impeach his designes and further at Stanes a Maire-stone once stood for a marke of Iurisdiction that London had so farre vpon Thamesis 7 Which Citie is more ancient then any true record beareth fabuled from Brute Troynouant from Lud Ludstone But by more credible Writers Tacitus Ptolemy and Antonine Londinium by Aminianâ—â— Mercellinus for her successiue prosperitie Augusta the greatest title that can be giuen to any by Britaines Londayn by Strangers Londra and by vs London This Citie doth shew as the Cedars among other trees being the seat of the British Kings the chamber of the English the modell of the Land and the Mart of the world for thither are brought the silke of Asia the spices from Africa the Balmes from Grecia and the riches of both the Indies East and West no Citie standing so long in same nor any for diuine and politicke gouernment may with her be compared Her walls were first set by great Constantine the first Christian Emperour at the suit of his mother Qu Helen reared with rough stone and British Bricke three English miles in compasse thorow which are now made seauen most faire gates besides three other passages for entrance Along the Thamesis this wall at first ranged and with two gates opened the one Doure-gate now Dowgate and the other Billinsgate a receptacle for Ships In the midst of this wall was set a mile-marke as the like was in Rome from whence were measured their stations for carriage or otherwise the same as yet standeth and hath beene long knowne by the name of London Stone Vpon the East of this Citie the Church of S. Peters is thought to be the Cathedrall of Restitus the Christians Bishops See who liued in the raigne of Great Constantine but since S. Pauls in the West part from the Temple of Diana assumed that dignitie whose greatnesse doth exceed any other at this day and spires so high that twice it hath beene consumed by lightning from heauen Besides this Cathedrall God is honoured in one hundred twentie one Churches more in this Citie that is ninetie six within the wals sixteene without but within the Liberties and nine more in her Suburbs and in Fâ—z Stephens time thirteene Conuents of religious Orders It is diuided into 26 Wards gouerned by so many graue Aldermen a Lord Maior and two Sherifs the yearely choice whereof was granted them by Patent from King Iohn in whose time also a Bridge of stone was made ouer Thames vpon nineteene Arches for length breadth beautie and building the like againe not found in the world 8 This London as it were disdaning bondage hath set her selfe on each side far without the walls and hath lefther West-gate in the midst from whence with continuall buildings still affecting greatnesse she hath continued her streets vnto a Kings Palace and ioyned a second Citie to her selfe famous for the Seat and Sepulchre of our Kings and for the Gates of Iustice that termely there are opened onely once a Bishops See whose title died with the man No walls are set about this Citie and those of London are left to shew rather what it was then what it is Whose Citizens as the Lacedemonians did doe impute their strength in their men and not in their wals how strong toeuer Or else for their multitude cannot be circulated but as another Ierusalem is inhabited without walls as Zachary said The wealth of this Citie as Isay once spake of Nilus growes from the Reuenewes and haruest of her South-bounding Thames whose traffique for merchandizing is like that of Tyrus whereof Ezekiel speakes and stands in abundance of Siluer Iron Tinne and Lead c. And from London her channell is nauigable straitned along with medowing borders vntill she taketh her full libertie in the German Seas Vpon this Thamesis the Ships of Tharsis seeme to ride and the Nauy that rightly is termed the Lady of the Sea spreads her saile Whence twice with luckie successe hath beene accomplished the compassing of the vniuersall Globe This Riuer Canutus laying siege against London sought by digging to diuert and before him the Danes had done great harmes in this Citie yet was their State recouered by King Elfred and the Riuer kept her olde course notwithstanding that cost In the times of the Normans some ciuill broiles haue beene attempted in this Citie as in the dayes of King Iohn whereinto his Barons entred and the Tower yeelded vnto Lewis And againe Wat Tyler herein committed outragious cruelties but was worthily struck downe by the Maior and slaine in Smithfield This Cities graduation for Latitude is the degree 51. 45. minutes and in Longitude 20. degrees 39. minutes 9 In this Countie at Barnet vpon Easter-day a bloudy battell was fought betwixt Henry the sixt and Edward the fourth wherein were slaine one Marques one Earle three Lords and with them ten thousand Englishmen ESSEX CHAPTER XV. ESSEX by the Normans exsessa and by the vulgar Essex is a Countie large in compasse very populous and nothing inferiour to the best of the Land 2 The â—orme thereof is somewhat Circular excepting the East part which shooteth her selfe with many Promontories into the Sea and from Horsey Iland to Haidon in the West the broadest part of the Shire are by measure fortie miles and the length from East-Haâ—â— vpon Thamesis in the South to Sâ—urmere vpon the Riuer Stow in the North are thirtie-fiue miles the whole in Circumference one hundred fortie sixe miles 3 It lyeth bounded vpon the North with Suffolke and Cambridge-Shires vpon the West with Hertford and Middlesex vpon the South by Thamesis is parted from Kent and the East-side thereof is altogether washed with the German Sea 4 The ayre is temperate and pleasant onely towards the waters somewhat aguish the soile is rich and fruitfull though in some places sandy and barren yet so that it neuer frustrates the husbandmans hopes or fils not the hands of her haruest-labourers but in some part so fertile that after three yeares glebe of Saffron the Land for 18. more will yeeld plentie of Barley without either dung or other fatning earth 5 Her ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romanes were by Caesar called the Trinobants of whom in the former Chapter we haue spoken and in our History shall speake more at large But this name perished with the age of the Empire the Saxons presently framed a new and with Hertford and Middlesex made it their East-Saxons Kingdome vntill that Egbert brought this and the whole into an entire and absolute Monarchy the Daues after them laid so sore for this Prouince that at â—eamfleet and Hauenet now Shobery they fortified most strongly and at Barklow besides the hils mounted for their burials the Danewort with her red beryes so plentifully grow that it is held and accounted to spring from the bloud of the Danes which in that place was spilt and the hearb as yet is called from them the Danes-bloud neither yet were they quelled to surcease that quarrell but at Ashdowne
one in An. 1348. was so outragious as 17104. are reported to haue died thereof betweene the Calends of Ianuary and of Iuly By misery of warre as sacked and spoyled by the Earle of Flaunders and Hugh Bigâ—d Anno 1174. In yeelding to Lewis the French against their naturall Lord King Iohn Anno 1216. By the disinherited Barons An. 1266. By tumult and insurrection betweene the Citizens and Church-men once about the yeare 1265. which if Henry the third had not come in person to appease the Citie was in hazard to be ruined The second time in Anno 1446. for which the Major was deposed and their Liberties for a while selfed In Edward the sixths time by Ketts rebellion whose fury chiefly raged against this Citie Since this it hath flourished with the blessings of Peace Plentie Wealth and Honour so that Alxander Neuâ— doubteth not to preferre it aboue all the Cities of England except London It is situate vpon the Riuer Hierus in a 〈◊〉 valley but on using ground hauing on the East the Hilles and Heath called Mussold for Most-would as I take it In the 17 yeare of King Stephen it was new founded and made a Corporation In Edward the firsts time closed with a same Wall â—auing on a part that the Riuer defendeth First gouerned by foure Bayliffes then by Henry the fourth in An 1403. erected into a Majoraltie and County the limits whereof now extend to Eatonbâ—â—ge At this present it hath about thirtie Parishes but in ancient time had many more 6 Lenn hauing beene an ancient Borrough vnder the Gouernment of a Bayliffe or Reue called Praepositus was by King Iohn in the sixt yeare of his Raigne made Liber Burgus and besides the gift of his memorable Cup which to this day honoureth this Corporation endowed with diuers faire Liberties King Henry the third in the 17 yeare of his Raigne in recompence of their seruice against the out-lawed Barons in the Isle of Ely enlarged their Charter and granted them further to choose a Major Loco Prapositi vnto whom King Henry the Eight in the sixteenth yeare of his Raigne added twelue Aldermen a Recorder and other Officers and the bearing of a sword before the Major But the Towne comming after to the same King he in the twentie-ninth of his Raigne changed their name from Mator Burgeâ—ses Lenn Episcopi to Mator Burgeâ—ses Lenn Regis 7 Yarmouth is the Key of the Coast named and seated by the mouth of the Riuer Yere Begun in the time of the Vâ—nes and by small accessions growing populous made a Corporation vnder two Bayliffes by King Henry the third and by his Charter about the fifteenth yeare of his Raigne walled It It is an ancient member of the Ciâ—que Ports very well built and fortified hauing onely one Church but faire and large founded by Bishope Herbert in William Rufus dayes It maintaineth a Peere against the Sea at the yearely charge of fiue hundred pound or thereabout yet hath it no possessions as other Corporations but like the children of Aeolâ—â— and Thetis Maria 4. ventos as an Inquisitor findeth An. 10. Hen 3. There is yearely in September the worthiest Herring-fishing in Europe which draweth great concourse of people and maketh the Towne much the richer all the yeare but very vnsauoury for the time The Inhabitants are so curteous as they haue long held a custome to feast all persons of worth repairing to their Tovvne 8 The Bishopricke of Norwich had first hereseat at Dunwich in Suffolke and was there begun by Foelix who conuerted this Countie and the East-Angles to the Faith Being brought out of Burgundie by Sigeberâ— the first Christian King of the East-Angles he landed at Babingley by Lenn and there builded the first Church of these Countries which in his memory is at this day called by his Name The second he built at Sharâ—â—bourn then of wood and therefore called Stock-Chappell After Foelix and three of his Successors this Bishopricke was diuided into two Sees the one with eleuen Bishops in succession continuing at Dunwich the other with twelue at Elmham in Norfolke Then vnited againe in the time of King Edwyn the entire See for twelue other Bishops remained at Elmham and in the Conquerours time was by his Chaplaine Arfastus being the thirteenth translated to Thetford from thence by Herbert his next Successor saue one bought of W. Rusus for 1900. pounds and brought to Norwich This Herbert surnamed Losinga a Norman builded the Cathedrall Church there and endowed it with large possessions Not far from thence he also builded another Church to S. Leonard a third at Elmham a fourth at Lenn S. Margarets a very faire one and the fifth at Yarmouth before mentioned By the Cathedrall Church he builded a Palace for the Bishops and founded the Priory there now conuerted to Deane and Chapter and another Priory at Thetford Since his time the Bishops See hath immoueably remained at Norwich but the ancient Possession are seuered from it and in lieu thereof the Abbey and Lands of S Benedict of Holme annexed to it The Commodities of this Countie I haue contained in these four Verses Ingenio populi cultu Norfolcia clari est Hinc fluvijs illine Insula clausa mari Qua ratis vellus frumenta cuniculus agnus Lac scatet pisces pabula mella crocus CAMBRIDGE-SHIRE CHAPTER XVIII CAMBRIDGE-SHIRE lyeth bounded vpon the North with Lincolneshire and Northfolke vpon the East with Norfolke and Suffolke vpon the South with Hartford-shire and Essex and vpon the West with Bedford and Huntington shires 2 This Prouince is not large nor for ayre greatly to be liked hauing the Fennes so spread vpon her North that they infect the ayre far into the rest From whose furthest point vnto Royston in the South are thirtie-fiue miles but in the broadest is not fully twentie the whole in Circumference traced by the compasse of her many indents one hundred twentie and eight miles 3 The Soile doth differ both in ayre and commodities the Fenny surcharged with waters the South is Champion and yeeldeth Corne in abundance with Meadowing Pastures vpon both the sides of the Riuer Came which diuides that part of the Shire in the midst vpon whose East-bancks the Muses haue built their most sacred Seat where with plenteous increase they haue continued for these many hundred yeares 4 For from ancient Grantcester Camboritum by Antonine now famous Cambridge the other brest and Nurse-mother of all pious literature haue flowed full steames of the learned Sciences into all other parts of this Land and else-where ancient indeed if their Story be rightly writ that will haue it built by Cantaber a Spaniard three hundred seauenty fiue yeares before the birth of our Sauiour who thither first brought and planted the Muses This Citie Grantcester by the tyranny of time lost both her owne beautie and her professed Athenian Students so that in Bedaes dayes seauen hundred yeares after the Word became flesh it is described to
