Henry the first most stately beautified with a rich Monastery and strong Castle where in the Collegiate Church of the Abbey himselfe and Queene who lay both veiled and crowned with their daughter Maud the Empresse called the Lady of England were interred as the priuate History of the place auoucheth though others bestow the bodies of these two Queenes else-where The Castle King Henry the second razed to the ground because it was the refuge for the followers of King Stephen From whence the North-pole is raised in Latitude 51 degrees and 40 minutes and in Longitude from the first West-point obserued by Mercator 19 degrees and 35. minutes 7 A Castle and Towne of greater strength and antiquitie was Wallingford by Antonie and Ptolemie called Galtena the chiefest Citie of the Attribatians whose large circuit and strong fortifications shew plainly that it was a place of the Romans abode and since in a conceiued safetie hath made many very bold especially when the sparkes of Englands ciuill dissentions were forced to flame in case of the Crowne betwixt Maud the Empresse and King Stephen whither her selfe and associates resorted as their surest defence 8 But of farre greater magnificence and state is the Castle of Windsor a most Princely Palace and Mansion of his Maiestie I will not with Ieffrey affirme it to be built by King Arthur but with better authoritie say it was so thirsted after by the Conquerour that by a composition with the Abbat of Westminster whose then it was he made it to be the Kings Possession as a Place besides the pleasures very commodious to entertaine the King In this Castle that victorious Prince King Edward the third was borne and herein after he had subdued the French and Scots held he at one and the same time as his Prisoners Iohn King of France and Dauid King of Scotland Neither was it euer graced with greater Maiestie then by the institution of the most honourable Order of the Garter a signall Ornament of Martiall Prowesse the inuention thereof some ascribe to be from a Garter falling from his Queene or rather from Ioan Countesse of Salisbury a Lady of an incomparable beautie as she danced before him whereat the by-standers smâ—â—ing he gaue the impresse to checke all euill conceits and in golden Letters imbelished the Garter with this French Posie HONI SOIT QVI MALY PENSE And yet that worthy Clarenceaux alledging the booke of the first institution findes the inuention to be more ancient as when King Richard the first warred against the Turkes Saracens Cypres and Acon he girt the legs of certaine choise Knights with a tache of leather which promised a future glory to the wearers The most Princely Chappell thereof is graced with the bodies of those two great Kings Henry the sixt and Edward the fourth whom the whole Kingdome was too little to containo the one of Lancaster the other of Yorke where they rest now vnited in one mould with a branch of both those Houses euen King Henry the eight who there lyeth also interred and rests in the Lord. 9 Other places of note in this Shire are Sinodum in the North and Watham in the East both of them places of the Romans residence as by their monyes these oftentimes found appeareth Neither was Sunning the least in this Tract that had beene the Seat of eight Bishops before the See was translated thence vnto Shirburne or that to Salisbury Wantage also is not wanting of honour in bringing to life that learned and most valiant King Ealfred the scourge of the Danes and great Monarch of the English And Finchhamsted for wonder inferiour to none where as our Writers doe witnesse that in the yeare a thousand one hundred a Well boyled vp with streames of bloud and fifteene dayes together continued that Spring whose waters made red all others where they came to the great amazement of the beholders 10 The riches and sweet seats that this Country affordeth made many deuout persons to shew their deuotions vnto true pietie in erecting places for Gods diuine seruice and their exemptions from all worldly businesse such were Abington Redding Bysham Bromehall Henâ—ey Hamme and Wallingford whose Vâ—tarie abusing the intents of their Founders ouerthrew both their owne Orders and places of professions all which were dissolued by Act of Parliament and giuen the King to dispose at his will MIDDLESEX CHAPTER XIIII MIDDLESEX so called in regard of the situation as seated betwixt the West-Saxons and East-Angles was sometimes together with Essex and Hartford-shire that part and portion which the East Saxons enioyed for their Kingdome it lyeth bordered vpon the North with Hartford shire vpon the West by Colne is seuered from Buckingham the South by Thamesis from Surrey and Kent and on the East from Essex by the Riuer Lea. 2 The length thereof extended from 〈◊〉 in the East to Morehall vpon Colne in the West is by measure nineteene English miles and from South 〈◊〉 in the North to his Majesties Mannour of Hampton-Court in the South are little aboue sixteene miles the whole Circumference extending to ninetie miles 3 In foâ—â—e it is almost square for ayre passing temperate for soile abundantly fertile and for pasturage and graine of all kindes yeelding the best so that the Wheat of this Countie hath serued a long time for the manchâ—t to our Princes Table 4 It lyeth seated in a vale most wholesome and rich hauing some hils also and them of good 〈◊〉 from whose tops the prospect of the whole is seene like vnto Zoar in Egypt or rather like a Paradise and Garden of God 5 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to Caesar were the Trinobants whom he nameth to be the most puissant in the Iland whose chiefe Citie and State yeelding him subiection made the whole with lesse losse to the Romans to beare the yoke of their owne bondage and to come in vnder termes of truce But when their forces in these parts were spent and the Empire shaken by intestine warres the Saxons setting their eyes vpon so faire a soile made their footing as sure herein which lastly with Hartford and Essex was the portion of the East-Saxons Kingdome 6 Fiue Princely Houses inheritable to the English Crowne are seated in this Shire which are Enfield Hanworth White-hall S. Iames and Hampton-Court a Citie rather in shew then the Palace of a Prince and for stately Port and gorgeous building not inferiour to any in Europe At Thistleworth once stood the Palace of Richard King of the Romans Earle of Cornewall which the Londâ—ner in a tumultuous broile burned to the ground many other stately Houses of our English Nobilitie Knights and Gentlemen as also of the worshipfull Citizens of London are in this Shire so sumptuously built and pleasantly seated as the like in the like circuit are no where else to be found Neere vnto Thamesis entrance into this Countie is kept the remembrance of Caesars entrance ouer Thamesis by the name of Coway-Stakes stucke fast in the bottome to
cleere because of the vapours arising from the Sea and Riuer that enuiron the same is both wholesome and temperate as seated neerest to the Equinoâ—ticall and the furthest from the North Pole not touched with cold as the other parts of the Land are 4 The soile towards the East is vneuen rising into little hils the West more leuell and woody in all places fruitfull and in plentie equals any other of the Realme yea and in some things hath the best esteeme as in Broad-clothes Fruits and feedings for Cattell Onely Mines except Iron are wanting all things else deliuered with a prodigall heart and liberall hand 5 Sundry nauigable Riuers are in Kent whereof Medwey that diuideth the shire in the midst iâ— chiefe in whose bosome securely rideth his Majesties Nauy Royall the walls of the Land and terrours of the Seas besides ten others of name and account that open with twenty Creeks and Hauens for Ships arriuage into this Land foure of them bearing the name of Cinque Poâ—tâ— are places of great strength and priuiledges which are Doâ—er Sandwich Rumney and Winchelsey among which Douer with the Castle is accounted by Mathew Paris the Monke the locke and key to the whole Realme of England and by Iohn Rosse and Lidgate is said to be built by Iulius Caesar fatall onely for the death of King Stephen and surrender of King Iohn therein hapning 6 A conceit is that Goodwin Sands were sunke for the sinnes of himselfe and his sonnes Shelues indeed that dangerously lye on the North east of this Countie and are much feared of all Nauigators These formerly had beene firme ground but by a sodaine inundation of the Sea were swallowed vp as at the same time a great part of Flanders and the Low Countries were and the like also at the same time befell in Scotland as Hector Boetius their Historiographer writeth A like accident hapned in the yeare 1586 the fourth day of August in this Countie at Mottingham a Towne eight miles from London sodainly the ground began to sinke and three great Elmes thereon growing were carryed so deepe into the bowels of the earth that no part of 〈◊〉 could any more be seene the hole left in compasse fourescore yards about and a line of fiftie fadomes plummed into it doth finde no bottome 7 The Kentish people in Caesars time were accounted the ciuillest among the Britaines and as yet esteeme themselues the freest Subâ—â—cts of the English not conquered but compounded with by the Normans and herein glory that their King and Commons of all the Saxons were the first Christians conuerted in Anno 596. yea and long before that time also Kent receiued the faith for it is recorded that Lucius the first Christian British King in this Iland built a Church to the name and seruice of Christ within the Castle of Douer endowing it with the Tolle of the same Hauen 8 This Countie is enriched with two Cities and Bishops Sees strengthened with 27. Castles graced with 8. of his Majesties most Princely Houses traded with 24. Market-Townes and beautified with many stately and gorgeous buildings The chiefest Citie thereof the Metropolitan and Arch bishops See is Canterbury built as our British Historians report 900. yeares before the birth of Christ by Henry of Huntington called Caier Kent wherein as M. Lambard saith was erected the first Schoole of professed Arts and Sciences and the same a patterne vnto Sigibert King of the East-Angles for his foundation at Cambridge notwithstanding by the computation of time this Sigibert was slaine by Pâ—nâ—a