stead of a nightcap for you must vnderstand that the oldest man aliue neuer saw but the snow was on the top of diuers of those hilles both in Summer as well as in Winter There did I finde the truely Noble and Right Honourable Lords Iohn Erskin Earle of Marr Iames Stuart Earle of Murray George Gordon Earle of Engye sonne and heire to the Marquesse of Huntley Iames Erskin Earle of Bughan and Iohn Lord Erskin sonne and heire to the Earle of Marre and their Countesses with my much honoured and my best assured and approoued friend Sir William Murray Knight of Abercarnye and hundred of others Knights Esquires and their followers all and euery man in generall in one habit as if Licurgus had beene there and made Lawes of Equalitie For once in the yeare which is the whole moneth of August and sometimes part of September many of the Nobilitie and Gentry of the Kingdome for their pleasure doe come into these high-land Countreyes to hunt where they doe all conforme themselues to the habite of the high-land men who for the most part speake nothing but Irish and in former time were those people which were called the Redshankes Their habite is shooes with but one sole apiece stockings which they call short hose made of a warme stuffe of diuers colours which they call Tartane as for breeches many of them nor their forefathers neuer wore any but a ierkin of the same stuffe that their hose is of their garters beeing bands or wreathes of hay or straw with a plead about their shoulders which is a mantle of diuers colours much finer and lighter stuffe then their hose with blew flat caps on their heads a handkerchiefe knit with two knots about their neckes and thus are they attyred Now their weapons are long bowes and forked arrowes Swords and Targets Harquebusses Muskets Durks and Loquhabor Axes With these Armes I found many of them armed for the hunting As for their Attire any man of what degree soeuer that comes amongst them must not disdaine to weare it for if they doe then they will disdaine to hunt or willingly to bring in their dogges but if men bee kinde vnto them and bee in their habit then are they conquered with kindnesse and the sport will be plentifull This was the reason that I found so many Noblemen and Gentlemen in those shapes But to proceed to the Hunting My good Lord of Marr hauing put me into that shape I rode with him from his house where I saw the ruines of an olde Castle called the Castle of Kindroghit It was built by King Malcolm Canmore for a hunting horse who raigned in Scotland when Edward the Confessor Harold and Norman William raigned in England I speake of it because it was the last house that I saw in those parts for I was the space of twelue dayes after before I saw either house corne fielde or habitation for any creature but Deere wilde Horses Wolues and such like Creatures which made mee doubt that I should neuer haue seene a house againe Thus the first day wee traueld 8. miles where there were small cottages built on purpose to lodge in which they call Lonquhards I thanke my good Lord Erskin he commanded that I should alwayes bee lodged in his lodging the Kitchin being alwayes on the side of a banke many Kettles and Pots boyling and many spits turning and winding with great variety of cheere as Venison bak't sodden rost and stu'de Beefe Mutton Goates Kid Hares fresh Salmon Pidgeons Hens Capons Chickins Partridge Moorecoots Heathcocks Caperkellies and Termagants good Ale Sacke White and Claret Tent or Allegant with most potent Aqua vitae All these and more then these wee had continually in superfluous aboundance caught by Faulconers Foulers and Fishers and brought by my Lords tenants and purueyers to victuall our Campe which consisted of fourteene or fifteene hundred men and horses the manner of the hunting is this Fiue or sixe hundred men doe rise early in the morning and they doe disperse themselues diuers wayes and 7.8 or 10. miles compasse they doe bring or chase in the Deere in many heards two three or foure hundred in a heard to such or such a place as the Noblemen shall appoint them then when day is come the Lords and Gentlemen of their Companies doe ride or goe to the said places sometimes wading vp to the middles through bournes and riuers and then they being come to the place doe lye downe on the ground till those foresaid Scouts which are called the Tinckhell do bring downe the Deere But as the Prouerbe sayes of a bad Cooke so these Tinkhell men doe lick their owne fingers for besides their bowes and arrowes which they carry with them wee can heare now and then a harguebuse or a musquet goe off which they doe seldome discharge in vaine Then after wee had stayed three houres or thereabouts wee might perceiue the Deere appeare on the hills round about vs their heads making a