of the Necker which noble River conveys 'em a great deal higher than Stugart as also that they make so good a Return for the Pains that are taken in Transporting 'em so far The Riches of this Country are not divided neither are they to be found any where but at Court and among the Clergy all those that are below this Quality having no share in ' em The same Custom is not observ'd there as in other Places where the Coin circulates through all the parts of the State and enriches the People of all Conditions The Gentry Priests and Monks are wealthy but the Peasants languish under a sordid Poverty so that this Dispensation may be said to be the perfect Idea of that Statue of the Prophet which had the Head of Gold the Body of Silver and the Feet of Clay But the Case is quite different my Lord in your Dominions for the Peasants of Wirtemberg do not stand in need of any thing as enjoying not only whatever is necessary but also that which is convenient even to all those comforts and delights that this World can afford I observ'd nothing like it in Bavaria perhaps because I only saw the worst part of the Country or happen'd to be there in a bad Season The Bavarians appear'd to me to be very stupid and clownish but I do not speak of the Persons of Quality whom their Birth distinguishes and their Education renders polite for the Common People and the rest of the Scum of the Nation only deserve this Character It is almost every where known what course of Life those Women lead who are met with along the Banks of the Danube and how lightly they are esteem'd neither have the Men a greater stock of Merit It was an apposite saying of Homer that Jupiter had taken away Common Sense from Slaves and Beggers for the most part are altogether Sots It seems as if Poverty debas'd their Mind and that their bad Fortune which has left 'em destitute of all things only allowed 'em so much time as to think of Living Thus their Soul becomes the most unprofitable part of themselves and notwithstanding their Rational Faculty they have no more Discretion than brute Beasts But a more subtil Notion comes in my Mind upon this occasion is it not my Lord that the Divine Providence has proportioned Mens Understanding to their Fortune to accustom 'em to that great inequality which wou'd incessantly disturb the order of things in the World if those who are so ill provided for had so much sense as to know how to resent their Misery We observe that all Men endeavour to find delight in their respective Conditions and that this Inclination of every State is the secret Foundation upon which Civil Society is grounded And when by an extraordinary Revolution of which there are frequent Examples we see the Advancement of those of low degree and the fall of great ones it so happens my Lord because the Understanding of the former is enlighten'd and that the others have lost their discerning Faculty and the knowledge of Good and Evil. There is a great deal of Religion among the Bavarians and their Zeal is more especially extended to matters of Controversy But their Neighbours accuse 'em of neglecting the main Points of it to adhere to Triffles they believe that their Religious Worship is vagrant and that Christianity has made a farther Progress among 'em than it ought A certain Puritan who bore no great Affection toward 'em accosted me after this manner Are you French Men more enlighten'd notwithstanding your recourse to the Spring-head All these foreign Means all these pretended Intercessions do not confound you you are of our Humour you are of no Religion and yet cry out for a pure one If you have broken all measures with Rome which no longer holds you but by a small Thread we shall be soon agree'd I confess my Lord that he shew'd me more kindness than I desir'd but without troubling your Highness with the Answer I made him which was very large I shall only insist briefly on the two last Points I told him then That there were in France as many true Christians as in any other Place and that we knew the Distinction which ought to be made between Rome and the Holy See between the Vicar of Jesus Christ and the Temporal Prince between the Successor of St. Peter and the Donatary of Charlemagn between the Pope and the Politician that we readily acknowledg'd his Spiritual Supremacy and that we adher'd thereto not by the means of a String but by a cordial and voluntary Submission by Faith and Grace and that as for our Estates Goods Interests and every thing else that does not relate to matters of Religion they were independant of His Holiness's Dominion who had no other Subjects in the Church than those that belong to his own Territories and Patrimony Perhaps this Discourse may be too tedious upon such an occasion and I shall add no more at present but that 't is requisite to take an opportunity to make mention to your Highness of a notable Divertisement which I saw in your Neighbourhood It is not known in France what is meant by a Sledge nor what the Wirtschaft is neither are the Ladies there accustom'd to run at the Ring I was pleasantly surpris'd to see a Winter A-la-mode or a Winter Travesty as also Frost and Snow apply'd to the use of Gallantry and so many exquisite Beauties display'd in a Plain The Sumptuousness of their Apparel and the the Stateliness of their Deportment represented to my sight as it were so many Deities and Amazons They were most magnificently mounted on Triumphal Chariots and pass d before my Eyes as swift as Lightning I know not whether those flying Machines were so many Ships sailing upon dry Land or Chariots running upon a solid Water They seem'd to me sometimes to be a crowd of Goddesses in Clouds of Gold and Azure that had lately cut the Air and lighted upon the Ground on purpose to enjoy those Delights that the Winter alone which they have not in Heaven is capable of affording ' em The Sports were different some were terminated in the swiftness of the Course and in others there was Honour to be acquir'd because there were Victories to be gained It was a very extraordinary Object to behold a Lady with a Lance in her Hand endu'd with the sprightliness and and fiery Temper of an Hero as also to observe Vigour and Fortitude appearing amidst the Charms of Beauty a Female Warrior running her self into danger wherever there was any prospect of Glory with a precipitate Forwardness that shew'd nothing of that Weakness and Timorousness which is so natural to her Sex Lastly my Lord the Pomp was so great that it was less a Career than a spacious Theatre which reach'd even out of sight having the Divertisements of the Gods for its Scene and the lively Representation of Winter for its Decoration I
driven away from Leyden in the Night There innumerable Curiosities are to be seen in the Anatomical Amphitheatre as well as in the Physick-Garden which well deserve the view of inquisitive Travellers more especially the Skeletons of all sorts of Animals and many natural Rarities which the Bounds of a simple Relation will not permit to be describ'd in particular It is indeed too little barely to make mention of THE HAGVE By the way I have been inform'd that the Merit of the Prince of Orange is there entirely acknowledg'd and that at the same time a kind of secret Distrust is also predominant Hence it appears My Lord that this Prince is worthy to derive his Original from the illustrious Stock of so many Heroes and that those People are no bad Politicians A Man cannot choose but admire DELFT Altho' it were not situated in the Country of beautiful Towns It has also this advantage above the others that 't is the Depositary of the Ashes of the Great William Prince of Orange I have view'd the Tomb in which they are kept and indeed it by its stateliness and variety of Embellishments and Inscriptions one is forc'd to do Justice to his Memory That of Admiral Tromp is likewise erected in the same Place MAESLAND-SLVYS Is Remarkable for its situation at the Mouth of the Rhine It is a very delightful Object to see this Noble River flowing thither with such a mass of Water so that one might avouch that being tir'd with its Course it came on purpose to expatiate and to take rest in this Plain where it loses its form to make a kind of little Sea which assumes the name of the Maes by reason that the adjacent Territory belongs to the District of that River We embarkt at the BRIEL Which stands a little beyond to make our Passage from thence This was one of the Cautionary Towns which were formerly consign'd to Queen Elizabeth when She sent her Forces to the assistance of the Hollanders against Spain We had an opportunity of beholding at our Leisure one of the finest shews in the World For the Dutch Fleet drawn up in the Line of Battel possess'd the whole Passage and altho' we cou'd discern no other Object round about us than that of War yet nothing was so peaceful as our Road. Thus we enjoy'd in safety what can scarce be seen elsewhere without Danger and it seem'd as if good Fortune had peopl'd this spacious Desert on purpose to divert us and to take off the tediousness of our Voyage This vast Element lying in profound tranquillity seem'd as it were to humble it self at the formidable appearance of that Naval Army But 't is not alwaies so gentle My Lord it sometimes resumes its Rage and sports it self with that arrogant Fury driving those huge Machines before it as the Wind does the Dust We were inform'd that this Fleet was fitted out to prevent the Designs that were fear'd on the side of France and without troubling ourselves any farther with State-Affairs we continu'd our course thro' the Thames But I ought to remember that I am directing my Discourse to Your Most Serene Highness who is better vers'd in the Knowledge of the Affairs of Europe and has receiv'd a clearer Information from History alone of the Particulars contain'd in my Letter than myself who have examin'd 'em with the strictest Inquiry that cou'd be made Therefore this Present which I make Your Highness is much less mine than a Recapitulation of Your own Lights which I bring to Your Memory And indeed this is all that can be offer'd to a Prince who is ignorant of nothing and that I durst attempt to produce as a publick Demonstration that I am MY LORD Your Most Serene Higness's Most humble and Most obedient Servant CHARLES PATIN THE FOURTH RELATION To His Most Serene Highness Antony Vlrick Duke of BRUNSWICK and LUNENBURG MY LORD IT is a very great Honour to me that Your Most Serene Highness condescends so far as to be mindful of me and that too with signal marks of Magnificence that my Desires are prevented that I am loaded with Favours and that Your Highness has thought fit to attribute to the single Opinion you have conceiv'd of me what might well serve as a Recompence for an extraordinary Merit and for much more considerable Services I cannot but be surpriz'd at it I confess and not daring to penetrate into the depth of Your Judgment am constrain'd to set a greater value upon myself notwithstanding the vanity of such Thoughts Indeed My Lord 't is to partake of somewhat of that exquisit discerning Faculty to know how to esteem You as I do The Lustre of Grandeur is apt to dazzle common Eyes but does not alwaies cause admiration in those that have been well enlighten'd For neither that Highness of Birth nor that Illustrious Rank which Your Most Serene Highness holds in the Empire is capable of commanding my Attention so many rare Endowments so many Divine Characters imprinted on Your Noble Mind are the only Charms that attract my Eyes And this Prospect My Lord being alwaies fixt upon the most Heroick Points of Antiquity does not cease to have a particular regard to to Your admirable Perfections I cou'd even presume to avouch that I have discern'd in Your Person more excellent Qualities than I have ever read of but I shall not enlarge any farther upon this copious Theme Your Highness is a Lover of Curiosity How fortunate is the Destiny how happy is the Inclination that a Prince shou'd be induc'd to recreate himself so pleasantly and that that interval of Leisure which happens after the Transaction of the most important Affairs of State shou'd refine his Mind and augment its Vigour For these sorts of Studies serve to divert without amusing and to employ without confining alwaies retaining the Animal Spirits in a convenient Elevation without Disturbance and in Activity without any Fatigues Curiosity is the second Employment of Heroes but more especially that of Medals These everlasting Monuments these little Sanctuaries of the Memory of illustrious Personages these sacred Pledges of Vertue and Glory shew us the most beautiful Idea's of Antiquity and discover 'em in their innate simplicity insomuch that they may be seen as they really are in their entire Lustre and Perfection They are properly so many Pieces of Metal animated as it were with a secret Life that does not take its rise from the Work-man but proceeds from I know not what Energy communicated from the incomparable Originals to their Images This is not the Thing it self but the Quintessence of it neither is it a representation of the Man but of the Demi-God What delight is there My Lord in taking an Estimate of Your Qualities from those great Examples which seem as yet to have an influence over their Copies to judge of them by You and to observe in them that which You find in Yourself To discover at first sight that all Ages have had
is the very Source of it so that the rest of the World in this particular Circumstance is only the Copy of which that Country is the true Original I have also this farther Obligation to his Electoral Highness's Favours that he has thought fit to give me a Sight of his Repository of Curiosities and Medals For his Highness sent me word that he was to go a Hunting betimes in the Morning and that he wou'd leave Orders to shew me all things And indeed I receiv'd notice from an Officer of the Houshold of the Day and Hour I was at first introduc'd into the Appartment of the Elector himself and into a Gallery of Paintings which were all of exquisite Beauty In the spaces by which they are separated divers Presses are fixt along the thickness of the Wall where I saw as rich Jewels as any that are extant in the World There is abundance of Precious-stones and some Oriental Pearls besides others of the Country which were taken out of that little River which unloads it self at Passaw into the Danube In these last the different progresses of Nature in the bringing 'em to Perfection is more especially remarkable For some are black which is the Colour of that first Matter that assumes its Solidity Others are grey in which it may be perceiv'd that this Matter begins to grow clear Others again are whitish and others perfectly white I plainly discover'd upon these little Creatures the immediate Workmanship of Heaven which communicated to 'em by degrees that Whiteness and that Astral Lustre Then was shewn to me the Garter which the King of Bohemia lost in the Defeat of Prague where the Devise of the Order is set in Characters of Diamonds I there took a view of the Works of Raphael Vrbin Albert Durer and Lucas Leidensis and particularly admir'd the Draughts of a certain Painter of Augsburg who serv'd the Emperor Rodolph but I was much surpris'd at the Tediousness of his Work there being nothing that comes near it so that it may be affirm'd that none but Germans can be capable of so great Patience I also took delight in viewing the Gold-smith's Ware of Sigismund King of Poland and the Elector Maximilian and an Ivory-Vessel which his Electoral Highness turn'd with his own Hand The most part of the Princes and Noble-men of Germany have some in-sight in the Mechanicks and perhaps from their Example the Grand Signior's Children are instructed therein The same Practice has prevail'd likewise among the Hungarian Gentry even upon a very Politick account for they pretend by this means to have an opportunity of concealing their Quality when they are made Prisoners of War and to avoid a Ransom which wou'd be their ruin But I have insisted too long upon these Particulars when there is occasion to say somewhat concerning the Medals among which my Lord I have seen Wonders A Cabinet of Cedar three Foot high serves only as a covering to another which is much more precious 't is made of Ivory wrought with Figures the Order Design and Work-manship of which exceed every thing that I have seen elsewhere in this kind There are 1400 Gold Medals contain'd in twenty Shelves Their Beauty consists in the continu'd Series of Roman Emperors for as for the Graecian and Consular of which there may be three or four hundred tho' they are exactly counterfeited yet Truth and Antiquity is altogether wanting to ' em I was inform'd that a Jesuit to whose management they were committed cou'd not satisfy the Elector's Curiosity by any means than by causing those that were wanting and cou'd be recover'd to be copy'd in Gold at any expence whatever I confess that these Copies are so accurate that I was even surpris'd at the sight of 'em and that I was oblig'd to spend some time in the discovering of ' em There are two or three hundred admirable Pieces among the Imperial which are capable of charming the Eyes even of the most inquisitive Beholders I expected to have seen those of Silver and Copper but they were not shewn to me The Officer whom I entreated with all possible Civility to give me entire Satisfaction reply'd that he had a Charge to do so but that he knew of no other Medals than those that I had already seen I was also inform'd afterward that they had incurr'd the same Fate with great store of other Riches that were transported out of Germany beyond the Baltick Sea To conclude nothing was wanting to compleat the Delights that I took in the City of Munick But of all the Favours which I receiv'd from the Prince both publickly and in private that of having enjoy'd his Treasures as I thought fit to the sight of which very few Persons are admitted engages me to an acknowledgment which so noble and magnificent Idea's of 'em that are still imprinted upon my Mind will render everlasting Prince Herman ought to have the greatest share in this Discourse He is his Electoral Highness's Favourite and as I have reason to believe his extraordinary Merit has procur'd him this Happiness The Illustrious Name of Furstemberg is also very auspicious for the Goods of Fortune and the most sublime Endowments of the Mind are inseparably annex'd thereto but so many Ages that have honour'd it have done less for its Glory than the three Princes to whom it now belongs One single Place of Europe wou'd not be a Theatre large enough for the exercising of their Princely Vertues therefore Heaven has separated them and without explaining my self any farther for so ample a Subject is not properly that of a Letter their Genius is every where the Source of the Political Function and their admirable Qualities the Ornament of the Court. BAVARIA Is a Country of a large extent and its Climate wou'd render it incomparable were it not that the neighbourhood of the Alps shelters it too much from the South The Plenty which it enjoys of all things requisite for the Sustenance of Humane Life does not hinder but that a Traveller may take notice of the necessity there is of sometimes having recourse to other Countries For he cannot sit down at Table without being put in mind that there is no Wine neither does the Beer which in those Parts perhaps is better than in any other in the World sufficiently supply this defect For this sort of Drink is only at most a liquid Paste which serves to nourish the Belly and Stomach but does not affect the upper Region of the Brain to which the Animal Spirits resort to partake of the Aliments It is not impregnated with those Divine Atoms that inflame the Imagination and drive away Melancholy and even Sorrow it self Indeed the use of Reason may be taken away by drinking this Liquor to excess but without any Delight and the Soul languishes under a heavy Oppression Upon this account it is my Lord that your Territories are so much talkt of and that the People have so great an Esteem for the Wines
