greatest Princes in Italy the Duke of Sauoy and Prince of Piedmont who is also treated with the title of Altezza Reale and Vicario Generale del Imperio in Italia This house of Sauoy which now gouerns here came anciently from Siguardo King of Saxony in the yeare of Christ 636 and hath conserued it self euer since that is for a thousand and odd years in a continual series of heroical Princes whose Pedegree was neuer vitiated nor interrupted by any degenerate offspring Fiue Emperors and four Kings haue yssued out of this house Anciently the Dukes of Sauoy kept their Court at Chambery or els at Bourg en Bresse a country now belonging to France vpon exchang with the Marquisat of Saluzzo as many of their tombes curiously cut in marble in the Augustins Church there yet shew It was Amadeo the Vof that name Duke of Sauoy that transferred the Court to Turin It was also this Amadeo who in memory of his Granfather Amadeo the IV who had defended Rhodes so brauely instituted the kinghthood of the Annunciata with this single motto in the collar of the order F. E. R. T. signifying that Fortitudo Eius Rhodum Tenuit The subiects of this Prince are sayd to be about eighteen hundred thousand souls His whole country with Piedmont and all is iudged to be two hundred miles long and fifty broad His forces thirty three thousand foot and fiue thousand horse and his Reuenews to be about a million of crownes besides what he can now and then rayse out of that fat country of Piedmont His Jnterest is to keep well with France and not fall out with Spayne As for the towne it self of Turin it s almost squar and hath four gates in it a strong Cittadel with fiue bastions to it it s well furnished with good prouisions in the market it stands in a fat soyle which makes it a little too durty in winter and it is an vniuersity The cheif things which I saw here were these 1. The Domo or Great Church in which is kept with great deuotion the Holy Syndon in which our Sauiours body was wound vp and buryed of the Verity of this Relick see Baronius in his Ecclesiastical History ad an 34 num 138. It s keept in a Chappel ouer the High Altar and showne publickly vpon certain dayes and priuatly To Embassadours and Prelats as they passe that way The late Duchesse Madame Christina began to make a fine Chappel for to keep it in but is was not quite finished when I passed that way last The Chappel is all of black marble adorned with stately black marble pillars indeed winding sheets such as this Relick is are things of mourning and are best set out in a mourning way 2. The Cittadelle standing at the back of the towne and keeping it in awe This Duke and his mother found the conuenience of this Cittadelle when by factions within the towne against them they were forceed to this Cittadelle and there weather it out stoutly till succour comeing to them from France made them masters againe of the towne and their enemyes 3. The Dukes new Pallace hansomely buâ—lt with a fair Court before it a great Piazza and a large open street leading vp to it The Chambers are faire and hung with hangings of cloth of Tyssue of a new and rich fabrik with rich embrodered beds chairs stools cloth of State and Canopies The Dutchesses Cabinet the curious bathing place aboue hund round with the true pictures in litle of the prime Ladyes of Europe The curious inuention for the Dutchesse to conuey her selfe vp from her bedchamber to that bathing roome by a pully and a swing with great ease and saifty the great Hall painted curiously the Noble staircase the old long Gallery 100 paces long with the Pictures in it of the Princes and Princesses of the house of Sauoy with the Statues of the ancient Emperours and Philosophers in marble with a rare Library locked vp in great cubbords are the cheif rooms and ornaments of this Pallace I saw also the Appartiments or lodgeings of the old Dutchesse Madame Christina which ioyne to the old Gallery and in her Cabinet I saw many choyce pictures 4. The new street which runeth from the Pallace to the Piazza Reale is a fair street and built vniformly The shops below afford great conueniency to the townes men and the fair lodgings aboue to the noblemen and Courtiers 5. The Piazza Reale is built hansomly vpon Pillars like our Couent Garden and is full of nothing els but noblemens houses 6. The Augustins Church called S. Carlo standing in this piazza adornes it much being a neat Church and the best contriued that I saw in this towne 7. The Capucins Church vpon a hill out of the towne is aboue the rate of Capucins but you must know who gaue it not who haue it From hence I had a perfect view of Turin with the country about it 8. Some three miles out of the towne I saw a neat house of the Dukes called La Venerie Royale The Court set round with staggâ— heads the chambers full of good Pictures the Hall painted with great Pictures of the Duke his mother his sisters and other Ladyes all on horseback as if they were going a hunting the place where they keep pheasants partridges and other such like birds the stable for 100 horse and the neat dogkennel are the best things to be seen in this house 9 On the other side of the towne about a mile of I saw the old Dutchesses house called La Valentine It stands pleasantly vpon the banks of Po and is adorned with great variety of pictures In fiue or six roomes on the right hand of the house they shewed me a world of pictures of all sorts of Flowers on the left hand as many of all sorts of birds with other pictures curiously painted The four pictures representing the four Elements with all that belongs to them as all the birds that fly in the air all the beasts that are found vpon the Earth all the fishes and shells that are found in the water and all things that belong to fire are so curiously painted in their seueral particular shaps colours that these four peeces are and abridgment of all nature and the admiration of all that behold them There are some other good peeces here too as the Magdalen fallen into an extasie the rapt of the Sabins and diuers others The others houses about the towne as Millefleur belonging to the Duke the Villa of the Princesse Marie with diuers others which shew themselues vpon the Hill side are very stately and worth seeing Hauing thus seen Turin we left the ordinary road which leads to Milan to wit by the way of Vercelle and Nouara two strong townes frontier to one another through which I passed in another voyage and to auoyd two armyes which lay in the way
signifie that it belongs to the Canton of Berne and is Protestant and yet they liue ciuilly and neighbourly together without quarreling about Religion Passing thus a long I came to Soleur Soloturrum in Latin a neat towne and Head of a Canton They are all Catholicks here and here it is that the French Embassadours to the Swissers alwayes reside as the Spanish Embassadors do at Lucerna This towne is very ancient as the golden Letters vpon the clock testifye for those words make Soleur to be onely yonger then her Sister Treuers which as Aeneas Syluius writes was built 1300 yeares before Rome As for Soleur I find in good Cronologers that it was built 2030 years after the creation of the world From Soleur I went to Murat a little towne famous for a great battle fought hard by it by the Duke of Burgondy and the Swissers For the the Duke of Burgondy beseiging Murat the Swissers came vpon him with a great army and defeated him I was told here that the Duke seeing his army defeated and himself enuironed on one side by the Lake here and on the other side by the enemyes conquering army chose rather to trust himself to the Lake then to his ennemyes Wherevpon spurring his horse into the Lake one of his Dages to saue himself also leaped vp behind him as he tooke water The Duke out of feare either perceiued him not at first or dissembled it till he came to the other side of the Lake which is two miles broad The stout horse tugged through with them both and saued them both from drowning but not both from death For the Duke seing in what danger his page had put him stabbed the Page with his dagger Poore Prince thou mighst haue giuen an other offering of thanks giueing to God for thy escape then this nay thou mighst haue been as ciuil as thy horse and haue spaired him whom beasts and waues had saued At least by that means thou mighst haue saueed thy owne honour by saueing that poore page who offended rather out of feare of death then out of malice and thereby thou mighst haue truly sayd that thou hadst not lost all thy men in that battle But passion is a blind thing Nothing is so dangerous to man as man and as I obserued aboue we are neuer in greater danger then when we think we are past danger Thebones of the Burgundians slain in this battle are seen in a great Chappel which stands a little distant from the towne and vpon the road with an inscription vpon it touching the time and circumstances of this defeat From Murat I made towards Zuric a head towne also of a Canton It stands most sweetly vpon a Lake whose crystalin waters would