the title which Pilate writ vpon the Crosse and one of the thirty pence which Iudas tooke for betraying Christ. And no woman may enter into the Chappell wherein Helena is said to haue praied but once onely in the yeere vpon the twelfth of March. And this Church giues the title to a Cardinall The second day we began the view of Rome with the Q Popes Pallace seated in the part of the Citie called Il'Borgo which Pallace Pope Nicholas the third built and Nicholas the fifth compassed with walles and the Pallace is of great circuit and the staires are so easie that Horses and Mules may goe vp to the top of the Mountaine and with easie ascent and descent beare the Popes carriage At the enterance there be three galleries one aboue the other whereof the two first were built by Leo the tenth and Paul the third and the third and highest by Sixtus Quintus and they are all fairely painted and guilded Vpon these lie two large chambers and beyond them is a vast and long gallery of foure hundred seuentie and one walking paces in the middest whereof is the famous Librarie of the Popes In vaticano and therein are many inscriptions of the Pope Sixtus Quintus who repaired it and it is adorned with many faire pictures guilded all ouer I did fee the seuerall roomes thereof The first one hundred fortie and seuen walking paces long had three rowes of Cubbards filled with bookes the second was thirtie nine paces long and the third containing the bookes of greatest price locked vp was twentie paces long Pope Sixtus the fourth built this Librarie with the Chappell of the Pallace and the Conclaue The
and there were no Magistrates for foure yeeres At last Iulius Caesar with the title of perpetuall Dictator inuaded the Empire which being after diuided into the Orientall and Occidentall Empire and the Occidentall being destroied by the incursions of barberous Nations the Bishops of Rome by little and little cast their Orientall Lords out of Italy and erected a new Occidentall Empire in France that they might inuade the power of the Roman Emperors and of the heauenly iurisdiction vpon earth vnder pretext of Religion by a new monster of a Roman wit drawne from the supremacy of the Apostle Saint Peter Pliny in his time makes the circuit of Rome twenty miles and Vopiscus in the time of the Emperour Aurelius makes the circuit fifty miles but he ioyned to Rome all the neighbour villages At this day if you adde to Rome the two parts beyond Tyber called Trasteuere and Borgo the circuit at the most is fifteene miles for others say thirteene or fourteene besides that a very great part of this circuit within the walles is not inhabited and the walles not withstanding lie not vpon their old foundations neither are built of that matter but as it pleased those who repaired them Among which Belisarius gouernour of Italy vnder the Emperour Iustinian built Rome demolished by the Gothes and made the circuit of the walles lesse and Pope Adrian the first a Roman the wals being fallen built them as now they stand and many of his successours haue since added new ornaments to decaied Rome But the old wals as appeares by some ruines were built of foure square stone the rest are of diuers building as it pleased the repairers and haue a bricke gallery to walke vpon vnder which men may stand dry when it raines and they being ready to fal with age haue many round Towers which in like sort are ready to fall Rome at this day is troubled with the old ouerflowings of Tyber by reason of the Tybers narrow bed not able to receiue the waters falling suddenly from neere mountaines after great raine or melting of snow For memory whereof these inscriptions are vpon the wals of the Church of Saint Mary sopra Minerua In the yeere 1530. if I be not deceiued for the first words are raced out the Ides of October Clement the seuenth being Pope Huc Tyber ascendit iamque obruta totafuisset Roma nisi celerem virgo tulisset opem Thus farre came Tyber and all Rome had drown'd Had we not from the Virgin swift helpe found And there in another place this verse is written in the yeere MVD. Extulit huc tumidas turbidus Amnis aquas Thus farre this muddy brookes water did swell In each place is a red marke vpon the wals how high the water ascended by which it appeares marking the seat of the Church that all the plaine was ouerflowed betweene it and the Tyber By reason of these flouds and for that the City is built vpon the caues of old Rome which makes the foundations to be laid with great charge and also by reason of the vapours rising from the Baths the aire of Rome is at this day vnwholsome The Romans drinke raine water and the troubled waters of Tyber kept in Cesternes and they bragge that it is proper to the water or Tyber the longer it is kept to grow more pure Surely strangers doe not like that water howsoeuer the Romans making a vertue of necessity doe say that it was onely made good to drinke at Rome and no where els by the blessing of Pope Gregory the Great Now being to describe the antiquities of Rome I will first set downe out of order the seuen Churches famous for the indulgences of Popes which they say were built by the Emperour Constantine the Great Then I will set downe the rest in due order as they are seated And because I finished in hast the view of Rome in foure daies I will distinguish the Antiquities into foure daies iournies The first day being to visit these seuen Churches by reason of