know not whether the ancient Romans wou'd have laid out so much expences in the management of their Naumachiae or Sea-fights represented upon Land if they had known the secret of Sailing upon the Snow as the Germans I have no Expressions sublime enough to declare to your Highness what I then thought of the two Princesses of Baden-Durlach They are always extremely beautiful but their Attire on that day their graceful Meen and their Dexterity in performing all the Exploits of the Career transform'd 'em into Heroines The Princess Catharine Barba who was dress'd in the habit of an Aegyptian did me the Honour to ask me how I lik'd her I answer'd bluntly That she appear'd to me more charming than Cleopatra I ought to have added and worthy of somewhat more than Caesar or Antony but I had so much the less presence of Mind as my Eyes were more employ'd in viewing these delectable Objects The Princess her Sister appear'd likewise in the Garb of a Peasant and the Lot which divided these sorts of Characters fell very appositely For the natural plainness and simplicity which she communicated to her Disguise compleated the lively Representation of a Country-Woman in the Person of the most beautiful Princess in the World Insomuch that a certain Stranger who believ'd what he saw in good earnest accosted her after a familiar manner seem'd to be well pleas'd with her Company and after having informed himself of part of what he was desirous to know askt her where the Princess Elizabeth was She reply'd seriously without any change of Countenance that he shou'd see her immediately and that she wou'd not fail to be present at the Ball. Thus the whole Intrigue was pleasantly carry'd on and the good Man made much sport during the Festival without knowing any thing of the matter At my return I took particular notice of a kind of Foppery which afforded me an agreeable Diversion by reason of the relation it had to the manner of the Ancients In Vlm and its Neighbourhood the Women and young Maidens usually wear their Hair platted up backward as it were a Mat which is afterward ty'd with a Riband The very same Fashion prevail'd among 'em two thousand Years ago at least according to the Report of Tacitus Insigne Gentis Suevorum obliquare crinem nodoque substringere It is the peculiar Custom of the Suevi or Inhabitants of Schwaben to wear their Hair curl'd into Tufts and to tye it with a Knot This illustrious Historian makes some other notable Remarks concerning these People which may not be improperly apply'd to those of Wirtemberg It is not known says he in those Parts what is meant by Vsury by which means the People are more free from it than if were prohibited by a Law They do not spare drinking there and they sometimes spend a whole Day and Night without giving any occasion of reproaching 'em upon that account They are very courteous in entertaining Strangers and no Nation can boast of being more addicted to Hospitality The Customs of the Inhabitants are so equitable that they even surpass the wholesome Laws of other People They are less corrupted than in any other Part of the World Nothing is exacted among 'em by Authority so that the most gentle means as that of Perswasion are sufficient for the obtaining of whatever one desires They Adore the Goddess Isis and offer up to her the greatest number of Sacrifices These last Words sufficiently explain the Original of so many Altars and Inscriptions which your Highness has done me the Honour to cause to be shewn to me at Stugart Tacitus who never receiv'd any Benefit from the People of Schwaben has frequently afforded divers little Testimonials in their praise which he cou'd not deny to the Truth of his Descriptions Indeed I lye under an Obligation of making many more as being better acquainted with the Country than he and loaded with a multitude of Favours by its Sovereign Prince But 't is requisite to be Tacitus to be capable of doing it effectually and I am sensible that my Abilities are not sufficient for such an Undertaking I shall leave Your Highness to contemplate upon these noble Idea's wishing that they may inspire you with so much Gayety of Humour as may serve to disperse that melancholy which I fear my unpolish'd and impertinent Discourse has caus'd in your Mind But Sovereign Princes act in a Sphere so far above other Men that they ought not to expect any thing of 'em that is worth their Acceptance or in any wise commensurate to their Grandeur Neither are they wont to despise the smallest Presents that are made to 'em since their Generosity is such as to acknowledge even the first motions of Zeal with which their Subjects are incited either to serve or to divert ' em Upon account of these Considerations it is my Lord that in doing nothing for your Service I hope to get some Advantage for my self and that I presume with so much boldness to assure you that I am and shall be during my whole Life with all manner of profound Respect My Lord Your most Serene Highness's Most humble and most obedient Servant C. PATIN Vivendum moribus antiquis loquendum verbis recentioribus It is requisite to live according to the ancient Manners and to speak with modern Words THE THIRD RELATION TO His most Serene Highness Frederick Marquess of Baden-Durlach c. My Lord FOrasmuch as your most Serene Highness is not tir'd with giving ear to my Discourses and you have graciously condescended so far as to tell me so I am so much the more embolden'd to present to you some others upon Subjects that are altogether new However I have not so much Presumption as to expect that these shou'd be as acceptable to you as the former neither can I pretend to ground 'em upon any thing else but the respectful Obedience which I owe to your Commands Not but that my Lord I might flatter my self with an Assurance of being capable even to offer such Things as wou'd afford some kind of Diversion to your most Serene Highness either upon account of their Novelty or Variety But my Lord how extremely difficult it is for a Person endu'd with so mean Abilities as mine are to entertain a Potent Prince as knowing and judicious as your Highness and to hope for a good issue of such an Entertainment However my Lord you are desirous of it you are pleas'd to command it and I am also sensible that this kind of Prologue is offensive to you Therefore I shall put an end to my Apology and yield a ready Obedience without any farther delays Nothing affords so much delight and satisfaction as Travelling my Lord your most Serene Highness has thought fit to tell me so sometimes and I have ever found it true Indeed the Epitaph of the great Trivulcio might well be objected to me before-hand Hic quiescit qui nunquam quievit Here rests he that never rested It seems
most courteous Gentle-men in the World and I was perswaded that I shou'd have done an injury to the Honourable M. Seidel not to have made this Parenthesis in his favour I know that he is a Lutheran and a zealous Professour of the Reformed Religion but that most inviolable Friendship which has been alwaies between us and the Conformity of our Inclinations wou'd never suffer us to differ tho' never so little about the Diversity of our Opinions The two young Princes My Lord will be one day great Patrons of Curiosity Their tender Age receives its form from that of the Heroes with whom they daily converse and His Electoral Highness himself is a domestick Model from whence they cannot but take very noble Idea's They have already attain'd to the knowledge of divers Languages and are very expert in all sorts of Martial Exercises neither are they less instructed in those Sciences which are capable of cultivating their generous Minds For their several Appartments are rather loaded than adorn'd with Books Geographical Maps Chronological Tables Globes Sphaeres and Medals In short these are the Instruments that work Miracles by innocently maintaining Magnanimity during Prosperity and by supporting it even in Adversity It is a general Maxime among the Prudent to be alwaies prepar'd for all manner of Events as we learn from the Example of Hannibal It is very probable that these Princes may alwaies see Fortune smiling and uncapable of doing 'em any injury but 't is a much more Royal Praerogative to have Vertue for their familiar Friend and Confident The Baron de Swerin principal Minister of State and a great Patron of the Muses has inspir'd 'em with these generous Sentiments and has done a very signal piece of Service to His Electoral Highness in so well managing the Dispositions of these two young Princes and in so happily following the Advice of Aurelius Victor who writes to this effect Compertum est eruditionem elegantiam comitatem praesertim Principibus necessaria esse cùm sine his naturae bona quasi incompta aut etiam horrida despectui sint i. e. It is certain that Learning Curiosity and Courteousness are more especially necessary in Princes in regard that without these Qualities the Endowments of Nature wou'd appear as it were unpolish'd if not altogether rude and deform'd Having left the Marquisate of Brandenburg I enter'd Saxony where the Climate is undoubtedly more temperate and consequently the Soil more fruitful I never saw a finer Garden than that which His Electoral Highness has caus'd to be cultivated in the Suburbs of DRESDEN I there saw the Royal Princess of Denmark marry'd to the Electoral Prince who as they say takes greater Delight in these Walks than in any other Divertisements The Wines of the neighbouring Country are most delicious and the Beer there brewd is as good as in any part of Germany There is also more variety of Game than in any Place in the World which every where causes good cheer and plentiful Entertainments I am very much oblig'd to Doctor Schubart in whose House I lodg'd upon this very account as also for giving me a sight of the most remarkable Curiosities in the City of Dresden I wou'd willingly make no mention of 'em at all because I am sensible that the most part of what I have to say as to these Matters is already known and that I am not capable of expressing my self sufficiently in their commendation This City is very Beautiful Strong and Rich not to add that 't is adorn'd fortify'd and enrich'd more and more every day and I have lately perus'd an advantageous Description of it in a Book that bears the Title of L'Europe Vivante but I am not inclin'd to make Repetitions The Palace contains a World of Wonders a List of which has been printed but they are not all comprehended therein Seven spacious Chambers are fill'd with the richest Jewels that Your Highness can possibly imagine with a prodigious quantity of Vessels of Rock-Chrystal Coral and precious Stones besides curious Paintings drawn by Albert Durer Titian Lucas Leydensis Lucas Cranis Rubens and many other excellent Masters I saw there the Life of the Virgin Mary represented by the first of those Hands which was carv'd in Wood and a large piece of the real Cross upon which our Saviour was crucify'd One may there also observe with much delight the Mechanical Works of divers Princes and 't is admirable My Lord to behold what Art can produce when exercis'd by so noble Hands Therc is perhaps a greater number of Automata than in any other place in the World and those too very large rich and surprizing I shou'd have spent much longer time in the Examination of 'em were it not that my Mind was taken up with the curious Medals which presented themselves to my View M. Beurel to whose care they are committed will e're long applie himself to these kinds of Studies so that I doubt not but that he will find sufficient Employment in delineating a considerable number of rare ones which are there preserv'd and in placing 'em in a more regular Order I cou'd not get a sight of a little Chest of old Gold because 't is kept in the private Closet of His Electoral Highness who was then absent from Dresden and came not thither during the whole time of my abode in the Town but only to lie there one Night This rich Treasure is very highly valu'd and 't is probable that I shou'd have esteem'd it no less if I had had the good fortune of seeing it Indeed 't was no fault of the Barons de Frizen who have there the most honourable Employments as well as the chiefest Merit but as I have already declar'd the Prince's Absence alone depriv'd me of that satisfaction which I might have otherwise had However I determine to return thither once more on purpose and the Delight that I alwaies take in the viewing of Medals is so great as to oblige me to resolve upon this Journey neither have I any regard to the loss of time or Expences whenever I find an opportunity to enrich my Mind with new Discoveries I shall then have seen the Repositories of five Secular Electoral Princes and perhaps none has so great an insight as myself into the admirable Curiosities of this Nature p. 269. It is a very singular Object to behold the Repository of Skeletons for the Founders of it have taken much pains in causing 'em to be made of all sorts of Animals and they are preserv'd with no less care and circumspection which is to procure 'em a kind of Immortality To these are joyn'd many other sorts of Rarities and among others I remember that I have seen a Prodigy It is a real Elephant about a Foot long which is avouch'd to be the Foetus of a Woman Let the Inquisitive seek for the cause of so strange a product in the effects of a depray'd Imagination or in a Crime which 't is much