delight any body else but Swissers They are all here Swinglians and when Mareshal D'Estrée the French Embassadour to Rome passed that way and lodged at the great Jnn of the Sword as he was combing his head one morning in his combing cloth with his chamber window open some of the townes men who saw him from an other opposit window putting on that combeing cloth and thinking it had been a Priest putting on the Amice and vesting himself for to say Masse before the Embassadour in his chamber began with a Dutch clamour to stirre vp the people to a mutiny about the Embassadours house and to call for the Priest that was saying of Masse The Embassadour at first not vnderstanding the cause of this vproare about his house rann downe with sword in hand and in his combeing cloth to check the first man that should darre to enter his lodgings but vnderstanding at last that his combing cloth had caused this iealousy hee laughed at their folly and retired away contented The best things to be seen in Zuric are these 1. The neat Arsenal furnished with store of fair Cannons and armes of all sortes 2. The great Library but in this much lesse esteemed by mee because a woman had the Key of it and let vs in to see it This peice of false Latin at the entrance disgusted me with all that I saw there and made me hasten out quickly Good Libraries should not fall en quenoüille 3. The Wheeles which draw vp water from the Lake of themselues and empty it into seueral Pipes so conueigh it all ouer the towne 4. The publick great drinking hall where there are a world of little tables for men of seueral corporations or trayds to meet at and either talk there of their business or make drinking their business Ouer euery table hangs the signe of each trad as a Last for shoomakers a saddle for sadlers a sword for cutlers c. There is a great Bell that rings to this meeting place euery day at two a clock and when I heard so solemne a ringing I thought it had been to some Church deuotion not to a drinking assembly From Zuric I went by water that is vpon the lake a whole dayes iourney and passed vnder a bridge of wood which crosseth quite ouer the lake for two miles It s entertained at the cost of the King of Spayne to passe the soldiers which he often rayseth in the adiacent countryes From hence I went to Coire or Cear the head towne of the Grisons The Bishop and the Clergy of the great Church with some few others liuing within the precincts of the Cloister of the great Church are Catholicks and performe their deuotions in the Church without controll the rest of the inhabitants are Swinglians and possesse the towne yet they suffer the Bishop and his Clergy to liue quietly in the midst of them They shewed me here in this Church diuers fine Relicks especially the Head enchased in syluer of our ancient Brittan King Lucius the first Christian king that euer made profession of Christian Religion and the first who helpt to plant it here The ancient Church office here relates all this as their Church bookes shewed me From the Grisons I went to the Country of the Valtaline a country subiect to the Grisons and keeping its fidelity to them euen when it would not haue wanted assistance from Spayne and Italy if it would haue been false to its Superiors the Grisons vnder the colour of Religion those of the Valtaline being all Catholicks and their souuerains the Grisons Caluinists In a little towne of the Grisons called Herberga I was shewed a cheese and giuen to taste of it too by myne hoste the Maior of the towne a Caluinist in Religion and a Venerable old man who assured me seriously that that cheese was a hundred years old a Venerable Cheese indeed and well nigh as old as his Religion Between these two countryes of the Grisons and the Valtaline stands the great Hill Berlino ouer which I passed and fell from thence upon Posciauo a little bourg and so to our Ladyes of Tirano a neat Church with a fair Inn hard by it Others to auoyd the
countryes with other rich stones all aboue marble and all so neatly polished and shining that the Art here exceeds the materials This Chappel is round and round about are to by fixed within the walls as high as a man can reach the Tombes of all the Great Dukes of Florence in a most gallant manner and of most exquisit polished stones with a great cushen of some richer stone and a Ducal crowne of pretious stones reposeing vpon that cushen Ouer these Tombes the Statues of all the Great â—ukes at full length and in their Ducal habits all of brasse guilt are to be placed in Niches round about the Chappel The roof is to Vaulted all ouer with an ouercrusting of Lapis Lazuli a blew pretious stone with vaines of gold in it which will make it looke like heauen it self Between each tombe are inlayd in the walls the armes or Scutchions of the seueral townes of the Great Dukes dominions all blazoned according to their seueral colours in herauldry by seueral pretious stones which compose them and these are not made in little but are fair great Scutchions made purposely of a larg sise for to fill vp the voyd places between the Tombes The townes are these Florence Siena Pisa Liuorno Volterra Arezzo Pistoia Cortona Monte Pulciano c. which contributed I suppose something each of them to this costly Fabrick in fine this Chappel is so rich within with its owne shining bare walls that it scorns all hangings painting guilding mosaick work and such like helpers off of bare walls because it can find nothing richer and hansomer then its owne pretious walls It s now aboue threescore years since it was begun and there are ordinarily threescore men at work dayly here and yet ther 's onely the Tombe of Ferdinand the Second perfectly finished The very Cushen which lyeth vpon his Tombe cost threescore thousand crownes by which you may gesse at the rest indeed these stately Tombes make almost death it self looke louely and dead mens ashes grow proud againe As for the Altar and Tabernacle of this Chappel I will speak of them by and by when I describe the Gallery of the Great Duke where they are kept till the Chappel be finished 2. The Church of S. Laurence which belongs to this Chappel or rather to which this chappel belongs is a very hansom church designed by Brunellischi himself The things that grace this church are the neat double row of round pillars which hold vp the roof of this Fabrick The picture ouer the Quire painted in the roof representing the genaral judgement It s a bold peece and of Pontorno The two Brazen pulpits wrought into hystorys by rare Donatello The curious designed picture of S. Anne and our Blessed Lady in chiaro e oscuro by Fra Bartolomeo commonly called Del Frate is so wel a designed peece that a Duke of Mantua haueing seen it offered to buy it at any rate but was refused The new Sacristy made to serue the fine Chappel described aboue deserues to be carefully visited because of the bodyes of the Princes of the Family of Medices which are depositated here till the Chappel mentioned aboue be finished In this new Sacristy also are seen the four statues made by Michael Angelo representing The Day the Night Aurora and the Euening the four parts which compose Time by which all men are brought to their Graues That which represents Night is a rare statue and hugely cryed vp by all Sculptors and Virtuosi See also in the Wall of the old Sacristy the neat Tombe of Iohn and Peter Medices sonns of Cosmus surnamed Pater Patriae It s the worke of Andrea Varochio In the midst of this Church before the High Altar lyes buryed Cosmus Pater Patriae the Rayser of the Medicean family In the Cloister ioyning to this Church is erected the Statue of Paulus Iouius the Historian and neare to this statue you mount vp a pair of stairs to the rare Library of Manuscripts called Bibliotheca Laurentiana the Catalogue of whose bookes is printed at Amsterdame an 1622 in octauo 3. The Gallery of the old Pallace This is that Gallery so famous and so frequently Visited by all Strangers At your entrance into this Gallery you see a Vast long roome made like an L on the left hand of this Gallery there runns a perpetual glasse window on the other side are set a row of pictures in great of those of the Medicean Family vnder the windowes and also vnder the sayd Pictures stand a row of curious Marble statues ancient ones all and of prime hands Ouer the sayd windowes and Pictures runns a close row of lesse Pictures representing to the life the most famous men of later times for learning and Armes the soldiers being on the right hand and the schollers on the left The statues aforesayd are well nigh a hundred in all but all rare ones Some whereof I yet remember and they are these That of Leda of Diana of Bacchus of Hercules of the Gladiator standing on his gard of Scipio Africanus in brasse shewing the ancient habit and dresse of the old Romans farre different from our modes that of a little yong youth in brasse with his sword in his hand that of a little boy sleeping vpon a touchstone The head of Cicero in marble that of Seneca the Head of Michael