shew like a wood which being followed close by the Tinkhell are chased downe into the valley where wee lay then all the valley on each side being way-laid with a hundred couple of strong Irish Grey-hounds they are let loose as occasion serues vpon the heard of Deere that with Dogges Gunnes Arrowes Durks and Daggers in the space of two houres fourescore fat Deere were slaine which after are disposed of some one way and some another twenty or thirty miles and more then enough left for vs to make merry withall at our Rendeuouze I liked the sport so well that I made these two Sonnets following WHy should I wast Inuention to endite Ouidian fictions or Olympian games My misty Muse enlightened with more light To a more noble pitch her ayme She frames I must relate to my great Maister IAMES The Calydonian anuall peacefull warre How noble mindes doe eternize their fames By martiall meeting in the Brea of Marr How thousand gallant Spirits come neere and farre With Swords and Targets Arrowes Bowes and Gunnes That all the Troope to men of iudgement are The God of Warres great neuer conquered Sonnes The Sport is Manly yet none bleed but Beasts And last the Victors on the Vanquisht feasts IF Sport like this can on the Mountaines bee Where Phoebus flames can neuer melt the Snow Then let who lift delight in Vales below Skie-kissing Mountaine pleasures are for me What brauer obiect can mans eyesight see Then Noble Worshipfull and worthy wights As if they were prepard for sundry fights Yet all in sweet society agree Through Heather Mosse 'mongst frogs and bogs and fogs Mongst craggy cliffes and thunder battered hills Hares Hindes Buckes Rees are chas'd by Man and Dogs Where two howres Hunting fourescore fat Deere killes Low lands your Sports are low as is your Seate The High-land Games and Minds are high and great Beeing come to our lodgings there was such Baking Boyling Rosting and Stewing as if Cooke Ruffian had beene there to haue scalded the
THE PENNYLES PILGRIMAGE OR The Money-lesse perambulation of IOHN TAYLOR Alias the Kings Majesties Water-Poet HOW HE TRAVAILED ON FOOT from London to Edenborough in Scotland not carrying any Money to or fro neither Begging Borrowing or Asking Meate drinke or Lodging With his Description of his Entertainment in all places of his Iourney and a true Report of the vnmatchable Hunting in the Brea of Marre and Badenoch in Scotland With other Obseruations some serious and worthy of Memory and some merry and not hurtfull to be Remembred Lastly that which is Rare in a Trauailer all is true LONDON Printed by Edw All de at the charges of the Author 1618. TO THE TRVLY NOBLE AND RIGHT Honorable Lord GEORGE Marquesse of Buckingham Viscount VILLEIRS Baron of Whaddon Iustice in Eyre of all his Maiesties Forrests Parkes and Chases beyond Trout Master of the Horse to his Maiesty and one of the Gentlemen of his Highnesse Royall Bed-Chamber Knight of the most Noble order of the Garter and one of his Majesties most Honorable Priuie Councell of both the Kingdomes of England and Scotland RIght Honorable and worthy honour'd Lord as in my Trauailes I was Entertain'd welcom'd and relieu'd by many Honourable Lords Worshipfull Knights Esquires Gentlemen and others both in England Scotland So now your Lordships Inclination hath incited or inuited my poore Muse to shelter herselfe vnder the shadow of your Honourable Patronage not that there is any worth at all in my sterill inuention but in all Humilitie I acknowledge that it is onely your Lordships acceptance that is able to make this nothing something and withall engage me euer Your Honours in all obseruance IOHN TAYLOR To all my louing Aduenturers by what name or title so euer my generall salutation REader these Trauailes of mine into Scotland were not vndertaken neither in imitation or emulation of any man but onely deuised by my selfe on purpose to make triall of my friends both in this Kingdome of England and that of Scotland and because I would be an eye witnesse of diuers things which I had heard of that Country and whereas many shallow-brain'd Critickes doe lay an aspersion on me that I was set on by others or that I did vndergoe this project either in malice or mockage of Maister Beniamin Ionson I vow by the faith of a Christian that their imaginations are all wide for he is a Gentleman to whom I am so much obliged for many vndeserued courtesies that I haue receiued from him and from others by his fauour that I durst neuer to be so impudent or ingratefull as either to suffer any mans perswasions or mine owne instigation to incite me to make so bad a requitall for so much goodnesse formerly receiued so much for that and now Reader if you expect That I should write of Cities scituations Or that of Countries I should make relations Of brooks crooks