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A65012 The travels of Sig. Pietro della Valle, a noble Roman, into East-India and Arabia Deserta in which, the several countries, together with the customs, manners, traffique, and rites both religious and civil, of those Oriental princes and nations, are faithfully described : in familiar letters to his friend Signior Mario Schipano : whereunto is added a relation of Sir Thomas Roe's Voyage into the East-Indies.; Viaggi. Part 3. English Della Valle, Pietro, 1586-1652.; Roe, Thomas, Sir, 1581?-1644.; Havers, G. (George) 1665 (1665) Wing V47; ESTC R7903 493,251 479

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Generation But his knowledge and high attainments in several Languages made him not a little ignorant of himself he being so covetous so ambitious of praise that he would hear and endure more of it than he could in any measure deserve being like a Ship that hath too much Sail and too little Ballast Yet if he had not faln into the smart hands of the Wits of those Times he might have passed better That itch of Fame which engaged this man to the undertakings of those very hard and long and dangerous Travels hath put thousands more and therefore he was not alone in this into strange attempts onely to be talked of Upon a time one Mr Richard Steel a Merchant and servant to the East-India Company came unto us from Surat to Mandoa the place then of the Mogol's Residence of which place somewhat more hereafter at which time Mr Coryat was there with us This Merchant had not long before travelled over-land from East-India through Persia and so to Constantinople and so for England who in his Travel home-ward had met with Tom Coryat as he was journeying towards East-India Mr Steel then told him that when he was in England King James then living enquired after him and when he had certified the King of his meeting him on the way the King replyed Is that Fool yet living which when our Pilgrim heard it seemed to trouble him very much because the King spake no more nor no better of him saying that Kings would speak of poor men what they pleased At another time when he was ready to depart from us my Lord Embassador gave him a Letter and in that a Bill to receive ten pounds at Aleppo when he should return thither The Letter was directed unto Mr Libbaeus Chapman there Consul at that time in which that which concerned our Traveller was thus Mr Chapman when you shall hand these Letters I desire you to receive the Bearer of them Master Thomas Coryat with Courtesie for you shall find him a very honest poor Wretch and further I must entreat you to furnish him with ten pounds which shall be repayed c. Our Pilgrim lik'd the gift well but the Language by which he should have received it did not at all content him telling me That my Lord had even spoyled his Courtesie in the carriage thereof so that if he had been a very Fool indeed he could have said very little less of him than he did Honest poor Wretch And to say no more of him was to say as much as nothing And furthermore he then told me that when he was formerly undertaking his journey to Venice a Person of Honour wrote thus in his behalf unto Sir Henry Wotton then and there Embassador My Lord Good Wine needs no Bush neither a worthy man Letters Commendatory because whithersoever he comes he is his own Epistle c. There said he was some Language on my behalf but now for my Lord to write nothing of me by way of Commendation but Honest poor Wretch is rather to trouble me than to please me with his favour And therefore afterwards his Letter was phras'd up to his mind but he never liv'd to receive the money By which his old acquaintance may see how tender this poor man was to be touched in any thing that might in the least measure disparage him O what pains this poor man took to make himself a Subject for pre●●nt and after Discourse being troubled at nothing for the present unless with the fear of not living to reap that fruit he was so ambitious of in all his undertakings And certainly he was surprized with some such thoughts and fears for so he told us afterwards when upon a time he being at Mandoa with us and there standing in a room against a stone Pillar where the Embassador was and my self present with them upon a sudden he fell into such a swoon that we had very much ado to recover him out of it but at last comn to himself he told us that some sad thoughts had immediately before presented themselves to his Fancy which as he conceived put him into that distemper like Fannius in Martial Ne moriare mori to prevent death by dying For he told us that there was great Expectations in England of the large Accounts he should give of his Travels after his return home and that he was now shortly to leave us and he being at present not very well if he should die in the way toward Surat whither he was now intended to go which place he had not yet seen he might be buryed in Obscurity and none of his Friends ever know what became of him he travelling now as he usually did alone Upon which my Lord willed him to stay longer with us but he thankfully refused that offer and turned his face presently after towards Surat which was then about three hundred miles distant from us and he lived to come safely thither but there being over-kindly used by some of the English who gave him Sack which they had brought from England he calling for it as soon as he first heard of it and crying Sack Sack Is there such a thing as Sack I pray you give me some Sack And drinking of it though I conceive moderately for he was a very temperate man it increased his Flux which he had then upon him and this caused him within a few dayes after his very tedious and troublesome Travels for he went most on foot at this place to come to his journeies end for here he overtook Death Decemb. 