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A65019 The travels of Sig. Pietro della Valle, a noble Roman, into East-India and Arabia Deserta in which, the several countries, together with the customs, manners, traffique, and rites both religious and civil, of those oriental princes and nations, are faithfully described, in familiar letters to his friend Signior Mario Schipano : whereunto is added a relation of Sir Thomas Roe's Voyage into the East-Indies.; Viaggi. Parte 3. English Della Valle, Pietro, 1586-1652.; Havers, G. (George); Roe, Thomas, Sir, 1581?-1644.; Terry, Edward, 1590-1660. Relation of Sir Thomas Roe's voyage. 1665 (1665) Wing V48; ESTC R10032 493,750 487

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him but sent him a Letter in justification of my self with all the civil expressions I could devise At first he was something backward to receive it doubting perchance that I had written angerly to him in regard of my preceding visit yet at length upon the request of some mediators whom I made use of he took it read it and remain'd very well satisfied with my proceedings in which there was nothing but gentleness The Commendator likewise being one of an excellent nature us'd all means he could to give the President satisfaction and to shew him that what he had done with us was to no ill end he went purposely to visit him carrying Sig Alberto with him to the end he might justifie himself too both of them intreated and both of them took the blame upon themselves in fine so much was done and said that the President was reconcil'd with all And because it was insisted on my behalf that he would admit a visit from me he consented upon this condition that this first time should not be simply my visit but his invitation which accordingly he made to us to come all together that night to supper with him where he treated us very splendidly and every thing ended in jollity and friendship as at first And all the while that I stay'd at Suràt he oblig'd me continually with sundry demonstrations of his affection particularly by often sending his own Coach to me with his Interpreter who is an Armenian Christian and a Catholick call'd Scander Brother to F. Agostino Bagiezzi of Alingia a Dominican my acquaintance in Persia which Interpreter being skill'd in the Country and conversing with me in the Persian Tongue carry'd me frequently abroad to see sundry things As for the Hollanders the caresses and civilities which they have done and still continue to me are so numerous that I shall have them in remembrance as long as I live But 't is time now to speak a little of this City and the curiosities which here and elsewhere I have lately seen The City of Suràt is of a handsome greatness and for these Countries of sufficiently good building 'T is very populous as all other Cities and places are in India which every where abounds with people The Inhabitants are partly Gentiles and partly Mahometans and if I am not deceived the former are the greater number However they live all mixt together and peaceably because the Gran Moghol to whom Guzaràt is now subject having sometimes had a distinct King although he be a Mahometan but not a pure one as they report makes no difference in his Dominions between the one sort and the other and both in his Court and Armies and even amongst men of the highest degree they are of equal account and consideration Yet the Mahometans as the Masters especially those of the Mogholian Race which now is the Imperial in these parts seems to have some little more of authority But forasmuch as I have formerly survey'd and observ'd the manners of the Mahometans both in Turkey and Persia I now turn my mind to those of the Gentile-Idolaters in India which are more new to me and with such observations in reference to both as shall seem worthy of notice I shall not fail to acquaint you In the first place I shall give you the relation of a Nuptial Pomp which I saw one day pass by my house in this manner A long train of men with Drums and Trumpets before them march'd in the day time first carrying cover'd baskets full of sundry things which were either a Present sent from the Bridegroom to the Bride or rather the attiring of the Bride which uses to be publickly shewn in the East Then follow'd on foot likewise some black Women-slaves well cloth'd being given to the Bride either by the Father or the Husband Lastly to conclude the Pomp came a Palanchino a kind of Litter wherein persons of quality are wont to be carry'd in India It was not of the ordinary form which hang downwards upon one pole between the bearers before and behind but it was to be carry'd on high upon poles by four men one at each corner and it was cover'd all over with silk yet no body was within it so that I know not what it serv'd for unless haply it was intended to transport the Bride to her Husband this different fashion being for greater solemnity made use of in such an occasion as Marriage At night the married couples pass'd by and according to their mode went round about the City with a numerous company They were four all very small Children two boys and two girls for in India most Marriages are made at that age and because they were not big enough to ride on Horse-back alone therefore they were held up by so many well-grown men who sat upon the saddle Before them went many Torches and Musical instruments with a great troop of people on foot accompanying them But the persons of quality follow'd in Coaches of which there was a good number and going one by one they made a very long train whereby it was known