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A07834 An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson Gent. First in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres trauell through the tvvelue dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts. The I. part. Containeth a iournall through all the said twelue dominions: shewing particularly the number of miles, the soyle of the country, the situation of cities, the descriptions of them, with all monuments in each place worth the seeing, as also the rates of hiring coaches or horses from place to place, with each daies expences for diet, horse-meate, and the like. The II. part. Containeth the rebellion of Hugh, Earle of Tyrone, and the appeasing thereof: written also in forme of a iournall. The III. part. Containeth a discourse vpon seuerall heads, through all the said seuerall dominions. Moryson, Fynes, 1566-1630. 1617 (1617) STC 18205; ESTC S115249 1,351,375 915

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whom we appoint successours to vs dying without heire Also there were these verses shewing by numerall letters the antiquity of Prage Vniuersity from the yeere 867. though the Colledges there about ruined scarce shew any shadow of this Vniuersity HaeC sChoLm qVo SLV I Das unno est erecta sub auras Ostenait rVbrae LItera picta notae The numerall great letters shew the yeere This vniuersall Schoole was founded here In the Church of the Emperours Castle these things are to be seene A faire Chappell named after the Emperours sister married to the French King and crowned Queene of the French Another Chappell belonging to the Barons called Popelij the greatest family of the Kingdome next to the Baron of Rosenberg which Chappell is proper to them for buriall and is dedicated to S t Andrew the Apostle In the Emperours Church is a Monument of Rodolphus the second then liuing Emperour built of white marble and compassed with grates of iron In the same place lie buried Charles the fourth in the yeere 1378. Wenceslaus in the yeere 1419. Ladislaus in the yeere 1459. Ferdinand the fourth in the yeere 1564. Maximillian the second in the yeere 1577. all being Arch-dukes of Austria and Emperours and George Pogiebrachius a Bohemian and King of Bohemia To all these is one Monument erected and that of small beauty In the same Church is the Monument of a Bishop who being the Queenes Confessour was cast into Molda because he would not reueale her confession to her husband Wenceslaus They doe so reuerence the Monument of this Bishop since made a Saint by the Pope as they thinke he shall die with shame that passeth by it without reuerence In Old Prage towards the South and vpon the East side of Molda there is an old Pallace where they shew a trap-doore by which the Queene was wont to slide downe into a Bath where shee vsed to satisfie her vnlawfull lust In the same place is grauen the leape of a horse no lesse wonderfull then Byards fabulous leape The House of Kelley a famous English Alcumist was of old a Sanctuary and built for an order of Friers vpon the gate whereof these verses are written Has aedes veterum fauor clementia Regum Omnibus exemptas Legibus esse dedit Audeat ergò iugum nemo his seruile minari Quos hic cum Vrabsky curat alitque Deus This house through old Kings Clemency Free from all Lawes no threats respects Dare not fright them with slauery Whom vnder God Vrabsky protects In the Senate house the City Armes are painted being a Castle with three Towers ore and two Lions argent Langed gules are the supporters and these Verses are written vpon the Armes Qui dedit haec veteri turrita insignia Pragae Omina venturae sortis amica dedit Mole sua vt celsae transcendunt moenia Turres Sic famum superas inclita Praga tuam Who so these towred Armes to old Prage gaue Gaue lucky signes of future happinesse For as the Towers ore top the walles most braue So Prage thou doest surpasse thy fame no lesse Not farre from Prage they say that the Crowne of the Kingdome is laid vp in Karlsteine Castle At Prage in Bethlem Church they shew a Pulpit in which Iohn Hus vsed to preach at the first reformation of Religion I liued at Prage some two moneths and being to depart from thence I would haue gone to Vienna the famous Fort against the Turkes but my desire to see Nurnberg and Augspurg so preuailed as I left that iourney which by chance happened better then I imagined for being called backe into the Low Countries as heereafter I shall relate I passed thence through Poland into Italy because France was shut vp by the ciuill warres and I euer shunned to goe twice one way and so had the opportunitie more fit then the former to see Vienna Now for their sakes who may passe from Prage to Vienna giue mee leaue to remember that in this way their is a Village called Chassel some nine miles from Prage where the famous Captaine of the Bohemians called Ziska lies buried who did lead the Hussites valiantly and being ready to die wished them to make a Drumme of his skinne ominating that the sound thereof would bee so terrible to the enemies as they would runne away such confidence had be in Armes as being dead he thought to terrifie his enemies In the beginning of the yeere 1592. I tooke my iourney from Prage to Nurnberg being sixe daies iourney The first day after dinner we went foure miles partly through rocky Mountaines partly through a fruitfull corne plaine and lodged at Berawn where a loafe of bread worth two third parts of a Creitzer was as big as a threepenny loafe in England by reason of the abundance of corne in that Country And heere each man paid for his supper fourteene Creitzers This Citie belongs to the family of the Poples The second day wee went foure miles to Zudermont all through Mountaines and Groues and two great Woods yet reasonably fruitfull in Corne and by the way we saw the City Bodly and the City Spil the fairest of that Kingdome next to Prage both belonging to the Emperour and two Castles belonging to the Barons Popeles and heere each man dined for sixteene Creitzers After dinner we went two miles to Pilsen halfe the way through Woods where is a little City Ruchtsan and halfe through Hils and Plaines fruitfull in Corne almost the whole Countrey of Bohemta being hilly and rich ground for Pasture and Corne and here we supped each man for twenty three Creitzers The third day wee went three miles to Kladen through pleasant Hils of Groues pasture and corne where each man dined for eighteene Creitzers After dinner we went three miles to Frawenberg through high Mountaines and great Woods hauing no great store of corne in all which territory the Cities and Villages acknowledge the Emperour for their supreme Lord as he is King of Bohemia For this Kingdome is not diuided as others be into Prouinces and Countries but into Noble-mens Territories Here we paied each man eight Creitzers for our supper and twelue for wine The fourth day wee went a mile and a halfe to a little riuer diuiding Bohemia or Boemerland from Germany through rocky Mountaines and many Woods of tall Fir trees fit to make Masts for Ships Then wee entred a Countrey belonging to that Elector Palatine of the Rheine which Elector is called vulgarly the Phaltz-graue and we came within halfe a mile to Weithawsan where each man dined for eighteene Creitzers After dinner we went two miles in the Phaltzgraues Countrey through woody Mountaines and one mile in the Landgraue of Leytenberg his Countrey through fruitfull corne fields and lodged at Shenhutton where each man paied six Creitzers for his supper and thirteene for wine For in these parts they drinke no beere as before but wine and that at a lower price then other where whether it bee natiue or
plaine of inclosed pastures Entering the City we passed the brooke Limachus by a bridge the Suburbs are built vpon the ascent of a Mountaine and the City on the top of it where there is a Castle vpon a Rocke of old very strong but now ruinated on the North side descending into a valley by the brooke on the right hand or vpon the East side within a musket shot lie the Baths which are famous for medicine and are in number thirty seated on each side the Brooke which diuideth them into Bethora the great and the little In the great diuers Bathes are contained vnder one roofe of a faire house and without the gate are two common to the poore These waters are so strong of brimstone as the very smoake warmeth them that come neere and the waters burne those that touch them Of these one is called the Marques Bath and is so hot as it will scald off the haire of a Hogge many hauing no disease but that of loue how soeuer they faine sickenesse of body come hither for remedy and many times find it Weomen come hither as richly attired as if they came to a marriage for Men Weomen Monkes and Nunnes sit all together in the same water parted with boords but so as they may mutually speake and touch and it is a rule here to shun all sadnes neither is any iealousie admitted for a naked touch The waters are so cleere as a penny may be seene in the bottome and because melancholy must be auoided they recreate themselues with many sports while they sit in the water namely at cards and with casting vp and catching little stones to which purpose they haue a little table swimming vpon the water vpon which sometimes they doe likewise eate These Bathes are very good for Weomen that are barren They are also good for a cold braine and a stomacke charged with rhume but are hurtfull for hot and dry complexions and in that respect they are held better for Weomen then Men. The Innes were wont to pay tribute to the three Cantons of Baden Brucke and Bazell but now Baden alone makes great profit of them by the great concourse of sickely persons and the Parliaments of the Cantons commonly held there I paid for my diet six Batzen a meale From hence I hired a Horse at the same rate as before and passing through woody Mountaines came in three houres riding to the City Brucke By the way I passed the Brooke Russe which runneth from Lucerna into these parts and the boate was drawne by a cable running vpon a wheele by reason of the waters swift course where I paide for my passage sixe creitzers and when I came neere Bruck I passed the Brooke Ara by a bridge paying one creitzer for tribute and here I paid fiue batzen a meale From hence hiring a horse as before I rode in two houres space to Hornsea through steepe Mountaines and a wood of Oake by the way lies Kingsfeld that is Kingly field a Monastery so called because Widowe Queenes and Kings forsaking their Scepters and inferiour Princes were wont of old to enter into this place for the solitary profession of Religion In the same Cloyster of old liued the Friars of Saint Francis order in the building on the right hand as you come in and the Nunnes of Saint Clara on the left hand and both came to the same Chappell the Friars to the body of the Church and the Nunnes to close galleries aboue looking out and hearing through grates The Emperour Albertus being killed by his Nephew in the yeere 1380. at Santbacke three miles distant this Monastery was built for his memory though his bones were buried at Spire The reuenewes of this monastery grew in time to be yeerly forty thousand Guldens which are now appropriated to the common treasure of the Sweitzer Cantons Leopold Duke of Austria lies here buried Ferdinand of Insprucke one of the Archdukes of Austria is Lord of Hornesea all the rest of the territories from Schafhusen to this place belonging to the Cantons of Sweitzerland and here I paid sixe batzen a meale Hence I hired a horse as before and rode in fiue houres to Rheinefeld through fruitfull hils of corne hauing on all sides wooddy Mountaines in sight Here againe I passed the Rheine and paid two raps for my horse and my selfe foot-men paying but one The Rheine passeth by with a violent course and washeth the Towne on the East side Here I paid sixe Batzen a meale Hence hiring a Horse as before I rode in two houres space to Bazell through a faire plaine of corne and pasture lying vpon the Rheine hauing on all sides woody Mountaines in sight and neere the City were most pleasant fields planted with vines to the which fields the territory of the said Arch-duke extendeth on the East side of the Rheine I entered by little Bazell seated in a plaine on the East side of Rheine and so passed by a bridge of wood into the greater Bazell seated vpon pleasant hils on the West side of Rheine This City of old was one of the imperiall free Cities but now is ioined to the Cantons of Sweitzerland and was built in the yeere 3 2 hauing the name of a Basiliske slaine by a Knight couered with cristall or of the word Pasell which in Dutch signifies a beaten path or of the greeke word 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as a kingly City The lesse Bazell was of old built by an Arch-duke of Austria in preiudice of the greater and after being sold to it for thirty thousand guldens was incorporated therevnto The greater hath many caues vnder the hils and suffered a great earth-quake in the yeere 1346 at which time the Pallace neere the Cathedrall Church fell into the Rheine and another Earth-quake in the yeere 1356. wherein 180. persons were killed all the people flying out of the Towne Eugenius the Pope held a Councell in this City the yeere 1431. The Bridge of wood ioyning the little and great City diuided by the Rheine is broad enough for two carts to passe at once and towards little Bazell six Arches are of stone but towards great Bazell where the Rheine tunneth most swiftly eight Arches are built of wood that they may be more easily repaired and vpon any warre from Germany more readily broken downe This City is of the forme of an half Moone I meane the great City reckoning the lesse for a Suburbe and being seated upon diuers hils on the West side of the Rheine imbraceth betweene the two hornes the lesser City seated in a plaine on the East side of Rheine On the West side of the greater the Emperor Rodulphus of Habspurg besieged the City and on this side something towards the North within the walles is a most pleasant greene for walking called peter platz In this place is the Armory of the City and the tribunal of Iustice and some faire houses of priuate men and a most pleasant shade of trees among
Countrey Graced with Titles and Magistracy With his Learning he made Venice happy These things I say are in these Churches most remarkeable The second sextary on this side the channell vulgarly I l sestiero di Castello hath the name of the Castle Oliuolo which seated towards the sea may seeme to be diuided from the Citie yet it is ioyned thereto by a long bridge Of old it was a City by it selfe and therefore the Dukes Throne being established in the Iland Realto the Bishops seat was made here who is inuested by the Duke and was consecrated by the Patriarke of Grado till that being extinguished this was raised to the dignity of a Patriarke in the yeere 1450. In the Cathedrall Church of Saint Peter this is written vpon the Chappell in Latine Who ere thou be that approachest worship Within these grates of Iron the crosse is inclosed that is adorned with three haires of the beard of Christ with a naile the cup in which he drunke to his Disciples and with a peece of the true Crosse c. This Patriarcall seat hath two old pulpits of marble the monuments of the Bishops and Patriarkes which with the adioining Pallace of the Patriarkes are the most remarkeable things thereof In the Church of Iohn Baptist in Bragola many curious pictures the sepulcher of that Saint guilded ouer the Image of Christ the pictures of the lesse Altar especially that of Christ baptised that of Saint Hellen that of Christs resurrection and the liuely picture of Christ sitting with his Apostles at his last supper In the Church of Saint Mary Formosa this inscription is read Vincentius Capellus most skilful in Nauigation and Prefect of the Gallies nolesse praised of old who receiued signes of honour from Henry the seuenth King of Britany c. There vpon the great and very faire Altar the Images of the foure Euangelists and vpon the top that of Christs resurrection and of two Angels In the Church Saint Marina the statua on horsebacke erected by the Senate to Tadeo della volpe of Imola and the great Altar with the pillars of prophry In the Church of Saint Leone the Images of Saint Ierome of Christ at supper with his Disciples of Iohn the Euangelist and Saint Michaell all painted by the hands of most skilfull workemen In the Church of Saint Anthony foure most faire Altars in the second whereof the Image of Christ and in the third rich with excellent pillars the History of ten thousand Martyres painted and in the fourth the espousals of the blessed Virgin areal painted with singular Art and a foot statua erected by the Senate to Victor Pisanus In the Church of Saint Dominicke the library and pictures of the Altars In the Church of Saint Francis di Paola many things giuen vpon vow and hung vpon the wals In that of Saint Francis della vigna a very faire and stately Church the Altar of the Chappell belonging to the Family Grimani and the pictures brasen images of the same and in the Chappell of the Family Dandoli the picture of Saint Laurence martyred and in the Chappell of the Iustiniani being very rich the Images of the foure Euangelists and twelue Prophets In the Chappell of our Lady the monument of Marke Anthony Morosini Knight and Procurator famous in the warre which the French King Lewis the twelth made in Lombardy and thrice Ambassador from the State also the famous library of this monastery and the bels which they say were brought out of England after Queene Maries death In the Church of the Saints Iohn and Paul being one of the chiefe Churches the situation the architecture the pictures and the monuments of sixteene Dukes and another of Marke Anthony Bragadini who hauing defended the Iland Cyprus from the Turkes when they tooke it had his skinne fleed off by the command of the tyrant against his faith in the yeere 1571. Also three horsemens statuaes one to Leonardo de Prato Knight of Rhodes another to Nichola Orsino Count of Pitiglia both erected in the Church the third for greater honour erected in the market place to Bartholmeo Coleoni of Bergamo for his good seruice to the State in their Warres all three crected by the Senate Also a foot statua erected by the Senate to Deunys Naldo a most valiant Commander of their foote and the stately sepulcher of Iames de Cauallis and the Chappell of the Rossary magnificall in the architecture in rare marbles in the art of engrauers and excellent pictures especially that of Christ crucified In the Church of Saint Mary delle Virgini a Cloyster of Nunnes built by the Dukes and belonging to them by speciall right two marble sepulchers In the Church Saint Gioseppe the admirable monument of the Germani with admirable Images engrauen of the Duke Grimani created and his Dutchesse Morosini crowned and the like curiously wrought also the Image of Christ transfigured and another of Christ buried are the most remarkeable things And whereas the grauen images of this Church be of rare beauty they say that the chiefe of them were brought out of England after the death of Queene Mary In the Church of Saint Fustina a parish Church and yet the chiefe cloyster of Nunnes twice rebuilt by the family Morosini two curious statuaes of marble of Paros In the Church of the Holy sepulcher being a cloyster of Nunnes the sepulcher of Christ like that at Ierusalem of ophites and like stones In Saint Zachary a cloyster of Nunnes the pall of the Virgin painted another like it in the chappell the sepulcher or Altar vnder which the said Saint father to Iohn Baptist is laid and at the backe of the great Altar three sepulchers of Porphry and Ophyts the stones of the great Altar and the stately architecture of the Church are the things most remarkeable and the same cloyster hath great reuenues In generall vnderstand that the Churches are for the most part built of bricke and some few of free stone though they be so couered with Marbles and like stones as the bricke or free stone is scarce seene in the inside In the Priory of S t Iohn belonging of old to the Templary Knights now to the Knights of Rhodes or Malta it is remarkeable that the reuenues thereof be great and that the Priory is giuen by the Pope which Paul the third gaue to the Cardinall Saint Angelo his nephew for so they call their bastards whom Alexander the Cardinall of Farness succeeded yet not as Cardinall but as Knight of Malta and after him the Pope gaue it to the Cardinall Ascanio Colonna And the most remarkable things in the Church are the pall of the great Altar the supper of our Lord painted the picture of Christ speaking with the woman of Samaria and that of Herods banquet when he gaue Iohn Baptists head to Herodia The Greeke Church belongs to this sextary built in Rio di San ' Lorenzo The almes-house Saint Lazero feeds foure hundred or fiue hundred poore people
with the rich Porphery and Ophyte stones and the Marble Images of Saint Marke and Saint Iohn the Euangelist In the Church of Saint Andrew the fairest of this sextary and a cloyster of Nunnes the pictures of Christ crucified and of his supper with his Apostles and the most faire Altars of the Virgin Saint Anthony and Saint Nicholas In the Church of Saint George the greater giuing name to the Iland in which it is seated ouer against the market place of Saint Marke and the chiefe Church next that of Saint Marke the pall of the great Altar and the brasen Images two brasen Images of the Organs the seats of the wal-nut tree wonderfully ingrauen another Altar built by Vincent Morosini the Altar of Saint Stephen the first Martyr the Altar of the blessed Virgin and her Image the Altar of Saint Lutia with her Image and the wonderfull crucifix of another Altar In the Church of Saint Mary delle gratie the infinite gifts hung vp there vpon vowes In the Church of the Holy Ghost the Pall of the great Altar and the marble stones and pillars and the brasen candlestickes and a skreene of brasse guilded and the pictures of Saint Markes Altar the candlesticke of the great chappel curiously carued the rare Images and arched roofe of the Altar of the Cratch being all the worke of the famous Painter Titiano whose rare image also the Friars haue and in the publike refectory of the Friars the admirable pictures of the resurrection of Sampson and especially of Christ supping with his Apostles In the monastery of Saint Hellen giuing name to the Iland and founded by Alexander Boromeo and being one of the fairest in the City a crosse of inestimable value In the Church of Saint Andrew della Certosa the monument of Austine Barbadici who hartening the confederates to fight was chiefe cause of the victory against the Turkes by sea in the yeere 1571. and while he liued by faire and rough tearmes kept the league vnbroken which presently vpon his death was dissolued In the Church of Saint Nicholas del Liro the sepulcher of Duke Dominicke Contarini rich with porphery and ophyte stones and a well of fresh water lying very neere the sea and hauing so full a spring as it serueth all the shippes and gallies The almes-house of Saint Lazerus is built for lepers The old Lazereto is a pest-house where the Prior and Physitians haue yeerely fee to attend the sicke Not farre from that is the new Lazareto whither they are sent who are suspected to haue the plague but as soone as they begin to be sicke they are sent thence to the old Lazareto and hither all suspected men are sent to try their health which if they keepe for forty daies then they are set free These things are in this sextary most remarkeable The sixth sextary and the third and last beyond the channell is of the forme of the Iland called Il sestiero di dorso duro In the Church of the Saints Geruaso and Protese the grauen Images and pictures in the chappell of the holy sacrament In the cloyster of Saint Agnes the Prioresse bringeth vp six Virgins which being of ripe yeeres are either married or made Nunnes and sixe more of good families sent thither in their place In the Church of Saint Gregory there is a second monument erected to Anthony Bragadini traiterously slaine by the Turkes at the taking of Cyprus The Iland Giudecca belongs to this sextary the chiefe Church whereof is Saint Eufemia it hauing nine other Churches The Church of the Iesuites is called Saint Mary of Humblenes and it hath pictured with great art the pals of the passion of Christ of the Apostles Peter and Paul of Christ circumcised and of Saint Francis and the great Altar is one of the fairest in the City In the Church Carmini a singular paire of Organs the Images of the blessed virgins foure Euangelists and Christ crucified and vpon the altar of Christ crucified two stones shining like christall which are esteemed for iewels In the Church of Saint Mary of Charity the rich chappell of San Saluadore In the most faire Church of the Capuchine Friars seated in the Iland Giudecca the images of brasse and the faire screene of the great Altar In the most faire Church of Saint Mary the greater being a Nunnery the rare pictures of the greater chappell In the Church of the holy crosse Della Giudecca the monument of the Cardinall Francis Morosini sent Ambassador to the Turke and Nuncio to Pope Sixtus the fifth in the French Court and here the rest of his Family vse to be buried The Monastery of the conuerted is for whores repenting Another is built for Orphan Virgins the Church whereof hath rich screenes of marble with brasse images and in the same liue some two hundred and fifty Virgins of almes and by the worke of their hands which comming to ripe yeeres are either married or made Nunnes These things are in this sextary most remarkeable The Venetians haue six fraternities or great schooles such as be also at Rome and the Gentlemen and Citizens all giue their names to one of them as in England at London the Citizens haue companies into which the King Queene and Nobles many times vouchsafe to be admitted And in these schooles as it were in Vniuersities they vse to haue exercises of religion The first of them is called Saint Mary of Charity after the rule whereof the rest are framed and the great Guardian thereof is chosen yeerly and weares a skarlet gowne with large sleeues which they call Ducall sleeues and he hath the title of Magnifito by priuiledge These schooles giue dowries yeerely to 1500. Virgins and distribute among the poore much money meale and clothes for besides many gifts by last testaments daily giuen to those vses each of the schooles hath some fiue or sixe thousand duckets in yeerely reuenew and they are gouerned like common wealthes In the said schoole the Images of the Apostles and the pictures especially one of the blessed Virgin and another of the foure Doctors of the Church are very faire In the schoole of Saint Iohn the Euangelist the passion of Christ is wonderfully figured and Phillip the second King of Spaine and his sonne Ferdinand and Don Iohn of Austria and other Princes haue beene of this fraternity The third is of mercy The fourth of Saint Marke The fifth of Saint Rocco passing the rest in ceremonies pompe and number of brethren The sixth is of Saint Theodore and each of these hath his Church and Pallace and precious monuments and these are subiect to the counsell of ten for there be many lesse schooles each art hauing his schoole and these are subiect to the old Iustice and out of them when need is souldiers are pressed It remaines to adde something of the magnificall building of this City And in the first place the market place of Saint Marke is paued with bricke and it consists of foure market
That he inquired to Tyrone and Odonnel seeming to distaste their being so farre off and the way to them being dangerous and his owne want of horses and therefore prayed this Gentleman to certifie Tirrell and the Lord of Leytrim that hee expected Tyrone with horses and beeues which hee praied them to supply in the meane time both sending him notice before they came adding that himselfe had Bread Rice Pease and Wine for eighteene moneths and store of treasure And that he inquired much after the strength of Corke and the Queenes new Fort there Lastly he aduertised that the ships returned were foureteene of them six the Kings owne of one thousand run the least in which was the Admirall Generall Saint liage and the great Admirall of Castill Don Diego de Bruxero That the twelue remaining were smaller and embarged or arctied to serue the King whereof some were Irish. That the ships at Baltemore had 700 men That by his view there were 3000 in Kinsale royally prouided of all prouisions for war hauing many saddles for horses and that vpon Tyrones expected comming they intended to take the field The thirteenth it was resolued we should presently take the field though wee had not as yet any prouisions fit for that purpose but that day and the two dayes following we could not stirre from Corke by reason of extreame raine and foule weather Neither artillery munitiō nor victuals were yet come from Dublin yet it was thought fitter thus vnprouided to take the field then by discouery of our wants to giue the Irish opportunitie and courage to ioyne with the Spaniard CHAP. II. Of the besieging of the Spaniards at Kinsale with the deliuery of the Towne to the Lord Deputy and their returne into Spaine in the same yeere 1601. THe 16 day of October his Lordship with the Army rose from Corke and encamped fiue miles short of Kinsale at a place called Owny Buoy The 17 the army rose marching towards Kinsale encamped within half a mile of the towne vnder a hill called Knock Robin where some few shot of the Spaniards offered to disturbe our sitting downe but were soone beaten home Wee had at that time scarce so much Powder as would serue for a good dayes fight neither had wee any competent number of tooles so as wee could not intrench our selues for these prouisions were not yet come from Dublin That day Captain Morgan came out of England with one of the Queenes ships and our Master Gunner came from Waterford aduertising that some ships of prouisions sent from Dublin were come to that Port where they were enforced to stay by a contrary wind being Southerly The eighteenth the Army lay still and we viewed the fittest places to incampe neere the Towne but our Artillerie being not come we remoued not And that night the Spaniards made a salley much greater then the former to disturbe our Campe but our men soone repelled them without any losse to vs. The ninteenth wee lay still expecting prouisions and that day our men sent to view the ground had some slight skirmishes with the enemy and Deu Iean after professed that hee neuer saw any come more willingly to the sword then our men did That night Sir Iohn Barkeley was appointed to giue Alarum to the Towne who did beate the Spanish guardes set without the Towne into their trenches The next night after some sixteene hundred Spaniards came to the top of the hill vnder which wee lay either with purpose to cut off some of the scouts or to attempt some thing on the Campe But Sir Iohn Barkeley lying with a party of ours not exceeding three hundred discouered them and skirmishing with them killed some dead in the place tooke some Armes and other spoyle and hurt diuers and did beate them backe to the Towne without the losse of any one of our men and onely three hurt The one and twentieth Cormock Mac Dermot an Irish man chiefe of a Countrie called Ministerie came with the rising out or souldiers of his Countrie to shew them to the Lord Deputy who to the end the Spaniards might see the meere Irish serued on our side commanded them at their returne to passe by the Spanish trenches made without the Towne on the top of the hil but lodged strong parties out of the enemies fight to second them The Irish at first went on wel and did beat the Spanish guards from their ground but according to their custome suddenly fell off and so left one of the Lord Presidents horsemen ingaged who had charged two Spaniards but Sir William Godolphin commanding the Lord Deputies troope when he saw him in danger and vnhorsed did charge one way vpon their grosse and Captaine Henry Barkley Cornet of the same troope charged another way at the same instant and droue their shot into the trenches and so rescued the horseman with his horse comming off with one man hurt and onely one horse killed from the great numbers of Spanish shot whereof foure were left dead in the place diuers carried off dead into the Towne and many hurt The two and twentieth day Captaine Button arriued at Corke with the Queenes Pinnis called the Moone which wafted other ships bringing victuals and munition from Dublyn and the same day came to the Campe aduertising that the same shippes were come from Waterford towards Corke That night his Lordship sent him backe to bring his ship about to Kinsale Harbour and to take with him Captaine Wards shippe from Oyster Hauen where it lay to guard the victuall and munition we brought with vs. These two ships were commanded to annoy the Castle of Rincoran seated close vpon the harbour of Kinsale and possessed by the Spaniard but after they had spent many shot vpon the Castle without any great effect because their Ordinance was small they lay still to keepe the Harbour that neither the Castle nor the Towne might be releeued by water which was the chiefe end of their comming The three twentith the Dublyn shipping arriued at Corke were directed to come presently to Oyster Hauen where we might vnlade the Artillery which could not be brought by land and other prouisions for the present vse of the Army The foure and twenty day it was resolued we should rise and incampe close by the Towne but the shipping being not come about with the artillery and other necessaries that day was spent in dispatching for England And by night Captaine Blany and Captaine Flower were sent out to lie with fiue hundred foote to intertaine the Spaniards which were drawne out of the Towne but they came no further and so our men returned This day his Lordship and the Counsell wrote to the Lords in England this following letter IT may please your Lordships since our last dispatch from Corke which bare date the fourth of this present moneth we spent some time there expecting the comming of the old Companies out of the Pale and Northerne parts and hoping to be supplied
