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ID	Title	Author	Corrected Date of Publication (TCP Date of Publication)	STC	Words	Pages
A30215	A relation of a journey of the Right Honourable My Lord Henry Howard from London to Vienna, and thence to Constantinople, in the company of His Excellency Count Lesley, Knight of the order of the Golden Fleece, councellour of state to His Imperial Majesty, &c. and extraordinary ambassadour from Leopoldus Emperour of Germany to the Grand Signior, Sultan Mahomet ... / written by John Banbury ...	Burbury, John.; Norfolk, Henry Howard, Duke of, 1628-1684.	1671 (1671)	Wing B5611; ESTC R8283	51,231	261

A RELATION OF A JOURNEY OF THE Right Honourable My Lord HENRY HOWARD From London to Vienna and thence to Constantinople In the Company of his Excellency Count Lesley Knight of the Order of the Golden Fleece Councellour of State to his Imperial Majesty c. And Extraordinary Ambassadour from Leopoldus Emperour of Germany to the Grand Signior Sulton Mahomet Hau the Fourth Written by John Burbury Gent. London Printed for T. Collins and I. Ford at the Middle-Temple gate and S. Hickman at the Rose in St. Pauls Church yard 1671. TO THE Honourable HENRY HOWARD Eldest Son of the Right Honourable MY LORD HENRY HOWARD SIR PIctures which relate to a Family are usually exposed in Galleries that the Heir by looking on them may not only see the Features but read too the Vertues and generous Exploits of his truly Noble Ancestors This Picture of my Lord your Fathers Journey into Turky whom you have so lively coppi'd in your early Travels abroad I humbly present at your Feet being sure it will have a choice place in the Gallery of your Mind since the Original it self which extracts admiration from all will doubtless as highly deserve of Posterity as any of your greatest Progenitours Here without the Wind of Adulation I might tow down the Stream of my Lord your Fathers Qualities and excellent Endowments but remembring that you two only differ in time I shall but say this least I seem to flatter you that you are most happy in your Father and your Father as happy in you May your Happiness like the Danube which in its long passage through Tyrole Bavaria Austria and Hungary receives thirty Navigable Rivers e're it falls into the Sea increase all along in the course of your Life till it come to be as great as to your Noble Self and your Family the devotion is of SIR Your most humble and most obedient faithful Servant John Burbury A RELATION OF A JOURNEY OF THE Right Honourable My Lord HENRY HOWARD From London to Vienna and Constantinople ON Tuesday the twenty one of February 1664. about one of the Clock in the Morning the Right Honourable my Lord Henry Howard and his Noble Brother Mr. Edward Howard together with their Retinue set forward towards Constantinople and that night arrived at Dover The invitation to this Journey besides the curiosity of seeing that Eastern part of the World had its rise and beginning from the Emperour of Germany his sending an Extraordinary Ambassadour to the Grand Signior in order to the setling establishment of that Peace which not long before on each side the Ministers of State had agreed on and concluded Besides Count Lesley the Person design'd for Ambassadour was so very well known to my Lord of happy memory Thomas Earl of Arundel and Surrey while his Lordship was Ambassadour in Germany that as long as my said Lord of Arundel liv'd Letters of Correspondence past weekly between them His Grand-son could not therefore have a fairer pretence to accompany Count Lesley nor in reason doubt the least of a favourable reception which his Lordship alwayes found in the greatest measure possible But to return to Dover on Wednesday the twenty two my Lord with his Brother aforesaid took shipping for Calice sending part of his Train with the baggage to Dunkirk where on the twenty three his Lordship met the rest of his Retinue That day we went together to Bruges the following to Gant and the twenty five arrived at Bruxels where we staid but two dayes in which little time to relate the many Visits his Lordship received from Persons of the greatest Condition as the Prince of Ligne the Dukes of Arscott and Avry c. would equally weary the Reader as they did my Noble Lord who scarce in the mornings had time to make him ready and was forc'd to give out he was often gone abroad to decline that respect which though due to his Lordships great quality was unseasonable then since my Lord had many things to do in that place where his stay was so short I should likewise acquaint the