that the married Children were of considerable quality Of remarkable things without the City there is on one side a very large Cistern or Artificial Pool surrounded with stone-work and contriv'd with many sides and angles at which there are stairs leading down to the surface of the water In the midst stands a little Island which cannot be gone to but by boat or swimming The Diametre of this Artificial Lake is two good furlongs which in our parts would seem a competent largeness but here 't is not much and this Fish-pond of Suràt is not accounted among the greatest but the least in India where indeed they are numerous and the most magnificent and goodly structures or rather the only structures in this Country which have any thing of magnificence or handsomeness They are made in divers places by Princes Governours of Countries or other wealthy persons for the publick benefit and as works of Charity because the soil sutable to the Climate is sufficiently hot and aboundeth not in water Rivers are not in all places and other running waters and springs there are scarce any especially in the more in-land parts remote from the Sea Rain likewise very seldome through the whole year saving in that season call'd by them Pausecàl which signifies The time of rain being about three moneths beginning about the middle of Iune and during which time the Rain is continual and very great whence some upon this account call these three moneths Winter although the weather be then hottest as well in India as in all the rest of the northern Hemisphere And this no doubt proceeds from the Providence of God since were it not for this great rain India would be in regard of the great heat and drought at this time unhabitable as likewise the whole torrid Zone in which most of India lies was believ'd by the Ancients who had
but ill cut as well as the rest of the figure which for its bigness hath a very great Belly I know not whether through the Artificers fault who seems to have been little skilful or else because the Indians as I have also heard of the people of Sumatra account it a great Beauty and perfection to have a great Belly This figure of Brahma stands upright and at his Feet two other less carv'd figures which as they say are his two Sons Sunnet and Sunnatan On each side of Brahma stand likewise two Statues of Women somewhat less then Brahma himself and they call them his Wives Savetri and Gavetri On the left side of this narrow Temple stand two other figures of the same bigness being two naked Men with long Beards whom they pretend to have been two religious persons I know not whether Doctors or Disciples of Brahma or Pythagoras one is call'd Chescuèr the other Ciavan de Chescuèr On the same side downwards are many other Idolets as one with an Elephants Head and divers others formerly by me mention'd All which Idols are serv'd ador'd perfum'd offer'd to and wash'd every day as for delight for the Indians account it delight to wash often by the Brachmans who assist at their service with much diligence I must not forget that the Banians say this Town Naghera was the King's Seat and principal City anciently the Head of the whole Kingdom of Cambaia and that the City now properly call'd Cambaia and rais'd to greatness by the ruine of this old is a modern thing whence I have sometimes suspected that the Indian Character call'd Naghra us'd by the learned was denominated from this City wherein it was anciently us'd but 't is onely a Conjecture and I have learnt by long and much experience that in the derivation and interpretation of Names especially of Places there is no trusting to the resemblance of Words because by reason of the diversity of Languages and the casual Conformity of Words which signifie things sufficiently different according to the variety of Places gross errors are easily admitted Nagher in the Indian Language signifies a Great City Coming from Naghra I saw some naked and besmeared Men of deportment almost like the incinerated Gioghi who were of a Race of Indians accounted by themselves the most sordid and vile Race of all in India because they eat every thing even the uncleannest Animals as Rats and the like whence they are call'd in Persian Hhalal-chor which signifies a Man that accounts it lawful to eat any thing the Indians call them Der and all people in general abhor not onely to converse with but even to touch them Concerning Religion I have heard nothing particular of them but believe them Gentiles as the rest or perhaps Atheists who may possibly hold every thing for lawful as well in believing as in eating They are all sufficiently poor and live for the most part by begging or exercising the most sordid Trades in the Common-wealth which others disdain to meddle with but they either because their Rite teaches them so or necessity inforces them are not at all shie of March the fifth We visited the King's Garden again and many other Gardens where we tasted divers fruits and beheld several Flowers of India unknown in Europe amongst the rest one very odoriferous which I kept in a Paper which they call Ciompa Without the City we saw the Saltpits and also the Field by the Sea-side where the Indians are wont to burn the bodies of their dead which may be known by the reliques of many fires and pieces of bones not wholly burnt which are seen scatter'd about the same The next Morning early we return'd to this Field and saw several Bodies burnt and particularly observ'd the Funeral of one Woman from the beginning to the end They carry the Corps wrapt in a cloth of Cit of a red colour for the most part and much in