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A29631 Travels over England, Scotland and Wales giving a true and exact description of the chiefest cities, towns, and corporations, together with the antiquities of divers other places, with the most famous cathedrals and other eminent structures, of several remarkable caves and wells, with many other divertive passages never before published / by James Brome ... ; the design of the said travels being for the information of the two eldest sons, of that eminent merchant Mr. Van-Ackar. Brome, James, d. 1719. 1700 (1700) Wing B4861; ESTC R19908 191,954 310

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Countries in England and taking its Name both from its Situation and the great number of Moors in it 'T is likewise a Hilly Country two ridges of high Hills crossing it as far as Cumberland which besides their Northern Situation sharpen the Air and make it less Subject to Fogs and Vapours then many other Counties by reason of which the People are free from strange and infectious Diseases being healthful and living generally to great Ages but in the Southern parts of it it is more fruitful and pleasant In this County near the River Lowther Piramidal Stones near the Lowther is a Spring that Ebbs and Flows many times in a Day and in the same place there are huge Pyramidal Stones some nine Foot high and thirteen Foot thick pitched directly in a row for a Mile together Cataracks near Kendale and placed at equal distances from each other and in the River Ken near Kendale are two Cataracks or Water-falls where the Waters descend with a great and mighty noise and when that which standeth North from the Neighbours living between them sounds clearer and lowder than the other they certainly look for fair or foul Weather to follow but when that on the South-side doth so they look for Foggs and Showers of Rain Appleby We arrived at Appleby a Town in this County memorable for its Antiquity and Situation having formerly been a Roman Station and standing very pleasantly being almost encompassed with the River Eden over which it has a Stone Bridge but so slenderly inhabited and the Buildings so mean that all the Beauty of it lies in one mean Street which riseth with a gentle ascent in the upper part whereof stands the Castle and in the nether end the Church and by it a School which Robert Langton and Miles Spencer Doctors of Law founded for the advancement of Learning That this Castle was surprized by William King of Scots a little before himself was taken Prisoner at Alnwick our Chronicle-inform us but King John having afterwards recovered it from the Scots bestowed it out of his Princely Favour upon Robert Vipon for some singular services he had done to him and the State Burgh under Stanemoor Six Miles further lies Burgh commonly called Burgh under Stanemoor which though now but a poor small Village was in all probability the place where stood the antient Town Vertera in which in the declining Age of the Roman Empire the Band of the Directores kept their Station which Opinion is the more likely becase the distance thereof from Levatra or Bows on the one side and Brovonacum or Appleby on the other being reduced to Italian Miles do exactly agree with Antonines Computation as Cambden observes out of his Itinerary and further for that the High-street of the Romans as is yet evidently apparent by the Ridges thereof leads this way directly to Brovonacum or Appleby But besides this there is nothing here remarkable at all excepting only that in the beginning of the Norman government the Northern English conspired here first against William the Conquerour and that the most Heroick King Edward the First died here of a Dysentery A. D. 1307. and was buried at Westminster When we were past Burgh we began to climb that hilly and solitary Country exposed to Wind and Weather Stanemoor which because 't is all Rocky and Stony is called in the Northern Dialect Stanemoor and here round about us we beheld nothing but a rough wide mountainous Desart save only a poor homely Hostelry rather than an Inn in the very midst thereof called the Spittle on Stanemoor to entertain Travellers and near to it a Fragment of a Cross which we call Rere-Cross Rere-Cross and the Scots Re-Cross i. e. the King 's Cross which formerly served as a Land-mark betwixt the two Kingdoms the same being erected upon a Peace concluded between William the Conquerour and Malcolm King of Scots with the Arms of England on the South-side and those of Scotland on the North and a little lower upon the Roman High-way stood a small Fort built four-square which they called the Maiden Castle from whence as the Borderers reported the said High-way went with many Windings in and out as far as to Carevorran in Northumberland After we had made a shift to scramble over these Mountains we found a little Village on the other side called Bows Bows the same which I observed before Antonine calls Levatra in which was formerly a small Castle belonging to the Earls of Richmond where in was a certain Custom called Thorough Toll and their Jus furcarum i. e. power to hang c. Through this place lies the Road to Richmond Richmond the chief Town hereabouts encompassed with a Wall