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A13485 The pennyles pilgrimage, or The money-lesse perambulation, of Iohn Taylor, alias the Kings Majesties water-poet How he trauailed on foot from London to Edenborough in Scotland, not carrying any money to or fro, neither begging, borrowing, or asking meate, drinke or lodging. With his description of his entertainment in all places of his iourney, and a true report of the vnmatchable hunting in the brea of Marre and Badenoch in Scotland. With other obseruations, some serious and worthy of memory, and some merry and not hurtfull to be remembred. Lastly that (which is rare in a trauailer) all is true. Taylor, John, 1580-1653. 1618 (1618) STC 23784; ESTC S118255 31,268 54

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of enemies that Royall Crowne and Scepter hath from one hundred and seauen descents keepe still vnconquered and by the power of the King of Kings through the grace of the Prince of peace is now left peacefully to our peacefull King whom long in blessed peace the God of peace defend and gouerne But once more a word or two of Edinborough although I haue scarcely giuen it that due which belongs vnto it for their lofty and stately buildings and for their faire and spacious streete yet my minde perswades me that they in former ages that first founded that Citie did not so well in that they built it in so discommodious a place for the Sea and all nauigable Riuers being the chiefe meanes for the enriching of Townes and Cities by the reason of Traffique with forraigne Nations with exportation transportation and receite of variety of Marchantdizing so this Citie had it beene built but one mile lower on the Sea side I doubt not but it had long before this beene comparable to many a one of our greatest Townes and Cities in Europe both for spaciousnesse of bounds Port state and riches It is said that King Iames the fifth of famous memorie did graciously offer to purchase for them and to bestow vpon them freely certaine lowe and pleasant grounds a mile from them on the Sea shore with these conditions that they should pull downe their Citie and build it in that more commodious place but the Citizens refused it and so now it is like for me to stand where it doth for I doubt such another proffer of remoueall will not be presented to them till two dayes after the Faire Now haue with you for Leeth whereto I no sooner came but I was well entertained by Mr. Barnard Lindsay one of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed-chamber hee knew my estate was not guilty because I brought no guilt with mee more then my sinnes and they would not passe for current there hee therefore did replenish the vaustity of my emptie purse and discharged a peece at mee with two bullets of gold each being in value worth eleuen shillings white money and I was credibly informed that within the compasse of one yeare there was shipped away from that onely Port of Leeth fourescore thousand Boles of Wheate Oates and Barley into Spaine France and other forraigne parts and euery Bole containes the measure of foure English bushels so that from Leeth onely hath beene transported three hundred and twenty thousand bushels of Corne besides some hath beene shipped away from St. Andrewes from Dundee Aberdeene Disert Kirkady Kinghorne Burnt-Iland Dunbar and other portable Townes which makes mee to wonder that a Kingdome so populous as it is should neuerthelesse sell so much bread corne beyond the Seas and yet to haue more then sufficient for themselues So I hauing viewed the Hauen and Towne of Leeth tooke a passage Boate to see the new wondrous Well to which many a one that is not well comes farre and neere in hope to be made well indeede I did heare that it had done much good and that it hath a rare operation to expell or kill diuers maladies as to prouoke appetite to helpe much for the auoyding of the grauell in the bladder to cure sore eyes and olde vlcers with many other vertues which it hath but I through the mercy of God hauing no neede of it did make no great inquisition what it had done but for nouelty I dranke of it and I found the taste to be more pleasant then any other water sweet almost as milke yet as cleare as cristall and I did obserue that though a man did drinke a quart a pottell or as much as his belly could containe yet it neuer offended or lay heauie vpon the stomacke no more then if one had dranke but a pint or a small quantity I went two miles from it to a towne called Burnt-Iland where I found many of my especiall good friends as