Brus one of his heires from whose second Sonne Bernard the Familie of Cotton by lineall succession holdeth this Land whereto Glarton the adioyning Parish is now by bountie of a second branch annexed It was in this Shire the head of the honour of Belleine on which 〈…〉 Sibson 〈◊〉 and Vesâ—yes Mannor in Chesterton attended part of it is the freâ—â— Sea 〈◊〉 foure mile 〈◊〉 bredth ouer which when Emma and her Children the issue of Canutiâ— sayled with some perill her Husband in preuention of the like from Bottsey in a strait course to the opposite firme land lined with his Attendant Swords that passage which since hath borne the name of Swords Delph Kings or Canutus dyke This Seignory was granted by the Conquerour to Eustace Earle of Bollein Brother to Lambert Earle of Leins and Father to Godfrey King of Ierusalem reuerting it was giuen to Richard Earle of Cornwall who granted out of it the two Meeres Vbbe Meere and Brich Meere in Fee-Farme to the Church of Ramsey Then after sundry changes it came to Iohn of Gaunt in exchange of the Earledome of Richmond and so by descent fell againe into the Crowne Washingley not farre off from the ancient Lord of that name by Dâ—we and Otter came to the Prices that now posseth it In Chesterton from Wadsheafe by Dennyes there is to the Beuils an ancient name in this Shire a Mannor descended The rest from Aegidius de Merke who gaue there much to Royston Priory passed by Amundeuill to Gloucester and so to Vesey by exchange In Elton the house rich in a beautious Chappell from Denham to Sapcotes and Saultre Beaumes from that surname neere the time of the Conquest by Louth to Cornwallis descended as Bottlebridge by Gimels Drayton Louet vnto Sherley the now Lord. 9 LETTVNESTAN HVNDRED hath that name from Leighton a Towne in the middest of it giuen by Earle Waltheof to the Church of Lincolne which after shared it into two Prebendaries One the Parsonage impropriate which still remaineth the other the Lordships was resumed by Henry the eight and now by the Heire of Darcy matched to the Lord Clifton is become the seate of his Barony This Hundred had in it no house of Religion but Stonley a Priorie of seauen blacke Channons of the order of S. Augustine founded by the Bigrames and at the Suppression valued at 62. l. 12. s 3. d ob It stood within the reach of the great Mannor Kimbolton once an Hundred which was the land of Earle Harold the Vsurper after by Graunt it came with the Chase of Swinesheued to Fitz-Peter from whom by Magnauil to Bohum who in time of the 〈◊〉 Barons built there a Forcelet and so to Stafford by whose attainturre forsaited it was giuen by Henry the eight to the Familie of Wingfield that now possesseth it At Bugden the See of Lincolne hath a seate and was Lord of Spaldwick and the Soke giuen in compensation from the Church of Ely when rent from them it was by the first Henry made a Bishopricke vntill of late that Church gaue vp their interest in Spaldwicke to the Crowne Brampton was giuen by King Iohn at Mirabel to Earle Dauid and by Ada his youngest Daughter fell to Hastings Earle of Pembroke and now is reuerted to the King To the same Earle Dauid by gift of the former King came Alcumesbury and by the bounty of Iohn Scot his sonne to Segraue and so to the Lord Barkley the late possessor To Quincyâ—arle â—arle of Winthester was Keston by Henry the second giuen by whose Heyre generall Ferrars it came to the late Earle of Essex and by exchange to the Crowne 10 TOVLESLAND HVNDRED taketh name likewise of a Towne therein situate In the out Angle of this to the memory of S. Neotus a Monke of Glasterbury but the supposed sonne to 〈◊〉 King of the West-Saxons whose body from 〈◊〉 in Cornwall was transferred to Arnalphesbury then of Arnulphus a holy man now Eynesbury named Earle Alrick and Ethelfleda turned the Palace of Earle Elfred into a Monastery of blacke Monkes which was razed by the Danes but out of the ashes of this Roisia wife to Richard the sonne of Earle Gilbert to God our Lady de Becco and S. Neot as a Cell to the Abbey of Becco in Normandy erected vp of blacke Monkes in the yeare 1113. the late Priorie of S. Nedes suppressed by Henry the eight and valued at 256. l. 15. d q. At Southo the Land of Eustachius the Sheriffe Louetote made the seate of that Seignory on which in this Shire 13. Knights Fees and a halfe depended But from his line by gift of Verdon and Vesey drowned were these in the honour of Gloucester Neare to this at Cretingsbury dwelt Sir Adam de Cretings famous in Edward the thirds warres of France whose Heyre Generall Wanton doth now possesse it Staunton giuen by the first William to Gilbert de Gaunt after the death issuelesse of De Rupes escheated to the King who gaue it to Ioan his sister Queene of Scots She on the Abbey of Tarent bestowed part the rest reuerting being giuen to Segraue descended to the Barons of Berkly Godmanchester or Gormonchester so named of that Dane to whom Aelfred at his conuersion granted some regiment in these parts was the olde land of the Crowne now the Inhabitants in fee farme by grant of King Iohn pro Sexies viginti libris pondere numero It is flat seated by as fruitfull and flowry Meadowes as any this Kingdome yeeldeth and is the most spacious of any one Parish in fertile tillage oft hauing waited on their Soueraigne Lords with ninescore Ploughes in a rurall pompe Some from the name Gunicester which this often beareth in record suppose it the Citie where Machutus placed his Bishops Chayre But for certaine it was that Romane Towne Durosipont of the Bridges named so many hundred yeares vntill the light of our Britainâ— Story ouershone it forgotten Thus as this Citie so the olde Families haue beene here with time outworne few onely of the many former now remaining whose Surnames before the raigne of the last Henry were in this Shire of any eminency But Non indignemur mortalia Nomina solui Cernimus exemplis Oppida posse mort Let 's not repine that Men and names doe dye Since stone-built Cities dead and ruin'd lye RVTLAND-SHIRE CHAPTER XXIX RVTLAND-SHIRE the least of any County in this Realme is circulated vpon the North with Lincolne-shire vpon the East and South by the Riuer Weland is parted from Northampton shire and the West is altogether held in with Leicester-shire 2 The forme thereof is round and no larger in compasse then a light horse-man can easily ride about in a day vpon which occasion some will haue the Shire named of one Rut that so rode But others from the rednesse of the Soile will haue it called Rutland and so the old English-Saxons called it for that Roet and Rut is in their tongue Red with vs and may very well
Shire is drawne indifferently spacious but not very thicke of Inclosures being from East to West in the broadest part not fully 30. miles and from North to South but 24. the whole circumference about 196. miles whose principall Citie is set as the Center almost in the midst from whom the Pole is eleuated 53. degrees and 4 minutes in Latitude and for Longitude 19. degrees 22. minutes 6 From this Towne the Shire hath the name though the name of her selfe is diuersly written as Legecestria Legora Legeo-cester by Ninius Caer-Lerion by Mathew of Westminister if we doe not mistake him Wirall and now lastly Leicester ancient enough if King Leir was her builder eight hundred fortie and foure yeares before the birth of our Sauiour wherein he placed a Flamine to serue in the Temple of Ianus by himselfe there erected and where he was buried if Ieffery ap Arthur say true but now certaine it is that Ethelred the Mercian Monarch made it an Episcopall See in the yeare of Christ Iesus 680. wherein Sexwulph of his election became the first Bishop which shortly after was thence translated and therewith the beautie of the Towne began to decay vpon whose desolations that erectifying Lady Edelsted cast her eyes of compassion and both reedified the buildings and compassed it about with a strong wall where in short time the Cities trade so increased that Matthew Paris in his lesser Story reporteth as followeth Lege-cester saith he is a right wealthy Citie and notably defended and had the wall a sure foundation were inferiour to no Citie whatsoeuer But this pride of prosperitie long lasted not vnder the Normans for it was sore oppressed with a world of calamities when Robert Bossu the Crouch-backe Earle of that Prouince rebelled against his Soueraigne Lord King Henry the second whereof heare the same Author Paris speake Through the obstinate stubbornesse of Earle Robert saith he the noble Citie Leicester was besieged and throwne downe by King Henry and the wall that seemed indissoluble was vtterly raced euen to the ground The peeces of whose fragments so fallen downe remained in his dayes like to hard rockes through the strength of the Morter cementing whole lumpes together and at the Kings command the Citie was set on fire and burnt the Castle raced and a heauit imposition laid vpon the Citizens who with great summes of money bought their owne Banishments but were so vsed in their departure that for extreame feare many of them tooke Sanctuary both at S. Edmunds and S. Albanes In repentance of these mischiefes the Author thereof Earle Robert built the Monastery of S. Mary de Praetis wherein himselfe became a Canon regular and for fifteene yeares continuance in sad laments serued God in continuall prayers With the like deuotion Henry the first Duke of Lancaster built an Hospitall for an hundred and ten poore people with a Collegiate Church a Deane twelue Canons Prebendaries as many Vicars sufficiently prouided for with reuenewes wherein himselfe lyeth buryed and it was the greatest ornament of that Citie vntil the hand of King Henry the 8. lay ouer-heaiue vpon all the like foundations and laid their aspired tops at his owne feete The fortunes of another Crouch-backe King Richard the Vâ—â—â—per were no lesse remarkable in this Citie then the former Robert was both of them in like degree of dishonourable course of life though of disterent issue at their deaths the one dying penitent and of deuout esteeme the other leauing the stench of Tyranny to all following ages who from this Citie setting forth in one day with great pompe and in Battle aray to keepe the Crowne sure vpon his owne Helmet in a sore 〈◊〉 field yeelded both it and his life vnto the head and hands of Henry of Richmond his Conquerour and the next day was brought backe like a Hogge naked and 〈◊〉 and with contempt without teares 〈◊〉 buried in the Gâ—â—y-Fryers of this Citie whose suppression hath suppressed the plot place of his graue and onely the stone-chest wherein he was laid a drinking trough now for horses in a common Inâ—e retaineth the memory of that great Monarchs Funerall and so did a stone in the Church and Chappell of S. Maries inclose the corpse of the proud and pontificall Cardinall Wolsey who had prepared for himselfe as was said a farre more richer Monument 7 Otherplaces worthy of remembrance in this Shire were these In the West where a high Crosse was erected in former times stood the faire Citie Cleycester the Romans BENONNES where their Legions lay and where their two principall wayes crossed each other as the Inhabitants report Loughborrow in the North-verge was as Marianus affirmeth taken from the Britaine 's by Cuthwolfe their King about the yeare of Christ 572. At Redmore neere Bosworth Westward in this Countie the Kingdome of England lay in hazard of one Battle when King Richards Field was fought where the Land at once was freed from a Tyrant and a wicked Vsurper Neither may we passe Lutterworth as the least in account where the famous Iohn Wickliffe Englands Morning-starre dispersed the clouds of all Papisticall darknesse by preaching the Gospell in that his charge and stile of his pen so piercing in power that the man of Sinne euer since hath beene better knowne to the world 8 Religious houses by Princes erected and by them deuoted to God and his seruice the chiefest in this Shire were at Leicester Grace-Dieu Kerby Bellers and at Burton a Spittle for Lazers a disease then newly approched in this Land for the erection whereof a common contribution was gathered thorow the Realme the Patients in this place were not so much deformed in skin as the other were in the defects for the soule whose skirts being turned vp to the sight of the world their sâ—â—mes were discouered and those houses dissolued that had long maintained such Idolatrous sinnes LINCOLN-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXI THe County of Lincolne by the Normans called Nicolshire is consined on the North with Humber on the East with the German Ocean vpon the South is parted from Cambridge and Northampton-shire by the Riuer Nyne and on the West from Nottingham and York-shires by Dun and Trent 2 The length of this Prouince extended from Barton vpon Humber in the North vnto Stanford vpon the Riuer Nyne in the South are miles by our English measure fiftie fiue and the bredth thereof from Newton in the West stretched vnto Wintbory vpon her East Sea containeth thirtie fiue The whole in circumference about one hundred and eightie miles 3 The Ayre vpon the East and South part is both thicke and foggy by reason of the Fennes and vnsolute grounds but therewithall very moderate and pleasing Her graduation being remoued from the Aequator to the degree of 53. and the windes that are sent of her still working Seas doe disperse those vapours from all power of hurt 4 The forme of this County doth somewhat resemble the body of a Lute whose East coasts lye bowe-like into the German