out of which are three Gates now well peopled and frequented It was built upon the Norman Conquest by Alan Earl of Bretagne who reposing small trust in Gilling a place or manner of his own hard by to withstand the Violence of the Danes and English whom the Normans had despoiled of their Inheritance fenced it with a Wall and a Castle which standing upon a Rock looks down upon the Swale over which it has a Stone bridge which River was reputed Sacred by the ancient English for that Paulinus the first Arch-Bishop of York Baptized in it in one Day above Ten thousand Men besides Women and Children and then gave it the Name of Richmond as a place of Strength and Beauty Here is held a great Market to the benefit of the Country who expose to Sale great quantities of Stockings which being bought up at cheap Rates are afterwards sent into other parts of the Nation This Town gives name to five Wapentakes or Hundreds within its Jurisdiction from hence called Richmond-shire Richmondshire a wild and hilly tract of Ground but yielding good Grass in some places the Hills are stored with Lead Coals and Copper and on the tops or surface thereof are found many times Stones like Sea Winkles Cockles Muscles and other Fish which saith Cambden are either natural or else are the Relicts of Noah's Flood petrified Orosius speaks as much of Oysters of Stone found upon Hills far from the Sea which have been eaten in hollow by the Water in all likelyhood these stone Fishes are of the same kind which some Naturalists have discovered at Alderby in Glocester-shire and I my self have since taken up upon the high Cliffs near Folk-stone in Kent which I shall describe more particularly when I come to speak of that place But to return on our way out of Richmond-shire we made an entrance into the West-Riding of York-shire where we were first saluted by Rippon Rippon situated upon the River Vre which divides the North and West-Riding and is full of Crea-Fishes the breed whereof as they say was brought out of the South parts by Sir Christopher Medcalfe It received all its Dignity and ancient renown from a Monastery built here A. D. 660. by Wilfrid Arch Bishop
Prince unawares in the Breast of which he died immediately and was brought hither and buried in this place though afterwards they say his Bones were translated and put into the same Coffin with those of King Canutus At the West End of the Quire stand two Statues in Brass very curiously wrought the one of King James I. and the other of his Son King Charles I. of Blessed Memory but that which is most remarkable in this Cathedral is the rich and famous Monument of William of Wickham who from a mean Beginning by the Favour of Edward III. was created Bishop of Winchester and having after this run likewise through all the Grand Stages of Temporal Honour in this Kingdom though now and then the Wheel of Fortune turn'd very cross against him he by that means became no less a Benefactour to the Church than he still approved himself an Ornament to the State and to perpetuate his Name with the greater Glory to succeeding Generations he built in this City a College and liberally endow'd it for the Education of Youth and for a Seminary to New College in Oxford also founded by him and notwithstanding the great Expences he must needs have been at in Erecting two such large and noble Structures as these were he Re-built likewise the present Body of the Cathedral where his own Body lies Interr'd Nor did all this lessen his Charity or diminish his Hospitality for he fed both Rich and Poor as his Tomb Stone informs us and for all this died exceeding Rich and deceasing in the Reign of King Henry IV. when he was Fourscore years old he bequeathed great Legacies to Persons of all Degrees and gave something at his Death to every Church throughout his Diocess * See the Life of this Great and Worthy Prelate VVrote by Tho. Chandler Chancellour of Oxford Angl. Sacr. Pars a. p. 355. Here is one thing yet further not to be pass'd by in Silence That when King Alfred divided his Kingdom into Counties Hundreds and Tythings he had an Inquisition taken and digested into a Register call'd Dome-boc which was reposited in the Church of Winchester thence call'd Codex Wintoniensis a Model afterward followed by William the Conquerour in his Domes-Day Book which Mr. Kennet observes was for some time kept in the same Church But to return again into our Discourse relating to the City we find it not only to have attain'd a great Eminency for its Religious Houses for its pleasant Gardens for its Brooks and Meadows for its publick and private Edifices for its great Hall wherein the Assizes are usually held for the County of Southampton not to be parallell'd for length and breadth by any throughout this Nation except Westminster but likewise for the true and exact Rules of Equity and Justice which are follow'd and prescrib'd by its chief Magistrates and Governours and before we take our leaves of it we shall add for a Conclusion that as in the time of Athelstane King of the West Saxons that Invincible Hero Guy Earl of Warwick is reported in a single Combat to have slain Colobraild the Danish Giant in Hide-Mead near this City so Waltheof Earl of Northumberland being