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A13485 The pennyles pilgrimage, or The money-lesse perambulation, of Iohn Taylor, alias the Kings Majesties water-poet How he trauailed on foot from London to Edenborough in Scotland, not carrying any money to or fro, neither begging, borrowing, or asking meate, drinke or lodging. With his description of his entertainment in all places of his iourney, and a true report of the vnmatchable hunting in the brea of Marre and Badenoch in Scotland. With other obseruations, some serious and worthy of memory, and some merry and not hurtfull to be remembred. Lastly that (which is rare in a trauailer) all is true. Taylor, John, 1580-1653. 1618 (1618) STC 23784; ESTC S118255 31,268 54

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stead of a nightcap for you must vnderstand that the oldest man aliue neuer saw but the snow was on the top of diuers of those hilles both in Summer as well as in Winter There did I finde the truely Noble and Right Honourable Lords Iohn Erskin Earle of Marr Iames Stuart Earle of Murray George Gordon Earle of Engye sonne and heire to the Marquesse of Huntley Iames Erskin Earle of Bughan and Iohn Lord Erskin sonne and heire to the Earle of Marre and their Countesses with my much honoured and my best assured and approoued friend Sir William Murray Knight of Abercarnye and hundred of others Knights Esquires and their followers all and euery man in generall in one habit as if Licurgus had beene there and made Lawes of Equalitie For once in the yeare which is the whole moneth of August and sometimes part of September many of the Nobilitie and Gentry of the Kingdome for their pleasure doe come into these high-land Countreyes to hunt where they doe all conforme themselues to the habite of the high-land men who for the most part speake nothing but Irish and in former time were those people which were called the Redshankes Their habite is shooes with but one sole apiece stockings which they call short hose made of a warme stuffe of diuers colours which they call Tartane as for breeches many of them nor their forefathers neuer wore any but a ierkin of the same stuffe that their hose is of their garters beeing bands or wreathes of hay or straw with a plead about their shoulders which is a mantle of diuers colours much finer and lighter stuffe then their hose with blew flat caps on their heads a handkerchiefe knit with two knots about their neckes and thus are they attyred Now their weapons are long bowes and forked arrowes Swords and Targets Harquebusses Muskets Durks and Loquhabor Axes With these Armes I found many of them armed for the hunting As for their Attire any man of what degree soeuer that comes amongst them must not disdaine to weare it for if they doe then they will disdaine to hunt or willingly to bring in their dogges but if men bee kinde vnto them and bee in their habit then are they conquered with kindnesse and the sport will be plentifull This was the reason that I found so many Noblemen and Gentlemen in those shapes But to proceed to the Hunting My good Lord of Marr hauing put me into that shape I rode with him from his house where I saw the ruines of an olde Castle called the Castle of Kindroghit It was built by King Malcolm Canmore for a hunting horse who raigned in Scotland when Edward the Confessor Harold and Norman William raigned in England I speake of it because it was the last house that I saw in those parts for I was the space of twelue dayes after before I saw either house corne fielde or habitation for any creature but Deere wilde Horses Wolues and such like Creatures which made mee doubt that I should neuer haue seene a house againe Thus the first day wee traueld 8. miles where there were small cottages built on purpose to lodge in which they call Lonquhards I thanke my good Lord Erskin he commanded that I should alwayes bee lodged in his lodging the Kitchin being alwayes on the side of a banke many Kettles and Pots boyling and many spits turning and winding with great variety of cheere as Venison bak't sodden rost and stu'de Beefe Mutton Goates Kid Hares fresh Salmon Pidgeons Hens Capons Chickins Partridge Moorecoots Heathcocks Caperkellies and Termagants good Ale Sacke White and Claret Tent or Allegant with most potent Aqua vitae All these and more then these wee had continually in superfluous aboundance caught by Faulconers Foulers and Fishers and brought by my Lords tenants and purueyers to victuall our Campe which consisted of