nooks of riuers boorns and rills Of mountaines fountaines Castles Towers hills Of Shieres and Pieres and memorable things Of liues and deaths of great commanding Kings I touch not those they not belong to mee But if such things as these you long to see Lay downe my Booke and but vouchsafe to reede The learned Camden or laborious Speede. And so God speede you and me whilst I rest yours in all thankfulnes IOHN TAYLOR TAYLORS PENNILESSE PILGRIMAGE LIst Lordings list if you haue lust to list I write not here a tale of had I wist But you shall heare of trauels and relations Descriptions of strange yet English fashions And he that not beleeues what here is writ Let him as I haue done make proofe of it The yeare of grace accounted as I weene One thousand twice three hundred and eighteene And to relate all things in order duly 'T was Tuesday last the fourteenth day of Iuly Saint Reuels day the Almanacke will tell ye The signe in Virgo was or neere the belly The Moone full three dayes old the winde full South At these times I began this trick of youth I speake not of the Tide for vnderstand My legges I made my Oares and rowed by land Though in the morning I began to goe Good fellowes trooping flock'd me so That make what hast I could the Sunne was set E're from the gates of London I could get At last I tooke my latest leaue thus late At the Bell Inne that 's extra Aldersgate There stoode a horse that my prouant should carie From that place to the end of my fegarie My Horse no Horse or Mare but guelded Nagge That with good vnderstanding bore my bagge And of good cariage he himselfe did show These things are ex'lent in a beast you know There in my Knapsack to pay hungers fees I had good Bacon Bisket Neates-tongue Cheese With Roses Barbaries of each Conserues And Mithridate that vigrous health preserues And I entreate you take these words for no-lyes I had good Aqua vita Rosa so-lies With sweet Ambrosia the Gods owne drinke Most ex'lent geere for mortalls as I thinke Besides I had both vineger and oyle That could a daring sawcie stomack foyle This foresaid Tuesday night 'twixt eight and nine Well rigg'd and ballac'd both with Beere and Wine I stumbling forward thus my iaunt begun And went that night as farre as Islington There did I finde I dare affirme it bold A Maydenhead of twenty fiue yeeres old But surely it was painted like a whore And for a signe or wonder hang'd at ' dore Which shewe a Maidenhead that 's kept so long May be hang'd vp and yet sustaine no wrong There did my louing friendly Host begin To entertaine me freely to his Inne And there my friends and good associates Each one to mirth himselfe accommodates At Well head both for welcome and for cheere Hauing a good New tonne of good stale Beere There did we Trundle downe health after health Which oftentimes impaires both health and wealth Till euery one had fill'd his mortall Trunke And onely Nobody was three parts drunke The morrow next Wednesday Saint Swithins day From ancient Islington I tooke my way At Hollywell I was inforc'd carrowse Ale high and mightie at the Blinde-mans house But ther 's a helpe to make amends for all That though the Ale be great the Pots be small At High-gate hill to a strange house I went And saw the people were to eating bent I neither Borrow'd Crau'd Ask'd Begg'd or Bought But most laborious with my teeth I wrought I did not this cause meate or drinke was scant But I did practise thus before my want Like to a Tilter that would winne the prize Before the day hee 'le often excercise So I began to put in vre at first These principles 'gainst hunger and 'gainst thirst Close to the Gate their dwelt a worthy man That well could take his whiffe and quaffe his Canne Right Robin Good-fellow but humors euill Doe call him Robin Pluto or the Deuill But finding him a Deuill freely harted With friendly farewels I
which hee receiued with many thankes and saide that if euer hee could requite it hee would I had no sooner tolde this tale but Sr. Henry Witherington did acknowledge himselfe to bee the man that I had giuen the Loafe vnto 22. yeares before where I found the Prouerbe true that men haue more priuiledge then mountaines in meeting In what great measure hee did requite so small a courtesie I will relate in this following discourse in my Returne through Northumberland So leauing my man at the towne of Burnt Iland I tolde him I would but goe to Sterling and see the Castle there and withall to see my honourable friends the Earle of Marr and Sir William Murray Knight Lord of Abercarny and that I would returne within two dayes at the most But it fell out quite contrary for it was fiue and thirtie dayes before I could get backe againe out of these Noble-mens company The whole progresse of my trauell with them and the cause of my