Angelo Bonarota in brasse of his owne hand makeing in fine the head of Brutus one of Caesars murderers It was begun in marble by Michael Angelo but informedly and so left by him If you will know the reason why he finished it not read the distick written in brasse vnder this head by the sayd sculptor himself thus M. Dum Bruti effigiem Sculptor A. de marmore ducit B. In mentem sceleris Venit F. abstinuit The four corner letters signifying that Michael Angelus Bonarota Fecit Among the pictures I tooke particular notice of these Souldiers of Hannibal that frighted Rome of Scipio that tooke Carthage and vanquished Hannibal of Pyrrhus that made the Romans glad to make peace with him of Scanderbeg that made the Great Turk afrayd to fight with him of Venerius that helpt to winn the battle of Lepento of Alexander Farnese that neuer lost battle of Cortesius that found out new countryes of Magellanus that found out new Seas of Andrea D'Oria who beat the French by Sea of Gaston de Foix who had beat the Spaniards by land if he had but knowne how to vse his Victory of the Duke of Alua who onely lamented deying that he had neuer fought a pitchd battle with the Turks of Anne de Montmorency who dyeing was glad to dye in a pitchd batle against the Hugonots of Eccelino the Paduan Tyrant of whom no man can Speak any good of Castrucio of whom no man can speake any ill with a world of other braue Heros with whose true lookes I was very glad to be acquainted Among the pictures of the learned men
I tooke particular notice of these Italians to wit Petrarck Ariosto Ioannes Casa Poggio Macchiauel Guiciardin Paulo Iouio Sannazario Bocaccio Platina Brunelleschi Michael Angelo Raphael Vrbin Columbus Americus and Galileo with many others too long to relate and too many to be rememberd Hauing thus gazed our fill at these statues and pictures and by particular taking notice of-them complimented the great Worthyes they represent we where let into the great Cabinets or Chambers which joyne vpon this Gallery First we saw the Armory that is three or four great chambers full of exotick curiosityes as the habits of two Indian Kings made of Parrats Feathers sowed together the habits of some Ianissaryes in Turky of read veluet set thick with little nayles of gold which they can take out and dresse vp other sutes with the habit of the King of China the skin of a horse pasted vpon a woodden horse the mane of which horse is kept there in a box all at length and it is aboue fiue elles long This horse had been sent to the Great Duke by the Duke of Lorraine Then we were showne Hannibals Helmet the Helmet of Charles the V the sword of Henry the IV of France a curious Helmet thin and light and yet of musket proof a huge heauy Helmet and sword of one of the old Paladins of France the true sword of Scanderbeg a world of Cimetars scabards capps saddles and other Turkish furniture set thick with Turquoises in gold a great gunn whose thick barrel is of pure gold and yet as long as an ordinary fowling peece and as heauy as a strong man can well leuel with it s valued at 1500 pistols and shoots twice as farre as another gunn of iron doth but kills I beleeue with the same payne that others do though with a little more honour Here is a great pistol of gold Then the buona notte or set of pistols fiue pistol barrels set together in an iron Frame to put into your hat and to be all shot off at once from thence as you seem to salute your enemy and bid him Good night The pistol with eighteen barrels in it all to be shot off at once and scattering desperatly about a Roome six little cannons set in starre wise The little Brasse Cannon which may be taken in peeces presently and set together as soone and so be carryed easily into any steeple or tower such Cannons as these might easily be carryed in deep countryes and ouer high mountains euery Soldier carrying a peece The statue in brasse of the King of Spayne Philip the fourth on horseback iust of the bigness of that of gold which the Great Duke sent to the sayd King of Spayne for a present It was made by rare Iohn di Bologna Then I saw the armour for horse and man of two Kings of Persia The armour of the Great Duke Ferdinand a goodly man The King of Swedes Cornet taken in Germany in a battle The buckler with the Medusas head on it painted by Michael Angelo A Turkish Bell to ring in time of battle A horne vsed in Turkey to call men to their Moskyes instead of bells as we haue The head of a halbard ringing like a bell A halbard to fould vp in three and to carry vnder your cloake priuatly A staff of a white cane in which are curiously engrauen in black the hystoryes of the Apocalipse It was the Duke of Vrbins In fine the loadstone holding vp threescore pound weight of iron and holding one key to an other for a matter of fiue or six keyes After the armory we were let into the fiue Cabinets full of pretious iewels pictures and other rare curiosityes In the first Cabinet I was showne a curious Clandlestick to hang vp in the middle of a roome with seueral branches spreading from it and all of yellow Amber including within it a world of little figures of white marble or waxe neatly cut in little and appearing through the transparent yellow amber This Candlestick was giuen by the Duchesse of Lunebourg to the Duke of Saxony and by him to Prince Mathias brother to this Great Duke of Florence In the same Cabinet I saw a Table of polished stones of seueral colours and lustre inlayd into birds and flowers The head of Tiberius Caesar in one Turky stone as big as a Ducks egg and of an inestimable value A curious cabinet or two of yuory cupps brought out of Germany by Prince Matthias In the same Cabinet I saw the picture of Cardinal Bembo in a neat Mosaick work and an other peece of diuers birds in mosaick also rarely done by Marcellus Prouincialis I saw also there diuers little old Pagan Idols in iron and brasse A designe of Raphaels owne hand and some good pictures In the 2 Cabinet I saw two great Globes which were made in this roome being too great euer to be carryed out or brought into it by the doore I saw also here a curious table of polished stones representing a towne in Bohemia wâ—th diuers pictures of men horses and Landskips where there is a tree represented most naturally because it is represented by the very wood of a tree Petrifyed into stone and looking like wood as it was and shinning like polishd stone as it now is The statues or bustos of three or four of the Great Dukes in Porphyry A curious looking glasse ouer the inside of the doore which placed directly ouer the picture of a man contracts into it the picture of a woman that mans wife which you see plainly in it drawing thus Eue out of Adam againe by a curious reflexion In the 3 Cabinet I was showne a curious table of polished stones representing perfectly the towne and hauen of Ligorne A great Cabinet of Ebeny beset with pretious stones on the outside and with the history of the holy Scriptures curiously expressed in miniature in seueral little squars of rich stones set here and there In the top of it there is a German clock now out of order and no man dare mend it Within this great Cabinet I saw the passion of our Sauiour curiously cut by Michael Angelo in yuory say they but I beleeue it s in white waxe There is also in it the figures of our Sauiour and his twelue Apostles in yellow amber with their heads in white amber All these seueral peeces are not seen at once but come vp into sight one after another as the man turns them This Ebeny Cabinet was sent â—o the great Duke by the Duke of Bauaria and it s valued at fourscore thousand crownes I beleeue if it were to be sold it would not yeeld forty thousand crownes but its hansome sayth Seneca for those that receiue courtesies to value them high Here are also some pictures of great value as the Adam and Eue of the hand of Alberto Dureo an original peece valued at 1500 crownes An original Venus of Titian that in the Poggio Imperiale here of which