King of Mercia thirtie yeares before that Theodore the Grecian was Bishop of Canterbury who is said to be the â—â—ector of that Academie But certaine it is that Austâ—â— the Monke had made this Citie famous before that time by the conuersion of these Saxons vnto Christianitie and in building a most magnificent Church to Gods seruice wherein eight of their Kings haue beene interred but all their Monuments since ouer shadowed by the height of Beckets Tombe that for glory wealth and superstitious worships equalized the Pyramides of Aâ—gypt or the Oracle of Delphos yet now with Dagon is fallen before the Arke of God This Citie hath beene honoured with the presence and Coronations of King Iâ—hn and Queene Isabell his wife with the marriages of King Henry the third and of King Edward the first and with the interments of Edward the Blâ—â—ke Pâ—ince King Henry the fourth and of Queene 〈◊〉 his wife as Feuersham is with the burials of King Stephen and of Maud his Queene and wife But as in glory so in aduersitie hath this Citie borne a part being dâ—â—ers times afflâ—cted by the Danes but most especially in the dayes of King Ethâ—red who in that râ—uenge of their massacre made hauock of all and herein slew forty three thousand and two hundred persons the tenth besides reserued to liue Afterward it recouered breath and beautie by thâ— liberalitie of Bâ—shop 〈◊〉 Charters and 〈◊〉 by King Henry the third strength in Trench and Fortifications from king Richard the second and lastly Wals for her defence by Simon Sudbury Arch-bishop of that See whose Graduâ—tion is placed for Latitude 51. 25. and parallelized for Longitude 22 8. her sister Rochester differing not much in either degree 9 Which Citie as Beda saith was built by one Rof Lord of the same though some ascribe the foundation of the Castle Iulius Caesar and hath beene often ruinated by the iniuries of warre both in the times when the Saxons stroue for superioritie among themselues wherein this Citie was layd waste Anno 680. as also in the assaults of their common enemy the Danes who about the yeare 884. from France sailed vp the Riuer Medwey and besieged the same so that had not King Elfred speedily come to the rescue it had beene ouerthrowne by those Pagans And againe in Anno 999. the Danes miserably spoiled this Citie in the time of King Ethelred neither hath it stood safe from danger since though not defaced so much by warre for twice hath it beene sore endammaged by chance of fire the first was in the raigne of King Henry the first Anno 1130. himselfe being present with most of his Nobilitie for the consecration of the Cathedrall Church of S. Andrew And againe almost wholly consumed about the latter end of the Raigne of King Henry the second Anno 1177. Yet after all these calamities it recouered some strength againe by the bountie of King Henry the third both in buildings and in ditching her about for defence 10 Ciuill broyles and diffentions hath this Countie beene burdened with and that not onely vnder the Saxons and Danes whose desolations were many and grieuous but also by other rebellions since the Normans Conquest both in those infamous insurrections called The Barons Warres in the raigne of King Henry the Third wherein much harme was done as also vnder King Richard the second when Wat Tiler Captaine of a dreadfull commotion assembled at Black-heath Mile
betwixt whom are extended thirtie-foure miles The broadest part is from Awfold Southward to Thamisis by Stanes and them asunder twentie two the whole in circumference is one hundred and twelue miles 3 The Heauens breathing ayre in this Shire is most sweet and delectable so that for the same cause many royall Palaces of our Princes are therein seated and the Countrey better stored with game then with graine insomuch that this Countie is by some men compared vnto a home-spunne freeze cloth with a costly faire lift for that the out-verge doth exceed the middle itselfe And yet is it wealthy enough both in Corne and Pasturage especially in Hâ—â—esdale and towards the Riuer of Thamisis 4 In this Shire the Regni an ancient people mentioned by Ptolemie were seated whom he brancheth further thorow Sussex and some part of Hamp-shire And in the wane of the Romans gouernment when the Land was left to the will of Inuaders the South-Saxons vnder Ella here erected their Kingdome which with the first was raised and soonest found end From them no doubt the Courtie was named Suth-rey as seated vpon the South of the Riuer and now by contraction is called Surrey 5 And albeit the Countie is barren of Cities or Townes of great estate yet is she stored with many Princely Houses yea and fiue of his Majesties so magnificently built that of some she may well say no Shire hath none such as is None-such indeed And were not Richmond a fatall place of Englands best Princes it might in esteeme be ranked with the richest for therein died the great Conquerour of France King Edward the Third the beautifull Anne daughter to Charles the Fourth Emperour and intirely beloued wife to King Richard the Second the most wise Prince King Henry the Seuenth and the rarest of her Sexe the Mirrour of Princes Queene Elizabeth the worlds loue and Subiects joy 6 At Merton likewise Kenulph King of the West-Saxons came to his vntimely end and at Lambeth the hardre Canute and last of the Danish Kings died among his Cuppes But as these places were fatall for the last breath of these Princes so other in this Countie haue beene graced with the body and beginning of other worthy Monarkes for in Chertsâ—y Abbey King Henry the Sixth who was deposed and made away in the Tower of London was first interred without all funerall pompe but for his holy life was imputed a Saint and lastly translated and intombed at Windsore At Kingston likewise stood the Chaire of Maiestic wherein Athelstan Edwin and Ethelred sate at their Coronation and first receiued their Seepter of Imperiall Power Guildforâ— likewise hath beene farre greater then now it is when the Place of our English-Saxon Kingâ— was therein set And seeing it is the midst of the Shire the Graduation from hence shall be obserued where for Latitude the Pole is raised from the degree 51. 22. scruples and her Longitude from the West in the degree 20. and 2. scruples 7 Neither can we account Okam and Ripley two small Villages the least in this Shire which haue brought forth the well knowne men William de Okam that deepe Philosopher and admirable Scholar and George de Ripley the rung leader of our Alchymists and mysticall impostors both of them borne in this Countie and very neere together But why speake I of these sith a place neerer to sight and greater for fame euen Lambeth is the High Seat of Ecclesiasticall Gouernment Pietie and Learning and Palace of Canterburies Arch-bishops the Metropolitanâ— of England First erected by Archbishop Daldwin and euer since hath beene the residing of all those worthy Prelates of our Church who in a long succession euen from Anno 596 haue continued to him that now most worthily sits at the Churches sterne Richard by Gods prouidence Lord Archbishop of that See a most faithfull and prudent Counsellor vnto King IAMES and a most learned and prouident Guide of our most flourishing Church whose gracious fauour vndeseruedly conferred vpon me hath beene a great encouragement to these my poore endeuours 8 Memorable places for Battles sought before the Conquest were Wembledon where when the fulnesse of prosperitie burst forth into Ciuill Dissensions among the Saxons a bloudy Battle was fought betwixt Cheauâ—in the West-Saxon and young Ethelbert of Kent wherein he was discomfited and two of his principall Leaders slaine about the yeare of Christ 560. and three hundred thirtie three yeares after King Elfred with a small power ouercame the Danes with a great slaughter at Faruham in this Countie which somewhat quelled the courage of his sauage enemy 9 Religious Houses erected in this Shire by the deuotion of Princes and set apart ffom publike vses to Gods Diuine Seruice and their owne Saluation as then was taught the best in account were Sbene Chertsey Merton Newarke Rygate Wauerley Horsleg and in Southwarke Bermundsey and S. Maries These all flourished with increase till the ripeâ—esse of their fruit was so pleasing in sight and taste vnto King HENRY the Eight that in beating the boughes he brake downe body and all ruinating those houses and seazing their rich possessions into his owne hands So jealous is GOD of his honour and so great vengeance followeth the sinne of Idolatrie HANT-SHIRE CHAPTER VI. HANT-SHIRE lying vpon the West of England Is bordered vpon the North by Barkshire vpon the East with Surrey and Sussex vpon the South with the British Seas and I le of Wight and vpon the West with Dorset and Wilt-shires 2 The length thereof from Blackwater in the North vpon Surrey vnto Bascomb in the South vpon the Sea extended in a right line is fiftie foure English miles and the breadth drawne from Peters-field in the East vnto Tidworth in the West and confines of Wilt-shire is little lesse then thirtie miles the whole Circumference about one hundred fiftie and fiue miles 3 The Aire is temperate though somewhat thicke by reason of the Seas and the many Riuers that thorow the Shire doe fall whose plentie of fish and fruitfull increase doe manifoldly redeeme the harmes which they make 4 The Soile is rich for Corne and Cattle pleasant for pasturage and plenteous for woods in a word in all commodities either for Sea or Land blessed and happy 5 Hauens it hath and those commodious both to let in and to loose out Ships of great burthen in trade of Merchandise or other imployments whereof Portsmouth Tichfield Hamble and South-hampton are chiefe besides many other creeks that open their bosomes into those Seas and the Coast strengthned with many strong Castles such as Hurst Calshot South-hampton S. Andrewes Worth Porchester and the South Castle besides other Bulwarkes or Blockhouses that secure the Country and further in the Land as Malwood Winchester and Odiam so strong that in the time of King Iohn thirteene English-men onely defended the Fort for fifteene dayes against Lewis of France that with a great Host assaulted it most hotly 6 Anciently it was possest vpon the North by the
