Country as it is thus on the one side freed by the natural resistance of the Sea from the force of Invasions so is it strengthened on the other by many Castles and fortified places that take away the opportunity of making Roads and Incursions in the Country And as it was with the first that felt the fury of the Saxons cruelty so was it the last and longest that was subdued under the Wâ—st-Saxons Monarchy 9 In this Province our noble Arthur who died laden with many Trophies of honour is reported by Ninius to have put the Saxons to flight in a memorable Battel near Duglasse a little Brook not far from the Town of Wiggin But the attemps of War as they are several so they are uncertain for they made not Duke Wade happy in his success but returned him an unfortunate enterpriser in the Battel which he gave to Ardulph King of Northumberland at Billango in the year 798. So were the events uncertain in the Civil Wars of York and Lancaster for by them was bred and brought forth that bloody division and fatal strife of the Noble Hoâ—ses that with variable success to both Parties for many years together molested the peace and quiet of the Land and defiled the earth with blood in such violent manner that it exceeded the horror of those Civil Wars in Rome that were betwixt Marius and Scylla Pompey and Caesar Octavius and Antony or that of the two renowned Houses Valoys and Burbon that a long time troubled the State of France for in the division of these two Princely Families there were thirteen Fields fought and three Kings of England one Prince of Wales twelve Dukes one Marquess eighteen Earls one Vicount and three and twenty Barons besides Knights and Gentlemen lost their lives in the same Yet at last by the happy Marriage of Henry the Seventh King of England next Heir to the House of Lancaster with Elizabeth daughter and Heir to Edward the Fourth of the House of York the white and red Roses were conjoyned in the happy uniting of those two divided Families from whence our thrice renowned Soveraign Lord King Iames by fair sequence and succession doth worthily enjoy the Dâ—adem by the benefit of whose happy government this County Palatine of Lancaster is prosperouâ— in her Name and Greatness 10 I find the remembrance of four Religious Houses that have been founded within this County and since suppressed both fair for Structure and Building and rich for seat and Situation namely Burstogh VVhalleia Holland and Penwortham It is divided into six Hundreds besides Fourness Felles and Lancasters Liberties that lie in the North part It is beautified with fifteen Market-Towns both fair for situation and building and famous for the concourse of people for buying and selling It hath twenty six Parishes besides Chappels in which they duly frequent to Divine Service and those populous as in no part of the Land more York SHIRE YORK-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXVIII AS the courses and confluents of great Rivers are for the most part fresh in memory though their heads and fountains lie commonly unknown so the latter knowledg of great Regions are not traduced to oblivion though perhaps their first originals be obscure by reason of Antiquity and the many revolutions of times and ages In the delineation therefore of this great Province of York-shire I will not insist upon the narration of matters near unto us but succinctly run over such as are more remote yet neither so sparingly as I may seem to diminish from the dignity of so worthy a Country nor so prodigally as to spend time in superfluous praising of that which never any as yet dispraised And although perhaps it may seem a labour unnecessary to make relation of ancient remembrances either of the Name or Nature of this Nation especially looking into the difference of Time it self which in every age bringeth forth divers effects and the dispositions of men that for the most part take less pleasure in them than in divulging the occurrents of their own times yet I hold it not unfit to begin there from whence the first certain direction is given to proceed for even of these ancient things there may be good use made either by imitation or way of comparison as neither the reperition nor the repetition thereof shall be accounted impertinent 2 You shall therefore understand That the County of York was in the Saxon-tongue called Ebona ycyne and now commonly York-shire far greater and more numerous in the Circuit of her miles than any Shire of England She is much bound to the singular love and motherly care of Nature in placing her under so temperate a clime that in every measure she is indifferently fruitful If one part of her be stone and a sandy barren ground another is fertile and richly adorned with Corn-fields If you here find it naked and destitute of Woods you shall see it there shadowed with Forrests full of Trees that have very thick bodies sending forth many fruitful and profitable branches If one place of it be Moorish miry and unpleasant another makes a free tender of delight and presents it self to the Eye full of beauty and contentive variety 3 The Bishoprick of Durham fronts her on the North-side and is separated by a continued course of the River Tees The German-Sea lyeth sore upon her East-side beating the shores with her boisterous Waves and Billows The West part is bounded with Lancashire and Westmerland The South-side hath Cheshire and Darby-shire friendly Neighbours unto her with the which she is first inclosed then with Nottingham and with Lincoln-shires after divided with that famous Arm of the Sea Humber Into which all the Rivers that water this Country empty themselves and pay their ordinary Tributes as into the common receptacle and store-house of Neptune for all the watry Pensions of this Province 4 This whole Shire being of it self so spacious for the more easie and better ordering of her Civil Government is divided into three parts which according to three quarters of the World are called The West-Riding The East-Riding and The North-Riding West-Riding is for a good space compassed with the River Ouse with the bounds of Lancashire and with the South limits of the Shire and beareth towards the West and South East-Riding bends it self to the Ocean with the which and with the River Derwent she is inclosed and looks into that part where the Sun rising and shewing forth his Beams makes the World both glad and glorious in his brightness North-Riding extends it self Northward hemmed in as it were with the River Tees and Derwent and a long race of the River Ouse The length of this Shire extended from Horthill in the South to the mouth of Tees in the North are neer unto seventy miles the breadth from Flambrough-head to Horn-Castle upon the River Luâ— is fourscore miles the whole Circumference is three hundred and eight miles 5 The Soil of this County for the generality is reasonable fertile