the great Hall of this pallace a vast roome painted on all sides of the Walls with bold painting representing the Victoires of the Florentins anciently Here it is that on midsommer day the country people come and dance before the Great Duke and the best dancers are recompenced with an honorable reward 6. From hence I was let into the long Corridor or close Gallery which runns from the new Pallace to the old ouer the riuer and ouer the topps of houses for the space of half a mile with many turnings and windings It s very vsefull for the Prince when he will go see his pretious Treasure in the old Pallace or els go priuately and heare how iustice is ministred there For the Great Duke Francis gaue order to Buontalenti a rare Architect to break a window from this Corridor into the great roome in the old pallace where the magistrats render iustice but yet so priuately that none should perceiue it The Architect did it by setting vp there the Dukes armes at large and breaking a window behinde them so imperceptibly that the Great Duke through the little holes made in the six boules of his armes could both heare and see how Iustice was rendered there by his officers And one day hearing a poore woman oppressed by an vniust sentence he sent for the Iudges and reprehending them seuerely he reuersed the former sentence and hearing the cause a new himself pronunced Sentence for the poore woman 7. This long Corridor led vs to the new Pallace called the Palazzo di Piti because it was begun to be built by Luca Piti after the designe of Brunellischi but the expences growing too great for Pitis purce it was bought by the mother of great Cosmus the II and afterwards carryed on by her to that perfection we now see it in and which makes it one of the prime pallaces of Europe The designe of it for it is not yet all quite built is to be a perfect Roman H with double roomes on all sides As you ascend vp to it by an easy ascent from the street it presents you with a fair broad side of building in which I counted two and twenty great windows all in a row and all a like and all of them cheekt vp on either Fide by Sine stone pillars The fashion of building in this pallace as in most of the best pallaces of Florence is that which they call in architecture la maniera rustica where great freestones are made aduanceing a little one ouer the other Entering into the Pallace we saw the fair court and in the end of it the Grotta or fountain with a larg basin in which they keep fish for present vse This Court is squar and open onely on one side towards the garden but hedged in with a high terrasse of stone whose top is leuel with the ground of the garden Beyond this terrasse and court lyes a fine green spot of ground leuel with the first story of the pallace and half compassed about with a demicircle of laurel trees high and thick Vnder these trees of the demicircle rise vp stone seats six rowes high like the seats in an Amphitheater and capable of two thousand men who may all sit here with ease and behold the sports of Caualry which are often exhibited vpon this fair green spot of ground by the nobility the Great Duke and the Court beholding all this from the windows of the pallace while the rest of the nobility and Ladyes are seated conueniently in the Amphitheater vnder the trees The rest of this garden is curiously setforth with thickets of bayes close shady walkes fine high open walkes ouer looking both the towne and country great ponds of water a world of statues of marble and stone a rare round basin of water with fountains and much wetting sport the place for birds and beasts the curious Ice house and coole Cellar vnder it where the melting ice dropping downe vpon the barrels of wine refresh it so exceedingly that in all my life time I neuer drunck so coole as I did at the tap in this cellar But to returne againe to the pallace from whence this garden hath led me from the garden we ascended into the chambers of the Great Dukes appertiment and found them most sumptuous both for contriuance and furniture Some of them are painted ouer head by Pietro di Cortona the prime painter now liuing others expect his returne againe from Rome and scorne to be painted by any hand but his in another chamber we were showne the history of Saleucus giuing to his onely sonn Antiochus languishing and pincing away with the loue of his mother in law his owne beloued wife Stratonica shewing by this strange and vnick example that paternal loue is greater then Conjugal All this is rarely painted vpon the wall ouer the hangings In another chamber the Great Dukes chamber of Audienc I saw a sute of hangings Valewed at a hundred and fifty thousand crownes The Ground of them is cloth of gold vpon which are embrodered a world of birds beasts flowers trees riuers Land-skips in silk and syluer and in such a rich manner that I take this to one of the fairest sutes of hangings in Europe In an other chamber here I saw a rare collection of pictures all originals and of the best hands in the world Titians Raphaels Michael Angelos Andrea del Sartos and many others The best of them is that of Raphael and painted by his owne hand This is the best collection of pictures that euer I saw and it belongs to Prince Leopold the Great Dukes brother and a great Virtuoso In the Great Dutcesses chamber I saw half a dozen of excellent peeces of Raphael and others In another chamber The Dukes Bedchamber we saw his curious Thermometers or weather glasses which are most curious In an other chamber the doores being set open for the Nonce we looked through sixteen chambers at once and all of them faire great roomes vpon one floore And after all the roomes of this house as the coole low sommer roomes the masking roome the seueral appartiments of the Great Prince sonn of the Great Duke and of Cardinal Iohn Carlo Prince Matthias and Prince Leopold all three brothers of the Great Duke and all lodgeing at once in this great Pallace by special fauour we got the sight of the Great Dukes faire Diamond which he alwayes keeps vnder lock and key It s absolutly the fairest in Europe It weigheth 138 charats and it s almost an inch thick and then our iewellers will tell you what its worth I am sure Monsieur Simonet in Lyons a famous ieweller to whom I shewed the weight and thickness of it valewed in to be richly worth a hundred thousand crownes between marchant and marchant and a hundred and fifty thousand crownes between Prince and Prince 8. Going from the Great Dukes Pallace we fell presently vpon the Augustins Church This is a
the gamesters and see both how modestly they play and how little they play for In the mean time ther 's a side chamber alwayes open for gentlemen to go in to and refresh themselues with wine standing in snow or with limonade or some such cooling drinks which are also offered to the Ladyes In a great roome bellow at the entrance of the pallace there is a long table for gamesters that loue to play deep that is that loue to play onely for money The Florentins enioying by the goodness and wisdome of their excellent Princ the fruits of peace haue many other recreations where the people passe their time chearfully and think not of rebellion by muttering in corners For this reason both in winter and sommer they haue their seueral diuertisments In winter their Giuoco di Calcio a play something like our football but that they play with their hands euery night from the Epiphany till Lent with their Principi di Calcio This being a thing particular to Florence deserues to be described The two factions of the Calcio the Red and the Green choose ecih of them a Prince some yong Caualier of a good purse These Princes being chosen choose a world of Officers and lodge for the time in some great pallace where they keep their courts receiue Embassadors from one another and giue them publik audience in state send poste to one another complaine of one anothers subiects take prisoners from one another heare their counsellers one after another disswadeing from or perswadeing to warre giue orders for setling their affairs at home heare the complaints of their subiects ieere their enemy Princes in embassyes and at last resolue to fight with proclayming warre Dureing these serious treatyes which last for many nights the Secretaryes of state two prime witts read before their seueral Princes bills for regulating and reforming the abuses of their subiects and read openly petitions and secret aduises in all which they ieere a world of people in the towne and show prodigious wit In fine hauing spunn out thus the time till neare Carnauale or shroftide the two Princes resolue on a battle at Calcio to be fought in the Piazza of Santa Croce before the Great Duke and Court Vpon the day apointed the two Princes of the Calcio come to the place in a most stately Caualcata with all the yong noblemen and gentlemen of the towne vpon the best horses they can finde with scarfs red or green about their Armes Haueing made their seueral Caualcatas before the Great Dukes throne or scaffold they light from their horses and enter into the lists with trompets sounding before them and accompanyed with a stately train and with their combatants in their seueral liueryes Hauing rancked themselues a prety distance one from the other their standard bearers at sound of trumpet carry both at once their standards to the foot of the Great Dukes scaffold This done the Ball or Ballon is throwne vp in the midst between them and to it they go with great nimbleness sleight and discretion and sometimes they fall to it in deed and cuff handsomely but vpon payne of death no man must resent afterwards out of the lists what euer happened here but all animosities arriseing here end here too At last that side which throwes or strikes the Ballon ouer the rayles of the other side winns the day and runns to the standards which they carry away till night at what time the conquering Prince enterteins them at a Festino di Ballo at Court made to some Lady and where all his chief Officers and combatants dance alone with the Ladyes at the Ball none els being permitted