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A05597 The totall discourse, of the rare adventures, and painefull peregrinations of long nineteene yeares travailes from Scotland, to the most famous kingdomes in Europe, Asia, and Affrica Perfited by three deare bought voyages, in surveying of forty eight kingdomes ancient and modern; twenty one rei-publicks, ten absolute principalities, with two hundred islands. ... divided into three bookes: being newly corrected, and augmented in many severall places, with the addition of a table thereunto annexed of all the chiefe heads. Wherein is contayed an exact relation of the lawes, religions, policies and governments of all their princes, potentates and people. Together with the grievous tortures he suffered by the Inquisition of Malaga in Spaine ... And of his last and late returne from the Northern Isles, and other places adjacent. By William Lithgow.; Most delectable, and true discourse, of an admired and painefull peregrination from Scotland, to the most famous kingdomes in Europe, Asia and Affricke Lithgow, William, 1582-1645? 1640 (1640) STC 15714; ESTC S108592 306,423 530

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because my breath First sprung from Lanerk so my Christian faith Where thence O natall place my soule did coyle Blood sprit and sense flesh birth life love and soyle I 'le leave Clydes fragrant fields resplendant banks Bedeckt with Silvans stately beauteous ranks Of Pandedalian sparks which lend the sight Of variable colours best Natures light And close these silver shades that dazeling bloome Mongst thickest Groves with many braue-fac'd broome Strict in the records of eternall fame For sight for gaine for birth for noble name And now the second soile for pleasure is the platformd Carse of Gowry twelve miles long Wheat Rye Cornes Fruit yards being its onely commodity which I may tearme for its levell'd face to be the Garden of Angus yea the Diamond-plot of Tay or rather the youngest Sister of matchlesse Piemont The Inhabitants being onely defective in affablenesse and communicating courtesses of naturall things whence sprung this proverbe The kearlles of the Carse The third and beautifull soyle is the delectable planure of Murray thirty miles long and sixe in breadth whose comely grounds inriched with Cornes plantings pastorage stately dwellings overfaced with a generous Octavian Gentrye and topped with a Noble Earle its chiefest Patrone it may be furstyled a second Lombardy or pleasant Meaddow of the North. Neither may I abandoning eye-pleasing grounds seclude here that Iudaick bottome reaching thirty miles twixt Perth and Min●os involuing the halfe of Angus within a fruitfull populous and nobilitat planure the heart wherof saluting Glames kisseth Cowper So likewise as thrice divided Louthiane is a girnell of grayne for forriane Nations and Fiffe twixt Carraill and Largo the Ceren trenches of a royall Camp the incircling Coast a nest of Corporations and Meandring Forth from tip toed Snadoun the prospicuous mirrour for matchlesse Maiesty euen so is melting Tweed and weeping Tiuiot the Egyptian Strands that irrign●t the fertile fields which imbolster both bosomes sending their bordering breath of dayly necessaries to strengthen the life of Barwick Now as for the Nobility and Gentry of the Kingdome certainely as they are generous manly and full of courage so are they courteous discreet learned Schollers well read in best Histories delicate linguists the most part of them being brought vp in France or Italy That for a general compleat worthinesse I neuer found their matches amongst the best people of forrane Nations being also good house keepers affable to strangers and full of Hospitality And in a word the Seas of Scotland and the Iles abound plentifully in all kinde of fishes the Riuers are ingorged with Salmond the high-landish mountaines ouercled with Firre-trees infinite Deere and all sorts of other Bestiall the Valleyes full of pasture and Wild fowle the low layd playnes inriched with beds of grayne Iustice all where administred Lawes obeyed malefactors punished Oppressors curbed the Clergy religious the people sincere professors the Country peaceable to all men The chiefest commodities whereof transported beyond sea are these Wheat Cornes Hides Skins Tallow Yearn Linnen Salt Coale Herrings Salmond Wool Keilling Ling 〈…〉 And last and worst all the Gold of the Kingdome is daily● Transported away with superfluous posting for Court Whence they never returne any thing ●ave Spend all End all then farwell Fortune So that numbers 〈…〉 and Gentry now become with idle projects downe drawers of destruction vpon their owne neckes their children and their estates and posting 〈◊〉 by dissolute courses to inrich Strangers 〈◊〉 themselves deservingly desolate of Lands Meanes and Honesty for ever Doing even with their former Vertue long continuance and memory of their noble Ancestors as M. Knoxe did with our glorious Churches of Abb●cies and Monasteries which were the greatest beauty of the kingdome knocking all down to desolation leaving nought to be seene of admirable Edifices but like to the Ruines of Troy Tyrus and Thebes lumpes of Wals and heapes of stones So do our ignoble Gallants though nobly borne swallow vp the honour of their famous Predecessours with posting foolery boy winding Hor●es cormandizing Gluttony Lust and vaine Apparrell making a Transmigration of perpetuity to their present Belly and Backe O lashivi●us e●ds which I have cond●gnely sifted in my last Worke Intitulated Scotlands we●come to King Charles with all the abuses and grievances of the whole Kingdome besides But now leaving Prodigalls to their Purgat●riall P●stings I come to Trace through Rosse Sutherland and Cathnes So iles so abundant in all things ●it to illustrate greatnesse Resplendout Gentry and succour Commons that their f●rtile goodnesse far exceeding my expectation and the affability of the better sort my deservings beeing all of them the best and most bountifull Christmasse keepers the Greekes excepted that euer I saw in the Christian World Whose continuall incorporate Feastings one with another beginning at Saint Andrewes day never end till Shrouetide which Rauished me to behold