cases of the Stones lye not horizontally but rather elevated Northward about the height of the Angle forty yet are not always so regularly placed but rather follow the shape of the Hill and according to that are differently situated Here I also observed a Substance between a Clay and a Stone called Leberstein or Liverstone and upon many of these Stones I found the figures of Trees and Leaves though not so deep or neat as upon the Stones by Florence yet very prettily marked and often with broader Leaves than I had elsewhere observed I passed forward to Closter-Neuburg a Town most of it belonging to that notable rich Monastery seated here founded by St. Leopoldus Marquess of Austria and since much enriched by succeeding Donations Matthaeus Merian hath a goodcut of the Prospect of the Danube here abouts and in what manner it passeth downwards between the two great Hills of Kalenburg and Bisnburg Upon one Peak of Kalenburg live divers Camaldulenses of an Order the most severe of any living most upon Roots and Herbs in the manner of Hermites Near their Cells they had paved the ground with those Stones I mentioned which were naturally marked with the shapes of Trees and Plants After an open Autumn there followed a sharp Winter at Vienna in the months of December and January The branches of the Danube were soon frozen over The main Stream by reason of its swift Current held out longer but was afterwards also frozen Some have thought that this River is more apt to freez than others And we read of Battels which have been fought upon this River frozen but I could not make any regular Observation thereof This hard weather the ground being covered with Snow afforded handsome Recreations unto men and some unto the Ladies in running Courses in handsome Sleds and Devices upon the Snow Their Sleds were well contrived in the shape of Gryphins Tigers Swans Scallop Shells Dolphins Peacocks and the like Curiosities carved painted and gilded The Lady sits in one of these richly habited in Velvet lined with rich Furrs set off with Lace and Jewels in a Velvet Cap lined with Sables The Sled is drawn by a Horse dressed up with Feathers of all colours and Bells hanging about him a pair of Stags horns behind his head Ribbons and other Ornaments one or more Pages ride by on Horse-back with Torches in their hands And after this manner they perform their Course upon the frozen Snow about the streets of Vienna in the night with good speed one after another A Gentleman sits behind the Lady and guides the Horse But the Frost breaking up put an end to these Recreations The Frost began and ended here the same day that it began and ended in England The Festivity of Christmas was observed much after the same Manner Ceremonies and Solemnities as in Italy On Christmas-day the Emperour dined publickly attended with many Nobles and great Persons and three remarkable low Dwarfs Upon St. Stephens-day he went to the Cathedral of St. Stephen and went up to the Altar kneeled and kissed the Plate whereon the Hostia had lain At the Epiphany or Twelfth-tide the old custome of choosing King and Queen was observed at Court Count Lesley happened to be King the Emperour laid the Cloath and the Empress filled out Wine together with other old Customes Before Christmas there was extraordinary mirth and jollity at the Court upon occasion of a Marriage For Count Serau Governour of Gratz in Styria married a natural Daughter of Philip the Fourth King of Spain which was observed with many noble Solemnities and Bravery And the Nobility and Ladies were so substantially splendid that I was much surprised thereat This was followed by a Funeral Solemnity for the Count of Draun who was Colonel of the Forces in Vienna and who had one of the noblest Houses in the City his Corps was brought out of Italy and interred in the Dominican Church where he formerly built a very fair Altar there was raised for him a Castrum Doloris handsomely contrived and set round with white Wax Torches and Candles While I was in Vienna the Empress Margarita was delivered of a Daughter which was Christned by the Name of Maria Antonina Josepha Benedicta Rosalia Petronella but she lived not many months When the Empress came abroad she brought the Child to the Augustines Church where Cardinal Carlo Caraffa the Pope's Nuncio received it blessed it and laid it upon the Altar During my stay here the Election was in readiness for a King of Poland after the voluntary resignation of that Crown by King Casimir and Couriers often passed between that Country and this There were Competitors the Czar of Muscovy's Son the Duke of Newburg and the Prince of Lorrain The French moved actively for the Duke of Newburg the Emperour for the Prince of Lorrain who was then at Vienna in great favour with the Emperour who greatly promoted his interest a Person of great esteem and who if General Lubomirski had been living who was his intimate Friend in all probability might have obtained the Crown and thereupon it was conceived that he should have married the Emperour's Sister But the Poles made choice of one of their own Country who was no Competitor Michael Wisnowitski lately deceased who also married the Sister of the Emperour When I was here there were many Ambassadours of Note Don Balthasar de la Cueva Marquiss of Malagon and brother to the Viceroy of Naples was Ambassadour for Spain Cardinal Carlo Caraffa was the Pope's Nuncio The Venetian Ambassadour Extraordinary solicited for assistance for Candia and he obtained the Regiment of Porcia under Marquiss Pio. Count Souches the younger who was Governour of Leopoldstadt and many noble and valiant Souldiers were preparing for that Expedition The Turks gave assurance of the Grand Signor's intention to maintain the Peace inviolably and requested the Emperour not to assist the Venetians or Transilvanians nor to promote but rather hinder the Election of the Emperour of Muscovy's Son to the Crown of Poland The Bishop of Beziers sent by the King of France to the Election of the King of Poland came not hither but passed through Nurenburg where I lodged at the same Inn They were generally here against the French Interest and so were a great part of the Polish Nobility An Ambassadour came also from the Cham of Tartary to confirm a Peace and afford mutual Assistance upon occasion Cha Gagi Aga was the Ambassadour who brought a Present of the best Tartarian Horses which are of high esteem for swiftness hardiness boldness in passing frozen Rivers and taking and swimming over great Streams He was dismissed with noble Presents of Plate The Emperour presented the Cham of Tartary with a fair Silver Bason and Ewer and a curious Watch and sent Presents unto the Chammine his Wife and also to his Sister and four Brothers His Followers were stout men of good stature course Complexions wearing long furr'd Vests and Calpack's or furr'd Caps Some of