forraine yet no man must wonder that wee spent more in wine then meat all my consorts being Dutch-men The fifth day wee went in the Phaltzgraues Countrey foure miles to Amberg through fruitfull Hils of corne and some few Woods and this City belongs to the Phaltzgraue being seated in the vpper Palatinate After dinner we went in the Marquesse of Anspach his Country who is also called the Burggaue of Nurnberg two miles to Hous-coate a Village where each man paid six Batzen for his supper The sixt day we went three miles passing by Erspruck a Citie subject to the Nurnbergers and many villages belonging to diuets Lords and a fort in the mid way called Schwang belonging to seuenty two Lords and being then by course in the Phaltzgraues keeping for all these Lords keepe the same by course for three yeeres The first and greater part of the way was through fruitfull Hils of corne the rest through sandy pastures and a Wood of a miles length Wee dined at a poore Village each man for six Batzen After dinner we went two miles to Nurnberg through sandy corne fields and passed by many houses and gardens of the Citizens whether they vse to come out of the City sometimes to recreate themselues The Wood which we passed in the morning lay on our left hand towards the South as wee entred the Citie on the east side and not farre from the City turneth itselfe and runneth farther towards the South The City of Nurnberg seated in a barren sandy ground yet is very rich by the Citizens industry For as commonly few be rich in a fertile Countrey either because hauing enough for food they are giuen to idlenesse or because abundance makes them prodigall so the Nurnbergers planted in a barren soyle by their subtile inuentions of Manuall workes and cunning Art draw the riches of all Countries to them The Riuer Bengetts runnes by the Citie but is not Nauigable nor beareth any the least boats This Riuer runnes from the East where wee entred the Towne towards the gate Lauff-thore and so compasseth the suburbs towards the South where diuiding into two beds it entreth the City and comming out againe at the West washeth the Citie walles On the East side the Margraues of Brandeburg besieged the City at the command of Charles the fifth therefore on this and the South side besides a dry ditch and two stone walles compassing the whole City diuers Bulwarkes are built vpon the wall On all sides as you come vp to the City the earth riseth and almost at euery gate there is a long suburbe Vpon the walles there be many Towers distant one from the other some 1000 ordinary walking paces and the vvhole circuit of the City is lesse then a German mile Among the said Towers three are stronger then the rest and furnished with Artillery The first is on the East side neere the gate Lauff-thore The second is on the South side vnder the gate Fraw-thore and on the same side is the gate Spittle-thore The third is on the North side vnder the gate New-thore and on the same side is another gate called Burk-thore There is a Castle called Burk which by Nero the Emperour was of his name called Noricum Castrum It is certaine that this Castle stood in the time of Charles the Great and the City being of it selfe not ancient is thought to haue had his name of this Castles old Latine name On the VVest side is the gate Haller-thore so called of him that caused it to be built where is a pleasant walke thicke shadowed with trees where the Citizens vse to walke for pleasure The City is absolute of it selfe being one of the free Cities of the Empire and mee thinks the chief or at least second to Augsburg surely it may perhaps yield to Augsburg in treasure and riches of the City but it must be preferred for the building whichis all of free stone sixe or seuen roofes high I speake of the whole City of Augsburg for one street thereof is most beautifull and some Pallaces there are fit for Princes of which kind Nurnberg hath none The Tower which I said was of old called Noricum Castrum hangs ouer the City which being seated in a plaine hath no mounts neere it and is of a round forme The said Tower is compassed with a drie ditch very deepe vpon the wall whereof they shaw a Spaniards blood there sprinkled who vndertooke to betray the Castle to Charles the fifth as also the print of a Horses feete in memory of a wonderfull leape from the Castle side to the other side of the bridge The Senate House lies vnder the side of this Castle or Tower as it were vnder the shield of Aiax and vnder the same house and vnder the earth be the publike prisons The Armory is built on the South side of the Towne and is opened to no man without consent of the Senate which in all other Cities of Germany is readily shewed to strangers And in that Armory by the Citizens report they haue 400. great peeces of Artillery with great store of all Munitions The City hath also a Granary which is so large as diuers yeeres prouision for corne may be laid vp therein It hath teri Churches whereof onely foure are vsed for prayers and preaching and in one of them lies buried zebalemus-Zebalemus-King of Denmarke who first conuerted the City to Christian Religion Neere the Church of Saint Laurence is the golden fountaine so called of the beauty and magnificence and it distils water out of twenty leaden pipes Neere the Church called Frawenkirk is another faire Fountaine guilded ouer and compassed with an iron grate It is vnlawful to walke in the night without a torch or a candle and lanthorne In the Innes they giue no beere at the table but diuers kinds of wine and a large diet if not delicate for which euery man paieth sixe batzen a meale and besides for his chamber or lodging which he may haue priuate to himselfe three creitzers by the day In the Almes-houses out of gifts by the last testament of those that die they maintaine great numbers of poore people and in one of them twelue old men apart and in another twelue old men and as many old weomen Whilst I liued at Prage and one night had set vp very late drinking at a feast early in the morning the Sunne beames glancing on my face as I lay in bed I dreamed that a shadow passing by told me that my father was dead at which awaking all in a sweat and affected with this dreame I rose and wrote the day and houre and all circumstances thereof in a paper booke which Booke with many other things I put into a barrel and sent it from Prage to Stode thence to be conuaied into England And now being at Nurnberg a Merchant of a noble family well acquainted with me and my friends arriued there who told me that my Father died some two moneths past I list not
for my doublet and hose eight lites to my laundresse for making a shirt a lire that is twenty sols for washing it two sols and for washing foure handkerchers one sol And this shall suffice for particular expences The City Paduoa was built by Antenor a Troian and the Heneti driuen out of their Countrey ioined themselues to these Troians These with ioint force droue out the Euganei from the fertile Euganean hils neere Paduoa where Hereules left them and these Heneti gaue to their posterity the name of Venetians to whom the Colonies of Tuscany ioined themselues then the French subdued all this Prouince till at last they subiected themselues to the Romans and were made Citizens of Rome The Roman Empire declining the Visigothes vnder Alaricus droue the chiefe Citizens of Paduoa into the lakes of Venice Then Attila King of the Hunnes spoiled Paduoa and the Longobards burnt it which being rebuilt and flourishing vnder the German Emperors Acciolinus vsurped the gouernement thereof in the yeere 1237. But Pope Alexander the fourth helped by the Venetians restored it to liberty in the yeere 1257. In the faction of the Guelphes Gibellines Paduoa then from that time hath bin subiect to many Princes of the Scaligers Cararrians til about the yeere 1402. the Venetians tooke the City which they held to the yeere 1509. when the French King Lewis made them yeeld to the Emperour but the Venetians after two moneths recouered it and to this day it is subiect to them who send a Magistrate called Podesta euery fifteene moneths to gouerne it Some say Paduoa was first called Antenoria as the Heneti gaue the name of Venice to the Countrey till after Antenors death the Heneti called it Paduoa of a City in their Countrey whence they were driuen Others say it hath the name from a Greeke word vpon the flying of Swannes others say it is so called of the riuer Po called in Latine Padus or of the territory lying beyond the Po the Riuer giuing name to the territory and that to the City Before it was destroied by Attila it was seated on the East-side of the Riuer Medoacus but after it was built on the other side in a fenny soyle where now the market place is but since it hath beene inlarged on both sides the water being without the outmost wals seuen miles compasse and of a triangular forme as it seemed to me The first angle is on the North-side where is the Monastery of the Hermites of Saint Augustine and the stately Pallace Areno in which the French King Henry the third was lodged when hee returned from Poland into France The second angle is towards the East where is the gate at which they take water to passe vpon the Riuer Brenta to Venice The third angle is towards the South where is the monastery Santo called of Saint Anthony of Lisbon and the monastery of Saint Iustina And these angles taken away the old City is round On the West-side vpon the wals is built the old Pallace of the old City Paduoa is seated in a sweet plain hauing no trees neere the City Of old the wall was triple and now it is double The inner wall is some three miles in compasse and is very high hauing a walke vpon it round about with pleasant shade of trees where Gentlemen vse to play at the balloone This wall compassed round with the Brent hath foureteene gates with as many bridges of stone The riuer Brent likewise compasseth the outward wall which is about seuen miles compasse and hath six stately gates but this wall is nothing so strong as the other The Riuer Athesis diuides the territory of Paduoa from that of Uerona and the riuer Po diuides it from that of Ferrara Two riuers of old called Medonci enter the City the greater at this day called Brenta falling from the Alpes with the right hand branch runneth to Paduoa and with the left hand branch to Rosta and diuiding againe into two branches one by the dirch Brentella is carried to Paduoa the greater takes the name Bachilio and neere to the wals of Paduoa receiues the waters of Brentella increased with a branch of Brenta These Riuers enter the City and with diuers channels driue many mils compasse the wals and not onely make the fields fertile but serue to carry all commodities abounding here from hence to Venice and to bring from thence such things as they want and besides doe cleanse all filth of the stables and priuies The aire at Paduoa is very healthfull and the building is with arches of stone hanging ouer the streets vnder which they walke dry in the greatest raine but the streetes are thereby made narrow and in the middest are dirty There be fiue market places in the first the Gentlemen and Students meet and walke in the second herbes are sold in the third corne in the fourth wood and in the fifth straw The aforesaid monastery of Saint Anthony is inhabited by Franciscan Friars and is much fairer then any other religious house the Church whereof was of old dedicated to Iuno and after to the Virgin Mary and at last to Saint Anthony The pauement thereof is of marble and the building very stately hauing in the top seuen globes couered with lead and three high towers The Chappell wherein S t Anthony lies is all of marble round about it the miracles are engrauen which they attribute to this Saint at whose feast day they vse to present for great gifts the hallowed girdles of this S t which they tie about their loyns and attribute strange effects thereunto Here is a statua of marble erected to Peter Bembus and in the large yard there is a horse-mans statua of brasse which the Senate of Venice erected to Gatta Melata In the Church of Franciscan Minorites there is a statua erected to Roctha Benello a Physitian sitting in his chaire In the aforesaid monastery of Saint Iustina the order of Saint Benedict was first established and from thence dispersed into Italy and the Church thereof was of old dedicated to Concord and after being made the Bishops Church was endowed with great rents These Monkes haue a blacke habit and in the Church they shew the reliques of the Martyr Saint Iustina of Saint Prosdosimus a Greeke who is said to haue beene Saint Peters Disciple and to haue conuerted Paduoa and to haue baptised Saint Iustina when shee suffered Martyrdome and likewise of Saint Maximus both Bishops and protecting Saints of the City as also of Saint Luke the Euangelist brought by Vrius a Monke from Constantinople but the Venetians say the reliques of Saint Luke are with them Biondus writeth that here was a Church dedicated to Iupiter and the sepulcher of Titus Liuius In the first court yard of this Monastery the incredible miracles of Saint Benedict are painted In the second I found this Epitaph Adoleseens tametsi proper as Hoc te saxum rogat vt se aspicias Deinde quod scriptum est legas
art When you enter the body of the Church there is the great Altar vnder which lies Saint Marke in a chest of brasse decked with Images of siluer guilded and with plates of gold and Images enamelled and with the Image of Christ sitting vpon a stately throne adorned with pillars of most white Marble and many precious stones and curiously engrauen At the backe of this Altar there is another which they call the Altar of the most holy Sacrament made of the best marble with a little doore of brasse decked with carued Images and with foure pillars of Alablaster transparant as Christall and highly esteemed and vpon the same hang euery day two lampes of Copper but at the times of feasts there hang two of pure siluer Moreouer the Organs are said to be the worke of a most skilfull Artificer In the higher gallery compassing the Church is the image of Pope Pelagius vnder which is a place where the holy relikes are kept which Pope Clement the eight gaue to Iohn Delphin Knight one of the Procurators of Saint Marke and Ambassadour at Rome for Venice namely a peece of a bone of Phillip the Apostle a peece of the cheeke-bone and foure teeth of the Martyr Saint Biagius peeces of bones of Saint Bartholmew and Saint Thomas forsooth of Canterbury and of the Apostles Saint Matthew and Saint Marke whose body they say is laid in the foresaid chest and part of the haire of the blessed Virgin and a peece of a finger of the Euangelist Luke and a peece of a ribbe of Saint Peter with many like which they shew to the people to be adored certaine daies in the yeere Aboue the Altar of Saint Clement these verses are written which shew how they worshipped Images in a more modest though superstitious age Nam Deus est quod I mago docet sed non Deus ipse Hane vide as sed mente colas quod cernis in ipsa That which the Image shewes is God it selfe is none See this but God heere seene in mind adore alone Likewise these verses of the same Author be in another place Effigiem Christi qui transis pronus horona Non tamen effigiem sed quod designat adora Esse deum ratione caret cui contulit esse Materiale lapis sicut manus effigiale Nec Deus est naec homo praesens quam cernis Imago Sed Deus est homo quem sacra signat Imago As thou Christs Image passest fall the same before Yet what this Image signifies not it adore No reason that it should be God whose essence stands Materiall of stone formall of workemens hands This Image which thou seest is neither God nor Man But whom it represents he is both God and Man At the entry of the Chancell is the throne of the Dukes made of walnut-tree all carued aboue the head and when the Dukes sit there it was wont to be couered with carnation satten but now it is couered with cloth of gold giuen by the King of Persia. There be two stately pulpits of marble with Histories carued in brasse where they sing the Epistles and Gospels On the left hand by the Altar of Saint Iames is a place where if a man may beleeue it the body of Saint Marke by a creuice suddenly breaking through the marble stone appeared in the yeere 1094. to certaine Priests who had fasted and praied to find the same the memory of the place where it was laied at the building of the Church about 829. being vtterly lost I beleeue that the memory thereof was lost about the yeere 829. when superstition was not yet ripe but that it was found in the yeere 1094. that age being infected with grosse superstition let him that list beleeue They themselues seeme to distrust this miracle while they confesse that the same body was most secretly laid vnder the great Altar and neuer since shewed to any man but once or twice and that after a suspicious manner To the foresaid pulpits another is opposite where the Musitians sing at solemne Feasts and from whence the Dukes newly created are shewed to the people and likewise the holy relikes as they tearme them are shewed twice in the yeere The wals in the Church are so couered with the best marbles as the lime and bricke cannot be seene and these peeces of marble with their spots and brightnes are very beautifull whereof two are held for admirable Monuments which are so ioined as they liuely represent the Image of a man Here Marino Morosini first of all the Dukes hung his Armes vppon the wals whom the other Dukes after him in number forty three haue followed and there hung vp their Armes In the middest of the Church hangs a banner giuen by the Citizens of Verona in token of subiection and two others for the same purpose giuen by the Citizens of Crema and Cremona The Marble pillars setin Caues vnder the Church beare vp the pauement which is made of peeces of the best marble carued and wrought with little stones of checker worke very curiously especially vnder the middle globe of the roofe and neere the great doore And among the rare stones opposite to the singers pulpit they shew one of such naturall spots as it is esteemed a Iewell which by change of colour they say doth shew the change of weather Moreouer they shew certaine Images carued by the direction of the Abbot Iohn Ioachim of old time whereof many shew future euents as that of two cockes carrying a wolfe vpon their backe which they vnderstand to be Lewis the twelfth and Charles the eight French Kings casting Lodouico Sfortia out of his Dukedome and in like sort to omit many other more hidden that of the Lyons fat in the waters and leane vpon land which they vnderstand to be the power of Venice by sea and the weakenes by land Besides they say the same Abbot caused the Images of Saint Dominicke and Saint Francis to be drawne vpon the doore of the Sanctuary long before they liued and the title of Saint is added to each of them but the name is not set vpon the pictures yet they both are painted in the habit of their order They shew two like pictures drawne by direction of the said Abbot whereof they vnderstand one to be the last Pope vnder whom shall be one shepheard and one fould but they say it is vnknowne what the other signifies Before the new Chappell of the blessed Virgin there be two little chambers whereof one is called the Sanctuary in which their holy relikes are kept the other is called the Iewell house because the treasure of Saint Marke so they appropriate all publike things to Saint Marke is there kept and it is vulgarly called Luogo aelle groie that is the place of the Iewels The Procurators of Saint Marke keepe this treasure and make no difficulty to shew it to strangers of the better sort In this place I saw the Ducall Cap vulgarly ill corne or
for all that beg are sent thither and they haue many of these houses These are the most remarkeable things in the Churches of this sextary The third sextary or sixth part of the City on this side the channell meaning towards the gulfe of Venice vulgarly is called Ilsestiero di Canaregio of the canes or pipes which they were wont to vse in the building of ships In the Church of the Prophet Ieremy built by three families Morosini Malipieri and Runandi the sepulcher of Saint Magnus who built eight Churches when the City was first founded and the Image of the blessed Virgin much adored In the Church of Saint Marciali the Images aswel of the great Altar as of the Altar of Angelo Raphaeli In the Apostles Church where excellent sermons are made in the Lent the carued Image of our Lady vpon the Altar and her picture vpon the same painted by Saint Luke In the Church of Saint Iohn Chrysostome the pictures of three Theologicall vertues of Saint Marke and the carued Images of the Virgin and the Apostles In the Church of Saint Giob the ingrauing of the chappell of the Grimani and of the Altar of the Foscari the picture of Christ in the garden with his Apostles sleeping and the pictures of the next Altar namely that of the Virgin Saint Sabastian and Saint Giob In the Church of Saint Mary de serui the pictures of the great Altar especially of the Virgins assumption and also of the Virgins Altar and of Saint Augustins Altar especiall that of the wise men adoring Christ and the carued Images of another Altar the Marble sepulcher of Duke Andrea Vendramini being the fairest of all other in the City and the Oratory of the banished men of Lucea who first brought into this City the weauing of silke and of whom many were made Gentlemen of Venice In the Church of Saint Mary del ' Orto the huge Image of Saint Christopher the History of Moses and the prophicies of the last iudgement painted the painting of the arched-roof rare for perspectiue Art and che chiefe of that kinde the Monument of Iasper Contarini Cardinall of the Marble of Paros and the pillers of our Ladies Altar with many Marble stones In the Church of Saint Mary de Crostechieri the ancient pictures the notable pall of Saint Laurence worth seuen thousand crownes and the pictures in the chappel of Lewis Vsperi In the Church of Saint Lucia the Monument and chappell of the Saints In the chappell of Saint Luigi the great Altar fairest of those built of wood In the Church of Saint Mary of the Miracles the fairest of any Nunnery for the beauty and rare stones the walles couered with Marble two Marble Images of two children vnder the Organs the works of famous Praxitiles the Images of marble of Paros the stones of Porphery and Ophytes wonderfully carued the great Altar of Marble ingrauen with great Art the brasen Images of Saint Peter Saint Paul and of Angels These are the things most remarkeable In the Church of Saint Mary of Mercy Sansouine witnesseth this Epitaph which I will set downe left any should thinke incredible the like practises of Papists against Emperours and Iohn the King of England in these words To Ierom Sauina a Citizen of Venice Prior of Saint Maries notably learned in good Arts but more renowmed for piety which hee also shewed at his death towards his enemy who gaue him poyson in the challice at the Lords Supper by many arguments of his charity He died in the yeere MDCI. Also in the great schoole the same is witnessed in these wordes To Ierom Sauina wickedly killed by poyson giuen O horrible villany in our Lords Supper c. The fourth sextary or sixth part of the City and first of those beyond the channell meaning towards the Territorie of Paduoa is vulgarly called of the chiefe Church Il sestiero di San ' Polo In which Church of Saint Paul the most remarkeable things are these the picture of Christ washing his Apostles feet the pall of siluer guilded and the precious stones vpon the great Altar the pictures of the Altar of the holy Sacrament and of the blessed Virgin and the Images of Saint Andrew and the Apostles vpon pillars In the very faire market place of the same Church of old a market was weekely held and to the yeere 1292 the market was held heere on Wednesday and in the market place of Saint Marke on the Saturday but at this day none is held here but both in the place of Saint Marke for the benefit of those that dwell there and that the houses may bee more deerely let which belong to Saint Marke Neere the Church of Saint Siluestro the Patriarkes of Grado dwelt till the Bishop of Castello Oliuolo was made Patriarke In the Church of Saint Iames of Rialto narrow but very faire the precious stones and the pictures of great Art and antiquitie and the fiue Altars In the Church of Saint Mary Gloriosa faire and great the Belfrey stately built the Monument of the most famous Painter Titiano two Images of Marble neere the great doore the Marble Image of Saint Iohn ouer against the Florentine chappell the chancell paued with Marble and adorned with the grauen Images of the Prophets at the charge of the family Morosini the rare pictures of the great Altar the Epitaph of Francis Bernardo who being imployed into England in his yong yeeres made peace betweene King Henry and the French King Francis which many great men had attempted in vaine and for this braue act was Knighted by both the Kings These things in this church are most remarkeable The fifth sextary and the second beyond the channel of the chiefe Church is called il Sestiero di Santa Croce in which Church being a cloyster of Nunnes Duke Dominick Morosini lies buried with this inscription Here lies Dominick Morosini Duke of Venice with Sophia his Dutchesse hee was a good Duke and most wise full of faith and truth c. He tooke the City Tyrus and vnder him Istria and Pola were subdued with fifty gallies where of were Captaines his sonne and Marino Gradonico This glorious Duke died in the yeere MCLVI Also the Marble pillers of the great Altar the brasen Angels and the brasen Images of Christ rising from the dead of Saint Francis and Saint Anthony In the Church of Saint Simion Prophet the picture of Christs supper with his Apostles In the Church of St. Giacomo dell ' Orio a piller esteemed for a Iewell a Marble pulpit one of the fairest in the City and the Images of the chappell for christning In the Church of Saint Eustace the pictures of Christ whipped of Christ carrying his crosse and of Christ praying in the garden all of great Art In the Church of Saint Mary Mater Domini the great Altar of most pure siluer and the passion of Christ ingrauen the Altar of the blessed Virgin with her picture and the Altar of the holy Sacrament
places ioined in one whereof two may rather be called the market places of the Dukes Pallace ioining to the Church of Saint Marke the one being on the furthest side from Saint Marke betweene the pallace aud the great channell the other right before the pallace towards the channell foure hundred foot in length and some one hundred and thirty in bredth The third is before the Church doore of Saint Mark and lies in length fiue hundred and twenty foot towards the Church of Saint Geminiano and hath one hundred and thirty foot in bredth which may more properly be called the market place of Saint Marke The fourth is on the other side of the Church towards the Church of Saint Basso In this market place of foure ioined in one are solemne spectacles or shewes and all processions made and there on Ascention day is the Faire held and the markets on wednesday and saterday there they vse to muster souldiers and there the gentlemen and strangers daily meet and walke Before the doore of Saint Markes Church are three peeces of brasse carued and for bignesse like the bodies of trees vpon which at festiuall daies three rich banners are hung in signe of liberty or as others say for the three Dominions of Venice Cypro and Candia Vnder the tower of the Clocke fifty foot distant from Saint Markes Church is a passage to and from this market place and this tower all couered with marble beares a remarkeable Clocke which sheweth the course of the Sunne and the Moone daily and the degrees they passe and when they enter into a new signe of the Zodiacke and aboue that the guilded Image of our Lady shineth placed betweene two doores out of one of which doores onely at solemne Feasts an Angell with a Trumpet and the three Wise Men of the East following passe before our Ladies Image and adore her and so goe in at the other doore Aboue that there is a carued Image of a Lyon with wings and vpon the very top two brasen Images called the Mores which by turnes striking with a hammer vpon a great bell sound the houres The houses opposite to the Pallaces of the Procurators of Saint Marke are called the houses of the State and they belong to the Church of Saint Marke and hauing some fifty shops vnder the Arches of the vpper roofes where men may walke dry when it raines they yeeld great rents to the Church Opposite to these are the Pallaces of the said Procurators which are also in the said market place which I said to be more properly called the market place of Saint Marke and these being stately built sixty sixe foot high and the stones curiously carued doe not onely adorne the market place but in summer giue a pleasant shade to passengers besides that vnder the Arches of them men may walke drie in the greatest raine and the shops vnder these Arches yeeld great rents and vnder these Pallaces out of foure little streetes there be so many passages to and from the market place These Pallaces are built at the charge of the State the nine Procurators being to haue nine Pallaces for as yet they were not all built but in the meane time any pallace falling voide it was giuen to the eldest of them that had none yet not according to their age but according to their election The steeple or belfrey of Saint Marke distant some eighty foote from the Church and set ouer against it is to be admired not onely for the foundation strangely laid vnder the earth but also for many other causes It is built foure square each square containing forty foot and it is three hundred thirty three foot high of which feet the pinacle containes ninety sixe and the woodden Image of an Angell aboue the pinacle couered with brasse and guilded and turning with the wind containes sixteene feete It is adorned with high pillars of marble and with a gallery at the bottome of the pinacle made with many pillars of brasse and vpon the pinacle with great marble Images of Lyons and from the top in a cleere day men may see a hundred miles off the ships vnder sayles and it beares foure great bels whereof the greater called La Trottiera is rung euery day at noone and when the Gentlemen meet in Senate with like occasions but when a new Pope or Duke is made all the bels are rung and the steeple is set round about with waxe candles burning I went to the top of this steeple which hath thirty seuen ascents whereof each hath foureteene lesse ascents by which the going vp is as easie as if a man walked on plaine ground at the contriuing whereof I much wondered In the lodge of this steeple the foure brasen Images of Pallas Apollo Mercury and of Peace and aboue them the figure of Venice with the Dominion by sea and land and the Image of Venus the Goddesse of Cyprus and of Iupiter the King of Candia present themselues and neere the great gate the Images of the blessed Virgin and of Saint Iohn Baptist are highly valued Right ouer against the Dukes Pallace in the foresaid second market place of the pallace is the library whose building is remarkable and the architecture of the corner next the market place of the Bakers is held by great Artists a rare worke and diuers carued Images of Heathen Gods and Goddesses in the old habit are no lesse praised as done by the hands of most skilfull workemen On the inside the arched roofes curiously painted and the little study of iuory with pillars of Allablaster and rare stones and carued Images in which an old breniary of written hand and much esteemed is kept are things very remarkeable The inner chamber is called the study in which many statuaes and halfe statuaes twelue heads of Emperors and other things giuen to the State by Cardinall Dominicke Grimani are esteemed precious by all antiquaries And in this Library are laid vp the Bookes which the Patriarke and Cardinall Bessarione gane to Saint Marke that is to the State by his last will and the most rare books brought from Constantinople at the taking thereof and otherwise gathered from all parts of Greece Out of this Library is a passage to the chambers of the Procurators of Saint Marke before you enter them most faire statuaes aud on the inside rare pictures draw your eies to them Not farre from thence are two pillars the third whereof in taking them out of the ship fell into the sea and could neuer be recouered and they be of huge bignesse for the erecting whereof as a most difficult thing great rewards were giuen to a Lumbard and immunity was giuen to him by priuiledge for all that should play at dice vnder them Since it is accustomed that all condemned men are executed betweene these pillars which of old were put to death neere the Church of Saint Iohn Bragola and vpon one of these pillars stands the brasen statua of Saint Marke vnder the forme