1617. and was buried as aforesaid under a little Monument like one of those usually made in our Church-yards I now proceed to our former Discourse of the Description of the Great Mogol's Territories Which I shall digest into several Sections SECTION I. Of the several Provinces the chief Cities the Principal Rivers the extent of this vast Empire THe most spacious Monarchy under the subjection of the Great Mogol divides it self into thirty and seven several and large Provinces which anciently were particular Kingdoms whose true Names which we there had out of the Mogol's own Records with their Principal Cities and Rivers their Situation and Borders their Extent in length and breath I shall first set down very briefly beginning at the North-West Yet as I name these several Provinces I shall by the way take notice of some particulars in them which are most Remarkable 1. Candahore the chief City so called it lyes from the heart of the Mogol's Territories North-West it confines with the King of Persia and was anciently a Province belonging to him 2. Cabut the chief City so called the extreamest part North of this Emperours Dominions it confineth with Tartaria the River Nilob hath its beginning in it whose Current is Southerly till it dischargeth it self into Indus 3. Multan the chief City so called it lyeth South from Cabut and Candahore and to the West joynes with Persia. This Province is fam'd for
seventh of August I took the Altitude of the Sun with an Astrolabe and found him decline Southwards from the Zenith 19 degrees 20 minutes He was that day according to the Ephemerides of David Origano which I much esteem but have now with me in the deg August the twelfth The great Caravan of Bassora arriv'd at Aleppo it set forth a considerable time before us but had encounter'd so many difficulties in the Desart that our sufferings were pleasures in respect of theirs August the sixteenth I was inform'd by Sig. Gio. Maria de Bona of many passages of the Turkish affairs which as appertaining to things before or hereafter to be mention'd in these Letters and to the full knowledg of the history of things in my time I will not omit to relate in this place He gave me certain intelligence how Sultan Mustafa Brother of the deceased Sultan Ahmed who reign'd in Constantinople at my being there reign'd and was depos'd for an Ideot as really he is twice namely once before and once after Sultan Othman How Othman who was a Prince sufficiently odd humor'd being ill-bent against the Christians and very desirous to make an Expedition against Rome after the bad success befallen him in Poland was slain by his own Grandees who would not suffer his government which was somewhat rigorous and violent and that as a sign of his being slain he that slew him carri'd one of his ears to Mustafa's Mother who was yet living and was likely to be well-pleas'd therewith That it was not true that the said Othman in the beginning of his Reign had put to death Qizlagarasi of so great authority in the time of Sultan Ahmed his Father because he had too much power having been the man that depos'd Mustafa and plac'd Othman himself in the Throne but indeed he banisht him from Constantinople sending him into a kind of exile to live privately in Aegypt from whence he was afterwards recall'd by the present Emperor and restor'd to his ancient favour and at length dy'd of a disease at Constantinople How the present Emperor was Sultan Murad Son of Sultan Amed and Sultana Chiose of whom in the time of Amed I have elsewhere in these made long mention And that Murad was not the eldest Son of Chiose who was seen at Constantinople in my time and was of the same age with Othman but was a Son much younger that elder having been put to death by Othman when he design'd to go into Poland How the said Sultana Chiose was still living and of more authority then ever her Son Murad now raigning since the death of Othman wherein perhaps she had a hand because he was not her Son but the Son of another Woman after the second deposition of Mustafa and indeed I fore-saw many years ago that the said Chiose having one day remov'd all other pretenders would at length by her wisdom and the power she had in Court bring the Scepter into the hand of one of her sons as accordingly she hath done How the Government of the Turks was very ill-manag'd in this nonage of the Emperor and all their affairs grew worse and worse because there being no head there was likewise no obedience all the Ministers did what they pleas'd every one more or less according as he had more or less power without any regard of the Prince whom as a child they not only esteem'd kept remote from the Goverment but endeavour'd to keep always so by educating him only to delights and pleasures Lastly how the Serdar or Grand Vizier lately sent to the War of Persia was Hhapidh Mahhammed Basha that he was not sent from Constantinople but created Serdar or Grand Vzier whilst he was at Amid or Diarbekir as Basha or Governor from