to dance with them that night Besides these passtimes they haue once a week danceing at the Court from twelfth day till Lent at which Balls all the Ladies of the towne are inuited to the number sometimes of two hundred and these all marryed women and all inuited by a particular ticket Then their seueral Operas or musical Drammata acted and sung with rare cost and arte Lastly their publick running at the ring or at the facchin for a peece of plate And in sommer they haue their seueral danceing dayes and their frequent Corsi di Palio vpon certain knowne days for knowne prizes and all before the good Prince who countenanceth all these sports with his presence thinking wisely that ther 's lesse hurt in puplick mirth then in priuate mutinyes Hauing sayd thus much of Florence I will now say something of the Court the Gouerment strength Gentry Riches Interest Language and Learned men of this towne For the Court it s clearly one of the best of Italy Great riches make it looke plump and giue it an excellent en bon point The noble Pallace the Prince his Title of Serenissimo his Train and Retinew of noble Officers and gentlemen his store of Pages Palfreniers Gards of Swissers with halbards his Troupe of horse wayting vpon him make this Court appeare splendid The Duke himself also who makes this Court makes it a fine Court His extraordinary Ciuility to stangers made vs think our selues at home there He is now aboue fifty and hath a Austrian looke and lip which his mother Magdalena of Austria Sister to the Emperour Ferdinand the II. lent him He admits willingly of the visits of strangers if they be men of condition and he receiues them in the midst of his audience chamber standing and will not discourse with them till they be couered too It s impossible to depart from him disgusted because he pays your visit with as much wit as ciuility and hauing enterteined you in his chamber with wise discourse he will entertein you in your owne chamber too with a regalo of dainty meats and wines which he will be sure to send you The Great Dutchesse too is an other main pillar of this Court. She is of the house of the Duke of Vrbin once a Souerain Prince in Italy but now extinct in her Father who was the last Duke and she had been souerain of that Dutchy had she been of the Souerain sexe but what nature refused her in sexe it hath giuen her in beauty and so made her a greater souerain euen of Florence In a word Florence the Faire was neuer so faire as was the faire Dutchesse of Florence when I saw her first Of her the Great Duke hath two sonnes Cosmus the Prince of Toscane hath married one of the Daughters of the late Duke of Orlians Hee is a great Traueller and hath visited most of the Princes courts of Christendome The name of this family is Medices a family which hâ—ah giuen to the Church four Popes and to France two Queens This family is ancient and came first out of Athens It was alwayes considerable dureing the Republick of Florence but farr more since it hath got the start of all the other families to farre as to become their Souerain The beginning of
each hand both which are full of curious bookes both manuscripts and printed bookes diuers of which were showne me with great ciuility by Monsignor Holstenius then keeper of this Library whom I had formerly knowne The chief of these bookes were these A vast Hebrew Bible too heauy for any man to lift vp An ancient copie of the Septuagints translation in Greek after which the Bible hath been printed both in Rome and London The Acts of the Apostles in Greek curiously written in golden letters The Ghospel written by S. Chrysostoms owne hand An Hebrew Bible written in sheets of parchment pasted to one another and rowled vp hence the word Volumen for a booke A little booke written in barke of trees hence the word folium for a leaf in a booke Certain old Roman Table bookes A China Tablebooke of wood in which they wrote with a pointed steele A curious China booke all in Hieroglyphs and folded vp in many folds our Purchas in his curious nauigations hath both printed and deciphered it Polidor Virgils history of England written with his owne hand An old booke of Sermons in Latin in whose margin S. Thomas of Aquin had made notes with his owne hand An old Virgil with the pictures of the history in old painting An old Terence written twelue hundred yeares a goe and the ancientest that euer Politian saw as he testifyeth vnder his owne hand in the inside of the couer of this booke Baronnius his Annals in his owne hand writeing The rare quotations out of the ancient Fathers painfully and faithfully collected out of the best copies by learned Cardinal Sirleto in the time of the Council of Trent and sent by him weekly by the Poste from Rome to the Fathers in the Council who proceeded to their definitions by the ancient tradition of the Church found so plainly and vnanimously in those Fathers Those quotations make six Volumes in folio and this was it which out aduersaryes call the sending downe of the Holy Ghost to Trent in a cloak-bag when it was onely the seding downe of these faithfull testimonies of the Tradition of the Church gathered out of the most ancient and authentick copies The letters of Henry the VIII of England to Anne Bolen his mistresse then in his owne hand writeing Some in English some in French but all amatory It is easy to imagine them written by him if you compare the hand-writing of these letters with those two Verses written by the Kings owne hand in the frontispice of the following Booke to wit The booke which the sayd Henry wrotte against Martin Luther and dedicated it by a couple of Latin verses written with is owne hand in the Frontispice of it to Pope Leo the tenth which booke purchased to King Henry the honorable title of defender of the faith Then I was showne the Library of the Duke of Vrbin who dyeing without heires male bequeathed his Library to the Vatican Library here In this I saw many rare manuscripts written in parchment and painted in miniature especialy that booke in whose margins are painted by a rare hand and wonderfull diligence all the insects in nature in their liuely colours and true resemblance Ouer against this Library they shewed me in the same roome the Library of Heidelberg sent to Rome by the Duke of Bauaria after he had dispossessed the Elector Frederick Prince Palatin of Rhein of his country as well as of the kingdome of Bohemia which he had seazed on at the instigation of Bethleem Gabor and others See the Mercure François They shewed me here among diuers other bookes the booke of designes of the sayd Prince Elector Palatin which he had designed being yong Happy Prince if he had not designed to himself an other mans crowne In the great roome of this Library there is an iron dore which leteth you into a more secret roome where the Registers of the Church of Rome are kept the keeper of which Registers was anciently called Chartularius an office much like to that in the Greek Church called Cartophylax In fine I was showne here diuers letters of great persons and Princes written with their owne hands as of S. Charles Boromaeus to Cardinal Sirleto who had had a hand in his education of Queen mary of England of King Philip the second of Spayne hir husbād stileing himselfe King of Spayne England and France of Francis the First of France of Margaret of Parma that Gouerned Flanders when it reuolted of President Vargas a Spaniard and a great statesman in Flanders but no great Latinist as it appeared by his answer to the Doctors of Louain petitioning him in Latin for their priuiledges when he se sayd Non curamus vostros priuilegios Mali faxerunt templa boni nihil faxerunt contra ergo debent omnes patibulari the tearmes of the expostulation being as harsh as the Conclusion of it and some old polite Orators had rather haue been hangd indeed then threatened in such bad Latin A little before I went out of this Library I sawe neere the dore the Statue of Hippolitus Bishop of Portua who liued 1400 yeares ago sitting in a chair of stone vpon which is cut in Greek letters the ancient Canon Paschalis vpon which Scaliger and others haue written It s a curious peece of learned antiquity and worthy to he taken notice of 16. Hauing seen the Library we were led on by the long Gallery mentioned before vnto the Beluedere were we descended into the Popes priuate garden full of orange trees fine walkes and fountains Here are three or four vnauoidable wetting places to those that are not acquainted with them Henc you goe downe to see the rare fountain of the iron ship In this garden I saw the Pineapple of brasse guilt which is as great as three men can fathom about and twice as high as the tallest man can reach Here also stand by it the two great Peacocks of brasse guilt which stood anciently vpon Scipio Affricanus his tombe and are some three or four yeards long 17. From hence we were led hard by to see the Beluedere of the Maschere which Michel Angelo called his Studie It s a squar Court sett with Orange trees in whose walls are great Niches with leaues to them of wood where the choyce statues of the world are conserued vnder lock and key and free from ill weather The chief statues here are these that of the riuer Nilus and that of Tyber both in cumbent postures That of Antinous minion of the Emperor Adrian it s of pure oriental marble and rarely cut that of Cleopatra that of Venus comeing out of a bath that of Commodus the Emperor that of Laocoon and his sonns inuolued about with serpents This statue of Laocoon is the master peece of sculpture That in the middle of the Court of Hercules without armes leggs or head is so rare a trunck that Michel Angelo professed
