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A13484 Part of this summers travels, or News from hell, Hull, and Hallifax, from York, Linne, Leicester, Chester, Coventry, Lichfield, Nottingham, and the Divells Ars a peake With many pleasant passages, worthy your observation and reading. By Iohn Taylor. Taylor, John, 1580-1653. 1639 (1639) STC 23783; ESTC S111384 21,041 54

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heartily thankfull The Towne of Nottingham is seated on a Hill which Hill is almost of one stony Rocke or a soft kinde of penetrable sandy stone it hath very faire buildings many large streetes and a spacious Market place a great number of the inhabitants especially the poorer sort doe dwell in vaults holes or caves which are cut and digged out of or within the Rocke so that if a man be destitute of a house it is but to goe to Nottingham and with a Mattock a Shovell a Crow of Iron a Chizell and Mallet and such instruments he may play the Mole the Cunny or the Pioner and worke himselfe a Hole or a Burrow for him and his family Where over their heads the grasse and pasture growes and beasts do feed faire Orchards and gardens are their coverings and Cowes are milkt upon the tops of their houses I was much befriended by Master Palmer the Iaylor there for he went with me and shewed me the sometimes strong and defencible Castle but now much ruined yet still there are many faire and sumptuous roomes in reasonable reparation and estate On the lofty Battlements of the said Castle there is a most spacious prospect round about for from thence I could see the most stately Castle of Belvoyre or Bever Castle which doth as it selfe belong to the Right Honourable the Earle of Rutland and nearer hand within three miles I saw the ancient Towne of Gotham famous for the seven Sages or Wise men who are fabulously reported to live there in former ages In the aforesaid Castle of Nottingham I was shewed divers strange wonderfull Vaults cut or hewen out of the Rocke whereof one is said to be the place where David King of Scots was detained many years in captivity where the said King with his owne hands without any other instrument than the nayles of his fingers did with the said tooles engrave and claw out the forme of our Saviours Life death and passion which Worke is there to bee seene upon the Walls Also there is another Vault or passage through the Rocke whereby men may descend or ascend out or into the Castle which vault is called Mortimers Hole through which hole as report goes the great Roger Mortimer Earle of Wigmor and Lord of Wallingford had egresse and regresse to the Queene wife to King Edward the second or the infortunate Edward of Carnarvan Thus having seene as much of Nottingham Towne and Castle as is related on the twelfth of August I road to the ancient towne of Darby On the thirteenth of August I left Darby with an intent to retire to Leister but after I had road halfe a Mile I met with an acquaintance of mine who was travailing towards the Peake in Darby shire to a Towne called Wirksworth and from thence to Chiesterfield I returned with him The Country is very Mountainous and many Lead Mines are found thereabouts the best and most richest is called Dove Gany within a mile or little more of Wirksworth corruptly called Wortsworth and two Miles from thence are most dangerous wayes stony craggy with inaccessible Hils and Mountaines the grounds there are lawfull as they told me for any man to dig or mine in for Lead be they of what condition soever for the Laws of mining is that those that will adventure their Labours shall have all the profits paying the tenth part to the Lord or Landlord of all the Lead which they get If it happen that they take pains a yeare or two in sundry places to finde a Myne if their fortune be so hard to finde none as it often falls out so they do work all that while for nothing and finde themselves as they are able and in the end their toyle and labour is all lost but if they doe hit upon a good Myne that doth hold out and yield plentifully then they may quickly enrich themselves if they be good husbands I was told of a poore Thatcher that left his Trade and venturing his time and pains he found so rich a Lead Myne that he would turn Gentleman and he kept men in Liveries living at the rate of the expence of 100 pound a week so that he supposing that Leaden Golden World would never be ended took no care to save any thing but after a while the Myne failed and hee spent that little which hee had left in digging for more could finde none so that for a conclusion he forsook the Peake and turnd Thatcher again That part of the Peak which is called the Devils Ars is at or neere a Towne named Castleton or Castle Towne so stiled from an ancient ruined Castle on a Hill at the end of the Town it is 30 miles from Darby the Castle stands on the top of a Hill and under it is a Cliff or Riffe in the said Hill which is as wide at the entrance as three Barn doores but being entred in it is enclosed again so narrow that a man must stoop to passe further but after that straight passage is past there is rooms of incredible and wonderfull greatnesse with strange and intricate turnings and windings which no man can see without great store of lights and by reason that those things are naturall and formed without any attor labour of man and with all so dismall hotrid darke and hideous that place is called the Devils Ars a Peak at or upon which I have according to my promise given three jerks with my pen at the latter end of this Book From thence I returned towards Leicester 30 miles on the 15 of August and lodged at a Market Towne called Narbury and the next day I came all tyred and weary both man and beast to Leicester and on the 20 day I took my journey 64 miles into Norfolke to the famous Town of Linne and three miles from thence at a Village called Wooton I was there well welcomed by Master Richard Miles to whom I am and must be a thankfull Brother in Law whose loving kindnesse to me was shewed in such extraordinary manner which because I cannot expresse I will remayn gratefull with silence Concerning Linne it is an excellent Sea-town and strong Port it is gravely and peaceably governed by a Major 12 Aldermen and a Recorder It hath bin honored by divers but chiefly by King John 440 yeares since and by King Henry the Third the first gave them a faire gilt Cup which is there to be seene as a witnesse of his Royall liberality and who so will know more of Linne let them goe thither and look the Records of the Town or else let them read Master Camdens Britania or the painfull labours of Master Iohn Speed The troth is mine Hoast Noble was a noble Hoast to me at whose house my brothers kindred and friends gave me a friendly farewell On Tuesday the 27 of August from Linne to Boston in Lincolnshire 24 miles where I dined with the right Worshipfull Sir Anthony Thomas Knight from Boston I road 14 miles to Horn