use among the Indians for other purposes They carry it not upon a Biere as we do but ty'd to and hanging down like a sack from a staff lay'd cross two Men's shoulders They make the funeral pile of wood lay'd together in form of a bed of equal length and breadth and sufficient to receive the Body upon which beginning then to lament with a loud voice they lay the carkass naked and supine with the Face and Feet towards the Sea which I believe is likewise observ'd where the Sea is not towards Rivers Lakes and Cisterns the Indians having a particular devotion to the Water nor do I know that herein they have respect to any Region of Heaven They cover the privities with a piece of wood anoint the Hands and Feet put a coal of fire in the Mouth and then all things being prepar'd they set fire first at the Throat and afterwards to the whole pile round about beginning first at the Head but with their Faces turn'd another way as Virgil saith our Ancestors did Then sprinkle Water on the ground round about the pile which they continually stir up with staves in their Hands and blow with the motion of a cloth to the end the flame may not spread but burn more speedily The body being consum'd by degrees they reduce the fire into a round form and when all is burnt they leave the ashes and sometimes a piece of a bone not wholly consum'd there in the same place The cloth wherein the body was wrapt before it was committed to the pile they give in Charity to some poor person present Such as have where withall are burnt with odoriferous and precious wood in which the rich spend much but they that cannot reach so high use ordinary wood Children under two years of age are not burnt but buried as we saw some in the same Field Nor let the Reader wonder that in the same day and hour we hapned to see so many dead persons for besides that Cambaia is a large City and very populous as all the Cities and Lands of India are the Gentiles are wont to perform this Ceremony of the dead onely in the Morning at a set hour and in that place so that all that dye in the whole City during the twenty four hours of the day are brought to that place at the same hour The same day we had News of a Jesuit's coming to Cambaia from Goa with a Cafila of Portugal Frigats which was going for Agrà Whereupon in the Evening Sig Alberto Scilling and I in company of a Venetian Merchant went to visit him at the house where he lodged and having told him that we were to go the next day for Suràt I desir'd him to give a letter to the Jesuits of Daman and Bassaim where I hop'd to touch upon the way to Goa which he very courteously condescending to do we went again the next Morning to see him before we departed March the seventh In the Morning we visited the Father Jesuit who was not a Priest but one of those whom
Sinay set out together with us We travell'd first East-ward then South-ward but many times I could not observe which way our course tended we went upon the ridge of a Hill and through uneven wayes sometimes ascending and sometimes descending but always in the middle of great thick Groves full of Grass and running water no less delightful then the former Fields A little more then half a League from the Fort we found a Meschita of the Moors built upon the way with a Lake or Receptacle of water but not very well contriv'd by the Captain of the said Fort which his King had allow'd him to make as a great favour for the Gentiles are not wont to suffer in their Countries Temples of other Religions Here we found our Ambassador who stay'd for us and we tarry'd likewise here above an hour in expectation of our baggage much of which was still behind At length continuing our journey and having rested a good while in another place night came upon us in the midst of a Wood so shady that although we had very clear Moon-light yet we were fain to light Torches otherwise we could not see our way The Torches us'd in India are not like ours but made of metal in form of those wherewith the Infernal Furies are painted the fire of which is fed with Bitumen and other dry materials which are put into the mouth or hollow at the top into which also they frequently powre a combustible liquor which the Man that holds the Torch carries in his other hand in a metalline bottle with a long slender neck very fit for that purpose for when he is minded to recruit the flame he distills a little liquor into it the length of the neck securing his hand from hurt By the light of these Torches we travell'd a great part of the night At length being unable to overtake the Horses which were led before and the baggage being behind for fear of losing our way we stay'd under a great Tree where some in Palanchinoes and others upon the ground spent this night inconveniently and supper-less having nothing else to eat but a little Bread which we toasted at the fire that we might eat it hot and with the same fire which we kindled we allay'd the coldness of the night which in the top of these Indian Mountains is very cold in regard of their height yet it was not sharper to us this night then it uses to be at Rome in the beginning of September even in temperate years November the third As soon as it was day we follow'd our way and in a short time came to a Village of four Cottages call'd Tumbrè where the Horses were lodg'd and we also stay'd till the baggage came up which was much later then we and we stay'd the longer to rest the people that travell'd on foot for all the servants and I know not how many Musketiers which our Ambassador carried with him were on foot Vitulà Sinay lay there likewise this night