vpon his owne shoulders In this Church lye buryed S. Philip and Iacob two Apostles In the Piazza before this Church stand four fine pallaces that of the Prince Colonna that of Cardinal Ghisi that of Cardinal Sforza and that of the Signori Muti. Crossing from hence into the Corso I tooke an exact obseruation of this street which is the fairest in Rome It s called the Corso because here it is that they make horses run against horses Iews against Iews boyes against boyes and the like in Carneual time Here also it is that the Mascarades march in Carneual time and make themselues and others merry and and all this is allowed the Italians that they may giue a little vent to their spirits which haue been stifled in for a whole yeare and are ready els to choke with grauity and melancholy most men here liuing alone in their houses and chambers If our Statesmen in England had gone on in the course their wise ancestours had shewed and had suffered as they did some honest recreations to the people as bowling shooting raceing c to giue vent to their actiue spirits we had all been happyer but while both the Tribunals and the Pulpits thundered out against moderate recreations and assemblyes out of feare and faction they made the humour of the Englishmen grow so sowre and bitter that nothing would please them but flat rebellion and fanatick heresies Now here in Rome once a yeare In Carneual time euery one vents his humour according to his fancy and as it seems according to his need One playes the Doctor of the Law and goes vp and downe the streets with his booke in his hand disputeing with euery man he meets and vttering pure raillerie and if by chance two such Doctors meet they make sport enough for half an houre by their abuseing one another Four of these pretended Doctors with their gownes and caps on and their bookes of the Codex before them got an Asse into their coach who had also an open booke before him and thus they went along the streets studyeing and turning ouer their bookes Another takes himself to be a Grand Cyrus and goes a horseback with a rich Persian habit and Plumes highly mounted One went a foot grauely with a cloake on cryed a secret against mice and opening his cloake shewd a cat that he had vnder his arme Another went vp and downe the street combeing his haire like a spaniard saluting the Ladyes and twirling vp his mustaches with a stayed grauity Some go in coaches and there play on instruments others go on great carts with little stages of bordes throwne vpon them and there act little playes as they go along and abuse tradsmen One rides like a physitian vpon a mule with a world of vrinals hung round about him Others ride grauely through the streets with great clackbags behinde them as if they came from Polonia Some Princes here make glorious Carro's with four horses on a breast drawing them and with rare pageants vpon them and a great traine of horsemen and trumpeters clad exotically accompanying the Carro in a most glorious manner Some noblemen of highest quality as Dukes and Princes I haue seen going a foot pelting with sugar plums those that were in coaches and windowes and angering them with their sugar affronts But neuer did any Mascarade please like that speculatiue Italian who mocked both the French and the Spaniards at once by walking vp and downe the street clad half like a Don and half like a Monsieur Oneside of his haire hung downe in a long curled lock powdered white the other side was black and sweaty Half of his beard was turned downewards the other half was turned vp with yrons and twirled in like the hilt of an old dragger One eye was bare and the other had a glasse or half spectacle before it held on by a small wyar from vnder his hat Half his hat was a narrow three-fingered-brimd hat with a little half feather vpon the brim the other half of it was a broad brim with out so much as a hat band One half of his band about his neck was of a broad bonlace startched white the other half was made of course lawne startched blew and standing out vpon a picky illy of wyar Half of his face looked white with meale and pouder the other half looked black and tawny Half of his doublet was white satin with an open sleeue and a world of shirt huffing about his wrist and half of his waste the other half was of black freeze with a black taffetty sleeue close and strait to the arme and a hanging sleeue of freeze One half of his breeches was of scarlat and vastly wide at the knee with a confusio of rubans of six colours the other half was of black taffety close at thâ— knee Vpon one leg he had a linenen stocking with a great laced canon turned downe to his half leg on the other he had a black silk stocking drawne vp close In fine on one foote he had a white spanish-leather shoo with a stiff knot of six coloured ruband a quarter of an ele long on the other a little black flat soled shoo tyed with a short narrow ruband Thus this moral Hermaphrodite and walking Emblem of peace betwen the two nations walked vp and downe the Corso grauely yet laughing within himself to see how he carryed about him two such antipathetical nations in one sute of clothes By this you may gesse at their other fooleries in Carneual time and see how innocently they diuert themselues for you must know that none are suffered to carry swords or armes while they go masked thus nor to enter into any house nor to be abroad masked after it grows darke nor to do or speake any thing scandalously that may shok ciuility or publick view for which reason here are alwayes gards set and sargeants rideing vp and downe the street of the Corso to keep all in order and to make euen mirth obserue decency In this street also of the Corso it is that noblemen and Ladyes take the ayre euery fair euening in their coaches For this reason there are many fine pallaces built in this street as the Pallace of Signor Vitelleschi where I saw tenn chambers on a floore and all of them filled with a rare collection of pictures and statues Among the statues I was pleased exceedingly with that of Cincinnatus and with that of Brutus defaced by the command of the Senate where the very markes of the punches of the Halbards wherwith they defaced it are yet seen Not farre from it stands the pallace of Prencipe Pamfilio in which I saw more riches and rare furniture then in any house in Rome or almost in Italy For here they shewed me excellent plate of gold and syluer an Agate Crosse fixed vpon a foote of the roote of Saphir-stone and vnder it a basis beset round with Cameos cut into pictures a great syluer Crucifix
vpon an ebeny frame the whole worth 12000 crownes a rare cabinet with the picture of our blessed Lady in it the whole valued at 6000 crownes a sword whose hilt is of three great Turky stones of great Value a basin of gold set thick with Turky stones three or four great Besoars stones as big as pearmanes which had been presented to Clement the VIII from all parts because he stood in need of them a rich miter set with pretious stones of great Value a world of curious originals of the best painters hands curious saddles harnesse liueryes of show embrodered with gold and syluer with many other rich curiosities The other pallaces in the Corso are these that of Prencipe Carboniano that of Cardinal Franciotti that of Don Augustino Chisi that of Prencipe Lâ—douisio that of the Duke Caetano There are also in this street some Churches worth takeing notice of as that of S. Maria in Via Lata which stands neere the Pallace of the Prince Pamfilio It s an ancient Church and a Cardinals title Baronius sayth that it s built there where S. Paul lodged at his first comeing to Rome It s sayd also that in the Oratory here S. Luke wrote the Acts of the Apostles There is also in the Corso the Church of S. Marcello a title of a Cardinal It was built in the place where anciently stood the Temple of the infamous Egyptian Godesse Isis which Tiberius himself caused to be pulled downe the Idol throwne into Tyber and all the Priests of it to be crucifyed for hauing fauoured a great crime comitted by a Roman Lady Behinde this Church stands the Oratory of S. Marcello called the Oratory of the holy Crucifix where there is a famous Confraternity in which many noble men of Rome are enrolled Euery friday in Lent there is excellent musick and one of the best preachers in Rome From hence also in the Holy yeare I saw march a procession of 