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A34614 Remarks of the government of severall parts of Germanie, Denmark, Sweedland, Hamburg, Lubeck, and Hansiactique townes, but more particularly of the United Provinces with some few directions how to travell in the States dominions : together with a list of the most considerable cittyes in Europe, with the number of houses in each citty / written by Will. Carr ... Carr, William, 17th cent. 1688 (1688) Wing C636; ESTC R5052 66,960 226

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virtue and parts die neglected and poor in the eyes of the world though rich in the enioyment of a contented mind But this is a digression which the honour I have for the memory of that great man hath led mee into and therefore I hope will be pardoned by the Reader In the citadel of Manheim I saw some of the Records of that illustrious familie which without dispute is the most ancient of all the Secular Electors being elder to that of Bavaria which sprung from one and the same stock to wit two Emperours of Germany Many writers derive them originally from Charle le maigne by the line of Pepin King of France There have been severall Emperours of that race one King of Denmark and four Kings of Sweden one of which was King of Norway also besides many great Generals of Armies in Germany Hungary France and other Countries Since I can remember there vere five Protestant Princes heires to that Electorall dignity alive which now by their death is fallen to the Duke of Nowbourg a Roman Catholick whose Daughter is Empress of Germany and another of his Daughters maryed to the King of Portugall Being so neare Strasbourg I had the curiositie to goe see what figure that famous citie now made since it had changed its master for I had been thrice there before when it flourished under the Emperours protection with the liberty of a Hausiatick town And Indeed I found it so disfigured that had it not been for the stately Cathedrall Church and fair streets and buildings I could scarcely have know'n it In the streets and Exchange which formerly were thronged with sober rich and peaceable Merchants you meet with none hardly now but men in buff Coats and scarffs with rabbles of Soldiers their attendants The churches I confess are gayer but not so much frequented by the inhabitants as heretofore seing the Lutherans are thrust into the meanest churches and most of the chiefe Merchants both Lutherans and Calvinists removed to Holland and Hambourg Within a few years I beleeve it will be just such another city for trade and Richess as Brisac is It was formerly a rich city and well stockt with Merchants and wealthy inhabitants who lived under a gentle and easy government but now the Magistrats have litle else to doe in the government but onely to take their rules and measures from a citadell and great guns which are Edicts that Merchants least understand I confess Strasbourg is the less to be pityed that it so tamely became a slave and put on its chains without any strugling Those Magistrats who were instruments in it are now sensible of their own folly and bite their nails for anger finding themselves no better but rather worse hated than the other Magistrats who did what they could to hinder the reception of their new masters the French. I quickly grew weary of being here meeting with nothing but complaints of poverty and paying exorbitant taxes I therefore soon returned to my Petty-London Francfort and from thence went to Cassells the chiefe residence of the Landgrave of Hessen This Prince is a Calvinist as most of his subjects are very grave and Zealous in his religion He married a Princess of Courland by whom he hath an hopefull issue to wit three sons and two Daughters The late King was God father to one of his sons who was Christened by the name of Charles Captain William Legg Brother to the Lord Dartmouth representing his Majestie as his Envoy The court of this Prince does indeed resemble a well governed colledge or Religious Cloyster in regard of its modestie and regularitie in all things and especially in the houres of devotion He is rich in money and entertains about nine thousand men in constant pay under the command of Count van derlipp a brave and expert Soldier his Lieutenant Generall but can bring many more upon occasion into field This familie hath been very happy both in its progenie and alliances many wise Princes of both sexes having sprung from it and the mother of this present Landgrave may be reckoned amongst the illustrious women of the present and past ages After the death of William the 5. Landgrave of Hessen her husband she not only supported but advanced the war wherein he was engaged did many signall actions Enlarged her territories and at the conclusion of the peace kept under her pay 56 Cornets of horse in five Regiments 166 Companies of foot besides thirteen Companies of Dragons and 14 independent Companies in all 249 Companies of horse and foot she was a Princess extreamly obliging to strangers especially virtuous and learned divines I had the honour a good many yeares agoe to kisse her highnesses hand at which time she was mighty