Correspondence and printed their Observations at Leipsick And since my Return into England I have been solicited from Cassovia in Upper Hungary to send the Transactions into those Parts During my stay at Vienna I went unto a publick Anato my of a Woman that was beheaded the Lecture lasted so long that the Body was Nineteen days unburied It was performed by a Learned Physician Dr. Wolfstregel who read in Latin to the satisfaction of all persons What I most particularly observed therein was this The Pyramidal Muscles very plain and large the Uterus larger than is usually observed the Cartilago Ensiformis double the Lungs very black the Eye was very well shown he produced an artificial Eye of Ivory and another large one of Pastboard and Paper contrived and made by himself the Muscles of the Pharynx Larynx Os Hyoides and the Tongue after their dissection he reduced very handsomely into their proper places again to shew their natural situation and position The Anatomy-Theatre was of capacity to receive above an hundred persons and according to the custome of other places to avoid impertinent Spectators a piece of Mony was given for admission Of Anatomy-Theatres until of late there have been few in Germany or none And when I was in the Anatomy-School at Altorff near Nurenburg that learned and civil Professor Dr. Mauritius Hoffmannus told me that the same was the First in Germany Paulus de Sorbait Prime Professor Physician unto Eleonora the Empress Dowager and Knight of Hungary was the Rector Magnificus Zwelfer who writ Animadversions upon the Dispensatory of Ausburg was in great repute in Vienna and had built for himself a noble House in the City but he died some time before my coming thither In fine the University is noble their Advancements considerable their Priviledges great and they have the power of life and death from ancient and latter Concessions of their Dukes and Emperours But the greatest lustre unto Vienna is the Residence of the present Emperour Leopoldus he was born in the year 1638. he was Son unto the Emperour Ferdinand the Third he was baptized by the Names of Leopoldus Ignatius Franciscus Balthazar Josephus Felicianus His eldest Brother Ferdinand King of the Romans died of the Small Pox in his Fathers time His Brother Carolus Josephus Master of the Teutonick Order dyed 1662. He married Margareta Infanta of Spain daughter unto King Philip the Fourth whose Children died Infants a vertuous affable grave and worthy Prince and seemed to me to live very happily here in the love and honour of his People Souldiers and Clergy His Person is grave and graceful he hath the Austrian Lip remarkably his Chin long which is taken for a good Physiognomical mark and a sign of a constant placid and little troubled mind He is conceived to carry in his Face the lineaments of four of his Predecessours that is of Rudolphus the First of Maximilian the First of Charles the Fifth and Ferdinand the First He was very affectionate unto his Empress who though but young was a modest grave Princess had a good aspect was zealous in her Religion and an Enemy unto the Jews He shewed also great respect and observance unto the Empress Dowager Eleonora who was a sober and prudent Princess well skilled in all kind of curious Works and delighted sometimes to shoot at Deer from a Stand or at other Game out of her Coach He was also very loving unto his Sisters beautiful and good Ladies whereof one the eldest was since married unto that Noble Prince Michael Wisnowitzski King of Poland He speaks four Languages German Italian Spanish and Latin He is a great countenancer of Learned Men and delighteth to read and when occasion permitteth will pass some hours at it The worthy Petrus Lambecius his Library Keeper and who is in great esteem with him will usually find out some Books for him which he conceiveth may be acceptable While I was there he recommended a Translation of Religio Medici unto him wherewith the Emperour was exceedingly pleased and spake very much of it unto Lambecius insomuch that Lambecius asked me whether I knew the Author he being of my own name and whether he were living And when he understood my near Relation to him he became more kind and courteous than ever and desired me to send him that Book in the Original English which he would put into the Emperours Library and presented me with a neat little Latin Book called Princeps in Compendio written by the Emperours Father Ferdinandus the Third He is also skilful in Musick composeth well and delighted much in it both at his Palace and the Church which makes so many Musicians in Vienna for no place abounds more with them and in the Evening we seldom failed of Musick in the Streets and at our Windows And the Emperours delight herein makes the Church-men take the greater care to set off their Church-musick for he goeth often to Church and not to one but divers especially the best Conventual Churches and in his own Chappel some of his own Compositions are often play'd He hath also excellent Musick in his Palace both Vocal and Instrumental and his private Chappel is well served where besides the excellent Musick there are always eight or ten Counts Pages to the Emperour who serve at the Altar with white wax Torches in their hands and after the manner of the Italian Princes divers Eunuchs to sing For his Recreations abroad he delighteth much in Hunting especially of the wild Boar in due seasons I have known him bring home six Boars in a morning Some stout persons particularly Count Nicholas Serini would encounter a wild Boar alone but at last he unfortunately perished by one which hath made others more wary since and therefore when the Boar is at a Bay the Huntsmen so stand about him that the Emperour or other great persons may more safely make use of their Boar-spears upon him Surely there are great numbers of them about the Country for they are no unusual or extraordinary Dish in the City though of a delicious and pleasing taste They feed upon Acorns Beech-mast and Chesnuts upon the spring or sprout of Broom Juniper and Shrubs and upon the roots of Fern and will range into Corn-fields and come out of Forrests into Vineyards The Huntsmen are notably versed and skilful in that Game for though they see it not they will distinguish a wild from a common Swine and ghess whether that which they hunt be Male or Female old or young large or small fat or lean and this they chiefly conjecture from their tread or foot and the casting their hindfeet out of the track of their forefeet The Emperour being so good a Huntsman it is the less wonder that he is esteemed a good Horsman Certain it is that he hath a very noble Stable of Horses procured from all parts Turkish Tartarian Polonian Transylvanian Saxon Bohemian Hungarian Naples c. and they are well managed and they ride them
