was so named by the Spaniards after Sir Francis Drake took the Caoafoga a Ship chiefly laden with Plate which they say he brought hither and divided it here with his Men. It is about 4 mile long and a mile and half broad and of a good heighth It is bounded with high steep Cliffs clear round only at one place on the East side The top of it is flat and even the Soil sandy and dry the Trees it produceth are but small bodied low and grow thin and there are only 3 or 4 sorts of Trees all unknown to us I observed they were much overgrown with long Moss There is good Grass especially in the beginning of the year There is no Water on this Island but at one place on the East side close by the Sea there it drills slowly down from the Rocks where it may be received into Vessels There was plenty of Goats but they are now all destroyed There is no other sort of Land Animal that I did ever see here are plenty of Boobies and Men of War Birds The anchoring place is on the East side near the middle of the Island close by the shore within two Cables lengths of the sandy Bay there is about 18 or 20 fathom good fast oazy ground and smooth Water for the S. E. point of the Island shelters from the South Winds which constantly blow here From the S. E. point there strikes out a small shole a quarter of a mile into the Sea where there is commonly a great Riplin or working of short Waves during all the Flood The Tide runs pretty strong the Flood to the South and the Ebb to the North. There is good landing on the Sandy Bay against the anchoring place from whence you may go up into the Island and at no place besides There are 2 or 3 high steep small Rocks at the S. E. point not a Cables length from the Island and another much bigger at the N. E. end it is deep Water all round but at the anchoring place and at the shole at the S. E point This Island lieth in lat 01d 10 m. South It is distant from Cape St. Lorenzo 4 or 5 leagues bearing from it W. S. W. and half a point westerly At this Island are plenty of those small Sea Turtle spoken of in my last Chapter The 21st day Captain Eaton came to an anchor by us he was very willing to have consorted with us again but Captain Davis's Men were so unreasonable that they would not allow Captain Eaton's Men an equal share with them in what they got therefore Captain Eaton staid here but one night and the next day sailed from hence steering away to the Southward We staid no longer than the day ensuing and then we sailed toward Point St. Hellena intending there to land some Men purposely to get Prisoners for intelligence Point Santa Hellena bears South from the Island Plata It lies in lat 2d 15 m. South The Point is pretty high flat and even at top overgrown with many great Thistles but no sort of Tree at a distance it appears like an Island because the Land within it is very low This Point strikes out West into the Sea making a pretty large Bay on the North side A mile within the Point on the Sandy Bay close by the Sea there is a poor small Indian Village called Sancta Hellena the Land about it is low sandy and barren there are no Trees nor Grass growing near it neither do the Indians produce any Fruit Grain or Plant but Water-Melons only which are large and very sweet There is no fresh Water at this place nor near it therefore the Inhabitants are obliged to fetch all their Water from the River Colanche which is in the bottom of the Bay about 4 leagues from it Not far from this Town on the Bay close by the Sea about 5 paces from high-water mark there is a sort of bitumenous matter boils out of a little hole in the earth It is like thin Tar the Spaniards call it Algatrane By much boiling it becomes hard like Pitch It is frequently used by the Spaniards instead of Pitch and the Indians that inhabit here save it in Jars It boils up most at high water and. then the Indians are ready to receive it These Indians are Fishermen and go out to Sea on Bark-logs Their chief subsistence is Maiz most of which they get from Ships that come hither for Algatrane There is good anchoring to leeward of the Point right against the Village but on the West side of the Point it is deep Water and no anchoring The Spaniards do report that there was once a very rich Ship driven ashore here in calm for want of Wind to work her Assoon as ever she struck she heel'd off to Sea and fill'd with Water presently and then slid off to 7 or 8 fathom Water where she lies to this day none having attempted to fish for her because she lies deep and there falls in here a great high Sea When we were abreast of this Point we sent away our Canoas in the night to take the Indian Village They landed in the morning betimes close by the Town and took some Prisoners They took likewise a small Bark which the Indians had set on fire but our Men quenched it and took the Indian that did it who being asked wherefore he set the Bark on fire said That there was an Order