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A29627 An historical account of Mr. Rogers's three years travels over England and Wales giving a true and exact description of all the chiefest cities, towns and corporations in England, Dominion of Wales, and town of Berwick upon Twede : together with the antiquities, and places of admiration, cathedrals, churches of note in any city, town or place in each county, the gentleman above-mentioned having made it his whole business (during the aforesaid time) to compleat the same in his travelling, : to which is annexed a new map of England and Wales, with the adjacent parts, containing all the cities and market towns bound in just before the title. Brome, James, d. 1719.; D. J. 1694 (1694) Wing B4857; ESTC R39940 65,229 160

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the Charters by which the Scotch King stood obliged to do Homage to the King of England and thereupon ensued a great War betwixt them for King David being spurred on by the French King Invaded England and having made a great Road into the Northern Counties and spoiling and burning every where as they went along at length at Durham his Army was routed and himself taken Prisoner being first sent to the Tower afterward committed to this Castle where during his consinement he engraved upon the Walls of his Deportment the History of our Saviour's Death and Passion the Relicts of which are still to be seen After eleven Years Imprisonment he was restored against to his Kingdom by paying a good Ransom for his Liberty but before he returned he was one of the four Kings that was nobly Treated by Henry Picard a Vintner then Lord Mayor of London These were the four Kings Edward the Third King of England John King of France David King of the Scots and the King of Cyprus together with Edward The Black Prince all bearing him company at the same Table this was about the Year 1358. But before I leave this Town I cannot but take notice of one thing more memorable in our Age this being the first place where King Charles the First set up his Royal Standard against the Rebels in the late unhappy Wars and when the King's Forces were forced to leave it the Castle was quite demolished We went from hence to view the Chair of Robin-Hood of which it follows Having pleasured our selves with the Antiquities of this Town we took Horse and went to visit the Well and ancient Chair of Robin-Hood which is about a Mile within the Forest of Shirwood Being placed in that Chair we had a Cap which they say was his very formally put upon our Heads and having performed the usual Ceremonies befitting so great a Solemnity we received the Freedom of the Chair and were incorporated into the Society of that renowned Brotherhood but that we may not receive such Privileges without an honourable mentioning of the Persons that left them to Posterity know we must that the Patent was bequeathed to the inferior Rangers of this Forest by Robin Hood and Little John honourable Personages indeed being the chief Lords of some most renowned Robbers in the Reign of King Richard the First This same Robin Hood entertained one Hundred tall Men all good Archers with the Spoil he daily made himself Master of whom four Hundred tho' every way well Accoutred to give Battel durst scarce make an Onset He suffered no Woman to be violated oppress'd oa any ways molested poor Men's Goods he spared and did relieve them very liberally with what he got from the rich Carles He killed none and by this means he did for a long time keep up the Order of Knight Errants Having for some time pleased our selves with our new Brothers that very curteously entertained us we went from hence into Yorkshire The County of York is the greatest Shire by far of all England and is thought to be in a temperate measure fruitful If in one place there be stony and sandy barren ground in another place there are for it Corn-fields as rich and fruitful if it be void and destitute of Woods here you shall find it shadowed in another place with most thick Forests The Length extendeth from Hart-hill in the South to the Mouth of Tees in the North which is near seventy Miles the breadth from Flambrough-head to Horn-Castle upon the River Lun is Eighty the whole circumference three hundred and eight Miles HELMSLEY a Mannor in Yorkshire hath two Parks and a Chase in it said to be about 146 Miles in compass and had 40000 Timber-Trees and 200 Acres of Wood. There are many Free-holders there The whole Shire is divided into 3 parts which according to the 3 Quarters of the World are called The West-Riding The East-Riding The North-Riding West-Riding for a good while is compassed in with the River Ouse with the bound of Lancashire and with the South limits of the Shire and beareth toward the West and South East-Riding looketh to the Sun-rising and the Ocean which together with the River Derwent encloseth it North-Riding reacheth Northward hemmed in as it were with the River Tees with Derwent and a long race of the River Ouse YORK is the fairst City in all this County and deservedly reputed the Second of England for its Greatness and Munificence the pleasantness of its Situation the Buildings are stately and beautiful The whole City is rich