Reader how nobly and civilly my Lord was received by Marquis Castle Roderigo the then Governour of that Countrey but being to leave Bruxels I must post away to Wavre a double Post thence and the place of our abode for that night The next day we passed through Gibloix Namur Vive l' aigneau Entim and lay at Hoyne which are all single Posts and here began our lodging on Straw which we were so familiar with afterwards The first of March we posted to Lignier through Grand-Champ Flamizoule Michamp and quarter'd at Asselborne the first four being single and the last a double Post. Thence we passed to Artsfelt next to Bickendorf and afterwards to Binsfelt all double Posts Here we rested if we could take any rest in a lodging where there was not the least accomodation for repose But what could we expect in so wild a Country abounding with nothing but Hills Dales and Woods where we scarce met the face of a man and for those of the feminine Sex they well might be compared to bug-bears which made me think of often and as often remember my Countrey-women whom though I did alwayes highly value yet now I cannot estimate enough As for our Horses some of them were constantly taken from the Plough and wearied with labour beforehand so as 't is no wonder we had so many falls But one that had not plowed that day and so was more lusty and gamesome got loose by an accident and ran to the next Stage before us so as two of our Company to help one another were forc'd to ride by turns and by turns to go a foot And to mend the matter our Guide in the night though the Moon was very clear like an Ignis fatuus misled us up and down he could not tell whither for which being rated severely he was for a while so abominably unsavoury there was no going near him But at last by good fortune we lighted on a Village where the Peasants were so rude or so fearful at least hearing so many Horsemen that we could not extract a word from them they putting out their Candles and lying like Coneys in their Burroughs till partly by threats and partly by good words I got in amongst them and perswaded two of them to shew us the way to the neighbouring Posthouse which at last taking heart they ventur'd upon but when we got thither and they found with what kindness we us'd them they repented themselves they had been so inhospitable to us There we met with a Lutheran Parson as full of Wine as Fat whose Latine came from him in clusters which shew'd he had doubled his Glasses Thence we posted to Lizer where we passed the Moselle and because we were forced to stay there for Horses which were fetcht out of the fields from their work we din'd at that place and had excellent Wine which is all I can commend

besides the talking Host who was a jolly fellow and fill'd it with a grace and drank it off as well This our stay there retarded us so much we could only arrive at Laufferswiler that night two double Posts from Binsfelt But of all the Postilion we had I must needs tell the Reader of one who formally appearing in his Ruffe his Cloak and highsteepl'd Hat no sooner got up on his Horse which was skittish and had a Trunk behind him but the Horse not enduring the ratling and weight of the Trunk fell a kicking and dancing in that manner that down went the Steeple and the Cloak Ruffe and man had followed after but that relief ran in and his Wife cry'd to him If you have not Hans a care that Horse will throw you to the Devil But Hans boldly venturing again sate very demurely and gingerly while we could do no less than follow after and laugh to see in what posture he sate and how often his Hat was toss'd into the air and his gravity disordered From Laufferswisel we passed through to Eckerswiler to Walstein two double Posts thence where because we could not find fresh Horses enough his Lordship thought it good to separate his Company he himself making choice of the Road to Rhinshowsen and ordering his Brother with the rest of the Retinue to pass the Rhyne at Mentz and meet all together at Ratisbone From Walstein therefore my Lord rode to Hanguisen which was a Post off and lodged at a Village called Boveren half a mile beyond Worms On the fifth his Lordship posted through Frankendale to Mowda thence to Spire and so to Rhinshowsen where he crossed the Rhyne The next place was Proussell then Nitling where there is a good Inn. Ensfinde Canstat and Eberspoch succeeded then Alderstat and Westerstet Elskinger Lowen and Donawert follow'd after and usher'd in Newburgh where my Lord lay that night and stay'd the next day The ninth his Lordship hired a Boat down the Danube to