but was gone before we came thither From Garicota to Tumbrè is about a League and half for in this Country they measure the way by Gau's and every Gaù is about two Leagues and they said that from Garicota to Tumbrè was not one Gaù When we arriv'd at this Town we found the pavements of the Cottages were vernish'd over with Cow-dung mix'd with water A custom of the Gentiles in the places where they are wont to eat as I have formerly observ'd I took it for a superstitious Rite of Religion but I since better understand that it is us'd onely for elegancy and ornament because not using or not knowing how to make such strong and lasting pavements as ours theirs being made sleightly of Earth and so easily spoyl'd therefore when they are minded to have them plain smooth and firm they smear the same over with Cow-dung temper'd with water in case it be not liquid for if it be there needs no water and plaining it either with their hands or some other instrument and so make it smooth bright strong and of a fine green colour the Cows whose dung they use never eating any thing but Grass and it hath one convenience that this polishing is presently made soon dry endures walking or any thing else to be done upon it and the Houses wherein we lodg'd we found were preparing thus at our coming and were presently dry enough for our use Indeed it is a prety Curiosity and I intend to cause tryal to be made of it in Italy and the rather because they say for certain that the Houses whose pavements are thus stercorated are good against the Plague which is no despicable advantage Onely it hath this evil that its handsomness and politeness lasteth not but requires frequent renovation and he that would have it handsome must renew it every eight or ten days yet being a thing so easie to be done and of so little charge it matters not for a little trouble which every poor person knows how 's to dispatch The Portugals use it in their Houses at Goa and other places of India and in brief 't is certain that it is no superstitious custom but onely for neatness and ornament and therefore 't is no wonder that the Gentiles use it often and perhaps every day in places where they eat which above all the rest are to be very neat 'T is true they make a Religious Rite of not eating in any place where people of another Sect or Race in their opinion unclean hath eaten unless they first repolish the same with Cow-dung which is a kind of Purification as we do by washing it with water and whitening the wall not as a Religious Rite but through Custom in Chambers where any one ha's dy'd I said where people not onely of different Religion but also of impure Race have eaten because the Gentiles are very rigorous and superstitious among themselves for a noble Race not to hold Commerce of eating with others more base yea in one and the same Race as in that of the Brachmans which is the noblest some Brachmans as the Panditi or Boti who are held in great esteem amongst them will not eat in the Company or so much as in the House of a Brachmans Sinay or Naieke and other Nobles who eat Fish and are call'd by the general name Mazari and much less esteem'd then those who eat none yet the Brachmans Sinay or Naieke or other species of Mazari who are inferior eat in the House of a Pandito or Boto without being contaminated but rather account it an honor After dinner we departed from Tumbre travelling through unequal wayes and lands like the former but rather descending then otherwise we rested once a while under a Tree to stay for the baggage and then proceeding again at almost six a clock after noon we came to the side of a River called Barenghi which in that place runs from West to East and is not fordable although narrow
discourteous I consented to obey him And till the meat came the King commanded some of his Servants to conduct me to sit down by them in the Porch where I might sit after our manner but not in the King's sight Hereupon I with-drew with some of his Men to entertain me and in the mean time the King remain'd talking with the rest of them concerning me commending me much for several things but above all for a good presence for speaking truly and discreetly like a Gentleman and for my civil deportment But before I proceed further I will here present you with a rough and unmeasur'd draught of the King's House and the place wherein he was so far as may suffice for the better understanding of what is already spoken and is to follow after 1. At the foot of this design is the Gate of the Palace 2. The Walk leading to it and included within the House 3. A great plain and sown field 4. The turning of the Walk before the House where the short lines intersecting the outward line towards the field re-represent the Trees planted at equal distances and in order 5. Seven or eight wooden Stairs leading up to the Porch 6. The Porch of the House in which the little squares near the outer lines are the wooden pillars which support it and the ambient lines the walls 7. The King's Servants standing on either side without the little Porch of the Chamber 8. I Pietro Della Valle when I first talk'd with that King standing 9. The Room wherein the King was 10. The King sitting on the ground upon a little coarse Cloth 11. The King's Nephew sitting on the ground upon a little matt 12. The King's Servants standing 13. I Pietro Della Valle sitting in the said room on the ground upon a little low Table whilst I eat and discours'd with the King a very long time together the place mark'd with the number 13 being that where they set the meat before me 14. A small open Court 15. A