glorious and honourable both in respect of its being governed by a Lord Mayor who moderates in all Cases of Temporal Affairs as also by an Archbishop who is Judge in all Spiritual Matters The River Ouse flowing with a gentle Stream from the North part cutteth it in twain and divided as it were into two Cities which are conjoined with a stone Bridge having one mighty Arch. There is a Cathedral Church dedicated to Saint Peter an excellent fair and stately Fabrick near unto which there is the Prince's House commonly called The Mannour York was a Colony of the Romans Ptolomey and Antonine and also by a piece of Money coined by the Emperour Severus in the reverse whereof we read COL EBORACUMLEG VI. VICTRIX Severus had his Palace in this City and here at the hour of death gave up his last breath with these words I entered upon a State every way troublesome and I leave it peaceable even to the Britains There are many fine Seats of Persons of Quality by reason of the Pleasantness of its Soil which abounds in Plenty of all things and for Pleasure and Recreation it affords the most of any County in England In the North-Riding of this County is Ounsbery-Hill or Rosebery-Topping which mount-up a mighty height and maketh a goodly shew a farre off so often as the Head thereof hath his cloudy Cap on lightly there followeth rain whence they have a proverbial Rhime When Rosebery-Topping wears a Cap Let Cliveland then beware a clap I could have particuliz'd several other Towns and Villages in this Shire but what has been related is most material and again the Volume is but small and would not bear it In this County there are 459 Parishes under which are very many Chappels for number of Inhabitants equal unto great Parishes We went from hence into the Bishoprick of Durham of which it follows Durham The chief Town in Latin Dunelmum a County Palatine and a Bishop's See 't is situated upon a Hill and encompassed almost round by the River Were is also shaped in form of an Egg and strongly fortified both by Art and Nature There is a stately Cathedral which makes a fine and lofty shew with an high Tower in the midst and two Spires at the West end The County in general is very pleasant and rich in its Mountains with Iron and Coals and its Vallies with Corn and Grass But before I leave this County
was brought to Winchester and buried in this place though afterwards his Bones were Translated into a Coffer At the West end of the Quire stands in Brass two Statues very curiously wrought the one of King James the First and the other of King Charles the First of ever blessed Memory there is another thing also very remarkable in the Cathedral and that is the rich and famous Monument of William of Wickham who was Constituted Bishop of Winchester in the Reign of Edward the Third But to return again into our Discourse relating to the City We find it not only to have attained a great Eminency for its Religious Houses for its pleasant Gardens for its Silver-stream'd Brooks and flowry Meadows for its publick and private Edifices for its great Hall wherein the Assizes are usually held for the County of Southampton not to be parallel'd for Length and Breadth by any throughout this Nation except Westminster for the Antiquity of its Corporation with the true and exact Rules of Equity and Justice prescribed by its Governors and Magistrates 't is likewise reported to have been very famous and renowned by its Sufferings and Ruins of its Palaces and in the time of Adelstane King of the West Saxons that invinceable Hero Guy Earl of Warwick in a single Combat slew Colbrand the Danish Giant in Hide-Mead near to this City After some time spent here we travelled to Portsmouth of which I come next to discourse of PORTSMOUTH is about 16 Miles distant from Winchester and situated in a little Island called Portsey 'T is a place of great Strength and of no less importance by reason of the Dock where many of the King 's greatest Men of War are built those impregnable Wooden-Walls of our Brittish Island 'T is fortified with a Wall made of Timber and the same well covered over with thick Banks of Earth 't is likewise environed with a double Trench over which are placed two Drawbridges from which about a Mile distance is another and at all of them stands Centuries of Soldiers who are kept in Garrison with a little Fortress adjoining to it which leads up the Continent to the Seaward is a Castle and Block-houses which being first begun by King Edward the Fourth King Henry the Seventh as it is reported did afterwards compleat which Fortifications have of late Years received exceeding great Augmentations by the succeeding Monarchs especially in the late King Jame's Reign Here is only one Church and an Hospital called God's House built by Peter Roch Bishop of Winchester hereabouts are divers Saltpanhouses which make exceeding white Salt Much more might have been wrote concerning this County but this may suffice for these two Reasons the first is The smallness of the Volume will not allow it and the second is That what has been related is the notablest and most requisite to be mention'd Sussex The next place of Note we went to was Chichester in Sussex 'T is a good large City well Wall'd re-built by the second