of a Lyon and vpon the other stands the marble statua of Saint Theodor. The statua of Saint George beares a shield in token that Venice rather defends it selfe then offends others since the right hand carries a defensiue weapon Behind the Library is the Mint house vulgarly called La zecca whereupon I thinke the gold coyne of the Venetians is called Zecchino in which house it is remarkeable that there is no wood in any part thereof but for feare of fire it is all built with stone bricke and barres of iron Here the great statuaes of Gyants lifting vp their massie clubs as it were forbidding the entrance and in the court yard the statua of Apollo holding wedges of gold in his hand to shew that gold is made to grow in the bowels of the earth by the vertue of the sunne are things remarkeable From hence on rhe left hand is the market place which I said to be the first of the Pallace seated betweene the channell the Pallace And from hence on the right hand is the fish market in which as likewise in that of Rialto store of good fish is to bee bought twice in the day The market place in which the said Bel-frey and Library are built is also adorned with the stately Pallace of the Duke all couered with Marble and most sumptuous in the carued Images and pictures and in the pillers of the Arched walke on the outside The first staires towards the second market place of the Pallace and ouer against the said Library are very stately and are vulgarly called Scala de Giganti that is the staires of the Giants so called of two huge Marble statuaes of Mars and Neptune which the common people call Giants But the Pallace hath many other staires whereby men ascend thereunto Opposite to the aforesaid statuaes are two other of Adam and Eue but not so great as they and not farre from thence is a stone guilded with an inscription which the Senate placed there in memory of the French King Henry the third whom they entertained passing that way from Poland into France On the left hand is the Chappell of Saint Nicholas which is the Dukes priuate Chappell Hence you ascend into a large Hall as they call it or a large Gallery in the middest whereof the golden staites shine with gold and two marble Images and rare pictures On the left hand of the said staires is the passage to that part of the Pallace which is assigned to the Duke for his dwelling and in the first chamber called the Dukes Armes Sala del seudo the pictures of Christs resurrection and another of him crucified are much praised though it hath many other rare pictures When you haue ascended the golden staires your shall see foure rare pictures From thence the way on the left hand leads to the Chancery where many chambers are adioyning proper to diuers Councels of State all adorned with grauen Images and pictures of the best namely the chambers of the Councell rich in the painting of the arched roofe That of the Pregadi hauing generall rare painting and caruing That called Ia secreta in which the secret writings of the State is laied vp The Chappell of the Colledge where the Duke and the Senators daily heare Masse and it appeares by an inscription that the Antiquities were of old laid vp there among the pictures whereof that of Christs resurrection and the Map of the Territory of Venlce are much praised That of the Councell of Tenn in which the picture of the Wise-men offering gifts to Christ is much praised neere the same are chambers in which many rich Armors and rare Monuments are laid vp And that of the great Councell one hundred fifty foot in length and seuenty foure in breadth adorned round about with rare pictures namely on the side towards the foresaid second market place of the Pallace the History of Frederlcke the Emperour and of Pope Alexander the third is cursorily painted Towards the foresaid first market place lying betweene the Pallace and the channel the History of Constantinople taken by the Venetians and French is painted and the capitulation of the voyage made in the Church and the rest of the Saints in heauen are reputed rare workes The prisons of old were vnder this Pallace of the Duke but lately a new house is stately built of the stone of I stria for that vse neere the bridge Della Paglia The foure square market place of Rialto is compassed with publike houses vnder the arches whereof and in the middle part lying open the Merchants meet And there is also a peculiar place where the Gentlemen meet before noone as they meet in the place of Saint Marke towards euening and here to nourish acquaintance they spend an houre in discourses and because they vse not to make feasts one to another they keepe this meeting as strictly as Merchants lest their frinship should decay The Gold-smiths shoppes lie thereby and ouer against them the shoppes of Iewellers in which Art the Venetians are excellent There is the Pallace of a Gentleman who prouing a Traytor the State for his reproch turned the same into a shambles and some vpper chambers to places of iudgement The fish market lies by this shambles a great length along the banke of the great channell and in the same shambles and fish market as also in the like of Saint Marke great plenty of victuals especially of fish is daily to be sold. A publike Pallace stately built lieth neere the bridge of Rialto This bridge in the iudgement of the Venetians deserues to be reputed the eighth miracle of the world The old being pulled downe this new bridge began to bee built in the yeere 1588 and was scarce finished in three yeeres and is said to haue cost two hundred fifty thousand Duckets It is built of the stone of Istria vpon one arch ouer the great channell and the ascent to the toppe hath thirty sixe staires on each side and vpon each side of these staires are twelue little shoppes couered with lead not to speake of the carued Images of the blessed Virgin the Angell Gabriel and the two protecting Saints of the City namely Saint Marke and Saint Theodore Thereby is a Pallace called Il Fontico de i Todeschi because the Dutch Merchants haue it to their vse The Armory built for all kinde of Armes Munitions vulgarly called l' Arsenale as it were the Tower of the Senate is compassed with walles being in circuit more then two miles where some foure hundred Artificers are daily set on worke about naual prouisions and they receiue weekely for wages about one thousand two hundred duckets Within the same is a seueral place to make cables within the circuit hereof and no where else in the City they build Ships and Gallies and there bee alwayes in the same about two hundred gallies ready for seruice To conclude the State of Venice being not growne to full strength did in a hundred daies
Rimini but our desire to see the old famous City of Rauenna made vs goe out of the way twenty miles to the said City through a dirty way and fruitfull fields of corne and each of vs paid seuen poli for his horse Rauenna is a most ancient City whose wals the Emperour Tiberius either built or repaired Here of old was the harbour for the nauie of Rome Here the Emperour of the East after the Westerne Empire was extinguished made the seat of his Exarch After by the conspiring of the Popes and the French Kings Pipin and Charles the Great all the Cities of this Exarchate fell to the Popes share Yet others write that the French King onely added Tuseany to the Patrimony of Saint Peter and it is most certaine that these Cities for long time did not acknowledge the Pope for their Lord till at last the Popes in like sort conspiring with the French Kings Lewis the twelfth and Charles the eight had their aide to subdue these Cities and then Pope Iulius the second by terrour of his excommunications extorted Rauenna and other Cities from the Venetians and casting out the Lords of other Cities the Popes from that time being very skilfull to fish in troubled waters haue gotten possession of all the territories from the confines of the State of Venice to Ferraria Bologna and along the Coast of the Adriaticke sea to Ancona It is said that Rauenna stands not now in his old place for at this time it is some two miles distant from the Sea but the soyle thereof is most fruitfull in corne and vnfit to yeeld wine and it is rich in pastures The houses are built of bricke and flint stone aud are so old as they seeme ready to fall This City hauing been often taken by enemies hath lost all the ornaments which it had from so many Exarches and Kings of Lombardy and from the Bishops thereof who were so powerfull as they stroue long time for primacy with the Bishops of Rome On the North-side of the City lies the sea but distant from the same and without the wals is a wood of Pine-trees and not farre thence lie the ruines of a very old and most faire Church Saint Mary the Round whose roofe was admirable being of one stone and in the same Church was the rich sepulcher of the Lombard King Theodoricus which the souldiers pulled downe with the Church to get the mettals thereof On the East-side the sea lies some two Italian miles distant where is the Hauen for ships so much spoken of in the Roman Histories where the nauy of Rome did winter yet is it now neither conuenient nor secure for ships neither indeed can any but very small boates come vp to the Towne On the South-side without the golden gate built by the Emperour Claudius lie the ruines of a stately Pallace built by the same King Theodoricus and likewise of the City Caesaria In a Chappell of the Cathedrall Church is a most rich Font and they report that many Kingly monuments were of old in this Church In the market place lies a vessell of Porphry a Kingly monument which the Citizens in the yeere 1564. brought from the foresaid sepulcher of King Theodoricus in the ruined Church of Saint Mary neere the gate on the North-side In the monastery of Saint Francis is the sepulcher of the Poet Dante 's with these verses in Latin Exigua tumuli Dante 's hic sorte iacebas Squallenti nullis cognite penè situ At nune marmoreo subnix us conder is Area Omnibus cultu splendidiore nites Nimiram Bembus Musis incensus Hetruscis Hoc tibi quem inpri nis hae coluere dedit In a poore Tombe Dante 's thou didst lie here The place obscure made thee almost vnknowne But now a marble chest thy bones doth beare And thou appearest fresh as flower new blowne Bembus with Tuseane Muses rauished Gaue this to thee whom they most cherished In the yeere 1483. the sixth of the Kalends of Iune Bernar Bembus the Praetor laid this at his owne charge The strength merit and crowne of the Friars minorite couents S. V. F. and these verses were added in Latin Iura Monarchtae superos Phlegetonta lacusque Lustrando cecini voluerunt fata quousque Sed quia pars cessit melioribus hospita castris Actoremque suum petijt faelicior Astris Hic claudor Dante 's patrus extorris ab oris Quem genuit parui Fiorentia Mater Amoris The Monarchies Gods Lakes and Phlegeton I searcht and sung while my Fates did permit But since my better part to heauen is gone And with his Maker mongst the starres doth sit I Dante 's a poore banishd man lie here Whom Florence Mother of sweet Loue did beare In the Church of Saint Vitalis the pauement is of marble and the wals all couered with precious stones of many kinds but vnpolished as they were taken out of the mines shew great antiquity and magnificence and doe not a little delight the beholder Also there be certaine Images grauen in some stones I know not whether by nature or strange art which are to be admired Among which I remember one stone had the picture of a Turke in all the apparell they weare another the Image of a Monke in his habit another of a Priest with his bald head and two other the one most like the foot the other the leg of a man There is an Altar of Alablaster and the Church is of a round forme whose roofe is painted A la Mosaica like engrauing of which kind of painting rare and much esteemed in Italy I haue spoken before in the description of Venice In this Church is a fountaine of water which by vertue giuen it from this Saint as they say being thrice drunke off giues remedy to the head-ach Another Church of Saint Geruasiue is so ioined to this of Saint Vitalis as it seemed to mee but a Chappell thereof and in this Church also is the Saint buried of whom it hath the name and there be also the sepulchers of Placidiae sister to the Emperour Honorius and of her sonnes and daughters and of her nurse with her husband Here wee paid each man three poli for his supper From Rauenna we rode thirtie fiue miles to the old Citie Rimini namely ten to Sauio fiue to Ceruia fiue to Cesnadigo and fifteene to Rimini through wild fenny fields and a great Wood of Pine-trees and by the sandie shoare of the sea betweene which and the Apenine Mountaines diuiding Italy by the length the Valley was so narrow as we continually did see the snowy toppes of those Mountaines towards the South and for the most part did see together with them the Adriatique sea towards the North. In the foresaid Castle Cesnadigo the Post-master would haue forced vs to take new post-horses if he that let our horses to vs had not pleased him by the paiment of some money for the post-horses are knowne by a list of furre they weare in their
scoffed at vs and to my great maruell the Citizens of good sort did not forbeare this barbarous vsage towards vs. The description of Naples and the Territory A Rome farre distant B Capua D Torre di Graco and the Mountaine Somma E The Mountaine Pausilippo F The Iland Nisita or Nisa G The Iland Procida H S. Martino as I thinke an Iland I Ischia an Iland K Caprca or Capre an Iland L Palmosa an Iland and beyond it the Syrenes Iland famous by tables M The Citie Caieta N Circello a famous Mountaine for the Witch Circe P The Bay of Baie or Pozzoli R Linternum now called Torre della Patria X The Promontory Miseno Y The Cape of Minerua Z The old Citie Cuma a The Gate of Capua b The Kings Gate c The Church S. Clara. d The Castle of S. Ermo eéeee Scattered houses f The Hauen g Il. Molle h The Castle deuouo k The Vice-Royes house l The new Castle m The Lake d'Agnano compassed with the Mountaine Astruno n Grotta del can ' o Solfataria p Pozzoii q Tripergola r The Lake of Auernus s Baie t Cento Camerelle v Piscina mirabile w The Elisian fields From the foresaid part on the East-side of the Citie where we entred by the a Gate of a Capua without the walls towards the land Eight miles frō the Citie lies D Torre di Graco now called Torre d'ottauio where Pliny writer of the Naturall history and Admirall of the Nauey of Augustus was neere the said sower choked with vapours while too curiously he desired to behold the burning of the Mountaine Vesunius now called Somma This Mountaine Somma is most high and vpon the top is dreadfull where is a gulfe casting out flames and while the windes inclosed seeke to breake out by naturall force there haue been heard horrible noises and fearefull groanes Therest of the Mountaine aboundeth with vines and Oliues and there growes the Greckewine which Pliny calles Pompeies wine and of this wine they say this place is called Torredi Graco The greatest burning of this Mountaine brake out in the time of the Emperour Titus the smoke whereof made the Sunne darke burnt vp the next territories and consumed two Cities Pompeia and Herculea and the ashes thereof couered all the fields of that territory It brake out againe in the yeere 1538 with great gaprig of the earth and casting downe part of the Mountaine The Pallace there taking the name of the next Village is called Pietra Biancha that is white stone which on the inside is all of marble decked with carued worke in the very Chambers and there is an Image of a Nymphe sleeping and lying vpon an earthen vessell out of which great quantity of water flowes and falls into Marble Channels wherein fish are kept as in pondes This Pallace was built in the yeere 1530 by a Counseller to the Emperour Charles the fifth At the foote of this Mountaine of old Decius the first of all the Roman Consuls did by vow giue himselfe for the Army And at the bridge of the Brooke Draco the last King of the Gothes Teius was slaine hauing three Bucklers all pierced with his enemies arrowes On the same East side comming backe to Naples yet the saide Mountaine lyes Northward you shall come to a stately Pallace which the Kings of Naples haue built and called it Poggio Reale being not aboue a mile from Naples There of old was seated the Citie Paleopolis and it lies in a most sweete Plaine From the said Pallace the way leades right to the Kingly b Gate called Porta Reale at which onely the King enters in solemne pompe and from this Gate right to the West lies a most faire and large streete called Strada Toletana the way whereof on both sides is raised with a faire and large pauement for men to walk vpon and it hath a faire Market-place When you come to the end of this streete there is the Church of Saint c Clara called vulgarly San ' chiara which was built by Agnes of Spaine wife to King Robert where are artificiall sepulchers of the said Robert comming of the French Kings and of his wife Agnes and of other Kings and Princes of the French family Durczzana And there in a Chappell the Monkes day and night sing with a lamentable voice or rather groane for the rest of their deceased soules In the Church of Saint Dominick is an Altar which they say cost some twenty fiue thousand Crownes and in the Vesterie lie the bodies of nine Kings in coffins of wood couered with peuter hauing black veluet laied ouer them Among these Kings are Alphonso the first King of Aragon and Ferdinand his sonne and Ferdinand the second And in this place also the Monkes in like sort sing or rather houle rest to their soules They shew a Crucifix which they say did speake to Thomas Aquinas in this manner Thomas thou hast written well of me what reward doest them aske And that Thomas should answere No reward Lordbut thy selfe onely I haue heard that Saint Bernard knowing the fraudes and impostures of the Monkes and not dissembling them when the Image of the blessed Virgin did in like sort praise him did with much more pietie and wisdome answere out of S. Paul 1. Cor. 14. Let women be silent in the Church for it is not permitted them to speake Not farre thence are the publike schooles of the Vniuersity which the Emperour Fredericke the second founded there In the most faire Church of the Monkes of Saint Oliuet the Images of Ferdinand the first and Alphonso the second are so liuely engrauen and doe so artificially represent them as well in the bed dying as vpon their knees praying with the mourning of the by-standers the horror of Religion being increased with lampes continually burning as my selfe by chance passing by this Chappell thought I had fallen among liuing Princes not dead Images and perhaps I haue seene a more sumptuous monument but a more beautifull did I neuer see In the little Church of the Hermitane Friers Saint Iohn in Carbonara is a monument of Robert King of Naples and of Ioane the first his sister of white marble being an Altar which the Italians thinke the most stately monumenr of Europe but for my part I dare not preferre it to some in Germany nor to many in England nor to the monuments of the Turkish Emperours Many tables are hung vp by vow in this Church There is a faire sepulcher of white marble erected to N. Caraccioli Marshall of the Kingdome I omit the most faire Church of Saint Mary of the Preachers almost all of marble and the Cathedrall Church called Episcopio and the Church of Saint Laurence Vpon the North-west and by-north part of the City is the Fort called d S. Eremo cut out in a high Rocke yet the ascent thereunto is so easie as a horse-man may well mount to the top Vpon this mountaines top lies a plaine in which this Castle is seated which commands
20. Ardeatina 21. Galica 22. Tiberina 23. Settimia 24. Quintia 25. Gallicana 26. Triumphalie 27. Praetoriana 28. Laticulesen 29. Aureliana And vpon these waies hee relates many stately Pallaces built out of the Citie Now I will note the waies without the Gates by the same letters by which I haue noted the Gates leading to them Among these the most famous is the way of Appius called the Queene of waies most part of the chiefe Triumphes entring that way It begins at the Gate of Saint XII Sebastian and is paued to Capua and then deuided into two waies that on the left hand leading to Brundusium and that on the right hand leading to Pozzoli and to Cuma hauing stately Pallates on all sides and it hath the name of Appius Claudius the Censor In this way two miles from the Citie the Romans built a Temple in memory of Hannibal who incamping there was forced to raise his siege with disgrace The way of Flamintus is no lesse famous which lies from the Pillar of Antoninus 11 to the Gate IIII del popolo and did leade to Rim. ni vpon the Adriatique Sea and part of it was called Quincia and it was ioyned with the way called Claudia and of old was called the large way Where the way of Flaminius endes there begins the way AEmilia made by his fellow Consul AEmilius Lepidus leading to Bologna and paued to the very Alpes Yet there is another way of the same name neere Pisa. The way Collatina is without the Gate V Pinciana the way Salaria without the Gate VI Salaria the way Tihurtina without the Gate VIII Saint Lorenzo the way Praenestina without the Gate IX Maggiore on the left hand or East-side and the way Labicana on the right hand or South-side of the same Gate In the way Praenestina is the stately Conduit or Aqueduct of Pope Sixtus Quintus extending it selfe many miles vpon the next Plaine where lie the ruines no lesse wonderfull whereof I spake in my iourney from Rome to Naples To conclude the way Latina is without the Gate XI Latina the way Ostiensis without the Gate Saint XIII Paolo the way Aurelia without the Gate XV Saint Pancratio which if I be not deceiued was called also the way Vitelia paued from the Mount Ianiculo to the Sea But who would not wonder that from the Gate XIX Portusa the way should leade into the Valley of Hell for so it is called close to the holy Seate of the Popes Rome was of old called Septicollis of seuen Hilles or little Mountaines contained within the walles namely Capitolinus Palatinus Auentinus Celius Esquilinus Viminalis and Quirinalis Hereof the first and chiefe is XXII Capitolinus of old called Saturnius of the Citie Saturnia and Tarpeius of the Virgin Terpeia which betraying her Countrey to the Sabines giuing them entrance at that place was for reward there killed by them And at last in the raigne of Tarquin the proud it was called Capitolinus of a head digged out of the ground At this day it is vulgarly called Il Capidoglio It is diuided into two parts namely the Capitolium and the Rocke Tarpeius lying on the Northside of the hil And it had sixty Churches wherof the chiese was of old dedicated Ioni Optimo Maximo where the Triumphers vsed to giue thanks for victory and to offer rich spoiles to Iupiter And it was adorned with the stately building of the Capitolium and with many stately Palaces of noble men The second Mount is called XXIII Palatinus of Palantus Grand-father to Euander among many diuers opinions following Virgil At this day it is vulgarly called Palazzo Maggiore and it is a mile in circuit but is not at all inhabited And vpon the side lying towards the Circus they shew a little house in the place where Romulus dwelt onely preserued in memory of him And vpon this Mount Catilina and Catullus and Cicero did dwell The third mountaine was called XXIIII Auentinus of birds by whose flight they vsed to prophecy or of the King Auentinus And it was of old called Romorio of a place in the top where they obserued the flight of the birds and it hath two miles in compasse The fourth Mount is XXV Celius of Celius King of Hetruria and was of old called Querquetulanus of a Wood of Oakes And a little Mountaine being part of it is vulgarly called Celiolus where I shall shew the Church of Saint Iohn the Euangelist to bee seated Vpon this Mountaine was the house of Scipio the Africane neere the Church of Saint George The fifth Mountaine was called XXVI Esquilinus or Esquilia of the guard of the Pretorian souldiers or of the fragments of meate cast there to feede hawkes It reacheth from the Market-place of Traian to the Baths of Dioclesian and the Gate of S. Lorenzo and the monument of Marius vulgarly called I Trofei And at this day it is called Cespius and they say that Virgil dwelt vpon this Mountaine The sixth Mount was called XXVII Viminalis being long and narrow and some say it is part of the Mount Esquiline but all writers generally reckon it among the seuen hills and it had the name of the Church of Iupiter Viminius so called of the Oseyers growing there and they say Marcus Crassus dwelt vpon this Mountaine The seuenth Mount was called XXVIII Quirinalis of the Quirites or Senators dwelling there or of the Speare of Iuno and it was also called Egonus At this day it is vulgarly called Monte Cauallo There be two other Mountaines beyond the Tyber which are seated in Toscany not in Latium for Leander makes all the places most neere to Rome on this side to belong to Hetrurta The first of these Mountes is called XXIX Vaticanus of the crying of an infant or of a god of that name as Gellius writes which god was the god of prophecies Pope Leo the fourth compassed this Hill and the next field with walles and called it Leonina but at this day it is called Il Borgo The other Mount beyond Tyber was called XXX I aniculus of I anus dwelling and buried there and is now vulgarly called Mortorio Within the walls of Rome there bee some other Hills or little Mountaines but lesse famous The first is called XXXI Pincius and vulgarly de li hortuli reaching to the Gate Salaria The second was called XXXII Citorius and of old Citaterius of the Tribes descending from thence to chuse Magistrates as those that were sutors to be Magistrates descended from the Mount Pincius and went into Campus Martius The third Mount lesse and more obscure is called XXXIII I or danus of the family Orsini who at this day haue their Pallaces vpon it The fourth Mountlesse and obscure is called XXXIIII Testaceus of earthen pots for the Potters of old dwelt there and the images and vessels of the Temples were for the most part of earth And when the dead bodies were burned the ashes were laied vp in these vessels whereupon a heape grew to a
is richly guilded and here Pope Pius the fourth consecrated the spoiles taken from the Turkes in the nauall victory of him and his confederates the memory whereof is there kept by an inscription vpon a pillar Also the Senate and people of Rome haue here erected a table to Pope Paul the third vpon which is written in golden letters that while he was Cardinall he erected here many antient monuments digged vp in Rome at his owne charge On the other side of the Mount Capitoline towards the West as I remember at the very foot of the mountaine is the Tullian prison appointed for that vse by the old Kings Ancus Martins and Tullus in which they say the holy Apostles Peter and Paul were imprisoned and at this day there is a Church vnder the earth called Saint Peter In Careere The 24 Theater of Marcellus sonne to the sister of Augustus is neere the Pallace of the Family Sauilla Not farre thence towards the fish market was the Porticus of Octauia sifter to Augustus but no ruines now remaine thereof The 25 pallace of the Cardinal Farnese is seated in a plain being one of the fairest in Rome which for the dignity of such a City hath very few stately Pallaces Here I did see an admirable statua cut out in one stone of a Bull treading a woman vnder his feete with the Images of two brothers standing vpright and of a hunting dogge with the figure of a high Rocke Concerning the Churches which we did see in this daies iourney The 23 Church of Saint Adrian in the market place called Romanum or Boiarium The Church of Saint Peter and Marcellanus betweene the 20 Theater of Vespasian and the Church A S. Giouanni in Laterano the Church of Saint Matthew in the way towards C Saint Mary Maggiore the Church of Saint Pietro in vincula vpon XXVI Mount Esquiline where is a sepulcher of white marble of Pope Iulius the second adorned with faire statuaes namely one of Moyses of the rare worke of Michael Angelo the Church of Agata vpon the same mountaine the Church of Saint Vito In Macello the Church of Saint Eusebius neere the mounment called 9 Trofei di Mario the Church of Saint Prasside seared neere C S. Maria Maggiore whose chappell called Horto del Paradiso no woman may enter the Church of Saint Quirico the Church Saint Susanna vpon XXVIII Monte Cauallo the Church Saint Vitallis Al these Churches giue the titles of Cardinals The Church Saint Costanza is a long mile out of the VII gate Pis and was of old dedicated to Bacchus where is a most faire sepulcher and large of porphry ten ordinary spannes deepe and fifteene long curiously engrauen with boyes quaffing and bearing cups of wine as in a Feast of Bacchus which some thinke to be the sepulcher of Constantia a Virgine daughter to Constantine but the engrauing like a Feast of Bacchus seemes more ancient and to be wrought by the Heathen Romans and it is vulgarly called the sepulcher of Bacchus This Church is of a round forme and little but very faire and borne vp with twelue rowes of marble pillars set in a round compasse Neere this lies the Church of Saint Agnese hauing doores of brasse where the Lambes are kept whereof the Pals of Arch-bishops are made which the Pope so dearly sels At my first comming to Rome I lodged in a publike Inne and paid three giulij each meale then as I haue written I hasted my iourney to Naples and after returning to Rome I hired a chamber by the day and bought my owne meat but my haste to be gone made me not to note my particular expences Onely I remember that they who sold any thing in the market vsed to look into the hands of the buyers to see whether they brought siluer or brasse coyne and thereafter made their price whereupon many shewed siluer till they had bought and then paid in copper which the people durst not refuse And from hence it was that in a solemne pompe when the people fell on their knees before the Pope and I thought they onely expected his blessing they all cried out Holy Father command that we may haue white bread and that the Gentlemen may be forced to take our brasse quatrines so as it seemes they refused to receiue them I scarce bought my meat one or two daies in Rome For after I had beene with Cardinall Allen I formerly said that to shun the company of his Englishmen I changed my lodging and my selfe and two Dutch Gentlemen my consorts tooke a chamber in a victualling house close vnder the Popes Pallace and each of vs paid for our bed each night one or two baocci and bought our meat in that house agreeing for the price before we did eat it and so being ready vpon all euents of danger and hauing no carriage to trouble vs we hoped if need were to escape yet still I rested much vpon the Cardinals promise and being free from Englishmens company and hauing two honest Dutch Gentlemen for my consorts both borne in the Palatinate of Rheine where they professe the same religion as in England I did with more security set my selfe freely to satisfie my curiosity in the view of Rome After being desirous to see the mouth of Tyber where it fals into the sea I went out of the gate of Saint Paul and hauing the narrow bed of Tyber on my right hand passed twelue miles to Ostia through fruitfull hils of corne and a vast wood at my iournies end Here is a strong Castle seated in Latium and belonging to the Popes of Rome which Pope Martin the fifth built and Pope Iulius the second did more strongly fortifie but nothing remaines of the stately buildings of that City but some poore houses Strabo writes that King Ancus Martius first built this City in a soile to which the Riuer brought much dirt It is certaine that of old the ships did cast Anchor without the Hauen of the City and sent their goods to Rome in Gallies and Barkes drawne vp by a rope the Hauen being not so deepe to beare them The Citizens were free from Tribute to make them dwell there the aire being then as also at this time very vnwholsome Now the Tyber seemes to end here in a Lake and the waters runne in little channels vnder the paued high waies The Hauen of Traian is a mile and a halfe from the Towne being broad enough but so barred with sand and like matter as no ships can come to it and onely small Barkes sometimes passe from Naples and neere places to Rome and that very seldome The foresaid Hauen was first built by Claudius then repaired by Traian and called of his name of which Suetonius writes thus in the life of Claudius He made the Hauen of Hostia drawing an arme on the right and left side and making a barre at the entery where it was deepe which barre that he might make more stable by Art he sunke the ship
