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A56585 Travels thro' Germany, Bohemia, Swisserland, Holland, and other parts of Europe describing the most considerable citys and the palaces of princes : together with historical relations and critical observations upon ancient medals and inscriptions / by Charles Patin ; made English and illustrated with copper cuts and a map. Patin, Charles, 1633-1693. 1696 (1696) Wing P721; ESTC R25578 112,677 496

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adorn'd with all the Embellishments of Painting I cou'd never look upon it without making very pathetical Reflections upon our Mortality It is expos'd to publick view and to make it as it seems yet more publick the whole Design was engrav'd on Copper-prints in the preceeding Age by a very able Master And indeed this little Book is not unworthy of a Place in a fine Library If I were oblig'd to stay till I had taken a full view of all the Rarities in this City I shou'd never leave it yet there is one notable Circumstance of which I cannot but take some notice In the Arsenal are to be seen the Spoils of Charles Duke of Burgundy I mean that great Prince My Lord whose memorable Exploits fill up the whole History of that Age but the Switzers made it appear that he was not invincible and that 't is very dangerous at the same time to make an attempt upon Justice and Liberty of which Truth Morat and Nancy will be everlasting Proofs In the Neighbourhood of Basil one may observe a thousand Remarkable Things that depend on the Situation and Nature of the Place The natural Landskip of the Country thereabouts is a most delightful object and even the Prospect of Basil along the River which runs thro' the two Towns is admirable Is not that part of the Rhine where the Salmons go up again from the Sea to propagate their kind in like manner very considerable The Season of their arrival is precisely known as also the time of their abode and that of their departure The Fisher-men are ready to take an advantage from this opportunity and are never deceiv'd The Golden Sands which are found in some parts of the adjacent Country sufficiently shew that there are some Mines of Gold and I cou'd wish that they were already discover'd by such Persons as deserve to be fortunate At my return from Basil I saw BRISACH One of the Strongest Holds in the World none can be ignorant of the Conquest of those Parts made by Bernard Duke of Weimar who deliver'd up the Town to the French which was also granted to 'em in the Treaty of Munster I saw the little Village where he dy'd between Basil and Brisach This wou'd be a proper place to make mention of Strasburg but I shall referr the matter to another opportunity since this Famous City deserves a more particular Description In passing down the Rhine we come to PHILIPSBVRG Philippopolis and Vdenheim are the Names by which 't is known in the Latin and German Writings It has been noted for its Sieges during the last Wars of Germany but now thanks be to God all those commotions are allay'd The General Treaty of Peace has left this Place to its old Master the Bishop of Spier under the Garrison of the King of France that is to say the Town belongs to that Prelate and the Fort to his Most Christian Majesty or rather the Bishop is the Lord of it and the King the Master About four hours Journey from thence to the right stands HEIDELBERG This City notwithstanding its meanness is beautify'd with all manner of Ornaments The Necker which washes its Walls supplies it with very wholsom Water abundance of Fish and the most pleasant Walks in the World But that which renders it most delectable and enhances its Reputation is the generous Wine that bears its Name and which is drunk in all the parts of Europe where there are any noble Entertainments The University was heretofore one of the most Famous in Christendom and still retains its whole Merit but is somewhat depopulated thro' the malignity of the Times For that Country has been oppress'd with War above 30 years and stood in need for its restauration of a Government as prudent and as exact as that of a Prince who now constitutes the sole happiness of his Subjects The differences between him and the Duke of Lorrain have for a while interrupted his Design of restoring this Place to its ancient splendour but 't is probable that Heaven will prosper his Undertakings and good Intentions The Alliance which is at present negotiating between his Noble Stock and the Royal Family of France is a sufficient Testimony of the Esteem that he has gain'd in that Court England Sweden and Denmark