Ratisbone intending his arrival there that night but failing an hour he lay three leagues short and only got thither the next day at noon Having brought my Lord to Ratisbone and left him well there give me leave to post back again to Walstein to conduct his noble Brother to that place We that were to road it through Franckford departed from Walstein the fourth and lay that night at Mentz a double Post off The City is built near the Rhyne and the Seat of an Arch-Bishop and one of the Electors of Germany Here we hir'd a Post-chariot and passing the Rhyne over a Bridge of Boats for which we paid tole arrived at Franckford a great and goodly City renowned for the Mart and a double Post from Mentz From Frankford we chariotted it again to the City of Hanow which admits of no Inhabitants but those of the Calvinist Religion The place is strong and neat but of a short continuance being built but some fourscore years since and is a single Post from Franckford aforesaid At Hanow we found another Chariot which carried us to Tetting a single Post thence where we lodged that night The sixth we past Bessenback a Post and a half whence to Esselback which is a double Post we met with a Chariot and six Horses all the rest having only had three or four at the most But here we had three men to attend us one riding Postilion another on a Horse next the Chariot and the last running afoot who changed by turns with the Postilion and one thing I observed when the Horses were weary all the three men would be sure to get up In this manner we passed the Spessaert a vast and thick Wood full of overgrown Oaks and belonging to the Elector of Mentz From Esselback we crossed the River of Main and lodged at Raulinghen a single Post thence Wirtzburgh we posted to next where we past the Main again and on the right hand saw a regular Fortress and House appertaining to the Elector of Mentz aforesaid This as Kitzinghem Posthenhem Launghenfelt and Emskerken where we lodged that night are all single Posts But before I go farther give me leave to look back and tell the gentle Reader that my Lord in his passage to Newburgh saw a certain race of men which fasten so their Breeches to their Doublets with Points that as others use to put down their Breeches they pull off their Doublets to do the necessities of Nature Fornback presented next it self a single Post from Norimberg a City of excellent Houses and as excellently furnished whose Town-Hall is an admirable Structure Thence we passed to Faicht Postbaw and Finingen all single Posts where we took up our quarters The ninth we rode through Postberge and Labour and at noon arriv'd at Ratisbone all single Posts where we met not with my Lord till the following day for his Lordship went about and out of the Post-road to this place Having viewed the City which is famous for little but the Dyet kept there on the one and twentieth for now I must observe the stile of the Countrey for fear of mistakes we hired a Boat for Vienna and that night got to Strawbing The next day we arrived at Vilshoven this Town with the other appertaining to the Duke of Bavaria Here the Servant attending at Supper being asked his name said nothing but ran out of the Room as if he had recourse to his Godfather to enquire what it was so dull and heavy are some of the ordinary people The three and twentieth we lay at Odensham a Town of the Emperours where Otho was born Here the Canopies of the Beds were so low we could not sit upright and the Beds plac'd so near one another as no passing between but side-long and with difficulty The Beds too and Coverings are alike being all soft Feather-beds to stew in betwixt but that for a remedy the head is made so high and the feet lye so low that while your face is in the air your legs are on the ground Their Napkins are likewise extravagant and no bigger than Childrens Pinners or at best but Pocket-handkerchiefs In one of the Stews above stairs you have commonly but one Bed but the other is hospital-wise and hath usually six or seven and to mend the matter a necessary House which needs no Directour to finde it A little before we came to St. Nicholas some seven Leagues from Lince an Imperial Town the Boat-men desir'd us to sit still and we had indeed great reason so to do for there between the Rocks the Danube is contracted in that manner that it runs most impetuously and the water whirles about so in several places as if through some Tunnel it emptied it self into a Gulph and the Watermen assur'd us that part of the Danube ran there under ground disburthening it self afterwards in Hungary where it made a great Lake and this was confirmed they said by sinking a great Pole with a proportionable weight fastened to it which