from the Vice-Roy lately set out commanding all Sea-men to burn their Vessels if attacked by us and betake themselves to their Boats There was another Bark in a small Cove a mile from the Village thither our men went thinking to take her but the Sea-men that were aboard set her in flames and fled In the evening our men came aboard and brought the small Bark with them the fire of which they had quenched and then we returned again towards Plata where we arriv'd the 26th day of September In the evening we sent out some men in our Bark lately taken and Canoas to an Indian Village called Manta 2 or 3 leagues to the Westward of Cape St. Lorenzo hoping there to get other Prisoners for we could not learn from those we took at Point St. Hellena the reason why the Vice-Roy should give such orders to burn the Ships They had a fresh Sea-breeze till 12 a clock at night and then it proved Calm wherefore they rowed away with their Canoas as near to the Town as they thought convenient and lay still till day Manta is a small Indian Village on the Main distant from the Island Plata 7 or 8 leagues It slands so advantageously to be seen being built on a small ascent that it makes a very fair prospect to the Sea yet but a few poor scattering Indian houses There is a very fine Church adorned with a great deal of Carved work It was formerly a habitation of Spaniards but they are all removed from hence now The Land about it is dry and
we bore away on the North side till we came to the East point giving the Rocks a small birth then we trimb'd sharp and stood to the Southward passing close by it and sounded again but found no ground This shoal is laid down in our Drafts not above 16 or 20 leagues from New Holland but we did run afterwards 60 leagues due South before we fell in with it and I am very confident that no part of New Holland hereabouts lyes so far Northerly by 40 leagues as it is laid down in our Drafts For if New Holland were laid down true we must of necessity have been driven near 40 leagues to the Westward of our course but this is very improbable that the Current should set so strong to the Westward seeing we had such a constant Westerly Wind. I grant that when the Monsoon shifts first the Current does not presently shift but runs afterwards near a month but the Monsoon had been shifted at least two months now But of the Monsoons and other Winds and of the Currents elsewhere in their proper place As to these here I do rather believe that the Land is not laid down true than that the Current deceived us for it was more probable we should have been deceived before we met with the shoal than afterward for on the Coast of New Holland we found the Tides keeping their constant course the Flood running N. by E. and the Ebb S. by W. The 4th day of January 1688 we fell in with the Land of New Holland in the Lat. of 16 d. 50 m. having as I said before made our course due South from the shoal that we past by the 31st day of December We ran in close by it and finding no convenient anchoring because it lies open to the N. W. we ran along shore to the Eastward steering N. E. by E. for so the Land lies We steered thus about 12 leagues and then came to a point of Land from whence the Land trends East and Southerly for 10 or 12 leagues but how afterwards I know not About 3 leagues to the Eastward of this point there is a pretty deep Bay with abundance of Islands in it and a very good place to anchor in or to hale ashore About a league to the Eastward of that point we anchored January the 5th 1688. 2 mile from the shore in 29 fathom good hard sand and clean ground New Holland is a very large tract of Land It is not yet determined whether it is an Island or a main Continent but I am certain that it joyns neither to Asia Africa nor America This part of it that we saw is all low even Land with sandy Banks against the Sea only the points are rocky and so are some of the Islands in this Bay The Land is of a dry sandy soil destitute of Water except you make Wells yet producing divers sorts of Trees but the Woods are not thick nor the Trees very big Most of the Trees that we saw are Dragon-trees as we supposed and these too are the largest Trees of any there They are about the bigness of our large Apple Trees and about the same heighth and the rind is blackish and somewhat rough The leaves are of a dark colour the Gum distils out of the knots or cracks that are in the bodies of the Trees We compared it with some Gum Dragon or Dragons Blood that was aboard and it was of the same colour and taste The other sorts of Trees were not known by any of us There was pretty long grass growing under the Trees but it was very thin We saw no Trees that bore Fruit or Berries We saw no sort of Animal nor any track of Beast but once and that seemed to be the tread of a Beast as big as a great Mastiff Dog Here are a few small Land-birds but none bigger than a Blackbird and