fourteene or fifteene hundred men and horses the manner of the hunting is this Fiue or sixe hundred men doe rise early in the morning and they doe disperse themselues diuers wayes and 7.8 or 10. miles compasse they doe bring or chase in the Deere in many heards two three or foure hundred in a heard to such or such a place as the Noblemen shall appoint them then when day is come the Lords and Gentlemen of their Companies doe ride or goe to the said places sometimes wading vp to the middles through bournes and riuers and then they being come to the place doe lye downe on the ground till those foresaid Scouts which are called the Tinckhell do bring downe the Deere But as the Prouerbe sayes of a bad Cooke so these Tinkhell men doe lick their owne fingers for besides their bowes and arrowes which they carry with them wee can heare now and then a harguebuse or a musquet goe off which they doe seldome discharge in vaine Then after wee had stayed three houres or thereabouts wee might perceiue the Deere appeare on the hills round about vs their heads making a shew like a wood which being followed close by the Tinkhell are chased downe into the valley where wee lay then all the valley on each side being way-laid with a hundred couple of strong Irish Grey-hounds they are let loose as occasion serues vpon the heard of Deere that with Dogges Gunnes Arrowes Durks and Daggers in the space of two houres fourescore fat Deere were slaine which after are disposed of some one way and some another twenty or thirty miles and more then enough left for vs to make merry withall at our Rendeuouze I liked the sport so well that I made these two Sonnets following WHy should I wast Inuention to endite Ouidian fictions or Olympian games My misty Muse enlightened with more light To a more noble pitch her ayme She frames I must relate to my great Maister IAMES The Calydonian anuall peacefull warre How noble mindes doe eternize their fames By martiall meeting in the Brea of Marr How thousand gallant Spirits come neere and farre With Swords and Targets Arrowes Bowes and Gunnes That all the Troope to men of iudgement are The God of Warres great neuer conquered Sonnes The Sport is Manly yet none bleed but Beasts And last the Victors on the Vanquisht feasts IF Sport like this can on the Mountaines bee Where Phoebus flames can neuer melt the Snow Then let who lift delight in Vales below Skie-kissing Mountaine pleasures are for me What brauer obiect can mans eyesight see Then Noble Worshipfull and worthy wights As if they were prepard for sundry fights Yet all in sweet society agree Through Heather Mosse 'mongst frogs and bogs and fogs Mongst craggy cliffes and thunder battered hills Hares Hindes Buckes Rees are chas'd by Man and Dogs Where two howres Hunting fourescore fat Deere killes Low lands your Sports are low as is your Seate The High-land Games and Minds are high and great Beeing come to our lodgings there was such Baking Boyling Rosting and Stewing as if Cooke Ruffian had beene there to haue scalded the
his men to bring mee to a place called Adam to Master Iohn Acmootye his house one of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed-chamber where with him and his two brethren Master Alexander and Master Iames Acmootye I found both Cheere and Welcome not inferiour to any that I had had in any former place Amongst our viands that wee had there I must not forget the Sole and Goose a most delicate Fowle which breedes in great aboundance in a little Rocke called the Basse which stands two miles into the Sea It is very good flesh but it is eaten in the forme as wee eate Oysters standing at a side-boord a little before dinner vnsanctified without grace and after it is eaten it must be well liquored with two or three good rowses of Sherrie or Canarie sacke The Lord or Owner of the Basse doth profite at the least two hundred pound yearely by those Geese the Basse it selfe being of a great height and neere three quarters of a mile in campasse all fully replenished with Wildfowle hauing but one small entrance into it with a house a garden and a Chappell in it and on the toppe of it a Well of pure fresh water From Adam Mr. Iohn and Mr. Iames Acmootye went to the Towne of Dunbarr with mee where tenne Scottish pintes of wine were consumed and brought to nothing for a farewell there at Master Iames Baylies house I tooke leaue and Master Iames Acmootye comming for England said that if I would ride with him that neither I nor my horse should want betwixt that place and