curiosities in this City carrying me with him in his Coach The Walls of Antwerp are very large faced with Brick and freestone having divrs rows of Trees upon them broad walks and conveniences for the Coaches to make their tour upon The Bastions are not so large as generally they build now a dayes yet after the modern way The Ditch is very broad and deep the Country about it all Gardens The Cittadel is a regular fortification of five Bastions wherein lies alwayes a Garrison of Spanish Soldiers upon every curtain there are two mounts or Cavaliers and between them below a row of building or lodgings for the Soldiers the ears of the Bastions are cut down and Casamates made and Palisados set round upon the Esplanade the Walls are lined with excellent Brick and stone nor is there any where a more regular beautifull Fortification of five Bastions that is finished it commands the City the River and the Country besides this Cittadel there is another Fort within the Town near the Scheld to command the River having eight Guns in it called St. Laurence Fort. The Exchange is handsome supported by 36 Pillars every one of a different carving four streets lead unto it so that standing in the middle we see through every one of them The Meer or Largest street is considerable for the water running under it and for the meeting of Coaches upon it every evening to make their tour through the streets of the City which are clean and beautiful at one end of it stands a large Brass Crucifix upon a Pedestall of Marble The Jesuites Church goeth far beyond any of that bigness that I have seen out of Italy The Front is noble with the Statua of Ignatius Loyola on the top A great part of the inside of the Roof was painted by Rubens and some of it by Van Dyke there be many Excellent peeces of flowers done by Segers a Iesuite the Carving and gilding of all the works is exquisite The Library of the Colledge is great the Books disposed handsomely into four Chambers the Founder hereof was Godfridus Houtappel whose Monument together with his Wife and Children are worth the seeing in a Chappel on the South side of this Church In the Church of the Carmelites is a large Silver Statua of our Lady and models of Cityes in stone Onsar Lieven Vrowen Kerck or the Church of our blessed Lady is the greatest in the City and the Steeple one of the fairest in the World five hundred foot high one of their feet is eleven of our inches so as it is 459 of our feet In this Church there is much Carving and a great number of Pictures highly esteemed among which one piece is much taken notice of drawn by Quintin at first a Smith who made the neat Iron work of the Well before the West door and afterwards to obtain his Mistress he proved a famous Painter his head is set up in Stone at the entrance of the Church with an inscription and this verse Connubialis amor de Mulcibre fecit Apellem I was at the famous Abby of St. Michael pleasantly seated upon the Scheld where among other curiosities I saw a glass which represented the Pictures of our Saviour and the Virgin Mary collected from the Putting together of divers other heads One was represented from a Picture wherein were thirteen faces and another from one of twelve over the blessed Virgin was this Inscription Diva nitet variis expressa Maria Figuris The Countess of Brabants Tombe who was drowned and her Statua as also the Monument of Ortelius are here shewn Macarius Simoneus was then Abbot the Monks 63. Near unto the Wharf-gate is the Church of St. Walburgis an English Saint who contributed much towards the conversion of these Countries The Town-house is fair the House built for the East-country Merchants is very stately and large but runneth now to ruine in this I saw among other curiosities divers strange Musical instruments which at present are not understood or at least not made use of The Hessen house hath been also formerly considerable The water which they make use of in Brewing is brought by an Aqueduct from Herentall about thirty miles distant from hence and is conveyed into the Town by a large Channel peculiarly walled in by it self where it passeth the Ditch in this City are many good Collections of Pictures both Ancient and Modern and excellent Miniature or Limning by Gonsol one fine piece which I saw was peculiarly remarkable it being the work of 35 several Masters From Antwerp I passed to Brussels by water changing Boats five times and going through divers locks by reason that the Country is so much higher about Brussels and the water above two hundred foot lower at Antwerp At Fontaine a league and half from Brussels three Rivers cross one another one of them being carried over a bridg The Piazza of Brussels is fair and oblong in figure upon one of the longest sides stands the Town-house and over against it the Kings-house where upon a Scaffold hanged with Velvet Count Fgmond and Horne were beheaded the whole Piazza being hanged with Black Cloth Upon the top of the Town-house stand St. Michael the Patron of the City in Brass Count Marsins house formerly belonging to the Prince of Orange hath a fair Court and overlooks a good part of the City but a quarter of it is ruined by Lightning The Thunder bolt or Stone which they affirm to have effected it is bigger than two Mens heads and hangs up upon the door at the entrance The Iesuites Church is handsome and in it the fair white Tower is beautifully gilded at the top The Carmelites Church hath a noble Altar and near unto the Church is the Statua of a pissing boy which is a continual Conduit The Armory was well furnished as we were informed before the Governours of the low Countries sold the Arms and Cassel Roderigo the Governour left it very bare There remains the Armour of Charls the fifth of Duke Albert of the Prince of Parma Ernestus and of the Duke d'Alva and of the Duke Alberts horse who being shot saved his Master and died the same day twelve month Spears for the hunting the wild Boar one with two Pistols The Armour of Cardinal Infante and of an Indian King A Polish musket which carrieth six hundred paces Charles the Fifth's Sword for the making the Knights of the Golden Fleece and Henry the Fourth's Sword sent to declare war Good Bucklers for Defence and some well wrought especially one with the Battel of Pyrrhus and his Elephants and Banners taken with Francis King of France at the Battel of Pavia Somewhat like Godfrey of Bouillons shooting the three Pigeons near the Tower of David is the shot which Infanta Isabella made when with an Arrow she killed a Bird in memory whereof a Bird pierced with an Arrow is set upon the top of a Tower in the Count which is large and if the New Buildings