beheaded here without the Walls in the Reign of William the Conquerour is observ'd as the very first Example of Beheading in this Island Having took a sufficient Prospect of the great Curiosities of this place Surrey we advanc'd forward into Surrey q. d. South Rey from its Situation on the Southside of the Thames the Saxons calling that Rey which we term a River The Skirts of this County are noted for their Fruitfulness and the middle parts for their Barrenness which has occasion'd the saying That Surrey is like a course piece of Cloth with a fine List However in point of Health the middle parts have the advantage besides the Pleasure they yield by their Downs in Hunting and Horse-Races 'T is adorn'd is most places with very stately Palaces of Gentlemen and Merchants who by reason of the Parks well stor'd with Deer and the Rivers replenished with Fish have no Divertisement wanting to recreate their Bodies and gratifie their Senses The first Town of Note we ariv'd at here was Farnham Farnham receiving its Denomination very probably from the great quantity of Fern which grows thereabouts 'T is a Town of no very large Extent but situated in a wholsom Soil and a pleasant Air and for its further Accommodation hath the conveniencies of a Market for those Commodities which the Inhabitants mostly want Here it was that in the year 894 saith the Saxon Chronicle King Alfred routed a great Army of the Danes with a small Party taking from them a considerable Booty and putting them to flight to the River Colne in Essex After this when King Stephen gave a general Toleration for building Castles and Fortresses Henry his Brother then Bishop of Winchester built for himself in this place a magnificent Castle but proving in length a Nursery and Receptacle for Sedition and Rebellion King Henry III. quite demolish'd and pull'd it down though afterwards it was again Re-edified by the Bishops of Winchester to whom it peculiarly belongs and is at present a glorious Seat for the Prelates of that See Guilford Passing from hence through Guilford a Town of good Note seated on the River Wey consisting of three Parishes well frequented and full of fair Inns we observ'd here still the Ruines of a large old Castle near the River and have since learnt That the Saxon Kings had formerly a Royal Mansion here in whose times it was a place of a greater Extent Kingston Coming after this to Kingston a Market-Town of good Resort we were inform'd that it went anciently by the Name of Moreford but after that chang'd its Name to Kingston when it had the Honour to become a place for the Coronation of the Saxon Monarchs Athelstan Edwin and Ethelred being here Crown'd Kings upon an open Stage in the Market-place Richmond And now we began to draw near to our Journies end but calling in at Richmond heretofore call'd Sheen we found it still a Town of a considerable Account though perhaps no less in the Reign of King Edward III. who when he had lived sufficiently both to Glory and Nature died at this very place King Henry VII gave it the Name of Richmond from the Title he bore before he obtain'd the Crown of England and ended his Life here as did after him here likewise the most Glorious and Puissant Queen Elizabeth From hence pacing along by the Noble River Thames which is on both sides of it wonderfully graced with many pleasant Towns and Villages we arriv'd again in safety at the Renown'd Metropolis of England The End of the First Journey To the Right Worshipful George Elcock of Barham Esq One of His Majesty's Justices of the Peace for the County of Kent SIR THE great Civilities you are naturally inclined to shew all Travellers who have seen and
return into England sickned and dyed here July the 6th A. D. 1325 so likewise that this Town gave Birth to some Persons of the worthy Family of the Harveys especially to that Noble 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the great Father of Phisitians the Learned Dr. Harvey who made the first discovery of the Circulation of the Blood by the munificence of which charitable Fratermity was erected a Free-School to the great benefit of the Town to which is allotted a very handsome allowance as also a comfortable Pension to be annually distributed amongst the poor of the Parish and to the end that all things may be fully Executed according to the first Charitable design there are appointed diverse Feoffees in trust to supervise herein who are Men of the best Condition and quality in that part of the County Near this Town upon the Cliffs we met with some Stones of diverse Shapes and Figures very strange and wonderful some resemble a Muscle but are a great deal bigger than they others were like a Kernel of an Almond large and somwhat roundish which are Streaked and crankled like a Cockle-shell but of a more dusky colour others we found somewhat bigger than a Hazlenut and some much less which are like a Cockle too but are as smooth and as black as Jet some we discovered which were wreath'd and intorted like Screws of smaller and larger dimensions others which resemble Cock-spurs being sharp at the end and in every respect shaped like unto them but as smooth and of the same colour with our ordinary Flint-stone others which are form'd like Quills