was so named by the Spaniards after Sir Francis Drake took the Caoafoga a Ship chiefly laden with Plate which they say he brought hither and divided it here with his Men. It is about 4 mile long and a mile and half broad and of a good heighth It is bounded with high steep Cliffs clear round only at one place on the East side The top of it is flat and even the Soil sandy and dry the Trees it produceth are but small bodied low and grow thin and there are only 3 or 4 sorts of Trees all unknown to us I observed they were much overgrown with long Moss There is good Grass especially in the beginning of the year There is no Water on this Island but at one place on the East side close by the Sea there it drills slowly down from the Rocks where it may be received into Vessels There was plenty of Goats but they are now all destroyed There is no other sort of Land Animal that I did ever see here are plenty of Boobies and Men of War Birds The anchoring place is on the East side near the middle of the Island close by the shore within two Cables lengths of the sandy Bay there is about 18 or 20 fathom good fast oazy ground and smooth Water for the S. E. point of the Island shelters from the South Winds which constantly blow here From the S. E. point there strikes out a small shole a quarter of a mile into the Sea where there is commonly a great Riplin or working of short Waves during all the Flood The Tide runs pretty strong the Flood to the South and the Ebb to the North. There is good landing on the Sandy Bay against the anchoring place from whence you may go up into the Island and at no place besides There are 2 or 3 high steep small Rocks at the S. E. point not a Cables length from the Island and another much bigger at the N. E. end it is deep Water all round but at the anchoring place and at the shole at the S. E point This Island lieth in lat 01d 10 m. South It is distant from Cape St. Lorenzo 4 or 5 leagues bearing from it W. S. W. and half a point westerly At this Island are plenty of those small Sea Turtle spoken of in my last Chapter The 21st day Captain Eaton came to an anchor by us he was very willing to have consorted with us again but Captain Davis's Men were so unreasonable that they would not allow Captain Eaton's Men an equal share with them in what they got therefore Captain Eaton staid here but one night and the next day sailed from hence steering away to the Southward We staid no longer than the day ensuing and then we sailed toward Point St. Hellena intending there to land some Men purposely to get Prisoners for intelligence Point Santa Hellena bears South from the Island Plata It lies in lat 2d 15 m. South The Point is pretty high flat and even at top overgrown with many great Thistles but no sort of Tree at a distance it appears like an Island because the Land within it is very low This Point strikes out West into the Sea making a pretty large Bay on the North side A mile within the Point on the Sandy Bay close by the Sea there is a poor small Indian Village called Sancta Hellena the Land about it is low sandy and barren there are no Trees nor Grass growing near it neither do the Indians produce any Fruit Grain or Plant but Water-Melons only which are large and very sweet There is no fresh Water at this place nor near it therefore the Inhabitants are obliged to fetch all their Water from the River Colanche which is in the bottom of the Bay about 4 leagues from it Not far from this Town on the Bay close by the Sea about 5 paces from high-water mark there is a sort of bitumenous matter boils out of a little hole in the earth It is like thin Tar the Spaniards call it Algatrane By much boiling it becomes hard like Pitch It is frequently used by the Spaniards instead of Pitch and the Indians that inhabit here save it in Jars It boils up most at high water and. then the Indians are ready to receive it These Indians are Fishermen and go out to Sea on Bark-logs Their chief subsistence is Maiz most of which they get from Ships that come hither for Algatrane There is good anchoring to leeward of the Point right against the Village but on the West side of the Point it is deep Water and no anchoring The Spaniards do report that there was once a very rich Ship driven ashore here in calm for want of Wind to work her Assoon as ever she struck she heel'd off to Sea and fill'd with Water presently and then slid off to 7 or 8 fathom Water where she lies to this day none having attempted to fish for her because she lies deep and there falls in here a great high Sea When we were abreast of this Point we sent away our Canoas in the night to take the Indian Village They landed in the morning betimes close by the Town and took some Prisoners They took likewise a small Bark which the Indians had set on fire but our Men quenched it and took the Indian that did it who being asked wherefore he set the Bark on fire said That there was an Order from the Vice-Roy lately set out commanding all Sea-men to burn their Vessels if attacked by us and betake themselves to their Boats There was another Bark in a small Cove a mile from the Village thither our men went thinking to take her but the Sea-men that were aboard set her in flames and fled In the evening our men came aboard and brought the small Bark with them the fire of which they had quenched and then we returned again towards Plata where we arriv'd the 26th day of September In the evening we sent out some men in our Bark lately taken and Canoas to an Indian Village called Manta 2 or 3 leagues to the Westward of Cape St. Lorenzo hoping there to get other Prisoners for we could not learn from those we took at Point St. Hellena the reason why the Vice-Roy should give such orders to burn the Ships They had a fresh Sea-breeze till 12 a clock at night and then it proved Calm wherefore they rowed away with their Canoas as near to the Town as they thought convenient and lay still till day Manta is a small Indian Village on the Main distant from the Island Plata 7 or 8 leagues It slands so advantageously to be seen being built on a small ascent that it makes a very fair prospect to the Sea yet but a few poor scattering Indian houses There is a very fine Church adorned with a great deal of Carved work It was formerly a habitation of Spaniards but they are all removed from hence now The Land about it is dry and
and West Indies for thatching Houses they are very lasting and serviceable much surpassing the Palmeto For this Thatch if well laid on will endure 5 or 6 years and this is called by the Spaniards the Palmeto Royal. The English at Jamaica give it the same Name Whether this be the same which they in Guinea get the Palm-wine from I know not but I know that it is like this The Land in the Country is full of small peeked barren Hills making as many little Valleys which appear flourishing and green At the West end of this Bay is the Hill of Petaplan in lat 17d 30 m. N. This is a round point stretching out into the Sea at a distance it seems to be an Island A little to the West of this Hill are several round Rocks which we left without us steering in between them and the round point where we had 11 fathom water We came to an anchor on the N. W. side of the Hill and went ashore about 170 Men of us and marched into the Country 12 or 14 miles There we came to a poor Indian Village that did not afford us a Meal of Victuals The people all fled only a Mulatto woman and 3 or 4 small Children who were taken and brought aboard She told us that a Carrier one who drives a Caravan of Mules was going to Acapulco laden with Flower and other Goods but stopt in the Road for fear of us a little to the West of this Village for he had heard of our being on this Coast and she thought he still remained there and therefore it was we kept the Woman to be our Guide to carry us to that place At this place where we now lay our Moskito-men struck some small Turtle and many small Jew-fish The Jew-fish is a very good Fish and I judge so called by the English because it hath Scales and Fins therefore a clean Fish according to the Levitical Law and the Jews at Jamaica buy them and eat them very freely It is a very large Fish shaped much like a Cod but a great deal bigger one will weigh 3 or 4 or 5 hundred weight It hath 3 large head with great Fins and Scales as big as an Half-Crown answerable to the bigness of his body It is very sweet Meat and commonly fat This Fish lives among Rocks there are plenty of them in the West Indies about Jamaica and the Coast of Caraccos but chiefly in these Seas especially more Westward We went from hence with our Ships the 18th day and steered West about 2 leagues farther to a place called Chequetan A mile and half from the shore there is a small Key and within it is a very good Harbour where Ships may careen there is also a small River of fresh water and wood enough The 14th day in the morning we went with 95 Men in 6 Canoas to seek for the Carrier taking the Mulatto woman for our Guide but Captain Townly would not go with us Before day we landed at a place called Estapa a league to the West of Chequetan The woman was well acquainted here having been often at this place for Muscles as she told us for here are great plenty of them they seem in all respects like our English Muscles She carry'd us through the pathless Wood by the side of a River for about a league then we came into a Savannah full of Bulls and Cows and here the Carrier before mentioned was lying at the Estantion-house with his Mules not having dared to advance all this while as not knowing where we lay so his own fear made him his Mules and all his Goods become a Prey to us He had 40 packs of Flower some Chocolate a great many small Cheeses and abundance of Earthen Ware The eatables we brought away but the Earthen Vessels we had no occasion for and therefore left them The Mules were about 60 we brought our Prize with them to the shore and so turn'd them away Here we also kill'd some Cows and brought with us to our Canoas In the afternoon our Ships came to an anchor half a mile from the place where we landed and then we went aboard Captain Townly seeing our good success went ashore with his Men to kill some Cows for here were no Inhabitants near to oppose us The Land is very woody of a good fertile soil watered with many small Rivers yet it hath but few Inhabitants near the Sea Captain Townly killed 18 Beefs and after he came aboard our Men contrary to Captain Swan's inclination gave Captain Townly part of the Flower which we took ashore Afterwards we gave the Woman some Cloaths for her and her Children and put her and two of them ashore but one of them a very pretty Boy about 7 or 8 years old Captain Swan kept The Woman cried and begg'd hard to have him but Captain Swan would not but promis'd to make much of him and was as good as his word He proved afterwards a very fine Boy for Wit Courage and Dexterity I have often wonder'd at his Expressions and Actions The 21st day in the evening we sailed hence with the Land-wind The Land-winds on this part of the Coast are at N. and the Sea-winds at W. S. W. We had fair weather and coasted along to the Westward The Land is high and full of ragged Hills and West from these ragged Hills the Land makes many pleasant and fruitful Valleys among the Mountains The 25th day we were abrest of a very remarkable Hill which towring above the rest of its fellows is divided in the top and makes two small parts It is in lat 18 d. 8 m. North. The Spaniards make mention of a Town called Thelupan near this Hill which we would have visited if we could have found the way to it The 26th day Captain Swan and Captain Townly with 200 Men of whom I was one went in our Canoas to seek for the City of Colima a rich place by report but how far within Land I could never learn for as I said before here is no Trade by Sea and therefore we could never get Guides to inform us or conduct us to any Town but one or two on this Coast and there is never a Town that lieth open to the Sea but Acapulco and therefore our search was commonly fruitless as now for we rowed above 20 leagues along shore and found it a very bad Coast to land we saw no House nor sign of Inhabitants although we past by a fine Valley called the Valley of Maguella only at two places the one at our first setting out on this Expedttion and the other at the end of it we saw a Horseman set as we supposed as a Centinel to watch us At both places we landed with difficulty and at each place we followed the track of the Horse on the sandy Bay but where they entered the Woods we lost the track and although we diligently searcht for it yet we could find it no more so we
therefore it is wholly unfrequented by Shipping Keyhooca is a large rich Town of good Trade about 4 Leagues from the River Guasickwalp on the West side It is inhabited with some few Spaniards and abundance of Mulatoes These keep many Mules they being most Carriers and frequently visit the Cacao Coast for Nuts and travel the Country between Villa de Mose and La Vera Cruz. This Country is pleasant enough in the dry Season but when the furious North Winds rage on the Coast and violently drive in the Sea it suffers extreamly being so much overflown that there is no travelling It was in the wet Season when Capt. Rives and Capt. Hewet made an Expedition in Canoas from the Island Trist to the River Guasickwalp and there Landed their Men designing to attack Keyhooca but the Country was so wet that there was no Marching neither was the Water high enough for a Canoa Here are great plenty of Vinellos From the River Guasickwalp the Land runs West 2 or 3 Leagues all low Land with sandy Bay to the Sea and very woody in the Country About three Leagues to the West of it the Land trends away to the North for about 16 Leagues rising higher also even from the very shore as you go up within Land making a very high Promontory called St. Martins Land but ending in a pretty bluff Point which is the West Bounds of the Bay of Campeachy From this blunt Point to Alvarado is about 20 Leagues the first four of it a high rocky shore with steep Cliffs to the Sea and the Land somewhat woody Afterwards you pass by very high Sand-hills by the Sea and an extraordinary great Sea falls in on the shore which hinders any Boats from Landing Within the Sand-hills again the Land is lower pretty plain and fruitful enough in large Trees The River of Alvarado is above a Mile over at the Mouth yet the entrance is but shole there being Sands for near two Mile off the shore clear from side to side nevertheless there are two Channels through these Sands The best which is in the middle has 12 or 14 Foot Water The Land on each side of the Mouth is high Sand-banks above 200 Foot high This River comes out of the Country in three Branches meeting altogether just within the Mouth where it is very wide and deep One of these Branches comes from the Eastward Another from the Westward And the third which is the true River of Alvarado and the biggest comes directly out of the Country opposite to the Sand-hills about a Mile West of the Rivers Mouth This last springs a great way from the Sea passing through a very fertile Country thick settled with Towns of Spaniards and Indians On the West side and just against the Mouth of the River the Spaniards have a small Fort of 6 Guns on the declivity of the Sand-bank a great heighth above the River which commands a small Spanish Town on the Back of it built in a Plain close by the River It is a great Fishery chiefly for Snooks which they catch in the Lake and when they are salted and dryed drive a great Trade in Exchanging them for Salt and other Commodities Besides salt Fish they export from hence abundance of dry Cod-Pepper and some pickled and put in Jars This Pepper is known by the Name of Guinea Pepper Yet for all this Trade 't is but a poor Place and yet has been often taken by the Privateers chiefly to secure their Ships while they should go up in their Canoas to the rich Towns within Land which notwithstanding they never yet attempted by reason that La Vera Cruz bordering so near they were still afraid of being attacqued both by Sea and Land from thence and so never durst prosecute their designs on the Country Towns Six Leagues West from Alvarado there is another large Opening out into the Sea and it is reported to have a Communication by a small Creek with this River of Alvarado and that Canoas may pass through it from one River to the other And at this Opening is a small Fishing Village The Land by the Sea is a continued high Sand-bank and so violent a Sea that it is impossible to Land with Boat or Canoa From this River to La Vera Cruz is 6 Leagues more the Coast still West There is a Riff of Rocks runs along the shore from Alvarado to Vera Cruz yet a good Channel for small Vessels to pass between it and the shore And about two Leagues to the East of Vera Cruz are two Islands called Sacrifice Islands I have set down the distance between Alvarado and La Vera Cruz according to the Common Account of 12 Leagues which I take to be truer but our Draughts make it 24. The Land by the Sea is much the same La Vera Cruz is a fair Town seated in the very bottom of the Bay of Mexico at the S. W. Point or Corner of the Bay for so far the Land runs West and there it turns about to the North. There is a good Harbour before it made by a small Island or Rock rather just in its Mouth which makes it very Commodious Here the Spaniards have built a strong Fort which commands the Harbour and there are great Iron Rings fix'd in the Fort-Wall against the Harbour for Ships to fasten their Cables For the North Winds blow so violently here in their Seasons that Ships are not safe at Anchors This Fort is called St. John d'Ulloa and the Spaniards do frequently call the Town of Vera Cruz by this Name The Town is a Place of great Trade being the Sea-Port to the City of Mexico and most of the great Towns and Cities in this Kingdom So that all the European Commodities spent in these Parts are Landed here and their Goods brought hither and Exported from hence Add to this that all the Treasure brought from Manila in the East Indies comes hither through the Country from Accapulca The Flota comes hither every three Years from Old Spain and besides Goods of the Product of the Country and what is brought from the East Indies and ship'd aboard them The King's Plate that is gathered in this Kingdom together with what belongs to the Merchants amounts to a vast Summ. Here also comes every Year the Barralaventa Fleet in October or November and stays till March. This is a small Squadron consisting of 6 or 7 Sail of stout Ships from 20 to 50 Guns These are ordered to visit all the Spanish Sea-Port Towns once every Year chiefly to hinder Foreigners from Trading and to suppress Privateers From this Port they go to the Havana on the North side of Cuba to sell their Commodities From hence they pass through the Gulph of Florida standing so far to the North as to be out of the Trade-Winds which are commonly between 30 d. and 40 d. of Lat. and being in a variable Winds-way they stretch away to the Eastwards till they may fetch Portarica if
down in Lat. 12 d. 16 m. It is about 20 leagues from the Main and 9 or 10 from Querisao and is accounted 16 or 17 leagues round The Road is on the S. W. side near the middle of the Island where there is a pretty deep Bay runs in Ships that come from the Eastward luff up close to the Eastern shore and let go their Anchor in 60 fathom water within half a Cables length of the shore But at the same time they must be ready with a Boat to carry a Hasar or Rope and make it fast ashore otherwise when the Land-wind comes in the night the Ship would drive off to Sea again for the ground is so steep that no Anchor can hold if once it starts About half a mile to the Westward of this Anchoring place there is a small low Island and a Channel between it and the main Island The Houses are about half a mile within Land right in the Road There is a Governour lives here a Deputy to the Governor of Querisao and 7 or 8 Soldiers with 5 or 6 Families of Indians There is no Fort and the Soldiers in peaceable times have little to do but to eat and sleep for they never watch but in time of War The Indians are Husband-men and plant Maiz and Guinea Corn and some Yames and Potatoes But their chiefest business is about Cattle for this Island is plentifully stocked with Goats and they send great quantities every year in Salt to Querisao There are some Horses and Bulls and Cows but I never saw any Sheep though I have been all over the Island The South side is plain low Land and there are several sorts of Trees but none very large There is a small Spring of water by the Houses which serves the Inhabitants though it is brackish At the West end of the Island there is a good Spring of Fresh water and 3 or 4 Indian Families live there but no Water nor Houses at any other place On the South side near the East-end is a good Salt-pond where Dutch Sloops come for Salt From Bon-Airy we went to the Isle of Aves or Birds so called from its great plenty of Birds as Men of War and Boobies but especially Boobies The Booby is a Water-fowl somewhat less than a Hen of a light greyish colour I observ'd the Boobies of this Island to be whiter than others This Bird hath a strong Bill longer and bigger than a Crows and broader at the end her Feet are flat like a Ducks Feet It is a very simple creature and will hardly go out of a mans way In other places they build their Nests on the ground but here they build on Trees which I never saw any where else tho I have seen of them in a great many places Their Flesh is black and eats Fishy but are often eaten by the Privateers Their numbers have been much lessen'd by the French Fleet which lay here till it was lost as I shall give an account The Man of War as it is called by the English is about the bigness of a Kite and in shape like it but black and the Neck is red It lives on Fish yet never lights on the Water but soars aloft like a Kite and when it sees its prey it flys down head foremost to the waters edge very swiftly takes his prey out of the Sea with his Bill and immediately mounts again as swiftly and never touching the Water but with his Bill His Wings are very long His Feet are like other Land-Fowl and he builds on Trees where he finds any but where they are wanting on the ground This Island Aves lies about 8 or 9 leagues to the Eastward of the Island Bon-airy about 14 or 15 leagues from the Main and about the lat of 11d 45m North. It is but small not above 4 mile in length and towards the East end not half a mile broad On the North side it is low Land commonly overflown with the Tide but on the Southside there is a great Rocky Bank of Coral thrown up by the Sea The West end is for near a mile space plain even Savanah Land without any Trees There are 2 or 3 Wells dug by Privateers who often frequent this Island because there is a good Harbor about the middle of it on the North side where they may conveniently careen The Riff or Bank of Rocks on which the French Fleet was lost as I mentioned above runs along from the East end to the Northward about 3 mile then tends away to the Westward making as it were a Half Moon This Riff breaks off all the Sea and there is good riding in even sandy ground to the Westward of it There are 2 or 3 small low sandy Keys or Islands within this Riff about 3 miles from the Main Island The Count de Estree lost his Fleet here in this manner Coming from the Eastward he fell in on the back of the Riff and fired Guns to give warning to the rest of his Fleet But they supposing their Admiral was engaged with Enemies hoised up their Topsails and crowded all the Sail they could make and ran full sail ashore after him all within half a mile of each other For his Light being in the Main Top was an unhappy Beacon for them to follow and there escaped but one Kings-ship and one Privateer The Ships continued whole all day and the Men had time enough most of them to get ashore yet many perished in the Wreck and many of those that got safe on the Island for want of being accustomed to such hardships died like rotten Sheep But the Privateers who had been used to such accidents lived merrily from whom I had this relation and they told me that if they had gone to Jamaica with 30 l. a Man in their Pockets they could not have enjoyed themselves more For they kept in a Gang by themselves and watched when the Ships broke to get the Goods that came from them and though much was staved against the Rocks yet abundance of Wine and Brandy floated over the Riff where these Privateers waited to take it up They lived here about 3 weeks waiting an opportunity to transport themselves back again to Hispaniola in all which time they were never without 2 or 3 Hogsheads of Wine and Brandy in their Tents and Barrels of Beef and Pork which they could live on without Bread well enough tho the new-comers out of France could not There were about 40 Frenchmen on board in one of the Ships where there was good store of Liquor till the after part of her broke away and floated over the Riff and was carry'd away to Sea with all the men drinking and singing who being in drink did not mind the danger but were never heard of afterwards In a short time after this great Shipwrack Captain Pain Commander of a Privateer of 6 Guns had a pleasant accident befel him at this Island He came hither to Careen intending to fit
Seas is among these Gallapago Islands for here is plenty of Grass There is another sort of Green Turtle in the South Seas which are but small yet pretty sweet These lye Westward on the Coast of Mexico One thing is very strange and remarkable in these Creatures that at the breeding time they leave for 2 or 3 Months their common haunts where they feed most of the Year and resort to other places only to lay their Eggs And 't is not thought that they eat any thing during this Season So that both He 's and She 's grow very lean but the He 's to that degree that none will eat them The most remarkable places that I did ever hear of for their breeding is at an Island in the West Indies called Caimanes and the Isle Ascention in the Western Ocean and when the breeding time is past there are none remaining Doubtless they swim some hundreds of Leagues to come to those two places For it hath been often observed that at Caimanes at the breeding time there are found all those sorts of Turtle before described The South Keys of Cuba are above 40 Leagues from thence which is the nearest place that these Creatures can come from and it is most certain that there could not live so many there as come here in one Season Those that go to lay at Ascention must needs travel much farther for there is no Land nearer it than 300 Leagues And it is certain that these Creatures live always near the shore In the South Sea likewise the Gallapagos is the place where they live the biggest part of the Year yet they go from thence at their Season over to the Main to lay their Eggs which is 100 Leagues the nearest place Altho multitudes of these Turtles go from their common places of feeding and abode to those laying places yet they do not all go And at the time when the Turtlè resort to these places to lay their Eggs they are accompanied with abundance of Fish especially Sharks the places which the Turtle then leave being at that time destitute of Fish which follow the Turtle When the She 's go thus to their places to lay the Male accompany them and never leave them till their return Both Male and Female are Fat the begining of the Season but before they return the Male as I said are so lean that they are not fit to eat but the Female are good to the very last Yet not so Fat as at the beginning of the Season It is reported of these Creatures that they are 9 days engendring and in the Water the Male on the Females back It is observable that the Male while engendring do not easily forsake their Female For I have gone and taken hold of the Male when ingendring and a very bad striker may strike them then for the Male is not shie at all but the Female seeing a Boat when they rise to blow would make her escape but that the Male grasps her with his 2 fore Fins and holds her fast When they are thus coupled it is best to strike the Female first then you are sure of the Male also These Creatures are thought to live to a great Age and it is observed by the Jamaica Turtlers that they are many years before they come to their full growth The air of these Islands is temperate enough considering the Clime Here is constantly a fresh Sea breze all Day and cooling refreshing winds in the Night Therefore the heat is not so violent here as in most places near the Equator The time of the Year for the Rains is in November December and January Then there is oftentimes excessive dark Tempestuous weather mixt with much Thunder and Lightning Sometimes before and after these Months there are moderate refreshing Showers but in May June July and August the weather is alway very fair We staid at one of these Islands which lies under the Equator but one Night because our Prizes could not get into an Anchor We refresht our selves very well both with Land and Sea Turtles and the next day we failed from thence The next Island of the Gallapagos that we came to is but 2 Leagues from this 'T is Rocky and barren like this it is about 5 or 6 Leagues long and 4 broad We Anchored in the Afternoon at the North side of the Island a quarter of a Mile from the shore in 16 fathom water It is steep all round this Island and no Anchoring only at this place Here it is but ordinary riding for the ground is so steep that if an Anchor starts it never holds again and the wind is commonly off from the Land except in the Night when the Land-wind comes more from the West for there it blows right along the shore though but faintly Here is no water but in Ponds and holes of the Rocks That which we first Anchored at hath water on the North end falling down in a stream from high steep Rocks upon the Sandy Bay where it may be taken up As soon as we came to an Anchor we made a Tent ashore for Captain Cook who was sick Here we found the Sea Turtle lying ashore on the Sand this is not customary in the West Indies We turned them on their backs that they might not get away The next day more came up when we found it to be their custom to lye in the Sun so we never took care to turn them afterwards but sent ashore the Cook every morning who kill'd as many as served for the day This custom we observed all the time we lay here feeding sometimes on Land Turtle sometimes on Sea Turtle there being plenty of either sort Captain Davis came hither again a second time and then he went to other Islands on the West side of these There he found such plenty of Land Turtle that he and his Men eat nothing else for 3 Months that he staid there They were so Fat that he saved 60 Jars of Oyl out of those that he spent This Oyl served instead of Butter to eat with Dough-boys or Dumplin's in his return out of these Seas He found very convenient places to Careen and good Channels between the Islands and very good Anchoring in many places There he found also plenty of brooks of good fresh water and fire wood enough there being plenty of Trees fit for many uses Captain Harris one that we shall speak of hereafter came hither likewise and found some Islands that had plenty of Mammee-trees and pretty large Rivers The Sea about these Islands is plentifully stored with Fish such as are at John Fernando's They are both large and Fat and as plentiful here as at John Fernando's Here are particularly abundance of Sharks The North part of this second Isle we anchor'd at lyes 28 minutes North of the Equator I took the heighth of the Sun with an Astrolabe These Isles of the Gallapago's have plenty of Salt We stay'd here but 12 days in which
time we put ashore 5000 packs of flower for a reserve if we should have occasion of any before we left these Seas Here one of our Indian Prisoners informed us that he was born at Ria Lexa and that he would engage to carry us thither He being examin'd of the strength and riches of it satisfy'd the Company so well that they were resolv'd to go thither Having thus concluded the 12th of June we sailed from hence designing to touch at the Island Cocos as well to put ashore some Flower there as to see the Island because it was in our way to Ria Lexa We steer'd North till in Lat. 4. d. 40 min. intending then to steer W. by N. for we expected to have had the Wind at S. by E. or S. S. E. as wo had on the South side of the Equator Thus I had formerly found the Winds near the shore in these latitudes but when we first parted from the Gallapagos we had the Wind at S. and as we sailed farther North we had the Winds at S. by W. then at S. S. W. Winds which we did not expect We thought at first that the Wind would come about again to the South but when we came to sail off West to the Island Cocos we had the Wind at S. W. by S. and could lye but W. by N. Yet we stood that course till we were in the lat 5 d. 40 m. North and then despairing as the Winds were to find the Island Cocos we steer'd over to the Main for had we seen the Island then we could not have fetcht it being so far to the North of it The Island Cocos is so named by the Spaniards because there are abundance of Coco-nut Trees growing on it They are not only in one or two places but grow in great Groves all round the Island by the Sea This is an uninhabited Island it is 7 or 8 leagues round and pretty high in the middle where it is destitute of Trees but looks very green and pleasant with an Herb called by the Spaniards Gramadael It is low Land by the Sea side This Island is in 5 d. 15 m. North of the Equator it is environed with Rocks which makes it almost inaccessible only at the N. E. end there is a small Harbor where Ships may safely enter and ride secure In this Harbour there is a fine Brook of fresh Water running into the Sea This is the account that the Spaniards give of it and I had the same also from Captain Eaton who was there afterward Any who like us had not experienced the nature of the Winds in these parts might reasonably expect that we could have sailed with a flown sheet to Ria Lexa but we found our selves mistaken for as we came nearer the shore we found the winds right in our Teeth but I shall refer my Reader to the Chapter of Winds in the Appendix for a further account of this We had very fair weather and small winds in this Voyage from the Gallapagos and at the beginning of July we fell in with Cape Blanca on the Main of Mexico This is so called from two white Rocks lying off it When we are off at Sea right against the Cape they appear as part of the Cape but being near the shore either to the Eastward or Westward of the Cape they appear like two Ships under sail at first view but coming nearer they are like two high Towers they being small high and steep on all sides and they are about half a mile from the Cape This Cape is in lat 9 d. 56 m. It is about the height of Beachy-head in England on the Coast of Sussex It is a full point with steep Rocks to the Sea The top of it is flat and even for about a mile then it gradually falls away on each side with a gentle descent It appears very pleasant being covered with great lofty Trees From the Cape on the N. W. side the Land runs in N. E. for about 4 leagues making a small Bay called by the Spaniards Caldera A league within Cape Blanco on the N. W. side of it and at the entrance of this Bay there is a small Brook of very good water running into the Sea Here the Land is low making a sadling between two small Hills It is very rich Land producing large tall Trees of many sorts the Mold is black and deep which I have always taken notice of to be a fat foil About a mile from this Brook towards the N. E. the VVood land terminates Here the Savannah land begins and runs some leagues into the Country making many small Hills and Dales These Savannahs are not altogether clear of Trees but are here and there sprinkled with small Groves which render them very delightful The Grass which grows here is very kindly thick and long I have seen none better in the West Indies Toward the bottom of the Bay the Land by the Sea is low and full of Mangroves but farther in the Country the Land is high and mountainous The Mountains are part VVoodland part Savannah The Trees in those VVoods are but small and short and the Mountain Savannahs are cloathed but with indifferent Grass From the bottom of this Bay it is but 14 or 15 leagues to the Lake of Nicaragua on the North-Sea Coast the way between is somewhat Mountanous but most Savannah Captain Cook who was taken sick at John Fernandoes continued so till we came within 2 or 3 leagues of Cape Blanco and then dyed of a sudden tho he seemed that morning to be as likely to live as he had been some weeks before but it is usual with sick men coming from the Sea where they have nothing but the Sea Air to dye off as soon as ever they come within the view of the Land About 4 hours after we all came to an Anchor namely the the Ship that I was in Captain Eaton and the great Meal Prize a league within the Cape right against the Brook of Fresh-water in 14 fathom clean hard Sand. Presently after we came to an Anchor Captain Cook was carried ashore to be buried 12 men carried their Arms to guard those that were ordered to dig the Grave for although we saw no appearance of Inhabitants yet we did not know but the Country might be thick inhabited And before Captain Cook was interrâ—…d 3 Spanish Indians came to the place where our men were digging the Grave and demanded what they were and from whence they came to whom our men answered they came from Lima and were bound to Ria Lexa but that the Captain of one of the Ships dying at Sea obligâ—…d them to come into this place to give him Christian burial The 3 Spanish Indians who were very shy at first began to be more bold and drawing nearer asked many silly questions and our men did not stick to sooth them up with as many falshoods purposely to draw them into their clutches Our men often
up their mother Fruit did not the Indians who plant large fields of these Trees when once they perceive the Fruit open take care to drive them out for they spread under the branches of the Tree a large Linnen cloth and then with sticks they shake the branches and so disturb the poor insects that they take wing to be gone yet hovering still over the head of their native Tree but the heat of the Sun so disorders them that they presently fall down dead on the cloth spread for that purpose where the Indians let them remain 2 or 3 days longer till they are throughly dry When they fly up they are red when they fall down they are black and when first they are quite dry they are white as the sheet wherein they lye though the colour change a little after These yield the much esteemed Scarlet The Cochineel-trees are called by the Spaniards Toona's They are planted in the Country about Guatimala and about Cheape and Guaxaca all 3 in the Kingdom of Mexico The Silvester is a red grain growing in a Fruit much resembling the Cochineel-fruit as doth also the Tree that bears it There first shoots forth a yellow Flower then comes the Fruit which is longer than the Cochineel-fruit The Fruit being ripe opens also very wide The inside being full of these small Seeds or Grains they fall out with the least touch or shake The Indians that gather them hold a dish under to receive the Seed and then shake it down These Trees grow wild and 8 or 10 of these Fruits will yield an ounce of Seed but of the Cochineel-fruits 3 or 4 will yield an ounce of insects The Silvester gives a colour almost as fair as the Cochineel and so like it as to be often mistaken for it but it is not near so valuable I often made enquiry how the Silvester grows and of the Cochineel but was never fully satisfied till I met a Spanish Gentleman that had lived 30 years in the West Indies and some years where these grow and from him I had these relations He was a very intelligent person and pretended to be well acquainted in the Bay of Campechy therefore I examined him in many particulars concerning that Bay where I was well acquainted my self living there 3 years He gave very true and pertinent answers to all my demands so that I could have no distrust of what he related When we first saw the Mountain of Guatimala we were by judgment 25 leagues distance from it As we came nearer the Land it appeared higher and plainer yet we saw no fire but a little smoak proceeding from it The Land by the Sea was of a good height yet but low in comparison with that in the Country The Sea for about 8 or 10 leagues from the shore was full of floating Trees or Drift Wood as it is called of which I have seen a great deal but no where so much as here and Pumice-stones floating which probably are thrown out of the burning Mountains and washed down to the shore by the Rains which are very violent and frequent in this Country and on the side of Honduras it is excessively wet The 24th day we were in lat 14 d. 30 m. North and the weather more settled Then Captain Townly took with him 106 men in 9 Canoas and went away to the Westward where he intended to Land and romage in the Country for some refreshment for our sick men we having at this time near half our men sick and many were dead since we left Ria Lexa We in the Ships lay still with our Topsails furled and our Corses or lower Sails hal'd up this day and the next that Captain Townly might get the start of us The 26th day we made sail again coasting to the Westward having the Wind at North and fair weather We ran along by a tract of very high Land which came from the Eastward more within Land than we could see after we fell in with it it bare us company for about 10 leagues and ended with a pretty gentle descent towards the West There we had a perfect view of a pleasant low Country which seemed to be rich in Pasturage for Cattle It was plentifully furnished with groves of green Trees mixt among the grassy Savannahs Here the Land was fenced from the Sea with high sandy Hills for the Waves all along this Coast run high and beat against the shore very boisterously making the Land wholly unapproachable in Boats or Canoas So we Coasted still along by this low Land 8 or 9 leagues farther keeping close to the shore for fear of missing Captain Townly We lay by in the night and in the day made an easie sail The 2d day of October Captain Townly came aboard he had coasted along shore in his Canoas seeking for an entrance but found none At last being out of hopes to find any Bay Creek or River into which he might safely enter he put ashore on a sandy Bay but overset all his Canoas he had one man drowned and several lost their Arms and some of them that had not waxt up their Cartrage or Catouche Boxes wet all their Powder Captain Townly with much ado got ashore and dragged the Canoas up dry on the Bay then every man searched his Catouche-box and drew the wet Powder out of his Gun and provided to march into the Country but finding it full of great Creeks which they could not ford they were forced to return again to their Canoas In the night they made good fires to keep themselves warm the next morning 200 Spaniards and Indians fell on them but were immediately repulsed and made greater speed back than they had done forward Captain Townly followed them but not far for fear of his Canoas These men came from Teguantapeque a Town that Captain Townly went chiefly to seek because the Spanish Books make mention of a large River there but whether it was run away at this time or rather Captain Townly and his men were short sighted I know not but they could not find it Upon his return we presently made sail coasting still Westward having the Wind at E. N. E. fair weather and a fresh gale We kept within 2 mile of the shore sounding all the way and found at 6 miles distance from Land 19 fathom at 8 miles distance 21 fathom gross Sand. We saw no opening nor sign of any place to land at so we sailed about 20 leagues farther and came to a small high Island called Tangola where there is good anchoring The Island is indifferently well furnished with Wood and Water and lieth about a league from the shore The Main against the Island is pretty high champion Savannah Land by the Sea but 2 or 3 leagues within land it is higher and very woody We coasted a league farther and came to Guatulco This Port is in lat 15 d. 30 m. it is one of the best in all this Kingdom of Mexico Near a mile
and small The Hill Petaplan A poor Indian Village Jew fish Chequetan a good Harbour Estapa Muscles there A Caravan of Mules taken A Hill near Thelupan The Coast here abouts The Volcan Town Valley and Bay of Colima Sallagua Port. Oarrha Ragged Hills Coronada or the Crown-Land Cape Corrientes Isles of Chametly The City Purification Valderas or the Valley of Flags They miss their design on this Coast. Captain Townly leaves them with the Darien Indians The Point and Isles of Pontique Other Isles of Chametly The Penguin fruit the yellow and the red Seals here Of the River of Cullacan and the Trade of a Town there with California Massaclan River and Town of Rosario Caput Cavalli and another Hill The difficulty of Intelligence on this Coast. The River of Oleta River of St. Jago Maxentelba Rock and Zelisco Hill Sancta Pechaque Town in the River of St. Jago Of Compostella Many of them cut off at Sancta Pecaque Of California whether an Island or not and of the North West and North East Passage A Method proposed for Discovery of the North West and North East Passages Isle of Santa Maria. A prickly Plant. Captain Swan proposes a Voyage to the East Indies Valley of Balderas again and Cape Corrientes The reason of their ill Success on the Mexican Coast and Departure thence for the East Indies IT was the 12th of October 1685 when we set out of the Harbour of Guatulco with our Ships The Land here lies along West and a little Southerly for about 20 or 30 leagues and the Sea Winds are commonly at W. S. W. sometimes at S. W. the Land Winds at N. We had now fair weather and but little Wind. We coasted along to the Westward keeping as near the shore as we could for the benefit of the Land Winds for the Sea Winds were right against us and we found a current setting to the Eastward which kept us back and obliged us to anchor at the Island Sacrificio which is a small green Island about half a mile long It lieth about a league to the West of Guatulco and about half a mile from the Main There seems to be a fine Bay to the West of the Island but it is full of Rocks The best riding is between the Island and the Main there you will have 5 or 6 fathom Water Here runs a pretty strong tide the Sea riseth and falleth 5 or 6 foot up and down The 18th day we sailed from hence coasting to the Westward after our Canoas We kept near the shore which was all sandy Bays the Country pretty high and woody and a great Sea tumbling in upon the shore The 22d day 2 of our Canoas came aboard and told us they had been a great way to the Westward but could not find Port Angels They had attempted to land the day before at a place where they saw a great many Bulls and Cows feeding in hopes to get some of them but the Sea run so high that they over-set both Canoas and wet all their Arms and lost 4 Guns and had one Man drown'd and with much ado got off again They could give no account of the other 2 Canoas for they lost company the first night that they went from Guatulco and had not seen them since We were now abrest of Port Angels though our men in the Canoas did not know it therefore we went in and anchored there This is a broad open Bay with 2 or 3 Rocks at the West side Here is good anchoring all over the Bay in 30 or 20 or 12 fathom Water but you must ride open to all Winds except the Land Winds till you come into 12 or 13 fathom Water then you are sheltered from the W. S. W. which are the common Trade Winds The Tide riseth here about 5 foot the Flood sets to the N. E. and the Ebb to the S. W. The landing in this Bay is bad the place of landing is close by the West side behind a few Rocks here always goes a great swell The Spaniards compare this Harbour for goodness to Guatulco but there is a great difference between them For Guatulco is almost Landlocked and this is an open road and no one would easily know it by their Character of it but by its marks and its latitude which is 15 d. North. For this reason our Canoas which were sent from Guatulco and ordered to tarry here for us did not know it not thinking this to be that fine Harbour and therefore went farther 2 of them as I said before returned again but the other 2 were not yet come to us The Land that bounds this Harbour is pretty high the Earth sandy and yellow in some places red it is partly Woodland partly Savannahs The Trees in the Woods are large and tall and the Savannahs are plentifully stored with very kindly Grass Two leagues to the East of this place is a Beef Farm belonging to Don Diego de la Rosa. The 23 day we landed about 100 men and marched thither where we found plenty of fat Bulls and Cows feeding in the Savannahs and in the House good store of Salt and Maiz and some Hogs and Cocks and Hens but the owners or overseers were gone We lay here 2 or 3 days feasting on fresh provision but could not contrive to carry any quantity aboard because the way was so long and our men but weak and a great wide River to ford Therefore we return'd again from thence the 26th day and brought every one a little Beef or Pork for the men that stay'd aboard The two nights that we stay'd ashore at this place we heard great droves of Jaccals as we suppos'd them to be barking all night long not far from us None of us saw these but I do verily believe they were Jaccals tho I did never see those Creatures in America nor hear any but at this time We could not think that there were less than 30 or 40 in a company We got aboard in the evening but did not yet hear any news of our two Canoas The 27th day in the morning we sailed from hence with the Land Wind at N. by W. The Sea Wind came about noon at W. S. W. and in the evening we anchored in 16 fathom water by a small rocky Island which lieth about half a mile from the Main and 6 leagues Westward from Port Angels The Spaniards give no account of this Island in their Pilot-book The 28th day we sailed again with the Land Wind in the afternoon the Sea breez blew hard and we sprung our Main Topmast This Coast is full of small Hills and Valleys and a great Sea falls in upon the shore In the night we met with the other 2 of our Canoas that went from us at Guatulco They had been as far as Acapulco to seek Port Angells Coming back from thence they went into a River to get Water and were encounterd by 150 Spaniards yet they fill'd their Water in spight of them but
had one man shot through the Thigh Afterward they went into a Lagune or Lake of Salt-water where they found much dried Fish and brought some aboard We being now abrest of that place sent in a Canoa mann'd with 12 men for more Fish The mouth of this Lagune is not Pistol-shot wide and on both sides are pretty high Rocks so conveniently placed by nature that many men may abscond behind and within the Rock the Lagune opens wide on both sides The Spaniards being allarmed by our 2 Canoas that had been there 2 or 3 days before came armed to this place to secure their Fish and seeing our Canoa coming they lay snug behind the Rocks and suffered the Canoa to pass in then they fired their Vōlley and wounded 5 of our men Our people were a little surprized at this sudden adventure yet fired their Guns and rowed farther into the Lagune for they durst not adventure to come out again through the narrow entrance which was near a quarter of a mile in length Therefore they rowed into the middle of the Lagune where they lay out of Gun-shot and looked about to see if there was not another passage to get out at broader than that by which they entered but could see none So they lay still 2 days and 3 nights in hopes that we should come to seek them but we lay off at Sea about 3 leagues distant waiting for their return supposing by their long absence that they had made some greater discovery and were gone farther than the Fish-range because it is usual with Privateers when they enter upon such designs to search farther than they proposed if they meet any encouragement But Captain Townly and his Bark being nearer the shore heard some Guns fired in the Lagune So he mann'd his Canoa and went towards the shore and beating the Spaniards away from the Rocks made a free passage for our men to come out of their pound where else they must have been starved or knocked on the head by the Spaniards They came aboard their Ships again the 31st of October This Lagune is about the lat of 16 d. 40 m. North. From hence we made sail again coasting to the Westward having fair weather and a Current setting to the West The second day of November we past by a Rock called by the Spaniards the Algatross The Land hereabout is of an indifferent height and woody and more within the Country Mountainous Here are 7 or 8 white cliffs by the Sea which are very remarkable because there are none so white and so thick together on all the Coast. They are 5 or 6 mile to the West of the Algatross Rock There is a dangerous shoal lieth S. by W. from these Cliffs 4 or 5 mile off at Sea Two leagues to the West of these Cliffs there is a pretty large River which forms a small Island at its mouth The Channel on the East side is but shoal and sandy but the West Channel is deep enough for Canoas to enter On the Banks of this Channel the Spaniards have made a Brestwork to hinder an Enemy from landing or filling Water The 3d day we anchored abrest of this River in 14 fathom Water about a mile and a half off shore The next morning we mann'd our Canoas and went ashore to the Brestwork with little resistance although there were about 200 men to keep us off They fired about 20 or 30 Guns at us but seeing we were resolved to land they quitted the place one chief reason why the Spaniards are so frequently routed by us although many times much our superiors in numbers and in many places fortified with Brestworks is their want of small Fire-arms for they have but few on all the Sea Coasts unless near their larger Garrisons Here we found a great deal of Salt brought hither as I judge for to salt Fish which they take in the Lagunes The Fish I observed here mostly were what we call Snooks neither a Sea-fish nor fresh Water-fish but very numerous in these salt Lakes This Fish is about a foot long and round and as thick as the small of a mans Leg with a pretty long head It hath Scales of a whitish colour and is good meat How the Spaniards take them I know not for we never found any Nets Hooks or Lines neither yet any Bark Boat or Canoa among them on all this Coast except the Ship I shall mention at Acapulco We marched 2 or 3 leagues into the Country and met with but one House where we took a Mulatto Prisoner who informed us of a Ship that was lately arrived at Acapulco she came from Lima. Captain Townly wanting a good Ship thought now he had an opportunity of getting one if he could perswade his men to venture with him into the Harbour of Acapulco and fetch this Lima Ship out Therefore he immediately proposed it and found not only all his own men willing to assist him but many of Captain Swan's men also Captain Swan opposed it because Provision being scarce with us he thought our time might be much better imployed in first providing our selves with food and here was plenty of Maiz in the River where we now were as we were informed by the same Prisoner who offered to conduct us to the place where it was But neither the present necessity nor Captain Swan's perswasion availed any thing no nor yet their own interest for the great design we had then in hand was to lye and wait for a rich Ship which comes to Acapulco every year richly laden from the Philippine Islands But it was necessary we should be well stored with Provisions to enable us to cruize about and wait the time of her coming However Townley's Party prevailing we only fill'd our Water here and made ready to be gone So the 5th day in the afternoon we sailed again coasting to the westward towards Acapulco The 7th day in the afternoon being about 12 leagues from the shore we saw the high Land of Acapulco which is very remarkable for there is a round Hill standing between other 2 Hills the westermost of which is the biggest and highest and hath two Hillocks like two paps on its top the eastermost Hill is higher and sharper than the middlemost From the middle Hill the Land declines toward the Sea ending in a high round point There is no Land shaped like this on all the Coast. In the evening Captain Townly went away from the Ships with 140 men in 12 Canoas to try to get the Lima Ship out of Acapulco Harbour Acapulco is a pretty large Town 17 degrees North of the Equator It is the Sea-port for the City of Mexico on the West side of the Continent as La Vera-Cruz or St. John d' Ulloa in the Bay of Nova Hispania is on the North side This Town is the only place of Trade on all this Coast for there is little or no Traffick by Sea on all the N. W. part of this vast Kingdom
Canby particularly who hath sailed as a Mate in a great many Voyages from Cape Lopez on the Coast of Guinea to Barbadoes and is much esteem d as a very sensible man hath often told me that he constantly found the distance to be between 60 and 62 degree whereas 't is laid down in 68 69 70 and 72 degrees in the common draughts As to the supposition it self which our Seamen make in the allowing but 60 miles to a degree I am not ignorant how much this hath been canvased of late years especially and that the prevailing opinion hath been that about 70 or upwards should be allowed But till I can see some better grounds for the exactness of these tryals that have been made on Land by Mr. Norwood and others considering the inequality of the Earths surface as well as the obliquity of the way in their allowing for which I am somewhat doubtful of their measures upon the whole matter I cannot but adhere to the general Sea-Calculation confirmed as to the main by daily experience till some more certain estimate shall be made than those hitherto attempted For we find our selves when we sail North or South to be brought to our intended place in a time agreeable enough with what we expect upon the usual supposition making all reasonable allowance for the little unavoidable deviations East or West and there seems no reason why the same estimate should not serve us in crosing the Meridians which we find so true in sailing under them As to this course of ours to Guam particularly we should rather increase than shorten our estimate of the length of it considering that the Easterly Wind and Current being so strong and bearing therefore our Log after us as is usual in such cases should we therefore in casting up the run of the Log make allowance for so much space as the Log it self drove after us which is commonly 3 or 4 miles in 100 in so brisk a gale as this was we must have reckoned more than 125 degrees but in this Voyage we made no such allowance though it be usual to do it so that how much soever this computation of mine exceeds the common Draughts yet is it of the shortest according to our experiment and calculation But to proceed with our Voyage The Island Guam or Guahon as the Native Indians pronounce it is one of the Ladrone Islands belongs to the Spaniards who have a small Fort with 6 Guns in it with a Governour and 20 or 30 Soldiers They keep it for the relief and refreshment of their Philippine Ships that touch here in their way from Acapulco to Manila but the Winds will not so easily let them take this way back again The Spaniards of late have named Guam the Island Maria it is about 12 leagues long and 4 broad lying N. and S. It is pretty high Champion Land The 21st day of May 1686 at 11 a clock in the evening we anchored near the middle of the Island Guam on the West side a mile from the shore At a distance it appears flat and even but coming near it you will find it stands shelving and the East side which is much the highest is fenced with steep Rocks that oppose the violence of the Sea which continually rage against it being driven with the constant Trade-wind and on that side there is no anchoring The West side is pretty low and full of small sandy Bays divided with as many rocky points The Soil of the Island is reddish dry and indifferent fruitful The Fruits are chiesly Rice Pine-apples Water-melons Musk-melons Oranges and Limes Coco-nuts and a sort of Fruit called by us Bread-fruit The Coco-nut Trees grow by the Sea on the Western side in great groves 3 or 4 miles in length and a mile or 2 broad This Tree is in shape like the Cabbage-tree and at a distance they are not to be known each from other only the Coco-nut Tree is fuller of Branches but the Cabbage-tree generally is much higher though the Coco-nut Trees in some places are very high The Nut or Fruit grows at the head of the Tree among the Branches and in clusters 10 or 12 in a cluster The Branch to which they grow is about the bigness of a mans arm and as long running small towards the end It is of a yellow colour full of knots and very tough The Nut is generally bigger than a mans head The outer Rind is near 2 inches thick before you come to the Shell the Shell it self is black thick and very hard The Kernel in some Nuts is near an inch thick sticking to the inside of the Shell clear round leaving a hollow in the middle of it which contains about a pint more or less according to the bigness of the Nut for some are much bigger than others This Cavity is full of sweet delicate wholsom and refreshing Water While the Nut is growing all the inside is full of this Water without any Kernel at all but as the Nut grows towards its maturity the Kernel begins to gather and settle round on the inside of the Shell and is soft like Cream and as the Nut ripens it increaseth in substance and becomes hard The ripe Kernel is sweet enough but very hard to digest therefore seldom eaten except by strangers who know not the effects of it but while it is young and soft like pap some men will eat it scraping it out with a spoon after they have drunk the water that was within it I like the Water best when the Nut is almost ripe for it is then sweetest and briskest When these Nuts are ripe and gathered the outside Rind becomes of a brown rusty colour so that one would think that they were dead and dry yet they will sprout out like Onions after they have been hanging in the Sun 3 or 4 months or thrown about in a House or Ship and if planted afterward in the Earth they will grow up to a Tree Before they thus sprout out there is a small spungy round knob grows in the inside which we call an Apple This at first is no bigger than the top of ones finger but increaseth daily sucking up the Water till it is grown so big as to fill up the Cavity of the Coco-nut and then it begins to sprout forth By this time the Nut that was hard begins to grow oily and soft thereby giving passage to the sprout that springs from the Apple which Nature hath so contrived that it points to the hole in the Shell of which there are 3 till it grows ripe just where it 's fastened by its Stalk to the Tree but one of these holes remains open even when it is ripe through which it creeps and spreads forth its Branches You may let these teeming Nuts sprout out a foot and half or 2 foot high before you plant them for they will grow a great while like an Onion out of their own substance Beside the Liquor or Water in the