he seems in a manner to describe the very place Direptus longâ pace in modum municipii extructus locus amaeno salubrium aquarum usu frequens Then also was pillag'd a place that by a long continuance of Peace had grown up as it were to a Town-Corporate and which was much resorted to upon account of the delectable use of wholsome Waters An Inscription of Trajan has been lately found and Medals are daily pickt up in the Neighbourhood some of which I have purchas'd But that which surprizes me most is that a vast quantity of Dice such as are us'd at Games are also met with thereabouts without being able to discover their Original At the distance of four Hours Journey from thence stands the beautiful Town of ZVRICH At one end of the Lake on both sides the River Limat It is suppos'd to have been built by one Thuricus 1900 Years before the Nativity of Jesus Christ which is to advance its Antiquity even above that of Rome but this last City as it were reveng'd the Affront by the Hand of Marius at the defeat of the Cimbrians to whom the Inhabitants of Zurich were united The Statue of Charlemagne who was the Founder of the great Church is still to be seen on one of its Towers with a Crown upon his Head and a Sword in his Hand and I take this Monument to be very remarkable The Canton of Zurich as you well know my Lord holds the first Rank among those of Switzerland being very potent upon account of its Populousness Riches and Extent But I shall leave the particular description of it to Historians in regard that my present Design is only to take notice of Matters relating to Antiquity or Curiosity Will your most Serene Highness vouchsafe to give me leave to relate two pleasant Stories which may serve to give some Indication of the Manners of these People Two Burgundians went on a certain time to buy Horses at Zurich where in discoursing with their Land-lord they gave it out that as the French had already made themselves Masters of the Franche Comtè they might perhaps arrive very suddenly in Switzerland and that they wou'd at least oblige the Inhabitants to tie and untie their Shoes In the mean while a Neighbour being inform'd by the Inn-keeper of the Discourse that happen'd between these Foreigners went to meet 'em with a Sword by his side and demanded of 'em whether that which was reported to him were true Whereupon these poor Wretches were extreamly affrighted yet cou'd not deny what they had so openly declar'd Come hither said the Switzer to one of 'em and untie this Shoe for me which was accordingly done Then continu'd he go forward and bring thy Companion before me As soon as the other drew near he was in like manner oblig'd to submit and to tie the same Shoe again Learn then reply'd the Switzer to both that our Country-men are only induc'd to serve by Friendship and that they 'll cause themselves to be obey'd whenever they are threaten'd The other Story is much of the same Nature A German passing thro' a Village of the Canton of Zurich demanded which was the Road of a young Peasant whom he call'd according to his usual manner of drolling Kyemelker the latter set him in the right way and immediately ran to his Father to acquaint him with the Nick-name which had been impos'd on him by the Traveller The good Old-Man had no sooner heard it but he engages two of his Friends to accompany him overtakes the German and having enjoyn'd him to alight from his Horse compell'd him to Milk a Cow for a considerable time in spite of his Teeth Get thee gone then said he afterward and boast if thou shalt think fit that thou hast been in the Country of Keyemelkers and that thou hast been no less a partaker of the same Employment than they This may be sufficient my Lord to shew the Genius or natural Disposition of the Nation and I have even found an ancient Inscription GENIO PAG. TIGOR If I durst describe it by any other Character than that of Liberty I shou'd undoubtedly mention the Zeal that they have for their Religion The Divines have great Power and Authority among 'em and even sometimes oblige the Magistrates to a more than ordinary severity Notwithstanding the continual noise of the Drums yet the Muses do not cease to have their Parnassus in this Country insomuch that I have there known some very Learned Persons and among others M. Suicerus who alone understands more Greek than all the Natives of Greece and for whom I have a greater Esteem upon account of his Integrity than for his Learning I have been shewn the place in the River where the Ingenious M. Hottinger was unfortunately drown'd with part of his Family He was that famous Professor of the Hebrew Tongue whom the States of Holland sent for to adorn their University of Leyden I am also oblig'd to the Courtesie of his Sons for the sight of some Oriental Medals that remain in their possession The publick Library is as it were a Nursery for Arts and Sciences as containing all sorts of Books and very considerable Manuscripts There are likewise divers Medals and some very rare ones They have been much esteem'd as soon as their use was known and 't is probable that their number will be encreas'd from time to time till at last a very fine Cabinet be made of ' em As for my part I view'd 'em with great delight and was even surpriz'd at the satisfaction which they afforded me I shall not here make mention of any Caresses or Complements which are every where Customary but the Senate was pleas'd to shew their good Will toward me with much more solid Marks which I shall always keep in Mind even during my whole Life One cannot Travel very far in that Country without discovering some rare Monuments of Antiquity and indeed I find many of 'em mention'd by Historians but I cou'd wish they had been describ'd after another manner for Books are now subject to a much more critical Censure than formerly Therefore perhaps I may give encouragement to one of my Friends to undertake the Work whose Abilities I can assure you are sufficient for the performing it with good Success However I shall here observe before-hand some of those Curiosities that have affected my Mind more than the others I took delight in viewing the Castle of Bipp which as 't is reported was built by the Order of King Pepin for the convenience of Hunting There are Bears in those Parts my Lord and at that time the use of Musquets and Fowling-pieces was altogether unknown The People were then apparently more resolute and desperate in their Enterprizes than at present at least they were much more Couragious than I am SOLOTVRN Is one of the most pleasant Countries in Switzerland The Mountains seem to stoop as it were on purpose to give passage to the Waters
and to afford a most delightful prospect with all manner of necessary Conveniences I had there a sight of divers very curious Inscriptions and I copy'd out those that appear'd to me to be the finest But that which is proper for Memoires or Commentaries may be too tedious to be inserted in a Postscript Thus I left Soloturn meditating upon this Epigram In Celtis nihil est Soloduro antiquius unis Exceptis Treviris quorum ego dicta soror Near the Cloister of Frawbrunnen is to be read upon a Cross a notable Historical Memorandum It was erected in a Field where the Inhabitants of Bern defeated a numerous Army of English men A. D. 1375. A certain Lord of _____ in the right of Catharine of Austria his Mother laid claim to divers Territories of Switzerland which had appertain'd to that Illustrious Family But this defeat it seems has quite ruin'd his Pretentions at least there has been no Talk about the Affair since that time I shall here take an occasion to mention to your most Serene Highness a remarkable Circumstance concerning Medals for some were found in the same place A. D. 1628. when two young Boys pursu'd a Serpent even into its hole and as they were poking in the Ground with their Sticks discover'd an Earthen Pot fill'd with fifteen hundred Silver-Medals which were for the most part those of Severus Julia and Caracalla Can you imagine my Lord that this Serpent was metamorphos'd into Medals or that the little Animal shew'd his Persecutors this means of enriching themselves As for my part I can believe neither but I know that the Serpent is generally esteem'd as a good Omen The Nicomedians luckily met with 'em in laying the Foundation of their City The Romans were indebted to one for the cure of their Plague The Israelites were in like manner heal'd by looking upon a Brazen Serpent and perhaps one may put an end to my Mis-adventures Feliciter To return to the Medals they are found almost in all parts of that Country and some Years ago a great quantity of 'em was discover'd together with divers Sepulchres Lamps and Urns. The Inhabitants are also now inclin'd to set a Value upon 'em among whom M. Morel in particular has already procur'd a considerable Cabinet and altho' his Curiosity began at first only with a small Medal of Maximinus which he had accidentally obtain'd yet I can assure your Highness that he has since made a great progress therein and has some very rare Pieces in his possession He has likewise made a Collection of the finest Prints of Italy France and Germany insomuch that I have met with very few Persons who are addicted more to Curiosity than he neither is his Judgment and Skill in these Matters less profound and as a recompence for his Pains and Trouble I am certain that this kind of Study affords to him as well as to me a great deal of Delight and Satisfaction A Man need only take a prospect of BERN. To form in his Mind a suitable Idea of its Power and Wealth It was Founded by a Duke of Zeringhen A. D. 1191. to oppose certain petty Lords of the Country whose Territories are now escheated to this Canton neither wou'd the Town any longer acknowledge the Authority of their Duke Berthold It is entirely built with Free-Stone and every where adorn'd with Portico's Arches and Pillars so that a Passenger may walk thro' all the Streets at any time under shelter secure both from the Storms of Wind and Rain and the excessive heat of the Sun Thus the Houses seem to be only the Appartments of so many Kings and indeed every Burgher is actually a Prince in his own Family The Church Arsenal and Publick Library are stately Edifices and deserve well to be view'd by Ingenious Travellers Some of the Inhabitants caus'd me to take particular notice of a place in the highest Wall that ever I saw being that which supports the Platform of the Church from whence a certain Student fell down headlong on Horseback without receiving any manner of hurt Curtius himself never fell from so steep a Precipice altho' his Fall procur'd him immortal Fame but who wou'd be willing to purchase it at so dear a rate for my part I know none The Student of whom I now make mention is still living my Lord and is not this a strange Prodigy Except in the Libraries of the Emperour and the King I never saw a greater number of Manuscripts than those which are kept in that of Bern all those of M. Bongars are likewise preserv'd there and I have been so fortunate as to get a Catalogue of ' em I am altogether unwilling to let slip any opportunity that may in the least tend to the advantage of the Republick of Learning MORAT Is situated at the distance only of five Hours Journey from Bern being a very noted tho' small Town which has imparted everlasting Renown to the Inhabitants of the Country who have caus'd a Chappel to be erected on the side of the Lake which serves as a Sepulchre to twenty Thousand Burgundians that had made an attempt upon their Liberty This Charnel-House is adorn'd with the following Inscription INVICTISSIMI ATQUE FORTISSIMI CAROLI DUCIS BURGUNDIAE EXERCITUS MURATUM OBSIDENS CONTRA HELVETIOS PUGNANS HIC SUI MONIMENTUM RELIQUIT ANNO M. CCCC.LXXVI The Army of the most Invincible and most Valiant Charles Duke of Burgundy that Besieg'd Morat and fought against the Switzers has here left its Monument It is scarce possible to pass by that Place without making some notable Reflections The Switzers there call to Mind the greatest danger to which their Liberty was ever expos'd and even those who have no interest in either Party cannot forbear taking some delight were it meerly out of the veneration they have for History There are to be seen at one prospect the Town which was Besieg'd the Ground-plot of the three Camps that were pitch'd before it the place thro' which the Switzers pass'd to force the Burgundians the Field of Battel and the passage of the Flight How many Valiant Hero's perish'd in that Engagement What a prodigious Mass of Riches was transmitted from the Camp of the Vanquish'd Forces to that of the Victorious This in my Mind is an ample Theme for Meditation but too copious to be describ'd here AVENCHES or WIFLISPURG Situated at the distance of two Hours Journey from thence is the remainder of that noted Roman Colony of which so great a number of Inscriptions are as yet extant It is generally believ'd that Vespasian's Father liv'd there for some time and Suetonius declares that Faenus apud Helvetios exercuerat He follow'd the Trade of Vsury in Switzerland but he does not name the Town I find it express'd upon a Medal of Domitian cited by Goltzius COLOnia JULIA AVENTICORum neither is the modern Name of this Town in French any thing else but a Translation of the ancient for Avenches apparently proceeds from
M. Vander Gucht scu Effigies CAROLI PATIN Med Doct Parisiens The TRAVELLS of C. PATIN M.D. TRAVELS THRO' Germany Bohemia Swisserland Holland And other Parts of EUROPE Describing the most Considerable CITYS AND THE Palaces of Princes TOGETHER With Historical Relations and Critical Observations upon Ancient Medals and Inscriptions By CHARLES PATIN M.D. of the Faculty of Paris Made English and Illustrated with Copper Cuts and a Map LONDON Printed for A. Swall and T. Child at the Vnicorn in St. Pauls Church-yard 1696. TABLE of the Cities and Provinces Passed through in these Travels ALtorf Describ'd Page 239 Amsterdam 20â— Anspach 228 Avanches 323 Augsbourg 69 Augst 134 Austria 34â— BAccharac 185 Baden 308 Basil 133 Bareith 24â— Bavaria 113 Berlin 243 Berne 315 Bohemia 40 27â— The Briel 21â— Brisac 16â— CAstle of Amras 7â— Castle of Bipp 31â— Constance 29â— DElft 20â— Durlach 17â— Dresden 26â— EMmerick 18â— GEneva 33â— HArlem 20â— The Hague 20â— Heidelberg 17â— Horchst 18â— Hoentwiel 3â—â— Hongary 3â— JEna 2â—â— Inspruck 79 2â—â— KOnigsfelden 306 LEyden 207 Leipzyck 246 Leopolstadt Maeslandsluys 209 Manheim 174 Mentz 181 Morat 321 Munick 97 NIeustat 226 Nimeguen 189 Nuremberg 228 PAssaw 42 Payern 328 Phillipsbourg 170 Prague 273 SAltzbourg 282 Scaffhausen 299 Schencken Schans 188 Soloturn 316 Stutgarde 225 Swaben 220 TYrol 76 Tubingen 223 VIenna 3 Vlme 65 Vytrecht 193 WEimar 244 Windisch 307 Wittemburg 221 Wiitemberg 249 ZVrich 319 THE FIRST RELATION OF THE TRAVELS of the Sieur Patin To His Highness Friderick Augustus Duke of Wirtemburg c. YOUR Highness has often conferr'd many signal Favours upon me but nâ—â—â—ing can be more obliging erâ—n the manner doing it For in requiring an Acâ—â—unt of my last Travels you have not â—â—ly declin'd to make use of the absoâ—â—te Authority your Highness has over â—â—y Person but have even condescended so far as to lay a pleasing Violence upon me in these most pathetical and affectionate Terms I was taking a review of a Troop of Horse when your Letter was deliver'd to me but having perceiv'd your Hand which I very much esteem I cou'd not forbear opening it c. Are not these so many secret Charms that supersede my Temerity and which inspire me with Zeal to yield a ready Obedience to all your Injunctions I am unwilling to call to mind that there is nothing more difficult than to give Satisfaction to so discerning a Judgment as that of your Highness that is to say the Judgment of so noble and sagacious a Person which has already penetrated into the inmost Recesses of Humane Literature and has been form'd under the Tuition of the Learned Monsieuâ— â—offel What a copious Theme lies before me What a natural Propensity I have in directing my Discourse to you my Lord to speak of nothing but your Highness But I have a greater Veneration for so noble a Subject which requires Talents and Expressions commensurate to its Grandeur than to attempt such an Undertaking at all adventures I must of necessity forget your Highness for a Moment to call to mind that 't is my Duty to obey your Orders From Niewstadt where your Highness was pleas'd to load me with all manner of Favours I set forward to Vienna the distance to which is great the course of the Danube making ninety German Leagues within the space of five days It is very delightful to imbark on this River where a Man may sail a great way without seeming to stir and may change Countries and Provinces without any apparent change of Places in short he may there find means to perform as he Travels whatsoever can be done by him at home VIENNA Is the Capital City of Germany or rather of the whole Western Continent for there at present is to be seen the Majesty of the Empire as formerly at Rome which can be no longer said to be the Metropolis of the World since the other is now become the usual place of Residence of the Emperors It may be esteem'd strong not only by reason that it is defended with Bastions and regular Out-works but also because Solyman sirnam'd the Magnificent once besieg'd but was not able to take it For this Grand Seignior was not accustom'd to be foil'd neither indeed was he ever overcome the same Ottoman Emperor among his Titles assum'd the Style of doing whatsoever he thought fit and of doing nothing that he dislik'd Your Highness has in your Repository some notable Monuments of this famous Siege in certain Gold and Silver Medals with this Inscription TVRK BLEGERT WIEN 1529. This City is large within its small compass May your Highness not be surpris'd at this manner of Expression I mean that within the small extent of Ground in which it is enclos'd upon account of its Fortifications it is extremely Populous extremely Rich and very well supply'd with all things necessary for the convenience of Humane Life I might also add that this City has little wast Ground in it and is not irregularly built that the largest Cities of Europe have a greater quantity of wast Ground or are more irregular than this The two Musaeum's or Repositories which I saw there are none of its least Ornaments one of these was brought from Brussels and owes its original to the Arch-Duke Leopold who furnish'd it with a vast number of Curiosities at an incredible Expence The other is a Patrimony of the Imperial Family and a Collection made as they say by four Emperors In the former are contain'd fifteen hundred Paintings drawn by the most able Masters of that Art among which I have observed some of Raphael D' Vrbin Titian Caraccio Paul Veronese Corregio Palma Holbein Georgeon Schiavone Bassano Albert Durer Rubens Van Dyck c. There are also engrav'd Prints of the best Pieces of this Inestimable Collection indeed the Project was well contriv'd and the Reputation of Tenieres who is the Graver wou'd have been much more considerable if he had taken care to put his design in Execution with greater success But these sorry Copies serve only to disguise the Originals and to disfigure the finest Draughts in the World so that the defects of the Artist and not the excellency of those admirable Master-pieces are apparent There are in the same Repository almost three hundred ancient Statues of Marble and Brass besides a Collection of eight hundred Golden Medals all different and more remarkable for their Rarity and the design of the History than for the value of the Matter of which they are made This vast Collection of Greek Consular and Imperial Medals and others of large and middle-siz'd Copper cou'd not be gathered together but by the hand of a Prince as Potent and Judicious as he that left it I have an exact Catalogue of 'em and your Highness will be surpris'd to observe so many Rarities therein I must not omit by any means one Article of which a Person as curious as your Highness ought to be inform'd It is one of the finest Discoveries that has