whence without being seen to pass by Aleppo or spending much time by the way he hapned to be the same year in Mesopotamia which I said above that I much wondred at and could not believe in case he had come from Constantinople as ordinarily it uses to be He told me that indeed he was still at Amid and had not pass'd further because he continually waited for the coming up of the Army which was not yet gather'd together Whereby it appears to be true what I had always affirm'd at Bassora namely that nothing would be done this year in the War of Baghdad because it would scarce suffice for the uniting of an Army the expedition being begun and the same year and the Serdar who was to be General being newly created Sig. Giovan Maria added to these relations concerning the Turks some news about the affairs of the European Tartars pertaining also to the former namely that the Tartarian Princes of Cafa were three Brothers Chan who first reigned a man of spirit and valour Chan who was a hostage at Constantinople and a third Chan an enemy to the two others but a Vagabond from his own Country and a fugitive at the Court of the Persian on whom he depends and where he was seen by me in the year 1618. when we marcht against the Turkish Army Now of late years I know not upon what occasion the first Chan being sent for to Constantinople was there detain'd Prisoner and his Brother Chan their Hostage a person of little valour and age establish'd in his stead under whom the affairs of his State proceeded very ill and the forces were very feeble by which occasion the Chan that was in Persia being invited by the help of the Persian and many Tartars of the same Stare devoted to him he enter'd with an Army into his paternal Territories and driving his Brother from the Throne made himself Lord thereof by force continuing also to possess himself of all that Country by the help of the Cossacks of Poland with whom he confederated in despight of the Turks a thing indeed of very prejudicial consequence to them August the second I saw at Aleppo a Mahometan of the Country who writing in the right hand of a Child or Woman of any Age whatsoever certain words and characters which again he presently defaced by making a great blot of Ink in the palm of the hand and pouring Oil over it caused by the power of inchantments and words which he spake fast and bravingly that the said Child or Woman saw in the Oil in their hands whatever was desir'd yea certain Spirits spoke to them and answered to questions although the By-standers heard and saw nothing but only the Woman or Child related what he or she saw and heard He also caused two persons to sit upon the ground one opposite to the other and giving them four Arrows into their hands which both of them held with the points downward and as it were in two right lines united one to the other Then a question being put to him about any business he fell to murmur his inchantments and thereby caused the said four Arrows of their own accord to unite their points together in the
parts hath something of superiority over this of Cyprus September the sixth This Morning I am return'd a Ship-board where I conclude this Letter and commit it to F. Fra Giovanni di Segovia a Spanish reform'd Franciscan who came hither in the same Ship with us from Alexandretta and is the same Person who disguis'd in a secular and Souldier-like garb for fear of being hindred in his passage by the Portugal Ministers came in company of F. Fra Roderigo di San Michele a Discalceated Augustine and Provincial of Manila in the same Ship with us from Mascat to Bassora passing under the name of l' Alfiere or Ensign till he arriv'd safe at Aleppo where laying off his disguise he resum'd his proper name and Fryer's habit and because the Provincial of Manila with whom he came into India could not dispatch his affairs but stay'd behind at Aleppo therefore he being desirous to arrive speedily at Rome and Spain in order to the affairs of his Religion is just now departing and hath promis'd me to deliver this to you and to salute you in my name as I do most heartily LETTER XIII From Malta November 4. 1625. WHen I was thinking of finishing the small remainder of my Travels with the same Prosperity which God had hitherto afforded me and speedily arriving at those desired shores I have been here arrested at Malta by a little kind of misadventure sufficient to temper the course of so many good Fortunes In regard of the formidable Pestilence still continuing in Constantinople and other places of Turkie we have not been able to get admittance to anchor and land in this Island without undergoing a Quarantine Wherefore finding my self at leisure enough here in a House assign'd me as a favour by the Lords of the Council and separated from the little Island whither all the rest are sent I have thought fit to pass my time in writing to you what Adventures have befallen me since my last which was dated from a Ship-board at Cyprus September the sixth Be pleas'd therefore to know that on September the seventh I went ashore again to hear Mass after which I return'd a visit to Sig Rocco Andreani a Venetian Merchant in whose House I saw a live Camelion which a Boy of the family kept very tame ty'd with a little string for his Recreation They are frequent in India and are seen leaping amongst the Trees but I never saw any but at distance and so did not well observe them Here therefore