London Now I hauing no money or meanes for trauell beganne at once to examine my manners and my want at last my want perswaded my manners to accept of this worthy Gentlemans vndeserued courtesie So that night hee brought mee to a place called Cober spath where wee lodged at an Inne the like of which I dare say is not in any of his Maiesties Dominions And for to shewe my thankfulnesse to Master William Arnet and his wife the owners thereof I must a little explaine their bonntifull entertainement of guests which is this Suppose tenne fifteene or twentie men and horses come to lodge at their house the men shall haue flesh tame and wild-fowle fish with all varietie of good cheere good lodging and welcome and the horses shall want neither hay or prouender and in the morning at their departure the reckoning is iust nothing This is this worthy Gentlemans vse his chiefe delight beeing onely to giue strangers entertainement gratis And I am sure that in Scotland beyond Edinbrough I haue beene at houses like Castles for building the Master of the house his Beauer being his blew Bonnet one that will weare no other shirts but of the Flaxe that growes in his owne ground and of his wiues daughters or seruants spinning that hath his Stockings Hose and Ierkin of the Wooll of his owne sheepes backes that neuer by his pride of Apparell caused Mercer Draper Silke-man Embroyderer or Haberdasher to breake and turne bankerupt and yet this plaine home-spunne fellow keepes and maintaines thirtie fourtie fiftie seruants or perhaps more euery day releeuing three or fourescore poore people at his gate and besides all this can giue Noble entertainement for foure or fiue dayes together to fiue or sixe Earles and Lords besides Knights Gentlemen their followers if they be three or foure hundred men and horse of them where they shall not onely feed but feast and not feast but banquet this is a man that desires to know nothing so much as his duty to God and his King whose greatest cares are to practise the works of Piety Charity and Hospitality hee neuer studies the consuming Art of fashionlesse fashions hee neuer tries his strength to beare foure or fiue hundred Acres on his backe at once his legges are alwayes at liberty not being fettered with golden garters and manacled with artificiall Roses whose weight sometime is the last Relliques of some decayed Lordship Many of these worthy house-keepers there are in Scotland amongst some of them I was entertained from whence I did truely gather these aforesaid obseruations So leauing Coberspath we rode to Barwicke where the worthy old Soldier and ancient Knight Sir William Bowyer made me welcome but contrary to his will we lodged at an Inne where Mr. Iames Acmooty paid all charges but at Barwicke there was a grieuous chance hapned which I think not fit the relation to be omitted In the Riuer of Tweed which runnes by Barwicke are taken by Fishermen that dwell there infinite numbers of fresh Salmons so that many housholds and families are relieued by the profit of that Fishing but how long since I know not there was an order that no man or boy whatsoeuer should Fish vpon a Sunday This order continued long amongst them till some eight or nine weekes before Michaelmas last on a Sunday the Salmons plaid in such great aboundance in the Riuer that some of the Fishermen contrary to Gods law and their owne order tooke boates and nettes and Fished and caught neere three hundred Salmons but from that time vntill Michaelmas day that I was there which was nine weekes and heard the report of it and saw the poore peoples miserable lamentations they had not seene one Salmon in the Riuer and some of them were in despaire that they should neuer see any more there affirming it to be God Iudgement vpon them for the prophanation of the Saboth The thirtieth of September wee rode from Barwicke to Belford from Belford to Anwick the next day from Anwick to Newcastle where I found the noble Knight Sir Henry Witherington who because I would haue no gold nor siluer gaue mee a bay Mare in requitall of a loafe of bread that I had giuen him two and twenty yeares before at the lland of Flores of the which I haue spoken before I ouertooke at Newcastle a great many of my worthy friends which were all comming for London namely Maister Robert Hay and Maister Dauid Drummond where I was well welcom'd at Maister Nicholas Tempests house From Newcastle I rode with those Gentlemen to Durham to Darington to Northallerton and to Topeliffe in Yorkshire where