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A13485 The pennyles pilgrimage, or The money-lesse perambulation, of Iohn Taylor, alias the Kings Majesties water-poet How he trauailed on foot from London to Edenborough in Scotland, not carrying any money to or fro, neither begging, borrowing, or asking meate, drinke or lodging. With his description of his entertainment in all places of his iourney, and a true report of the vnmatchable hunting in the brea of Marre and Badenoch in Scotland. With other obseruations, some serious and worthy of memory, and some merry and not hurtfull to be remembred. Lastly that (which is rare in a trauailer) all is true. Taylor, John, 1580-1653. 1618 (1618) STC 23784; ESTC S118255 31,268 54

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of enemies that Royall Crowne and Scepter hath from one hundred and seauen descents keepe still vnconquered and by the power of the King of Kings through the grace of the Prince of peace is now left peacefully to our peacefull King whom long in blessed peace the God of peace defend and gouerne But once more a word or two of Edinborough although I haue scarcely giuen it that due which belongs vnto it for their lofty and stately buildings and for their faire and spacious streete yet my minde perswades me that they in former ages that first founded that Citie did not so well in that they built it in so discommodious a place for the Sea and all nauigable Riuers being the chiefe meanes for the enriching of Townes and Cities by the reason of Traffique with forraigne Nations with exportation transportation and receite of variety of Marchantdizing so this Citie had it beene built but one mile lower on the Sea side I doubt not but it had long before this beene comparable to many a one of our greatest Townes and Cities in Europe both for spaciousnesse of bounds Port state and riches It is said that King Iames the fifth of famous memorie did graciously offer to purchase for them and to bestow vpon them freely certaine lowe and pleasant grounds a mile from them on the Sea shore with these conditions that they should pull downe their Citie and build it in that more commodious place but the Citizens refused it and so now it is like for me to stand where it doth for I doubt such another proffer of remoueall will not be presented to them till two dayes after the Faire Now haue with you for Leeth whereto I no sooner came but I was well entertained by Mr. Barnard Lindsay one of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed-chamber hee knew my estate was not guilty because I brought no guilt with mee more then my sinnes and they would not passe for current there hee therefore did replenish the vaustity of my emptie purse and discharged a peece at mee with two bullets of gold each being in value worth eleuen shillings white money and I was credibly informed that within the compasse of one yeare there was shipped away from that onely Port of Leeth fourescore thousand Boles of Wheate Oates and Barley into Spaine France and other forraigne parts and euery Bole containes the measure of foure English bushels so that from Leeth onely hath beene transported three hundred and twenty thousand bushels of Corne besides some hath beene shipped away from St. Andrewes from Dundee Aberdeene Disert Kirkady Kinghorne Burnt-Iland Dunbar and other portable Townes which makes mee to wonder that a Kingdome so populous as it is should neuerthelesse sell so much bread corne beyond the Seas and yet to haue more then sufficient for themselues So I hauing viewed the Hauen and Towne of Leeth tooke a passage Boate to see the new wondrous Well to which many a one that is not well comes farre and neere in hope to be made well indeede I did heare that it had done much good and that it hath a rare operation to expell or kill diuers maladies as to prouoke appetite to helpe much for the auoyding of the grauell in the bladder to cure sore eyes and olde vlcers with many other vertues which it hath but I through the mercy of God hauing no neede of it did make no great inquisition what it had done but for nouelty I dranke of it and I found the taste to be more pleasant then any other water sweet almost as milke yet as cleare as cristall and I did obserue that though a man did drinke a quart a pottell or as much as his belly could containe yet it neuer offended or lay heauie vpon the stomacke no more then if one had dranke but a pint or a small quantity I went two miles from it to a towne called Burnt-Iland where I found many of my especiall good friends as M. Robert Hay one of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed-chamber Maister Dauid Drummond one of his Gentlemen Pentioners Maister Iames Acmooty one of the Groomes of the Priuie Chamber Captaine M●rray Sir Henry Witherington Knight Captaine Tyrie and diuers others and there Master Hay Maister Drummond and the good olde Captaine Murray did very bountifully furnish mee with gold for my expences but I being at dinner with those aforesaid Gentlemen as we were discoursing there befell a strange accident which I thinke worth the relating I know not vpon what occasion they began to talke of being at Sea in former times and I amongst