but few Sea-fowls Neither is the Sea very plentifully stored with Fish unless you reckon the Manatee and Turtle as such Of these creatures there is plenty but they are extraordinary shy though the Inhabitants cannot trouble them much having neither Boats nor Iron The Inhabitants of this Country are the miserablest People in the world The Hodmadods of Monomatapa though a nasty People yet for Wealth are Gentlemen to these who have no Houses and Skin Garments Sheep Poultry and Fruits of the Earth Ostrich Eggs c. as the Hodmadods have and setting aside their humane shape they differ but little from Brutes They are tall strait bodied and thin with small long Limbs They have great Heads round Foreheads and great Brows Their Eye-lids are always half closed to keep the Flies out of their Eyes they being so troublesome here that no fanning will keep them from coming to ones Face and without the assistance of both hands to keep them off they will creep into ones Nostrils and Mouth too if the Lips are not shut very close So that from their Infancy being thus annoyed with these Insects they do never open their Eyes as other People and therefore they cannot see far unless they hold up their Heads as if they were looking at somewhat over them They have great Bottle noses pretty full lips and wide mouths The two fore teeth of their upper Jaw are wanting in all of them men and women old and young whether they draw them out I know not Neither have they any Beards They are long visaged and of a very unpleasing aspect having no one graceful feature in their faces Their Hair is black short and curl'd like that of the Negroes and not long and lank like the common Indians The colour of their skins both of their faces and the rest of their body is coal black like that of the Negroes of Guinea They have no sort of Cloaths but a piece of the rind of a Tree ty'd like a Girdle about their wastes and a handful of long Grass or 3 or 4 small green Boughs full of Leaves thrust under their Girdle to cover their nakedness They have no Houses but lye in the open Air without any covering the Earth being their Bed and the Heaven their Canopy Whether they cohabit one Man to one Woman or promiscuously I know not but they do live in Companies 20 or 30 Men Women and Children together Their only food is a small sort of Fish which they get by making Wares of stone across little Coves or branches of the Sea every Tide bringing in the small Fish and there leaving them for a prey to these people who constantly attend there to search for them at low water This small Fry I take to be the top of their Fishery they have no Instruments to catch great Fish should they come and such seldom stay to be left behind at low water nor could we catch any Fish with our Hooks and Lines all the while we lay there In other places at low water they seek for Cockles Muscles and Periwincles Of these Shell-fish there are
care for Victuals till they come Home again This is called Posole And by the English Poorsoul It is so much esteemed by the Indians that they are never without some of it in their Houses Another way of Preparing their Drink is to parch the Maiz and then grind it to Powder on the Rubbing-stone putting a little Anatta to it which grows in their Plantations and is used by them for no other purpose They mix it all with Water and presently drink it off without straining In long Journeys they prefer this Drink before Posole They feed abundance of Turkies Ducks and Dunghill Fowls of which the Padre has an exact Account and is very strict in gathering his Tithe and they dare not kill any except they have his Leave for it They plant Cotton also for their Cloathing The Men wear only a short Jacket and Breeches These with a Palmeto Leaf Hat is their Sundays Dress for they have neither Stockings nor Shoes neither do they wear these Jackets on Week Days The Women have a Cotton-Peticoat and a large Frock down to their Knees the Sleeves to their Wrists but not gathered The Bosom is open to the Breast and Imbroidered with black or red Silk or Grogram Yarn two Inches broad on each side the Breast and clear round the Neck In this Garb with their Hair ty'd up in a Knot behind they think themselves extream fine The Men are obliged by the Padres as I have been inform'd to Marry when they are Fourteen Years old and the Women when Twelve And if at that Age they are not provided the Priest will chuse a Virgin for the Man or a Man for the Virgin of equal Birth and Fortune and joyn them together The Spaniards give several Reasons for this Imposition Viz. That it preserves them from Debauchery and makes them Industrious That it brings them to pay Taxes both to the King and Church for as soon as they are Married they pay to both And that it keeps them from rambling out of their own Parish and settling in another which would by so much lessen the Padres Profit They love each other very well and live