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A51007 A new voyage to Italy with a description of the chief towns, churches, tombs, libraries, palaces, statues, and antiquities of that country : together with useful instructions for those who shall travel thither / by Maximilian Mission ; done into English and adorned with figures.; Nouveau voyage d'Italie. English Misson, Maximilien, 1650?-1722. 1695 (1695) Wing M2253; ESTC R28829 405,658 759

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in tenebris solamen in lachrymis cura omnis in morte collocatur Quos vides separatim tumulos ob aeterni doloris argumentum in memoriam illorum sempiternam Anno M.D.XLVII Here is an instance of another afflicted Mother in the Chapel of the Family of Coppola in the Church of St. Aug. O Fata prepostera ô miserrimam pietatem Clarix Rynalda Tiberii Coppulae Jures-Consi camerae Regiae Praesidis Uxor amantissima sepultis turbato Ordine VII dulcissimis infantibus filiis post habito paterno tumulo simul cum iis sepeliri voluit Et materni Amoris officium quod viventibus maluisset saltem in communi sede cineribus paranda exiguum doloris ingentis solatium praestaret M. D.LXXXXI Over-against the great Church of the Carmelites in a place of the People there is a kind of Chapel which was built by order of Charles I. King of Naples in the same place where that Prince caused the Head of the unfortunate * He was not sent to the Holy Land because he was excommunicated Conradin to be cut off † And five or six Lords more and at the same time his Cousin Frederick's Marquiss of Baden and Duke of Austria This Tragedy is painted in Fresco on the Walls within the Chapel They have there also the Pillar of Porphyrie which was erected in the middle and round about this Distich is written Asturis ungue Leo pullum rapiens Aquilinum Hic deplumavit acephalumque dedit The Body was presently put into the little Chapel and afterwards removed into the Church of the Carmelites They shew'd us in the Convent of the Carmelites the place where the famous Rebel Thomas Aniello was killed Vulgarly called Massaniello eighteen Days after the Establishment of his Common-wealth I have a piece of the Money that was coined at Naples in the time of those Disorders with this Inscription S. P. Q. N. Senatus Pop. Que Neap. A just Comparison might be made between Massaniello and Cromwell there is only this difference that Cromwell was a Gentleman and Massaniello but a Fisherman Our Guide told us as we passed before the Church of St. Mary Major That the Devil appeared formerly in the shape of a Hog in the place where that Church was since built whicy so affrighted and drove away the Inhabitants of Naples that the City almost became desolate But that the Virgin answering the Vows of Pomponius then Bishop of Naples ordered him to build a Church for her in the place where they most frequently saw the infernal Hog which being done it never appeared afterwards They add That in memorial of this Event the Bishop caused a Hog of Brass to be made which is now kept in a part of the said Church You have not here all I intend to tell you concerning Naples But because we now write to London I thought fit to join this Letter to the Pacquet Do me the Honour to love me still and believe that I am SIR Yours c. At Naples Mar. 14. 1688. LETTER XXII SIR THE City of Naples hath been so many times ransacked and hath gone through the Hands of so many Masters that the greatest part of its Antiquities have been buried in their own Ruins The Front of St. Paul Major is the Frontispiece of the old Temple of Apollo was afterwards dedicated to Castor and Pollux by one Tiberius Julius Tarsus a Freed-Man of Augustus His Name is distinctly to be read on one of the Frieses of this Frontispiece 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 The Portico is supported by eight channelled Pillars of the Corinthian Order and on the Pediment are some Basso Relievo's which represent the Deities They say that the Columns of St. Restituta were taken from a Temple of Neptune There also remain some Ruins of an Amphitheatre We often took notice as we passed of an ancient Statue of the Nile supported by a Crocodile The House of D. Diomodes Caraffa is exceedingly full of Sculptures and ancient Inscriptions You may see in the Court the Head and all the Crest of a Horse of Brass which had no Bridle and which was sometimes in one of the Places of Naples as an Emblem of the Liberty of that City when it was governed as a Commonwealth But King Conrad caused a Bit to be put on this Horse as now appears and wrote as they say these two Verses on the Pedestal which supported it Hactenus effraenis Domini nunc paret habenis Rex Domat hunc aequus Parthenopensis equum There are also a great many old Ruins found on the Hill where as the Antiquaries say was 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 towards St. Cosmus and St. Damian And besides that several curious Persons as amongst others M. Richetti hath pick'd up divers Antiquities and particularly made Collections of Medals from some whereof great Light hath been drawn for the History of Naples I refer the speaking of the Catacombs to another time You know with what exactness and success Pope Sixtus V. extirpated the Banditti out of Rome and all the Ecclesiastical State But you also know that