Town is managed by two Aldermen and two Bailiffs who are yearly elected out of twenty five Burgesses that are their assistants It hath no Recorder one Town-Clerk and two Sergeants at Mace and by observation of the Mathematicks the Pole is elevated in the degree of Latiâ—ude 53 and 49 sâ—ruples and from she first point in Longitude 16 and 45. 8 This County with them of Flint and Carnarven-shires are not divided by pricks into their several hundreds according to the rest of this work the want of their particulars in the Parliament Roles so causing it which for the good of these three Shires I earnestly sought to have supplied from the Nomina Villarum in their Sheriffs Books and had promise of them that might easily have procured the same But whether a fearless jealousie possessed their spirits lest the riches of these Shires by revealing such particulars should be further sought into I cannot say yet this I have observed in all my Survey that where least is to be had the greatest fears are possâ—ssed Take these Shires therefore to be done as I could and not as I would that wish both the wealth of them all and their esteem to be of better regard by those that may do them good 6 This Shire then is divided into twelve Hundreds for the readier ordering of businesses necessary to the State of the Country wherein are placed three Market-Towns â—it for buying and selling and other negotiations It hath five Castles to defend her self and to offend her enemies and fifty seven Parishes for Gods Divine Service and Worship FLINT-SHIRE CHAPTER XII FLINT-SHIRE stretching out in length broad at one end and narrow at another is not much unlike in fashion to a Wedge a piece of which is cut off by the meetiâ—g of Cheshire and Denbighshire South-East in distance some four miles It borders East-ward with part of Cheshire from whence it is guarded in length with the River Dee unto the North which parteth Worrall and Flint-shire till you come to a little Island called Hellebree Northward it is bounded with the Virginian-Sea on the West a little River called Cluyd parteth her and Denbighshire asunder and on the South altogether by Shrop-shire 2 This Country is nothing mountainous as other parts of Wales are but rising gently all along the River Dee makes a fair shew and prospect of her self to every eye that beholds her as well upon the River being in most places thereabouts four or five miles broad as upon the other side thereof being a part of Cheshire 3 The Air is healthful and temperate without any foggy clouds or fenny vapours saving that sometimes there ariseth from the Sea and the River Dee certain thick and smoaky seeming Misâ—â— which nevertheless are not found hurtful to the Inhabitants who in this part live long and healthfully 4 The Clime is somewhat colder there than in Cheshire by reason of the Sea and the River that engiâ—ts the better part of her by which the Northern-winds being long carried upon the Waters blow the more cold and that side of the Country upward that lieth shoring unto the top having neiâ—her shelter nor defence receiveth them in their still power and is naturally a Bulwark from their violence unto her bordering Neighbours that maketh the Snow to lie much longer there than on the other side of the River 5 The Soil bringeth forth plenty both of Corn and Grass as also great store of Cattel but they be little To supply which defect they have more by much in their numbers than in other places where they be bigger Great store of Fish they take in the River of Dee but little from the Sea by reason they have no Havens or Creeks for Boats No great store of Woods either there or in any other part of Wales are found it having been a general plague unto all the Country ever since the head-strong Rebellions of their Princes and great Men against the Kings of England that in time took away the principal helps of their Innovations by cutting down their Woods whereof in this Shire there hath heretofore been great plenty Fruits are scarce but Milk Butter and Cheese plenty as also store of Honey of the which they make a pleasant Wine in colour like in taste not much unlike unto Muskadine which they call Metheglin Yea and in the days of Giraldus Cambrensis near the place now called Holy-Well was a rich Mine of Silver in seeking after which men pierced and pried into the very bowels of the earth 6 The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ordovices a sturdy People against the Romans but now most kind and gentle towards the English and indeed make much of all Srangers except they be crossed and then they are the contrary 7 Places of defence are the Castles of Flint Hawarden vulgarly Harden Treer Rudland Mold Yowley and Hope of which Flint and Harden are the two principal The Castle of Flint famous for the benefit it received from two Kings and for the refuge and relief it gave unto the third It was founded by Henry the Second finished by Edward the First and long after gave harbour and entertainment to that noble but unfortunate Prince Richard the Second coming out of Ireland being within her Walls a free and absolute King but no sooner without but taken Prisoner by Henry Bullingbroke Duke of Lancaster losing at that time his liberty and not long after his life This standeth in the graduation of Latitude 53 55 minutes in Longitude 17. For the Castle of Hawarden no Record remains of the first Founder but that it was held a long time by the Stewards of the Earls of Chester Howbeit their resistances did not so genearally consist in the strength of their Castles and Fortifications as in their Mountains and Hills which in times of danger served as natural Bulwarks and Defences unto them against the force of Enemies As was that which standeth in a certain strait set about with Woods near unto the River Alen called Coles-hull that is Coles-hill where the English by reason of their disordered multitude not ranged in good array lost the Field and were defeated when King Henry the Second had made as great preparation as might be to give Battel unto the Welsh and the very Kings Standard was forsaken by Henry of Essex who was Standard-Bearer to the Kings of England in right of inheritance 8 This Country hath many shallow Rivers in it but none of fame and note but d ee and Cluyde Howbeit there is a Spring not far from Rudland Castle of great report and antiquity which is termed Fons Sacer in English Holy-Well and is also commonly called S. Winefrids-Well of whom antiquity thus reporteth That Winefrid a Christian Virgin very fair and vertuous was doated upon by a young lustful Prince or Lord of the Country who not long able to rule his head-strong affections having many times in vain attempted and tried her chastity both by rich gifts