these Repositories to whose Custody they are both committed Although I shou'd declare that his Merit is extraordinary that he is a good Clergy-man and a profound Scholar and a most accomplish'd Person and that he enjoys all those excellent Qualities with the Favour of his Master which are things very incompatible I shou'd not be judg'd guilty of Flattery since every one gives the same Character of him His Imperial Majesty commanded that the other shou'd be shewn to me and I was not capable of receiving a greater Honour nor of bringing a more agreeable Disposition to the sight of so many rare Curiosities The Imperial Library may be reckon'd as the third Treasure it is full of the finest Books in the World and among others there are ten or twelve thousand Manuscripts of all sorts of Subjects and in all Languages as also the famous Libraries of Busbequius and Cuspinian and the rare Collection of the Fuggers of Augsburg I saw certain admirable Miniatures which sometime belong'd to the Dukes of Burgundy I saw also Octavius Strada's fine Collection of Medals with a vast number of the Designs of Raphael D'Vrbin Albert Durer and other excellent Masters of the Art of Painting A particular Account of these Curiosities will be suddenly publish'd and â—he compleat History of 'em is expeâ—ted from Monsieur Lambecius to whose custody they are committed and who is constantly employ'd in the Work as being perhaps the only Person in the World that is capable of taking exact Copies from those incomparable Originals where your Highness may find these first rude Draughts that I have made in their full Lustre and Perfection Wou'd it not be too hard a Task my Lord to discourse to you concerning his Imperial Majesty with such mean Conceptions as mine Cou'd they form any tolerable Idea or represent a Character in any wise suitable to so great an Hero I had indeed the Honour to be in his Majesty's Presence in his Gallery of Paintings when he was visiting his Treasure of ancient Medals There I had an opportunity to see during three hours and a half a Roman Emperor conversing with his Predecessors which cou'd not be observ'd elsewhere There a more discerning and sublime Judgment than mine might have made a Comparison between 'em on the very spot In my opinion the Lustre of the deceas'd Princes did not seem to eclipse that of the living Emperor in whose Person I saw concenter'd all that I knew and every thing that I had read concerning others His profound Judgment his exemplary Piety Justice and Clemency are conspicuous in so high a degree of Perfection that a faint Idea of 'em is only to be seen in the World Your Highness is sensible that extraordinary Virtues are often incompatible and that that Soul which is so happy as to possess 'em all does not always find an equal supply for all during its Intercourse with the Body from whence it cannot pass Thus we rarely observe Magnanimity and Fortitude intermix'd with that Gentleness and Moderation which are requisite for the compleat Formation of Piety and Clemency in the Heart of a Prince But in his Imperial Majesty all these Heroick Qualities which are so much admir'd proceed from a more noble Principle that enforces Nature and administers Relief to the Weaknesses of the Body This is that Divine Character which Heaven imprints on the Minds of all those of this August Family This is that second Soul which the Philosophers have attributed to Hero's which is the cause that he who is at present advanc'd to the highest degree of Dignity on Earth is at the same time a potent Emperor a virtuous Prince an accomplish'd Politician and a good Christian and hath all sociable Virtues united in his Person in a perfect Agreement which will constitute the Happiness of the Empire as soon as it shall be in a condition to answer thereto and shall have merited of Heaven so many Blessings which it may receive from his Hands and under the Government of so excellent a Sovereign and so prudent an Emperor It is true my Lord that he is even ador'd by his own Subjects for indeed the Respect and Affection that they bear to his Person is altogether boundless The Court of Vienna is very Magnificent and Splendid but that which in my opinion adds to its Lustre is that the Prince is every where imitated that is to say in his Piety Generosity Courteousness and Affability I know not by what means his Imperial Majesty is more especially become a publick Blessing to so many Illustrious Lords that depend on him whether by the Riches or Preferments he bestows on 'em or by the singular Example he shews ' em However I shall give an account to your Highness of some of their Persons and Qualities such as most readily occur to my Memory The Prince of Lobkowitz who is Comptroller of the Houshold Der Oberste Hoffmeister has the first Station in the Court his Father being High Chancellor of Bohemia was created a Prince by Ferdinand II. A.D. 1626 but he cou'd not enjoy the Privileges of this Dignity in the Diet of Ratisbone and his Son was admitted thereto by the Interest he had with the Emperor and by the Exigency of Affairs Count John Maximilian of Lamberg is High Chamberlain and the principal Confident of his Imperial Majesty He has a share in the transacting of all Publick Affairs and he is acknowledg'd by the common Consent of the People to be a Person that perfectly answers so great a Character for he is endu'd with a sagacious Judgment and a vigorous Disposition join'd with Learning and Experience Indeed his Embassies in Spain and to the Assembly of Munster have made him known throughout the whole Continent of Europe In short he is belov'd and esteem'd by the Emperor even to the highest degree and all Men are so well perswaded of his Merit that none envies him the happiness of his Station Henry William Count of Staremberg is the Great Marshal your Highness is sensible of the extraordinary Power that belongs to this Office in all the Courts of Germany He has an absolute Authority over the Jews and it may not be improper here to relate some particular Circumstances concerning this sort of People There are in Vienna about three thousand of 'em lodg'd in very convenient Appartments in a Burgh that bears their Name distant about two or three hundred Paces from the City which they may enter whenever they think fit except on Saturdays and Sundays being prohibited on those days by virtue of their Superstition and the Christian Religion but if they shou'd act otherwise than according to this Order they wou'd run the hazard of being cut in pieces Limnaeus propounds whether it be expedient for a Prince to tolerate 'em in his Dominions and produces the affirmative and negative Arguments but I shall not at present engage in the Debate They have three Synagogues in Vienna though at Francfurt they are allow'd but
one and are there more numerous I was told one day a Story in the same place which seem'd to me very pleasant A certain German disputed in Latin with a Jewish Physician and press'd him to acknowledge the coming of the Messias citing some Passages which he shew'd in Hebrew in the Prophecies and other Places of the Old Testament insomuch that the Doctor who cou'd not find sufficient Proofs to maintain his Argument told him at last Will not you grant that our Religion was given us by the true God Creator of Heaven and Earth and that he made a Covenant with us The German readily acknowledg'd it then reply'd the Jew When you can demonstrate to me that your Religion proceeds from God by as good Testimonies as we prove ours all will be well The German upon this occasion was endu'd with more Zeal than Discretion For my Lord what answer wou'd the Jew have made if any Man had reply'd to him This Religion was given you as a Preparative for the accomplishment of the Promises and this Covenant as a Type or Figure of the true one to be afterward made by the Messias Now if the Promises are apparently accomplish'd and if the Messias be already come your Religion and your Covenant or Dispensation are terminated Therefore according to the Rules of an equitable Argumentation it is not sufficient for you to prove the Continuation of your Religion and your Covenant by the Settlement which God made with your Ancestors but it lies upon you to prove it by a Negative that is to say by shewing in the Holy Scriptures which are common to us that the Messias who ought to consummate all things is not as yet come Indeed their Misfortune is very great in regard that 't is grounded upon the Word of God The Jews are extremely obstinate in their Opinions and very Superstitious yet they are miserable and every where laden with the Publick Hatred I have had some concern with 'em but none relating either to Religion or State Affairs and have purchas'd of 'em divers extraordinary ancient Medals they are easily wrought upon because Ignorant otherwise they are well skill d in Arithmetick The Counts of Dietrichstein and Zinzendorf are also principal Officers in the Emperor's Court the former is the Gentleman of the Horse and the other the Great Huntsman both most worthy of their Master's Favour The Count of Trauthson is one of the most considerable Lords of this Court He is a very ingenious Person and has in his Repository all manner of Curiosities viz. Books ancient and modern Medals Paintings Agates Marchasites Indian Rarities and in short every thing that can be imagin'd Notwithstanding the little time I spent in viewing all the particular things contain'd in this Musaeum the Description of 'em wou'd afford too much matter for a Letter Here was to be seen that famous Painting of Corregio which was the most precious Spoil of the Sacking of Mantua His most Christian Majesty who well knew its beauty thought fit to afford it a place in the Louvre and I was also desirous to see it there Another very remarkable Curiosity is a Cherry-stone on which are engrav'd above an hundred Portraitures with different Ornaments of the Head viz. Crowns Diadems Mitres Cowls Hats Hoods and Commodes for Women of various sorts This is to bring Art to it s heighest pitch of Perfection to comprehend such variety of Works within so small a space and even in a manner to proceed as far as Nature it self which animates Atoms and gives 'em organical Parts I shall also make mention to your Highness of an Amethyste Cup that I saw there it seems to be as fine as those fabulous Cups with which the Gods were wont to Carowse and indeed if the Fable cou'd impose on our Eyes as well as Mind one wou'd be apt to believe it This Lord has the stateliest Palace and the most spacious Garden in all Austria which is altogether extended in length or at least very near from the very City Gates of Vienna to the Danube His Grand-Father was the Favourite of Rodolph II. and I am of opinion that the Curiosity of this great Emperor excited that of his Confident If your Highness requir'd an Account of the other illustrious and ingenious Persons of Vienna you wou'd engage me to make mention of too many neither do I know all But I cannot forget Monsieur Schrimpf who is Resident to the Elector of Saxony the Duke of Wirtemberg and many other Princes and States of the Empire Cato and Brutus might be endu'd with as much Virtue and as generous a Disposition as he but according to my Judgment not with more His Liberality was so great as to offer me whatsoever Rarity I cou'd find in his House which oblig'd me to take a Resolution to commend nothing any longer in his presence nevertheless I did not refuse all the Presents which he thought fit to make me and I hope e're long to shew some of 'em to your Highness In the mean while I must entertain you with two or three Divertisements which I saw taken by his Imperial Majesty who delights very much in Hunting and sometimes by that means recreates his Spirits wearied with the Fatigues that are inseparable from the Management of the Publick Affairs of the Empire I had a sight of the Emperor in a Forest about three Leagues from Vienna to the North where his Grand Huntsman had caus'd a Tent to be prepar'd for him under which he was with the Empress and those Courtiers whom he had sent for thither I was there in the Retinue of the Marquess of Baden Durlach a Prince whom you know my Lord to be Learned Judicious and as well vers'd in Civil as Military Affairs The Hunters started a great number of Stags and Hinds which were constrain'd to run round the Tent by reason of the Gins that were laid on all sides The Empress first fir'd at 'em with a Harquebuss and the Emperor shot nine or ten several times within the space of an Hour About five or six days before their Imperial Majesties had discharg'd Twenty three shot at Prater which is the usual Walking-place of the Emperor and the Gentry of Vienna It is a Forest of high Trees situated along the sides of the Danube convenient spaces being left for all sorts of Walks indeed this Place is very pleasant where Ogni di infonti o in boschi Scherzar si vedon ' colle belle i vaghi I saw one day three Tents which the Emperor had order'd to be fixt for the above-mention'd Hunting they were those that the Grand Signior had presented to him by his last Ambassadors and which were valu'd at sixty thousand Crowns His Imperial Majesty in like manner takes much delight in residing at Laxemburg which is a small Palace situated in a Champion Country at the distance of three Hours Journey from Vienna where he passes every Year four or five Weeks in the Season of
Heron-Fowling The Emperor also very much diverts himself with Musick and is perfectly well skill'd in the Science as I have been told He maintains in his Court a great number of Musicians the most part of whom are Italians and the others are either Germans or Spaniards The former have by much the clearest Voices but the later are not willing to purchase that advantage at so dear a rate and I have observ d that the Successors of the ancient Graecians and Romans are only of the contrary opinion and willing to unman themselves so far as to become Musitians and to give away part of themselves to divert others neither do we hear that in the rest of Europe any Persons are gelt for that purpose as in Turkey and in Italy I saw the Comedy of Andromeda acted with Machines which his Imperial Majesty caus'd to be represented in Italian to celebrate the Birth-day of the Empress Some days after a very magnificent Ball was made by his order in the entrance of the Palace where one hundred and fifty Players on Violins gave attendance who were all dress'd in the habit of Comaedians and contributed much to the Divertisement The Empress takes very great delight in such kinds of Sports perhaps because they resemble those of Spain She is honour'd in all those Countries as much as the Emperor himself which is done both by Reflection and out of a due Consideration of her particular Endowments The highest Veneration is likewise paid to the Empress Dowager who usually resides in the Favourites which is a pleasant Seat about a quarter of an Hours Journey from Vienna and has nothing extraordinary with respect to the Regularity of its Architecture but is convenient and spacious its Gardens being every where adorn'd with Fountains and Statues This Princess does not often appear at Court though she is always most honourably entertain'd there neither does she almost at all intermeddle with any Affairs of State She delights in Painting and diverts her self with that Art I have seen the Picture of a Virgin drawn by her hand which is kept in one of the Emperor's Treasuries But her chief Employment is the Education of her two Princesses who are both very beautiful and have well proportion'd Bodies Facies habent dignas Imperio At the distance of two Hours Journey from Vienna is to be seen a Garden which was formerly a great Theatre of War where Solyman the Ottoman Emperor encamp'd when he besieged Vienna God preserve Christendom and more especially this Country from such furious Attacks The very remembrance of past Histories is sufficient to make those tremble that have the least concern in the present On the Top of the Steeple of the great Church is fixt a Star in the middle of a Crescent which are the Arms of old Constantinople as your Highness may observe in the ancient Medals of Augustus's Time It was set up in Memory of this famous Siege and to excite the People incessantly to pray to God to divert this Scourge that so often threatens their Destruction For indeed my Lord the Great Turk is a bad Neighbour whose Power and Impiety render him equally formidable to Christendom This Garden has chang'd its form and is at present only a Place of Divertisements His Imperial Majesty causes wild Beasts and extraordinary Animals to be bred and nourish'd there among these are