the other Princes of Italy had not the same good Fortune though all with common consent undertook the Work These Bands of Thieves were more numerous than ever in the Kingdom of Naples and some Years ago to travel securely they were forced to go in Caravans At present there is nothing to be fear'd the Marquiss del Carpio last Vice-Roy of Naples hath at last freed that Country from the Robberies and Murders of that wicked Gang Many of them have been put to the Sword and others executed There is a great number of them yet in Prison we saw five hundred of them in the Arsenal who surrendred themselves some Months since on condition their Lives should be saved and they not sent to the Galleys Futhermore if they have exterminated all the Banditti by Profession there are still remaining a great number of others who are little better To speak in general the People of Naples are a very wicked People the Prisons swarm with Malefactors and they affirmed to us that there are at present in two Prisons only about four thousand who deserve death They did not hit amiss who said That Naples is a Paradise inhabited with Devils The City is extreamly fine as I have already told you but there are many things which are not suitable to its Beauty and which cloud the pleasant Countenance it would otherwise have First you can see no Women in it it hath this fault in common with all the other Cities of Italy You must not think I am become too much a Gallant when I say this is to hide ridiculously the fairest half of the World Secondly the Habits and Equipages of Naples are of black and dark Colours which are apt to inspire Melancholy You are forbidden to wear Gold or Silver or Silk upon Silk The greatest Lord can have but two * Staffieri Footmen And the greatest part of the
after we had gone through Woods that were drowned by the overflowing of that River which made the ways both dangerous and difficult we found them very good between the End of this Wood and the City of Worms which is but two little Leagues WORMS an Imperial City This City is about three or four hundred Paces on the left side of the Rhine in an excellent Country and most pleasant Situation It is girt about with a double Wall without any Garrison or even Fortification that is worth Observation * Worms was formerly an Arch Bishoprick But Pope Zachary removed the See to Mentz to punish the Arch-bishop Gervillian who contrary to his Faith killed a Man whom he invited out of the Camp of the Saxons his Enemies to have a familiar conference with him Heiss This is a poor Bishoprick The Bishop hath a great Power there though it be a free and Imperial City It is near as large as Francfort but poor melancholy and ill peopled They shewed me a House that was lately sold for a thousand Crowns which had been Lett formerly for a thousand Crowns per Annum There are many void places in this City in which they have planted so many Vines that they yield every Year fifteen hundred Foudres of Wine the Fouder is a Cask which holds about two hundred and fifty English Gallons They highly prize this Wine and they have a Proverb That it is sweeter than the Virgins Milk The City presents it to Persons of Quality as they pass by as also Fish and Oats The Fish is to shew the Right of Fishing which they have on the Rhine but what the Oats signifie I know not it cannot be to represent their Territory because they have none The Lutherans have here a Church and besides that they preach by turns with the Roman Catholicks in that of the Dominicans the rest belong to the Roman Catholicks who carry not the Host publickly nor make any Procession except the Day after Easter The Protestants whom I will still call Calvinists to distinguish them from the Lutherans have their Church at Newhawsel in the Palatinate about half a League from the City the Lutherans are not shy sometimes to Christen their Children there which is directly opposite to the Practice of the Lutherans at Francfort They say that a Lord of the House of Alberg having brought a great many Jews from Palestine sold Thirty of them for a Piece of Silver at the City of Worms where they were for a long time treated as Slaves before they could obtain the Liberty which they at present enjoy in common with the other Inhabitants The Church of St. Paul seems to be an ancient Building but I believe that of St. John is the older This last is built with very great square Stones and its Figure is quite irregular The Walls are above twelve Foot thick the Windows are narrow and there are Galleries all round the outside of the Building just under the Roof There is but little Appearance that this was built for a Church the Cathedral is a long Structure of a considerable Height with a Tower at each of the four Corners the whole Building is very massive and embellished with Gothick Ornaments They shewed us a certain Animal over one of the Doors of this Church of which the People tell a hundred Stories This Animal is as big as an Ass and hath four Heads one Head of a Man one of an Oxe one of an Eagle and one of a Lion it lifts up the two first and hangs down the other two The right Foot before is a Man's the left an Oxe's the two hinder Feet are of an Eagle and a Lion and a Woman sits upon the Beast If I durst penetrate into this Mystery I think it might be conjectured that this Hieroglyphick is a Chimera