holding it in my hand for 't is a gentle and pleasing Animal I observ'd it to be as big as a Lizard and almost of the same shape but more unhandsom to behold having an ill shapen head divided feet and two paws in the middle whereof the leg ariseth each of which paws is divided into two toes or nails yet so as the fissu●● is very small It s colour was grey but with some variety like a dapple They told me that it sometimes chang'd colour not as is vulgarly reported according to that which is lay'd before it but according as it hath more heat or cold takes pains or reposes with other like Accidents Which event I saw not though I try'd several wayes to procure it September the eighth The Consul carry'd me to another Village about two leagues or six miles distant from Larnaca and call'd to this day Kiti and Citium anciently a City and Bishoprick but is now all destroy'd saving a few Cottages We went particularly to visit a Greek Doctor nam'd Sig Aluise Cucci who liv'd there and had the same of much knowledg and spoke Italian well as also to see his Garden which though half ruin'd as all things are in the Island since it fell into the Turk's hands is yet one of the goodliest places in those parts Here dy'd Cimon the most valorous and vertuous Athenian Captain Son of the no less famous Captain Miltiades You may see Aemilius Probus in the Life of the said Cimon where he saith In Oppido Citio est mortuus after he had conquer'd most part of the Island Cyprus Two or three hours before noon we pass'd by the place where the Salt-work is which though through the negligence of the Turks who do not cleanse and empty it well it decayes and fills up every day yet in my time it yielded yearly about 10000 Piasters and almost all Ships make ballast of Salt particularly those of Venice are all oblig'd to take as much as will serve for that purpose and many times they take more which at Venice is a good commodity and a Trade reserv'd to the Prince Then we pass'd through a Village call'd Bromolaxaia and at length arriving at Kiti which lyes a little distant from the Sea the Coast of the Island running West-ward from the Saline we visited Sig Aluise Cucci whom indeed like a Philosopher as he professes to be we found living in a House which had sometimes been great and fair but was now half ruin●d the Garden had a small Brook with structures of Fountains and such like things but all out of order and reserving no other beauty besides a great number of Orange-Trees planted regularly and of equal height and making a goodly and delicious Grove I discours'd with the said Sig Aluise and he seem'd an intelligent Person but because he was sick or at least recovering and so weak that he could scarce speak I could not benefit by him as I desir'd I ask'd him concerning Cadmia and its species and other Minerals which you writ me word that you desir'd from Cyprus and I accordingly sent to Nicosia the chief City of the Island and the place of the Basha's residence as also concerning the Book of Galen He told me there was some at this day but 't was hard to meet with any that knew it or could tell where to find it the people being very Ideots and the Mines intermitted heretofore by the Christians for fear of alluring the Turks thereby to invade the Island as also since by the Turks through ignorance After this and such other Discourse we return'd to Larnaca by a different road about the midst whereof we found another Village call'd Menego but all these Villages in former times well peopled are now almost wholly destroy'd and uninhabited September the ninth Being return'd to the Ship the next day I took the height of the Sun with my Astrolabe in the Port della Saline of Cyprus and found him decline Southward from the Zenith 29 degrees 29 minutes 50 seconds On which day he was in degrees of September the thirteenth I went ashore in the Morning to Larnaca again from whence upon the Consuls instance I was accompany'd by Sig Gio Francesco Parente two other Venetians a Greek nam'd Meser Manoli my servant Michel and a Janizary for our guard to a delicious place of Devotion call'd by the Greeks Agia Nappa that is Holy about eight leagues from Larnaca upon the Eastern Sea-coast near Capo della Greca where
our Aloes Zocotrina but an adverse gale from the Arabian shore kept us so off that we could by no means recover it We passed by it the first of September Missing that Fort we proceeded on our Voyage and the fourth of September made a solemn Funeral in memory of our late slain Commander when after Sermon the small Shot and great Ordnance made a large Peal to his Remembrance On the sixth of September at night to our admiration and fear the Water of the Sea seemed to us as white as milk which did not appear only so in the body of the Sea but it looked so likewise in Buckets of water which we did then draw out of the Sea Others of our Nation passing on that Course have observed the like but I am yet to learn what should be the true reason thereof it being there very far from any shore and the Sea so deep as that we could fetch no ground The twenty first We discovered the main Continent of Asia the Great in which East-India takes up a large part The twenty second we had sight of Deu and Damon places that lye in the skirts of India principally inhabited and well-fortified by Portugals and the twenty fifth of September we came happily to an Anchor in Swally-Road within