of Cornwall whereunto resorted great concourse of people for deuotion and adoration thereof But when the Sunne-shine of the Gospell had pierced thorow such clouds of darkenesse it was perceiued apparantly to be onely hony clarified and coloured with Saffron as was openly shewed at Pauls Crosse by the Bishop of Rochester the twentie-fourth of Februarie and yeare of Christ 1538. And Alesbury for the holinesse of S. Edith was much frequented who hauing this Towne allotted for her Dowrie bad the world and her husband faâ—ewell in taking vpon her the veile of deuotion and in that fruitfull age of Saints became greatly renowned euen as farre as to the working of miracles These all in the stormes and rage of the time suffred such shipwracke that from those turmoiled Seas their merchandise light in the right of such Lords as made them their owne for wreacks indeed OXFORD-SHIRE CHAPTER XXI OXFORD-SHIRE receiueth her name from that famous Vniuersitie and most beautifull Citie Oxford and this of the Foord of Oxen say our English-Saxons though Leiland vpon a ground of coniecture will haue it Ousford from the Riuer Ouse by the Latines called Isis which giueth name likewise to the adioyning Iland Ousney The North point of this Shire is bordered vpon by the Counties of Warwicke and Northampton the East with Buckingham the West by Glocester-shire and the South altogether is parted from Bark-shire by Thamisis the Prince of British Riuers 2 The blessings both of the sweet-breathing heauens and the fruitfull site of this Counties soile are so happie and fortunate that hardly can besaid whether exceeds The aire milde temperate and delicate the Land fertile pleasant and bounteous in a word both Heauen and Earth accorded to make the Inhabitants healthfull and happie The hils loaden with woods and Cattle the vallies burthened with Corne and Pasturage by reason of many fresh springing Riuers which sportingly there-thorow make their passage whereof England Charâ—â—ll 〈◊〉 and Isis are chiefe which two last making their Bed of Marriage 〈…〉 together in one channell and name 3 The length of this Shire is from Cleydon in the North-west vnto 〈◊〉 in her South-East neere vnto Thamisis and amounteth almost to fortie miles the broadest part is in her westerne Borders which extending from the said Cleydon in the North vnto Faringâ—â—◠〈…〉 the Riuer Isis in the South are scarcely twentie sixe and thence growing narrower 〈…〉 in Circumference about one hundred and thirtie miles 4 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romans were the Dobuni part whereof possessed further Westernly into Glocester-shire and nearer Eastward betwixt the bowing of Thamises were seated the Ancalites who sent their submission vnto Iulius Caesar when report was made that the Trinobantes had put themselues vnder his protection whereof followed the Britaines seruitude vnder the proud yoke of the all-coueting Romans yet afterwards this Counties people being very puissant as Tacitus termes them and vnshaken by warres withstood Ostorius Scapula the Roman Lieutenant choosing rather to yeeld their liues in battle then their persons to subiection Of latter times it was possessed by the Mercian Saxons as part of their Kingdome though sometimes both the West-Saxons and the Northumbrians had the dispose of some part thereof for Beda affirmeth that K. Oswold gaue the then-flourishing Citie Dâ—rchester vnto Berinus the West-Saxons Apostle to be his Episcopall See whence the good Bishop comming to Oxford and preaching before Wulpherus the Mercian King in whose Court Athelwold the South-Saxons heathenish King was then present he with all his Nobles were conuerted to the faith of Christ and there baptized whereby Berinus became the Apostle also of the South Saxons 5 Otherplaces of memorable note either for actions therein happening or for their owne famous esteeme are the Râ—ll-rich-stones standing neere vnto Enisham in the South of this Shire a monument of huge stones set round in compasse in manner of the Stonchâ—nge of which fabulous tradition hath reported forsooth that they were metamorphised from men but in truth were there erected vpon some great victory obtained either by or against Rollo the Dane who in the yeare 876. entred England and in this Shire fought two Battles one neere vnto Hoch-Norton and a second at the Scier-Stane 6 Rodâ—os likewise remaineth as a monument of Oxfords high-stiled Barle but vnfortunate Prince Robert de Vere who besides the Earledome was created by King Richard the second Marquesse of Dublin and Duke of Ireland but at that Bridge discomfited in fight by the Nobles and forced to swimme the Riuer where began the downefall of his high mounted fortunes forbeing driuen forth of his Country lastly died in exile and distressed estate But more happie is this Countie in producing farre more glorious Princes as King Edward the Confessor who in Islip was borne Edward the victorious blacke Prince in Woodstocke and in Oxford that warlike Coeur de Lion King Richard the first the sonne of King Henry the second first tooke breath 7 Which Citie is and long hath beene the glorious seat of the Muses the British Athens and learnings well-spring from whose buing fountaine the wholesome waters of all good literature streaming plenteously haue made fruitfull all other parts of this Realme and gained glory amongst all Nations abroad Antiquitie auoucheth that this place was consecrated vnto the sacred Sciences in the time of the old Britaines and that from Greeke-lad a Towne in Wilt-shire the Academie was translated vnto Oxford as vnto a Plant-plot both more pleasing and fruitfull whereto accordeth the ancient Burlaus and Necham this latter also alledging Merlin But when the beautie of the Land lay vnder the Saxons prophane feete it sustained a part of those common calamities hauing little reserued to vphold its former glory saue onely the famous monument of S. Frideswids Virgin Conquest no other Schoole then left standing besides her Monasterie yet those great blasts together with other Danish stormes being well blowne ouer King Elfred that learned and religious Monarch recalled the exiled Muses to their sacred place and built there three goodly Colledges for the studies of Diuinitie Philosophie and other Arts of humanitie sending thither his owne sonne Ethelward and drew thither the yong Nobles from all parts of his Kingdome The first reader thereof was his supposed brother Neote a man of great learning by whose direction King Elfred was altogether guided in this his goodly foundation At which time also Asserius Meneuensis a writer of those times affaires read the Grammar and Rhetoricke and affirmeth that long before them Gâ—â—das Melkin Ninius Kentigern S. German and others spent there their liues in learned studies From which time that it continued a Seed plot of learning till the Norman Conquest â—ugulâ—us recordeth who himselfe then liued No maruell then if Matthew Paris calleth Oxford the second Schoole of Christendome and the very chiefe Pillar of the Catholike Church And in the Councell holden at Vienna it was ordained that in Paris Oxford Bononia and Salamanca
This City was first won from the Britaine 's by Cheulin the first King of the West-Saxons about the yeare of Christ 570. and afterwards vnder the Mercians it flourished with great honour where Ofâ—â—k King of Northumberland by the sufferance of Ethelred of Mercia founded a most stately Monastery of Nunnes whereof Kineburgh Eadburgh and Eue Queenes of the Mercians were Prioresses successiuely each after other 7 Edelsted a most renowned Lady sister to King Edward the elder in this Citie built a faire Church wherein her selfe was interred which being ouerthrowne by the Danes was afterwards rebuilt and made the Cathedrall of that See dedicated vnto the honour of S. Peter In this Church the vnfortunate Prince King Edward the second vnder a Monument of Alablaster doth lye who being murdered at Barkley Castle by the crueltie of French Isabel his wife was there intombed And not farre from him another Prince as vnfortunate namely Robert Curthole the eldest sonne of William the Conquerour lyeth in a painted woodden Tombe in the middest of the Quire whose eyes were pluckt out in Cardiffe Castle wherein he was kept prisoner twenty six yeares with all contumelious indignities vntill through extreame anguish he ended his life And before any of these in this Citie say our British Historians the body of Lucius our first Christian King was interred and before his dayes the Britaines Aruiragus The graduation of this County I obserue from this Citie whence the Pole is eleuated in the degree of Latitude 52 and 14. minutes and in Longitude from the West 18. and 5. minutes 8 The other Citie is Pristow faâ—re but not very ancient built vpon the Riuers Auon and Froome for trade of Merchandize a second London and for beautie and account next vnto Yorke This Citie standeth partly in this Countie and partly in Sommerset shire but being a Countie of it selfe will acknowledge subiection to neither 9 A Citie more ancient hath beene Ciâ—cester by Ptolomie called Corinium by Antonine Duroâ—â—â—noâ—ium by Giraldus Passerum Viâ—em The Sparrowes Citie vpon a flying report that Guâ—mund a Tyrant from Africks besieging this Citie tyed fire vnto the wings of Sparrowes who lighting in the Towne vpon light matter set flame vpon all The circuit of whose walâ— extended two miles about wherein the Consular Port or wayes of the Romans met and crossed each other This Citie was wonne from the Britaine 's by Cheulin first King of the West-Saxons afterwards it was possessed by the Mercians and lastly by the Danes vnder Gurmund the former no doubt mistaken for him wherein a rable of them kept the space of a yeare Anno 879. and neuer since inhabited according to the circuit of her walles 10 Places of memorable note are these the Iland Alâ—ey neere vnto Glocester wherein Edmund Iron-side the English and Canutus the Dane after many battles and bloud fought in single Combat hand to hand alone vntill they compounded for the Kingdomes partition Barkley Castle where King Edward the second was thorow his fundament runne into his bowels with a red burning Spit Tewkesbury the fatall period of King Henry the sixt his gouernment and the wound of the Lancastrian Cause for in a Battle there fought in Anno 1471. Prince Edward the onely Sonne of King Henry had his braines dashed out in a most shamefull manner the Queene his