composed of the four Animals in the Vision of Ezekiel and that the Woman represents the Gospel I took notice of a Picture over the Altar of one of the Chapels of this Church in which the Virgin is represented receiving Christ as he descends from the Cross while several Angels carry the Instruments of the Crucifixion to Heaven But either the Painter has forgot or else the Angels have since brought back all these Reliques There is another very curious Picture at the Entrance of the Church of St. Martin over a moveable Altar This Picture is about five Foot Square God the Father is on the Top of one Corner from whence he seems to speak to the Virgin Mary who is on her knees in the midst of the Picture she holds the little Infant Jesus by the Feet and puts his Head into the Hopper of a Mill the twelve Apostles turn the Mill by a Wheel with their Hands and they are assisted by these four Beasts of Ezekiel which we just spoke of who work on the other side Not far off the Pope kneels to receive the Hosts which fall from the Mill ready made into a Cup of Gold He presents one to a Cardinal the Cardinal gives it to a Bishop the Bishop to a Priest and the Priest to the People There are in the City two publick Houses one of which is called the Burgher's House in which the Senate assembles twice every Week about the Affairs of the State the other is for the Magistracy and is the Place where common Causes are pleaded It was in the first that Luther made his Appearance on an occasion known to all the World They tell us that this Doctor having spoke with much eagerness and being besides heated by the fire which was before him some body brought him a Glass of Wine which he receiv'd but such was his vehemence that he forgot to drink and without thinking of it set it on a Bench which was by his side they add that the Glass immediately after broke without any Person 's touching it and it passed for current that the Wine was poisoned I will make no Gloss upon this Story But afterwards the Bench on which he set the Glass was broken and some Pieces were taken out of it which some zealous Lutherans keep in memory of their Master We went also to see another House which they call the Mint in which among other things I observed a * These two Verses are written on the Top of the Leaf Mira fides pedibus Juvenis facit omnia recta Cui pariens mater brachia nulla dedit Leaf of Parchment in a square Frame upon which there are twelve sorts of Hands written very fairly with many Miniatures and Draughts boldly traced with a Pen. It was written by one Thomas Schuveiker who was born without Arms and perform'd this with his Feet They also shew another little round piece of Vellum about the bigness of a Guiney upon which the Lord's-Prayer without abbreviation is written But this is no extraordinary thing I know a * Maximin Mossileni Man who wrote the same Prayer six times in the same compass more
they make much of it as a precious Memorial if they do not worship it as a Relique Their Lance puts me in mind of their Arsenal which is one of the most renowned in Germany In the Year 1453 Mahomet II. besieged Constantinople and battered it with many Pieces of Cannon of Four hundred pound Ball there was one amongst the rest so heavy that there were twenty Yoke of Oxen to draw it Calvisius There are two great Halls in it each of two hundred and fifty paces long and well replenished with Arms. We counted three hundred Pieces of Cannon but to speak truth the greatest part of the other Arms savour of Antiquity Musquets and Harquebuses Casks and Cuirasses in great Number fine Hangings for Arsenals and this is all There are many of those great Cannons of a monstrous Bore which they call Mermaids and Basilisks and the biggest of these Pieces carries a three hundred pound Ball. We also saw the Library it is in a Cloyster which formerly belonged to the Dominicans and contains as they tell you twenty thousand Volumes This was collected out of the Ruines of many Convents in the Time of the Reformation The most ancient Manuscript is of nine hundred Years it is a Copy of the Gospels with the Prayers and Hymns formerly used in the Greek Church The Character is very different from that now in use It is a Treatise of Predestination I observed a Book which was printed at Spire in the Year 1446. but there might be an Errour in the Cyphers for they shewed us another of the Impression of Faustus at Mentz in 1459. at the End whereof there is an Advertisement by which it is said That this Book was not written by the Hand but was printed by an admirable Secret newly invented 'T is probable that this was the first Impression which was made at Mentz and if it be so there is no ground to suppose that another Book was printed at Spire thirteen Years before nor had Faustus any reason to boast so much of his new Secret I have heard that there is another Impression of Durandus's Officiale at Basil printed by Faustus in the same Year 1549. They keep in this Library many Rarities and curious Antiquities but they are not comparable to those that are in the Cabinet of Mr. Viati We saw it in a great Chamber quite fill'd with divers Arms of all Countries all Uses and all Fashions It is scarce to be conceived how a single Man and he a private Person who hath not the Means of a Prince or a very great Lord could heap together