maintain a very considerable Correspondence with him and even a greater than with the other Princes of the Empire The Marriage of the Electoral Prince with the Princess of Denmark is an Illustrious proof of what I have just now declar'd but his Highness's presence is capable of affording more Noble Idea's Indeed every thing that is sublime serves only to consummate his Character that is to say Magnificence Generosity Magnanimity Solidity of Judgment and that profound Wisdom which appears in all the particulars of his Conduct As for the Electoral Prince His Son none of these excellent Endowments are wanting in him which promise to represent to us one day in His Person all those rare Qualities which we so much admire in that of the Elector His Father Perhaps I might have left Heidelberg without making any mention to Your Highness of the Great-Tun if the ingenious M. Polier had not admonish'd me that it ought not to be forgot I confess that Advice seems to tend somewhat to debauchery yet it proceeds from a very sober Person whose moderation is every where well known but he is sensible that Prodigies deserve to have a place among Curiosities This huge Tun My Lord is as Famous as the Rhodian Colossus was heretofore which had no greater a quantity of Water between its Leggs than this contains of Wine within its Cavity I am apt to believe that the product of a whole Vintage might be stow'd in it and its compass and thickness is so great that 't is requisite to undertake a Journey to View it all over For it is twenty one Foot high thirty one long and sufficiently capacious to hold two hundred and twenty ordinary Tuns of Wine Thus this prodigious Vessel bears its own Ocean and such a one as has its ebbing and flowing Tides 't is also very dangerous to sail upon it and a Navigator is no sooner come near it but he immediately loses his Compass Storms frequently arise there without any boistrous Winds or foul Weather and the Understanding suffers Shipwrack even in the very Harbour In a word this is that Pacifick Sea which involves the whole World in a Hurricane without disturbing its own Tranquillity In following the course of the Necker one may arrive at MANHEIM It wou'd be difficult for me to forget its Situation for besides that I have often taken particular notice of it 't is also represented upon that Medal with which his Electoral Highness Palatine has thought fit to honour me where it appears that this Fort serves as a Defence to the Rhine and Necker both which Rivers are cover'd and secur'd by it At my return I saw the residue of that Magnificent Entertainment which
very Ingenious Epigram was Compos'd Ingens ingentem quem personat Orbis Erasmum Hic tibi dimidium picta Tabella refert At cur non totum mirari desine Lector Integra nam totum Terra nec ipsa capit This Repository belongs to the University of Basil by vertue of a Donation made by the Magistrates of the City who had purchas'd it with the summ of a thousand Crowns of the Heirs of Amerbachius the Legatee of Erasmus whose last Will and Testament is as yet preserv'd written with his own Hand There is also in the great Church a Sumptuous piece of Marble wrought according to the Rules of Architecture which confirms this Account by its Inscription The Medal of Erasmus to be seen there seems to have taken its Type from the God Terminus who is represented on the front of that Inscription which was made on purpose to honour the Memory of this Great Man That which alone would be sufficient to procure the highest esteem for this Repository is a score of Holbein's Originals and among others that Picture of Christ Crucifi'd for which a thousand Ducats have been proffer'd Those that are ignorant of the admirable Skill of this Painter need only take a journey to Basil to be well assur'd of it There the Citizens would shew 'em in the Town-House a large Painting drawn by his Hand or rather eight several Paintings of one Piece which represent so many different Acts of the Passion 'T is in my mind one of the finest Pieces in the World And I do not admire that the Deceas'd Elector of Bavaria thought fit to offer to the City a quantity of Salt amounting to the value of twenty thousand Crowns for so choice a Rarity Give me leave My Lord to acquaint you with somewhat concerning this Holbein He was a Gallant Man but so extreamly necessitous that sometimes he had not wherewith to pay for his Dinner In another Painting of the same Repository are drawn the Portraitures of his Wife and Children whose Apparel argues that they were very little better supply'd with Necessaries In a word this Painting