mother taken prisoner and most of their fauorites slaine and beheaded And at Alderley a little Towne standing eight miles from the Seuerne vpon the hilles to this day are found Cockles Periwincles and Oysters of solid stone which whether they haue beene Shel-fish and liuing creatures or else the sports of Nature in her workes let the Naturall Philosophers dispute of and judge 11 The places of pietie set apart from other worldly Seruices and dedicated to religious vses by the deuotions of Princes erected in this Shire were Tewkesbury Deorhust Glocester Minching Barkley Kinswood Circester Winchcombe and Hales which last was built with great cost by Richard Earle of Cornwall King of the Romans wherein himselfe and his Dutchesse were interred Their son Earle Edmund brought out of Germany the bloud of Hales supposed and said to be part of that which Christ shed vpon his Crosse In this place with great confluence and deuotions of Pilgrimage it was sought to and worshipped till time proued it a meere counterfeit when the glorious light of the Gospell reuealed to eye-sight such grosse Idolatâ—ies and the skirts of Superstition were turned vp to the shew of her owne shame 12 Dukes and Earles that haue borne the title of Glocester the first of euery Family art by their Armes and Names expressed euer fatall to her Dukes though the greatest in bloud and birth The first was Thomas Woodstocke sonne to King Edward the third who in Caâ—â—is was smoothered in a Feather-bed to death The second was Humfrey brother to King Henry the fift by the fraudulent practise of the malignant Cardinall and Queene made away at S. Edmundsbury And the last was Richard brother to King Edward the fourth who by the iust hand of God was cut off in Battle by King Henry the seauenth HEREFORD-SHIRE CHAPTER XXIIII HEREFORD-SHIRE formerly accounted within the limits of Wales lyeth circulated vpon the North with Worcester and Shrop-shire vpon the East with Maluerne Hils is parted from Glocester-shire vpon the South is kept in with Monmouth-shire and vpon the West in part with the Hatterall Hilles is diuided from Brecknok and the rest confined with Radnorshire 2 This Counties Climate is most healthfull and temperate and Soyle so fertile for Corne and Cattle that no place in England yeeldeth more or better conditioned sweet Riuers running as veynes in the body doe make the Corne bearing grounds in some of her parts rightly to be tearmed the Gilden Vale and for Waters Wooll and Wheate doth contend with Nilus Colchos and Egypt such are Lemster Irchenfeild the bankes of Wye Luge and Frome 3 The ancient people knowne to the Romanes whose power they well felt before they could subdue them were the Silures placed by Ptolemie in this tract and branched further into Radnor Brecknok Monmouth and Glamorgan-shires at this day by vs called South-Wales and by the Welsh Debeubarth Their Originall as Tacitus coniectureth by their site coloured countenances and curled haire was out of Spaine and as both he and Plinie describes them were fierce valiant and impatient of seruitude which well they shewed vnder Caraâ—â—cus their Captaine and nine yeares scourge to the Roman assaulters for whose onely Conquest and that made by treachery the Victor in Rome triumphed with more then a vsuall Aspect and with so equall an hand bare the Scoale of Resistance that their owne Writers euermore terme it a dangerous Warre For the Legion of Marius Valens they put to flight and that with such hauock of the Associates that Osterius the Lieutenant of Britaine for very griefe gaue vp his ghost and Veranius vnder Nero assaulted them in vaine But when Vespasian was
Dane is separated from Darby and Stafford-shires vpon the South toucheth the Counties of Shrop-shire and Flint and vpon the West with Dee is parted from Denbigh shire 2 The forme of this Countie doth much resemble the right wing of an Eagle spreading it selfe from Wirall and as it were with her pinion or first feather toucheth Yorke shire betwixt which extreames in following the windings of the Shires diuder from East to West are 47. miles and from North to South twentie-sixe miles The whole circumference about one hundred fortie two miles 3 If the affection to my naturall producer blind not the judgement of this my suruey for aire and soile it equale the best and farre exceeds her neighbours the next Counties for although the Climate be cold and toucheth the degree of Latitude 54. yet the warmth from the Irish Seas melteth the Snow and dissolueth the Ice sooner there then in those parts that are further off and so wholesome for life that the Inhabitants generally attaine to many yeares 4 The Soile is fat fruitfull and rich yeelding abundantly both profit and pleasures for man The Champion grounds make glad the hearts of their Tillers the Meadowes imbrodered with diuers sweet smelling flowers and the Pasture makes the Kines vdders to strout to the paile from whom and wherein the best Cheese of all Europe is made 5 The ancient Inhabitants were the CORNAVII who with Warwicke-shire Worcester-shire Stafford-shire and Shrop-shire spread themselues further into this Countie as in Ptolemie is placed and the Cangi likewise if they be the Ceangi whose remembrance was found vpon the shore of this Shire on the surface of certaine pieces of Lead in this manner inscribed IMP. DOMIT. AVO. GER DE CEANG. These Cangi were subdued by P. Ostorius Seapula immediately before his great victory against Caractacus where in the mouth of Deua he built a Fortresse at the backe of the Ordouices to restraine their power which was great in those parts in the raigne of Vespasian the Emperour But after the departure of the Romanes this Prouince became a portion of the Saxon Mercians Kingdome notwithstanding saith Ran Higden the Citie it selfe was hold by the Britaine 's vntill all fell into the Monarchy of Egbert Of the dispositions of the since Inhabitants heare Lucian the Monke who liued presently after the Conquest spake They are found saith he to differ from the rest of the English partly better and partly equall In feasting they are friendly at meat chearefull in entertainement liberall soone angry and soone pacified lauish in words impatient of seruitude mercifull to the afflicted compassionate to the poore kinde to their kindred spary of labour void of disimulation not greedie meating and far from dangerous practises And let me adde thus much which Lucian could not namely that this Shire hath neuer beene stained with the blot of rebellion but euer stood true to their King and his Crowne whose loyaltie Richard the second so farre found and esteemed that he held his person most safe among them and by authoritie of Parliament made the Countie to be a Principalitie and stiled himselfe Prince of Chester King Henry the third gaue it to his eldest sonne Prince Edward against whom Lewlyn Prince of Wales gathered a mightie Band and with them did the Conntie much harme euen vnto the Cities gates With the like scarre-fires it had oft times beene affrighted which they lastly defenced with a Wall made of the Welsh-mens heads on the South side of Dee in Hanbridge The Shire may well be said to be a Seed-plot of Gentilitie and the producer of many most ancient and worthy Families neither hath any brought more men of valour into the Field then Chesse-shire hath done who by a generall speech are to this day called The Chiefe of men and for Natures endowments besides their noblenesse of mindes may compare with any other Nation in the world their limmes straight and well-composed their complexions faire with a chearefull countenance and the Women for grace feature and beautie inferiour vnto none 6 The Commodities of this Prouince by the report of Ranulphus the Monke of Chester are chiefly Corne Cattle Fish Fowle Salt Mines Metals Meares and Riuers whereof the bankes of Dee in her West and the Vale Royall in her midst for fruitfulnesse of pasturage equals any other in the Land either in graine from the Cow 7 These with all other prouision for life are traded thorow thirteene Market-Townes in this Shire whereof Chester is the fairest from whom the Shire hath the name A Citie raised from the Fort of Ostorius Lieutenant of Britaine for Claudius the Emperour whither the twentieth Legion named Victrix were sent by Galba to restraine the Britaines but growne themselues out of order Iulius Agricola was appointed their Generall by Vespafian as appeareth by Monies then minted and there found and from them no doubt by the Britaine 's the place was called Caer Legion by Ptolemie Deunana by Antonine Dena and now by vs West-Chester but Henry Bradshawe will haue it built before Brute by the Giant Leon Gaueâ— a man beyond the Moone and called by Marius the vanquisher of the Picts Ouer Deua or Dee a faire stone-bridge leadeth built vpon eight Arches at either end whereof is a Gate from whence in a long Quadren-wise the wals do incompasse the Citie high and strongly built with foure faire Gates opening into the foure windes besides three Posternes and seauen Watch-Towers extending in compasse one thousand nine hundred and fortie paces On the South of this Citie is mounted a strong and stately Castle round in forme and the base Court likewise inclosed with a circular wall In the North is the Minister first built by Earle Leofrike to the honour of S. Werburga the Virgin and after most sumptuously repaired by Hugh the first Earle of Chester of the Normans now the Cathedrall of the Bishops See Therein lyeth interred as report doth relate the body of Henry the fourth Emperour of Almane who leauing his Imperiall Estate lead lastly therein an Hermites life This Citie hath formerly beene sore defaced first by Egfrid King of Northumberland where he slew twelue hundred Christian Monkes resorted thither from Bangor to pray Againe by the Danes it was sore defaced when their destroying feete had trampled downe the beautie of the Land But was againe rebuilt by Edelfleada the Mercian Lady who in this Countie and Forrest of Delamer built two fine Cities nothing of them now remaining besides the Chamber in the Forrest Chester in the dayes of King Edgar was in most flourishing estate wherein he had the homage of eight other Kings who rowed his Barge from S. Iohns to his Pallace himselfe holding the Helme as their supreme This Citie was made a County incorporate of it selfe by King Henry the seauenth and is yearely gouerned by a Mator with Sword and Mace borne before him in State two Sheriffes twentie-foure Aldermen a Recorder a Towne-Clerke and a Sergeant of Peace foure Sergeants and