Saxon King of this Province it was before the Conquest of a small Repute Bishop Raulf built a Cathedral here which before he had fully finished was consumed by Fire yet by his Endeavours and the bounteous Liberality of King Henry the First it was raised up again and is now a Bishop's See The Church is not very large but was formerly a curious beautiful Fabrick having a Spire-steeple of Stone of a very great height and an high Tower standing near the West Door which was built by King Rinon as they say In the South Cross-Isle of the Church was formerly on the one side artificially pourtrayed and painted the History of the Churches Foundation with the Images of the Kings of England on the other there was likewise the Images of the Bishops at the charge of Bishop Sherborne who greatly Adorned and Illustrated this sacred Structure The City is walled about in a circular round Form the Lavant a pretty River running hard by it on the South and West sides It hath four Gates opening to the four Quarters of the World from whence the Streets leads directly and cross themselves in the midst where the Market is kept and where Bishop Read Erected a fair stone Market-house supported with Pillars round about We went from hence to Amberly Castle which is about 12 Miles from Chichester higher into the County it was built by William Read Bishop of Chichester in the Reign of Edward the Third for the use of his Successors and Leased out now to the worthy Family of the Butlers who are the present Inhabitants We stayed here the space of a Week where we were generously Entertained with great courtesie and civility We went from hence to Arundel and from thence to Lewes of which take this brief Account ARUNDEL is about four Miles from Amberly situated upon the Brow of an Hill but finding nothing to detain us here but the Ruins of an old Castle which for many Generations hath successively appertained to the Earls of Arundel we travell'd on to LEWES which was the next Town we came to 'T is situated upon a Rising almost on every side and hath been Wall'd but now there is no great sign of the Walls there is several Streets near it as Suburbs and in the times of the Saxons when King Athelston made a Law for the coining of Money he appointed two Coiners in this place There are five Churches belonging to it and this place was very memorable for that Mortal and bloody Battel between King Henry the Third and the Barons in which prosperous beginning of the Fight on the King's side proved the overthrow of his whole Army for whilst Prince Edward his Son breaking by force through certain of the Baron's Troops carelesly pursued the Enemy over-far as making sure account of the Victory the Barons having reinforced themselves and giving a fresh Charge so discomforted and put to flight the King's Forces that they constrained the King to accept of unequal Conditions of Peace and to deliver his Son and others into their hands From hence we went to Pevensey or Pemsey of which it follows PEVENSEY or PEMSEY There is a very low Level which some are of Opinion hath been over-flowed by the Sea and the Town of Pevensey is the noted place for the first Landing of William the Conqueror and formerly there was a Haven and Castle Hastings is not far from hence where was fought that bloody Battel betwixt King Harold and the Norman Duke which proved so fatal to the English and successful to the Normans which Ground where the Fight was hath been thought ever since to have worn the Conqueror's Livery because always after Rain it looks of a reddish colour I could haved cited other Remarks in this County but what is related is most material Kent 'T is a County divided into three several Portions the first of which is called Health without Wealth the second is Health and Wealth and the third Wealth without Health to all
the Diabolical Regions The Second Wonder Is Mamtar 't is a high steep Cliff and from the top of which Cliff or Rock the Sand tho' the Air be never so Calm doth continually trickle to the bottom Night and Day and now and then great Stones fall down with a very great Noise and do much affright the poor Neighbouring Inhabitants On the top of it bubbles up a Fountain which in some places streams down the Cliff The Third Wonder Is a Fountain which Ebbs and Flows like the Sea receiving an influence from the Moon and observing the same regular Motions by which the Ocean it self continually is regulated The Fourth Wonder Is called the Marble Stones by their orderly Dispositions into several rows one row higher than another it seems rather to be the contrivance of Art than of Nature but that we ought not to Derogate from that great Parent whose production are continually Rare and Unimitable The Fifth Wonder Is Elden Hole near unto the Fourth Wonder 't is reputed a bottomless Abyss and could never as yet by any Art be Fathomed The Mouth of it is wide and craggy but the inward recesses contracted and intrecate There is a Story that they let a Man down by Ropes and Candles to light him to give an Account of this infernal Pit but paid dearly for his Presumption with the loss of his life for his Boldness The Sixth Wonder Is Buxtons-Well about two Miles from the fifth Wonder it glories in a hot Well 't is inclosed