Vpon the same South side within the wals is a faire market place and the Pallace of the Venetian Gouernour which Gouernour in Italy is vulgarly called Il Podesta And necre the wals on this side lies a stately Monument of an old Amphitheater at this day little ruined vulgarly called Harena and built by Luc Flaminius though others say it was built by the Emperour Octauius It passeth in bignesse all the old Amphitheaters in Italy and the outside thereof is of Marble and the inner side with all the seates is of bricke It is of an ouall forme and the inner yard is sixety three walking paces long and forty eight broade where the lowest seates are most narrow whence the seates arise in forty foure staires or degrees howsoeuer others write that there be onely forty two degrees and they so arise as the vpper is still of greater circuit then the lower And the shoppes of the Citizens built on the outside vnder the said increase of the inner circuit haue about fifty two walking paces in bredth which is to be added to make the full breadth of the inside It hath eighteene gates and betweene euery Arch are very faire statuaes and the seates within the same are said to bee capable of twentie three thousand one hundred eightie and foure beholders each one hauing a foote and a halfe allowed for his seate Each one of vs gaue two gagetti to the keeper of this monument Alboinus King of the Lombards was killed by his wife at Verona In the Monastery of Saint Zeno is a Monument erected to Pipin sonne to Charles the Great and betweene this Monastery and the next Church in a Church yard vnder the ground is the Monument of Queene Amalasaenta Barengarius King of Italy was killed at Verona and this City braggeth of two famous Citizens namely the old Poet Catullus and Guarinus a late writer The territorie of this Citie is most fruitfull abounding with all necessaries for life and more specially with rich Wines particularly the Retian wine much praised by Pliny and preferred to the Wine of Falernum by Virgill which the Kings of the Gothes were wont to carrie with them as farre as Rome It is of a red colour and sweet and howsoeuer it seemes thicke more fit to be eaten then drunke yet it is of a most pleasant taste The Lake Bennaeus is much commended for the store of good Carpes and other good fish besides this territory yeelds very good marble Here I paid forty soldi for my supper and sixteene soldi for the stable that is for hay and straw and eighteene soldi for three measures of Oates Certaine Gentlemen bearing me company from Paduoa to this City and being to returne thither did here each of them hire a horse for three lires and a halfe to Vicenza where they were to pay for their horse meat From hence I rode fifteene miles to the Castle Peschiera built by the old Lords of Verona and seated vpon the Lake Bennacus vulgarly called Il Lago di Gardo where they demanded of me two quatrines for the passage of a bridge but when I shewed them my Matricula that is a paper witnessing that I was a scholler of Paduoa they dismissed me as free of all Tributes And in like sort by the same writing I was freed at Paduoa from paying six soldi and at Verona from paying eight soldi I rode from this Castle seuen miles to a Village seated vpon the same Lake famous for the pleasant territory and the aboundance of good fish and here I paid twenty soldi for my dinner and eight soldi for my horse meat All my iourney this day was in a most sweet plaine rising still higher with faire distances so as the ascent could hardly be seene After dinner I rode eighteene miles to Brescia which City flourished vnder thelold Emperours of Italy then was subiect to the Lombards and tyrant Kings of Italy and they being ouercome to Charles the Great and French Gouernours then to the Westerne Emperours of Germany and to the Italian family of the Berengarij And it obtained of the Emperour Otho the priuiledge to be a free City of the Empire till being wasted by the factions of the Guelphi and Gibellini the Scaligeri a family of the same City made themselues Lords thereof whom the Vicounts of Milan cast out of the Citie and when Phillip Maria Duke of Milan oppressed the City and would not be induced to ease the same of his great impositions they yeelded themselues in the yeere 1509 to the French King who had defeated the Venetian Army Then by the French Kings agreement with the Emperour Maximiltan the Citie was giuen into the Emperours hands whose Nephew the Emperour Charles the fifth restored the same to the French King Francis the first who likewise in the yeere 1517 gaue the same into the hands of the Venetians The most fruitfull territorie of Brescia hath mines of Iron and brasse and I thinke so many Castles Villages and Houses so little distant the one from the other can hardly be found else where The Brooke Garza runs through the City which is of a round forme and is seated for the most part in a plaine and towards the North vpon the side of a mountaine where a Tower is built which hath many houses adioining and in this Tower or Castle the Venctian Gouernour dwels who takes an oath that he will neuer goe out of the same till a new Gouernour be sent from Venice The Cities building is of bricke the streetes are large and are paued with flint Boniface Bembus was a Citizen of Brescia and the Brescians as also the Citizens of Bergamo are in manners and customes more like the French their old Lords then the other Italians farther distant from France and the very weomen receiue and giue salutations and conuerse with the French liberty without any offence to their husbands which other Italians would neuer indure Here I paid forty soldi for my supper and forty soldi for foure measures of oates and for the stable From hence I rode thirty two miles to Bergamo and as the territories in this part of Italy lying vpon the South sunne which beats vpon the sides of the hils and mountaines with great reflection of heat and vpon the other side defended from the cold windes of the North and East by the interposition of the Alpes are singularly fruitfull and pleasant so for the first twenty miles of this daies iourney they seemed to me more pleasant then the very plaine of Capua yeelding plenty of corne and of vines growing vpon Elmes in the furrowes of the lands which Elmes are planted in such artificiall rowes as the prospect thereof much delighteth the eye And the other twelue miles were yet more pleasant being tilled in like sort and towards my iournies end yeelding most large and rich pastures The City Bergamo after the Roman Empire was extinct first obeyed the Lombards then the French and following the fortune
them according to the Greeke language for the statua of Isis was at Saint German till it was taken away in the yeere 1514 and a Crosse was set vp in the place thereof by the Bishop of Molun The City hath the name of Lutetia in Latin either of dirt for the Fens adioining or in the Greeke tongue of Morter there digged out because all the floares are of plaster and the houses plastered ouer And some say that it was of old called the City of Iulius Caesar who built great part thereof It lies in the eleuation of the Pole forty eight degrees and the chiefe part thereof namely the Iland or greater City is seated in a fenny ground For the Riuer Seyne hath often ouerflowed Paris and broken downe the bridges In the time of King Phillip Augustus the waters rose to the statuaes without the Cathedrall Church of Saint Mary on the North-side thereof as appeares by an inscription Also in the yeere 1373 for two moneths space they so ouerflowed the City as they passed in boates the streetes of Saint Denis and S. Antoine To conclude omitting many ouerflowings mentioned in Histories it appeares by an inscription in the vally of Misery that in the yeere 1496 there was a great inundation The City of old was all in the Iland and when it could not receiue the multitude increased the City was inlarged to both sides of the continent and first that part of the City called La ville then the third part called the Vniuersity were esteemed suburbes till after they were ioined to the City For the Kings Court and the City still increased with buildings so as the Subburbes were greater then the City whereupon King Charles the fifth gaue them the same priuiledges which the City had and compassed them with wals whereof the ruines yet appeare And new Suburbes being afterwards built King Henry the second in the yeere 〈◊〉 made an Edict that the houses vnpersected should be pulled down and that no more should afterwards be built The Riuer Seyne running from the South and entering at the South-side diuides the City into two parts the greater part whereof towards the East and North lies low in a plaine and is vulgarly called La ville The lesse lying towards the South and West vpon a higher ground is seated betweene hils and is called the Vniuersity Betweene those two parts lies the third namely the Iland called the City which is seated in a plaine and compassed on all sides with the Riuer Seyne running betweene the Ville and the Vniuersity And this part was of old ioined to the Vniuersity with two bridges and to the Ville with three bridges but now a sixth called the new bridge doth moreouer ioine the Iland aswell to the Ville as to the Vniuersity The part of the City called the Ville is compassed on the south and west sides with the Riuer Seyne and vpon the East and North sides with wals rampiers and ditches in the forme of halfe a circle The second part of the City called the Vniuersity is compassed on the East and North sides with the Riuer Seyne and vpon the South and West sides with wals which they write to haue the forme of a hat saue that the long suburbes somewhat alter this forme For my part it seemed to me that ioined with the Iland it had also the forme of another halfe circle though somewhat lesse then the former The third part called the Iland or City is compassed round about with the Riuer Seyne and vpon the South-east side is defended from the floods of the Riuer by foure little Ilands which are marked in the map with blacke ines and lie like Rampiers diuerting the streame from beating on the City To this Iland they passe on both sides by bridges and in respect of the Bishops Pallace he Kings greater Pallace it may be called the heart of the City The old wals of the Ville were first of lesse circuit then now they are for new wals were built which also included the Suburbes and the inner wall is of vnpolished stone the outer wall is of earth compailed round about with ditches which neere the Riuer are broad and full of water but further off towards the North and East are narrow and altogether drie But the old wals are either demolished or conuerted to the supporting of priuate houses The Vniuersity is compassed with like wals and because it is seated vpon high ground the ditches are altogether drie And the wals of earth aswell of the Ville as the Vniuersity are so broad as three or foure may walke together vpon them And round about the City I meane the Ville and Vniuersity compassing the Iland are many rampiers vppon the wall like so many Forts The Iland or City was of old compassed with wals wherewith the greater Pallace lying towards the North at this day is compassed Paris in generall is subiect to the King so as it hath vnder him a peculiar iurisdiction and in spirituall matters it is subiect to the Bishop In the time of King Lewis the eleuenth one hundred and foure thousand Citizens were numbered able to beare armes in the yeere 1466 and King Charles the fifth in the yeere 1371 gaue the Citizens the rights and priuiledges of Gentlemen King Phillip Augustus in the yeere 1090 made Shiriffes to gouerne the City with consular authority and he gaue the City for Armes a ship adorned with Lillies he paued the streetes with flint and compassed the City with wals The Parisians haue raised many seditions The first in the yeere 1306 against rich men raising the rents of houses The second with the King of Nauar and the English against the Dolphin The third in the yeere 1383 against the Kings Treasurers which Charles the sixth returning with his Army out of Flanders did seuerely punish The fourth betweene the factions of Orleans and Burgundy The fifth most pestilent and longest with the Guisians against the last King of Valois The building of the City is for the most part stately of vnpolished stone with the outside plastered and rough cast and the houses for the most part are foure stories high and sometimes sixe besides the roofe which also hath glasse windowes The streetes are somewhat large and among them the fairest is that of Saint Dennis the second Saint Honere the third Saint Antoine and the fourth Saint Martine And in the Iland the waies to these streetes are fairest The pauement is of little but thicke and somewhat broade stones But in the meane time the streetes of the Ville either for the low situation or by the negligence of the Citizens are continually dirty and full of filth The three parts of the City namely the Ville the Iland and the Vniuersity being ioined together are of a round forme which of all others is most capable saue that the halfe circle of the Ville is greater then the other halfe circle which is compassed as it were with the two hornes of
the former And the whole circuit of the City without the wals excluding the suburbes is said to be of sixe miles The market places which are in the streetes are vulgarly called Carrefours as being fouresquare and hauing passage to them on all sides and they are eleuen in number namely foure of the Butchers which vpon a sedition raised by them were diuided into foure tribes the fifth the shambles vpon the mount Saint Genouefa the sixth built for the poore which haue no shops and for the weomen which sell linnen which is vulgarly called La lingeria well knowne for the cosinages of these linnen sellers the seuenth of the brokers vulgarly called La Fripperie the eight and chiefe is in the Iland called Marshes because of the Fenny soyle the ninth is for fishes of the Riuer seated neere the tenth being the little bridge of Saint German of the Vniuersity the eleuenth is without the gate for hogges There be foureteene fountaines besides the fountaine of the Queene and that of the Innocents built of stone The Ville hath eight Hospitals the Vniuersity foure and the Iland two The description of Paris A the Gate Saint Antoine B the Bastile C the gate of the Temple D gate of Saint Martin E gate of Saint Denys F gate Mont-martre G gate Saint Honore H New gate I Le L'ouure K gate Saint Victoire L gate Marcell M gate of Saint Iames N gate Saint Michaell O gate Saint Germain P gate Bussia Q gate Nella R Cathedrall Church S Church Saint Bartholmew T the greater Pallace V Pont denostredame W Pont Au change X Pont aux musniers Y Petit pont Z Pont Saint Michaell XX Pont neuf I will begin the description of the City with the first part thereof called La ville which hath seuen gates from the South east to the North-west I will not speake of the old or inner gates of the old City which gates since the building of the new wals are called false gates as seruing for no vse Onely I will say that they were of the same number and so called as these new gates are and that King Francis the first for comelinesse sake caused them to be demolished The first of these seuen gates lies towards the South-east and is called A Saint Antoine By this gate I entered the City when I came from Chalons and without this gate I did then see the Kings Pallace not farre distant from Paris and most sweet for the seat and building called Bois du' Sainct vincent and then I passed the bridge called Calantoine being without this gate where the Riuer Matrona fals into the Seyne and so entered Paris by the gate and the Church and faire streete of Saint Antoin Neere this gate Francis the first built a fort As I came in on the left hand was the Tower B called the Bastile well knowne by that name which was begun to be built in the yeere 1369 by Hugho Ambriet Prouost of Paris and he being condemned to perpetuall prison for imputed heresie it came to the Kings hand On the same side is the Kings store-house for brasse Ordinance neere the Monastery of the Celestines in whose Church there be many marble sepulchers and among the rest one erected to Lewis of Orleans slaine by the Duke of Burgondy and to his Dutchesse Valentina daughter to the Duke of Milan by King Lewis the twelfth with learned Epitaphs On the same side is the Church of Saint Paul the House of the Queene the house of the Prouost of Paris the publike Senate-house and the place called the Greue famous by the capitall punishment of offenders For in this part of the City called Ville there be three places for the execution of Iustice the other two parts hauing not one place namely this of the Greue and that of the Temple lying on the left hand of the gate called Temple next adioining to this and the third called Luparia lying on the left hand of the scuenth gate called the new gate And from these three places the dead bodies are carried out of the gate of Saint Martin to be buried vpon Mont-falcon And giue me leaue out of order to remember you that Pierre Remy Treasurer and gouernour of France vnder King Charles the faire repaired this Mont-Falcon and that his enemies then wrote vpon the Gallowes standing there this time in French Ence gibeticy ser à pendu Pierre Remy Vpon this gybet here you see Peter Remy hanged shall be And that according to the same hee was in the time of Phillip of Valois hanged there for the ill administration of his office On the right hand as you come in by the same gate of Saint Anthony is a place for Tylting called Tournelles Not far thence at Saint Catherines Church in the Schollers valley is an inscription witnessing that a house was pulled downe to the ground for an arrow shot into the Church when the Rector of the Vniuersity was there at Masse in the yeere 1404 there being at that time a great sedition raised betweene the City and the Vniuersity about a scholler denled with dirt and that this house by permission of the Vniuersity was built againe in the yeere 1516. Also as you come into this gate on the right hand in the Monastery Saint Anthony a dried Crocodill is hung vp which a French Ambassador at Venice left there for a monument in the yeere 1515. And there is a sepulcher of the daughters of King Charles being of blacke marble with their statuaes of white marble Neere that lies the Church yard of Saint Iohn for publike buriall made in the yard of the house of Peter 〈◊〉 which was as pulled downe to the ground in the yeere 1392 because the Constable of France was wounded from thence The second gate towards the East is the gate of the C Temple neere which is the fort called Le Rastillon on your righthand as you come in and this fort or some other in this place was built by Francis the first On the lefthand as you come in is the house of the Templary Knights like a little City for the compasse and from it this gate hath the name And when this order of Knighthood was extinguished their goods were giuen to the Order of Saint Iohn The Church of this house is said to be built like that of Ierusalem and there be the monuments of Bertrand Peter Priors of France the Table of the Altar is curiously painted and here Phillip Villerius Master of the Knights of Saint Iohn was buried in the yeere 1532 to whom a statua of white marble is erected The third gate is called D Saint Martine and it lieth towards the North-east without which gate is the Suburb of Saint Laurence so called of the Church of Saint Laurence The fourth gate is called E Saint Denis and without the same is the Hospitall of Saint Lazarus and the foresaid Mount Falcon and when King Henry the fourth besieged this City he did much
harme to the same from some high places without this gate On the left hand as you come into the broad and faire street of Saint Denys lies a Castle which they say Iulius Casar built and the same Castle was of old the chiefe gate of Paris whereupon Marcellinus cals the whole City the Castle of the Parisians And vpon the righthand is the Nunnery of the daughters of God which vse to giue three morsels of bread and a cup of wine to condemned men going to execution Not farre thence is the large Church yard of the Holy Innocents which King Phillip Augustus compassed with wals and there be many faire sepulchers and they say that bodies buried there are consumed in nine daies The fifth F gate lies toward the North and is called Mont-Martre so called of a mountaine of the same name lying without that gate and hauing the name of Martyres there executed And Henry the fourth besieging the City mounted his great Ordinance in this place The sixth G gate Saint Honore hath a suburbe in which is the market place for swines flesh and vpon the right hand as you come in hard by the gate is an Hospitall for three hundred blind men The seuenth H and last gate lies vpon the Seyne towards the North-west and is called the new gate and within the same about a musket shot distance is the I Kings Pallace which may be called the lesse Pallace in respect of the greater seated in the Iland and this little Pallace is vulgarly called Le' leuure This Pallace hath onely one Court yard and is of a quadrangle forme saue that the length somewhat passeth the bredth and the building being of free stone seemeth partly old partly new and towards one of the corners the Kings chambers vulgarly called Il Pauillon are more fairely built then the rest Without the said new gate some halfe musket shot distance is the Kings garden with the banquetting house vulgarly called Les Tuilleries And now the ciuill warres being ended the King beganne to build a stately gallery which should ioine together this garden and the foresaid Pallace of the King and I heare that this Gallery is since finished And the hall ioining this gallery with the Pallace doth passe the stately building of the rest of the Pallace being beautified with many stones of marble and of porphery I say that this Gallery leads from the Pallace ouer the wals of the City and the ditch thereof being neere the riuer and so full of water and after being supported with two or three Arches reacheth to the same garden and all the way without the wals from the Pallace to the said Garden being compassed with wals on both sides this gallery the Garden seemes to be so much increased On the left hand as you come into the foresaid new Gate lies the Tower Luparia Alencon house Burbon house the Coyning house and vpon the right hand the chiefe Coyning house lying vpon the Riuer Seyne To conclude of the streetes of this part of the Citie called Ville the chiefe is S. Antoine the second of the Temple the third S. Martine the fourth S. Denys the fifth Mont Martre the sixth S. Honore all so named of their Gates and the seuenth Luparia vpon the banke of the Riuer Seyne And amongst all these the most faire are that of S. Antoine S. Denis S. Honorè and S. Martinè so called of their Gates A. E. G. D. The second part of the Citie called the Vniuersitie hath the Riuer Seyne on the East and North-sides and is compassed with walles on the South and West sides and hath seuen Gates The first K Gate S. Victoire lies on the South side vpon the Riuer and hath his Suburbe with a stately Monastery And from the Hill adioyning to this Gate the Army of King Henrie the fourth besieging the Citie much pressed the same hauing their Cannon planted neere the Gallowes On the right hand as you come in towards the Riuer lie the Tower Nella the vpper the Colledge of the Cardinall the Colledge of the good boyes the Colledge and the Church of the Bernardines which Pope Benedict the twelfth built and the Cardinall of Telouse increased with a Libraty and with maintenance for sixteene Scholers to studie Diuinitie Also there lie the house of Lorayne the great Schooles of foure Nations the Market place for Riuer fish and the Castle and the little bridge which the Prouost of Paris built to restraine the Schollers walking by night in the time of King Charles the fifth The second gate is called L the Porte of Marcellus or of the Stewes and it hath a Suburbe where in the Church of Saint Marcellus Bishop of Paris and canonized for a Saint which Rowland Count of Blois nephew to Charles the Great did build Peter Lombardiu Bishop of Paris was buried in the yeere 1164 and behinde the great Altar in a window is the Image of Charles the Great On the right hand as you enter the said Port by the Mount of S. Genouefa lie the Colledge Turnonium the Colledge Bonae Curiae the Colledge of the Dutch the Colledge of Navarra the Colledge Marchieum and the Colledge Laudunense and on the left hand the Colledge of the Lombards the Colledge Prellaum famous for Peter Ramus who was Master of that Colledge was there killed in the massacre The third Gate of M S Iames lyes on the South-west side where King Francis the first built a fort without this Gate is a suburb in which is a Church yard of the Monastery of Saint Marie at the very entrie whereof is a most ancient Image of the Virgin painted with gold and siluer with an inscription vpon it In the streete of Saint Iames the Iesuites had their Colledges till for their wicked acts they were banished the Citie and Kingdome And since their restitution I thinke they now enioy the same On the right hand as you enter this Gate lie the Colledge Lexouiense the Colledge of Saint Michael or Cenate the Colledge Montis Acuti which built in the yeere 1490 maintaines certaine poore Scholers called Capeti the Colledge of S. Barbera the Colledge of Rheines the schoole of Decrees the Colledge Bellouaccuse the Colledge Triqueticum the Colledge Cameracense and the Colledge Carnouallense On the left hand lie the Colledge of the bald men the Colledge of Sorbona which Robert of Sorbona a Diuine and familiar with King Saint Lewis did institute and the same in processe of time became of great authority in determining questions of Diuinity the Colledge of Master Geruasius a Christian the Colledge Plexourense and the Colledge Marmontense The fourth N Gate of the vniuersity is called Port Michaell where Francis the first built a Fort and before the gate is a Monastery of the Carthusians where a statua of blacke marble is erected to Peter Nauareus and there be two statuaes of white marble without any inscription On the right hand as you enter this gate lie the
Colledge Cluniacense the Pallace of the Baths which they say was built by Iulius Caesar and is so called either of the bounds of the Tributes or of the Baths of Iulian the Apostata the waters whereof are drawne from a Village adioining and the Colledge of eighteene and vpon the left hand the Colledge of Hericuria the Colledge of Iustice the Colledge of the Treasurers the Colledge Baionium the Colledge Scensa and the Colledge Turonense The fifth Gate on the West side is called O Saint Germain and without the gate is a suburbe all suburbes are vulgarly called Faulxbourg which is large and was pulled downe to the ground in the ciuill war And there King Henry the fourth lay encamped when he besieged the City In this suburbe is the monastery of Saint Germain not inferiour to any in wealth and indowed with great priuiledges and iurisdiction where the old Kings Childebert the second and Ckilperit the fourth and Clotharius the second lie buried and there is a chest of siluer the gift of King Eudo. On the right hand as you come into this Gate in the Minorites Cloyster are the sepulchers of the Queenes and Princes whereof one being of blacke marble with white statuaes is the fairest my memory herein may faile me that there is another Cloyster of Minorites without the gate of Saint Marcellus Also there lie the Colledge Brissiacum and vpon the left hand the house Rothomagensis the Colledge of Burgondy the house of Rhemes the Colledge Mignonium the Colledge Praemonstratense and the Colledge Dinuellium The sixth Gate is called P Bussia and vpon the right hand as you come in lies the Colledge Anthunense and vpon the left hand lies the house Niuernensis The seuenth and last Gate of the Vniuersity lies towards the northwest is called Q Nella and without the same is the meadow of the Clerkes On the right hand as you come in this gate lie the house Nella the Colledge of Saint Denis and the house of the Augustines wherein is the sepulcher and liuely Image of Phillip Comineus And vpon the left hand lie the lower Tower Nella and the Westerne bank of the Riuer Seyne These are the fairest streetes of the Vniuersity the first of Saint Victoire the second of Saint Marcellus the third of Saint Iames the fourth of Saint Germain the fifth of the Celestines vpon the banke of the Riuer the sixth of the mountaine of Saint Genouefa the seuenth of Saint Michaell and the eight of the Augustines vpon the banke of the riuer Seyne The third part of the City is the Iland compassed round about with the Riuer Seyn It had of old foure Gates vpon the foure bridges but seemes to haue had no gate vpon the fifth bridge called Pont aux musniers which in this discription I reckon to be the third gate In the vpper part of the Iland towards the South-east is a fenny market place called the Marsh that is the Fen. Neer that lies R the Cathedrall Church of the blessed Virgin which King Phillip Augustus began to build in the yeere 1257 the foundations being before laid by an vncertaine founder and it is reputed the chiefe among the miracles of France It is supported with one hundred and twenty pillars whereof one hundred and eight are lesse and twelue very great being all of free stone The Chauncell is in the middest of the Church which hath 〈◊〉 walking paces in length and sixty paces in bredth and all the Chauncell is compassed with stone wherein the Histories of the old and new testament are engrauen It hath forty fiue Chappels in the circuit thereof which are shut vp with grates of Iron In the Front it hath two double doores with faire statuaes of twenty eight Kings Vpon the sides are foure Towers or belfreyes thirtie foure Cubits high The greatest bell called Marie requires twentie foure men to ring it and the sound thereof in faire weather may bee heard seuen leagues of In a Chappell towards the South are the statuaes of King Lewis the fat and of his son Phillip with the Image of a hog because he died with a fal from his horse stumbling vpon a hog On the North side is a mark that the ouerflowing of the Riuer Seyne passed the outward statuaes from that of Phillip Augustus King Phillip of Valois hauing gotten a victory against the Flemings in the yeere 1328 offered his Horse and armour to the blessed Virgin and gaue the Chanons an hundred pounds yeerely rent to whom for that cause a Horse-mans statua is there erected Also there is a Giantlike statua erected to Saint Christofer in the yeere 1413 by Antony Dessars Knight In the lower part of the Iland towards the North-West the Church of S Saint Bartholmew is seated which was built by King Phillip the faire and after was turned from the Kings Chappell to a Monastery by King Lotharius in the yeere 973 and then became a parish Church whereof the King in respect of the old Pallace was the chiefe Parishioner and I thinke is so still It became most famous in that the bell of that Church was sounded vpon the verie day of Saint Bartholmew in the yeere 1572 to giue a signe to the Regalists and Guisians that they should kill those of the reformed Religion whom they had drawne to the Citie vnder pretence of loue and could not otherwise haue ouercome as they found by experience of their valour Neere that lyes the Kings greater T Pallace wherein the old Kings kept their Court but it hath since been vsed for the Courts of iustice and pleading of Lawyers In the great Hall hanges vp a dried Crocodil or a Serpent like a Crocodil There bee the painted Images of all the French Kings from Pharamund There is a statua of a Hart with the head and necke of Gold set there in memory of the Treasurers who in the time of King Charles the sixth turned the money in the Exchequer into that forme lest it should be wasted Here was painted vpon the wall neere the Tower vpon the top of the staires of the great Hall the Image of Engueranus Morignon Earle of Longauille and ouerseer of the building of this Pallace vnder King Phillip the faire with this inscription Chascun ' soit content de ses biens Qui n'a suffisance iln ' a riens Be thou content with the goods thee befall Who hath not enough hath nothing at all This was spoken like a Philosopher but the same man vnder Lewis Hatinus was hanged for deceiuing the King and this his Image was broken and kicked downe the staires In the Hall of the Pallace is a Marble Table at which Kings and Emperours were wont to bee feasted The Chamber of the Pallace where verball appeales are decided is called The golden Chamber and it is adorned with stately and faire arched roofes carued and pictures and there the Image of a Lyon with the Head deiected and the Tayle drawne in remembers the Pleaders of their dutie Lewis the