a House anciently belonging unto the Knights of the Teutonick Order which hath the priviledge of a Sanctuary for Man-slayers and Bankrupts but it is a security but for fourteen days Upon this side there is the largest portion of Land belonging to Franckfort on the other side very little This being a trading place it is no wonder that there are so many Jews in it for a distinction they wear great Ruffs their Sons Bonnets and their Wives a peculiar dress of their Head The Collegiate Church of St. Bartholomew where many of the Emperours have been crowned is large hath a high Steeple and is built of a red stone There are divers handsome Fountains in the Town and good Houses in one of the best of which liveth Monsieur Pierre Neufville a great Merchant and a civil worthy person well known in most places of Commerce who obliged me with Letters to Venice and other places From Franckfort I continued my Journey through the Bergstraes passing by Darmstadt which belongs to one of the Brothers of the House of Hessen commonly known by the name of the Landtgrave of Hessen Darmstadt and afterwards through a fruitful plain Country in the sight of Hills and sometimes near them the whole Country planted with Wallnut-trees Vines Corn and in some places with Tobacco till I arrived at Heidelberg In coming into this Town we passed over the River Neccar Nicer or Necarus upon a Bridge covered over from one end to another with a large Roof of Wood in the same manner is the long Bridge covered at the entrance of the City of Alessandria della paglia in Italy The River Neccar ariseth near the Sylva Martiana now Swartzwald or Black Forest and passing through the Territories of the Duke of Wittenberg runneth into the Rhine at Manheim This though none of the greatest yet is a considerable River of Germany and hath divers good Towns upon it and near it as Sultz Tubingen Wirtingen Essingen Stutgard Canstat Lauffen Hallbrun Heidelberg There being wars at that time when I was in this Country between the Elector Palatine and the Duke of Lorain The Elector resided for the most part at Frankendale to be near his Forces Heidelberg is seated on the South-side of the River Neccar between it and a ridge of high Hills so as it cannot well admit of a modern Fortification or hope to be extraordinary strong as being over-looked by the adjacent Mountains It lieth most at length from East to West It hath been an University since the year 1346. at which time it was begun by Rupertus Count Palatine and at present is much frequented In the great Church was kept the famous Library which after that the Spaniards had taken this Town 1620. was carried to Rome and added to the Vatican where I saw it in the year 1664. being placed upon one side of a very long Gallery belonging to the Vatican Library and the Duke of Urbin's Library placed on the otherside over-against it both which made a notable addition to the Papal Library In this Church and the Church also of St. Peter are divers Monuments of Princes of the Palatine Family and of Learned and Famous Men. The French have a Church here and the present Elector is of the Order of the Holy Ghost and his Son a Mareschal of France and good French and High-dutch are both generally spoken here The Lutherans have also a Church in this Town by the favour of the present Elector although he himself be a Calvinist and to express his generous kindness the higher in this point the first Stone was laid by himself and his Son and it is called the Church of Providence according to the Elector's Motto Dominus Providebit Upon the Town-house is a Clock with divers Motions and when the Clock strikes the figure of an Old man pulls off his hat a Cock crows and shakes his wings Souldiers fight with one another and the like The Prince's Stables for above a hundred Horses are seated upon the River very conveniently but were fairer formerly above half thereof having been ruined by the Imperialists as also divers of the Statues on the outside of the Castle which is seated high above the Town The present Elector is Carolus Ludovicus Son to the King of Bohemia Frederick the Fifth he was born in the year 1617. and passed his Youth an Exile from his Fathers Kingdom and Electorate and at the pacification at Prague 1635. he was excluded from any restitution to be made to him But at length in the Treaty of Munster 1648. he was restored to the lower Palatinate and 1652. returned to the possession of his Fortunes a highly accomplished Prince much honoured and beloved by his Subjects In the year 1650. he married Charlotta Daughter to William the Fifth Landgrave and to the famous Amelia Elizabeth Landgravess of Hassia by whom he had the Chur Prince or Electoral Prince Charles and a Daughter the Princess Charlotta Elizabetha but upon some discontent the Princess Electress since returned to her own Friends and Country This Elector is also Knight of the most Noble Order of the Garter Great Treasurer of the Empire and together with the Elector of Saxony Vicar of the Empire In his Palace or Castle at Heidelberg are divers things remarkable a very great Tower to be equalled by very few within which is a Theatre for Comedies This was formerly called Trutzkaisar or the Tower that bad Defiance or threatned the Emperor but since the Restauration of the Elector there are some Works drawn about it in the figure of a Star and the old disobliging Name is by Proclamation forbidden to be continued and it is at present called the Sternschanz or the Star-fort By it is a handsome Garden in the Ditch whereof there was then kept a great Bear and a very large Wolf The Grotto's and Water-works are very handsome they were also making divers others having the advantage of the side of the Hill to bring down the water and to make Grots and Caves in the Rock Amongst other Fountains that of the Lions head with a Frog in his Ear is taken notice of The Cellars are very large and cool filled with Vessels of no ordinary size yet inconsiderable if compared to the great Tun kept in a great Building joyning to the Cellars it was built by this present Elector's Order 1664. and goeth far beyond any made before It contains 204 Faiders and odd measure or about two hundred Tuns instead of Hoops it is built with large knee Timber like the ribs of a Ship which are painted and carved and have divers Inscriptions upon them and supported by carved Pedistals Upon one side of it is a handsome Staircase to ascend to the top of the Vessel upon the top of which is a Gallery set round with Ballisters three and forty steps high from the ground About an English mile from Heidelberg between the Hills is a solitary place where three large Streams or Springs gush out of the