comfortably by the sweat of their Brows They build good large Houses and inhabit altogether in Towns The side Walls are Mud or Watling plaister'd on the inside and thatch'd with Palm or Palmeto Leaves The Churches are large built much higher than the Common Houses and covered with Pantile and within adorned with Coarse Pictures and Images of Saints which are all painted tauny like the Indians themselves Besides these Ornaments there are kept in the Churches Pipes Hautboys Drums Vizards and Perruques for their Recreation at solemn Times for they have little or no Sport or Pastime but in Common and that only upon Saints Days and the Nights ensuing The Padres that serve here must learn the Indian Language before they can have a Benefice As for their Tithes and other Incoms Mr. Gage an English Man hath given a large Account of them in his Survey of the West Indies But however this I will add of my own knowledge that they are very dutiful to their Priests observing punctually their Orders and behave themselves very circumspectly and reverently in their Presence They are generally well shaped of a middle size streight and clean Limb'd The Men more spare the Women plump and fat their Faces are round and flat their Foreheads low their Eyes little their Noses of a mid'dle size somewhat flattish full Lips pretty full but little Mouths white Teeth and their Colour of a dark tauny like other Indians They sleep in Hammacks made with small Cords like a Net fastned at each end to a Post. Their Furniture is but mean Viz. Earthen Pots to boil their Maiz in and abundance of Callabashes They are a very harmless sort of People kind to any Strangers and even to the Spaniards by whom they are so much kept under that they are worse than Slaves nay the very Negroes will domineer over them and are countenanced to do so by the Spaniards This makes them very melancholly and thoughtful however they are very quiet and seem contented with their Condition if they can tolerably subsist But sometimes when they are imposed on beyond their Ability they will march off whole Towns Men Women and Children together as is before related CHAP. VI. The River of Checapeque The River of Dos Boccas The Towns up the Country Halpo Their Trade Old Hats a good Commodity A sad Accident in Hunting Tondelo River Musketos troublesom on this Coast. Guasickwalp River Teguantapeque River Few Gold Mines on all this part of the Sea-Coast Teguantapeque Town Keyhooca and its Cacao-Trade Vinellos Alvarado River and its Branches It s Fort Town and Trade Cod Pepper La Vera Cruz. The Fort of St. John d'Ulloa The Barra la Venta Fleet and their Navigation about the West India Coast. The Town of Tispo Panuk River and Town Lagune and Town of Tompeque Huniago Island It s Trade in Shrimps The Author's return to Logwood-Cutting at Trist. Captain Gibbs kill'd there by some Indians he brought from New-England The Author 's setting out to Jamaica and return for England HAving given the Reader an Account of the Indians inhabiting about the River of Tobasco I come next to describe the Western Coast of this Bay with its Rivers and other most remarkable Particulars From Tobasco River to the River Checapeque is 7 Leagues The Coast lies East and West all woody low Ground sandy Bay and good Anchoring but there falls in a pretty high Sea on the shore therefore but bad Landing yet Canoas may with care run in if the Men are ready to leap out as soon as she touches the Ground and then she must immediately be drag'd up out of the Surf And the same caution and dexterity is to be used when they go off again There is no fresh Water between Tobasco River and Checapeque This latter is rather a salt Creek than a River for the Mouth of it is not above 20 Paces wide and about 8 or 9 Foot Water on the Bar but within there is 12 or 13 Foot at low Water and good Riding for Barks half a Mile within the Mouth This Creek runs in E. S. E. about two Miles and then strikes away South up into the Country At its Mouth between it and the Sea is a bare sandy Point of Land Where on the side next the River close by the Brink of it and no where else you may scrape up the Sand which is course and brown with your Hands and get fresh Water but if you dig lower the Water will be salt Half a Mile within the Mouth when you are past the sandy Point the Land is wet and swampy bearing only Mangroves on each side for 4 or 5 Leagues up and after that firm Land where you will find a Run of fresh Water it being all salt till you come thither A League beyond this is a Beef Estantion or Farm