stay I cannot with gratefulnesse omit and thus it was A worthy Gentleman named Master Iohn Fenton did bring mee on my way sixe miles to Dumfermling where I was well entertained and lodged at Master Iohn Gibb his house one of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed-chamber and I thinke the oldest Seruant the King hath withall I was well entertained there by Master Crighton at his owne house who went with mee and shewed mee the Queenes Palace a delicate and a princely Mansion withall I saw the ruines of an auncient and stately built Abbey with faire Gardens Orchards and Medowes belonging to the palace all which with faire and goodly Reuenues by the suppression of the Abbey were annexed to the Crowne There also I saw a very faire Church which though it be now very large and spacious yet it hath in former times been much larger But I taking my leaue of Dumfermling would needs goe and see the truely noble Knight Sir George Bruce at a Towne called the Cooras there hee made mee right welcome both with varietie of fare and discourse and after all hee commaunded three of his men to direct mee to see his most admirable Cole-mines which if man can or could worke wonders is a wonder for my selfe neither in any trauels that I haue been in nor any History that I haue read or any Discourse that I haue heard did neuer see reade or heare of any worke of man that might parallell or be equiualent with this vnfellowed and vnmatchable worke and though all I can say of it cannot describe it according to the worthinesse of his vigilant industry that was both the occasion Inuentor and Maintainer of it yet rather then the memory of so rare an Enterprise and so accomplisht a profit to the Common-wealth shall bee raked and smothered in the dust of obliuion I will giue a little touch at the description of it although I amongst Writers am like he that worst may holds the candle The Mine hath two wayes into it the one by sea and the other by land but a man may go into it by land and returne the same way if he please and so he may enter into it by sea and by Sea hee may come foorth of it but I for varieties sake went in by Sea and out by Land Now men may obiect how can a man goe into a Mine the entrance of it being in the Sea but that the Sea wil follow him and so drown the Mine To which obiection thus I answer That at a low water the Sea being ebd away and a great part of the sand bare vpon this same sand beeing mixed with rockes and cragges did the Master of this great worke build a round circular frame of stone very thicke strong and ioyned together with glutinous or bitunous matter so high withall that the Sea at the highest flood or the greatest rage of storme or tempest can neither dissolue the stones so well compacted in the building or yet ouerflowe the height of it Within this round frame at all aduentures hee did set workemen to digge vvith Mattockes Pickaxes and other instruments fit for such purposes They did digge more then fourtie foot downeright into and through a Rocke At last they found that which they expected which was Sea-cole they following the veine of the Mine did digge forward still So that in the space of eight and twentie or nine and twenty yeares they haue digged more then an English mile under the Sea that when men are at worke belowe an hundred of the greatest Shippes in Britaine may saile ouer their â—â—â—ads Besides the Mine is most artificially cut like an Arch or a Vault all that great length vvith many nookes and by-wayes in it and it is so made that a man may walke vpright in the most places both in and out Many poore people are there set on worke which otherwise through the want of imployment would perish But when I had seene the Mine and was come foorth of it againe after my thankes giuen to Sir George Bruce I tolde him that if the plotters of the Powder Treason in England had seene this Mine that they perhaps would haue attempted to haue left the Parliament House and haue vndermined the Thames and so to haue blowne vp the Barges and Wherries wherein the King and all the Estates of our Kingdome were Moreouer I said that I could affoord to turne Tapster at London so that I had but one quarter of a mile of his Mine to make mee a Celler to keepe Beere and Bottle-ale in But leauing these Iestes in Prose I will relate a few Verses that I made merrily of this Mine I That haue wasted Months Weekes Dayes and Howers In viewing Kingdomes Countreys Townes and Towers Without all measure measuring many paces And with my pen describing sundrie places With few additions of my owne deuizing Because I haue a smacke of Coriatizing Our Mandeuill Primaleon Don Quixot Great Amadis or Huon traueld not As I haue done or beene where I haue beene Or heard and seene what I haue heard and seene Nor