their distance and the hast we made I and my consorts hired each of vs a mule each man for two poli and we neuer found our errour till the euening when we demanding the way of a man of meane sort he replied thus with some anger What doe you ride to heauen and we poore wretches goe on foote without shooes to visit these holy Churches By this we found our errour and were glad that we had passed that day without further danger In generall these Churches are bare on the Inside without any pictures except some few about the Altars This day we first rode to the chiefe Church A dt S. Giouanni Laterano seated vpon Mount Celius and built by Constantine the Great in his Pallace and it hath a stately Font in which that Emperour was baptized and in the Church there be foure most faire pillars of brasse The Church is sustained by foure rowes of bricke pillars and there hang certaine banners taken from the French and neere the doore the Popes Sergius the fourth and Siluester the second are buried in low monuments In the Church yard are old sepulchers and little pillars of marble Neere to this Church lie those holy staires whereof I spake in my iourney from Rome to Naples when our Italian consorts went to pray for a happy iourney kneeling without the grates But they that will haue the grates opened to pray there vse to creepe vpon their knees from staire to staire and vpon each staire to say a pater noster and Aue Maria. These staires are twenty six in number diuided into three rowes and they be of marble vulgarly called Scale Sante and were brought from the house of Pilate in Hierusalem It is not safe for him to inquire after relikes who will not worship them yet to satisfie the curious I will set downe the chiefe by beare-say Here they shew a tooth of Saint Peter a Cup in which Saint Iohn dranke poyson at the command of Demitian and had no hurt The cloth with which Christ dried his Disciples feet the heads of Peter and Paul the rodde of Aaron the Arke of the couenant the table at which Christ supped three marble gates of Pilates house the Image of Christ being twelue yeeres old with the like Part of these they say were brought from Hierusalem by the Emperour Titus yet he was no Christian nor like to regard the monuments of Christ. One Chappell of this Church is called Sanctum Sanctorum and is thought to haue beene the Chamber of Constantine neither may any woman enter it To conclude the place is shewed here in which many counsels haue beene held and the Popes long dwelt here before the Pallace in the Vaticane was built The Church of B Saint Peter in the Mount Vaticano ioines to the Popes Pallace they say it was built by Constantine the Great The Popes haue giuen full remission of sinnes to them that pray here vpon certaine daies and like remission
suddenly he changed his minde for feare of a great Rhume wherewith he was troubled or being discouraged with the difficulty of the iourney and would needs returne to Emden with purpose if hee were to be belieued to returne the next Spring to some place neere Ierusalem in an English ship which he thought more commodious He professed that he had put much money out vpon his returne and since hee was old and very sickly and after so long a iourney and so much money spent would needes returne home I cannot thinke that he euer vndertooke this iourney againe Many Papists thinke they must haue the Popes Licence to goe this iourney and Villamont a French Gentlemen writes that otherwise they incurre the censure of the Church and affirmes that the Pope writ vnder his licence these words Fiat quod petitar that is let that be granted which is craued and vnder the remission of his sinnes Fiat Faelix that is Let him be made happy And he addes that he was forced to take as much paines and to spend as much and to vse as much helpe of the Popes Officers for the obtaining of these two sutes as if he had beene a suter for a Bishoppricke But I know many Papists that haue gone from Venice to Hierusalem who either cared not for this licence or neuer thought vpon it and how soeuer it may giue some credulous men hope of fuller indulgence or merit surely it will serue them for no other vse Among our consorts I neuer heard any mention thereof neither did the Friars at Ierusalem inquire after it When I first began to thinke of vndertaking this iourney it was told me that each Ascension day a Venetian gally was set forth to carry Pilgrimes to Ierusalem But it seemes that this custome is growne out of vse since few are found in these daies who vndertake this iourney in regard of the Turkes imposing great exactions and doing foule iniuries to them For the very Friars which euery third yeere are sent into those parts to doe diuine duties to the Papist Merchants there abiding the Friars formerly sent being recalled vse to passe in no other then common Merchants ships In the end of March we had the opportunity of a ship passing into Asia which at that time of the yeere is not rare This ship was called the lesse Lyon and the Master whom the Italians cal Patrono was Constantine Coluri a Grecian as most part of the Marriners are Greekes the Italians abhorring from being sea men Concerning diet some agreed with the Steward of the ship called Ilscalco and they paid by the moneth foure siluer crownes each crowne at seuen lyres and I marked their Table was poorely scrued For our part we agreed with the Master himselfe who for seuen