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A07834 An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson Gent. First in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres trauell through the tvvelue dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts. The I. part. Containeth a iournall through all the said twelue dominions: shewing particularly the number of miles, the soyle of the country, the situation of cities, the descriptions of them, with all monuments in each place worth the seeing, as also the rates of hiring coaches or horses from place to place, with each daies expences for diet, horse-meate, and the like. The II. part. Containeth the rebellion of Hugh, Earle of Tyrone, and the appeasing thereof: written also in forme of a iournall. The III. part. Containeth a discourse vpon seuerall heads, through all the said seuerall dominions. Moryson, Fynes, 1566-1630. 1617 (1617) STC 18205; ESTC S115249 1,351,375 915

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1. Of the fit meanes to trauell and to hier Coaches or Horsesin generall Chap. 2. Of Sepulchers Monuments and Buildings in generall for I haue formerly spoken particularly of them Chap. 3. Of Germany Bohmerland and Sweitzerland touching the Geographicall description the situation the fertility the trafficke and the diet Chap. 4. Of the vnited Prouinces in Netherland and of Denmark and Poland touching the said subiects of the precedent third Chapter Chap. 5. Of Italy touching all the subiects of the third Chapter going before The third Booke Chap. 1. Of the geographicall description of Turky the situation fertility trafficke and diet Chap. 2. Of France touching the particular subiects of the first Chapter Chap. 3. Of England touching the particular subiects of the first Chapter Chap. 4. Of Scotland touching the subiects contained in the first Chapter Chap. 5. Of Ireland touching the particular subiects of the first Chapter The fourth Booke Chap. 1. Of the Germans Bohemians Sweitzers Netherlanders Daues Polouians and Italians apparell Chap. 2. Of the Turkes French English Scottish and Irish apparell Chap. 3. Of the Germans and Bohemians Commonwealth vnder which title I containe an historicall introduction the Princes Pedegrees and Courts the present state of things the Tributes and Reuenewes the military state for Horse Foot and Nauy the Courts of Iustice rare Lawes more specially the Lawes of inheritance and of womens Dowries the Capitall Iudgements and the diuersitie of degrees in Families and in the Common-wealth Chap. 4. Of the particular Commonwealths as well of the Princes of Germany as of the free Cities such of both as haue absolute power of life and death Chap. 5. Of the Commonwealth of Sweitzerland according to the diuers subiects of the third Chapter Chap. 6. Of the Netherlanders Commonwealth according to the foresaid subiects of the third Chapter The rest of this VVorke not as yet fully finished treateth of the following Heads Chap 1. OF the Commonwealth of Denmarke vnder which title I containe an historicall introduction the Kings Pedegree and Court the present state of the things the Tributes and Reuenewes the military power for Horse Foot and Nauy the Courts of Iustice rare Lawes more specially those of Inheritance and Dowries and Contracts for mariage the Capitoll or Criminall Iudgements and the diuersitie of degrees in Families and the Commonwealth Chap. 2. Of the Commonwealth of Poland vnder which title c. Chap. 3. Of the Commonwealth of Italy touching the historicall introduction the Princes pedegrees the Papall dominion and the Late power of the King of Spaine with some other subiects of the first Chapter Chap. 4. Of the particular Commonwealth of Venice touching most of the foresaid subiects Chap. 5. Of the Commonwealth of the Duke of Florence the Cities of Lucca and Genea with the Dukes of Urbino and of Mantoua Chap. 6. Of the Commonwealth of Italy in generall touching the rest of the heads which belong to the generall State of Italy rather then of any part thereof Chap. 7. Of the Commonwealth of the Turkish Empire vnder which title c. as followeth in the first Chapter Chap. 8. Of the Commonwealth of France vnder which title c. Chap. 9. Of the Commonwealth of England vnder which title c. Chap. 10. Of the Commonwealth of Scotland vnder which title c. Chap. 11. Of the Commonwealth of Ireland vnder which title c. Chap. 12. Of Germany touching Religion Chap. 13. Of Bhemerland Sweitzerland the vnited Prouinces of Netherland of Denmark and Poland touching Religion Chap. 14. Of Italy touching Religion Chap. 15. Of the Turkish Empire touching Religion Chap. 16. Of France England Scotland and Ireland touching Religion Chap. 17. Of the Germans nature wit manners bodily gifts Vniuersities Sciences Arts language pompous Ceremonies specially at Marriages Christnings and Funerals of their customes sports exercises and particularly hunting Chap. 18. Of the Bohemians Sweitzers and Netherlanders of the vnited Prouinces their natures wits manners c. Chap. 19. Of the Danes and Polonians nature c. Chap. 20. Of the Italians nature wit c. Chap. 21. Of the Turkes nature c. Chap. 22. Of the Frenchmens nature c. Chap. 23. Of the Englishmens nature c. Chap. 24. Of the Scotchmens and Irishmens natures wits manners c. Chap. 25. A generall but briefe discourse of the Iewes the Grecians and the Moscouites A briefe Table to vnderstand in the First Part the expences in small Coynes most commonly spent For England A Gold Angell of the standard of 23 Caracts 3 graines and an halfe is three peny waight and 8 graines and is giuen for ten siluer shillings 12 pence making a shilling the siluer being of the standard of 11 ounces two peny weight and the shilling foure penny or ninety six graines weight For Scotland and Ireland The English Coynes are currant and spent For Germany The Reichs Doller of Germany is worth foure shillings foure pence and the siluer Gulden is accounted three shillings foure pence English Twenty Misers siluer Groshen 32 Lubecke shillings 45 Embden stiuers foure Copstucks and a halfe 55 groates 36 Maria grosh 18 spitz-grosh 18 Batz make a Reichs Doller Two sestings make a Lubecke shilling foure Drier a siluer grosh two dreyhellers a Drier two schwerd grosh a schneberger foure creitzers a batz foure pfennning a creitzer For Bohemia Three Pochanels make a Creitzer 9 creitzers and one Pochanell make foure weissgrosh of Morauia 30 grosh a Doller two hallers a pfenning and 5 pfenning a grosh For Sweitzerland Six Rappen make a Plappart or 3 Creitzers and 20 Plapparts or 60 Creitzers make a siluer gulden two finferlins make a finfer and 5 a batz foure angster make a creitzer twelue a Bemish 60 creitzers a siluer gulden For the Low Countries Foure Orkees or Doights make a stiuer two blanks a stiuer and a halfe six stiuers a shilling 20 stiuers a gulden or three shillings foure pence being two shillings English 20 shillings a pound and one hundred pound Flemish makes sixty pound English For Denmarke Two Danish shillings make one Lubecke and 66 Danish shillings make one Reichs Doller For Poland Thirty Polish Grosh make a siluer Gulden 40 a Reichs Doller three Pochanels a Creitzer seuen a Grosh For Italy The siluer Crowne almost fiue shillings English is giuen for 7 Lires of Uenice two Lires make a Iustino 20 Soldi a Lire one Lire and 4 Soldi a Mutsenigo 4 Bagatines a Quatrine two Betsior 3 Quatrines or a Susine and a halfe make a Soldo two Quatrines make a Susine three Susines a Boligneo and 12 Bolignei a Lire Ten Giulij or Poali or Carlini make a siluer Crowne ten Baocci a Giulio or Paolo foure Quatrines a Baocco eight Baelli or Creitzers make a Giulio twenty Soldi or Bolignei of Genoa make a Lire of Genoa whereof 15 make 20 shillings English and 3 of these Lires with 15 Soldi make a siluer Crowne seuen Soldi and an halfe make a Reale foure Soldi a Caualotto