big as a Turkey wherewith we treated our Guides for we brought no Provision with us This night our last Slave run away The eleventh day we marched 10 mile farther and built Hutts at night but went supperless to bed The twelfth in the morning we crossed a deep River passing over it on a Tree and marched 7 mile in a low swampy ground and came to the side of a great deep River but could not get over We built Hutts upon its Banks and lay there all night upon our Barbecu's or frames of Sticks raised about 3 foot from the ground The thirteenth day when we turned out the River had overflowed its Banks and was 2 foot deep in our Hutts and our Guides went from us not telling us their intent which made us think they were returned home again Now we began to repent our haste in coming from the last settlements for we had no food since we came from thence Indeed we got Macaw-berries in this place wherewith we satisfied our selves this day though coursly The fourteenth day in the morning betimes our Guides came to us again and the Waters being fallen within their bounds they carry'd us to a Tree that stood on the Bank of the River and told us if we could fell that Tree cross it we might pass if not we could pass no further Therefore we set two of the best Ax-men that we had who fell'd it exactly cross the River and the bows just reached over on this we passed very safe We afterwards crossed another River three times with much difficulty and at 3 a Clock in the afternoon we came to an Indian settlement where we met a drove of Monkeys and kill d 4 of them and stayed here all night having marched this day 6 miles Here we got Plantains enough and a kind reception of the Indian that lived here all alone except one boy to wait on him The fifteenth day when we set out the kind Indian and his boy went with us in a Canoa and set us over such places as we could not ford and being past those great Rivers he returned back again having helped us at least 2 mile We marched afterwards 5 mile and came to large Plantain walks where we took up our quarters that night we there fed plentifully on Plantains both ripe and green and had fair weather all the day and night I think these were the largest Plantains walks and the biggest Plantains that ever I saw but no house near them We gathered what we pleased by our Guides orders The sixteenth day we marched 3 mile and came to a large settlement where we abode all day Not a man of us but wisht the Journey at an end our Feet being blistered and our Thighs stript with wading through so many Rivers the way being almost continually through Rivers or pathless Woods In the afternoon five of us went to seek for game and kill'd 3 Monkeys which we drest for Supper Here we first began to have fair Weather which continued with us till we came to the North Seas The eighteenth day we set out at 10 a Clock and the Indians with 5 Canoas carried us a league up a River and when we landed the kind Indians went with us and carried our burthens We marched 3 mile farther and then built our Hutts having travelled from the last settlements 6 miles The nineteenth day our Guides lost their way and we did not march above 2 miles The twentieth day by 12 a Clock we came to Cheapo River The Rivers we crost hitherto run all into the South Seas and this of Cheapo was the last we met with that run that way Here an old man who came from the last settlements distributed his burthen of Plantains amongst us and taking his leave returned home Afterward we forded the River and marched to the foot of a very high Mountain where we lay all night This day we marched about 9 miles The 21st day some of the Indians returned back and we marched up a very high mountain being on the top we went some miles on a ridge and steep on both sides then descended a little and came to a fine Spring where we lay all night having gone this day about 9 miles the weather still very fair and clear The 22d day we marched over another very high Mountain keeping on the ridge 5 miles When we came to the North end we to our great comfort saw the Sea then we descended and parted our selves into 3 Companies and lay by the side of a River which was the first we met that runs into the North Sea The 23d day we came through several large Plantain walks and at 10 a Clock came to an Indians habitation not far from the North Sea Here we got Canoas to carry us down the River Conception to the Sea side having gone this day about 7 miles We found a great many Indians at the mouth of this River They had settled themselves here for the benefit of Trade with the Privateers and their Commodities were Yams Potatoes Plantains Sugar Canes Fowls and Eggs. These Indians told us that there had been a great many English and French Ships here which were all gone but one Barco-longo a French Privateer that lay at La Sound 's Key or Island This Island is about 3 leagues from the mouth of the River Conception and is one of the Samballoes a range of Islands reaching for about 20 leagues from point Samballas to Golden-Island Eastward These Islands or Keys as we call them were first made the Rendezvous of Privateers in the year 1679 being very convenient for careening and had names given to some of them by the Captains of the Privateers as this La-Sound s Key