obtained either by or against Rollo the Dane who in the year 876 entred England and in this Shire fought two battles one neer unto Hoâ—k-Norton and a second at the ScienStane 6 Rodâ—ot likewise remaineth as a monument of Oxfords highâ— styled Earl but unfortunate Prince Robert de Vere who besides the â—arldom was created by King Richard the second Mâ—â—quess of Dublin and Duke of Ireland but at that Bridge discomfited in fight by the Nobles and forced to swim the River where began the downfal of his high mounted fortunes for being driven forth of his Country lastly died in exile and distressed estate But more happy is this County in producing far more glorious Princes as King Edward the Confessor who in Islip was born Edward the victorious black Prince in Woodstock and in Oxford that warlike Coeur de Lion King Richard the first the son of King Henry the second first took breath 7 Which City is and long hath been the glorious seat of the Muses the British Athens and learnings well spring from whose living Fountain the wholsome waters of all good literature streaming plenteously have made fruitful all other parts of this Realm and gained glory amongst all Nations abroad Antiquity avoucheth that this place was consecrated unto the sacred Sciences in the time of the Old Britains and that from Greek-lod a Town in Wilt shire the Academy was translated unto Oxford as unto a Plant-plot both more pleasing and fâ—uitful whereto accordeth the ancient Burlaeus and Necham this latter also alledging Merlin But when the beauty of the Land lay under the Saxons prophane feet it sustained a part of these common calamities having little reserved to uphold its former glory save onely the famous monument of S. Frideswids Virgin Conquest no other School then left standing besides her Monastery yet those great blasts together with other Danish storms being well blown over King Elfred that learned and religious Monarch recalled the exiled Muses to their sacred place and built there three goodly Colledges for the studies of Divinity Philosophy and other Arts of humanity sending thither his own son Ethelward and drew thither the young Nobles from all parts of his Kingdom The first Reader thereof was his supposed brother Neote a man of great learning by whose direction King Elfred was altogether guided in this his goodly foundation At which time also Assereus Menevensis a writer of those times affairs read the Grammar and Rhetorick and affirmeth that long before them Gildas Melkin Ninius Kentigern S. German and others spent there their lives in learned studies From which time that it continued a Seedploâ— of learning till the Norman Conquest Ingulphus â—ecordeth who himself then lived No marvel then if Matthew Paris calleth Oxford the second School of Christendom and the very chief Pillar of the Catholick Church And in the Council holden at Vienna it was ordâ—ined that in Paris Oxford â—ononiâ— and Salamanca the onely Vniversities then in Europe should be erected Schools for the Hebrew Greek Arabick and Caldean tongues and that Oxford should be the general universiâ—y for all England Ireland Scotland and Wales which point was likewise of such weight with the Council of Constance that from this pâ—â—cedent of Oxford University it was concluded that the English Nation was not only to have pâ—ecedence oâ— Spain in all General Councils but was also to be held equal with France it self By which high peâ—ogatives this of ours hath always so flourished that in the days of King Henry the third thirty tâ—ousand Students were therein resident as Archbishop Armachanus who then lived hath writ and Riâ—haâ—ger then also living sheweth that for all the civil wars which hindred such placâ—s of quiet study yet 15000 Students were there remaining whose names saith he were entered in Matricula in the matriculation book About which time Iohn Baliol the father of â—aliol King of Scots built a Colledge yet bearing his name Anno 1269 and Walter Merton Bishop of Rochester that which is now called Merton Colledge both of them beautified with buiâ—dings and enriched wâ—th landâ— and were the first endowed Colledges for learning in all Christendom And at this present there are sixteen Colledges besides another newly builded with eight Halls and many most fair Collegiate Churches all aâ—orned with most stately buildings and enriched with great endowments noble Libraries and most learned Graduates of all professions that unless it be her sister Cambridge the other â—ursing breast of this land the like is not found again in the World This City is also honoured with an Episcopal See As for the site thereof it is removed from the Equatâ—r in the degree 52 and one minute and from the West by Mercators measure 19 degrees and 20 minutes â— As this County is happy in the possâ—ssion of so famous an Academy so it is graced with most Princely Palaces apperâ—aining to the English Crown whereof Woodsâ—ock is the most ancient and magnificent built to that glory by King Henry the first and enlarged with a Labyrinth of many windings by King Henry the second to hide from his jealous Iuno his intirely beloved Concubine Rosamond Clifford a Damosel of surpassing beauty where notwithstanding followed by a clew of silk that fell from her lap she was surprised and poâ—soned by Queen Eleanor his wife and was first buried at Godsâ—ow Nunnery in the midst of the quiâ—e under a Hearse of silk set about with lights whom Hugh Bishop of Lincoln thinking it an unfâ—t object for Virgins devotion caused to be removed into the Church â—ard but those chast sisters liked so well the memory of that kind Lady as that her bones they translated again into their Chappel Bensington is another of his Majesties Mannors built by William de la Pole Duke of Suffolk but now in neglect through the annoyance arising from the waters or marishes adjoyning Houses built for devotion and for abuse suppressed and again put down the chief in account were Enishamâ— Osney Bruern Godsâ—ow Burchester and Tame besides S. Frideswides and very many other stately Houses of Religion in this City The Division of this Shire is into fourteen Hundreds wherein are seated ten Market-Towns and two â—undred and fourscore Parish Câ—uâ—ches Glocester Shire GLOCESTER-SHIRE CHAPTER XXIII GLOCESTER-SHIRE lieth bordered upon the North with Worcester and Warwick-shires upon the East with Oxford and Wilt-shires upon the South altogether with Somerset-Shire and upon the West with the River Wye and Hertford shire 2 The length thereof extended from Bristow upon the River Avon in her South unto Clifford upon another Avon in her North are about forty eight miles and her broadest part from East to West is from Lechland unto Preston containing twenty eight the whole circumference about one hundred thirty eight miles 3 The Form whereof is somewhat long and narrow the Air thereof is pleasant sweet and delectable and for fruitfulness of Soyl hear Malmesbury and not me The ground of this Shire throughout saith