market neither dare any man sell ought before his price be set and vpon the Butchers stals a bill is set of the prices at which they must sell their meat so as a stranger cannot be deceiued The price of wheat was 120. lires the Moggio containing forty eight English peckes and each lire is a giulio and a halfe The Toscanes hold Rammes stones fried for a great daintie which they call 1 a Granella and sell it after a giulio the pound at Sienna commonly they eat Kids flesh for three baeli the pound and a whole Kidde for foure giulij and a halfe Mutton two baeli and a halfe the pound a Kiddes head three baeli Bacon eighteene quatrines the pound Cheese a giulio the pound little birds a quatrine a peece a vessell of wine containing thirty two boccali and a halfe for ten giulij and two baeli The eighteenth of Nouember in the yeere 1594 I rode forty miles to Lucca and ten to Pisa. If any man desire to know the right way from Sienna to Pisa I will set it downe by relation of a friend who rode the same in a day and night without intermission being fifty miles the first seuen through mountaines thirteene miles through pleasant hils and thirty miles in a plaine tilled after the Lombard fashion with corne and vines growing vpon Elmes and he reported the way to be most safe by night as well as day though a man were knowne to carry money But I returne to my owne iourney from Sienna where I hired a horse to Lucca for foureteene giulij and the first day in the morning I rode twenty two miles to Castell Fiorentine in a narrow plaine betweene fruitfull hils of pasture and corne By the way I lighted at Castell Certaldo seated vpon a mount that I might see the sepulcher of Iohn Boccacio vpon which these verses of his owne inuention while he liued were engrauen Hac sub Mole iacent cineres ac ossa Iohannis Mens sedet ante Deum meritis ornatalaboris Mortalis vitae genitor Boccacius illi Patria Certaldo studium fuit alma Poesis Vnder this Pile Iohns bones and ashes lie His soule at rest enioies his labours hire Borne at Certald he studied Poesie Boccacio was the sirname of his Syre Collucius Pierius hath added more in old Lombard letters in the yeere 1375 and vppon the very sepulcher other writings are raced out vnder which this is written in Latine Lact antius Theobaldus when he was Podesta or Gouernour at Certaldo for the people of Florence admiring his pleasant wit and quicke inuention did for the renewing of his memory erect this monument to him at his owne charge and that by fines imposed in the yeere 1500. Also his statua without a beard carued in marble was set vpon his Toome At Castell Fiorentino I paid three giulij and a halfe for my dinner and one giulio for my horse-meate After dinner I rode fifteene miles to Ponte Capiano where euery horse of Carriers laded and of Vetturines hired paieth two giulij to the Duke which taxe they say the Duke imposed to withdraw Merchants from trading that way leading to Lucca All the way the fields were tilled on the Lombard fashion with corne and vines growing vpon Elmes Before we had rode two miles I passed the Riuer Arno and paid halfe a giulio for my passage At Ponte Capiano I paid ten baeli for my supper vpon reckoning twelue baeli for oates for my horse and eight baeli for hay straw and stable roome The second day in the morning I rode through the like way hauing mountaines on my right hand towards the North seuen miles in the state of Florence and six miles to Lucca in that free state This City I haue discribed before and here I paid for my dinner vpon reckoning two giulij and a halfe After dinner I hired a horse for two giulij and rode through like way in a fruitfull plaine fiue miles in the state of Lucca and then fiue miles more to Pisa passing into that state ouer a high mountaine and the rest of the way lying through fenny grounds This City I haue discribed before and here I paid for my supper three giulij or reali And because the passage by sea was more dangerous from Ligorno to Genoa I hired a horse to Lirigi for one piastro or siluer crowne The first day I rode twelue miles through an open plaine to Via Regia and there passing out of the state of Florence into that of Lucca I rode eight miles through a thicke wood where the quarters of theeues were newly hung vp who few daies before had robbed and almost killed a Frenchman and then entering againe the state of Florence I rode one mile to Pietra Santa and fiue miles more in the same state of Florence and one mile and a halfe in the state of Lucca and halfe a mile to Masso in the state of the Prince of Masso who is a Marquesse of the Family of Malaspina All this way being through a plaine tilled after the manner of Lombardy with mountaines of Chesse-nuts on the right hand hauing in all rode this day twenty eight miles In this Citty of Masso the Post-master staied vs from going any further pretending to giue vs new horses because those we had were hired of his man at Pisa but the true cause was that we might lodge in his house that night to which my companions agreed but my selfe being destrous to see the quarries of marble at Carrara tooke of him halfe the piastro I had paid at Pisa and so I left my horse Then turning out of the way I went on foot three miles to Carara through wooddy mountaines abounding with Chesse-nuts This Towne is subiect to the Prince of Masso and is famous for the marble which is much preferred before other as well for the exceeding whitenes of some stones as for the length of pillars and tables digged thence which madeit much esteemed at Rome in the time of the free state and of the Empire and by reason it lies neere the sea the stones are more easily conuaied to Rome or els where In one of the quarries called Pianella I did see many stones digged out which were as white as snow and other quarries haue veines of all colours and they sell as much marble as an Oxe will draw for twenty sols but if it be carued there the price is greater according to the workemanship Each quarry is proper to some priuate man and if any man digge in another mans quarry they fine him at twenty crownes or more according to the dammage When I beheld the beauty of Men and Weomen in these parts which seemed to me greater then in any other part of Italy I remembred the Patriarke Iacob who laid party coloured rods in the watring troughes when the Ewes were in heat to make them bring party coloured lambes and I thought by the same reason and force of nature that they who digged