Britaines Odcomb Zanye braue Vlissis In all his ambling saw the like as this is I was in would I could describe it well A darke light pleasant profitable hell And as by water I was wafted in I thought that I in Charons Boate had bin But being at the entrance landed thus Three men there in the stead of Cerberus Conuaid me in in each ones hand a light To guide vs in that vault of endlesse night There young and old with glim'ring candles burning Digge delue and labour turning and returning Some in a hole with baskets and with baggs Resembling furies and infernall haggs There one like Tantall feeding and there one Lake Sisiphus he rowles the restlesse stone Yet all I saw was pleasure mixt with profit Which prou'd it to be no tormenting Tophet For in this honest worthy harmelesse hell There ne're did any damned Diuell dwell And th' owner of it gaines by 't more true
Deuill in his feathers and after supper a fire of firre wood as high as an indifferent May-pole for I assure you that the Earle of Marre will giue any man that is his friend for thankes as many Firre trees that are as good as any shippes mastes in England as are worth if they were in any place neere the Thames or any other portable Riuer the best Earledome in England or Scotland either For I dare affirme hee hath as many growing there as would serue for mastes from this time to the end of the world for all the Shippes Carackes Hoyes Galleyes Boates Drumlers Barkes and Water-craftes that are now or can bee in the world these fourtie yeares This sounds like a lie to an vnbeleeuer but I and many thousands doe knowe that I speake within the compasse of truth for indeede the more is the pitie they doe growe so farre from any passage of water and withall in such rockie Mountaines that no way to conuey them is possible to bee passable either with Boate Horse or Cart. Thus hauing spent certaine dayes in Hunting in the Brea of Marr wee went to the next Countie called Bagenoch belonging to the Earle of Engye where hauing such sport and entertainement as wee formerly had after foure or fiue dayes pastime wee tooke leaue of hunting for that yeare and tooke our iourney toward a strong house of the Earles called Ruthen in Bagenoch where my Lord of Engye and his noble Countesse being daughter to the Earle of Argile did giue vs most noble welcome three dayes From thence wee went to a place called Ballo Castle a faire and stately house a worthy Gentleman beeing the owner of it called the Lard of Graunt his wife beeing a Gentlewoman honourably descended being sister to the right Honourable Earle of Atholl and to Sir Patricke Murray Knight shee beeing both inwardly and outwardly plentifully adorned with the guifts of Grace and Nature so that our cheere was more then sufficient and yet much lesse then they could affoord vs. There staied there foure dayes foure Earles one Lord diuers Knights and Gentlemen and their seruants footemen and horses and euery meale foure long Tables furnished with all varieties Our first and second course beeing threescore Dishes at one boord and after that alwayes a Banquet and there if I had not forsworne wine till I came to Edinbrough I thinke I had there dranke my last The fifth day with much adoe wee gate from thence to Tarnaway a goodly house of the Earle of Murrayes â—â—here that right Honourable Lord and his Ladie did welcome vs foure dayes more There was good cheere in all varietie with somewhat more then plentie for aduantage for indeed the Countie of Murray is the most pleasantess and plentifullest Countrey in all Scotland being plaine land that a Coach may bee driuen more then foure and thirtie myles one way in it all alongst by the Sea-coast From thence I went to Elgen in Murray an auncient Citie where there stood a faire and beautifull Church with three steeples the walles of it and the steeples all yet standing but the Roofe Windowes and many Marble Monuments and Toombes of honourable and worthie personages all broken and defaced this was done in the time when ruine bare rule and Knox knock'd downe Churches From Elgen we went to the B. of Murray his house which is called Spinye or Spinaye A reuerend Gentleman hee is of the noble name of Dowglasse where wee were very well welcomed as befitted the honour of himselfe and his guests From thence wee departed to the Lord Marquesse of Huntleyes to a sumptuous house of his named the Bogg of Geethe where our entertainement was like himselfe free bountifull and honourable There after two dayes stay with much entreatie and earnest suite I gate leaue of the Lords to depart towards Edinbrough the Noble Marquesse the Earles of Marr Murray Engie Bughan and the Lord Erskin all these I thanke them gaue me gold to defray my charges in my iourney So after fiue and thirtie dayes hunting and