the rest said I was at the taking of Cales whereto an English Gentleman replied that he was the next good voyage after at the Ilands I answered him that I was there also He demanded in what Ship I was I tolde him in the Rainebowe of the Queenes why quoth hee doe you not know mee I was in the same Ship and my name is Witherington Sir said I I doe remember the name well but by reason that it is neere two and twenty yeeres since I saw you I may well forget the knowledge of you well said hee if you were in that Ship I pray you tell me some remarkable token that happened in the voyage whereupon I tolde him two or three tokens which hee did know to be true Nay then said I I will tell you another which perhaps you haue not forgotten as our Ship and the rest of the fleete did ride at Anchor at the I le of Flores one of the Isles of the Azores there were some fourteene men and boyes of our Ship that for nouelty would goe a shore and see what fruit the I land did beare and what entertainement it would yeeld vs so being landed wee went vp and downe and could finde nothing but stones heath and mosse and wee expected Oranges Limonds Figges Muske-millions and Potatoes in the meane space the winde did blow so stiffe and the Sea was so extreame rough that our Ship-boate could not come to the land to fetch vs for feare she should be beaten in pieces against the rockes this continued fiue dayes so that wee were all almost famished for want of foode but at last I squandring vp and downe by the prouidence of God I happened into a Caue or poore habitation where I found fifteene loaues of bread each of the quantity of a penny loafe in England I hauing a valiant stomacke of the age of almost 120. houres breeding fell too and eate two loaues and neuer said grace and as I was about to make a Horse-loafe of the third loafe I did put 12. of them into my breeches and my sleeues and so went mumbling out of the Caue leaning my backe against a tree when vpon the sodaine a Gentleman came to me and saide friend what are you eating bread quoth I for Gods sake said hee giue me some with that I put my hand into my breech beeing my best pantrey and I gaue him a Loafe
his men to bring mee to a place called Adam to Master Iohn Acmootye his house one of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed-chamber where with him and his two brethren Master Alexander and Master Iames Acmootye I found both Cheere and Welcome not inferiour to any that I had had in any former place Amongst our viands that wee had there I must not forget the Sole and Goose a most delicate Fowle which breedes in great aboundance in a little Rocke called the Basse which stands two miles into the Sea It is very good flesh but it is eaten in the forme as wee eate Oysters standing at a side-boord a little before dinner vnsanctified without grace and after it is eaten it must be well liquored with two or three good rowses of Sherrie or Canarie sacke The Lord or Owner of the Basse doth profite at the least two hundred pound yearely by those Geese the Basse it selfe being of a great height and neere three quarters of a mile in campasse all fully replenished with Wildfowle hauing but one small entrance into it with a house a garden and a Chappell in it and on the toppe of it a Well of pure fresh water From Adam Mr. Iohn and Mr. Iames Acmootye went to the Towne of Dunbarr with mee where tenne Scottish pintes of wine were consumed and brought to nothing for a farewell there at Master Iames Baylies house I tooke leaue and Master Iames Acmootye comming for England said that if I would ride with him that neither I nor my horse should want betwixt that place and London Now I hauing no money or meanes for trauell beganne at once to examine my manners and my want at last my want perswaded my manners to accept of this worthy Gentlemans vndeserued courtesie So that night hee brought mee to a place called Cober spath where wee lodged at an Inne the like of which I dare say is not in any of his Maiesties Dominions And for to shewe my thankfulnesse to Master William Arnet and his wife the owners thereof I must a little explaine their bonntifull entertainement of guests which is this Suppose tenne fifteene or twentie men and horses come to lodge at their house the men shall haue flesh tame and wild-fowle fish with all varietie of good cheere good lodging and welcome and the horses shall want neither hay or prouender and in the morning at their departure the reckoning is iust nothing This is this worthy Gentlemans vse his chiefe delight beeing onely to giue strangers entertainement gratis And I am sure that in Scotland beyond Edinbrough I haue beene at houses like Castles for building the Master of the house his Beauer being his blew Bonnet one that will weare no other shirts but of the Flaxe that growes in his owne ground and of his wiues daughters or seruants spinning that hath his Stockings Hose and Ierkin of the Wooll of his owne sheepes backes that neuer by his pride of Apparell caused Mercer Draper Silke-man Embroyderer or Haberdasher to breake and turne bankerupt and yet this plaine home-spunne fellow keepes and maintaines thirtie fourtie fiftie seruants or perhaps more euery day releeuing three