such great and daily cheare familiar fellow-ship and iouiall chearefulnesse that me thought the whole Winter there seemed to me but the Iubilee of one day And now beeing arrived at Maij to imbarke for Orknay sight time and duty command me to celebrate these following Lines to gratifie the kindnesse of that noble Lord George Earle of Cathnes with his Honourable Cousin and first Accadent of his house the Right worshipful Sir William Sinclair of Catholl Knight Liard of Maij. Sir sighting now thy Selfe and Pallace Faire I finde a novelty and that most rare The time though cold and stormy sharper Sun And far to Summer scarce the Spring begun Yet with good lucke in Februar Saturnes prey Haue I not sought and found out fruitfull May Flank'd with the Marine Coast prospectiue stands Right opposite to the Orcade Iles and Lands Where I for floures ingorg'd strong grapes of Spaine And liquor'd French both Red and white amaine Which Pallace doth contain two foure-squard Courts Graft with braue works where th' Art drawne pensile sports On Hals high Chambers Galleries office Bowres Cells Rooms and Turrets Plat-formes stately Towers Where greene-fac'd gardens set at Floraes feet Make Natures beauty quicke Appelles greet All which surueigh'd at last the mid-most gate Design'd to me the Armes of that great state The Earles of Cathnes to whose praise inbag'd My Muse must mount and here 's my pen incadg'd First then their Armes a Crosse did me produce Limbdlike a Scallet trac'd with fleur du Luce The Lyon red and rag'd two times divided From coyne to coyne as Heraulds have decyded The third joynd stavnce denotes to me a Galley That on their sea-rapt ●oes dare make assailley The fourth a gallant Ship pu●t with taunt saile Gainst them their Ocean dare or Coast assaile On whose bent Creist a Pelican doth sit An Embleme for like loue drawne wondrous fit Who as shee feeds her young with her heart blood Denotes these Lords to theirs like kind like good Whose best Supporters guard both Sea and Land Two sterne drawne Griffons in their strength to stand Their Dictum beares this
verdict for Heauens Ode Ascribd this clause commit thy worke to God O sacred Motto Bishop Sinclairs straine Who turned ●iffes Lord on Scotlands foes agayne Loe here 's the Armes of Cathnes here 's the Stock On which branch'd●boughes relye as on a Rocke But further in I foundlike Armes more patent To kinde Sir William and his line as latent The Primier Accade of that noble race Who for his vertue may reclayme the place Whose Armes with tongue and buckle now they make Fast crosse signe ty'd for a faire Leslyes sake The Lyon hunts o're Land the Ship the Sea The ragged Crosse can scale high wals wee see The wing-layd Gally with her factious oares Both Havens and Floods command and circling shoares The featherd Griffon flees O grim limbd beast That winging Sea and Land vphold● this Creist But for the Pelicans life sprung kind Story Makes honour sing Virtute et Amore. Nay not by blood us she her selfe can do But by her paterne feeding younglings too For which this Patrones Crescent stands so stay That neither Spight nor Tempest can shake Maij Whose Cutchions cleave so fast to 〈…〉 Portends to mee his Armes shall ever bide So Murckles Armes are so except the Rose Spred on the Crosse which Bothwels Armes disclose Whose Vtetine blood he is and present Brother To Cathnes Lord all three sprung from one Mother Bothwels prime Heretrix plight to Hepburnes Race From whom Religious Murckles Rose I trace This Countries instant Shrieve whose Vertue rais'd His honour●d worth his godly life more prais'd But now to rouze their Rootes and how they Sprung See how Antiquity Times triumph Sung This Scaller worth them bl●nch'd for endeavour And Service done to Englands Conquerour With whom from France they first to Britaine came Sprung from a Towne St. Claire now turn'd their name Whose Predecessours by their Val'rous hand Wonne endlesse Fame twice in the Holy●Land Where in that Christian Warre their blood beene lost They loath'd of Gaule and sought our A●bion Coast. Themselves to Scotland came in Cammoires Raigne With good Queene M●rgret and her English traine The Ship from O●knay sayl'd now rul'd by Charles Whereof they Sinclairs long time had beene Earles Whose Lord then William was by Scotlands King Call'd Robert Second First whence Stewarts Spring Sent with his second Sonne to France cross'd Iames Who eighteene yeares liu'd Captivate at Thames This Prisner last turn'd King call'd Iames the First Who Sinclairs Credit kept in Honours thirst The Galley was the Badge of Cathnes Lords As Malcome Cammoirs raigne at lenght Records Which was to Magnus given for Service done Against Mackbaith vsurper of his Crowne The Lyon came by an Heretrix to passe By Marriage whose Sire was surnam'd Dowglas Where after him the Sinclair now Record Was Shriefe of Dumfreis ' and Nidsdales Lord Whose wife was Neece to good King Iames the Third Who for exchange twixt Wicke and Southerne Nidde Did Lands incambiat whence this Cathnes Soile Stands fast for them the rest their Friends recoile Then Circle-bounded Cathnes Cinclairs ground Which Pentland Firth invirones Orknayes sound Whose top is Dunkanes Bay the Root the Ord Long may it long stand fast for their true Lord And as long too Heavens grant what I require The Race of Maij may in that Stocke aspire Till any Age may last Times glasse be runne For Earths last darke Ecclipse of no more Sunne Forsaking Cathnes I imbraced the trembling Surges at Dungsby of strugling Neptune which ingorgeth Pentland or Pictland Firth with nine contrarious Tides eath Tide over-thwarting another with repugnant courses have such violent streames and combustious waves that if these dangerous Births be not rightly taken in passing over the Passengers shall quickely loose sight of life and land for ever yea and one of these tides so forci●le at the backe of Stromaij that it will carry any Vessell back ward in despight of the winds the length of its rapinous current This dreadfull Firth is in breadth betweene the Continent of Cathnes and the I le of South Rannaldshaw in Orknay twelve miles And I devote this credibly in a part of the Northwest end of this Gulfe there is a certaine place of sea where