Lions Lionesses and young Lion-whelps that are engender'd in this place and sufficiently prove the Heat and Fruitfulness of the Climate I was about to buy two young Eagles on the Graben which is the finest Market-place of the City and was heretofore the Ditch and design'd to present 'em to your Highness but the want of the convenience of Carriage depriv'd me of this Honour They were taken out of their Nests in the Rocks of the Danube where they are often found being very common in Germany These sorts of Birds have been always admitted into the Coat Armour of the Empire as the most illustrious Symbol of strength and that which Constantine added a new was only to shew the Dominion which he had establish'd in the East and that he had united it to that of the West Will your Highness suffer me to make a diversion with reference to Constantine or rather are you willing that it shou'd be continu'd For this Letter seems to me to have no particular Subject nor any matter peculiar to it I have been often told that the Labarum was an invention of the Christans who were wont to make use thereof in their Armies as the Pagans of Sooth-sayings and Divinations to re-animate the courage of the Soldiers and to elevate their drooping Spirits and that the Monks enhanc'd the Reputation of this Story Do not give credit to such Reports my Lord for the Christian Religion which is truth it self does not stand in need of falsehood to maintain it I have in my possession the ancient Medal of Constantius the Son of Constantine the Great on the Reverse of which a Victory Crowns the Emperor who holds a Standard or Military Ensign on which the Word Christ is abbreviated and round about are read these words IN HOC SIGNO VICTOR ERIS AVSTRIA Upon the whole is so fertile that it has no occasion to envy the plenty of the Neighbouring Provinces The Fruits and particularly the Melons are almost as good there as in Italy and the Wines as agreeable to the Palate but a great deal stronger The heat of the Climate and the richness of the Soil are undoubtedly the cause of this quality Altho' the heat of the Sun is not more intense there than in the Parallel Regions yet the Air is quite otherwise heated for the Sulphur which is predominant in all those Countries augments their Heat and Fruitfulness nay I have reason to fear the excess of this Sulphureous heat which is apparently accompany'd with Nitre and some other Minerals that might cause a corrosive quality in their Wines tho' it were in never so small a quantity Their Cattle are large and fat insomuch that the Oxen of Austria and Hungary are talkt of every where throughout the World As for this last Country I hope your Highness will give me leave to entertain you for a while with its Description HVNGARY Is an admirable Country where perhaps there is greater store of Grain and Fruit than in any other part of the World there are Wines that have the strength and delicious taste of those of Spain and that even excell 'em in both as that of Tokay there are also some others as strong as Brandy I have heard this saying given out long ago Mirabilis Deus in Aquis Hungariae i. e. The wonderful effects of the Divine Omnipotence are apparent in the Waters of Hungary And indeed there are various kinds of all sorts of tast's and qualities but a Scoffer might reply except those that are good to drink for it is certain that all the Waters in Hungary are somewhat Mineral neither are
who make a Collection of Ages and discover the most secret Recesses of Nature to get Satisfaction and for their more noble Employment who seek for Truth in its very Origine and are addicted to those sorts of Charms and Beauties which proceed from a more skilful Hand than that of Art who by their choice of the best Things that are in the World do as it were create a new one for themselves who know how to unite the Mind and the Senses in the harmonious Enjoyment of the same Pleasures and to bring 'em to a perfect Association by giving Eyes to the Understanding and Understanding to the Eyes This is the Nature of Curiosity which is neither that Inclination for Trifles and Things of very little moment and serve only to amuse our Minds nor that impetuous Torrent of Luxury that swallows up Riches It has a greater Elevation than the former and less vehemency than the other with a Perspicuity and discerning Faculty that belongs to neither Upon the whole this Passion is altogether Divine which has inspir'd the Arts and Sciences which has adorn'd the Earth which has open'd the Roads of the Ocean and lastly which has so conveniently lodg'd us in this sublunary World In Republicks and Empires Curiosity has been observ'd to encrease with Power as if the Ambition of Heroes had labour'd only for the Enjoyment of Her as the chief Prize Victory my Lord never had a greater share in Triumphs than Curiosity which was usually there set off to the best advantage as the sweetest Fruit of Glory Then the most renowned Personages after the Fatigues of War were wont to employ themselves during the leisure of Peace in the performance of Enterprizes to the undertaking of which they were excited by Curiosity Finally those Temples those Pyramids those Amphitheatres those Columns that will never fall to ruin but with the Universe those Triumphal Arches consecrated to Eternity those Aqueducts that Causey 300 Leagues long which makes the Road from the Alps to Calabria those Banks that force the Sea even at this day the firmness and prodigious Mass of which might appear to our sight as the Work of the Almighty Power were we not otherwise inform'd in History are all the magnificent Productions of Curiosity But if I ever had any Veneration for this Virtue it ought to be more especially conspicuous in this most happy Conjuncture in which she has set me before your Highness and supply'd me with Matter proper for the composing of a Letter to be presented to so noble and so judicious a Personage The very diversity of Judgments and Opinions has its usefulness among Men For it animates and stirs up the Mind to a search after Truth and clears it from heaviness by keeping it in action It introduces all those different manners of Living that appear so admirable in the World This pleasing Variety which is every where conspicuous in the Political Government Manners and Commerce of divers People is the most agreeable object of Meditation to a curious or inquisitive Person who without putting himself upon the Wrack as those unfortunate Philosophers were heretofore wont to do admires contemplates enjoys and makes use of Argumentations according to the measure of his own Strength and personal Abilities How pleasant it is my Lord to see two reputed Wise-men taking different Roads to arrive at at the same Goal ever contending for the Truth and yet always continuing in Error in short endeavouring during the whole course of their Life to get a right Understanding and nevertheless dying without having obtain'd it How great delight there is in observing that nothing is less like a Man than a Man and that if Almighty God had not drawn the Lineaments of his Face with his own Hand he wou'd have found means to disfigure himself and to pass into another Form but his fantastical Humour cannot proceed so far He may indeed put off his Humanity but cannot alter his Shape If I were permitted my Lord to take a flight where my Imagination leads me might it not be affirm'd that Man is born with a certain universal Disposition to all the Natures of Animals that Reason makes him a Man and that by his exorbitant Passions he becomes a brute Beast of one kind or other according to the inclination with which he is carry'd away Thus nothing else is to be seen but these sorts of Beasts in Masquerade viz. Lions Eagles Tigres Foxes Horses Asses Swine and even Insects under the mask of a Man Your Highness who is so perspicacious cannot but take cognizance of these Humaniz'd Animals and of these fashionable Monsters I am apt to believe that you may sometimes make proper Reflections on this Subject but I return to my first Notions which are to consider how very different one sort of People is from another or one Nation from another For we every where meet with new Customs new Religions new manners of Apparelling Eating Living and even Dying Thus without expatiating too far we may observe that the Sages and chief Judges among the Chineses are cloath'd as our Buffoons and their High-Priests as our Comaedians they consecrate to their Religion what we detest in ours for Example these lewd Debauches of both Sexes which excite horror in us are charming delights to those People and had in great veneration among ' em The Indians are accustom'd to burn their dead Bodies the Americans to devour 'em and we to interr 'em but the Egyptians expose 'em to the Air by a kind of Superstition that does not cease to comprehend a subtil Notion even under its Absurdity for they believ'd that it was a piece of Jnjustice to bury the Corps in the bosom of the Earth that Heaven and the other Elements had a share in these dead Bodies and that the restitution of it was due which couâ—d not be better done than by depositing 'em in this great Vacuum which is common to 'em with all Neither did they erect those stately Pyramids but only to serve 'em as Tombs It is well known to your Highness how far the magnificence of these Works proceeded in which are still to be observ'd the boldness of Art and the first Beauties of Architecture as also the Mysteries of their Reâ—igion and the secrets of their History and Politicks nay they may be esteem'd as a Monument of the Country of Egypt as well as of the Aegyptians How wonderfully did this learned Nation find out Expedients against the accidents of Death they in a manner eterniz'd their dead Bodies lodging 'em in Edifices of an everlasting durableness and by a certain rare Secret unknown to the rest of the World they freed 'em from that mixture of Elements which tends to Corruption to leave 'em only the whole pure part of their Substance under a kind of first Matter We still see even at this day some of these natural Effigies or precious Phantoms in which are admir'd at the same time both the violent impression
Roland who is the Governour of the said Castle gave me entire Satisfaction in this Matter his Merit is extraordinary and his manner of Deportment the most obliging in the World I had Commendatory Letters from his Imperial Majesty which gave me admission into all the Appartments but I perceiv d in the Governour 's being so extremely officious to me that he was not only ready to obey the Orders but that he had also a particular Respect for the Bearer of 'em and that I cou'd not come off without acknowledging that I ow'd the sight of so many rare Curiosities purely to the Emperor's favour being also oblig'd to him for part of the delight I had taken in the viewing of ' em After having observ'd the Out-works of the Castle its Situation the order of the Buildings and the Fortifications I enter'd and apply'd my self entirely to the Enjoyment of those incomparable Treasures The first things that offer'd themselves to my view were some of those sorts of Stones of which the old Romans were wont to make use to mark the distances of Places which were counted in those times by tertio aut quarto ab Vrbe Lapide i. e. The third or fourth Stone from the City Some of 'em had no Inscriptions and those that had any were conformable to what I have read in ancient History From thence I pass'd into two Galleries full of all sorts of different Armour which are now in use and were so in former Ages They induc'd me to make this Reflection that Men notwithstanding that they might wear Skins of Iron and Steel or at least Cloaths made of those Materials were nevertheless neither invulnerable nor immortal I there saw the Arms of the two Maximilians of Charles V. and of some other Emperors as also those of Francis I. King of France with the Garment which he wore at the Battel of Pavia which makes me call to mind that I had already seen one in the Repository of Brussels so that he either put on two Suits of Cloaths on that day or they were divided on purpose to spread abroad the fame of the Victory at Brussels and Inspruck There are also to be seen those of Charles IX King of France of Ferdinand and Philip Kings of Spain of Don John of Austria and of many other Princes I was told that these last were the very same that he wore at the famous Battel of Lepanto But I spent some time in viewing those of Alexander Farnese Duke of Parma Governour of the Low-Countries recollecting what I had read in Strada concerning the notable Exploits of this Prince I know not whether any thing were wanting to his Merit but I am perswaded that his History cannot be better writ and that even the actions of Achilles and Alexander the great are not set off to more advantage by Historiographers than his I admir'd the Arms of Solyman the Great which as yet strike Terror into the Minds of Beholders and I remember with some Consternation that this Ottoman Emperor once caus'd the whole World to tremble The Arms of the most part of the renowned Generals of these later Times are in like manner kept in the same Repository The Arch-Duke Ferdinand made this Conquest cou'd any Man proceed farther my Lord than to disarm so many Heroes But this was only an amicable Conquest this Prince who was the most excellent Antiquary of all that govern'd in his Age knew well what value ought to be set upon those precious Spoils He was desirous to obtain 'em every where and was even sometimes prevented I am apt to believe that they were offer'd to him lest not being sought for they shou'd not have the good Fortune to be so gloriously consecrated At the end of one of the Galleries I saw the representation of a Giant and a Dwarf the living Originals of which had sometime resided at Vienna Indeed this exorbitant inequality of Stature between two Men is a very strange thing the Elder of these was not able to reach with his Hand to the Navel of the other yet a Ballad was made concerning a Box on the Ear which was given by this Dwarf to the Giant It is true that the later stoopt to take up the Emperor's Glove who had let it fall on purpose to facilitate the giving of the Box o' th' Ear. These sports of Nature are still much esteem'd at Vienna either because her Ability in forming Men of quite different sorts and sizes is there admir'd or her Error in sometimes making much more or else much less than she ought Their Imperial Majesties likewise maintain some of these Giants and Dwarfs in their Court whom I cou'd never behold without a kind of Horror in regard that they are so far from the ordinary proportion and size of other Men. In a spacious Hall are to be seen all the several sorts of Garments which the Turks are wont to wear both in their Houses and in the Camp There are many rich Vests in which the price quality quantity and colour of the Stuff of which they are made shew the natural Disposition of this Nation to Luxury and Magnificence This manner of attiring surpasses all ours that are introduc'd purely by a fantastical Humour and the continual change of which denotes but too much Levity If we cou'd be once perswaded to imitate this August manner of Apparelling and to appear in these magnificent pieces of Drapery perhaps we shou'd continue the use of 'em and our Fashion might turn to a settl'd Custom as among the Levantines And indeed these Infidels have got the advantage in this respect insomuch that one of their Visiers one day told the Venetian Ambassador that the Christians were apt to deride but were not well clad The Venetian might have reply'd elsewhere than at the Port 't is true but 't is pity to see such Swine as you attir'd with the Ornaments of Sovereign Princes I also observ'd there Turbans of a hundred various Fashions and one wou'd not imagine that they had all the same use The finest of 'em have a kind of stately Air and notwithstanding whatever our nice Fashion-mongers may affirm to the contrary these Mountains of Linnen-Cloath that serve so well to adorn the Heads of these Barbarians wou'd not disguise our Hero's for they really implant Grandeur and Severity in the Countenance which wou'd even set off Majesty it self Afterward I took a view of divers Cimeters or Hangers of great value for the rich Ornaments with which they are cover'd and also upon account of their rare Temper so that Fury it self might well go to work with these Weapons Lastly all manner of choice Rarities of this Country are to be found Here. In the same Hall are two Figures that represent two Turkish Lords on Horse-back and I observ'd in 'em as great an Air of Grandeur Gravity and Stateliness as is possible for Art to express in Copies but 't is probable that the Originals were quite another thing One