end and in London doing many outrages where in Smithfield he was lastly strucke downe by William Walworth then Maior of the Citie and worthily slaine for his notorious treasons Againe vpon Black-heath Michael Ioseph the Lord Dawbeny with their Cornish Rebels were ouerthrowne by King Henry the seauenth Anno 1497. SVSSEX CHAPTER IIII. SVTH-SEX a word compounded of the sire thâ—reof Southward lyeth stretched along the British Seas The North confronts vpon Surâ—â—y and Kent and the West butteth vpon Haâ—apshire 2 For forme it lyeth long and narrow so that all her Râ—pes doe runne quite through the Shire containeth from Weâ—â—harting in the West to Kent-ditch that diuides it from Kent in the East sixtie foure miles but in the broadest part little aboue twentie the whole in circumference about one hundred fiftie eight miles 3 The ayre is good though somewhat clouded with wists which arise forth of her South bordering Sea who is very prodigall vnto her for Fish and Sea-sowle though as sparing for Harbours or Ships ariuage and those which she hath as vncertaine for continuance as dangerous for entrance 4 Rich is the Soile and yeeldeth greatplentie of all things necessary but very ill for trauellers especially in the winter the Land lying low and the wayes very deepe whose middle tract is garnished with meadowes pastures and Corn-fields the Sea-coast with Hilles which are called the Downs abundantly yeelding both Graint and Grasse and the North side ouershadowed with pleasant Groues and thicke Woods where sometimes stood the famous wood Andradswald containing no lesse then an hundred and twentie miles in length and thirtie in bredth taking the name of Anderida a Citie adioyning both which were wonne from the Britaine 's by Llla the first Saxon King of this Prouince and the place made fatall to Sigebert King of the West-Saxons who being deposed from his Royall Throne was met in this Wood by a Swine-heard and slaine in reuenge of his Lord whom Sigebert had murdered 5 The ancient people in the Romans time were the Regni of whom we haue spoken and who were subdued by Vespasian the Leader of the second Legion vnder Aâ—lus Plautius Liceutenant in Britaine for Claudius the Emperour But after the departure of the Romanes this with Surrey was made the South-Saxons Kingdome yet that giuing place to the West-Saxons as they in time to the Normans it became a Prouince vnder the Conquerours power who gaue to his followers much Land in these parts 6 The place of most account in this Shire is Chichester by the Britaine 's called Caercei a Citie beautifull and large and very well walled about first built by Cissa the second King of the South-Saxons wherein his Royall palace was kept And when King William the First had enacted that Bishops Seas should be translated out of small Townes vnto places of greater resort the Residence of the Bishop vntill then held at Selsey was remoued to this Citie where Bishop Raulfe began a most goodly Cathedrall Church but before it was fully finished by a sudden mischance of fire was quite consumed Yet the same Bishop with the helping liberalitie of King Henry the First began it againe and saw it wholly finished whose beautie and greatnesse her fatall enemy still enuying againe cast downe in the dayes of King Richard the First and by her raging flames consumed the buildings both of it and the Bishops Palace adioyning which Seffrid the second Bishop of that name reedified and built a new And now to augment the honour of this place the Citie hath borne the Title of an Earledome whereof they of Arundell were sometimes so stiled Whose Gradustion for Latitude is remoued from the Equator vnto the degree fiftie fiftie fiue minutes and for Longitude obseruing the same point in the West whence Mercator hath measured are twentie degrees 7 With whom for frequencie bignesse and building the Towne Lewes seemeth to contend where King Athelstan appointed the mintage of his Moneyes and William de Warron built a strong Castle whereunto the disloyall Barons of King Henry the Third in warlike manner resorted and fought a great Battle against their owne Soueraigne and his sonne wherein the King had his Horse slaine vnder him Richard King of the Romans surprised and taken in a Wind-mill and Prince Edward deliuered vnto them vpon vnequall conditions of peace But a greater Battle was fought at Battle when the hazard of England was tryed in one dayes fight and Harold the King gaue place to his Conquerour by losing of his life among sixtie seuen thousand nine hundred seuentie-foure English men besides whose bloud so spilt gaue name to the place in French Sangue lac And the soile naturally after raine becomming of a reddish colour caused William of Newbery vntruely to write That if there fell any small sweet showers in the place where so great a slaughter of the English-men was made presently sweateth forth very fresh bloud out of the earth as if the euidence thereof did plainly declare the vaâ—ce of bloud there shed and cryed still from the earth vnto the Lord. 8 But places of other note in this Shire are these from Basham Earle Harold taking the Sea for his delight in a small Boat was driuen vpon the Coast of Normandie where by Duke William he was retained till he had sworne to make him King after Edward Confessors death which oath being broken the Bastard arriued at Pensey and with his sword reuenged that Periurie at West-Wittering also Ella the Saxon before him had landed for the conquering of those parts and gaue name to the shore from Cimen his son But with greater glory doth Gromebridge raise vp her head where Charles Duke of Orleaunce father to Lewes the twelfth King of France taken prisoner at Agincourt was there a long time detained 9 The commodities of this Prouince are many and diuers both in Corne Cattle Woods Iron and Glasse which two last as they bring great gaine to their possessors so doe they impouerish the Countie of Woods whose want will be found in ages to come if not at this present in some sort felt 10 Great haue beene the deuotions of religious Persons in building and consecrating many houses vnto the vse and onely seruice of Christ whose Beadmen abusing the intents of their Founders hath caused those Foundations to lament their owne ruines for in the tempestuous time of King Henry the Eight eighteene of them in this Countie were blowne downe whose fruit iell into the â—appes of some that neuer meant to restore them againe to the like vse SVRREY CHAPTER V. SVRREY by Beda called Suthri lieth separated vpon the North from the Counties of â—â—â—kingham and Miaâ—lesex by the great Riuer Thaâ—â—sâ—s vpon the East Kent doth inbound it vpon the South is held in with Sussex and Hampshire and her West part is bordered vpon by Hamp-shire and Bark-shire 2 The forme thereof is somewhat square and lieth by Northand by East whereof Redrith and Frensham are the opposites
betwixt whom are extended thirtie-foure miles The broadest part is from Awfold Southward to Thamisis by Stanes and them asunder twentie two the whole in circumference is one hundred and twelue miles 3 The Heauens breathing ayre in this Shire is most sweet and delectable so that for the same cause many royall Palaces of our Princes are therein seated and the Countrey better stored with game then with graine insomuch that this Countie is by some men compared vnto a home-spunne freeze cloth with a costly faire lift for that the out-verge doth exceed the middle itselfe And yet is it wealthy enough both in Corne and Pasturage especially in Hâ—â—esdale and towards the Riuer of Thamisis 4 In this Shire the Regni an ancient people mentioned by Ptolemie were seated whom he brancheth further thorow Sussex and some part of Hamp-shire And in the wane of the Romans gouernment when the Land was left to the will of Inuaders the South-Saxons vnder Ella here erected their Kingdome which with the first was raised and soonest found end From them no doubt the Courtie was named Suth-rey as seated vpon the South of the Riuer and now by contraction is called Surrey 5 And albeit the Countie is barren of Cities or Townes of great estate yet is she stored with many Princely Houses yea and fiue of his Majesties so magnificently built that of some she may well say no Shire hath none such as is None-such indeed And were not Richmond a fatall place of Englands best Princes it might in esteeme be ranked with the richest for therein died the great Conquerour of France King Edward the Third the beautifull Anne daughter to Charles the Fourth Emperour and intirely beloued wife to King Richard the Second the most wise Prince King Henry the Seuenth and the rarest of her Sexe the Mirrour of Princes Queene Elizabeth the worlds loue and Subiects joy 6 At Merton likewise Kenulph King of the West-Saxons came to his vntimely end and at Lambeth the hardre Canute and last of the Danish Kings died among his Cuppes But as these places were fatall for the last breath of these Princes so other in this Countie haue beene graced with the body and beginning of other worthy Monarkes for in Chertsâ—y Abbey King Henry the Sixth who was deposed and made away in the Tower of London was first interred without all funerall pompe but for his holy life was imputed a Saint and lastly translated and intombed at Windsore At Kingston likewise stood the Chaire of Maiestic wherein Athelstan Edwin and Ethelred sate at their Coronation and first receiued their Seepter of Imperiall Power Guildforâ— likewise hath beene farre greater then now it is when the Place of our English-Saxon Kingâ— was therein set And seeing it is the midst of the Shire the Graduation from hence shall be obserued where for Latitude the Pole is raised from the degree 51. 22. scruples and her Longitude from the West in the degree 20. and 2. scruples 7 Neither can we account Okam and Ripley two small Villages the least in this Shire which haue brought forth the well knowne men William de Okam that deepe Philosopher and admirable Scholar and George de Ripley the rung leader of our Alchymists and mysticall impostors both of them borne in this Countie and very neere together But why speake I of these sith a place neerer to sight and greater for fame euen Lambeth is the High Seat of Ecclesiasticall Gouernment Pietie and Learning and Palace of Canterburies Arch-bishops the Metropolitanâ— of England First erected by Archbishop Daldwin and euer since hath beene the residing of all those worthy Prelates of our Church who in a long succession euen from Anno 596 haue continued to him that now most worthily sits at the Churches sterne Richard by Gods prouidence Lord Archbishop of that See a most faithfull and prudent Counsellor vnto King IAMES and a most learned and prouident Guide of our most flourishing Church whose gracious fauour vndeseruedly conferred vpon me hath beene a great encouragement to these my poore endeuours 8 Memorable places for Battles sought before the Conquest were Wembledon where when the fulnesse of prosperitie burst forth into Ciuill Dissensions among the Saxons a bloudy Battle was fought betwixt Cheauâ—in the West-Saxon and young Ethelbert of Kent wherein he was discomfited and two of his principall Leaders slaine about the yeare of Christ 560. and three hundred thirtie three yeares after King Elfred with a small power ouercame the Danes with a great slaughter at Faruham in this Countie which somewhat quelled the courage of his sauage enemy 9 Religious Houses erected in this Shire by the deuotion of Princes and set apart ffom publike vses to Gods Diuine Seruice and their owne Saluation as then was taught the best in account were Sbene Chertsey Merton Newarke Rygate Wauerley Horsleg and in Southwarke Bermundsey and S. Maries These all flourished with increase till the ripeâ—esse of their fruit was so pleasing in sight and taste vnto King HENRY the Eight that in beating the boughes he brake downe body and all ruinating those houses and seazing their rich possessions into his owne hands So jealous is GOD of his honour and so great vengeance followeth the sinne of Idolatrie HANT-SHIRE CHAPTER VI. HANT-SHIRE lying vpon the West of England Is bordered vpon the North by Barkshire vpon the East with Surrey and Sussex vpon the South with the British Seas and I le of Wight and vpon the West with Dorset and Wilt-shires 2 The length thereof from Blackwater in the North vpon Surrey vnto Bascomb in the South vpon the Sea extended in a right line is fiftie foure English miles and the breadth drawne from Peters-field in the East vnto Tidworth in the West and confines of Wilt-shire is little lesse then thirtie miles the whole Circumference about one hundred fiftie and fiue miles 3 The Aire is temperate though somewhat thicke by reason of the Seas and the many Riuers that thorow the Shire doe fall whose plentie of fish and fruitfull increase doe manifoldly redeeme the harmes which they make 4 The Soile is rich for Corne and Cattle pleasant for pasturage and plenteous for woods in a word in all commodities either for Sea or Land blessed and happy 5 Hauens it hath and those commodious both to let in and to loose out Ships of great burthen in trade of Merchandise or other imployments whereof Portsmouth Tichfield Hamble and South-hampton are chiefe besides many other creeks that open their bosomes into those Seas and the Coast strengthned with many strong Castles such as Hurst Calshot South-hampton S. Andrewes Worth Porchester and the South Castle besides other Bulwarkes or Blockhouses that secure the Country and further in the Land as Malwood Winchester and Odiam so strong that in the time of King Iohn thirteene English-men onely defended the Fort for fifteene dayes against Lewis of France that with a great Host assaulted it most hotly 6 Anciently it was possest vpon the North by the