with great efficacy 4 As Cornwall so this hath the same Commodities that arise from the Seas and being more inlaâ—ded hath more commodious Havens for Shippings entercourse among whom Totnes is famous for Brutes first entrance if Geffry say true or if Havillan the Poet took not a Poetical liberty when speaking of Brute he wrote thus The Gods did guide his sail and course the winds were at command And Totnes was the happy shour where first he came on land But with more credit and lamentable event the Danes at Teigne-mouth first entred for the invasion of this Land about the year of Christ 787 unto whom Britrik King of the West-Saxons sent the Steward of his house to know their intents whom râ—sistantly they slew yet were they forced back to their Ships by the Inhabitants though long they stayed not but eagerly pursued their begun enterprises With more happy success hath Plimouth set forth the purchasers of same and stopped the entrance of Englands Invaders as in the reign of that eternized Queen the â—irrour of Princes Elizabeth of everlasting memory for from this Port Sir Francis Drake that potent man at Sea setting forth Anno 1577 in the space of two years and ten months did compass the circle of the earth by Sea And the Lord Charles Howard Englands high Admiral did not only from hence impeach the entrance of the proud invincible Spanish Navy intending invasion and subversion of State but with his Bullets so signed their passage that their sides did well shew in whose hands they had been as seals of their own shame and his high honour 5 The Commodities of this Shire consist much in Wools and Clothings where the best and finest Kersies are made in the Land Corn is most plenteous in the fruitful Vallies and Cattle spreading upon the topped Hills Sea-Fish and Fowl exceedingly abundant Veins of Lead yea and some of Silver in this Shire are found and the Load-stone not the least for use and esteem from the Rocks upon Dart-more hath been taken Many fresh Spâ—ings bubble from the Hills in this Province which with a longing desire of Society search out their passage till they meet and conjoyn in the Vallies and gathering still strength with more branches lastly grow bodies able to bear Ships into the Land and to lodge them of great burthen in their bosoms or Falls whereof Tamer Tave and Ex are the fairest and most commodious 6 Upon which last the chief City and shire Town of this County is seated and from that River hath her name Excester this City by Ptolomy is called Isca by the Itinerary of Antonius Emperour Isca Danmonioram and by the Welsh Pencaer It is pleasantly seated upon the gentle ascent of an hill so stately for building so rich with inhabitants so frequent for commeree and concourse of strangers that a man can desire nothing but there it is to be had saith VVilliam of Malmesbury The walls of this City first built by King Athelstane are in a manner circular or round but towards the Ex rangeth almost in a straight line having six Gates for entrance and many Watch-Towers interposed betwixt whose compass containeth about fifteen hundred paces upon the East part of this City standeth a Castle of Rugemont sometimes the Palace of the VVest-Saxon Kings and after them of the Earls of Cornwall whose Prospect is pleasant unto the Sea and over against it a most magnificent Cathedral Church founded by King Athelstane also in the honour of S. Peter and by Edward the Confessor made the Bishops See which he removed from Crediton or Kirton in this County unto the City of Excester as saith the private History of that place whose dilapidations the reverend Father in God VVilliam now Bishop of the Diocess with great cost hath repaired whom I may not name without a most thankful remembrance for the great benefits received by his carefull providence towards me and mine This City was so strong and so well stored of Britains that they held out against the Saxons for 465 years after their first entrance and was not absolutely won until Athelstane became Monarch of the whole who then peopled it with his Saxons and enriched the beauty thereof with many fair buildings but in the times of the Danish desolation this City with the rest felt their destroying hands for in the year 875 it was by them sore afflicted spoiled and shaken and that most grievously by Swane in the year of Christ Iesus 1003. who razed it down from East to West so that scarcely had it gotten breath before VVilliam the bastard of Normandy besieged it against whom the Citizens with great manhood served till a part of the wall fell down of it self and that by the hand of Gods providence saith mine Author Since when it hath been three times besieged and with valiant resistance ever defended The first was by Hugh Courtney Earl of Devonshire in the civil broiles betwixt Lancaster and York Then by Perkin VVarbeck that counterfeited Richard Duke of York And lastly by the Cornish Rebels wherein although the Citizens were grievously pinched with scarcity yet continued they their faithful allegiance unto King Edward the sixth and at this day flourisheth in tranquility and wealth being governed by a Major twenty four Brethren with a Recorder Town-Clerk and other Officers their Attendants This Cities graduation is set in the degree of Latitude from the North Pole 50 and 45 scruples And for Longitude from the West to the degree 16 and 25 scruples Neither is Ioseph that excellent Poet whose birth was in this City the least of her Ornaments whose Writings bear so great credit that they were divulged in the German Language under the name of Cornelius Nepos The like credit got Crediton in her birth child VVinifred the Apostle of the Hassians Thuringers and Frisians of Germany which were converted by him unto Gospel and knowledge of Christ. 7 Places memorable in this County remaining for signs of Battles or other antiquities are these Upon Exmore certain Monuments of Antick-work are erected which are stones pitched in order some Triangle-wise and some in round compass These no doubt were trophies of Victories there obtained either by the Romans Saxons or Danes and with Danish Letters one of them is inscribed giving direction to such as should travel that way Hublestowe likewise near unto the mouth of â—awe was the burial place of Huba the Dane who with his Brother Hungar had harried the English in divers parts of the Land But lastly was there encountred with and slain by this Shires Inhabitants and under a heap of copped stones interred and the Banner Reasen there and then taken that had so often been spread in the Danes quarrel and wherein they reposed no small confidence for success 8 A double dignity remaineth in this County where Princes of State have born the Titles both of Devon-shire and Excester of which City there have been entituled Dukes the last of whom namely Henry Holland