in a very fair Stone Building erected formerly by the Earl of Shrewsbury the Operation is very near to that of the Cross Bath having two Springs of Water the one within a hand breadth of the other and one is Hot the other cold as Ice The Seventh and last Wonder Is Pool Hole 't is a Hollow Cave under a very high Rock bearing some resemblance with that by the City of Wells called Ochy Hole but not containing in it self half so great Varieties From hence we went into Cheshire It is a County Palatine and of great Note for plenty of several Commodities as also for most excellent Cheese and the Men and Women are generally Acounted very Handsome here There is in this County great store of Salt-Springs Mettals and Mines and in the River Dee is plenty of Salmons on the South part of Cheshire Trees are very frequently found by Diging under the Ground which is believed have been here ever since Noah's Flood The chief Town of this County is West Chester a City famous for its Antiquity and Situation and no less for its Renown 't is Built in the form of a Quadrant with very spacious Houses neat and uniform and environed with a very strong Wall and hath a Castle stands upon a high Hill near the River Dee strongly Fortified Here are several Churches which are very Antient and goodly Fabricks but especially for the Cathedrals The Houses are very fairly Built and along the chief Streets are Galleries or Walking-places they call them Rows haing Shops on both sides through which a Man may walk dry from one end to another NANTWICH which the River Wever first visiteth is reputed the greatest and fairest built Town of all this Shire after Chester It is called the White-wich or Salt-pich because the whitest Salt is there boiled This Shire containeth 13 Market Towns and 68 Parishes We went next into Shropshire Or the County of Salop is for the most part Rich in Corn and Cattle and glories in in its most famous City of Shrewsbury which is compassed almost round by the River Severn having two fair Bridges upon it and is Fortified both by Art and Nature It is like a Horse-shew in the opening place and doubtless deserves the Observation of all Travellers more than any Town or City in this Nation and is built upon the Riseing of a Hill the Churches are very fair and Spacious it is inhabited with both Welsh and English speaking both Languages One of their Rarities there is their Cakes such as cannot be made so well in any other place of England and many things here is very observable which I shall not mention because they have been allready so well set fourth by other Pens From hence we went into LUDLOW is one of the chiefest Towns in this County and is of greater Antiquity than Beauty 't is Situated by a pleasant River and is famous for its Castle built by Roger Earl of Mountgomery who environed it with a Wall a Mile in compass afterwards when Robert Earl of Shrewsbury and Eldest Son to Mountgomery was taken in his Rebellion against Henry the First and was banished out of the Land the King took this Castle into his own Hands after this it was given away from the Crown by King Henry the Second and came into the Family of the Lacys and Mortimors at last to be the inheritance of the Princes of Wales And by this means beginning to be in great request the Inhabitants erected a very large Church to make it more Famous and in a little time it excelled all its Neighbourhood and out-shin'd them in Lustre and Dignity for King Henry the Eighth instituted here the Counsel of the Marches of Wales in which he Ordered there should be a President Secretary Attorney and Solicitor four Justices of some of the Neighbouring Counties of Wales and as many other Privy Counsellours as the Prince of Wales should Elect to be Assistant to himself in this Court being erected for his own particular Use and Service We staid in this Town but two Nights and went from hence into Staffordshire Is very Rich in Pasture and Cattle and enriched by the River Trent Trigenta as some will have it because there are Thirty several Streams or Rivolets which run into it or Thirty several sorts of Fish which Swims within its Streams However 't is very Advantageous to the whole County the first Town of Note we came to in this County was STAFFORD is situated on a pleasant Soil sweet Air Environed with a Wall and Fortified with Gates and adorned with two Churches and a Spacious Free-School and a large Market-place and the Houses very Handsome and Beautiful it is Governed by a Mayor and Aldermen not far from the Town are to be seen the Ruins of an old Castle Situated upon a Hill heretofore belonging to the Barons of Stafford LICHFIELD This City is low Seated of good Largeness and Fair withall divided into two parts with a shallow pool of clear Water which Parts notwithstanding join in one by the means of two Bridges or Causeys made over that have their Sluces made to let out the Water It was beautified with a very goodly Cathedral Church which being round about compassed with a fair Wall-Castle-like and garnished besides with fair Houses of Prebendaries and with the Bishop's Palace also mounting up on high with three Pyramids or Spires of Stone making a lovely shew and for elegant and proportional Building it did yield to