we bore away on the North side till we came to the East point giving the Rocks a small birth then we trimb'd sharp and stood to the Southward passing close by it and sounded again but found no ground This shoal is laid down in our Drafts not above 16 or 20 leagues from New Holland but we did run afterwards 60 leagues due South before we fell in with it and I am very confident that no part of New Holland hereabouts lyes so far Northerly by 40 leagues as it is laid down in our Drafts For if New Holland were laid down true we must of necessity have been driven near 40 leagues to the Westward of our course but this is very improbable that the Current should set so strong to the Westward seeing we had such a constant Westerly Wind. I grant that when the Monsoon shifts first the Current does not presently shift but runs afterwards near a month but the Monsoon had been shifted at least two months now But of the Monsoons and other Winds and of the Currents elsewhere in their proper place As to these here I do rather believe that the Land is not laid down true than that the Current deceived us for it was more probable we should have been deceived before we met with the shoal than afterward for on the Coast of New Holland we found the Tides keeping their constant course the Flood running N. by E. and the Ebb S. by W. The 4th day of January 1688 we fell in with the Land of New Holland in the Lat. of 16 d. 50 m. having as I said before made our course due South from the shoal that we past by the 31st day of December We ran in close by it and finding no convenient anchoring because it lies open to the N. W. we ran along shore to the Eastward steering N. E. by E. for so the Land lies We steered thus about 12 leagues and then came to a point of Land from whence the Land trends East and Southerly for 10 or 12 leagues but how afterwards I know not About 3 leagues to the Eastward of this point there is a pretty deep Bay with abundance of Islands in it and a very good place to anchor in or to hale ashore About a league to the Eastward of that point we anchored January the 5th 1688. 2 mile from the shore in 29 fathom good hard sand and clean ground New Holland is a very large tract of Land It is not yet determined whether it is an Island or a main Continent but I am certain that it joyns neither to Asia Africa nor America This part of it that we saw is all low even Land with sandy Banks against the Sea only the points are rocky and so are some of the Islands in this Bay The Land is of a dry sandy soil destitute of Water except you make Wells yet producing divers sorts of Trees but the Woods are not thick nor the Trees very big Most of the Trees that we saw are Dragon-trees as we supposed and these too are the largest Trees of any there They are about the bigness of our large Apple Trees and about the same heighth and the rind is blackish and somewhat rough The leaves are of a dark colour the Gum distils out of the knots or cracks that are in the bodies of the Trees We compared it with some Gum Dragon or Dragons Blood that was aboard and it was of the same colour and taste The other sorts of Trees were not known by any of us There was pretty long grass growing under the Trees but it was very thin We saw no Trees that bore Fruit or Berries We saw no sort of Animal nor any track of Beast but once and that seemed to be the tread of a Beast as big as a great Mastiff Dog Here are a few small Land-birds but none bigger than a Blackbird and but few Sea-fowls Neither is the Sea very plentifully stored with Fish unless you reckon the Manatee and Turtle as such Of these creatures there is plenty but they are extraordinary shy though the Inhabitants cannot trouble them much having neither Boats nor Iron The Inhabitants of this Country are the miserablest People in the world The Hodmadods of Monomatapa though a nasty People yet for Wealth are Gentlemen to these who have no Houses and Skin Garments Sheep Poultry and Fruits of the Earth Ostrich Eggs c. as the Hodmadods have and setting aside their humane shape they differ but little from Brutes They are tall strait bodied and thin with small long Limbs They have great Heads round Foreheads and great Brows Their Eye-lids are always half closed to keep the Flies out of their Eyes they being so troublesome here that no fanning will keep them from coming to ones Face and without the assistance of both hands to keep them off they will creep into ones Nostrils and Mouth too if the Lips are not shut very close So that from their Infancy being thus annoyed with these Insects they do never open their Eyes as other People and therefore they cannot see far unless they hold up their Heads as if they were looking at somewhat over them They have great Bottle noses pretty full lips and wide mouths The two fore teeth of their upper Jaw are wanting in all of them men and women old and young whether they draw them out I know not Neither have they any Beards They are long visaged and of a very unpleasing aspect having no one graceful feature in their faces Their Hair is black short and curl'd like that of the Negroes and not long and lank like the common Indians The colour of their skins both of their faces and the rest of their body is coal black like that of the Negroes of Guinea They have no sort of Cloaths but a piece of the rind of a Tree ty'd like a Girdle about their wastes and a handful of long Grass or 3 or 4 small green Boughs full of Leaves thrust under their Girdle to cover their nakedness They have no Houses but lye in the open Air without any covering the Earth being their Bed and the Heaven their Canopy Whether they cohabit one Man to one Woman or promiscuously I know not but they do live in Companies 20 or 30 Men Women and Children together Their only food is a small sort of Fish which they get by making Wares of stone across little Coves or branches of the Sea every Tide bringing in the small Fish and there leaving them for a prey to these people who constantly attend there to search for them at low water This small Fry I take to be the top of their Fishery they have no Instruments to catch great Fish should they come and such seldom stay to be left behind at low water nor could we catch any Fish with our Hooks and Lines all the while we lay there In other places at low water they seek for Cockles Muscles and Periwincles Of these Shell-fish there are
they would have all the produce of them at their own disposal Yet even in this they are short and may be still more disappointed of the Pepper Trade if other People would seek for it For the greatest part of the Island of Sumatra propagates this Plant and the Natives would readily comply with any who would come to Trade with them notwithstanding the great endeavours the Dutch make against it for this Island is so large populous and productive of Pepper that the Dutch are not able to draw all to themselves Indeed this place about Bancalis is in a manner at their devotion and for ought I know it was through a design of being revenged on the Dutch that Captain Johnson lost his life I find the Malayans in general are implacable Enemies to the Dutch and all seems to spring from an earnest desire they have a free Trade which is restrained by them not only here but in the Spice Islands and in all other places where they have any power But 't is freedom only must be the means to incourage any of these remote people to Trade especially such of them as are industrious and whose inclinations are bent this way as most of the Malayans are and the Major part of the people of the East Indies even from the Cape of Good Hope Eastward to Japan both Continent and Islands For tho in many places they are limited by the Dutch English Danes c. and restrain'd from a free Trade with other Nations yet have they continually shewn what an uneasiness that is to them And how dear has this Restraint cost the Dutch when yet neither can they with all the Forts and Guard-Ships secure the Trade wholly to themselves any more then the Barlaventa Fleet can secure the Trade of the West Indies to the Spaniards but enough of this matter You have heard before that Mr. Wells came with his Sloop to Bancalis to the great joy of the 2 men that were yet alive in Captain Johnson's Vessel These 2 Seamen were so just that they put all Captain Johnsons Papers and Money into one Chest then lockt it and put the Key of it into another Chest and locking that flung the Key of it into the Sea and when Mr Wells came aboard they offered him the Command of both Vessels He seemingly refused it saying that he was no Seaman and could not manage either of them yet by much importunity he accepted the Command of them or at least undertook the account of what was in the Sloop engaging to give a faithful account of it to Governor Bloom They were all now so weakned that they were but just enough to sail one of the Vessels Therefore they sent to the Shabander of Bancalis to desire some of his Men to help sail the Sloops over to Malacca but he refused it Then they offered to sell one of them for a small matter but neither would he buy Then they offered to give him the smallest to that he answered that he did not dare to accept of her for fear of the Dutch Then Mr. Wells and his crew concluded to take the Pepper and all the Stores out of the small Vessel and burn her and go away with the other to Malacca This they put in execution and presently went away and opening Captain Johnson's Chest they found 2 or 300 Dollars in Money This with all his Writings and what else they found of value Mr. Wells took into his possession In a very short time they got over to Malacca There they stayed expecting the coming of some English Ship to get a Pilot to Navigate the Sloop for neither of them would undertake to Navigate her farther Captain Lacy coming hither first he spared Mr. Wells his chief Mate to Navigate her to Achin when we came hither they were ready to sail and went away 2 or 3 days before us To return therefore to our own Voyage Captain Weldon having finished his business at Malacca we failed again steering towards Achin where he designed to touch in his way to Fort St. George We overtook Mr Wells about 35 leagues short of Achin against the River Passange Jonca and shortly after we both arrived at Achin and anchored in the Road about the beginning of March 1689. Here I took my leave of Captain Weldon and of my friend Mr. Hall who went with us to Tonquin and I went ashore being very weak with my Flux as I had been all the Voyage Captain Weldon offered me any kindness that lay in his Power at Fort St. George if I would go with him thither but I chose rather to stay here having some small acquaintance than to go in that weak condition to a place where I was wholly unknown But Mr. Hall went with Captain Weldon to Fort St. George and from thence in a short time returned to England in the Williamson of London CHAP VII The Country of Achin described its Situation and Extent Golden Mount and the Neighbouring Isles of Way and Gomez c. making several Channels and the Road of Achin The Soil of the Continent Trees and Fruits particularly the Mangastan and Pumple-nose Their Roots Herbs and Drugs the Herb Ganga or Bang and Camphire the Pepper of Sumatra and Gold of Achin The Beasts Fowl and Fish The People their Temper Habits Buildings City of Achin and Trades The Husbandry Fishery Carpenters and Flying Proes The Money-Changers Coin and Weights Of the Gold-Mines The Merchants who come to Achin and of the Chinese Camp or Fair. The washing used at Achin A Chinese Renegado Punishments for Theft and other Crimes The Government of Achin of the Queen Oronkeys or Nobles and of the Slavery of the People The State kept by the Eastern Princes A Civil War here upon the choice of a new Queen The A. and the other English in a fright upon a seizure made of a Moors Ship by an English Captain The weather floods and heat at Achin BEing now arrived at Achin again I think it not amiss to give the Reader some short account of what observations I made of that City and Country This Kingdom is the largest and best peopled of many small ones that are up and down the Isle of Sumatra and it makes the North West end of that Island It reaches Eastward from that N. W. point of the Island a great way along the shore towards the Streights of Malacca for about 50 or 60 Leagues But from Diamond point which is about 40 Leagues from Achin towards the borders of the Kingdom the Inhabitants tho belonging to Achin are less in subjection to it Of these I can say but little neither do I know the bounds of this Kingdom either within Land or along the West Coast. That West side of the Kingdom is high and mountainous as is generally the rest of the West Coast of the whole Island The point also of Achin or extremity of the Island is High Land but Achin it self and the Country to the Eastward is lower
Country and its Product with some particulars of the Logwood-Cutters their hunting for Beef and making Hides c. I have in my former Voyage described the Coast from Cape Catoch to Cape Cendecedo Therefore I shall now begin where I then left off and following the same Method proceed to give some Account of the Sea-Coast of the Bay of Campeachy being competently qualified for it by many little Excursions that I made from Trist during my abode in these Parts The Bay of Campeachy is a deep bending of the Land contained between Cape Condecedo on the East and a Point shooting forth from the high-High-Land of St. Martins on the West The distance between these two Places is about 120 Leagues in which are many Large and Navigable Rivers Wide Lagunes c. Of all which I shall treat in their order as also of the Land on the Coast its Soil Product c. Together with some Observations concerning the Trees Plants Vegetables Animals and Natives of the Country From Cape Condecedo to the Salinas is 14 or 15 Leagues the Coast runs in South It is all a Sandy Bay between and the Land also within is dry and sandy producing only some scrubbed Trees Half way between these two Places you may dig in the Sand above High-Water-Mark and find very good fresh Water The Salina is a fine small Harbour for Barks but there is not above 6 or 7 Foot Water and close by the Sea a little within the Land there is a large Salt Pond belonging to Campeachy-Town which yields abundance of Salt At the time when the Salt Kerns which is in May or June the Indians of the Country are ordered by the Spaniards to give their attendance to rake it ashore and gather it into a great Pyramidal Heap broad below and sharp at the top like the Ridg of a House then covering it all over with dry Grass and Reeds they set fire to it and this burns the out-side Salt to a hard black Crust The hard Crust is afterwards a defence against the Rains that are now settled in and preserves the Heap dry even in the wettest Season The Indians whose business I have told you is to gather the Salt thus into Heaps wait here by turns all the Kerning Season not less than 40 or 50 Families at a time yet here are no Houses for them to lie in neither do they at all regard it for they are relieved by a fresh supply of Indians every Week and they all sleep in the open Air some on the Ground but most in very poor Hammacks fastned to Trees or Posts stuck into the Ground for that purpose Their Fare is no better than their Lodging for they have no other Food while they are here but Tartilloes and Posole Tartilloes are small Cakes made of the Flower of Indian Corn and Posole is also Indian Corn boiled of which they make their Drink But of this more hereafter when I treat of the Natives and their Manner of Living When the Kerning Season is over the Indians march home to their settled Habitations taking no more care of the Salt But the Spaniards of Campeachy who are Owners of the Ponds do frequently send their Barks hither for Salt to load Ships that lye in Campeachy Road and afterwards transport it to all the Ports in the Bay of Mexico especially to Aluarado and Tompeck two great Fishing Towns and I think that all the Inland Towns thereabouts are supplied with it for I know of no other Salt Ponds on all the Coast besides this and those before-mentioned This Salina Harbour was often visited by the English Logwood-Cutters in their way from Jamaica to Trist. And if they found any Barks here either light or laden they made bold to take and sell both the Ships and the Indian Sailers that belonged to them This they would tell you was by way of reprizal for some former injuries received of the Spaniards though indeed 't was but a pretence for the Governours of Jamaica knew nothing of it neither durst the Spaniards complain for at that time they used to take all the English Ships they met with in these Parts not sparing even such as came laden with Sugar from Jamaica and were bound for England especially if they had Logwood aboard This was done openly for the Ships were carried into the Havanna there sold and the Men imprisoned without any Redress From the Salinas to Campeachy Town is about 20 Leagues the Coast runs S. by W. The first 4 Leagues of it along the Coast is drowned Mangrove-Land yet about two Mile South of the Salina about 200 Yards from the Sea there is a fresh Spring which is visited by all the Indians that pass this way either in Bark or Canoa there being no Water beside near it and there is a small dirty path leads to it thro' the Mangroves after you are past these Mangroves the Coast riseth higher with many sandy Bays where Boats may conveniently land but no fresh Water till you come to a River near Campeachy Town The Land further along the Coast is partly Mangrovy but most of it dry Ground and not very fruitful producing only a few scrubed Bushes And there is no Logwood growing on all this Coast even from Cape Catoch to Campeachy Town About six Leagues before you come to Campeachy there is a small Hill called Hina where Privateers do commonly Anchor and keep Sentinels on the Hill to look out for Ships bound to the Town There is plenty of good Fire-wood but no Water and in the surf of the Sea close by the shore you find abundance of Shell-fish called by the English Horse-hoofs because the under part or belly of the Fish is flat and somewhat resembling that Figure in Shape and Magnitude but the back is round like a Turtles the Shell is thin and brittle like a Lobsters with many small Claws and by report they are very good Meat but I never tasted any of them my self There are three small low sandy Islands about 25 or 26 Leagues from Hina bearing North from it and 30 Leagues from Campeachy On the South side of these Islands there is good Anchorage but neither Wood nor Water And as for Animals we saw none but only great numbers of large Rats and plenty of Boobies and Men-of-War-Birds These Islands are call'd the Triangles from the Figure they make in their Position There are no other at any distance from the shore but these and the Alcranies mentioned in the former Chapter in all this Coast that I have seen From Hina to Campeachy as I said before is about 6 Leagues Campeachy is a fair Town standing on the shore in a small bending of the Land and is the only Town on all this Coast even from Cape Catoch to La Vera Cruz that stands open to the Sea It makes a fine shew being built all with good Stone The Houses are not high but the Walls very strong the Roofs flatish after the Spanish Fashion and
Savannah with some large Palmeto-Trees growing in it The North side of the VVest end is full of Coco-Plum-Bushes and some Grapes The Coco-Plum-Bush is about 8 or 9 Foot high spreading out into many Branches It s Rind black and smooth the Leaves oval and pretty large and of a dark Green The Fruit is about the bigness of a Horse-Plum but round some are black some white others redish The Skin of the Plum is very thin and smooth the inside white soft and woolly rather fit to suck than bite inclosing in the middle a large soft Stone This Fruit grows commonly in tho Sand near the Sea and I have tasted some that have been saltish but they are commonly sweet and pleasant enough and accounted very wholsom The Body of the Grape-Tree is about two or three Foot in Circumference growing 7 or 8 Foot high then sends forth many Branches whose Twigs are thick and gross the Leaves are shaped much like an Ivy Leaf but broader and more hard the Fruit is as big as an ordinary Grape growing in Bunches or Clusters among the Twigs all over the Tree it is black when ripe and the inside redish with a large hard Stone in the middle This Fruit is very pleasant and wholsom but of little substance the Stones being so large The Body and Limbs of the Tree are good Fewel making a clear strong fire therefore often used by the Privateers to harden the Steels of their Guns when faulty The Animals of this Island are Lizards Guanoes Snakes and Dear Beside the Common small Lizard there is another sort of a large kind called a Lyon-Lizard This Creature is shaped much like the other but almost as big as a Man's Arm and it has a large Comb on its head when it is assaulted it sets its Comb up an end but otherways it lyes down flat Here are two or three sorts of Snakes some very large as I have been told At the West end of the Island close by the Sea you may dig in the Sand 5 or 6 Foot deep and find good fresh Water There are commonly VVells ready made by Seamen to water their Ships but they soon fill up if not cleared and if you dig too deep your VVater will be salt This Island was seldom clear of Inhabitants when the English visited the Bay for Logwood for the biggest Ships did always ride here in 6 or 7 Fathom Water close by the Shore but smaller Vessels ran up 3 Leagues farther to One-Bush-Key of which in my former Chapter The second Mouth or Entrance into this Lagune is between Trist and Beef-Island and is about 3 Mile wide It is shoal without and only two Channels to come in The deepest Channel on a Spring Tide has 12 Foot Water It lyes near the middle of the Mouth hard Sand on the Barr the West Channel is about 10 Foot Water and lies pretty near Beef-Island You run in with the Sea-Breez and sound all the way taking your Sounding from Beef-Island shore The bottom is soft Oaz and it shoots gradually Being shot in within Beef-Island Point you will have three fathom then you may stand over towards Trist till you come near the Shore and there Anchor as you please There is good Anchoring any where within the Bar between Trist and Beef-Island but the Tide is much stronger than at Port-Royal This is the other Mouth or opening to the Salt Lagune before-mentioned This Lagune is call'd by the Spaniards Laguna Termina or the Lagune of Tides because they run very strong here Small Vessels as Barks Periagoes or Canoas may sail thro' this Lagune from one Mouth to the other or into such Creeks Rivers or smaller Lagunes as empty themselves into this of which here are many The first of Note on the East part of this Lagune as you come in at Port-Royal is the River Summasenta This River though but small yet it is big enough for Pereagoes to enter It disembogues on the South side near the middle of the Lagune There was formerly an Indian Village named Summasenta near the Mouth of the River and another large Indian Town called Chucquebul 7 or 8 Leagues up in the Country This latter was once taken by the Privateers by whom I have been informed that there were about 2000 Families of Indians in it and two or three Churches and as many Spanish Friers though no white Men beside The Land near this River yields plenty of Logwood From Summasenta River to One-Bush-Key is 4 or 5 Leagues the shore running West I have described One-Bush-Key and the Creek against it which as I said is very narrow and not above a Mile long before it opens into another wide Lake lying nearest N. and S. called the East Lagune It is about a League and half wide and 3 Leagues long encompassed with Mangrove-Trees At the S. E. corner of it there is another Creek about a Mile wide at the Mouth running 6 or 7 Mile into the Country on both sides of it grows plenty of Logwood therefore it was inhabited by Englishmen who lived in small Companies from three to ten in a Company and settled themselves at their best Convenience for Cutting At the Head of the Creek they made a path leading into a large Savanah full of black Cattle Horses and Deer which was often visited by them upon occasion At the North end and about the middle of the East Lagune there is another small Creek like that which comes out against One-Bush-Key but less and shallower which dischargeth it self into Laguna Termina against a small sandy Key called by the English Serles's Key from one Captain Serles who first carried his Vessel here and was afterwards killed in the Western Lagune by one of his company as they were cutting Logwood together This Captain Serles was one of Sir Henry Morgans Commanders at the Sacking of Panama who being sent out to cruise in a small Vessel in the South Seas happened to surprize at Toboca the Boatswain and most of the Crew belonging to the Trinity a Spanish Ship on Board which were the Friers and Nuns with all the old Gentlemen and Matrons of the Town to the number of 1500 Souls besides an immense Treasure in Silver and Gold as I was informed by Captain Peralta who then Commanded her as he did afterwards when she was taken by Captain Sharp all which he might have taken in the Ship had he pursued her On the West side of the East Lagune there is a small Skirt of Mangroves that separates it from another running Parallel with it called the East Lagune which is about the bigness of the former Towards the North end of this Laguue runs a small Creek coming out of the East Lagune deep enough for small Barks to pass through At the South end of this Lagune there is a Creek about a Mile wide at its Mouth and half a Mile from thence it divides into two Branches one called the East the other the West Branch both deep
care for Victuals till they come Home again This is called Posole And by the English Poorsoul It is so much esteemed by the Indians that they are never without some of it in their Houses Another way of Preparing their Drink is to parch the Maiz and then grind it to Powder on the Rubbing-stone putting a little Anatta to it which grows in their Plantations and is used by them for no other purpose They mix it all with Water and presently drink it off without straining In long Journeys they prefer this Drink before Posole They feed abundance of Turkies Ducks and Dunghill Fowls of which the Padre has an exact Account and is very strict in gathering his Tithe and they dare not kill any except they have his Leave for it They plant Cotton also for their Cloathing The Men wear only a short Jacket and Breeches These with a Palmeto Leaf Hat is their Sundays Dress for they have neither Stockings nor Shoes neither do they wear these Jackets on Week Days The Women have a Cotton-Peticoat and a large Frock down to their Knees the Sleeves to their Wrists but not gathered The Bosom is open to the Breast and Imbroidered with black or red Silk or Grogram Yarn two Inches broad on each side the Breast and clear round the Neck In this Garb with their Hair ty'd up in a Knot behind they think themselves extream fine The Men are obliged by the Padres as I have been inform'd to Marry when they are Fourteen Years old and the Women when Twelve And if at that Age they are not provided the Priest will chuse a Virgin for the Man or a Man for the Virgin of equal Birth and Fortune and joyn them together The Spaniards give several Reasons for this Imposition Viz. That it preserves them from Debauchery and makes them Industrious That it brings them to pay Taxes both to the King and Church for as soon as they are Married they pay to both And that it keeps them from rambling out of their own Parish and settling in another which would by so much lessen the Padres Profit They love each other very well and live comfortably by the sweat of their Brows They build good large Houses and inhabit altogether in Towns The side Walls are Mud or Watling plaister'd on the inside and thatch'd with Palm or Palmeto Leaves The Churches are large built much higher than the Common Houses and covered with Pantile and within adorned with Coarse Pictures and Images of Saints which are all painted tauny like the Indians themselves Besides these Ornaments there are kept in the Churches Pipes Hautboys Drums Vizards and Perruques for their Recreation at solemn Times for they have little or no Sport or Pastime but in Common and that only upon Saints Days and the Nights ensuing The Padres that serve here must learn the Indian Language before they can have a Benefice As for their Tithes and other Incoms Mr. Gage an English Man hath given a large Account of them in his Survey of the West Indies But however this I will add of my own knowledge that they are very dutiful to their Priests observing punctually their Orders and behave themselves very circumspectly and reverently in their Presence They are generally well shaped of a middle size streight and clean Limb'd The Men more spare the Women plump and fat their Faces are round and flat their Foreheads low their Eyes little their Noses of a mid'dle size somewhat flattish full Lips pretty full but little Mouths white Teeth and their Colour of a dark tauny like other Indians They sleep in Hammacks made with small Cords like a Net fastned at each end to a Post. Their Furniture is but mean Viz. Earthen Pots to boil their Maiz in and abundance of Callabashes They are a very harmless sort of People kind to any Strangers and even to the Spaniards by whom they are so much kept under that they are worse than Slaves nay the very Negroes will domineer over them and are countenanced to do so by the Spaniards This makes them very melancholly and thoughtful however they are very quiet and seem contented with their Condition if they can tolerably subsist But sometimes when they are imposed on beyond their Ability they will march off whole Towns Men Women and Children together as is before related CHAP. VI. The River of Checapeque The River of Dos Boccas The Towns up the Country Halpo Their Trade Old Hats a good Commodity A sad Accident in Hunting Tondelo River Musketos troublesom on this Coast. Guasickwalp River Teguantapeque River Few Gold Mines on all this part of the Sea-Coast Teguantapeque Town Keyhooca and its Cacao-Trade Vinellos Alvarado River and its Branches It s Fort Town and Trade Cod Pepper La Vera Cruz. The Fort of St. John d'Ulloa The Barra la Venta Fleet and their Navigation about the West India Coast. The Town of Tispo Panuk River and Town Lagune and Town of Tompeque Huniago Island It s Trade in Shrimps The Author's return to Logwood-Cutting at Trist. Captain Gibbs kill'd there by some Indians he brought from New-England The Author 's setting out to Jamaica and return for England HAving given the Reader an Account of the Indians inhabiting about the River of Tobasco I come next to describe the Western Coast of this Bay with its Rivers and other most remarkable Particulars From Tobasco River to the River Checapeque is 7 Leagues The Coast lies East and West all woody low Ground sandy Bay and good Anchoring but there falls in a pretty high Sea on the shore therefore but bad Landing yet Canoas may with care run in if the Men are ready to leap out as soon as she touches the Ground and then she must immediately be drag'd up out of the Surf And the same caution and dexterity is to be used when they go off again There is no fresh Water between Tobasco River and Checapeque This latter is rather a salt Creek than a River for the Mouth of it is not above 20 Paces wide and about 8 or 9 Foot Water on the Bar but within there is 12 or 13 Foot at low Water and good Riding for Barks half a Mile within the Mouth This Creek runs in E. S. E. about two Miles and then strikes away South up into the Country At its Mouth between it and the Sea is a bare sandy Point of Land Where on the side next the River close by the Brink of it and no where else you may scrape up the Sand which is course and brown with your Hands and get fresh Water but if you dig lower the Water will be salt Half a Mile within the Mouth when you are past the sandy Point the Land is wet and swampy bearing only Mangroves on each side for 4 or 5 Leagues up and after that firm Land where you will find a Run of fresh Water it being all salt till you come thither A League beyond this is a Beef Estantion or Farm
Trade-Winds so has the Coast of Mexico and Guinea And as the Coast of Peru lies North and South so those lye nearest East and West According to the Course of the general Trade the Winds should be Easterly on these Coasts but here we meet with the quite contrary for from the Lat. of 10 d. North to 20 d. North on the Coast of Mexico the Winds are constantly near the West on all the Coast except check'd sometimes with Tornadoes which do commonly rise against the Wind the same is observed on the Coast of Angola where there are Tornadoes also But the Coast of Peru is not subject to any yet on that Coast there are sometimes Calms two or three days together off of the Bay of Arica between the Lat. of 16 and 23. In the Lat. of 19 you shall have Calms 30 or 40 Leagues off Shore but not so far on either side the Bay neither are such Calms usual on the Coasts of Angola and Mexico only after a Tornado as is common in other Places As the Coasts of Angola and Peru do in most things run parallel each with other so do the Coasts of Mexico and Guinea And if I am not mistaken the Winds on both these Coasts are much alike Both these Coasts do begin at the Bite or Bending of the Land where the other two Parallel Lands do end for as the Mexican Continent begins at or near Panama which is 8 or 9 degrees North of the Equator so that part of Guinea which I speak of begins about Old Callabar in about 4 or 5 degrees of North Lat. The Land trends away Westerly from both these Places some hundreds of Leagues and though not on one Point of the Compass because of the small Points Bays and Bending in the Land yet the Winds that on more regular Shores keep their constant Course and blow in upon the Shore about two Points from the Sea do also here on the Guinea Coast blow on the Shore from the West Quarter and as the Land lies Pointing in on the Shore even from Cape Mount to Old Callabar which is above 400 Leagues and that with such constancy that the East part of that Coast is called the Leeward Coast and the West part the Wind-ward Coast And yet this is so contrary to the general Opinion of Seamen concerning the Course of the Winds that nothing but their own experience will convince them of the Truth of it for thus they generally reason Barbardoes is the Easter-most of the Carribe Islands therefore the rest are said to be to Leeward of it and so of any other Island as indeed it usually holds true because the Winds there are commonly at East but this Counter Wind on the Coast of Guinea astonishes most Seamen that have seen nothing like what they meet with here There are other Coasts where the Winds shift very little as on the Coast of Carraccos and the South side of the Bay of Mexico i. e. in the Bay of Compechy and all the Carribe Islands Indeed there may be sometimes some small flurts of a Westerly Wind on these Coasts but neither constant certain nor lasting And indeed this was the great stumbling Block that we met with in running from the Gallapagos Islands for the Island Cocos mentioned in my former Book Chap. 5. Pag. 111. But that part of Africa which lies between Cape Verd in 14 d. North and Cape Bayedore in 27. has commonly Northerly Winds or between the N. and N. E. very fresh gales therefore our Guinea Ships bound to Guinea strive to keep near that Shore and oft times make the Capes And being to the Southward of Cape Blanco which lyes in Lat. about 21. they are sometimes so troubled with the Sand which the Wind brings off Shore that they are scarce able to see one another Their Decks are all strewed with it and their Sails all red as if they were tann'd with the Sand that sticks to them it being of a reddish colour From Cape Verd to Cape St. Anns which is about 6 degrees North the Trade is between the E. and S. E. from Cape St. Anns to Cape Palmas in about 4 d. North the Trade is at S. W. from Cape Palmas to the Bite of Guinea which is at the bending of the Coast the Wind is at W. S. W. from this bending the Land begins to turn about to the South and from thence to Cape Lopos which is to the South of the Line the Trade is at S. S. W. as it is on all that Coast even to 30 degrees South This last Account I had from Mr. Canby who has made many Voyages to Guinea CHAP. III. Of the coasting Trade-Winds that shift The Coasts where the Winds shift Of the Winds between Gratia de Dios and Cape La Vela Of those on the Coast of Brazil At Panama About Natal And Cape Corientes And the Red-Sea From the Gulph of Persia to Cape Comorin Of the Monsoons in India Their Benefit for sailing from Place to Place Sea and Land Breezes serviceable for the same purpose By what helps long Voyages are made in an open Sea THE Coasts where the Winds do usually shift are some in the West Indies as that part of the Coast between Cape Gratia de Dios and Cape La Vela chiefly The Coast of Brazil the Bay of Panama in the South Seas and all the Coast of the East Indies even from the River Natal which is in the Lat. of 30 d. South on the East side of Africa beyond the Cape of good Hope to the North East Parts of China comprehending all the Bays between The Islands also have their Annual changes Of all these I shall treat in their order beginning first with that Coast which lyes between Cape Gratia de Dios and Cape La Vela And I the rather begin with this part first because this part of the West Indies is all that is subject to change neither is the change altogether so orderly or certain as the Monsoones in the East Indies or the shifting Winds on the Coast of Brazil The Common Trade-Wind on this Coast is between the N. E. and the East This Trade blows constantly from March till November but is often check'd with Tornadoes in the Months of May June July and August especially between the River of Darien and Costarica but to Wind-ward there is a more serene Air and a brisker Wind From October till March there are Westerly Winds not constant norviolent but blowing moderately sometimes 2 or 3 Days or a Week and then the Breez may blow again as long These Winds are most in December and January before and after these two Months the Trade-Wind is only check'd a Day or two near the full or change of the Moon and when the Westerly Winds blow longest and strongest on the Coast the Easterly Trade-Wind blows off at Sea as at other times Near Cape La Vela the true Trade blows within 8 or 10 Leagues off the Shore when the Westerly
my Course for Jamaica and found the N. E. Corner to lye in Lat. 18 d. North and in Longi West from Tobago 13 d. The Meridian distance from Tobago is 749 Miles VVest In our passage we saw no Land or Island till we made the N. E. end of Jamaica which lyeth in Longi VVest from the Meridian of Lundy 64 d. 10 m. and VVest from the City of Loango 82 d. 18 m. I shall only add that I am of Opinion that the Gallopagos Islands do lye a great deal further to the VVestward than our Hydrographers do place them according as Mr. Dampier hints p. 100 of his Voyage round the World I am Portbury Octob. 20. 1698. SIR Your most humble Servant John Covant Part of a second Letter from Captain Covant dated from Bristol Decemb. 10. 1697. LETTER II. SIR YOurs of the 6th Instant came to my Hands with the enclosed Queries which I shall endeavour to answer in part as far as my memory will assist me being now from home and at a distance from my Journals c. 1. The Common Trade-Winds on the Coast of Angola blow from the S. VV. to South till about 12 d. Long. from the Meridian of the Isle of Lundy 2. I have found them always in the same Quarter and not subject to shift in all the time I have used this Coast except that at a small distance off the shore they are sometimes a Point more to the VVestward 3. The Dry Season on this Coast I observed to be from the latter end of April to September tho' sometimes intermix'd with some pleasant showers of Rain I cannot be so punctual as to the time of the Wet Seasons 4. The true Sea-Breez I have commonly found here to be from W. S. W. to VV. by S. if it be fair Weather and the Land Breez is at E. by N. But if a Tornado happens it causes the Winds to shift all round the Compass and at last it settles at S. VV. which is the former true Trade Wind. I am yours John Covant CHAP. VI. Of Storms Storms less frequent but more fierce between the Tropicks Presages of their coming Of Norths the Times and Places where they blow Signs of their approach N. Banks A Chocolatta North. A North beneficial to Ships going from Campeachy to Jamaica A very uncommon way of wearing a Ship in a North. Of Souths the Times and Places where they Blow A Description of a South at Jamaica and at the Bay of Campeachy Much Fish kill'd by that Storm Of Hurricanes A Description of a terrible one at Antegoe where abundance of Fish and Sea Fowles were destroyed by it The difference between North Banks and the Clouds before an Hurricane the latter adorned with radiant Colours Tuffoons in the East-Indies the same with Hurricanes in the West Of Monsoons in the East-Indies A Storm called by the Portuguese the Elephanta which is the violentest Monsoon of that Season STorms within the Tropicks are generally known to us by some Name or other to distinguish them from other common Winds and though Storms are not so frequent there as they are in Latitudes nearer the Poles yet are they nevertheless expected yearly in their proper Months and when they do come they blow exceeding fierce though indeed some years they do not come at all or at least do not blow with that fierceness as at other times And as these Winds are commonly very fierce so are they but of a short continuance in comparison with Storms that we meet with in higher Latitudes In the West Indies there are three sorts viz. Norths Souths and Hurricanes In the East-Indies there are only two sorts viz. Monsoones and Tuffoones All these sorts of violent Storms except the Norths are expected near one time of the year and this is taken notice of by those that have been in any of them that they give certain Presages of their being at hand several hours before they come Norths are violent Winds that frequently blow in the Bay of Mexico from October till March They are chiefly expected near the full or change of the Moon all that time of the year but they are most violent in December and January These Winds are not confined to the Bay of Mexico only but there they are most frequent and rage with the greatest Violence They blow on the North side of Cuba very fierce too and in the Gulph of Florida as also about Hispaniola Jamaica c. and in the Channel between Jamaica and Portabel and in all the West Indian Sea between the Islands and the Main as high as the Island Trinidado But from Jamaica Eastward except on the North side of the Island Hispaniola they blow no harder than a pretty brisk Sea Wind. They are here at W. N. W. or N. W. though in the Bay of Mexico they blow strongest at N. N. W. and this is the Season of Westerly Winds in these East parts of the West-Indies as I have before noted in the third Chapter of this Discourse I shall be most particular of them that blow in the Bay of Mexico and what Signs they give us before hand Commonly before a North the Weather is vety serene and fair the Sky clear and but little Wind and that too veering from its proper Point or the common Trade Wind of the Coast and breathing gently at S. at S. W. and West a Day or two before the North comes The Sea also gives notice of a Storm by an extraordinary and long Ebb. For a Day or two before a North there will be hardly any discernable Flood but a constant ebbing of the Sea And the Sea Fowls also before a Storm do commonly hover over the Land which they do not at other times use to do in such great flights and numbers All these Signs concurring may give any Man notice of an approaching Storm but the greatest and most remarkable Sign of a North is a very black Cloud in the N. W. rising above the Horizon to about 10 or 12 degrees the upper edge of the Cloud appears very even and smooth and when once the upper part of the Cloud is 6 8 10 or 12 degrees high there it remains in that even form parallel to the Horizon without any motion and this sometimes 2 or 3 Days before the Storm comes At other times not above 12 or 14 hours but never less This Cloud lying so near the Horizon is not seen but in the Mornings or Evenings at least it does not appear so black as then this is called by English Seamen a North Bank and when ever we see such a Cloud in that part of the World and in the Months before mentioned we certainly provide for a Storm and though sometimes it may happen that such a Cloud may appear several Mornings and Evenings and we may not feel the effects of it or but very little yet we always provide against it for a North never comes without such a foreboding Cloud But if the VVinds
the Eastermost Land of the Continent of America The one has only an eddy Wind which seems to me to be the Effect of two contrary Winds The other Coast lies open to the Trade and never wants a Breez And the former is troubled with Tornadoes and violent Rains during the wet Season which is May June July August and September but the extreamest wet Months are July and August when it rains in a manner continually April and October also sometimes are wet Months The other Coast on the American Continent which lyes open to the E. and N. E. or S. E. and which enjoys the freer Trade-Wind is less subject to Rain only as it lyes near the Line it has its part but not to excess nor in any comparison with Guinea And as the Line is to the N. of it so its wet Months are from October till April and the dry Season from April to October And these Seasons reach even to 6 or 7 degrees North of the Line which I do not know to be so in any other part of the World again Indeed Cape Lopes in Guinea is in one degree South yet participates of the same Weather that the rest of Guinea has which lies to the North of the Line Now the Reason why Europeans do account the dry Season Summer and the wet Season Winter is because the dry Season is their Harvest time especially in our Plantations where we chiefly make Sugar for then the Canes are as yellow as Gold They have then indeed less juce but that little there is is very sweet Whereas in the wet Season tho' the Canes are ripe and come to their Maturity yet do they not yield such quantities of Sugar neither is it so good though the pains in boiling it be also greater Therefore in Northern Climates as all our Plantations are in they commonly begin to work about making of Sugar at Christmas after the dry Season has brought the Canes to a good perfection But in South Climates as on the Coast of Brazil they begin to work in July Some Places there are in North Latitudes also near the Line where the Weather bears time with the Seasons in South Lat. as at Suranam which tho' it is in North Latitude yet are the Seasons there the same as in South Latitudes but I know not such another instance any where And though the dry Season is the time to gather in the Canes and the wet Season to plant yet are they not so limited as to make use only of these Seasons for either but do it chiefly for their best convenience for they may plant at any time of the Year and that with good success especially after a moderate shower of Rain which often happens even in the dry Seasons But I must proceed I have said before that Bays have greater Quantities of Rain than Head-Lands The Bay of Campeachy is a good Instance of this for the Rains are very great there especially in the Months of July and August On the contrary the Coast from Cape Catoch to Cape Condecedo which lies more exposed to the Trade has not near the Rains as the Bay of Campeachy hath The Bay of Honduras also is very wet and all that bending Coast from Cape Gratia de Dios even to Carthagena But on the Coast of Carraccos and about Cape La Vela where the Breezes are more brisk the Weather is more moderate Whereas in those little Bays between there is still a difference For in the Bay of Mericaya which lies a little to the East of Cape La Vela there is much more Rain than at or near the Cape The Bay of Panama also will furnish us with a proof of this by its immoderate Rains especially the South side of it even from the Gulph of St. Michael to Cape St. Francis the Rains there are from April till November but in June July and August they are most violent There are many small Bays also West from the Bay of Panama which have their shares of these wet Seasons as the Gulph of Dulce Caldera Bay Amapala c. but to the West of that where the Coast runs more plain and even there are not such wet Seasons yet many times very violent Tornadoes The East Indies also has many Bays that are subject to very violent Rains as the Bay of Tonqueen that of Siam the bottom and the East side of the Bay of Bengall But on the Coast of Coromandel which is the West side of that Bay the Weather is more moderate that being an even plain low Coast. But on the Coast of Mallabar which is on the West side of that Promontory the Land is high and mountainous there are violent Rains Indeed the West sides of any Continents are wetter than the East sides the Coast of Peru and Africa only excepted in the former of which the dryness may be occasioned as is said before by the height of the Andes And 't is probable that the violence of the Rains near those Mountains falls chiefly on the East sides of them and seldom reaches to their Tops which yet if the Rains do they may there be broke in pieces and reach no further For among other Observations I have taken notice that Mountains are supplied with more Rains than low Lands I mean the low Land bordering on the Sea As for instance the South side of Jamaica beginning at Leganea and from thence away to the Westward as far as Black River including all the plain Land and Savannahs about St. Jago de la Vega Old Harbour and Withy wood Savannahs This is a plain level Country for many Miles lying near East and West having the Sea on the South and bounded with Mountains on the North. Those Mountains are commonly supplied with Rain before the low Lands I have known the Rains to have begun there three Weeks before any has fallen in the plain Country bordering on the Sea yet every day I have observed very black Clouds over the Mountains and have heard it thunder there And those very Clouds have seemed by their Motion to draw towards the Sea but have been check'd in their Course and have either returned towards the Mountains again or else have spent themselves before they came from thence and so have vanished away again to the great grief of the Planters whose Plantations and Cattle have sufferd for want of a little Moisture Nay these Tornadoes have been so nigh that the Sea Breez has dyed away and we have had the Wind fresh out of the Clouds yet they have vanished and yielded no Rain to the low parch'd Lands And I think that the want of seasonable Showrs is one of the greatest Inconveniencies that this part of the Country suffers for I have known in some very dry Years that the Grass in the Savannahs has been burned and withered for want of Rain and the Cattle have perished thereby for want of Food The Plantations also have suffered very much by it but such dry Seasons
of the Trade Winds I shall instance Barbadoes for one and all the Carribbes may as well be included The greater Islands as Hispaniola Jamaica and Cuba have only some particular Capes or head-Head-Lands exposed to Currents as Cape Tiberoon on Hispaniola Point Pedro and the N. E. Point of Jamaica Cape de Cruz Cape Corientes and Cape Antonios on Cuba But of all the Islands in the West Indies there are none more sensible of Currents than Corrisao Aruba nor any Capes on the Continent so remarkable for Currents as Cape Roman which shoots out against the Sea betweenthose two Places as also Cape Coquibaco and Cape La Vela to Leeward all three on the same Head-Land which shoots forth far without any other Land on the Coast. There is no such Head-Land till you come to Cape Gratia de Dios which is about 260 Leagues to Leeward Indeed to the East-ward there is Land that trends out almost so far within 150 Leagues of it Viz. The Island Trinidado and the Land against it and there also are great Currents But I shall first speak of the Currents between Cape La Vela and Cape Gratia de Dios. The Currents at Cape La Vela do seldom shift therefore Ships that ply to Wind-ward to get about it do not ply near the shore but stand off to Sea till they come in sight of Hispaniola and then back again till within about 6 or 8 Leagues of the Cape but not nearer But in the Westerly Wind-Season which is from October till March Ships often meet Westerly Winds that last two or three Days with which they may run to the Eastward without any trouble Between Cape La Vela and Cape Gratia de Dios the Currents are much different from what they are against the Cape and this seems to proceed from the make of the Land for the shore between the two Capes runs into the Southward making a great Bay And this Bay affords more varieties of Winds and Currents than any one part of the West Indies besides Here in the Westerly Wind-Season the Current sets to the Westwards constantly but sometimes stronger than at other times At about four Leagues off shore you find it and so it continues till you are 20 25 or 30 Leagues off Beyond that you meet with an Easterly Wind and if there is any Current it runs also to the Westward therefore Ships that are bound to the Westward must run off to Sea Thirty or Forty Leagues to get a Wind or else if they have but a little way to go they must ply close under the shore that so they may Anchor when they please Otherwise they will be carried away to the Eastward Fourteen or Sixteen Leagues in a Nights time and that too though they have a faint Easterly Wind as frequently they meet with though 't is the Westerly Wind-Season To the East of Cape Roman as high as the Island Trinidado you meet only a soaking faint Current setting to the Westward except only near such places as shoot out farthest into the Sea as about the Testegos which are small Islands lying to Wind-ward of the Island Margarita Between those Islands and the Main you meet with a pretty strong Current therefore it is hard getting to the East-ward there but on all the Coast between Cape Roman and the Head-Land shooting out towards the Testegos you may ply up with the Land and Sea-Breezes From thence till you come as high as the East-end of Trinidado Isle you meet with an extraordinary strong Current From the East-end of Trinidado till you come to Surinam though you meet an Easterly Current yet 't is possible to beat it up with the Land and Sea-Breezes From Surianam also to Cape Blanco you may turn it up though to be sure you 'l meet with Currents setting to the West except near the Full of the Moon and then on all the Coasts before-mentioned we commonly meet with Currents setting to the Eastward at least then it slackens and stands still if it doth not run to the East-ward But when you are come as far to the East as Cape Blanco on the North of Brazil you meet with a Current always against you and so from thence Southerly as far as Cape St. Augustine There is no dealing with this Promontory for it shoots out so far into the Sea and thereby lies so exposed to the Sea-Breezes and the Currents that soak down between Africa and Brazil that it is quite contrary to reason to think there should not always be a strong Current setting to the N. W. I have before hinted That in all places where the Trade blows we find a Current setting with the Wind which is not so perceptible in the wide Sea as nearer the Shores yet even there the force of the Winds constantly blowing one way may and probably does move the surface of the Water along with it From hence it may be inferred that the Southerly Winds on the Coast of Africa and the true Trade between it and Brazil gently move the surface of the Sea with it and the Trade being mostly at S. E. drives the Sea to the Northward slanting in on the Coast of Brazil which being there stop'd by the Land bends its Course Northerly towards Cape St. Augustine And after it has doubled that great Promontory it falls away more gently towards the Coast of Suranam and from thence towards the West Indies For after it has doubled that Promontory it has more room to spread it self and thereby becomes weaker in motion being agitated by the Trade-winds which to the North of the Line we find commonly blowing at E. N. E. and this still bears the Sea slanting down along the Coast to the Westward And probably 't is for this Reason that we find the Current setting strongest near those Head-Lands before-mentioned Whereas at Barbadoes and other of the Caribee Islands we find only a soaking Current such as seems to arise only from the constancy of the Trade-winds blowing there and not from an original Current from the South part of the Atlantick which as I said before doubles about Cape St. Augustine and so Coasts along pretty nigh the shore The Currents about the Island Trinidado and at Currisao and Aruba as also between them and Cape Roman seem to indicate as much The Currents also between Cape Roman and Cape La Vela indicate the same From Cape La Vela the Currents set still to the Westward towards Cape Gratia de Dios but in a direct Line and not borrowing or slanting in towards the shore For as I said before it is a large Bay and Currents commonly set from one Head-Land to another so that Bays have seldom any or if they have they are only Counter Currents And these Counter Currents too do set from one Point to another without interfering with the little Bays between And 't is also very probable that these Counter Currents such as we meet with in this Bay in their Seasons after they have
and those of our Colonies abroad yet without neglecting others that occurr'd And it may suffice me to have given such Names and Descriptions as I could I shall leave to those of more leisure and opportunity the trouble of comparing these with those which other Authors have designed The Reader will find as he goes along some References to an Appendix which I once designed to this Book as to a Chapter about the Winds in different parts of the World to a Description of the Bay of Campeachy in the West Indies where I lived long in a former Voyage and to a particular Chorographical Description of all the South Sea Coast of America partly from a Spanish MSS and partly from my own and other Travellers Observations beside those contained in this Book But such an Appendix would have swelled it too unreasonably and therefore I chose rather to publish it hereafter by its self as opportunity shall serve And the same must be said also as to a particular Voyage from Achin in the Isle of Sumatra to Tonquin Malacca c. which should have been inserted as a part of this General one but it would have been too long and therefore omitting it for the present I have carried on this next way from Sumatra to England and so made the Tour of the World correspondent to the Title For the better apprehending the Course of the Voyage and the Situation of the Places mentioned in it I have caused several Maps to be engraven and some particular Draughts of my own Composure Among them there is in the Map of the American Isthmus a new Scheme of the adjoining Bay of Panama and its Islands which to some may seem superfluous after that which Mr Ringrose hath published in the History of the Buccaneers and which he offers as a very exact Draught I must needs disagree with him in that and doubt not but this which I here publish will be found more agreeable to that Bay by any who shall have opportunity to examine it for it is a Contraction of a larger Map which I took from several Stations in the Bay itself The Reader may judge how well I was able to do it by my several Traverses about it mentioned in this Book those particularly which are described in the 7th Chapter which I have caused to be marked out with a pricked Line as the Course of my Voyage is generally in all the Maps for the Readers more easy tracing it I have nothing more to add but that there are here and there some mistakes made as to expression and the like which will need a favourable Correction as they occur upon Reading For instance the Log of Wood lying out at some distance from the sides of the Boats described at Guam and parallel to their Keel which for distinctions sake I have called the little Boat might more clearly and properly have been called the side Log or by some such Name for though fashioned at the bottom and ends Boat-wise yet it is not hollow at top but solid throughout In other places also I may not have expressed my self so fully as I ought and upon a Review I find there are several escapes either of mine or the Printers such as I have thought any thing considerable I have corrected in a Table of Errata and for any other faults I leave the Reader to the joint use of his Judgment and Candour THE CONTENTS THE Introduction containing the Author's Departure from England into the West Indies and the South Seas to the time of his leaving Captain Sharp Chap. I. His Return out of the South Seas to his Landing at the Isthmus of America II. His Return by Land over the Isthmus III. His Traverses among the West India Islands and Coasts and arrival in Virginia IV. His Departure for the South Seas again his touching at the Islands of Cape Verd and the African Coast and Arrival at the Isle of John Fernando in the South Seas V. His Course thence Northward to the Isles Lobos and Gallapagos to Caldera Bay Rio Lexa and Amapalla in the K. of Mexico VI. He goes back towards Peru to the Isle Plata Point Santa Hellena Manta Paita Lobos Puna Guiaquil and Plata again VII His Progress Northward again to the R. Saint Jago Tomaco the Isle Galleo I. Gorgonia the Pearl Isles c. in the Bay of Panama VIII He proceeds along the Mexican Coast to the Keys of Quibo Ria Lexa and the Harbour of Guatulco IX He Coasts along to Acapulco Petaplan Estapa Colima Sallagua Cape Corrientes thence to the Isles of Chametly Bay of Valderas Isles of Pontique other Isles of Chametly Massaclan Rosario R. Saint Jago Santa Pecaque Isles of Santa Maria Valderas and Cape Corrientes again X. He stands over the Southern Ocean for the East Indies and arrives at Guam one of the Ladrone Ishes XI His arrival at Mindanao one of the Philippine Islands and of its Natural State XII The Political State of Mindanao XIII Occurrences during the Authors stay at Mindanao XIV He departs towards Manila in the Isle of Luconia touching at Bat Island and the Isle of Mindora and leaving Luconia he goes to Pulo Condore on the Coast of Cambodia to Pulo Uby in the Bay of Siam and to Pulo Condore again XV. He goes to the I. of St. John on the Coast of China to the Isles Piscadores near Formosa and the Bashee or 5 Islands between Formosa and Luconia called Orange Monmouth Grafton Bashee and Goat Isles XVI He Coasts along the East side of Luconia Mindanao and other of the Philippines and touching at the I. Celebes and Callasusung in the I. of Bouton he arrives at New Holland XVII He goes thence touches at the I. Triste and another and steering along the West Coast of Sumatra arrives at the I. of Nicobar where he stays ashore and the Ship departs XVIII He stands ever from thence in an open Boat to Passange Jonca and thence to Achin and after several Traverses comes to Bencouli all on the I. of Sumatra XIX He Ships himself for England and arrives at the Cape of Good Hope XX. His departure thence to the I. Santa Hellena and Arrival in the Downs MAP OF THE WORLD Shewing the Course of M R DAMPIERS Voyage Round it From 1679 to 1691. Mr. William Dampier's VOYAGE ROUND THE Terrestrial Globe The Introduction The Authors Departure from England and arrival in Jamaica His first going over the Isthmus of America into the South Seas his Coasting along Peru and Chili and back again to his parting with Captain Sharp near the Isle of Plata in order to return over Land I First set out of England on this Voyage at the beginning of the year 1679 in the Loyal Merchant of London bound for Jamaica Captain Knapman Commander I went a Passenger designing when I came thither to go from thence to the Bay of Campeachy in the Gulph of Mexico to cut Log-wood where in a former Voyage I had spent
big as a Turkey wherewith we treated our Guides for we brought no Provision with us This night our last Slave run away The eleventh day we marched 10 mile farther and built Hutts at night but went supperless to bed The twelfth in the morning we crossed a deep River passing over it on a Tree and marched 7 mile in a low swampy ground and came to the side of a great deep River but could not get over We built Hutts upon its Banks and lay there all night upon our Barbecu's or frames of Sticks raised about 3 foot from the ground The thirteenth day when we turned out the River had overflowed its Banks and was 2 foot deep in our Hutts and our Guides went from us not telling us their intent which made us think they were returned home again Now we began to repent our haste in coming from the last settlements for we had no food since we came from thence Indeed we got Macaw-berries in this place wherewith we satisfied our selves this day though coursly The fourteenth day in the morning betimes our Guides came to us again and the Waters being fallen within their bounds they carry'd us to a Tree that stood on the Bank of the River and told us if we could fell that Tree cross it we might pass if not we could pass no further Therefore we set two of the best Ax-men that we had who fell'd it exactly cross the River and the bows just reached over on this we passed very safe We afterwards crossed another River three times with much difficulty and at 3 a Clock in the afternoon we came to an Indian settlement where we met a drove of Monkeys and kill d 4 of them and stayed here all night having marched this day 6 miles Here we got Plantains enough and a kind reception of the Indian that lived here all alone except one boy to wait on him The fifteenth day when we set out the kind Indian and his boy went with us in a Canoa and set us over such places as we could not ford and being past those great Rivers he returned back again having helped us at least 2 mile We marched afterwards 5 mile and came to large Plantain walks where we took up our quarters that night we there fed plentifully on Plantains both ripe and green and had fair weather all the day and night I think these were the largest Plantains walks and the biggest Plantains that ever I saw but no house near them We gathered what we pleased by our Guides orders The sixteenth day we marched 3 mile and came to a large settlement where we abode all day Not a man of us but wisht the Journey at an end our Feet being blistered and our Thighs stript with wading through so many Rivers the way being almost continually through Rivers or pathless Woods In the afternoon five of us went to seek for game and kill'd 3 Monkeys which we drest for Supper Here we first began to have fair Weather which continued with us till we came to the North Seas The eighteenth day we set out at 10 a Clock and the Indians with 5 Canoas carried us a league up a River and when we landed the kind Indians went with us and carried our burthens We marched 3 mile farther and then built our Hutts having travelled from the last settlements 6 miles The nineteenth day our Guides lost their way and we did not march above 2 miles The twentieth day by 12 a Clock we came to Cheapo River The Rivers we crost hitherto run all into the South Seas and this of Cheapo was the last we met with that run that way Here an old man who came from the last settlements distributed his burthen of Plantains amongst us and taking his leave returned home Afterward we forded the River and marched to the foot of a very high Mountain where we lay all night This day we marched about 9 miles The 21st day some of the Indians returned back and we marched up a very high mountain being on the top we went some miles on a ridge and steep on both sides then descended a little and came to a fine Spring where we lay all night having gone this day about 9 miles the weather still very fair and clear The 22d day we marched over another very high Mountain keeping on the ridge 5 miles When we came to the North end we to our great comfort saw the Sea then we descended and parted our selves into 3 Companies and lay by the side of a River which was the first we met that runs into the North Sea The 23d day we came through several large Plantain walks and at 10 a Clock came to an Indians habitation not far from the North Sea Here we got Canoas to carry us down the River Conception to the Sea side having gone this day about 7 miles We found a great many Indians at the mouth of this River They had settled themselves here for the benefit of Trade with the Privateers and their Commodities were Yams Potatoes Plantains Sugar Canes Fowls and Eggs. These Indians told us that there had been a great many English and French Ships here which were all gone but one Barco-longo a French Privateer that lay at La Sound 's Key or Island This Island is about 3 leagues from the mouth of the River Conception and is one of the Samballoes a range of Islands reaching for about 20 leagues from point Samballas to Golden-Island Eastward These Islands or Keys as we call them were first made the Rendezvous of Privateers in the year 1679 being very convenient for careening and had names given to some of them by the Captains of the Privateers as this La-Sound s Key particularly Thus we finished our Journey from the South Sea to the North in 23 days in which time by my account we travelled 110 miles crossing some very high Mountains but our common march was in the Valleys among deep and dangerous Rivers At our first landing in this Country we were told that the Indians were our Enemies we knew the Rivers to be deep the wet season to be coming in yet excepting those we left behind we lost but one man who was drowned as I said Our first landing place on the South Coast was very disadvantageous for we travelled at least 50 miles more than we need to have done could we have gone up Cheapo River or Santa Maria River for at either of these places a man may pass from Sea to Sea in 3 days time with ease The Indians can do it in a day and a half by which you may see how easy it is for a party of men to travel over I must confess the Indians did assist us very much and I question whether ever we had got over without their assistance because they brought us from time to time to their Plantations where we always got Provision which else we should have wanted But if a party of 500 or 600 men or more were