M. Robert Hay one of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed-chamber Maister Dauid Drummond one of his Gentlemen Pentioners Maister Iames Acmooty one of the Groomes of the Priuie Chamber Captaine M●rray Sir Henry Witherington Knight Captaine Tyrie and diuers others and there Master Hay Maister Drummond and the good olde Captaine Murray did very bountifully furnish mee with gold for my expences but I being at dinner with those aforesaid Gentlemen as we were discoursing there befell a strange accident which I thinke worth the relating I know not vpon what occasion they began to talke of being at Sea in former times and I amongst the rest said I was at the taking of Cales whereto an English Gentleman replied that he was the next good voyage after at the Ilands I answered him that I was there also He demanded in what Ship I was I tolde him in the Rainebowe of the Queenes why quoth hee doe you not know mee I was in the same Ship and my name is Witherington Sir said I I doe remember the name well but by reason that it is neere two and twenty yeeres since I saw you I may well forget the knowledge of you well said hee if you were in that Ship I pray you tell me some remarkable token that happened in the voyage whereupon I tolde him two or three tokens which hee did know to be true Nay then said I I will tell you another which perhaps you haue not forgotten as our Ship and the rest of the fleete did ride at Anchor at the I le of Flores one of the Isles of the Azores there were some fourteene men and boyes of our Ship that for nouelty would goe a shore and see what fruit the I land did beare and what entertainement it would yeeld vs so being landed wee went vp and downe and could finde nothing but stones heath and mosse and wee expected Oranges Limonds Figges Muske-millions and Potatoes in the meane space the winde did blow so stiffe and the Sea was so extreame rough that our Ship-boate could not come to the land to fetch vs for feare she should be beaten in pieces against the rockes this continued fiue dayes so that wee were all almost famished for want of foode but at last I squandring vp and downe by the prouidence of God I happened into a Caue or poore habitation where I found fifteene loaues of bread each of the quantity of a penny loafe in England I hauing a valiant stomacke of the age of almost 120. houres breeding fell too and eate two loaues and neuer said grace and as I was about to make a Horse-loafe of the third loafe I did put 12. of them into my breeches and my sleeues and so went mumbling out of the Caue leaning my backe against a tree when vpon the sodaine a Gentleman came to me and saide friend what are you eating bread quoth I for Gods sake said hee giue me some with that I put my hand into my breech beeing my best pantrey and I gaue him a Loafe
his men to bring mee to a place called Adam to Master Iohn Acmootye his house one of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed-chamber where with him and his two brethren Master Alexander and Master Iames Acmootye I found both Cheere and Welcome not inferiour to any that I had had in any former place Amongst our viands that wee had there I must not forget the Sole and Goose a most delicate Fowle which breedes in great aboundance in a little Rocke called the Basse which stands two miles into the Sea It is very good flesh but it is eaten in the forme as wee eate Oysters standing at a side-boord a little before dinner vnsanctified without grace and after it is eaten it must be well liquored with two or three good rowses of Sherrie or Canarie sacke The Lord or Owner of the Basse doth profite at the least two hundred pound yearely by those Geese the Basse it selfe being of a great height and neere three quarters of a mile in campasse all fully replenished with Wildfowle hauing but one small entrance into it with a house a garden and a Chappell in it and on the toppe of it a Well of pure fresh water From Adam Mr. Iohn and Mr. Iames Acmootye went to the Towne of Dunbarr with mee where tenne Scottish pintes of wine were consumed and brought to nothing for a farewell there at Master Iames Baylies house I tooke leaue and Master Iames Acmootye comming for England said that if I would ride with him that neither I nor my horse should want betwixt that place and London Now I hauing no money or meanes for trauell beganne at once to examine my manners and my want at last my want perswaded my manners to accept of this worthy Gentlemans vndeserued courtesie So that night hee brought mee to a place called Cober spath where wee lodged