trauell I returning past by another stately mansion of the Lord Marquesses called Stroboggy and so ouer Carny mount to Breekin where a wench that was borne deafe and dumbe came into my chamber at mid-night I beeing asleepe and shee opening the bed would faine haue lodged with mee But had I beene a Sardanapalus or a Heliogobalus I thinke that either the great trauell ouer the Mountaines had tamed me or if not her beautie could neuer haue mooued me The best parts of her were that her breath was as sweet as sugar-carrion being very well shouldered beneath the waste and as my Hostesse tolde mee the next morning that shee had changed her Maiden-head for the price of a Bastard not long before But howsoeuer shee made such a hideous noyse that I started out of my sleepe and thought that the Deuill had beene there but I no sooner knewe who it was but I arose and thrust my dumbe beast out of my chamber and for want of a locke or a latch I staked vp my doore with a great chaire Thus hauing escaped one of the seuen deadly sinnes at Breekin I departed from thence to a Towne called Forfard and from thence to Dundee and so to Kinghorne Burnt Iland and so to Edinbrough where I stayed eight dayes to recouer my selfe of falles and bruises which I receiued in my trauell in the high-land mountainous Hunting Great welcome I had shewed mee all my stay at Edinbrough by many worthy Gentlemen namely olde Master George Todrigg Master Henry Leuingston Master Iames Henderson Master Iohn Maxwell and a number of others who suffered me to want no wine or good cheere as may be imagined Now the day before I came from Edinbrough I went to Leeth where I found my long approoued and assured good friend Master Beniamin Iohnson at one Master Iohn Stuarts house I thanke him for his great kindnesse towards mee for at my taking leaue of him hee gaue mee a piece of golde of two and twentie shillings to drinke his health in England And withall willed mee to remember his kinde commendations to all his friendes So with a friendly farewell I left him as well as I hope neuer to see him in a worse estate for hee is amongst Noble-men and Gentlemen that knowes his true worth and their owne honours where with much respectiue loue hee is worthily entertained So leauing Leeth I return'd to Edinbrough and within the port or gate called the Netherbowe I discharged my pockets of all the money I had and as I came pennilesse within the walles of that Citie at my first comming thither so now at my departing from thence I came monesse out of it againe hauing in my company to conuey mee out certaine Gentlemen amongst the which was Master Iames Acherson Laird of Gasford a Gentleman that brought mee to his house where with great entertainement hee and his good wife did welcome me On the morrowe he sent one of
his men to bring mee to a place called Adam to Master Iohn Acmootye his house one of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed-chamber where with him and his two brethren Master Alexander and Master Iames Acmootye I found both Cheere and Welcome not inferiour to any that I had had in any former place Amongst our viands that wee had there I must not forget the Sole and Goose a most delicate Fowle which breedes in great aboundance in a little Rocke called the Basse which stands two miles into the Sea It is very good flesh but it is eaten in the forme as wee eate Oysters standing at a side-boord a little before dinner vnsanctified without grace and after it is eaten it must be well liquored with two or three good rowses of Sherrie or Canarie sacke The Lord or Owner of the Basse doth profite at the least two hundred pound yearely by those Geese the Basse it selfe being of a great height and neere three quarters of a mile in campasse all fully replenished with Wildfowle hauing but one small entrance into it with a house a garden and a Chappell in it and on the toppe of it a Well of pure fresh water From Adam Mr. Iohn and Mr. Iames Acmootye went to the Towne of Dunbarr with mee where tenne Scottish pintes of wine were consumed and brought to nothing for a farewell there at Master Iames Baylies house I tooke leaue and Master Iames Acmootye comming for England said that if I would ride with him that neither I nor my horse should want betwixt that place and London Now I hauing no money or meanes for trauell beganne at once to examine my manners and my want at last my want perswaded my manners to accept of this worthy Gentlemans vndeserued courtesie So that night hee brought mee to a place called Cober spath where wee lodged at an Inne the like of which I dare say is not in any of his Maiesties Dominions And for to shewe my thankfulnesse to Master William Arnet and his wife the owners thereof I must a little explaine their bonntifull entertainement of