is a Pond of brackish Water which sometimes Privateers use instead of better there is likewise good riding by it About a league from this are two other Islands not 200 yards distant from each other yet a deep Channel for Ships to pass through They are both overgrown with red Mangrove Trees which Trees above any of the Mangroves do flourish best in wet drowned Land such as these two Islands are only the East point of the Westernmost Island is dry Sand without Tree or Bush On this point we careened lying on the South side of it The other Islands are low and have red Mangroves and other Trees on them Here also Ships may ride but no such place for careening as where we lay because at that place Ships may hale close to the shore and if they have but four Guns on the point may secure the Channel and hinder any Enemy from coming near them I observ'd that within among the Islands was good riding in many places but not without the Islands except to the West-ward or S. West of them For on the East or N. E. of these Islands the common Trade-Wind blows and makes a great Sea and to the South-ward of them there is no ground under 70 80 or 100 fathom close by the Land After we had filled what Water we could from hence we set out again in April 1682. and came to Salt-Tortuga so called to distinguish it from the shoals of Dry Tortugas near Cape Florida and from the Isle of Tortugas by Hispaniola which was called formerly French Tortugas though not having heard any mention of that name a great while I am apt to think it is swallow'd up in that of Petit-Guavres the chief Garrison the French have in those parts This Island we arrived at is pretty large uninhabited and abounds with Salt It is in Lat. 11 degrees North and lyeth West and a little Northerly from Margarita an Island inhabited by the Spaniards strong and wealthy it is distant from it about 14 leagues and 17 or 18 from Cape Blanco on the Main A Ship being within these Islands a little to the South-ward may see at once the Main Margarita and Tortuga when it is clear weather The East end of Tortuga is full of rugged bare broken Rocks which stretch themselves a little way out to Sea At the S. E. part is an indifferent good Road for Ships much frequented in peaceable times by Merchant-ships that come hither to lade Salt in the months of May June July and August For at the East end is a large Salt-pond within 200 paces of the Sea The Salt begins to kern or grain in April except it is a dry season for it is observed that rain makes the Salt kern I have seen above 20 Sail at a time in this road come to lade Salt and these Ships coming from some of the Caribbe Islands are always well stored with Rum Sugar and Lime-juice to make Punch to hearten their Men when they are at work getting and bringing aboard the Salt and they commonly provide the more in hopes to meet with Privateers who resort hither in the aforesaid months purposely to keep a Christmas as they call it being sure to meet with Liquor enough to be merry with and are very liberal to those that treat them Near the West end of the Island on the South side there is a small Harbour and some fresh Water That end of the Island is full of shrubby Trees but the East end is rocky and barren as to Trees producing only course Grass There are some Goats on it but not many and Turtle or Tortise come upon the sandy Bays to lay their Eggs and from them the Island hath its Name There is no riding any where but in the Road where the Salt-Ponds are or in the Harbour At this Isle we thought to have sold our Sugar among the English Ships that come hither for Salt but failing there we design'd for Trinidada an Island near the Main inhabited by the Spaniards tolerably strong and wealthy but the Current and Easterly Winds hindering us we passed through between Margarita and the Main and went to Blanco a pretty large Island almost North of Margarita about 30 leagues from the Main and in 11 d. 50 m. North Lat. It is a flat even low uninhabited Island dry and healthy most Savanah of long Grass and hath some Trees of Lignum Vitae growing in Spots with shrubby Bushes of other Wood about them It is plentifully stored with Guano s which are an Animal like a Lizard but much bigger The body is as big as the small of a mans leg and from the hind quarter the tail grows tapering to the end which is very small If a Man takes hold of the tail except very near the hind quarter it will part and breakoff in one of the joints and the Guano will get away They lay Eggs as most of those amphibious creatures do and are very good to eat Their flesh is much esteemed by Privateers who commonly dress them for their sick men for they make very good Broath They are of divers colours as almost black dark brown light brown dark green light green yellow and speckled They all live as well in the Water as on Land and some of them are constantly in the Water and among Rocks These are commonly black Others that live in swampy wet ground are commonly on Bushes and Trees these are green But such as live in dry ground as here at Blanco are commonly yellow yet these also will live in the Water and are sometimes on Trees The Road is on the N. W. end against a small Cove or little sandy Bay There is no riding any where else for it is deep water and steep close to the Land There is one small Spring on the West side and there are sandy Bays round the Island where Turtle or Tortoise come up in great abundance going ashore in the night These that frequent this Island are called green Turtle and they are the best of that sort both for largeness and sweetness of any in all the West Indies I would here give a particular description of these and other sorts of Turtle in these Seas but because I shall have occasion to mention some other sorts of Turtle when I come again into the South Seas that are very different from all these I shall there give a general account of all these several sorts at once that the difference between them may be the better discerned Some of our modern Descriptions speak of Goats on this Island I know not what there may have been formerly but there are none now to my certain knowledge for my self and many more of our Crew have been all over it Indeed these parts have undergone great changes in this last age as well in places themselves as in their Owners and Commodities of them particularly Nombre de Dios a City once famous and which still retains a considerable name in some late
Accounts is now nothing but a Name For I have lain ashore in the place where that City stood but it is all overgrown with Wood so as to leave no sign that any Town hath been there We staid at the Isle of Blanco not above 10 days and then went back to Salt-Tortuga again where Captain Yanky parted with us and from thence after about 4 days all which time our men were drunk and quarrelling we in Captain Wright's Ship went to the Coast of Caraccos on the Main Land This Coast is upon several accounts very remarkable 'T is a continu'd tract of high Ridges of Hills and small Valleys intermix'd for about â—…o leagues stretching East and West but in such manner that the Ridges of Hills and the Valleys alternately run pointing upon the shore from South to North the Valleys some of them about 4 or 5 others not above 1 or 2 furlongs wide and in length from the Sea scarce any of them above 3 or 4 mile at most there being a long Ridge of Mountains at that distance from the Sea-Coast and in a manner parallel to it that joins those shorter Ridges and closeth up the South end of the Valleys which at the North ends of them lye open to the Sea and make so many little Sandy Bays that are the only Landing-places on all the Coast. Both the main Ridge and these shorter Ribs are very high Land so that 3 or 4 leagues off at Sea the Valleys scarce appear to the Eye but all looks like one great Mountain From the Isles of Roda's about 15 and from the Isle of Aves about 20 leagues off we see this Coast very plain from on board our Ships yet when at Anchor on this Coast we cannot see those Isles tho again from the tops of these Hills they appear as if at no great distance like so many Hillocks in a Pond These Hills are barren except the lower sides of them that are cover'd with some of the same rich black Mould that fills the Valleys and is as good as I have seen In some of the Valleys there is a strong red Clay but in the general they are extremely fertil well watered and inhabited by Spaniards and their Negro's They have Maiz and Plantains for their support with Indian Fowls and some Hogs But the main product of these Valleys and indeed the only Commodity it vends are the Cacao-Nuts of which the Chocolate is made The Cacao-Tree grows no where in the North Seas but in the Bay of Campechy on Costa Rica between Portabel and Nicaragua chiefly up Carpenters River and on this Coast as high as the Isle of Trinidada In the South Seas it grows on the River of Guiaquil a little to the Southward of the Line and in the Valley of Collina on the South side of the Continent of Mexico both which places I shall hereafter describe Besides these I am confident there is no place in the world where the Cacao grows except those in Jamaica of which there are now but few remaining of many and large Walks or Plantations of them found there by the English at their first arrival and since planted by them and even these though there is a great deal of pains and care bestowed on them yet seldom come to any thing being generally blighted The Nuts of this Coast of Caracco's though less than those of Costa Rica which are large flat Nuts yet are better and fatter in my opinion being so very oily that we are forced to use Water in rubbing them up and the Spaniards that live here instead of parching them to get off the Shell before they pound or rub them to make Chocolate do in a manner burn them to dry up the Oil for else they say it would fill them too full of blood drinking Chocolate as they do 5 or 6 times a day My worthy Consort Mr. Ringrose commends most the Guiaquil Nut I presume because he had little knowledge of the rest for being intimately acquainted with him I know the course of his Travels and Experience But I am persuaded had he known the rest so well as I pretend to have done who have at several times been long used to and in a manner lived upon all the several sorts of them above mentioned he would prefer the Caraccos Nut before any other yet possibly the drying up of these Nuts so much by the Spaniards here as I said may lessen their Esteem with those Europeans that use their Chocolate ready rubb'd up so that we always chose to make it up our selves The Cacao-Tree hath a body about a foot and an half thick the largest sort and 7 or 8 foot high to the Branches which are large and spreading like an Oak with a pretty thick smooth dark-green leaf shap'd like that of a Plumb-Tree but larger The Nuts are inclosed in Cods as big as both a Mans fists put together At the broad end of which there is a small tough limber stalk by which they hang pendulous from the body of the Tree in all parts of it from top to bottom scattered at irregular distances and from the greater branches a little way up especially at the joints of them or parting 's where they hang thickest but never on the smaller boughs There may be ordinarily about 20 or 30 of these Cods upon a well-bearing Tree and they have 2 Crops of them in a year one in December but the best in June The Cod it self or Shell is almost half an inch thick neither spongy nor woody but of a substance between both brittle yet harder than the Rind of a Lemmon like which its surface is grained or knobbed but more course and unequal The Cods at first are of a dark Green but the side of them next the Sun of a Muddy Red. As they grow ripe the Green turns to a fine bright Yellow and the Muddy to a more lively beautiful Red very pleasant to the Eye They neither ripen nor are gather'd at once but for three weeks or a month when the Season is the Overseers of the Plantations go every day about to see which are turn'd yellow cutting at once it may be not above one from a Tree The Cods thus gathered they lay in several heaps to sweat and then bursting the Shell with their hands they pull out the Nuts which are the only substance they contain having no stalk or pith among them and excepting that these Nuts lye in regular rows like the grains of Maiz but sticking together and so closely stowed that after they have been once separated it would be hard to place them again in so narrow a compass There are generally near 100 Nuts in a Cod in proportion to the greatness of which for it varies the Nuts are bigger or less When taken out they dry them in the Sun upon Mats spread on the ground after which they need no more care having a thin hard skin of their own and much Oil which preserves them Salt water will
the Antients tell such stories if it be not I know no other that is and I leave the Reader to judge I have seen of these Sucking-fishes in great plenty in the Bay of Campechy and in all the Sea between that and the Coast of Caraccus as about those Islands particularly I have lately described Rocas Blanco Tortugas c. They have no scales and are very good meat We met nothing else worth remark in our Voyage to Virginia where we arrived in July 1682. That Country is so well known to our Nation that I shall say nothing of it nor shall I detain the Reader with the story of my own affairs and the troubles that befel me during about 13 months of my stay there but in the next Chapter enter immediately upon my second Voyage into the South Seas and round the Globe CHAP. IV. The Authors Voyage to the Isle of John Fernando in the South Seas He arrives at the Isles of Cape Verd. Isle of Sall its Salt-ponds The Flamingo and its remarkable Nest. Ambergriese where found The Isles of St. Nicholas Mayo St. Jago Fogo a burning Mountain with the rest of the Isles of Cape Verde Sherborough River on the Coast of Guinea The Commodities and Negroes there A Town of theirs describ'd Tornadoes Sharks Flying-fish A Sea deep and clear yet pale Isles of Sibble de Ward Small red Lobsters Streight Lo Mair States Island Cape Horn in Terra del Fuego Their Meeting with Captain Eaton in the South Seas and their going together to the Isle of John Fernando Of a Moskito man left there alone 3 Years His Art and Sagacity with that of other Indians The Island described The Savanahs of America Goats at John Fernando's Seals Sea-lions Snappers a sort of Fish Rock-fish The Bays and natural Strength of this Island BEing now entring upon the Relation of a New Voyage which makes up the main body of this Book proceeding from Virginia by the way of Terra del Fuego and the South Seas the East Indies and so on till my Return to England by the way of the Cape of Good Hope I shall give my Reader this short Account of my first entrance upon it Among those who accompanied Captain Sharp into the South Seas in our former expedition and leaving him there return d over Land as is said in the introduction and in the 1st and 2d Chapters there was one Mr. Cook an English Native of St. Christophers a Criole as we call all born of European Parents in the West Indies He was a sensible man and had been some years a Privateer At our joyning our selves with those Privateers we met at our coming again to the North Seas his lot was to be with Captain Yanky who kept Company for some considerable time with Captain Wright in whose Ship I was and parted with us at our 2d Anchoring at the Isle of Tortugas as I have said in the last Chapter After our parting this Mr. Cook being Quarter-master under Captain Yanky the second place in the Ship according to the Law of Privateers laid claim to a Ship they took from the Spaniards and such of Captain Yanky's men as were so disposed particularly all those who came with us over Land went aboard this Prize Ship under the new Captain Cook This distribution was made at the Isle of Vacca or the Isle of Ash as we call it and here they parted also such Goods as they had taken But Captain Cook having no Commission as Captain Yanky Captain Tristian and some other French Commanders had who lay then at that Island and they grutching the English such a Vessel they all joyn'd together plundered the English of their Ship Goods and Arms and turned them ashore Yet Captain Tristian took in about 8 or 10 of these English and carry'd them with him to Petit-Guavres of which number Captain Cook was one and Captain Davis another who with the rest found means to seize the Ship as she lay at Anchor in the Road Captain Tristian and many of his men being then ashore and the English sending ashore such French-men as remained in the Ship and were mastered by them though superior in number stood away with her immediately for the Isle of Vacca before any notice of this surprize could reach the French Governor of that Isle so deceiving him also by a Stratagem they got on board the rest of their Countrymen who had been left on that Island and going thence they took a Ship newly come from France laden with Wines They took also a Ship of good force in which they resolved to embark themselves and make a new Expedition into the South Seas to cruise on the Coast of Chili and Peru. But first they went for Virginia with their Prizes where they arrived the April after my coming thither The best of their Prizes carried 18 Guns this they fitted up there with Sails and every thing necessary for so long 〈◊〉 Voyage selling the Wines they had taken for such Provisions as they wanted My self and those of our Fellow-travellers over the Isthmus of America who came with me to Virginia the year before this most of which had since made a short Voyage to Carolina and were again return'd to Virginia resolved to join our selves to these new Adventurers and as many more engaged in the same design as made our whole Crew consist of about 70 Men. So having furnished our selves with necessary materials and agreed upon some particular Rules especially of Temperance and Sobriety by reason of the length of our intended Voyage we all went on board our Ship August 23. 1683. we sailed from Achamack in Virginia under the Command of Captain Cook bound for the South Seas I shall not trouble the Reader with an account of every days run but hasten to the less known parts of the World to give a description of them only relating such memorable accidents as hapned to us and such places as we touched at by the way We met nothing worth observation till we came to the Islands of Cape Verd except a terrible Storm which could not escape it This hapned in a few days after we left Virginia with a S. S. E. Wind just in our Teeth The Storm lasted above a week it drencht us all like so many drowned Rats and was one of the worst Storms I ever was in One I met with in the East-Indies was more violent 〈◊〉 the time but of not above 24 hours continuance After that Storm we had favourable Winds and good weather and in a short time we arriv d at the Island Sall which is one of the Eastermost of the Cape Verd Island Of these there are ten in number so considerable as to bear distinct names and they â—…ye several Degrees off from Cape Verd in Africk whence they receive that Appellation taking up about 5 deg of Longitude in breadth and about as many of Latitude in their length viz. from near 14 to 19 North. They are most inhabited
remainder of these Islands of Cape Verd are St. Antonio Sta. Lucia St. Vincente and Bona-Vista of which I know nothing considerable Our entrance among these Islands was from the North East for in our passage from Virginia we ran pretty far toward the Coast of Gualata in Africk to preserve the Trade-wind lest we should be born off too much to the Westward and so lose the Islands We anchored at the South of Sall and passing by the South of St. Nicholas anchored again at Mayo as hath been said where we made the shorter stay because we could get no Flesh among the Inhabitants by reason of the regret they had at their Governour and his Mens being carried away by Captain Bond. So leaving the Isles of Cape Verd we stood away to the Southward with the Wind at E. N. E. intending to have touched no more till we came to the Streights of Magellan But when we came into the lat of 10 deg North we met the Winds at S. by W. and S. S. W. therefore we altered our resolutions and steered away for the Coast of Guinea and in few days came to the Mouth of the River of Sherboro which is an English Factory lying South of Sierra Liona We had one of our Men who was well acquainted there and by his direction we went in among the Shoals and came to an anchor Sherboro was a good way from us so I can give no account of the place or our Factory there save that I have been informed that there is a considerable Trade driven there for a sort of Red Wood for Dying which grows in that Country very plentifully 't is called by our people Cam-wood A little within the shore where we anchored was a Town of Negroes Natives of this Coast. It was skreen'd from our sight by a large Grove of Trees that grew between them and the shore but we went thither to them several times during the 3 or 4 days of our stay here to refresh our selves and they as often came aboard us bringing with them Plantains Sugar-canes Palm-wines Rice Fowls and Honey which they sold us They were no way shy of us being well acquainted with the English by reason of our Guinea-Factories and Trade This Town seem'd pretty large the Houses but low and ordinary but one great House in the midst of it where their chief men meet and receive Strangers and here they treated us with Palm-wine As to their Persons they are like other Negroes While we lay here we scrubb'd the bottom of our Ship and then fill'd all our Water-Casks and buying up two Puncheons of Rice for our Voyage we departed from hence about the middle of November 1683 prosecuting our intended course towards the Straights of Mágellan We had but little wind after we got out and very hot weather with some fierce Tornadoe's commonly rising out of the N. E. which brought Thunder Lightening and Rain These did not last long sometimes not a quarter of an hour and then the wind would shuffle about to the Southward again and fall flat calm for these Tornadoe's commonly come against the wind that is then blowing as our Thunder-Clouds are often observed to do in England but the Tornadoe's I shall describe more largely in my Chapter of Winds in the Appendix to this Book At this time many of our men were taken with Feavers yet we lost but one While we lay in the calms we caught several great Sharks sometimes 2 or 3 in a day and eat them all boyling and squeezing them dry and then stewing them with Vinegar Pepper c. for we had but little flesh aboard We took the benefit of every Tornado which came sometimes 3 or 4 in day and carried what Sail we could to get to the Southward for we had but little wind when they were over and those small winds between the Tornadoe's were much against us at S. by E. and S. S. E. till we past the Equinoctial Line which we crost about a degree to the Eastward of the Meridian of the Isle of St. Jago off the Cape-Verd Islands At first we could scarce lye S. W. but being got a degree to the Southward of the Line the wind veer'd more Easterly and then we stemm'd S. W. by S. and as we got farther to the Southward so the wind came about to the Eastward and freshened upon us In the Lat. of 3 S. we had the wind at E. in the Lat. of 5 we had it at E. S. E. where it stood a considerable time and blew a fresh top gallant gale We then made the best use of it steering on briskly with all the Sail we could make and this wind by the 18 of Jan. carried us into the Lat. of 36 South In all this time we met with nothing worthy remark not so much as a Fish except Flying Fish which have been so often described that I think it needless for me to do it Here we found the Sea much changed from its natural greenness to a white or palish colour which caused us to sound supposing we might strike ground For when ever we find the colour of the Sea to change we know we are not far from Land or shoals which stretch out into the Sea running from some Land But here we found no ground with 100 fathom Line I was this day at noon by reckoning 48 d. 50 m. West from the Lizard the variation by our morning amplitude 15 d. 50 m. East the variation increasing The 20 day one of our Chyrurgeons dyed much lamented because we had but one more for such a dangerous Voyage January 28th we made the Sibbel de Wards which are 3 Islands lying in the lat of 51 d. 25 m. South and longitude West from the Lizard in England by my account 57 d. 28 m. the variation here we found to be 23 d. 10 m. I had for a month before we came hither endeavoured to perswade Captain Cook and his Company to anchor at these Islands where I told them we might probably get water as I then thought and in case we should miss of it here yet by being good Husbands of what we had we might reach John Fernando's in the South Seas before our water was spent This I urged to hinder their designs of going through the Straights of Magellan which I knew would prove very dangerous to us the rather because our men being Privateers and so more wilful and less under command would not be so ready to give a watchful attendance in a passage so little known For altho these men were more under command than I had ever seen any Privateers yet I could not expect to find them at a minutes call in coming to an anchor or weighing Anchor beside if ever we should have occasion to moor or cast out two Anchors we had not a Boat to carry out or weigh an Anchor These Islands of Sible de Wards were so named by the Dutch They are all three rocky barren Islands
without any Tree only some Dildo-bushes growing on them and I do believe there is no Water on any one of them for there was no appearance of any Water The two Northernmost we could not come near but the Southermost we came close by but could not strike ground till within two Cables length of the shore and there found it to be foul rocky ground From the time that we were in 10 degrees South till we came to these Islands we had the Wind between E. N. E. and the N. N. E. fair weather and a brisk gale The day that we made these Islands we saw great sholes of small Lobsters which coloured the Sea Red in spots for a mile in compass and we drew some of them out of the Sea in our Water-Buckets They were no bigger than the top of a Mans little finger yet all their Claws both great and small like a Lobster I never saw any of this sort of Fish naturally red but here for ours on the English Coast which are black naturally are not red till they are boil'd neither did I ever any where else meet with any Fish of the Lobster shape so small as these unless it may be Shrimps or Prawns Captain Swan and Captain Eaton met also with shoals of this Fish in much the same Latitude and Longitude Leaving therefore the Sible de Ward Islands as having neither good Anchorage nor Water we sailed on directing our course for the Streights of Magellan But the Winds hanging in the westerbord and blowing hard oft put us by our Topsails so that we could not fetch it The 6th day of February we fell in with the Streights Le Mair which is very high Land on both sides and the Streights very narrow We had the Wind at N. N. W. a fresh gale and seeing the opening of the Streights we ran in with it till within four mile of the mouth and then it fell calm and we found a strong tide setting out of the Streights to the Northward and like to founder our Ship but whether flood or ebb I know not only it made such a short cockling Sea as if we had been in a race or place where two tides meet For it ran every way sometimes breaking in over our Waste sometimes over our Poop sometimes over our Bow and the Ship tossed like an Egg-shell so that I never felt such uncertain jerks in a Ship At 8 a clock in the evening we had a small Breez at W. N. W. and steered away to the Eastward intending to go round the States Island the East end of which we reached the next day by noon having a fresh breez all night The 7th day at noon being off the East End of States Island I had a good observation of the Sun and found my self in lat 54 deg 52 min. South At the East end of States Island are three small Islands or rather Rocks pretty high and white with the Dung of Fowls Wherefore having observed the Sun we haled up South designing to pass round to the Southward of Cape Horne which is the Southermost Land of Terra del Fuego The Winds hung in the western quarter betwixt the N. W. and the West so that we could not get much to the Westward and we never saw Terra del Fuego after that evening that we made the Streight Le Mair I have heard that there have been Smokes and Fires on Terra del Fuego not on the tops of Hills but in Plains and Valleys seen by those who have sailed through the Streights of Magellan supposed to be made by the Natives We did not see the Sun at rising or setting in order to take an amplitude after we left the Sibble de Wards till we got into the South Seas therefore I know not whether the variation increased any more or no. Indeed I had an observation of the Sun at noon in lat 59 deg 30 min. and we were then standing to the Southward with the Wind at W. by N. and that night the Wind came about more to the Southward of the West and we tackt I was then in lat 60 by reckning which was the farthest South latitude that ever I was in The 14th day of February being in lat 57. and to the West of Cape Horne we had a violent Storm which held us till the third day of March blowing commonly at S. W. and S. W. by W. and W. S. W. thick weather all the time with small drizling Rain but not hard We made a shift however to save 23 Barrels of Rain-water besides what we drest our Victuals withal March the third the Wind shifted at once and came about at South blowing a fierce gale of Wind soon after it came about to the Eastward and we stood into the South Seas The 9th day having an observation of the Sun not having seen it of late we found ourselves in lat 47 d. 10 m. and the variation to be but 15 d. 30 m. East The Wind stood at S. E. we had fair weather and a moderate gale and the 17th day we were in lat 36 by observation and then found the variation to be but 8 degrees East The 19th day when we looked out in the morning we saw a Ship to the Southward of us coming with all the Sail she could make after us we lay muzled to let her come up with us for we supposed her to be a Spanish Ship come from Baldivia bound to Lima we being now to the Northward of Baldivia and this being the time of the year when Ships that trade thence to Baldivia return home They had the same opinion of us and therefore made sure to take us but coming nearer we both found our mistakes This proved to be one Captain Eaton in a Ship sent purposely from London for the South Seas We hailed each other and the Captain came on board and told us of his actions on the Coast of Brazil and in the River of Plate He met Captain Swan one that came from England to trade here at the East Entrance into the Streights of Magellan and they accompanied each other through the Streights and were separated after they were through by the Storm before mentioned Both we and Captain Eaton being bound for John Fernando's Isle we kept company and we spared him Bread and Beef and he spared us Water which he took in as he passed through the Streights March the 22d 1684. we came in sight of the Island and the next day got in and anchored in a Bay at the South end of the Island in 25 fathom water not two Cables lengths from the shore We presently got out our Canoa and went ashore to see for a Moskito Indian whom we left here when we were chaced hence by three Spanish Ships in the year 1681. a little before we went to Arica Captain Watlin being then our Commander after Captain Sharp was turned out This Indian lived here alone above 3 years and altho he was several
and discovered also another Island about the same bigness 20 leagues to the Westward of this From those Goats these were propogated and the Island hath taken its name from this its first Discoverer who when he returned to Lima desired a Patent for it designing to settle here and it was in his second Voyage hither that he set ashore 3 or 4 Goats which have since by their increase so well stocked the whole Island But he could never get a Patent for it therefore it lies still destitute of Inhabitants though doubtless capable of maintaining 4 or 500 Families by what may be produced off the Land only I speak much within compass for the Savanahs would at present feed 1000 head of Cattle besides Goats and the Land being cultivated would probably bear Corn or Wheat and good Pease Yams or Patatoes for the Land in their Valleys and sides of the Mountains is of a good black fruitful mould The Sea about it is likewise very productive of its Inhabitants Seals swarm as thick about this Island as if they had no other place in the World to live in for there is not a Bay nor Rock that one can get ashore on but is full of them Sea Lyon's are here in great Companys and Fish particularly Snappers and Rock-fish are so plentiful that 2 men in an hours time will take with Hook and Line as many as will serve 100 men The Seals are a sort of Creatures pretty well known yet it may not be amiss to describe them They are as big as Calves the head of them like a Dog therefore call'd by the Dutch the Sea-hounds Under each Shoulder grows a long thick Fin These serve them to swim with when in the Sea and are instead of Legs to them when on the Land for raising their Bodies up on end by the help of these Fins or Stumps and so having their Tail-parts drawn close under them they rebound as it were and throw their bodies forward drawing their hinder-parts after them and then again rising up and springing forward with their fore-parts alternately they lie tumbling thus up and down all the while they are moving on Land From their Shoulders to their Tails they grow tapering like Fish and have two small Fins on each side the Rump which is commonly covered with their Fins These Fins serve instead of a Tail in the Sea and on Land they sit on them when they give suck to their young Their hair is of divers colours as black grey dun sported looking very sleek and pleasant when they come first out of the Sea For these at John Fernando s have fine thick short Furr the like I have not taken notice of any where but in these Seas Here are always thousands I might say possibly millions of them either sitting on the Bays or going and coming in the Sea round the Island which is covered with them as they lye at the top of the Water playing and sunning themselves for a mile or two from the Shore When they come out of the Sea they bleat like Sheep for their young and tho they pass through hundreds of others young ones before they come to their own yet they will not suffer any of them to suck The young ones are like Puppies and lie much ashore but when beaten by any of us they as well as the old ones will make toward the Sea and swim very swift and nimble tho on shore they lye very sluggishly and will not go out of our ways unless we beat them but snap at us A blow on the Nose soon kills them Large Ships might here load themselves with Seals skins and Trane-oyl for they are extraordinary fat Seals are found as well in cold as hot Climates and in the cold places they love to get on Lumps of Ice where they will lie and sun themselves as here on the Land They are frequent in the Northern parts of Europe and America and in the Southern parts of Africa as about the Cape of Good Hope and at the Streights of Magellan and though I never saw any in the West Indies but in the Bay of Campeachy at certain Islands called the Alceranes and at others called the Desartes yet they are over all the American Coast of the South Seas from Terra del Fuego up to the Equinoctial Line but to the North of the Equinox again in these Seas I never saw any till as far as 21 North Lat. Nor did I ever see any in the East Indies In general they seem to resort where there is plenty of Fish for that is their food and Fish such as they feed on as Cods Groopers c. are most plentiful on rocky Coasts and such is mostly this Western Coast of the South America as I shall further relate The Sea Lion is a large creature about 12 or 14 foot long The biggest part of his body is as big as a Bull it is shaped like a Seal but 6 times as big The Head is like a Lion's Head it hath a broad Face with many long Hairs growing about its Lips like a Cat. It has a great goggle Eye the Teeth inches long about the bigness of a Mans Thumb In Capt. Sharp's time some of our Men made Dice with them They have no Hair on their Bodies like the Seal they are of a dun colour and are all extraordinary fat one of them being cut up and boil'd will yeild a Hogshed of Oil which is very sweet and wholesome to fry Meat withal The lean Flesh is black and of a course grain yet indifferent good food They will lye a week at a time ashore if not disturbed Where 3 or 4 or more of them come ashore together they huddle one on another like Swine and grunt like them making a hideous noise They eat Fish which I believe is their common food The Snapper is a Fish made much like a Roach but a great deal bigger It hath a large Head and Mouth and great Gills The Back is of a bright Red the Belly of a Silver-colour The Scales are as broad as a Shilling The Snapper is excellent meat They are in many places in the West-Indies and the South-Seas I have not seen them any where beside The Rock-fish is called by Sea-men a Grooper the Spaniards call it a Baccalao which is the name for Cod because it is much like it It is rounder than the Snapper of a dark brown colour and hath small Scales no bigger than a Silver-penny This Fish is good sweet meat and is found in great plenty on all the Coast of Peru and Chili There are only two Bays in the whole Island where Ships may Anchor these are both at the East end and in both of them is a Rivolet of good fresh Water Either of these Bays may be fortified with little charge to that degree that 50 men in each may be able to keep off 1000 and there is no coming into these Bays from the West end but with great
Eaton in the Streights of Magellan the Spaniards of Baldivia were doubtless informed of us by him suspecting him also to be one of us tho he was not Upon this News the Viceroy of Lima sent Expresses to all the Sea Ports that they might provide themselves against our Assaults We immediately steered away for the Island Lobos which lieth in lat 6 deg 24 min. South lat I took the Elevation of it ashore with an Astrolabe and its 5 leagues from the Main it is called Lobos de la Mar to distinguish it from another that is not far from it and extremely like it called Lobos de la Terra for it lies nearer the Main Lobos or Lovos is the Spanish Name for a Seal of which there are great plenty about these and several other Islands in these Seas that go by this Name The 9th of May we arrived at this Isle of Lobos de la Mar and came to an anchor with our Prize This Lobos consists indeed of two little Islands each about a milâ—…und of an indifferent heighth a small Channel between fit for Boats only and several Rocks lying on the North side of the Islands a little way from shore There is a small Cove or Sandy Bay sheltred from the Winds at the West end of the Eastermost Island where Ships may Careen The rest of the shore as well round the 2 Islands as between them is a Rocky Coast consisting of small Cliffs Within Land they are both of them partly Rocky and partly Sandy Barren without any fresh Water Tree Shrub Grass or Herbs or any Land Animals for the Seals and Sea-Lyons come ashore here but Fowls Of which there are great multitudes as Boobies but mostly Penguins which I have seen plentifully all over the South Seas on the Coast of Newfoundland and of the Cape of Good Hope They are a Sea Fowl about as big as a Duck and such Feet but a sharp Bill feeding on Fish They do not fly but flutter having rather stumps like a young Gossins than Wings And these are instead of Fins to them in the Water Their Feathers are Downy Their flesh is but ordinary food but their Eggs are good Meat There is another sort of small black Fowl that make holes in the Sand for their Night habitations whose flesh is good sweet meat I never saw any of them but here and at John Fernandos There is good riding between the Eastermost Island and the Rocks in 10 12 or 14 fathom for the wind is commonly at S. or S. S. E. and the Eastermost Island lying East and West shelters that Road. Here we scrubb'd our Ships and being in a readiness to sail the Prisoners were Examined to know if any of them could conduct us to some Town where we might make some attempt For they had before informed us that we were discried by the Spaniards and by that we knew that they would send no Riches by Sea so long as we were here Many Towns were considered on as Guiaquil Zana Truxillo and others At last Truxillo was pitched on as the most important therefore the likeliest to make us a Voyage if we could Conquer it which we did not much question though we knew it to be a very populous City But the greatest difficulty was in Landing for Guanchaquo which is the nearest Sea-port to it but 6 miles off is an ill place to Land since sometimes the very Fishermen that live there are not able to go out in 3 or 4 days However the 17th of May in the Afternoon our Men were mustered of both Ships Companies and their Arms proved We were in all 108 Men fit for Service besides the sick and the next day we intended to Sail and take the Wood Prize with us But the next day one of our Men being ashoar betimes on the Island discried three Sail bound to the North-ward two of them without the Island to the Westward the other between it and the Continent We soon got our Anchors up and chased and Captain Eaton who drew the least draught of Water put through between the Westermost Island and the Rocks and went after those two that were without the Islands We in Captain Cook 's Ship went after the other which stood in for the Main-Land but we soon fetched her up and having taken her stood in again with her to the Island for we saw that Captain Eaton wanted no help having taken both those that he went after He came in with one of his Prizes but the other was so far to Leeward and so deep that he could not then get her in but he hoped to get her in the next day but being deep laden as designed to go down before the wind to Panama she would not bear Sail. The 19th day she turned all day but got nothing nearer the Island Our Moskito strikers according to their custom went out and struck 6 Turtles for here are indifferent plenty of them These Ships that we took the day before came from Guanchaquo all three laden with Flower bound for Panama Two of them were laden as deep as they could swim the other was not above half laden but was ordered by the Vice-Roy of Lima to sail with the other two or else she should not sail till we were gone out of the Seas for he hoped they might escape us by setting out early In the biggest Ship was a Letter to the President of Panama from the Vice-Roy of Lima assuring him that there were Enemies come into that Sea for which reason he had dispatched these three Ships with Flower that they might not want for Panama is supplied from Peru and desired him to be frugal of it for he knew not when he should send more In this Ship were likewise 7 or 8 Tuns of Marmalate of Quinees and a stately Mule sent to the President and a very large Image of the Virgin Mary in Wood Carved and Painted to adorn a new Church at Panama and sent from Lima by the Vice-Roy for this great Ship came from thence not long before She brought also from Lima 800000 pieces of Eight to carry with her to Panama but while she lay at Guanchaco taking in her lading of Flower the Merchants hearing of Capt. Swan's being at Baldivia ordered the Money ashore again These Prisoners likewise informed us that the Gentlemen Inhabitants of Truxillo were building a Fort at Guanchaco which is the Sea Port for Truxillo close by the Sea purposely to hinder the designs of any that should attempt to land there Upon this news we altered our former resolutions and resolved to go with our three Prizes to the Gallapagos which are a great many large Islands lying some under the Equator others on each side of it I shall here omit the description of Truxillo because in my Appontlix at the latter end of the Book I intend to give a general Relation of most of the Towns of note on this Coast from Baldivia to Panama and from thence towards
where they first planted themselves they having not above 3 or 4 Hand-guns the rest of them being arm'd with Lances The Spaniards in these parts are very expert in heaving or darting the Lance with which upon occasion they will do great feats especially in Ambuscades and by their good will they care not for fighting otherwise but content themselves with standing aloof threatning and calling names at which they are as expert as the other so that if their Tongues be quiet we always take it for granted they have laid some Ambush Before night our Canoa came aboard and brought our men all safe The next day two Canoas were sent to the bottom of the Bay to seek for a large Canoa which we were inform d was there The Spaniards have neither Ships nor Barks here and but a few Canoas which they seldom use neither are there any Fishermen here as I judge because Fish is very scarce for I never saw any here neither could any of our men ever take any and yet where ever we come to an Anchor we always send out our Strikers and put out our Hooks and Lines over-board to try for Fish The next day our men return'd out of the Bay and brought the Canoa with them which they were sent for and 3 or 4 days afterward the 2 Canoas were sent out again for another which they likewise brought aboard These Canoas were fitted with Thoats or Benches Straps and Oars fit for service and one of these Captain Eaton had for his share and we the other which we fixt for landing men when occasion required While we lay here we filled our Water and cut a great many Looms or Handles or Staves for Oars for here is plenty of Lancewood which is most proper for that use I never saw any in the South Seas but in this place there is plenty of it in Jamaica especially at a place called Blewfields not Blewfields River which is on the Main near the West end of that Island The Lancewood grows strait like our young Ashes it is very hard tough and heavy therefore Privateers esteem it very much not only to make Looms for Oars but Scowring-Rods for their Guns for they have seldom less than 3 or 4 spare Rods for fear one should break and they are much better than Rods made of Ash. The day before we went from hence Mr. Edward Davis the Company 's Quarter-master was made Captain by consent of all the Company for it was his place by Succession The 20th day of July we sailed from this Bay of Caldera with Captain Eaton and our Prize which we brought from Gallapagos in company directing our course for Ria Lexa The Wind was at North which although but an ordinary Wind yet it carried us in three days abrest of our intended Port. Ria Lexa is the most remarkable Land on all this Coast for there is a high peeked burning Mountain called by the Spaniards Volean-Vejo or the Old Volcan This must be brought to bare N. E. then steer in directly with the Mountain and that course will bring you to the Harbour The Sea Winds are here at S. S. W. therefore Ships that come hither must take the Sea-winds for there is no going in with the Land-wind The Volcan may be easily known because there is not any other so high a Mountain near it neither is there any that appears in the like form all along the Coast besides it smoaks all the day and in the night it sometimes sends forth flames of fire This Mountain may be seen 20 leagues being within 3 leagues of the Harbor the entrance into it may be seen there is a small flat low Island which makes the Harbor it is about a mile long and a quarter of a mile broad and is from the Main about a mile and half There is a Channel at each end of the Island the West Channel is the widest and safest yet at the N. W. point of the Island there is a shole which Ships must take heed of in going in Being past that shole you must keep close to the Island for there is a whole sandy point strikes over from the Main almost half way The East Channel is not so wide besides there runs a stronger tide therefore Ships seldom or never go in that way This Harbor is capable of receiving 200 Sail of Ships the best riding is near the Main where there is 7 or 8 fathom water clean hard Sand. Ria Lexa Town is 2 leagues from hence and there are 2 Creeks that run towards it the Westermost comes near the backside of the Town the other runs up to the Town but neither Ships nor Barks can go so far These Creeks are very narrow and the Land on each side drowned and full of Red Mangrove-trees About a mile and half below the Town on the banks of the East Creek the Spaniards had cast up a strong Breast-work it was likewise reported they had another on the West Creek both so advantageously placed that 10 men might with ease keep 200 men from landing I shall give a description of the Town in my return hither and therefore forbear to do it here Wherefore to resume the thread of our course we were now in sight of the Volcan being by estimation 7 or 8 leagues from the shore and the Mountain bearing N. E. we took in our Topsails and hal'd up our Courses intending to go with our Canoas into the Harbor in the night In the evening we had a very hard Tornado out of the N. E. with much Thunder Lightening and Rain The violence of the Wind did not last long yet it was 11 a clock at night before we got out our Canoas and then it was quite calm We rowed in directly for the shore and thought to have reach'd it before day but it was 9 a clock in the morning before we got into the Harbor When we came within a league of the Island of Ria Lexa that makes the Harbor we saw a House on it and coming nearer we saw 2 or 2 men who stood and looked on us till we came within half a mile of the Island then they went into their Canoa which lay on the inside of the Island and rowed towards the Main but we overtook them before they got over and brought them back again to the Island There was a Horseman right against us on the Main when we took the Canoa who immediately rode away towards the Town as fast as he could The rest of onr Canoas rowed heavily and did not come to the Island till 12 a clock therefore we were forced to stay for them Before they came we examined the Prisoners who told us that they were set there to watch for the Governor of Ria Lexa received a Letter about a month before wherein he was advised of some Enemies come into the Sea and therefore admonished to be careful that immediately thereupon the Governor had caused a House to be built on this
Island and ordered 4 men to be continually there to watch night and day and if they saw any Ship coming thither they were to give notice of it They said they did not expect to see Boats or Canoas but lookt out for a Ship At first they took us in our advanced Canoa to be some men that had been cast away and lost our Ship till seeing 3 or 4 Canoas more they began to suspect what we were They told us likewise that the Horseman which we saw did come to them every morning and that in less than an hours time he could be at the Town When Captain Eaton and his Canoas came ashore we told them what had hapned It was now 3 hours since the Horseman rode away and we could not expect to get to the Town in less than two hours in which time the Governor having notice of our coming might be provided to receive us at his Breast-works therefore we thought it best to defer this design till another time There is a fine Spring of fresh water on the Island there are some Trees also but the biggest part is Savannah whereon is good grass though there is no sort of Beast to eat it This Island is in lat 12 d. 10 m. North. Here we stay'd till 4 a clock in the afternoon then our Ships being come within a league of the shore we all went on board and steer'd for the Gulf of Amapalla intending there to careen our Ships The 26th of July Captain Eaton came aboard our Ship to consult with Captain Davis how to get some Indians to assist us in careening it was concluded that when we came near the Gulf Captain Davis should take two Canoas well mann'd and go before and Captain Eaton should stay aboard According to this agreement Captain Davis went away for the Gulf the next day The Gulf of Amapalla is a great Arm of the Sea running 8 or 10 leagues into the Country It is bounded on the South side of its Entrance with Point Casivina and on the N. W. side with St. Michaels Mount Both these places are very remarkable Point Casivina is in lat 12 d. 40 m. North it is a high round Point which at Sea appears like an Island because the Land within it is very low St. Michaels Mount is a very high peeked Hill not very steep the Land at the foot of it on the S. E. side is low and even for at least a mile From this low Land the Gulf of Amapalla enters on that side Between this low Land and Point Casivina there are two considerable high Islands the Southermost is called Mangera the other is called Amapalla and they are two miles asunder Mangera is a high round Island about 2 leagues in compass appearing like a tall Grove It is invironed with Rocks all round only a small Cove or Sandy Bay on the N. E. side The Mold and Soil of this Island is black but not deep it is mixt with Stones yet very productive of large tall Timber Trees In the middle of the Island there is an Indian Town and a fair Spanish Church The Indians have Plantations of Maiz round the Town and some Plantains They have a few Cocks and Hens but no other sort of tame Fowl neither have they any sort of Beast but Cats and Dogs There is a path from the Town to the Sandy Bay but the way is steep and rocky At this sandy Bay there are always 10 or 12 Canoas lye haled updry except when they are in use Amapalla is a larger Island than Mangera the Soil much the same There are two Towns on it about two miles asunder one on the North side the other on the East side That on the East side is not above a mile from the Sea it stands on a Plain on the top of an Hill the path to it so steep and rocky that a few men might keep down a great number only with Stones There is a very fair Church standing in the midst of the Town The other Town is not so big yet it has a good handsom Church One thing I have observed in all the Indian Towns under the Spanish Government as well in these parts as in the Bay of Campeachy and elsewhere that the Images of the Virgin Mary and other Saints with which all their Churches were filled are still painted in an Indian Complexion and partly in that dress but in those Towns which are inhabited chiefly by Spaniards the Saints also conform themselves to the Spanish garb and complexion The Houses here are but mean the Indians of both Plains have good Field Maiz remote from the Town They have but few Plantains but they have abundance of large Hog-plumb Trees growing about their Houses The Tree that bears this Fruit is as big as our largest Plumb-tree The Leaf is of a dark green colour and as broad as the Leaf of a Plumb-tree but they are shaped like the Haw-thorn Leaf The Trees are very brittle Wood the Fruit is oval and as big as a small Horse Plumb It is at first very green but when it is ripe one side is yellow the other red It hath a great Stone and but little substance about it the Fruit is pleasant enough but I do not remember that ever I saw one throughly ripe that had not a Maggot or two in it I do not remember that I did ever see any of this Fruit in the South Seas but at this place In the Bay of Campeachy they are very plentiful and in Jamaica they plant them to fence their ground These Indians have also some Fowls as those at Mangera no Spaniards dwell among them but only one Padre or Priest who serves for all three Towns these two at Amapalla and that at Mangera They are under the Governor of the Town of St. Michaels at the foot of St. Michaels Mount to whom they pay their Tribute in Maize being extreamly poor yet very contented They have nothing to make Money of but their Plantations of Maiz and their Fowls the Padre or Frier hath his tenths of it and knows to a peck how much every man hath and how many Fowls of which they dare not kill one though they are sick without leave from him There was as I said never another white man on these Islands but the Frier He could speak the Indian Language as all Friers must that live among them In this vast Country of America there are divers Nations of Indians different in their Language therefore those Friers that are minded to live among any Nation of the Indians must learn the Language of those people they propose to teach Although these here are but poor yet the Indians in many other places have great riches which the Spaniards draw from them for trifles In such places the Friers get plentiful incomes as particularly in the Bay of Champeachy where the Indians have large Cacao-walks or in other places where they plant Cocho-neel Trees or Silvester Trees
or where they gather Vinelloes and in such places where they gather Gold In such places as these the Friers do get a great deal of wealth There was but one of all the Indians on both these Islands that could speak Spanish he could write Spanish also being bred up purposely to keep their Registers and Books of Account he was Secretary to both Islands They had a Casica too a small sort of Magistrate the Indians have amongst themselves but he could neither write nor speak Spanish There are a great many more Islands in this Bay but none inhabited as these There is one pretty large Island belonging to a Nunnery as the Indians told us this was stocked with Bulls and Cows there were 3 or 4 Indians lived there to look after the Cattle for the sake of which we often frequented this Island while we lay in the Bay they are all low Islands except Amapalla and Mangera There are 2 Channels to come into this Gulf one between Point Casivina and Mangera the other between Mangera and Amapalla the latter is the best The Riding place is on the East side of Amapalla right against a spot of low ground for all the Island except this one place is high Land Running in farther Ships may Anchor near the Main on the N. E. side of the Island Amapalla This is the place most frequented by Spaniards it is called the Port of Martin Lopez This Gulf or Lake runs in some leagues beyond all the Islands but it is shole water and not capable of Ships It was into this Gulf that Captain Davis was gone with the two Canoas to endeavour for a Prisoner to gain intelligence if possible before our Ships came in He came the first night to Mangera but for want of a Pilot did not know where to look for the Town In the morning he found a great many Canoas haled up on the Bay and from that Bay found a path which led him and his company to the Town The Indians saw our Ships in the evening coming towards the Island and being before informed of Enemies in the Sea they kept Scouts out all night for fear who seeing Captain Davis coming run into the Town and alarmed all the people When Captain Davis came thither they all run into the Woods The Fryer hapned to be there at this time who being unable to ramble into the Woods fell into Captain Davis's hands There were two Indian Boys with him who were likewise taken Captain Davis went only to get a Prisoner therefore was well satisfy'd with the Fryer and immediately came down to the Sea side He went from thence to the Island Amapalla carrying the Fryer and the two Indian Boys with him These were his Pilots to conduct him to the Landing place where they arrived about noon They made no stay here but left 3 or 4 men to look after the Canoas and Captain Davis with the rest marched to the Town taking the Fryer with them The Town as is before noted is about a mile from the Landing place standing in a plain on the top of the hill having a very steep ascent to go to it All the Indians stood on the top of the hill waiting Captain Davis's coming The Secretary mention'd before had no great kindness for the Spaniards It was he that perswaded the Indians to wait Captain Davis his coming for they were all running into the Woods but he told them that if any of the Spaniards Enemies came thither it was not to hurt them but the Spaniards whose Slaves they were and that their Poverty would protect them This man with the Casica stood more forward than the rest at the bank of the Hill when Captain Davis with his Company appear'd beneath They called out therefore in Spanish demanding of our Men what they were and from whence they came to whom Captain Davis and his Men reply'd they were Biscayers and that they were sent thither by the King of Spain to clear those Seas from Enemies that their Ships were coming into the Gulf to Careen and that they came thither before the Ships to seek a convenient place for it as also to desire the Indians assistance The Secretary who as I said before was the only man that could speak Spanish told them that they were welcome for he had a great respect for any Old Spain Men especially for the Biscayers of whom he had heard a very honourable report therefore he desired them to come up to their Town Captain Davis and his Men immediately ascended the Hill the Frier going before and they were received with a great deal of affection by the Indians The Casica and Secretary embraced Captain Davis and the other Indians received his Men with the like Ceremony These Salutations being ended they all marched towards the Church for that is the place of all publick Meetings and all Plays and Pastimes are acted there also therefore in the Churches belonging to Indian Towns they have all sorts of Vizards and strange antick Dresses both for Men and Women and abundance of Musical Hautboys and Strumstrums The Strumstrum is made somewhat like a Cittern most of those that the Indians use are made of a large Goad cut in the midst and a thin board laid over the hollow and which is fastned to the sides this serves for the belly over which the strings are placed The nights before any Holidays or the nights ensuing are the times when they all meet to make merry Their Mirth consists in singing dancing and sporting in those antick Habits and using as many antick gestures If the Moon shine they use but few Torches if not the Church is full of light They meet at these times all sorts of both Sexes All the Indians that I have been acquainted with who are under the Spaniards seem to be more melancholy than other Indians that are free and at these publick Meetings when they are in the greatest of their jollity their mirth seems to be rather forced than real Their Songs are very melancholy and doleful so is their Musick but whether it be natural to the Indians to be thus melancholy or the effect of their Slavery I am not certain But I have always been prone to believe that they are then only condoling their misfortunes the loss of their Country and Liberties which altho these that are now living do not know nor remember what it was to be free yet there seems to be a deep impression in their thoughts of the Slavery which the Spaniards have brought them under increas'd probably by some Traditions of their ancient freedom Captain Davis intended when they were all in the Church to shut the Doors and then make a bargain with them letting them know what he was and so draw them afterwards by fair means to our assistance the Frier being with him who had also promis'd to engage them to it but before they were all in the Church one of Captain Davis his Men pusht one of