Grand-child to Iohn Holland half-brother to King Richard the Second siding with Lancaster against Edward the fourth whose Sister was his wife was driven to such misery as Philip Comineus repotteth that he was seen all torn and bare-footed to beg his living in the Low Countries And lastly his body was cast upon the shore of Kent as if he had perished by ship-wrack so certain is Fortune in her endowments and the state of man notwithstanding his great birth 9 Religious Houses in this Shire built in devotion and for Idolatry pulled down were at Excester Torhay Tanton Tavestokes Kirton Hartland Axminster and Berstuble 10 And the Counties divisions are parted into thirty three Hundreds wherein are seated thirty seven Market-Towns and three hundred ninety four Parish-Churches Cornwaile CORNVVALL CHAPTER X. CORNWALL as Matthew of Winchester affirmeth is so named partly from the form and partly from her people for shooting it self into the Sea like an Horn which the Britains call Kâ—rne and inhabited by them whom the Saxons named Wallia of these two compounded words it became Cornwallia Not to trouble the Reader with the Fable of Corinnus cousin to King Brute who in free gift received this County in reward of his prowess for wrestling with the Giant Gogmagog and breaking his neck from the Cliffe of Dover as he of Monmouth hath fabuled 2 Touching the temperature of this County the Air thereof is cleansed as with Bellowes by the Billowes that ever work from off her environing Seas where thorow it becometh pure and subtile and is made thereby very healthful but withall so piercing and sharp that it is apter to preserve than to recover health The Spring is not so early as in more Eastern parts yet the Summer with a temperate heat recompenseth his â—low fostering of the fruits with their most kindly ripening The Autumne bringeth a somewhat late Harvest and the Winter by reason of the Seas warm breath maketh the cold milder than else-where Notwithstanding that Countrey is much subject to stormy bâ—asts whose violence hath freedome from the open waves to beat upon the dwellers at Land leaving many times their houses uncovered 3 The Soyl for the most part is lifted up into many hills parted asunder with narrow and short valâ—â—es and a shallow earth doth cover their outside which by a Sea weed called Orewood and a certain kind of frâ—â—sul Sea-sand they make so rank and batten as is uncredible But more are the riches that out of those hills are gotten from the Mines of Copper and Tinn which Countrey was the first and continueth the best stored in that merchandize of any in the world Timaeus the Historian in Pliny reporteth that the Britains fetched their Tinn in Wicker boats stitched about with Leather And Diodorus Siculus of Augustus Caesars time writeth that the Britains in this part digged Tin out of stony ground which by Merchants was carried into Gallia and thence to Narborne as it were to a Mart. Which howsoever the English Saxons neglected yet the Normans made great benefit thereof especially Richard brother to King Henry the third who was Earl of Cornwall and by those Tinn-works became exceedingly rich for the incursions of the Moores having stopped up the Tinn-Mines in Spain and them in Germany not discovered before the year of Christ 1240. these in Cornwall supplyed the want in all parts of the world This Earl made certain Tinn-Laws which with liberties and priviledges were confirmed by Earl Edmund his son And in the days of King Edward the third the Common-weale of Tinn-works from one body was divided into four and a Lord Warden of the Stanniers appointed their Iudge 4 The Borders of this Shire on all parts but the East is bound in with the Sea and had Tamer drawn his course but four miles further to the North betwixt this County and Devonshire it might have been rather accounted an Island than stood with the Mayne Her length is from Launston to the Lands-end containing by measure 60 miles and the broadest part stretching along by the Tamer is fully forty lessening thence still lesser like a horn 5 The Antient inhabitants known to the Romans were the Danmonii that spread themselves further into Devon-shire also by the report of Diodorus Siculâ—â— a most courteous and civil people and by Michael their Poet extolled for valour and strength of limbs nor therein doth he take the liberty that Poets are allowed to add to the subject whreof they write but truly repotteth what we see by them performed who in activity surmount many other people When the Heathen Saxons had seated themselves in the best of this Land and forced the Christian Britains into these rocky parts then did Cornwall abound in Saints unto whose honour most of the Churches were erected by whose names they are yet known and called To speak nothing of Visula that Counties Dukes daughter with her company of canonized Virgin-Saints that are now reputed but to trouble the Calender These Britains in Cornwall so fenced the Countrey and defended themselves that to the reign of Athelstaâ—e they held out against the Saxons who subduing those Western Parts made Tamer the Bounder betwixt them and his English whose last Earl of the British Bloud was called Candorus 6 But William the Bastard created Robert his half-brother by Herlotta their mother the first Earl of the Normans race and Edward the Black Prince the ninth from him was by his Father King Edward the third invested the first Duke of Cornwall which Title ever since hath continued in the Crown 7 The Commodities of this Shire ministred both by Sea and Soile are many and and great for besides the abundance of Fish that do suffice the Inhabitants the Pilchard is taken who in great shuls swarm about the Coast whence being transported to France Spain and Italy yield a yearly revenue of gain unto Cornwall wherein also Copper and Tinn so plentifully grow in the utmost part of this Promontory that at a low water the veins thereof lie bare and are seen and what gain that commodity begets is vulgarly known Neither are these Rocks destitute of Gold nor Silver yea and Diamonds shaped and pointed Angle wise and smoothed by Nature her self whereof some are as big as Wallnuts inferiour to the Orient only in blackness and hardness Many are the Ports Bayes and Havens that open into this Shire both safe for arrivage and commodious transport whereof Falmouth is so copious that an hundred Ships may therein ride at Anchor apart by themselves so that from the tops of their highest Masts they shall not see each other and lie most safely under the Winds 8 This County is fruitful in Corn Cattle Sea-fish and Fowl all which with other provision for pleasures and life are traded thorow twenty two Market-Towns in this Shire whereof Lauston and Bodman are the best from which last being the middle of the Shire the Pole is elevated to the degree of Latitude 50 35 minutes and for Longitude