breeches are open behind with the shirt hanging out that they may case themselues without helpe Among other Princes of Italy I did see Ferdinand the third Duke of Florence who did weare a cloke of English cloth with one little lace and breeches of Veluct without any ornament and stockings of leather and a leather scabbard to his sword and his Coach was lined with old greene Veluct and the Horses seemed taken out of the Plough The women in generall are delighted with mixed and light colours The women of Venice weare choppines or shoos three or foure hand-bredths high so as the lowest of them seeme higher then the tallest men and for this cause they cannot goe in the streetes without leaning vpon the shoulder of an old woman They haue another old woman to beare vp the traine of their gowne they are not attended with any man but onely with old women In other parts of Italy they weare lower shooes yet somewhat raised and are attended by old women but goe without any helpe of leading The women of Venice weare gownes leauing all the necke and brest bare and they are closed before with a lace so open as a man may see the linnen which they lap about their bodies to make them seeme fat the Italians most louing fat women They shew their naked necks and breasts and likewise their dugges bound vp and swelling with linnen and all made white by art They weare large falling bands and their haire is commonly yellow made so by the Sunne and art and they raise vp their haire on the forehead in two knotted hornes and deck their heads vncouered haire with flowers of silke and with pearle in great part counterfeit And they cast a black vaile from the head to the shoulders through which the nakednesse of their shoulders and neckes and breasts may easily be seene For this attire the women of Venice are prouerbially said to be Grande dilegni Grosse di straci rosse dibettito bianche di calcina that is tall with wood fat with ragges red with painting and white with chalke The women of Genoa are attired much after the French fashion and by reason of neighbourhood borrow diuers manners from France which is also to be vnderstood of other Cities lying vnder the French Alpes and they goe abroad either alone or attended by men not by women as in other parts yea by night and early in the morning to the Church which suspected fashions other Italians cannot endure They weare nets and blacke vailes couering there with their faces contrary to the French manner without which the poorest woman goes not abroad In generall the Women of Italy for diuers Cities haue some fashions differing from other most commonly but especially the wiues of shopkeepers weare gowns of silke and light stuffes yea wouen with gold and those close at the brest and necke with a standing collar and little ruffes close vp to the very chinne and shewing no part naked And Gentlewomen in generall weare gownes loose behind with a close collar hiding all nakednesse and with traines borne vp by waitingmaides and sometimes with open hanging sleeues The married women weare their heads bare or couered with a fine linnen coyfe and a hat and a vaile hanging downe from the hinder part of the head to the backe The vnmarried haue their heads bare with their haire knotted like snakes and tied with gold and siluer laces or else they are couered with a gold netted cawle and they weare also gold chaines The married women weare chaines of pearle about the head and necke which in some places are forbidden to Virgins and these pearles are many times especially at Venice counterfet and made of glasse but very beautifull to the eye Widdowes and Women that mourne couer all their head and shoulders with a blacke vaile and vpon the forehead they weare a shadow or bongrace and about their neckes a white vaile hanging downe before to their feete The Countrey wenches weare vpon their heads gold and siluer cawles or at least seeming such and straw hats and guilded girdles and for the rest as other women are delighted with light colours The City Virgins and especially Gentlewomen couer their heads face and backes with a Vaile that they may not be seene passing the streetes and in many places weare silke or linnen breeches vnder their gownes Also I haue seene honourable Women aswell married as Virgines ride by the high way in Princes traines apparrelled like Men in a doublet close to the body and large breeches open at the knees after the Spanish fashion both of carnation silke or satten and likewise riding astride like men vpon Horses or Muses but their heads were attired like Women with bare haires knotted or else couered with gold netted cawles and a hat with a feather And many times in the Cities as at Padua I haue seene Curtizans in plaine English whores in the time of shrouing apparrelled like men in carnation or light coloured doublets and breeches and so playing with the racket at Tennis with yong men at which time of shrouing the Women no lesse then Men and that honourable women in honourable company goe masked and apparrelled like men all the afternoone about the streetes euen from Christmasse holydaies to the first day in Lent The Women wearing Mens breeches haue them open all before and most part behind onely buttoned with gold or siluer buttons And the Curtizans make all the forepart of their gownes in like manner open to auoide wrinckling Lastly the Italians vse to tie themselues vpon a vow for recouery of health or like cause to weare certaine apparrell for a time or for life and if the vow be in repentance of sinne the colour is ash colour vulgarly Beretino which I haue seene some weare for long time constantly with purpose to weare them during life CHAP. II. Of the Turkes French English Scottish and Irish Apparrell THe Turks shaue their heads but only in the very crowne where they leaue a tuffr of haire and they doe not now as of old onely nourish the haire of the vpper lip but al the beard growing round They couer their head thus shaued with a close cap of Scarlet and aboue it weare some twelue or twenty elles of fine white cotton cloth wouen into a round globe which in their tongue is called a Tulbent and by some Tsalma neither do they euer vncouer their heads in honour to any man but salute by bending the body and laying their left hand on their right side This cap or this head as they call it is hollow and so admits aire being borne vp by little hoopes and so cooles the head yet being thicke keepes out the Sunne from piercing it and being of most fine linnen is much lighter then our hats All the Orders or degrees among the Turkes are knowne by the ornament of the head or by their heades as they speake The Azimoglanes weare Pyramidall caps like sugar-loues of a mingled colour