particularly Thus we finished our Journey from the South Sea to the North in 23 days in which time by my account we travelled 110 miles crossing some very high Mountains but our common march was in the Valleys among deep and dangerous Rivers At our first landing in this Country we were told that the Indians were our Enemies we knew the Rivers to be deep the wet season to be coming in yet excepting those we left behind we lost but one man who was drowned as I said Our first landing place on the South Coast was very disadvantageous for we travelled at least 50 miles more than we need to have done could we have gone up Cheapo River or Santa Maria River for at either of these places a man may pass from Sea to Sea in 3 days time with ease The Indians can do it in a day and a half by which you may see how easy it is for a party of men to travel over I must confess the Indians did assist us very much and I question whether ever we had got over without their assistance because they brought us from time to time to their Plantations where we always got Provision which else we should have wanted But if a party of 500 or 600 men or more were
is a Pond of brackish Water which sometimes Privateers use instead of better there is likewise good riding by it About a league from this are two other Islands not 200 yards distant from each other yet a deep Channel for Ships to pass through They are both overgrown with red Mangrove Trees which Trees above any of the Mangroves do flourish best in wet drowned Land such as these two Islands are only the East point of the Westernmost Island is dry Sand without Tree or Bush On this point we careened lying on the South side of it The other Islands are low and have red Mangroves and other Trees on them Here also Ships may ride but no such place for careening as where we lay because at that place Ships may hale close to the shore and if they have but four Guns on the point may secure the Channel and hinder any Enemy from coming near them I observ'd that within among the Islands was good riding in many places but not without the Islands except to the West-ward or S. West of them For on the East or N. E. of these Islands the common Trade-Wind blows and makes a great Sea and to the South-ward of them there is no ground under 70 80 or 100 fathom close by the Land After we had filled what Water we could from hence we set out again in April 1682. and came to Salt-Tortuga so called to distinguish it from the shoals of Dry Tortugas near Cape Florida and from the Isle of Tortugas by Hispaniola which was called formerly French Tortugas though not having heard any mention of that name a great while I am apt to think it is swallow'd up in that of Petit-Guavres the chief Garrison the French have in those parts This Island we arrived at is pretty large uninhabited and abounds with Salt It is in Lat. 11 degrees North and lyeth West and a little Northerly from Margarita an Island inhabited by the Spaniards strong and wealthy it is distant from it about 14 leagues and 17 or 18 from Cape Blanco on the Main A Ship being within these Islands a little to the South-ward may see at once the Main Margarita and Tortuga when it is clear weather The East end of Tortuga is full of rugged bare broken Rocks which stretch themselves a little way out to Sea At the S. E. part is an indifferent good Road for Ships much frequented in peaceable times by Merchant-ships that come hither to lade Salt in the months of May June July and August For at the East end is a large Salt-pond within 200 paces of the Sea The Salt begins to kern or grain in April except it is a dry season for it is observed that rain makes the Salt kern I have seen above 20 Sail at a time in this road come to lade Salt and these Ships coming from some of the Caribbe Islands are always well stored with Rum Sugar and Lime-juice to make Punch to hearten their Men when they are at work getting and bringing aboard the Salt and they commonly provide the more in hopes to meet with Privateers who resort hither in the aforesaid months purposely to keep a Christmas as they call it being sure to meet with Liquor enough to be merry with and are very liberal to those that treat them Near the West end of the Island on the South side there is a small Harbour and some fresh Water That end of the Island is full of shrubby Trees but the East end is rocky and barren as to Trees producing only course Grass There are some Goats on it but not many and Turtle or Tortise come upon the sandy Bays to lay their Eggs and from them the Island hath its Name There is no riding any where but in the Road where the Salt-Ponds are or in the Harbour At this Isle we thought to have sold our Sugar among the English Ships that come hither for Salt but failing there we design'd for Trinidada an Island near the Main inhabited by the Spaniards tolerably strong and wealthy but the Current and Easterly Winds