at an Inne the like of which I dare say is not in any of his Maiesties Dominions And for to shewe my thankfulnesse to Master William Arnet and his wife the owners thereof I must a little explaine their bonntifull entertainement of guests which is this Suppose tenne fifteene or twentie men and horses come to lodge at their house the men shall haue flesh tame and wild-fowle fish with all varietie of good cheere good lodging and welcome and the horses shall want neither hay or prouender and in the morning at their departure the reckoning is iust nothing This is this worthy Gentlemans vse his chiefe delight beeing onely to giue strangers entertainement gratis And I am sure that in Scotland beyond Edinbrough I haue beene at houses like Castles for building the Master of the house his Beauer being his blew Bonnet one that will weare no other shirts but of the Flaxe that growes in his owne ground and of his wiues daughters or seruants spinning that hath his Stockings Hose and Ierkin of the Wooll of his owne sheepes backes that neuer by his pride of Apparell caused Mercer Draper Silke-man Embroyderer or Haberdasher to breake and turne bankerupt and yet this plaine home-spunne fellow keepes and maintaines thirtie fourtie fiftie seruants or perhaps more euery day releeuing three or fourescore poore people at his gate and besides all this can giue Noble entertainement for foure or fiue dayes together to fiue or sixe Earles and Lords besides Knights Gentlemen their followers if they be three or foure hundred men and horse of them where they shall not onely feed but feast and not feast but banquet this is a man that desires to know nothing so much as his duty to God and his King whose greatest cares are to practise the works of Piety Charity and Hospitality hee neuer studies the consuming Art of fashionlesse fashions hee neuer tries his strength to beare foure or fiue hundred Acres on his backe at once his legges are alwayes at liberty not being fettered with golden garters and manacled with artificiall Roses whose weight sometime is the last Relliques of some decayed Lordship Many of these worthy house-keepers there are in Scotland amongst some of them I was entertained from whence I did truely gather these aforesaid obseruations So leauing Coberspath we rode to Barwicke where the worthy old Soldier and ancient Knight Sir William Bowyer made me welcome but contrary to his will we lodged at an Inne where Mr. Iames Acmooty paid all charges but at Barwicke there was a grieuous chance hapned which I think not fit the relation to be omitted In the Riuer of Tweed which runnes by Barwicke are taken by Fishermen that dwell there infinite numbers of fresh Salmons so that many housholds and families are relieued by the profit of that Fishing but how long since I know not there was an order that no man or boy whatsoeuer should Fish vpon a Sunday This order continued long amongst them till some eight or nine weekes before Michaelmas last on a Sunday the Salmons plaid in such great aboundance in the Riuer that some of the Fishermen contrary to Gods law and their owne order tooke boates and nettes and Fished and caught neere three hundred Salmons but from that time vntill Michaelmas day that I was there which was nine weekes and heard the report of it and saw the poore peoples miserable lamentations they had not seene one Salmon in the Riuer and some of them were in despaire that they should neuer see any more there affirming it to be God Iudgement vpon them for the prophanation of the Saboth The thirtieth of September wee rode from Barwicke to Belford from Belford to Anwick the next day from Anwick to Newcastle where I found the noble Knight Sir Henry Witherington who because I would haue no gold nor siluer gaue mee a bay Mare in requitall of a loafe of bread that I had giuen him two and twenty yeares before at the lland of Flores of the which I haue spoken before I ouertooke at Newcastle a great many of my worthy friends which were all comming for London namely Maister Robert Hay and Maister Dauid Drummond where I was well welcom'd at Maister Nicholas Tempests house From Newcastle I rode with those Gentlemen to Durham to Darington to Northallerton and to Topeliffe in Yorkshire where I tooke my leaue of them and would needs try my pennilesse fortunes by my selfe and see the Citty of Yorke where I was lodged at my Right Worshipfull good friends Maister Doctor Hudson one of his Maiesties Chaplaines who went with me and shewed me the goodly Minster Church there and the most admirable rare-wrought vnfellowed Chapter house From Yorke I rode to Doncaster where my horses were well fed at the Beare but my selfe found out the honourable Knight Sir Robert Anstruther at his father in lawes the truely noble Sir Robert Swifts house hee being then high Sheriffe of Yorkeshire where with their good Ladies and the right Honourable the Lord Sanquhar I was stayed two nights and one day Sir Robert Anstruther I thanke him not onely paying for my two horses meat but at