these destracted tydes make their rancountering Randevouze that whirleth ever about cutting in the middle circle a devalling hole with which if either Ship or Boat shall happen to encroach they must quickly either throw over some thing into it as a Barrell a peice of timber and such like or that fatall Euripus shall then suddenly become their swallowing Sepulcher A custome which these bordering Cathenians and Orcadians have ever heretofore observed Arriv'd at South Rannaldshaw an Ile of five miles long and thwarting the I le of Burray I sighted Kirkwall the Metrop●le of Pomonia the mayne Land of Orknay and the onely Mistresse of all the circumjacent Iles being thirty in number The chiefest whereof besides this tract of ground in length twenty sixe and broad five sixe and seven miles are the Iles of Sanda Westra and Stronza Kirkwall it selfe is adorned with the stately and magnifick Church of St. Magnus built by the Danes whose Signiory with the Iles lately it was but indeed for the time present more beautified with the godly life of a most venerable and religious Bishop Mr. George Grahame whom now I may tearme Soveraignity excepted to be the Father of the Countries government then an Ecclesiasticke Prelat The Inhabitants being left void of a Governour or solid Patron are just become like to a broken battell a scattered people without a head hauing but a Burges-Shreiue to administer Iustice and he also an Aliene to them and a Resider in Edenburgh So that in most differences and questions of importance the Plaintiues are inforced to implore the Bishop for their Iudge and hee the aduerse Party for redresse But the more remote p●rts of this auncient little Kingdome as Zetland and the adiacent Iles there haue found such a sting of de●ccular gouerment within these few yeares that these once happy Iles Which long agoe my feet traded ouer are Metamorphosed in the Anatomy of succourlesse oppression and the felicity of the Inhabitants reinuolued within the closet of a Cittadinean cluster But now referring the whole particulars and diuidual descriptions of these Septentrion Iles the mayne continent and the Gigantick Hebridian Iles to my aforesayd worke to be published intitulated Lithgows surueigh of Scotland I send this generall verdict to the world Now having seene most part of thy selfe glore Great Kingdomes Ilands stately Courts rich Townes Most gorgeous showes pomp-glory deckt renownes Hearbagious fields the Pelage-beating shoare Propitious Princes Prelats potent Crownes Smoake shadow'd times curst Churles Misers Clownes Impregnate Forts devalling floods and more Earth-gazing heights Vayle curling Plaines in store Court-rasing honours throwne on envies frownes Worme-vestur'd workes Enamild Arts wits lore Masse-marbled Mansions Mineralls coynd Ore State-superficiall showes swift-glyding Moones I ●oath thy sight pale streames staine watry
last abandoning all scrupulosities I came in boldly and on my right hand as I entred within the doore I espyed the portrayed Image of S. Peter erected of pure Brasse and sitting on a brazen Chaire The fashion of the people is this entring the Church they goe straight to this Idoll and saluting with many crosses his sencelesse body kisse his feete and every one of his severall toes insomuch that those his comfortlesse feete are growne fiery red while his body save his breasts remaineth brazen blew and yet for sooth some of their learned Rabincs will not have this superstition but an humble commemoration of their adored Saints or the like for procuring favour of intercession whilst the erected Idoll interum receiveth all their superfluous abhominations of diurnall worship Next they lay their heads under the sole of his right foote and arising rub their Beades on his hard costed belly thus adoring that breathlesse masse of mettall more then though it were a living creature O wonderfull and strange spectacle that these onely titular Christians should become worse of knowledge then Ethnicke Pagans to worship and reverence the workemanship of mens hands Woe and shame bee unto you all blinde Hereticall Papists Why should you make to your selves Idols and Images of gold silver brasse Iron stone earth and tree And notwithstanding would excuse the matter with a superstitious reason alledging you doe it onely in remembrance where otherwise it is a damnable signe of wilfull obdurate ignorance May not the prohibition of the 2. Commandement of Gods Law which absolutely you abrogate dividing the last Commandement in two confound the errour of this Idolatry ingrafted in your hardned hearts What vertue can be in a lumpe of brasse or what comfort in the devices of handy-crafts-men Alas nothing but eternall sorrow condem●●tion This was one of the lamentable errors I saw in the Roman Sea amongst many other thousands When the foolish Listranes or Licaonians would have sacrificed Buls to the honor of Paul and Barnabas they rent their Cloaths and ran in among the people crying and saying O men why doe you these things we are even men subject to the like passions that you be How is it then That the Apostles being alive would have no acknowledging by any homage of man yet when they are dead the Romanists will worship their counterfeit similitude in stone or tree What unworthy fained Traditions and Superstitious Idolatry What strange new devising trickes they use to plant idle monasteriall Loyterers How many manner of wayes these belly-minded slaves Epicure-like leade their lives And what a Sea of abhominable villany they swimme into practising even unnaturall vices I meane of their wrongfully called Religious Bishops Priests Friers Curates and all the hypocriticall crew of these pervers'd Iebusites no heart can expresse nor the most eloquent tongue can sufficiently unfold Whose luxurious lives are vulgarly promulga● in this Hispanicall Proverbe Vnnas tienen de gatto y el habito de beato El cruz en los Pechos y el diabolo en los hechos They have a Cats clawes and a blest Saints weed The crosse on their breasts the Divell 's in their deed But for feare of Excommunication from that Antichristian Curtezan I dare not persevere longer herein although I can yea and so truely bewray their all-corrupted estate that I need no information