was afterwards found again in the Lake aforesaid In our passage to Melke where we lodged that night we toucht several times on the ground and twice were constrain'd to disingage our selves by labouring hard at the Oars and one time were so fast that we were in some hazard of staying all the night on the water The five and twentieth we lay at Tulne and the next day arrived at Vienna the Capital City of Austria and Residence of the Emperours of Germany and during our Journey from the time we departed from London till two dayes after our arrival at Vienna aforesaid being three weeks and four dayes we had not any Rain That day we repaired to the Golden-Hart a great and goodly Inn where my Lord lodg'd that night but the next day Count Lesley having not leisure to come himself for he was to be present at the Emperours Councel sent his Nephew my Lord Hay to complement his Lordship and carry him to his House where Count Lesley highly welcom'd my Lord and after many Ceremonies and great demonstrations of kindness and respect carryed his Lordship and his Brother to the House of the Earl of Trawne who is the Land Marshal where they had a noble Dinner The eight and twentieth my Lord din'd with Count Lesley who by means of my Lord Hay provided his Lordship of Lodgings near his House and the next day with Count Dietrichstien the Emperours Master of his Horse The same day my Lord waited on the Emperour to the Convent of the Capucines where his Imperial Majesty din'd the Princes and Lords of the greatest condition as the custom is there waiting on his Majesty and walking afoot before his Coach The thirtieth my Lord waited again on the Emperour who dined that day with his Mother in Law the Empress where his Lordship staying till his Imperial Majesty had drunk his first draught a Ceremony observed by Ambassadours themselves retired and din'd with Count Lesley attending after dinner on the Emperour the Empress and Princesses to a Park about a mile from Vienna where his Majesties Huntsmen inclosing some four acres of ground with Canvas extended by Poles above a mans height and a little way farther with Canvas aforesaid making a lane a breast high by letting fall the Canvas towards the East with Beagles hunted in at a time some eight or ten Foxes which coursed up and down were by several Gentlemen who had Nets in their hands for that purpose of a foot and half wide and between three and four yards long toss'd up into the air as it were in several Blankets as they ran up and down seeking places to escape In this manner and with Dogs and Sticks they sacrific'd seventy Foxes to the Emperours pleasure and afterwards baited and killed six Badgers The one and thirtieth my Lord din'd with the Earl of Staremberg the Marshal of the Court and waited after dinner on the Emperour who that day went afoot to a Church about a mile from Vienna where a Sepulchre in imitation of that of our Saviours at Jerusalem is annually visited and his Majesty kneel'd and pray'd by the way at five several stations The first of April his Lordship din'd with Count Lesley where he constantly din'd unless he was invited to any other place for still about noon Count Lesley aforesaid sent his Coach for my Lord to oblige him with with his Company at Dinner The second of the month the Emperour and his Nobility receiv'd the blessed Sacrament and his Majesty wash'd and kiss'd the feet o● twelve men the youngest o● which was seventy years old and the eldest one hundred and four and among them all they made up the age of nine hundred and eighty seven years to every one of whom he gave a Sute of black Cloath a pair of Shooes and Stockings and a Purse with some Money At dinner they had each three Courses of Fish and four Dishes at each Course his Imperial Majesty waiting upon them and when dinner was done the youngest made a Speech to the Emperour very gratefully acknowledging the honours they had received That day our Saviours Passion was represented in Italian in Musick in the Church near the Court and on the third at the Jesuites where the Emperour was present and his Majesty heard five several Sermons that day The fourth the Emperour visited afoot the Churches and Sepulchres in number thirty seven at three of which the Passion of our Saviour was exhibited in Musick On Easter day his Imperial Majesty din'd publickly as he usually doth four times in the year and at the first Course only cold and blessed Meats are served in The tenth