cleer as Amber some we observed whose lower parts seem to be effigiated into diverse little Feet bearing a resemblance to those that are visible in some little creeping insects others altogether resemble Snakes * See Mr John Ray Fellow of the Royal Society concerning Serpent Stones and Petrified Shells P. 113.114 c. of his Topographical observations Printed 1673. with Heads which the VVhitbay Stones are without having a perfect Spina running as it were all along their Back from Head to Tail with little ridges like Ribs on both sides in the form almost of a Roman S. Now tho' the solidity of all these Stones without any Cavity which is visible amongst them may be sufficient to convince any Man that they are by no means petrifications but natural and such as they were always from the Creation though how they came to put on such strange and uncommon Figures is a secret not to be unravelled yet certainly since there are diverse real and natural Shells of Fishes too which are to be found upon these Cliffs as likewise have been gathered upon Mountains particularly in Richmondshire before mentioned far enough remote from the Sea of diverse magnitudes shapes and colours sure in all probability the latter must needs have been left there upon the ebb of the Deluge since otherwise there can hardly be any other satisfactory account given how such Shells should happen to be carried to such Mountainous places From Folk-stone for five or six Miles together is a continued Chain of chalky Hills standing in a row hanging jointly one to another about the middle whereof is a Catarackt of Water which coming a great way as is supposed under Ground and falling down from the Cliffs speeds away to Sea going usually by the name of Lyddals Spout and along these Cliffs grow abundance of that excellent sallad Lydal Spout which they call Samphire These Cliffs I say continue without the least interruption till they are parted by Dover which is seated betwixt two high Cliffs Dover lying opposite to each other on the one whereof stands the Castle a place formerly of that strength and importance that it is Styled by Antiquaries the Key and Lock the Bar and Spar of England and was ever reputed so mightily conducive to the facilitating the Conquest of this Nation by getting it into Possession that Philip King of France told his Son Lewis that notwithstanding he had obtained many signal Victories in this Island and won several Forts and strong holds therein yet he had not one Foot in England till he was Master of Dover Castle Which though some are of Opinion was founded by Arviragus a King of the Britains yet Mr. Somner is very possitive against those who would have it built by Julius Caesar whose abode in Britain was too short for so vast an undertaking however whether the ancient Church belonging to this Castle was built by Lucius our first Christian King or not Mr. Somner is again pretty well assured that as here was formerly placed a Roman Garrison so the Square Tower in the middle between the Body and the Chancel fitted with holes on all parts for speculation was formerly a Roman Specula or Watch-Tower and he farther observes out of Tuine that that which at this Day they call the Devils Drop being a mouldring ruinous heap of Masonrey on the opposite Hill on the other side of the Town was the remains of a Roman Pharos or Structure of theirs intended for the placing of Night lights to secure their Passage otherwise very perillous who should put into this Port by Night On this Hill in a Tenterected for that purpose was that Noble Ceremony performed of Inaugurating the Right Honourable Henry Earl of Romney into that great and Weighty Office of Constable of Dover Castle and Lord Warden of the Cinque-Ports June 1. 1694 being there waited upon by the Barons Mayors Baliffs and Jurats of the Cinque-Ports two ancient Towns and their Members with diverse other Persons of great Quality who attended that Solemnity Below the Castle is placed a strong Fort and on the other Cliff opposite to it is erected another both which Block-Houses are for the defence of the Haven or Peer which of late Years hath been almost choaked and quite Stopped up by a huge quantity of Beach thrown into it by the Sea however by reason of a ready and speedy passage to Callice in France to which some will fain have England to have been formerly united by an Isthmus there is daily in times of peace a great concourse of Foreigners who frequent it The Town being one of the Cinque-Ports of which Folk-stone is a Limb and governed by a Mayor and Jurats is of a good large extent being above a Mile in length from * Artclff Fort. Artcliff Fort to the farther end of Bigginstreet but 't is nothing so Populous nor so well Inhabited as formerly 't is adorned with two Churches and a commodious Market place which is well replenished every Saturday with all necessary Provision of which there is brought great supplies constantly out of the Country and for the Victualling the Kings Ships there is a large Store-House from whence Provisions are conveyed to the Navy But I must not omit farther to observe that in this Town was formerly a House belonging to that ancient order of the Knights Templars wherein was Sealed the submission