ILAND CHAPTER VII VVIGHT ILAND was in times past named by the Romans Vecta Vectis and Vectesis by the Britaines Guyth and in these dayes vsually called by vs The I le of Wight It belongeth to the Countrie of South-hampton and lyeth out in length ouer against the midst of it South-ward It is encompassed round with the British Seas and seuered from the Maine land that it may seeme to haue beene conjoyned to it and thereof it is thought the Brittish name Guyth hath beene giuen vnto it which betokeneth separation euen as 〈◊〉 being broken off and cut from Italy got the name from Secando which signifieth cutting 2 The forme of this Isle is long and in the middest farre more wide then at eyther end from 〈◊〉 I le in the 〈◊〉 to 〈◊〉 Castle in the West it stretcheth out in length 20. miles and in 〈…〉 Northward to 〈…〉 Southward 12. miles The whole in circumference 〈…〉 3 The ayâ—e is commended both for health and delight whereof the first is witnessed by the 〈◊〉 continuance of the Inhabitants in the state of then bodies before they be decayed and the other for quantitie giues place to no neighbouring Country 4 The ground to say nothing of the Sea which is exceeding full of fish consisteth of soile very fruitfull yet the husbandmans labour deserues to be thankfully remembred by whose paines and industry it doth not onely supply it selfe but affords â—orne to be carryed forth to others The â—and is plenteously stored with Cattle and Graine and breeds euery where store of Conies Hares Patridges and Phesants pleasant for medow pasturage and Parkes so that nothing is wanting that may suffice man The middest yeelds plentie of pasture and forrage for Sheepe whose wooll the Clothiers esteeme the best next vnto that of Leinster and Cotteswold If you cast your eyes towards the North it is all ouer garnished with Meadowes Pastures and Woods If towards the South side it lyeth in a manner wholy bedecked with Cornefields enclosed where at each end the Sea doth so incroachâ—t selfe that it maketh almost two Ilands besides namely Fresh-water Isle which looketh to the West and Bâ—nbridge isle answering it to the East 5 The Commodities of the whole chiefly consist of Cattle Sea fowle Fish and Corne whereof it hath sufficient Woods are not here very plentifull for that it is onely stored with one little Forrest yet the Country of Hamshire for vicinitie of Site is a friendly neighbour in that behalfe so as it were being tyed together in affinitie they are alwayes readie and propense to adde to each others wants and defects by a mutuall supply 6 The ancient Inhabitants of this Iland were the Belga spoken of in the seuerall Prouinces of Sâ—merset-shire Wilt-shire and Hamshire Such as did then possesse it were called Lords of the Isle of wight till it fell into the Kings hands by Râ—ger Sonne to William Fits Osburne slaine in the warre of Flanders that was driuen into exile And Henry the first King of England gaue it vnto Richard Riduers with the see or Inheritance of the Towne of Christs-Church where at in all other places he built certaine Fortrestes 7 The principall Market-Towne in the Isle is Newport called in times past Medena and Novus Burgus de Meden that is the new Burgh of Meden whereof the whole Countrey is diuided into East Meden and West Meden A Towne well seated and much frequented vnto whose Burgesles his Majestie hath lately granted the choyse of a Major who with his Brethren doe gouerne accordingly It is populous with Inhabitants hauing an entrance into the Isle from the Hauen and a passage for Vessels of small burden vnto the Key Not farre from it is the Castle Caresbrooke whose founder is said to haue beene Whitgar the Saxon and from him called White-Garesburgh but now made shorter for easier pronunciation the graduation whereof for Latitude is in the degree 50. 36. minutes and her Longitude in 19. 4. minutes where formerly hath stood a Priory and at Quarre a Nunnery a necessary neighbour to those Penitentiaries And yet in their merry mood the Inhabitants of this Iland doe boast that they were happier then their neighbour Countries for that they neuer had Monke that euer wore hood Lawyers that cauilled nor Foxes that were craftie 8 It is reported that in the yeare of mans saluation 1176. and twentie-three of King Henry the second that in this Iland it rained a showre of bloud which continued for the space of 2 houres together to the great wonder and amazement of the people that beheld it with feare 9 This Isle of Wight is fortified both by Art and Nature for besides the strength of Artificiall Forts and Blocke-houses wherewith it is well furnished it wants not the assistance of naturall Fences as being enriched with a continuall ridge and range of craggy Cliffes and Rockes and Bankes very dangerous for Saylers as the Needles so called by reason of their sharpnesse The Shingles Mixon Brambles c. 10 Vespasian was the first that brought it to the subiection of the Romaenes whilest he serued as a priuate person vnder Claudius Caesar And Cerdic was the first English Saxon that subdued it who granting it vnto Sâ—uffe and Whitgar they joyntly together slew almost all the Brittish Inhabitants being but few of them there remaining in the Towne aforesaid called of his Name Whitgaresburgh Wolpher King of the Merciam reduced this Iland afterwards vnder his obedience and at that time when he became God-father to Edelwalch King of the South-Saxons and answered for him at his Baptisme he assigned it ouer vnto him with the Prouince also of the Menuari But when Edelwalch was slaine and Aruandus the petty King of the Iland was made away Coedwalla King of the West-Saxons annexed it to his Dominion and in a tragicall and lamentable Massacre put to the sword almost euery mothers childe of the in-borne Inhabitants The thing that is best worthy note and obseruation is this That Bishop Wilfrid was the first that instructed the Inhabitants of this Iland in Christian Religion and brought them from Idolatrous Superstition with the which vnto that time they were obscurely blinded DORCESTER-SHIRE CHAPTER VIII DORCESTER from her ancient people DVROTRIGES is most likely to haue receiued that name by the Britaine 's called DVVRGVVEIR lyeth bounded vpon the North-side with Somerset and Wâ—lt-shire vpon the West with Dâ—â—â—shire and some part with Somerset vpon the East altogether with Hampshire and her South part is wholly bounded with the British Seas 2 The forme growes wider from the West and spreads her selfe the broadest in the midst where it extends to twentie-foure miles but in length is no lesse then fortie-foure the whole in Circumference about is one hundred and fiftie miles 3 The ayre is good and of an healthfull constitution the soyle is fat affording many commodities and the Countrey most pleasant in her situation for the In-land is watered with many sweet and fresh running Springs
Emperour and expert Souldiers imployed in euery Prouince Iulius Frontinus subdued these Silures vnto the Romans where continually some of their Legions afterward kept till all was abandoned in Valentinians time 4 The Saxons then made themselues Lords of this Land and this Prouince a part of their Mercians Kingdome yea and Sutton the Court of great Offa their King 5 But Hereford after raised of the ruines of old Ariconium now Kenchester shaken in pieces by a violent Earth quake grew to great fame through a conceiued sanctity by the buriall of Ethelbert King of the East-Angles slaine at Sutton by Offa at what time he came thither to haue espoused to his Daughter whose graue was first made at Marden but afterwards canonized and remoued to this Citie when in honour of him was built the Cathedrall Church by Milfrid a pettie King of that Country which Gruffith Prince of South-Wales and Algar an Englishman rebelling against King Edward Confessor consumed with fire but by Bishop Remesiu was restored at now it is at what time the Towne was walled and is so remaining in good repaire hauing sixe Gates for entrance and fifteen Watch-towers for defence extending in compasse to fifteen hundred paces and whence the North-Pole is obserued to be raised 52. degrees 17. minutes in Latitude and is set from the first point of the West in Longitude 17. degrees and 30. minutes being yearely gouerned by a Maior chosen out of one and thirtie Citizens which are commonly called the Election and he euer after is knowne for an Alderman and clothed in Scarlet whereof foure of the eldest are Iustices of Peace graced with a Sword-bearer a Recorder a Towne-Clerke and foure Sergeants with Mace The greatest glory that this Citie receiued was in King Athelstans dayes where as Malmesbury doth report he caused the Lords of Wales by way of Tribute to pay yearely besides Hawkes and Hounds twenty pound of Gold and three hundred pound of Siluer by waight but how that was performed and continued I finde not 6 Things of rare note in this Shire are said to be Bone well a Spring not farre from Richards Castle wherein are continually found little Fishes bones but not a sinne seene and being wholly cleansed thereof will notwithstanding haue againe the like whether naturally produced or in veynes thither brought no man knoweth 7 But more admirable was the worke of the Omnipotent euen in our owne remembrances and yeare of Christ Iesus 1571. when the Mareley hill in the East of this Shire rouzed it selfe out of a dead sleepe with a roaring noise remoued from the placewhere it stood and for three dayes together trauelled from her first site to the great amazement and feare of the beholders It began to journey vpon the seuenth day of February being Saturday at sixe of the Clocke at night and by seauen in the next morning had gone fortie paces carrying with it Sheepe in their coates hedge-rowes and trees whereof some were ouer-turned and some that stood vpon the plaine are firmely growing vpon the hill those that were East were turned West and those in the West 〈◊〉 set in the East in which remoue it ouerthrew Kâ—â—nasten Chappell and turned two high-wayes 〈◊〉 hundred yards from their vsuall paths formerly trod The ground thus trauelling was aboâ—◠〈…〉 six Acres which opening it selfe with Rockes and all bare the earth before it for foure hundred yards space without any stay leauing that which was Pasturage in place of the Tillage and the Tillage ouerspread with Pasturage Lastly ouerwhelming her lower parts mounted to an hill of twelue fadomes high and there rested her selfe after three dayes trauell remaining his marke that so laid hand vpon this Rocke whose power hath poysed the Hils in his Ballance 8 Religious Houses built by the deuotions of Princes and stored with Votaries and reuenewes for life were in this Shire no lesse then thirteene most sweetly seated in the places as followeth at both the Herefords Barron Ewayot Clifford Moneâ—â—e Acornebury Lemster Linbroke Peterchurch Kilpek Dore and Wiggemore and suspected of hypocrisie were called in question by King Henry the eight and so strictly pursued that some faults were apparant whereby they were laid open to the generall Deluge of the Time whose streame bare downe the walles of all those foundations carrying away the Shrines of the dead and defacing the Libraries of their ancient Records VVORCESTER-SHIRE CHAPTER XXV VVORCESTER-SHIRE is a Countie both rich and populour and lyeth circulated vpon the North with Stafford 〈◊〉 vpon 〈◊〉 East with Warwicke and Oxford-shires vpon the South with Glacester shire and the West by Maluerne Hils is parted from Hereford shire the rest lyeth confronted vpon and in part diuided from Shâ—op-shire by the Riuer Dowles 2 The forme thereof is triangle but not of equall proportion for from North to South are thirtie two miles from South to North-West twenty two and from thence to her North-East point are twenty eight the whole in Circumference is one hundred and twentie miles 3 The Ayre in this Shire is of a fauourable temperature that giues an appetite for labour diet and rest the Soyle is fertile and to me seemed inferiour to notice other in this Land for besides the abundance of Corne in euery place spread the Woods and Pasturage in her hils and plaines sweet Riuers that water the vallies below and Cattle that couer the tops of higher ground the Fields Hedge-rowes and High-wayes are beset with fruitfull Peare-trees that yeeld great pleasure to sight and commodious vse for with their iuyce they make a bastard kinde of Wine called Perry which is both pleasant and good in taste Many Salt Springs also this County affordeth yea and more then are commonly in vse such with the Germans our ancient Predecessors were esteemed most sacred and holy so that as Tacitus writeth to such they wontedly resoted to supplicate their Gods with their deuout prayers as to places neerest the heauens and therefore the sooner to be heard And Poets in their faynings will haue the Nymphs residence in shady greene groues and bankes of sweet Springs if so then as Hellicon this County affords both such are the Forrests of Wâ—re and Feckenham the great woods of Norton and most faire Chase of Maluerne And for waters to witnesse what I say is the Seueraâ— that cuts this Shire in the midst Teme Salwarp and Auon all of them making fruitfull their passage and stored with Fish of most delicious taste 4 The ancient people possessors of this Shire were the CORNAVII inhabitants of Chesse-shire Shrop-shire Stafford and Warwicke-shires subdued by the Romanes in Claudius Caesars time and after their departure made a portion of the Mercian-Saxons Kingdome and in Bedaes time were called the Wicij whereof it may be this Shire had the name vnlesse you will haue it from the Salt-Pits which in old English are named Wiches or from the famous Forrest of Wyre Howsoeuer true it is that the County doth hold the name from her