Zealous in promoting an accommodation amongst different Religions as the Roman Catholick Lutheran and Calvinist but especially betwixt the two latter and therefore entertained Doctor Duris at her court in Cassels who wrote severall pieces upon that subject of reconciliation and with some of his friends had a conference with a learned priest that came from Rome to forward the project whereupon the Doctor published his book of the Harmoney of Consent which is highly esteemed in Germany From this Princes court I directed my journey to Hanover taking Lambspring in my way a place where there is a convent of English Monks and there I met with a very aged worthy and harmeless Gentleman St. Thomas Gascoigue a Person of more integrity and pietie then to be guilty so much as in thought of what miscreants falsly swore against him in the licentions time of plotting the Lord Abbot and severall of the Monks I had seen there formerly This monastery is very obliging to all strangers that travell that way as well as to theire own Countreymen and is highly respected by the neighbouring Princes of all persuasions as the Princes of the house of Lunenburg the Landgrave of Hessen and Elector of Cologne who as Bishop of Hildersheim is their ordinary The town of Lambspring is Lutheran though under the government of the Lord Abbot and his chapter who constantly choose Lutheran Magistrats and Officers for the civill administration and live together in that love and unitie that as yet there hath never the least debate happened amongst them and indeed this harmoney is now to be observed in most parts of Germany where different Religions are professed When I considered so many goodly faces both of Monks and students in that Abbey I could not forbeare to make a serious reflexion on the number of the English whom I had seen in the colledges and Cloysters abroad as at Rome Rattesbonne Wirtzburg in Lorraine at Liege Louvain Brussels Dunkerk Ghent Paris and other places besides the severall Nunneries and withall on the loss that both King and Kingdome suffered thereby when so many of our natives both men and women should be constrained to spend their own Estats and the benevolence of others in a strange Land which amounts
board The Almeshouses are many look more like Princes Palaces then Lodgings for poore people First there are houses for poor Ouldmen Women then a large square Palace for 300 Widdowes then there are Hospitals for Boyes Girles for Burgers Children for strangers Children or those cald Foundtings all these boyes girles have Every sonday other dayes of Worship 2 doites given them by the Fathers of these Houses the which the Children put into the Deacons sack when they gather for the Poore in the Churches Then there is an Hospital for fooles a Bedlam There are Houses where Common Beggers Gamesters frequenters of Taphcuses are Kept hard at work There is also a House called the Rasphouse where petty Theeues such as flash one another with Knives such as beg with cheating devises women with fained great Bellyes men pretending to have been taken by the Turk others that pretend wrack at sea such as beg with a Clapper or a Bell as if they could not speake or heare such as these are kept hard at work Rasping Every day 50 pounds between 2 of them or Else are beaten with a Bulls Pissel if yet thy rebel wont work they are set in a Tub where if they doe not pump the water will swell over their heads Then there is a House where whores are Kept to worke as also disobedient Children who live Idle take no course to maintain themselves likewise Women commonly drinking themselves drunck and scolds Al these sorts of Hospitals Almeshouses are Stately Buildings richly adorned with Pictures their Lodgings very neat cleane In some of the Boyes Girles Hospitals there are 1500 in some 800 in some 500 in a House Then they have Houses where a man or a Woman may have their Dyet washing Lodging for his life giving a small summe of money These are called Brouders houses the Almes Children of this citie are held in such Veneration respect that a man had as good strike a Burgemasters Child as one of them These Children are permitted to travel in any of the Treckscuts freely without money These Hospitals are Governed by Men women as are of an unspotted life reputed to be rich devout pious it is very observable that the Women Governe their Women Hospitals better then the men do theirs yea it is a General observation in this Country that where the Women have the direction of the purse Trade the husband seldom prove Bankrupts it being the propertie of a true borne Hollands-wife presently after marriage to apply her selfe wholly to her Business but I forbear to say any more of the Duch Houswives for feare of displeasing our English Dames not so much addicted at least not so Generally bred up to Industry but to returne to the Acts of Charitie of Amsterdam the which is so Extraordinary that they surpas al other Cittyes in the World for they are dayly houerly giveing to the poore Every House in Amsterdam hath a Box hanging in a Chaine on which is written Think on the Poore so that when any merchant sels Goods they commonly conclude