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A07834 An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson Gent. First in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres trauell through the tvvelue dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts. The I. part. Containeth a iournall through all the said twelue dominions: shewing particularly the number of miles, the soyle of the country, the situation of cities, the descriptions of them, with all monuments in each place worth the seeing, as also the rates of hiring coaches or horses from place to place, with each daies expences for diet, horse-meate, and the like. The II. part. Containeth the rebellion of Hugh, Earle of Tyrone, and the appeasing thereof: written also in forme of a iournall. The III. part. Containeth a discourse vpon seuerall heads, through all the said seuerall dominions. Moryson, Fynes, 1566-1630. 1617 (1617) STC 18205; ESTC S115249 1,351,375 915

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pressed them to confesse their sinnes and so to receiue the Lords Supper which when they refused to doe it was apparant to the Friars that they were of the reformed Religion whom they terme heretikes Whereupon the Friars beganne to neglect them I will not say to hate them and while the two which were wounded staied for recouery of their health and so detained the other two with them it happened that the third fell sicke So as none had their health now but Master Verseline who louingly and like a seruant more then a friend prouided all necessaries for his companion Master Bacon till at last himselfe also fell sicke and was the first of them that died Then within eight daies space all the rest died either for that they were neglected by the Friers which I thinke sufficient in that Countrey to cast away any in their case or by their too much care namely by poison as some suspect for the Friars haue one of their order who is skilfull in physicke and hath a chamber furnished with cooling waters sirops and other medicines most fit for that Countrey When they were dead the Friars gaue into the Turkes hands the bodies of the two Flemmings and Master Verseline who had little store of crownes which belonged to the great Turke as heire to all strangers and the Turkes permitted them to be buried vpon Mount Syon without the wals in the Church yard proper to the Christians of Europe But Master Bacon ouerliuing the rest and now seeing his life to depend vpon the Friars care of him shewed a Nouice Friar long bracelets of peeces of gold twined about his arme and promising to giue them all to him and greater rewards if he would goe with him into England so as he would take care of him in his sickenesse he had perswaded the young Friar to goe with him into England and to promise him faithfull seruice there yet when this Nouice at his confession made this knowne and after verified as much to the Guardian and chiefe Friars I know not whether the hope of this booty made him die sooner but I am sure he liued very few daies after And giue me leaue to tell the truth these Friars either to gaine his money which was due to the Great Turke or for feare that inquisition should be made by the Turkes after the cause of his death appearing by manifest signes vpon his body as others suspected and reported I say these Friers buried this Gentleman in a yard of their Monastery secretly which if the Great Turke or any of his Magistrates had knowne no doubt they would gladly haue taken this occasion to extort much money from the Frires since by the like forged accusations they vse sometimes to oppresse them the very Turkes hauing at other times themselues buried dead bodies within the circuit of the Monastery and after caused them to be digged vp as if they had beene casually found and then crying that their Ottoman was deceiued put the Friars to pay large ransomes for redeeming of their liues And let no man wonder that these hungry Gouernours of Cities and Prouinces in Turkey should vse like frauds to intrap Christians as they doe very frequently since they buy their Offices and many times are recalled before they be warme in their seats if any man at Constantinople offer larger summes for their imployment So as this one Prouince of Palestine and one City of Ierusalem though hauing small or no trafficke hath had in one yeeres space foure Zaniacci the old being recalled to Constantinople assoone as his successour had outbribed him there And this is one of the greatest mischiefes in this Empire since starueling flies sucke much more then those that are fully gorged The foresaid Zaniacco is chiefe Gouernour for military and ciuill affaires of all Pallestine and lies at Ierusalem in the house of Pontius Pilate His Substitute or Liefetenant is called Catake who cast one of our consorts for a time into prison because he complained of the Turkish exactions and his owne pouerty The third Magistrate is called Cady who gouernes Ecclesiastiall matters and dwelt in Salomons house as they call it at Ierusalem neere the yard of the old Temple of the Iewes in which now a Turkish Mosche was built and of this man we had our leaue to enter the City and to see the sepulcher