Horse praised for swiftnesse seemes not to feare the heauy horses of Germany Surely though I doe not thinke the Germans to degenerate from the valour of their old Progenitors yet I haue read the Histories and haue heard the Gentlemen of France in our time much inueighing against them First that being in neutrall or friends Countries farre distant from the enemy they consumed wine and victuals as if they had been borne to no other end and spoyled all mens goods but when the enemy drew neare that not content with their former spoyles they would then murinie for pay and refuse otherwise to fight when the Princes had no present meanes to satisfie them yea and for want of it would threaten to leaue their party and goe to the enemy bearing no more affection to the one then the other Secondly that in all Armies wherein their strength was predominant and especially vpon the approch of the enemy they were prone to threatnings and seditious demeanour Thirdly that the horse hauing giuen one assault without successe could by no intreaty no reward no hope of victory be induced to giue a second charge Fourthly that once put out of order and routed they could neuer be gathered againe together Fiftly that in the battell of Mountcontour by confused feare they had almost exposed themselues and the whole Armie to the sword and that in the next battell hauing the victory they spared neither man woman nor child but like Beares raged against their yeelding suppliants stil crying Mountcontour Mount contour for the word of reuenge Lastly that the leuies of thē are an excessiue charge that they consume abundance of victuals and especially wine and cannot beare with any want of the least of them and are a great burthen to an Army with their baggage Touching victuals I haue heard the Citizens of Vienna being themselues Germans yet freely professing that when the Turkes made a shew to besiege them and incamped on one side of the towne they suffered farre greater losse by the souldiers receiued into the Towne to helpe them then by the enemies spoiling all abroad Touching their baggage euery footeman hath his wench that carries on her backe a great packe and a brasse pan while the souldier himselfe goes empty carrying nothing but his Armes And at Strasburg I did see certaine troopes of horse enter the Towne sent from the Marquis of Brandeburg to aide the Citizens against the Duke of Loraine which horsemen had an vnspeakeable number of carts to carry their Armes and other necessaries and vpon each cart sat a Cocke which creature as most watchfull the Germans haue of most old custome vsed to carry with them to the warres I cannot passe in silence the iudgement of an Italian well knowne though by mee vnnamed who because the Germans in our age haue had some ill successes in the warre doth attribute the same to the impurity of the reformed Religion prosessed by them wherein he sophistically obtrudes the false cause for the true not much vnlike the old man recorded in our Histories who being asked for his age and experience what he thought to be the cause of Goodwyn sands neare the mouth of the Thames answered that hee thought the building of Tenterton Steeple was the cause thereof because no such sands were seene till the time when it was built Nothing is more manifest then that the Germans of the reformed Religion nothing yeeld or rather much excell the Germans continuing Papists in all manuall Arts Liberall Sciences and all indowments of Nature which may clearely be proued by one instance of the Norenbergers and Sweitzers professing the reformed Religion who in all Arts and the military profession passe all other Germans whatsoeuer Neither am I of the same Italians opinion who to make the Germans actiue in warre thinkes they must haue an Italian or some forraigne Prince for their Generall which none in the World can lesse indure since they not onely most willingly heare reade and obey the Preachers Authors and Superiours of their owne Country but aboue all other Nations singular in selfe-loue doe also despise all strangers compared with themselues though otherwise they be not vnhospitall towards them They haue one commendable custome proper to them with the Sweitzers onely namely that after a yeeres or longer warfare they returne home vncorrupted with the dissolute liberty of the warres and settle themselues to their manuall trades and tillage of the ground The Emperour Charles the fifth did leade against the Turkes an Army of ninety thousand foot and thirty thousand horse And the Emperour Maximilian the second did leade against the Turkes an Army of one hundred thousand foote and thirty fiue thousand horse And in the Ciuill warre betweene the Emperour Charles the fifth and the Protestants besides the Emperours Army consisting partly of Germans partly of Italians and Spaniards the Protestant Princes had of their owne Country men an Army of eighty thousand foot and ten thousand horse And in all these Armies there was no complaint of any the least want of victuals So as by these examples it appeares that the Empire can leauie and nourish a most powerfull Army And for better vnderstanding of their warfar I wil ad the decree of the Emperor the Electors in the Expedition against the Turks in the yeere 1500. Albert Palatine of the Rheine was confirmed Generall of the Empire and sixe Counsellors were chosen to assist him And it was further decreed that the Generall should not make warre vpon any without direction from the Councell of the Empire then chosen and consting of sixe spirituall and sixe temporall Princes three Abbots sixe chosen by the people and eight chosen by the free Cities That the souldiers should sweare obedience to the General and he giue like oath to the Emperor and the Empire That the Generall should haue the command of three hundreth Horse with eight Guldens by the moneth allowed for each Horse That the Generall should further haue one thousand three hundreth Guldens by the moneth or more by consent of the Councell That each Horseman should haue eight Guldens by the moneth and each Poorman foure Guldens That the Generall should haue twenty foure for his guard with fiue Guldens by the moneth for each of them That the Generall should haue pay for thirty two carts each cart drawne with foure horses and allowed two Horsemens pay That the Generall happening to bee taken by the fortune of the warre the Empire should readily pay his ransome and redeeme him That no peace should be made without the consent of the Generall Lastly that the Generall should depose this dignitie when hee should be directed so to doe by the Councell within three moneths if he were within the Empire or within sixe moneths if he should then be out of the confines of the Empire To conclude he that shall particularly visit and behold the Armories and storehouses for military prouisions as wel of the Princes as free Cities shall bee