that appear'd in Pageants made in the form of Ships every one of which was drawn by six Horses when these Machines were brought under the Balcony of her Electoral Highness the Musicians began to play and Sing their Parts neither was there any need of Divination to conjecture that they were Sonnets of Praise compos'd on purpose for the Solemnity This Delight continu'd above two hours neither cou'd I perceive any one to be tir'd with it during the whole time but it was follow'd by a greater and more magnificent Diversion For four small Bands of Horse each of 'em consisting of four Horse-men rode about and shew'd their Bravery and Dexterity in the swiftness of their Horses in the exactness of their Course in the Agility of their Bodies and in that admirable Facility with which they were observ'd so fortunately to arrive at the Goal His Electoral Highness and Prince Maximilian his Brother appear'd at the Head of the two first Bands and it was observ'd that these two Princes who had won the first Prizes abated somewhat of their speed on purpose to leave the Honour altogether entire to their Officers and to give 'em the Recompence of Glory and the whole Victory which were due to their Merits This manner of acting has certainly a great Character and really there is need of a superfluity of Glory to be so prodigal of it His Electoral Highness is endow'd with all the other excellent Qualities that are requisite in an accomplish'd Prince It may be perceiv'd by his Conduct that the Heroical Vertues are set on work by Piety Gentleness and Moderation which inspire him with a perfect tranquillity of Mind When there are no occasions of carrying on a necessary War he is unwilling to undertake an unjust one thus he generously regulates his aspiring Thoughts endeavouring to bound their exorbitant Motions and to distribute the sweet Fruits of Peace and Prosperity throughout his Dominions If his Renown does not make so great a noise in the World 't is so much the more solid thus the Stars of the Firmament which dart so little light are of a value quite different from that of blazing Comets that cause so much admiration in the ignorant Multitude He takes much delight in Hunting and Fishing which puts me in mind of those of that excellent Emperor Antoninus Piscando venando oblectatus est By the means of these innocent Diversions he gets rid of all other less lawful Pleasures and his solid Delights are no detriment to his Health Religion or Secular Affairs I shall always remember even during my whole Life with the highest sense of Gratitude the signal Favours which he has conferr'd upon me neither can I declare 'em more gloriously than to your most Serene Highness His Electoral Highness condescended so far as to send an Officer to my House on purpose to shew me the Place of his Residence that is to say the Palace which the Elector Maximilian caus'd to be built at so vast an expence that all Germany was surpris'd at it and cou'd not comprehend whence he rais'd a sufficient Fond for the carrying on of so prodigious a Work Nevertheless this Magnificent Prince declar'd that if he cou'd be assur'd of living ten years longer he wou'd have it demolish'd in order to rebuild another more stately However this noble Pile of Building has so many different Appartments that besides those which are already possess'd there wou'd be room enough in the others to entertain the Emperor the King and the Electors as conveniently as in their own Palaces Your most Serene Highness wou'd be altogether tir'd with so long a Discourse if I shou'd proceed to give a more particular Account of its Architecture than which there can be nothing finer but 't is affirm'd by some Persons that there is no such Architecture to be found whose Orders take up so vast a space of Ground There is so great a quantity of Marble that one wou'd believe it to be the natural Product of that Country and the ordinary Stones of those beyond the Mountains because they are more scarce in those Parts There is no Corner Nich Gate nor Chimney that has not its Statues or Ornaments in Relief but all this disappears at the sight of the Hall of ancient Monuments There one may reckon up 354 Busts or Statues drawn half way of Jaspar Porphyry Brass and Marble of all Colours which represent either Graecian Generals or Roman Emperors and Personages whom either their high Birth or notable Exploits have as it were immortaliz'd Among other Statues I saw that of Alexander of Macedon larger than the Life It has all that ravishing design of Antiquity which inspirits the Marble and gives it so lively an Air that less Art is discern'd in it than a kind of Magical Energy insomuch that one may observe at the same time Valour Ambition and that charming Civility which had so great a share in the Conquests of Asia In short Alexander the Great is much better represented here than in the History of his Atchievements The other Statues are likewise admirable in their several kinds and a much greater quantity of Paper than that which is sufficient for a Letter wou'd be requisite to make particular Reflections on every one of these Curiosities There are also to be seen a great number of Idols and Vessels that serv'd for the Sacrifices of the Ancients There are two Galleries one of which is adorn'd with a hundred Portraitures of Illustrious Personages especially those that were famous for their extraordinary Learning who were not unknown to me Upon the Cieling of the other are represented the principal Towns of Bavaria as also the Rivers Castles and whatever is most remarkable within the compass of this Electorate I saw a Hall of that sort of Work which the Italians call Stucador where the Figures are excellent The King of Sweden who made himself Master of Munick met with nothing in this Palace more beautiful than a Chimney-piece made of Stuc with the Work-manship of which he was exceedingly pleas'd to that degree that he seem'd to be much discontented that it cou'd not be made a Spoil But when a certain Lord among his Attendants endeavour'd to perswade him to cause these stately Buildings to be demolish'd he reply'd That he had no mind to deprive the World of so great a Rarity Thus Magnanimity appears every where magnificent and 't is to be endu'd with the true principles of Generosity to spare the Goods and Estate of an Enemy The Appartment of the Elect'ress is admirable and her Highness was so Gracious as to permit that it shou'd be shewn to me There is nothing to be seen but Gold and Azure but that is what I least consider'd The Furniture and Moveables are so sumptuous and the Attire so splendid that if I had not known that she was descended of the Royal Stock of Savoy I might easily have guess'd that this Neatness came from beyond the Alps. Indeed Italy
as if the Air which I draw in by Respiration in different Provinces inspir'd me with new Knowledge at least it supplies me with Matter for new Meditations neither do I take any notice of such sorts of Varieties as surprise the most part of those that never had a sight of 'em yet I often find an opportunity to spend my time to better purpose I do not insist on the difference of Habits in every Nation altho' there are some so odd that they even appear ridiculous I have sometimes sought for the Reason or Original of 'em but cou'd never discover it neither did I expect to find it any where but in Usefulness and Decency which in my mind are the two Rules to be observ'd in Cloathing However I was oblig'd to be content with the ordinary Fashions that is to say the Custom of those People who make use of 'em Besides this Custom which Herodotus treats with the style of Royal is a kind of Supreme Law more especially in Germany where Novelty is not so easily admitted as in other Places Thus a House is usually rebuilt after the very same Model that 't was built in the preceeding Age and if a Man shou'd go about to perswade a Proprietary never so little to make the Structure more regular to give it more light to diminish the thickness of its Walls and to deviate somewhat from the ancient manner of Building on purpose to take the advantage of so many Conveniences that arise from the more refin'd modern Architecture he wou'd immediately answer that he derided the new Mode that his deceased Father or his Grand-father were very prudent Persons and that they had caus'd the exact Dimensions of this House to be taken such as they now appear to be if perhaps even they had not receiv'd the Model from their Predecessors but in a Word that he was resolv'd to make no alteration The same Temper is also observable with some sort of rigour in the exercise of the most part of other Arts which are practis'd even at this day in those Parts after the same manner as under Charlemaigne altho' a thousand considerable Inventions have been found out since his Reign and very many more Works are brought to Perfection with a much less expence both of Mony and Time I was surpris'd to see Meat dress'd in many Places as Tacitus makes it to be done by those Germans whom he knew only to be Barbarians It is true indeed that in others particularly within your Territories my Lord this ancient manner has been long since laid aside and no other is follow'd but that which is wholsome neat and magnificent As for the Art of Physick I have a somewhat greater knowledge of it and have observ'd that almost every where they make use of a great quantity of Drugs and of that Method of Practice which prevail'd two thousand years ago as if we were Socrates's or Epaminondas's without making any Reflection that the diversity of Climates Aliments and Customs which alter the Bodies of Men and their Constitutions produce new Symptoms and Circumstances in Diseases and require new Remedies or at least a different Application of the old ones There was scarce a Woman that did not censure me for not prescribing a Dose of Hellebore according to Hippocrates's Form Therefore without alledging any other Reason altho' I might have done it I reply'd that People were in this Age much more sensless and silly than heretofore and that upon that account quite different Remedies were to be apply'd The Argumentation which might be made upon these Customs wou'd be without doubt very tedious at least too prolix for your Approbation my Lord and for my own Inclination so that I shall confine my Discourse to those Matters that have the nearest relation to both and to those that have not been as yet so copiously treated of as Pieces of Morality on which Subject I meet with Books almost every where as I am travelling BASIL Is the first City that presents it self to my Mind perhaps because 't was the first that I saw among those of which I have some account to give to your most Serene Highness It s Political Government Strength Alliances and State of Religion are well known to all Europe and to your Highness more than any other Person and so much the rather in regard that you are Master of some Territories which are distant only a quarter of an hours Journey from thence as also that you always honour this Republick with your Friendship and often with your Presence I might perhaps have taken there some singular Observations which wou'd have afforded some Satisfaction to your Highness Some of my Friends who are almost always to be suppos'd Men of Learning and ever of good Reputation conducted me within two Leagues of the City here you may be pleas'd to take notice by the way that my Leagues are equivalent only to the German half Leagues commonly call'd Hours by reason of the time that a Man may spend in passing it on foot with his ordinary Pace There we view'd the Ruins of that ancient City which gave to Basil the Title of Augusta Rauracorum the name of the Village that remains having very much relation thereto For AVGST Undoubtedly derives its Etymology from Augusta The adjacent Country is altogether full of these old Ruins so that we took much delight in going on foot about the distance of half an hours Journey from the principal Castle where we perceiv'd in a Forest an Opening which discover'd to us a vaulted Canal with some considerable remnant of Architecture It is reported that it serv'd as an Aqueduct for the Place which is situated on very high Ground seems to demonstrate it but others affirm that 't was a secret Passage for Forces in case of Necessity for 't was as it were the Lodgment of the Germans who Marching from the Black Forest call'd Sylva Hercynia in the ancient Maps endeavour'd to pass the Rhine there to make their Incursions against the Romans The principal Castle which is now known to the Inhabitants of the Country by the name of Das Scolfs might also have been a part of the Town and was one of those three with which the Passage of the Rhine was fortify'd which being lower in those Parts than elsewhere may be so much the more easily travers'd Ariovistus escap'd thither after having been defeated by Caesar and some time after Drusus caus'd to be built in the Neighbourhood the Burgh of Guards which still even at this day bears the name of Bartemburg The Salt-Tower which remains at Basil near the Bridge is built after the same manner insomuch that it may well be presum'd that those three sorts of Castles were erected on purpose to discover the Enemies with greater facility and vigorously to oppose their Passage on whatever side they shou'd attempt it However the Place deserves all the pains that we took in the viewing of it and it appears by the name
It may not be improper here to say somewhat to Your Highness concerning this M. Platerus whom they took for a Devil or at least for an Inchanter He is a Professor of Physick and a Man of extraordinary Parts and of a most Genteel Carriage being the Son Grand-Son and as I take it the Great Grand-Son Son of a Physician which answers to what was heretofore call'd 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 The fine Musoeum or Repository of Rarities which is carefully kept in the possession of his Family and the Epigram which Theodore Beza wrote in its commendation are sufficient Testimonials of the Learning and Ingenuity of the Proprietaries There is neither Plant Metal Mineral Figure nor any extraordinary Curiosity which is not contain'd in this rich Treasury There are also some of those kinds of Rarities for which the Roman Catholicks have a greater Veneration than those of the Reformed Religion and among others a precious Relick of our Blessed Saviour's Crown of Thorns There are also divers Medals but let us not leave Augst without acquainting Your Highness that some of 'em are often met with in tilling the ground I have heard as much of many Persons and have even seen some of 'em of all sorts of Metals I went myself to the Cottages of divers honest Country-men thereabouts who shew'd me some that they had found a few daies ago and among others I procur'd one of Delmatius the Nephew of Constantine with the Labarum or Imperial Standard and the mark of JESUS CHRIST I can assure you that in the payment which I made 'em they twice lookt earnestly upon my Money nay these ignorant People were so simple as to fear lest sometime after it should turn into Oak leaves But at Basil they were much otherwise undeceiv'd and in that City I have seen many Persons of better sence without doing any injury to the others There they delight much in Learning and Integrity which is a Union that is very seldom to be met with and which affords me extream satisfaction The Oriental Languages have been alwaies most carefully cultivated there and the Learned Buxtorfius who is Professor of 'em perfectly answers the Character which his Father had acquir'd of being the most Skilful Master of the Hebrew Tongue in the World If M. Wetstein were as well vers'd in Divinity as in all the other Parts of Human Literature it might be avouch'd that he has attain'd to the highest degree of perfection in that Science but forasmuch as I have but little knowledge of Divinity and less of that sort which is there Taught I shall leave his Commendation to others who are capable of doing it to better advantage But I must add that he is the most obliging Person in the World and that he has a Son who is no less so than himself whose Youth is adorn'd with as many Sciences and singular Endowments as are requisite for an able Divine The Famous Professor Bauhinus has sufficiently signaliz'd himself by his Works without standing in need of my assistance neither will I undertake to compose an Encomiastick in his favour but only declare him to be one of the most Accomplish'd and Polite Men in the World that he has a great affection both for me and my Father and is belov'd by all Persons of Honour To conclude this Country is altogether full of such Illustrious Personages and among others we must not forget M. Battier who perhaps has attain'd to the knowledge of as many curious Sciences as ever were known in Switzerland and has made very good use of the time which he spent at Paris in conversing with Learned Men and particularly with Mr. Justel He has also a Cousin whose Name is known to Your Highness Besides that the Family of the Fesch's is one of the most considerable in the City give me leave My Lord to tell you that 't is also one of the most Numerous as it will appear from this single Example Rodolph Fesch Burgomaster and the Son of a Burgomaster after sixty years of marriage with Ann Gebveiler saw one hundred sixty and five Children begotten by himself his Children and Grand-Children One of these is nam'd Sebastian and has in his possession one of the finest Repositories in Germany His House is a Palace and Your most Serene Highness is very sensible that these Republicans are not only content but well pleas'd with their manner of living neither could I have ever imagin'd that they were endu'd with so much Politeness But let us leave the Outworks and enter the Repository it self where nothing is wanting for there are Paintings Sculptures Books and other Curiosities of all sorts As for the Medals My Lord since Your Highness does not refuse to honour me so far as to give credit to my Assertions without an Oath I hope you 'll take my word in this particular There are some so singular that they are surprizing neither have they any relation to the Memoires which I have of other Repositories or to the Descriptions of Authors or to those that I have seen elsewhere The Possessor of 'em bears not only the same sincere affection toward me as all other Honourable Persons of my Acquaintance but also shews that sweetnes of Conversation which the Graecians call 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which is not conformable to what is commonly reported concerning the Switzers who are reputed to be a dull and rustical sort of People I have sometimes convers'd with and have held correspondence with 'em in different Countries and never perceiv'd any such quality inherent in 'em I have observ'd 'em generally speaking to be Industrious Faithful Accurate Sincere Candid and for the most part very Learned nay I have been surpriz'd to meet with some who have attain'd to the highest degree of Politeness I shall not insist upon their Religion nor Civil Government These People as they say are well vers'd in matters relating to the former and I am throughly persuaded that they are perfectly well skill'd in the other I shall only beg leave of your Most Serene Highness to add a word or two concerning the extream kindness that M. Fesch shew'd me and in which My Lord you have a greater Interest than perhaps you are aware of He permitted me to take a Draught with a Pen of all those Rare Medals that I have already mention'd to Your Highness This was to procure me a small Treasure without diminishing his own and to lay an everlasting obligation upon me by so great a favour Again My Lord the Curiosities to be seen in the City of Basil are extended yet farther for I am unwilling to let slip an opportunity of entertaining Your Highness with the Description of another Repository which is very much talk'd of upon account of its Famous Founders Erasmus and Amerbachius whose Memory is highly honour'd in that Countrey which acknowledges them as the Restorers of good Literature The first of these is Painted half way by Holbein and upon that Picture this