my Lord with his Brother and several other Persons of Quality accompanyed Count Lesley to the Jesuits Colledge where they had a noble Dinner The eleventh his Lordship din'd with Count Roddols The fourteenth at Earl Koningsecks who was formerly Ambassadour in England And the fifteenth at the Count de Nosticks The eighteenth his Lordship saw the Emperour ride the great Horse and fourscore Colts backt by the Riders as also his Majesties Stables where there were many brave and goodly Horses to the number of one hundred and twelve The nineteenth my Lord din'd at Prince Portia's and the twentieth at Count Altemms The two and twentieth the Emperour as he uses every year retir'd to his Castle of Lauxembourgh to fly at the Heron. The eight and twentieth his Lordship din'd with Count Wallestein and the following day with Count Montecuculo The second of May with Marquis Pio and the third with the Marquis of Baden But now the Ambassadour together with his Comrades and their Retinue being pompously and nobly apparelled after the Turkish fashion in Cloaths of Gold and Silver on the sixth of May in a very solemn manner rode along through the Streets to the Emperours Palace the Windows of which were throng'd with the Spectators of this sumptuous Cavalcade which was in this order First Two Grooms of the Emperours Secondly The Quartermaster Thirdly Two Coriers Fourthly The Gentleman of the Horse Fifthly Eight led Horses with noble and most rich Trappings and Furniture Sixthly Twelve Pages riding two and two together Seventhly Eight Trumpeters riding four and four abreast and a Kettle-drum in the middle Eighthly The Ambassadours Steward alone at the head of his Squadron Ninthly His Excellencies own Colours carried by one of his Gentlemen between his Physitian and Secretary and followed by the rest of his Gentlemen and others belonging to the Comrades of his Excellency in number thirty and one Tenthly Twelve Footmen Eleventhly The Secretary of the Embassy and Interpreter of his Imperial Majesty Twelfthly The Ambassadour with four and twenty Halbardiers twelve of which preceded and the like number followed him Thirteenthly The Cavaliers the Comrades of his Excellency and the Emperours Colours of Cloth of Silver embroidered and carried by Count Sterhaimb whose names here ensue First Count Herberstein Secondly My Lord Henry Howard Thirdly The Duke of Holstein incognito

full of Meat the first being ever of tender roasted Mutton or the like cut all in joynts and bits which often on great Dayes and Feasts is smoaked with Perfumes e're it comes to the Table The boyl'd Meats are also so tender as with ease they may be pulled in pieces since Knives are never used at Meals Many Soops of Milks and Spoon-meats are served in afterwards which with long Wooden-spoons or Ovalladles rather they reach Brown Bread is cut before-hand and in long Slices thrown on the Table both to eat and serve for Trenchers on which they gave and put away their Bones as they pleased or flung them on the Table as the Turks us'd to do and fresh Bread was as frequently given as demanded though the Turks eat commonly their Trenchers Sherbetts are also given as oft as called for and not as some write only once at the end of the Dinner which being now over 't is fit I should rise and be gone On the seven and twentieth of August very early in the morning we departed from Adrianople and passing the River Hebrus over a great and long Bridge march'd by the Turkish Camp the Trumpets all sounding and the Kettle-drum beating by his Excellencies command About noon we arrived a Hapsa and the next day a Baba a pretty little Town The next place was Borgas and afterwards Caristeran near which in a Campagnia by a fine little Stream we took up our Quarters On the last of the Month we came to Chiurlu and the first of September to Simenly a very poor Village The next day betimes we got to Selivrea call'd formerly Selymbria or the City of Selys for Eria in the old Thracian Language doth signifie a City other Cities of Thrace having the like termination as Olymbria and Mesembria The Town is very pleasant being seated on a Hill ●nd by the Sea-side where usually when the Wind is propitious Boats are hired ●or Constantinople From hence we remov'd to Ponte grande where we passed four stone-bridges with●n a little distance of each other which crossed an arm of the Sea Ponte Picciolo received us ●ext where we met with fresh occasions of joy for ●ere the long-look'd for Rodolphus the Courier from Vienna overtook us and brought welcome Letters out of Christendom Our last Station but one