of any Romane Novice Traveller Of whose sight and experience would God all the Papists in Brittaine had the like eye-witnessing approbation as I have had I am certainly perswaded with tears sighes they would heavily bemoane the terrible fall of that Babylonish whoore which in prophane estimation is their holy mother Church For I sincerely sweare to thee O faithfull Christian as the Italian usually doth in his humours by the golden tripled Crowne of my ghostly Father Paulo Papa quinto whatsoever sacriledge incest or villany a Paplst committeth let him come here and fill the bribing hands of the Limonaicall Minions of the thrice crowned Priest for Roma non captat ovem sine lana And he shall have Indulgences Dispensations adjoyned Penances or absolved Offences for hundreds thousands lesse or more yeares The period of Time after eight and twenty dayes abode wishing my departure I hardly escaped from the hunting of these blood-sucking Inquisitors of which the most part were mine owne Country-men the chiefest of whom was Robert Mophet a Iesuit borne in St. Andrewes David Chambers and of our Colledge there one Gordon and one Cuningham borne in the Cannon-gate of Edenborough And to speake truth if it had not beene for Robert Meggat borne neere to Newbattle then resident in Burgo di Roma with the old Earle of Tyrone who hid mee secretly for three dayes in the top of his Lords Pallace when all the streetes and ports of Rome were laid forme who conveighing me away at the fourth mid-night and leapt the walles of Rome with mee I had doubtlesse dyed as hot a death as a Lady Prioresse of Naples did afterward in my second Travells And for better record Patricke Baxster now dwelling in Dundy and then followed the Earle of Tyron can justifie the same my custody and mine escape being both within his knowledge Yet I may justly affirme it in these parts a man can finde no worser enemie then his Nationall supposed friend Religion being the cause of it and at home none more false nor deceitfull than a bosome friend Mens mindes their praises best loves and kind conceits They hurling come and goe like fish at baits And the Italian saith in his Proverbe God keepe mee from the hurt of my friends for I know well how to keepe me from mine enemies From thence bound East-ward I visited Naples the commendations of which I revolve in this verse Inclyta Parthenope gignit Comitesque Ducesque Most noble Naples breeds but Dukes and Earles And gallant Knights and Ladies load with Pearles Amongst many other things neare to this City which in the conclusion of this Historicall discourse be more particularly expressed were Lacus Avernus Sibillaes Cave Puteoli the Sulphurean mountaine Capua and Cuma where banished Aeneas from Troy and Carthage arrived I saw the Monument of Virgills buriall standing in the fore face of his owne Grotto that is cut through the mountaine of Cataia being passable for Coaches and a halfe mile long and affixed these lines thereupon In Mantua from mothers wombe I first conceived breath Parthenope reserve the Tombe My Sepulcher of Death Italy was called so of Italus a King in Sicily which first taught the people agriculture The more impropriated names were Hesperia because it is scituate under the evening Starre Hesperus Latium because Saturne driven from Creet by his Sonne Iupiter hic latebat abditus and Ae●otria in regard of the aboundance of wines it produceth This Country was first said to bee inhabited by Ianus Anno Mundi 1925. From whom sprung the tribes of the Samnites Sabines Laurentani and
the World Mine aforesaid Consort and I having spent ten dayes in viewing and reviewing this City and circum●acent Isles and my purpose reaching for Greece and Asia as hee was to recrosse the snowy Alpes my muse remembreth our sad departure Now friendly Arthur le●t me courts the maine Of pleasant Lombardy by Trent againe Beares through the Alpes in his 〈◊〉 wayes And past Bavaria where Danub●o strayes He fell on Rhyne and downe these curlings came Then ship'd for Albion neere to Ro●terdame And coasting Is●s view'd that royall court Where once Appollo did in glory sport Fraught with Ambrosian Nec●ar crown'd his dayes O● Pindus tops to have Mecenas praise This light obumbrat Arthur courts the North And serv'd a noble Earle of ancient worth Full eighteene yeares till death that darts our woe First smote his Lord and then his Countesse so Now they are fled and he is left alone Till heavens provide his hopes some happy one Which if to his desert such fortune came A Princely service might his merit clayme Where wishing both his fate and worth to be I 'le Venice leave and visite Lombardy In the time of my staying here I went forth to Lombardy and visited the famous Cities of Padua Verona and Ferrar● The commendation of which is celebrated in these verses Extollit Paduam juris studiam medicinae Verona humanae d●t singula commoda vitae 〈◊〉 loculos ferrarea ●errea 〈◊〉 In P●dua I stayed three moneths learning the Italian tongue and found there a Country Gentlemen of mine Doctor Iohn Wed●erburne a learned Mathematician 〈◊〉 now dwelling in Moravia who taught mee well in the Language and in all other respects exceeding friendly to me Padua is the most melancholy City in Europe the cause onely arising of the narrow passage of the open streetes and of the long Galleries and darke-ranges of pillars that goe alwhere on every hand of you through the whole streetes of the Towne The Schollers here in the night commit many 〈◊〉 against their privat adversaries and too often executed upon the stranger and innocent and all with 〈…〉 for beastly Sodomy it is as rife heere as in Rome Naples Florence 〈…〉 The Second Part. NOw step I o're the gulfe to th' Istrian sh●are Dalmatia Slavonia Ilyria more Valona Albana Epyre in Greece And Morea fat where Iason hurt his fleece The Adriaticke and Ionean Iles And Lesinaes great monster Athens styles With Lacedemon sackt and Sparta rent From ancient worth Arcadia poore and shent Our gulfe Lepanto the Aetolian hight And all these coasts till Candy come in sight AFter my returne from Pad●a to Venice 24. daye● attendance devasted there for passage ● imbarked in a Car●●esalo being bound to Zara Novo in Dalmatia scarcely had we lost the