be the priuiledges which the Iewes haue gotten by bribing especially in the Dutchéy of Sauoy through the vnsatiable auarice of our Christian Princes Neere this Market-place is the large Church of Saint Andrew and the Senate-house in which they shew two statuaes of Cupid whereof one is ancient and of much greater value then the other and a very long Vnicornes horne and a paire of Organs of Aliblaster besides Iewels and vessels of gold and siluer Not farrethence is the third Market-place of Iustice. To conclude at the gate of Saint Francis Church is the head of Virgil which the Neapolitans say as in the description of that Citie I formerly said was stolne from the Sepulcher of Virgil vpon the Mount Pausilip In the Pallace called dellaragione is another statua of Virgil sitting at a Table of brasse as if hee were writing and crowned with Laurell I said formerly that there is a passage from the Lakes into the Riuer Po and so by water to Venice and the Duke to take his pleasure vpon the water hath a baot called Bucentoro because it will beare some two hundred and it is built in the vpper part like a banqueting house hauing fiue roomes with glased windowes wherein the Duke and his Traine doe sit and these roomes are supported vpon a boat the Mariners that row the same sitting vnder the said roomes the first and largest roome whereof was fifteene walking paces long with benches on both sides the second was eight paces long the third fiue and the fourth likewise fiue paces long the fifth was a Gallerie ouer the other roomes fortie paces long and open to which they mounted by staires out of the first roome And this boate doth not onely much differ from our Kings barges aswell for the bignesse as the rich furniture but also is flat in the bottome the waters being still and calme on which it passeth These roomes according to occasions haue more or lesse rich hangings when the Duke either goeth out to disport himself or when he takes any iourny therin as oft he doth It is vnlawfull to weare a sword without licence of the Magistrate either at Milan Cremona Mantua or almost in any Citie of Italy onely at Venice and Paduoa and the Cities of that State strangers may weare Swords and onely the wearing of Pistols or short gunnes is forbidden At Mantua I paied three reali each meale and being to depart thence I was forced to take a Bill of the Customers by which they signifie to the Guard at the gate whether the passenger be to goe on horseback on foote or by coach and what tribute he is to pay for which Bill a footeman paies 3. soldi another passenger six Thus the Princes of italy hauing small Territories doe not onely burthen their subiects with taxes but all strangers strictly take account from the exacters therof Being to goe from hence to Paduoa we went out of the gate Saint Ceorge and I hired a horse from Mantua to the Castle Este for eleuen lires The first day wee passed by a Forte of the Venetians most strongly fortified vpon the consines of that State which Fort lies vpon the Riuer Athesis and is called Lignaco and rode some twenty miles through a Plaine tilled after the manner of Lombardy to Monteguiara where I paied fortie soldi that is two lires for my supper The next morning I rode nine miles to the Castle Este whence is the Family of the Dukes of Ferraria long flourishing but now extinct From thence I passed by boate 15 miles to Paduoa and paied 22 soldi for my passage This day when I returned to Paduoa was the 14 of December after the new stile in the yeere 1594 which city the rate of vittles there I haue formerly described CHAP. IIII. Of the Sopulcher of Petrarch at Arqua Of my iourney to Vicenza Verona Brescia and Bergnmo in Italy then passing the Alpes to Chur Zurech Solothurn Geneua and in my returne thence to Berna in Sweitzerland thence to Strasburg in Germany and to Chalon to Paris to Roan and to Diepe in France and finally of my passagety 〈◊〉 Land to London in England WHilest I expected the commoditie of the Spring for my iourney home-wards I went to Venice to receiue money there and retaining a sufficient proportion in my hands I thought to make ouer the rest to Paris by bills of exchange but France hauing been now long wasted with ciuill war I could not finde one Merchant of Venice who had any the least Traffick at Paris Therefore persisting still in my obstinate purpose to returne by France I thought at least to procure the change of this money to Geneua And so only out of my desire to see the Citie of Geneua I resolued againe to passe ouer the Alpes into Sweitzerland though I had formerly seene those Townes Then I bought an Hungarian horse for twentie Crownes of a Dutch Gentleman newly ariued in these parts And while I prepared all things necessary for my iourney and expected a sit season of the yeere it came in my minde to see the Monument not farre distant of the famous Poet Francis Petrarch and being willing to giue my horse rest I went on foot with certaine Dutch Gentlemen thirteene miles to Arqua By the way we did see a most faire Monastery Praia and the Baths of Abano the water wherof doth boile with such heate as it would fetch off the skinne being touched At Arqua is the sepulcher of Fetrarch of red marble spotted and it hath this inscription in Latin To the worthy man F. P. a Laureat Poet his sonne in Law Francis Lus-debro Sauo of Milan for their inward conuersation loue affinitte and his succession left this memory Vnder that followed these verses Frigida Francisci lapis hic tegit ossa Petrarchae Suscipe virgo parens animam sate virgine parce Fessaque iam terris caeli requiescat in Arce This stone doth Francis Petrarches bones inclose Take my soule Virgin spare it Virgins sonne Tired on earth in heauen let it repose Then followed letters raced out MCCC 〈◊〉 XX. XVIIII Then followed the third inscription in Latin with his Image To Francis Petrarch Paulus Valdezucus admiring his Poems and succeeding him in the possession of his house and fields made this Image in the yeere MDXCVII the Ides of September There is also a Fountaine vulgarly called the Fountaine of Petrarch vpon which these verses are written Fonti numen inest hospes venerare liquorem Vnde bihens cecinit digna Petrarcha Deis Some god dwells here worship the sacred Spring Whence Petrarch drinking heauenly Rimes did sing Petrarch dwelt at Arqua and here in the same house wherein they say he dwelt the historie of Petrarches life is painted where the owner of the house shewed vs some household stuffe belonging to him and the very skinne of a Cat he loued which they haue dried and still keepe Here I did see his Studie a pleasant roome especially for the sweet