is a Treasure in Raggs All Travellers usually stop with delight at the corner of a narrow street in Basil where is to be seen a House Painted on the outside from the top to the bottom by Holbein's incomparable Hand Indeed even great Princes might take it as an Honour to have so Curious a piece of Workmanship in their possession nevertheless 't was only the payment which this poor Painter made for some Meals which he had there taken for it was a Victualing-House the situation of which as well as its meanness sufficiently shews that 't was none of the most noted Our Holbein was at last deliver'd out of this miserable condition by the Generosity of an Earl of Arundel from whom was descended that Illustrious English Nobleman whom Curiosity has as it were render'd immortal as well as the vast number of ancient Inscriptions and Marbles as yet to be seen in the Theatre at Oxford which he had sent for from the Levant and which were so Learnedly and fortunately explain'd by Mr. Selden This Book by the way is very scarce but if it be not in Your Highness's Library you need not be concern'd for 't is about to be Reprinted and I have been told that the new Edition will be much finer and larger than the former This Earl of Arundel as he was returning if I mistake not from an Embassy to Vienna brought over along with him Holbein and his whole Family and advanc'd his Fortune so far that Holbein himself cry'd out Is it possible that ever I shoud have been so indigent as to be forc'd to Paint to get a sorry livelyhood These are the effects of the discerning Judgment and generous Disposition of a Noble Lord without whose Favour perhaps Holbein might have spent his whole life in misery and alwaies lain hid in Obscurity Others affirm that he did not pass into England till a long while after with a Design to get some Preferment that he at first presented himself to Sir Thomas More with the Commendatory Letters of Erasmus and that he was entertain'd by him with all possible demonstrations of Kindness I have seen in the Emperor's Repository the Portraiture which he then made of this Famous Minister of State 'T is reported that not being able to call to mind the Name of the Ambassador who had promis'd him his Protection he hastily made a Draught according to the Idea which he had of his Lineaments and luckily hit upon the whole Air of his Countenance so that Sir Thomas immediately knew the Earl of Arundel thus he found at his fingers ends that which had escap'd his Memory Afterwards these two Illustrious Patrons made known his Merit to the World more especially at Court insomuch that King Henry VIII Honour'd him with his Esteem and Friendship and express'd himself in the most obliging Terms in his Favour to a certain Earl who had made a complaint of him I can at my pleasure said the King Create six Earls in in an Hour but I cannot make one Holbein I cou'd insist on many other particular circumstances but I shall only mention one here which will oblige us to resume the Discourse concerning Erasmus When Holbein saw his Book that bears the Title of Encomium Moriae or a Panegyrick upon Folly Printed by Frobenius in Quarto A. D. 1514. He drew in the Margin certain small Figures which are all hatch'd with a Pen and make eighty three Pictures they serve as it were for so many Illustrations of the Text and are so curiously design'd that Holbein's Energy might be discover'd even by this single piece of Work Upon the Margin of the Title of this Book he wrote these words Hanc MORIAM pictam decem diebus ut oblectaretur in eâ Erasmus habuit This Moria was Painted in ten daies to the end that Erasmus might be delighted with it Erasmus had a great affection for Holbein neither cou'd he forbear putting himself in a good humour at the sight of his Book which he found so well embellish'd and to add very pleasant Devices to some of these small Draughts I took particular notice of three which perhaps may afford some Diversion to Your most Serene Highness In pag. 53. The Text has it Ne videar Erasmi mei Commentaria suppilâsse Lest I shoud seem to play the Plagiary with the Works of my Erasmus Holbein places in the Margin Erasmus sitting and writing in a Book upon a Desk after the same manner as he was wont to paint him and even as he was represented by Albert Durer Erasmus seeing himself drawn in somewhat too good case wrote upon the Book which was adorn'd with the Figures ADAGIA ERAS and underneath Quum ad hunc locum perveniebat Erasmus se pictum sic videns exclamavit Ohe Ohe si Erasmus talis esset duceret profecto Vxorem When Erasmus came to this Place and saw