sight of Venice but we incountred with a deadly storme at Seroc●e Lenante The Master had no compasse to direct his course neither was he expert in Navigation because they use commonly either on the South or North sides of the Gulfe to hoise up sayles at night and againe breake of day they have full sight of land taking their directions from the topped hill● of the maine continent The tempest increasing and the winds contrary we were constrained to seeke up for the Port of Parenzo in Istria Istria was called Giapidia according to Pliny Cato affirmeth it was called Istria of one Isir● but by the moderne Writers L'ultima Regione di Italia By 〈◊〉 it is said to bee of length 100. miles and forty large but by mine experience onely 80. long and 20. large Istria hath on the South Friuli and the Sea on the West Stria on the North Carniola on the East the Gulfe Carnar● or Quev●ro It is thought the Istrians were first a people of Colchis in Natolia who by King Aet●s being sent to persue Iason and the Argona●ts who had stolne the golden Fleece and his daughter Medea either because of the long journey or feare of the Kings anger durst not returne and so remained in this Country where they enjoyed a long freedom til by many incursions of piracy still molesting the Venetians they lost many of their Townes Anno 938. afterward the whole Country made tributary by Duke Henry Gondolo about the yeare 1200. That part which bordereth with the Sea belongeth to the Venetians but the rest within land holds of the Emperour and the Arch Duke of Austria The Country it selfe aboundeth in Cornes wines and all kinds of fruites necessary for humane life Neere to this Haven wherein wee lay expecting roome windes I saw the ruines of old Iustinopoli so called of Iustinian the Emperour who builded it upon an Iland of eight miles length and three acres broad and to passe betwixt the City and the firme land there was seven bridges made It was anciently strong but now altogether decayed the principall Cities in Istria at this day are these Parenzo Humag● Pola Rouigo The windes favouring us we weighed Anchors and sayled by the Iles Brioni so much esteemed for the fine stones they produce called Istriennes which serve to beautifie the Venetian Palaces About mid-day I saw Mount di Caldaro on the foote of which the ancient City of Pola is situated having a harbour wherein small ships may lye True it is this Port is not much frequen●ed in respect of a contagious Lake neere to it which in●●cteth the Ayre with a filthy exhalation I saw hard by this place the ruines of the Castle di Oriando the Arke Iriumphant and the reliques of a great Amphitheatre This Pola was called by Pliny Iulia pietas and it standeth in the South-east part of Istria Continuing our course we ●assed the perillous gulfe of Carnaro This gulfe or bay of Carnaro runneth in North and by 〈◊〉 50. miles within land at the narrow entry whereof it hath a part of Istria on the West and Dalmatia on the East The Venetians use to keepe alwaies certaine Gallies at the mouth of this bay on the Dalmatian side to intercept the cursary of the Scoks In the bottome of this Carnarian gulfe are placed Senna Gradisca and Novagard the chiefe Cities of Croatia the people which inhabit these Townes and the adjoyning Country are called Scoks a kind of Dalmatians being of a robust nature couragious and desperate Their weapons are broad two handed swords long Skenes carrying Targets at their girdles and long Gunnes in their hands they are marvellous swift on foote and daily annoy by land their neighbouring Turkes with inrodes fetching away great spoyles and booties of Cornes Cattell and Horses and by Sea with Frigots and Brigantines did ever and often vexe the Venetian commerce in their owne domesticke waters the great losses which from these incursive people the Venetians had from time to time received and the other dammages they inflicted upon the Turkes in their Trafficking with Venice for whom the Venetians are bound by former Articles of peace to keepe harmelesse within their owne
refused to come ashoare there for that was the first impression of their false conceived jealousie Next hee asked mee if I knew his name and the other Captains and what their names were and what their intention was or if I had knowne of their comming abroad or preparation for it before my departure from England The Scrivan writing downe mean-while every word hee spoke and what I answered well to all the former particulars giving condigne satisfaction and to the last denying that I knew of the forth comming of the Fleet they all foure gave a shout in the contrary Whereupon the Governour swearing cursed and said Thou lyest like a Villain thou art a Spie and a Traytor and camest directly from England of purpose to Spaine and hath beene lying nine moneths in Sivilia getting sure intelligence when the Spanish Navy was looked for from the Indies and that thou expresly here came to meete with the English Armado knowing of their drift to give them credible knowledge thereof And that by thy information they might the more readily compasse their ends and thus thy treachery and subtilty hath been imployed Whereat I being astonished and seriously answering for the intention of the English Fleet and my owne innocencie concerning them Hee threatning said I was seene familiar a Board and a shoare with the whole Captaines and knowne to be of their speciall acquaintance besides three hundred other Gentlemen and Mariners with whom and they with thee were so inward that it far exceeded the kindnesse of accidentall meeting All this wee saw and hourely remarked said hee and thou art newly come from the Generall when thou wast taken where consulting with their Connsell of Warre this morning concerning what they assigned thee to accomplish thou hast delivered thy opinion and the expectation of Sivilia touching the return of his Majesties Armado di Plato and therefore thou art a Spiono a Traytour and a scelerate Velacco for wee are not ignorant said he of the burning of Saint Thome in the West Indies for there and then wee had a certaine evidence of the English infidelitie and treacherous exploits in time of Peace Wherefore these Lutherans and sonnes of the Devill ought