so many things for the Number is very great and I believe brought from all the four Quarters of the World He shewed us the Experiment of a Wind-Gun which is a very pretty but a most destructive Invention because with this Engine great Mischiefs may be done a far off and without any Noise From this Chamber you may go into another where there are rare Pictures Medals curious Works ancient and modern Idols Shells Plants Minerals and other natural Productions The Town-House is very great and has a very beautiful and well-proportion'd Front but it wants a Court before it When we went from thence our Friends brought us to the City Cellar which is two hundred and fifty Paces long and contains as they tell us Twenty thousand Aums of Wine that is to say Twenty thousand middle-siz'd Tuns We must allow it to be a very fair Cellar but the truth is such People as we know not how to enjoy all the Pleasures of it The Germans are you know Germanorum vivere bibere est strange Drinkers but there are no People in the World more obliging more civil or more officious and yet they have terrible Customs as to the Point of Drinking Every thing is done there by drinking and they drink in all they do There is not time given to speak three Words in a Visit but presently comes the Collation or at least some large Jacks of Wine with a Plate full of Crusts of Bread hash'd with Pepper and Salt a fatal Preparative for puny Topers But before we proceed I must give you an account of those sacred and inviolable Laws that are afterwards to be observ'd Every Draught must be a Health and assoon as you have emptied your Glass you must present it full to him whose Health you drunk You must never refuse the Glass which is presented and you must drink it off to the last drop Do but reflect a little on these Customs and see how it is possible to leave off drinking And indeed they never make an end * The Duke of Rohan sai h in his Voyage that the Germans have succeeded better than all the Mathematicians of the World in finding out the perpetual Motion by the continual Agitation of their Cups but carouse in a perpetual Round to drink in Germany is to drink eternally Pardon my Digression and judge of our troublesome Entertainment in the Cellar You must do penance there for some time and at last hide your self behind the Casks steal away and make your escape You must further know that the Glasses are as much respected in this Country as the Wine is beloved They place them all en Parade The greatest part of the Chambers are wainscotted even to two thirds of the Walls and the Glasses are ranged all about upon the Cornish of the Wainscot like Pipes of Organs They begin with the Little and end with the Great ones and these Great ones are always us'd and must be empty'd at a draught when there is any Health of Importance At going out of the Cellar we went to Consort where we hoped we should do nothing but sing but the Bread the Pepper the Salt and the Wine followed in such abundance that an Air was no sooner finished but the whole Company rose up to drink Divers Habits of the Women at Nuremberg Vol. 1. P. 73. The Husband was in Black Cloaths with a Cloak over-laid with Lace a great Ruff and a little Crown of Gold Plate-Lace above his Peruke But the Wife's Dress will be a little more difficult to describe The best Account I can give you of it is to tell you That in framing to your self an Idea of her Head-Tire you must fansie a Mixture of Plate-Wire gilded like a Bob-Peruke half a Foot higher than her Forehead and very much frizzed and swelled out on the Sides This was ordered after such a manner that in all the Thickness of this Bush there was no more space or distance between the Threads than was sufficient to fasten to them an infinite Number of little Plates of Gold round polished and shining which hung both within and without and waved with the least Motion Her Habit was Black with long Skirts resembling the Hongrelines which were not very long since used in France The Body of this little Cassock which was cut very short had a Gold Lace over all the Seams
but that alters not the Matter of Fact If you would have another somewhat like this and not so easie to be believed I will quote your Natural History of England where it is related that the Wild Geese fall dead when they fly directly over a certain place of the Plain of Withay in Yorkshire Furthermore I will here repeat what I have often said that let things appear to be never so improbable provided they imply no Contradiction they ought not hastily to be condemned for false without due examination It must be acknowledged that the Ignorance of Men conceals more things than their Knowledge could ever discover We may please our selves with acting the Philosophers and laugh at occult Qualities but the Phaenomena of Nature to speak sincerely are almost all incomprehensible We pretend to understand and to be able to explain the Abstrusest Appearances that happen before our own Eyes and would be ashamed to own our Ignorance But if we are told of any thing which surpasses our Understanding or we have not before heard of we immediately conclude it to be either a Miracle or a Lye Though the Word Avernus comes from 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as Virgil said there are so many Lakes which bear this Name that we may look upon it