to the satisfaction of the Beholders Having seen the Arsenal at Venice the Stores at Chatham and the Naval Provisions at Amsterdam I am not like to admire any other especially so far from the Sea and looked for nothing of that nature in this place Notwithstanding I found an Arsenal and place for Naval Vessels to be set out upon occasion and some thereof were employed in the last Turkish war when they attempted to destroy the Bridge of Boats which the Turks had made over the Danube a little above Gran and Barehan They are built somewhat like Galleys carry great Guns and a good number of Souldiers and will make a sight upon the broad deep stream of the Danube and may be handsomely brought into the Town behind one of the Bastions when the River is high and hereof there are some at Rab and Komora as I have declared elsewhere The Emperour hath many Counsellors great Souldiers and Courtiers about him among which these seemed of greatest Note Eusebius Wenceslaus Duke de Sagan Prince Lobkowitz Pirme Counsellor Hoff-meister of the Order of the Golden Fleece a person of a grave and sober Aspect somewhat blunt in conversation but of a generous temper and free from all covetousness who spent his Revenues nobly and unto his great reputation He was chief Favorite unto the Emperour and though some had no great opinion of his Abilities yet he was the first that discovered the last Hungarian defection and revolt whereby those Noble Persons Count Peter Serini and Nadasti whom I saw at Vienna were brought unto their ends Henricus Gulielmus Count of Stahrenberg Ober-hoff-Mareschal or Lord Marshal of the Court. Johannes Maximilianus Count of Lamburg Oberst-Kammer-Herr or Chief of the Chamber a Person of great esteem The Gentlemen of the Bed-chamber are numerous and many are in extraordinary there may be an hundred of them all Barons and Counts Every one of them wears a Golden Key before his Breast and the Grooms of the Bed-chamber wear one of Steel Two of each attend every Night Gundakerus Count Dietrichstein Oberst-Stall-Meister or Chief Master of the Horse These are the Chief These following are also considerable Count Sinzendorff Oberste-Jag-Meister Grand Veneur or Hunts-Master a Person in good favour with the Emperour who very much delighteth in Hunting as have most of his Predecessors The Count of Aversberg Oberst Falken-Meister Chief Falconer who hath twelve Falconers under him The Count of Paar Chief Master of the Emperours Post Leopoldus Wilhelmus Marquiss of Baden Captain of an hundred Hartshires who are the Horse-guard and ride with Pistols and Carabines out of the City but within Vienna they cary Launces and Javelins with broad points Franciscus Augustinus Count of Wallensteyn Captain of an hundred of the Foot-guard of a good Personage and well esteemed of by the Emperour Sixty or more Pages for the number is uncertain and not limited most of them Counts and Barons Raymundus Count de Montecuculi was his General President of the Council of War Governour of Rab and the Confines about it and of the Order of the Golden Fleece a tall Person somewhat lean but hath a spirit in his look he is one of the oldest Commanders in Europe and performed good Service in Poland Hungary Germany in many places and is esteemed a prudent valiant and successful Commander The Count de Souches was also a Commander of great Fame and in high esteem with the Emperour He was a Native of Rochelle he first served the Swedes in the German wars and was a Colonel but upon some disgust he forsook the Swedes and served the Imperialists and was made Governour of Brin the second Town in Moravia After the taking of Crembs in Austria General Torstenson besieged Brin and sent word unto the Governour de Souches That if he refused to deliver up the Town he would give him no quarter Who answered him That he would not ask any and also give none and defended the place with such resolution that after many Assaults Underminings and Attempts by Granado's Torstenson was forced to rise after a Siege of four months which was so advantagious unto Austria and the Imperial affairs that the Emperour took especial notice of him made him a Baron and of his Privy Council He commanded also all the Forces in Vienna and did notable Service in the last Turkish wars He took the City of Nitra or Nitria not far from Strigonium or Gran and took and slew six thousand Turks which were sent by the Vizier of Buda against him a worthy Person and of a good Aspect Count Souches the younger his Son an Heroick Commander is Governour of the strong fortified place Leopoldstadt by Freistadt a Person of great Civility unto whom I was much obliged Count Lesly Nephew unto Count Lesly who was sent Ambassadour to Constantinople to the Sultan from the Emperour is a Commander worthy of that esteem he hath with the Emperour a Person of great Courage Civility and Humanity which I must ever acknowledge The Courts of the Empress and of the Empress Dowager are filled with Persons of Note and there are a great number of Souldiers in this place of great Fame as the Marquiss Pio Spork Cops and many more Many of the Clergy and Men of Learning are in good esteem with the Emperour but the Jesuites Milner and Boccabella are his near Favorites Many Strangers both Souldiers and Scholars have built their Fortunes here And surely Strangers of parts and industry so they be of the Roman Church are not like to raise their Fortunes any where better than in these parts Though the Emperour goeth not to war in Person yet hath he been successful in his wars especially in the last Battel with the Turks at St. Godart where the business was handsomly and actively managed to set upon the body of the Turks which had passed the River Rab before the whole Forces of the Vizier could come over to the great slaughter of the Janisaries and Turks who fought stoutly and were first put to a Retreat by the French Cavalry For at first the Turks seemed to prevail and had slain a great part of two Regiments of the Auxiliaries which came out of Franconia and after their custome had cut off their Heads Among the many notable things in Vienna the Imperial Library is very remarkable He who hath seen the Bodleian Library at Oxford and the Vatican at Rome would be much surprised to find such a notable one here as may compare with them especially upon the extreme Borders of the Learned part of Europe The number and nobleness of the Books doth much exceed the receptacle or place which containeth them as making no fair shew at the entrance and somewhat wanting light But as for the number and value of the Books they are of opinion here that it yieldeth unto none but rather excelleth any other Library in Europe There was a place designed for the building of a fit receptacle for them but I know not