sandy bearing only a few shrubby Trees These Indians plant no manner of Grain or Root but are supplied from other places and commonly keep a stock of Provision to relieve Ships that want for this is the first Settlement that Ships can touch at which come from Panama bound to Lima or any other Port in Peru. The Land being dry and sandy is not fit to produce Crops of Maize which is the reason they plant none There is a Spring of good Water between the Village and the Seas On the back of the Town a pretty way up in the Country there is a very high Mountain towring up like a Sugar-loaf called Monte-Christo It is a very good Sea-mark for there is none like it on all the Coast. The body of this Mountain bears due South from Manta About a mile and half from the Shore right against the Village there is a Rock which is very dangerous because it never appears above water neither doth the Sea break on it because here is seldom any great Sea yet it is now so well known that all Ships bound to this place do easily avoid it A mile within this Rock there is good Anchoring in 6 8 or 10 fathom Water good hard Sand and clear ground And a mile from the Road on the West side there is a shole running out a mile into the Sea From Manta to Cape St. Lorenzo the Land is plain and even of an indifferent heighth See a further account of these Coasts in the Appendix As soon as ever the day appear'd our men landed and march'd towards the Village which was about a mile and a half from their Landing-place Some of the Indians who were stirring saw them coming and alarmed their Neighbours so that all that were able got away They took only two old Women who both said that it was reported that a great many Enemies were come over land thro the Country of Darien into the South Seas and that they were at present in Canoas and Periagoes and that the Vice-Roy upon this news had set out the fore-mentioned order for burning their own Ships Our men found no sort of provision here the Vice-Roy having likewise sent orders to all Sea-ports to keep no provision but just to supply themselves These Women also said that the Manta Indians were sent over to the Island Plata to destroy all the Goats there which they performed about a month agone With this news our men returned again and arriv'd at Plata the next day We lay still at the Island Plata being not resolved what to do till the 2d day of October and then Captain Swan in the Cygnet of London arriv'd there He was fitted out by very eminent Merchants of that City on a design only to trade with the Spaniards or Indians having a very considerable Cargo well sorted for these parts of the World but meeting with divers disappointments and being out of hopes to obtain a trade in these Seas his men forc'd him to entertain a company of Privateers which he met with near Nicoya a Town whither he was going to seek a Trade and these Privateers were bound thither in Boats to get a Ship These were the men that we had heard of at Manta they came over land under the command of Captain Peter Harris Nephew to that Captain Harris who was kill'd before Panama Captain Swan was still Commander of his own Ship and Captain Harris commanded a small Bark under Captain Swan There was much joy on all sides when they arriv'd and immediately hereupon Captain Davis and Captain Swan consorted wishing for Captain Eaton again Our little Bark which was taken at Santa Hellena was immediately sent out to cruize while the Ships were fitting for Captain Swan's Ship being full of goods was not fit to entertain his new guest till the goods were dispos'd of therefore he by the consent of the Supercargo's got up all his goods on Deck and sold to any one that would buy upon trust the rest was thrown over-board into the Sea except fine goods as Silks Muslins Stockings c. and except the Iron whereof he had a good quantity both wrought and in Bars This was saved for Ballast The third day after our Bark was sent to cruize she brought in a Prize of 400 Tuns laden with Timber They took her in the Bay of Guiaquil she came from a Town of that name and was bound to Lima. The Commander of this Prize said that it was generally reported and believed at Guiaquil that the Vice-Roy was fitting out 10 sail of Frigots to drive us out of the Seas This news made our unsettled Crew wish that they had been perswaded to accept of Captain Eaton's company on reasonable terms Captain Davis and Captain Swan had some discourse concerning Captain Eaton they at last concluded to send our small Bark towards the Coast of Lima as far as the Island Lobos to seek Captain Eaton This being approved by all hands she was cleaned the next day and sent away mann'd with 20 men 10 of Captain Davis and 10 of Swan's men and Captain Swan writ a Letter directed to Captain Eaton desiring his company and the Isle of Plata was appointed for the general Rendezvous When this Bark was gone we turn'd another Bark which we had into a Fire-ship having 6 or 7 Carpenters who soon fixt her and while the Carpenters were at work about the Fire-ship we scrubb'd and clean'd our Men of War as well as time and place would permit The 19th day of October we finish'd our business and the 20th day we sail'd toward the Island Lobos where our Bark was order'd to stay for us or meet us again at Plata We had but little Wind therefore it was the 23d day before we passed by Point St. Hellena The 25th day we crossed over the Bay of Guiaquil The 30th day we doubled Cape Blanco This Cape is in lat 3 d. 45 m. It is counted the worst Cape in all the South Seas to double passing to the Southward for in all other places Ships may stand off to Sea 20 or 30 leagues off if they find they cannot get any thing under the shore but here they dare not do it for by relation of the Spaniards they find a current setting N. W. which will carry a Ship off more in 2 hours than they can run in again in 5. Besides setting to the Northward they lose ground therefore they alway beat it up under the shore which oft-times they find very difficult because the wind commonly blows very strong at S. S. W. or S. by W. without altering for here are never any Land-winds This Cape is of an indifferent heighth It is fenced with white Rocks to the Sea for which reason I believe it hath this name The Land in the Country seems to be full of high steep rugged and barren Rocks The 2d day of November we got as high as Payta We lay about 6 leagues off shore all the day that the
always go before the Wind being unable to ply against it and therefore are fit only for these Seas where the Wind is always in a manner the same not varying above a point or two all the way from Lima till such time as they come into the Bay of Panama and even there they meet with no great Sea but sometimes Northerly winds and then they lower their Sails and drive before it waiting a change All their care then is only to keep off from Shore for they are so made that they cannot sink at Sea These Rafts carry 60 or 70 Tuns of Goods and upwards their Cargo is chiefly Wine Oyl Flower Sugar Quito-cloath Soap Goat-skins drest c. The Float is manag'd usually by 3 or 4 Men who being unable to return with it against the Trade-wind when they come to Panama dispose of the goods and bottom together getting a passage back again for themselves in some Ship or Boat bound to the Port they came from and there they make a new Bark-log for their next Cargo The smaller sort of Bark-logs described before which lye flat on the Water and are used for Fishing or carrying Water to Ships or the like half a Tun or a Tun at a time are more governable than the other tho they have Masts and Sails too With these they go out at night by the help of the Land-wind which is seldom wanting on this Coast and return back in the day time with the Sea-wind This sort of Floats are used in many places both in the East and West Indies On the Coast of Coromandel in the East Indies they call them Catamarans These are but one Log or two sometimes of a sort of light Wood and are made without Sail or Rud der and so small that they carry but one Man whose legs and breech are always in the Water and he manages his Log with a Paddle appearing at a distance like a Man sitting on a Fish's back The Country about Payta is mountainous and barren like all the rest of the Kingdom of Peru. There is no Towns of consequence nearer it than Piura which is a large Town in the Country 40 miles distant It lieth by report of our Spanish Prisoners in a Valley which is watered with a small River that disembogues it self into the Bay of Chirapce in about 7d of North latitude This Bay is nearer to Piura than Payta yet all Goods imported by Sea for Piura are landed at Payta for the Bay of Chirapee is full of dangerous sholes and therefore not frequented by shipping The Road of Payta is one of the best on the Coast of Peru. It is sheltered from the South-west by a point of Land which makes a large Bay and smooth Water for Ships to ride in There is room enough for a good Fleet of Ships and good anchoring in any depth from 6 fathom water to 20 fathom Right against the Town the nearer the Town the shallower the water and the smoother the riding it is clean Sand all over the Bay Most Ships passing either to the North or the South touch at this place for water for tho here is none at the Town yet those Indian Fishermen of Colan will and do supply all Ships very reasonably and good water is much prized on all this Coast through the scarcity of it November the 3d at 6 a clock in the morning our Men landed about 4 miles to the South of the Town and took some Prisoners that were sent thither to watch for fear of us and these Prisoners said that the Governor of Piura came with 100 armed Men to Payta the night before purposely to oppose our landing there if we should attempt it Our Men marched directly to the Fort on the Hill and took it without the loss of one Man Hereupon the Governor of Piura with all his Men and the Inhabitants of the Town ran away as fast as they could Then our Men entered the Town and found it emptied both of Money and Goods there was not so much as a Meal of Victuals left for them The Prisoners told us a Ship had been here a little before and burnt a great Ship in the Road but did not land their Men and that here they put ashore all their Prisoners and Pilots We knew this must be Captain Eaton's Ship which had done this and by these circumstances we supposed he was gone to the East Indies it being always designed by him The Prisoners told us also that since Captain Eaton was here a small Bark had been off the Harbor and taken a pair of Bark-logs a fishing and made the Fishermen bring aboard 20 or 30 Jars of fresh water This we supposed was our Bark that was sent to the Lobos to seek Captain Eaton In the evening we came in with our Ships and anchored before the Town in 10 fathom water near a mile from the shore Here we staid till the sixth day in hopes to get a Ransom for the Town Our Captains demanded 300 Packs of Flower 3000 pound of Sugar 25 Jars of Wine and 1000 Jars of Water to be brought off to us but we got nothing of it Therefore Captain Swan ordered the Town to be fir'd which was presently done Then all our Men came aboard and Captain Swan ordered the Bark which Captain Harris commanded to be burnt because she did not sail well At night when the Land Wind came off we sailed from hence towards Lobos The 10th day in the evening we saw a Sail bearing N. W. by N. as far as we could well discern her on our Deck We immediately chased separating our selves the better to meet her in the night but we mist her Therefore the next morning we again trimb'd sharp and made the best of our way to the Lobos de la Mar. The 14th day we had sight of the Island Lobos de Terra it bore East from us we stood in towards it and betwixt 7 and 8 a clock in the night came to an anchor at the N. E. end of the Island in 14 fathom water This Island at Sea is of an indifferent height and appears like Lobos de la Mar. About a quarter of a mile from the North end there is a great hollow Rock and a good Channel between where there is 7 fathom water The 15th day we went ashore and found abundance of Penguins and Boobies and Seal in great quanties We sent aboard of all these to be drest for we had not tasted any flesh in a great while before therefore some of us did eat very heartily Captain Swan to encourage his Men to eat this course flesh would commend it for extraordinary good food comparing the Seal to roasting Pig the Boobies to Hens and the Penguins to Ducks this he did to train them to live contentedly on course Meat not knowing but we might be forced to make use of such food before we departed out of these Seas for it is generally seen among Privateers that nothing imboldens them
this River Their chiefest employment when they are not at Sea is fishing These men are oblig'd by the Spaniards to keep good watch for Ships that Anchor at Point Arena which as I said before is 7 leagues from the Town Puna The place where they keep this watch is at a Point of Land on the Island Puna that starts out into the Sea from whence they can see all Ships that anchor at Point Arena The Indians come thither in the morning and return at night on Horse-back From this watching point to Point Arena it is 4 leagues all drowned Mangrove-land and in the midway between these two Points is another small Point where these Indians are obrig d to keep another Watch when they fear an Enemy The Centinel goes thither in a Canoa in the morning and returns at night for there is no coming thither by Land through that Mangrove marshy ground The middle of the Island Puna is Savannah or pasture There are some ridges of good Woodland which is of a light yellow or sandy mould producing large tall Trees most unknown even to Travellers But there are plenty of Palmeto Trees which because I am acquainted with I shall describe The Palmeto Tree is about the bigness of an ordinary Ash It is about 30 foot high the body streight without any limb or branch or leaf except at the head only where it spreads forth into many small branches not half so big as a mans arm some no bigger than ones finger These branches are about 3 or 4 foot long clear from any knot At the end of the branch there groweth one broad leaf about the bigness of a large Fan. This when it first shoots forth grows in folds like a Fan when it is closed and still as it grows bigger so it opens till it becomes like a Fan spread abroad It is strengthned towards the stalk with many small ribs springing from thence and growing into the leaf which as they grow near the end of the leaf grow thinner and smaller The Leaves that make the brush part of the Flag-brooms which are brought into England grow just in this manner and are indeed a small kind of Palmeto for there are of them of several dimensions In Bermudas and elsewhere they make Hats Baskets Brooms Fans to blow the fire instead of Bellows with many other House-Implements of Palmeto-Leaves On the ridges where these Trees grow the Indians have here and there Plantations of Maiz Yams and Potatoes There are in the Town of Puna about 20 Houses and a small Church The Houses stand all on Posts 10 or 12 foot high with Ladders on the outside to go up into them I did never see the like buildings any where but among the Malayans in the East Indies They are thatched with Palmeto-leaves and their Chambers well boarded in which last they exceed the Malayans The best place for Ships to lye at an anchor is against the middle of the Town There is 5 fathom water within a Cables length of the shore and good soft deep Oaze where ships may careen or hale ashore it flows 15 or 16 foot water up and down From Puna to Guiaquil is reckoned 7 leagues It is one league before you come to the River of Guiaquil s mouth where it is above two mile wide from thence upwards the River lies pretty streight without any considerable turnings Both sides of the River are low swampy Land overgrown with Red Mangroves so that there is no landing Four mile before you come to the Town of Guiaquil there is a low Island standing in the River This Island divides the River into two parts making two very fair Channels for Ships to pass up and down The S. W. Channel is the widest the other is as deep but narrower and narrower yet by reason of many Trees and Bushes which spread over the River both from the Main and from the Island and there are also several great stumps of Trees standing upright in the Water on either side The Island is above a mile long From the upper part of the Island to the Town of Guiaquil is almost a league and near as much from one side of the River to the other In that spacious place Ships of the greatest burthen may ride afloat but the best place for Ships is nearest to that part of the Land where the Town stands and this place is seldom without Ships Guiaquil stands facing the Island close by the River partly on the side and partly at the foot of a gentle Hill declining towards the River by which the lower part of it is often overflown There are two Forts one standing in the low ground the other on the hill This Town makes a very fine prospect it being beautified with several Churches and other good Buildings Here lives a Governor who as I have been informed hath his Patent from the King of Spain Guiaquil may be reckoned one of the chiefest Sea-Ports in the South Seas The Commodities which are exported from hence are Cacao Hides Tallow Sarsaparilla and other Drugs and Woollen Cloath commonly called Cloath of Quito The Cacao grows on both sides of the River above the Town It is a small Nut like the Campeachy Nut I think the smallest of the two they produce as much Cacao here as serves all the Kingdom of Peru and much of it is sent to Acapulco and from thence to the Phillipine Islands Sarsaparilla grows in the Water by the sides of the River as I have been informed The Quito-cloath comes from a rich Town in the Country within land called Quito There is a great deal made both Serges and Broad-cloath This Cloath is not very fine but is worn by the common sort of people throughout the whole Kingdom of Peru. This and all other commodities which come from Quito are shipt off at Guiaquil for other parts and all imported goods for the City of Quito pass by Guiaquil by which it may appear that Guiaquil is a place of no mean trade Quito as I have been informed is a very populous City seated in the heart of the Country It is inhabited partly by Spaniards but the major part of its Inhabitants are Indians under the Spanish Government It is environ'd with Mountains of a vast heighth from whose bowels many great Rivers have their rise These Mountains abound in Gold which by violent rains is wash'd with the Sand into the adjacent Brooks where the Indians resort in Troops washing away the Sand and putting up the Gold-dust in their Calabashes or Gourd Shells But for the manner of gatnering the Gold I refer you to Mr. Waffer's Book Only I shall remark here that Quito is the place in all the Kingdom of Peru that abounds most with this rich Metal as I have been often informed The Country is subject to great Rains and very thick Fogs especially the Valleys For that reason it is very unwholsome and sickly The chiefest Distempers are Fevers violent Head-ach Pains in the Bowels and
from all parts But Panama as it is not overcharg d with men so unreasonably as the other tho very full so it enjoys a good air lying open to the Sea wind which riseth commonly about 10 or 11 a clock in the morning and continues till 8 or 9 a clock at night then the Land wind comes and blows till 8 or 9 in the morning There are no Woods nor Marshes near Panama but a brave dry Champain land not subject to fogs nor mists The wet season begins in the latter end of May and continues till November At that time the Sea breezes are at S. S. W. and the Land winds at N. At the dry season the winds are most betwixt the E. N. E. and the North Yet off in the Bay they are commonly at South but of this I shall be more particular in my Chapter of Winds in the Appendix The rains are not so excessive about Panama it self as on either side of the Bay yet in the months of June July and August they are severe enough Gentlemen that come from Peru to Panama especially in these months cut their hair close to preserve them from Fevers for the place is sickly to them because they come out of a Country which never hath any Rains or Fogs but enjoys a constant serenity but I am apt to believe this City is healthy enough to any other people Thus much for Panama The 20th day we went and anchored within a league of the Islands Perico which are only 3 little barren rocky Islands in expectation of the President of Panama s Answer to the Letter I said we sent him by Don Diego treating about exchange of Prisoners this being the day on which he had given us his Parole to return with an Answer The 21st day we took another Baâ—…k laden with Hogs Fowl Salt Beef and Molossoes she came from Lavelia and was going to Panama In the afternoon we sent another Letter ashore by a young Mostiso a mixt brood of Indians and Europeans directed to the President and 3 or 4 Copies of it to be dispersed abroad among the common People This Letter which was full of Threats together with the young Man's managing the business wrought so powerfully among the common People that the City was in an uproar The President immediately sent a Gentleman aboard who demanded the Flower Prize that we took off of Gallo and all the Prisoners for the Ransom of our two Men but our Captains told him they would exchange Man for Man The Gentleman said he had not orders for that but if we would stay till the next day he would bring the Governours answer The next day he brought aboard our two Men and had about 40 Prisoners in exchange The 24th day we run over to the Island Tabago Tabago is in the Bay and about 6 leagues South of Panama It is about 3 mile long and 2 broad a high mountainous Island On the North side it declines with a gentle descent to the Sea The Land by the Sea is of a black Mold and deep but toward the top of the Mountain it is strong and dry The North side of this Island makes a very pleasant shew it seems to be a Garden of Fruit inclosed with many high Trees the chiefest Fruits are Plantains and Bonana's They thrive very well from the foot to the middle of it but those near the top are but small as wanting moisture Close by the Sea there are many Coco Nut Trees which make a very pleasant sight Within the Coco Nut Trees there grow many Mammet Trees The Mammet is a large tall and streight-bodied Tree clean without Knots or Limbs for 60 or 70 foot or more The Head spreads abroad into many small Limbs which grow pretty thick and close together The Bark is of a dark grey colour thick and rough full of large chops The Fruit is bigger than Quince it is round and covered with a thick Rind of a grey colour When the Fruit is ripe the Rind is yellow and tough and it will then peel off like Leather but before it is ripe it is brittle the Juice is then white and clammy but when ripe not so The ripe Fruit under the Rind is yellow as a Carret and in the middle are two large rough Stones flat and each of them much bigger than an Almond The Fruit smells very well and the taste is answerable to the smell The S. W. end of the Island hath never been cleared but is full of Fire-wood and Trees of divers sorts There is a very fine small Brook of fresh Water that springs out of the side of the Mountain and gliding through the Grove of Fruit-trees falls into the Sea on the North side There was a small Town standing by the Sea with a Church at one end but now the biggest part of it is destroyed by the Privateers There is good anchoring right against the Town about a mile from the shore where you may have 16 or 18 fathom Water soft oazy ground There is a small Island close by the N. W. end of this called Tabogilla which is a small Channel to pass between There is another woody Island about a mile on the N. E. side of Tabago and a good Channel between them this Island hath no Name that ever I heard While we lay at Tabago we had like to have had a scurvy trick plaid us by a pretended Merchant from Panama who came as by stealth to traffick with us privately a thing common enough with the Spanish Merchants both in the North and South Seas notwithstanding the severe Prohibitions of the Governours who yet sometimes connive at it and will even trade with the Privateers themselves Our Merchant was by agreement to bring out his Bark laden with Goods in the night and we to go and anchor at the South of Perico Out he came with a Fireship instead of a Bark and approached very near haling us with the Watch word we had agreed upon We suspecting the worst call d to them to come to an anchor and upon their not doing so fired at them when immediately their Men going out into the Canoas set fire to their Ship which blew up and burnt close by us so that we were forced to cut our Cables in all haste and scamper away as well as we could The Spaniard was not altogether so politick in appointing to meet us at Perico for there we had Sea-room whereas had he come thus upon us at Tabago the Land-wind bearing hard upon us as it did we must either have been burnt by the Fireship or upon loosing our Cables have been driven ashore But I suppose they chose Perico rather for the Scene of their Enterprize partly because they might there best sculk among the Islands and partly because if their Exploit fail d they could thence escape best from our Canoas to Panama but 2 leagues off During this Exploit Captain Swan whose Ship was less than ours and so not so much
to the Island Otoque This is another inhabited Island in the Bay of Panama not so big as Tabago yet there are good Plantain Walks on it and some Negroes to look after them These Negroes rear Fowls and Hogs for their Masters who live at Panama as at the Kings Islands It was for some Fowls or Hogs that our Men went thither but by accident they met also with an Express that was sent to Panama with an account that the Lima Fleet was at Sea Most of the Letters were thrown over board and lost yet we found some that said positively that the Fleet was coming with all the strength that they could make in the Kingdom of Peru yet were ordered not to fight us except they were forced to it though afterwards they chose to fight us having first landed their Treasure at Lavelia and that the Pilots of Lima had been in consultation what course to steer to miss us For the satisfaction of those who may be curious to know I have here inserted the Resolutions taken by the Commitee of Pilots as one of our company translated them out of the Spanish of two of the Letters we took The first Letter as follows SIR HAving been with his Excellency and heard the Letter of Captain Michael Sanches de Tena read wherein he says there should be a meeting of the Pilots of Panama in the said City they say t is not time putting for objection the Gallapagoes to which I answered that it was fear of the Enemy and that they might well go that way I told this to his Excellency who was pleased to command me to write the Course which is as follows The day for sailing being come go forth to the West South West from that to West till you are forty leagues off at Sea then keep at the same distance to the N. W. till you come under the Line from whence the Pilot must shape his Course for Moro de Porco and for the Coast of Lavelia and Natta where you may speak with the people and according to the information they give you may keep the same Course for Otoque from thence to Tabago and so to Panama this is what offers as to the Course The Letter is obscure but the Reader must make what he can of it The Directions in the other Letter were to this Effect THE surest Course to be observed going forth from Malabrigo is thus you must sail W. by S. that you may avoid the sight of the Islands of Lobos and if you should chance to see them by reason of the Breezes and should fall to Leeward of the Lat. of Malabrigo keep on a Wind as near as you can and if necessary go about and stand in for the shore then tack and stand off and be sure keep your Latitude and when you are 40 leagues to the Westward of the Islands Lobos keep that distance till you come under the Line and then if the general Wind follows you farther you must sail N. N. E. till you come into 3 degrees North. And if in this Lat. you should find the breezes make it your business to keep the Coast and so sail for Panama If in your course you should come in sight of the Land before you are abrest of Cape St. Francisco be sure to stretch off again out of sight of Land that you may not be discovered by the Enemy The last Letter supposes the Fleet 's setting out from Malabrigo in about 8 deg South Lat. as the other doth its going immediately from Lima 4 deg further South and from hence is that caution given of avoiding Lobos as near Malabrigo in their usual way to Panama and hardly to be kept out of sight as the Winds are thereabouts yet to be avoided by the Spanish Fleet at this time because as they had twice before heard of the Privateers lying at Lobos de la Mar they knew not but at that time we might be there in expectation of them The 10th day we sailed from Tabago towards the Kings Islands again because our Pilots told us that the Kings Ships did always come this way The 11th day we anchored at the place where we careen'd Here we found Captain Harris who had gone a second time into the River of Santa Maria and fetched the body of Men that last came over land as the Indians had informed us but they fell short of the number they told us of The 19th day we sent 250 Men in 15 Canoas to the River Cheapo to take the Town of Cheapo The 21st day all our Ships but Captain Harris who staid to clean his Ship followed after The 22d day we arrived at the Island Chepelio Chepelio is the pleasantest Island in the Bay of Panama It is but 7 leagues from the City of Panama and a league from the Main This Island is about 2 mile long and almost so broad it is low on the North side and riseth by a small ascent towards the South side The Soil is yellow a kind of clay The high side is stony the low Land is planted with all sorts of delicate Fruits viz. Sapadilloes Avogato-pears Mammees Mammee-Sappota's Star-apples c. The middle of the Island is planted with Plantain Trees which are not very large but the Fruit extraordinary sweet The Sapadillo Tree is as big as a large Pear-tree The Fruit much like a Bergamo-pear both in colour shape and size but on some Trees the Fruit is a little longer When it is green or first gathered the juice is white and clammy and it will stick like glew then the Fruit is hard but after it hath been gathered 2 or 3 days it grows soft and juicy and then the juice is clear as Spring-water and very sweet In the midst of the Fruit are 2 or 3 black stones or seeds about the bigness of the Pumkin seed This is an excellent Fruit. The Avogato Pear-tree is as big as most Pear-trees and is commonly pretty high the skin or bark black and pretty smooth the leaves large of an oval shape and the Fruit as big as a large Lemon It is of a green colour till it is ripe and then it is a little yellowish They are seldom fit to eat till they have been gathered 2 or 3 days then they become soft and the skin or rind will peel off The substance in the inside is green or a little yellowish and as soft as Butter Within the substance there is a stone as big as a Horse-plumb This Fruit hath no taste of its self and therefore 't is usually mixt with Sugar and Lime-juice and beaten together in a Plate and this is an excellent dish The ordinary way is to eat it with a little Salt and a rosted Plantain and thus a man that 's hungry may make a good meal of it It is very wholsome eaten any way It is reported that this Fruit provokes to lust and therefore is said to be much esteemed by the Spaniards and I do believe they are
from the mouth of the Harbour on the East side there is a little Island close by the shore and on the West side of the mouth of the Harbour there is a great hollow Rock which by the continual working of the Sea in and out makes a great noise which may be heard a great way Every Surge that comes in forceth the Water out of a little hole on its top as out of a pipe from whence it flys out just like the blowing of a Whale to which the Spaniards also liken it They call this Rock and Spout the Buffadore upon what account I know not Even in the calmest seasons the Sea beats in there making the Water spout out at the hole so that this is always a good mark to find the Harbour by The Harbour is about 3 mile deep and one mile broad it runs in N. W. But the West side of the Harbour is best to ride in for small Ships for there you may ride land-locked whereas any where else you are open to the S. W. Winds which often blow here There is good clean ground any where and good gradual soundings from 16 to 6 fathom it is bounded with a smooth sandy shore very good to land at and at the bottom of the Harbour there is a fine Brook of fresh Water running into the Sea Here formerly stood a small Spanish Town or Village which was taken by Sir Francis Drake but now there is nothing remaining of it beside a little Chappel standing among the Trees about 200 paces from the Sea The Land appears in small short ridges parallel to the shore and to each other the innermost still gradually higher than that nearer the shore and they are all cloathed with very high flourishing Trees that it is extraordinary pleasant and delightful to behold at a distance I have no where seen any thing like it At this place Captain Swan who had been very sick came ashore and all the sick Men with him and the Surgeon to tend them Captain Townley again took a company of Men with him and went into the Country to seek for Houses or Inhabitants He marched away to the Eastward and came to the River Capalita which is a swift River yet deep near the mouth and is about a league from Guatulco There 2 of his Men swam over the River and took 3 Indians that were placed there as Centinels to watch for our coming These could none of them speak Spanish yet our Men by signs made them understand that they desired to know if there was any Town or Village near who by the signs which they made gave our Men to understand that they could guide them to a Settlement but there was no understanding by them whether it was a Spanish or Indian Settlement nor how far it was thither They brought these Indians aboard with them and the next day which was the 6th day of October Captain Townly with 140 Men of whom I was one went ashore again taking one of these Indians with us for a Guide to conduct us to this Settlement Our Men that stay'd aboard fill'd our Water and cut Wood and mended our Sails and our Moskito Men struck 3 or 4 Turtle every day They were a small sort of Turtle and not very sweet yet very well esteemed by us all because we had eaten no flesh a great while The 8th day we returned out of the Country having been about 14 miles directly within land before we came to any Settlement There we found a small Indian Village and in it a great quantity of Vinello's drying in the Sun The Vinello is a little Cod full of small black seeds it is 4 or 5 inches long about the bigness of the stem of a Tobacco leaf and when dried much resembling it so that our Privateers at first have often thrown them away when they took any wondering why the Spaniards should lay up Tobacco stems This Cod grows on a small Vine which climbs about and supports it self by the neighbouring Trees it first bears a yellow Flower from whence the Cod afterwards proceeds It is first green but when ripe it turns yellow then the Indians whose Manufacture it is and who sell it cheap to the Spaniards gather it and lay it in the Sun which makes it soft then it changes to a Chesnut-colour Then they frequently press it between their fingers which makes it flat If the Indians do any thing to them beside I know not but I have seen the Spaniards sleek them with Oyl These Vines grow plentifully at Bocca-toro where I have gathered and tried to cure them but could not which makes me think that the Indians have some secret that I know not of 10 cure them I have often asks the Spaniards how they were cured but I never could meet with any could tell me One Mr. Cree also a very curious person who spake Spanish well and had been a Privateer all his Life and 7 years a Prisoner among the Spaniards at Portobel and Cartagena yet upon all his enquiry could not find any of them that understood it Could we have learnt the Art of it several of us would have gone to Bocca-toro yearly at the dry season and cured them and freighted our Vessel We there might have had Turtle enough for food and store of Vinello's Mr. Cree first shewed me those at Bocca-toro At or near a Town also called Caihooca in the Bay of Campeachy these Cods are found They are commoly sold for 3 pence a Cod among the Spaniards in the West-Indies and are sold by the Druggist for they are much used among Chocolate to perfume it Some will use them among Tobacco for it gives a delicate scent I never heard of any Vinello's but here in this Country about Caihooca and at Bocca-toro The Indians of this Village could speak but little Spanish They seemed to be a poor innocent people and by them we understood that here are very few Spaniards in these parts yet all the Indians hereabout are under them The Land from the Sea to their Houses is black Earth mixt with some Stones and Rocks all the way full of very high Trees The 10th day we sent 4 Canoas to the West-ward who were ordered to lye for us at Port Angels where we were in hopes that by some means or other they might get Prisoners that might give us a better account of the Country than at present we could have and we followed them with our Ships all our Men being now pretty well recovered of the Fever which had raged amongst us ever since we departed from Ria Lexa CHAP. IX They set out from Guatulco The Isle Sacrificio Port Angels Jaccals A narrow Escape The Rock Algatross and the neighbouring Coast. Snooks a sort of Fish The Town of Acapulco Of the Trade it drives with the Philippine Islands The Haven of Acapulco A Tornado Port Marquis Capt. Townly makes a fruitless Attempt A long sandy Bay but very rough Seas The Palm tree great
here being as I have said neither Boats Barks nor Ships that I could ever see unless only what come hither from other parts and some Boats near the S. E. end of California as I guess by the intercourse between that and the Main for Pearl-fishing The Ships that Trade hither are only 3 two that constantly go once a year between this and Manila in Luconia one of the Phillipine Islands and one Ship more every year to and from Lima. This from Lima commonly arrives a little before Christmas she brings them Quick-silver Cacao and pieces of Eight Here she stays till the Manila Ship arrives and then takes in a Cargo of Spices Silks Callicoes and Muzlins and other East India Commodities for the use of Peru and then returns to Lima. This is but a small Vessel of 20 Guns but the 2 Manila Ships are each said to be above 1000 Tun. These make their Voyages alternately so that one or other of them is always at the Manillas When either of them sets out from Acapulco it is at the latter end of March or the beginning of April she alwas touches to refresh at Guam one of the Ladrone Islands in about 60 days space after she sets out There she stays but 2 or 3 days and then prosecutes her Voyage to Manila where she commonly arrives some time in June By that time the other is ready to sail from thence laden with East India Commodities She stretcheth away to the North as far as 36 or sometimes into 40 degrees of North lat before she gets a wind to stand over to the American shore She falls in first with the Coast of California and then Coasts along the shore to the South again and never misses of a wind to bring her away from thence quite to Acapulco When she gets the length of Cape St. Lucas which is the Southermost point of California she stretcheth over to Cape Cortientes which is in about the 20th degree of North lat from thence she Coasts along till she comes to Sallagua and there she sets ashore Passengers that are bound to the City of Mexico From thence she makes her best way coasting still along shore till she arrives at Acapulco which is commonly about Christmas never more than 8 or 10 days before or after Upon the return of this Ship to the Manila the other which stayeth there till her arrival takes her turn back to Acapulco Sir John Narborough therefore was imposed on by the Spaniards who told him that there were 6 sail or more that used this Trade The Port of Acapulco is very commodious for the reception of Ships and so large that some hundreds may safely ride there without damnifying each other There is a small low Island crossing the mouth of the Harbour it is about a mile and a half long and half a mile broad stretching East and West It leaves a good wide deep Channel at each end where Ships may safely go in or come out taking the advantage of the Winds they must enter with the Sea-wind and go out with the Land-wind for these Winds seldom or never fail to succeed each other alternately in their proper seasons of the day or night The Westermost Channel is the narrowest but so deep there is no anchoring and the Manila Ships pass in that way but the Ships from Lima enters on the S. W. Channel This Harbour runs in North about 3 miles then growing very narrow it turns short about to the West and runs about a mile farther where it ends The Town stands on the N. W. side at the mouth of this narrow passage close by the Sea and at the end of the Town there is a Platform with a great many Guns Opposite to the Town on the East side stands a high strong Castle said to have 40 Guns of a very great bore Ships commonly ride near the bottom of the Harbour under the Command both of the Castle and the Platform Captain Townly who as I said before with 140 men left our Ships on a design to fetch the Lima Ship out of the Harbour had not rowed above 3 or 4 leagues before the Voyage was like to end with all their Lives for on a sudden they were encountered with a violent Tornado from the shore which had like to have foundered all the Canoas but they escaped that danger and the second night got safe into Port Marquis Port Marquis is a very good Harbour a league to the East of Acapulco Harbour Here they staid all the next day to dry themselves their Cloaths their Arms and Ammunition and the next night they rowed softly into Acapulco Harbour and because they would not be heard they hal'd in their Oars and paddled as softly as if they had been seeking Manatee They paddled close to the Castle then struck over to the Town and found the Ship riding between the Brestwork and the Fort within about 100 yards of each When they had well viewed her and considered the danger of the design they thought it not possible to accomplish it therefore they paddled softly back again till they were out of command of the Forts and then they went to land and fell in among a company of Spanish Soldiers for the Spaniards having seen them the day before had set Guards along the Coast who immediately fired at them but did them no damage only made them retire farther from the shore They lay afterwards at the mouth of the Harbour till it was day to take a view of the Town and Castle and then returned aboard again being tired hungry and sorry for their disappointment The 11th day we made sail again further on to the Westward with the Land-wind which is commonly at N. E. but the Sea Winds are at S. W. We passed by a long sandy Bay of above 20 leagues All the way along it the Sea falls with such force on the shore that it is impossible to come near it with Boat or Canoa yet it is good clean ground and good anchoring a mile or two from the shore The Land by the Sea is low and indifferent fertile producing many sorts of Trees especially the spreading Palm which grows in spots from one end of the Bay to the other The Palm-tree is as big as an ordinary Ash growing about 20 or 30 foot high The body is clear from boughs or branches till just at the head there it spreads forth many large green branches not much unlike the Cabbage-tree before described These branches also grow in many places as in Jamaica Darien the Bay of Campeachy c. from a stump not above a foot or two high which is not the remains of a Tree cut down for none of these sort of Trees will ever grow again when they have once lost their head but these are a sort of Dwarf-palm and the branches which grow from the stump are not so large as those that grow on the great Tree These smaller branches are used both in the East
were perfectly at a loss to find out the Houses or Town they came from The 28th day being tired and hopeless to find any Town we went aboard our Ships that were now come abrest of the place where we were for always when we leave our Ships we either order a certain place of meeting or else leave them a sign to know where we are by making one or more great Smoaks yet we had all like to have been ruin'd by such a signal as this in a former Voyage under Captain Sharp when we made that unfortunate attempt upon Arica which is mentioned in the History of the Buccaneers For upon the routing our Men and taking several of them some of those so taken told the Spaniards that it was agreed between them and their Companions on board to make two great Smokes at a distance from each other assoon as the Town should be taken as a signal to the Ship that it might safely enter the Harbour The Spaniards made these Smokes presently I was then among those who stay'd on board and whether the signal was not so exactly made or some other discouragement happen'd I remember not but we forbore going in till we saw our scatter'd Crew coming off in their Canoas Had we entred the Port upon the false signal we must have been taken or sunk for we must have past close by the Fort and could have had no Wind to bring us out till the Land-wind should rise in the night But to our present Voyage After we came aboard we saw the Volcan of Colima This is a very high Mountain in about 18d 36m North standing 5 or 6 leagues from the Sea in the midst of a pleasant Valley It appears with 2 sharp peeks from each of which there do always issue flames of fire or smoke The Valley in which this Volcan stands is called the Valley of Colima from the Town itself which stands there not far from the Volcan The Town is said to be great and rich the chief of all its Neighborhood and the Valley in which it is seated by the relation which the Spaniards give of it is the most pleasant and fruitful Valley in all the Kingdom of Mexico This Valley is about 10 or 12 leagues wide by the Sea where it makes a small Bay but how far the Vale runs into the Country I know not It is said to befull of Cacao gardens fields of Corn Wheat and Plantain-walks The neighbouring Sea is bounded with a sandy shore but there is no going ashore for the violence of the waves The Land within it is low all along and Woody for about 2 leagues from the East side at the end of the Woods there is a deep River runs out into the Sea but it hath such a great Bar or Sandy shole that when we were here no Boat or Canoa could possibly enter the Sea running so high upon the Bar otherwise I judge we should have made some farther discovery into this pleasant Valley On the West side of the River the Savannah land begins and runs to the other side of the Valley We had but little wind when we came aboard therefore we lay off this Bay that afternoon and the night ensuing The 29th day our Captains went away from our Ships with 200 men intending at the first convenient place to land and search about for a path for the Spanish Books make mention of 2 or 3 other Towns hereabouts especially one called Sallagua to the West of this Bay Our Canoas rowed along as near the shore as they could but the Sea went so high that they could not land About 10 or 11 a clock 2 Horsemen came near the shore and one of them took a Bottle out of his pocket and drank to ourmen While he was drinking one of our men snatcht up his Gun and let drive at him and kill'd his Horse so his consort immediately set Spurs to his Horse and rode away leaving the other to come after afoot But he being Booted made but slow haste therefore 2 of our men stript themselves and swam ashore to take him but he had a Macheat or long Knife wherewith he kept them both from seizing him they having nothing in their hands wherewith to defend themselves or offend him The 30th day our men came all aboard again for they could not find any place to land in The first day of December we passed by the Port of Sallagua This Port is in lat 18 d. 52 m. It is only a pretty deep Bay divided in the middle with a rocky point which makes as it were two Harbours Ships may ride securely in either but the West Harbour is the best there is good anchoring any where in 10 or 12 fathom and a Brook of fresh Water runs into the Sea Here we saw a great new thatched House and a great many Spaniards both Horse and Foot with Drums beating and Colours flying in defiance of us as we thought We took no notice of them till the next morning and then we landed about 200 Men to try their Courage but they presently withdrew The Foot never stay'd to exchange one shot but the Horsemen stay'd till 2 or 3 were knocked down and then they drew off our Men pursuing them At last 2 of our Men took 2 Horses that had lost their Riders and mounting them rode after the Spaniards full drive till they came among them thinking to have taken a Prisoner for Intelligence but had like to have been taken themselves for 4 Spaniards surrounded them after they had discharged their Pistols and unhorsed them and if some of our best Footmen had not come to their rescue they must have yielded or have been killed They were both cut in 2 or 3 places but their wounds were not mortal The 4 Spaniards got away before our Men could hurt them and mounting their Horses speeded after their Consorts who were marched away into the Country Our Men finding a broad Road leading into the Country followed it about 4 leagues in a dry stony Country full of short Woods but finding no sign of Inhabitants they returned again In their way back they took two Mulatto's who were not able to march as fast as their Consorts therefore they had skulked in the Woods and by that means thought to have escaped our Men. These Prisoners informed us that this great Road did lead to a great City called Oarrha from whence many of those Horsemen before spoken of came that this City was distant from hence as far as a Horse will go in 4 days and that there is no place of consequence nearer that the Country is very poor and thinly inhabited They said also that these Men came to assist the Phillippine Ship that was every day expected here to put ashore Passengers for Mexico The Spanish Pilot-Books mention a Town also called Sallagua hereabouts but we could not find it nor hear any thing of it by our Prisoners We now intended to cruize off of Cape
Corrientes to wait for the Phillippine Ship So the 6th day of December we set sail coasting to the Westwards towards Cape Corrientes We had fair weather and but little Wind the Sea breezes at N. W. and the Land-wind at N. The Land is of an indifferent heighth full of ragged points which at a distance appear like Islands the Country is very woody but the Trees are not high nor very big Here I was taken sick of a Fever and Ague that afterwards turned to a Dropsy which I laboured under a long time after and many of our Men died of this distemper though our Surgeons used their greatest skill to preserve their lives The Dropsy is a general distemper on this Coast and the Natives say that the best remedy they can find for it is the Stone or Cod of an Allegator of which they have 4 one near each Leg within the Flesh pulverized and drunk in Water this Receipt we also found mentioned in an Almanack made at Mexico I would have tried it but we found no Allegators here though there are several There are many good Harbours between Sallagua and Cape Corrientes but we passed by them all As we drew near the Cape the Land by the Sea appeared of an indifferent heighth full of white Cliffs but in the Country the Land is high and barren and full of sharp peeked Hills unpleasant to the sight To the West of this ragged Land is a chain of Mountains running parallel with the shore they end on the West with a gentle descent but on the East side they keep their heighth ending with a high steep Mountain which hath 3 small sharp peeked tops somewhat resembling a Crown and therefore called by the Spaniards Coronada the Crown Land The 11th day we were fair in sight of Cape Corrientes it bore N. by W. and the Crown Land bore North. The Cape is of an indifferent heighth with steep Rocks to the Sea It is flat and even on the top cloathed with Woods the Land in the Country is high and doubled This Cape lieth in 20 d. 28 m. North. I find its longitude from Tenariff to be 230 d. 56 m. but I keep my longitude Westward according to our course and according to this reckoning I find it is from the Lizard in England 121 d. 41 m. so that the difference of time is 8 hours and almost 6 minutes Here we had resolved to cruize for the Phillippine Ship because she always makes this Cape in her Voyage homeward We were as I have said 4 Ships in company Captain Swan and his Tender Captain Townly and his Tender It was so ordered that Captain Swan should lye 8 or 10 leagues off shore and the rest about a league distant each from other between him and the Cape that so we might not miss the Philippine Ship but we wanted Provision and therefore we sent Captain Townly's Bark with 50 or 60 men to the West of the Cape to search about for some Town or Plantations where we might get Provision of any sort The rest of us in the mean time cruizing in our stations The 17th day the Bark came to us again but had got nothing for they could not get about the Cape because the wind on this Coast is commonly between the N. W. and the S. W. which makes it very difficult getting to the Westward but they left 4 Canoas with 46 men at the Cape who resolved to row to the Westward The 18th day we sailed to the Keys of Chametly to fill our Water These Keys or Islands of Chametly are about 16 or 18 leagues to the Eastward of Cape Corrientes They are small low and woody invironed with Rocks there are 5 of them lying in the form of a half Moon not a mile from the shore and between them and the Main is very good Riding secure from any Wind. The Spaniards do report that here live Fishermen to fish for the Inhabitants of the City of Purification This is said to be a large Town the best hereabouts but is 14 leagues up in the Country The 20th instant we entered within these Islands passing in on the S. E. side and anchored between the Islands and the Main in 5 fathom clean Sand. Here we found good fresh Water and Wood and caught plenty of Rock-fish with Hook and Line a sort of Fish I describ'd at the Isle of John Fernando but we saw no sign of Inhabitants besides 3 or 4 old Hutts therefore I do believe that the Spanish or Indian Fishermen come hither only at Lent or some other such season but that they do not live here constantly The 21st day Captain Townly went away with about 60 men to take an Indian Village 7 or 8 leagues from hence to the Westward more towards the Cape and the next day we went to cruize off the Cape where Captain Townly was to meet us The 24th day as we were cruizing off the Cape the 4 Canoas before mentioned which Captain Townly's Bark left at the Cape came off to us They after the Bark left them past to the West of the Cape and rowed into the Valley Valderas or perhaps Val d' Iris for it signifies the Valley of Flags This Valley lies in the bottom of a pretty deep Bay that runs in between Cape Corrientes on the S. E. and the point of Pontique on the N. W. which two places are about 10 leagues asunder The Valley is about 3 leagues wide there is a level sandy Bay against the Sea and good smooth landing In the midst of the Bay is a fine River whereinto Boats may enter but it is brackish at the latter end of the dry Season which is in February March and part of April I shall speak more of the Seasons in my Chapter of Winds in the Appendix This Valley is bounded within Land with a small green Hill that makes a very gentle descent into the Valley and affords a very pleasant prospect to Sea-ward It is inriched with fruitful Savannahs mixt with Groves of Trees fit for any uses beside Fruit Trees in abundance as Guava's Oranges and Limes which here grow wild in such plenty as if Nature had designed it only for a Garden The Savannahs are full of fat Bulls and Cows and some Horses but no House in sight When our Canoas came to this pleasant Valley they landed 37 men and marched into the Country seeking for some Houses They had not gone past 3 mile before they were attackt by 150 Spaniards Horse and Foot There was a small thin Wood close by them into which our men retreated to secure themselves from the fury of the Horse Yet the Spaniards rode in among them and attackt them very furiously till the Spnnish Captain and 17 more tumbled dead off their Horses then the rest retreated being many of them wounded We lost 4 men and had 2 desperately wounded In this action the Foot who were armed with Lances and Swords and were the greatest number never made any attack
the Horse-men had each abrace of Pistols and some short Guns If the Foot had come in they had certainly destroy'd all our men When the skirmish was over our men plac'd the two wounded men on Horses and came to their Canoas There they kill'd one of the Horses and drest it being afraid to venture into the Savannah to kill a Bullock of which there was store When they had eaten and satisfy'd themselves they returned aboard The 25th day being Christmas we cruized in pretty near the Cape and sent in 3 Canoas with the Strikers to get Fish being desirous to have a Christmas dinner In the afternoon they returned aboard with 3 great Jew-fish which feasted us all and the next day we sent ashore our Canoas again and got 3 or 4 more Captain Townly who went from us at Chametly came aboard the 28th day and brought about 40 bushels of Maiz. He had landed to the Eastward of Cape Corrientes and march'd to an Indian Village that is 4 or 5 leagues in the Country The Indians seeing him coming set 2 houses on fire that were full of Maiz and run away Yet he and his men got in other houses as much as they could bring down on their backs which he brought aboard We cruized off the Cape till the first day of January 1686 and then made towards the Valley Valderas to hunt for Beef and before night we anchored in the bottom of the Bay in 60 fathom water a mile from the shore Here we stay'd hunting till the 7th day and Captain Swan and Captain Townly went ashore every morning with about 240 men and marched to a small hill where they remain'd with 50 or 60 men to watch the Spaniards who appear'd in great companies on other hills not far distant but did never attempt any thing against our men Here we kill'd and salted above 2 months meat besides what we spent fresh and might have kill'd as much more if we had been better stor'd with Salt Our hopes of meeting the Philippine Ship were now over for we did all conclude that while we were necessitated to hunt here for Provisions she was past by to the Eastward as indeed she was as we did understand afterwards by Prisoners So this design fail'd through Captain Townley's eagerness after the Lima Ship which he attempted in Acapulco Harbour as as I have related For though we took a little Flower hard by yet the same Guide which told us of that Ship would have conducted us where we might had store of Beef and Maiz but instead thereof we lost both our time and the opportunity of providing our selves and so were forced to be victualling when we should have been cruizing off Cape Corrientes in expectation of the Manila Ship Hitherto we had coasted along here with 2 different designs The one was to get the Manila Ship which would have enriched us beyond measure and this Captain Townly was most for Sir Tho. Cavendish formerly took the Manila Ship off Cape St. Lucas in California where we also would have waited for her had we been early enough stored with Provisions to have met her there and threw much rich Goods over-board The other design which Captain Swan and our Crew were most for was to search along the Coast for rich Towns and Mines chiefly of Gold and Silver which we were assured were in this Country and we hoped near the shore not knowing as we afterwards found that it was in effect an Inland Country its Wealth remote from the South Sea Coast and having little or no commerce with it its Trade being driven Eastward with Europe by La Vera Cruz. Yet we had still some expectation of Mines and so resolved to steer on farther Northward But Captain Townly who had no other design in coming on this Coast but to meet this Ship resolved to return again towards the Coast of Peru. In all this Voyage on the Mexican Coast we had with us a Captain and 2 or 3 of his Men of our friendly Inaians of the Isthmus of Darien who having conducted over some Parties of our Privateers and expressing a desire to go along with us were received and kindly entertained aboard our Ships and we were pleas'd in having by this means Guides ready provided should we be for returning over Land as several of us thought to do rather than sail round about But at this time we of Captain Swan's Ship designing farther to the North West and Captain Townly going back we committed these our Indian Friends to his care to carry them home So here we parted he to the East-ward and we to the Westward intending to search as far to the Westward as the Spaniards were settled It was the 7th day of January in the morning when we sailed from this pleasant Valley The Wind was at N. E. and the weather fair At 11 a clock the Sea-wind came at N. W. Before night we passed by Point Pontique this is the West point of the Bay of the Valley of Valderas and is distant from Cape Corrientes 10 leagues This point is in lat 20 d. 50 m. North it is high round rocky and barren At a distance it appears like an Island A league to the West of this point are two small barren Islands called the Islands of Pontique There are several high sharp white Rocks that lye scattering about them we past between these rocky Islands on the left and the Main on the right for there is no danger The Sea-coast beyond this point runs Northward for about 18 leagues making many ragged points with small sandy Bays between them The Land by the Sea side is low and pretty woody but in the Country full of high sharp barren rugged unpleasant Hills The 14th day we had sight of a small white Rock which appears very much like a Ship under sail This Rock is in lat 21 d. 15 m. it is 3 leagues from the Main There is a good Channel between it and the Main where you will have 12 or 14 fathom water near the Island but running nearer the Main you will have gradual soundings till you come in with the shore At night we anchored in 6 fathom water near a league from the Main in good oazy ground We caught a great many Cat-fish here and at several places on this Coast both before and after this From this Island the Land runs more Northerly making a fair sandy Bay But the Sea falls in with such violence on the Shore that there is no landing but very good anchoring on all the Coast and gradual soundings About a league off shore you will have 6 fathom and 4 mile off shore you will have 7 fathom water We came to an anchor every evening and in the mornings we sailed off with the Land-wind which we found at N. E. and the Sea-breezes at N. W. The 20th day we anchored about 3 miles on the East side of the Islands Chametly different from those of that name before-mentioned for
these are 6 small Islands in lat 23 d. 11 m. a little to the South of the Tropick of Cancer and about 3 leagues from the Main where a Salt-Lake hath its out-let into the Sea These Isles are of an indifferent heighth Some of them have a few shrubby bushes the rest are bare of any sort of Wood. They are rocky round by the Sea only one or two of them have sandy Bays on the North side There is a sort of Fruit growing on these Islands called Penguins and 't is all the Fruit they have The Penguin Fruit is of two sorts the yellow and the red The yellow Penguin grows on a green stem as big as a Man's Arm above a foot high from the ground The leaves of this stalk are half a foot long and an inch broad the edges full of sharp prickles The Fruit grows at the head of the stalk in 2 or 3 great clusters 16 or 20 in a cluster The Fruit is as big as a Pullets Egg of a round form and in colour yellow It has a thick skin or rind and the inside is full of small black seeds mixt among the Fruit. It is a sharp pleasant Fruit. The red Penguin is of the bigness and colour of a small dry Onion and is in shape much like a Nine-pin for it grows not on a stalk or stem as the other but one end on the ground the other standing upright 60 or 70 grow thus together as close as they can stand one by another and all from the same root or cluster of roots These Penguins are encompast or fenced with long leaves about a foot and an half or 2 foot long and prickly like the former and the Fruit too is much alike They are both wholsom and never offend the stomach but those that eat many will find a heat or tickling in their Fundament They grow so plentifully in the Bay of Campeachy that there is no passing for their high prickly leaves There are some Guanoes on these Islands but no other sort of Land Animal The Bays about the Islands are sometimes visited with Seal and this was the first place where I had seen any of these Animals on the North side of the Equator in these Seas For the Fish on this sandy Coast lye most in the Lagunes or Salt-lakes and mouths of Rivers but the Seals come not so much there as I judge for this being no rocky Coast where Fish resort most there seems to be but little food for the Seals unless they will venture upon Cat fish Captain Swan went away from hence with 100 Men in our Canoas to the Northward to seek for the River Coolecan possibly the same with the River of Pastla which some Maps lay down in the Province or Region of Cullacan This River lieth in about 24 d. N. lat We were informed that there is a fair and rich Spanish Town seated on the East side of it with Savannahs about it full of Bulls and Cows and that the Inhabitants of this Town pass over in Boats to the Island California where they fish for Pearl I have been told since by a Spaniard that said he had been at the Island California that there are great plenty of Pearl-Oysters there and that the Native Indians of California near the Pearlfishery are mortal Enemies to the Spaniards Our Canoas were absent 3 or 4 days and said they had been above 30 leagues but found no River that the Land by the Sea was low and all sandy Bay but such a great Sea that there was no landing They met us in their return in the lat 23 d. 30 m. coasting along shore after them towards Cullacan so we returned again to the Eastward This was the farthest that I was to the North on this Coast. 6 or 7 leagues N. N. W. from the Isles of Chametly there is a small narrow entrance into a Lake which runs about 12 leagues Easterly parallel with the shore making many small low Mangrove Islands The mouth of this Lake is in lat about 23 d. 30 m. It is called by the Spaniards Rio de Sal for it is a Salt Lake There is Water enough for Boats and Canoas to enter and smooth landing after you are in On the West side of it there is an House and an Estantion or Farm of large Cattel Our Men went into the Lake and landed and coming to the House found 7 or 8 Bushels of Maiz but the Cattle were driven away by the Spaniards yet there our Men took the Owner of the Estantion and brought him aboard He said that the Beefs were driven a great way into the Country for fear we should kill them While we lay here Captain Swan went into this lake again and landed 150 Men on the N. E. side and marched into the Country About a mile from the landing place as they were entring a dry Salina or Salt-pond they fired at two Indians that crost the way before them one of them being wounded in the thigh fell down and being examined he told our Men that there was an Indian Town 4 or 5 leagues off and that the way which they were going would bring them thither While they were in discourse with the Indian they were attacqued by 100 Spanish Horsemen who came with a design to scare them back but wanted both Arms and Hearts to do it Our Men past on from hence and in their way marched through a Savannah of long dry Grass This the Spaniards set on fire thinking to burn them but that did not hinder our Men from marching forward though it did trouble them a little They rambled for want of Guides all this day and part of the next before they came to the Town the Indian spake of There they found a company of Spaniards and Indians who made head against them but were driven out of the Town after a short dispute Here our Chirurgeon and one Man more were wounded with Arrows but none of the rest were hurt When they came into the Town they found 2 or 3 Indians wounded who told them that the Name of the Town was Massaclan that there were a few Spaniards living in it and the rest were Indians that 5 leagues from this Town there were 2 rich Gold Mines where the Spaniards of Compostella which is the chiefest Town in these parts kept many Slaves and Indians at work for Gold Here our Men lay that night and the next morning packt up all the Maiz that they could find and brought it on their backs to the Canoas and came aboard We lay here till the 2d of February and then Captain Swan went away with about 80 Men to the River Rosario whâ—…re they landed and marched to an Indian Town of the same Name They found it about 9 mile from the Sea the way to it fair and even This was a fine little Town of about 60 or 70 Houses with a fair Church and it was chiefly inhabited with Indians They took Prisoners there which