solitary combred with hilles as Copland is 3 The ayre is piercing and of a sharpe temperature and would be more biting were it not that those high hilles breake off the Northerne stormes and cold falling snowes 4 Notwithstanding rich is this Prouince and with great varieties thereof is replenished the hilles though rough yet smile vpon their beholders spread with sheepe and cattle the vallies stored with grasse and corne sufficient the Sea affordeth great store of fish the land ouer-spread with varietie of fowles and the Riuers feed a kinde of Muskle that bringeth forth Pearle where in the mouth of the Irt as they lie gaping and sucking in dew the Country people gather and sell to the Lapidaries to their owne little and the buyers great gaine But the Mines Royall of Copper whereof this Country yeeldeth much is for vse the richest of all the place is at Keswick and Newland where likewise the Blacke Lead is gotten whose plentie maketh it of no great esteeme otherwise a commoditie that could hardly be missed 5 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romans were the Brigantes whom Ptolemie disperseth into Westmorland Richmond Durham York-shire and Lanca-shire But when the Saxons had ouer borne the Britaines and forced them out of the best to seeke their resting among the vast Mountaines these by them were entred into where they held play with those enemies maugre their force and from them as Mariama doth witnesse the Land was called Cumber of those Kumbri the Britaines But when the State of the Saxons was fore shaken by the Danes this Cumberland was accounted a Kingdome it selfe for so the Flower-gatherer of Westminster recordeth King Edmund saith he with the helpe of Leoline Prince of South-Wales wasted all Cumberland and hauing put out the eyes of the two sonnes of Dunmail King of that Prouince granted that Kingdome vnto Molcolm King of Scots whereof their eldest sonnes became Prefects This Prouince King Stephen to purchase fauour with the Scots what time he stood in most need of ayd confirmed by gift vnder their Crowne which Henry the second notwithstanding made claime vnto and got as Newbrigensis writeth and laid it againe in the Marches of England since when many bickerings betwixt these Nations herein haue hapned but none so sore against the Scotish side as was that at Sallome-Mosse where their Nobilitie disdaining their Generall Oliuer Sinclere gaue ouer the Battle and yeelded themselues to the English which dishonour pierâ—ed so deeply into the heart of King Iames the fift that for griefe thereof he shortly after died 6 Many memorable Antiquities remaine and haue beene found in this County for it being the Confines of the Romans Possessions was continually secured by their Garrisons where remaine aâ— this day parts of that admirable wall built by Seuerâ—s also another Fortification from Wâ—rkinton to Elus Mouth vpon the Sea-shoare toward Ireland by Stilico raised when vnder Theodosius he suppressed the rage of the Picts and Irish and freed the Seas of the Saxons Pirats Vpon Hard-knot hill Moresby Old Carleil Pap-castle along the Wall and in many other places their ruines remaine with altars and Inscriptions of their Captaines and Colonies whereof many haue beene found and more as yet lie hid 7 The chiefest Citie in this Shire is Carlile pleasantly seated betwixt the Riuers Eden Petterell and Caud by the Romans called Luguvallum by Beda Luell by Ptolemy Leucopibia by Nuâ—tuâ— Caer-Luâ—lid and by vs Carlile This Citie flourishing vnder the Romans at their departure by the furious outrages of the Scots and Picts was deiected yet in the dayes of Egfrid King of Northumberland was walled about but againe defaced by the ouer-running Danes lay buried in her owne ashes the space of two hundred yeares vpon whose ruines at length Rufus set his compassionate eye and built there the Castle planting a Colony of Flemings to secure the Coasts from the Scots but vpon better aduisement remoued them into Wales After him Henry his brother and successour ordained this Citie for an Episcopall See whose site is placed in the degree of Longitude from the first West part 17. and 2. scruples and the Pole thence eleuated from the degree of Latitude 55. and 56. scruples 8 West from hence at Burgh vpon the sand was the fatall end of our famous Monarch King Edward the first who there leauing his warres vnfinished against Scotland left his troubles and soone missed life to his vntimely and soone lamented death 9 And at Salkelds vpon the Riuer Eden a Monument of seuentie seuen stones each of them ten foot high aboue ground and one of them at the entrance fifteene as a Trophie of Victory was erected These are by the By-dwellers called Long Megge and her daughters NORTHVMBERLAND CHAPTER XLII THe County of Northumberland hath on the South the Bishopricke of Durham being shut in with the Riuer Derwent and with Tyne the North is confined vpon Scotland the West vpon part of Scotland and part of Cumberland the East-side lyeth altogether vpon the Sea called Mare-Germanicum 2 The forme thereof is Triangle and differs not much in the sidings for from her South-East vnto the South-West-point are neere vnto 40. miles from thence to 〈◊〉 North-point are sixty miles and her base along the Sea-shoare 45. miles The whole in circumâ—â—â—â— is about one hundred fortie fiue miles 3 The Ayre must needs be subtile and piercing for that the Northernly parts are most exposed to extremitie of weathers as great winds hard frosts and long lying of snowes c. Yet would it be farre more sharper then it is were not the Germane Seas a ready meanes to further the dissolution of her Ice and Snow and the plentie of Coales there gotten a great helpe to comfort the body with warmth and defend the bitter coldnesse 4 The Soile cannot be rich hauing neither fertilitie of ground for Corne or Cattle the most part of it being rough and in euery place hard to be manured saue onely towards the Sea and the Riuer Tyne where by the great diligence and industrious paines of good husbandry that part is become very fruitfull 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Country mentioned by Ptolemie were called OTTALINI OTTADENI and OTTADINI which by an easie alteration as M. Cambden saith if it had â—ene called OTTATINI signifying about the Riuer Tyne or on the further side of Tyne 〈…〉 this people were planted there would haue beene much consonance both with the name of the Inhabitants and the Position and Site of the Prouince 6 The chiefest commoditie that enricheth this Countie are those Stones Linthancraces which we call Sea-coales whereof there is such plentie and abundance digged vp as they doe not onely returne a great gaine to the Inhabitants but procure also much pleasure and profit to others 7 No place of this Prouince vents forth so many of these Sea-coales into other regions as Newcastle doth being the very eye of all the Townes in this County for it doth not onely minister reliefe
Imaus in Schithia For all the yeare long these lye mantelled ouer with Snow hard crusted together though otherwise for their height they are open and liable both to the Sunne to dissolue them and the windes to ouer-sweepe them 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ordouices of whom we haue sufficiently spoken in the description of the former Prouinces neither need I insist either vpon the pleasures or profits that this Country yeeldeth by reason of the great affinity it hath both of Climate and Commodities with Denbigh-shire and Flint-shire before mentioned But this beyond the other in some places breeds certaine Shel-fishes which being conceiued by an heauenly dew bring forth Pearles in ancient times 〈…〉 of then now they are 6 Touching places of note that Citie is very ancient which the Emperour Antonine calleth Segontium taking name of a Riuer running by which at this day is called Seront some reliques of the walls whereof doe yet appeare neere vnto a little Church consecrated to the honour of Saint Publicius This Citie Ninius calleth Caer Custenith which some interpret the Citie of Constantine Indeed Mathew Westminster saith how true I know not that Anno 1283. here was found the body of Constantius Father to great Constantine which King Edward the first caused to be sumptuously bestowed in the Church of the new Citie which he raised out of the ruines of the old and is now called Caâ—â—naruon which giueth name to this whole Shire The Towne it selfe yeeldeth a most excellent prospect towards the Sea and is incompassed in a manner round with the wals of the Castle so as we may say it is a Citie within a Castle which taketh vp the whole West-side of it and great pitie it is that so famous a worke should not be perpetuous or euer become the ruine of time which is much feared for the mercilesse vnderminings of the Sea that with her daily and forcible irruptions neuer ceaseth to wash away the foundations of the Key The people of this Towne are well approued for courteâ—ie and also Ciuill gouernment which is administred by the Constable of the Castle who is euer Maior by Patent hauing the assistance of one Alderman two Bailiffes two Sergeants at Mace and one Towne-Clerke The Townesmen doe not a little glory that King Edward the second was borne there in a Tower of the Castle called Eagle-Tower and surnamed of Caer-nar-uon he being the first Prince of Wales of the English line The site of this Towne according to Mathematicall obseruation is in the degree of Longitude 15. and 50. scruples from the first West-point and the Pole eleuated in Latitude 53. and 50. Bangor the Bishops See though it be now but a small Towne yet it was in time past so large that for the greatnesse thereof it was called Banchor Vaur that is Great Banchor which Hugh Earle of Chester fortified with a Castle But it hath beene long since vtterly ruinated and laid leuell with the ground in so much as there is not any footing to be found or other monuments left thereof although they haue beene sought with all diligent enquiry This Bishops See hath within the Dioces ninetie six Parishes But the ancient Church which was consecrated vnto Daniel sometime Bishop thereof was