was within two hours journey of Constantinople where we staid two dayes in Tents while all things were prepar'd for our advance to that City in order to which the same day we removed my Lord of Winchelsea his Majesties then Ambassadour sent his Secretary and Train together with the English Merchants to complement and accompany his Excellency whose entrance into Constantinople was pompous and solemn and with all the usual Ceremonies of greatness My Lord though he had a fair Quarter assign'd him near his Excellency yet invited before to my Lord of Winchelseas House directly went thither with his Brother and Retinue and was very nobly receiv'd and entertain'd I who for a while had been sick even to death in the Journey soon found my recovery there by my noble Lord of Winchelseas favour and my Ladies greatest charity and goodness whose incomparable Vertues surpassing all expression I can only with gratitude commemorate and with silence admire Byzantium the ancient name of the City was reputed little bigger than the Serraglio is now The principal Trade for fishing especially for Tunny which in very great quantities the Bosphorus yielded yearly and o're against the point of the Serraglio which was call'd the Golden Horn from the gains of the Fishermen vast numbers were taken being driven and frighted thither from the Chalcedonian shore by a white Stone appearing in the bottom of the shallow and transparent Water Constantine the Great and first Christian Emperour enlarging and beautifying it with very fair Buildings and walling it round establish'd there his Seat and nam'd it New Rome but after his death his Successor in honour of his memory and name caus'd it to be called Constantinople It hath since been the Seat of the Emperours of the East but not without great changes of Fortune for instead of Christian Emperours 't is under the Power and Domination of a Mahometan Prince Mahomet the Second having taken it by assault and sacrific'd it to the fury of his Souldiers This great disaster to Christendom arriv'd in the year of our Lord one thousand four hundred fifty three on the nine and twentieth of May and the second day of Whitsuntide the Feast of the Holy Ghost against whom the Greeks so often had sinn'd God punishing them that day with the loss of their capital City to shew them the enormity of their sin This City by its apt and advantagious scituation may seem to be built to command all the World for 't is in the extremity of Europe and separated only from Asia by an Arm of the Sea some half a League broad The Haven is so deep and so safe that Ships of the greatest burthen may ride near the Shore with the greatest security The City is in general ill built and the Streets very narrow so as in many places neither Chariots nor Waggons can pass There is only one fair Street and that is but indifferently large which traverses the Town to the Adrianople-gate But the Moschees built by several Emperours are very noble Structures and all in imitation of Sancta Sophia which is the only Church preserved from ruine at the taking of Constantinople and which for the beauty of the Edifice the Turks were contented to profane by converting it into a Mosque This Church was built by Justinian the Emperour who for the building of it imploy'd the Revenue of Egypt which continu'd seventeen years and when he had finish'd it and saw the beauty of it he bragg'd he had surpassed King Solomon in the structure of his Temple Near it he erected a very fair Monastery where the Serraglio is now and endowed it with a Revenue of eight hundred thousand Crowns maintaining nine hundred Priests there for the service of the Temple Near Sancta Sophia the Serraglio divided from the City by a Wall and wash'd on two sides by the Sea contains three miles in circuit which the goodly Groves of Cypresses considered the Gardens and Fountains with the Plains and other Objects of delight is a place of variety of pleasure I speak very sparingly of the Serraglio because several others have said enough of it and more than is usually discover'd to Strangers In the great Piazza which the Greeks call'd the Hippodrome and the Emperours design'd for the Races of Horses we saw two antick Pyramids three brazen Serpents so wreathed and twined together that nothing is free but the Head Near the end of the Town towards the North the ruines of the ancient Palace of Constantine remain where so many Christian Emperours had formerly their residence and near the said ruines is the Church and Habitation of the Patriarch of Constantinople There are several great places in