giue the name to this Prouince seeing the earth doth staine the wooll of her sheepe into a reddish colour Neither is it strange that the staine of the soyle giues names vnto places and that very many for haue we not in Chesse-shire the Red Rocke in Lancashire the Red Banke and in Wales Rutland Castle To speake nothing of that famous Red Sea which shooteth into the Land betwixt Egypt and Arabia which gaue backe her waters for the Israelites to passe on foote all of them named from the colour of the Soile 3 The longest part of this Shire is from Caldecot in the South vpon the Riuer Ey 〈◊〉 to Thistleton a small Village seated in the North not fully twelue miles and from Timwell East-ward to Wissenden in the West her broadest extant is hardly nine the whole circumference about fortie miles 4 The ayre is good both for health and delight subiect to neither extremity of heat nor cold nor is greatly troubled with foggy mists The Soile is rich and for Corne and tillage giues place vnto none Woods there are plentie and many of them imparked hills feeding heards of Neate and flockes of sheepe Vallies besprinkled with many sweet Springs Graine in abundance and Pastures not wanting in a word all things ministred to the content of life with a liberall heart and open hand Onely this is obiected that the Circuit is not great 5 The draught whereof that I may acknowledge my dutie and his right I receiued at the hands of the right Honourable Iohn Lord Harrington Baron of Exton done by himselfe in his yonger yeares Neere vnto his house Burley standeth Okham a faire Market-Towne which Lordship the said Baron enioyeth with a Royaltie somewhat extraordinary which is this If any Noble by birth come within the precinct of the same Lordship he shall forfeit as an homage a shooe from the horse whereon he rideth vnlesse he redeeme it at a price with money In witnesse whereof there are many Horse-shooes nayled vpon the Shire-Hall doore some of large size and ancient fashion others new and of our present Nobilitie whose names are thereupon stamped as followeth Henry Hastings Roger Rutland Edward L. Russell Earle of Bedford Raphe L. Euwer of Parram Henry L. Bertley Henry L. Mordant William L. Compton Edward L. Dudley Henry L. Winsor George Earle of Cumberland Philip Earle of Montgomery L. Willoughby P. L. Wharton The Lord Shandois Besides many others without names That such homage was his due the said Lord himselfe told me and at that instant a suit depended in Law against the Eirle of Lincolne who refused to forfeit the penaltie or to pay his sine 6 Her ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romones and mentioned in Ptolemit were the Coritanâ— and by him branched thorow Leicester Lincolne Nottingham Darby-shire and this who with the Icemans were subdued by P. Ostorius vnder the yoke of Claudius the Roman Emperour and at their departure by conquest the Saxons made it a Prounce vnto their Mercian Kingdome whose fortunes likewise comming to a full period the Normans annexed it vnder their Crowne 7 This Countie King Edward Confessor bequeathed by his Testament vnto Queene Eadgith his wife and after her decease vnto his Monastery at Westminster which William the Conquerour cancelled and made voyd bestowing the Lands vpon others the Tithes and the Church vnto those Monkes That the Ferrers here first seated besides the credit of Writers the Horse-shooe whose badge then it was doth witnesse where in the Castle and now the Shire-hall right ouer the Seat of the Iudge a Horse-shooe of iron curiously wrought containing fiue foot and a halfe in length and the bredth thereto proportionably is fixed The Castle hath beene strong but now is decayed the Church faire and the Towne spacious whose degree of Longitude is 19. 46. scruples and the North poles eleuation in Latitude 53. degrees and 7. minutes 8 Let it not seeme offen siue that I to fill vp this little Shire haue inserted the seate of a Towne not sited in this County for besides the conueniency of place the circuit and beautie but especially it being for a time an Vniuersitie did moue much yea and the first in this Iland if Iohn Hardings Author faile him not that will haue Bladud to bring from Athens certaine Philosophers whom here he seated and made publike profession of the Liberall Sciences where as he saith a great number of Scholars studied the Arts and so continued an Vniuersitie vnto the comming of Augustine at which time the Bishop of Rome interdicted it for certaine Heresies sprung vp among the Britaines and Saxons But most true it is that in the Raigne of King Edward the third vpon debate falling betwixt the Southerne and Northerne Students at Oxford many Schoole-men withdrew themselues hither and a while professed and named a Colledge according to one in Oxford Brasen-nose which retaineth that name vnto this day This was so great a skarre vnto the other that when they were recalled by Proclamation to Oxford it was prouided by Oath that no Student in Oxford should publikely professeor reade the Arts at Stanford to the preiudice of Oxford 9 As this Shire is the least in circuit so is it with the fewest Market-Townes replenished hauing onely two And from Societies that seed vpon the labours of others was this Land the freest for besides Rihall where Tibba the Fâ—lconers Goddesse was worshipped for a Saint when Superstition had well-neere put Gods true honour out of place I finde very few neither with more Castles strengthened then that at Okham whose ruines shew that a Castle hath beene there LEICESTER-SHIRE CHAPTER XXX LEICESTER-SHIRE lying bordered vpon the North with Nottingham-shire vpon the East with Lincolne and Rutland vpon the South with Northampton shire and vpon the West with Watling-street-way is parted from Warwick-shire the rest being bounded with the consines of Darby is a Country Champion abounding in corne but spary of woods especially in the South and East parts which are supplyed with pit-coales plenteously gotten in the North of this Prouince and with abundance of Cattle bred in the hilles beyond the Riuer Wreak which is nothing so well inhabited as the rest 2 The Ayre is gentle milde and temperate and giueth appetite both to labour and rest wholesome it is and draweth mans life to a long age and that much without sicknesse at Carleton onely some defect of pronunciation appeareth in their speech 3 The soile thus consisting the commodities are raised accordingly of Corne Cattle and Coales and in the Rockes neere Beuer are sometimes found the Astroites the Starre-like precious Stone 4 The ancient people that inhabited this Countie were the Coritani who were spread further into other Shires but after that the Romans had left the Land to it selfe this with many more fell to be vnder the possession and gouernment of the Mercians and their Kings from whom the English enioyeth it at this day 5 In Circular-wise almost the compasse of this
Ocean all along pestered with inlets of salt waters and sands which are neither firme nor safe for trauellers as those in the South proued vnto King Iohn who matching North-ward from Northfolke against his disloyall Barons vpon those washes 〈…〉 and carriage by the sodaine returne of the Sea and sofenesse of the sands 5 Her Soile vpon the West and North is abundantly 〈◊〉 pleasant 〈…〉 pasturage areable and meadowing grounds the East and South fenny and 〈…〉 barren but for fowle and fish exceeding any other in the Realme wherein at some times and season of the yeare hath beene taken in nets in August at one draught aboue three thousand Mallards and other Fowles of the like kinde 6 The Shires commodities consist chiefly in Corne Cattle Fish Fowle Flax and Alablaster as also in a Plaister much esteemed of by the Romans for their workes of Imagery and whereof Plinie in his Naturall History maketh mention And the Astroites a precious stone Star-like pointed with fiue beames or rayes anciently esteemed for their vertue in victories vpon the South-west of this County neere Beuer are found not farre thence in our Fathers memory at Harlaxton was ploughed vp a brasen vessell wherein was inclosed a golden Helmet of an ancient fashion set with precious stones which was presented to Kathren of Spaine Wife and Dowager to King Henry the eight 7 This Shire triumpheth in the births of Beauclerke King Henry the first whom Selby brought forth and of King Henry the fourth at Bullingbrooke borne but may as iustly lament for the death of King Iohn herein poysoned by Sâ—non a Monke of Swynsted Abbey and of Queene Eleanor wife to King Edward the first the mirrour of wedlocke and loue to the Commons who at Hardby neere Bullingbrooke his birth place ended her life 8 Trade and commerce for prouision of life is vented thorow thirtie one Market-Townes in this Shire whereof Lincolne the Counties namer is chiefe by Ptolemie and Antonine called Lindum by Beda Linde-collma and by the Normans Nichol. Very ancient it is and hath beene more magnificall as by her many ouerturned ruines doth appeare and farre more populous as by Demesdayes Booke is seene where it is recorded that this Citie contained a thousand and seauen Mansions and nine hundred Burgesses with twelue Lage-men hauing Sac and Soc. And in the Normans time saith Malmesbury it was one of the best peopled Cities of England being a place for trafficke of Merchandize for all commerce by Land or Sea Herein King Edward the third ordained his Staple for the Mart of Wools Leather and Lead and no lesse then fiftie Parish Churches did beautifie the same but now containeth onely fifteene besides the Cathedrall Some ruines yet remaines both of Frieries and Nunneries who lye now buried in their owne ashes and the Citie conquered not by warre but by time and very age and yet hath she not escaped the calamitie of sword as in the time of the Saxons whence Arthur enforced their Host the like also did Edmund to the destroying Danes and by the Normans it suffered some dammage where King Stephen was vanquished and taken prisoner and againe by the third Henry that assaulted and wan it from his rebellious Barons By fire likewise it was fore defaced wherein not onely the buildings were consumed but withall many men and women in the violence thereof perished as also by an Earth-quake her foundation was much weakened and shaken wherein the faire Cathedrall Church dedicated to the Virgin of Virgins was rent in peeces The gouernment of this Citie is committed yearely to a Maior tow Sheriffes twelue Aldermen in Scarlet a Sword a Hat of Estate a Recorder Sword-bearer and foure Sergeants with Maces whose situation on a sleepe hill standeth for Longitude in the degree 20. 10. scruples the Pole eleuated for Latitude from the degree 53. and 50. scruples 9 Much hath beene the deuotion of Princes in building religious houses in this Countie as at Crowland Lincolne Markeby Leyborne Grenfeld Aluingham Newnersby Grymmysby Newsted Elsham Stayâ—feld Syxhyll Torkesey Bryggerd Thorneholme Nuncotton Fosse Heyings Axholme I le Goykewell S. Michaels neere Stamford Swynâ—shead Spalding Kirkested c. 10 Commotions in this Shire were raysed the eight and twentieth of King Henry the Eight where twentie thousand making insurrection violently sware certaine Lords and Gentlemen to their Articles But no sooner they heard of the Kings power comming but that they dispersed themselues and sued for pardon And againe in the third yeare of King Edward the Sixt in case of Inclosuâ—es Lincolne rose in seditious manner as did they of Cornwall Deuon-shire York-shire and Norfolke but after some flaughters of their chiefest men were reduced to former obedience NOTTINGHAM-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXII NOTTINGHAM-SHIRE from Nottingham her chiefest Towne hath the name and that somewhat softned from the Saxons Snoddenzaham for the many Dennes or Caues wrought in her Rocks and vnder ground lyeth bordered vpon the North North west with York-shire vpon the East a good distance by Trent is parted froM and with Lincoln-shire altogether confined the South with Leicester-shire and the West by the Riuer Erwash is seperated from Darby-shire 2 For forme long and Ouall-wise doubling in length twice her bredth whose extreames are thus extended and distance obserued From Finingley North to Sleanford in the South are thirtie eight English miles her West part from Teuersall to Besthorp in the East are little more then nineteene whose circumference draweth much vpon one hundred and ten miles 3 The Ayre is good wholesome and delectable the Soile is rich sandy and clayie as by the names of that Counties diuisions may appeare and surely for Corne and Grasse so fruitfull that it secondeth any other in the Realme and for Water Woods and Canell Coales abundantly stored 4 Therein groweth a Stone softer then Alablaster but being burnt maketh a plaister harder then that of Paris wherewith they flower their vpper roomes for betwixt the Ioysts they lay onely long Bulrushes and thereon spread this Plaister which being throughly dry becomes most solide and hard so that it seemeth rather to be firme stone then mortar and is trod vpon without all danger In the West neere Worksop groweth plentie of Liquorice very delicious and good 5 More South in this Shire at Stoke in the Raigne of King Henry the seauenth a great battle was fought by Iohn De-la-Pole Earle of Lincolne which Richard the Vsurper had declared his heire apparant but Richard losing his life and De-la Pole his hopes in seeking here to set vp a Lambert fell downe himselfe and at Newarke after many troubles King Iohn got his peace with the end of his life 6 Trade and commerce for the Counties prouision is frequented in eight Market-Townes in this Shire whereof Nottingham is both the greatest and best a Towne seated most pleasant and delicate vpon a high hill for buildings stately and number of faire streets surpassing and surmounting many other Cities and for a spacious and most faire