small mount or bank in the said Court leading from the more inward Chambers to that where the King was 16. Inner Chambers and Lodgings which what they were I saw not but they were of very bad earthen buildings low and coverd with thatch-like Cottages that is with Palm-leavs which are always to be understood when I speak of Cottages or Houses cover'd with thatch in India 17. I Pietro Della Valle sitting between two of the King's Servants upon the side of the Porch after having spoken the first time with the King entertaining me while the meat was preparing The meat was not long in preparing and being now in order the King call'd for me again to enter into the room where it stood ready and one of the Brachmans who spoke Portugal and was wont to accompany me ask'd me Whether it would not be more convenient for me to ungird my Sword and put off my Cassack I answer'd that my Cassack gave me no trouble nor was there occasion to lay it off but my Sword might be laid aside and therewith ungirding it I gave it him to hold which I did the rather because all Princes being commonly suspicious I imagin'd the King would not like my entring in with Arms and he that goes into another's House to visit him and do him honour is not to disgust but to comply with him in all points So I enter'd without a Sword but yet with shoes and stockins on though with them it be unusual for none should enter into that place but bare-foot and the King himself is so there according to their custum Nor did I scruple their taxing me of uncleanliness as undoubtedly they would have done in Turkie and Persia if I had enter'd into their rooms with shoes or slippers on because there all the rooms are cover'd with Carpets but there was not any in these of the King onely the pavement was gloss'd with Cow-dung Wherefore as to have put off my shoes besides that they are not so easily slip'd off as Pantofles nor does it shew well would have been an exorbitant and unnecessary humility so to enter with them on was to me convenient and decorous without any lyablenes to be accus'd of uncleanliness being the floore was not cover'd if it had been so with Carpets or the like as 't is usualin Turkie and Persia then to avoid seeming slovenly by soiling the place with my dirty shoes and my self by sitting upon them which indeed is not handsome I should have caus'd my shoes to be pull'd off for which purpose I had accordingly caus'd a pair of slippers of our fashion to be brought along with me in case there should have been need of them our kind of shoes being not so easie to be put off by shaking the foot alone without the help of the hand as those which for this end are us'd by all the Eastern people Entring in this manner and saluting the King as I pass'd I went to sit down at the upper end of the Chamber as t is above describ'd where they had prepar'd a little square board of the bigness of an ordinary stool which might serve for asingle person but rais'd no more then four fingers above the ground upon this I sat down crossing my Legs one over the other and that little elevation help'd me to keep them out from under me with such decency as I desir'd Right before the seat upon the bare floor the Indians not using any Tables they had spread instead of a dish as their custom is especially to us Christians with whom they will not defile their own vessels it not being lawful for them ever to eat again in those wherein we have eaten a great Leaf of that Tree which the Arabians and Persians call Mouz the Portugals in India Fichi d' India Indian Fig-trees and upon the said leaf they had lay'd a good quantity of Rice boyl'd after their manner onely with water and salt but for sauce to it there stood on one side a little vessel made of Palm-leavs full of very good butter melted There lay also upon another Leaf one of those Indian Figgs clean and par'd and hard by it a quantity of a certain red herb commonly eaten in India and call'd by the Portugals Brèdo which yet is the general appellation of all sort of herbs In another place lay several fruits us'd by them and amongst the rest seven of the Bambù or great Indian Cane all of them preserv'd in no bad manner which they call Acciaò besides one sort pickled with Vinegar as our Olives are Bread there was none because they use none but the Rice is instead of it which was no great defect to me because I am now accustom'd to want it and eat very little The King very earnestly pray'd me to eat excusing himself often that he gave me so small an entertainment on the sudden for if he had known my coming before-hand he would have prepar'd many Caril and divers
no knowledge of these marvellous rains which render it not onely habitable but also fertile and most delitious Now for that the Country is in some parts so scarce of water many Cities and inhabited places have no other but the rain-water gather'd in these great Cisterns which are so capacious that one of them suffices a City for a whole year and more And it not onely affords drink to men and animals but also they wash clothes and beasts in it when occasion requires and make use of it to all purposes whereby it comes to pass that in some places the water they have is not over clear and the rude Indians care not for such delicacies but 't is enough for them if they have what is barely needful The Cistern or Lake of Suràt hath a great Trench adjoyn'd to it on one side long large and deep over which certain small bridges are built and it falls into another less Cistern a good way off which though but small here comparatively would yet be a very large one in our parts 't