adorn'd with all the Embellishments of Painting I cou'd never look upon it without making very pathetical Reflections upon our Mortality It is expos'd to publick view and to make it as it seems yet more publick the whole Design was engrav'd on Copper-prints in the preceeding Age by a very able Master And indeed this little Book is not unworthy of a Place in a fine Library If I were oblig'd to stay till I had taken a full view of all the Rarities in this City I shou'd never leave it yet there is one notable Circumstance of which I cannot but take some notice In the Arsenal are to be seen the Spoils of Charles Duke of Burgundy I mean that great Prince My Lord whose memorable Exploits fill up the whole History of that Age but the Switzers made it appear that he was not invincible and that 't is very dangerous at the same time to make an attempt upon Justice and Liberty of which Truth Morat and Nancy will be everlasting Proofs In the Neighbourhood of Basil one may observe a thousand Remarkable Things that depend on the Situation and Nature of the Place The natural Landskip of the Country thereabouts is a most delightful object and even the Prospect of Basil along the River which runs thro' the two Towns is admirable Is not that part of the Rhine where the Salmons go up again from the Sea to propagate their kind in like manner very considerable The Season of their arrival is precisely known as also the time of their abode and that of their departure The Fisher-men are ready to take an advantage from this opportunity and are never deceiv'd The Golden Sands which are found in some parts of the adjacent Country sufficiently shew that there are some Mines of Gold and I cou'd wish that they were already discover'd by such Persons as deserve to be fortunate At my return from Basil I saw BRISACH One of the Strongest Holds in the World none can be ignorant of the Conquest of those Parts made by Bernard Duke of Weimar who deliver'd up the Town to the French which was also granted to 'em in the Treaty of Munster I saw the little Village where he dy'd between Basil and Brisach This wou'd be a proper place to make mention of Strasburg but I shall referr the matter to another opportunity since this Famous City deserves a more particular Description In passing down the Rhine we come to PHILIPSBVRG Philippopolis and Vdenheim are the Names by which 't is known in the Latin and German Writings It has been noted for its Sieges during the last Wars of Germany but now thanks be to God all those commotions are allay'd The General Treaty of Peace has left this Place to its old Master the Bishop of Spier under the Garrison of the King of France that is to say the Town belongs to that Prelate and the Fort to his Most Christian Majesty or rather the Bishop is the Lord of it and the King the Master About four hours Journey from thence to the right stands HEIDELBERG This City notwithstanding its meanness is beautify'd with all manner of Ornaments The Necker which washes its Walls supplies it with very wholsom Water abundance of Fish and the most pleasant Walks in the World But that which renders it most delectable and enhances its Reputation is the generous Wine that bears its Name and which is drunk in all the parts of Europe where there are any noble Entertainments The University was heretofore one of the most Famous in Christendom and still retains its whole Merit but is somewhat depopulated thro' the malignity of the Times For that Country has been oppress'd with War above 30 years and stood in need for its restauration of a Government as prudent and as exact as that of a Prince who now constitutes the sole happiness of his Subjects The differences between him and the Duke of Lorrain have for a while interrupted his Design of restoring this Place to its ancient splendour but 't is probable that Heaven will prosper his Undertakings and good Intentions The Alliance which is at present negotiating between his Noble Stock and the Royal Family of France is a sufficient Testimony of the Esteem that he has gain'd in that Court England Sweden and Denmark maintain a very considerable Correspondence with him and even a greater than with the other Princes of the Empire The Marriage of the Electoral Prince with the Princess of Denmark is an Illustrious proof of what I have just now declar'd but his Highness's presence is capable of affording more Noble Idea's Indeed every thing that is sublime serves only to consummate his Character that is to say Magnificence Generosity Magnanimity Solidity of Judgment and that profound Wisdom which appears in all the particulars of his Conduct As for the Electoral Prince His Son none of these excellent Endowments are wanting in him which promise to represent to us one day in His Person all those rare Qualities which we so much admire in that of the Elector His Father Perhaps I might have left Heidelberg without making any mention to Your Highness of the Great-Tun if the ingenious M. Polier had not admonish'd me that it ought not to be forgot I confess that Advice seems to tend somewhat to debauchery yet it proceeds from a very sober Person whose moderation is every where well known but he is sensible that Prodigies deserve to have a place among Curiosities This huge Tun My Lord is as Famous as the Rhodian Colossus was heretofore which had no greater a quantity of Water between its Leggs than this contains of Wine within its Cavity I am apt to believe that the product of a whole Vintage might be stow'd in it and its compass and thickness is so great that 't is requisite to undertake a Journey to View it all over For it is twenty one Foot high thirty one long and sufficiently capacious to hold two hundred and twenty ordinary Tuns of Wine Thus this prodigious Vessel bears its own Ocean and such a one as has its ebbing and flowing Tides 't is also very dangerous to sail upon it and a Navigator is no sooner come near it but he immediately loses his Compass Storms frequently arise there without any boistrous Winds or foul Weather and the Understanding suffers Shipwrack even in the very Harbour In a word this is that Pacifick Sea which involves the whole World in a Hurricane without disturbing its own Tranquillity In following the course of the Necker one may arrive at MANHEIM It wou'd be difficult for me to forget its Situation for besides that I have often taken particular notice of it 't is also represented upon that Medal with which his Electoral Highness Palatine has thought fit to honour me where it appears that this Fort serves as a Defence to the Rhine and Necker both which Rivers are cover'd and secur'd by it At my return I saw the residue of that Magnificent Entertainment which
their Heroes and if some have been more renowned than others 't is because the Occasions were more opportune and not in regard that their Endowments were not equally conspicuous History supplies us with a Relation of past Occurrences and produces the particular circumstances of Time but the exact Truth and the nicest Points are often wanting or the manner of Expression does not furnish us with a true Idea of the nature of the Things as they appear in the Medal This is not a proper Place to discourse of every Particular that we know on this Subject but give me leave My Lord to declare that I have not met with so many Ingenious Lovers of Curiosity elsewhere as in Germany This part of Europe which has peopl'd all the others has reserv'd the best Treasures to it self so that it may well be affirm'd that the rest is only the Refuse and in the comparison we shall alwaies find a very great inequality It is true indeed that there are some more fashionable People whose Manners are more polite and that wou'd have the advantage if they were seen only once or twice so that it seems as if their study'd Regularity serv'd only to cover their Deformities and perhaps Your Most Serene Highness may have already made this Reflection that even where no solid Judgment is to be found there appears a kind of modish Air or affected Gallantry which dazzles the Eyes at least I have often observ'd it in France Again where no sense of Honour nor real Generosity is to be met with there is a studious affectation of Civil Carriage and a certain number of Cadences which seem to supply the defect and to afford some satisfaction but are really nothing less than Vertue The Germans My Lord are more Grave and naturally endu'd with a great deal of Solidity They are what they appear to be but in regard that they do not appear at first sight altogether as they are much Skill or at least Application is requisite to discover their Merit Among them more especially good Nature and Courtesie are in their natural Purity and their Integrity of manners is altogether plain without any adulterate mixture or disguise which is every where the Character of a generous and free Temper that cannot endure Affectation These People are ready to perform whatever they undertake in good earnest without putting themselves to any trouble to find out agreeable and specious manners of setting about the Work so that a Man may soon know when they bear good will toward him and when not In short to make use of the Terms of one of our Ministers of State The Heart never appears there in Mascarade but Sincerity and Candour are the distinguishing Marks of the Country Tacitus had declar'd as much sixteen hundred years ago Nullos mortalium armis aut fide ante Germanos esse i. e. None ever surpass'd the Germans in Valour and Fidelity It is of no great importance to know whether the Love of Curiosity be common among 'em upon account of that natural Inclination they have for Truth which is discover'd in it as it were in its source or by reason of that severity of Temper which of all the Divertisements of the Mind induces 'em to make choice of the noblest and most profitable However 't is certain that Curiosity is most honour'd and sought for by the best means in those Parts and I have every where found this Disposition predominant I shall here subjoyn some Discoveries which have been made by me in my last Journey which Gratitude obliges me to consecrate to Your Most Serene Highness not being able at present to do any of greater moment for Your Service I shall begin then with Kniebis in Schwaben What a prodigious Mountain is this My Lord It s vast height which leaves the Clouds far below it and set my Feet almost in Heaven surpriz'd me less than the two Seasons which I saw there at the same time and at the distance only of four Paces one from another that is to say Heat and Cold met together which every where else make so great a noise over our Heads the Reason as they say is because they cannot agree in a Neutral Country but altho' they be neighbours yet if each be detain'd in its respective Region nothing is more quiet and calm If this Observation in Natural Philosophy be true I am content to referr myself to it however I very well remember that I was frozen and broil'd within a Moment without hearing any such Noise I left the Prodigy soon after in order to pass to Wirtemberg The Hills thereabouts appear'd to me the finest and most delightful in the World being altogether beset with Vine-yard Plots and Corn-fields These plentiful Crops by I know not what Disposition caus'd by the situation of the Country form a most pleasant Land-skip on all sides and a kind of Regularity which is extreamly surprizing The Inhabitants are very sociable perhaps because they are supply'd with all manner of Conveniences Thus a good accomodation at home naturally inspires us with sentiments of Civility toward Strangers but these People owe part of this Domestick happiness to the Generosity of their Prince so that one cannot cast an Eye upon 'em without every were perceiving the marks of the Gentleness of his Government Power and Authority are only exerted in Protection and Discipline and this is the only use that is there made of Soveraignty so that I am apt to believe nothing more is needful for the eternizing of his Memory How difficult it is to use absolute Power with so much moderation and what a degree of Constancy and Magnanimity My Lord is requisite to attempt nothing when one is in capacity of doing every thing and to maintain the exercise of so many Vertues amidst all the bad Examples of the degenerate Age I shall stop here without extending my Reflection any farther which wou'd be too hard a Task The Rarities of the College of TVBINGVEN Are more agreeable to my Inclination and I am desirous of mentioning 'em to Your most Serene Highness as being one of the principal Ornaments of Wirtemberg Every thing is there conformable to the illustrious name which it bears The Building with its outer-Courts and Embellishments is Magnificent it is also very spacious and its Appartments well order'd for the convenience of all those sorts of Schools and publick Exercises which are there perform'd There are divers Masters not only endu'd with singular Abilities but also with all manner of Politeness and Courtesie so that the Scholars under 'em soon make a considerable progress in all the parts of Humane Literature Their Tables are not only plenfully furnish'd with all sorts of necessary Provisions but even with Dainties The Division of Time is so well manag'd that that exact distribution of Hours for every particular Employment formes a settl'd Custom which becomes very agreeable to the Disposition of the Students insomuch that it appears less to