vnder his pillow and let this Booke be either such as fits his ends or study or such as containeth precepts or sentences which by daily vse he desires to make familiar vnto him alwaies bewaring that it treat not of the Common-wealth the Religion thereof or any Subiect that may be dangerous to him By this companion he shall make the solitude of the Innes and many irkesome things lesse vnpleasing to him 14 As we reade that Alexander the great set on fier with his owne hands the wanes of carriage taken from Darius and that by his example all the Macedonians cast away the spoyles they had taken from the Persians lest they should hinder them in their expedition against India So the Traueller comparing small things with great must carry onely most necessary things with him especially in such places as the Low-Countries where boates and waggons are changed many times in one dayes iourney and where as also in Italy they bring him not to his Inne but onely to the water side or to the gates of the City for in such places heauy carriages will be a great burthen or charge to him 15 Let him enquire after the best Innes especially in Germany and also at night in Italy for he may take a short dinner in any Inne of Italy so hee lodge safely at night In the best Innes with moderate and ordinary expences he shall auoid the frauds and iniuries of knaues and shall sleepe safely both for his person and the goods hee hath with him In all Innes but especially in suspected places let him bolt or locke the doore of his chamber let him take heed of his chamber fellowes and alwayes haue his Sword by his side or by his bed side let him lay his purse vnder his pillow but alwayes foulded with his garters or some thing hee first vseth in the morning lest hee forget to put it vp before hee goe out of his chamber And to the end he may leaue nothing behind him in his Innes let the visiting of his chamber and gathering his things together be the last thing he doth before hee put his foote into the stirrup 16 Some aduise that a Traueller should learne to swimme but I thinke that skill is more for pleasure at home then of vse abroade and yeelds small comfort or helpe in a storme at Sea Let other men haue their free opinion as I haue mine yet I know that Caesar deliuered himselfe and his Commentaries from perishing by his skill in swimming but neither are all as fortunate as Caesar neither are all Seas like that of Africke My selfe haue knowne many excellent swimmers whereof some in the sight of the wished Land haue perished by the rage of the Sea waues and others haue sunke by the waight of their fearefull companions knowing their skill and so taking hold of them while at the same time others hauing not the least skill in swimming but trusting to the hold of broken parts of the shippe or light chests haue escaped that danger and came safely to shore But if any man put his trust in swimming let him conceale his skill least others trusting therein take hold of him and make him perish with them 17 In like manner some perswade a Traueller to vse himselfe first to hardnesse as abstaining from wine fasting eating grosse meates and going iournies on foote But in my opinion they shall better beare these things when necessity forceth who cherish their body while they may Neither doe I commend them who in forraigne parts take iournies on foote especially for any long way Let them stay at home and behold the World in a Mappe who haue not meanes for honest expences for such men while they basely spare cost doe so blemish their estimation as they can enioy no company but that of such poore fellowes as goe on foote with them who can no way instruct them or better their vnderstanding Besides that by wearying their bodies they are apt to fall into sicknesse and basely expose themselues to the dangers of wild beasts theeues and their poore companions I dare bee bold to say that all murthers in Germany by the high way are committed vpon footemen for they who are well brought vp when they are wearied by going on foote will spend more to cherish themselues in their Innes and make longer staies therein by which meanes they not onely spend almost as much as if they had hired horses or coches but also bewray their plenty of mony to their foote companions who being needy it oftens happens euen among the Germans otherwise of honest disposition that they plot mischiefe against them which once intended the vast solitudes of the Woods in Germany offer many opportunities to put their wicked purpose in practice And it is a hard remedy to be prescribed to one of good education that after his weary iourney he should also suffer in his Inne Moreouer the Germans account of strangers according to their outward habit and their bold or deiected countenance and doe altogether dispise passengers on foote To conclude the solitudes of the way by reason of few Townes or Villages make a iourney on foote most tedious in Germany But in Italy if any where this going on foote may bee borne with by reason of the pleasant and fruitfull fields the frequent Cities Townes and Villages the safety from theeues except it be vpon the confines of Princes where hosemen and footemen are in like danger and by reason of the Italians opinion who respect a mans behauiour not his habit Alwaies prouided that these iournies bee short and sweetned with a pleasant companion But for my part I thinke the best going on foote is according to the French Prouerb when a man leades his horse in his hand and may mount him at pleasure And I must confesse that I haue obserued some of our Countrie men to erre in this kinde of whom though few vndertake these foote iournies yet they generally thinke that it is a point of frugalitie to suffer in forraigne parts as if our abode there should be lesse profitable vnto vs except we should like Menedemus vex our selues with vnnecessary sufferings of ill 18 The Traueller must haue great care to preserue his health neither is it the last point of wisedome to follow the aduice of Cicero who bids him bee an old man quickly that desires to bee an old man long But most of all is this care necessarie for a Traueller for those that are sicke by the way suffer many discommodities in all places and our Country men in Italy and Spaine runne high dangers where howsoeuer being in health they may discreetly shunne the snares of the Inquisition yet when they are sicke Confession the Sacrament in one kind and the adoration thereof as changed into the body of Christ and Extreme Vnction at the point of death are thrust vpon them by the Priests Men ready to die can ill dissemble neither is any waight so heauy as that of a wounded