not from us good Catholicks to receive no credit Whereupon I besought him to send for some sufficient English Factors there sojourning who would testifie the contrary in my behalfe their Countrey and their Fleete but that hee would not for my being discovered At last seeing his damnable opinion and to cleare my selfe of such false imputations I requested him to send a Sergeant to my Possado or lodging for my Cloakbag where he should see a more evident Testimony of my carriage and honest purpose and thereupon the approbation of my Prince This demaund liked him well thinking thereby to finde out all the secrets and practise of my Negotiation with the English Fleete Whereupon forthwith and with close Circumspection he had it brought unto him my hostage House not knowing where I was The Cloakbag I opened my selfe and showing him his Majesties Letters in parchment and under his Hand and Seale dated at Theobals 1619. Iuly 17 and compiled and wrot by Mr. Thomas Read then secretary for the Latin Tongue done in my behalfe and my intended Resolution for Aethiopia the Kings safe Conduct hee mis-regarded giving it neither respect nor trust After which I show'd him divers patents Seales and the great seale of Ierusalem Pasports and my Booke of armes called Liber amicorum wherein I had the hand writs and armes of sundry Kings Dukes Princes Vice Royes Marquesses Earles Lords and Governors c. done in Prose and Verse in Greeke Latine or their maternall tongues being as propitious pledges of their favour in commendation of mee and of my Travailes But all these would not satisfie him nay rather confirming a greater jealousie of his former suspition whereupon misconstruing all they seased absolutely upon my Cloak-bag viewing and detaining all I had at their pleasure including me the third time This done and within night being Represented againe the Governour commanding me to subscribe my Confession which I voluntarily obeyed though they still urged me further and further to confesse Meane while these foure Complices consulting about my Imprisonment the Aleade or chief Justice would have had me along with him to the Towne Jayle but the Corrigidor refused saying Para non star visto con sus Pesanos that hee may not bee seene by his Country-men it behoveth me to have a care of his concealment and I warrant you said hee I ●hall lodge him well enough Upon the knowledge of this that I was secretly to be incarcerate in the governours Palace entered the Mr. Sergeant and begged my money and Licence to search for it and liberty granted he found in my pockets eleve● Philippoes or ducatons and then uncloathing me bef●re their eyes even to my shirt and searching my breeches he found in my Doublet necke fast shut between two Canvesses one hundred thirty seven double peeces of gold Whereat the Corrigidor arose and couuting my gold being five hundred forty eight Ducats he said to the Sergant cloath him againe and inclosed him there in the Cabinet till after supper meanewhile the Sergeant got the eleven duccatons of Silver and my gold which was to carrie me for Aethiopia the Governour seased upon giving afterwards two hundred Crowns of it to supply the new laid foundation of a Capuschine monastery there reserving the rest being 348 duccats for his own avaritious ends Whereupon beholding my inevitable misery and such monster-made irons my sighing soule replyed thus Alas Sergant and you two Slaves remarke in mee the iust Iudgments of god and loe how the Heavens have reducted mee to this meritorious reward and truely deserved for I have dearely and truely bought it that I whose leggs and feete the whole universe could scarcely containe now these bolts and irons keepe then fast in a body length of a stonepaved Floore O foolish pride O suppressing ambition and vaporous curiosity woe worth the fury of your aspiring vanities you have taken mee over the face of the earth and now left mee in a Dungeon hole My soule O my soule is leager unto this prouerbe Man proposeth and God disposeth O happ●had I beene thrice happy in a Shepehards life Thus and more lamenting the destiny of nature they left mee with solacious words and straight returned againe with victuals being a pound of boild Mutton a wheat bread and a small pint of Wine which was the first the best and the last of this kinde that ever I got in that woefull Mansion The Sergeant leaving me never seeing him more till a more unwelcome sight hee directed the Slaues that after I had contented my discontented appetite they should lock the doore and carry the keyes to Areta a Spaniard and keeper of the silver plate A little while after hee was gone the other drudge left me also who was newly turned Christian where
for what you Gulls Suspect After this their sequell answere being mortified and I set at liberty by a just favour of the Privy Councell my formalists durst never attempt any further dispute with me neither any passing countenance in our rancounters But what shall I say concerning my grievances Sed qui Patitur vincit Since there is no helpe or Redresse to bee had for wrongs past no neither alasse for any present in either meane or mighty falls for when the Starres of great states decline under the selfe-same constellation of my sorrowes and made the deplored for spectacles of the inconstancy of fortune what shall I then in a priuate life and publicke pilgrimage expect but the common calamity of this age and the irrevocable redresse of my miseries sustained for this Crowne and Kingdom of England which shall be presently cleared yet would to God I might do as Xerxes the Persian King did that when the Greekes had taken Sardis the Metropole of Lydia he commanded one of his servants to stand before him every day at dinner and cry aloud saying the Grecians have taken Sardis whereby he was never at quiet till it was recovered So would I oppressed I by mighty powers though not a King yet the faythfull subiect of a King cry dayly from the heart broken sorrow of my incompatible injuries O barbarous and inhumane Malaga when shall my soule be revenged on thy cruell murther and when shall mine eyes see thy mercilesse destruction but tush what dreame I now a dayes griefe can finde no reliefe far lesse compassion and meaner revenge