is built with many sides of stone like the former as also the banks of the Trench are Between the great Lake and the less upon the Trench stands a small Cupola or arched Structure made for the sepulture of some principal Mahometans of the Country and as they say of two brethren who kill'd one the other and of their Wives 'T is no long time since this Cistern was made according to the common report by a private man of this City but sufficiently wealthy whose Daughter they say or rather one descended from him is still living and I know not by what sinister hap of fortune very poor so that she hath scarce bread to eat Wherein I observ'd a great ingratitude of the Citizens of Suràt in suffering his heir to want food who for their publick benefit had been at so great expence This Poole of Suràt is call'd Gopi Telau that is the Poole of Gopi which was his name who made it at his own charge And although the King who in those dayes rul'd over Guzaràt did what he could to have it call'd after his own name yet that of the Builder has been justly retain'd by the vulgar and remains to this day 'T is not improbable that this Gopi who made this Piscina of Suràt is the same whom Giovanni di Barros in his second Decade of Asia frequently mentions with the title of Melik and relates to have been in those times a little above a hundred years ago a great friend to the Portugals styling him often Lord of Barocci and once in the last book Lord of Suràt but I rather believe that he was onely Governour of either of these Cities under the then Mahometan Kings of Cambaia as he speaks that is of Guzaràt of which Province Cambaia is a principal and in a manner the Maritine City more known then the rest to the Portugals by trade whence they have given its name to the whole Kingdome although not Cambaia but Ahmedabàd more within land is properly the Royal Seat 'T is therefore possible that Melik Gopi mention'd by Barros made this Cistern when he was Governour of Suràt it being the work and expence of such a person Nor do the vulgar mistake in saying that he was a private man since under the Mahometan Princes who never allow any hereditary Lord in their Territories the Governours of their Cities and all other Ministers whom they choose indifferently out of all sorts of people and not seldome out of the lowest plebeians and are always removable at pleasure may with reason be call'd private persons although advanc'd to whatever high dignity On an other side of the City but out of the circuit of the houses in an open place is seen a great and fair Tree of that kind which I saw in the sea coasts of Persia near Ormùz called there Lul but here Ber. The Gentiles of the Country hold it in great veneration for its greatness and age visiting and honoring it often with their superstitious ceremonies as dear and dedicated to a Goddess of theirs call'd Parveti whom they hold to be the Wife of Mahadeù one of their greatest Deities On the trunk of this Tree a little above the ground they have rudely engraven a round circle which really hath not any feature of a humane countenance but according to their gross application represents that of their Idol This face they keep painted with a bright Flesh-colour and this by a sacred rite of Religion as the Romans also dy'd the face of Iupiter with Vermillion as Pliny testifies Round about it are fastned Flowers and abundance of a plant whose leaves resemble a Heart call'd here Pan but in other places of India Betle These leaves the Indians use to champ or chaw all day long either for health's sake or for entertainment and delight as some other Nations for the same reasons or rather through evil custome continually take Tobacco And therewith they mix a little ashes of sea-shels and some small pieces of an Indian Nut sufficiently common which here they call Foufel and in other places Areca a very dry fruit seeming within like perfect wood and being of an astringent nature they hold it good to strengthen the Teeth Which mixture besides its comforting the stomack hath also a certain biting taste wherewith they are delighted and as they chaw it it strangely dyes their lips and mouths red which also they account gallant but I do not because it appears not to be natural They swallow down onely the juice after long mastication and spit out the rest In Visits 't is the first thing offer'd to the visitants nor is there any society or pastime without it He that is curious to know more of it may consult the Natural Historians who have written of the exotick Simples of India particularly Garcias ab Horto Christopher Acosta Nicolaus Monardes translated all together into Latin by Carolus Clusius I shall onely add that the fame I had heard in Persia of this Indian Masticatory especially from an Italian Fryer who had been in India and told me 't was a thing not onely of great nutriment and very good for the stomack but moreover of an exquisite relish made me desirous to try it As for its other qualities I can say nothing but there is no great matter in the taste nor should I make much difference of chawing these leaves of Pan or those of our Cedars But to return to my Relation Those flowers and leaves about the Idol's face carv'd in the Tree are frequently chang'd and fresh constantly supply'd and those which at times are taken away are given as a sacred thing to the people who come from all parts to visit it In the same rude sculpture of a humane face they have put certain eyes of Silver and Gold with some jewels which were given by some persons who foolishly believ'd themselves cur'd of maladies of the eyes by virtue