gold crownes by the month paid by each of vs did curteously admit vs to his Table and gaue vs good diet seruing each man with his knife and spoone and his forke to hold the meat whiles he cuts it for they hold it ill manners that one should touch the meat with his hand and with a glasse or cup to drinke in peculiar to himselfe Hee gaue vs wine mingled with water and fresh bread for two or three daies after we came out of any harbour and otherwise bisket which we made soft by soaking it in wine or water In like sort at first setting forth he gaue vs fresh meates of flesh and after salted meates and vpon fasting dayes he gaue vs egges fishes of diuers kinds dried or pickled sallets sod Rice and pulse of diuers kinds Oyle in stead of butter Nuts fruit Cheese and like things Also we agreed that if our iourney were ended before the moneth expired a rateable proportion of our money should be abated to vs. Each of vs for his passage agreed to pay fiue siluer crownes of Italy And howsoeuer I thinke they would not haue denied vs wine or meat betweene meales if we had beene drie or hungry yet to auoide troubling of them my selfe and my brother carried some flaggons of rich wine some very white bisket some pruines and raisins and like things And to comfort our stomackes in case of weakenesse we carried ginger nutmegs and some like things and for remedies against agues we carried some cooling sirops and some pounds of sugar and some laxatiue medicines Also we carried with vs two chests not onely to lay vp these things but also that we might sleepe and rest vpon them at pleasure and two woollen little mattresses to lie vpon and foure quilts to couer vs and to lay vnder vs which mattresses and quilts we carried after by land or else we should haue beene farre worse lodged in the houses of Turkes besides that many times we lay in the field vnder the starry cannopy In stead of sheetes we vsed linnen breeches which we might change at pleasure Howsoeuer all Nations may vse their owne apparell in Turky yet the clothes of Europe and especially the short clokes are most offensiue to them so as the wearer prouoketh them thereby to doe him iniuries Therefore my selfe and my brother bought each of vs a long coat of as course stuffe as we could find a long gowne of a course and rough frize Our swords daggers and European garments we left in our chests with a Flemmish Merchant lying at Venice to be kept against our returne and howsoeuer he falling banckerout left the City before that time yet our goods were by the publike Officer laid apart and readily deliuered to vs at our returne Whereas we left our swords at Venice know that no Turkes and much lesse Christians carry any Armes except when they goe some iourney and that we were not ignorant that howsoeuer Christians may defend themselues from theeues by the high way yet it was hard to distinguish betweene the Turkes violent extortions with the iniuries of them and the Ianizares by the high waies and flatrobberies by theeues and that whosoeuer should draw a sword or a knife against these men or any Turke scoffing and defpising him should be sure to die an ill death by publike Iustice which notwithstanding I know not how any man carrying Armes could haue the patience to endure Therefore since the Turkes iournying in great troopes were sufficiently armed against theeues and in all euents are vnfaithfull fellow souldiers to a Christian ioining with them excepting the Ianizares who how soeuer they make a shew of feare of theeues that they may seeme better to deserue their wages yet haue seldome or neuer beene assaulted by them For these and other reasons wee left our swords at Venite which reasons it would be tedious to vrge and chose rather vnarmed then armed to suffer iniuries which there cannot be auoided My selfe and my brother Henry who died this yeere in the moneth of Iuly spent foure hundred and eighty pounds sterling in this iourney from England to Ierusalem and thence to Haleppo and in my particular iourney after his death to Constantinople
least namely rather to signe himselfe with the crosse or negligently to make offer as if he dipped his hand or his gloue vpon it as their manner is into the holy water-Box rather then by omitting these common ceremonies to fall into suspition and being called into question either be driuen to denie his Religion vnder his hand writing or be burned with fier Let them stay at home who are so zealous as they will pull the Hostia or Sacrament out of the Priests hand They should doe better to auoide the adoring thereof by slipping out of the way or restraining their curious walkes for inordinate desire of Martyrdome is not approueable for the auoiding whereof and all snares we are bidden ioyne the Serpents wisdome to the Doues simplicity Saint Paul was not so furious for he did not cast downe the Altars in Athens but taking occasion by the Altar which Epimenides erected in the time of a plague to an vnknowne God he preached Christ peaceably vnto them though he were an Apostle and so had greater authoritie then the blind zealous of our time For my part I know no reason why one of the reformed Church may not say his prayers in the Churches of Papists and I know the greater part of the Masse I meane the Diuine Office is good but the chiefe mischiefe is the adoration or communication of the Hostia Ismenius an Ambassadour of the Thebans being willed to adore the