Market-place doth compare with the best Many strange Vaults hewed out of the Rockes in this Towne are seene and those vnder the Castle of an especiall note one for the story of Christs Passion engrauen in the Walls and cut by the hand of Dauid the second King of Scots whilst he was therein detained prisoner Another wherein Lord Mortimer was surprised in the non-age of King Edward the Third euer since beating the name of Mortimers Hole these haue their staires and seuerall roomes made artifically euen out of the Rockes as also in that hill are dwelling houses with winding staires windowes chimneys and roome aboue roome wrought all out of the solide Rocke The Castle is strong and was kept by the Danes against Burthred Ethelred and Elfred the Mercian and West-Saxon Kings who together laid their siege against it and for the further strength of the Towne King Edward surnamed the Elder walled it about whereof some part as yet remaines from the Castle to the West-gate and thence the foundation may be perceiued to the North where in the midst of the way ranging with this banke stands a gate of Stone and the same tract passing along the North part may well be perceiued the rest to the Riuer and thence to the Castle are built vpon and thereby buried from sight whose circuit as I tooke it extendeth two thousand one hundred and twentie pases 7 In the Warres betwixt Stephen and Maud the Empresse by Robert Earle of Glocester these Wells were east downe when also the Towne it selfe suffered the calamitie of fire but recouered to her former estate hath since increased in beautie and wealth and at this day is gouerned by a Maior and sixe Aldermen clad in Scarlet two Sheriffes two Chamberlaines a Towne-clerke and sixe Sergeants with Maces their Attenders whose position hath the Pole eleuated fiftie three degrees 25. minutes in Latitude and hath the Meridian nine degrees and 25. minutes This Towne hath beene honoured by these Princes titles and these Princes dignified with the Earledome of Nottingham whose seuerall Armes and Names are in the great Map expressed Religious houses that haue beene erected and now suppressed in the compasse of this Countie chiefly were Newsted Lenton Shelford Southwell Thurgarton Blith Welbeck and Radford in Nottingham the White and Gray Fryers besides a little Chappell dedicated to Saint Iohn All which shew the deuotions of those former times which their remembrance may moue if not condemne vs that haue more knowledge but farre lesse pietie DARBY-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXIII DARBY-SHIRE lyeth inclosed vpon her North parts with Yorke-shire vpon the East with Nottingham-shire vpon the South with Leicester-shire and vpon the West is parted with the Riuers Doue and Goyt from Stafford and Chesse-shires 2 It is in forme somewhat triangle though not of any equall distance growing from her narrow South-point still wider and in the North is at the broadest for from Stretton neere the head of Mese to New-Chapell seated neere the head of Derwent the two extreames from North to South are thirtie eight miles but from the Shire-Oakes vnto the meeting of Mersey and Goyt the broadest part of all this Shire is not fully twentie nine the whole in circumference extendeth to an hundred and thirtie miles 3 The ayre is good and very healthfull the sile is rich especially in her South and East parts but in the North and West is hilly with a blacke and mossie ground both of them fast handed to the Ploughers paines though very liberall in her other gifts whose natures thus dissenting the Riuer Derwent doth diuide asunder that taketh course thorow the heart or midst of this Countie The ancient people that possessed these parts in the times of the Romans assaults were the Coritani whom Ptolemie disperseth thorow Northampton-shire Leicester Rutland Lincolne Nottingham and this Shire who were all of them subdued by P. Ostorius Scapula Lieutenant in this Prouince for Claudius the Emperour But Romes Empire failing in Britaine by the intestine Warres among themselues the Saxons a more sauage and fearefull Nation soone brought it vnder their subiection and made this a Prouince vnto their Mercians Kingdome whom the West-Saxons first wanne and againe lost to the Normans 5 It is stored with many Commodities and them of much worth for besides Woods and Cattle Sheepe and Corne euery where ouer-spreading the face of this Countie the Mill-stone Crystall and Allablasâ—er the Mines of Pit-coale Iron and Lead are of great price whereof the last is mentioned in Flinie who writeth that in Britaine in the very crust of the ground without any deepe digging is gotten so great store of Lead that there is a Law expresly made of purpose forbidding men to make more then to a certaine stint Whose stones are plenteously gotten in those Mountaines and melted into Sowes to no small profit of the Countrey There is found also in certaine veines of the earth Subium which the Apothecarits call Antimonium and the Alâ—thmists hold in great esteeme 6 Places for commerce or memorable note the first is Darby the Shire-Towne called by the Danes Deâ—aby seated vpon the West banke of Derwent where also a small Brooke rising Westward runneth thorow the Towne vnder nine Bridges before it meets with her farre greater Riuer Derwent which presently it doth after she hath passed Tenant Bridge in the South-East of the Towne But a Bridge of more beautie built all of Free-stone is passed ouer Derwent in the North-East of the Towne whereon standeth a faire stone Chapell and both of them bearing the names of S. Maries fiue other Churches are in this Towne the chiefest whereof is called Aâ—hallowes whose Steeple or Bell-Tower being both beautifull and high was built onely at the charges of young men and maids as is witnessed by the inscription cut in the same vpon euery square of the Steeple Among the miserable desolations of the Danes this Towne bare a part but by Lady Ethelfleda was againe repaired and is at this day inâ—orporated with the yearely gournment of two Bailiffes elect out of twentie-foure brethren besides as many Burgesses of Common Counsell a Recorder Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants with Mace whose Graduation is obserued from the Equator to be 53. degrees 25. scruples and from the first point in the West 19. degrees 2. scruples 7 Little-Chester by the Romish Mony there daily found seemeth to haue beene ancient and that a Colonie of the Roman Souldiers there lay Yet of farre greater fame was Repandunum now Repton where Ethelbald the ninth King of the Mercians and fifteenth Monarch of the Englishmen slaine at Seggeswald by the treason of his Subiects was interred and whence Burthred the last King of that people was expulsed with his Queene Ethelswith by the rage of the Danes after twentie two yeares raigne But with a more pleasing eye we may behold Melborne the memoriall of Englishmens great valour where in that Castle was kept Prisoner Iohn Duke of Burbon taken captiue in the Battle of Agincourt
West hath not obstinately ceased from time to time to flash and mangle it and with his fell irruptions and boysterous Tides to deâ—oure it Another thing there is not vnworthy to be recommended to memory that in this Shire not far from Fournesse Fellâ—s the greatest standing water in all England called Winander-Mere lieth stretched out for the space of ten miles of wonderfull depth and all paued with stone in the bottome and along the Sea-side in many places may be seene heapes of sand vpon which the people powre water vntill it recouer a 〈◊〉 humour which they afterwards boile with Turffes till it become white salt 8 This Country as it is thus on the one side freed by the naturall resistance of the Sea from the force of Inuasions so is it strengthned on the other by many Castles and fortified places that take away the opportunitie of making Roades and Incursions in the Country And as it was with the first that felt the fury of the Saxons crueltie so was it the last and longest that was subdued vnder the West-Saxons Monarchie 9 In this Prouince our noble Arthur who died laden with many trophics of honour is reported by Ninius to haue put the Saxons to flight in a memorable battle neere Duglasse a little Brooke not farre from the Towne of Wiggin But the attempts of warre as they are seuerall so they are vncertaine for they made not Duke Wade happy in his successe but returned him an vnfortunate vnterpriser in the Battle which he gaue to Arduiph King of Northumberland at Billangho in the yeare 798 So were the euents vncertaine in the Ciuill Warres of Yorke and Lancaster for by them was bred and brought forth that bloudy diuision and fatall strife of the Noble Houses that with variable successe to both parties for many yeares together molested the peace and quiet of the Land and defiled the earth with bloud in such violent manner that it exceeded the horrour of those Ciuill Warres in Rome that were betwixt Mariuâ— and Scylla Pompey and Caesar Octauius and Antony or that of the two renowned Houses Valoys and Eurbon that a long time troubled the State of France for in the diuision of these two Princely Families there were thirteene Fields sought and three Kings of England one Prince of Wales twelue Dukes one Marques eighteene Earles one Vicount and three and twentie Barons besides Knights and Gentlemen lost their liues in the same Yet at last by the happy marriage of Henry the seauenth King of England next heire to the House of Lancaster with Elizabeth daughter and heire to Edward the Fourth of the House of Yorke the white and red Roses were conioyned in the happy vniting of those two diuided Families from whence our thrice renowned Soueraigne Lord King Iames by faire sequence and succession doth worthily enioy the Diâ—deme by the benefit of whose happy gouernment this Countie Palatine of Lancaster is prosperous in her Name and Greatnesse YORKE-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXVIII AS the courses and confluents of great Riuers are for the most part fresh in memory though their heads and fountaines lie commonly vnknowne so the latter knowledge of great Regions are not traduced to obliuion though perhaps their first originals be obscure by reason of Antiquitie and the many reuolutions of times and ages In the delineation therefore of this great Prouince of Yorkshire I will not insist vpon the narration of matters neere vnto vs but succinctly run ouer such as are more remote yet neither so sparingly as I may seeme to diminish from the dignitie of so worthy a Country nor so prodigally as to spend time in the superfluous praising of that which neuer any as yet dispraised And although perhaps it may seeme a labour vnnecessary to make relation of ancient remembrances either of the Name or Nature of this Nation especially looking into the difference of Time it selfe which in euery age bringeth forth diuerse effects and the dispositions of men that for the most part take lesse pleasure in them then in divulging the occurrents of their owne times yet I hold it not vnfit to begin there from whence the first certaine direction is giuen to proceede for euen of these ancient things there may be good vse made eitherby imitation or way of comparison as neither the repetition nor the repetition thereof shall be accounted impertinent 2 You shall therefore vnderstand That the Countie of Yorke was in the Saxon tongue called Ebona-yeyne and now commonly Yorkeshire farre greater and more numerous in the Circuit of her miles then any Shire of England Shee is much bound to the singular loue and motherly caâ—â— of Nature in placing her vnder so temperate a clime that in euery measure she is 〈…〉 If one part of her be stony and a sandy barren ground another is fertile and richly adorned with Corne-fields If you here finde it naked and destitute of Woods you shall see it there shadowed with Forrests full of trees that haue very thicke 〈◊〉 sending forth many fruitfull and profitable branches If one place of it be Moorish Mirie and vnpleasant another makes a free tender of delight and presents it selfe to the eye full of beautie and contentiue varietie 3 The Bishopricke of Durham fronts her on the North-side and is seperated by a continued course of the Riuer Tees The Germaine Sea lieth sore vpon her Bast side beating the shores with her boisterous waues and billowes The West part is bounded with Lancashire and Westmerland The South-side hath Cheshire and Darbishire friendly Neighbours vnto her with the which she is first inclosed then with Nottingham and with Lincolne-shires after diuided with that famous Arme of the Sea Humber Into which all the Riuers that water this Country emptie themselues and pay their ordinary Tributes as into the common receptacle and store-house of Neptune for all the watery Pensions of this Prouince 4 This whole Shire being of it selfe so spatious for the more easie and better ordering of her ciuill gouernment is diuided into three parts which according to three quarters of the world are called The West-Riding The East-Riding and The North-Riding West-Riding is for a good space compassed with the Riuer Ouse with the bounds of Lancashire and with the South limits of the Shire and beareth towards the West and South East-Riding bends it selfe to the Ocean with the which and with the Riuer Derment she is inclosed and lookes into that part where the Sunne rising and shewing forth his beames makes the world both glad and glorious in his brightnesse North-Riding extends it selfe Northward 〈◊〉 in as it were with the Riuer Tees and Derwent and a long race of the Riuer Ouse The length of this Shire extended from Haâ—thill in the South to the mouth of Tees in the North are neere vnto seauentie miles the breadth from Flambrough-head to Horn-castle vpon the Riuer 〈◊〉 is fourescore miles the whole Circumference is three hundred and eight miles 5 The Soile of this County for the