General unto the Emperour Ferdinand the Second who being suspected to Usurp that Kingdom was afterwards killed at Egra This Palace was built upon the Ruins of an hundred Houses purposely plucked down to make room for it wherein the Hall is large the Garden handsome upon one side whereof there is a place to manage Horses and near unto it a Fish-pond in another part there is a noble Aviary with a Garden and Trees in it after the manner of the Aviary of Prince Doria at Genoa which is eighty paces long and eighteen broad The Stable is large and worth the seeing wherein there is a Marble Pillar between each Horse and for every Horse there is placed in a nich of the Wall a Rack of Steel and Manger of Marble and over his Head hangeth a Picture of the Horse as big as the Life with his Name under it Among the rest I observed that a Bay-horse had for his Name Monte d'Oro a Mare Bella donna another Espagnoletta and his most beloved Horse was named Mas Querido Some have thought that the best high German is spoken in this part of Prague and there living so many of the Nobility and great Persons it is not to be wondred at that their Language is better than ordinary But the common Language of Bohemia is a Dialect of the Sclavonian though very many speak also High dutch as we found in all our passage through that Country Koningsmark being with his Forces on the Frontiers of Bohemia a discontented Colonel of the Imperialists came unto him making it probable that he might surprize Hratschin and the lesser side of Prague which he suddainly attempted and so successfully that he surprized many Officers and old Colaredo in his Bed getting so great a Booty that he could scarce carry it away A part of Prague is inhabited by Jews and called the Jews Town there are no small number of them and many rich as trading in all Commodities and have good skill in Jewels and several sorts of Stones digged out of the Mines in Bohemia I bought some Bohemian Topazes of them neatly cut and well-figured and some which were very large and clear were at the rate of seven or eight Dollars During my stay here I had a great desire to have saluted Johannes Marcus-Marci a famous Physician and Philosopher of Prague and also to have induced him to a Correspondence with the Royal Society but I understood that he had left this World to the great grief of Learned Men in these and other parts Many here do speak still of John Hus and Jerome of Prague and I have seen Silver Medals of them They were surely very notable men and I shall only set down what Aeneas Sylvius or Pope Pius the Second said of them Johannes aetate major authoritate doctrinâ facundiâ superior Hieronymus pertulerunt ambo constanti animo necem quasi ad Epulum invitati ad incendium properarunt nullam emittentes vocem quae miseri animi posset ferre indicium ubi ardere ceperunt hymnum cecinere quem vix flamma fragor ignis intercipere potuit nemo Philosophorum tam forti animo mortem pertulisse traditur quam isti incendium In Hist Bohemica John was or greater years and authority Jerome of more Eloquence and Learning both of them endured their Death with great constancy and went unto the fire as though invited to a Banquet when they began to burn they sung an Hymn which the flame and fire could scarce intercept None of the old Philosophers endured their death with such a courageous mind as these the fire The same Author compareth Prague unto the City of Florence in Tuscany wherefore having seen both places I cannot omit to say something I had a view of the City of Florence from the top of the Domo or Cathedral and of Prague from the Church of St. Veit upon the Hill in the lesser Town Prague seemed to my eye to contain a far greater Circuit than Florence it seemed also more populous and to exceed it very much in the number of People the Streets larger and the Windows of Palaces and fair Houses being of Glass looked not so tatterdly as the ragged Paper Windows of Florence The River Arno which runs through Florence is not to be compared with the Muldau at Prague having run about an hundred miles from its Head The large massy long Stone-Bridge exceedeth any of if not all the four Bridges of Florence The Emperours Palace also upon the Hill is very stately But as for the well-paved Streets of Florence the Domo or Cathedral with black and white Marble with a Cupola second only to that of St. Peters of Rome for the incomparable Chappel of St. Laurence and the Dukes Gallery and Rarities I must confess I saw not any thing in Prague which answered them At Weissenberg or the white Hill near Prague that deciding Battel was fought Novemb. 8. 1620. between Frederick Prince Palatine of the Rhine elected King of Bohemia and the Forces of the Emperour Ferdinand the Second which gave such a deep blow unto the Protestant Party wherein so many of Frederick's Forces were slain and drowned in the River in their slight wherein also that famous Commander Papenheim was found lying among the dead who notwithstanding died not of his wounds but was reserved to end his days with the King of Sweden in the memorable Battel of Lutzen From Prague I designed to pass by water down the Muldaw which uniteth with the Elbe about Melnick and so down the Elbe unto Hamburg But the Winter advancing and the Weather proving cold the Boats did not go as in Summer and therefore I took my Journey by Land and leaving Prague and the Muldau on the right hand I passed the first day to Zagethal the next to Weluerne and so to Budin and Labasitz upon the Elbe Having passed over the Egra a considerable River arising not far from the City of Egra and at last running into the Elbe the next day by the Castle of Kriegstein or Warrestone seated upon a high steep Rock I came to Ausig a small City not far from the Elbe having little remarkable in it like many other small Cities of Bohemia and so forward to Nolndorff where we lodged upon Mount Kninsberg the day after we entred into Misnia passing by Peterswald and Hellendorff the first Village in Misnia and Kisibel where are Iron Mines about eighteen Fathoms deep and Iron works We now understood that Bohemia was a larger Country than we expected it lieth round and some say it is three days postage over others that the Diameter extendeth two hundred miles From Igla upon the Confines unto Hellendorff it took me nine days Journey in November by Coach not reckoning the time I staid at Prague In many places there are very ill Passages and so rudely mended with great Trees laid side by side that they are often very troublesome to pass We travelled afterwards towards Dresden