15000 men all in black buckram coats to the heeles with a white torch in their hands and they went from hence on the night of Manday Thursday vnto S. Peters Church Then the Church of S. Carlo in Corso where J saw the heart of S. Charles Borromeo in a Cristal case This Church belongs to the Milanesi Then the Church of S. Iacomo de gl'Incurabili a neat round Church belonging to the Hospital here where they that are afflicted with incurable diseases are entertained and well tended Lastly the Church of the penitent whores with their Conuent where all those poore souls that repent themselues of their bad life are receiued and kept all their life time at the cost of this Conuent And here I found a great difference between this Conuent and the house in Amsterdam where whores are clapt vp For here these poore souls are locked vp with their owne consent and desire there they are lockt vp by force and violence Here the poore women do great acts of austerityes and penance as the bloody walls of their Celles layd open by a conflagration shewed vnto all the Citie there the yong women laugh and are merry Here no man is permitted to speak alone with them except their Confessor physitian there many men go to prattle and passe their time with those wanton girles at a separation of rayles Here a Vayle hides these poore womens faces there I saw diuers with black patches on their faces Here all signes of true repentance are seen there none Here the loue of vertue and penaÌ„ce locks vp these there the Vice of Loue locks in those and not true repentance For really all the repentance I saw there was that it repented me that I had suffered mine hoste who would needs shew me all the rarityes of Amsterdam to lead me thither O but sayd a Holander to me the Pope allowes whores in Rome To whom I answered no more Sr then your states do drunkenness which is a greater sinn of the two because it rides double and carryeth luxury behinde it Do not drink wine in which is luxury Ephes 5. But sayth an English writer I am told that the Pope both permits them and takes money of them too for that permission You haue been told many other false tales by those who think it lawfull to tell vntruths so they speak but against the Pope in the meane time I that haue been fiue times in Rome can tell you the contrary if by permitting you meane allowing and aproueing of them in that course There 's a great difference between allowing and permitting a thing Moyses allowed not but yet permitted the libel of diuorce to the Iewes for the hardness of their hearts So vsury is permitted but not allowed in diuers countries for trades sake But why takes he money of them This money is taken vp by you vpon credit not the Pope For the Pope is so farre from receiuing any money of these drabbs that he goes to great cost to hinder their trading No man perhaps hath told you this and therefore I le tell it you know then that the Pope to hinder all yong women from being naught hath founded Hospitals for poore girles where they are carefully brought vp till they become either marryed wifes or Nunns Nay he giues them dowries also to execute this their choyce distributeing yearly vpon the Feast of our Ladyes day in Lent in the Church of the Domicans supra Mineruam a purse of money a peece to three hundred yong mayds who are presented to him by the ouerseers of the foresayd Hospitals Nor is this all for he causeth yong girles of tender yeares to be taken from their poore suspected mothers least pouerty quae cogit ad turpia should make them sacrifice those tender virgins to rich mens lusts In fine he hath caused a Monastery to be built in Rome to receiue those poore vnfortunate women in who would leaue that infamous course if they had but meanes to liue on Nay he granteth Indulgences to any that will marry any of those women to free them from that lewd course and make them mend All this the Pope doth and much more which would be a destroying of his owne trade and gayne if it were true that he countenanceth and alloweth of whores for his gayne No miller euer deturned the current of water from his owne mill But why doth not the Pope discountenance and punish whores that are knowne to be such He doth so For is it not a discountenanceing of them to forbid them to come to publick meetings and assemblyes where women of honour meet as at the Corso in the euenings at publick mariages at their sung operas and the like is it not a discountenanceing of them to forbid theÌ„ to go in coaches in the day time or to stirre out of dores in the night Is it not a punishment to them to forbid them to liue together where they might encourage one an other and
we steered towards Milan againe to make the compleat gyrâ— of Italy The first dayes journey was to Vicenza a fine towne belonging to the Venetians and standing vpon the two riuers of Bachilione and Rerone Here we saw the neat Townehouse and large piazza the house and fine garden of Count Valmerana with the curious Labyrinth in the garden the Arcus Triumphalis made by Palladio at the townes end letting you into a fair field called the Champo Marzo where Ladyes and Caualiers in great store meet at the Corso in their coaches euery sommer Euening the admirable Theater for playes and Operas it was made also by rare Palladio is capable of three thousand people who may all sit and see with conueniency The fine pallaces here and those full of people of condition Here 's an Academy of wits called Gl'Olympici He that desires to know the History of Vicenza let him read Iacomo Marzari and Alfonso Loschi From Vicenza we went to Verona called Verona la Nobile belonging to the Venetians also It standt in excellent ayre and no man euer saw it but liked it It s watered with the riuer Addesis which comeing out of Germani runns by Trent and so to Verona Hence this towne abounds with good prouisions wines and rich marchants Which makes me of opinion that Verona would be a bettet sommer towne for strangers to liue in then Padua The things that I saw here were these The three Castles which with the new bulworks make this towne able to defend it self against any enemy 2. The Cathedral or Domo ancient rather then stately In it is buryed Pope Lucius the III with this ingenious Epitaphe vpon his tombe Luca dedit lucem tibi Luci Pontificatum Ostia Papatum Roma Verona mori Imo Verona dedit tibi Lucis gaudia Roma Exilium curas Ostia Luca mori 3. The famous tombe of the Signori della Scala who once were Masters here and from whom Ioseph and Iulius Scaliger pretend to haue comne This tombe is seen from the Street and is much esteemed for its height and structure 4. In the Monastery of S. George the rate picture of S. George made by Paolo Veronese for which the late Lord Marschal of England offered two thousand pistols 5. The rare Amâ—hitheater built at first by the Consul Flaminius and repayred since by the townesmen and now the most entire amphitheater in Europe Here 's also an Academy of wits called Gli Philarmonici The famousest men for learning here were these Zeno Veronensis an ancient Father and great Preacher Cornelius Nepos Pliny the secâ—nd Catullus According to that Mantua Virgilio gaudet Verona Caâ—ullo Fracastorius Onuphrius Panuinus Paulus Aemilius the historian Francesco Pona Alâ—ysius Nouarinus and Paolo Veronese the ingenious Painter Neare Verona vpon the Plains before you come to the towne was fought a famous battle where C. Marius defeated the Cimbers Neare this towne also was fought a famous battle between Theoderick and Odeacer where the latter was defeated He that desires to know the history of Verona let him read Torello Saraina Girolamo di Corte Compendio dell Istoria di Verona and the Antiquitates Veronenses of Onuphrius Panvinus From Verona we went to Brescia by the way of Peschiera and Disensanâ— Peschiera is a strong Fort belonging to the Venetians and garded by a constant garrison It stands vpon the Lago di Garda Lacus Benacus anciently and is almost surrounded by its Crystalin waters It s a most Regular Fortification with fiue Bastions and high Ramparâ—s which couer the whole towne Disenzano is a little towne vpon the Lake of Garda also Here they haue excellent fish and Vine that is rare Carpioni and muscatello which they call Vino Santo From hence after dinner we arriued betimes at Brescia another strong towne of the Venetians We saw here the Castle the Towne house neat Churches the ramparts and walls of the towne the crystalin Brooks running through the streets and the shops of the gunnsmiths especially that of famous Lazarino Comminazzo The best Historians of the Brescian affairs is Ottauio Rossi in his booke called Memoria Brâ—scianae From Brescia I went once to Crema and Bergamo two strong townes of the Venetians and both frontiers to the State of Milan The first is very strong and famous for fine linnen made here The latter is strong too both by its Castle good walls and its high situation vpon a hill which giues you a fair prospect into the Milanese for twenty or thirty miles In the Church of the Augustins