THE PENNYLES PILGRIMAGE OR The Money-lesse perambulation of IOHN TAYLOR Alias the Kings Majesties Water-Poet HOW HE TRAVAILED ON FOOT from London to Edenborough in Scotland not carrying any Money to or fro neither Begging Borrowing or Asking Meate drinke or Lodging With his Description of his Entertainment in all places of his Iourney and a true Report of the vnmatchable Hunting in the Brea of Marre and Badenoch in Scotland With other Obseruations some serious and worthy of Memory and some merry and not hurtfull to be Remembred Lastly that which is Rare in a Trauailer all is true LONDON Printed by Edw All de at the charges of the Author 1618. TO THE TRVLY NOBLE AND RIGHT Honorable Lord GEORGE Marquesse of Buckingham Viscount VILLEIRS Baron of Whaddon Iustice in Eyre of all his Maiesties Forrests Parkes and Chases beyond Trout Master of the Horse to his Maiesty and one of the Gentlemen of his Highnesse Royall Bed-Chamber Knight of the most Noble order of the Garter and one of his Majesties most Honorable Priuie Councell of both the Kingdomes of England and Scotland RIght Honorable and worthy honour'd Lord as in my Trauailes I was Entertain'd welcom'd and relieu'd by many Honourable Lords Worshipfull Knights Esquires Gentlemen and others both in England Scotland So now your Lordships Inclination hath incited or inuited my poore Muse to shelter herselfe vnder the shadow of your Honourable Patronage not that there is any worth at all in my sterill inuention but in all Humilitie I acknowledge that it is onely your Lordships acceptance that is able to make this nothing something and withall engage me euer Your Honours in all obseruance IOHN TAYLOR To all my louing Aduenturers by what name or title so euer my generall salutation REader these Trauailes of mine into Scotland were not vndertaken neither in imitation or emulation of any man but onely deuised by my selfe on purpose to make triall of my friends both in this Kingdome of England and that of Scotland and because I would be an eye witnesse of diuers things which I had heard of that Country and whereas many shallow-brain'd Critickes doe lay an aspersion on me that I was set on by others or that I did vndergoe this project either in malice or mockage of Maister Beniamin Ionson I vow by the faith of a Christian that their imaginations are all wide for he is a Gentleman to whom I am so much obliged for many vndeserued courtesies that I haue receiued from him and from others by his fauour that I durst neuer to be so impudent or ingratefull as either to suffer any mans perswasions or mine owne instigation to incite me to make so bad a requitall for so much goodnesse formerly receiued so much for that and now Reader if you expect That I should write of Cities scituations Or that of Countries I should make relations Of brooks crooks nooks of riuers boorns and rills Of mountaines fountaines Castles Towers hills Of Shieres and Pieres and memorable things Of liues and deaths of great commanding Kings I touch not those they not belong to mee But if such things as these you long to see Lay downe my Booke and but vouchsafe to reede The learned Camden or laborious Speede. And so God speede you and me whilst I rest yours in all thankfulnes IOHN TAYLOR TAYLORS PENNILESSE PILGRIMAGE LIst Lordings list if you haue lust to list I write not here a tale of had I wist But you shall heare of trauels and relations Descriptions of strange yet English fashions And he that not beleeues what here is writ Let him as I haue done make proofe of it The yeare of grace accounted as I weene One thousand twice three hundred and eighteene And to relate all things in order duly 'T was Tuesday last the fourteenth day of Iuly Saint Reuels day the Almanacke will tell ye The signe in Virgo was or neere the belly The Moone full three dayes old the winde full South At these times I began this trick of youth I speake not of the Tide for vnderstand My legges I made my Oares and rowed by land Though in the morning I began to goe Good fellowes trooping flock'd me so That make what hast I could the Sunne was set E're from the gates of London I