as a general Appellation for those Sulphurous Gulphs which the Ancients call the Gates or Throats of Hell Ostia Ditis Orci Janua Inferni Janua Regis as Virgil calls them I fansie one might say the same thing of another Lake not far from this which is one of the Acherons And it is apparent that this made Lucretius call these kinds of Pools Averna Loca Silius confounds our Averno with Styx and Cocytus and the other Rivers of Hell which may contribute to our believing that these Names became common to many Lakes or Rivers of the like Nature The Ruines which appear in many places on the side of the Hills about the Averno shew that this place was extremely well cultivated after they had cut down the Wood of tall Trees which surrounded it It is uncertain whether the Ruines which are next to the Lake are of a Temple of Mercury or of Neptune but Antiquaries agree that it was not of a Temple of Apollo as the Vulgar suppose I must not forget to tell you that when one comes near the Averno he is suddenly assaulted by a noisome Smell but am not sure that it proceeds from the Lake for its Waters are fresh and clear enough though they encline something to a dark Blue I tasted them in severa places and found they had a little sharp tang of the Mineral notwithstanding which the Lake abounds with Fish That which they commonly call the Grotto of the Sibyl is hard by The Grotto of the Sibyl The chief entrance as they say was near to Cumae about four Miles from Averno but it is all filled up on that side We went into the great Grotto by a narrow Passage pester'd with Briars and Thorns every one with a lighted Torch in his Hand The Cavern is dug under the Hillocks without Ornaments or any thing remarkable except the place I will presently describe to you It is about ten Foot broad and twelve high After you have gone about two hundred and fifty Paces without turning the Grotto hath a square place on the Right and seventy or eighty Paces farther you find a little Cell of fifteen Foot in length and eight or nine in breadth The Roof was formerly painted and the Walls covered with Mosaick of which there are still some Remainders The Earth being fallen some paces beyond the Chamber the Passage is dammed up and you can go no further I remember that after I had read the learned Treatise of Mr. Blondel concerning the pretended Sibyls and their supposed Sibylline Writings I easily freed my self from the power of vulgar Prejudices and was fully persuaded that all was chimerical and supposititious Whatsoever a considerable number of learned Men had formerly said or some of those honest Doctors of Antiquity whom we usually call Fathers I was afterwards confirmed in this Opinion by studying this Matter with a competent degree of Application and therefore you may easily think Some pretend that the Cave of the Sibyl was at Cumae and they cite the description Justin Martyr makes of it What he said has some relation to what Virgil speaks But at the bottom the opinion of Justin Martyr is no proof he tells you what he heard said which signifies nothing that I give little credit to what they talk here of this Sibyl's Grotto Many ancient Authors have spoken of a Sibylla Cumaea and of a Den to which she retired and People have imagin'd that this may agree with it and have consecrated it to her without any other reason than bare imagination and without alledging any tolerable Arguments The Passage of Virgil Excisum Euboicae c. signifies nothing at all For besides that in Virgil's time the Fable of the Sibyl was accounted an old Errour of which that Author spoke only by Tradition I cannot see that what he said hath any relation to this Cavern Quo lati ducunt aditus centum ostia centum Unde ruunt totidem voces c. There is no appearance that this Cave ever had centum aditus or centum ostia but why I pray must there be a Cave above a League in length for the lodging a Sibyl And what Workmen had she to employ in so prodigious a Task It is also ridiculous to think that she had her Chamber wainscotted with Mosaick a deep and dark Den hanged with Bats and Cobwebs is what more properly belonged to this pretended mad Woman than Chambers adorned with Painting and Mosaick If you will know what is my Opinion of this Den I must answer you That perhaps it was a Passage like the Grotto of Pausilypus and perhaps also the Painted * One may also suppose that there were Baths there for some great Lord. Chamber was for some Deity as the Chapel of the same Grotto of Pausilypus is for a certain Image of our Lady Strabo relates upon the Testimony of Ephorus an ancient Historian and Geographer of Cumae That the Cimmerians of Italy I call them so that I may not confound them with those of the Bosphorus did inhabit between Bayae and the Lake of Averno that they had no other Dwellings than subterraneous Dens where they hid themselves all Day and at Night issued out to perpetrate their Robberies and Murders We will if you please attribute the digging of this Cave to them only the Mosaick agrees little better with them than with the Sibyl To conclude though I should tell you that I neither know the use of this Grotto nor when it was made nor who were the Workmen it would by no means follow that it was the Sibyl's Grotto Without going further than * near to Miremont in Perigort there is a great and famous Cave called the