lyes buryed Ambrosius Calepinus author of the excellent Latin Dictionary which learned Passeratius hath set out since with great additions It s in six languages From Bergamo I went to Milan one days journey An other time I went from Brescia to Milan by the way of Mantua and Mirandola Mantua belongs to a Soueraine Duke or Prince of the house of Gonsague Its stands in the midst of Marshes which are nurrished by the riuer Mincius so that there 's no coming to it but by two long bridges ouer the Lake And yet this towne was taken some forty yeares ago no towne being impregnable where an Asse laden with gold can enter or where faction keeps one gate For about that time the Emperors Army by secret intelligence presenting it self before it was let in and sacked the towne At the entrance of the towne gates they obserue the fashion of many other townes in Italy to make Trauelers leaue their pistols and carabins at the gate where they enter and not see them againe till they meet them at the other gate where they goe out giueing them for all that a contrasegno or little talley where of you keep one peéce and the other is tyed to your pistols where by you may clayme and challenge them This is an ancient custome in the Romans times as I finde in Valerius Maximus who sayth it was the practise of those of Marseilles then a Roman Colonie vt hospitia sua quemadmodum aduenientibus humana sunt ita ipsis tuta sint As for Mantua it self it s well built and full of good houses The Dukes Pallace was heretofore one of the richest of Italy I was told that it had seauen changes of hangings for euery roome in the house besides a world of rare pictures Statues plate ornaments cabinets an Vnicorns horne an Organ of Alabaster six tables each one three foot long the first all of emerauds the second of Turky stones the third of hyacinths the fourth of Saphirs the fift of Amber the sixt of Iasper stone But the Imperialists swept all away The origin of the house of Gonsague is from Germany For a long time they were onely Marquises of Mantua till Charles the V. made them Dukes The Reuenues of this Prince are about fiue hundred thousand crownes His Interest as that of the other lesser Princes of
restitution of decayed intelligence The Jtalian Humour Their maÌ„ners See Monsignor Caza Stephano Guazzo Baltazar CastiglioÌ„e Their Ceremonies Their particular customes Nomen quasi noâ—amen S. Aug. Their Riches Their Religion Rex est nomen officij S. Ambr. Yssone Fontainbelleau The Court of the Cheual Blanc The Oual Court. The Gallery of staggs heads The Galleries of RomaÌ„ces The Salle of the Conference See the Publick Acts of this Conference printed an 1601. Madame Gabriells picture The Chappels Old Carps De re Rust An old InscriptioÌ„ concerning Englishmen Montargis Briare The Coniunction of Loire and Sene. Lyons A noble Chapter S. Iohns Church The Towne house Other Rarities The rare Cabinet of Monsieur Seruier Vienne Tournon Valence Pont S. Esprit Auignon The rarities Aix Marseilles La saincte Baume See Baronius ad an 35. Gordons Cronology Gerard of Nazareth in a treatise ex professo Valer. Max. Mulier peccatrix in ciuitate See Baron an 35 Genebrad Gautier Chassanus and Monsieur du Vair S Maximin Pyrrho dicebat nihil interesse inter vitam mortem Geneua The rarities Petrus a S. Romualdo in Diario The Lake of Geneua Lausanna Swisserland Berne signifies as much as Beare Soleur Petrus Romualdus in Cronolog Tresor to 1. pag. 83. in fol. Murat The Lake of Murat A long Bridge Coire S. Lucius the first Christian King The Valtaline Mount Berlin Le Splug Mount Aurigo The Lakes of wallinstade Jsee S. Maurice The Valesians Their Strength Martigni Sion The best Gards of a Prince Plus tutatur Amor Lucia Briga Mount Sampion Deuedra Domodoscela Marguzzi Lake Maior Sâ—sto Ciuita Castellanza Mount Aiguebellet Chambery The Entry of the Dutchesse of Sauoy Montmelian Isere Aiguebelle S. so S. Iohn Morian Lasnebourg Mount Cenis Noualese Suza Le pas de Suse Piedmont S. Ambrosio Riuolle Turin The Riuer Po. Petrus a S. Romualdo Cron. to 1 The Duke of Sauoys titles and greatness His Subiects His countryes extent His forces Reuennues His interest The towne of Turin The things to be seen in Turin The Holy Syndon The Citadelle The Pallace The bathing place The old Gallery The new street The Piazza Reale The Augustins Church The Capucins Church La Venerie Royale La Valentine From Turin to Genua Sauona La Riuiera di Genua Dreido a S. Quintino lib. 1. de morib Act. Norman Genua The walls The Hauuen The Pharos The Cittye it selfe The streets Strada Noua The Domo Baron ad an 1101. n. 13. Beda l. dâ— loc sanct c. 2. The Annunciata Gli Signori Lomelini S. Amâ—â—sio S. Cyro The Pallaces The Pallaces of Signori Balbi The Doges Pallace The Armory San Pietro in Arena The Villa of the Duke d'Oria The Gouerment Their Fashions Guardinfanta signifies a Child-preseruer Their Riches Their Strength Their Interest Their learned men The Academy of Wits Their Historian Monferat Cassale Alexandria Noui. Tortona Pauia Ticinum The Domo The Equestris statua of Autoninus S. Augustins body Baron an 725. Baron an 1027. The tombe of Seuerinus Boetius See Baron an 525. Learned men The Historians The Battle of Pauia See Monlukes Commentaries The Carthusians Monastery Milan The Dutchy of Milan Store of Gentry Store of Artizans S. Ambrose his Church S. Ambrose his Tombe Read S. Augustin lib. 9 Conf c. 7. Numb 21 v. 8. Iohn 3.14 The Hymne Te Deum The place of the CoÌ„uersion of S. Austin The Cistertians Monastery S. Victors Church S. Nazario S. Eustorgio The Domo S. Lorenzo The Holy Naile The Hospital The Seminary The colledge of the Swissers The Lazzaretto The Library The Gallery of pictures The Dominicans The Gratie The Cabinet of Canonico Setaly Some Pallaces The Castle The shops The Academy of witts The learned Men. A strong body Leandro Alberto A Strong mind Its reuenues It s strenth Its Historians Marignano Lodi Piacenza Its Rarities A peece of thrift It s History Parma The Dukes Pallace The Domo The Capucins Alexander Farnese Some Criticks hold Quintus Curtius to be a Romance The Dukes Reuenues His interest His forces The Academy of wits It s History Regio Modena The Family of Estè Countesse Matilda The last true Consuls It s Learned Men. The Dukes Reuenues His interest His forces Fort Vrban Castel Franco Bologna The towne it selfe Jts Gouerment Its Priuiledges The Dominicans Church The Dominicans Conuent The Body Beata Catherina The Corso S. Michael in Bosco Other stately Monasteries S. Petronios Church The Domâ— Other Churches The Legats Pallace Aldrouan dus his Study Cabinet The Schooles The Spanish Colledge The 2 Towers The Houses in Bolognia The Nobility The Traffick The Markets The Academy of wits The Learned Men. The Historians Remember this Bolettina Traueler The Apennin Hills Tertul. l. de Poenitent c. 12. Fiorenzuola My arriual at Florence Florence The Chappel of S. Laurence The Church of S. Lorenzo The Library The Great Dukes Gallery Pictures of famous Souldiers Pictures of Learned Men. The Armory The 1. Cabinet The 2. Cabinet The 3. Cabinet The 4. Cabinet The 5. Cabinet The Argentaria The great Hall The long Corridor The new Pallace The Garden The Dukes Appartiment A Rare sute of Hangings The famous Diamond The Augustins Church The Piazza Three admirable Towers The Church of S. Michel The Domo The Cupola Leandro Alberti in Descript Jtal. The Councell of Florence In his restitution of decayed intelligeÌ„ce See Baker in Edward the 3. Vassari in the Liues of Painters in Cimabue The Campanile The Baptisterio Alfonso Loschi in his Compend Histo The Church of S. Mark The Annunciata Sancta Croce The Abbey S. Maria Nouella The statue of Iustice Poggio Imperialle Prato-Lino Lampeggio The stableâ— The Wild beasts In the Cronology of Petrus Romualdus to 1. pag. 15. Their Sports Jl Giuoco di Calcio Other Pastimes The Court. The Great Duke The Great Dutchesse The Medicean Family See Alfonso Loschi in his compendi Histor The Gouerment The strength The Gentry of Florence Riches Interest The Language The Academy of Wits The learned men The Historians Pistoia Lucca It s Gouerment It s strength Its Reuenews Pisa The Domo The bending Tower Some Colledges The Library The Physick garden The Knights of S. Stephano Ligorne San Cassiano Poggi Bonzi Siena The armes of Siena are a Woolf. The Domo The rare Pauement The Library S. Katharine of Siena Other Rarities The Academy of Wits The History Radicofino Aquapedente Can. ita nos 25. qu. 2. Bolsena The Lake of Bolsena Bosco Helerno Montefiascone Viterbo The Accademy of Wits Caprarola Monterosa Varca Veii Valer. Max. l. 1. c. 5. How Rome is stiled Roma la Santa Serm. 1. de Natal Apost Petri Paul Great Charityes in Rome Remedyes for euils of the body Meretrices lupas vocabant vnde Luparia Augustin de Ciuit. Deil. 18. c. 21. Quint. Curt. Almost euery nation hath an Hospital in Rome An ingenious peece of Charity Remedies for euils of the mind Osymunduas apud Herodot Publike Libraries Colledges Monasteries Houses for yong girles Remedies