could get At last I tooke my latest leaue thus late At the Bell Inne that 's extra Aldersgate There stoode a horse that my prouant should carie From that place to the end of my fegarie My Horse no Horse or Mare but guelded Nagge That with good vnderstanding bore my bagge And of good cariage he himselfe did show These things are ex'lent in a beast you know There in my Knapsack to pay hungers fees I had good Bacon Bisket Neates-tongue Cheese With Roses Barbaries of each Conserues And Mithridate that vigrous health preserues And I entreate you take these words for no-lyes I had good Aqua vita Rosa so-lies With sweet Ambrosia the Gods owne drinke Most ex'lent geere for mortalls as I thinke Besides I had both vineger and oyle That could a daring sawcie stomack foyle This foresaid Tuesday night 'twixt eight and nine Well rigg'd and ballac'd both with Beere and Wine I stumbling forward thus my iaunt begun And went that night as farre as Islington There did I finde I dare affirme it bold A Maydenhead of twenty fiue yeeres old But surely it was painted like a whore And for a signe or wonder hang'd at ' dore Which shewe a Maidenhead that 's kept so long May be hang'd vp and yet sustaine no wrong There did my louing friendly Host begin To entertaine me freely to his Inne And there my friends and good associates Each one to mirth himselfe accommodates At Well head both for welcome and for cheere Hauing a good New tonne of good stale Beere There did we Trundle downe health after health Which oftentimes impaires both health and wealth Till euery one had fill'd his mortall Trunke And onely Nobody was three parts drunke The morrow next Wednesday Saint Swithins day From ancient Islington I tooke my way At Hollywell I was inforc'd carrowse Ale high and mightie at the Blinde-mans house But ther 's a helpe to make amends for all That though the Ale be great the Pots be small At High-gate hill to a strange house I went And saw the people were to eating bent I neither Borrow'd Crau'd Ask'd Begg'd or Bought But most laborious with my teeth I wrought I did not this cause meate or drinke was scant But I did practise thus before my want Like to a Tilter that would winne the prize Before the day hee 'le often excercise So I began to put in vre at first These principles 'gainst hunger and 'gainst thirst Close to the Gate their dwelt a worthy man That well could take his whiffe and quaffe his Canne Right Robin Good-fellow but humors euill Doe call him Robin Pluto or the Deuill But finding him a Deuill freely harted With friendly farewels I
which hee receiued with many thankes and saide that if euer hee could requite it hee would I had no sooner tolde this tale but Sr. Henry Witherington did acknowledge himselfe to bee the man that I had giuen the Loafe vnto 22. yeares before where I found the Prouerbe true that men haue more priuiledge then mountaines in meeting In what great measure hee did requite so small a courtesie I will relate in this following discourse in my Returne through Northumberland So leauing my man at the towne of Burnt Iland I tolde him I would but goe to Sterling and see the Castle there and withall to see my honourable friends the Earle of Marr and Sir William Murray Knight Lord of Abercarny and that I would returne within two dayes at the most But it fell out quite contrary for it was fiue and thirtie dayes before I could get backe againe out of these Noble-mens company The whole progresse of my trauell with them and the cause of my stay I cannot with gratefulnesse omit and thus it was A worthy Gentleman named Master Iohn Fenton did bring mee on my way sixe miles to Dumfermling where I was well entertained and lodged at Master Iohn Gibb his house one of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed-chamber and I thinke the oldest Seruant the King hath withall I was well entertained there by Master Crighton at his owne house who went with mee and shewed mee the Queenes Palace a delicate and a princely Mansion withall I saw the ruines of an auncient and stately built Abbey with faire Gardens Orchards and Medowes belonging to the palace all which with faire and goodly Reuenues by the suppression of the Abbey were annexed to the Crowne There also I saw a very faire Church which though it be now very large and spacious yet it hath in former times been much larger But I taking my leaue of Dumfermling would needs goe and see the truely noble Knight Sir George Bruce at a Towne called the Cooras there hee made mee right welcome both with varietie of fare and discourse and after all hee commaunded