Fruit there is also a sort of VVine drawn from the Tree called Toddy which looks like VVhey It is sweet and very pleasant but it is to be drunk within 24 hours after it is drawn for afterwards it grows sowre Those that have a great many Trees draw a spirit from the sowre Wine called Arack Arack is distill'd also from Rice and other things in the East Indies but none is so much esteemed for making Punch as this sort made of Toddi or the sap of the Coco-nut Tree for it makes most delicate Punch but it must have a dash of Brandy to hearten it because this Arack is not strong enough to make good Punch of it self This sort of Liquor is chiefly used about Goa and therefore it has the name of Goa Arack The way of drawing the Toddi from the Tree is by cutting the top of a Branch that would bear Nuts but before it has any Fruit and from thence the Liquor which was to feed its Fruit distils into the hole of a Callabash that is hung upon it This Branch continues running almost as long as the Fruit would have been growing and then it dries away The Tree hath usually 3 fruitful Branches which if they be all tapp'd thus then the Tree bears no Fruit that year but if one or two only be tapp'd the other will bear Fruit all the while The Liquor which is thus drawn is emptied out of the Callabash duly morning and evening so long as it continues running and is sold every morning and evening in most Towns in the East Indies and great gains is produced from it even this way but those that distil it and make Arack reap the greatest profit There is also great profit made of the Fruit both of the Nut and the Shell The Kernel is much used in making Broath When the Nut is dry they take off the husk and giving two good blows on the middle of the Nut it breaks in two equal parts letting the Water fall on the ground then with a small iron Rasp made for the purpose the Kernel or Nut is rasped out clean which being put into a little fresh Water makes it become white as Milk In this milky Water they boil a Fowl or any sort of Flesh and it makes very savory Broath English Seamen put this Water into boil'd Rice which they eat instead of Rice-milk carrying Nuts purposely to Sea with them This they learn from the Natives But the greatest use of the Kernel is to make Oyl both for burning and for frying The way to make the Oyl is to grate or rasp the Kernel and steep it in fresh water then boil it and scum off the Oil at top as it rises but the Nuts that make the Oyl ought to be a long time gathered so as that the Kernel may be turning soft and oily The Shell of this Nut is used in the East Indies for Cups Dishes Ladles Spoons and in a manner for all eating and drinking vessels 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 shaped Nuts are often brought home to Europe and much esteemed The husk of the Shell is of great use to make Cables for the dry husk is full of small strings and threads which being beaten become soft and the other substance which was mixt among it falls away like Saw-dust leaving only the strings These are afterwards spun into long yarns and twisted up into balls for convenience and many of these Rope-yarns joyned together make good Cables This Manufactory is chiefly used at the Maldive Islands and the threads sent in balls into all places that trade thither purposely for to make Cables I made a Cable at Achin with some of it These are called Coire Cables they will last very well But there is another sort of Coire Cables as they are called that are black and more strong and lasting and are made of strings that grow like Horse-hair at the heads of certain Trees almost like the Coco-nut-tree This sort comes most from the Island Timor In the South Seas the Spaniards do make Oakam to chalk their Ships with the husk of the Coco-nut which is more serviceable than that made of hemp and they say it will never rot I have been told by Captain Knox who wrote the Relation of Ceylon that in some places of India they make a sort of coarse Cloath of the husk of the Coco-nut which is used for Sails I my self have seen a sort of course Sail-cloath made of such a kind of substance but whether the same or no I know not I have been the longer on this subject to give the Reader a particular Account of the use and profit of a Vegetable which is possibly of all others the most generally serviceable to the conveniencies as well as the necessities of humane Life Yet this Tree that is of such great use and esteemed so much in the East Indies is scarce regarded in the West Indies for want of the knowledge of the benefit which it may produce And t is partly for the sake of my Countrymen in our American Plantations that I have spoken so largely of it For the hot Climates there are a very propersoil for it and indeed it is so hardy both in the raising it and when grown that it will thrive as well in dry sandy ground as in rich land I have found them growing very well in low sandy Islands on the West of Sumatra that are over-flowed with the Sea every Spring-tide and though the Nuts there are not very big yet this is no loss for the Kernel is thick and sweet and the Milk or VVater in the inside is more pleasant and sweet than of the Nuts that grow in rich ground which are commonly large indeed but not very sweet These at Guam growing in dry ground are of a middle size and I think the sweetest that I did ever taste Thus much for the Coco-nut The Lime is a sort of bastard or Crab-limon The Tree or Bush that bears it is prickly like a Thorn growing full of small boughs In Jamaica and other places they make of the Lime-Bush Fences about Gardens or any other Inclosure by planting the seeds close together which growing up thick spread abroad and make a very good Hedge The Fruit is like a Lemon but smaller the rind thin and the inclosed substance full of juice The juice is very tart yet of a pleasant taste if sweetned with Sugar It is chiefly used for making Punch both in the East and West Indies as well ashore as at Sea and much of it is for that purpose yearly brought home to England from our West India Plantations It is also used for a particular kind of Sauce which is called Pepper-Sauce and is made of Cod-pepper commonly called Guinea-pepper boiled in Water and then pickled with Salt and mixt with Lime-juice to preserve it Limes grow plentifully in the East and West Indies within the Tropicks The Bread-fruit as we call it grows on a large Tree as big and high as our
the S. E. end of the Island Mindanao we saw two small Islands about 3 leagues distant from it We might have passed between them and the main Island as we learnt since but not knowing them nor what dangers we might encounter there we chose rather to sail to the Eastward of them But meeting very strong Westerly Winds we got nothing forward in many days In this time we first saw the Islands Meangis which are about 16 leagues distant from the Mindanao bearing S. E. I shall have occasion to speak more of them hereafter The 4th day of July we got into a deep Bay 4 leagues N. W. from the two small Islands before mentioned But the night before in a violent Tornado our Bark being unable to beat any longer bore away which put us in some pain for fear she was overset as we had like to have been our selves We anchored on the South West side of the Bay in 15 fathom Water about a Cables length from the shore Here we were forced to shelter our selves from the violence of the Weather which was so boisterous with Rains and Tornadoes and a strong Westerly Wind that we were very glad to find this place to anchor in being the only shelter on this side from the West Winds This Bay is not above two mile wide at the mouth but farther in it is 3 leagues wide and 7 leagues deep running in N. N. W. There is a good depth of Water about 4 or 5 leagues in but rocky foul ground for above 2 leagues in from the mouth on both sides of the Bay except only in that place where we lay About 3 leagues in from the mouth on the Eastern side there are fair sandy Bays and very good anchoring in 4 5 and 6 fathom The Land on the East side is high mountainous and woody yet very well watered with small Brooks and there is one River large enough for Canoas to enter On the West side of the Bay the Land is of a mean heighth with a large Savannah bordering on the Sea and stretching from the mouth of the Bay a great way to the Westward This Savannah abounds with long Grass and it is plentifully stock'd with Deer The adjacent Woods are a covert for them in the heat of the day but mornings and evenings they feed in the open Plains as thick as in our Parks in England I never saw any where such plenty of wild Deer tho I have met with them in several parts of America both in the North and South Seas The Deer live here pretty peaceably and unmolested for there are no Inhabitants on that side of the Bay We visited this Savannah every morning and killed as many Deer as we pleased sometimes 16 or 18 in a day and we did eat nothing but Venison all the time we staid here We saw a great many Plantations by the sides of the Mountains on the East side of the Bay and we went to one of them in hopes to learn of the Inhabitants whereabouts the City was that we might not over-sail it in the night but they fled from us We lay here till the 12th day before the Winds abated of their fury and then we sailed from hence directing our course to the Westward In the morning we had a Land Wind at North. At 11 a clock the Sea breeze came at West just in our Teeth but it being fair weather we kept on our way turning and taking the advantage of the Land breezes by night and the Sea breezes by day Being now past the S. E. part of the Island we coasted down on the South side and we saw abundance of Canoas a fishing and now and then a small Village Neither were these Inhabitants afraid of us as the former but came aboard yet we could not understand them nor they us but by signs and when we mentioned the word Mindanao they would point towards it The 18th day of July we arrived before the River of Mindanao the mouth of which lies in lat 6 d. 22 m. No. and is laid in 231 d. 12 m. Longitude West from the Lizard in England We anchored right against the River in 15 fathom water clear hard Sand about 2 miles from the shore and 3 or 4 miles from a small Island that lay without us to the Southward We fired 7 or 9 Guns I remember not well which and were answered again with 3 from the shore for which we gave one again Immediately after our coming to an anchor Raja Laut and one of the Sultans Sons came off in a Canoa being rowed with 10 Oars and demanded in Spanish what we were and from whence we came Mr. Smith he who was taken Prisoner at Leon in Mexico answered in the same Language that we were English and that we had been a great while out of England They told us that we were welcom and asked us a great many questions about England especially concerning our East India Merchants and whether we were sent by them to settle a Factory here Mr. Smith told them that we came hither only to buy provision They seemed a little discontented when they understood that we were not come to settle among them for they had heard of our arrival on the East side of the Island a great while before and entertained hopes that we were sent purposely out of England hither to settle a trade with them which it should seem they are very desirous of For Captain Goodlud had been here not long before to treat with them about it and when he went away told them as they said that in a short time they might expect an Ambassadour from England to make a full bargain with them Indeed upon mature thoughts I should think we could not have done better than to have complied with the desire they seemed to have of our settling here and to have taken up our quarters among them For as thereby we might better have consulted our own profit and satisfaction than by the other loose roving way of life so it might probably have proved of publick benefit to our Nation and been a means of introducing an English Settlement and Trade not only here but through several of the Spice-Islands which lye in its neighbourhood For the Islands Meangis which I mentioned in the beginning of this Chapter lye within 20 leagues of Mindanao These are 3 small Islands that abound with Gold and Cloves if I may credit my Author Prince Jeoly who was born on one of them and was at this time a Slave in the City of Mindanao He might have been purchased by us of his Master for a small matter as he was afterwards by Mr. Moody who came hither to Trade and laded a Ship with Clove Bark and by transporting him home to his own Country we might have gotten a Trade there But of Prince Jeoly I shall speak more hereafter These Islands are as yet probably unknown to the Dutch who as I said before indeavour to ingross all
the Spice into their own hands There was another opportunity offered us here of settling on another Spice Island that was very well inhabited for the Inhabitants fearing the Dutch and understanding that the English were settling at Mindanao their Sultan sent his Nephew to Mindanao while we were there to invite us thither Captain Swan conferr'd with him about it divers times and I do believe he had some inclination to accept the offer and I am sure most of the men were for it but this never came to a head for want of a true understanding between Captain Swan and his Men as may be declared hereafter Beside the benefit which might accrue from this Trade with Meangis and other the Spice Islands the Philippine Islands themselves by a little care and industry might have afforded us a very beneficial Trade and all these Trades might have been managed from Mindanao by settling there first For that Island lyeth very convenient for Trading either to the Spice Islands or to the rest of the Philippine Islands since as its Soil is much of the same nature with either of them so it lies as it were in the Center of the Gold and Spice Trade in these parts the Islands North of Mindanao abounding most in Gold and those South of Meangis in Spice As the Island Mindanao lies very convenient for Trade so considering its distance the way thither may not be over long and tiresome The course that I would choose should be to set out of England about the latter end of August and to pass round Terra del Fuego and so stretching over towards New Holland coast it along that shore till I came near to Mindanao or first I would coast down near the American shore as far as I found convenient and then direct my course accordingly for the Island By this I should avoid coming near any of the Dutch settlements and be sure to meet always with a constant brisk Easterly Trade Wind after I was once past Terra del Fuego Whereas in passing about the Cape of Good Hope after you are shot over the East Indian Ocean and are come to the Islands you must past thro the Streights of Malacca or Sundy or else some other Streights East from Java where you will be sure to meet with Counter-winds go on which side of the Equator you please and this would require ordinarily 7 or 8 months for the Voyage but the other I should hope to perform in 6 or 7 at most In your return from thence also you must observe the same Rule as the Spaniards do in going from Manila to Acapulco only as they run towards the North Pole for variable Winds so you must run to the South-ward till you meet with a Wind that will carry you over to Terra del Fuego There are places enough to touch at for Refreshments either going or coming You may touch going thither on either side of Terra Patagonica or if you please at the Gallapagoes Islands where there is Refreshment enough and returning you may probably touch somewhere on New Holland and so make some profitable discovery in these places without going out of your way And to speak my thoughts freely I believe 't is owing to the neglect of this easy way that all that vast Tract of Terra Australis which bounds the South Sea is yet undiscovered those that cross that Sea seeming to design some business on the Peruvian or Mexican Coast and so leaving that at a distance To confirm which I shall add what Captain Davis told me lately that after his Departure from us at the Haven of Ria Lexa as is mentioned in the 8th Chap. he went after several Traverses to the Gallapagoes and that standing thence Southward for Wind to bring him about Terra del Fuego in the Lat. of 27 South about 500 leagues from Copayapo on the Coast of Chili he saw a small sandy Island just by him and that they saw to the Westward of it a long tract of pretty high Land tending away toward the North West out of sight This might probably be the Coast of Terra Australis Incognita But to return to Mindanao as to the capacity we were then in of setting our selves at Mindanao although we were not sent out of any such design of settling yet we were as well provided or better considering all circumstances than if we had For there was scarce any useful Trade but some or others of us understood it We had Sawyers Carpenters Joyners Brickmakers Bricklayers Shoemakers Taylors c. we only wanted a good Smith for great work which we might have had at Mindanao We were very well provided with Iron Lead and all sorts of Tools as Saws Axes Hammers c. We had Powder and Shot enough and very good small Arms. If we had designed to build a Fort we could have spared 8 or 10 Guns out of our Ship and Men enough to have managed it and any affair of Trade beside We had also a great advantage above raw Men that are sent out of England into these places who proceed usually too cautiously coldly and formerly to compass any considerable design which Experience better teaches than any Rules whatsoever besides the danger of their Lives in so great and sudden a a change of Air whereas we were all inured to hot Climates hardned by many fatigues and in general daring Men and such as would not be easily baffled To add one thing more our Men were almost tired and began to desire a quietus est and therefore they would gladly have seated themselves any where We had a good Ship too and enough of us beside what might have been spared to manage our new Settlement to bring the News with the effects to the Owners in England for Captain Swan had already 5000 l. in Gold which he and his Merchants received for goods sold mostly to Captain Harris and his men which if he had laid but part of it out in Spice as probably he might have done would have satisfy'd the Merchants to their hearts content So much by way of digression To proceed therefore with our first Reception at Mindanao Raja Laut and his Nephew sat still in their Canoa and would not come aboard us because as they said they had no orders for it from the Sultan After about half an hours discourse they took their leaves first inviting Captain Swan ashore and promising him to assist him in getting provision which they said at present was scarce but in 3 or 4 months time the Rice would be gathered in and then he might have as much as he pleased and that in the mean time he might secure his Ship in some convenient place for fear of the Westerly winds which they said would be very violent at the latter end of this month and all the next as we found them We did not know the quality of these two persons till after they were gone else we should have fir'd some Guns
for the Europeans coming Eastward by the Cape of Good Hope in a course contrary to the Sun and us where-ever we met they were a full day before us in their Accounts So among the Indian Mahometans here their Friday the day of their Sultans going to their Mosques was Thursday with us though it were Friday also with those who came Eastward from Europe Yet at the Ladrone Islands we found the Spaniards of Guam keeping the same computation with our selves the reason of which I take to be that they settled that Colony by a course Westward from Spain the Spaniards going first to America and thence to the Ladrones and Philippines But how the reckoning was at Manila and the rest of the Spanish Colonies in the Philippine Islands I know not whether they keep it as they brought it or corrected it by the Accounts of the Natives and of the Portuguese Dutch and English coming the contrary way from Europe One great reason why Seamen ought to keep the difference of time as exact as they can is that they may be the more exact in their Lo ngitude For our Tables of the Suns declination being calculated for the Meridians of the places in which they were made differ about 12 minutes from those parts of the World that lie on their opposite Meridians in the months of March and September and in proportion to the Suns declination at other times of the year also And should they run farther as we did the difference would still increase upon them and be an occasion of great errours Yet even able Seamen in these Voyages are hardly made sensible of this tho so necessary to be observed for want of duly attending to the reason of it as it happened among those of our crew who after we had past 180 degrees began to decrease the difference of declination whereas they ought still to have increased it for it all the way increased upon us We had the Wind at N. N. E. fair clear Weather and a brisk gale We coasted to the West-ward on the South side of the Island Mindanao keeping within 4 or 5 leagues of the shore The Land from hence trends away W. by S. It is of a good heighth by the Sea and very Woody and in the Country we say high Hills The next day we were abrest off Chambongo a Town in this Island and 30 leagues from the River of Mindanao Here is said to be a good Harbour and a great settlement with plenty of Beef and Buffaloe It is reported that the Spaniards were formerly fortified here also There are 2 shoals lie off this place 2 or 3 leagues from the shore From hence the Land is more low and even yet there are some Hills in the Country About 6 leagues before we came to the West end of the Island Mindanao we fell in with a great many small low Islands or Keys and about 2 or 3 leagues to the Southward of these Keys there is a long Island stretching N. E. and S. W. about 12 leagues This Island is low by the Sea on the North side and has a ridge of Hills in the middle running from one end to the other Between this Island and the small Keys there is a good large Channel Among the Keys also there is good depth of Water and a violent Tide but on what point of the compass it flows I know not nor how much it riseth and falls The 17th day we anchored on the East side of all these Keys in 8 fathom water clean Sand. Here are plenty of green Turtle whose flesh is as sweet as any in the West Indies but they are very shy A little to the Westward of these Keys on the Island Mindanan we saw abundance of Coco-nut Trees Therefore we sent our Canoa ashore thinking to find Inhabitants but found none nor sign of any but great tracks of Hogs and great Cattle and close by the Sea there were the ruins of an old Fort. The Walls thereof were of a good heighth built with Stone and Lime and by the Wokrmanship seem'd to be Spanish From this place the Land trends W. N. W. and is of an indifferent heighth by the Sea It run on this point of the Compass 4 or 5 leagues and then the Land trends away N. N. W. 5 or 6 leagues farther making with many bluff points We weigh'd again the 14th day and went thro between the Keys but met such uncertain Tydes that we were forced to anchor again The 22d day we got about the Westermost point of all Mindanao and stood to the Northward plying under the shore and having the Wind at N. N. E. a fresh gale As we sailed along further we found the Land to trend N. N. E. On this part of the Island the Land is high by the Sea with full bluff points and very Woody There are some small sandy Bays which afford streams of fresh Water Here we met with two Proe's belonging to the 〈◊〉 one of the Mindanaian Nations before mentioned They came from Manila laden with Silks and Calicoes We kept on this Western part of the Island steering Northerly till we came abrest of some other of the Philippine Islands that lay to the Northward of us then steered away towards them but still keeping on the West side of them and we had the Winds at N. N. E. The 3d of February we anchored in a good bay on the West side of an Island in lat 9 d. 55 m. where we had 13 fathom Water good soft oaze This Island hath no name that we could find in any book but lieth on the West side of Island Sebo It is about 8 or 10 leagues long Mountainous and Woody At this place Captain Read who was the same Captain Swan had so much railed against in his Journal and was now made Captain in his room as Captain Teat was made Master and Mr. Henry More Quartermaster ordered the Carpenters to cut down our Quarter Deck to make the Ship snug and the fitter for sailing When that was done we heeled her scrubbed her bottom and tallowed it Then we fill'd all our Water for here is a delicate small run of Water The Land was pretty low in this Bay the Mould black and fat and the Trees of several kinds very thick and tall In some places we found plenty of Canes such as we use in England for Walking-canes These were short jointed not above two foot and a half or two foot ten inches the longest and most of them not above two foot They run along on the ground like a Vine or taking hold of the Trees they climb up to their very tops They are 15 or 20 fathom long and much of a bigness from the root till within 5 or 6 fathom of the end They are of a pale green colour cloathed over with a coat of a short thick hairy substance of a dun colour but it comes off by only drawing the Cane thro your hand We did cut many of them
and they proved very tough heavy Canes We saw no Houses nor sign of Inhabitants but while we lay here there was a Canoa with 6 men came into this Bay but whether they were bound or from whence they came I know not They were Indians and we could not understand them In the middle of this Bay about a mile from the shore there is small low woody Island not above a mile in circumference our Ship rode about a mile from it This Island was the habitation of an incredible number of great Batts with bodies as big as Ducks or larger Fowl and with vast Wings For I saw at Mindanao one of this sort and I judge that the Wings stretcht out in length could not be less asunder than 7 or 8 foot from tip to tip for it was much more than any of us could fathom with our Arms extended to the utmost The Wings are for substance like those of other Batts of a dun or mouse colour The Skin or Leather of them hath Ribs running along it and draws up in 3 or 4 folds and at the joints of those Ribs and the extremities of the Wings there are sharp crooked Claws by which they may hang on any thing In the evening as soon as the Sun was set these Creatures would begin to take their flight from this Island in swarms like Bees directing their flight over to the main Island and whether afterwards I know not Thus we should see them rising up from the Island till night hindred our sight and in the morning as soon as it was light we should see them returning again like a Cloud to the small Island till Sun rising This course they kept constantly while we lay here affording us every morning and evening an hours diversion in gazing at them and talking about them but our curiosity did not prevail with us to go ashore to them our selves and Canoas being all the day time taken up in business about our Ship At this Isle also we found plenty of Turtle and Manatee but no Fish We stay'd here till the 10th of February 1687 and then having compleated our business we sailed hence with the Wind at North. But going out we struck on a Rock where we lay two hours It was very smooth Water and the Tide of flood or else we should there have lost our Ship We struck off a great piece of our Rudder which was all the damage that we received but we more narrowly mist losing our Ship this time than in any other in the whole Voyage This is a very dangerous Shoal because it does not break unless probably it may appear in foul weather It lies about two mile to the Westward without the small Batt Island Here we found the Tide of flood setting to the Southward and the Ebb to the Northward After we were past this Shoal we coasted along by the rest of the Philippine Islands keeping on the West side of them Some of them appeared to be very Mountainous dry Land We saw many fires in the night as we passed by Panay a great Island settled by Spaniards and by the fires up and down it seems to be well settled by them for this is a Spanish custom whereby they give notice of any danger or the like from Sea and 't is probable they had seen our Ship the day before This is an unfrequented Coast and 't is rare to have any Ship seen there We touched not at Panay nor any where else tho we saw a great many small Islands to the Westward of us and some Shoals but none of them laid down in our draughts The 18th day of Feb. we anchored at the N. W. end of the Island Mindora in 10 fathom Water about 3 quarters of a mile from the shore Mindora is a large Island the middle of it lying in lat 13 about 40 leagues long stretching N. W. and S. E. It is high and Mountainous and not very woody At this place where we anchored the Land was neither very high nor low There was a small Brook of Water and the Land by the Sea was very woody and the Trees high and tall but a league or two farther in the Woods are very thin and small Here we saw great tracks of Hogs and Beef and we saw some of each and hunted them but they were wild and we could kill none While we were here there was a Canoa with 4 Indians came from Manila They were very shie of us a while but at last hearing us speak Spanish they came to us and told us that they were going to a Frier that liv'd at an Indian Village towards the S. E. end of the Island They told us also that the Harbour of Manila is seldom or never without 20 or 30 Sail of Vessels most Chinese some Portugueze and some few the Spaniards have of their own They said that when they had done their business with the Frier they would return to Manila and hoped to be back again at this place in 4 days time We told them that we came for a Trade with the Spaniards at Manila and should be glad if they would carry a Letter to some Merchant there which they promised to do But this was only a pretence of ours to get out of them what intelligence we could as to their Shipping Strength and the like under colour of seeking a Trade for our business was to pillage Now if we had really designed to have traded here this was as fair an opportunity as Men could have desired for these men could have brought us to the Frier that they were going to and a small Present to him would have engaged him to do any kindness for us in the way of Trade for the Spanish Governors do not allow of it and we must Trade by stealth The 21st day we went from hence with the wind at E. N. E. a small gale The 23d day in the morning we were fair by the S. E. end of the Island Luconia the place that had been so long desired by us We presently saw a Sail coming from the Northward and making after her we took her in 2 hours time She was a Spanish Bark that came from a place called Pangasanam a small Town on the N. end of Luconia as they told us probably the same with Pongassinay which lies on a Bay at the N. W. side of the Island She was bound to Manila but had no Goods aboard and therefore we turned her away The 23d we took another Spanish Vessel that came from the same place as the other She was laden with Rice and Cotton-cloath and bound for Manila also These Goods were purposely for the Acapulco Ship the Rice was for the Men to live on while they lay there and in their return and the Cotton-cloath was to make Sails The Master of this Prize was Boatswain of the Acapulco Ship which escaped us at Guam and was now at Manila It was this Man that gave us the relation of what
a steep bank Therefore we never strive to anchor where we see the Land high and bounding the Sea with steep Cliffs and for this reason when we came in sight of States Island near Terra del Fuego before we entered into the South Seas we did not so much as think of anchoring after we saw what Land it was because of the steep Cliffs which appear'd against the Sea Yet there might be little Harbours or Coves for Shallops or the like to anchor in which we did not see nor search after As high steep Cliffs bounding on the Sea have this ill consequence that they seldom afford anchoring so they have this benefit that we can see them far off and sail close to them without danger for which reason we call them Bold Shores Whereas low Land on the contrary is seen but a little way and in many places we dare not come near it for fear of running aground before we see it Besides there are in many places shoals thrown out by the course of great Rivers that from the low Land fall into the Sea This which I have said that there is usually good anchoring near low Lands may be illustrated by several instances Thus on the South side of the Bay of Campeachy there is mostly low Land and there also is good anchoring all along shore and in some places to the Eastward of the Town of Campeachy we shall have so many fathom as we are leagues off from Land that is from 9 or 10 leagues distance till you come within 4 leagues and from thence to Land it grows but shallower The Bay of Honduras also is low Land and continues mostly so as we past along from thence to the Coasts of Portobel and Cartagena till we came as high as Santa Martha afterwards the Land is low again till you come towards the Coast of Caraccus which is a high Coast and bold shore The Land about Surinam on the same Coast is low and good anchoring and that over on the Coast of Guinea is such also And such too is the Bay of Panama where the Pilot-book orders the Pilot always to sound and not to come within such a depth be it by night or day In the same Seas from the high Land of Guatimala in Mexico to California there is mostly low Land and good anchoring In the Main of Asia the Coast of China the Bays of Siam and Bengal and all the Coast of Coromandel and the Coast about Malacca and against it the Island Sumatra on that side are mostly low anchoring shores But on the West side of Sumatra the shore is high and bold so most of the Islands lying to the Eastward of Sumatra as the Islands Borneo Celebes Gilolo and abundance of Island of less note lying scattering up and down those Seas are low Land and have good anchoring about them with many shoals scattered to and fro among them but the Islands lying against the East Indian Ocean especially the West sides of them are high Land and steep particularly the West parts not only of Sumatra but also of Java Timor c. Particulars are endless but in general 't is seldom but high Shores and deep Waters and on the other side low Land and shallow Seas are found together But to return from this digression to speak of the rest of these Islands Monmouth and Grafton Isles are very hilly with many of those steep inhabited Precipices on them that I shall describe particularly The two small Islands are flat and even only the Bashee Island hath one steep scraggy Hill but Goat-Island is all flat and very even The mold of these Islands in the Valleys is blackish in some places but in most red The Hills are very rocky The Valleys are well watered with Brooks of fresh water which run into the Sea in many different places The Soil is indifferent fruitful especially in the Valleys producing pretty great plenty of Trees tho not very big and thick Grass The sides of the Mountains have also short Grass and some of the Mountains have Mines within them for the Natives told us that the yellow Metal they shew'd us as I shall speak more particularly came from these Mountains for when they held it up they would point towards them The fruit of the Islands are a few Plantains Bonanoes Pine-apples Pumkins Sugar-canes c. and there might be more if the Natives would for the ground seems fertile enough Here are great plenty of Potatoes and Yames which is the common food for the Natives for bread kind for those few Plantains they have are only used as Fruit. They have some Cotton growing here of the small plants Here are plenty of Goats and abundance of Hogs but few Fowls either wild or tame For this I have always observed in my Travels both in the East and West Indies that in those places where there is plenty of Grain that is of Rice in the one and Maiz in the other there are also found great abundance of Fowls but on the contrary few Fowls in those Countries where the Inhabitants feed on Fruits and Roots only The few wild Fowls that are here are Parakites and some other small Birds Their tame Fowl are only a few Cocks and Hens Monmouth and Grafton Islands are very thick inhabited and Bashee Island hath one Town on it The Natives of these Islands are short squat people they are generally round visaged with low Foreheads and thick Eye-brows their Eyes of a hazel colour and small yet bigger than the Chinese short low Noses and their Lips and Mouths middle proportioned Their Teeth are white their Hair is black and thick and lank which they wear but short it will just cover their Ears and so it is cut round very even Their Skins are of a very dark copper colour They wear no Hat Cap nor Turbat nor any thing to keep off the Sun The men for the biggest part have only a small clout to cover their Nakedness some of them have Jackets made of Plantain leaves which were as rough as any Bears skin I never saw such rugged things The Women have a short Petticoat made of Cotton which comes a little below their Knees It is a thick sort of stubborn cloath which they make themselves of their Cotton Both Men and Women do wear large Ear-rings made of that yellow Metal before mention'd Whether it were Gold or no I cannot positively say I took it to be so it was heavy and of the colour of our paler Gold I would fain have brought away some to have satisfied my curiosity but I had nothing wherewith to buy any Captain Read bought 2 of these Rings with some Iron of which the people are very greedy and he would have bought more thinking he was come to a very fair Market but that the paleness of the Metal made him and his Crew distrust its being right Gold For my part I should have ventur'd on the purchase of some but having no property in
side of which are 4 small Islands close by it which are very well stored with Cloves The two chiefest are Ternate and Tidore and as the Isle of Ceylon is reckoned the only place for Cinnamon and that of Banda for Nutmegs so these are thought by some to be the only Clove Islands in the World but this is a great error as I have already shewn At the South end of the Island Celebes there is a Sea or Gulph of about 7 or 8 leagues wide and 40 or 50 long which runs up the Countrey almost directly to the North and this Gulph hath several small Islands along the middle of it On the West side of the Island almost at the South end of it the Town of Macasser is seated A Town of great Strength and Trade belonging to the Dutch There are great Inlets and Lakes on the East side of the Island as also abundance of small Islands and sholes lying scattered about it We saw a high peeked Hill at the N. end but the Land on the East side is low all along for we cruized almost the length of it The mold on this side is black and deep and extraordinary fat and rich and full of Trees and there are many Brooks of Water run out into the Sea Indeed all this East side of the Island seems to be but one large Grove of extraordinary great high Trees Having with much ado got on this East side coasting along to the Southward and yet having but little Wind and even that little against us at S. S. W. and sometimes Calm we were a long time going about the Island The 22d day we were in Lat. 1 d. 20 m. South and being about 3 leagues from the Island standing to the Southward with a very gentle Land wind about 2 or 3 a clock in the morning we heard a clashing in the Water like Boats rowing and fearing some sudden attack we got up all our Arms and stood ready to defend our selves As soon as it was day we saw a great Proe built like the Mindanayan Proe's with about 60 men in her and 6 smaller Proe's They lay still about a mile to Windward of us to view us and probably design'd to make a prey of us when they first came out but they were now afraid to venture on us At last we shewed them Dutch Colours thinking thereby to allure them to come to us for we could not go to them but they presently rowed in toward the Island and went into a large opening and we saw them no more nor did we ever see any other Boats or Men but only one fishing Canoa while we were about this Island neither did we see any House on all the Coast. About 5 or 6 leagues to the South of this place there is a great Range of both large and small Islands and many shoals also that are not laid down in our Drafts which made it extreamly troublesom for us to get through But we past between them all and the Island Celebes and anchored against a sandy Bay in 8 fathom sandy ground about half a mile from the main Island being then in lat 1 d. 50 m. South Here we stayed several days and sent out our Canoas a striking of Turtle every day for here is great plenty of them but they were very shy as they were generally where-ever we found them in the East India Seas I know not the reason of it unless the Natives go very much a striking here for even in the West Indies they are shy in places that are much disturbed and yet on New Holland we found them shy as I shall relate though the Natives there do not molest them On the sholes without us we went and gathered Shell-fish at low water There were a monstrous sort of Cockles the Meat of one of them would suffice 7 or 8 Men. It was very good wholsom Meat We did also beat about in the Woods on the Island but found no game One of our Men who was always troubled with sore Legs found a certain Vine that supported it self by climbing about other Trees The leaves reach'd 6 or 7 feet high but the strings or branches 11 or 12. It had a very green leaf pretty broad and roundish and of a thick substance These leaves pounded small and boiled with Hogs Lard make an excellent Salve Our Men knowing the vertues of it stockt themselves here there was scarce a Man in the Ship but got a pound or two of it especially such as were troubled with old Ulcers who found great benefit by it This Man that discovered these leaves here had his first knowledge of them in the Isthmus of Darien he having had this Receipt from one of the Indians there and he had been ashore in divers places since purposely to seek these leaves but did never find any but here Among the many vast Trees hereabouts there was one exceeded all the rest This Captain Read caused to be cut down in order to make a Canoa having lost our Boats all but one small one in the late Storms so 6 lusty Men who had been Logwood cutters in the Bays of Campeachy and Honduras as Captain Read himself and many more of us had and so were very expert at this work undertook to fell it taking their turns 3 always cutting together and they were one whole day and half the next before they got it down This Tree though it grew in a Wood was yet 18 foot in circumference and 44 foot of clean body without knot or branch and even there it had no more than one or two branches and then ran clean again 10 foot higher there it spread it self into many great limbs and branches like an Oak very green and flourishing yet it was perisht at the heart which marr'd it for the service intended So leaving it and having no more business here we weighed and went from hence the next day it being the 29th day of November While we lay here we had some Tornadoes one or two every day and pretty fresh Land Winds which were at West The Sea breezes were small and uncertain sometimes out of the N. E. and so veering about to the East and South East We had the Wind at North East when we weighed and we steered off S. S. W. In the afternoon we saw a shole a head of us and altered our course to the S. S. E. In the evening at 4 a clock we were close by another great shole therefore we tackt and stood in for the Island Celebes again for fear of running on some of the sholes in the night By day a Man might avoid them well enough for they had all Beacons on them like Huts built on tall Posts above high-water mark probably set up by the Natives of the Island Celebes or those of some other neighbouring Islands and I never saw any such elsewhere In the night we had a violent Tornado out of the S. W. which lasted about an hour The 30th day
detestation on actions which before I disliked but now I trembled at the remembrance of I had long before this repented me of that rovingcourse of life but never with such concern as now I did also call to mind the many miraculous acts of Gods Providence towards me in the whole course of my life of which kind I believe few men have met with the like For all these I returned thanks in a peculiar manner and this once more desired Gods assistance and composed my mind as well as I could in the hopes of it and as the event shew'd I was not disappointed of my hopes Submitting our selves therefore to Gods good providence and taking all the care we could to preserve our lives Mr. Hall and I took turns to steer and the rest took turns to heave out the Water and thus we provided to spend the most doleful night I ever was in About 10 a clock it began to Thunder Lighten and Rain but the Rain was very welcom to us having drank up all the Water we brought from the Island The Wind at first blew harder than before but within half an hour it abated and became more moderate and the Sea also asswaged of its fury and then by a lighted Match of which we kept a piece burning on purpose we looked on our Compass to see how we steered and found our course to be still East We had no occasion to look on the Compass before for we steered right before the Wind which if it had shifted we had been obliged to have altered our couse accordingly But now it being abated we found our Vessel lively enough with that small sail which was then aboard to hale to our former course S. S. E. which accordingly we did being now in hopes again to get to the Island Sumatra But about 2 a clock in the morning of the 19th day we had another gust of Wind with much Thunder Lightening and Rain which lasted till day and obliged us to put before the Wind again steering thus for several hours It was very dark and the hard Rain soaked us so throughly that we had not one dry thread about us The Rain chill'd us extreamly for any fresh water is much colder than that of the Sea For even in the coldest Climates the Sea is warm and in the hottest Climates the Rain is cold and unwholesome for mans body In this wet starveling plight we spent the tedious night Never did poor Mariners on a Lee-shore more earnestly long for the dawning light than we did now At length the day appeared but with such dark black Clouds near the Horizon that the first glimpse of the Dawn appeared 30 or 40 degrees high which was dreadful enough for it is a common saying among Sea-men and true as I have experienced that a high dawn will have high winds and a low dawn small winds We continued our course still East before Wind and Sea till about 8 a clock in the morning of this 19th day and then one of our Malayan friends cryed out Pulo Way Mr. Hall and Ambrose and I thought the fellow had said Pull away an expression usual among English Sea-men when they are Rowing And we wonder'd what he meant by it till we saw him point to his consorts and then we looking that way saw Land appearing like an Island and all our Malayans said it was an Island at the N. W. end of Sumatra called Way for Pulo Way is the Island Way We who were dropping with wet cold and hungry were all overjoyed at the sight of the Land and presently marked its bearing It bore South and the Wind was still at West a strong gale but the Sea did not run so high as in the night Therefore we trimmed our small Sail no bigger than an Apron and steered with it Now our Outlagers did us a great kindness again for although we had but a small sail yet the Wind was strong and prest down our Vessels side very much but being supported by the Outlagers we could brook it well enough which otherwise we could not have done About noon we saw more Land beneath the supposed Pulo Way and steering towards it before night we saw all the Coast of Sumatra and found the errours of our Achinese for the high Land that we first saw which then appeared like an Island was not Pulo Way but a great high Mountain on the Island Sumatra called by the English the Golden Mountain Our Wind continued till about 7 a clock at night then it abated and at 10 a clock it died away and then we stuck to our Oars again though all of us quite tired with our former fatigues and hardships The next morning being the 20th day we saw all the low Land plain and judged our selves not above 8 leagues off About 8 a clock in the morning we had the Wind again at West a fresh gale and steering in still for the Shore at 5 a clock in the afternoon we run to the mouth of a River on the Island Sumatra called Passange Jonca It is 34 leagues to the Eastward of Achin and 6 leagues to the West of Diamond Point which makes with 3 Angles of a Rhombus and is low Land Our Malayans were very well acquainted here and carried us to a small fishing Village within a mile of the Rivers mouth called also by the name of the River Passange Jonca The hardships of this Voyage with the scorching heat of the Sun at our first setting out and the cold Rain and our continuing wet for the last two days cast us all into Fevers so that now we were not able to help each other nor so much as to get our Canoa up to the Village but our Malayans got some of the Townsmen to bring her up The news of our arrival being noised abroad one of the Oramkai's or Noblemen of the Island came in the night to see us We were then lying in a small Hut at the end of the Town and it being late this Lord only viewed us and having spoken with our Malayans went away again but he returned to us again the next day and provided a large house for us to live in till we should be recovered of our sickness ordering the Towns-people to let us want for nothing The Achinese Malayans that came with us told them all the circumstances of our Voyage how they were taken by our Ship and where and how we that came with them were Prisoners aboard the Ship and had been set ashore together at Nicobar as they were It was for this reason probably that the Gentlemen of Sumatra were thus extraordinary kind to us to provide every thing that we had need of nay they would force us to accept of Presents from them that we knew not what to do with as young Buffaloes Goats c. for these we would turn loose at night after the Gentlemen that gave them to us were gone for we were prompted by our Achinese Consorts to
advantage to themselves that after about 4 hours fighting they cut their Cables and went away in haste and disorder with all their Sails loose even their Top-gallant sails which is not usual but when Ships are just next to running away Captain Heath notwithstanding his Ship was so heavy and incumbred behaved himself very bravely in the fight and upon the going off of the French went aboard the Dutch Commadore and told him that if he would pursue them he would stand out with them to Sea though he had very little Water aboard but the Dutch Commander excused himself saying he had orders to defend himself from the French but none to chase them or go out of his way to seek them And this was the exploit which the French have thought fit to brag of I hear that the Dutch have taken from them since their Fort of Ponticheri But to proceed with our Voyage We had not been at Sea long before our men began to droop in a sort of a distemper that stole insensibly on them and proved fatal to above 30 who died before we arrived at the Cape We had sometimes two and once three men thrown over board in a morning This distemper might probably arise from the badness of the Water which we took in at Bencouli for I did observe while I was there that the River-water wherewith our Ships were watered a ws very unwholesom it being mixt with the Water of many small Creeks that proceeded from low Land and whose streams were always very black they being nourished by the Water that drained out of the low swampy unwholesom ground I have observed not only there but in other hot Countries also both in the East and West Indies that the Land-floods which pour into the Channels of the Rivers about the season of the Rains are very unwholesom For when I lived in the Bay of Campeachy the Fish were found dead in heaps on the shores of the Rivers and Creeks at such a season and many we took up half dead of which sudden mortality there appeared no cause but only the malignity of the Waters draining off the Land This happens chiefly as I take it where the water drains through thick Woods and Savannahs of long Grass and swampy Grounds with which some hot Countries abound and I believe it receives a strong Tincture from the Roots of several kind of Trees Herbs c. and especially where there is any stagnancy of the Water it soon corrupts and possibly the Serpents and other poisonous Vermin and Infects may not a little contribure to its bad qualities at such times it will look very deep coloured yellow red or black c. The season of the Rains was over and the Land floods were abating upon the taking up this Water in the River of Bencouli but would the Seamen have given themselves the trouble they might have fill'd their Vessels with excellent good Water at a Spring on the back side of the Fort not above 2 or 300 paces from the Landing place and with which the Fort it serv'd And I mention this as a caution to any Ships that shall go to Bencouli for the future and withal I think it worth the care of the Owners or Governours of the Factory and that it would tend much to the preservation of their Seamens lives to lay Pipes to convey the Fountain Water to the shore which might easily be done with a small charge and had I staid longer there I would have undertaken it I had a design also of bringing it into the Fort though much higher for it would be a great convenience and security to it in case of a Siege Beside the badness of our Water it was stowed among the Pepper in the Hold which made it very hot Every morning when we came to take our allowance it was so hot that a man could hardly suffer his hands in it or hold a bottle full of it in his hand I never any where felt the like nor could have thought it possible that Water should heat to that degree in a Ships Hold. It was exceeding black too and looked more like Ink than Water Whether it grew so black with standing or was tinged with the Pepper I know not for this Water was not so black when it was first taken up Our food also was very bad for the Ship had been out of England upon this Voyage above three years and the salt Provision brought from thence and which we fed on having been so long in salt was but ordinary food for sickly men to live on Captain Heath when he saw the misery of his Company ordered his own Tamarinds of which he had some Jars aboard to be given some to each mess to eat with their Rice This was a great refreshment to the men and I do believe it contributed much to keep us on our legs This distemper was so universal that I do believe there was scarce a man in the Ship but languished under it yet it stole so insensibly on us that we could not say we were sick feeling little or no pain only a weakness and but little stomach Nay most of those that died in this Voyage would hardly be perswaded to keep their Cabbins or Hammacks till they could not stir about and when they were forced to lye down they made their Wills and piked off in 2 or 3 days The loss of these men and the weak languishing condition that the rest of us were in rendered us uncapable to govern our Ship when the wind blew more than ordinary This often happened when we drew near the Cape and as oft put us to our trumps to manage the Ship Captain Heath to incourage his men to their labour kept his watch as constantly as any man tho sickly himself and lent an helping hand on all occasions But at last almost despairing of gaining his passage to the Cape by reason of the Winds coming Southerly and we having now been sailing 8 or 9 weeks he called all our men to consult about our safety and desired every man from the highest to the lowest freely to give his real opinion and advice what to do in this dangerous juncture for we were not in a condition to keep out long and could we not get to Land quickly must have perished at Sea He consulted therefore whether it were best to beat still for the Cape or bear away for Johanna where we might expect relief that being a place where our outward bound East India Ships usually touch and whose Natives are very familiar but other places especially St. Laurence or Madagascar which was nearer was unknown to us We were now so nigh the Cape that with a fair Wind we might expect to be there in 4 or 5 days but as the Wind was now we could not hope to get thither On the other side this Wind was fair to carry us to Johanna but then Johanna was a great way off and if the Wind should continue as
it was to bring us into a true Trade wind yet we could not get thither under a fortnight and if we should meet calms as we might probably expect it might be much longer Besides we should lose our passage about the Cape till October or November this being about the latter end of March for after the 10th of May 't is not usual to beat about the Cape to come home All circumstances therefore being weighed and considered we at last unanimously agreed to prosecute our Voyage towards the Cape and with patience wait for a shift of Wind. But Captain Heath having thus far sounded the inclination of his weak men told them that it was not enough that they all consented to beat for the Cape for our desires were not sufficient to bring us thither but that there would need a more than ordinary labour and management from those that were able And withal for their encouragement he promised a months pay Gratis to every man that would engage to assist on all occasions and be ready upon call whether it were his turn to watch or not and this money he promised to pay at the Cape This offer was first imbraced by some of the Officers and then as many of the men as found themselves in a capacity listed themselves in a Roll to serve theit Commander This was wisely contrived of the Captain for he could not have compell'd them in their weak condition neither would fair words alone without some hopes of a reward have engag d them to so much extraordinary work for the Ship Sail and Rigging were much out of repair For my part I was too weak to enter my self in that list for else our common safety which I plainly saw lay at stake would have prompted me to do more than any such reward would do In a short time after this it pleased God to favour us with a fine Wind which being improved to the best advantage by the incessant labour of these new listed men brought us in a short time to the Cape The night before we entered the Harbour which was about the beginning of April being near the land we fired a Gun every hour to give notice that we were in distress The next day a Dutch Captain came aboard in his Boat who seeing us so weak as not to be able to trim our Sails to turn into the Harbour though we did tollerably well at Sea before the Wind and being requested by our Captain to assist him sent ashore for a hundred lusty men who immediately came aboard and brought our Ship in to an anchor They also unbent our Sails and did every thing for us that they were required to do for which Captain Heath gratified them to the full These men had better stomachs than we and eat freely of such food as the Ship afforded and they having the freedom of our Ship to go to and fro between Decks made prize of what they could lay their hands on especially salt Beef which our men for want of stomachs in the Voyage had hung up 6 8 or 10 pieces in a place This was conveyed away before we knew it or thought of it besides in the night there was a Bale of Muzlins broke open and a great deal conveyed away but whether the Muslins were stoln by our own men or the Dutch I cannot say for we had some very dexterous Thieves in our Ship Being thus got safe to an anchor the sick were presently sent ashore to quarters provided for them and those that were able remained aboard and had good fat Mutton or fresh Beef sent aboard every day I went ashore also with my painted Prince where I remained with him till the time of sailing again which was about 6 weeks In which time I took the opportunity to inform my self of what I could concerning this Country which I shall in this next place give you a brief account of and so make what haste I can home The Cape of Good Hope is the utmost bounds of the continent of Africa towards the South lying in 34 d. 30 m S. lat in a very temperate Climate I look upon this latitude to be one of the mildest and sweetest for its temperature of any whatsoever and I cannot here but take notice of a common prejudice our European Seamen have as to this Country that they look upon it as much colder than places in the same lat to the North of the the Line I am not of their opinion as to that and their thinking so I believe may easily be accounted for from hence that whatever way they come to the Cape whether going to the East Indies or returning back they pass thro a hot Climate and coming to it thus out of an extremity of heat 't is no wonder if it appear the colder to them Some impute the coldness of the South Wind here to its blowing off from Sea On the contrary I. have always observ d the Sea Winds to be warmer than Land Winds unless it be when a bloom we call it or hot b'ast blow from thence Such an one we felt in this very Voyage as we went from Cape Verd Islands towards the South Seas which I forgot to mention in its proper place Chap. 4th For one afternoon about the 19th of Jan. 1683 in the lat of 37 South we felt a brisk gale coming from off the Coast of America but so violently hot that we thought it came from some burning Mountain on the shore and was like the heat from the mouth of an Oven Just such another gleam I felt one afternoon also as I lay at anchor at the Groin in July 1694. it came with a Southerly Wind both these were followed by a Thunder-shower These were the only great blooms I ever met with in my Travels But setting these aside which are exceptions I have made it my general observation that the Sea Winds are a great deal warmer than those which blow from Land unless where the Wind blows from the Poles which I take to be the true cause of the coldness of the South Wind at the Cape for it is cold at Sea also And as for the coldness of Land-Winds as the south-South-West parts of Europe are very sensible of it from the Northern and Eastern Winds so on the opposite Coast of Virginia they are as much pinch d with the North-West Winds blowing excessively cold from over the Continent though its lat be not much greater than this of the Cape But to proceeed This large Promontory consists of high and very remarkable Land and off at Sea it affords a very pleasant and agreeable prospect And without doubt the prospect of it was very agreeable to those Portuguese who first found out this way by Sea to the East-Indies when after coasting along the vast Continent of Africk towards the South Pole they had the comfort of seeing the Land and their course end in this promontory which therefore they called the Cape de Bon