Furnace where the Litharge is driven off agreeth better with the Figure of it in Agricola than those of Hungary some of the Litharge is green Their Buck-work and their Engines which pound the Ore the Coal and Clay are also very neat Much of their Ore is washed especially the poorest and that which is mixed with stones quarts or sparrs This is peculiar in their working that they burn the pounded and washed Ore in the Roasthearth before they melt it in the Smeltzoven or melting Furnace At these Mines of Hungary where I was they used not the Virgula divina or forked Hazel to find out Silver Ore or hidden Treasure in the Earth and I should little depend thereon but here they have an esteem of it And I observed the use thereof and the manner how they did it But I shall omit the Description of it because it is set down in divers Books and it cannot be so well described as shown to the Eye I saw also another Mine called Auff der Halsbrucker about eighty of our Fathoms deep and much worked They have divers sorts of Ore but they contain either Silver and Copper Silver and Lead or all three but they work them only for Silver They have divers damps in these Mines where it is deep The Mines are cold where the outward Air comes in but where not warm The greatest trouble they have is by dust which spoileth their Lungs and Stomachs and frets their Skins But they are not so much troubled with water and have very good Engins to draw the water out The Sulphur or Brimstone Ore which is found here is also rich it is hard and stony as other Ores are that which hath red spots is accounted the best They use a peculiar Furnace to melt the Brimstone from the Ore some whereof yieldeth three pounds of Sulphur out of an hundred weight of Ore which as it melteth runneth out of the Furnace into water or the Exhalations from the Ore near or in the Fire are condensed into Brimstone by the Surface of the Water placed to receive it this is once again melted and purified Some of the Brimstone Ore containeth Silver some Copper and some both in a small proportion Two Miners in their habits Virgula Divina The figure of an Iron retort such as are vsed at the quicksilver worke at Idria The other use and which is more considerable is for the making of Vitriol or Copperose in this manner They take the Ore out of which the Brimstone hath been already melted and burn it once again or let it still burn in the open Air then putting it into a large Fatt they pour water upon it so as to imbibe and drink in the Vitriol this Water is afterwards boyled to a sufficient height and let out into the Coolers where sticks are set in it as in the making of Sugar Candy The purest Chrystallized Vitriol sticks unto the wood the rest to the sides and bottom Thus the Sulphur Ore after the Sulphur is taken out of it still worketh upon the Silver Ore and openeth the Body of it in the Fire but when this Ore is also deprived of its Vitriol it worketh no more upon Metals Friberg is a round well-walled City hath handsome Streets a Piazza the Elector's Castle and five Gates the Church of St. Peter is fair where many of the Dukes and Ducal Family have been buried and have fair Monuments especially Duke Mauritius Elector of Saxony whose Monument in black Marble is raised three piles high adorned with many fair Statua's in Alabaster and white Marble and esteemed one of the noblest if not the best in Germany And when this Town was surrendred unto Holck and Gallas Octob. 5. 1632. the Duke of Saxony paid 80000 Dollars to save the Monuments of his Predecessours from being ransacked and defaced it being the fashion of divers German Princes to be buried in their Robes with their Ensigns of Honour Rings Jewels and the like which would have been booty and probably have run the same fortune as the Cloister of Haibron within twelve English miles of Nurenberg where some of the Marquisses of Onspach who are of the Electoral House of Brandenburg lye entombed where Tillie's Souldiers brake open the Vault and robbed the dead Corpses of the Marquisses George Frederick and Joachim Ernest of the Jewels Rings and other rich Ornaments with which they were entombed There are some Vaults and Subterraneous Cavities in the City by which there are passages into the Mines This place was formerly streightly besieged by the Emperour Adolphus for the space of a year and a month and at last betrayed by a Fugitive who let in a party of the Emperours into the Town by a Subterraneous Passage near St. Donats Gate and upon the continual Batteries made at the Town and concussion of the Earth about it the Earth sunk down in many places and swallowed great numbers of the Emperours Army These Mines afford great benefit unto the City and also unto the Elector They are said to have been found out in the year 1180. But there have been other Silver Mines discovered since as at Schneeberg at Anneberg and at Joachims Dale 1526. Having passed some time at Friberg I ordered my Journey for Leipsick and travelling by Waltheim and Coldick came unto it Leipsick is seated upon the River Elster which arising in Vortland or Terra Advocatorum passeth by it and afterwards runneth into the River Sala It is a rich and great trading City hath three Marts in the year and great resort unto it from many parts It is well-built and divers Houses are seven stories high The Castle is strictly guarded and hath in it a strong white Town But the Works about the Town are not very considerable although they might be made strong The Church of St. Nicholas is well adorned and hath the name to be the fairest within side of any Lutheran Church in Germany they have also a remarkable Burial-place or Godtsaker walled about and cloystered near the Wall wherein the better sort are buried as the rest in the middle and open part Which put me in mind of that noble Burial-place which I saw at Pisa in Tuscany called Il campo Santo because the Earth which the Emperour Frederick Barbarossa brought from the Holy Land for the Ballast of his Ships was laid upon that Ground Leipsick is famous for two great Battels fought near unto it in the last Swedish wars one between Gustavus Adolphus King of Sweden and Count Tilly General of the Imperialists 1631. wherein the Swedes obtained a great Victory Tilly was wounded fled and lived not long after Another some years after in the same place wherein Leonard Torstenson the Swede overcame Archduke Leopoldus Gulielmus and Octavio Piccolomini Generals of the Imperial Army And about a mile and a half from hence at Lutzen another great Battel was fought 1632. between the King of Sweden and the Imperial Army commanded by Albert Wallensteyn Duke of Friedland