English miles and from Turny in the West unto Hartly Coking in the East are not fully fourteen the whole Circumference about seventy three miles 3 The Air is temperate and the Soil bounteous especially in the North whose Borders the fruitful Ouse with her many windings watereth The South is more lean and with greater industry bringeth forth Barley no better elsewhere Generally this County is Champion though some places be sprinkled with Pasturage and Woods 4 The ancient Inhabitants known to the Romans that held in this Shire were part of the Cattieuchlani a Stout and war-stiring people and yet upon the report of Caesars proceeding sent him their subjection for peace But when that conquering Nation had brought Britain into a Prâ—vince under Rome their Legions lay at Selenae and Magintum which are now Sandy and Dunstable places of memorable note in this Shire After them the Saxons coveting for so fair a Seat first dispossessed the Britains under the leading of Cuthwulfâ— the West-Saxon about the year of Grace 572 who making it their own was lastly enjoyed by the Mercians as a part of their Kingdom 5 In the year of Christs Incarnation 1399 immediately before those Civil Wars that rent in pieces the peace of this Land between the Princes of Lancaster and York the River Ouse near unto Harwood stood suddenly still and refrained to pass any further so that forward men passed three miles together on foot in the very depth of her Channel and backward the waters swelled unto a great height which was observed by the judicious to foretel some unkind diuision that shortly should arise 6 This County among the common calamities of the Land when it lay trampled under the feet of the Danes sustained a part and after that in the time of King Stephen when the Civil Wars thundred betwixt Maud the Empress and himself the Shire-Town was sore wasted with great slaughter of men So when the Barons forsook their allegiance to King Iohn the Town and Castle were rendred up into their hands And lastly by King Henry the third laid level even with the ground some ruinous walls appearing towards the Ouse but not a stone left upon the Mount where stood his foundation 7 This Town by the Britains was called Lettidur and of us Bedford being the chiefest in the County from whom it taketh the name and is most fruitful and pleasantly seated having the Ouse running thorow the Town in the middest and a fair Stone bridge built over the same whereon are two Gates to lock and impeach the passage as occasion shall 〈◊〉 At the first entrance standeth S. Leonards Hospital for Lazars and further towards S. Iohns and S. Maries Churches within the Town S. Pauls a most beautiful Church S. Cuthberts and S. Peters without the Town standeth the Friers S. Loyes Alhallows and Caâ—dwell Abbey not far whence sometimes stood a Chappel upon the Bank of Ouse wherein as Florilegus affirmeth the body of Offa the great Mercian King was interred but by the over-swelling of that River was born down and swallowed up whose Tombe of Lead as it were some phantastical thing appeared often to them that seek it not but to them that seek it saith Rosse it is invisible This Town is governed yearly by a Mayor two Bayliffs two Chamberlains a Recorder a Town-Clerk and three Sergeants with Maces 8 A tale of vain credit is reported of Dunstable that it was built to bridle the outragiousness of a â—heef named Dun by King Henry the first but certain it is the place was formerly held by the Romans whose Legions there lay as appeareth by the Coyns there usually found which from Magintum are corruptly called Madning-money 6 Castles in this Shire are Woodhill Eaton Temsford and Amphill an honour now appertaining to the Crown And places of Religion built by devout persons but for Idolatrous Abuses again abolished were at Bedford Harwood Helenstow Newenham Chicksand Wardon Woborne and Dunstable All these with the like felt the hand of Henry the eighth to lie so heavy upon them that they were not able to sustain the weight but were crushed to pieces and fell to the ground 10 The Graduation of this County taken for the Shire-Town is placed from the Equator in the degree of 52 and 30 minutes for Latitude and is removed from the first West point of Longitude 20 degrees and 16 minutes 11 Whos 's Princely Families that have born the Titles both of Dukes and Earls are expressed and whose Counties division are into nine hundreds wherein are seated ten Market-Towns and one hundred and sixteen Parish-Churches BUCKINGHAM SHIRE BUCKINGHAM-SHIRE CHAPTER XXI BUCKINGHAM for the plenty of Beech-trees there growing and those in the elder time of the Saxons called Buckâ—n may well be supposed from them to have the name as afterward the whole Shire had hers from this Town Buckingham 2 In form it somewhat resembleth a Lyon Rampant whose head or North-point toucheth the Counties of Northampton and Bedford whose back or East part is backed by Bedford and Hertford-Shires his loines or South-borders rest upon Bark-shire and his breast thâ— West side is butted upon wholly by Oxford-shirâ— The length thereof from Waisbury in the South to Braidfield in her North are thirty nine miles the breadth at the broadest from Ashbridge in the East to Brenwood Horrest in the West are eighteen the whole in Circumference one hundred thirty eight miles 3 The Air is passing good temperate and pleasant yielding the body health and the mind content The soil is rich fat and fruitful giving abundance of Corn Grass and Meat It is chiefly divided into two parts by the Chiltren hills which run thorow this Shire in the middest and before time were so pestered with Beech that they were altogether unpassable and became a receptacle and refuge for Theeves who daily endammaged the way-faring man for which cause Laestan Abbot of S. Albans caused them to be cut down since when those parts are passable without any great incombrances of trees from whose tops a large and most pleasant prospect is seen The Vale beneath is plain and champion a clayie soil stiff and rough but withall maruellous fruitful naked of woods but abounding in meadows pastures and tillage and maintaining an infinite number of sheep whose soft and fine fleeces are in great esteem with the Turks as far as Asia 4 The ancient Inhabitants â—hat were seated in this Shire were the Catteuchlani mentioned by Ptolomy and them dispersed thorow the Tract of Bedford Hertford and this These yielded themselves with the first to Caesar under the Romans subjection whose over-worn Empire ending in Britain the Saxons by strong hand attained this Province and made it a part of their Mercian Kingdom yet was it first subdued unto them by Cherdike the West-Saxon whose memory is iâ—part continued in the Toâ—n Chersey upon the West of this Country where in a sharp and bloudy battle he was Victor over the Britains So also Cuthwulâ—e a West