Esperance or of Good Hope finding that they might now proceed Eastward There is good Sounding off this Cape 50 or 60 leagues at Sea to the Southward and therefore our English Seamen standing over as they usually do from the Coast of Brazil content themselves with their Soundings concluding thereby that they are abrest of the Cape they often pass by without seeing it and begin to shape their course Northward They have several other signs whereby to know when they are near it as by the Sea-Fowl they meet at Sea especially the Algatrosses a very large long-winged Bird and the Mangovolucres a smaller Fowl But the greatest dependance of our English Seamen now is upon their observing the variation of the Compass which is very carefully minded when they come near the Cape by taking the Suns Amplitude mornings and evening This they are so exact in that by the help of the Azimuth Compass an Instrument more peculiar to the Seamen of our Nations they know when they are abrest of the Cape or are either to the East or the West of it and for that reason though they should be to Southward of all the Soundings or fathomable ground they can shape their course right without being obliged to make the Land But the Dutch on the contrary having settled themselves on this Promontory do always touch here in their East India Voyages both going and coming The most remarkable Land at Sea is a high Mountain steep to the Sea with a flat even top which is called the Table Land On the West side of the Cape a little to the Northward of it there is a spacious Harbour with a low flat Island lying off it which you may leave on either hand and pass in or out securely at either end Ships that anchor here ride near the Main Land leaving the Island at a farther distance without them The Land by the Sea against the Harbour is low but backt with high Mountains a little way in to the Southward of it The Soil of this Country is of a brown colour not deep yet indifferently productive of Grass Herbs and Trees The Grass is short like that which grows on our Wiltshire or Dorsetshire Downs The Trees hereabouts are but small and few the Country also farther from the Sea does not much abound in Trees as I have been informed The Mould or Soyl also is much like this near the Harbour which though it cannot be said to be very fat or rich Land yet it is very fit for cultivation and yields good Crops to the industrious Husbandman and the Country is pretty well settled with Farms Dutch Families and French Refugees for 20 or 30 leagues up the Country but there are but few Farms near the Harbour Here grows plenty of Wheat Barly Pease c. Here are also Fruits of many kinds as Apples Pears Quinces and the largest Pomgranats that I did ever see The chief Fruits are Grapes These thrive very well and the Country is of late years so well stockt with Vineyards that they make abundance of Wine of which they have enough and to spare and do sell great quantities to Ships that touch here This Wine is like a French High Country White Wine but of a pale yellowish colour it is sweet very pleasant and strong The tame Animals of this Country are Sheep Goats Hogs Cows Horses c. The Sheep are very large and fat for they thrive very well here This being a dry Country and the short pasturage very agreeable to these Creatures but it is not so proper for great Cattle neither is the Beef in its kind so sweet as the Mutton Of wild Beasts 't is said here are several sorts but I saw none However it is very likely there are some wild Beasts that prey on the Sheep because they are commonly brought into the Houses in the night and penn'd up There is a very beautiful sort of wild Al 's in this Country whose body is curiously striped with equal lists of white and black the stripes coming from the ridge of his Back and ending under the Belly which is white These stripes are two or three Fingers broad running parallel with each other and curiously intermixt one white and one black over from the Shoulder to the Rump I saw two of the Skins of these Beasts dried and preserved to be sent to Halland as a rarity They seemed big enough to inclose the Body of a Beast as big as a large Colt of a twelvemonth old Here are a great many Ducks Dunghil Fowls c. and Ostriges are plentifully found in the dry Mountains and Plains I eat of their Eggs here and those of whom I bought them told me that these creatures lay their Eggs in the Sand or at least on dry ground and so leave them to be hatch'd by the Sun The meat of one of their Eggs will suffice two men very well The Inhabitants do preserve the Eggs that they find to sell to strangers They were pretty scarce when I was here it being the beginning of their Winter whereas I was told they lay their Eggs about Christmas which is their Summer The Sea hereabouts affords plenty of Fish of divers sorts especially a small sort of Fish not so big as a Herring whereof they have such great plenty that they pickle great quantities yearly and send them to Europe Seales are also in great numbers about the Cape which as I have still observed is a good sign of the plentifulness of Fish which is their food The Dutch have a strong Fort by the Sea side against the Harbour where the Governour lives At about 2 or 300 paces distance from thence on the West side of the Fort there is a small Dutch Town in which I told about 50 or 60 Houses low but well built with Stone-walls there being plenty of Stone drawn out of a Quarry close by On the backside of the Town as you go towards the Mountains the Dutch East-India Company have a large House and a stately Garden walled in with a high Stone Wall This Garden is full of divers sorts of Herbs Flowers Roots and Fruits with curious spacious Gravel-walks and Arbors and is watered with a Brook that descends out of the Mountains which being cut into many channels is conveyed into all parts of the Garden The Hedges which make the Walks are very thick and 9 or 10 foot high They are kept exceeding neat and even by continual pruning There are lower Hedges within these again which serve to separate the Fruit-trees from each other but without shading them and they keep each sort of Fruit by themselves as Apples Pears abundance of Quinces Pomgranats c. These all prosper very well and bear good Fruit especially the Pomgranat The Roots and Garden-herbs have also their distinct places hedged in apart by themselves and all in such order that it is exceeding pleasant and beautiful There are a great number of Negro Slaves brought from other parts of the
three Captains and some others among whom I got leave to go also Captain Weldon had recommended me to the chief of the Factory while he was aboard us and my going up now to the City was in order to have his assistance in the Voyage to Cochinchina Champa or Cambodia which Captain Weldon had contrived for me nor was it his fault that it came to nothing We went from our Ships in the Country Boats we had hired with the tide of flood and anchored in the ebb for the tide runs strong for 30 or 40 miles beyond the place where we left our Ships Our men contented themselves with looking after their goods the Tonquinese being very light finger'd and left the management of the Boats entirely to the Boats crew Their Boats have but one Mast and when the wind is against them they take it down and ply their Oars As we advanced thus up the River sometimes rowing sometimes sailing we had a delightful prospect over a large level fruitful Country It was generally either Pasture or Rice-fields and void of Trees except only about the Villages which stood thick and appeared mighty pleasant at a distance There are many of these Villages stand close to the banks of the Rivers incompassed with Trees on the back side only but open to the River When we came near any of these Villages we were commonly encountered with Beggars who came off to us in little Boats made of twigs and plaistered over both inside and outside with Clay but very leaky These were a poor Leprous people who for that reason are compell'd by the rest to live by themselves and are permitted to beg publickly As soon as they spied us they set up a loud doleful cry and as we past by them we threw them out some Rice which they received with great appearance of joy In about 4 days time we get to Hean a Town on the East side of the River which is here entire for a little before we came to Hean we met the main stream where it parts into the Channels that of Domea which we came up and the other of Rokbo making so a large and triangular Island between them and the Sea the mouths of those Channels being as I have said 20 leagues asunder Hean is about 60 miles from the place where we left our Ships and about 80 from the Sea that way but along the River or Channel Rokbo where the Land trends more to the Southward it seems to be farther distant from the Sea 'T is a considerable Town of about 2000 Houses but the Inhabitants are most poor people and Souldiers who keep a Garrison there tho it has neither Walls Fort nor great Guns Here is one street belonging to the Chinese Merchants For some years ago a great many lived at Cachao till they grew so numerous that the Natives themselves were even swallowed up by them The King taking notice of it ordered them to remove from thence allowing them to live any where but in the City But the major part of them presently forsook the Country as not finding it convenient for them to live any where but at Cachao because that is the only place of Trade in the Country and Trade is the Life of a Chinese However some of them were content to settle at Hean where they have remained ever since And these Merchants notwithstanding the prohibition go often to Cachao to buy and sell goods but are not suffer'd to make it their constant residence There were two of these China Merchants who traded yearly to Japan with raw and wrought Silks bringing back Money chiefly These all of them wore long Hair braided behind as their own Country fashion was before the Tartarian Conquest The French too have their Factory here not being allowed to fix at Cachao and their Bishops Palace is the fairest building in Hean but of this I shall have occasion to speak more hereafter The Governor of the adjacent Province lives here He is one of the principal Mandarins of the Nation and he has always a great many Souldiers in the Town and inferiour Officers whom he employs at his pleasure on any occasion Besides here are also some of the Kings River Frigots which I shall hereafter describe ready to be sent on any expedition and tho no Europeans come up so far as this with their Ships that I could learn yet the Siamites and Chinese bring their Ships up the River Rokbo quite to Hean and lie at anchor before it and we found there several Chinese Jonks They ride afloat in the middle of the River for the water does not rise and fall much at this place Neither is the flood discerned by the turning of the stream for that always runs down tho not so swift near full Sea as at other times for the tide pressing against the stream tho faintly so far up the River has not power to turn it but only slackens its course and makes the water rise a little The Governor or his Deputy gives his Chop or Pass to all Vessels that go up or down not so much as a Boat being suffered to proceed without it For which reason we also made a stop yet we stayed here but a little while and therefore I did not now go ashore but had a while after this a better opportunity of seeing Hean From Hean we went up to Cachao in our Boats being about 2 days more on our Voyage for we had no tide to help us We landed at the English Factory and I stayed there 7 or 8 days before I went down to our Ships again in one of the Country Boats We had good weather coming up but it rain'd all the time of this my first stay at Cachao and we had much wet weather after this But having got thus far I shall now proceed to give some general account of this Country from my own observations and the experience of Merchants and others worthy of credit who have had their Residence there and some of them a great may years CHAP. II. Tonquin its Situation Soil Waters and Provinces It s natural Produce Roots Herbs Fruits and Trees The Cam-chain and Cam-quit Oranges Their Limes c. Their Betle and Lichea Fruit. The Pone tree Lack trees Mulberry trees and Rice Their land Animals Fowl tame and wild Nets for wild Ducks Locusts Fish Balachaun Nuke mum Pickle Soy and manner of Fishing The Market Provisions Food and Cookery Their Chau or Tea The Temperature of their Air and Weather throughout the Year Of the great Heats near the Tropicks Of the yearly Land Floods here and elsewhere in the Torrid Zone and of the overflowing of the Nile in Egypt Of Storms called Tuffoons and of the influence the Rains have on the Harvest at Tonquin and elsewhere in the Torrid Zone THE Kingdom of Tonquin is bounded to the North and North East with China to the West with the Kingdom of Laos to the S and E. with Cochinchina and the Sea
which washes a part of this Kingdom As to the particular bounds or extent of it I cannot be a competent judge coming to it by Sea and going up directly to Cachao but it is reasonable to believe it to be a pretty large Kingdom by the many great Provinces which are said to be contained in it That part of the Kingdom that borders on the Sea is all very low Land neither is there any Hill to be seen but the Elephant Mountain and a Ridge of a much less heighth continued from thence to the mouth of the River of Domea The Land for about 60 miles up in the Country is still very low even and plain nor is it much higher for about 40 miles farther quite to Cachao and beyond it being without any sensible Hill tho generally of a tolerable good heighth and with some gentle risings here and there that make it a fine pleasant Champian and the further side of this also is more level than the Champian Country it self about Hean or Cachao Farther still to the North beyond all this I have been inform'd that there is a chain of high Mountains running cross the Country from East to West but I could get no intimation of what is beyond them The Soil of this Country is generally very rich That very low Land I speak of towards the Sea is most black Earth and the mould pretty deep In some places there 's very strong Clay The Champian Land is generally yellowish or greyish earth of a looser and more friable substance then the former yet in some places it has a touch of the Clay too In the plain Country near the Mountains last mentioned there are said to be some high steep rocks of Marble scattered up and down at unequal distances which standing in that large plain Savannah appear like so many great Towers or Castles and they are the more visible because the Land about them is not burdened with Wood as in some places in its neighbourhood I have said somewhat already of the great River and its 2 branches Rokbo and Domea wherewith this Country is chiefly water'd tho it is not distitute of many other pleasant streams that are lost in these in their course towards the Sea and probably there are many others that run immediately into the Sea through their own channels tho not so navigable as the other The Country in general is very well watered and by means of the great Navigable River and its Branches it has the opportunity of Foreign Trade This rises about the Mountains in the North or from beyond them whence running Southerly toward the Sea it passes thro the before-mention'd plain of Marble Rocks and by that time it comes to Cachao which is about 40 or 50 miles to the South of the Mountains 't is about as broad as the Thames at Lambeth vet so shallow in the dry Season as that it may be forded on Horseback At Hean 20 miles lower us rather broader than the Thames at Gravesend and so below Hean to the place where it divides it self The Kingdom of Tonquin is said to be divided into 8 large Provinces viz. the East and West Provinces the North and South Provinces and the Province of Cachao in the middle between those 4 which 5 I take to be the principal Provinces making the heart of the Country The other 3 which are Tenan Tenehoa and Ngeam lie more upon the Borders The Province of Tenan is the most Easterly having China on the S. E. the Island Aynam and the Sea on the S. and S. W. and the East Province on the N. W. This is but a small Province its chiefest product is Rice The East Province stretches away from Tenan to the North Province having also China on its East side part of the South Province and the Province of Cachao on the West and the Sea on the South This is a very large Province 't is chiefly low Land and much of it Islands especially the S. E. part of it bordering on the Sea towards Tenan and here the Sea makes the Cod of a Bay It has abundance of Fishermen inhabiting near the Sea but its chief produce is Rice here is also good pasturage and much Cattle c. Hean is the chief place of this Pro vince and the Seat of the Mandarin its Governor The S. Province is the triangular Island made by Sea the River of Domea is on it's E. side dividing it from the East Province and Rokbo on the West dividing it from Tenan having the Sea to its South This Province is very low plain even Land producing Rice in great abundance here are large pastures and abundance of Fishermen near the Sea Tenehoa to the West of Rokbo has the West Province on its North Aynam on its West and the Sea on its South this Province is also low Land chiefly abounds in Rice and Cattle and hath a great Trade in Fishing as all the Sea Coast has in general The Province of Ngeam hath Tenehoa on the East and on the South and West it borders on Cochinchina and has the West Province on its North. This is a pretty large Province abounding with Rice and Cattle and here are always Soldiers kept to guard the Frontiers from the Cochinchineses The West Provinces hath Ngeam on the South the Kingdom of Laos on the West the Province of Cachao on the East and on the North the North Province This is a large Province and good Champion Land rich in Soyl partly woody partly pasture The product of this Province is chiefly in Lack and here are bred a great abundance of Silk worms for making Silk The North Province is a large tract of Land making the North side of this whole Kingdom It hath the Kingdom of Laos on the West and China on the East and North the Kingdom of Bao Oi Baotan on the North West and on the South it ders on 3 of the principal Provinces of Tonquin viz. the West Province that of Cachao and the East Province This North Province as it is large so it has variety of Land and Soyl a great deal of plain Champion Land and many high Mountains which yield Gold c. the wild Elephants of this Country are found most on these Mountains The other parts of this Province produce Lack and Silk c. The Province of Cachao in the heart of the Kingdom lies between the East West North and South Provinces 't is a Champion pleasant Country the Soil is yellow or grey earth and 't is pretty woody with some Savannahs It abounds with the two principal Commodities of their Trade viz. Lack and Silk and has some Rice Nor are any of the Provinces destitute of these Commodities tho in different proportions each according to the respective Soil This Country has of its own growth all necessaries for the Life os Man They have little occasion for eatable Roots having such plenty of Rice yet they have Yams and Potatoes for variety
are Markets duly kept all over Tonquin one in a week in a neighbourhood of 4 or 5 Villages and held at each of them successively in its order so that the same Village has not the Market return'd to it till 4 or 5 weeks after These Markets are abundantly more stor'd with Rice as being their chief subsistence especially of the poorer sort than either with Flesh or Fish yet wants there not for Pork and young Pigs good store Ducks and Hens plenty of Eggs Fish great and small fresh and salted Balachaun and Nuke-Mum with all sorts of Roots Herbs and Fruits even in these Country Markets But at Cachao where there are markets kept every day they have besides these Beef of Bullocks Buffaloes Flesh Goats Flesh Horse Flesh Cats and Dogs as I have been told and Locusts They dress their food very cleanly and make it savory for which they have several ways unknown in Europe but they have many sorts of dishes that wou'd turn the Stomach of a stranger which yet they themselves like very well as particularly a dish of raw Pork which is very cheap and common This is only Pork cut and minced very small fat and lean together which being afterwards made up in balls on rolls like Sausages and prest very hard together is then neatly wrapt up in clean leaves and without more ado served up to the Table Raw Beef is another dish much esteemed at Cachao When they kill a Bullock they singe the hair off with Fire as we singe Bacon Hogs in England Then they open it and while the Flesh is yet hot they cut good Collops from off the lean parts and put them into very tart Vinegar where it remains 3 or 4 hours or longer till it is sufficiently soaked and then without more trouble they take it out and eat it with great delight As for Horseflesh I know not whether they kill any purposely for the Shambles or whether they only do it when they are not likely to live as I have seen them do their working Bullocks at Galicia in Old Spain where the Cattel falling down with labour and being so poor and tired that they cannot rise they are slaughtered and sent to market and I think I never eat worse Beef than at the Groin The Horseflesh comes to Market at Cachao very frequently and is as much esteemed as Beef Elephants they eat also and the Trunk of this Beast is an acceptable present for a Nobleman and that too tho the beast dyes with Age or Sickness For here are but few wild Elephants and those so shy that they are not easily taken But the King having a great number of tame Elephants when one of these dyes 't is given to the poor who presently fetch away the Flesh but the Trunk is cut in pieces and presented to the Mandarins Dogs and Cats are killed purposely for the Shambles and their Flesh is much esteemed by people of the best fashion as I have been credibly informed Great yellow Frogs also are much admired especially when they come fresh out of the Pond They have many other such choice dishes and in all the Villages at any time of the day and be it market day or not there are several to be sold by poor people who make it their Trade The most common sorts of Cookeries next to boil'd Rice is to dress little bits of Pork spitted 5 or 6 of them at once on a small skiver and roasted In the Markets also and daily in every Village there are Women sitting in the Streets with a Pipkin over a small Fire full of Chau as they call it a sort of very ordinary Tea of a reddish brown colour and 't is their ordinary drink The Kingdom of Tonquin is in general healthy enough especially in the dry season when also it is very delightsom For the seasons of the year at Tonquin and all the Countries between the Tropicks are distinguished into Wet and Dry as properly as others are into Winter and Summer But as the alteration from Winter to Summer and vice versa is not made of a sudden but with the interchangeable Weather of Spring and Autumn so also toward the end of the dry season there are some gentle showers now and then that precede the violent wet months and again toward the end of these several fair days that introduce the dry time These seasons are generally much alike at the same time of the year in all places of the Torrid Zone on the same side of the Equator but for 2 or 3 degrees on each side of it the weather is more mixt and uncertain tho inclining to the wet extreme and is often contrary to that which is then settled on the same side of the Equator more toward the Tropick So that even when the wet Season is set in in the Northern parts of the Torrid Zone it may yet be dry weather for 2 or 3. degrees North of the Line and the same may be said of the contrary Latitudes and Seasons This I speak with respect to the driness or moisture of Countries in the Torrid Zone but it may also hold good of their Heat or Cold generally for as to all these qualities there is a further difference arises from the make or situation of the Land or other accidental causes besides what depends on the respective latitude or regard to the Sun Thus the Bay of Compeachy in the West Indies and that of Bengal in the East in much the same latitude are exceeding hot and moist and whether their situation being very low Countries and the scarcity and faintness of the Sea-breezes as in most Bays may not contribute hereunto I leave others to judge Yet even as to the Latitudes of these places lying near the Tropicks they are generally upon that account alone more inclined to great Heats than places near the Equator This is what I have experienc'd in many places in such Latitudes both in the East and West Indies that the hottest parts of the World are these near the Tropicks especially 3 or 4 Degrees within them sensibly hotter than under the Line itself Many reasons may be assign'd for this beside the accidental ones from the make of the particular Countries Tropical Winds or the like For the longest day at the Equator never exceeds 12 hours and the night is always of the same length But near the Tropicks the longest day is about 13 hours and an half and an hour and an half being also taken from the night what with the length of the day and the shortness of the night there is a difference of three hours which is very cousiderable Besides which at such places as are about 3 degrees within the Tropicks or in the Lat. of 20 Deg. N. the Sun comes within 2 or 3 degrees of the Zenith in the beginning of May and having past the Zenith goes not above 2 or 3 degrees beyond it before it returns and passeth the Zenith once more and by
he had all the ingredients and an engine to mix them I was easily perswaded to try my skill which I had never yet tried not knowing what I might be put to before I got to England and having drank a glass or two of Wine with him I went to work and it succeeded so well that I pleased him extremely and satisfied my own desire of trying the Receipt and the Reader shall have the History of the Operation if he pleases He brought me Sulphur and Salt-Petre and I weighed a portion of each of these and of Coals I gathered up in the hearth and beat to powder While his man mixed these in a little Engine I made a small Sieve of Parchment which I pricked full of holes with a small Iron made hot and this was to corn it I had 2 large Arek Nuts to roul in the Sieve and work it thro the holes to corn it When it was dry we proved it and it answered our expectation The receipt I had out of Captain Sturiney s Magazin of Arts. The being so successful in this put me afterwards on the reâ—…ewing of Powder at Bencouli when I was there Gunner of that Fort. There being then about 30 Barrels damnified which was like mud they took it out of the Cask and put it into earthen Jars that held about 8 Barrels a piece These they call Mortaban Jars from a Town of that name in Pegu whence they are brought and carried all over India In these 't was intended to send the Powder to Fort St. George to be renewed there But I desired the Governour to let me first try my skill on it because we had but little Powder in the Fort and might have wanted before any returns could be expected from thence The Salt-petre was sunk to the bottom of the Jars but I mixt it and beat it altogether and corned it with Sieves which I made of my own old Parchment draughts I made thus 8 Barrels full of very good Powder before I went from thence The French Priest told me in conclusion that the Grandees made all their own Powder and since I have been informed that the Soldiers make Powder as I have already said I spent the remainder of the day in the Palace with the Priest He told me that the Bishop was well otherwise I should haveseen him and that because it was a Fish day I could not expect such entertainment as I might have had on another day yet he ordered a Fowl to be broyled for my dinner and I dined by my self In the evening he sent me out of the Palace desiring to be excused that he could not entertain me all night yet ordered his man to lodge me in a Tonquinese Christian House not far from thence The people were civil but very poor and my Lodging such as I had met with on the Road. I have since been told that the new Christans come to do their devotion in the Pallace at night and for that reason probably I was so soon dismist I was now again pretty well refreshed and might have gone to Cachao City a foot but fearing my strength I chose to go by water Therefore I sent back my Guide yet before he departed back to our Ships he bargained with a Tonquinese Waterman for my passage to Cachao The Tide not serving presently to imbark I walked about the Town and spent the day in viewing it in the evening I embarked and they choose an evening for coolness rowing all night The Boat was about the bigness of a Gravesend Wherry and was used purposely to carry passengers having a small covering over-head to keep them dry when it rained There were 4 or 5 more of these Boats that went up this Tide full of Passengers In our Boat were about 20 Men and Women besides 4 or 6 that rowed us The Women chose their places and sate by themselves and they had much respect shewed them but the men stowed close together without shewing any respect more to one than to another yet all very civil I thrust in among the thickest of them at first but my Flux would not suffer me to rest long in a place About midnight we were set ashore to refresh our selves at a Baiting place where there were a few Houses close by the Rivers side and the people up with Candles lighted Arack and Tea and little Spits of Meat and other Provisions ready drest to receive us For these were all Houses of entertainment and probably got their living by entertaining passengers We stayed here about an hour and then entred again on our Boat and rowed forwards The passengers spent the time in merry discourse or Singing after their way tho to us it seems like crying but I was mute for want of person I could converse with About 8 or 9 a Clock the next day I was set ashore the rest of the passengers remained in the Boat but whither they were bound I know not nor whether the Boat went quite up to Cachao I was now 5 or 6 mile short of the City but in a good path for the Land here was pretty high level and Sandy and the Road plain and dry and I reached Cachao by Noon I presently went to one Mr. Bowyers House who was a free Merchant with whom Captain Weldon lodged and staid with them a few days but so weak with my Flux which daily encreased that I was scarce able to go about and so was forced to learn by others a great measure several particulars relating to this place This my weakness joyned with my disappointment for I found that I was not like to be imployed in any Voyage to the Neighbouring Countries as it had been proposed to me made me very desirous of returning back again as soon as might be and it happened opportunely that Captain Weldon had by this time done his business and was preparing for his departure I went therefore down the River again to our Ships in a Vessel our Merchants had hired to carry their Goods aboard from Cachao Among other freight there were 2 Bells of about 500 weight each which had been cast at Cachao by the Tonquinese for my Lord Falcon the King of Siam's chief Minister of State and for the use of some of the Christian Churches in Siam The person who bespoke them and was to carry them was Captain Brewster who had not very long before come from Siam in a Ship of that Kings and had been cast away on the Coast of Tonquin but had saved most of his Goods With these he traded at Cachao and among other goods he had purchased to return with to Siam were these 2 Bells all which he sent down to be put on board Captain Weldon's Ship But the Bark was no sooner come to Hean in going down the River but the Governor of Heans Officers come on board the Bark and seized the 2 Bells in behalf of the chief of the English Factory who understanding they were designed for the King
whom I came acquainted with some time after this at Fort St. George and I had of him the following account the particulars of which I have also had confirmed by the Seamen who were with them These two Captains with many more English men had been for some time in the service of the King of Siam and each of them commanded a stout Frigot of his mann'd chiefly with English and some Portuguese born at Siam These the King of Siam sent against some Pyrates who made spoyl of his Subjects Trading in these Seas and nested themselves in an Island up the River of Cambodia Captain Howel told me that they found this River very large especially at its mouth that 't is deep and navigable for very great Vessels 60 or 70 Leagues up and that its depth and wideness extended much further up for ought he knew but so far they went up at this time with their Ships The Course of the River is generally from North to South and they found the Land low on each side with many large creeks and branches and in some places considerable Islands They bended their Course up that branch which seem'd most considerable having the Tyde of flood with them and the River commonly so wide as to give them room to turn or make Angles where the bending of the River was such as to receive a contrary East or South East Sea Wind. These reaches or bendings of the River East and West were very rare at least so as to make their Course be against the Sea wind which commonly blew in their Stern and fo fresh that with it they could stem the Tyde of Ebb. But in the night when the Land winds came they anchored and lay still till about 10 or 11 a Clock the next day at which time the Sea-breeze usually sprang up again and enabled them to continue their Course till they came to the Island where the Pirats inhabited They presently began to fire at them and landing their men routed them and burned their Houses and Fortifications and taking many prisoners returned again These Piratical People were by Nation Chinese who when the Tartars conquered their Country fled from thence in their own Ships as choosing rather to live any where free than to submit to the Tartars These it seems in their flight bent their Course towards this Country and finding the River of Cambodia open before them they made bold to enter and settle on the Island before mentioned There they built a Town and fenced it round about with a kind of Wood-pile or Wall of great Timber Trees laid along of the thickness of 3 or 4 of these Trees and of about as many in heighth They were provided with all sorts of Planters instruments and the Land hereabouts was excellent good as our English men told me so that 't is like they might have lived here happily enough had their inclinations led them to a quiet Life but they brought Arms along with them and chose to use them rather than their Instruments of Husbandry and they lived therefore mostly by rapin pillaging their Neighbours who were more addicted to traffick than fighting But the King of Siams Subjects having been long harrassed by them at Sea he first sent some Forces by Land to drive them out of their Fort till not succeeding that way he entirely Routed them by sending these 2 Ships up the River The 2 English Captains having thus effected their business returned out of the River with many Prisoners but the South West Monsoon being already set in they could not presently return to Siam and therefore went to Macao in China as well to wait for the N. East Monsoon as to ingratiate themselves with the Tartars who they thought would be pleased with the Conquest which they had made over these Chinese Pyrates They were well entertained there by the Tartarian Governor and gave him their Prisoners and upon the shifting of the Monsoon they returned to Siam There they were received with great applause Nor was this the first successful expedition the English have made in the K. of Siams service They once saved the Country by suppressing an insurrection made by the Buggasses The Buggasses are a sort of warlike Trading Malayans and mercenary Soldiers of India I know not well whence they come unless from Macasser in the Island Celebes Many of them had been entertained at Siam in the Kings service but at last being disgusted at some ill usuage they stood up in their own defence Some hundreds of them got together all well armed and these struck a dread into the hearts of the Siamites none of whom were able to stand before them till Constant Falcon the chief Minister Commanded the English that were then in the Kings service to march against them which they did with success tho with some considerable loss For these services the King gave every year to each of them a great Silk Coat on which were just 13 Buttons Those of the chief Commanders were of Massy Gold and those of the inferiour Officers were of Silver Plate This Expedition against the Chinese Pirats was about the year 1687 the other broyl with the Buggasses was as I take it some time before But to proceed with our Voyage we still kept our way Southward and in company together till we came about Pulo Condore but then Captain Pool parted from us standing more directly South for the Streights of Sundy and we steer'd more to the Westward to go thro the Streights of Malacca thro which we came before Captain Brewster and another of our Passengers began now to be in fear that the King of Siam would send Ships to lye at the Mouth of the Streights of Malacca and intercept our passage because there was a War broke out between the English East India Company and that Prince This seemed the more likely because the French at this time were imployed in that Kings service by the means of a French Bishop and other Ecclesiasticks who were striving to convert the King and people to Christianity thro the Interest they had got in Constant Falcon. Particularly they were afraid that the King of Siam would send the 2 Ships before mentioned which Captain Williams and Capt Howel had commanded a little before to lye at the west end of the Streights mouth but probably mann'd with French Men and French Commanders to take us Now tho this made but little impression on the minds of our Commanders and Officers yet it so happened that we had such thick dark weather when we came near the first Entrance of the Streights of Malacca which was that we came by and by which we meant to return that we thought it not safe to stand in at night and so lay by till morning The next day we saw a Jonk to the Southward and chased her and having spoke with her we made sail and stood to the Westward to pass the Streights and making the Land we found we were to the
not altogether destitute of small Hills and every where of a moderate heighth and a Champion Country naturally very fit for Cultivation There is one Hill more remarkable than ordinary especially to Seamen The English call it the Golden Mount but whether this name is given it by the Natives or only by the English I know not 'T is near the N. W. end of the Island and Achin stands but 5 or 6 mile from the bottom of it 'T is very large at the foot and runs up smaller towards the head which is raised so high as to be seen at Sea 30 or 40 leagues This was the first Land that we saw coming in our Proe from the Nicobar Islands mentioned in my former Voyage The rest of the Land tho of a good heighth was then undiscerned by us so that this Mountain appeared like an Island in the Sea which was the Reason why our Achin Malayans took it for Pulo Way But that Island tho pretty high Champion Land was invisible when this Golden Mount appeared so plain tho as far distant as that Island Besides what belongs to Achin upon the Continent there are also several Islands under its Jurisdiction most of them uninhabited and these make the Road of Achin Among them is this Pulo Way which is the Easternmost of a Range of Islands that lye off the N. W. end of Sumatra It is also the largest of them and it is inhabited by Malefactors who are banisht thither from Achin This with the other Islands of this Range lye in a semicircular form of about 7 Leagues diameter Pulo Gomez is another large Island about 20 mile West from Pulo Way and about 3 Leagues from the N. W. point of Sumatra Between Pulo Gomez and the Main are 3 or 4 other small Islands yet with Channels of a sufficient breadth between them for Ships to pass through and they have very deep water All Ships bound from Achin to the Westward or coming from thence to Achin go in and out thro one or other of these Channels and because shipping comes hither from the Coast of Surrat one of these Channels which is deeper than the rest is called the Surrat Channel Between Pulo Gomez and Pulo Way in the bending of the Circle there are other small Islands the chief of which is called Pulo Rondo This is a small round high Island not a above 2 or 3 mile in circumference It lyes almost in the extremity of the bending on the N. E. part of the Circle but nearer Pulo Way than Pulo Gomez There are large deep Channels on either side but the most frequented is the Channel on the West side Which is called the Bengal Channel because it looks towards that Bay and Ships coming from thence from the Coast of Coromandel pass in and out this way Between Pulo Way and the Main of Sumatra is another Channel of 3 or 4 Leagues wide which is the Channel for Ships that go from Achin to the Streights of Malacca or any Country to the East of those Streights and vice versa There is good riding in all this Semicircular Bay between the Islands and Sumatra but the Road for all Ships that come to Achin is near the Sumatra Shore within all the Islands There they anchor at what distances they please according to the Monsoons or Seasons of the Year There is a small Navigable River comes out into the Sea by which Ships transport their Commodities in smaller Vessels up to the City The mouth of this River is 6 or 7 Leagues from Pulo Rondo and 3 or 4 from Pulo Way and near as many from Pulo Gomez The Islands are pretty high Champion Land the mould black or yellow the Soyl deep and fat producing large tall Trees fit for any uses There are brooks of water on the 2 great Islands of Way and Gomez and several sorts of wild Animals especially wild Hogs in abundance The Mold of this Continent is different according to the natural position of it The Mountains are Rocky especially those towards the West Coast yet most that I have seen seems to have a superficial covering of Earth naturally producing Shrubs small Trees or pretty good Grass The small Hills are most of them cloathed with Woods the Trees whereof seem by their growth to spring from a fruitful Soyl the Champion Land such as I have seen is some black some grey some reddish and all of a deep mold But to be very particular in these things especially in all my Travels is more than Ican pretend to tho it may be I took as much notice of the difference of Soil as I met with it as most Travellers have done having been bred in my youth in Somersetshire at a place called East Coker near Yeovil or Evil In which Parish there is as great variety of Soil as I have ordinarily met with any where viz. black red yellow sandy stony clay morass or swampy c. I had the more reason to take notice of this because this Village in a great measure is Let out in small Leases for Lives of 20 30 40 or 50 pound per Ann. under Coll. Helliar the Lord of the Mannor and most if not all these Tenants had their own Land scattering in small pieces up and down several sorts of Land in the Parish so that every one had some piece of every sort of Land his Black ground his Sandy Clay c. some of 20 30 or 40 Shillings an Acre for some uses and other not worth 10 groats an Acre My Mother being possest of one of these Leases and having of all these sorts of Land I came acquainted with them all and knew what each sort would produce viz. Wheat Barley Massin Rice Beans Peas Oats Fetches Flax or Hemp in all which I had a more than usual knowledge for one so young taking a particular delight in observing it but enough of this matter The Kingdom of Achin has in general a deep mould It is very well watered with Brooks and small Rivers but none navigable for Ships of burthen This of Achin admits not of any but small Vessels The Land is some part very woody in other places Savannah the Trees are of divers sorts most unknown to me by name The Cotton and Cabbage-trees grow here but not in such plenty as in some part of America These Trees commonly grow here as indeed usually where-ever they grow in a champion dry ground such at least as is not drowned or morassy for here is some such Land as that by the Rivers and there grow Mangrove Trees and other Trees of that kind Neither is this Kingdom destitute of Timber-trees fit for building The Fruits of this Country are Plantains Bonanoes Guava's Oranges Limes Jacks Durians Coco-nuts Pumple noses Pomgranates Mangoes Mangastans Citrons Water melons Musk-melons Pine-apples c. Of all these sorts of Fruits I think the Mangastan is without compare the most delicate This Fruit is in shape much like the Pomgranate but a
numbers seldom less then 1000 and never more then 1500. But to proceed with these Weights which they use either for Money or Goods 100 Catty make a Pecul which is 132 l. English weight Three hundred Catty is a Bahar which is 396 l English weight but in some places as at Bencouli a Bahar is near 500 English weight Spanish pieces of Eight go here also and they are valued according to the plenty or scarcity of them Sometimes a Piece of Eight goes but for 4 Mess sometimes for 4 and half sometimes 5 Mess. They Coin but a small quantity of their Gold so much as may serve for their ordinary occasions in their Traffick one with another But as the Merchant when he receives large Summs always takes it by weight so they usually pay him unwrought Gold and quantity for quantity the Merchants chuse rather to receive this than the coined Gold and before their leaving the Country will change their Messes for uncoined Gold perhaps because of some deceits used by the Natives in their Coining This Gold they have from some Mountain a pretty way within Land from Achin but within their Dominions and rather near to the West Coast than the Streights of Malacca I take Golden Mount which I spoke of before to lie at no great distance from that of the Mines for there is very high Land all thereabouts To go thither they set out Eastward towards Passange Jonca and thence strike up into the heart of the Country I made some inquiry concerning their getting Gold and was told that none but Mahometans were permitted to go to the Mines That it was both troublesom and dangerous to pass the Mountains before they came thither there being but one way and that over such steep Mountains that in some places they were forced to make use of Ropes to climb up and down the Hills That at the foot of these Precipices there was a Guard of Soldiers to see that no uncircumcised person should pursue that design and also to receive custom of those that past either forward or backward That at the Mines it was so sickly that not the half of those that went thither did ever return again tho they went thither only to Traffick with the Miners who live there being seasoned that these who go thither from the City stayed not usually above 4 months at the Mines and were back again in about 6 Months from their going out That some there made it their constant imployment to visit the Miners once every year for after they are once seasoned and have found the profit of that Trade no thoughts of danger can deter them from it for I was credibly told that these made 2000 per cent of whatever they carreid with them to sell to the Miners but they could not carry much by reason of the badness of the ways The rich men never go thither themselves but send their Slaves and if 3 out of 6 returns they think they make a very profitable iourney for their Master for these 3 are able to bring home as much Gold as the Goods which all 6 carried out could purchase The Goods that they carry thither are some sort of cloathing and liquor They carry their Goods from the City by Sea part of the way Then they land somewhere about Passange-Jonca and get Horses to carry their Cargo to the foot of the Mountains There they draw it up with Ropes and if they have much goods one stays there with them while the rest march to the Mines with their load and return again for the rest I had this relation from Captain Tiler who lived at Achin and spoke the Language of the Country very well There was an English Renegado that used that trade but was always at the Mines when I was here At his Return to Achin he constantly frequented an English Punch-house spending his Gold very freely as I was told by the Master of the house I was told also by all that I discoursed with about the Gold that here they dig it out of the Ground and that sometimes they find pretty large lumps It is the product of these Mines that draws so many Merchants hither for the Road is seldom without 10 or 15 sail of Ships of several Nations These bring all sort of vendible Commodities as Silks Chints Muzlins Callicoes Rice c. and as to this last a man would admire to see what great quantities of Rice are brought hither by the English Dutch Danes and Chinese when any arrives the Commanders hire each a House to put their goods in The Silks Muzlins Callicoes Opium and such like rich Goods they sell to the Guzurats who are the chief men that keep Shops here but the Rice which is the bulk of the Cargo they usually retail I have heard a Merchant say he has received 60 70 and 80 l. a day for Rice when it has been scarce but when there are many sellers then 40 or 50 s. worth in a day is a good sale for then a Mess will buy 14 or 15 Bamboes of it whereas when Rice is scarce you will not have above 3 or 4 Bamboes for a Mess. A Bamboe is a small seal'd measure containing to the best of my remembrance not much above half a Gallon Thus it rises and falls as Ships come hither Those who sell Rice keep one constantly attending to measure it out and the very Grandees themselves never keep a stock before hand but depend on the Market and buy just when they have occasion They send their Slaves for what they want and the poorer sort who have not a Slave of their own will yet hire one to carry a Mess worth of Rice for them tho not one hundred paces from their own homes scorning to do it themselves Besides one to measure the Rice the Merchants hire a man to take the money for here is some false Money as Silver and Copper Mess gilt over Besides here are some true Mess much worn and therefore not worth near their value in tale The Merchants may also have occasion to receive 10 or 20 l. at a time for other Commodities and this too besides those little summs for Rice he must receive by his Broker if he will not be cheated for 't is work enough to examin every piece and in receiving the value of 10 l. in Mess they will ordinarily be forc'd to return half or more to be chang'd for the Natives are for putting off bad Money if possibly they can But if the Broker takes any bad Money 't is to his own loss These sort of Brokers are commonly Guzurats and 't is very necessary for a Merchant that comes hither especially if he is a stranger to have one of them for fear of taking bad or light Money The English Merchants are very welcome here and I have heard that they do not pay so much Custom as other Nations The Dutch Free-men may trade hither but the Company 's Servants are deny'd that
to these Moors are obliged to joyn Stock with them and they first make an offer of it to them as a kindness and the Moors being generally desirous to Trade frequently accept of it almost on any terms but should they be unwilling yet dare they not refuse for fear of disobliging the Danes who are Lords of the place In this Ship I found Mr Coppenger and he was the first that I had seen of all the Company that left me at the Nicobar Islands The next morning we filled our water and weigh'd again the Dane being gone a little before He was bound to Jihore to load Pepper but intended to touch at Malacca as most Ships do that pass these Streights He also sailed better than we and therefore left us to follow him We stood on yet nearest to the Sumatra shore till we came in sight of Pulo Arii in Lat 3 d 2 m. N. These are several Islands lying S. E. by E. l Easterly from Pulo Verero about 32 leagues distant These Islands are good marks for Ships bound thro the Streights for when they bear S. E. at 3 or 4 leagues distance you may steer away E. by S. for the Malacca Shore from whence you then may be about 20 leagues The first Land you will see is Pulo Parselore which is a high peeked Hill in the Country on the Malacca Coast which standing by it self amidst a low Country it appears like an Island tho I know not whether it is is really one for it stands some miles within the shoar of the Continent of Malacca It is a very remarkable Hill and the only Sea mark for Seamen to guide themselves through certain Sands that lye near the Main and if it is thick hazy Weather and the hill is obscur'd Pilots unless they are very knowing in the Soundings will hardly venture in for the Channel is not above a league wide and there are large shoals on each side These shoals lye ten leagues from Pulo Arii and continue till within 2 or 3 of the Malacca shoar In the Channel there is 12 or 14 fathom water but you may keep in 7 or 8 fathom on either side and sounding all the way you may pass on without danger We had a good gale at West which brought us in sight of Pulo Parsalore and so we kept sounding till we came within the shoar and then we had the Town of Malacca about 18 leagues distant from us to the S. E. and by E. Being shot over to the Malacca shore there is good wide Channel to sail in you having the shoals on one side and the Land on the other to which last you may come as nigh as you see convenient for there is water enough and good anchoring The Tide runs pretty strong here the Flood sets to the Eastward and the Ebb to the West and therefore when there is little wind and Ships cannot stem the Tide they commonly anchor But we being in with the Malacca shoar had a westerly Wind which brought us before Malacca Town about the middle of October and here I first heard that King William and Queen Mary were Crowned King and Queen of England The Dane that left us at Pulo Verero was not yet arrived for as we afterwards understood they could not find the way through the Sands but were forc'd to keep along without them and fetch a great Compass about which retarded their Passage Malacca is a pretty large Town of about 2 or 300 Families of Dutch and Portuguese many of which are a mixt breed between those Nations There are also many of the Native Malayans inhabiting in small Cottages on the skirts of the Town The Dutch Houses are built with Stone and the Streets are wide and straight but not paved At the N. West of the Town there is a Wall and Gate to pass in and out and a small Fort always guarded with Soldiers The Town stands on a level low ground close by the Sea The Land on the backside of the Town seems to be morassy and on the West side without the Wall there are Gardens of Fruits and Herbs and some fair Dutch Houses but that quarter is chiefly the habitation of the Malayans On the East side of the Town there is a small River which at a Spring Tide will admit small Barks to enter About 100 paces from the Sea there is a Draw bridge which leads from the midst of the Town to a strong Fort built on the East side of the River This is the chief Fort and is built on a low level ground close by the Sea at the foot of a little steep Hill Its form is semicircular according to the natural position of the adjacent Hill It fronts chiefly to the Sea and having its foundation on firm Rocks the Walls are carried up to a good heighth and of a considerable thickness The lower part of is washed by the Sea every Tide On the back of the Hill the Land being naturally low there is a very large Moat cut from the Sea to the River which makes the whole an Island and that back part is stockadoed round with great Trees set up an end so that there is no entring when once the Draw-bridge is haled up On the Hill within the Fort stands a small Church big enough to receive all Towns people who come hither on Sundays to hear Divine service and on the Main beyond the Fort the Malayans are also seated close by the Sea The first Europeans who settled here were the Portuguese They also built the great Fort but whether they moted round the Hill and made an Island of that spot of ground I know not nor what charges have been bestowed on it since to make it defenceable nor what other alterations have been made but the whole building seems to be pretty antient and that part of it which fronts to the Sea was in all probability built by the Portuguese for there are still the marks of the Conquerors shot in the Walls It is a place so naturally strong that I even wonder how they could be beaten out but when I consider what other places they then lost and their mismanagements I am the less surprized at it The Portuguese were the first discoverers by Sea of the East Indies and had thereby the Advantage of Trade with these 〈◊〉 Eastern people as also an opportunity thro their weakness to settle themselves where they pleased Therefore they made Settlements and Forts among them in divers places of India as here for one and presuming upon the strength of their Forts they insulted over the Natives and being grown rich with Trade they fell to all manner of looseness and debauchery the usual concomitant of Wealth and as commonly the fore runner of Ruin The Portuguese at this place by report made use of the Native Women at their pleasure whether Virgins or Married Women luch as they liked they took without controle and it is probable they as little restrained their lust in
aboard for 20 or 30 leagues farther if the winds did not favour us for the Sea Winds were now at N. W. This day we kept near the shore and the night ensuing but the next day the Wind coming at N. and N. N. E. we stood over for Sumatra and the next evening we past by Diamond Point and the wind coming at E. N. E. we got in about two days more to Achin about the end of November 1689. Here we found Mr Coventry who had got hither 2 or 3 days before us Captain Minchin went ashore with his Passengers and was discharged of his Command I kept aboard till all the goods were unladen and then lay ashore and was very sick for a sortnight of a kind of Fever But after Christmas I was sent aboard again by order of Mr Coventry who had then bought out Mr Dalton's and Capt. Tiler's shares to take charge of the Vessel which he then laded with Pepper Cubebs which I think grow somewhere in Sumatra and Tutanegg which he bought of an English Vessel that came from Queda to Achin and with these he had also some of our Malacca Cargo which we kept on board viz. Rattans and Walking-canes With this Cargo we were bound for Fort St. George We took in also two English Passengers who had escap'd out of Prison in the Mogul's Country The one belong'd to the Defence Captain Heath's Ship which I came home to England in afterwards he was Purser of it the other was Midship man in the Princess Anne which return'd to England at the same time But during our War with the Mogul these Ships had been in the Bay of Bengal to fetch away our effects from the R. of Hugly These 2 men with 2 or 3 others went ashore upon some occasion and were taken Prisoners by the Mogul's Subjects who sent them a great way up into the Country where they were kept in close Custody and often threatned with Death The old Anabob or Governour of the Province being remov'd and a new one coming thither he released these men and gave them leave to go to the Sea side where finding a Dutch Ship bound to Batavia these 2 and one more went aboard her the rest getting other passage but she meeting with that English Ship coming from Queda which brought the Tutanegg I but now mention'd to Achin they left the Dutch Ship and went to Achin with the other English Vessel and those 2 were now for going with us to Fort St George 'T was about New-years day 1690. that we set out from Achin again We steered away toward the Nicobar Islands and came in sight of that which I had formerly been set ashore upon But leaving it on our Star-board we stood more Northerly up into the Bay for by Mr Coventry I had learnt there were Northerly and North Easterly Winds in the Bay at this time of year We stood over therefore as high as Pallacat and having then a fair North East Wind we run along the Coast till we came before Fort St George which was about the middle of January I was much pleased with the Beautiful prospect this place makes off at Sea For it stands in a plain Sandy spot of Ground close by the shore the Sea sometimes washing its Walls which are of Stone and high with Half Moons and Flankers and a great many Guns mounted on the Battlements so that what with the Walls and fine Buildings within the Fort the large Town of Maderas without it the Pyramids of the English Tombs Houses and Gardens adjacent and the variety of fine Trees scatter'd up and down it makes as agreeable a Landskip as I have any where seen But 't is not my design to enter into a Description of a place so well known to my Country-men as this is It may suffice to have mentioned it and that after some months stay here and meeting with Mr Moody and Jeoly the painted Prince I prepared to go for Sumatra again to Bencouli as I have said in my former Vol. p. 512. I set out from Fort St George with Captain Howel in July 1690. we steered a pretty way along the Coast of Coromandel before we stood over for Sumatra and then made the best of our way for Bencouli I have in that Volume spoken of my Arrival there but having given no account of the place I shall do it briefly now and so shut up this Supplement Bencouli lyes on the West Coast of the Island of Sumatra in about 4 d. S. Lat. It is a place noted enough at Sea by reason of a high slender Hill in the Country It has a small Island before it within which Ships ride The point of Sillabar lies 2 or 3 leagues to the Southward of it and runs out farther than any part of the shore making a small bay within it Besides these marks when you come within 2 or 3 Leagues of the shore you 'll see the English Fort fronting to the Sea which makes a fine show On the N. W. of the Fort is a small River at the mouth of which is a large Store-house to put Pepper in About a quarter of a mile from the Sea stands a small Indian Village close by the River on the same side that the Fort is on and but a small distance from it The Houses are small and low all built on posts after the Malayan manner as at Mindanao and Achin for 't is a Swamp that the Town stands on but the Malayans usually choose to build in such low places near Rivers for the convenience of washing themselves which they greatly delight in as 't is indeed a part of their Religion as Mahometans and if they can they will have their Houses stand on posts over the River The Weather here is none of the pleasantest There are great Rains chiefly in September October and November and pretty great heats But when the Wind blew hard which 't would often do the Air would be chill and the Sea-breezes in fair weather were generally pretty fresh and comfortable The Land Winds coming over Swamps usually brought a stink with them 'T is in general an unhealthy place and the Soldiers of the Fort were sickly and died very fast On the South side of the Fort is a fair champion Savannah of a mile or 2 Square called Greenhil It produces long thick Grass the N W. part of it fronts the Sea and the S. E. is bounded with lofty Woods The Soil of this Country is very different according to its different position for within Land 't is hilly yet those hills are cloathed with Trees which shews it to be fruitful enough The low Land near the River especially near the Sea is swampy producing nothing but Reeds or Bamboes but the higher ground which is of a reasonable heigth is very fruitful The mould is deep and is either black or yellow and in some places clay or such mould as is very proper for making Bricks The Trees in the Woods are mostly