I tooke my leaue of them and would needs try my pennilesse fortunes by my selfe and see the Citty of Yorke where I was lodged at my Right Worshipfull good friends Maister Doctor Hudson one of his Maiesties Chaplaines who went with me and shewed me the goodly Minster Church there and the most admirable rare-wrought vnfellowed Chapter house From Yorke I rode to Doncaster where my horses were well fed at the Beare but my selfe found out the honourable Knight Sir Robert Anstruther at his father in lawes the truely noble Sir Robert Swifts house hee being then high Sheriffe of Yorkeshire where with their good Ladies and the right Honourable the Lord Sanquhar I was stayed two nights and one day Sir Robert Anstruther I thanke him not onely paying for my two horses meat but at
my departure hee gaue mee a Letter to Newarke vpon Trent twenty eight miles in my way where Mr. George Atkinson mine host made me as welcome as if I had beene a French Lord and what was to bee paid as I cal'd for nothing I paid as much and left the reckoning with many thankes to Sir Robert Anstruther So leauing Newarke with another Gentleman that ouertooke mee wee came at night to Stamford to the signe of the Virginitie or the Maydenhead where I deliuered a Letter from the Lord Sanquhar which caused Master Bates and his wife being the Master and Mistresse of the house to make mee and the Gentleman that was with mee great cheare for nothing From Stamford the next day wee rode to Huntington where wee lodged at the Post-masters house at the signe of the Crowne his name is Riggs Hee was informed who I was and wherefore I vndertooke this my pennilesse Progresse wherefore hee came vp into our chamber and sup'd with vs and very bountifully called for three quarts of Wine and Sugar and foure lugges of Beere Hee did drinke and beginne Healths like a Horse-leech and swallowed downe his cuppes without feeling as if he had had the dropsie or nine pound of Spunge in his maw In a word as hee is a Poste hee dranke poste striuing and calling by all meanes to make the Reckoning great or to make vs men of great reckoning But in his payment hee was tyred like a Iade leauing the Gentleman that was with mee to discharge the terrible Shott or else one of my horses must haue laine in pawne for his superfluous calling and vnmannerly intrusion But leauing him I left Huntington and rode on the Sunday to Packeridge where Master Holland at the Faulkon mine olde acquaintance and my louing and auncient Hoste gaue mee my friend my man and our horses excellent good cheere and welcome and I paid him with Not a penie of money The next day I came to London and obscurely comming within Moore-gate I went to a house and borrowed money And so I stole backe againe to Islington to the signe of the Mayden-head staying till Wednesday that my friendes came to meete mee who knewe no other but that Wednesday was my first comming where with all loue I was entertained with much good cheere and after Supper wee had a play of the life and death of Guy of Warwicke plaied by the Right Honourable the Earle of Darbie his men And so on the Thursday morning beeing the fifteenth of October I came home to my house in London THE EPILOGVE TO all my Aduenturers and others THus did I neither spend or begge or aske By any course direct or indirectly But in each tittle I perform'd my taske According to my bill most circumspectly I vow to God I haue done SCOTLAND wrong And iustly gainst me it may bring an Action I haue not giuen 't that right which doth belong For which I am halfe guilty of detraction Yet had I wrote all things that there I saw Misiudging censures would suppose I flatter And so my name I should in question draw Where Asses bray and pratling Pies doe chatter Yet arm'd with truth I publish with my Pen That there th' Almighty doth his blessings heape In such aboundant food for Beasts and Men That I ne're saw more plenty or more cheape Thus what mine eyes did see I doe beleeue And what I doe beleeue I know is true And what is true vnto your hands I giue That what I giue may be beleeu'd of you But as for him that sayes I lye or dote I doe returne and turne the Lye in 's throate Thus Gentlemen amongst you take my ware You share my thankes and I your moneyes share Yours in all obseruance and gratefulnesse euer to be commanded IOHN TAYLOR FINIS My thankes to Sir Iohn S. George Dalstone with Sir Hen Gurwin Ouer Eskl waded The afore named Knightes had giuen money to my Guile of which hee left some part at euery Ale-hoose