defaced and set on fire by that notorious Rebell Owen Glendowerdwy who had a purpose also to destroy all the Cities of Wales for that they stood for the King of England And though the same Church was since repaired about the time of King Henry the seauenth yet hath it scarce recouered the resemblance of her former dignitie The Riuer Conwey which limitteth this Shire on the East-side is in Ptolemy by corruption or ignorance of Transcribers called Toisonius in stead of Cononius whence Canonium a Towne mentioned by Antonine tooke name and albeit both it and its name be now vtterly extinct yet is there a couert remembrance thereof in the new name of a poore Village standing among the rubbish thereof called Caer-hean that is The ancient Citie Out of the spoyle whereof King Edward the first built a new Towne at the Riuers mouth termed thereupon Aber-Conwey that is the mouth of Conwey which being formerly fortified by Hugh of Chester and strongly situate and fenced both with wals a faire Castle by the Riuers side deserues rather the name of a Citie then a Towne if it were more populous and traffiqued with Inhabitants Neither must I here forget Newin though but a small Market-Towne for that it pleased the English Nobles Anno 1284 to honour it and the memory of King Arthur with triumphant celebritie after they had subdued the rebellious Ring-leaders of Wales 7 Other matters of memorable note this Country affordeth not much vnlesse perhaps this That iust ouer against the Riuer Conwey where it iflueth into the Sea there sometimes stood an ancient Citie named Diganwey which many yeares agoe was consumed by lightning and so made vtterly desolate as many other monuments haue beene of ancient and worthy memory As likewise that in the Poole Lin-Peris there is a kinde of Fish called there Torcoâ—h hauing a red belly no where else seene For touching these two other miracles famoused by Giraldus and Geruasius that on those his high hils there are two Pooles called the Meares the one of which produceth great store of fish but all hauing onely one eye and in the other there is a moueable Iland which as soone as a man treadeth on it forthwith floateth a great way off whereby the Welsh are said to haue often scaped and deluded their enemies assailing them these matters are out of my Creed and yet I thinke the Reader had rather beleeue them then to goe to see whether it be so or no. SCOTLANDS GENERALL DESCRIPTION CHAPTER I. SCOTLAND the second Kingdome of Great Britaine and the North part of the Iland hath on the East the Germane Ocean on the North the Orkneys and Deucalidon Sea the West affronted with Ireland and the South hath the Riuer Tweed the Cheuiot Hils and the adiacent Tract reaching to the Sulway Sands whereby it is separated from England 2 This Kingdome is faire and spacious and from these South-borders spreadeth it selfe wide into the East and West till againe it contracts it selfe narrower vnto the Northerne Promontories furnished with all things befitting a famous Kingdome both for Ayre and Soyle Riuers Woods Mountaines Fish Fowle and Cattle and Corne so plenteous that it supplyeth therewith other Countryes in their want The people thereof are of good feature strong of body and of couragious minde and in warres so venturous that scarce any seruice of note hath beene performed but that they were with the first and last in the field Their Nobilitie and Gentry are very studious of learning and all ciuill knowledge for which end they not onely frequent the three Vniuersities of their owne Kingdome S. Andrewes Glasco and Edenbrough the Nurseries of Pietie and Mansions of the sacred Muses but also much
this Countie where Princes of State haue borne the Titles both of Deuonshire and Excester of which Citie there haue beene entituled Dukes the last of whom namely Henry Holland Grand-childe to Iohn Holland halfe-brother to King Richard the second siding with Lancaster against Edward the fourth whose Sister was his wife was driuen to such misery as Philip Comineus reporteth that he was seene all torne and bare-footed to beg his liuing in the Low Countries and lastly his body was cast vpon the shore of Kent as if he had perished by shipwracke so vncertaine is Fortune in her endowments and the state of man notwithstanding his great birth 9 Religious houses in this Shire built in deuotion and for Idolatry pulled downe were at Excester Torbay Tanton Tauestoke Kirton Ford Hartland Axmister and Berstable CORNWALL CHAPTER X. CORNWALL as Matthew of Westminster affirmeth is so named partly from the forme and partly from her people for shooting it selfe into the Sea like a Horne which the Britaines call Kerne and inhabited by them whom the Saxons named Willia of these two compounded words it became Cornwallia Not to trouble the Reader with the Fable of Corineus cousin to King Brute who in free gift receiued this Countie in reward of his prowesse for wrastling with the Grant Gogmagog and breaking his necke from the Cliffe of Deuer as â—e of Monmouth hath fabuled 2 Touching the temperature of this Countie the ayre thereof is cleansed as with Bellowes by the Billowes that euer worke from oâ—t her enuironing Seas where thorow it becommeth pure and subtill and is made thereby very healthfull but withall so 〈◊〉 and sharâ—e that it is apter to preserue then to recouer health The spring is not so early as in the more Easterne parts yet the Summer with a temperate heat recompenceth his slow fostering of the fruits with their most kindly ripening The Autumne bringeth a somewhat late haruest and the Winter by reason of the Seas warme breath maketh the cold milder then else-where Notwithstanding that Countrey is much subiect to stormy blasts whoâ—e violence hath freedome from the open waues to beat vpon the dwellers at Land leauing many times their houses vncouered 3 The Soile for the most part is lifted vp into many hilles parted a sunder with narrow and short vallies and a shallow earth doth couer their out-side which by a Sea-weede called Orewood and a certaine kinde of fruitfull Sea-sand they make so ranke and batten as is vncredible But more are the riches that out of those hilles are gotten from the Mines of Copper and Tinne which Countrey was the first and continueth the best stored in that Merchandize of any in the world Timaeus the Historian in Plinie reporteth that the Britaine 's fetched their Tinne in wicker-boats stitched about with Leather And Dâ—octoâ—us 〈◊〉 of Augustus Caesars time writeth that the Britaine 's in this part digged Tinne out of 〈◊〉 ground which by Merchants was carried into Gallia and thence to Narborne as it were to a Maâ— Which howsoeuer the Englis-Saxons neglected yet the Normans made great benefit thereof especially Richard brother to King Henry the third who was Earle of Cornwall and by those Tinne 〈◊〉 became exceedingly rich for the inâ—â—â—sions of the Moâ—res hauing stopped vp the Tinne-Mines 〈◊〉 and them in Germany not discouered before the yeare of Christ 1240. these in Cornwall 〈…〉 the want in all parts of the world This Earle made certaine Tinne-Lawes which with liberties and priuiledges were confirmed by Earle Edmund his sonne And in the dayes of King Edâ—â—â— the third the Common-weale of Tinne-workes from one body was diuided into foure and a 〈…〉 of the Stanâ—â—â—rs appointed then Iudge 4 The Borders of this Shire on all parts but the East is bound in with the Sea and had Tamer 〈◊〉 his course but foure miles further to the North betwixt this Countie and Deuonshire it might haue beene rather accounted an Iland then stood with the Mayâ—e Her length is from Launston to the 〈◊〉 containing by measure 60 miles and the broadest part stretching along by the Tamer is fully fortie lâ—sâ—ening thence still lesser like a horne 5 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romans were the Danmonij that spread themselues 〈◊〉 into Deuonshire also by the report of Diodorus Siculus a most courteous and ciuill people and by Mechael their Poet extolled for 〈◊〉 and strength of limâ—â—es nor therein doth he take the libertie that Poets are allowed to adde to the subiect whereof they write but truly reporteth what we see by them performed whom actiuitie surmount many other people When the Heathen Saxons had seated themselues in the best of this Land and forced the Christian Britaines into these rockie parts then did Cornwall abound in Saints vnto whose honor most of the Churches were erected by whose names they are yet knowne and called To speake nothing of Vrsula that Counties Dukes daughter with her company of canonized Virgin-Saints that are now reputed but to trouble the Calendar These Britaine 's in Cornwall so fenced the Countrey and defended themselues that to the raigne of King Athelstant they held out against the Saxons who subduing those Western Parts made Tamar the Bounder betwixt them and his English whose last Earle of the British Bloud was called Candorus 6 But William the Bastard created Robert his halfe-brother by Herlotta their mother the first Earle of the Normans race and Edward the Blacke Prince the ninth from him was by his Father King Edward the third inuested the first Duke of Cornwall which Title euer since hath continued in the Crowne 7 The commodities of this Shire ministred both by Sea and Soile are many and great for besides the abundance of Fish that doe suffice the Inhabitants the Pilchard is taken who in great skuls swarme about the Coast whence being transported to France Spaine and Italie yeeld a yearely reuenew of gaine vnto Cornwall wherein also Copper and Tinne so plentifully grow in the vtmost part of this Promontory that at a low water the veynes thereof lie bare and are seene and what gaine that commoditie begets is vulgarly knowne Neither are these Rockes destitute of Gold nor Siluer yea and Diamonds shaped and pointed Angle-wise and smoothed by Nature her selfe whereof some are as bigge as Walnuts inferiour to the Orient onely in blacknesse and hardnesse Many are the Ports Bayes and Hauens that open into this Shire both safe for arriuage and commodious transport whereof Falmouth is so copious that an hundred Ships may therein ride at Anchor apart by themselues so that from the tops of their highest Masts they shall not see each other and lie most safely vnder the winds 8 This Countie is fruitfull in Corne Cattle Sea-fish and Fowle all which with other prouisions for pleasures and life are traded thorow twentie-two Market-Townes in this Shire whereof Launston and Bodman are the best from which last being the middle of the Shire the Pole is eleuated to the degree of Latitude 50