and so farewell satisfaction when flattering feare dare challeng obsequiousnesse to the alteration of any thing But afterward when death Heavens fatal messenger and enemy to nature had darted King Iames of matchlesse memory who somtimes besides my soveraigne in some respects and for the former cause was a father to me then was I forcibly I say constrayned to preferre a bill of grievance to the upper house of Parliament Anno 1626. which I dayly followed 17. weekes well my grievances were heard and considered and thereupon an order granted me bearing the Lords reference pleasure concerning my suite vnto Sir Thomas Coventrey Lord keeper of Englands great Seale and through whose office my businesse should have passed which order was delivered unto him by Mr. Iames Maxwell Knight of the blacke Rod and one of his Majesties Bed chamber in behalfe of the Lords of the upper house the order thus being reserved then with the Lord Keeper for a moneth he appointed me to fetch him because of a Warrant to his State office the Certificats of Sir Walter Aston Sir Robert Maunsell and Sir Thomas Button to cleare my sufferings and the causes wherefore which I gladly obeyed and brought all their three Certificates unto him yea and Sir Walter Aston besides his hand writ spoke seriously face to face with him there anent Meane while the house breaking up abruptly because of soveraigne disliking their order for my suite could take none effect as then nor yet since in regard it was no Session of Parliament and so my order and relief lyeth suspended till some happy time But now to confound the calumnious and vituperious Papists the miscreant and miserable Atheists the Peevish and selfe opinionating Puritans the faithles misbeleeving Mungrells of true Religion and of this trueth And the very obiections have beene sayd sometimes in my face by irreligious and disdainfull Nullifidians who have said and thought that I could neither be so constant nor they so cruell I thinke it not amisse to set downe verbally one of their Certificates here being all o● one stile and to one purpose and thus it followeth To the Right Honorable Sir Thomas Coventry Knight Lord Keeper of the great Seale of England c. MAy it please your Honour I have taken boldnesse to certifie your good Lordship of the trueth concerning the grievous sufferings of this heavily injured man William Lithgow true it is that this bearer being bound for Alexandria in Egypt having with him Letters of safe conduct under the Hand and Seale of his late Majesty King James of blessed memory rancountred with us and our Fleete at Malaga Whereof I was imployed as Vice-Admirall against the Pyrats of Algier where he repayring a Boord of us and frequenting our Company ashoore was presently after we had set Sayle apprehended by command of the Governor and Magistrates there as a Spie whom they suspected had of purpose beene left behind by our Generall and us of the Counsell of Warre for the Discovery of that place and other adjacent parts Whereupon being secretly imprisoned in the Governours Palace and after serious examination of our intention he was without any cause done or offered by him most uniustly put to the cruell Racke and tortures besides all other his vnspeakable miseries which for a long time he sustained thereafter whereof I was credibly and infallibly informed by Mr Richard Wilds to whom he was first discovered and by other English Factors of good note then resid●nt there In my repayring diverse times to the Roade of that towne with my Squadron of shippes during the time of his long imprisonment and after his deliverance And afterward the Governour there beeing better informed of our loyall proceedings in those parts and to colour their former cruelties and suspition had of us hee did wrest the Inquisition vpon him where being condemned to Death he had doubtlesse vndergone as I was likewise truely informed by the afore-said Merchants the finall Sentence of their Inquisition if it had not beene for the Religious care and speedy prevention of Sir Walter Aston then Leiger Ambassadour there By whose earnest mediation he being delivered and afterwards sent home by direction of Sir Robert Maunsell Generall I now commend his grieuous and lamentable cause vnto your Lordshipps tender and Religious Consideration Resting From Fulham this tenth of Iuly 1626. Your Lordships Command to serve You Thomas Button Knight and Vice-Admirall And now to conclude this Tragical discourse the Religious eye may perceive Gods compassionate love foure wayes here extended First his powerfull providence in my long and admirable preservation in Prison hunger Vermine and Tortures being my comfortlesse Companions Secondly the pittifull kindnes of his All●seeing Eye in the miraculous Wonder of my Discovery when the perverted policy of subtile Serpents had sceleratly suggested my concealement Thirdly his vnspeakable mercy in my vnlooked-for deliverance beeing by hopelesse me not thought nor sought and yet by his munificence was wrought And lastly his gracious goodnesse in the recovery after some large measure of my health and vse of my body againe all praise and glory be to his infinite Majesty therefore ANd finally merit beeing masked with the darkenesse of ingratitude and the morning Spring-tide of 1627 come I set face from Court for Scotland suiting my discontents with a pedestriall Progresse and my feete with the palludiat way where fixing mine eyes