there he dy'd in bringing him back to Leipsick there was planted the Artillery of the Imperialists and there that of the Swedes there was the main Battel and the greatest slaughter and there were interr'd the nine or ten thousand Men that remain'd in the Field All the Towns round about will for a long time bear the lamentable Marks of this furious War It seem'd as if I there saw 'em all together so that Lutzen Namburg and Weissenfeld in particular possess d my Mind much longer than my Eyes It is known to all Merchants that there are great Fairs kept at LEIPSICK Altho' Learned Men are sufficiently inform'd of the Constitutions of its University yet they have not so good an Account of its Curiosities I there view'd the Repository of Burgomaster Laurents full of all sorts of Rarities But his House is a Palace which is more valuable than the Repository His Daughter is esteem'd as a very vertuous Gentle-woman who is well skill'd in various Sciences and knows how to express 'em in several Languages which rare Qualities may be sufficient to set a higher value upon her Person than upon the House and Repository I had also a fight of divers Medals in some other Places and among others in the renowned Musoeum of M. Meyer which is to be expos'd to sale but if every thing that I have been told concerning this Repository be true I had as many Ducates about me as wou'd be sufficient to pay for the Purchase One of those Persons who shew'd me these Rarities and is in part Heir to 'em was very angry at me when he heard me say that his Copper-Medals of Otho were not Genuine But he was so firmly perswaded to the contrary that I was very near receiving an Affront as the Reward of my too ingenuous Sincerity besides the disappointment of being depriv'd of the sight of the rest This unlucky Accident made me take a Resolution not to speak so much as one word for the future when I met with people of such a peevish Humour and not to declare the Truth upon the like occasions till I were ready to depart from the Place However there is to be seen a large siz'd Copper-Medal of Julia the Wife of Augustus which in my mind wou'd be the most precious of this Repository if I had no grounds to suspect it to be counterfeit Its Consecration is apparent from the Figure of a Peacock and the Inscription Besides these there are some other good Gold and Silver Medals of which I took a Memorandum but eight hundred Crowns were demanded for 'em which is a greater summ of Money than I was willing to lay out upon such an Account WITTEMBERG Is a fair City well fortify'd both by Nature and Art and adorn'd with an University But the Students in Divinity are not there endu'd with so much Moderation as in the other Places where the same Religion is predominant They are more rude and as I durst avouch it more outragious than elsewhere In the Church of the Castle they take delight in shewing to Strangers the Sancta Sanctorum of the High Altar despoil'd of every thing that it contain'd Ossa Sanctorum debent quiescere i. e. The Bones of the Saints ought to lye at rest say they We have bury'd under that Stone hard by all the Relicks which the Papists were wont to adore there and this was one of the first effects of our Reformation I likewise saw divers Paintings rather scandalous than edifying and one among others in which the Painter has introduc'd Doctor Martin Luther and D. Philip Melancthon administring the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper on their left hand is a Representation of Hell thro' the wide mouth of a Fiend in the inside of which appears a Pope attended with Cardinals Prelates and Monks I cou'd not forbear asking the Person that conducted me whether that were a Place dediceted to Divine Service and whether these Pictures inspir'd those People with Devotion In the same Church are erected two very stately Brazen Statues of the two Dukes and Electors of Saxony Frederick III. and John The former founded the University of Wittemberg changing the Religion of his Country but the other compleated the Work and presented his Confession of Faith to the Emperour Charles V. at Augsburg I stay'd in this Place so much the more willingly to take a view of two admirable Paintings of Albert Durer and of two Portraitures of Luther and Melancthon as large as the Life drawn by Lucas Cranis which are plac'd over against 'em and above their Tombs There are also some other Pieces of the same Painter but none so odd as that which I saw in the principal Church of the City which is as it were the Parochial It is drawn by an excellent Artist and represents our Saviour Jesus Christ follow'd by St. Peter and some other Apostles who fell into the Hands of Judas and the Jews Your Highness cou'd never imagine what manner of Ornaments are appropriated to 'em For our Saviour's Person appears wearing a Triple Crown upon his Head exactly as the Pope is painted at Rome and those that accompany him are cloath'd in the Habit of Cardinals Bishops Priests c. Is this a true representation of the Jews who betray'd and deliver'd up Jesus Christ nevertheless this is their meaning I have seen many Lutherans elsewhere and have alwaies found 'em more moderate Indeed Reproaches serve only to exasperate the Minds of People and to excite Hatred and Animosities and what can be expected in the end but all sorts of Calamities I am much rather inclin'd to pronounce with a low voice Doce nos Deus vias tuas c. O Lord teach us thy Statutes Upon the whole the Memory of Dr. Luther is extreamly honour'd in that Country so that the Inhabitants have a great Veneration for the Places thro' which he pass'd the Chambers where he slept the Books that he read and the Gardens where he walkt They have likewise given his name to a certain Spring which is distant about a mile from the City because he was often wont to repair thither to study and to hold Conferences with his Friends concerning the Reformation which he was about to introduce We continu'd our Journey very speedily to BERLIN Altho' the extent of the Country be very large yet Travellers are wont to ride poste upon this Road in Chariots that run incessantly day and night neither is there any rest to be taken but only to change the Horses I was deliver'd from this Fatigue as soon as I saw Berlin and every thing there appear'd so beautiful to me that I fancy'd there was a kind of opening in the Firmament thro' which the Sun dispens'd its most benigne Influences to this Territory neither are those dismal Solitudes to be seen any longer thro' which I had lately travell'd The City is compos'd as it were of three others whose Buildings are very regular and for the most part after the
Italian method of Architecture The Forest which is situated at the distance only of half a mile from thence affords much delight to the Prince who maintains in it numerous Heards of Deer and all sorts of Game where he often diverts himself with Hunting after such an extraordinary and pleasant manner as very few Persons are capable of apprehending it I have even heard it reported that he knows so precisely the very moment when the wild Bore is ready to pass by that he leaps upon his back as it were that of a Horse and sitting astride stabbs the Beast under him This circumstance alone is sufficient to strike terrour into my Mind and none can bear such Affection toward this Prince as I do without fearing at least the Mis-fortunes that may happen to his Noble Person by exposing it to so desperate an Adventure Therefore I wou'd willingly give him the same Advice that Venus once did to her beloved Adonis In audaces non est audacia tuta Neve feras quibus arma dedit natura lacesse Fulmen habent acres in aduncis dentibus apri The Gardens are there full of Orange and Lemmon Trees Jasmin and all kinds of Flowers and in a word afford all those charming Delights which have procur'd Italy the Royal style of Queen of Countries by reason of the advantage of its Climate and the fruitfulness of its Soil The Castle in which his Electoral Highness resides is a very ancient Fabrick and its Architecture shews a kind of Majestick Air but the modern Buildings joyn'd to it are most commodious The Library is there plac'd in so magnificent an Appartment that I know none that surpasses it in Beauty Indeed it well deserves so advantageous a situation for 't is one of the finest and most compleat in the World both as to the number and choice of the Books of which it consists The Cabinet of Medals that accompanies it in like manner may well be thought worthy to be view'd by all ingenious Lovers of Curiosity His Electoral Highness who is entirely addicted to the administration of the Government does not cease nevertheless to allow some time for the compleating of this Collection One wou'd scarce imagine how great a progress he has made in the Work only within his own Territories about Wesel Santen and Cleves where a great quantity of these Medals has been found and what is most important even of those that are very rare That of Cornuficius is of this number than which I never saw a finer but I shall not here produce a particular Description of any of 'em I have Memorandum's of those that are most valuable and these Notes are as good luck wou'd have it very considerable nay I have even delineated with a Pen those that I judg'd to be singular But they were so numerous that I was oblig'd another day to desire leave to employ myself in the same Work I remember that I spent the second time five or six hours in the enjoyment of this agreeable Diversion and that I very much enrich'd my Manuscripts with those Rarities But altho' I had observ'd only the tenth part of 'em yet I shou'd have thought my Journey undertaken to very good purpose The custody of these choice Treasures is committed to M. Heimhach who is a very great Admirer of 'em and I doubt not but that he contributes as far as his utmost Abilities will admit to the satisfaction of which the Elector his Master is desirous in these Matters Indeed this Prince is as exact in his scrutiny as is possible which is apparently the effect of the skill that he has acquir'd in such Curiosities and of the sagacity of his Judgment He did me the Honour once to tell me that he took great delight in this Employment and that he wou'd spend more time in it as soon as the more important Affairs of State cou'd allow him so much leasure However My Lord the Season was very improper for the carrying on of our Studies in regard that then there was no talk in Berlin nor even in the whole Marquisate but of the Passage and Levies of Soldiers In this Conjuncture all Europe had regard to his Electoral Highness's Conduct it was also well known that the Hollanders did not hope for a more potent nor more ready Protector and that the Assistance he afforded 'em was sufficient to prevent or at least to deferr their Ruin His memorable Actions perform'd not long since have gain'd him so great renown in Poland and Sweden that his very name alone is capable of supporting the Interest of that Party which he shall think fit to favour In a word he is a Prince of an admirable Genius insomuch that I never saw any Man that had not a respect for his Person and as for my own part I must acknowledge that my Affections toward him are most cordial and sincere But I ought also to acquaint Your Most Serene Highness that I am more particularly oblig'd to the same Prince for the kind Entertainment he afforded me at Berlin for the Offers with which he was pleas'd to honour me and for his Generosity in condescending so far as to tell me that he was desirous to hold a Correspondence with me I hope this Word may not be offensive to You My Lord His Electoral Highness only thought fit to lay his commands upon me in Matters relating to Curiosity ancient History and Medals and I have reason to take it very ill if my Enemies shou'd seek an occasion from thence to create me new Troubles As to those that are past I doubt not but God the King and Time will do me Justice and indeed it might have been already done but 't is my Duty to wait with Patience In the Elector of Brandenburg's Court at Berlin there is another illustrious Personage as well vers'd in Curiosity as any that I know I mean in the knowledge of Medals which we call by way of Excellency the most delicate Curiosity He is a Privy Councellour to his Electoral Highness who has as great a quantity of Medals in his possession as is possible for a private Person to procure Some of 'em are so well preserv'd that it sufficiently appears that they belong to a choice Collection which is of a very old standing I was acquainted with him in France above twenty years ago and notwithstanding his youth I easily foresaw his future Merit neither were my expectations deceiv'd in this particular for his Learning has encreas'd with his Age and I doubt whether there be any one besides myself that takes a greater delight in Medals than he This Noble-man has spent some years in Italy and has travell'd thro' the whole Continent of Germany and his profound skill induces me to believe that he has observ'd every thing that is necessary to be taken notice of in order to constitute an Ingenious Learned Judicious and absolutely accomplish'd Person I can also assure Your Highness that he is one of the
modern Physicians studiously avoid that commendation with which they were so much charm'd in the preceding Age in treating 'em as excellent Chymists This would now be esteem'd the Character of a very unfortunate Physician not that I wou'd by any means go about to condemn the Art of Chymistry I am not ignorant of its wonderful effects but I am also sensible that 't is a kind of Stumbling-block which causes the most part of those that come near it to fall even to their utter disappointment My Father whose Memory is most precious to me was wont to say that it was the Ape of the Galenical Art and the adulterated Coin of our Profession The Castle of Salizburg is a somewhat surprizing Structure and is justly esteem'd as it ought to be one of the Bulwarks of Christendom as being capable of putting a stop to the Incursions of the Turks in case by misfortune they shou'd ever penetrate so far The Arch-Bishop was so obliging to me and my Company as to give Orders that it shou'd be shewn to us and I saw the place of his Residence the stateliness of which is conformable to the Account of it I had before receiv'd as to its Ornaments Beauty number of Appartments c. 't is not inferiour to any Palace in the World However I shall leave the description of it to others in regard I am accustom'd only to behold such sorts of Objects with admiration and complacency my chief delight being conversant about Historical Rarities but except some few Statues that were set there for State and Magnificence rather than out of Curiosity I cou'd not find any thing of that nature Moreover that which encreas'd my admiration is that the Prince the present Arch-Bishop is a very Learned and Eloquent Person endu'd also with a profound Judgment as I plainly perceiv'd in the Conference with which he was pleas'd to Honour me In acquainting me that he had no ancient Medals he express'd the esteem that he had for 'em and shew'd me at the same time several Books that were writ by me on that Subject and which he had sent for out of his Library It wou'd be a kind of good Fortune to Curiosity if so sublime a Genius and so Noble a Lord as this Arch-bishop wou'd vouchsafe to set apart some time for these Studies nay I durst even presume to affirm that His Highness wou'd reap no small advantage from such a disposition of Mind How great are the Cares of Government and with how many wearisome Hours is it attended You are not ignorant of it my Lord Alexander the Great endur'd these fatigues and Julius Caesar was not exempted from 'em so that Your most serene Highness and the Arch-Bishop of Saltzburg are only free from such anxious Distractions A Cabinet of Medals a little application to the viewing of so many Hero's which they represent a word of Commendation for the Vertuous Princes a grain of Salt let fall upon the Tyrants and admiration for all might serve in my Opinion as a Restorative for a sublime Mind too much taken up and tir'd with the administration of secular Affairs This wou'd be the most delectable Nepenthes and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 at least to my Palate Shall I take the liberty to declare to Your Highness what is a farther cause of my admiration in this respect It is upon account that those Persons who seem to be best able to bear the charge that is necessary for the making of such Collections are least of all inclin'd to do it The Ecclesiastical Princes with whom I convers'd in Germany are not much addicted to Curiosity at least to that of Medals I met with nothing remarkable at Mentz altho' the Elector lately Deceas'd was endu'd with all the excellent Qualities that can be imagin'd but perhaps he was not acquainted with these kinds of Delights The Grand Master of the Teutonick Order at present Vice-Roy of Hungary is Magnificent in every thing for 't is apparent from the vast Expences which he lays out in furnishing his Table in Hunting and other noble Divertisements that 't is not the effect of Frugality that he has no Medals and yet he is not supply'd with any He told me himself at Mergentheim where I went on purpose to wait upon His Highness that if those Princes cou'd be perswaded to set a-part a hundred or two hundred Pistoles for that use which is a very inconsiderable Summ with respect to their Revenues besides the benefit which they themselves might reap from thence it would turn very much to the advantage of Posterity and the Republick of Learning By this means their Cabinets wou'd be daily enrich'd with new Supplies and many rare Pieces wou'd be easily preserv'd which are often melted down by the Goldsmiths for want of Buyers witness that half of a Golden Medal which remains in our Possession with the Portraiture of Pescennius Niger Those Princes that delight in such Curiosities wou'd take a very good course in my Mind to enjoyn the Goldsmiths in their respective Dominions to give notice to the Magistrates of every Town of all the occasions they shall have both of buying and selling Medals of Gold Silver and Copper Besides that by that means all opportunities of stealing 'em might be taken away it wou'd tend very much to the Princes advantage without doing Injury to any Person whatever The Goldsmiths usually buy 'em by weighr according to the value of the Metal and for a small profit that might be allow'd to these Artificers they wou'd be engag'd to melt none down It is true indeed that for a greater precaution it wou'd be requisite to impose a Fine upon those that shou'd presume to act contrary to the Royal Mandate in melting down any without a Licence or that shou'd neglect to give timely notice of it to the Magistrate or some other Person authoriz'd by the Prince to exercise that Imployment in every City or Town This Order in my Opinion wou'd take great effect in the principal Towns especially those that are situated upon a Road or publick Highway Therefore it were to be wish'd that the Arch-Bishop of Saltzburg were inform'd of this Project and that he wou'd vouchsafe to put it in execution neither do I doubt but that in process of time it wou'd evidently appear that I have no less zeal for his Service than affection and respect for his Person After having spent eight Days at Saltzburg I determin'd to set forward from thence to Tirol but in the middle of the Alps two Soldiers shew'd me an Order they had receiv'd to prohibit all manner of Passengers from entring that Country without obtaining a Pass from the Emperour However my Equipage gave 'em no occasion of suspicion in regard that I rode Post in a Chariot accompany'd only with a Friend on Horseback but perhaps the Character of my Nation made 'em stand it out more obstinately and the respect that I ow'd to their Master oblig'd me to return I