three of his men to direct mee to see his most admirable Cole-mines which if man can or could worke wonders is a wonder for my selfe neither in any trauels that I haue been in nor any History that I haue read or any Discourse that I haue heard did neuer see reade or heare of any worke of man that might parallell or be equiualent with this vnfellowed and vnmatchable worke and though all I can say of it cannot describe it according to the worthinesse of his vigilant industry that was both the occasion Inuentor and Maintainer of it yet rather then the memory of so rare an Enterprise and so accomplisht a profit to the Common-wealth shall bee raked and smothered in the dust of obliuion I will giue a little touch at the description of it although I amongst Writers am like he that worst may holds the candle The Mine hath two wayes into it the one by sea and the other by land but a man may go into it by land and returne the same way if he please and so he may enter into it by sea and by Sea hee may come foorth of it but I for varieties sake went in by Sea and out by Land Now men may obiect how can a man goe into a Mine the entrance of it being in the Sea but that the Sea wil follow him and so drown the Mine To which obiection thus I answer That at a low water the Sea being ebd away and a great part of the sand bare vpon this same sand beeing mixed with rockes and cragges did the Master of this great worke build a round circular frame of stone very thicke strong and ioyned together with glutinous or bitunous matter so high withall that the Sea at the highest flood or the greatest rage of storme or tempest can neither dissolue the stones so well compacted in the building or yet ouerflowe the height of it Within this round frame at all aduentures hee did set workemen to digge vvith Mattockes Pickaxes and other instruments fit for such purposes They did digge more then fourtie foot downeright into and through a Rocke At last they found that which they expected which was Sea-cole they following the veine of the Mine did digge forward still So that in the space of eight and twentie or nine and twenty yeares they haue digged more then an English mile under the Sea that when men are at worke belowe an hundred of the greatest Shippes in Britaine may saile ouer their ●●●ads Besides the Mine is most artificially cut like an Arch or a Vault all that great length vvith many nookes and by-wayes in it and it is so made that a man may walke vpright in the most places both in and out Many poore people are there set on worke which otherwise through the want of imployment would perish But when I had seene the Mine and was come foorth of it againe after my thankes giuen to Sir George Bruce I tolde him that if the plotters of the Powder Treason in England had seene this Mine that they perhaps would haue attempted to haue left the Parliament House and haue vndermined the Thames and so to haue blowne vp the Barges and Wherries wherein the King and all the Estates of our Kingdome were Moreouer I said that I could affoord to turne Tapster at London so that I had but one quarter of a mile of his Mine to make mee a Celler to keepe Beere and Bottle-ale in But leauing these Iestes in Prose I will relate a few Verses that I made merrily of this Mine I That haue wasted Months Weekes Dayes and Howers In viewing Kingdomes Countreys Townes and Towers Without all measure measuring many paces And with my pen describing sundrie places With few additions of my owne deuizing Because I haue a smacke of Coriatizing Our Mandeuill Primaleon Don Quixot Great Amadis or Huon traueld not As I haue done or beene where I haue beene Or heard and seene what I haue heard and seene Nor Britaines Odcomb Zanye braue Vlissis In all his ambling saw the like as this is I was in would I could describe it well A darke light pleasant profitable hell And as by water I was wafted in I thought that I in Charons Boate had bin But being at the entrance landed thus Three men there in the stead of Cerberus Conuaid me in in each ones hand a light To guide vs in that vault of endlesse night There young and old with glim'ring candles burning Digge delue and labour turning and returning Some in a hole with baskets and with baggs Resembling furies and infernall haggs There one like Tantall feeding and there one Lake Sisiphus he rowles the restlesse stone Yet all I saw was pleasure mixt with profit Which prou'd it to be no tormenting Tophet For in this honest worthy harmelesse hell There ne're did any damned Diuell dwell And th' owner of it gaines by 't more true