and being called before him we were commanded to put off our shooes he sitting crosse leg'd like a Tailor on the ground vpon a Turkey Carpet The fourth Magistrate was called Agha who kept the Castle of Ierusalem and when we walked one euening on that part of the roofe of our Monastery whence we had the fairest prospect into the City he sent a messenger to command vs to retire from beholding the Castle or otherwise he would discharge a peece of Ordinance at vs. CHAP. III. Of our iourney from Ierusalem by land to Haleppo by Sea to Tripoli in Syria by land to Haleppo and Scanderona and of our passage by Sea to the Iland Candia VPon Friday the fourteenth of Iune in the yeere 1596 we went out of Ierusalem and by the same way and in the same manner as wee came rode backe to Ramma deliuering to our guide as many zechines as before to pay for the Turkish exactions and to our Muccari for their Asses which we had hired Neither did any memorable thing happen to vs by the way saue that when we came neere to Ramma and by chance rode ouer the place of buriall for the Turks where some women were then mourning for their dead friends they thinking it a reproch that we should ride ouer their graues did with inraged countenances fling stones at vs till wee appeased them by dismounting from our Asses The fifteenth of Iune we came backe to Ioppa where our guide gaue three meidines to a Ianizare that hee would beate with a cudgell certaine Arabians who had offered vs wrong by the way which hee did readily and roundly Then without delay we went aboard our little Greeke Barke which according to our bargaine at Cyprus staied here for our returne For the Master thereof was further tied to transport vs from hence to Tripoli in Syria neither had he yet receiued full paiment for transporting vs hither the money being left in Cyprus with an Italian Merchant who was to pay it him at his returne if hee brought a testimony vnder our hands that he had performed his bargaine to vs. This condition we made prouidently and by aduice of experienced men for otherwise the Master of our Barke vpon any profitable occasion would haue left this port before our returne from Ierusalem and wee should hardly haue found another Barke here in a place not much frequented with ships Besides that the restraint of the money not to be payed but vpon a testimony brought vnder our hands was a good caution that he should not vse vs ill nor any way betray vs. The sixteenth of Iune vpon
length of the Towne and sixe other streets make the breadth and if you stand in the midst of any of these streets you may there see both the ends thereof Here I paied each meale foure Lubeck shillings hauing my bed free for a quart of Rhenish wine fiue Lubeck shillings and as much for Sack neither doe I remember that euer I had a more pleasant abiding in Germany either for the sweetnes of the place the curtesie of the people or my diet The Citizens are very courteous to all strangers whom the Lawes extraordinarily fauour aboue the natiues so they onely abide there for a time and be not inhabitants neither are they lesse friendly to the English though they complaine of iniuries so they call them offered them by vs at Sea This City hath many things worth the seeing There be tenne faire Churches whereof one was vsed for an Armory of all munitions for warre Saint Maries Cathedrall Church vulgarly Vnserfraw kirke is fairer then the rest where there is a faire and artificiall Clocke in the top whereof is a picture whereof both the eares of the head are seene which Painters esteeme a master worke In the Porch thereof are three Marble pillars each of them thirtie foot long of one stone onely one of them is peeced for one foot But the Image of the Virgin Mary in this Church and of Christ crucified in Burk Kirke are thought workes of singular art for which they say a Spanish Merchant offered a masse of money I will confesse truely that my selfe beholding the Virgins statua all of stone did thinke it had beene couered with a gowne of white buffin and that being altogether vnskilfull in the grauing Art yet I much admired the workmanship Without Millen Port there is a Conduit of water which serues all the Towne the more notable because it was the first of that kinde which since hath beene dispersed to London and other places On al sides out of the towne there be sweet walks especially towards Hierusalem so they call the Passion of Christ grauen in diuers pillars where also is a pleasant groue vnder the shade whereof Rope-makers and like Artificers vse to worke The Canons of the Cathedrall Church haue great priuiledges and as it were an absolute power ouer themselues and of old they had a gate of the City free to themselues to goe in or out at pleasure till the Citizens finding how dangerous it was to the maintaining of their freedome from any subiection vpon a good opportunitie when the Emperour came thither did of set purpose lead him into the City by that gate where falling on their knees they besought him that it might be bricked vp and neuer more opened he being the last man that euer should enter thereat From Lubeck we tooke our iourney to Luneburg being tenne miles distant and the first night