no bargain but more or less is put in the Poores Box These Boxes art Lockt up by the Deacons who once a quarter goe round the Citty take the Money out of the Boxes Then twice a week there are men belonging to the Hospitals that goe round the Citty ring a bell at every House to Know what the Master or mistris of the House will give to the Box who Generally give not less then 2 stivers Then every first Wedensday of the moneth the Deacons in their turne goe round the Citty from House to House to receive what every house Keeper will give to the Poore Then on the week before the Sacrament is given a Minister with an Elder goes round the City to every House where any members of the Presbiterian Religion live there ask if any Differences be in the familie offering their service to reconcile them alsoe to Instruct prepare such as are to receive the Sacrament At this tyme a Minister may be seen to goe into a Taphouse or Taverne for which at another tyme he would be counted a wyne biber the worst of Reprobates At this tyme while these Ministers Elders goe about the City on their Visiations the people take an Occasion to give to the Poore And here I ought not to omit telling you of their great Charitie to the distressed French Prosestants who are here in great Numbers They maintaine no less then 60 French Ministers unto many handicraft Tradesmen and makers of stuffs Cloath they lend sums of Money without Intrest to buy Working Tooles materials for their work but this is no other then they formerly did to the Poore distressed Protestants of Ireland Piemont their Charitie was not a littel that they gave to Geneve towards the building their Fortifications And here give me leave to tell you what King Charles the second said of the Charitie of Amsterdam when the Duke of Lotherdal heareing that the Prince of Oranges Armie was not able to oppose the french from advanting so neare to Amsterdam the Duke Jeareingly said that Oranges would be very scarse in Holland after Amsterdam should fall into the french hands to plunder to which his Majestie said that he was of opinion that God would preserve Amsterdam from being destroyed if it were only for the great charitie they have for the Poore the which put the Duke out of Countenance I will say no more of their Charitie only this that they leave no stone unturned to bring moneyes into the Poores stock they make the stage players pay 80000 Gilders a yeare to the Poore thert is not a Ropedancer puppetplayer or any of that sort of unnecessary Vermin which frequent faires but pay the 3d penny to the Poore which is carefully looked after by placeing an Almesman at the doore of the Booths to see that they cheat not the Poore of their share I shall now in the next place say some thing of the Clergie I meane those called the States Clergie for the States are absolutely head of their Church when any synod of Divines meet two of the States are alwayes present to heare that they debate nothing relating or Reflecting on the Government or Governers if they doe presently the States cry ho la mij● Heeren Predicanten● if their Ministers meddel with any thing relating to the Goverment in their Pulpits they send them a briefe which some call a paire of shooes to quit the City some times Impriprison them to boot but if they behave themselves quietely well as they ought to doe they th●n are respected by the people as Gods upon earth They have a forme of prayer sent them how they shall pray for the States Prince of Orange nor must they meddell with any other Religion in the Country because all sorts are Tollerated
to more money than at first one may imagine and this thought I confess made me wish it were otherwise I would not have the Reader to mistake mee here as if I espoused or pleaded for any particular party No I plead onely for the sentiments of humanity without which our nature degenerates into that of brutes and for the love that every honest man ought to have for his Countrey I am asmuch a friend to the Spanish Inquisition as to the persecuting of tender Conscienced protestants provided there be no more but Conscience in the case and I could heartily wish that Papists and Protestants could live as lovingly together in England as they doe in Holland Germany and other Countries for give mee leave to say it I love not that Religion which in stead of exulting destroys the Principles of morality and humane societie I have met with honest men of all persuasions even Turks and Jews who in their lives and manners have far exceeded many of our Enthusiastick professors at home and when ever this happened I could not forbeare to love the men without embraceing there Religion for which they themselves are to account to their great master and Judge In my progress towards Hanover I touched at Hildersheim a city whose Magistrates are Lutheran though Roman Catholicks have the Cathedrall Church and severall monasteries there The court of Hanover makes another kind of figure than that of Cassels it being the court of a greater Prince who is Bishop of Osnaburg duke of Brunswick Lunenburg Hanover c. Here I had the honour to kiss the hands of the Princess Royall Sophia youngest