in youth and hunting after they came to ripe yeeres made them of huge stature Many witnesse that the Germans of old in feasting tooke counsell of Peace and Warre thinking the vigor of the mind then to be most inlarged when they were warmed with Wine They were wont to promise their neighbours that they would ouercome in fighting or else die valiantly and so were led forth to the war with the peoples acclamations exhorting them to valour and at their returne were not praised except they shewed scarres gotten in fighting It was infamous for any of them to lose his shield so as many for that cause hanged themselues for it was not lawfull for them to be present at their Sacrifices or Counsels Being ready to fight they called vpon Hercules and their Horsemen vsed Target and Lance their Footemen Darts Their Army lay compassed with Chariots and Carts in stead of trenches Lastly in Counsels they signified consent by shaking of their Speares and dissent by murmuring At this day the Horsemen of Germany are vulgarly called schwartz Reytern that is blacke Horsemen not onely because they weare blacke apparrell but also for that most of them haue blacke Horses and make their hands and faces blacke by dressing them and by blacking their bootes wherein they are curious or else because custome hath made blacknesse an ornament to them or else because they thinke this colour to make them most terrible to their enemies For the Germans vsing more to brawle then fight and rather to chide then fight themselues friends desire rather with fierce lookes to strike feare into their enemies then by concealing their strength to draw them to fight The best Horses and Horsemen are of the Territories of Brunswick Cleaue and Franconia but howsoeuer their Horses are strong yet they haue lesse courage because they are taken from the Plough and are of an heauy race Neither the Horses nor the Horsemen are armed so as both may easily bee hurt by Footemen Thus being Light-horsemen yet are they lesse fit for that seruice by reason of their heauy Horses vnapt to follow the enemy flying or to saue themselues by speedy retrait And this hath often beene obserued in their warre against the Turkes hauing swift Horses whom they could neither ouertake in flight nor escape from them when they pursued Such and so heauy Horses are throughout all Germany excepting Westphalia and those parts where their Waggons are drawne with very little Horses though perhaps they haue greater for seruice in warre These Horsemen carry each of them two short pistols at their saddles with a sword and like short weapons but without any Launces and their saddles are little such as are commonly vsed by passengers not such as our Horsemen vse in warre so as they may easily bee cast from their Horses and haue the disaduantage being assayled with Horsemen bearing Lances Their Footemen are vulgarly called Lantzknechten that is Seruants with Lances and the best of them are those of Tyroll Sueuia and Westphalia Commonly they are corpulent and of a dull or lesse fiery spirit yet are of great strength in fighting a battell by reason of their strong members and the constant order they vse in fighting And they are armed with Lances most fit for their strength rather then with Caliuers requiring nimblenesse in charging and discharging In generall the Germans willingly heare themselues compared to Bulles for as Bulles bearing their hornes on the ground with firme foote attend the assault of the Dogges so the Germans neither rush fiercely on their enemies nor can easily be broken by any charge The Prouinces of Germany being populous and the souldiers being Mercenary forraigne Princes commonly supply their Armies with them And for the faithfulnesse of the Nation and the strength of their bodies the Princes of France and Italy willingly entertaine them for the guard of their persons The Princes of Germany leuie souldiers by absolute command in their owne warres but onely voluntary men are sent to forraigne warres which they willingly vndertake out of all mens generall affection to the dissolute liberty of the warres and because the Germans haue euer been mercenary besides that the pleasant wines of France and Italy draw them to those warres In our age the French hauing had ciuill warres betweene the Papists and Protestants both parts haue often hired the Germans And they being for the most part Lutherans and so hating both parts as well the Papists as the Caluinists so I call them for distinction being so termed by their common enemies though they follow neither Caluin nor Luther further then they agree with the Word of God I say that they hating the Papists and most of all the Caluinists nearest to them in Religion as the Potter hates the Potter and the begger hates the begger and each one his next neighbour more then any other and being blamed for seruing them they would freely professe that it was all one to them to serue the one deuill as the other so they called them both Thus seruing more for booty then for loue they demeaned themselues so frowardly in those warres as they much impaired the old reputation of their Nation in warfare The French I say hauing iustly no confidence in their owne footemen for the most part vsed the Germans as also the Sweitzers in that seruice and found by experience that the firme and constant bodie of their foote was most fit to receiue the loose wings of the French chearefully assaulting but soone driuen backe and that after the first fury of the French the body of the Dutch Foote like the Triarij among the Romans stood firme And the great Victory of the French at Rauenna against the Spaniards and Italians was in great part attributed to the German Footemen who receiued the French Foote and namely the Guascons the best Foote of France into their body when they were put to flight But they are most vnfit to besiege strong Forts and haue been found no lesse vnfit to defend them being besieged whether it be for that they are lesse seruiceable in things requiring witty resolution and fury in sudden assaults then in a firme and constant strength or for that contrary to their old reputation they are not found able in this our age to beare hunger thirst cold and watching the necessary euils of a siege And it is certaine that the Netherlanders vsing them in this kind as the course of their war consists especially in defending and assailing Forts haue taxed them with bitter ieasts on this behalfe which I willingly passe in silence desiring more to expresse vertues then to impute vices Yet the Germans haue many very strong and well fortified Cities of which some are iudged impregnable in which they place greatest hope of safetie from the incursions of the Polonians or of the Turks For the Polonians trusting to their famous strength of Horse brag that they despise the force of the Germans in open field and the Turkish