we lodged in a Village called Millen where a famous lester Oulenspiegell whom we call Owly-glasse hath a Monument erected hee died in the yeere 1350. and the stone couering him is compassed with a grate least it should bee broken and carried away peece-meale by Passengers which they say hath once already been done by the Germanes The Towns-men yeerely keepe a feast for his memory and yet shew the apparell he was wont to weare This Country is barren and sandy ground full of thicke Woods of Oakes by the way in Kasborough Castle they said that a Duke of inferior Saxony lay imprisoned by the Emperours command his brother gouerning the Dukedome charged with great debts by his prodigality but his Villages hereabouts were possessed by the Hamburgers and Lubeckers by right of morgage We passed the Elue twice the Coach-man paying for himselfe his Coach and each one of vs a Lubeck shilling and beyond the Elue the ground was somewhat more fertile At Millen I paid for my supper foure Lubeck shillings and a halfe The next day we came to Luneburg which by the Citizens for defence of their libertie was strongly fortified for it is one of the free Imperiall Cities but the Duke of Luneburg challengeth a superiority ouer it The walles built of earth are high and broad and the ditches very deepe The building is very faire especially that of the Senate house and almost all the houses are of bricke They haue two large market places and the streets are broad but very filthy and full of ill smels The City it selfe being almost of a round forme is seated in a Valley but hath Mountaines neere it on the West side and further off on the East An high Mountaine called Kalkberg hangeth ouer it on the North side in the top whereof is a strong Castle which the Citizens had got into their hands some threescore yeres before my being there Not far from the City is a Monestary called Luna whereof some say the Towne was named others say it had the name of the Riuer running by it now called Eluenau of eleuen Riuers running into it which Histories testifie to haue beene called Luna of old But others proue both the Riuer and the Towne to haue had their names of the Idol Isis bearing two hornes of the Moone which was kept in the Castle vpon Kalkberg and worshipped by the people Among the things best deseruing to be seen is the Fountaine of Salt and the house wherein salt is boyled ouer the gate whereof these verses are written Ecce salinarum dulcissima dona coquuntur Gratuita summi de bonitate Dei Mons Pons Fons tna dona Deus da pectore crescat In nostro pietas nec minuatur Amor. Behold of finest salt this Fount doth store afford By the Almighties grace and free gift from aboue The Mountaine Bridge and Fountaine are thy gifts O Lord For which let vs increase in pietie and loue To all the poore round about and to all the Citizens for their priuate vse salt water is freely giuen and they say this Fountaine once lost his vertue when they denied to giue water to the poore Euery one giues the Porter a small reward when he comes in not when he goes out as otherwhere is vsed for this is proper to the Germanes that they will be paied ere they begin to worke as if they had done The profit of this salt Fountaine is diuided into diuers parts some to the City some to the Duke of Luneberg who howsoeuer he be so called yet hath no power ouer the City but onely ouer the Countrey some belongs to the Monastary and diuers Earles haue their parts whereof some boyle not the salt in their owne name but set it out to others There be fifty two roomes and in each of them eight leaden pannes in which eight tunnes of salt are daily boyled and each tunne is worth eight Flemmish shillings In the said Monastery within the Towne they shew a table of gold which Henry Leo Duke of Saxony tooke from Milan and placed here and it is fastned to the Altar being more then an ell and
the former And the whole circuit of the City without the wals excluding the suburbes is said to be of sixe miles The market places which are in the streetes are vulgarly called Carrefours as being fouresquare and hauing passage to them on all sides and they are eleuen in number namely foure of the Butchers which vpon a sedition raised by them were diuided into foure tribes the fifth the shambles vpon the mount Saint Genouefa the sixth built for the poore which haue no shops and for the weomen which sell linnen which is vulgarly called La lingeria well knowne for the cosinages of these linnen sellers the seuenth of the brokers vulgarly called La Fripperie the eight and chiefe is in the Iland called Marshes because of the Fenny soyle the ninth is for fishes of the Riuer seated neere the tenth being the little bridge of Saint German of the Vniuersity the eleuenth is without the gate for hogges There be foureteene fountaines besides the fountaine of the Queene and that of the Innocents built of stone The Ville hath eight Hospitals the Vniuersity foure and the Iland two The description of Paris A the Gate Saint Antoine B the Bastile C the gate of the Temple D gate of Saint Martin E gate of Saint Denys F gate Mont-martre G gate Saint Honore H New gate I Le L'ouure K gate Saint Victoire L gate Marcell M gate of