twelfth did build with Regall expence this Chamber and another called the Chamber of Accounts vulgarly la chambre des comptes In this Pallace the Chappell built by Saint Lewis lyes vpon an arched Chappell which hath no pillars in the middest but onely on the sides and they say that the true Images of Christ and the blessed Virgin are vpon the lower dore And in this Chappell the reliques are kept which Balduinus the Emperour of Constantinople ingaged to the Venetians and the King of France redeemed out of their hands In the very Hall of the Pallace round about the pillars are shops of small wares or trifles Right against the Gate of the Pallace stood the house of Iohn Chastell which was pulled downe in memorie of a young man his sonne brought vp among the Iesuites and a practiser of their wicked doctrine who attempting the death of King Henrie the fourth did strike out one of his teeth I haue said formerly that this Iland was ioyned to the Ville by three Bridges and to the Vniuersitie by two Bridges and at this time is ioyned to them both by the sixth Bridge The first V Bridge towards South-East leades to the street of Saint Martin and is called pont de nostre Dame that is the Bridge of our Lady and it was built of wood in the yeere 1417 hauing threescore walking paces in length and eighteene in breadth and threescore houses of bricke on each side built vpon it But this bridge in the time of Lewis the twelfth falling with his owne weight was rebuilt vpon sixe Arches of stone with threescore eight houses all of like bignesse built vpon it and was paued with stone so that any that passed it could hardly discerne it to bee a Bridge The second Bridge of the Broakers vulgarly W Pont au Change is supported with pillars of wood The third Bridge of the Millers vulgarly called X Pont aux Musniers lies towards the North-West and leades to the streete of Saint Denis which they say did fall and was rebuilt within three yeeres then past By these three Bridges the Iland was of old ioyned to the Ville The fourth Bridge lying on the other side of the Iland towards the South leades into the streete of Saint Iames and is called Y le petit pont that is The little Bridge being rebuilt or repaired of stone by King Charles the sixth The sifth Bridge is called Z Saint Michell and lying towards the South-West side leades into the streete of Saint Michell and hath a pleasant walke towards the foresaid Bridge of the millers on the other side of the Iland and built vpon pillars of wood was repaired in the yeere 1547 and adorned with bricke houses By these two Bridges the Iland was of old ioyned to the Vniuersitie Since that time after the ende of the Ciuill warre a new Bridge hath been lately built on that side of the Iland which lyes towards the North-West and it is called XX pont neuf that is The new Bridge ioyning the Iland both to the Ville and to the Vniuersitie The chiefe streetes of the Iland are the very Bridges and the 〈◊〉 waies leading to the Cathedrall Church and to the greater Pallace The Church or the little Citie compassed with walles in respect of the Church of Saint Denis the Protecting Saint of the French is two little miles distant from Paris Hither I went passing by the Gate of Saint Denis lying towards the North East Thence I passed vpon a way paued with Flint in a large Plaine towards the East hauing Mount Falcon on my right hand whether I said that they vse to draw the dead bodies of those that are beheaded in the Ville and the next way to this mount is to goe out by the Gate of Saint Martin And vpon my left hand I had the Mountaine of the Martirs vulgarly called Mont Martre and the next way from the Citie to this Mountaine is to goe out by the Gate Mont Martre Vpon this Mountaine they say that the Martyrs Dennis Areopagita and Rustieus and Eleutherius were beheaded in the time of Domitian because they would not offer sacrifice to Mercurie And they constantly beleeue this miracle that all these three Martyrs carried each one his head to the Village Catula which now is called Saint Dennis And I obserued by the way many pillars with Altars set vp in the places where they say the Martyrs rested forsooth with their heades in their hand and at last fell downe at Catula where this Church was built ouer them and likewise a a Monastery by King Dagobertus who also lyes there buried and hath a statua in the Cloister of the Monastery Here are the Sepulchers of the Kings among which that of King Francis the 〈◊〉 is somewhat more stately then the other being of white Marble with the statuaes of that King and his Queene Claudia there buried with him That of Lewis the twelfth and his Queene is of white Marble but lesse faire and the third erected to Charles the eight in a Chappell of the Church is of blacke Marble with some statuaes of brasse To conclude to euery three or foure of the rest of the Kings one poore monument is erected Neither are these sepulchers of the Kings in my opinion any thing stately or answerable to the fame But at the entrance of the Chauncell the representation of Christ buried and of the three Kings or Wisemen and of the shepheards and others there engrauen seemed to me who haue no skill in that Art to bee of much Art and beautie I haue read other Itineraries which relate that here are bells of most pure Mettal that the dores are of Brasse guilded ouer that the Table of the high Altar is of Gold that here is a Crosse of Gold offered by King Dagobert that the bodies of the Martyrs are laid in a coffin of Gold that the roofe of the Church is partly of siluer and that there is a Crucifix of Gold before the Altar But I should thinke that these old ornaments are taken away and not to bee seene at this day Hauing viewed Paris I desired to see the French King Henrie the fourth and his Court and because I lately had been robbed aswell of my cloake as of my Crownes here I bought for some two French Crownes an old cloake among the Brokers in the Market place called the Fripperie So I tooke my iourney towards the Court and went by boate vpon the Seyne which boat daily passeth from Paris towards the South nine leagues to Corbeuile and foure leagues to Melune hauing on both sides pleasant Hilles planted with Vines and I payed seuen soulz for my passage Then I went on foote foure miles ouer a Mountaine paued with Flint to the Kings Pallace called Fontain-bleau that is the Fountaine of faire water Beyond the same Mountaine this Pallace of the King is seated in a Plaine compassed with Rockes And it is built with Kingly Magnificence of Free-stone diuided into
foure Court-yards with a large Garden which was then somewhat wild and vnmanured At this time the Ciuill warre being ended the King began to build a Gallerie the beginning of which worke was very magnificent The next day after I had seene the King I returned on foote eight leagues to Sone Heere I found post-Horses returning to Paris and hiring one of them for twentie soulz I rode eight miles through fruitfull fieldes of Corne and pleasant Hilles planted with Vines and so returned to Paris entring by the Gate of Saint Victoire in the Vniuersitie Now my Crownes which I had saued from the foresaid theeues were by little and little spent and I who in my long iourney had neuer wanted money but had rather furnished others that wanted with no small sums was forced to treat with vnknowne Merchants for taking money vpon exchange But howsoeuer I had in other places dealt with noble Merchants yet here I found my selfe to bee fallen into the hands of base and costiue Merchants who perhaps hauing been deceiued by English Gentlemen driuen by want to serue in the warres of France had not the least respect of mee for my misfortune among Theeues nor yet for our common Countrey It happened that at this time there were in Paris two English Knighis brethren namely Sir Charles and Sir Henry Dauers who for an ill accident liued then as banished men And to them I made my misfortune knowne who like Gentlemen of their qualitie had a iust feeling thereof especially for that they were acquainted with Sir Richard Moryson my brother and they would willingly haue lent mee money But I will tell a truth well knowne These brothers vpon good bonds were to haue receiued some thousands of Crownes a few moneths past in the Temple Hall which is one of the Innes of Court of London for those that professe the English Law This being made knowne by one of the debtors the Queene confiscated those Crownes as belonging to banished men Whereupon these Knightes being to attend the French King to Lyons in his warre vpon Sauoy were much driuen to their shiftes to get money for that iourney Yet did they not cast off all care to prouide for me but with great importunitie perswaded a starueling Merchant to furnish me with ten French Crownes When I had receiued them I spent some few daies in refreshing my selfe at Paris They account fortie eight miles from Paris to Roane whether I went by boat and payed a French Crowne for my passage The first day we passed eighteene miles to Poissy a most faire and famous Nunnerie and towards the euening wee passed by the Kings Pallace S. Germain The next day we passed twentie leagues to Andale and by the way passed by a bridge diuiding the County of France from the Dutchy of Normandy and did see the Pallace Galeon and a most faire Monastery Then wee passed foure miles by water to Port S. Antoine and one mile by land Then wee hired another boat in which we passed fiue leagues to Roane and I payed for this passage three soulz This our way was by pleasant Ilands hauing on both sides pleasant Hilles planted with Vines and fruit-trees The Citie of Roane is seated on the North side of the Riuer Seyne partly in a Plaine partly vpon sides of Hilles The building is for the most part of Free-stone brought from the Citie Cane and vpon a Hill towards the North without the walles the Fort S. Cateline was seated when King Henrie the fourth besieged Roane and then the Fort much anoyed the quarter of the English auxiliarie forces but now this Fort was altogether demolished Concerning expences of diet in these parts I spent at Paris in the Innes fifteene soulz each meale and at Roane twelue soulz and at some Innes by the way fifteene soulz but whosoeuer payes for his supper hath nothing to pay for his bed But before the late Ciuill warre they payed no more at Roane then eight soulz for a meale Passengers who stay long in the Citie vse to hire a chamber which at Paris is giuen for two French Crownes by the moneth if it be well furnished and otherwise for lesse They that at Paris hier a chamber in this sort vse to buy their meate in Cookes shops and hauing agreed for it the Cookes bring it to their chamber warme and with pleasant sauce And surely all things for diet were cheaper at Paris then they vse to be at London and since they vse to buy small peeces of meate a solitarie passenger shall in that respect spend the lesse Other passengers agree with some Citizen for diet and chamber which may bee had at Paris in conuenient sort for one hundred and fiftie French Crownes by the yeere and at Roane for one hundred and twentie but before the last Ciuill warre it might haue been had for one hundred or eightie and sometimes for sixtie French Crownes At Roane I now payed for my supper twelue soulz and the next day eleuen soulz for my dinner The night following wee rode fourteene leagues to Diepe in a most pleasant way diuided into inclosed Pastures yeelding great store of Apletrees not onely in the hedges but also in the open fieldes About midnight we tooke some rest and meate in a poore and solitaire Inne of a Village but with such feare as wee were ready to flie vpon the least noise From Roane to Dieppe I hired a horse for thirtie soulz and in this last Inne I payed twelue soulz for my meate and fiue soulz for my horse-meate Dieppe is a pleasant Citie and the greater part thereof especially la Rue grande that is the great street is seated in a plaine vpon the Hauen but it is compassed with Mountaines and is diuided into two parts by an Arme of the Sea The greatest part of the building is of Timber and Clay like our building of England I had spent at Paris most part of the ten Crownes I there receiued and when I came from Roane I perceiued that I should presently fall into want of money Being in these straites I went to the younger Paynter one of the English Posts passing betweene London and Paris and now returning in my company to London and to him in few words I made my case knowne who willingly yeelded to beare my charges to London hauing me still in his company for a pledge At Dieppe I payed fifteene soulz for each meale and ten soulz for my licence to passe ouer Sea and fiue soulz of gift to one of the Officers and tenne soulz for my part of a boat hired to draw our ship out of the Hauen of Dieppe After we had failed fourteene houres vpon Tuesday the thirteenth of May after the old stile in the yeere 1595 early in the morning we landed in England at Douer and I payed a French Crowne for my passage in the ship and sixe English pence for my passage in a boate from the ship to that Port of blessed England But we were fearce
higher and higher towards the West and consists especially of one broad and very faire street which is the greatest part and sole ornament thereof the rest of the side streetes and allies being of poore building and inhabited with very poore people and this length from the East to the West is about a mile whereas the bredth of the City from the North to the South is narrow and cannot be halfe a mile At the furthest end towards the West is a very strong Castle which the Scots hold vnexpugnable Camden saith this Castle was of old called by the Britaines Castle meyned agnea by the Scots The Castle of the Maids or Virgines of certaine Virgines kept there for the Kings of the Picts and by Ptolomy the winged Castle And from this Castle towards the West is a most steepe Rocke pointed on the highest top out of which this Castle is cut But on the North South sides without the wals lie plaine and fruitfull fields of Corne. In the midst of the foresaid faire streete the Cathedrall Church is built which is large and lightsome but little stately for the building and nothing at all for the beauty and ornament In this Church the Kings seate is built some few staires high of wood and leaning vpon the pillar next to the Pulpit And opposite to the same is another seat very like it in which the incontinent vse to stand and doe pennance and some few weekes past a Gentleman being a stranger and taking it for a place wherein Men of better quality vsed to sit boldly entred the same in Sermon time till he was driuen away with the profuse laughter of the common sort to the disturbance of the whole Congregation The houses are built of vnpolished stone and in the faire streete good part of them is of free stone which in that broade streete would make a faire shew but that the outsides of them are faced with wooden galleries built vpon the second story of the houses yet these galleries giue the owners a faire and pleasant prospect into the said faire and broad street when they sit or stand in the same The wals of the City are built of little and vnpolished stones and seeme ancient but are very narrow and in some places exceeding low in other ruiued From Edenborow there is a ditch of water yet not running from the Inland but rising ofsprings which is carried to Lethe and so to the Sea Lethe is seated vpon a creek of the Sea called the Frith some mile from Edenborow and hath a most commodious and large Hauen When Monsieur Dessy a Frenchman did fortifie Lethe for the strength of Edenborow it began of a base Village to grow to a Towne And when the French King Francis the second had married Mary Queene of the Scots againe the French who now had in hope deuoured the possession of that Kingdome and in the yeere 1560. began to aime at the conquest of England more strongly fortified this Towne of Lethe but Elizabeth Queene of England called to the succour of the Lords of Scotland against these Frenchmen called in by the Queene soone effected that the French returned into their Countrey and these fortifications were demolished Erom Leth I crossed ouer the Frith which ebs and flowes as high as Striuelin to the Village King-korn being eight miles distant and seated in the Region or Country called Fife which is a Peninsule that is almost an Iland lying betweene two creekes of the Sea called Frith and Taye and the Land yeelds corne and pasture and seacoales as the Seas no lesse plentifully yeeld among other fish store of oysters shel fishes and this Countrey is populous and full of Noblemens and Gentlemens dwellings commonly compassed with little groues though trees are so rare in those parts as I remember not to haue seene one wood From the said Village King-korn I rode ten very long miles to Falkeland then the Kings House for hunting but of old belonging to the Earles of Fife where I did gladly see I ames the sixth King of the Scots at that time lying there to follow the pastimes of hunting and hawking for which this ground is much commended but the Pallace was of old building and almost ready to fall hauing nothing in it remarkeable I thought to haue ridden from hence to Saint Andrewes a City seated in Fife and well known as an Vniuersity and the seate of the Archbishop But this iourney being hindred I wil onely say that the Bishop of Saint Andrewes at the intercession of the King of Scotland Iames the third was by the Pope first made Primate of all Scotland the same Bishop and all other Bishops of that Kingdome hauing formerly to that day beene consecrated and confirmed by the Archbishop of Yorke in England Likewise I purposed to take my iourney as farre as Striuelin where the King of the Scots hath a strong Castle built vpon the front of a steepe Rocke which King Iames the sixth since adorned with many buildings and the same hath for long time beene committed to the keeping of the Lords of Eriskin who likewise vse to haue the keeping of the Prince of Scotland being vnder yeeres And from thence I purposed to returne to Edenborow but some occasions of vnexpected businesse recalled me speedily into England so as I returned presently to Edenborow and thence to Barwicke the same way I came I adde for passengers instruction that they who desire to visit the other Counties of England and Ireland may passe from Edenborow to Carlile chiefe City of Comberland in England and so betweene the East parts of Lancashire and the West parts of Yorke and then through Darbyshire Nottinghamshire Warwickeshire Staffordshire and Chesshire may take their iourney to the City Westchester whence they shall haue commodity to passe the Sea to Dablin in Ireland and while they expect this passage they may make a cursory iourney into Flintshire and Caernaruenshire in Northwales to see the antiquities thereof or otherwise may goe directly to Holy Head and thence make a shorter cut to Dublyn in Ireland From Dublyn they may passe to see the Cities of the Prouince Mounster whence they may commodiously passe to the South parts of Wales and there especially see the antiquities of Merlyn and so taking their iourney to the West parts of England may search the antiquities of these seuerall Counties and easily find commoditie to passeinto the West parts of France And all this circuit beginning at London may with ordinary fauourable winds according to the season of the yeere be easily made from the beginning of March to the end of September Alwaies I professe onely to prescribe this course to such as are curious to search all the famous monuments and antiquities of England mentioned in Camdens compleat description thereof CHAP. VI. Of the manner to exchange Moneys into forraine parts and the diuers moneys of diuers parts together with the diuers measures of miles in sundry Nations most necessary
after the rate of foure shillings six pence English for each doller I gaue my bill for the payment of eleuen pound fiue shillings English to be repaied by my friend at London And at Dantzk the same Merchant for the same fifty dollers gaue me one and thirty Hungarian duckets of gold and foureteen grosh in siluer being the fittest money for my iourney to Crakaw in Poland and to Vienna in Oestreich or Austria Out of England to Venice in Italy the exchange of foure shillings and sixe or eight pence English vseth to bee rated at a Venetian Ducket My selfe tooke no bils of exchange from England to Venice but had letters of credit to receiue money of a Venetian Merchant to be repaid in London vpon my bill after the rate of foure shillings three pence for each Venetian ducket And at first being to take my iourney for Rome and Naples I tooke vp two hundred siluer crownes most fit for that iourney which at Venice were rated at two hundred fiue twenty duckets and nineteene grosh and I gaue my bill for three and fifty pound sterling twelue shillings and sixe pence English to be repaied by my friend in London Then I retained with my selfe as many of those crownes as were necessary for my iourney leauing the rest in the hands of a Venetian Merchant who gaue me a bill to receiue so many crownes In specie that is in kind at Florence where I purposed to make my aboad for some few moneths Out of England into Turkey I formerly said that for the vncertainty of the iourney vpon the great distances of places there is no certaine value of exchange neither vse our Merchants to send bils of exchange thither but to giue letters of credit first to receiue money there either at large according to the passengers wants or for a certaine yeerely summe to be after repaied in England vpon the passengers bill And the Merchants there for each zechine of gold of Venice deliuered at Haleppo vse to exact nine or ten shiliings English to be repaied in London to the passengers great losse which he that will auoid may exchange his money to Venice and there receiue zechines of gold or siluer moneys of Spaine to carry with him In specie that is in kind From London into France the exchange of sixe shillings English vseth to be rated at threescore French soulz or three French pounds which make a common French crowne but a French crowne In specie and of iust waight is valued there at threescore and foure soulz as in England an Angell of gold is worth more then ten shillings siluer among the Exchangers though in expences it is giueri out for no more then ten shillings and not onely bils of exchange into France are giuen at the foresaid rate for moneys first receiued in England but he that hath a merchant to his friend or acquaintance may easily compound to receiue money first in France vpon his letters of credit and to repay it in London after the rate of sixe shillings English for sixtie French soulz To this I will adde two generall cautions most necessarie for trauellers first whereas in Germany and Italy the Territories of absolute Princes are frequent and of small extent and each of these Princes doth coyne small pieces of brasse money it behooueth the passenger to take heede that he spend each Princes brasse moneys within his Territory or else that vpon the confines hee change them into brasse moneys currant in the next Territory which if hee neglect the subiects of the new Prince howsoeuer they bee neighbours to the former Prince and may daily change these coynes for their owne yet they will not receiue them without great gaine they being of themselues little worth and onely by the prerogatiue of each Prince currant among their owne subiects Secondly the passenger must take speciall care to leauea faithfull friend at home to pay the bils readily which he sends ouer to his Merchant for so doing hee shall neuer want in forraine parts at least among Christians and knowne places of trafficke yea out of his good report hee shall bee furnished with more money then is warranted by his letters of credit but on the contrary if his friend deny or delay paiments hee shall not haue credit to borrow a penny vpon his occasions more then that for which the Factors shall haue warrant by billes of exchange or letters of credit and if he fall into any misfortune he shall not find a friend to deliuer him from penurie and shame These things being sayed in generall nothing remaines now but to set downe the particular moneys of seuerall Kingdomes and the value of them at the time when I liued beyond Seas which value is subiect to change at the pleasure of each absolute Prince And in this discourse I thinke most fit to begin with the moneys of England being more familiarly knowne vnto me Being to write of the Standard weight and value of English moneys I thinke fit first to giue some few admonitions to the Reader First that the purest gold containes foure and twentie caracts in the ounce and foure graines make a caract Secondly that the purest siluer containes twelue ounces in each pound Troy weight And that Edward the first King of England keeping the Feast of Christs Natiuitie at Barwich in the yeere 1300 did vpon Saint Steuens day decrie the value of base siluer moneys and after did altogether forbid the vse of them and shortly after commanded sterling money to be coyned so called of the Easterlings who first coyned siluer money of that Standard which is of eleuen ounces two penny weight Thirdly that the English pound as well of gold as siluer meaning the pound of the Ballence not the pound of twentie shillings commonly spent containes twelue ounces Troy weight And that each ounce of siluer is worth fiue shillings of the currant money and each ounce of Angel gold is worth three pound fiue shillings or sixtie fiue shillings of Queene Elizabeths siluer money and each ounce of Crowne gold is worth three pound or sixtie shillings of the same coyne Fourthly that the Mint-Master gaue account before the Queenes Examiners for the money they coyned as well by the tale or number of the pieces as by the sheere for it being not possible to coyne moneys of the iust prescribed weight yet the Mint-master was held to haue performed his contract with the Queen for the standard prescribed by her so the siluer were not more then 2 penny weight in the ounce heauier or lighter then her standard prescribed and in like sort for the coyning of gold a certaine proportion of some eight graines in the ounce was allowed to the Mint-Master in this account by the sheere Fiftly that 20 penny weight makes an ounce and 24 graines make a penny weight Now I returne to the discourse in hand Queene Elizabeth in the yeere 1600 contracted with the Mint-Master that of gold of the standard
Captaine Richard Pluncket 100. Captaine Mostian 100. Captaine Tibot ne long 100. Captaine Walter Floyd 150. Captaine Thomas Roper 150. Captaine Oliuer Burke 100. Captaine Thomas Burke 100. Captaine Dauid Bourke 100. Horse at Carickfergus Neale Mas Hugh 30. Foote at Carickfergus Sir Arthur Chichester 200. Sir Richard Percy 150. Captaine Eington 100. Captaine Norton 100. Horse at the Newry Sir Samuel Bagnol 50. Foote at the Newrie Sir Samuel Bagnoll 200. Captaine Edward Blaney 150. Captaine Freckleton 100. Captaine Iosias Bodley 150. Captaine Francis Stufford 100. Captaine Toby Cawfeild 150. Captaine Leigh 100. Foote at Dundalke Captaine Egerton 100. Captaine Bingley 150. Captaine Basset 100. Foote at Atherde Sir Garret Moore 100. Captaine Roe 100. Horse at Kells and Nauan Lord of Dunsany 50. Sir Garret Moore 25. Foote at Kells and Nauan Lord Audley 200. Lord Dunsany 150. Sir Fulk Conway 150. Sir Christopher Saint Laurence 200. Sir Henry Dockwra 200. Sir Iohn Chamberlaine 150. Captaine Iohn Sidney 100. Captaine Ralph Sydley 100. Captaine Roger Atkinson 100. Captaine Heath 150. Captaine Nelson 100. Captaine Hugh Rely 100. Horse at Trym Sir Grisson Markham 50. Foote at Trym Sir Charles Piercy 200. Captaine Roger Orme 100. Captaine Alford 100. Foote at Leax and the Barow side Sir Warham Saint Leger 150. Sir Francis Rush 150. Captaine Iohn Fitz-Piers 150. Master Hartpoole 10. Foote at Eniscorthy Sir Oliuer Lambert 200. Sir Richard Masterson 150. Horse in and about the Nasse The Earle of Kildare 50. Captaine Richard Greame 50. Captaine Thomas Gifford 2. Captaine George Greame 12. Captaine Thomas Lee 12. Foote in and about the Nasse Earle of Kildare 150. The Earle of Southampton 200. Sir Matthew Morgan 150. Sir Thomas Loftus 100. Captaine Walter Mac Edmond 100 Captaine Edward Loftus 100. Captaine Thomas Williams 150. Captaine Thomas Lee 100. Captaine William Eustace 100. Captaine Esmond 150. Captaine Iohn Masterson 100. Captaine Ellys Flood 100. Captaine R. Treuor 100. Foote at Mullingar The Lord of Deluin 150. Captaine Thomas Mynne 100. Captaine William Stafford 100. Captaine Lionel Ghest 100. Captaine William Winsor 100. Captaine Thomas Cooche 100. Captaine Garret Dillon 100. Foote in Ophaly Sir Henrie Cooly 20. Sir Henry Warren 100. Sir Edward Fitz-gerald 100. Sir George Cooly 20. Horse at Kilkenny The Earle of Ormond 50. Sir Oliuer Lambert 25. Sir Walter Butler 50. Sir Cristopher Saint Laurence 30. Captaine Garret Fleming 25. Captaine William Taffe 50. Foote at Kilkenny The Earle of Ormond 200. Sir Carew Reynel 150. Sir Henrie Follyot 150. Captaine Richard Croft 100. Captaine Henry Sheffeild 100. Captaine Nicholas Pinner 100. Foote at Ballymore and O Carrols Countrie Captaine Francis Shane 100. Captaine Edward Lister 100. Sir Charles O Carrol 100. Horse and Foote at Newcastle Sir William Warren 50 horse Sir William Warren 100 foote Foote at Athboy and Phillipstown Sir Richard Moryson 200. Sir George Bourcher 100. Foote at Dublin Sir Henrie Foulkes commanding the Lord Lieutenants Guard 200. Horse at Fingall and the Nauan Sir William Euers 100. The Earle of Southamptons troope commanded by Captaine Iohn Iephson 100. Sir Henry Dauers 100. Horse in the Countie of Dublin Sir Hen. it Harrington 25. Sir Edward Herbert 12. Sir Gerald Aylemer 13. Morrogh Mac Teig Oge 10. Foote vndisposed Sir Iohn Talbot 22. Totall of Horse one thousand two hundred thirtie one Totall of Foote fourteene thousand foure hundred twenty two The foresaid Lords Iustices being left to gouerne Ireland vpon the Lord Lieutenants sudden departure did easily rule the vnweldy Helme of this Kingdome so long as the Sea was caline by the continuance of that truce formerly mentioned to bee made betweene the Lord Lieutenant and Tyrone which was then concluded for sixe weekes and so from sixe to sixe weekes till the Calends of May except either of them should giue fourteene daies warning of their purpose to breake the same But about the beginning of December Tyrones party entring into acts of hostility the Lords Iustices sent Sir William Warren to expostulate with him the cause of this breach He answered that he had not broken the Truce hauing according to the condition thereof giuen them fourteene dayes warning And that he had so done because the Earle of Essex being imprisoned in England in whom he had placed all the confidence of his life and estate he was resolued not to relye on the Councell of that Kingdome who had formerly delt deceitfully with him therein Finally that he could not now renew the truce though hee neuer so much desired it since hee had already sent Odonnel into Connaght and diuers of his confederates into other parts to renew the warre Thus much their Lordships aduertised into England by letters full of diffidence professing that they feared the rebels would presently assault the English Pale Likewise some ill affected to the Earle of Essex aduertised that among the Rebels a common rumor was spread and that no doubt from Tyrone that England would shortly be in combustion within it selfe which increased the suspitions already conceiued of the foresaid conference had betweene the Earle and Tyrone to the great preiudice of the Earle being in durance Now her Maiestie receiuing these aduertisements and further vnderstanding that the rebels daily increased in number and courage that the meere Irish aspired to liberty and that the English Irish if perhaps well affected yet were daunted by the ill successe of the Queenes affaires whose great expences and Royall Army they had seene vanish into smoke and were besides exasperated with an old griefe to be excluded themselues from the Gouernement while English Deputies were daily sent to command them And hauing intelligence that Tyrone full of pride did euery where bost himselfe as Champion of the Iish Liberty and Romish Religion euery where receiuing to his protection and cherishing all seditious persons helping the weake with succours confirming the diffident with strong hopes and that he was growne confident to roote out the English Gouernement aswell by former successes as by the succour of the King of Spaine who already had sent him some munition and a little mony with bragging promises of greater supplies and by the faire promises and large indulgences sent from the Pope with a Crowne of Phoenix fethers perhaps in imitation of Pope Vrban the third who sent Iohn the sonne to King Henry the second then made Lord of Ireland a little Crowne wouen of Peacocks feathers Her Maiestie I say hauing these aduertisements finding thereby that it was high time to make strong opposition to this rebellious monster made choice of Charles Blonnt Lord Mountioy to be Deputy of Ireland whom her Highnesse had the last yeere purposed to imploy in that place At which time the Earle of Essex though linked in neere friendship with him yet secretly opposed this her Maiesties determination alleaging that the Lord Mountioy had small experience in martiall affaires saue that he had gained in the small time he serued in the Low-Countries adding that he was too bookish