the other part of the I le This place is called S. Michaelin the Vale where in former times stood a Priory or a Couent of religious persons the ruines whereof are at this day to be seene 8 The gouernment of this I le in nature and forme resembles the other of Iersey of whom shall be said The people in their Originall and Language alike also but in their customes and conditions they come neerer the ciuill fashions of the English Other matters of moment I finde not worthy to be recorded It hath ten Parishes and one Market-Towne being also a Hauen and is called S. Peters Port built close by the Peere and Castle Cornet IERSEY THe two Ilands Iersey and Garnsey being the onely remaines of the Dukedome of Normandie that in former times many yeares together was in the possession and vnder the command of the Kings of England annexing thereunto a large Territory and glorious title to the Crowne are both seated in the Sea called Mare Britannicum the Ocean parting them a good distant asunder and are now both adiuncts and within the circuit of Hampshire For the first being the Isle of Iersey it lyeth vpon the British Sea hauing on the North parts the coasts of Hampshire and on the South the Country of Normandy 2 This Iland is long not much vnlike the fashion of an Egge It containes in length from Sentwon Poole vpon the West to Mount Orguil Castle on the East ten miles and in bredth from Dubon point to Plymount-bay six miles the whole circuit of the Iland being thirtie eight miles It is distant from a little Iland called Alderney about foure leagues It was in old time called Caesaria whether from Iulius Octanius or any the other Caesars that followed is vnknowne But the French-men haue by corruption of speech long time called it Iersey 3 It is a very delightsome and healthfull Iland and giueth a pleasant aspect vnto the Seas It lyeth Southward not farre from a craggie ridge of rocks which is much feared of the Mariners and makes the passage that way very dangerous howbeit it serues for a forcible defence against Pirats or any strangers that attempt inuasion and they are termed Casquets 4 The Soile is very fertile bringing forth store of Corne and Cattle but especially of sheepe that are of reasonable bignesse the most of them bearing foure hornes a peece Their wooll very fine and white of which the Inhabitants make their Iersey stockings which are ordinarily to be had in most parts of England and yeeld a great commoditie vnto the Iland 5 The first originall of the Inhabitants sprung either from the Normans or Britaines or both They speake French though after a corrupt manner and haue continued their names language customes and Country without any or little intermixture these many hundred yeares hauing beene vnder the jurisdiction of the English euer since the vntimely and vnnaturall death of Robert Duke of Normandie eldest sonne to William the Conquerour 6 The people of this Country liue very pleasantly as well by the profits of the Land as the helpes and furtherances of the Sea that yeelds vnto them and especially in Summer season great store of fish but principally Conger and Lobsters the greatest and fattest vpon the coast of England Wood is very scant for their best fuell is Turffe some Coale they haue brought vnto them but it is very deare straw furre and ferne seruing their ordinary vses The middle part of the Iland hath many prety Hils rising in it yeelding a delightfull obiect vnto the vallies that receiue from one another a mutuall pleasure 7 The Gouernour of the I le is the Captaine thereof who appointeth certaine Officers vnder him the principall of whom carrieth the name and title of a Bailiffe that in ciuill causes hath the assistance of twelue Iurats to determine of differences and minister Iustice in criminall matters seuen in matters of reason and conscience fiue Their twelue are chosen out of the twelue Parishes so that no man goeth further to complaine then to his owne Iurate in ordinary Controuersies but matters of moment and difficultie are determined before the Bailiffe in a generall meeting THE DESCRIPTION OF WALES CHAPTER I. ANtiquitie hath auouched that the whole Isle of Britaine was diuided into three parts The first and fairest lay contained within the French Seas the Riuers of Seuerne Dee and Humber called then â—â—oyger which name yet it retaineth in Wâ—â—sh in English called England The second part occupied all the land Northward from Humber to the Orkney Sea called by the Latines Mare Caledonium or Deucaledonium now famously knowne by the name of Scotland The third part was this lying betwixt the Irish Seas the Riuers Seuerne and Dee and was called Cambria which name doth yet continue with them though we the English call it Wales as the people Welshmen which is strange and strangers for so at this day the dwellers of Tyroll in the higher Germany whence our Saxons are said to haue come doe name the Italian their next neighbour a Welshman and his language Welsh 2 This opinion Verstegan doth altogether contradict rather iudging by the ancient Tentonicks tongue which the Germans spake and wherein the G. is pronounced for W. that these Saxons called them Gallish from the Goâ—les whence their originall proceeded rather then Wallish from strangers which he thinketh could not be considering their habitations â—o neere vnto them and that the like was in vse he proueth by the words of French Gardian for Wardian Corangalles for 〈◊〉 yea and Galles for Wales calling our most famous Edward Prince of Galles not Prince of Wales insomuch that the County of Lombardy bordering along vpon the Germans was of them called Gallia Cis-alpina and at this day Welsh-land So likewise doe the Netherlanders call the Inhabitants of Henalâ— and Artois Wallen or Wallons and some parts of Brabanâ— and Flanderâ— Welsh-Brabanâ— and Welsh-Flanders and all because of the language or lineage of the Gaules Neither do the meere Natiues of Wales know any other name of their Country then Cambria of themselues then Cambri or Cumri or of their language then Cambraoc But leauing this opinion free to his affection we will proceed 3 Wales therefore being anciently bounded as before the Saxons did afterwards win by force from the Britaines all the plaine and champion Country ouer the Riuer d ee and especially Offa King of Mercia made their limits straiter by making a ditch of great bredth depth to be a Meere betwixt his Kingdome and Wales This ditch is in many places to be seene at this day and beares the name of Clawâ— Offa that is Offaes Ditch The Country betweene it and England is commonly called the Marches and is for the most part inhabited by Welshmen especially in North-Wales euen to the Riuer Dee This admirable Trench began at Bassingwerke in Flintshire betweene Chester and Ruthlan and ran along the hils to the South Sea a little from Bristow
it gaue vnto the third It was founded by Henry the second finished by Edward the first and long after gaue harbour and entertainment to that noble but vnfortunate Prince Richard the second comming out of Ireland being within her walles a free and absolute King but no sooner without but taken prisoner by Henry Bullingbrooke Duke of Lancaster losing at that time his libertie and not long after his life This standeth in the graduation of Latitude 53. 55. minutes in Longitude 17. For the Castle of Hawarden no record remaines of the first founder but that it was held a long time by the Stewards of the Earles of Chester Howbeit their resistances did not so generally consist in the strength of their Castles and Fortifications as in their Mountaines and Hils which in times of danger serued as naturall Bulwarkes and Defences vnto them against the force of enemies As was that which standeth in a certaine strait set about with woods neere vnto the Riuer Alen called Coles-hull that is Coles-hill where the English by reason of their disordered multitude not ranged close in good array lost the field and were defeated when King Henry the second had made as great preparation as might be to giue battle vnto the Welsh and the very Kings Standard was forsaken by Henry of Essex who was Standard-bearer to the Kings of England in right of inheritance 8 This Country hath many shallow riuers in it but none of fame and note but d ee and Cluyde Howbeit there is a Spring not farre from Rudland Castle of great report and antiquitie which is termed Fons Sacer in English Holy-Well and is also commonly called S. Winefrids Well of whom antiquitie thus reporteth That Winefrid a Christian Virgin very faire and vertuous was doated vpon by a young lustfull Prince or Lord of the Country who not long able to rule his head-strong affections hauing many times in vaine attempted and tryed her chastitie both by rich gifts and large promises could not by any meanes obtaine his desires he therefore in a place of aduantage suddenly surprized and rauished her weake yet resisting body After the deed done the cruell Tyrant to stop her cries and acclamations slew her and cut off her head out of which place did suddenly arise a Spring that continueth to this day carrying from the Fountaine such a forcible streame and current as the like is not found in Christendome Ouer the head of the Spring there is built a Chappell of free stone with Pillars curiously wrought and engraued in the Chancell whereof and glasse window the picture of the Virgin is drawne together with the memoriall of her life and death To this Fountaine Pilgrims are accustomed to repaire in their zealous but blind deuotion and diuers others resort to bathe in holding firmely that the water is of much vertue There be many red stones in the bottome of this Well and much greene mosse growing vpon the sides the superstition of the people holding that those red spots in the stones were drops of the Ladies bloud which all the water in the Spring can neuer wash away and that the mosse about the wall was her haire which though some of it be giuen to euery stranger that comes yet it neuer wasteth But howsoeuer this be carried for truth by the tradition of time the mosse it selfe smels exceeding sweet There is also hard by