is fourescore and two miles 3 The ayre is so cold and sharpe being bordering vpon the 〈◊〉 parts and for her shelter hauing but a wall of water They haue few woods onely they light sometimes vpon so subterranean trees buried vnder the ground by digging vp the earth for a â—lammie kinde of 〈◊〉 which they vse for fuell 4 The soile is reasonable fruitfull both for Cattle Fish and Corne yet it rather commendeth the paines of the people then the goodnesse of the ground for by the industry of the Inhabitants it â—eeldeth sufficiency of euery thing for it selfe and sendeth good store into other Countries It hath fields by good manuring plenteous of Barley and Wheat but especially 〈…〉 and from hence it comes that the people eate most of all Oaten-bread It beares abundance of 〈◊〉 and Flaxe and is full of mightie flockes of sheepe and other Cattell yet are they smaller in body then we haue in England and are much like to the Cattle in Ireland that are neighbouring vpon it 5 This commoditie makes this Iland more happie then we are here for the people are there free from vnnecessary commencements of Suites from long and dilatory Pleas and from friuolous feeing of Lawyers No Iudge or Clerks of the Court take there any penny for drawing Instruments or making of Processes All Controuersies are there determined by certaine Iudges without writings or other charges and them they call Deemsters and chuse forth among themselues If any complaint be made to the Magistrate for wrongs eyther done or suffred he presently taketh vp a stone and fixeth his marke vpon it and so deliuereth it vnto the partie plaintiffe by vertue of which he both cals his aduersary to appearance and to produce his witnesses If the case fall out to be more litigious and of greater consequence then can easily be ended it is then referred to twelue men whom they terme The Keyes of the Iland Another happinesse enricheth this Iland namely the securitie and gouernment thereof as being defended from neighbour enemies by Souldiers that are prest and ready for on the South-side of the I le stands Bala-Curi the Bishops chiefe place of residence and the Pyle and a Block-house standing in a little Iland where there is a coÌ„tinuall Garrison of Souldiers And it is so well managed for matter of rule and ciuill discipline that tuery man there possesseth his owne in peace and safetie No man liues in dread or danger of losing what he hath Men are not there inclined to robbing or theeuing or licentious liuing 6 The Inhabitants of this Iland are for the most part religious and louing to their Pastors to whom they doe much reuerence and respect frequenting daily to diuine Seruice without diuision in the Church or innouation in the Common-weale The wealthier sort and such as hold the fairest possessions doe imitate the people of Lanca-shire both in their honest carriage and good house-keeping Howbeit the common sort of people both in their language and manners come nighest vnto the Irish although they somewhat rellish and fauour of the qualities of the Norwegians 7 Things not worthy to be buryed in the graue of obliuion are that this Iland in the midst thereof riseth vp with hils standing very thicke amongst which the highest is called Sceafull from whence vpon a cleare and faire day a man may easily see three Kingdomes at once that is Scotland England and Ireland This I le prohibits the customary manner ofbegging from doore to doore detesting the disorders as well Ciuill as Ecclesiasticall of neighbour Nations And last not least that deserues to be committed to memory is that the women of this Country wheresoeuer they goe out of their doores gird themselues about with the winding-sheete that they purpose to be buried in to shew themselues mindfull of their mortalitie and such of them as are at any time condemned to dye are sowed within a sacke and flung from a rocke into the Sea 8 The whole Isle is diuided into two parts South and North whereof the one resembleth the Scotish in speech the other the Irish It is defended by two Castles and hath seauenteene Parishes fiue Market-Townes and many Villages A Chronicle of the Kings of MAN CHAPTER XLIIII IT is here very pertinent to the purpose to insert a small History of this Iland that the atchieuements heretofore had may not be vtterly buryed although they are waxen very old and almost torne from remembrance by the teeth of Time It is confessed by all that the Britaine 's held this Iland as they did all Britaine But when the Nations from the North ouerflowed those South parts like violent tempests it became subiect to the Scots Afterwards the Norwegians who did most hurt from the Northerne Sea by their manifold robberies made this Iland and the Hebrides to be their baunt and erected Lords and petry Kings in the same as is expressed in this Chronicle written as is reported by the Monkes of the Abbey of Russin A Chronicle of the Kings of MAN ANno Dom. 1065. Edward of blessed memory King of England departed this life and Harald the Sonne of Godwyn succeeded him in the Kingdome against whom Harald Harfager King of Norway came into the field and fought a Battle at Stainford-bridge but the English obtaining the victory put them all to flight Out of which chase Godred surnamed Crovan the sonne of Harald the blacke of Iseland came vnto Godred the sonne of Syrric who Raigned then in Man and honourably receiued him 2 The same yeare William the Bastard Conquered England and Godred the son of Syrric died his sonne Fingal succeeding him 3 An. 1066. Godred Crovan assembled a great Fleet and came to Man and sought with the people of the Land but receiued the worst and was ouercome The second time renewing his Forces and his Fleet he failed into Man and ioyned Battle with the Manksmen but was vanquished as before and driuen out of the field Howbeit what he could not at first bring to passe with power in those two seuerall onsers he afterward effected by policie For the third time gathering a great multitude together he arriued by night in the hauen called Raâ—sey and hid three hundred men in a Wood which stood vpon the hanging hollow brow of an hill called Sceafull The Sunne being risen the Manksmen put their people in order of Battle and with a violent charge encountred with Godred The fight was hot for a time and stood in a doubtfull suspence till those three hundred men starting out of the Ambush behinde their backes began to foile the Manksmen put them to the worst and forced them to flie Who seeing themselues thus discomfited and finding no place of refuge left them to escape with pitifull lamentation submitted themselues vnto Godred and besought him not to put to the sword such poore remainder of them as was left aliue Godred hauing compassion on their calamities for he had beene nursed for a time and brought vp among
them sounded a retreat and prohibited his Host any longer perfuie He being thus possessed of the I le of Man dyed in the Iland that is called Ile when he had raigned sixteene yeares He left behinde him three sonnes Lagman Harald and Olaue 4 Lagman the eldest taking vpon him the Kingdome raigned seauen yeares His brother Harald rebelled against him a great while but at length was taken prisoner by Lagman who caused his members of generation to be cut off and his eyes to be put out of his head which crueltie this Lagman afterwards repenting gaue ouer the Kingdome of his owne accord and wearing the badge of the Lords Crosse tooke a iourney to Ierusalem in which he dyed 5 An 1075. all the Lords and Nobles of the Iland◠hearing of the death of Lagman dispatched Ambassadours to Murecard O-brien King of Ireland and requested that he would send some worthy and industrious man of the Bloud Royall to be their King till Olaue the sonne of Godred came to full age The King yeelding to their request sent one Dopnald the sonne of Tade and charged him to gouerne the Kingdome which by right belonged to another with lenitie and gentlenesse But after be was come to the Crowne forgetting or not weighing the charge that his Lord and Master had giuen him swayed his place with great tyranny committing many outrages and cruelties and so raigned three yeares till all the Princes of the Ilands agreeing together rose vp against him and made him flie into Ireland 6 An. Dom. 1111. Olaue the sonne of Godred Crouan aforesaid began his raigne and raigned fortie yeares a peaceable Prince He tooke to wife Affrica the daughter of Fergus of Gal-way of whom he begat Godred By his Concubines he had Raignald Lagman and Harald besides many daughters whereof one was married to Summerled Prince of Herergaidel who caused the ruine of the Kings of the Ilands On her he begat foure sonnes Dulgal Raignald Engus and Olaue 7 An. Dom. 1144 Godred the sonne of Olaue was created King of Man and raigned thiritie yeares In the third yeare of his raigne the people of Dublin sent for him and made him their King Which Mure-card King of Ireland maligning raised warre and sent Osibeley his halfe brother by the mothers side with 3000. men at Armes to Dublin who by Godred and the Dublinians was slaine and the rest all put to flight These atchieuements made Godred returned to Man and began to vse tyranny turning the Noblemen out of their inheritances Whereupon one called Thorfin vtters sonne being mightier then the rest came to Summerled and made Dulgal Summerleds sonne King of the Ilands whereof Godred hauing intelligence prepared a Nauie of 80. Shippes to meet Summerled And in the yeare 1156. there was a Battle fought at Sea on Twelfth day at night and many slaine on both sides But the next day they grew to a pacification and diuided the Kingdome of the Ilands among themselues This was the cause of the ouerthrow of the Kingdome of the Iles. 8 Ann 1158. Summerled came to Man with a fleet of fiftie three saile put Godred to flight and wasted the Iland Godred vpon this crossed ouer to Norway for ayde against Summerled But Summerled in the meane time arriuing at Rhinfrin and hauing gathered together fleet of 160 ships couerting to subdue all Scotland by the rust iudgement of God was vanquished by a few and both himselfe and his sonne slaine with an infinite number of people 9 The fourth day after Raignald began to raigne but Godred comming vpon him out of Norway with a great multitude of Armed men tooke his brother Raignald and be rest him both of his eyes and genitall members On the fourth Ides of Nouember An. Dom. 1187. Godred King of the Ilands dyed and his body was translated to the I le of Ely He left behinde him three sonnes Raignald Olaue and Yuar He ordained in his life time that Olaue should succeed him because he onely was borne legitimate But the people of Man seeing him to be scarce ten yeares old sent for Raignald and made him their King I his caused great diuision and many turbulent attempts betweene the two Brethren for the space of thirtie eight yeares which had no end till at a place called Tnigualla there was a battle strucke betweene them wherein Olaue had the victory and Raignald was slaine The Monkes of Russin translated his body vnto the Abbey of S. Mary de Fournes and there interred it in a place which himselfe had chosen for that purpose 10 An. 1230. Olaue and Godred Don who was Raignalds sonne with the Norwegians came to Man and diuided the Kingdome among themselues Olaue held Man and Godred being gone vnto the Ilands was slaine in the I le Lodhus So Olaue obtained the Kingdome of the Isses He dyed the twelfth Calends of Lune Anno 1237. in Saint Patrickes Iland and was buryed in the Abbey of Russin 11 Harrold his sonne succeeded him being foureteene yeares of age and raigned 12 yeares In the yeare 1239. he went vnto the King of Norway who after two yeares confirmed vnto him his heyres and successours vnder his Seale all the Ilands which his predecessours had possessed 12 An. 1242. Harrold returned out of Norway and being by the Inhabitants honourably receiued had peace with the Kings of England and of Scotland The same yeare he was sent for by the King of Norway and married his daughter In the yeare 1249. as he returned homeward with his wife he was drowned in a tempest neere vnto the coasts of Radland 13 An Dom. 1249. Raignald the sonne of Olaue and brother to Harrold began his raigne and on the thirtieth day there of was slaine by one Yuar a Knight in a meadow neere vnto the holy Trinitie Church and lyeth buryed in the Church of S. Mary of Russin 14 In the yeare 1252. Magnus the sonne of Olaue came to Man and was made King The next yeare following he went to the King of Norway and stayed there a yeare 15 In the yeare 1265. Magnus Olaues sonne King of Man and of the Ilands departed this life at the Castle of Russin and was buryed in the Church of S. Mary of Russin 16 In the yeare 1266. the Kingdome of the Ilands was translated by reason of Alexander King of Scots who had gotten into his hands the Westerne Ilands and brought the I le of Man vnder his dominion as one of that number HOLY ILAND CHAPTER XLV THis Iland is called Lindisfarne by the Riuer Lied that is opposite vnto it on the Coast of Northumberland Beda termeth it a Deiny Iland The Britaine name it 〈…〉 for that it twice euery day suffreth an extraordinary inundation and ouer-flowing of the Ocean in manner of an Iland which twice likewise makes it continent to the Land and returning vnto her watrie habitation layes the Shoare bare againe as before It is called in English Holy-Iland for that in ancient times many Monkes haue beene accustomed to