from the report of 〈…〉 and other ancient Writers But the reason I hold not good for â—owsoâ—ver it might be true in 〈◊〉 times of some and the most part perhaps of 〈◊〉 as it was then 〈◊〉 that it wâ—s 〈…〉 yet now she hath changed her 〈…〉 6 By her first Geographers she was 〈…〉 tongue and Empire exercised over the Region of Prussia South-ward she reacheth beyond Danubius to the very Alpes which border upon Italy Northâ— ward she hath ever kept her own but hath been curb'd indeed from seeking new Kingdoms in that tract by the main Ocean which divides her in part from Swevia Norway c. And to these limits we apply our Description No marvelâ— if it give her more honour than she had in former times For her compass now is reckoned to be 2600 English miles Her ground fertile enough of it self and yet besides enjoyes the benefit of many Navigable Rivers which enrich her with traffique from other Kingdoms 7 Those of greatest fame are 1 Danubius the largest of Europe called by Pliny and others Ister It takes in sixty Navigable Rivers and is at last discharged by many passages into the Pontus Euxinus 2 Rhene which hath its rising from the Alpes and runs into the German Ocean From thence have we our best Rhenâ—sh Wines and upon his banks sâ—ands the City Strasburge 3 Amaâ—us Fms which glides by Wâ—stphalia into the German Sea 4 Maemu Megu whose head is in the Mountains of Boâ—emia and from thence passeth by Francfort into the German sea 5 Albis Elve which riseth from the eleven Fountains meeting into one about the Sylva Hircinian 6 Odeca which hath not his passage immediately into the Sea but inâ—o the River Albis The middle mark of this Country is the Kingdom of â—ohemia encompassed with the Sylva Hircinia 8 The chief commodities of Germany are Corn Wine Salt Metals of all sorts Fruits good store Safron c. The Aire wholsome her Bathes healthful her Gardens pleasurable her Cities fair her Castles strong and her Villages very many and well peopled 9 The Inhabitants have put off their ancient rudeness as the Country her barrenness They are as goodly of person as ever as stout as ever and far more civill than in the time of the Romans It seems they were then esteemed but an ignorant and simple people more able to fight than to mâ—nage a battle They were ever hardy enough but wanted Commanders of their own of skill and â—udgement Since they had commerce with other Nations and have suffered the upbraid asit were of their Predecessors dulness they have been in a manner shamed out of it and are now become rather by industry than wit a most ingenious people and skilful in the Latine Greek and Hebrew learning famous beyond any others in Europe unless Belgia for the invention of many notable and â—seful Engines The Gun and Gun-powder was first brought to light by one Bertholdus Swart a Franciscan which hath almost put by the use of any other warlike Instrument in those parts of the world where the practice is perfectly understood Generally the poorer sort are excellent Mechanicks and the rest for the most part Scholars 10 It bred Albertâ—s Mâ—gnus Appean Geâ—ner Munster Luther Vrsin Zuinglius Scultetus Iunius Keckerman and many others in their several kinds and Religions some Papists some Lutherans some Calvinists and among the rest many Iews 11 The Government of this Germany is Imperial as once that of Rome was though it flourish not in so full glory The right descends not by succession nor is the election continued by the like suffrage as in old Rome The power of choice was conferred by Pope Gregory the tenth upon seven German Princes three Spiritual and four Temporal These are the Arch-bishop of Mentâ— Chancellour of the Empire through Germany Archbishop of Cullen Chancellour of the Empire through Italy Arch-bishop of Triers Chancellour of the Empire through France The Temporal are the King of Bohemea who hath the casting voice only in case of equality among the other six his office is to be chief Cupâ— bearer at the great solemnity Next him the Count Palatine of the Rhene Arch-sewer to the Emperour Duke of Saxony Lord Marshal and Marquess of Brandenburge chief Chamberlain Each of these perform his own Office in person upon the day of Inauguration The Duke of Saxoâ—y bears the sword The Count Palatine placeth his meat on the Table The King of Bohemia bears his Cup and delivers it him to drink Marquess of Brandenbâ—rg serveth him water to wash And the three Bishops bless his meat He receiveth three Crowns before he is fully setled into the Majesty of the Empire The first is of Silver for Germaâ—y The second of Iron for Lombardy And the third of Gold for the Empire the last is set on at Rome For to this day it pretends to the name of the Roman Empire and gives the title oâ— Caesar or Roâ—ani imperii Imperator 12 The first which enjoyed the institution of Pope Gregory was Radulphus Nabs Purgensis 1273. after twelve years interregnum The last before him was our Richard Earl oâ—â— Cornwall and brother to Henry the third King of England Since it hath continued firm in this course of Election howsoever not with that liberty as was intended For commonly the Emperour in being while he hath his power about him and can at least intreat if not command the subjects of the Empire promise a choice of the Rex Roâ—aâ—orum who is no other than a Successour designed to rule after his death or resignation And by this means it hath a long time continued in the house of Austria without any intermission 13 Thus we â—â—e much plotting great state many ceremonies to the making up of an Emperour and yet when it is well weighed it is little better then a bare title For howsoever these outward obâ—ervances of the Gâ—rman Princes make show of an humble subjection to the Emperour yet when it comes to trâ—all it hath very little to do in their Governments But each of them takes upon â—im as a â—ree and absolute Commander in his own Country permitteth or suppresseth the Beligion which he â—ither likes or dislâ—kes makes and abrogates Laws at pleasure stamps Coyn raiseth souldiers and sometimes against their great Master as the Duke of Saxony against Charles the fiâ—th and at this day divers others in defence of the Princâ— Pâ—latine For of this qâ—ality and power there are many Dukes Marquesses Counts c. besides 64 Franc Cities which make only some slight acknowledgment to the Emperour appear perhaps at his â—arliaments and they say are bound to â—urnish him at need with 3842 horse amonge them and 16200 foot 14 The cheiâ—est Regions of Germany best known to us and noted by our Geographers with a more eminent Character than the rest are these 1 East Frizeland 2 Westphalia 3 Cullen 4 Munster 5 Triers 6 Cleve 7 Gulick 8 Hassis 9 Alsatia 10 Helvetia 11 Turingia