Major and his brethren to whose authority and power under the King the inhabitants do willingly obay Secondly the Clergy or Ministery are learned diligent and painfull and both Clergie and Layity are conformable to the Orders and Discipline of the Church of England and I did not heare of any one residing there that is either Schismatically opinionated with Dogmaticall Whimseyes or Amster-damnable Fopperies Thirdly they are so charitable and carefull in providing for the relief of the poore and needy that a man must go seek where to bestow his almes for there is not any one that I could see that begg'd in the whole Town Fourthly the streets are so well paved and kept so clean from dunghils filth or soyle that in the wettest or fowlest weather a man may go all over the Towne in a paire of slippers and never wet his feet Lastly the people are generally so loving one to another that the Lawyers want work and so honest that the Apparitors are idle and those few Drunkards which they have are very civill and faire condition'd Certain other observations There is a faire Library and a well founded Almes-house within the Town also two Gaoles two houses of Correction and for mad and frantick people Also it is reported that when King Richard the Third went from Leicester to fight the battaile neer Bosworth that then there was a man of mean calling some say he was a Weaver and some say a Plough-wright by his Trade hee had a spirit of divination or Prophecie of whom the Tyrant King Richard demanded some questions what the event of that dayes fight might be to him to whom the other most bluntly answered Marke my words King Richard that as thou dost ride out of this Towne of Leicester this morning thou shalt hit thy right foot against a stone and as thou returnest thou shalt knocke thy head against the same which proved true for as he road he did strike against the corner of a wall his foot and after hee was slain in the field hee was stript and his body layd crosse behind a man on Hors-back like a Calfe and in that vile and ignominious manner as they brought his corps back to Leicester his head did knocke against the aforesaid wall or stone which place I saw there also I went eight miles to see Red●●re field where the King fell which is a moorish kinde of ground altogether unfruitfull and the water doth seem red which some foolish people do suppose to be the staine of K. Richards bloud but it is onely the colour of the red earth that makes the water seeme so and the ground close adjoyning is very fertile for Corne and Pasturage but in the lower parts it is boggy and moory by nature and not either barren or bloudy by any reason of the Kings death Another observation is concerning the alteration of the measures of Miles and good sufficient Pots or Jugs of drink but the further I travelled Northward the more the miles were lengthened and the Pots shrunke and curtald but indeed what the liquor wanted in measure it had in strength the power of it being of such potencie that it would fox a dry Traveller before he had half quencht his thirst In this County of Leicester I observed a piece of extream justice executed upon three Geese which was thus At a Village called Dadlington eight miles from Leicester there dwelsa Gentlewoman a Kinswoman of mine who the last Trinity Tearm 1639 was at London about some businesse in Law which much concern'd her and in her absence the Pinder of Dadlington finding three of her Geese innocently grazing upon the Common for to shew the full power force vertue and marrow of his office and authority drave the Geese into the Pound or Pindfold and because they could procure no Bayle for their Release nor sureties for their true imprisonment hee put all their three necks into a Horslock which Engine or Neck-fetter was so strait close and pinching that the Geese were all strangled Now the question is whether Willy Tilly the Pinder so silly were the cause of their deaths or whether the Geese did desperately cast away themselves all which I humbly refer to the discretion of the Jury But some Readers may muse why I do write so much of Leicester in this little Book the reason is that I lay there from the 17 of July to the 20 of August which was five weekes but in the mean space I road to Coventry and return'd in a day to Leicester again of Coventry I have little to say but that it is a faire famous sweet and ancient City so walled about with such strength and neatnesse as no City in England may compare with it in the wals at severall places are 13 Gates and Posterns whereby to enter and issue too and from the City and on the wals are 18 strong defensible Towers which do also beautifie it in the City is a faire and delicate Crosse which is for structure beauty and workmanship by many men accounted unmatchable in this Kingdome although my selfe with some others do suppose that of Abington in Berkeshire will match it and I am sure the Crosse in Cheapside at London doth farre out-passe it I have bin at this City foure times and have written of it before and therefore at this time my stay being so short there I have but little to say onely this that some are of opinion that at the first itwas called Coventry from the French word Trey Covent because there were founded three Covents for three severall Orders of Friers namely the Franciscan Friers the Augustine Friers and the Dominicans It matters not much who erected the said foundations and Covents but it is certain that the renowned King Henry the Eighth did suppresse and demolish them whose memories now is almost quite buried in their owne ruines Coventry is a County of it selfe it hath been grac'd and dignified much by the Grant and Priviledges given to it by former Kings a● King Edward the Third and King Henry the Sixt The Majors name at my being there wa● Master Thomas Forrest a Vintener and Maste Thomas Phineas Sword-bearer there dyed at th● beginning of the Sessions much about the tim● of my being there he was a man of that comel● bulke and corpulency that his Coffin was a ful● yard wide at the shoulders and it is said that i● his life time hee could have been at one meale the consumption of a large shoulder of Mutton but he and his good stomack being both deceast I left Coventry because it was Sessions time and returned to my Randevouze at Leister The eleventh day of August I road from Leister to Nottingham where I lodged at the signe of the Princes Armes but I was wel entertained at the house of the Right Worshipfull Sir Thomas Hutchinson Knight himselfe and his good Lady made mee welcome and did expresse their bounty to mee in good Cheere and Money for the which I am