the Bay of Cambaia the Harbour for our Fleet while they make their stay in these remote Parts Then after a long and troublesom and dangerous passage we came at last to our desired Port. And immediately after my arrival there I was sent for by Sir Thomas Row Lord Embassadour then residing at the Mogol's Court which was very many miles up in the Countrey to supply the room of Mr John Hall his Chaplain Fellow of Corpus Christi Colledg in Oxford whom he had not long before buried And I lived with that most Noble Gentleman at that Court more than two years after which I returned home to England with him During which space of my abode there I had very good advantage to take notice of very many places and persons and things travelling with the Embassadour much in Progress with that King up and down his very large Territories And now Reader I would have thee to suppose me setting my foot upon the East-Indian shore at Swally before-named On the banks whereof amongst many more English that lie there interred is laid up the body of Mr Thomas Coryat a man in his time Notus nimis omnibus very sufficiently known He lived there and there died while I was in those parts and was for some Months then with my Lord Embassadour during which time he was either my Chamber-fellow or Tent-mate which gave me a full acquaintance of him That Greek-travelling-Thomas they which know his story know why I call him so formerly wrote a Book entituled Coryats Crudities Printed in the beginning of the year 1611. and then ushered into the World by very many Copies of excellent Verses made by the Wits of those Times which did very much advantage and improve if not enforce the sale thereof doing themselves much more honour than him whom they undertook to commend in their several Encomiasticks And if he had lived he would have written his last Travels to and in and out of East-India for he resolved if God had spared him life to have rambled up and down the world world as sometimes Vlysses did and though not so long as he yet ten full years at least before his return home in which time he purposed to see Tartaria in the vast parts thereof with as much as he could of China and those other large Places and Provinces interposed betwixt East-India and China whose true Names we might have had from him but yet have not He had a purpose after this to have visited the Court of Prester John in Aethiopia who is there called by his own people Ho Biot The King and after this it was in his thoughts to have cast his eyes upon many other places which if he had done and lived to write those Relations seeing as he did or should such variety of Countries Cities Nations Things and been as particular in them as he was in his Venetial Journal they must needs have swoln into so many huge Volums as would have prevented the perishing of Paper But undoubtedly if he had been continued in life to have written them there might have been made very good Use of his Observations for as he was a very Particular so was he without question a very Faithful Relator of things he saw he ever disclaiming that bold liberty which divers Travellers have and do take by speaking and writing any thing they please of remote parts when they cannot easily be contradicted taking a Pride in their feigned Relations to over-speak things being resolved in this case Not only things to do but or'-do Speaking writing all and more too I therefore for my part believing this Relator to be none of those have taken some things from his trust and credit in this my following Discourse And because he could not live to give an account unto the world of his own Travels I shall here by the way make some litle discovery of his footsteps and flittings up and down to and fro with something besides of him in his long peregrinations to satisfie very many yet living who if they shall please to read this Discourse may recall that man once more into their remembrance who while he lived was like a perpetual motion and therefore now dead should not be quite forgotten In the year 1612. he shipt himself from London for Constantinople now called by the Turks Stombole where he took special notice of all things there most observable In which place he found very great respect and encouragement from Sir Paul Pinder then and there Embassadour to whose House he had free and welcom access whensoever he pleased Being there for some time he took his opportunities to view divers parts in Grecia and in the Hellespont took special notice of those two Castles directly opposed to each other called Sestos and Abydos which stand on the several banks that bound that very narrow Sea which Places Musaeus makes famous in his very antient Poem of Hero and Leander He desired much to see where those seven Churches sometimes famous in Asia the Less stood but since their sin so darkned their light and God removed their Candlesticks from them as before he threatned those Places lie so in the dark that it cannot be well discovered where they once were Only Smyrna is famous at this present day for Trade but not Religion and Ephesus and some others of them keep their names still though they left and lost their Faith and profession of Truth with the rest He saw what yet remains of the Ruins of sometimes great Troy but Jam Seges est ubi Troja fuit That place which was once so populous as if it had been sow'n with People And seeded thus had after born Millions of men now