Saint Iames N gate Saint Michaell O gate Saint Germain P gate Bussia Q gate Nella R Cathedrall Church S Church Saint Bartholmew T the greater Pallace V Pont denostredame W Pont Au change X Pont aux musniers Y Petit pont Z Pont Saint Michaell XX Pont neuf I will begin the description of the City with the first part thereof called La ville which hath seuen gates from the South east to the North-west I will not speake of the old or inner gates of the old City which gates since the building of the new wals are called false gates as seruing for no vse Onely I will say that they were of the same number and so called as these new gates are and that King Francis the first for comelinesse sake caused them to be demolished The first of these seuen gates lies towards the South-east and is called A Saint Antoine By this gate I entered the City when I came from Chalons and without this gate I did then see the Kings Pallace not farre distant from Paris and most sweet for the seat and building called Bois du' Sainct vincent and then I passed the bridge called Calantoine being without this gate where the Riuer Matrona fals into the Seyne and so entered Paris by the gate and the Church and faire streete of Saint Antoin Neere this gate Francis the first built a fort As I came in on the left hand was the Tower B called the Bastile well knowne by that name which was begun to be built in the yeere 1369 by Hugho Ambriet Prouost of Paris and he being condemned to perpetuall prison for imputed heresie it came to the Kings hand On the same side is the Kings store-house for brasse Ordinance neere the Monastery of the Celestines in whose Church there be many marble sepulchers and among the rest one erected to Lewis of Orleans slaine by the Duke of Burgondy and to his Dutchesse Valentina daughter to the Duke of Milan by King Lewis the twelfth with learned Epitaphs On the same side is the Church of Saint Paul the House of the Queene the house of the Prouost of Paris the publike Senate-house and the place called the Greue famous by the capitall punishment of offenders For in this part of the City called Ville there be three places for the execution of Iustice the other two parts hauing not one place namely this of the Greue and that of the Temple lying on the left hand of the gate called Temple next adioining to this and the third called Luparia lying on the left hand of the scuenth gate called the new gate And from these three places the dead bodies are carried out of the gate of Saint Martin to be buried vpon Mont-falcon And giue me leaue out of order to remember you that Pierre Remy Treasurer and gouernour of France vnder King Charles the faire repaired this Mont-Falcon and that his enemies then wrote vpon the Gallowes standing there this time in French Ence gibeticy ser à pendu Pierre Remy Vpon this gybet here you see Peter Remy hanged shall be And that according to the same hee was in the time of Phillip of Valois hanged there for the ill administration of his office On the right hand as you come in by the same gate of Saint Anthony is a place for Tylting called Tournelles Not far thence at Saint Catherines Church in the Schollers valley is an inscription witnessing that a house was pulled downe to the ground for an arrow shot into the Church when the Rector of the Vniuersity was there at Masse in the yeere 1404 there being at that time a great sedition raised betweene the City and the Vniuersity about a scholler denled with dirt and that this house by permission of the Vniuersity was built againe in the yeere 1516. Also as you come into this gate on the right hand in the Monastery Saint Anthony a dried Crocodill is hung vp which a French Ambassador at Venice left there for a monument in the yeere 1515. And there is a sepulcher of the daughters of King Charles being of blacke marble with their statuaes of white marble Neere that lies the Church yard of Saint Iohn for publike buriall made in the yard of the house of Peter 〈◊〉 which was as pulled downe to the ground in the yeere 1392 because the Constable of France was wounded from thence The second gate towards the East is the gate of the C Temple neere which is the fort called Le Rastillon on your righthand as you come in and this fort or some other in this place was built by Francis the first On the lefthand as you come in is the house of the Templary Knights like a little City for the compasse and from it this gate hath the name And when this order of Knighthood was extinguished their goods were giuen to the Order of Saint Iohn The Church of this house is said to be built like that of Ierusalem and there be the monuments of Bertrand Peter Priors of France the Table of the Altar is curiously painted and here Phillip Villerius Master of the Knights of Saint Iohn was buried in the yeere 1532 to whom a statua of white marble is erected The third gate is called D Saint Martine and it lieth towards the North-east without which gate is the Suburb of Saint Laurence so called of the Church of Saint Laurence The fourth gate is called E Saint Denis and without the same is the Hospitall of Saint Lazarus and the foresaid Mount Falcon and when King Henry the fourth besieged this City he did much