sister to the late Prince Rupert Her highness has the character of the Merry debonnaire Princess of Germany a lady of extraordinary virtue and accomplishments and mistriss of the Italian French High and low dutch and English languages which she speaks to perfection Her husband has the title of the Gentlemen of Germany a gracefull and comely Prince both a foot and on horseback civill to strongers beyond compare infinitely Kind and beneficent to people in distress and known in the world for a valiant and experienced Soldier I had the honour to see his troops which without controversic are as good men and commanded by as expert Officers as any are in Europe Amongst his Officers I found brave Steel-hand Gordon Collonel of an Excellent Regiment of horse Grimes Hamilton Talbot and others of our Kings subjects God hath blest the Prince with a numerous offspring having six sons all galant Princes of whom the two eldest signalized themselves so bravely at the raising of the siege of Vienna that as an undoubted proofe of their valour they brought three Turks home to this court prisoners His Eldest son is married to a most beautifull Princess sole heiress of the duke of Lunenbourg and Zell his elder brother as the lovely Princess his daughter is lately married to the Electorall Prince of Brandenbourg He is a gracious Prince to his people and keeps a very splendid court having in his stables for the use of himself and children no less than fifty two sets of coach horses he himself is Lutheran but as his subjects are Christians of different persuasions nay and some of them Jews too so both in his court and army he entertains Gentlemen of various opinions and Countries as Italian abbots and Gentlemen that serve him and many Calvinist French Officers neither is he so bigotted in his Religion but that he and his Children goe many times to Church with the Princess who is a Calvinist and joine with her in her devotion His Countrey is good having gold and silver mines in it and his subjects live well under him as doe those also of his brother the duke of Lunenbourg and their Cozen the duke of Wolfembottel which are the three Princes of the house of Lunenbourg of whom it may be said that they have alwayes stuck honestly to the right side and befriended the interests of the Empire so that no by respect neither honour nor profit could ever prevail with them as it has with others to make them abandon the publick concern From this Princes court I went to Zell the residence of the duke the elder brother of the familie This Prince is called the mighty Nimrod becaus of the great delight he takes in horses dogs and hunting He did mee the honour to let mee she his stables wherein he keeps 370 horses most of them English or of English breed His dogs which are also English are so many that with great care they are quartered in severall apartments according to their Kind and qualities there being a large office like a brewhouse employed for boyling of malt and Corn for them It is this valiant Prince who tooke Tieves from the French and made the Mareshall do Crequi prisoner he is extreamely obliging to strangers and hath severall brave Scottish Officers under his pay as Major General Erskin Graham Goloman Hamilton Melvin and others His Lieutenant General is one Chavot a Protestant of Alsatia an excellent and experienced commander who did mee the honour to treat mee three days at his house where with all his Scottish and English Officers whom he had invited wee liberally drank to the health of our present King having as he told us served under his Majestie when duke of York both in France and Flanders where he gained the reputation both for skill and conduct in the wars not onely from Mareshall Turin a competent Judge but also from all other General Persons who had the honour to know him that fame hath made better know'n in the world than the encomium which that generous Gentleman ingenuously gave and which heere I spare to relate I shall adde no more concerning this Prince his Officers or Countrey but that he with the other two Princes of the house of Lunenbourg Hanover and Wolfenbottel can upon occasion bring into the field 36000 Soldiers whom they keep in constant pay and such men as I never saw better in my life After some stay at the Court of the duke of Zell I went to Hambourg a famous Hansiatick town It is a republick and city of great trade occasioned partly by the English Company of Merchant adventures but much more by the dutch Protestants who in the time of the Duke of Alba forsook the low Countries and seltled here and the Protestants also who were turned out of Cologne and other places in Germany who nevertheless are not now allowed publick Churches within the citie but at a place called Altena a village belonging to the King of Denmark a quarter of an houres walk distant from Hambourg This Commonwealth is Lutheran and governed by four Burgemasters twenty four Radtsheres and a common Council of all the Burghers who have above 40 schellings per annum free hold The symbole or Motto under their Armes is da pacem domine in diebus nostris and in their Standart are these letters S. P. Q. H. The