now belongs to this government the first since the year 1454. in the time of Casimirus and the last was brought under by Sigismond the first about an hundred years after 3 14 Polonia is divided into the greater and less The greater Poland is more Northern and joyns upon Pomerania and Prussia It was therefore called the greater because here Lechius first planted himself and built the City Guesna which was the Regal seat till it was translated to Cracovia in the lesser Poland 1320. yet at this day is her Archbishop Primate of the Kingdom during an interregnum hath the power of a Prince and Crowns the new King at his Inauguration Polonia the less is more Southern lies hard upon Russia and Hungary It is now esteemed the more noble part of this Province For here stands the Metropolis Cracovia on the banks of Vistula and Lublin and other of the best note in Poland 4 15 Prussia Spruce on the East of Pomerania hath the Baltick Seas on the Norâ—â— and Massoriâ— on the South and on her own East Lituania It is now a Dukedome and contains Cities of note Danâ—zike where Keckerman professed and Mons Regus Regimont Maneburg Heilsperge Câ—lne c. Her chief commodity is Leather much used heretofore to make Ierkins where none more brave than the younker that could compass a Leather Ierkin Here is likewise great store of Amber a juyco growing like a Corral in a Mountain of the North Sea which is clean covered with water and cast up by violence of the waves into their Havens 5 Russia nigra on the East and South of Poland the less and the North of Hungary and West of Podolia and had her name as some suppose first Ruthenia and Russia which in the Ruthen tongue signifies no other than a dispersed Nation For so were the Russians through all Sarmatia Europaea and a part of the Asiatick from the frozen Ocean to the Mediterrâ—neum and the Sinus Adriaticus and the Pontus Euxinus and the Mare Balticum all that used the Sclavonian tongue and professed Christ after the manner of the Greeks were called Russi and Luthenâ— But the Province here meant is only the South Tract as much as belongs to the King of Poland and is called Nigra to distinguish it from Muscovia or Russia Alba. The people are valiant and in their fights use weapons of exceeding weight and bigness Her Prince is eâ—tituled Duke the name of King they will not endure This Province contains the Territories Leopoliensis with her chief city Leopolis Lunt-burg a fair Town and an Arch bishop See And the Territories Haliciensis â—elzensis Praemifliensis c. 6 16 Samogitia toward the North and her West hath the Sinus Balticus North East Livora It is in length fifty miles very cold compassed in with Woods and Rivers Her principal Town is Camâ—a But not that nor any other is very famous for Lordly buildings the fairest are but sheds in respect of other Countries The Peasants are truly so indeed for they reckon themselves but little better than their Cattel live under the same roof with them without any partition or nice loathing of their nastiness a life fit enough for such a people for they are yet most of them gross Ido laters and are oft times met in their Woods with horrid visions and are strangely cozened by the Devil with a belief that they can prophecy The silly blasphemers nourish in their house a poor snake like themselves gathered out of some ditch and call it their god worship it with great fear and reverence and sacrifice once in a year I Octob. to their devil but by the name of their god Ziem enike The better sort are Christians of a comely portraiture and good feature valiant and ready to take Arms when occasion calls them Their greatest plenty is of Honey which they gather ready made to their hands in their hollow trees 17 Massoria on the South of Prussia and North of Polonia and Russia and the East of either Poland West of Lituania She had her name from a former Duke which was ejected by Casimirus where it had a peculiar Prince of its own it belonged to the second son of the Kings of Poland but in the year 1526 after the untimely death of Iohn and Starislaus heirs to this State it became a peculiar to the Crown of Poland Her chief City is Marscoria which hath many under her all use the same speech and customes with the other Polonians 8 Livonia to the North bounded with Finland on the South with Lituania on the West with the Baltick Sea and on the East with Muscovie It is a large Province carries in breadth one hundred and sixty miles and in length five hundred It is Fenny and Woody but yet hath Corn and Fruit plenty Cattel good store wild and tame especially Horses They have Honey Wax c. enough to exchange with other Countries for Wine and Oyl For this yields little or none It became Christian one thousand two hundred Her chief Towns are Riga Rivalia Derpe and Venda About some twelve miles from the Continent is the Isle of Osel 9. 18 Podlussia on the East of Massoria and West of Lituania was joyned to Poland one thousand five hundred sixty nine The Inhabitants are Massorites Russians and Polands Her chief Towns are Titock sin a Fort where the Kings Treasure is kept Beisco and Russin In this the King hath a fair Court furnisht magnificently both for state and pleasure 10 Lituania on the East of Poland and South of Livonia on the West of Muscovia and North of Podolia The air is very unnatural and by that means the creatures thereof every kind are very small and their wants great of Corn Wine Salt c. The people are of a slavish disposition and live thereafter poor and basely The women have a freedom by custome to keep many Stallions which their Husbands love us themselves and call them their adjutories But the men may by no means play false Their condemned persons be it to death must execute themselves or be tormented till they expire They became Christians 〈◊〉 as they are one thousand three hundred eighty six The principal Cities are Vilna 〈◊〉 and Brestia and Norigredum a City by report larger than Rome 19 11 Volhinia lieth betwixt Lituania Padolia and Russia a plentiful Region and breeds hardy Souldiers They live as Russians use the same speech and customes Her chief Towns are Kioria and Lircassia upon the edge of Boristhenes 12 Podoâ—ia is on the South of Lituania East of Poland and North of the River Niester or Boristhenes as it runs from his head to the Pontus Euxinus and on the West of Russia It affords great plenty it seems three Harvests they say of one sowing It is pity saith Vadianus it should be left desert as in manner it is unless here and there a Village Her chief is Camiensen the only one able to return the Turks and Tartars with the loss as it