or fourescore poore people at his gate and besides all this can giue Noble entertainement for foure or fiue dayes together to fiue or sixe Earles and Lords besides Knights Gentlemen their followers if they be three or foure hundred men and horse of them where they shall not onely feed but feast and not feast but banquet this is a man that desires to know nothing so much as his duty to God and his King whose greatest cares are to practise the works of Piety Charity and Hospitality hee neuer studies the consuming Art of fashionlesse fashions hee neuer tries his strength to beare foure or fiue hundred Acres on his backe at once his legges are alwayes at liberty not being fettered with golden garters and manacled with artificiall Roses whose weight sometime is the last Relliques of some decayed Lordship Many of these worthy house-keepers there are in Scotland amongst some of them I was entertained from whence I did truely gather these aforesaid obseruations So leauing Coberspath we rode to Barwicke where the worthy old Soldier and ancient Knight Sir William Bowyer made me welcome but contrary to his will we lodged at an Inne where Mr. Iames Acmooty paid all charges but at Barwicke there was a grieuous chance hapned which I think not fit the relation to be omitted In the Riuer of Tweed which runnes by Barwicke are taken by Fishermen that dwell there infinite numbers of fresh Salmons so that many housholds and families are relieued by the profit of that Fishing but how long since I know not there was an order that no man or boy whatsoeuer should Fish vpon a Sunday This order continued long amongst them till some eight or nine weekes before Michaelmas last on a Sunday the Salmons plaid in such great aboundance in the Riuer that some of the Fishermen contrary to Gods law and their owne order tooke boates and nettes and Fished and caught neere three hundred Salmons but from that time vntill Michaelmas day that I was there which was nine weekes and heard the report of it and saw the poore peoples miserable lamentations they had not seene one Salmon in the Riuer and some of them were in despaire that they should neuer see any more there affirming it to be God Iudgement vpon them for the prophanation of the Saboth The thirtieth of September wee rode from Barwicke to Belford from Belford to Anwick the next day from Anwick to Newcastle where I found the noble Knight Sir Henry Witherington who because I would haue no gold nor siluer gaue mee a bay Mare in requitall of a loafe of bread that I had giuen him two and twenty yeares before at the lland of Flores of the which I haue spoken before I ouertooke at Newcastle a great many of my worthy friends which were all comming for London namely Maister Robert Hay and Maister Dauid Drummond where I was well welcom'd at Maister Nicholas Tempests house From Newcastle I rode with those Gentlemen to Durham to Darington to Northallerton and to Topeliffe in Yorkshire where I tooke my leaue of them and would needs try my pennilesse fortunes by my selfe and see the Citty of Yorke where I was lodged at my Right Worshipfull good friends Maister Doctor Hudson one of his Maiesties Chaplaines who went with me and shewed me the goodly Minster Church there and the most admirable rare-wrought vnfellowed Chapter house From Yorke I rode to Doncaster where my horses were well fed at the Beare but my selfe found out the honourable Knight Sir Robert Anstruther at his father in lawes the truely noble Sir Robert Swifts house hee being then high Sheriffe of Yorkeshire where with their good Ladies and the right Honourable the Lord Sanquhar I was stayed two nights and one day Sir Robert Anstruther I thanke him not onely paying for my two horses meat but at
Deuill in his feathers and after supper a fire of firre wood as high as an indifferent May-pole for I assure you that the Earle of Marre will giue any man that is his friend for thankes as many Firre trees that are as good as any shippes mastes in England as are worth if they were in any place neere the Thames or any other portable Riuer the best Earledome in England or Scotland either For I dare affirme hee hath as many growing there as would serue for mastes from this time to the end of the world for all the Shippes Carackes Hoyes Galleyes Boates Drumlers Barkes and Water-craftes that are now or can bee in the world these fourtie yeares This sounds like a lie to an vnbeleeuer but I and many thousands doe knowe that I speake within the compasse of truth for indeede the more is the pitie they doe growe so farre from any passage of water and withall in such rockie Mountaines that no way to conuey them is possible to bee passable either with Boate Horse or Cart. Thus hauing spent certaine dayes in Hunting in the Brea of Marr wee went to the next Countie called Bagenoch belonging to the Earle of Engye where hauing such sport and entertainement as wee formerly had after foure or fiue dayes pastime wee tooke leaue of hunting for that yeare and tooke our iourney toward a strong house of the Earles called Ruthen in Bagenoch where my Lord of Engye and his noble Countesse being daughter to the Earle of Argile did giue vs most noble welcome three dayes From thence wee went to