Persian King let fall his Ring from his finger and taking it vp made a shew to adore the King yet was not iudged to haue offended against the Freedome of the Greeke Nation The Papists at the tinckling of a little Bell lift vp the consecrated Bread to bee adored for the true body of Christ at which time all that are present fall on their knees and mumble a short prayer and onely the more deuout strike their brests but all Papists beleeue Christ to bee there corporally present No doubt they erre in that thought but the question is of the outward reuerence exhibited how farre that may offend the conscience of the stranger who otherwise knowes the truth of that point and beleeues it The Lutherans though they doe not beleeue transubstantiation yet they beleeue Consubstantiation which is a corporall presence yet I neither reade nor heare any follower of Caluius doctrine who hath positiuely forbidden one of their profession and liuing among Lutherans to communicate in Prayers and Sacraments with them if he may not with his owne and am sure that with common consent they confesse the Lutherans to haue true Sacraments William Perkins a late Writer of singular learning and piety doth reach that the preaching of the Word and the administration of the Sacraments differ not in substance and that the Word preached by Heretickes is the true Word of God as their Sacraments also are true He teacheth that the Pharises though in part hereticks and Apostataes yet by Christs command were to be heard as sitting in the chaire of Moses so men tooke heed of their false doctrine He concludes that the Word hath his power among hereticks Then so haue the Sacraments which himselfe saith doe not differ in substance from the Word Hee teacheth that some of the Leuits were Heretikes and did teach after a sort the breach of the Morall Law and beleeued Iustification by workes and yet that the Circumcision administred by them was true He teacheth that Iudas was an hypocrite and was called a diuell by Christ yet that hee truly preached and baptized From all which points he collecteth that Infants are not to be rebaptised because the Sacraments are true the right forme being vsed which are administred by Papists Lastly hee concludes that howsoeuer the Church of Rome is no true Church yet it hath true Sacraments because in that Church the true Church is though it lie hidden to which these Sacraments onely belong Yet he denies that it followes thereupon that it is lawfull to communicate the Supper of the Lord with Papists I will onely adde one position more of this godly man in another discourse of his namely that in the externall worship of God the particular gestures are not prescribed by the word of God so they be done decently and modestly according to the laudable customes of each Church either standing sitting kneeling or lying prostrate Some may inferre from this discourse and the last positions thereof That the Gods of the Gentiles are Idols to Papists Protestants and to all Men but howsoeuer the Papists Hostia is an Idoll to them who thinke erroniously of it yet of it selfe and to others rightly iudging of it that it is a true Sacrament and so is to haue auereuerence according to the custome of the Church wherein a man doth liue That in like sort a Papist praying before the Images of Christ or of the Apostles doth sinne because he bends his knee to them and thinkes them to be worshipped but that if another abhorring from such idolatry should pray in a chamber or Church where such Pictures are and should kneele before them yet he should not sinne hauing no mind to worship them or kneele to them That God will be worshipped with holinesse not with faction That some honest kind of dissembling Religion within due limits is tollerable yea that the outward gesture and reuerence vsed in the Churches of Papists euen to the Sacrament eleuated is if not lawfull yet not impious For my part God is my witnesse that I abhorre from denying my Faith or my blessed Sauiour in any point of my Faith and would not for a World employ my tongue or pen to giue encouragement to any wickednesse yet not to leaue the consciences of such as soiourne among forraigne Papists altogether vpon the Racke giue me leaue to say That the former positions being granted I cannot but thinke that there is great difference betweene those who superstitiously worship one true God in three Persons which Article of the Trinity cannot be denied to be held by Papists and the Heathen Idolators worshipping imaginary Gods yea very Diuels That we are not tied to write our Faith in our foreheads and thrust our selues into the hands of Inquisitors but may with godly wisdome auoide their snares Yea that I cannot condemne the bare kneeling and praying or outward reuerence in the Churches of Papists as simply impious no other circumstances concurring to aggrauate such actions especially they being done in forraigne parts where no offence is giuen to weake brethren which the Apostle 1 Cor. 8. 13 bids vs auoide but rather the offence of those is auoided who are Christians howsoeuer superstitious And this I am the rather induced to thinke because none of our Teachers haue to my knowledge euer dogmattically forbidden vs to heare a Papists Sermon at which if wee may be present without sinne no doubt we may not without sinne omit the reuerence in our gestures due to the word of God from the Chaire of Moses howsoeuer spoken