our men did beate them off and brought with them great store of Corne and wood and killed diuers of them In the meane time their sconts on the other side being somewhat busie with ours Neal Oquin was taken prisoner being the chiefe fauourite vnto Tyrone The next day we beganne to worke in the building of the Fort and to impeach our worke the rogues beganne to skirmish with vs on both sides which was excellently maintained by some few of our men that we sent out We saw many of them killed and after vnderstood they lost a great number whereof many were horsemen of the best sort that had lighted to incourage their men to fight They were then so well beaten as they would neuer after offer to meddle with vs till our returne by Carlingford The ninth of Nouember the Fort being finished his Lordship called it Mount Norreys in honour of his Master so he tearmed him vnder whom hee had serued his apprentiship in the warres and he left therein foure hundred foot vnder the command of Captaine Edward Blaney with six weekes prouision of victuals The weather grew so extreame as it blew downe all our Tents and tore them in pieces and killed many of our horses so that the tenth day his Lordship putting all the Army in armes with all the Drummes and Trumpets and a great volly of shot proclaimed Tyrones head with promise of 2000. pound to him that brought him aliue and 1000. pound to him that brought him dead which was done in the face of his own army and so his Lordship marched to the Newry He had purposed to plant a garrison at Armagh 8. miles beyond Mount Norryes but the rebels Cowes had eaten vp all the grasse thereabouts which should haue fed our horses and the time of the yeere with the weather was now vnseasonable for that purpose And whereas his Lordship was resolued to returne into the Pale by Carlingford to discerne whether that way or the way of the Moyry were more safe that the army might not runne so continuall hazards this resolution was now confirmed by necessity there being victuals at Carlingford and none at the Newry or Dundalke The twelfth of Nouember his Lordship came with the army to the narrow water whence he sent Sir Iosias Bodley with three hundred choyce foot to possesse a peece of ground and keepe the enemy from hindering our passage ouer the water the streame whereof he found so exceeding swift that it was like to be dangerous to venture our horses ouer The first that tried was Doctor Latware his Lordships Chaplaine who only with his horse led by the boat side and with some thirty foot went ouer but his Lordship perceiued so great difficulty by his passage that he passed the foot ouer as fast as might be sent Sir Henry Folliot to possesse the pace of the Faddome and made all the Horse and our Garrons to goe about that way In the meane time wee might see the rebels forces draw ouer the mountaines towards the pace of Carlingford and come close by our men that were first landed yet they neuer offered any skermish That night we encamped directly ouer the narrow water betweene the pace of the faddome and the pace of Carlingford hauing at midnight gotten ouer for our men some vittels that came by water from Carlingford his Lordship caused the same to be deliuered before day for the Army had fasted two daies and after they had eaten but a little bisket and cheese or butter neuer men went on in a greater iollity The thirteenth of Nouember we were to rise very early for otherwise we could not passe our carriages by the sea side as we had determined and by breake of day the Scoutmaster brought word that Tyrone with all his army was lodged in the pace which is an exceeding thicke wood at the foote of a great mountaine reaching downe to the sea side betweene which and the sea there is in most places as much space as seuen may march in ranke but in some places lesse and in some none at full water but onely there is a narrow deepe high way through the wood Captaine Thomas Roper with the broken Companies sent out of the Pale went on as a forlone hope and that day by course it fell out that Captaine Beniamin Berry with the Lord Deputies Regiment vnder his command had the vanguard Sir Christopher S t Laurence had the reare of the vanguard Sir Richard Moryson had the vanguard of the Rere and Sir Samuell Bagnoll the reare of the reare so that we had but two bodies a vanguard and a rere thus subdiuided Captaine Treuor with as many as Captaine Roper had in the point led a forlorne rere Out of all the regiments his Lordship appointed three strong wings to goe on the right hand for on the left hand was the Sea commanded all by Captaines the first by Captaine Billings the second by Captaine Esmond and the last by Captaine Constable The ground the rebels chiesely chose to make good was a little Plaine like a semicircle whereof the Sea made the Diameter and a thicke Wood the Circumference At the next corner to vs there ran into the Sea a Riuer out of the wood being a Foard of good aduantage to the enemie All along the circumference they had made diuers trenches euen close vp to both the corners and at the furthest corner they had made a Barricado reaching a good way into the Wood and downe to the Sea At the first they shewed themselues horse and foote vpon this Plaine but when his Lordship commanded ours to giue on which they performed presently and roundly their horse drew off into the Woods and their foote into their trenches and neuer shot till the Vanguard was drawne ouer the Riuer when from all partes they powred vpon vs great vollyes of shot but presently Captaine Roper gaue on the farthest trench on the right hand of the corner Captaine Billings on the next with the wing hee led and Captaine Berry with the rest of the Vanguard gaue vpon the farthest corner where the Barricado reached from the Wood into the Sea In some of them they made good resistance and many of them lost their liues with the Pike and the Sword But the last trench where they made greatest shew of opposition they did soonest quit though it were strongest for them and to greatest purpose to arrest vs the reason his Lordship conceiued to be that in that place they were furthest from their retreat and feared the forlorne Hope and Wing led by Captaine Billings might cut betweene them When we had gained the trenches the Vanguard made a stand in the Rere of which to countenance them if there had been occasion his Lordship stood with a troope of horse of voluntarie Gentlemen and next to his Lordship betweene the Van and next bodies of foote Sir Henrie Dauers and his Lordships troopes of of horse At this time they entertained skermish with
worthily and all things prospered vnder his worke she would not giue incouragement to the Rebels by his absence whom his presence had so daunted The List of the Army and the distribution of the same into Garrisons in the end of Nouember Twelue Colonels of the Armie The Earle of Thomond Lord Dunkellin Sir Henrie Dockowra Sir Arthur Chichester Sir Henrie Power Sir Charles Percy Sir Matthew Morgan Sir Christopher Saint Laurence Sir Charles Wilmot Sir Arthur Sauage Sir Richard Moryson Sir Iohn Bolles Foote at Carickfergus Sir Arthur Chichester Gouernour 150. Sir Foulk Conway 150. Captaine Richard Croftes 100. Captaine Charles Egerton 100. Captaine Gregorie Norton 100. Horse Sir Arthur Chichester 25. Captaine Iohn Iephson 100. Foote at Mount Norreys Captaine Edward Blaney Gouernour 150 Sir Samuel Bagnol 150. Captaine Henrie Athyerton 150. Horse at the Newry Sir Samuel Bagnol Gouernour 50. Foote Sir Oliuer Saint Iohns 150. Sir Francis Stafford 200. Captaine Iosias Badley 150. Captaine Edward Treuer 100. Captaine Edward Fisher 100. Captaine Rauenscroft 100. Foote at Carlingford Captaine Richard Hansard 100. Foote at Dundalke Sir Richard Moryson Gouernour 150. Sir Henrie Dauers 150. Captaine Tobie Cafeild 150. Captaine Ferdinand Freckleton 100. Captaine Ralph Constable 100. Horse Sir Henrie Dauers 50. Foote at Arde. Sir Charles Percy 150. Sir Garret More 100. Captaine Thomas Mynne 100. Captaine Thomas Williams 150. Captaine Francis Roe 100. Horse Sir Henrie Dauers 50. Sir Garret More 25. Foote at Ballymore Sir Francis Shane 100. Captaine Thomas Roper 150. Captaine Rotheram 100. At Mullingar The Lord of Deluin 150 Foote Sir Christopher Saint Laurence 25 Horse At the Nauan Sir Thomas Maria Wingfeild 150 Foote The Lord Deputie 100 Horse Foote at Drogheda Captaine Billings 100. Captaine Linley 100. Captaine Iefferey Dutton 100. Captaine Morice 100. Captaine Bentley 100. Foote at Trymme Sir Christopher Saint Laurence 150. Sir Edward Harbert 100. Captaine Yeluerton 100. Foote at Kelles The Lord of Dunsany 150. Captaine Hugh Orely 100. Horse Lord of Dunsany 50. Foote at Aboy Clancary and the Castles of Ophalia Sir Henrie Folliot 150. Captaine Lionel Guest 150. oir Henrie Warren 100. Foote in the Fort of the Dingon and at the Nasse Sir George Bourcher 100. The Lord Dunkellin 150. Sir Henrie Harrington 100. Captaine Thomas Boyse 100. Horse at New castle Captaine Daughtrey 50. Sir Henrie Harrington 25. At Athey Reban and the borders of Leax Sir Henrie Poore 150. Sir Iames Fitzpiers 150. Master Marshel 150. Captaine Philips 100. Sir Thomas Loftus 100 Foote The Marshall 50 Horse Foote in the Forts Sir Francis Rush 150. Foote in Occarrals Countrie Captaine Mollrony Ocarrol 100. Foote and Horse in Kilkenny The Earle of Ormond Lieutenant of the Armie 150. Captaine Marbery 100 Foote The Earle of Ormond 50 Horse Foote and Horse in Kildare The Earle of Kildare 150 Foote The Earle of Kildare 50 Horse Foote and Horse in the Countie of Waxford Sir Olin'r Lambert 150. Captaine Iohn Master son 100. Captaine Esmond 150 Foote Sir Oliuer Lambert 25 Horse Foote at Dublin The Lord Deputies Guard commanded by Captaine Berry 150. Foote and Horse in Connaght Sir Arthur Sauage Gouernour 150. The Earle of Clanrickard 150. Sir Thomas Bourk 150 Sir Tibbot Dillon 100 Captaine Clare 150. Captaine Tibot Nelong 100. Captaine Thomas Bourgh 100 Foote The Earle of Clanrickard 50. The Lord Dunkellin 25. The Marshall of the Prouince 12 Horse Horse in the Pale at the Captaines disposall neere themselues or attending their persons Sir Edward Harbert 12. Sir William Warren 25. Sir Iohn Barkley 12. Captaine Rich. Greame 50. Captaine Garret Fleming 25. Captaine Pigot 12. Captaine Darcy 25. At Loughsoyle a remote Garrison vnder Sir Henrie Dockwra his command Sir Henrie Dockwra 50 Sir Iohn Bolles 50 Horse Foote vnder 25 Captaines 2900. In the Prouince of Mounster at the Lord Presidents disposall The Lord President 50. Sir Anthony Cooke 50 Captaine William Taaf 25 Horse Foot der 23 Captaines 2800. Totall of Horse 1198. Totall of Foote 14150. From Dundalke the Lord Deputy with his seruants and voluntary horsemen rode to Dublin the seuenteenth of Nouember Within few dayes vpon Sir Arthur Sauage his intreatic to goe for England about his priuate affaires his Lordship gaue him licence and appointed Sir Iohn Barkely to supplie his place of Prouisionarie Gouernour of the Prouince of Connaght At the same time his Lordship wrote into England for authoritie to passe vnto certaine submitties their Countries with reseruation of her Maiesties rights and some other conditions for her profit and seruice more particularly on the behalfe of Connor Roe Mac Guyre who being put from the Chiefery of his Country by Tyrone had quitted al his possessions and goods to come to the Queenes seruice when Tyrone had two of his sonnes for pledges of which the elder lately escaping from the rebels had likewise submitted himselfe and they both had serued valiantly in the late Northerne iourney so as the father had his horse killed vnder him and the sonne killed three rebels with his owne hand And from thence both going into Fermanagh had drawne many of that Country to follow them in the Queenes seruice diuerting all the Countrie from assisting Tyrone Besides that in a late skirmish they had taken Cormock Tyrones brothers eldest sonne a young man of the greatest hope in the North whom the Rebels purposed to create Oneale after Tyrones death for which respect he was a better pledge then any of Tyrones sons This youth they had brought to the Lord Deputy with great hazard to conuoy him and that when 3000. pound and other ample conditions were offered them for his ransome In the same moneth of Nouember many of the Northerne Rebels with great troops among them a Mounster man Piers Lacy of English race a famous rebell drew into the Brenny meaning to passe to the Shannon side and so into Mounster after they had strengthened the broken rebels of the Pale with some assistance But this their passage was so stopped as it tooke no effect The sixth of December his Lordship was aduertised from an honourable friend in Court that his late proceedings were mentioned by all men with much honour and most of all by the Queen who vttered to himselfe the most gracious and kind speeches of his Lordship and the most extolling his valour and worthy parts that euer he had heard her vse of any Till this time the rebels of the Mountaines neere Dublyn called the Glinnes gaue allarums almost euery night in the Suburbes of Dublyn But the time when the insolency of some of them should bee chastened was now come The Obirnes hauing Phelim mac Feogh the chiefe of their Sept after the death of Feogh mac Hugh formerly mentioned inhabited the Glinnes bordering on the plaines of Dublyn extending some foure or fiue miles that way and these being neerer then the O Tooles and other their confederates were most insolent vpon that City and the Counsell there residing when the Lord Deputy was farre off in
his Captaines whereof some preferred by the Earle might perhaps haue hollow hearts towardes her seruice for as shee was pleased to pardon those who by his popular fashion and outward profession of his sincerity had beene seduced and blindly led by him so shee was carefull to seuer the chaffe from the corne and to depriue the malicious of meanes to preiudice her seruice Secondly whereas the Secretary in his Lordships name had moued her Maiesty that he might haue warrant to come ouer yet in regrad the Spanish ships had not yet passed the narrow seas into Flaunders whether surely they were sent and nothing lesse then for Ireland howsoeuer the Traytor made vse of like rumors her Maiesty wished that hee would conceale this his desire for a time with promise to call him home the next winter and vse his seruice neere her person The same time his Lordship receiued Letters from the Lords in England giuing allowance in her Maiesties name for the passing of Tirconnell to Neale Garne vpon the aboue mentioned conditions yet aduising that hereafter no Countrey should so absolutely bee passed as all the inhabitants should depend vpon one man which would still kindle new flames of rebellion By the same Letters his Lordship vnderstood that the supplies of money victuals and munitions were ready according to his demands And their Lordships aduised the plantation of a garrison about Strangford to preuent the assistance which the Scots gaue to the Rebels The third of March his Lordship rode ten miles to Bally Britton Sir Henry Warrens house in Leax which was kept for the Queene by a Constable and Warders In the midway we passed by Phillipstowne otherwise called Dyngen a strong Fort in Ophalia otherwise called the Kings County and that day his Lordship sent out many parties of souldiers into the woods against Tirrell and the Oconnors scatteredly lurking in those parts Here his Lordship receiued from the Lords directions to 〈◊〉 the siluer mony and to proclaime a new coine three ounces fine which base money was sent ouer onely to impouerish the Rebels as was pretended who made warre against the Queene with her owne treasure but in conclusion it was the vndoing of all the Queenes seruants there for no man cared to lay it vp and all things were bought at excessiue rates after the exchange in England once failed This exchange was proclaimed to be held at three Cities in England and foure in Ireland but by reason that great summes were coyned by Rebels and strangers and for other abuses of the same as namely of the Merchants who notwithstanding that the money was duly changed did excessiuely raise all prices this exchange soone failed and our hearts therewith for we serued there in discomfort and came home beggars so that onely the Treasurers and Paymasters who were thereby infinitely inriched had cause to blesse the Authors of this inuention The fourth of March his Lordship rode fiue miles to Sir Edward Fitzgeralds house scituate in Meath in a pleasant and fruitfull Countrey The fifth of March we rode ten miles to Mormeere a very pleasant house belonging to Sir Iames Dillon and thence the next day two miles further to Trym Sir Richard Moryson Gouernonr of Dundalke had lately aduertised his Lordship that Turloghmac Henry Tyrones brother Captaine of the Fewes had taken his oath to him before a Priest and vpon a Masse booke that he would submit himselfe to her Maiesties mercy without any conditions at or before S t Patricks day next following And further had aduertised that the Lord of Clancaruin humbly desired to be receiued to mercy with him For better ratifying hereof the said S r Richard Moryson now brought the said Turlogh in person to his Lordship lying at Trim. The fifteenth of March his Lordship drew to Arbrachin the Bishop of Meaths house sixe miles distant where his Lordship had appointed the adioining garrisons to meete him the next day and presently after their arriuall his Lordship tooke horse towards euening and thence we marched all night being very darke and in the morning suddenly fell into the Ferney the possession whereof Euer Mac Cooly one of the Mac Mabowns then vsurped and there we burnt the houses and spoiled the goods of the Inhabitants Sir Richard Moryson Gouernour of Dundalke with that Garrison and Sir Oliuer Lambert with other troopes and Captaine Thomas Williams with the forces of Ardee comming in diuers wayes meeting his Lordship in that Countrey with small or no resistance made by the rebels to either party The nineteenth we marched fiue miles to Ardee the twentieth seuen miles to Mellisant Sir Edward Mores house the twenty one two miles to Drogedagh where his Lordship staied till the sixteenth of Aprill and so returned to Dublyn At Drogedagh his Lordship altered the list of the foot the horse standing still as before The disposall of the foot into garrisons the 23. of March 1600. At the Newry vnder Sir Oliner S t Iohns 750. At Carlingford Captaine Hansard 100. At Mount Norreys vnder Sir Samuell Bagnoll 450. At Dundalke vnder S r Richard Moryson 400. At Arde a refreshing but no standing garrison 350. At Luscanon 400. At Tullogh 350. At Wickloa 250 At the Nauan 300. At the Nasse 100. In Westmeath 450. In Ophalia 200. In Leax 300. At Athy 100. At Monastreuen 300. In Connaght Sir Iohn Barkely Deputy Gouernor 200. The Lord of Dunkellin now vpon his fathers death Earle of Clanrickard 150. More vnder foure Captaines 500. Foot in Galloway and Odoynes Countrey Three Captaines 400. Capt. Tho Roper 150. At Rebon 150. In Ocarrols Country 100. In In 〈◊〉 150. At Dablyn the Lord Deputies guard 200. At Carickfergus vnder Sir Arthur Chichester 550. Of new Companies 1150. being cast and 50. made ouer to 〈◊〉 Garrison remained 800. Of S r Charles Percies Company 100 were made 〈◊〉 to other Captaines and 50 were added to Loughsoyle garrison These Companies together with the foot in 〈◊〉 at Loughsoyle do make the new list of foot 13250. Her Maiesties charge in Ireland from the first of Aprill in the beginning of the yeere 1600. to the last of March in the beginning of the yeere 1601. Her Maiesties allowances by establishment and by her letters for increase amount to two hundred seuenty sixe thousand nine hundred foureteen li nine s. foure d. ob qu. demy Hereof saued by the Lord Deputy his prouidence fifteene thousand two hundred sixty two l. fixe s. fiue d. Saued also by Checks imposed on the Army seuenteene thousand twenty nine pound sixteenes nine d. ob So her Maiesties charge for the Army this yeere besides munition and like extraordinaries amounteth to two hundred thirty foure thousand six hundred twenty two li. fiue s. two d. qu. demy It remaines briefly to collect out of the Lord Presidents letters to the Lord Deputy the seruices done in Mounster the yeere 1600. now ended About the sixteenth of Aprill in the beginning of the yeere 1600. Sir George
next day were sent to Corke This night Sir Iohn Barkeley went out with some three hundred foot hauing with him Captaine Flower Captaine Morris and Captaine Bostocke and fell into the Spaniards trenches and did beate them to the Towne fell into the gate with them and killed and hurt aboue twenty of the Spaniards hauing but three hurt of our men Hitherto we lodged in Cabbins so as it rained vpon vs in our beds and when we changed our shirts The sixe and twenty the Army dislodged and incamped on an hill on the North-side before Kinsale called the Spittle somewhat more then musket shot from the Towne and there intrenched strongly When we fat downe we discouered that the Spaniards had gotten a prey of two hundred or three hundred Cowes and many sheepe which were in an Iland as it seemed vpon the South-east side of the Towne beyond the water which wee could not passe but by going eight or nine mile about where there was a necke of land to goe into it Captaine Taffe being sent with horse and foot vsed such expedition in that businesse as he attained the place before night and 〈◊〉 hot skirmish recouered the prey saue onely some twenty Cowes that the Spaniards had killed although they were vnder the guard of a Castle called Castle Ny Parke which the Spaniards had in possession The disposall of the whole Army in Ireland the seuen and twentieth of October 1601. Left at Loughfoyle Sir Henry Dockwra 50. Sir Iohn Bolles 50. Horse 100. Sir Henry Dockwra 200. Sir Matthew Morgan 150. Captaine Badby 150. S r Iohn Bolles 150. Captaine Erington 100. Captaine Vaughan 100. Captaine Bingley 150. Captaine Coach 100. Captaine Basset 100. Captaine Dutton 100. Captaine Floyde 100. Captaine Oram 100. Captaine Alford 100. Captaine Pinner 100. Captaine Winsor 100. Captaine Sydley 100. Captaine Atkinson 100. Captaine Digges 100. Captaine Brooke 100. Captaine Stafford 100. Captaine Orrell 100. Captaine Letgh 100. Captaine Sidney 100. Captaine Gower 150. Captaine Willes 150. Captaine W. N. 100. Foote 3000. Horse left at Carickfergus Sir Arthur Chichester Gouernour 50. Captaine Iohn Iephson 100. Horse 150. Foote left at Carickfergus Sir Arthur Chichester Gouernour 200. Sir Foulke Conway 150. Captaine Egerton 100. Captaine Norton 100. Captaine Billings 150. Captaine Phillips 150. Foote 850. Foote left in Lecale Sir Richard Moryson the Gouernours Company vnder his Lieutenant himselfe attending the Lord Deputy at Kinsale 150. Horse left in Northerne Garrisons At the Newrie Sir Francis Stafford 50. At Mount Norreys Sir Samuel Bagnol 50. Horse 100. Foote in the North Garrisons At the Newrye Sir Francis Stafford 200. At Dundalke Captaine Freckleton 100. At Carlingford Captaine Hansard 100. At Mount Norreys Captaine Atherton 100. At Arinagh Sir Henrie Dauers vnder his Lieutenant himselfe being at Kinsale 150. At Blackwater Captaine Thomas Williams 150. Foote 800. Horse left in the Pale and places adioyning In Kilkenny the Earle of Ormond 50. In Kildare the Earle of Kildare 50. In West-meath the Lord of Dunsany 50. In Lowth Sir Garret Moore 25. Horse 175. Foote in the Pale At Kilkenny the Earle of Ormond 150. Captaine Iohn Masterson 100. Captaine Thomas Butler 100. At Carlogh Sir Christopher Saint Laurence 150. Sir Francis Shane 100. Sir Tilbot Dillon 100. Sir Edward Fitz Garret 100. Sir Henrie Harington 100. Sir Richard Greame 100. At the Nasse Sir Laurence Esmond 150. In Ophalia Sir George Bourcher 100. Sir Edwird Harbert 100. Sir Henrie Warren 100. In Leax Fort Sir Francis Rush 150. To be placed by the Counsell at Dublin Sir Henrie Power vnder his Lieutenant himselfe being at Kinsale 150. Sir Samuel Bagnol 150. Sir William Warren 100. Captaine Guest 150 Captaine Cawfeild 150. At Kildare the Earle of Kildare 100. Captaine Ocarrol in his Countrie 100. At Kelles the Lord of Dunsany 150. In West-meath the Lord of Deluin 150. Captaine Mac Henry 100. At Ardee Sir Garret Meere 100. Captaine N. N. 150. Foote 3150. Horse left in Cònnaght The Earle of Clanrickard 50. Captaine Wayman 12. Horse 62. Foote left in Connaght Sir Oliuer Lambert Gouernour 150. The Earle of Clanrickard 150. Sir Thomas Bourk 150. Captaine Clare 150. Captaine Thomas Bourk 100. Captaine Malbye 150. Captaine Tybbot ne Long 100. Captaine Dauy Bourke 100. A Company void for the Iudges pay 100. Foote 1150. Totall of Horse 587. Totall of Foote 9100. The Lyst of the Army with his Lordship at Kinsale The old Mounster Lyst Sir George Carew Lord President 50. Sir Anthony Cooke 50. Captaine Fleming 25. Captaine William Taffe 50. Horse 175. Foote of the old Lyst The Lord President 150. The Earle of Thomond 150. Lord Barry 100. Lord Audley 150. Sir Charles Wilmot 150. Master Treasurer 100. Captaine Roger Haruey 150. Captaine Thomas Spencer 150. Captaine George Flower 100. Captaine William Saxey 100. Captaine Garret Dillon 100. Captaine Nuse 100. Sir Richard Percy 150. Sir Francis Barkeley 100. Captaine Power 100. A Company for the Earle of Desmonds vse 100. Foote 1950. New Companies sent into Mounster lately which arriued and were put into pay the fourth of September past The Lord President added to his Company 50. The Earle of Thomond added to his Company 50. Sir George Thorneton 100. Captaine Skipwith 100. Captaine Morris 100. Captaine Kemish 100 Captaine North 100. Captaine Owslye 100. Captaine Fisher 100. Captaine Yorke 100. Captaine Hart 100. Captaine Lisle 100. Captaine Rauenseroft 100. Cap. Rich. Hansard 100. Captaine George Greame 100. Captaine Yeluerton 100. Captaine Panton 100. Captaine Cullom 100. Captaine Hobby 100. Captaine Gowen Haruy 100. Captaine Coote 100. Foote 2000. Horse brought from the North and the Pale to Kinsale The Lord Deputies troope 100. Sir Henrie Dauers 100. Master Marshall 50. Sir Christopher Saint Laurence 25. Sir Henrie Harrington 25. Sir Edward Harbert 12. Sir William Warren 25. Sir Richard Greame 50. Sir Oliuer Saint Iohns 25. Sir Francis Rush 12. Captaine George Greame 12. Horse 436. Foote that Sir Iohn Barkeley brought from the borders of Connaght to Kinsale Sir Iohn Barkley 200. Sir Arthur Sauage 150. Sir Oliuer Saint Iohns 200. Sir Iohn Dowdall 100. Captaine Kingsmill 100. Captaine George Blount 100. Captaine Bosteck 100. Foote 950. Foote brought out of the Pale by Master Marshall and from the Northerne Garrisons by Sir Henry Dauers to Kinsale The Lord Deputies Guard 200. Master Marshall 150. Sir Beniamin Berry 150. Sir William Fortescue 150. Sir Iames Fitz-piers 150. Sir Thomas Loftus 100. Sir Henrie Follyet 150. Captaine Edward Blany 150. Captaine Iosias Bodley 150. Captaine Rotheram 150. Captaine Thomas Roper 150. Captaine Roe 150. Captaine Treuer 100. Captaine Ralph Constable 100. Foote 2000. At Kinsale Horse 611. Foote 6900. Totall of the whole Army in Ireland Horse 1198. Foote 16000. Of the sixe thousand nine hundred foote at Kinsale in Mounster one Company of one hundred was conuerted to the Earle of Desmonds vse who was then kept in England and some were placed vpon the borders of the Prouince to bee a stay to the Countrie And all the