Yams Potatoes c. to carry aboard with us on which we fed commonly all our Voyage But after six or seven Months I left that employ also and shipt my self aboard one Capt. Hudsel who was bound to the Bay of Campeachy to load Logwood We sailed from Port-Royal about the beginning of August in 1675. in Company with Capt. Wren in a small Jamaica Bark and Capt. Johnson Commander of a Ketch belonging to New-England This Voyage is all the way before the Wind and therefore Ships commonly sail it in 12 or 14 Days Neither were we longer in our Passage for we had very fair Weather and touch'd no where till we came to Trist Island in the Bay of Campeachy which is the only place they go to In our way thither we first sailed by little Caimanes leaving it on our Larboard side and Key Monbrack which are two small Islands lying South of Cuba The next Land we saw was the Isle of Pines and steering still Westerly we made Cape Corienes And sailing on the South side of Cuba till we came to Cape Antonio which is the West end of it we stretched over towards the Peninsula of Jucatan and fell in with Cape Catoch which is in the Extream part of that Promontory towards the East The Land trends from this Cape one way South about 40 Leagues till you come to the Island Cozumel and from thence it runs S. W. down into the Bay of Honduras About 10 Leagues from Cape Catoch between it and Cozumel lies a small Island called by the Spaniards Key-Muger or Womens-Island because 't is reported that when they went first to settle in these parts they left their Wives there while they went over on the main to find some better Habitation Tho' now they have no settlement near it whatever they have had formerly About 3 Leagues from Cape Catoch and just against it is a small Island called Loggerhead-Key probably because it is frequently visited by a sort of Turtle so called near this Island we always find a great ripling which Seamen call the Rip-raps This Cape tho' it appears to be part of the Main yet is divided from it by a small Creek scarce wide enough for a Canoa to pass through though by it 't is made an Island This I have been credibly informed of by some who yet told me that they made a shift to pass it in a Canoa The Cape is very low Land by the Sea but somewhat higher as you go further from the shore It is all over-grown with Trees of divers sorts especially Logwood and therefore was formerly much frequented by the Jamaica Men who came thither in Sloops to load with it till all the Logwoodtrees near the Sea were cut down but now 't is wholly abandoned because the Carriage of it to the shore requires more labour than the cutting logging and chipping Besides they find better Wood now in the Bays of Campeachy and Honduras and have but little way to carry it not above 300 Paces when I was there whereas at Cape Catoch they were forc'd to carry it 1500 Paces before they left that Place From Cape Catoch we coasted along by the shore on the North side of Jucatan towards Cape Condecedo The Coast lies nearest West The distance between these two Capes is about 80 Leagues The shore lies pretty level without any visible Points or Bendings in the Land It is woody by the shore and full of sandy Bays and lofty Mangroves The first place of Note to the West of Cape Catoch is a small Hill by the Sea call'd the Mount and is distant from it about 14 Leagues It is very remarkable because there is no other High-Land on all this Coast. I was never ashore here but have met with some well acquainted with the Place who are all of opinion that this Mount was not natural but the Work of Men And indeed it is very probable this Place has been inhabited for here are a great many large Cisterns supposed to have been made for the receiving of Rain-water for there are no fresh Springs to be found here the Soil being all sandy and very salt So that as I have been credibly informed by an intelligent Person the Spaniards do fetch of it to make Salt-Petre He also told me that being once there in a Privateer and landing some Men on the Bay they found about 100 Packs of this Earth bound up in Palmeto-leaves and a Spanish Mulatto to guard it The Privateers at first sight of the Packs were in hopes there had been Maiz or Indian Corn in them which they then wanted but opening them they found nothing but Earth and examining the Mulatto for what use it was he said to make Powder and that he expected a Bark from Campeachy to fetch it away He further told me that tasting of it he found it very salt as all the Earth thereabouts was So that 't is not improbable that those Cisterns were made for the carrying on a Salt-Petre-Work But whatever was the design at first it is now wholly laid aside for there is no use made of them neither are there any Inhabitants near this Place Between the Mount and Cape Condecedo close by the Sea are many little Spots of Mangrove-trees which at a distance appear-like Islands but coming nearer when other lower Trees appear it shews like ragged and broken Ground but at last all the Land presents it self to your view very even The next Place of Note on this Coast is Rio de la Gartos almost in the Mid-way between Cape Catoch and Cape Condecedo This also is a very remarkable Place for here are 2 Groves of High Magnroves one on each side the River by which it may be known very well The River is but small yet deep enough for Canoas The Water is good and I know not any other Brook or fresh River on all the Coast from Cape Catoch till within 3 or 4 Leagues of Campeachy Town A little to the East of this River is a Fish-Range and a small Indian Hutt or two within the Woods where the Indian Fishers who are subject to the Spaniards lye in the Fishing-Seasons their Habitations and Familes being farther up in the Country Here are Poles to hang their Nets on and Barbecues to dry their Fish When they go off to Sea they fish with Hook and Line about 4 or 5 Leagues from the shore for Snappers and Gropers which I have already described in my Voyage round the VVorld Chap. 4. Pag. 91. Since the Privateers and Logwood-ships have sailed this way these Fisher-men are very shy having been often snap'd by them So that now when they are out at Sea if they see a Sail they presently sink their Canoas even with the edge of the Water for the Canoas when they are full of Water will sink no lower and they themselves lye just with their heads above Water till the Ship which they saw is pass'd by or comes Night I have seen them under
sail and they have thus vanished on a sudden The Fish which they take near the shore with their Nets are Snooks Dog-fish and sometimes Tarpoms The Tarpom is a large scaly Fish shaped much like a Salmon but somewhat flatter 'T is of a dull Silver Colour with Scales as big as a Half Crown A large Tarpom will weigh 25 or 30 Pound 'T is good sweet wholsom Meat and the Flesh solid and firm In its Belly you shall find two large Scalops of Fat weighing two or three Pound each I never knew any taken with Hook and Line but are either with Nets or by striking them with Harpoons at which the Moskito-Men are very expert The Nets for this purpose are made with strong double Twine the Meshes 5 or 6 Inches square For if they are too small so that the Fish be not intangled therein he presently draws himself a little backward and then springs over the Net Yet I have seen them taken in a Sain made with small Meshes in this manner After we have inclosed a great number whilst the two ends of the Net were drawing ashore 10 or 12 naked Men have followed and when a Fish struck against the Net the next Man to it grasped both Net and Fish in his Arms and held all fast till others came to his assistance Besides these we had three Men in a Canoa in which they mov'd side ways after the Net and many of the Fish in springing over the Net would fall into the Canoa And by these means we should take two or 3 at every Draught These Fish are found plentifully all along that shore from Cape Catoch to Trist especially in clear Water near sandy Bays but no where in muddy or rocky Ground They are also about Jamaica and all the Coast of the Main especially near Carthagena West from Rio de la Gartos there is a Look-out or Watch-tower called Selam This is a Place close by the shore contrived by the Spaniards for their Indians to watch in There are many of them on this Coast Some built from the Ground with Timber others only little Cages placed on a Tree big enough for one or two Men to sit in with a Ladder to go up and down These Watch-towers are never without an Indian or two all the day long the Indians who live near any of them being obliged to take their turns About three or four Leagues Westward of Selam is another Watch-Box on a High Tree called Linchanchee Lookout from a large Indian Town of that Name 4 Leagues up in the Country and two Leagues farther within Land is another Town called Chinchanchee I have been ashore at these Look-outs and have been either rowing in a Canoa or walking ashore on all this Coast even from Rio de la Gartos to Cape Condecedo but did never see any Town by the shore nor any Houses besides Fishing-hutts on all the Coast except only at Sisal Between Selam and Linchanchee are many small regular Salt Ponds divided from each other by little Banks the biggest Pond not above 10 Yards long and 6 broad The Inhabitants of these two Towns attend these Ponds in the Months of May June and July to gather the Salt which supplies all the Inland Towns of these Parts and there is a skirt of Wood between the Sea and the Ponds that you can neither see them nor the People at Work till you come ashore From these Salt Ponds further West about three or four Leagues is the Look-out called Sisal This is the highest and most remarkable on all the Coast it stands close by the Sea and it is built with Timber This is the first Object that we make off at Sea and sometimes we take it for a Sail till running nearer we discover the high Mangrove-trees appearing in small Tufts at several Distances from it Not far from hence there is a Fort with 40 or 50 Soldiers to Guard the Coast and from this Place there is a Road through the Country to the City of Merida This is the chiefest City in all the Province of Jucatan it being inhabited mostly with Spaniards Yet there are many Indian Families among them who live in great subjection as do the rest of the Indians of this Country The Province of Jucatan especially this Northern and the most Easterly Part of it is but indifferently fruitful in comparison of that rich Soil farther to the West Yet is it pretty populous of Indians who all live together in Towns but none within five or six Miles of the Sea except as I said at two or three Fishing Places and even there the Indians resort to fish but at certain Seasons of the Year Therefore when Privateers come on this Coast they fear not to Land and ramble about as if they were in their own Country seeking for Game of any sort either Fowl or Deer of both which there are great plenty especially of the latter though sometimes they pay dear for it A small Jamaica Privateer once Landed 6 or 7 Men at this Look-out of Sisal who not suspecting any danger ordered the Canoa with 3 or 4 Men to row along by the shore to take them in upon their giving a sign or firing a Gun But within half an hour they were attack'd by about 40 Spanish Soldiers who had cut them off from the shore to whom they surrendred themselves Prisoners The Spaniards carried them in triumph to the Fort and then demanded which was the Captain Upon this they all stood mute for the Captain was not among them and they were afraid to tell the Spaniards so for fear of being all hanged for Straglers Neither did any one of them dare to assume that Title because they had no Commission with them nor the Copy of it for the Captains don't usually go ashore without a Copy at least of their Commission which is wont to secure both themselves and their Men. At last one John Hullock cock'd up his little cropt Hat and told them that he was the Captain and the Spaniards demanding his Commission he said it was aboard for that he came ashore only to hunt not thinking to have met any Enemy The Spaniards were well satisfied with this Answer and afterwards respected him as the Captain and served him with better Provision and Lodging than the rest and the next day when they were sent to the City of Merida about 12 or 13 Leagues from thence Captain Hullock had a Horse to ride on while the rest went on Foot And though they were all kept in close Prison yet Hullock had the honour to be often sent for to be examined at the Governours House and was frequently Regal'd with Chocolate c. From thence they were carried to Campeachy Town where still Captain Hullock was better served than his Comrades At last I know not how they all got their Liberties and Hullock was ever after call'd Captain Jack It is about 8 Leagues from Sisal to Cape Condecedo Twenty Leagues North of which
Pines lyes on the South side towards the West end of Cuba and is distant from it 3 or 4 Leagues Cape Corientes on Cuba is five or six Leagues to the Westward of the Isle of Pines Between Pines and Cuba are many small woody Islands scattered here and there with Channels for Ships to pass between and by report there is good anchoring near any of them Jamaica Sloops do sometimes pass through between Cuba and Pines when they are bound to Wind-ward because there the Sea is always smooth They are also certain to meet good Land-winds besides they can Anchor when they please and thereby take the benefit of the Tides and when they are got past the East end of Pines they may either stand out to Sea again or if they are acquainted among the small Islands to the East of it which are called the South Keys of Cuba they may range amongst them to the Eastward still taking the greater benefit of Land-winds and Anchoring Besides if Provision is scarce they will meet Jamaica Turtlers or else may get Turtle themselves at which many of them are expert There is also plenty of Fish of many sorts but if they are not provided with Hooks Lines or Harpoons or any other Fishing-Craft nor meet with any Turtlers Cuba will afford them Sustenance of Hog or Beef The great Inconvenience of going in the inside of Pines between it and Cuba proceeds from a Spanish Garrison of about 40 Soldiers at Cape Corientes who have a large Periago well fitted with Oars and Sails and are ready to launch out and seize any small Vessel and seldom spare the Lives as well as the Goods of those that fall into their Hands for fear of telling Tales Such Villanies are frequently practised not only here but also in several other Places of the West Indies and that too with such as came to Trade with their Country-men The Merchants and Gentry indeed are no way guilty of such Actions only the Soldiers and Rascality of the People and these do commonly consist of Mulatoes or some other sort of Copper Colour Indians who are accounted very Barbarous and Cruel The Isle of Pines is about 11 or 12 Leagues long and 3 or 4 broad The West end of it is low Mangrovy Land and within which is a Lagune of about 3 or 4 Miles wide running to the Eastward but how far I know not with a small Creek of 2 or 3 Foot Water reaching to the Sea The Lagune it self is so shallow especially near the Island that you cannot bring a Canoa within 20 or 30 Paces of the shore The South side of the Island is low flat and rocky the Rocks are perpendicularly steep towards the Sea so that there is no Anchoring on that side but at the West end very good in sandy Ground The body of the Island is high Land with many little Hills incompassing a high Pike or Mountain standing in the middle The Trees that grow here are of divers sorts most of them unknown to me Red Mangroves grow in the low swampy Land against the Sea but on the firm hilly part Pine-Trees are most plentiful of these here are great Groves of a good height and bigness streight and large enough to make Topmasts or standing Masts for small Vessels at the West end there is a pretty big River of fresh Water but no coming at it near the Sea for red Mangroves which grow so thick on both sides of it that there is no getting in among them The Land-Animals are Bullocks Hogs Dear c. here are small Savannahs for the Bullocks and Deer to feed in as well as Fruit in the Woods for the Hogs Here are also a sort of Racoons or Indian Conies and in some Places plenty of Land-Turtle and Land-Crabs of two sorts white and black Both of them make holes in the Ground like Conies where they shelter themselves all day and in the Night come out to feed they will eat Grass Herbs or such Fruit as they find under the Trees The Manchaniel Fruit which neither Bird nor Beast will taste is greedily devoured by them without doing them any harm Yet these very Crabs that feed on Manchaneel are venomous both to Man and Beast that feeds on them though the others are very good Meat The white Crabs are the largest sort some of them are as big as a Mans two Fists joyned together they are shaped like Sea-Crabs having one large Claw wherewith they will pinch very hard neither will they let go their hold though you bruise them in pieces unless you break the Claw too but if they chance to catch your Fingers the way is to lay your Hand Crab and all flat on the Ground and he will immediately loose his hold and scamper away These white ones build in wet swampy dirty Ground near the Sea so that the Tide washes into their Holes but the black Crab is more cleanly delighting to live in dry Places and makes its House in sandy Earth Black Crabs are commonly fat and full of Eggs they are also accounted the better Meat tho' both sorts are very good Here are also a great many Alligators and Crocodiles that haunt about this Island and are said to be the most daring in all the West Indies I have heard of many of their Tricks as that they have followed a Canoa and put their Noses in over the Gunnal with their Jaws wide open as if ready to devour the Men in it And that when they have been ashore in the Night near the Sea the Crocodiles have boldly come in among them and made them run from their Fire and taken away their Meat from them Therefore when Privateers are hunting on this Island they always keep Sentinels out to watch for these ravenous Creatures as duly as they do in other Places for fear of Enemies especially in the Night for fear of being devoured in their sleep The Spaniards of Cuba have here some Craules i. e. Herds of Hogs with a few Indians or Mulatoes to look after them Here are also Hunters that gain a livelihood by killing wild Hog and Beef This Island is reported to be very wet I have heard many say that it rains here more or less every day in the Year but this I suppose is a mistake for there fell no Rain about us so long as we stayed here neither did I see any appearance of it in other Places of the Island We were no sooner at an Anchor but five of us went ashore leaving only the Cook and Cabbin-Boy aboard We had but two bad fowling Pieces in the Ship those we took with us with a design to Kill Beef and Hog We went into the Lagune where we found Water enough for our Canoa and in some Places not much to spare when we were got almost over it we saw 8 or 10 Bulls and Cows feeding on the shore close by the Sea This gave us great hopes of good success We therefore rowed away aside off the
covered with Pantile There is a strong Citadel or Fort at one end planted with many Guns where the Governour resides with a small Garrison to defend it Though this Port Commands the Town and Harbour yet it hath been twice taken First by Sir Christopher Mims who about the Year 1659. having summoned the Governour and afterwards stayed 3 days for an Answer before he Landed his Men yet then took it by Storm and that only with small Arms. I have been told that when he was advised by the Jamaica Privateers to take it by Stratagem in the Night he replied that he scorned to steal a Victory therefore when he went against it he gave them warning of his Approach by his Drums and Trumpets yet he took the Fort at the first onset and immediately became Master of the Place It was taken a second time by English and French Privateers about the Year 1678. by surprize They Landed in the Night about 2 Leagues from the Town and marching into the Country lighted on a Path that brought them thither The next Morning near Sun-rising they entred the Town when many of the Inhabitants were now stirring in their Houses who hearing a noise in the Street look'd out to know the occasion and seeing Armed Men marching towards the Fort supposed them to be some Soldiers of their own Garrison that were returned out of the Country for about a Fortnight or 3 VVeeks before they had sent out a Party to suppress some Indians then in Rebellion a thing very Common in this Country Under favour of this Supposition the Privateers marched through the Streets even to the Fort without the least Opposition Nay the Towns-People bad them Good Morrow and Congratulated their safe return not discovering them to be Enemies till they fired at the Sentinels on the Fort-wall and presently after began a furious Attack and turning two small Guns which they found in the Parade against the Gates of the Fort they soon made themselves Masters of it The Town is not very rich though as I said before the only Sea-Port on all this Coast. The chiefest Manufacture of the Country is Cotton-Cloath this serves for cloathing the Indians and even the poorer sort of Spaniards wear nothing else It is used also for making Sails for Ships and remitted to other parts for the same purpose Besides Cotton-Cloath and Salt fetch'd from the Salinas I know of no other vendible Commodity exported hence Indeed formerly this place was the Scale of the whole Logwood-Trade which is therefore still called Palo i. e. VVood de Campeachy tho' it did not grow nearer than at 12 or 14 Leagues distance from the Town The place where the Spaniards did then cut it was at a River called Champeton about 10 or 12 Leagues to Leeward of Campeachy Town the Coast from thence South the Land pretty high and rocky The Native Indians that lived hereabouts were hired to cut it for a Ryal a Day it then being worth 90 100 01 110 l. per Tun. After the English had taken Jamaica and began to cruise in this Bay they found many Barks laden with it but not knowing its value then they either set them adrift or burned them saving only the Nails and Iron work a thing now usual among the Privateers taking no notice at all of the Cargo till Cap. James having taken a great Ship laden with it and brought her home to England to fit her for a Privateer beyond his Expectation sold his VVood at a great rate tho' before he valued it so little that he burned of it all his Passage home After his return to Jamaica the English visiting this Bay found out the Place where it grew and if they 〈◊〉 Prize at Sea they would go to Champeton 〈◊〉 where they were certain to find large Piles cut to their Hand and brought to the Sea-side ready to be ship'd off This was their Common Practice till at last the Spaniards sent Soldiers thither to prevent their Depredations But by this time the English knew the Trees as growing and understanding their value began to rummage other Coasts of the Main in search of it till according to their desire they found large Groves of it first at Cape Catoch which as I have said before was the first Place where they setled to Logwood-Cutting and loaded many Vessels from thence to Jamaica and other Places But it growing scarce there they found out the Lagune of Trist in the Bay of Campeachy where they followed the same Trade and have ever since continued it even to the time of my being here But to proceed From the River Champeton to Port-Royal is about 18 Leagues the Coast S. S. VV. or S. VV. by S. Low-land with a sandy Bay against the Sea and some Trees by the shore with small Savanahs mixt with small shrubby VVoods within Land all the way There is only one River between Champeton and Port-Royal called Port Escondedo Port-Royal is a broad Entrance into a Salt Lagune of 9 or 10 Leagues long and 3 or 4 wide with 2 Mouths one at each end This Mouth of Port-Royal hath a Barr whereon there is 9 or 10 Foot VVater VVithin the Bar it is deep enough and there is good Anchoring on either side The entrance is about a Mile over and two Miles in length it hath fair sandy Bays on each side with smooth Landing Ships commonly Anchor on the VVeather or East side next Champeton both for the convenience of some VVells there dug on the Bays by the Privateers and Logwood-Cutters as also to ride more out of the Tide which here runs very strong This Place is remarkable enough because from hence the Land trends away VVest and runs so for about 65 or 70 Leagues farther On the VVest side of this Harbour is a low Island called by Us Port-Royal-Island which makes one side of the Mouth as the Main does the other It is about 2 Miles wide and 3 Leagues long running East and VVest The East end of this Island is sandy and pretty clear of VVoods with some Grass bearing a small prickly Bur no bigger than a Grey Pea which renders it very troublesom to those that walk bare-foot as the Bay-Men often do There are some Bushes of Burton-wood And a little further to the VVest grow large Sapadillo-Trees whose Fruit is long and very pleasant The rest of the Island is more woody especially the North side which is full of white Mangrove close to the shore On the VVest side of this Island is another small low Island called Trist separated from the former by a small Salt Creek scarce broad enough for a Canoa to padle through The Island Trist is in some Places three Mile wide and about 4 Leagues in Length running E. and W. The East end is swampy and full of white Mangroves and the South side much the same The VVest part is dry and sandy bearing a sort of long Grass growing in Tufts very thin This is a sort of
enough for small Barks 7 or 8 Mile up The Water is fresh 10 Months but in the midst of the dry Season 't is brackish Four Mile from the Mouth the Land on both sides these two Branches is wet and swampy affording only Mangroves by the Creeks sides only at the Heads of them there are many large Oaks besides which I did never see any growing within the Tropicks but 20 Paces within that grows plenty of Logwood therefore the Cutters settled themselves here also On the West side of the West Branch lyes a large Pasture for Cattle about 3 Miles from the Creek to which the Logwood-Cutters had made paths from their Huts to hunt Cattle which are always there in great numbers and commonly fatter than those in the Neighbouring Savannahs and therefore was called the fat Savannah and this West Creek was always most inhabited by Logwood-Cutters The Logwood-Trade was grown very common before I came hither here being as I said before about 260 or 270 Men living in all the Lagune and at Beef-Island of which Isle I shall speak hereafter This Trade had its Rise from the decay of Privateering for after Jamaica was well settled by the English and a Peace established with Spain the Privateers who had hitherto lived upon plundering the Spaniards were put to their shifts for they had prodigally spent whatever they got and now wanting subsistence were forced either to go to Petit Guavas where the Privateer-Trade still continued or into the Bay for Logwood The more Industrious sort of them came hither yet even these though they could work well enough if they pleased yet thought it a dry business to toil at Cutting Wood. They were good Marks-Men and so took more delight in Hunting but neither of those Employments affected them so much as Privateering therefore they often made Sallies out in small Parties among the nearest Indian Towns where they plundred and brought away the Indian Women to serve them at their Huts and sent their Husbands to be sold at Jamaica besides they had not their old Drinking-bouts forgot and would still spend 30 or 40 l. at a sitting aboard the Ships that came hither from Jamaica carousing and firing off Guns 3 or 4 days together And tho' afterwards many sober Men came into the Bay to cut Wood yet by degrees the old Standers so debauched them that they could never settle themselves under any Civil Government but continued in their Wickedness till the Spaniards encouraged by their careless Rioting fell upon them and took most of them singly at their own Huts and carried them away Prisoners to Campeachy or La Vera Cruz from whence they were sent to Mexico and sold to several Tradesmen in that City and from thence after two or three Years when they could speak Spanish many of them made their Escapes and marched in by-Paths back to La Vera Cruz and by the Flota conveyed to Spain and so to England I have spoke with many of them since who told me that none of them were sent to the Silver Mines to Work but kept in or near the City and never suffered to go with their Caravans to New Mexico or that way I relate this because it is generally suggested that the Spaniards commonly send their Prisoners thither and use them very barbarously but I could never learn that any European has been thus served whether for fear of discovering their Weakness or for any other Reason I know not But to proceed It is most certain that the Logwood-Cutters that were in the Bay when I was there were all routed or taken a thing I ever feared and that was the reason that moved me at last to come away although a Place where a Man might have gotten an Estate Having thus given an Account of the first settling of this Place by my Country-men I shall next say something concerning the Seasons of the Year some particulars of the Country its Animals of the Logwood-Trade and their manner of Hunting and several remarkable Passages that happened during my stay there This part of the Bay of Campeachy lyes in about 18d of North Lat. The Sea-Breezes here in fair weather are at N. N. E. or N. The Land-winds are at S. S. E. and S. but in bad Weather at E. S. E. a hard gale for two or three days together The dry Season begins in September and holds till April or May then comes in the wet Season which begins with Tornadoes first one in a day and by degrees increasing till June and then you have set Rains till the latter end of August This swells the Rivers so that they over-flow and the Savannahs begin to be covered with Water and although there may be some Intermissions of dry Weather yet there are still plentiful showers of Rain so that as the water does not increase neither does it decrease but continues thus till the North Winds are set in strong and then all the Savannahs for many Miles seems to be but part of the Sea The Norths do commonly set in about the beginning of October and continue by intervals till March But of these I shall speak more in my Chapter of Winds These Winds blowing right in on the Land drive in the Sea and keep the Tides from their constant Course as long as they last which is sometimes two or three Days by this means the Freshes are pent up and overflow much more than before tho' there be less Rain They blow most fiercely in December and January but afterwards they decrease in strength and are neither so frequent nor lasting and then the Freshes begin to drain from off the low Ground By the middle of Feb. the Land is all dry and in the next Month perhaps you will scarce get Water to drink even in those Savannahs that but 6 Weeks before were like a Sea By the beginning of April the Ponds also in the Savannahs are all dryed up and one that knows not how to get Water otherways may perish for thirst but those that are acquainted here in their Necessity make to the Woods and refresh themselves with Water that they find in wild Pines The wild Pine is a plant so called because it somewhat resembles the Bush that bears the Pine they are commonly supported or grow from some Bunch Knot or Excrescence of the Tree where they take root and grow upright The root is short and thick from whence the Leaves rise up in folds one within another spreading off at the top They are of a good thick Substance and about 10 or 12 Inches long The out side Leaves are so compact as to contain the Rain-water as it falls They will hold a Pint and a half or a Quart and this Water refreshes the Leaves and nourishes the Root When we find these Pines we stick our Knives into the Leaves just above the Root and that lets out the Water which we catch in our Hats as I have done many times to my great relief The Land near
the Sea or the Lagunes is Mangrovy and always wet but at a little distance from it it is fast and firm and never over-flowed but in the wet Season The Soil is a strong yellowish Clay But yet the upper Coat or surface is a black mould tho' not deep Here grow divers sorts of Trees of no great bulk nor height Among these the Logwood-Trees thrive best and are very plentiful this being the most proper Soil for them for they do not thrive in dry Ground neither shall you see any growing in rich black mould They are much like our white Thorns in England but generally a great deal bigger the Rind of the young growing Branches is white and smooth with some prickles shooting forth here and there So that an English-man not knowing the difference would take them for White-Thorns but the Body and the old Branches are blackish the Rind rougher with few or no prickles The Leaves are small and shaped like the Common White-Thorn-Leaf of a palish Green We always chuse to cut the old black-rinded Trees for these have less sap and require but little pains to chip or cut it The sap is white and the heart red The heart is used much for dying therefore we chip off all the white sap till we come to the heart and then it is fit to be transported to Europe After it has been chip'd a little while it turns black and if it lyes in the VVater it dyes it like Ink and sometimes it has been used to write with Some Trees are 5 or 6 Foot in Circumference and these we can scarce cut into Logs small enough for a Man's Burthen without great Labour and therefore are forced to blow them up It is a very ponderous sort of wood and burns very well making a clear strong fire and very lasting VVe always harden the Steels of our Fire-Arms when they are faulty in a Logwood-fire if we can get it but otherways as I said before with Burton-wood or the Grape-tree The true Logwood I think grows only in this Country of Jucatan and even there but only in some Places near the Sea The chiefest places for it are either here or at Cape Catoch and on the South side of Jucatan in the Bay of Honduras There are other sorts of VVood much like it in colour and used for dying also Some more esteemed others of lesser value Of these sorts Bloodwood and Stock-fish-wood are of the natural growth of America The Gulph of Nicaragua which opens against the Isle of Providence is the only Place that I know in the North Seas that produces the Blood-wood And the Land on the other side of the Country against it in the South Seas produceth the same sorts This Wood is of a brighter red than the Logwood It was sold for 30 l. per Tun when Logwood was but at 14 or 15 and at the same time Stock-Fish-Wood went at 7 or 8. This last sort grows in the Country near Rio la Hacha to the East of St. Martha by the sides of Rivers in the Low-Land It is a smaller sort of Wood than the former I have seen a Tree much like the Logwood in the River of Conception in the Sambaloes and I know it will dye but whether it be either of these two sorts I know not Besides here and in the places before-mentioned I have not met with any such Wood in America At Cherburg near Sierra-Leone in Africa there is Camwood which is much like Blood-wood if not the same And at Tunqueen in the East Indies there is also such another sort I have not heard of any more in any part of the World But to proceed The Land as you go farther from the Sea riseth still somewhat higher and becomes of a more plantable Mould There the Trees are generally of another sort growing higher and taller than the Logwood-trees or any near them Beyond this you still enter into large Savannahs of long Grass two or three Miles wide in some Places much more The Mould of the Savannahs is generally black and deep producing a course sort of sedgy Grass In the latter end of the dry time we set fire to it which runs like Wild-fire and keeps burning as long as there is any Fewel unless some good shower of Rain puts it out Then presently springs up a new green Crop which thrives beyond all belief The Savannahs are bounded on each side with Ridges of higher Land of a light-brown Colour deep and very fruitful producing extraordinary great high Trees The Land for 10 or 20 Miles from the Sea is generally compos'd of many Ridges of delicate wood-Wood-land and large Furrows of pleasant grassy Savannahs alternately intermixed with each other The Animals of this Country are Horses Bullocks Deer Warree Pecary Squashes Possums Monkies Ant-Bears Sloths Armadilloes Porcupines Land-turtle Guanoes and Lizards of all kinds The Squash is a four-footed Beast bigger than a Cat It 's Head is much like a Foxes with short Ears and a long Nose It has pretty short Legs and sharp Claws by which it will run up Trees like a Cat. The Skin is coverd with short fine yellowish Hair The flesh of it is good sweet wholesom Meat We commonly skin and roast it and then we call it Pig and I think it eats as well It feeds on nothing but good Fruit therefore we find them most among the Sapadillo-Trees This Creature never rambles very far and being taken young will become as tame as a Dog and be as roguish as a Monkey The Monkies that are in these Parts are the ugliest I ever saw They are much bigger than a Hare and have great Tails about two foot and half long The under-side of their Tails is all bare with a black hard skin but the upper side and all the Body is covered with course long black staring Hair These Creatures keep together 20 or 30 in a Company and ramble over the Woods leaping from Tree to Tree If they meet with a single Person they will threaten to devour him When I have been alone I have been afraid to shoot them especially the first time I met them They were a great Company dancing from Tree to Tree over my Head chattering and making a terrible Noise and a great many grim Faces and shewing Antick Gestures Some broke down dry Sticks and threw at me others scattered their Urine and Dung about my Ears at last one bigger than the rest came to a small Limb just over my Head and leaping directly at me made me start back but the Monkey caught hold of the Bough with the tip of his Tail and there continued swinging to and fro and making Mouths at me At last I past on they still keeping me Company with the like menacing Postures till I came to our Huts The Tails of these Monkies are as good to them as one of their Hands and they will hold as fast by them If two or more of us were together they would hasten from us
observed his Method in curing the Horse which was this First he strok'd the sore Place then applying to it a little rough Powder which looked like Tobacco Leaves dryed and crumbled small mumbling some Words to himself he blew upon the part three times and waving his Hands as often over it said it would be well speedily His Fee for the Cure was a White Cock Then coming to me and looking on the Worm in my Ancle he promised to cure it in three Days demanding also a White Cock for his pains and using exactly the same Method with me as he did with the Horse He bad me not open it in three Days but I did not stay so long for the next Morning the Cloath being rubb'd off I unbound it and found the Worm broken off and the Hole quite healed up I was afraid the remaining part would have given some trouble but have not felt any pain there from that day to this To return I told you how I was interrupted in following my Work by the Worms breeding in my Leg. And to compleat my misfortune presently after we had the most violent Storm for above 24 Hours that ever was known in these Parts An Account of which I shall give more particularly in my Discourse of Winds and shall now only mention some Passages I have already said we were four of us in Company at this Place cutting Logwood and by this Storm were reduced to great Inconveniencies for while that lasted we could dress no Victuals nor even now it was over unless we had done it in the Canoa for the highest Land near us was almost 3 Foot under Water besides our Provision too was most of it spoiled except the Beef and Pork which was but little the worse We had a good Canoa large enough to carry us all and seeing it in vain to stay here any longer we all embarked and rowed away to One-Bush-Key about 4 Leagues from our Huts There were 4 Ships riding here when the Storm began but at our arrival we found only one and hoped to have got some Refreshment from it but found very cold entertainment For we could neither get Bread nor Punch nor so much as a Dram of Rum though we offered them Money for it The Reason was they were already over-charged with such as being distressed by the Storm had been forced to take Sanctuary with them seeing we could not be supplied here we asked which way the other three Ships were driven they told us that Capt. Prout of New-England was driven towards Trist and 't was probable he was carried out to Sea unless he stuck on a Sand called the Middle Ground that Capt. Skinner of New-England was driven towards Beef-Island and Captain Chandler of London drove away towards Man-of-War Lagune Beef-Island lies North from One-Bush-Key but the other two Places lie a little on each side One to the East the other to the West So away we went for Beef-Island and coming within a League of it we saw a Flag in the Woods made fast to a Pole and placed on the Top of a high Tree And coming still nearer we at last saw a Ship in the Woods about 200 Yards from the Sea We rowed directly towards her and when we came to the Woods side found a pretty clear Passage made by the Ship through the Woods the Trees being all broke down And about three Foot Water Home to the Ship We rowed in with our Canoa and went Aboard and were kindly Entertained by the Seamen but the Captain was gone Aboard Captain Prout who stuck fast on the middle Ground before-mentioned Captain Prout's Ship was afterwards got off again but the Stumps of the Trees ran clear through the bottom of Captain Skinner's therefore there was no hope of saving her Here we got Victuals and Punch and stayed about two Hours in which time the Captain came Aboard and invited us to stay all Night But hearing some Guns fired in Man-of-War Lagune we concluded that Captain Chandler was there and wanted assistance Therefore we presently rowed away thither for we could do no Service here and before Night found him also stuck fast on a Point of Sand. The Head of his Ketch was dry and at the Stern there was above 4 Foot Water Our coming was very seasonable to Captain Chandler with whom we stayed two Days in which time we got out all his Goods carried off his Anchor c. and so not being able as yet to do him more Service we left him for the present and went away to hunt at Beef-Island At Trist were four Vessels riding before this Storm one of them was driven off to Sea and never heard of afterwards Another was cast dry upon the shore where she lay and was never got off again But the third rode it out Another was riding without the Bar of Trist and she put to Sea and got to New-England but much shattered About three days before this Storm began a small Vessel Commanded by Captain Vally went hence bound to Jamaica This Vessel was given for lost by all the Logwood-Cutters but about 4 Months after she returned thither again and the Captain said he felt nothing of the Storm but when he was about 30 Leagues to Wind-ward of Trist he had a fresh Summasenta-Wind that carried him as high as Cape Condecedo but all the time he saw very black Clouds to the Westward Beef-Island is about 7 Leagues long and 3 or 4 broad It lies in length East and West The East end looks toward the Island Trist and is low drowned Land and near the Sea produceth nothing but white and black Mangrove-Trees The North side lies open to the Main Sea running straight from East to West The Eastermost part for about three Leagues from Trist is Low and Mangrovy at the end of which there is a small salt Creek deep enough at high Water for Boats to pass From this Creek to the West end is 4 Leagues all sandy Bay closed on the backside with a low Sand-bank abounding with thick prickly Bushes like a White-thorn bearing a whitish hard Shell-Fruit as big as a Sloe much like a Calla-bash The West end is washed with the River St. Peter St. Paul This end is over-grown with red Mangroves About 3 Leagues up from the Mouth of this River shoots forth a small Branch running to the Eastward and dividing Beef-Island form the Main on the South and afterwards makes a great Lake of fresh Water called Fresh Water Lagune This afterward falls into a Salt Lake called Man-of-War Lagune which emptys it self into Laguna Termina about 2 Leagues from the S. E. Point of the Island The inside or middle of this Island is a Savannah bordered all round with Trees most Mangrovy either black white or red with some Logwood The South side between the Savannahs and the Mangroves is very rich Sometimes this Land lyes in Ridges higher than the Savannahs The Savannahs produce plenty of long Grass and the Ridges
great goggle Eyes and is very quick sighted It has a thick Neck and strong Legs but weak Footlocks The Hoofs of his Feet are Cloven in the middle And it has two small Hoofs above the Footlock which bending to the Ground when it goes make an Impression on the Sand like four Claws His Tail is short and tapering like a Swines without any Bob at the end This Beast is commonly fat and very good Meat It graseth ashore in wet swampy Ground near Rivers or Ponds but retires to the Water if pursued When they are in the Water they will sink down to the bottom and there walk as on dry Ground They will run almost as fast as a Man but if chased hard they will turn about and look very fierce like a Boar and fight if put to it The Natives of the Country have no Wars with these Creatures but we had many Conflicts with them both on Shore and in the Rivers and though we commonly got the better by killing some and routing the rest yet in the Water we durst not molest them after one Bout which had like to have proved fatal to 3 Men that went in a small Canoa to kill a single Sea-Horse in a River where was 8 or 10 Foot Water The Horse according to his Custom was marching in the bottom of the River and being espied by these Men they wounded him with a long Lance which so enraged the Beast that he rose up immediately and giving a fierce look he opened his Jaws and bit a great piece of the Gunnal or upper edge of the Canoa and was like to over-set it but presently sunk down again to the bottom and the Men made away as fast as they could for fear he should come again The West Branch of the River St. Peter St. Paul after it has run 8 or 9 Leagues N. W loseth it self in Tobasco River about 4 Leagues from the Sea and so makes the Island Tobasco which is 12 Leagues long and 4 broad at the North end for from the River St. Peter St. Paul to the mouth of Tobasco River is accounted 4 Leagues and the Shore lies East and West The first League on the East is mangrove-Mangrove-Land with some Sandy Bay where Turtle come ashore to lay their Eggs. The West part of it is Sandy Bay quite to the River Tobasco But because here is constantly a great Sea you have no good Landing till within the River The N. W. part of it is full of Guaver Trees of the greatest variety and their fruit the largest and best tasted I have met with and 't is really a very delicious place There are also some Coco-Plums and Grapes but not many The Savannahs here are naturally fenced with Groves of Guavers and produce good Grass for Pasture and are pretty well stock'd with fat Bullocks and I do believe it is from their eating the Guaver Fruit that these Trees are so thick For this fruit is full of small seeds which being swallowed whole by the Cattle are voided whole by them again and then taking root in their Dung spring up abundantly Here are also Deer in great numbers these we constantly find feeding in the Savannahs Mornings and Evenings And I remember an unlucky Accident whilst I was there Two or three Men went out one Evening purposely to hunt when they were in the spots of Savannahs they separated to find their Game and at last it so happened that one of them fired at a Deer and killed it and while he was skinning it he was shot stark dead by one of his Consorts who fired at him mistaking him for a Deer The poor Man was very sorry for so sad a mischance and for fear of the dead Man's Friends durst never go back again to Jamaica The River of Tobasco is the most noted in all the Bay of Campeachy and springs also from the high Mountains of Chiapo but much more to the Westward than that of St. Peter St. Paul From thence it runs N. E. till within 4 Leagues of the Sea where it receives the fore-mentioned Branch of St. Peter St. Paul and then runs North till it falls into the Sea Its Mouth is about two Miles wide and there is a Bar of Sand lying off it with not above 11 or 12 foot Water but a Mile or two within the Mouth at a nook or bending of the River on the East-side there is three Fathom and good Riding without any danger from the strength of the Current The Tide flows up about four Leagues in the dry Season but in the Rains not so far for then the Freshes make the Ebb run very strong During the Norths it over-flows all the low Land for 14 or 15 Leagues up the River and you may then take up fresh Water without the Bar. This River near its Mouth abounds with Cat-fish with some Snooks and Manatee in great plenty there being good feeding for them in many of its Creeks especially in one place on the Starbord side about 2 Leagues from the Sea which runs into the Land 2 or 300 paces and then opens very wide and is so shoal that you may see their backs above Water as they feed a thing so rare that I have heard our Musketo-men say they never saw it any where else On the least noise they will all scamper out into the River yet the Musketo-men seldom miss of striking them These are a sort of Fresh-water Manatee not altogether so big as the Sea kind but otherwise exactly alike in shape and tast and I think rather fatter The Land by the Rivers especially on tne Starbord side is swampy and over-grown with Trees Here are also abundance of Land-Turtle the largest that I ever saw till I came to the Gallapagos Islands in the S. Seas viz. Mangroves Macaws and other sorts that I know not In some places near the River side further up the Country are Ridges of dry Land full of lofty Cabbage and Cotton Trees which make a very pleasant Landskip There is no Settlement within 8 Leagues of the River's Mouth and then you come to a small Breast-work where there is commonly a Spaniard with 8 or 9 Indians posted on each side the River to watch for Boats coming that way And because there are divers Greeks running in from the Savannahs some of these Sentinels are so placed in the Woods that they may look into the Savannahs for fear of being surprized on the back side Yet for all their caution these Sentinels were snap'd by Captain Nevil Commander of a small Brigantine in a second Expedition that he made to take the Town called Villa de Mose His first Attempt miscarried by his being discovered But the second time he got into a Creek a League below these Sentinels and there dragging his Canoas over some Trees that were laid cross it purposely to hinder his passage he came in the night upon their backs in their several Posts so that the Town having no notice of his coming
of Cattle belonging to an Indian Village In the Woods on each side this River there are plenty of Guanoes Land-Turtle and abundance of Quams and Corresos with some Parrots and there is no Settlement nearer than the Beef Estantion nor any thing else remarkable in this River that I know A League West from Checapeque there is another small River called Dos Boccas 't is only fit for Canoas to enter It has a Bar at its Mouth and therefore is somewhat dangerous Yet the Privateers make light of it for they will govern a Canoa very ingeniously However Captain Rives and Captain Hewet two Privateers lost several Men here in coming out for there had been a North which had raised the Bar and in going out most of their Canoas were over-set and some Men drowned This River wlll not float a Canoa above a League within its Mouth and so far is salt but there you meet with a fine clear Stream of fresh Water about a League up in the Country and beyond this are fair Savannahs of long Grass fenced in with Ridges of as rich Land as any in the World The Mold such as is formerly described all plain and level even to the Hills of Chiapo There are no Indian Towns within 4 or 5 Leagues of the Sea but further off they are pretty thick lying within a League 2 or 3 one of another Halpo is the chiefest The Indians make use of no more Land than serves to maintain their Families in Maiz and to pay their Taxes And therefore between the Towns it lies uncultivated In all this Country they rear abundance of Poultry Viz. Turkies Ducks and Dunghil Fowls but some of them have Cacao-Walks The Cacao of these Parts is most of it sent to Villa de Mose and ship'd off there Some of it is sold to Carriers that travail with Mules coming hither commonly in Nov. or Dec. and staying till Febr. or March They lye a Fortnight at a time in a Village to dispose of their Goods which are commonly Hatchets Macheats Axes Hoes Knives Cizars Needles Thread Silk for sowing Womens Frocks small Looking-glasses Beads Silver or Copper Rings wash'd with Gold set with Glass instead of Stones small Pictures of Saints and such like Toys for the Indians And for the Spaniards Linnen and Woollen Cloaths Silks Stockings and old Hats new dress'd which are here very valuable and worn by those of the best Quality so that an old English Beaver thus ordered would be worth 20 Dollars so much is Trade wanted here in this Country When he has sold off his Goods he is generally paid in Cacao which he carries to La Vera Cruz. From Dos Boccas to the River Palmas is 4 Leagues low Land and sandy Bay between From Palmas to the Halover is 2 Leagues The Halover is a small Neck of Land parting the Sea from a large Lagune It is so call'd by the Privateers because they use to drag their Canoas in and out there From the Halover to St. Anns is 6 Leagues St. Anns is a Mouth that opens the Lagune before mentioned there is not above 6 or 7 Foot Water yet Barks often go in there to Careen From St. Anns to Tondelo is 5 Leagues The Coast still West the Land low and sandy Bay against the Sea a little within which are pretty high Sand-Banks cloathed with prickly Bushes such as I have already described at Beef-Island Against the Sea near the West end within the Sand Bank the Land is lower again the Woods not very high and some spots of Savannahs with plenty of fat Bullocks In Hunting of which a Frenchman unhappily lost his Life For his Company being stragled from him to find Game he unluckily met a Drove of Cattle flying from them in the Woods which were so thick that there was no passing but in these very narrow Paths that the Cattle themselves had made so that not being able to get out of their way the foremost of the Drove thrust his Horns into his Back and carried him a 100 Paces into the Savannah where he fell down with his Guts trailing on the Ground The River Tondeloe is but narrow yet capable to receive Barks of 50 or 60 Tuns there is a Bar at the Entrance and the Channel crooked On the West side of the Bar there is a spit of Sand shoots out therefore to avoid it at your coming in you must keep the East side aboard but when once entred you may run up for two or three Leagues on the East side a quarter of a Mile within the Mouth you may lie secure but all this Coast and especially this River intolerably swarms with Musketoes that there is no sleeping for them About 4 or 5 Leagues from the Mouth this River is fordable and there the Road crosses it where two French Canoas that lay in this River intercepted the Caravan of Mules laden with Cacao that was returning to La Vera Cruz taking away as much as they could carry with them From Tondeloe River to the River of Guasickwalp is 8 Leagues more the Coast still West all along sandy Bay and sand-Hills as between St. Anns and Tondeloe only towards the West part the Bank is lower and the Trees higher This is one of the Principal Rivers of this Coast 't is not half the breadth of the Tobasco River but deeper It s Bar is less dangerous than any on this Coast having 14 foot Water on it and but little Sea Within the Bar there is much more and soft Oasie ground The Banks on both sides are low The East side is woody and the West side Savannah Here are some Cattle but since it has been frequented by Privateers the Spaniards have driven most of their Bullocks from hence farther into the Country This River hath its rise near the South Sea and is Navigable a great way into Land especially with Boats or small Barks The River Teguantapeque that falls into the South Seas hath its Origine near the Head of Guasickwalp and it is reported that the first Naval Stores for the Manila Ships were sent through the Country from the North to the South Seas by the conveniency of these two Rivers whose Heads are not above 10 or 12 Leagues asunder I heard this discoursed by the Privateers long before I visited the South Seas and they seemed sometimes minded to try their Fortunes this way supposing as many do still that the South Sea shore is nothing but Gold and Silver But how grosly they are mistaken I have satisfied the World already And for this part of the Country though it is rich in Land yet it has not the least appearance of any Mine neither is it thick inhabited with Spaniards And if I am not deceived the very Indians in the heart of the Country are scarce their Friends The Town of note on the S. Sea is Teguantapeque and on the N. Seas Keyhooca is the chiefest near this River Besides these two the Country is only inhabited by Indians
till we were against the Rivers Mouth then we tackt and by the help of the Current that came out of the River we were neer a mile to Wind-ward of them all then we made Sail to assist our Consort who was hard put to it but on our approach the Toro edged away toward the shore as did all the rest and stood away for Alvarado and we glad of the Deliverance went away to the Eastward and visited all the Rivers in our return again to Trist And searched the Bays for Munjack to carry with us for the Ships use as we had done before for the use both of Ships and Canoa's Munjack is a sort of Pitch or Bitumen which we find in lumps from three or four pounds to thirty pounds in a lump washed up by the Sea and left dry on all the Sandy-Bays on all this Coast It is in substance like Pitch but Blacker it melts by the heat of the Sun and runs abroad as Pitch would do if exposed as this is on the the Bays The smell of it is not so pleasant as Pitch neither does it stick so firmly as Pitch but is apt to peel off from the Seams or Ships Bottom however we find it very useful here where we want Pitch and because it is commonly mixed with Sand by lying on the Bayes we melt it and refine it very well before we use it and commonly temper it with Oyl or Tallow to correct it for though it melts by the heat of the Sun yet it is of a harsher nature than Pitch I did never find the like in any other part of the World neither can I tell from whence it comes And now the effects of the lateStorm being almost forgot the Lagune Men settled again to their Imployments and I among the rest fell to Work in the East Lagune where I remained till my Departure for Jamaica I will only add as to this Logwood-Trade in general that I take it to be one of the most profitable to England and it nearest resembles that of Newfoundland since what arises from both is the product of bare Labour and that the Persons imployed herein are supported by the produce of their Native Country It is not my Business to determine how far we might have a right of cutting Wood there but this I can say that the Spaniards never receive less Damage from the Persons who generally follow that Trade than when they are imployed upon that Work While I was here the last time Capt. Gibbs arriv'd in a Ship of about 100 Tuns and brought with him 20 stout New-England Indians that were taken in the Wars there designing to have sold them at Jamaica but not finding a good Market brought them hither to cut Logwood and hired one Mr. Richard Dawkins to be their Overseer who carried them to work at Summasenta But it so happened that about a Week after the Captain came thither in his Boat from One-Bush-Key where his Ship lay and the Overseer having some Business desired leave to be absent for two or three days But as soon as he and the Seamen were gone the Indians taking their opportunity killed the Capt. and marched off designing to return to their own Country by Land they were seen about a Month afterward and one of them was taken near the River Tondelo After I had spent about ten or twelve Months at the Logwood Trade and was grown pretty well acquainted with the way of Traffick here I left the Imployment yet with a design to return higher after I had been in England and accordingly went from hence with Captain Chambers of London bound to Jamaica We sailed from Trist the beginning of April 1678. and arrived at Jamaica in May where I remained a small time and then returned for England with Captain Loader of London I arrived there the beginning of August the same Year and at the beginning of the following year I set out again for Jamaica in order to have gone thence to Campeachy but it proved to be a Voyage round the World of which the Publick has already had an Account in my former Volume and the First Part of this FINIS Capt. Dampier HIS DISCOURSE OF THE Trade-Winds Breezes Storms Seasons of the Year Tides and Currents of the TORRID ZONE throughout the World A Scheme of the following Treatise In or near the Torrid Zone Trade-winds p. 1. True or General at Sea 2. Coasting Constant. 12 Shifting to Oblique points 17. Opposite points Monsoons in the E. Indies 21. Breezes Sea 26. Land General 28. Peculiar to some Coasts Summasenta-Winds 43. Cartagena-Breezes 44. Popogaios 46. Producing particular Effects Terrenos or hot Winds of Coromandel 47. Malabar 48 The Persian Gulf. 48 Harmatans or cold Terrenos of Guinea 49 Storms and their Presages In the West Indies Norths 60 and Chocolatta North 62. Souths of Jamaica 65 Campeachy 66 Hurricans of the Carribbe Islands 68 In the East Indies Tuffoons 71 72. Stormy Monsoons 72 and Elephanta 74 Seasons of the Year Dry Wet Tornadoes c. 76. Tides 90. Currents 100. An Account of the Countrey of Natal 108. A View of the General Coasting TRADE-Winds in the ATLANTICK INDIAN OCEANS Mr. Dampier's Voyages Vol. II. Part III. A Discourse of Winds Breezes Storms Tides and Currents CHAP. I. Of the General Trade-Wind The Introduction Of the General Trade-Wind at Sea Of the best time of the Year to cross the Equinoctial The Winds near the Line commonly uncertain and attended with Calms and Tornadoes A Reason of the Winds blowing South near the Line in the Atlantick Sea How Ships homeward-bound from the Bite of Guinea should cross the Line Of the Trade-Wind in the South Sea and in the East Indian Ocean I Shall reduce what I have to sayon this Subject to some general Heads beginning with the Trade-Winds as being the most remarkable Trade-Winds are such as do blow constantly from one Point or Quarter of the Compass and the Region of the World most peculiar to them is from about 30 d. North to 30 d. South of the Equator There are divers sorts of these Winds some blowing from East to West some from South to North others from West to East c. Some are constant in one Quarter all the Year some blow one half the Year one way and the other six Months quite contrary and others blow six Months one way and then shifting only eight or ten Points continue there six Months more and then return again to their former Stations as all these shifting Trade-Winds do and so as the Year comes about they alternately succeed each other in their proper Seasons There are other sorts call'd Sea-Winds and Land-Winds differing much from any of the former the one blowing by Day the other by Night constantly and regularly succeeding each other Within the torrid Zone also are violent Storms as fierce if not fiercer than any are in other Parts of the World And as to the Seasons of the Year I can distinguish
them there no other way than by Wet and Dry and these wet and dry Seasons do as successively follow each other as Winter and Summer do with us Here are also strong Currents sometimes setting one way sometimes another which though it is hard to describe with that Accuracy which is desirable yet I shall give as particular an Account of them as also of the several sorts of Winds as my own Observations and the Judicious Informations from others will afford me Matter to do Of the General Trade-Wind A View of the General Coasting TRADE-Winds in the great SOUTH OCEAN These general Trade-Winds are only in the Atlantick Ocean which parts Africa from America in the East Indian Ocean and in the Great South-Sea In all these Seas except just under or near the Line they constantly blow without Intermission as well to the South as to the North of the Equator but not with equal force at all Times nor in all Latitudes Neither do these constant Trade-Winds usually blow near the shoar but only in the Ocean at least 30 or 40 Leagues off at Sea clear from any Land especially on the West Coast or side of any Continent For indeed on the East side the Easterly Wind being the true Trade-Wind blows almost home to the shore so near as to receive a check from the Land-Wind and oft-times to admit of the Sea-Breez by which it is drawn from its Course frequently 4 or 5 Points of the Compass But of the Sea-Breez I shall speak in its place In some Places and particularly the South Seas in South Lat. the true Eastern Trade is not found to blow within 150 or near 200 Leagues of the Coast but in North Lat. in those Seas it comes within 30 or 40 Leagues distance of the Shore And this I shall give as a general Rule That in North Lat. these Winds are commonly at E. N. E. in South Lat. at E. S. E. When we go from England and are bound to the East or West Indies or to Guinea we commonly find these Winds in the Lat. of 30 d. sometimes sooner as in the Latitudes of 32 or 35. And it may so happen that we may meet with an Easterly Wind in 40 d. or go out of our own Channel with a North East Wind which sometimes also fails us not till we come into a true Trade-Wind but this is only accidental therefore is not the Wind that I speak of but between 32 and 28 I did never know nor hear that the true Trade-Wind failed If in coming from England we have a North Easterly Wind that brings us hither i. e. into the true Trade-Wind it sometimes stays at North East especially if we keep near the African Shore as Guinea Ships do till we are near the Tropick of Cancer and then comes to the E. N. E. where it settles but commonly it settles there in 28 d. if we are so far off Shore as to receive the true Trade When the Wind is thus settled we have commonly fair Weather and a clear Sky especially if the Sun is in any Southern Sign but if in a Northern Sign the Weather is usually cloudy On the contrary when we are in South Lat. in the Atlantick if the Sun is in Northern Signs the Sky is clear but if in Southern Signs the Sky is cloudy This I once experienced to my sorrow in my return from Bantam in the Year 1671. We had cloudy Weather and brisk Winds while we were crossing the East Indian Ocean and had a very good Passage also about the Cape of good Hope where we had fair clear Weather And steering from thence for the Island St. Hellena where we thought to Water and Refresh as all our English East India Ships do we mist it for want of an Observation For before we came to the Tropick of Capricorn the Sky was again clouded so that we seldom saw the Sun or Stars till we were quite past the Island However we found the Isle of Ascention where we struck two Turtle for this was not the laying time but the beginning of the Cooting or Ingendring Season therefore some few only were drawn hither This was the latter end of November From the time that we thought our selves to the West of St. Hellena we had our VVater measured out to us 2 Pints a Man per day till we came into our Channel This was the first time that I began to know the value of fresh VVater for we took in none in all our way home from Bantam But so much for this Digression The VVinds as I said before as we run to the Southward from England do first settle in the E. N. E. about the Lat. of 28 d. or be sure between that and 24 d. especially when the Sun is to the Southward of the Line but in May June and July you will find the VVinds at E. by S. or E. S. E. These VVinds whether we meet them to the North of the East or to the South of it we find blowing a moderate Gale from our first meeting them in 30 or 28 d. till we come to the Tropick there we find the Trade stronger It commonly blows a good Topsail-gale as we sail large And if we were to sail on a VVind our lower Sails would be enough These brisk Gales blow in the Atlantick Ocean and North of the Equator from the Lat. of 23 to 12 or 14 constantly between the E. N. E. and the E. But between 10 or 12 degrees and the Line they are not so fresh nor constant to that Point for in the Months of July and August the South VVinds do oft times blow even to 11 d. or 12 d. of North Lat. keeping between the S. S. E. and the S. S. VV. or S. VV. but in December and January the true Trade blows within 3 d. or 4 d. of the Equator And as the Sun returns again to the Northward so the Southerly VVinds do increase and draw more to the Northward of the Line till July and then gradually withdraw back again towards the Line VVhen the Sun is in Southern Signs 't is the best time of the Year to cross the Line if bound to the Southward for besides the benefit of the true Trade to bring a Ship near the Line the VVind is then more constant and fresh the VVeather clearer and the VVinds which at other times are between the S. S. E. and S. S. VV. are now at S. E. or S. E. and by E. but in our Summer Months we find nothing but Calms and Tornadoes and tho' Tornadoes do usually rise against the settled VVind yet but few Commanders will endeavour to take the Advantage of the VVinds that come from them but rather furl their Topsails hall up their Corses and lye still till the gust of Wind is past except necessity requires haste for these sudden Tornadoes do not continue long and besides often very violent and fierce so that a Ship with her sails loose would be