the longest against the Romanes and their necks not brought vnder the yoke of bondage before the dayes of King Edward the first since when they haue attempted to east off their subiection to the English vpon whose stirres raised by Owin Glendouer who hauing beene a fauorite of King Richard the second and discontented by King Henry the fourth in a quarrell with the Lord Grey of Ruthin that intruded vpon his demaines quarrelled with the King and entred into open rebellion and confederacie with all other his rebels drawing the Welsh-men wholly to his side in hope to haue had Princes restored of their owne bloud and he maintained the same with wonderfull pride policie and obstinacie for a long time vntill his consederates followers and fauorates and his owne courage credit and maintenance were brought so low by that powerfull King that in the end he perished for very want of food 5 Their Townes are not many neither those that they haue of any stately buildings whereof Bala â—olgethe and Harlech are the Markeâ—◠〈…〉 in the North-east of this Countie in the Welsh 〈◊〉 in English Piâ—â—â—le-meane a great poole of water doth drowne at least eight score Acres of ground whose 〈…〉 the high land flouds though neuer so great cannot 〈…〉 bigger by their 〈…〉 but if the 〈◊〉 beâ—â—oubled with ouer great blasts and tempests of wiâ—des she in as great a rage riseth and passeth her bankes as if she would encounter that enemy in fight Into the South whereof the two headed Dee with a pretie sharpe streame entreth and thorow the same glideth without any mixture of the same water as the Inhabitants beleeue more strongly conceited in their opinion for that the Salmon vsually taken in Dee is neuer found in that Poole and the fish called Guimad bred in that Meart neuer is seene in the Riuer Dee South thence neere Dolgelhr in a lower hill a great Rampire of stone and compasse is seene and hath beene some fortification or defence in warre which whilst we were curious to finde out some instructions thereof by report this onely we learned that it was called Caddoryrita Dren according to the name of her neighbour and farre higher hill 6 Vpon the West and Sea-shore of this Shire Harlech a Market and Major Towne standeth bleake enough and barren but onely for Fowle and Fish houses not many neither curiously built wherein standeth a little Chappell decayed and without vse in which lyeth buryed Sir Richard Thimblebye an English Knight who for the delight he tooke in that game remoued his abode from a farre better soyle Here also standeth a most strong and beautifull Castle mounted vpon a hill and with a double Bulwarke walled about commanding the Sea and passage of entrance of such as seeke to inuade the Goast And surely a great pitie it is to see so faire a worke fall to decay the Constable whereof by Patent is euer the Major of this Towne neere vnto which are two great Inlets of Seas which at low water may be passed vpon the Sands with Guides Vpon whose shore as vpon the Sea-coasts in this Countie abundance of Herrings are caught for which cause they are much frequented in the season of the yeare by many people from diuers Countries DENBIGH-SHIRE CHAPTER XI DENBIGH-SHIRE called in Welsh Sire Denbigh retyring more from the Sea within the Countrey on this side of the Riuer Conwey shooteth Eastward in one place as farre as to the Riuer Dee on the North first the Sea for a small space and then Plint-shire encompasseth it on the West Caernaruon and Merioneth-shire on the East Cheshire and Shrop-shire and on the South Mountgomery-shire 2 The forme thereof is long growing wider still towards the North-west and narrower towards the East It is in length from East to West one and thirtie miles and in bredth from North to South seauenteene miles in the whole circuit and circumference one hundred and fourteene miles 3 The ayre is very wholesome and pleasant yet bleake enough as exposed to the windes on all sides and the high hilles wherewith it is in many places enuitoned long retaining the congealed snow The tops whereof in the Summer time are the haruest-mens Almanacks by the rising of certaine vapours thereon in the mornings and foreshew a faire day ensuing 4 The soyle is but barren towards the West part yet the middle where it lieth flat in a valley is most fertile The East side when it is once past the valley findeth Nature to be a very sparing niggard of her sauours but next vnto Dee it feeleth a more liberall extent of her blessings The West part is but here and there inhabited and mounteth vp more then the other with bare and hungry hilles yet the leanesse of the soyle where the hils settle any thing flatting hath beene now a good while begun to be ouercome by the diligent paines and carefull industry of the husbandmen for they paring away the vpper coat of the earth into certaine Turffes with a broad kinde of spade pile them vp artificially on heapes and fire them so as being turned into ashes and throwne vpon the ground so pared they fructifie the hungry barrennesse and sterilitie of soyle and make the fields bring forth a kinde of Rie or Anull-corne in such plentie as is hardly to be beleeued 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Countrey were the Ordouices who being also named Ordeâ—ices or Ordoâ—icae a puissant and couragious people by reason they kept wholly in a mountainous place and tooke heart euen of the soyle it selfe for they continued longest free from the yoke both of Roman and also of English dominion They were not subdued by the Romans before the dayes of the Emperor Domitian for then Iulius Agricola conquered almost the whole Nation nor brought vnder the command of the English before the raigne of King Edward the first but liued a long time in a lawlesse kinde of libertie as bearing themselues bold vpon their owne magnanimitie and the strength of the Country 6 The Mountaines of this County yeeld sufficiency of Neat Sheepe and Goats The Vallies in most places are very plenteous of Corne especially Eastward on this side betwixt the Riuers of Alen and Dee but the more Westerly part is heathy and altogether barren The heart of the Shire shewes it selfe beneath the hilles in a beautifull and pleasant Vale reaching seauenteene miles in length from South to North and fiue miles or thereabouts in bredth and lieth open onely toward the Sea It is enuironed on euery side with high hilles amongst which the highest is Moâ—llenlly on the top whereof is a warlike Fense with Trench and Rampier and a little fountaine of cleare water From these hilles the Riuer Cluyd resorts vnto this Vale and from the very spring-head increased with beckes and brookes doth part it in twaine running thorow the midst of it whereof in ancient time it was named Strat Cluyd for Mariamâ—s maketh mention of a King of the Strat Cluyd of
but sendeth out great prouision thereof to others to supply their defects and although the ground may seeme dry and stony or vnpleasant and nothing sightly wherein for the outward qualitie it resembleth some other parts of Wales that are not so fruitfull yet for the inward bounties of nature it is farre vnlike for aboue all the Coasts of Wales it is most plentifull of Wheat insomuch as by Giraldus Cambrensis report they are wont to say in Welsh by way of a Prouerbe Mon Mam Combry which is to say Mon is the mother of Wales for that when other Countries haruest failes round about or their prouision is exhaust and drawne dry this alone like a prouident and full-brested mother is able to sustaine the rest Whereunto Nature most prouidently hath added another benefit seruiceable and necessary to the former in that the Country produceth also those kinde of stones which are called Molâ—res is of all other fittest to make Mill-stones or Grind-stones In some places also it yeeldeth an earth of Aluminoâ—â— qualitie out of which some not long since began to make Alom and Coperose who like vnflesht Souldiers gaue ouer their enterprise without further hope because at first they saw it not answere their ouer-hastie expectations 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ordâ—â—ices mentioned before in the precedent Prouinces of Denbigh-shire Flint-shire and Carnaruon-shire And this very Iland was that ancient and so much enobled seate of the British Druyds who so amated the Army of Romane inuaders as Tacitus reports and as else-where we haue related in the sixt Booke and seauenth Chapter of our ensuing History 6 This Nation was attempted first by Paâ—linus Suetonius in the raigne of Nero but brought vnder the Romane Empire by Iulius Agricola When the Empire of the Romanes in Britaine began to decline and goe downeward some out of Ireland entred into this Isle by stealth and nestled themselues there as may be gathered by certaine mounts of earth entrenched about and yet to be seene which they call the Iâ—â—sh mens Cottages as also by a place named of the Irish-men yn Hieriey Gwidid who did there as is recorded put the Britaines to flight vnder the leading of Sinigus The Norwegians also were often infestuous to this Iland but King Ethelreds Fleet hauing in the yeare 1000. scowred the Seas round about this Isle far exceeded all both Irish and Norwegian depopulations for they wasted the Country in all hostile manner 7 After this two Hughs both Normans did greatly afflict this Iland The one being Earle of Chester the other of Shrewsbury at which very time Magnus the Norwegian arriuing there shot Hugh Earle of Shrewsbury through with an Arrow and departed after he had ransacked the Iland It was afterwards grieuously infested by the Englishmen who neuer gaue ouer from time to time to inuade it vntill in the raigne of King Edward the first it was wholly brought vnder his subiection 8 The principall Towne in this Isle is Beaumarish which the said King Edward the first built in the East side thereof and for the faire situation though in a Morish place gaue it the name which it now beareth whereas in times past it was called Bonouer which he also fortified with a goodly Castle 9 The Maior is the chiefest Magistrate of the Towno who is yearely chosen and hath the assistance and helpe of two Bailiffes two Sergeants at Mace and one Towne-Clerke by whose carefull diligence the affaires of this Towne are orderly managed and commanded whose Latitude is 54. and Longitude 15. 45. minutes 10 Not far from hence is Lhaanuais in times past a faire religious house of the Friars Minors which although it be now in a manner raced out of memory yet antiquitie maketh mention that it hath beene of great regard among the Kings of England who haue shewed themselues very bountifull Patrons vnto that Couent both in respect of the sanctimonious life of such as conuersed there as also because there the bodies of very eminent persons as the daughter of King Iohn the sonne of a King of the Danes as likewise of many great Lords Knights and Squires were enterred that were slaine in the warres against the Welsh in the time of many illustrious Kings of England 11 This Isle is reckoned to haue had anciently many Villages in it euen to the number of three hundred threescore and three and the same euen at this day is very well peopled The diuision of this I le for disposition of affaires that belong either to the state of the Croâ—â—â— or to the condition of the Country is into six Hundreds in which are seated two Market-Townes and seuentie foure Parish-Churches for Gods diuine honour and worship CAERNARVON-SHIRE CHAPTER XIIII CAERNARVON-SHIRE in Welsh Sire Caer-ar-von so called because it is iust ouer against Anglesey which the Britaines call Mon and in composition was termed also Snowden-Forrest before Wales was laid into Shires the North-side whereof and the West butteth vpon the Irish Sea the South-side is inclosed with Merioneth and the East with Denbigh-shires from which it is seuered by the Riuer Conwey 2 The forme thereof is much like a wedge long and narrow toward the South and growing still wider towards the North so that from Penenkel-point South-ward to Orms-head-point Northward are fortie miles from the Riuer Conwey Eastward to the Riuer Llenoy Westward miles twentie and the whole circumference one hundred and ten miles 3 The Aire is sharpe and piercing by reason that the Country hath not naturall prouision to ensconce her selfe against the extremitie of winds and weather but especially as may be thought through the continuance of the Snow on the hils which also exclude the Suns aspect and warmth 4 The soile cannot be much commended for the fertilitie except those parts of the Sea-coasts which lye on the West towards Ireland but for the heart of this Shire it is altogether mountainous as if Nature had a purpose here by rearing vp these craggy hils so thicke together strongly to compact the ioynts of this our Iland and to frame the Inland part thereof for a fit place of refuge to the Britaines against those times of aduersitie which afterward did fall vpon them for no Army though neuer so strongly or scarce any Trauellers though neuer so lightly appointed can finde passage among those so many rough and hard Rockes so many Vales and Pooles here and there crossing all the wayes as ready obstacles to repell any Inroades of forraine aâ—â—ailants These Mountaines may not vnfitly be termed the British Alpes as being the most vaste of all Britaine and for their steepnesse and cragginesse not vnlike to those of Italy all of them towring vp into the Aire and round encompassing one farre higher then all the rest peculiarly called Snowdon-Hill though the other likewise in the same sense are by the Welsh termed Cralg Erâ—ry as much as Snowy Mountaines taking their name as doth by Plinies testimony Niphates in Armenia and