Kilken a small village within this Countie a little Well of no great note that at certaine times riseth and falleth after the manner of Sea-tydes 9 In the South part of this Country diuided from the rest is a place in some written Coppies of Antonine called Bouium which we now terme Banchor first a Citie and afterwards a Monastery of famous memory and the first that is read of in the world wherein as Beda saith were a great number of Monkes and them diuided into seauen Companies euery one hauing his seuerall Ruler assigned None of these Companies had lesse then three hundred persons deuoted to prayer and to get liuing by their owne labour for themselues and the poore although it hath long since beene vtterly ruinate so as now there is scarce seene the face and outward shew of a dead Citie or Monastery It hath onely the names of two Gates remaining one standing a mile distant from another and betwixt which the Riuer Dee now runneth where are often times found many pieces of Romane Coyne and other tokens of antiquitie But of these shall be more mention made in the following History Another like Monastry but of lesser account stood in the Vale beneath Varis a little Citie placed the Romans in the confines of this Shire and Deabigh-shire and vpon the Ranke of Elwy and Cluyd This the Britaines call 〈◊〉 of the Riuer the Englishmen Asuph of the Founder and the Historiographers Asphensis It is more famouse for antiquitie then for building o◠brauery for about the yeare 560 Kentigein Bishop of Glas◠being fled 〈◊〉 out of Scotland placed here a Bishops See and erected a Monastry gathering together 66◠in a religious brotherhood whereof 300. that were vnlearned gaue themselues to husbandrie and to worke within the Monastery the rest to prayer and meditations When he returned into Scotland he ordained Asaph a godly and vpright man to be gouernous ouer this Monastery of whom it tooke the name and is called Saint Asaphs Another Monastry of great account was at Basingwarke in this County neere vnto which began that admirable Ditch drawne thence vnto the mouth of 〈◊〉 by King Offa the Tract whereof I haue expressed thorow this Shire and will further speake thereof in the following History ANGLESEY CHAPTER XIII ANGLESEY was in the time of the Romans called Mona by the Britaines Mon and Tir-Mon that is the Land of Mon of the ancient English-Saxons Moneg And at last after the Englishmen had by their sharpe and seuerall assaults brought it vnder their rules and became Lords thereof it was termed Anglesey as one would say The Englishmens Iland 2 For an Iland it is albeit it be seuered from the Continent of Britaine but with a small and narrow streight of the riuer Menai and on all other parts beaten vpon with the surging and troublous Irish Sea in which it lyeth somewhat square-wise not much different in length and breadth being where it reacheth out in length from Beau-marish Eastward to the vtmost Promontory West-ward which we call Holy-head twentie miles and in breadth from Llanbaderik North-ward to the point of Menai South-ward seauenteene miles the whole circuit or circumference amounting towards seauentie miles 3 The aire is reasonable gratefull and healthfull and not generally subiect to diseases excepting certaine Agues at some times which are occasioned by the sogs and misty exhalations which arise from the Sea called Mare Virginium with the which this Ile is encompassed 4 The Commodities that commend or rather beautifie this Country are in Corne and Cattle wherewith it not onely enricheth it selfe exceedingly
the Welsh And at this day it is commonly called Diffryn Cluyd that is The Vale of Cluyd This thing is worthy obseruation as a matter memorable both for admiration and antiquitie that in the Parish of Llan-sanan within this Country there is a place compasse cut out of the maine rocke by mans hand in the side of a stony hill wherein there be foure and twentie seats to sit in some lesse some bigger where children and young men comming to seeke their Cattell vse to sit and to haue their sports And at this day they commonly call it Arthurs round Table 7 Henry Lacy Earle of Lincolne obtaining Denbigh by the grant of King Edward the first after the conuiction and beheading of Dauid brother of Llewellin for high Treason was the first that fortified it with a wall about not large in circuit but very strong and on the South-side with a faire Castle strengthned with many high Towers But he gaue it ouer and left the worke vnfinished conceiuing griefe as a sorrowfull father that his onely sonne came to vntimely death and was drowned in the Well thereof The fame of this Towne spreads it selfe farre for repute as being reckoned the most beautifull place in all North-Wales and it is of no lesse report for the Castle adiunct vnto it is impregnable for fortification And this strange accident happning there in the yeare 1575 deserues not to be omitted being left as a continuall remembrance of Gods mercifull prouidence and preseruation at that time that whereby reason of great Earth-quakes many people were put into great feare and had much harme done vnto them both within and without their hoâ—ses in the Cities of Yorke Worcester Glocester Bristow Hertford and in other Countries adiacent yet in the Shire-hall of Denbigh the bell was caused to toll twice by the shaking of the earth and no hurt or hindrance at all either done or receiued The gouernment of this Towne is managed by two Aldermen and two Bailiffes who are yearely elected out of twentie fiue burgestes that are their assistants It hath one Recorder one Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants at Mace and by obseruation of the Mathematickes the Pole is eleuated in the degree of Latitude 53. and 49. scruples and from the first point in Longitude 16. and 45. 8 This County with them of Flint and Carâ—arâ—on-shires are not diuided by prickes into their seuerall Hundreds according to the rest of this worke the want of their particulars in the Parlament Rowles so causing it which for the good of these three Shires I earnestly sought to haue supplied from the Nomina Villarum in their Sheriffes bookes and had promise of them that might easily haue procured the same But whether a fearelesse jealousie possessed their spirits left the riches of these Shires by reuealing such particulars should be further sought into I cannot say yet this I haue obserued in all my Suruey that where least is to be had the greatest feares are possessed Take these Shires therefore to be done as I could and not as I would that wish both the wealth of them all and their esteeme to be of better regard by those that may doe them good 9 This Shire then is diuided into twelue Hundreds for the readier ordering of businesses necessary to the State of the Country wherein are placed three Market-Townes fit for buying and selling and other negotiations It hath fiue Castles to defend her selfe and to offend her enemies and fiftie seauen Parishes for Gods diuine seruice and worship FLINT-SHIRE CHAPTER XII FLINT-SHIRE stretching out in length broad at one end and narrow at another is not much vnlike in fashion to a wedge a peece of which is cut off by the meeting of Cheshire and Denbigh-shire South-East in distance some foure miles It borders East-ward with part of Cheshire from whence it is guarded in length with the Riuer Dee vnto the North which parteth Worrall and Flint-shire till you come to a little Iland called Helâ—bree Northward it is bounded with the Virgiuian Sea on the West a little Riuer called Cluyd parteth her and Denbigh-shire asunder and on the South altogether by Shrop-shire 2 This Country is nothing mountainous as other parts of Wales are but rising gently all along the Riuer of Dee makes a faire shew and prospect of her selfe to euery eye that beholds her as well vpon the Riuer being in most places thereabouts foure or fiue miles broad as vpon the other side thereof being a part of Cheshire 3 The Aire is healthfull and temperate without any foggie clouds or fennie vapours sauing that sometimes there ariseth from the Sea and the Riuer Dee certaine thicke and smoky-seeming mists which neuerthelesse are not found hurtfull to the Inhabitants who in this part liue long and healthfully 4 The Clime is somewhat colder there then in Cheshire by reason of the Sea and the Riuer that engirts the better part of her by which the Northerne windes being long carried vpon the waters blow the more cold and that side of the Country vpward that lieth shoaring vnto the top hauing neither shelter nor defence receiueth them in their full power and is naturally a Bulwarke from their violence vnto her bordering neighbours that maketh the snow to lie much longer there then on the other side of the Riuer 5 The Soile bringeth forth plentie both of Corne and Grasse as also great store of Cattle but they be little To supply which defect they haue more by much in their numbers then in other places where they be bigger Great store of Fish they take in the Riuer of Dee but little from the Sea by reason they haue no Hauens or Creekes for boats No great store of woods either there or in any other part of Wales are found it hauing beene a generall plague vnto all the Country euer since the head-strong rebellions of their Princes and great men against the Kings of England that in time tooke away the principall helpes of their Innouations by cutting downe their woods whereof in this Shire there hath heretofore beene great plentie Fruits are scarce but milke butter and cheese plentie as also store of hony of the which they make a pleasant wine in colour like in taste not much vnlike vnto Muskadine which they call Mathegliâ— Yea and in the dayes of Giraldus Cambrensis neere the place now called Holy-well was a rich Mine of Siluer in seeking after which men pierced and pried into the very bowels of the earth 6 The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ordouices a sturdie people against the Romans but now most kinde and gentle towards the English and indeede make much of all strangers except they be crossed and then they are the contrary 7 Places of defence are the Castles of Flint Hawarden vulgarly Harden Treer Rudland Mold Yowley and Hope of which Flint and Harden are the two principall The Castle of Flint famous for the benefit it receiued from two Kings and for the refuge and reliefe