hindering us we passed through between Margarita and the Main and went to Blanco a pretty large Island almost North of Margarita about 30 leagues from the Main and in 11 d. 50 m. North Lat. It is a flat even low uninhabited Island dry and healthy most Savanah of long Grass and hath some Trees of Lignum Vitae growing in Spots with shrubby Bushes of other Wood about them It is plentifully stored with Guano s which are an Animal like a Lizard but much bigger The body is as big as the small of a mans leg and from the hind quarter the tail grows tapering to the end which is very small If a Man takes hold of the tail except very near the hind quarter it will part and breakoff in one of the joints and the Guano will get away They lay Eggs as most of those amphibious creatures do and are very good to eat Their flesh is much esteemed by Privateers who commonly dress them for their sick men for they make very good Broath They are of divers colours as almost black dark brown light brown dark green light green yellow and speckled They all live as well in the Water as on Land and some of them are constantly in the Water and among Rocks These are commonly black Others that live in swampy wet ground are commonly on Bushes and Trees these are green But such as live in dry ground as here at Blanco are commonly yellow yet these also will live in the Water and are sometimes on Trees The Road is on the N. W. end against a small Cove or little sandy Bay There is no riding any where else for it is deep water and steep close to the Land There is one small Spring on the West side and there are sandy Bays round the Island where Turtle or Tortoise come up in great abundance going ashore in the night These that frequent this Island are called green Turtle and they are the best of that sort both for largeness and sweetness of any in all the West Indies I would here give a particular description of these and other sorts of Turtle in these Seas but because I shall have occasion to mention some other sorts of Turtle when I come again into the South Seas that are very different from all these I shall there give a general account of all these several sorts at once that the difference between them may be the better discerned Some of our modern Descriptions speak of Goats on this Island I know not what there may have been formerly but there are none now to my certain knowledge for my self and many more of our Crew have been all over it Indeed these parts have undergone great changes in this last age as well in places themselves as in their Owners and Commodities of them particularly Nombre de Dios a City once famous and which still retains a considerable name in some late
Eaton in the Streights of Magellan the Spaniards of Baldivia were doubtless informed of us by him suspecting him also to be one of us tho he was not Upon this News the Viceroy of Lima sent Expresses to all the Sea Ports that they might provide themselves against our Assaults We immediately steered away for the Island Lobos which lieth in lat 6 deg 24 min. South lat I took the Elevation of it ashore with an Astrolabe and its 5 leagues from the Main it is called Lobos de la Mar to distinguish it from another that is not far from it and extremely like it called Lobos de la Terra for it lies nearer the Main Lobos or Lovos is the Spanish Name for a Seal of which there are great plenty about these and several other Islands in these Seas that go by this Name The 9th of May we arrived at this Isle of Lobos de la Mar and came to an anchor with our Prize This Lobos consists indeed of two little Islands each about a milâ—…und of an indifferent heighth a small Channel between fit for Boats only and several Rocks lying on the North side of the Islands a little way from shore There is a small Cove or Sandy Bay sheltred from the Winds at the West end of the Eastermost Island where Ships may Careen The rest of the shore as well round the 2 Islands as between them is a Rocky Coast consisting of small Cliffs Within Land they are both of them partly Rocky and partly Sandy Barren without any fresh Water Tree Shrub Grass or Herbs or any Land Animals for the Seals and Sea-Lyons come ashore here but Fowls Of which there are great multitudes as Boobies but mostly Penguins which I have seen plentifully all over the South Seas on the Coast of Newfoundland and of the Cape of Good Hope They are a Sea Fowl about as big as a Duck and such Feet but a sharp Bill feeding on Fish They do not fly but flutter having rather stumps like a young Gossins than Wings And these are instead of Fins to them in the Water Their Feathers are Downy Their flesh is but ordinary food but their Eggs are good Meat There is another sort of small black Fowl that make holes in the Sand for their Night habitations whose flesh is good sweet meat I never saw any of them but here and at John Fernandos There is good riding between the Eastermost Island