in danger to be over-set by them or at least lose Masts or Yards or have the Sails split besides the Consternation that all Men must needs be in at such a time especially if the Ship by any unforeseen accident should prove unruly as by the mistake of the Man at Helm or he that Conns or by her broaching too against all endeavours which often happens when a fierce gust comes which though it does not last long yet would do much damage in a short time and tho' all things should fall out well yet the benefit of it would not compensate the danger For 't is much if a Ship sails a Mile before either the VVind dyes wholly away or at least shifts about again to the South Nor are we sure that these VVinds will continue 3 Minutes before they shift and sometimes they fly round faster than the Ship will tho' the Helm lies for it and all Seamen know the danger of being taken a back in such VVeather But what has been spoken of the Southerly VVinds Calms and Tornadoes is to be understood of the East side of the Atlantick to as far VVest as the Longitude of 359 d. or thereabouts for farther VVesterly we find the VVinds commonly at S. E. even in crossing the Line and a very brisk gale 't is for that reason our experienced Guinea Commanders do keep to the Southward of the Line till they are about that Longitude Some run over nearer the American Shore before they cross the Line Our East India Commanders do also cross the Line coming from India near the American Coast and find brisk Gales at S. E. all the times of the Year but going to the Indies they steer away South from the Island St. Jago where they commonly VVater and meet the Winds in that Longitude But of this enough The Winds near the Line in the Indian Ocean and South Sea are different from this yet there the Winds are also Southerly and therefore different from what they are farther off for 2 d. or 3 d. on each side the Line the Winds are commonly very uncertain and oftentimes there are perfect Calms or at least very small Winds and some Tornadoes in the East Indian Sea In the South Seas near and under the Line the Winds are at South 130 Leagues off from the Shoar but how farther off I know not there the Winds are but small yet constant and the Weather clear from March till September but about Christmas there are Tornadoes yet in both the East Indian Sea and the South Sea the VVinds near or under the Line are often at South yet these Winds do not blow above 2 or 3 d. to the North or South of the Line except near some Land but in the Atlantick Sea as I have said before the South and South West Winds do sometimes blow even to 10 or 12 d. North of the Line And for the South Winds to blow constantly near the Line in the Atlantick between Cape Verd in Africa and C. Blunco in Brazil is no wonderful thing if a Man will but consider those Promontories that shoot out from the Continents on each side the Sea one on the North the other on the South side of the Equafor leaving but a small space clear for the VVinds to blow in where there is always a pretty brisk Gale especially on the American side And as within 2 or 3 d. of the Equator it is most subject to Calms and Tornadoes and small faint Breezes in other Seas not pend up as this is So this Sea except just in the very opening between both Promontories is much more subject to it than any other especially on the East side that is from the Bite or the Inland corner of the Coast of Guinea to 28 or 30 d. distance VVest But this seems not to be altogether the effects of the Line but owing partly to the nearness of the Land to the Line which shoots out from the Bite of Guinea even to Cape St. Anns almost in a parrallel with the Equator allowing for the Bays a bendings and this is 23 or 24 d. of Longitude and not above 80 Leagues from the Line in some Places So that this part of the Sea between the Coast of Guinea and the Line or 2 d. South of it lying as it were between the Land and the Line is seldom free from bad VVeather especially from April to September but when the Sun is withdrawn towards the Tropick of Capricorn then there is something better VVeather there And in the Sea under the Line between the African Promontory and the American it is freer from Tornadoes and Calms and more subject to fair VVeather and fresh Breezes Therefore both our English and Dutch East India Ships when outward-bound endeavour to Cross the Line as near as they can in the mid Channel between both Promontories and although they meet the VVinds sometimes at S. S. E. or at S. S. W. or farther Easterly or Westerly yet will they not run above a degree to the East or a degree to the West of the mid Channel before they tack again for fear of meeting with the soaking Current on the West or Calms on the East side either of which would be alike prejudicial to their Course The Portuguise in their Voyages to Brazil take the same method and get to the South of the Line before they fall in with the Land for fear of falling to leward of Cape St. Augustine for there are so many things which make that a difficult Cape to pass that hardly any Man would try to do it but at a distance But our Guinea Ships do generally pass on to their Ports on the Coast of Guinea at any time of the Year without using such methods because their Business lyes mostly on the North of the Line where they always find a fair Westerly Wind. But in their returns from thence they cross the Line and run 3 or 4 d. to the Southward of it where they meet the Wind between the S. S. E. and the S. S. W. and a brisk gale with this Wind they run away in the same parrallel 35 or 36 d. before they cross the Line again to the Northward which is about mid-way between the Extreams of both Promontories there they find a brisk gale which carries them to the West Indies or where they please Some run West 40 d. before they cross the Line and find strong Gales whereas should they come from Old Callabar or any other Place in the Bite on the North of the Line and steer away West thinking to gain their Passage the sooner because it is the nearest way they would doubtless be mistaken as many Men have been For if they keep near the Line they meet with great Calms and if they keep near the Land they meet with Westerly Winds and if they keep in the middle between both they must of necessity meet with both Inconveniencies as also with Tornadoes especially in May June July and
August By which means some Ships if they go any of these three ways now cautioned against spend more time in going from the Bite to Cape Verd than another Ship will do if it cross the Line in the right Places before mentioned in going to the Barbadoes Sometimes unexperienced Guinea Masters in their return from thence after they have cross'd the Line from N. to S. and are in a fair way to gain a speedy Passage will be so obstinate in their Opinions after they have run 26 28 or 30 d. West from Old Callabar with a fair Wind to steer away W. by N. or W. N. W. it being the directest Course they can steer for Barbadoes then they must of necessity keep within a degree of the Line while they are running 2 or 300 Leagues which may prove to be a long time in doing because of the uncertainty of the Winds near the Equator therefore they that cross it near the middle between both Promontories or near the American Coast when they are minded to fall away to the Northward steer away N. W. or N. W. by N. and so depress or raise a degree in running 28 Leagues at most therefore which is best they are but a short time near the Equator And besides in thus crossing it in the middle between both Promontories they seldom miss of a Wind for the Wind in these Seas has no other Passage but between these two Promontories What I have said already on this Head has been chiefly of the Atlantick and of that too mostly about the Line because it is the most difficult Place to pass in going to the Southward In other Seas as in the East Indian Sea and the Great South Sea there is no such difficulty to pass any way because there is Sea-room enough without coming into such Inconveniencies as we meet with in the Atlantick and as to the Winds between the Line and the Tropicks in the East Indian Sea and the South Sea they are in their Latitudes as I said before viz. in South Latitude at E. S. E. and in North Lat. at E. N. E. blowing constantly fresh Breezes especially in the South Seas even from within a degree or two of the Line on each side to the Tropick or to 30 degrees of Lat. And this I may truly say That neither the Atlantick nor the East Indian Seas have the true Trade-Winds so constant nor brisk at all times of the Year and in all Latitudes as they are here For being once got into the Trade I mean without the verge of the coasting Trade-Wind it blows a very brisk gale all over the Ocean Capt. Eaton experienced this in sailing from the Gallapagos Islands to the Ladrones In the latter end of the Year 1685. VVe had the like experience sailing from Cape Corientes to Guam the Year after as appears by my Journal of that Run in my Voyage round the World Chap. 10. Pag. 185. And as for the Wind to the Southward of the Line I had great Experience of it in my ramble there with Capt. Shearp and since that Capt. Davis in his return out of the South Sea had greater experience because he took his departure from the Gallapagos Islands also and steering W. S. W. from thence till he met the True Trade at E. S. E. he steered directly South clear from the Line till he got to the Southward of the Tropick of Capricorn and so quite without the Trade In the East Indian Sea between the Lat. of 30 d. and 4 degrees South of the Equator the true Breez is at E. S. E. or S. E. by E. yet not so constant nor brisk as in the South Seas besides that part of it which lyes to the Northward of the Line has not such a constant steady Breez but is more subject to Calms and near the shoar to shifting Winds according to the Seasons of the Year CHAP. II. Of the constant coasting Trade-Winds A Parallel of the South Part of Africa and Peru. The Trade-Winds blow with an acute Angle on any Coast. The Winds about Angola and in the South Seas alike as also at Mexico and Guinea The Winds shift not in some Places Sand blown from the Shoar about Cape Blanco in Guinea An Account of the Trade-Winds from thence to Cape Lopos THE Trade-Winds which blow on any Coast are either Constant or Shifting The Coasts that are subject to constant Trade-Winds are the South Coast of Africa and Peru and part of the Coast of Mexico and part of Guinea The South part of Africa and Peru are in one Lat. both Coasts trending North and South both on the West side of their Continents both in South Lat. and tho' they do not lye exactly parallel by Reason of some Capes or Bendings in the Land yet are the Winds much alike on both Coasts all the Year long On the Coast of Angola the Winds are between the S. W. and S. And on the Coast of Peru we reckon them between the S. S. W. and S. S. E. But this the Reader must take notice of That the Trade-Winds that blow on any Coast except the North Coast of Africa whether they are constant and blow all the Year or whether they are shifting Winds do never blow right in on the Shoar nor right along Shoar but go slanting making an accute Angle of about 22 degrees Therefore as the Lands trends more Easterly or Westerly from the North or South on these Coasts so the Winds do alter accordingly as for example Where the Land lies N. and S. the Wind would be at S. S. W. but where the Land lies S. S. W. the Trade would be at S. W. But if the Land lyes S. S. E. then the Wind would be at South This is supposed of Coasts lying on the West side of any Continent and on the South side of the Equator as the two Coasts of Africa and Peru are but the North part of Africa has the Trade blowing off from the shoar two or three Points These Southerly Winds do blow constantly all the Year long on both the Coasts of Peru and Africa they are brisk and blow farther off from the Coasts than any shifting Winds On the Coast of Peru these Winds blow 140 or 150 Leagues off Shore before you can perceive them to alter But then as you run farther off so the Wind will come about more Easterly and at about 200 Leagues distance it settles at E. S. E. which is the true Trade Between Angola and Brazil the Winds are much as they are in the South Seas on the West side of the Peruvian Coast only near the Line within 4 degrees of it in South Lat. the Wind holds in the S. S. W. or S. W. for 28 or 30 d. of Longitude and so it may in the same Lat. in the South Seas for ought I know for it was at South as far as any of us were which was near 200 Leagues As the Coasts of Peru and Angola have their constant
North of the Line and the Monsoons on the South of the Line is that in April when the West Monsoon sets in to the North of the Line the S. S. W. Winds sets in to the South of the Line and is called the S. S. W. Monsoon And in September when the East Monsoon sets in to the North of the Line the N. N. E. Wind blows in South Lat. and is called the N. N. E. Monsoon And whereas the West Monsoon is accompanied with Tornadoes and Rain in North Lat. the S. S. W. Monsoon which blows at the same time in South Lat. is accompanied with fair Weather And as the East Monsoon is attended with fair Weather in North Lat. the N. N. E. Monsoon which blows at the same time in South Lat. is attended with Tornadoes and very bad Weather And though these Winds do not shift exactly at one time in all Years yet Sept. and Apr. are always accounted the turning Months and do commonly participate of both sorts of Winds For these Monsoons do as constantly shift by turns as the Year comes about And by means of this change of Wind Ships have the benefit to sail from one part of India with one Wind and return with the contrary So that most of the Navigation in India depends on the Monsoons And Ships do constantly wait for these Changes and the Merchants fit out to any Place according as the Season of the Year draws on And wheresoever they go they certainly dispatch their business so as to return back again with the next or contrary Monsoon For here is no sailing to and from any Place but with the Monsoon One carries them out the other brings them back Neither do I know how it were possible for Merchants in these Parts to Trade by Sea from one Country to another were it not for these shifting Monsoons For as I have said before most of the Trading Kingdoms in India do lye between the Line and the Tropick of Cancer And the Land lies so to the North that Ships cannot go to the North of the Tropick and by that means get into a variable Winds way as they may and do in the West Indies when they are bound far to the Eastward Neither could it be any advantage to stand off to Sea as they may in the South Sea for that would be of little moment because they would then come so near the Line that they would be always lyable to Tornadoes and Calms And should they cross the Line and run to the Southward of it thinking that way to gain their Passage it is likely they might succeed no better there For that part of the Sea which lies to the Southward of the Line is open and free to the true Trade which seldom fails But indeed that VVind would carry them to the Southward quite beyond the Trade into a variable Winds-way But the Sea is not open there for Ships to pass so far to the Eastward as to gain their Ports For our East India Ships that are bound to Siam Tunqueen China c. cannot get thither but in the Season of the West Monsoon though they go directly from England and though after they are past the Cape they have the convenience to stretch to the Eastward as far as the Land will permit yet they cannot go so far as is convenient before they will be obliged to steer down within the Course of the Trade-Winds which would obstruct their Passage if they were as constant here as in other Places And therefore if these Anniversary Monsoons did not constantly succeed each other Ships could not pass but one way they might sail to the Westward but there they must lye up or be 3 or 4 Years in their return from a place which may be sailed in 6 Weeks yet I say that to Places near each other Ships may and do very often sail against the Monsoon and that with success For here are Sea and Land Breezes under the shore and in many Places good Anchoring by which means Ships may stop when they find the Current against them But Voyages of a great distance cannot be made only with Land and Sea-Winds without some other helps In the W. Indies we have these helps of Land-Winds and Sea-Breezes by which we sail from one place to another provided they are no great distance a sunder and perform our Voyages well enough but when we are to sail a great way to the Eastward against the Trade-Wind then we are forced as is said before either to pass thro' the Gulph of Florida if we are far to Leeward or else to pass between the Islands and so stretch away to the Northward till we are clear out of the Trade and so get our Longitude that way So in the South Seas also and on the Coasts of Guinea the Coast of Brazil and the Coast of Africa between the Cape of good Hope and the Red-Sea there are Sea and Land Breezes which may be made use of to sail against the Trade if the Voyages be short But when we are to sail a great way against the Trade-Wind we must not wholly depend on the Sea and Land Breezes for then we should be a long time in accomplishing such Voyages In such Cases we have recourse to other helps such as Providence has supplied these Seas with which seems to be wanting in the East Indies as for example in the South Seas on the Coast of Peru where the Southerly Winds blow constantly all the Year there Ships that are bound to the Southward stretch off to the Westward till they are out of the Coasting Trade-Wind and there meet with the true Trade at E. S. E. with which they sail as far as they please to the Southward and then steer in for their Port. So on the Coast of Mexico where the Coasting Trade is Westerly there they run off to Sea till they meet the true E. N. E. Trade and then stretch away to the Northward as far as their Port and Ships that come from the Philipines bound for the Coast of Mexico stretch away to the North as far as 40 degrees to get a Wind to bring them on the Coast. Thus also all Ships bound to the East Indies after they are past the Line in the Atlantick Ocean stretch away to the Southward beyond the Trade and then stand over to the Eastward towards the Cape so in returning home after they have crost the Line to the Northward they steer away North with the Wind at E. N. E. till they are to the Northward of the Trade-Wind and then direct their Course Easterly All Guinea Ships and West India Ships do the same in their returns And this is the Benefit of an open Sea But to return The Monsoones among the East India Islands that lye to the Southward of the Line as I said before are either at N. N. E. or S. S. W. These also keep time and shift as the Monsoones do to the North of
the Line in the Months of April and September but near the Line as a degree or two on each side the Winds are not so constant Indeed there they are so very uncertain that I cannot be particular so as to give any true Account of them Only this I know that Calms are very frequent there as also Tornadoes and sudden Gusts in which the Winds fly in a moment quite round the Compass CHAP. IV. Of Sea and Land-Breezes How Sea-Breezes differ from Common Trade-Winds The time and manner of their Rise And particularly at Jamaica Of the Land-Breezes The time and manner of their Rise As on the Isthmus of Darien and at Jamaica The places where these Winds blow strongest or slackest as at Gapes and Head Lands deep Bays Lagunes and Islands Seals-Skin Bladders used instead of Bark Loggs SEA-Breezes generally speaking are no other than the Common Trade-Wind of the Coasts on which they blow with this difference that whereas all Trade-Winds whether they are those that I call the general Trade-Winds at Sea or coasting Trade-Winds either constant or shifting do blow as well by Night as by Day with an equal briskness except when Tornadoes happen So contrarily Sea-Winds are only in the Day and cease in the Night and as all Trade-Winds blow constantly near to one Point of the Compass both where the constant Trade-Winds are or where they shift on the contrary these Sea-Winds do differ from them in this that in the Morning when they first spring up they blow commonly as the Trade-Winds on the Coast do at or near the same Point of the Compass but about Mid-Day they fly off 2 3 or 4 Points further from the Land and so blow almost right in on the Coast especially in fair Weather for then the Sea-Breezes are truest as for instance on the Coast of Angola the Land lies almost North and South there the Trade-Wind is from the S. S. W. to the S. W. the true Sea Breezes near the shore are at W. by S. or W. S. W. and so of any other Coast. These Sea-Breezes do commonly rise in the Morning about Nine a Clock sometimes sooner sometimes later they first approach the shore so gently as if they were afraid to come near it and oft-times they make some faint breathings and as if not willing to offend they make a halt and seem ready to retire I have waited many a time both ashore to receive the pleasure and at Sea to take the benefit of it It comes in a fine small black Curle upon the Water whenas all the Sea between it and the shore not yet reach'd by it is as smooth and even as Glass in Comparison in half an Hour's time after it has reached the shore it fans pretty briskly and so increaseth gradually till 12 a Clock then it is commonly strongest and lasts so till 2 or 3 a very brisk gale about 12 at Noon it also veres off to Sea 2 or 3 Points or more in very fair Weather After 3 a Clock it begins to dye away again and gradually withdraws its force till all is spent and about 5 a Clock sooner or later according as the Weather is it is lull'd asleep and comes no more till the next Morning These Winds are as constantly expected as the day in their proper Latitudes and seldom fail but in the wet Season On all Coasts of the main whether in the East or West Indies or Guinea they rise in the Morning and withdraw towards the Evening yet Capes and Head Lands have the greatest benefit of them where they are highest rise earlier and blow later Bays contrarily have the disadvantage for there they blow but faintly at best and their continuance is but short Islands that lye nearest East and West have the benefit of these Winds on both sides equally for if the Wind is at S. W. or S. W. by S. on the South side of any Island then on the North side it would be at N. W. or N. W. by N. i. e. in fair Weather but if turbulent Weather it would be E. S. E. on the Southside and E. N. E. on the other But this true Sea-Breeze does not veer so far out except only near the shore as about 3 or 4. Leagues distant for farther than that you will find only the right Coasting Trade-Wind This I have experienced in several Parts of the World particularly at Jamaica about which I have made many Voyages both on the North and the South side where I have experienced the Sea-Breezes very much to differ for on the South side I have found the true Sea-Wind after 12 a Clock and in very fair Weather at S. or S. S. E. though it sprung up in the Morning at E. S. E. or S. E. And on the North side I have found the Sea-Breez at N. or N. N. E. though it rose in the Morning at E. N. E. but whether there may be the like difference about smaller Islands as at Barbadoes c. I cannot determine tho' I am apt to believe there is not So much for the Sea-Winds next of the Land-Breezes Land-Breezes are as remarkable as any Winds that I have yet treated of they are quite contrary to the Sea-Breezes for those blow right from the shore but the Sea-Breez right in upon the shore And as the Sea-Breezes do blow in the Day and rest in the Night so on the contrary these do blow in the Night and rest in the Day and so they do alternately succeed each other For when the Sea-Breezes have performed their Offices of the Day by breathing on their respective Coasts they in the Evening do either withdraw from the Coast or lye down to rest Then the Land-Winds whose Office it is to breathe in the Night moved by the same order of Divine Impulse do rouze out of their private recesses and gently fan the Air till the next Morning and then their task ends and they leave the Stage There can be no proper time set when they do begin in the Evening or when they retire in the Morning for they do not keep to an hour but they commonly spring up between 6 and 12 in the Evening and last till 6 8 or 10 in the Morning They both come and go away again earlier or later according to the Weather the Season of the Year or some accidental Cause from the Land For on some Coasts they do rise earlier blow fresher and remain later than on other Coasts as I shall shew hereafter They are called Land-Winds because they blow off shore contrary to the Sea-Breez which way soever the Coast lies Yet I would not so be understood as if these Winds are only found to breathe near the shores of any Land and not in the Inland Parts of such Countries remote from the Sea for in my Travells I have found them in the very heart of the Countries that I have passed through as particularly on the Isthmus of Darien and the Island of Jamaica Both
which places I have travelled over from Sea to Sea yet because these are but small Tracts of Land in comparison with the two main Bodies of Land of Mexico and Peru and those vast Regions in Asia and Africa lying within the Tropicks I cannot determine whether the Land-Winds are there as I have found them in my small Travels therefore I shall only confine this particular Discourse to these and other Places within my own Observations I shall begin first with the Isthmus of Darien there I have found the Land-Winds in the middle of the Country blowing all Night and till 10 or 11 a Clock in the Morning before I could perceive the Sea-Breeze to arise and that not discernable many times but by the flying of the Clouds especially if I was in a Valley and it was in Vallies that I did chiefly perceive the Land-Winds which blew in some places one way in others contrary or side ways to that according as the Vallies lay pend up between the Mountains and that without any respect to either the North or the South Seas but indeed near either side of the Land they always bent their course towards the nearest Sea unless there was any Hill between them and the Sea and then they took their Course along in the Vallies but from both shores as well from the North as the South they blow right forth into the Sea In the Island of Jamaica these Land-Winds are in the middle of the Country also I have found them so as I travelled from one side of the Island to the other having lain 2 Nights by the way as I had before observed them when I liv'd at 16 Miles Walk where I continued about 6 Months but there and in other Islands the Land-Winds do blow towards the nearest shores and so from thence off to Sea whether the shore's lye East West North or South These Winds blow off to Sea a greater or less distance according as the Coast lies more or less exposed to the Sea-Winds For in some Places we find them brisk 3 or 4 Leagues off shore in other Places not so many Miles and in some Places they scarce peep without the Rocks or if they do sometimes in very fair Weather make a sally out a Mile or 2 they are not lasting but suddenly vanish away though yet there are every Night as fresh Land-Winds ashore at those Places as in any other part of the World Places most remarkable for the fewest or faintest Land-Winds are those that lye most open to the Common Trade-Winds as the East ends of any Islands where the Trade-Winds do blow in upon the Shore or the Head-Lands on Islands or Continents that are open to the Sea-Breez especially where the Trade-Wind blows down side-ways by the Coast for there such Head-Lands as stretch farthest out to Sea are most exposed to Winds from the Sea and have the less benefit of the Land-Breezes I shall give a few Instances of either And first of all begin with the N. E. and S. E. Points of the Island of Jamaica These Points are at the East end of the Island one is at the very Extreme of the North side towards the East the other on the South Extreme towards the same Point at these two Places we seldom light of a Land-Wind nor very often at the end of the Island between them except near the shore For that Reason the Sloop-men of Jamaica that Trade round the Island are commonly put to their Trumps when they come there in their Voyages For if they meet no Land-Wind they are obliged to beat about by turning to wind-ward against the Sea-Breez in the Day time they then curse these Points of Land and are foolishly apt to believe that some Daemon haunts there And if they are 2 or 3 Days in beating about as sometimes they are when they return to Port Royal they will talk as much of their Fatigues as if they had been beating a Month to double the Cape of good Hope though indeed the Men are brisk enough and manage their sloops very well which also are generally very good Boats to sail on a Wind. I think they are the best small Trading-Boats in the King's Dominions Point Pedro on the South-side of the Island is another very bad Point to double if a Ship come from the West-end of the Island This Point runs out far into the Sea and is not only destitute of the Common Land-Winds But if there is any Current setting to Leeward here the Sloop-men meet it Therefore they are many times longer beating about it then about the two former Points of the South East and the North East and not without bestowing some Curses upon it Nay some Captains of Privateers when they have been beating about it have stood close in to the Point and fired their Guns to kill the old Daemon that they say inhabits there to disturb poor Seamen I have related these odd Passages to shew how ignorant Men are that cannot see the Reason of it And because I am not willing to leave my Reader in the dark I shall give a few Instances more on this subject The North side of Jucatan at the entrance into the Bay of Campeachy gives us another Instance of bad Land-Winds and commonly where the Land-Winds are scanty the Sea-Breezes are but indifferent neither This will partly appear by what I have observed of them on this Coast between Cape Catoach and Cape Condeseado at the entrance of the Bay of Campeachey which two places are about Eighty Leagues distant for there the Land trends East and West It is a streight Coast and lies all of it equally exposed to the Trade-VVind which is commonly there at E. N. E. To the W. of these Places the Sea and Land-VVinds do as duly succeed each other as on any other Coast but here they are each of them of a Bastard kind for the Sea-Breezes are at N. E. by E. which is no better than a Coast Trade-VVind and the Land-VVind is at E. S. E. or S. E. by E. whereas if the VVinds were as true there as on other Coasts the Sea-Breez would be at N. N. E. sometimes at N. and the Land-VVinds would be at S. S. E. and S. as they are indeed close under the shore which if they do at any time come off from they are very faint The Land on this Coast is low and even and the Land-VVinds ashore are pretty brisk The Capes on the Peruvian Coast in the South Seas will more fully make it appear that Head-Lands do seldom afford any Land-VVinds I shall only Instance in Cape Passao in Lat. 8 Minutes South Cape St. Laurence in Lat. 1 d. South and Cape Blanco in 3 d. South I have pass'd by them all several times and at different Seasons yet did never find any Land-winds there though between these Places there are very good Land-winds Therefore Ships that sail to the Southward against the Breez must beat it about by hard Labour
especially about Cape Blanco for that lyes more exposed than the other 2 and if there is any Current as commonly the Spaniards are a long time getting about sometimes a Fortnight or 3 VVeeks and when they have split their Sails which are seldom very good they run back to Guiaquill to mend them again We found it hard getting about tho' our Sails were good and I think we could work our Ships better than the Spaniards are ever able to do in those Seas I have already given several Instances of such Places as have no Land-VVinds or at least but very ordinary ones I shall next proceed in order to shew where the strongest or best Land-VVinds are met with and then I shall speak of those Places where there blows a moderate and indifferent Gale between both Extreams That so any one may judge by the Lying of the Land whether it may afford a good Land-wind or no. The briskest Land-winds are commonly in deep Bays in great Lakes within Land and among great Ranges of Islands or small Keys that lye near the shore I shall give Instances of all these And as for Bays I shall first pitch on the Bay of Campeachy which lies between Cape Condecedo and the high-High-Land of St. Martin between both these Places the Land-winds are as brisk 2 or 3 Leagues off at Sea as in any Place that I know In the Cod or Middle of the Bay the Land trends from East to VVest there the Sea-Breezes are at North and the Land-winds at South they commonly begin to blow at 7 or 8 a Clock in the Evening and continue till 8 or 9 the next Morning in the dry Season especially In that Bay there is an Island call'd by the English Beef-Island from the multitude of Bulls and Cows that inhabit it The smell of these wild Cattle is driven off to Sea by the Land-winds so fresh that by it Masters of Ships sailing in the Night on this Coast have known where they were and have presently anchored that Night and come into the Island of Trist the next Day whereas they would otherwise have past farther to the VVestward quite out of their way if they had not smell'd the strong scent of these Cattle So all the bottom of the Bay of Mexico even from the High-Land of St. Martin down to Lavera Cruz and from thence Northerly towards the River Meschasipi affords good Land-winds and Sea-breezes The Bay of Honduras also and almost all the Coast between it and Cape la Vela affords the like allowing for the Capes and Points of Land which lye between where it fails more or less as the Points do lye more or less exposed to the Sea-Breezes So in the South Seas the Bays of Panama Guiaquil Paita c. have their fresh Land-winds and Sea-breezes But in some Places as particularly at Paita the Land-winds do not spring up till 12 a Clock in the Night but then are always very fresh and last till 7 or 8 the next Morning and they are constant all the Year long VVhereas in the Bay of Panama and also in all the Bays and Coasts of the other or North side of America already described they are not so constant in the wet Season as they are in the dry The Bay of Campeachy will also afford us Instances of the Land-winds that blow in Lagunes As for instance the Lagune of Trist which is about 9 or 10 Leagues long and 3 broad is barricadoed from the Sea by the Island of Trist. There the Land-winds blow in the dry Season from 5 or 6 a Clock in the Evening till 9 or 10 in the Morning There are two other Lagunes lying within that and parted from it by low Mangrove-Land there the Land-winds are fresher and the Sea-Breeze duller and of a less continuance than in the Lagune of Trist. Nay sometimes the Land-wind blows all Day so in the Lagune of Maracaybo to VVind-ward of Cape Alta Vela the Land-winds are very fresh and lasting The like may be said of the Lagune of Venizuella or Comana Sometimes in the fore-mentioned Lagunes the Land-winds do blow for 3 or 4 Days and Nights together scarce suffering the Sea-Breez to breath there though at the same time the Sea-Breez may blow fresh out at Sea and if the Sea-Breez at such times should make a bold Sally into these Lagunes it would be but of a short continuance On the other hand at Capes and Head-Lands more exposed to Sea-Breezes the Land-winds are shier of coming there than the Sea-winds are into Lagunes Neither may we forget the Harbour of Jamaica for there are very good Land-winds It is compassed in on one side with a long Neck of Sand and many small Islands at the mouth of it and within there is a pretty deep Lake in which are constant Sea and Land-winds by which the VVherry-men run with full sail both to Legamy or Passage-Fort from the Town and back again They go away with the Sea-Breez and return with the Land-wind There fore Passengers that have occasion to go either way wait for the coming of these VVinds except their Business requires hast for then they are rowed against the Breez and though the Land-winds do sometimes fail or come very late yet the VVherries seldom stay beyond their constant Hours of 7 or 8 a Clock and sometimes the Land-winds do come by 3 or 4 but when they come so early it is commonly after a Tornado from the Land This may suffice as to the Land-winds in Lakes or Bays As to what may be spoken concerning the Land-winds among Islands I shall only mention 2 Places both of them in the West Indies the first are the Keys of Cuba which are abundance of small Islands bordering on the South side of Cuba reaching in length from East to VVest or near those Points as the Island lies about 70 Leagues and in some Places reaching near 20 Leagues from the said Island Among these Islands even from the outermost of them quite home to Cuba there are very brisk Land-winds They spring up early in the Evening and blow late in the Morning The Jamaica Turtlers visit these Keys with good success for Turtle all the Year long and from thence bring most of their Turtle wherewith the Market of Port-Royal is served The other Islands I shall mention are the Sambaloe Islands betwixt Cape Samblass and Golden Island though they are not so large a Range as the Keys of Cuba yet do they afford very good Land-winds near as good as the Keys of Cuba do And thus much for the Places where the best as well as where the scantiest or faintest Land-winds are found I shall next give some Instances of the Medium between both Extreams I have already shewn that Capes and such Head-Lands as lye out farthest from the rest of the shore are thereby most exposed to the Sea-winds and consequently the Land-winds are there much fainter than in other Places especially in deep Bays or Lagunes within Land or
of Hispaniola or Jamaica troubled with these fierce VVinds any nearer than half Channel over as was said before It has not been my fortune to have been on this Coast when these VVinds have blown yet I have had the Relation of it so often and from so many Persons that I am very well satisfied of the truth of it Nay it is so generally known among the Jamaica Seamen and Privateers that they call a Talkative Person in derision a Carthagena-Breeze I remember 2 or 3 Men that went by that Name and I knew them by no other tho' I was in the same Ship with them several Months Some of our English Frigots that have been sent to Jamaica have experienced these Breezes when the Governour has sent them upon business to that Coast For plying between Portobello and Carthagena when they have been within 10 Leagues of Carthagena they have met with the Sea Breez so strong that they have been forced to riff their Topsail which even then they could not maintain but have been obliged to furle it quite up and so with only their lower Sails which sometimes they have been forced to riff too have been beating 8 or 10 Days to get only so many Leagues which tho' at last they have done yet has it been with much trouble and not without damage to their Sails and Rigging Neither can I forget a Squadron of French Frigots Commanded by the Count de Estrees that came to Jamaica and demanded leave of the Governour to VVood and VVater there which because it seemed strange that they should want in coming only from Petit Guavas it was demanded of them why they came from thence so ill provided They said they went from Petit Guavas over to the Coast of Carthagena with a design to have plyed to VVind-ward under that shore but met the Breezes so hard on the Coast that they were not able to hold up their sides against it and for that Reason stood back again towards Petit Guavas but not being able to setch it therefore they came to VVood and VVater at Jamaica designing to go from thence thro' the Gulph And tho' the Pilots of Jamaica did all conclude that the Breezetime was past by more than a Month yet the Governour gave them leave to VVood and VVater at Blewfields Bay and sent one Mr. Stone to be their Pilot thither This was in 1679. and in one of our Summer Months but I can't tell which tho' I was there In the South Seas on the Mexican Coast between Cape Blanco in the Lat. of 9D 56M North and Realeja in Lat. 11 North which two Places are about 80 Leagues distance there are VVinds which blow only in the Months of May June and July call'd by the Spaniards Popogaios They blow Night and Day without intermission sometimes 3 or 4 Days or a VVeek together They are very brisk VVinds but not violent I have been in one of them when we went from Caldera Bay bound to Realeja mentioned in my Voyage round the VVorld Chap. 5. Pag. 118. which blew at North. In the East Indies on the Coast of Coromandel there are VVinds call'd by the Portuguise Terrenos because they blow from the Land These are not those Land-Winds that I have already treated of for these blow only in June July and Aug. and are in several respects quite contrary to them For whereas the true Land-Winds blow only in the Night including Evenings and Mornings on the contrary these blow 3 or 4 Days without intermission nay sometimes a VVeek or 10 Days together and as the true Nocturnal Land-winds are very cold on the contrary these are the hottest of all VVinds I ever heard of They come with hot Blooms such as I have mentioned in my Voyage round the Word Chap. 20. Pag. 530. These Winds are at West and they blow only in the Months of June July and August which is the West Monsoon-Season tho' the proper Monsoon then on this Coast is S. VV. When these hot VVinds come the better sort of People at Fort St. George keep close They also shut up their VVindows and Doors to keep them out and I have heard Gentlemen that lived there say that when they have been thus shut up within Doors they have been sensible when the VVind shifted by the Change they have felt in their Bodies And notwithstanding that these VVinds are so hot yet the Inhabitants don't sweat while they last for their Skins are hard and rough as if they had been parched by the Fire especially their Faces and Hands yet does it not make them sick The Sands which are raised by these VVinds are a great annoyance to those whose business lyes abroad and who can't keep their Houses For many times they wheel about and raise the Sands so thick that it flies like smoak in Peoples Eyes and the Ships also that lie in the road at that time have their Decks covered with this Sand. On the Coast of Malabar they have of these sorts of VVinds also but not at the same time of the Year For as these on the Coast of Coromandel blow in the Months of June July and August when the West Monsoon Reigns on the contrary on the Malabar Coast they blow in the Months of December January and February when the East or North East Monsoon blows for then the Easterly VVind which is then the true Monsoon comes over from the Land of this Coast This being the West-side as the Coast of Coromandel is the East-side of this long East Indian Promontory The Persian Gulph is as remarkable for these hot VVinds as either of the former they come there in the Months of June July and August in the West Monsoon time and the heat there by all Accounts does by far exceed that on the other two Coasts The European Merchants that are employed in the Ports within the King of Persia his Dominions do leave their Coast Habitations and Business there during these hot Months and spend their time at Ispahan till the Air is more agreeable to their Bodies but their Servants must indure it And if any Ships are there then the Seamen also must do as well as they can 'T is reported the Commanders do keep Bathing-Troughs full of VVater to lye and wallow in and hide their Bodies from the noisom hot Blooms I was never in any of these hot Winds for I went from Fort St. George before they came on the Coast. On the Coast of Guinea there are a particular sort of Land-winds which are very remarkable not for their Heat as those last-mentioned but for their exceeding Cold and Searching Nature They are called Harmatans I have had an Acceâ—… of them from several who have Traded to Guinea but more especially from a very Sensible and Experienced Gentleman Mr. Greenhill Commissioner of His Majesties Navy at Portsmouth who upon my Request was pleased to send me the following 〈◊〉 count which the Reader cannot have better than in his own Words
as the Sun comes nearer the sky grows more cloudy and the Weather more moist for the Rains follow the Sun and begin on either side of the Equator within a little while after the Sun has crost the Equinox and so continue till after his return back again The wet Season on the North side of the Equator in the torrid Zone begins in April or May and so continues till September or October The dry Weather comes in November or December and continues till April or May. In South Latitudes the Weather changes at the same times but with this difference that the dry Months in South Latitude are wet Months in North Latitude and the contrary as I have said before Yet neither doe the wet or dry Seasons set in or go out exactly at one time in all Years neither are all places subject to wet or dry VVeather alike For in some places it rains less than in others and consequently there is more dry VVeather But generally Places that lye under the Line or near it have their greatest Rains in March and September Head-Lands or Coasts that lye most exposed to the Trade-winds have commonly the best share of dry Weather On the contrary deep Bays or bendings of the Land especially such as lye near the Line are most subject to Rains Yet even among Bays or Bendings there is a great deal of difference in the Weather as to dry or wet for the VVeather as well as the Winds seem to be much influenced by accidental Causes and those Causes themselves whatever they are seem to be subject to great variation But to proceed with Matter of Fact I shall begin with the dryest Coasts and first with that of Peru from 3 d. South to 30 d. South There it never Rains neither at Sea for a good distance off shore as for 250 or 300 Leagues no nor on the shore for a considerable way within Land though exactly how far I know not yet there are small Mists sometimes in a Morning for two or three Hours but seldom continuing after 10 a Clock and there are Dews also in the Night This Coast lyes N. and S. it has the Sea open to the VVest and a chain of very high Mountains running a long shore on the East the VVinds constantly Southerly as I said before in the second Chapter of VVinds. In which Head I have made a Comparison as well of the VVinds on the Coast of Africa in the same Latitude as of the lying of the Coasts Only there is this difference that the coasting Trade-winds on the American side do blow further from the Land than those on the African side VVhich difference may probably arise from the disproportion of the Mountains that are in the two Continents for 't is known that the Andes in America are some of the highest Mountains in the VVorld but whether there are any on the Continent of Africa in those Latitudes so high I know not I have not heard of any at least none such are visible to Seamen I come now to speak of the Weather on the African Coast which though 't is not so dry as the Coast of Peru yet is it the next to it The Weather there is very dry from March till October which is the dry Season The rainy Season which is from October till March is moderate without that excess that is in most other Places in those Latitudes so that the wettest Season can only be called so from some gentle showers of Rain There are some Tornadoes but not so many as are in any other Places both of the East or West Indies the Peruvian Coast excepted And if the height of the Andes are the cause that the true East Breez does not take place in the Pacifick Sea within 200 Leagues distance from the shore when yet the Trade blows within 40 Leagues of the African Coast that Coast may perphaps be supposed to want such high Mountains And if those American Mountains do stop the VVinds from their Career why may they not as well break the Clouds before they reach near the shore and be the cause of the dry VVeather there And seeing both Coasts do lye alike and the VVind is alike why should not the VVeather be the same were it not for the disproportion between the Mountains of these Coasts For the East side of those Mountains are supplied with Rain enough as may be known by the great Rivers that disembogue from thence into the Atlantick Sea whereas the Rivers on the South Sea-Coast are but very few and small some of which do wholly dry away for a good part of the Year But yet they constantly break-out again in their Seasons when the Rains in the Country do come which always fall on VVest side of those Mountains and this is about February As I have spoken before of dry Coasts so now I shall speak of rainy ones I shall begin with the Coast of Guinea from Cape Lopos which lies one degree South taking in the Bite or Bending of the Land and all the Coast VVest from thence as far as Cape Palmas This is a very wet Coast subject to violent Tornadoes and excessive Rains especially in July and August In those Months there is scarce any fait Day This Coast lies all of it very near the Equator and no where above 6 or 7 degrees distance so that from its nearness to the Equator only we might probably conjecture that it is a rainy Coast for most places lying near the Line are very subject to Rains yet some more than others and Guinea may be reckoned among the wettest Places in the World There may be Places where the Rains continue longer but none are more violent while they last And as its nearness to the Line may be a great cause of its moisture so by its situation also one would guess that it should be subject to a great deal of Rain because there is a great Bite or Bending in of the Land a little to the North of the Line and from thence the Land stretcheth West parallel with the Line And these Circumstances singly taken according to my observations do seldom fail but more especially where they both meet Yet there may be other causes that may hinder those Effects or at least serve to allay the violence of them as they do on some other Coasts I shall only instance in the opposite Coast of America between the North Cape which lies North of the Equator and Cape Blanco on Brazil in South Latitude Now this Land lyes much after the Form of the Coast of Guinea with this difference that one Coast lies in South Lat. the other lies North of the Equator both of these Promontories lay paralel with the Equator there 's not much difference in their distance from it but that which makes the difference is that one juts out Westward the other Eastward and so one is the very Westermost Land of the Continent of Africa the other is
this has commonly been nigh the shore and we have seen thick Clouds over the Land and much Thunder and Lightning and to our appearance there was more Rain there than we had and probably out farther off at Sea there might be still less for it was commonly pretty clear that way CHAP. VIII Of Tides and Currents The difference between Tides and Currents No place in the Ocean without Tides Where the Tides are greatest and where smallest Of the Tides in the Harbour and Lagunes of Trist in the Bay of Campeachy Of those between the Capes of Virginia The Tides in the Gulph of St. Michael and the River of Guiaquil in the South Sea A mistaken Opinion of a Subterranean Communication between the North and South Seas under the Isthmus of Darien Of the Tides at the Gallapagos Islands at Guam one of the Ladrones About Panama In the Gulph of Dulce and Necoya River on the Coast of Peru in the West Indies and at Tonqueen where and at New Holland they are very irregular A guess at the Reason of so great an irregularity Of the Tides between the Cape of Good Hope and the Red Sea Of Currents They are influenced by the Trade-Wind Instances of them at Berbadoes c. at Cape La Vela and Gratia de Dios. Cape Roman Isle Trinidado Surinam Cape Blanco between Africa and Brazil Of Counter Currents Of Currents in the Bay of Campeachy and of Mexico in the Gulph of Florida Of the Cacuses No strange thing for the surface of the Water to run Counter to its lower Parts Of the Currents on the Coast of Angola Eastward of the Cape of Good Hope On the Coast of India North of the Line And in the South Sea HAving treated of the Winds and Seasons of the Year in the torrid Zone I now come to speak of the Tides and Currents there And by the way Note That By Tides I mean Flowings and Ebbings of the Sea on or off from any Coast. Which property of the Sea seems to be Universal though not regularly alike on all Coasts neither as to Time nor the height of the Water By Currents I mean another Motion of the Sea which is different from Tides in several Respects both as to its Duration and also as to its Course Tides may be compar'd to the Sea Land-Breezes in respect to their keeping near the shore though indeed they alternately flow and ebb twice in 24 Hours Contrarily the Sea-Breezes blow on the shore by Day and the Land-Winds off from it in the Night yet they keep this Course as duly in a manner as the Tides do Neither are the Tides nor those Breezes far from the Land Currents may be compar'd to the Coasting Trade-Winds as keeping at some farther distance from the shore as the Trade-winds do and 't is probable they are much influenced by them 'T is a general belief especially among Seamen That the Tides are governed by the Moon That their Increase and Decrease as well as their diurnal Motions are influenced by that Planet though sometimes accidental Causes in the Winds may hinder the true regularity thereof We are taught as the first Rudiments of Navigation to shift our Tides i. e. to know the time of full Sea in any Place which indeed is very necessary to be known by all English Sailers because the Tides are more regular in our Channel than in other parts of the World But my subject being to speak of the Tides within or near the Tropick I leave those in places nearer England to be discoursed on by Coasters who are the only knowing Men in this Mystery They having by experience gained more knowledge in it than others and that is always the best Master I have not been on any Coast in the World but where the Tides have ebb'd and flow'd either more or less and this I have commonly observed that the greatest Indraughts of Rivers or Lagunes have commonly the strongest Tides Contrarily such Coasts as are least supplied with Rivers or Lakes have the weakest Tides at least they are not so perceptible Where there are great Indraughts either of Rivers or Lagunes and those Rivers or Lagunes are wide though the Tide runs very strong into the Mouths of such Rivers or Lagunes yet it does not flow so high as in such Places where the Rivers or Lakes are bounded in a narrow Room though the Tides do run of an equal strength at the Mouths or Entrances of either Neither do the Tides flow so much on or about Islands remote from the Main Land as they do on the Coasts of it I shall first give some Instances of these general Observations and then proceed to Particulars The Places that I shall mention shall be such as I have been in my self and where I have made the Observations before-mentioned I shall begin with the Lagune of Trist in the Bay of Campeachy This Place is very remarkable in that it has two Mouths of a considerable bigness the one is about a Mile and half Wide and about two Mile through before you come to a Lagune which is seven or eight Leagues long and three wide The other Mouth is 7 Leagues from it and is about 2 Miles and half or 3 Miles wide and about 2 Miles long before it opens into the Lagune Besides farther within Land there are 3 or 4 more Lagunes less than the former The Tides that flow or ebb in all the Lagunes pass in or out at the two Mouths before-mentioned which makes them run very swift insomuch that the Spaniards have named that Great Lagune Laguna Termina or the Lake of Tides because the Tides are so very strong in those two Mouths Yet though the Tides do run so swift at the Mouths of the Lagune they do not rise in height proportionable to that swiftness for the greatest Tides here do not rise and fall above 6 or 7 Foot except forced by extraordinary Causes as Storms or the like Of which I have spoken before I could also instance in the Channel between the 2 Capes of Virginia where the Tides do run very swift yet the Floods and Ebbs are not proportionable to the swiftness of the Tide between the Capes There are not indeed such Lagunes as at Trist in the Bay of Campeachy but there are many wide Rivers and abundance of smaller Creeks Besides in some places there is low Land which is over-flown by the Tides so that all the Water that runs in with such swiftness within the Capes is insensibly swallowed up there These are instances of strong Tides occasioned by great Indraughts yet where there is but little rising and falling of the Water in comparison with the strength of the Tides at the Mouths of those Indraughts I shall next give some Instances of the great Indraughts where the Tides flow and ebb much more more than in the former Places though the Tide at the Mouths of those Indraughts does not run swifter than in those Places before-mentioned I shall
it as I received it from my ingenious Friend Capt. Rogers who is lately gone to that Place and hath been there several times before THE Country of Natal takes up about 3 d. and half of Lat. from N. to S. lying between the lat of 31 d. 30 m. South and 28 S. 'T is bounded on the S. by a Country inhabited by a small Nation of Savage People called by our English Wild-bush-Men that live in Caves and in holes of Rocks and have no other Houses but such as are formed by Nature They are of a low stature tauny colour'd with crisped Hair They are accounted very cruel to their Enemies Their Weapons are Bows and poisoned Arrows These People have for their Neighbours on the S. the Hottantots Dellagoa is a Navigable River in Lat. 28 S. that bounds Natal on the N. The Inhabitants of this River have a Commerce with the Portuguese of Mozambique who oft visit them in small Barks and trade there for Elephants Teeth of which they have great plenty Some English too have lately been there to purchase Teeth particularly Capt. Freak just mentioned in my former Volume Ch. 23. P. 510. who after he had been in the River of Dellagoa and purchased 8 or 10 Tun of Teeth lost his Ship on a Rock near Madagascar The Country of Natal lies open to the Indian Sea on the East but how far back it runs to the Westward is not yet known That part of the Country which respects the Sea is plain Champion and Woody but within Land it appears more uneven by Reason of many Hills which rise in unequal Heights above each other Yet is it interlaced with pleasant Valleys and large Plains and 't is checker'd with Natural Groves and Savannahs Neither is there any want of Water for every Hill affords little Brooks which glide down several ways some of which after several turnings and windings meet by degrees and make up the River of Natal which dischargeth it self into the East Indian Ocean in the lat of 30 d. South There it opens pretty wide and is deep enough for small Vessels But at the Mouth of the River is a Bar which has not above 10 or 11 foot Water on it in a Spring-Tide Though within there is Water enough This River is the principal of the Country of Natal and has been lately frequented by some of our English Ships particularly by a small Vessel that Capt. Rogers formerly mentioned commanded There are also other Streams and Rivers which bend their Courses Northerly especially one of a considerable bigness about a â—…00 Mile within Land and which runs due North. The Woods are composed of divers sorts of Trees many of which are very good Timber and fit for any uses they being tall and large The Savannahs also are cloathed with kindly thick Grass The Land-Animals of this Country are Lyons Tigers Elephants Buffaloes Bullocks Deer Hogs Conies c. Here are also abundance of Sea-Horses Buffaloes and Bullocks only are kept tame but the rest are all wild Elephants are so plenty here that they feed together in great Troops 1000 or 1500 in a Company Mornings and Evenings they are seen grazing in the Savannahs but in the heat of the day they retire into the Woods and they are very peaceable if not molested Deer are very numerous here also They feed quietly in the Savannahs among the tame Cattle for they are seldom disturbed by the Natives Here are Fowls of divers sorts some such as we have in England viz. Duck and Teal both tame and wild and plenty of Cocks and Hens Besides abundance of will Birds wholly unknown to us Here are a sort of large Fowls as big as a Peacock which have many fine coloured Feathers They are very rare and shy There are other like Curlews but bigger The flesh of these is black yet sweet and wholesom Meat The Sea and Rivers also do abound in Fish of divers sorts yet the Natives do but seldom endeavour to take any except Tortoises and that is chiefly when they come ashore in the Night to lay their Eggs. Though they have also another very odd way which they sometimes make use of to catch Turtle or Tortoises They take a living sucking Fish or Remora and fastning a couple of strings to it one at the head and the other at the tail they let the sucking Fish down into the Water on the Turtle Ground among the half-grown or young Turtle and when they find that the Fish hath fastned himself to the back of a Turtle as he will soon do they then draw him and the Turtle up together This way of Fishing as I have heard is also used at Madagascar The Natives of this Covntry are but of a middle Stature yet have very good Limbs The Colour of their Skins is black their Hair crisped they are oval visaged their Noses neither flat nor high but very well proportioned their Teeth are white and their Aspect is altogether graceful They are nimble People but very lazy which probably is for want of Commerce Their chief Employment is Husbandry They have a great many Bulls and Cows which they carefully look after for every Man knows his own though they run all promisucously together in their Savannahs yet they have Pens near their own Houses where they make them gentle and bring them to the Pail They also plant Corn and fence in their Fields to keep out all Cattle as well tame as wild They have Guinea Corn which is their Bread and a small sort of Grain no bigger than Mustard-seed with which they make their drink Here are no Arts nor Trades profess'd among them but every one makes for himself such necessaries as Need or Ornament requires the Men keeping to their Employment and the Women to theirs The Men build Houses Hunt Plant and do what is to be done abroad And the Women milk the Cows dress the Victuals c. and manage all Matters within Doors Their Houses are not great nor richly furuished but they are made close and well thatched that neither Winds nor Weather can hurt them They wear but few Cloaths and those extraordinary mean The Men go in a manner naked their common Garb being only a square piece of Cloath made with Silk Grass or Moho Rind and wrought in form of a short Apron At the upper corners it has two straps to tye round their Wastes and the lower end being finely fringed with the same hangs down to their Knees They have Caps made with Beef Tallow of about 9 or 10 Inches high They are a great while a making these Caps for the Tallow must be made very pure before 't is fit for this use Besides they lay on but a little at a time and mixt it finely among the Hair and so it never afterwards comes off their heads When they go a Hunting which is but seldom they pare off 3 or 4 Inches from the top of it that so it may sit the snugger but the next