the Leagues of Burgundy and Milan with the Cantons of the Roman religion to last fiue yeres after his death and this was done in the Church of Milan where the Ambassadours are said to haue hung vp their Shields in memory therof and to haue giuen a thousand gold crownes to the beautifying of the Church at which time the King of Spaine diuided twelue thousand gold crownes betweene the Ambassadours besides the charges passing three thousand crownes But the Ambassadours of Solothurn with-drew themselues from this League because the King of France was indebted to them which debt the King of Spaine refused to pay By this League they are mutually bound to aide each other with one thousand two hundred foote and the King of Spaine promised yeerely Pensions in generall to the Cantons and in particular to diuers chiefe men and Captaines For the Sweitzers vse to make no League without profit since the Neighbour Princes grew of opinion that they could not make warre except their Armies were strengthened with a firme body of Sweitzers Not onely Solothurn renounced the said League but also the Cantons of the reformed religion partly not to do any thing against their League with France partly left they should take part with a King whom they iudged most ambitions and a great enemy to the Reformed Religion howsoeuer he couered that hatred and partly lest they should aduance the House of Austria iustly suspected by them whose victories might turne to their ruine And at the same time the Cantons and Fellowes in League being of the Reformed Religion after the doctrine of Caluine made a League for defence of religion among themselues and with Strasburg a neighbour free city of Germany being of the Reformed Religion after the doctrine of Luther The Duke of Sauoy had his Ambassadour residing at Lucerna where the Popes Ambassadours also reside of whose Leagues for yeeres we formerly spake The old Allobroges now called Sauoyans had old Leagues with the Cantons of Bern Friburg and Solothurn but Charles Duke of Sauoy in the yeere 1512 made a League for twenty fiue yeeres with all the Cantons by which among other things it was couenanted that the Duke should aide the Sweitzers with sixe hundred or more horse at his owne charge so hee were not distracted with warres at home and that the Sweitzers should aide the Duke with sixe thousand foot for any warre in his owne Countrie to whom the Duke should pay each man sixe Frankes by the moneth But hee should not imploy them to fight at sea nor leade them beyond the sea but onely to defend his owne Countrie and the confines thereof And it was couenanted that during this League the Duke should yeerely pay at Bern two hundred gold crownes to each Canton When this League was expired Duke Charles put out of his Dukedome by the French King Francis the first followed the Emperour Charles the fifth and the renewing of this League was intermitted But the King of France restoring Philebert his sonne to the Dukedome this Duke in the yeere 1560 made a new and perpetuall League with sixe Cantons namely Lucerna Suitia Vria Vnderualdia Zug and Solothurne And after the rest of the Cantons vpon like conditions renewed the old league with this Duke onely in this last league no mention is made of mutuall aides couenanted by the former league The French Ambassadour resided at Solothurn who of old vsed to reside at Bazil and the league of the French Kings with the Sweitzers is of farre greater moment then any of the rest The first of the French that made warre with the Sweitzers was Lewis the French Kings sonne after the eleuenth King of that name who leading an Army to assist Pope Eugenius in dissoluing the Councell at Bazill was perswaded by the Emperour Fredericke to assaile the Sweitzers but a small number of them possessing straight passages did so annoy his Army as he soone retired He made peaco with the Sweitzers in the yeere 1450 and hauing tried their strength made league with them for ten yeeres His son Charles the eighth in the yeere 1483 renewed this league and vsed the Sweitzers in his warres with the Duke of Britany and for the Kingdome of Naples Lewis the twelfth after the league for yeers was expired renounced the payment of all publike or priuate pensions wherwith the Sweitzers were so greatly offended as after they refused to renew that league with him and ioined in league with the Pope and the Duke of Milan against him so as by their aide he was in the yeere 1512 cast out of the Dukedome of Milan The French King Francis the first fought with the Sweitzers ioined against him in league with the Emperour Maximilian Pope Leo the tenth and Sfortia Duke of Milan For howsoeuer the Sweitzers suspected the proceeding of their confederates and purposed to returne home yet the Pretorian Sweitzers of the Duke of Milan assailing the French the rest of the Sweitzers though called home yet lest they should seeme to forsake their companions ioined with the Pretorian Sweitzers and so by art and cunning drawne to fight gaue the French a notable ouerthrow at which time the Sweitzers had the greatest Army they euer brought into the field being 31000 foot but the French King Francis the next day fighting again with the Sweitzers ouerthrew them yet so as the retreit as they write was nothing like a flight And so the King casting Sfortia out of the Dukedome of Milan recouered the same After this prosperous successe the French King sought nothing more then to be reconciled and ioined in league with the Sweitzers hee had ouercome which hee did the league consisting of 13 heads 1. They couenanted for taking away all iniuries controuersies 2. For freeing of captiues 3. How the Sweitzers may plead any cause in iudgement against the King 4 That al should enioy the benefit therof being borne within the confines of Sweitzerland speaking the Dutch tongue 5. Priuiledges are confirmed to the Merchants of Sweitzerland 6 For charges in the siege of Dyiune and in Italy the King couenants to pay them a great sum of mony by yeerly portions 7. It is agreed that all controuersies shall be determined by courses there set downe not by warre 8. That neither part shall giue passage to the enemies of the other 9. That Merchants all subiects on both parts shall freely passe not offended with reproches or oppressed with impositions 10. That the King shall yeerly pay to each Canton 2000 Franks and to the Abbot of S. Gallus and his subiects and to those of Toggenburg 600 Frankes and to the City of S. Gallus 400 to the Mulhusians 400 to the Gruerians 600 to the Valisians 2000 and to the Grisons the pensions giuen by Lewis the 12 and moreouer yeerly 2000 Franks but howsoeuer the Rhetians or Grisons by this league serue the King in his warres with the Sweitzers yet Semler witnesseth that they serue seuerally vnder