guests which is this Suppose tenne fifteene or twentie men and horses come to lodge at their house the men shall haue flesh tame and wild-fowle fish with all varietie of good cheere good lodging and welcome and the horses shall want neither hay or prouender and in the morning at their departure the reckoning is iust nothing This is this worthy Gentlemans vse his chiefe delight beeing onely to giue strangers entertainement gratis And I am sure that in Scotland beyond Edinbrough I haue beene at houses like Castles for building the Master of the house his Beauer being his blew Bonnet one that will weare no other shirts but of the Flaxe that growes in his owne ground and of his wiues daughters or seruants spinning that hath his Stockings Hose and Ierkin of the Wooll of his owne sheepes backes that neuer by his pride of Apparell caused Mercer Draper Silke-man Embroyderer or Haberdasher to breake and turne bankerupt and yet this plaine home-spunne fellow keepes and maintaines thirtie fourtie fiftie seruants or perhaps more euery day releeuing three or fourescore poore people at his gate and besides all this can giue Noble entertainement for foure or fiue dayes together to fiue or sixe Earles and Lords besides Knights Gentlemen their followers if they be three or foure hundred men and horse of them where they shall not onely feed but feast and not feast but banquet this is a man that desires to know nothing so much as his duty to God and his King whose greatest cares are to practise the works of Piety Charity and Hospitality hee neuer studies the consuming Art of fashionlesse fashions hee neuer tries his strength to beare foure or fiue hundred Acres on his backe at once his legges are alwayes at liberty not being fettered with golden garters and manacled with artificiall Roses whose weight sometime is the last Relliques of some decayed Lordship Many of these worthy house-keepers there are in Scotland amongst some of them I was entertained from whence I did truely gather these aforesaid obseruations So leauing Coberspath we rode to Barwicke where the worthy old Soldier and ancient Knight Sir William Bowyer made me welcome but contrary to his will we lodged at an Inne where Mr. Iames Acmooty paid all charges but at Barwicke there was a grieuous chance hapned which I think not fit the relation to be omitted In the Riuer of Tweed which runnes by Barwicke are taken by Fishermen that dwell there infinite numbers of fresh Salmons so that many housholds and families are relieued by the profit of that Fishing but how long since I know not there was an order that no man or boy whatsoeuer should Fish vpon a Sunday This order continued long amongst them till some eight or nine weekes before Michaelmas last on a Sunday the Salmons plaid in such great aboundance in the Riuer that some of the Fishermen contrary to Gods law and their owne order tooke boates and nettes and Fished and caught neere three hundred Salmons but from that time vntill Michaelmas day that I was there which was nine weekes and heard the report of it and saw the poore peoples miserable lamentations they had not seene one Salmon in the Riuer and some of them were in despaire that they should neuer see any more there affirming it to be God Iudgement vpon them for the prophanation of the Saboth The thirtieth of September wee rode from Barwicke to Belford from Belford to Anwick the next day from Anwick to Newcastle where I found the noble Knight Sir Henry Witherington who because I would haue no gold nor siluer gaue mee a bay Mare in requitall of a loafe of bread that I had giuen him two and twenty yeares before at the lland of Flores of the which I haue spoken before I ouertooke at Newcastle a great many of my worthy friends which were all comming for London namely Maister Robert Hay and Maister Dauid Drummond where I was well welcom'd at Maister Nicholas Tempests house From Newcastle I rode with those Gentlemen to Durham to Darington to Northallerton and to Topeliffe in Yorkshire where I tooke my leaue of them and would needs try my pennilesse fortunes by my selfe and see the Citty of Yorke where I was lodged at my Right Worshipfull good friends Maister Doctor Hudson one of his Maiesties Chaplaines who went with me and shewed me the goodly Minster Church there and the most admirable rare-wrought vnfellowed Chapter house From Yorke I rode to Doncaster where my horses were well fed at the Beare but my selfe found out the honourable Knight Sir Robert Anstruther at his father in lawes the truely noble Sir Robert Swifts house hee being then high Sheriffe of Yorkeshire where with their good Ladies and the right Honourable the Lord Sanquhar I was stayed two nights and one day Sir Robert Anstruther I thanke him not onely paying for my two horses meat but at