answere at the gate that they held the Town first for Chhist and next for the King of Spaine and so would defend it Contratanti Vpon his returne with this answere the Lord Deputy commanded to make battery with all our Artillery planted all on the East side of the Towne which was presently performed and continuing till towards night brake downe great part of the East gate In the meane time the Spaniards being retired in great numbers into their trenches on the West side to escape the fury of our Ordinance on the East side Sir Christopher S. Laurence was commanded to draw out from our new Campe on the West side and to giue vpon them in their trenches which he performed and did beat them out of the Trenches following them to the very gates of the Towne killing many and hurting more of them and so returned without losse of a man on our side hauing onely some few hurt The nine twentieth all our Artillery plaied vpon the Town and brake downe most part of the Easterne gate and some part of a new worke the Enemy had made before the gate This day two Spaniards wrote from Kinsale to some of their friends prisoners in our Campe whom they stiled poore Souldiers when we knew them to be men of accompt and withall sent them such money as they wanted yet vnder the title of Almes as if they had neither mony of their owne nor were of credit to be trusted for any The last day of Nouember Sir Richard Wingfield the Marshall tooke some fifty shot and went to the wall of the Towne to view the fittest place for vs to make a breach the Spaniasds made a light skirmish with them and hurt some few The Marshall when he had well viewed the wall drew the shot off and iudging the wall close to the Easterne gate on the right hand to be fittest for the making of a breach he gaue present order that our artillery should beat vpon that place which was done without intermission and therewith we brake downe before night a great part of the wall which the Enemy in the night attempted to make vp againe but was beaten from it by our Guards who plaied vpon them with small shot most part of the night In the euening a Spaniard ranne away from Kinsale to our campe who reported to the Lord Deputy that our Artillery had killed diuers Captaines and Officers in the Towne besides many priuate souldiers The first of December it was resolued in Counsell of State and by the Counsell of Warre namely the chiefe Commanders and Colonels that some foote should bee drawne out of the campe to giue the Spaniard a brauado and to view if the breach we had made were assaultable and also to cause the Spaniards to shew themseues that our Artillery might the better play vpon them To this purpose two thousand foot commanded by Sir Iohn Barkeley the Sergiant Maior and Captaine Edward Blany were presently put in Armes and drawne neere the wals of the Towne who entertained a very hot skirmish with the Spaniards who were lodged in a trench close to the breach without the Towne During this skirmish our Artillery plaied vpon those that shewed themselues either in the breach or in the trench and killed many of them besides such as were killed and hurt by our small shot Among the rest on Captaine Moryson a Spaniard of whom as one of the pledges vpon the composition we shal haue cause to speake hereafter walked crosse the breach animating his men and though S r Richard Wingfield our Marshall caused many both great and smal shot to be made at him with promise of 20 pound to him that should hit him or beat him off whereupon many great shot did beat the durt in his face and stories about his eares yet all the skirmish he continued walking in this braue manner without receiuing any hurt Many thinke them best souldiers who are often and dangerously hurt but it is an errour for wounds are badges of honour yet may befall the coward assoone as the valiant man and I haue knowne most aduenmrous men who neuer receiued wound Pardon this my digression not warrantable in a iournall I will onely adde that braue souldiers for the starres haue a kinde of power in our birth are by some secret influence preserued when others intruding themselues into that course of life or driuen to it by necessity of estate fall at the first allarum And to speake theologically God preserues vs but stil in our waies so as he who without calling rushes into another way then his own hath no warrant of diuine protection After an howers fight when we had taken full view of the breach and found it not assaultable our men were drawne off with little or no dammage on our part onely three of our men were hurt and Captaine Guests Horse was killed vnder him which Captaine first had killed two Spaniards with his owne hand The same day it was resolued in counsell to plant a Fort on a Rath on the West side of the Towne to lodge therein some foote for seconds to the guard of our artillery intended to be planted neere the same And to this purpose in the night following the Marshall the Sergiant Maior Captaine Edward Blany and Captaine Iosias Bodley Trenchmaster the Lord Deputy being almost all night present with them drew out fiue and twenty of each company and intrenching themselues on the said hill not halfe Calliuers shot from the Towne beganne to cast vp a small Fort. And though the Spaniards perceiued not their purpose yet many of them lying in a trench they possessed close to the West gate did play very hotly all night on our men guarding the Pyoners and ours did no lesse on them so that diuers were hurt and killed on both sides But the second day of December about nine in the morning when a great myst beganne to breake and they discouered our worke a yard high then from the said Trenches and more from the Castles and high places in the Towne they plied vs all the day with small shot Notwithstanding which annoyance our men brought the work to very good perfection before night In the meane time a Serieant to Captaine Blany drew out some seuen or eight shot and suddenly fell into a Trench which some Spaniards possessed close by the Towne of whom the Serieant killed two and each of the rest one with their owne hands But when not content therewith they attempted another Trench something distant from the first the Serieant in going on was shot through the body and two of his Company were hurt in bringing him off and so returned with this and no more losse This night the Trenches where the Cannon was planted on the East side of the Towne were manned with the Lord Deputies guard commanded by Captaine Iames Blount with Sir Thomas Bourkes Company and Sir Beniamin Berries company both commanded by their Lieftenants by Captaine Rotherams company
Campe presently aduertised the Lord Deputy thereof and his Lordship being alwaies in readinesse to intertaine them seldome going to bed by night and at this time as I said setting in Counsell when he heard that they were aduanced within three quarters of a mile to our Campe caused all our men to draw into Armes in the quarter and himselfe with the Marshall attending him aduanced towards our scouts whence he sent the Marshall Sir Richard Wingfeild to take view of the enemy and hee brought him word that they were in the same place formerly aduertised Vpon his returne the Lord Deputie left for defence of the great Campe on the Northside his Lordships owne Regiment vnder his Lieutenant Sir Beniamin Berry the Lord Presidents Regiment who was in his Lordships absence to command both Camps in chiefe the Earle of Clanrickards Regiment the Lord Audlie his Regiment and Sir Richard Moryson his Regiment This done the Lord Depuputie sent a Corporall of the field vnto our lesser Campe or quarter commanded by the Earle of Thomond and gaue order there for disposing the foure Regiments of the Earle of Thomond Sir Richard Percy Sir Charles Wilmot and Sir Christopher Saint Laurence and directed how to set all the Companies in their seuerall guards In former notes I finde Sir Richard Percies Regiment quartered in the Earle of Thomonds Campe but here I find it reckoned among them of the greater Campe and the Earle of Clanrickards Regiment in this lesser Campe whereof I remember not the certaintie but am sure how soeuer they had been changed that the Regiments for number were at this time thus disposed in the two Campes By this time the Marshall with some foure hundred horse and Sir Henrie Powers Regiment being to answere Alarums and so drawne out at this time as they had been for three nights before on like occasion was aduanced within twenty score of the enemie the ground rising so high betweene them and our men as they could not see one the other It was now the breake of day whereas mid-night was the time appointed for the Rebels to meete with Don Isans forces the Spaniard being to set vpon our lesser Campe or the Earle of Thomonds Quarter and Tyrrell leading the Rebels Vantguard in which were the Spaniards lately landed at Castle-Hauen and Tyrone leading their Battaile and O Donnell their Reare being all to set vpon our chiefe Campe conceiuing themselues of sufficient strength to force both our Campes at one instant and to make no great worke of it The Lord Deputy with the Lord President in his company being come vp to our forces led out against Tyrone and resoluing there to giue him battaile commanded Sir Iohn Barkeley Serieant Maior to draw out of the Campe the two Regiments of Sir Oliuer Saint Iohns and Sir Henry Follyot Vpon their comming vp the enemy finding vs resolued to fight retyred himselfe ouer a Foard and the Marshall seeing them disordered in their retrait sent word thereof by Sir Froncis Rush to the Lord Deputie desiring leaue to fight and his Lordship by Sir Samuel Bagnol gaue him leaue to order that seruice according as hee in his discretion should find the disposition of the enemie and therewith sent backe Sir George Carew Lord President with three troopes of horse to the great Campe to command both Camps in chiefe and to make head against the Spaniards if they should sally out of the Towne But the Spaniards still expecting the comming vp of the Rebels according to their mutuall proiect and neuer imagining that wee with our small forces could draw out sufficient bands to meete and beate the Rebels contained themselues within the towne walles till as by the sequell shall appeare their sailies could little profit them After the said message sent to the Marshall presently the Earle of Clanrickard came vp and exceedingly importuned the Marshall to fight Whereupon the Marshall drew a Squadron of foote with their Drumme to the Foard and willed Sir Richard Greame with his horse to march directly to the Foard Then the enemy retired hastily with horse and foote ouer a boggy ground to firme land hoping to keepe that boggie passage against vs Then the Marshall directed Sir Henry Dauers commanding the horse vnder him with his horse and Sir Henrie Power with his Regiment of foot to aduance who presently came ouer the foresaid Foard vnto him The Lord Deputy being vpon the hill with two Regiments of foote commanded the Serieant Maior there attending him to second our men with those foote So the Marshall hauing the Earle of Clanrickard and Sir Henrie Dauers with him aduanced with some hundred horse and began with a hundred Harqubufiers led by Lieutenant Cowel a valiant Gentleman marked by a red cap he wore to be a special instrumēt in this fight to giue occasion of skirmish on the Bog side which the rebels with some loose shot entertained their three Batallions standing firme on the one side of the Bog and our Fort on the otherside In this skirmish our foot were put vp hard to our horse which the Marshall perceiuing put forth more shot which made the Rebels retire towards their Battaile Then the Moshiall finding a way through a Foard to the ground where the Rebels stood he possessed the same with some foote and presently he passed ouer with the Earle of Clanrickard Sir Richard Greames Captaine Tasse and Captaine Fleming and their horse and offered to charge one of the Rebels Battailes of one thousand eight hundred men but finding them stand firme our horse wheeled about Now Sir Henrie Dauers with the rest of the horse Sir William Godolphin with the Lord Deputies and Captaine Minshall with the Lord Presidents troopes kept by the Lord Deputie to answere all accidents and our Serieant Maior with two Regiments sent by the Lord Deputy to second the Regiment of Sir Henrie Power being with the Marshall came all vp whereupon the Marshall with the horse charged home vpon the Reare of the Battaile and the Irish not vsed to fight in plaine ground and something amazed with the blowing vp of a Gun-powder bagge they hauing vpon the like fright defeated the English of old at Blackwater but most discouraged to see their horse flie being all Chiefes of Septs and Gentlemen to the number of fiue or sixe hundred were suddenly routed and our men followed the execution The other two Battailes that stood stil now finding this routed made haste to succour them Whereupon the Lord Deputy sent instantly Captaine Francis Roe with Sir Oliuer Saint Iohns Regiment of which he was Lieutenant Colonell to charge on the Flanck of the Vanguard which presently retired disorderly being followed by our foote and horse but the Spaniards landed at Castle-Hauen marching there and being not so good of foote as the Irish drew out by themselues yet were by Sir William Godolphin leading the Lord Deputies troope soone broken and most of them killed the rest with their chiefe Commander Don Alonzo
had been so burthensome as for the present it was fit to forbeare them That in all grants to the submitting rebels they required his Lordship to haue care that they were not so absolute as they should not be in awe of the State or bee able to tyrannise ouer their neighbours and particularly that any treason of the Pattentees should forfeit all the grant That Irish Companies should not bee imployed neere their owne home especially in any great numbers neither should haue any pay for apparrell there being no reason that their pay should bee equall to that of the English Lastly to the end the Submitties might not abuse her Maiesties mercy to their temporising ends as they had often done by reuolts into rebellion after submissions and Protections their Lordships required that as euery chiefe rebell was taken in so they should be disarmed But this last point was not effected for this consideration that by that meanes euery chiefe Lord vpon submission should leaue his Country without defence and open to be spoiled both by neighbouring rebels and theeuish subiects It is true that after all the warre fully ended a generall disarming had been requisite but the euent will shew how that was after neglected in the proper time when the first act was casting the English forces which now was pressed when there was no possibilitie to effect it The Lyst of the forces in Aprill 1602. Colonels of the Army 14. The Earle of Clanrickard The Earle of Thomond The Lord Audley Sir Henry Dockwra Sir Samuel Bagnol Sir Christopher Saint Laurence Sir Arthur Chichester Sir Richard Moryson Sir Charles Willmot Sir Richard Percy Sir Oliuer Saint Iohn Sir Henric Power Sir Henry Follyot Sir Beniamin Berry The forces in Mounster of Horse The Lord President 100. The Earle of Thomond 100. Sir Charles Willmott 25. Sir Anthony Cooke 50. Captaine Taffe 50. Horse 325. Foote in Mounster The Lord President 200. The Earle of Thomond 200. The Lord Barry 100. The Lord Audley 150. Sir Charles Willmott 150. Sir George Cary Treasurer 100. Sir George Thorneton 100. Sir Garret Haruie 150. Sir Richard Perey 150. Sir Francis Barkely 150. Sir Iohn Dowdall 100. Sir Samuel Bagnol 150. Sir Anthony Cooke 100. Sir Alexander Clifford 100. Sir Arthur Sauage 150. The Earle of Desmond 100. The White Knight 100. Captaine Roger Haruy 150. Captaine Flower 150. Captaine Saxey 100. Captaine Slingshye 100. Captaine Skipwith 100. Captaine Hobby 100 Captaine Francis Kinsmell 150 Captaine Power 100. Captaine George Kinsmell 100. Captaine Cullom 100. Captaine Bostock 100 Captaine Gawen Haruie 100. Captaine Coote 100. Captaine Stafford 100. Captaine Owslye 100. Captaine Blundell 100. Captaine Dorrington 100. Captaine Sidley 100. Captaine Boys 100. Captaine Holcroft 100. Foote 4400. Horse in Connaght The Earle of Clanricard 50. Sir Oliuer Lambert 25. Sir Oliuer Saint Iohns 25. Captaine Wayeman Marshall 12. Horse 112. Foote in Connaght Sir Oliuer Lambert Gouernour 150. Earle of Clanrickard 150. Sir Thomas Bourke 150. Sir Oliuer Saint Iohns 200. Captaine Tibbot Bourke called Tibot ne long 100. Captaine Malby 150. Captaine Thomas Bourke 100. Captaine Ghest 150. Captaine Rotheram 150. Captaine May 100. Voide for the Iudges pay 100. Captaine Clare 150. Foote 1650. The forces lying Southward vpon Lemster in Garrisons Horse at Ophaly Leax and Kilkenny Earle of Kildare 25. Sir Edward Harbert 12. Master Marshall 20. Captaine Piggot 12. The Earle of Ormond 50. Horse 119. Foote at Ophaly Leax and Kilkenny The Earle of Kildare 150. Sir George Bourcher 100. Sir Edward Harbert 100. Sir Henrie Warren 100. Captaine O Carroll 100. Sir Henry Power 150. Sir Francis Rush 150 Sir Thomas Loftus 100. The Earle of Ormond 150. Foote 1100. The forces lying Northward vpon Lemster in Garrisons Foote in West-Meath Kelles Liscanon in the Brenny Dundalke and Moyry Lord of Deluin 150. Sir Francis Shane 150. Captaine Thomas Roper 150. The Lord Dunsany 150 Captaine Esmond 150. Sir William Warren 100. Sir Henrie Harrington 100. Captaine Ferdinand Freckleton 100. Captaine Richard Hansard 100. Foote 1200. Horse in Kelles and Liscanon in the Brenny The Earle of Kildare 25. Sir Henry Harington 25. Lord Dunsany 50. Horse 100. Out of Mounster forces were drawne into Connaght one thousand foote and fiftie horse and the abouesaid forces of Connaght are one hundred twelue horse and one thousand sixe hundred fifty foote Hereof were left to guard Galloway and Athlone foote two hundred Left in Garrison at the Abbey of Boyle one thousand foote and sixtie two horse which serued to further our new plantation at Ballishannon for there a Garrison was newly planted and Sir Henrie Follyot was made Gouernour thereof The rest of the horse and foote were laid at the Annaly and might fitly ioyne with the Garrisons disposed Southward and Northward vpon Lemster vpon all occasions of seruice as more especially they might concurre in stopping the Rebels for passing either on the South or North-side into Lemster As likewise the Garrisons Southward might answere one another and these Northward answere one another vpon all occasions of seruice Garrysons in the North. Foote at Mount Norreys Hauing drawne out sixe hundred foote and one hundred horse for the Army left to keepe the Fort Captaine Atherton 150. Foote at Armagh Hauing drawne out for the Army seuen hundred fifty foote and one hundred twenty fiue horse left to keepe the Abbey Sir Henry Dauers his Company 150 himselfe commanding the horse in the Army Foote at Blackwater Hauing drawne out for the Army one hundred foote left to keepe the Fort Captaine Thomas Williams 150. Horse and Foote at the Newrie Hauing drawne out three hundred foote for the Army left to keepe the Towne Sir Francis Stafford 50 horse Sir Francis Stafford 200 foote In Garrison Totall of Horse 50. Foote 650. The Forces at Loughfoyle lay thus in Garrisons out of which Sir Henrie Dockwra was to draw a competent force into the field for the Summer seruice and to meete the Lord Deputy in Tyrone Foote At Derry Sir Henry Dockwra 200. Captaine Orme 100. Captaine Flood 150. At Dunnman Captaine Atkinson 150. At Dunalong Captaine Badbye 150. At Ainogh Captaine Sidney 100. At Culmore Captaine Alford 100. At Ramullan Captaine Bingley 150. At Bert Captaine Winsore 150. At Kilmatren Captaine Vaughan 100. At Cargan Captaine Hart 100. At Liffer Captaine Willys 150. Captaine Pinner 100. Captaine Brookes 100. Captaine Coach 150. Captaine Leygh 100. At Dunagall Asheraw and Ballishannon Sir Irhn Bolles 150. Captaine Diggs 100. Captaine Gore 150. Captaine Stafford 100. Captaine Wood 150. Captaine Orell 150. Captaine Basset 100. Captaine Dutton 100. In all 3000 Foote Horse at Aynagh Dunalong and Liffer Sir Henry Dockwra 100. At Ballishannon Sir Iohn Bolles 50. In all 150 Horse Besides Irish foote 300 and Irish Horse 100. The Forces in Garrison at Carickfergus out of which Sir Arthur Chichester was to draw a competent strength to come by water and meete the Lord Deputie in Tyrone Foote Sir Arthur Chichester Gouernour 200. Sir Foulke Conway
not generally vsed neither are there any to bee hired though the waies be most plaine and generally good for Coaches They ride for the most part vpon their owne horses but they are also to bee hired for some twelue pence or eighteene pence the day finding the horses meate which in the stable will cost some twelue pence each night and at grasse little or nothing In euery City there be some knowne houses where an ordinary is kept for diet and beds may be had and the Ordinary is commonly twelue pence each meale By the way in poore Hamlets at this time of peace there bee English houses where is good lodging and diet and where no such are passengers must goe to the houses of Noblemen Gentlemen and Husbandmen English and Irish-English where they cannot want intertainement in some good measure these inhabitants much louing hospitalitie but all other houses are full of filth and barbarousnesse But there are not any Innes in the very Cities which hang out Bushes or any Signes only some Citizens are knowne who will giue stable and meate for horses and keepe a table where passengers cate at an ordinarie and some Citizens haue cellers wherein they draw wine if not al the yeere yet as long as their wine lasts but they haue no Tauerns with Iuy bushes or signes hung cut saue onely some few at Dublin In Scotland a horse may be hired for two shillings the first day and eight pence the day vntill he be brought home and the horse letters vse to send a footeman to bring backe the horse They haue no such Innes as bee in England but in all places some houses are knowne where passengers may haue meate and lodging but they haue no bushes or signes hung out and for the horses they are commonly set vp in Stables in some out-lane not in the same house were the passenger lyes And if any man bee acquainted with a Townes-man hee will goe freely to his house for most of them will entertaine a stranger for his money A horseman shall pay for Oates and Straw for hay is rare in those parts some eight pence day and night and he shall pay no lesse in Summer for grasse wherof they haue no great store Himself at a cōmon table shall pay about sixe pence for his supper or dinner and shal haue his bed freesand if he will eate alone in his chamber he may haue meate at a reasonable rate Some twenty or thirty yeeres agoe the first vse of Coaches came into Scotland yet were they rare euen at Edenborough At this day since the Kingdomes of England and Scotland were vnited many Scots by the Kings fauour haue been promoted both in dignitie and estate and the vse of Coaches became more frequent yet nothing so common as in England But the vse of Horse-litters hath been very ancient in Scotland as in England for sickly men and women of qualitie CHAP. II. Of the Sepulchers Monuments and Buildings in generall for I haue spoken particularly of them in the first Part writing of my daily iournies AMong all the Sepulchers that I haue seene in Europe or in Turkey that in Westminster erected to Henrie the seuenth King of England of Copper mettall adorned with vulgar precious stones is the fairest especially considering the stately Chappell built ouer it The next to that in my opinion is the Sepulcher at Winsore made of the same mettall curiously carued at the charge of Cardinall Wolfye had he not left it vnperfected so as none hath yet been buried vnder it The next place I would giue to the Sepulchers of the Turkish Ottomans whereof the fairest is the monument with the Mosche or Chappell built ouer it for Sultan Soloman at Constantinople The other monuments of the Sultans are built more low with a little round Mosche ouer them all of the best Marble the top being a round Globe of brasse or leade and for the better shew they are commonly set vpon hilles The insides are round and lightsome with windowes and in the very middest lyes the Sultan with his sonnes round about him which according to their custome are strangled by the command of their eldest brother assone as the father is dead and his Sultana is laid by his side when she dies These are all laid in chests of Cypresse lifted vp from the ground with their Tulbents ouer their heads which liuing they woare vpon their heads with some Iewels at the crowne And these chests are compassed with a grate of iron without which is a round Gallerie or walking place spread with Tapestry vpon which the Zantones or Priests that keepe the Sepulcher continually sit as if the Sultans would not be left alone without attendance when they were dead I speake not of the Turkes common Sepulchers which haue no beauty being in common fieldes with three stones erected at the head the breast and the feete Neither did I see any other stately monuments erected to the Turkish Visiers and Bashaes In the next place is the monument of the Saxon Elector Mauritius at Friburg in Germany being of black Marble three degrees high with faire statuaes and the monuments of English Noblemen in Westminster and Saint Pauls Church at London of greater magnificence and number then I haue seene any otherwhere In the next place are the Sepulchers of the French Kings at Saint Dennys neere Paris and of the Palatine at Heydelberg in Germany I speake not of the Prince of Orange his Sepulcher at Delph in Holland which is a poore monument farre vnfit for so worthy a Prince who deserued so wel of the Low-Country men But they haue few or no stately monuments nor almost any ordinary Sepulchers erected to the dead Of the same degree with the French Kings Sepulchers or rather to be preferred before the most of them are the Sepulchers of Italy but they are of another kind Some of them at Rome and that of the King of Aragon at Naples and some few other are stately and beautifull The rest are crected little from the ground and sometimes Pyramidall but the Altars built ouer them are adorned with rare pictures Porphery Marble and Lydian siones and vpon these Altars they sing Masses and prayers the dead lying vnder them As I said that all the Turkes excepting the Sultans or Emperours are buried in the open fields so I haue seene in Germany some fields without the Cities compassed with faire square walles of stone wherein Citizens were buried Of these the fairest is at Leipzig the walles whereof are built with arched Cloysters vnder which the chiefe Cittizens are buried by families the common sort onely lying in the open part of the field and at one corner of the wall there is a Tarras couered aboue but open on the two sides towards the field and paued on the ground wherein stands a Pulpet This place is called Gotts aker that is that Aker or field of God The like burying place I haue seene at Geneua without
Grauesend is a knowne Roade The City Rochester is the seate of a Bishop and hath a stately Cathedrall Church Canterbery is a very ancient City the seate of an Archbishop who in the Hierarchy of the Roman Bishop was stiled the Popes Legate but the Popes authority being banished out of England it was decreed in a Synod held the yeere 1534 that the Archbishops laying aside that title should be called the Primates and Metrapolitanes of all England Before the Rode of Margat lie the dangerous shelfes or flats of sand whereof the greatest is called Goodwin sand Douer is a Port of old very commodious but now lesse safe onely it is more famous for the short cut to Callis in France The Towne Rumney one of the fiue Portes in our Grand-fathers time lay close vpon the Sea but now is almost two miles distant from the same 11 Glocestershire was of old inhabited by the Dobuni William of Malmesbury writes that this County is so fertile in Corne and fruites as in some places it yeelds a hundreth measures of graine for one sowed but Camden affirmes this to bee false The same Writer affirmes that the very high waies are full of Appell trees not planted but growing by the nature of the soyle and that the fruits so growing are better then others planted both in beauty taste and lasting being to be kept a whole yeere from rotting He adds that it yeelded in his time plenty of Vines abounding with Grapes of a pleasant taste so as the wines made thereof were not sharpe but almost as pleasant as the Fench wines which Camden thinkes probable there being many places still called Vineyards and attributes it rather to the Inhabitants slothfulnesse then to the fault of the Ayre or soyle that it yeeldes not wine at this day Tewkesbury is a large and faire Towne hauing three Bridges ouer three Riuers and being famous for making of woollen cloth for excellent mustard and a faire Monastery in which the Earles of Glocester haue their Sepulchers The City of Glocester is the cheefe of the County through which the Seuerne runnes and here are the famous Hils of Cotswold vpon which great flockes of sheepe doe feede yeelding most white wooll much esteemed of all Nations Circester is an ancient City the largenesse whereof in old time appeares by the ruines of the wals The Riuer Onse springeth in this County which after yeeldes the name to the famous Riuer Thames falling into it 12 Oxfordshire also was inhabited by the Dobuni a fertile County the plaines whereof are bewtified with meadowes and groues the hils with woods and not onely it abounds with corne but with all manner of cattle and game for hunting and hawking and with many Riuers full of fish Woodstocke Towne is famous for the Kings House and large Parke compassed with a stone wall which is said to haue been the first Parke in England but our Progenitors were so delighted with hunting as the Parkes are now growne infinite in number and are thought to containe more fallow Deere then all the Christian World besides Histories affirme that Henry the second for his Mistris Rosamond of the Cliffords house did build in his house here a labyrinth vnpassable by any without a threed to guide them but no ruines thereof now remaine The Towne itselfe hath nothing to boast but that Ieffry Chancer the English Homer was borne there Godstowe of old a Nunnery is not farre distant where Rosamond was buried Oxford is a famous Vniuersity giuing the name to the County and was so called of the Foorde for Oxen or of the Foorde and the Riuer Onse 13 Buckinghamshire was of old inhabited by the Cattienchiani which Camden thinks to be the Cassei and it hath a large and pleasant towne called Ailsbury which giues the name to the Valley adioyning The city Buckingham is the chiefe of the County and the Towne of Stonystratford is well knowne for the faire Innes and stately Bridge of stone 14 Bedfordshire had the same old inhabitants and hath the name of Bedford the chiefe Towne 15 Hertfordshire had the same old inhabitants and the chiefe Towne is Hertford In this County is the stately house Thibaulds for building Gardens and Walks Saint Albons is a pleasant Towne full of faire Innes 16 Midlesex County was of old inhabited by the Trinobants called Mercij in the time of the Saxon Kings In this County is the Kings stately pallace Hamptencourt hauing many Courtyards compassed with sumptuous buildings London the seate of the Brittans Empire and the Chamber of the Kings of England is so famous as it needes not bee praysed It hath Colledges for the studie of the municiple Lawes wherein liue many young Gentlemen Students of the same The little citie Westminster of old more then a mile distant is now by faire buildings ioyned to London and is famous for the Church wherein the Kings and Nobles haue stately Sepulchers and for the Courts of Iustice at Westminster Hall where the Parliaments are extraordinarily held and ordinarily the Chancerie Kings Bench with like Courts Also it hath the Kings stately Pallace called Whitehall to which is ioyned the Parke and house of Saint Iames. The Citie of London hath the sumptuous Church of Saint Paul beautified with rich Sepulchers and the Burse or Exchange a stately house built for the meeting of Merchants a very sumptuous and wonderfull Bridge built ouer the Thames rich shops of Gold-smiths in Cheapeside and innumerable statelie Pallaces whereof great part lye scattered in vnfrequented lanes 17 Essex County had of old the same inhabitants and it is a large Teritorie yeelding much Corne and Saffron enriched by the Ocean and with pleasant Riuers for fishing with Groues and many other pleasures It hath a large Forrest for hunting called Waltham Forrest Chensford is a large and faire Towne neere which is New-Hall the stately Pallace of the Rateliffes Earles of Sussex Colchester is a faire City pleasantly seated well inhabited and beautified with fifteene Churches which greatly flourished in the time of the Romans Harewich is a safe Hauen for ships Saffron Walden is a faire Towne the fields whereof yeeld plenty of Saffron whereof it hath part of the name 18 The County of Suffolke was of old inhabited by the Iceni and it is large the soile fertile pleasant in groues and rich in pastures to fat Cattle where great quantity of Cheese is made and thence exported Saint Edmondsberry vulgarly called Berry is a faire Towne and so is Ipswich hauing stately built Churches and houses and a commodious Hauen 19 The County of Norfolke had of old the same Inhabitants and it is a large almost all Champion Countrey very rich and abounding with sheepe and especially with Conies fruitfull and most populous The City Norwich chiefe of the County deserues to be numbered among the chiefe Cities of England for the riches populousnesse beauty of the Houses and the faire building of the Churches Yarmouth is a most faire Towne fortified