a place called Ballo Castle a faire and stately house a worthy Gentleman beeing the owner of it called the Lard of Graunt his wife beeing a Gentlewoman honourably descended being sister to the right Honourable Earle of Atholl and to Sir Patricke Murray Knight shee beeing both inwardly and outwardly plentifully adorned with the guifts of Grace and Nature so that our cheere was more then sufficient and yet much lesse then they could affoord vs. There staied there foure dayes foure Earles one Lord diuers Knights and Gentlemen and their seruants footemen and horses and euery meale foure long Tables furnished with all varieties Our first and second course beeing threescore Dishes at one boord and after that alwayes a Banquet and there if I had not forsworne wine till I came to Edinbrough I thinke I had there dranke my last The fifth day with much adoe wee gate from thence to Tarnaway a goodly house of the Earle of Murrayes ●●here that right Honourable Lord and his Ladie did welcome vs foure dayes more There was good cheere in all varietie with somewhat more then plentie for aduantage for indeed the Countie of Murray is the most pleasantess and plentifullest Countrey in all Scotland being plaine land that a Coach may bee driuen more then foure and thirtie myles one way in it all alongst by the Sea-coast From thence I went to Elgen in Murray an auncient Citie where there stood a faire and beautifull Church with three steeples the walles of it and the steeples all yet standing but the Roofe Windowes and many Marble Monuments and Toombes of honourable and worthie personages all broken and defaced this was done in the time when ruine bare rule and Knox knock'd downe Churches From Elgen we went to the B. of Murray his house which is called Spinye or Spinaye A reuerend Gentleman hee is of the noble name of Dowglasse where wee were very well welcomed as befitted the honour of himselfe and his guests From thence wee departed to the Lord Marquesse of Huntleyes to a sumptuous house of his named the Bogg of Geethe where our entertainement was like himselfe free bountifull and honourable There after two dayes stay with much entreatie and earnest suite I gate leaue of the Lords to depart towards Edinbrough the Noble Marquesse the Earles of Marr Murray Engie Bughan and the Lord Erskin all these I thanke them gaue me gold to defray my charges in my iourney So after fiue and thirtie dayes hunting and trauell I returning past by another stately mansion of the Lord Marquesses called Stroboggy and so ouer Carny mount to Breekin where a wench that was borne deafe and dumbe came into my chamber at mid-night I beeing asleepe and shee opening the bed would faine haue lodged with mee But had I beene a Sardanapalus or a Heliogobalus I thinke that either the great trauell ouer the Mountaines had tamed me or if not her beautie could neuer haue mooued me The best parts of her were that her breath was as sweet as sugar-carrion being very well shouldered beneath the waste and as my Hostesse tolde mee the next morning that shee had changed her Maiden-head for the price of a Bastard not long before But howsoeuer shee made such a hideous noyse that I started out of my sleepe and thought that the Deuill had beene there but I no sooner knewe who it was but I arose and thrust my dumbe beast out of my chamber and for want of a locke or a latch I staked vp my doore with a great chaire Thus hauing escaped one of the seuen deadly sinnes at Breekin I departed from thence to a Towne called Forfard and from thence to Dundee and so to Kinghorne Burnt Iland and so to Edinbrough where I stayed eight dayes to recouer my selfe of falles and bruises which I receiued in my trauell in the high-land mountainous Hunting Great welcome I had shewed mee all my stay at Edinbrough by many worthy Gentlemen namely olde Master George Todrigg Master Henry Leuingston Master Iames Henderson Master Iohn Maxwell and a number of others who suffered me to want no wine or good cheere as may be imagined Now the day before I came from Edinbrough I went to Leeth where I found my long approoued and assured good friend Master Beniamin Iohnson at one Master Iohn Stuarts house I thanke him for his great kindnesse towards mee for at my taking leaue of him hee gaue mee a piece of golde of two and twentie shillings to drinke his health in England And withall willed mee to remember his kinde commendations to all his friendes So with a friendly farewell I left him as well as I hope neuer to see him in a worse estate for hee is amongst Noble-men and Gentlemen that knowes his true worth and their owne honours where with much respectiue loue hee is worthily entertained So leauing Leeth I return'd to Edinbrough and within the port or gate called the Netherbowe I discharged my pockets of all the money I had and as I came pennilesse within the walles of that Citie at my first comming thither so now at my departing from thence I came monesse out of it againe hauing in my company to conuey mee out certaine Gentlemen amongst the which was Master Iames Acherson Laird of Gasford a Gentleman that brought mee to his house where with great entertainement hee and his good wife did welcome me On the morrowe he sent one of