from Objects above ground we may find no small content in the wonders thereof under it in Mines Minerals almost of all sorts of Gold Silver Copper Iron Tinn Lead Quicksilver Antimony Coal Salt Sulphur Cadmia and others where there are also singular Artificers and Workmen in the several Artifices thereof Conversation with the People is easie they behaving themselves without much Formality and are plain-dealing and trusty so that a Traveller needs not to be so solicitous and heedful of what he hath as in some other Countries which are esteemed of greater Civility The Women are generally well-complexioned sober and grave and they have not yet learned the custome of their Neighbours of France and Holland to admit of being saluted by Men faithful to their Husbands and careful in the affairs of their Houses They make good provision against the cold of their Country by sleeping between two Feather-beds and Stoves The common Stoves in Inns wherein there are for the most part several Companies eating drinking and in the night sleeping are convenient considering the great cold or at least tolerable but they being rooms close shut up the smell of the meat and especially of Cabbage an usual Dish amongst them makes them unpleasant so that sometimes I preferred the course of hot Countries while I called to mind that in Province and Italy we drank frozen Julebs which we dissolved with the heat of our hands slept upon a sheet on the outside of the Bed with all the Windows of the Chamber open and as we sate at dinner there was a Fann in the middle of the Room hanging over our Heads about two yards broad which with a string was pulled backward and forward to cool us and divers had Pans filled with Snow to cool the sheets when they went into their Beds Germany is a great Hive of men and the mighty destruction of men made by the last German wars and by the Plague is so repaired that it is scarce discernible They are fruitful and full of Children They are not exhausted by Sea Colonies sent forth or by peopling American Countries but they have some consumption by wars abroad when they be at peace at home few wars being made in other parts of Europe wherein there are not some Regiments of Germans the People being naturally Martial and persons well descended very averse from a Trading course of Life While I read in Tacitus of the old barbarous and rude State of Germany how poorly they lived that they had their Houses at a distance from one another how ignorant they were in Arts and it was doubted whether their Country afforded Mines that they lived by exchange of things making little or no use of mony and the like I may justly wonder to behold the present advance and improvement in all commendable Arts Learning Civility splendid and handsome Cities and Habitations and the general face of things incredibly altered since those ancient times and cannot but approve the expression of a Learned Man though long since That if Aâ—â—â—vâ—stus Civilis and those old famous men of Germany should revive in their Country again and look up to Heaven beholding the Constellations of the Bears and other Stars they might probably acknowledge that these were the same Stars which they were wont to behold but if they should look downward and well view the face of all things they would imagine themselves to be in a new world and never acknowledge this to have been their Country A JOURNEY FROM COLEN IN GERMANY TO LONDON DUring the Treaty of Peace at Colen in the year 1673. between the United States of the Netherlands the King of Great Britain and the French King many English Gentlemen having accompanied their Excellencies the Lords Ambassadours and Plenipotentiaries in their Journey had a desire also to view some of the Neighbouring Territories and to divertise themselves during the heat of the Summer at the Spaa the Baths of Aken and other places Having therefore in order to our Journey obtained a Pasport for our Safety from Count Blondel one of the Spanish Plenipotentiaries and from their Excellencies Sir Joseph Williamson and Sir Leoline Jenkins we left Coln on Munday the Fourth of July and upon the Road overtook my Lord of Peterborough who had been at Dusseldorp at the Duke of Newburg's Court and went afterwards into Italy to Modena and brought over her Highness the present Dutchess of York We dined at a small walled Town called Berckem which some think to be a name corrupted from Tiberiacum where we stayed a great part of the Afternoon to accommodate an unlucky Accident which happened A Servant of one of the English Gentlemen having casually shot a Horse which belonged to a Commander under the Duke of Newburg lying at that time with a party of Horse at this Town so that we travelled in the Evening through the Woods and came late to a place called Steinstrasse and the next day morning we went to Juliers Gulick or Juliers is a small Town by the River Roer but very ancient and called by the Romans Juliacum conceived to have been founded by Julius Caesar the Seat sometimes of the Dukes of Gulick before the uniting hereof with Cleve and since the dissolution of that Estate possessed by the United Provinces and then again by the Spaniards but at present in the hands of the Duke of Newburg It being agreed at the conclusion of Peace between the Spaniards and the Hollanders That the Marquess of Brandenburg should have Marck and Cleve and the Duke of Newburg Gulick and Berg. This is a handsome well fortified Town the Streets streight and the Houses of Brick The Citadel consists of four Bastions of a regular Fortification within which is the Princes Palace The Piazza in the Town is handsome and the whole considerable for its beauty and strength July the 5th we came to Aken or Aquisgranum sive Leagues distant from Gulick the French call it Aix la Chapelle from a Chappel in the great Church much visited by Pilgrims from many parts and famous for the great number of Reliques preserved therein When the Romans made war upon the Germans they possessed themselves of divers places between the Rhine and Maes And Granus a noble Roman being sent into these parts of Gallia Belgica about the year of our Lord Fifty three discovered among the Woods and Hills these hot Springs which to this day are so much celebrated in many parts of Europe who afterwards made use of them and adorned them after the manner of the Roman Baths and built a noble Habitation near them part of which the Inhabitants would have still to be standing retaining the name of Turris Grani an old Tower at the East-end of the Town-house a noble Antiquity But the manner of its building gives suspicion it cannot be so old Hence these Thermae from their Discoverer have been named Aquae Graniae and came to be frequented and the Town of Aquisgrane built and flourished