is the Territory called Lennox whereof the Stewards haue long time been Earles of which Family the late Kings of Scotland are discended and namely Iames the sixth who raised this Earledom to a Dukedome giuing that title to the Lord d'Aubigny and these Daubignij seruing in the French and Neapolitane warres were honoured by the Kings of France with addition of Buckles Or in a field Gueules to their ancient coate of Armes with this inscription Distantia Iungo that is Distant things I ioyne Sterling or Striuelin lyes not farre off a little Citie of the Kings hauing a most strong Castle vpon the brow of a steepe rocke 8 Next these towards the North lay the Caledonij somewhat more barbarous then the rest as commonly they are more rude towards the North where not onely the aire is cold but the Country wast and mountanous And here was the Caledonian Wood so knowne to the Roman Writers as it was by them taken for all Britany and the Woods thereof At this day this Region is called by the Scots Allibawne and by the Latines Albania and containes the Bishoprick Dunkeledon and the Territory Argile so called as neere the Irish of which the Cambellan Family hath the title of Earles of Argile who are the generall Iustices of Scotland by right of inheritance and Great Masters of the Kings Houshold 9 Towards the West lay the Epidij inhabiting a wast and Fenny Country now called Cantire that is a corner of land and next lies Assinshire 10 Next lay the Creones which Region is now called Strathuaern 11 Next lay the Cornouacae at the Promontory Hey 12 On the East-side of the Caledonians lay the Vernicones in the fruitfull little Region called Fife where is the Towne of Saint Andrew Metropolitan of all Scotland 13 The little Region Athol is fertile of which the Stuards of the Family of Lorne haue the title of Earles Here is Strathbolgy the seate of the Earles of Huntly of the Family of the Seatons who tooke the name of Gordan by the authority of a Parliament 14 Next lyes Goury hauing fruitfull fields of Wheate whereof Iohn Lord Rethuen was of late made Earle but Arrell in this Region hath long giuen the title of Earle to the Family of Hayes 15 vnder Fife lyes Angush where is Scone famous for the Kings consecration Montrose hath his Earles of the Family of the Grahames but the Douglasses Earles of Angush of an honorable Eamily were made Gouernours by Robert the third of this Region and these Earles are esteemed the chiefe and principall Earles of all Scotland and it is said that they haue right to carry the Kings Crowne at the solemne assemblies of the Kingdome 16. 17 Next lye the two Regions of Marnia and Marria vpon the sea where is Dunetyre the chiefe seate of the Family of the Keythes who by warlike vertue haue deserued to be the Marshalls of the Kingdome and Aberdene that is the mouth of the Dene is a famous Vniuersity And Queene Mary created Iohn Ereskin Earle of Marre who lately was the Regent of Scotland and is by inheritance Sheriffe of the County of Sterling 18 Next lay the Taizeli where now Buquhan is seated 19 Then towards Murrey Frith the V ocomagi of old inhabited Rosse murray and Nesseland 20 More innerly is the Gulfe Vararis right ouer against the Towne Inuernesse 21 The Cantae possessed the corner of land shooting towards the Sea where is the most safe Hauen Cromer 22. 23 Yet more inwardly where Bean Rosse and Southerland are seated the Lugi and Mertae of old inhabited Thus farre Edward the first King of England subdued all with his victorious Army hauing beaten the Scots on all sides In Southerland are Mountaines of white Marble a very miracle in this cold clyme but of no vse the excesse and magnificence in building hauing not yet reached into these remote parts 24 Further neare Catnesse the Catni of old inhabited the Earles of which Country are of the ancient and Noble Families of the Sint-cleres 25 Vrdehead is thought the remotest Promontory of all Britany where the Cornabij of old inhabited 26 I will in one word mention the Ilands In the Gulfe Glotta or Dunbritten Frith lyes the Iland Glotta called Arran by the Scots giuing the title to an Earle Next that lyes Rothesia now called Buthe whence are the Stewards Kings of Scots as they say Then Hellan the Iland of the Sayntes Without the foresaid Gulfe many Ilands lye thicke together vulgarly called the Westerne Ilands and numbred forty foure being of old called by some Hebrides by others Inchades and Leucades and by many as Ptolomy Ebudae Ina one of these Ilands haue a Monastery famous for the buriall of the Kings of Scotland and for the habitation of many holy men among which was Columbus the Apostle of the Picts of whose Cell the Iland was also named Columbkill The Scots bought all these Ilands of the Norwegians as a great strength to the Kingdome though yeelding very little profit the old inhabitants whether Scots or Irish being of desperare daring and impatient of being subiect to any lawes Neare these lye the Orcades vulgarly Orkney about thirty in number yeelding competent quantity of Barley but no Wheate or trees The chiese whereof is Pomonia well knowne by the Episcopall seate and yeelding both Tynne and Leade These Orcades Ilands were subiect to the Danes and the inhabitants speake the Gothes language but Christiern King of the Danes sold his right to the King of Scotland Fiue dayes and nights sayle from the Orcades is the Iland Thule so often mentioned by Poets to expresse the furthest corner of the World whereupon Virgill saith Tibi seruiet vltima Thule that is The furthest Thule shall thee serue Many haue thought that Iseland was this Thule condemned to cold ayre and perpetuall Winter but Camden thinkes rather that Schotland is Thule which the Marriners now call Thilensall being subiect to the King of Scotland In the German Sea towards the coast of Britany are few Ilands saue onely in Edenburg Frith where these are found May Basse Keth and Inche-colme that is the Iland of Columbus Scotland reaching so farre into the North must needs be subiect to excessiue cold yet the same is in some sort mitigated by the thicknesse of the cloudy aire and sea vapours And as in the Northerne parts of England they haue small pleasantnes goodnesse or abundance of Fruites and Flowers so in Scotland they haue much lesse or none at all And I remember that comming to Barwick in the moneth of May wee had great stormes and felt great cold when for two moneths before the pleasant Spring had smiled on vs at London On the West side of Scotland are many Woodes Mountaines and Lakes On the East side towards the Sea I passed Fife a pleasant little Territory of open fields without inclosures fruitfull in Corne as bee all the partes neare Barwick saue that they yeeld little wheate and much
their owne Captaines In the 11 Article all immunities in the Dukedome of Milan are confirmed to the Bilitianenses the Inhabitants of the middle Valley the Luganenses the Locarnenses 12. Choice is giuen to the Sweitzers to retaine the Castles they had or to take mony for them Lastly it is agreed couenanted that the league shall be peripetuall not be broken vpon any fraudulent pretence In this league the King excepts all his confederates the Sweitzers except Pope Leo the 10 the Emperor Maximilian the Empire and the House of Austria and all old leagues so as if the King should make war vpon any of these in their own countries it may be free to the Sweitzers to obserue their leagues with them but if any of them assaile the King in his own Kingdome the Sweitzers shal not permit any of their subiects to serue them but shall call them home This League was made at Friburg in the yeere 1516 the moneth of Nouember and vpon the day of Saint Andrew And the King rested not till after fiue yeeres since this Peace was made he leagued himselfe more strictly at Lucerna with all the Cantons that of Zurech only excepted and with all their fellowes in league of which league I will briefly relate some heads added to the former namely that if any man should make warre vpon the King in France or in the Dukedome of Milan the King at his pleasure might leauy in Sweitzerland an Army of sixe thousand at the least or sixteene thousand foote at the most except the Senate should grant a greater number That the King might chuse the Captaines and the Senate without delay should permit them to march within tenne dayes and not recall them till the warre should bee ended if the King shall please so long to vse them That by the same right and vnder the same conditions the King making warre vpon any may freely leauy souldiers but with this caution that the Sweitzers troubled with warre at home should be free from these couenants It was further cautioned that the King should not diuide the Army of the Sweitzers into diuers places or Forts but should keepe it vaited in one body That he should not vse it for any fight at Sea That they should receiue pay the same day they should march out of their country and were they neuer so soone sent backe yet three months pay should be presently due vnto them and that the first moneths pay should be giuen them within the confines of Sweitzerland That the King to aide the Sweitzers hauing any warre should send them two hundred armed horse and twelue great pieces of Ordinance with all furniture namely six battering pieces and sixe middle pieces and besides towards the charge of their warre should each three moneths pay a certaine summe of mony at Lyons and if the Sweitzers shall chuse rather to haue mony in stead of the armed horse the King should further pay them two thousand crownes each three moneths That if in time of warre the Sweitzers shall be forbidden to buy Salt in other places they may buy and bring Salt out of France That neither part shall make the subiects of the other free of their Cities or receiue them into patronage That the King to declare his good will towards the Sweitzers shall besides the two thousand Franckes promised by the former League to each Canton pay yeerely one thousand Franckes more to each of them during this League and moreouer shal besides the former Pensions giue to their Confederates yeerely halfe as much more In this League the King excepts Pope Leo the tenth the Emperour the Kings of England Scotland and Denmark with other Princes and the Sweitzers except the Pope the Emperor the House of Austria the house of Medici the D. of Sanoy and some others But if these so excepted should make war vpon either part within their territories that aides should be sent mutually without any respect This League was made to last three yeeres after the death of the French King Francis the first and was renewed by his son Henrie the second at Solotburn in the yeere 1549 by all the Cantons excepting Zurech and Bern and was after renewed by Charles the ninth and the succeeding Kings But in the leagues made with the successors of Francis the first caution is inserted that the Sweitzers shal not serue the King in any warre for the recouery of any part of the Dukedome of Milan but if the King shall recouer it with any other Army then they shall aide him to defend his possession as formerly And whereas the Cantons of Zurech and Bern refused to ioyne in the Leagues made with Francis the first and Henrie the second these reasons thereof were then alleaged First because the Canton of Zurech was then alienated from the French by the Cardinall of Sedon Secondly because Zwinglius a notable Preacher of the Reformed Religion did in many Sermons sharpely inueigh against mercinary warfare Thirdly because this League much displeased the military men of Sweitzerland in that the Senate had no liberty to looke into the cause of the warre in that the Souldiers and Captaines were not to be chosen by the Sweitzers but by the King at his pleasure in that the large profits of the League redounded to few in that the armed horse to bee sent by the King were of no vse to the Sweitzers warres commonly made in mountainous places and craggy passages Lastly because it seemed a point of great inconstancy that the Sweitzers who lately when the French King Francis and Charles the deceased Emperors grandchild were competitors for the Empire had written to the Electors that they would yeild no obedience to the French King in case he were chosen should so suddenly change their minds and make a more strict league with the French but the greater part was of a contrary iudgement because Souldiers were not bound curiously to enquire after the causes of warre for which onely the King in his conscience was bound to giue accompt And because their barren Countrey being also populous was most fit for a mercenary warre and that military experience was thereby to be retained and gained by which and like reasons they perswaded the necessity of this league Thus haue I according to the discription of Sembler briefly shewed that the Sweitzers Commonwealth consists of three parts at home not to speake of the forraigne leagues namely of the Cantons of the Fellowes in league and of the stipendiary cities and prefectures or gouernments Each community is vulgarly called Ort and the Italians call them Cantons whereof I haue said that there be thirteene in number namely Suitia vulgarly Schweis whereof the rest haue the name of Sweitzers Vria Vnderualdia Lucerna Tigurum vulgarly Zurech Glarona Tugium vulgarly Zug Berna Friburgum Solodorum vulgarly Solothurn Basilea vulgarly Bazill Seaphusium vulgarly Shafhusen and Abbatiscella vulgarly Apenzill I haue said that the Fellowes in league are the
of Spaine Histories witnesse that some of these Prouinces did owe homage to the Empire and the rest to the King of France till they fell into the hands of the powerfull Dukes of Borgundy who by diuers transactions tooke all rights from the Kings of France and because the Empire hath been euer since in the House of Austria it cannot seeme strange the Kings of Spaine being of the same House that these Prouinces haue been freed of the homage due to the Empire The Emperour Charles the fifth happily gouerned these Prouinces with great iudgement handling the people gently who had alwaies been held vnder a gentle yoke by their Princes inioying great priuiledges inuiolably kept to them neuer vsed to absolute gouernement but hauing often taken Armes when their Princes imposed exactions vpon them or broke any of their priuiledges and so bringing their Princes to iust and equall termes But his son Phillip K. of Spaine and many other Kingdomes straying from his Fathers example in the gouernement of Netherland and obstinately despising his counsell which at his death as it were by his last Testament he gaue him to handle this people gently and not induring their voluntarie and free subiection hath caused the greater or at least the richer part of these Prouinces to fall from him and his heires For vpon the first dissention about Religion Pope Pius the fourth induced Phillip King of Spaine to publish a Decree in Netherland for the establishing of the infamous Inquisition first inuented in Spaine of late to punish the Iewes and Saracens who being Christians yet retained their owne rites and also for the execution of the Decrees made in the Councell of Trent which done more then 400 Gentlemen made petition to the King to abolish this decree and ioyning the intercession of the Emperor sent this petition to the King by the hands of diuers Lords and Gentlemen whereof the Prince of Egmond was one who had done the King very great seruice in the battell of Saint Quintens These petitioners were despised by the Spaniards and called Geuses that is beggers or poore slaues and the King sent them backe vnregarded and sent the Duke of Alua to go uern Netherland who cruelly raged against the Professors of the reformed religion beheaded the Prince of Egmond and the Earle of Horn both Knights of the golden fleece and on all sides proceeded butcherly In the meane time the Prince of Orange who formerly had in vaine perswaded the Prince of Egmond to fly foreseing this tiranny with other banished Geutlemen was gone out of Netherland and fled to the Prince of Condy in France At last the Duke of Alua hauing brought all in subiection reformed the policy and imposed an exaction of the tenth penny was recalled into Spaine whither he retourned with much treasure he had extorted and Don Iuvan of Austria succeeded in that Gouernment in whose time the fatal Ciuill warre began in Flaunders and shortly after mutinous troopes called Male contents ioined together neither acknowledging the King nor the States of the Prouinces and while Don Iunan pursued them he died in the Camp in the yeere 1578. Then Alexander Farnese Duke of Parma was made Gouernor of Netherland and the King persisting in his purpose to bring that people to absolute subiection and the Professors of the reformed religion being grieuously persecuted and all the people being murinously affected for the newe and tirannicall exaction of the tenth penny without consent of the generall States the troubles still continuing in Flaunders at last some few Prouinces hauing the Prince of Orange for their Generall in the warre strictly combined themselues in league for mutual defence So Flaunders and the firme land was left vnder the Spanish yoke but the confederate Prouinces firmly resoluing to cast off all subiection to the King of Spaine instituted a new forme of common wealth For the Prince of Orange wisely and variantly procuring the publike good was in the yeere 1584 traiterously slaine with a baller by a desperate Roague whereupon the cities of Flaunders lay open to the Duke of Parma But the foresaid vnited Prouinces cast themselues into the protection of the Queene of England and if my memory faile not they are thus named Holland Zealand Vtreiht Groning west Friesland besides many townes for Gelderland some fortes and strong cities of Brabant and Ostend in Flaunders a towne for neerenes fit to annoy the Enemy And the foresaid fortes and strong cities for the most part lying vpon the coast of the sea within land vpon the mouth of the Rheine where it fals into the sea gaue free traffick by sea to the vnited Prouinces forbad the same to the cities within land and besides yeelded this commodity that as the Spanish soldiers from their forts send frey booters to spoile the vnited countries of Gelderland Groning Friesland so the soldiers of the states might frōthence make incursiōs vpō the countries subiect to the King of Spaine wherby the country people were forced to pay large yeerly cōtributions to be free from this spoile The few inhabitants of these small Prouinces whome men will iudge but a breakefast to the Spanish Army notwithstanding haue not only bene able to this day to keepe out these powerfull forces from entring their territories but may iustly brag that they haue wonne many strong forts and townes from the Spaniard and carried their Army into Flaunders where in a field fought at Newport they obtained a glorious victory against the Spaniardes And so much in small progresse of time haue their iust and moderate Counsells increased their common-wealth gouerned with great equity and equality as at last forsaken as it were by the King of France for the time hauing little helpe from England they alone did not onely long defend themselues from the powerfull reuenge of the Spaniard but stoutly bearing out the warr to a wished peace are now no more to be pittied but in common iudgment rather to be enuied and feared by their neighbours Mention hath bene made of the Prince of Orange and hereafter mention is to be made of his sonne Count Maurice therefore it will not be amisse to say somthing of this noble family The vnited Prouinces consisting of citizens and the common people there being few Gentlemen in Friesland and few or none in Holland and Zeland and such kind of Plebean men vnfit to leade Armies they aswell for the common-wealths sake first tooke the Prince of Orange for their head as after for thankfulnes to him much esteemed the Family of Nassaw and besides others of that Family gouerning in Friesland and other parts made choise of the said Princes sonne Count Maurice to be General of their Army but with limited power from the States and he hath a double as I thinke voice in their publike meetings in which notwithstanding hee seldome or neuer vsed to be present His father the Prince of Orange had all his
miles in a dirty way to Tortona where I paid one soldo for tribute as all passengers pay and seuen soldi for my dinner vpon reckoning Thence I walked after dinner in a dirty way fiue miles to Ponte Curon and further in a way somewhat fairer fiue miles to Voghera All this way in the Dutchy of Milan was in a most fruitfull plaine of corne with Elmes planted in the furrowes and vines growing vpon them and such is the way in all Lombardy and to the very City of Paduoa At Voghera I paid three reali for my supper and bed And here by chance I sound an English Merchant in the Inne who talking rashly did voluntarily without being examined whence he was professe himselfe to be a Dutchman and my selfe in disguised poore habit sitting at the lower end of the table and speaking to him in the Dutch language he was forced for want of the language to say that he was a Dutch-man but borne vpon the confines of France and knowing no no other language but the French whereupon I speaking to him in the French tongue he had as little skill in that as in the Dutch so as I might perceiue that he dissembled his Countrey and being not willing to presse him as hauing beene my selfe often forced in like sort to dissemble my Countrey did forbeare to speake any more to him in the Dutch or French tongue we began to discourse in Italian wherein he had spoken little before he vttered these words Iome ne repentiua that is Irepented my selfe therof whereas an Italian would haue said Iome ne pentiua by which fillable added by him I presently knew he was an English man Supper being ended he perceiuing himselfe to haue beene thus pressed by a poore fellow sitting at the lower end of the table tooke me for a spie and feared I should betray him and presently went into the stable where he commanded his seruant to saddle their horses that they might ride all night towards Genoa But I following him and boldly speaking English to him he was soone content to stay all night and to take me in my homely apparell for his bedfellow Hauing passed this night merrily I hired a horse the fourth day for foure cauellotti and rode eleuen miles to Bastia then I walked on foot seuen miles to Paula and being afoote-man I paid fiue foldi for my passage ouer the Riuer Po. This iourney hitherto was in a dirty way hauing plaine fields on both sides tilled after the foresaid manner of Lombordy and many rich pastures which are rare in all other parts of Italy Entering Paula I passed a stately bridge built ouer the Riuer 〈◊〉 which runnes from the West to the East and after sixe miles falleth into the Riuer Po. This bridge was two hundred walking prices long and so broad as two carts might passe together and was built of stone and couered ouer the head with a roofe with open aire on the sides supported with pillars The City lies in length from the East to the West and a new faire street diuides it in the middest by the bredth from the South to the North. On the West side of this street are two market places one greater then the other In the lesse is a 〈◊〉 called Regia Sole of mixt mettall vulgarly Dibronzo which some write to haue beene made with art magicke by the Emperour Anastasius for his own image and to haud beene placed by him vpon the pillar of the souldiers at Rauenna where he kept his Court and after Rauenna was taken by Charles the great that this Image being to be carried into France was by the way left here Others will haue it the statua of the Emperour Antoninus Pias for they are deceiued who thinke it the statua of Odoacer King of the Lombards who hath another statua in this market place On the 〈◊〉 West side of the foresaid new street towards the North-side is the Castle which Iohn Galiacius first Duke of Milon built and the same Dukes Library but almost voide of Bookes and in this Castle lies a Garison of Spaniards Neere that is the Church of Saint 〈◊〉 in a Chappol whereof is a stately Sepulcher in which they say the bones of that Saint were laid being brought thither out of the Iland Sardinia And this sepulcher is of marble curiously engrauen and worthy to be sought out and beheld There I did reade this inscription written in Latin vpon another sepulcher The French King Francis the first being taken by Caesars Army neere Pauia the foureteenth of Febru 〈…〉 among other Lords these were Lorayne Francis Duke of Lorayne Richard de la Poole Englishman and Duke of Suffolke banished by his tyrant King Henry the 〈◊〉 At last Charles Parken of Morley kinseman of the said Richard banished out of England for the Catholike Faith by Queene Elizabeth and made Bishop hereby the 〈◊〉 of Phillip King of Spaine ded out of his small meanes erect this Monument to him c. In a Cloyster of the same Church is a Sepulcher of this Charles Parken Bishop decensed in the yeere 〈◊〉 There is another Monument of 〈◊〉 King of Lombardy and another of the Bishop 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 with this inscription in Latin Most 〈◊〉 in the Greeke and Latin langues who being Consull was sent hither into bamshment And with these verses Hath Death 〈◊〉 ought my goodnes mounts the Skies Great is my same my worke liues in mens eyes On the East side of the saide new streete and towardes the North lies the Church of Saint Francis where is a monument of Baldus the Ciuill Lawyer and they shew his head of an extraordinarie bignesse Without the walles of the Citie on the North side is a piece of ground of some twentie miles circuit compasted with a wall in many places broken downe vulgarly called Il Barco that is the Park which Iohn Galiacius Duke of Milan walled in to keepe fallow Deare Hares and Conies but at this day it is diuided into Pastures and plowed fieldes On the furthest side of this Parke from the City is the place where the French King Francis the first was taken prisoner by the Army of the Emperour Charles the fifth Not farre thence is the Monastery of the Carthusians called la Certosa where the building of the Church the stones of Marble the engrauing the top couered with Leade part of the great Altar of Alablaster highly valued the Sepulcher of Iohn Galiacius first Duke of Millan and the reuenew of the Church exceeding three hundred thousand Crownes by the yeere deserue admiration The buildings of the Citie are of bricke and seeme to be of great antiquitie The Emperour Charles the fourth in the yeere 1361 at the instance of Galiacius the second gaue this Citie the priuiledges of an Vniuersitie The King of Spaine permits lewes to dwell here but they may not stay in Milan aboue twentie foure houres This Citie was the seate of the Kings of Lombardy whose old Castle is
to bee seene neere the Church of Saint Michael After it was subiect to the Kings of Italy and the Berengarij being ouercome it was subiect to the Emperour Otho the first by right of his wife and successiuely to the Emperours with some shew of a free Citie which freedome that they might more fully attaine they willingly yeelded themselues in the yeere 254 to the Archbishop of Rauenna After they were subiect to vsurping Citizens whom the Vicounts of Milan expelled and so ioyned this Citie to their State which together with the Dukedome of Milan came to the Spaniards hands in the time of the Emperour Charles the fifth I lodged here in a faire Inne but common to the baser for t the Hostesse whereof was a Masculine woman and by the night letting in Ruffines to drinke I was not a little affraid of some violence to bee offered mee in my chamber whereupon I firmely resolued with my selfe to lodge euer after in the best Inne and of best fame especially in Lombardy infamous for murthers and here I paied for my supper and my bed three reali I went on foote from Pauia going forth at the Nothwest Gate twenty miles through rich Pastures to Milan called la grande that is The great of the large circuit thereof The Citie hath the name of Olanus a Tuscane Captaine or the Latin word media lana that is Halfe wooll of those kinde of stuffes made in the Citie It is large populous and very rich seated in a Plaine as all Lombardy lies and that most firtile and by the commoditie of a little Riuer brought to the Citie by the French and almost compassing the same it aboundeth also with forraine Merchandise Of old it was the seate of many Roman Emperours but the Historie of the Citie being contained in the Historie of Italy I will onely remember that the Archbishop thereof long time challenged the Primacie in the Italian Church neuer acknowledging the Bishop of Rome for superiour and that he crowned the Emperour with a Crowne of Iron after the people of Milan had approued him That the King of the Ostrogothes had the same Crowne set vpon his head after his victorie which Crowne they say was giuen in signe that the Empire and the command of Milan were to be won by Iron That the Citizens of Milan were often Rebels to the Emperours That the Vicounts made vicarij of the Citie did by little and little subiect the Territorie and the Citie with title of Duke of Milan That the Family of Vicounts being extinct in Duke Philip about the yeere 1447 the Dukes of Orleance by right of their Mother and Francis Sforza by the right of his wife chalenged the inheritance of the Dukedome but the Emperour thought the same to bee fallen backe to his right That Francis Sforza was by the people first made Captaine of their forces then chosen Duke That the French King Francis the first defending the right of the Dukes of Orleans cast Sforza out of the Dukedome in the yeere 1449. That the Emperor Charles the sift casting out the French in the vere 1521 first restored Sforza to the Dukedome with some restraint of his power but he being dead inuaded the Dukedom himself wherupon after many contentions battels it came to his successours the Kings of Spaine of the family of Austria to whom at this day it is subject The Citie is of a round for me and hath nine gates the building shewes antiquitie and the houses are of bricke and low built excepting some stately Pallaces such as is that of the Duke of Terra Noua the streetes are broad and the pauement of bricke raised in the middest with broad stones When I came to the Citie on foote I made offer to enter at the Gate called Genese on the South side but the Guard refused me as a foot-man to pasle into the Citie and lest by my importunitie I should haue made them looke more narrowly into my qualitie they being commonly expert men to find out any disguised person I went backe into the Suburbes as it I would lodge there but as soone as I was out of sight I walked further towards the East compaising a great Fen and so ioyning my selfe to some Citizens returning from walking in the fieldes I entered with them into the Citie by the next Gate on the same South side which Gate is called Lodouico and was only kept by one souldier A little Brooke within the walles compasseth the very center of the Citie circularly beyond which Brooke on the North-side within the walles not farre from the Gate Zobia is a large Meadow wherein are no houses for there is the most strong Castle seated in a Plaine and kept by a Spanish Garrison into which no Frenchman may enter Therefore I hauing gotten so difficultly into the City restrained my curiositie from attempting to view this Castle lest I should rashly expose my selfe to great danger Further towards the North without the Gate Renza is a large Hospitall for those that are sicke of the plague hauing more chimnies as they say then the yeere hath dayes Not tarre from the Gate Genese is the Church of S. Laurence which os old was dedicated to Hercules by the Emperour Maximinianus Erculeus buried in the same and it hath a rare Image of the Virgin Marie and 16 stately Marble Pillars and the building is Magnificent The Emperour Theodosius is said to haue giuen to S. Ambrose Archbishop of Milan one of the nailes wherewith Christ was fastened to the Crosse and the brasen Serpent that Moses lift vp in the Desert the Image of which Serpent was of mixt mettall vulgarly called di bronzo and they say that S. Ambrose left these reliques in the Churches of S. Tccla and of S. Ambrose and the Altar vnder which the body of S. Ambrose lies is valued at 28000 Crownes In the Church Delle Gratte belonging to the Bene dictine Friers not farre from the Gate Zobia is a stately Throne and vnder it an vnperfected monumēt which Duke Lodouico Sforza purposed to haue built for himselfe but the French cast him out of his Dukedome and he died in France And in this Monastery is a notable Library and in the place where the Friers eate the supper of our Lord is painted with wonderfull art In the little Chappell of S. Gottard is the sepulcher of that Saint whose name the mountaine of the Alpes doth beare which is most famous for the difficult passage The great stately Cathedrall Church called Il Domo is built all of white marble and supported with some 100 marble pillars in which at this day they sing the masse of S. Ambrose differing from the Roman Masse and onely agreeing therewith in the words of consecration From Milan to Cremona are accounted 52 miles and I making short stay at Milan for the danger of my abode there hired a horse to Cremona for a Crowne of gold wanting 8 soldi and riding out at the