on Edenbrugh and prosecuting the Tennor of a Regall Commission which partly beeing some-where obeyed and other-where suspended it gave mee a large sight of the whole Kingdome both Continent and Iles. The particular Description whereof in all parts and of all places besides Ports and Rivers I must referre to the owne Volume already perfected In●i●ula●ed Lit●g●wes Surueigh of Scotland which this Worke may not Containe nor time suffer to publish till a fi●ter ●ccasion Only Commenting a little upon some generalls I hasten to be at Finis Traversing the Westerne Iles whose inhabitants like to as many Bulwarkes are abler and apter to preserve and defend their libertie and precincts from incursive invasions then any neede of Forts or Fortified places they have or can be required there Such is the desperate courage of these awfull Hebridians I arrived I say at the I le of Arrane Anno 1628. where for certayne dayes in the Castle of Braidwicke I was kindly intertayned by the illustrious Lord Iames Marquesse of Hammilton Earle of Arrane and Cambridge c. Whom GGD may strengthen with the liveliest Heart And fearelesse Minde of all ere fac'd that Art For Bohems Queene Heauens prosper His intent With Glorious Successe and a Braue euent That by a King beene Sped for a Kings Sake To helpe a King all Three from Him may take Auspicuous Seruice frienship faithfull Loue Gainst whom and his no time can breach improue Let then great God blest Sparkes of fauour fall On his Designes and Theirs our Friends and All And Angels Guard Him let Thy Mighty hand Partition-like twixt Him and dangers stand That Martiall ends and Victory may Crowne His happie Hopes his Life with Loue Renowne This I le of Arrane is thirty miles long eight in bread●h and distant from the Maine twenty foure Miles being sur-clouded with Goatfield Hill which with wide-eyes ouer-looketh our Westerne Continent and the Northerne Countrey of Ireland bringing also to ●igh● in a cleare Summers day the I le of Manne and t●e higher Coast of Cumberland A larger prospect no Mountaine in the World can show poynting out three Kingdomes at one sight Neither any like Isle or brauer Gentry for good Archers and hill-houering Hunters Hauing againe re-shoared the Maine I coasted Galloway euen to the Mould that butteth into the Sea with a large Promontore being the south-most part of the Kingdome And thence footing all that large Countrey to Dumfreis and so to Carlile I found heere in Galloway in diuerse Rode-way Innes as good Cheare Hospitality and Seruiceable attendance as though I had beene ingrafted in Lombardy or Naples The Wool of which Countrey is nothing inferiour to that in Biscai of Spaine prouiding they had skill to fine Spin Weaue and labour it as they should Nay the Calabrian silke had neuer a better luster and softer gripe then I haue seene and touched this growing wool there ●n sheepes backes the Mutton whereof excelleth in sweetnesse So this Country aboundeth in Bestiall especially in little Horses which for mettall and Riding may rather be tearmed bastard Barbes then Gallowediau Nagges Likewise their Nobility and Gentry are as courteous and euery way generously disposed as either discretion would wish and honour Command that Cunningham being excepted which may be called the Accademy of Religion for a sanctified Clergy and a godly people certainly Galloway is become more ciuill of late then any Maritine Country bordering with the Westerne Sea But now to obserue my former Summary condition the length of the Kingdome lyeth South and North that is betweene Dungsby head in Cathnes and the fore-said Mould of Galloway being distant● per rectam li●eam which my weary feet ●road ouer from poynt to poynt the way of ●ochreall Carrick Kyle Aire Glasgow Stirueling St. Iohns Towne Stormount the Blair of Ath●ll the Br● of Mar Badeynoh Innernes Rosse Sutherland and so to the North Promontore of Cathnes extending to three hundred twenty miles which I reck●n to be foure hundred and fifty English miles Confounding hereby the ignorant presumption of blind Cosmographers whom their Mappes make England longer than Scotland when contrariwise Scotland out-strippeth the other in length a hundred and twenty miles The breadth whereof I grant is narrower than England yet extending betweene the extremities of both Coasts in diuers parts to threescore fourescore and a hundred of our miles But because of the Sea ingulfing the Land and cutting it in so many Angles making great Lakes Bayes and dangerous Firths on both sides of the Kingdome the true breadth thereof cannot iustly be coniectured nor soundly set downe Our chiefest fresh water Lakes are these Lochlomond contayning twenty ●oure Iles and in length as many miles divers whereof are inriched with Woods Deere and other Bestiall The large and long Lake of Loch Tay in Atholl the Mother and Godmother of Head-strong Tay the gr●atest Riuer in the Kingdome And Lochnes in the higher parts of Murray the Riuer whereof that graceth the pleasant and commodious situation of Innerne● no ●rost can freize The propriety of which water wil quickly melt and dissolue any hard congealed lumps of frozen ●ce be it on Man or Beast stone or tim●er The chiefest Rivers are Clyde Tay Tweed Forth Dee Spay Nith Nesse and Dingwells flood ingorging Lake that confirmeth Porta salutis being all of them where they returne their tributs to their father Ocean portable and as it were resting places for turmoyled seas and ships And the principall Townes are Edenbrough Perth Glasgow Dundie Abirdene St Andrewes Aire Stirveling Lithgow Dumfreis Innernes Elgin Minros Iedburgh Hadington Leith c. and for antiquity old Lanerk c. So the most delicious soiles of the Kingdome are these following first the bounds of Clyde or Cliddisdale betweene Lanerk and Dunbertan distanced twenty sixe miles and thence downeward to Rossay that kisseth the divulgements of the River the beginning whereof is at Arick● stone sixeteene miles above Lanerk whose course contendeth for threescore miles All which being the best mixed Country for Cornes Meeds Pastorage Woods Parks Orchards Castles Pallaces divers kinds of Coale and earth-fewell that our included Albion produceth And may justly be surnamed the Paradise of Scotland Besides it is adorned on both borders along with the greatest peeres and Nobility in the Kingdome The Duke of Lennox the Marques of Hammilton the Earle of Angus the Earle of Argile and the Earles of Glencarne Wigton and Abircorn And for Lord Barons Semple Rosse Blantyre and Dalliell The chiefest Gentry whereof are the Knights and Lairds of Luce Skell murelie Bl●khall Greenock Newwark Houston Pook-maxwell Sir George Elpingston of Blythswood Minto Cambusnethen Calderwood the two Knights of Lieye and Castel-hill Sir Iames Lokharts elder yonger Lamington Westraw his Majesties Gentleman Sewer Blakwood Cobinton Stanebyres and Corhous c. All which in each degree as they illuminat the soile with grandure so the soyle reflecteth on them againe with beauty bounty and riches But least I partiall prove