and the Rocks in 10 12 or 14 fathom for the wind is commonly at S. or S. S. E. and the Eastermost Island lying East and West shelters that Road. Here we scrubb'd our Ships and being in a readiness to sail the Prisoners were Examined to know if any of them could conduct us to some Town where we might make some attempt For they had before informed us that we were discried by the Spaniards and by that we knew that they would send no Riches by Sea so long as we were here Many Towns were considered on as Guiaquil Zana Truxillo and others At last Truxillo was pitched on as the most important therefore the likeliest to make us a Voyage if we could Conquer it which we did not much question though we knew it to be a very populous City But the greatest difficulty was in Landing for Guanchaquo which is the nearest Sea-port to it but 6 miles off is an ill place to Land since sometimes the very Fishermen that live there are not able to go out in 3 or 4 days However the 17th of May in the Afternoon our Men were mustered of both Ships Companies and their Arms proved We were in all 108 Men fit for Service besides the sick and the next day we intended to Sail and take the Wood Prize with us But the next day one of our Men being ashoar betimes on the Island discried three Sail bound to the North-ward two of them without the Island to the Westward the other between it and the Continent We soon got our Anchors up and chased and Captain Eaton who drew the least draught of Water put through between the Westermost Island and the Rocks and went after those two that were without the Islands We in Captain Cook 's Ship went after the other which stood in for the Main-Land but we soon fetched her up and having taken her stood in again with her to the Island for we saw that Captain Eaton wanted no help having taken both those that he went after He came in with one of his Prizes but the other was so far to Leeward and so deep that he could not then get her in but he hoped to get her in the next day but being deep laden as designed to go down before the wind to Panama she would not bear Sail. The 19th day she turned all day but got nothing nearer the Island Our Moskito strikers according to their custom went out and struck 6 Turtles for here are indifferent plenty of them These Ships that we took the day before came from Guanchaquo all three laden with Flower bound for Panama Two of them were laden as deep as they could swim the other was not above half laden but was ordered by the Vice-Roy of Lima to sail with the other two or else she should not sail till we were gone out of the Seas for he hoped they might escape us by setting out early In the biggest Ship was a Letter to the President of Panama from the Vice-Roy of Lima assuring him that there were Enemies come into that Sea for which reason he had dispatched these three Ships with Flower that they might not want for Panama is supplied from Peru and desired him to be frugal of it for he knew not when he should send more In this Ship were likewise 7 or 8 Tuns of Marmalate of Quinees and a stately Mule sent to the President and a very large Image of the Virgin Mary in Wood Carved and Painted to adorn a new Church at Panama and sent from Lima by the Vice-Roy for this great Ship came from thence not long before She brought also from Lima 800000 pieces of Eight to carry with her to Panama but while she lay at Guanchaco taking in her lading of Flower the Merchants hearing of Capt. Swan's being at Baldivia ordered the Money ashore again These Prisoners likewise informed us that the Gentlemen Inhabitants of Truxillo were building a Fort at Guanchaco which is the Sea Port for Truxillo close by the Sea purposely to hinder the designs of any that should attempt to land there Upon this news we altered our former resolutions and resolved to go with our three Prizes to the Gallapagos which are a great many large Islands lying some under the Equator others on each side of it I shall here omit the description of Truxillo because in my Appontlix at the latter end of the Book I intend to give a general Relation of most of the Towns of note on this Coast from Baldivia to Panama and from thence towards
Seas is among these Gallapago Islands for here is plenty of Grass There is another sort of Green Turtle in the South Seas which are but small yet pretty sweet These lye Westward on the Coast of Mexico One thing is very strange and remarkable in these Creatures that at the breeding time they leave for 2 or 3 Months their common haunts where they feed most of the Year and resort to other places only to lay their Eggs And 't is not thought that they eat any thing during this Season So that both He 's and She 's grow very lean but the He 's to that degree that none will eat them The most remarkable places that I did ever hear of for their breeding is at an Island in the West Indies called Caimanes and the Isle Ascention in the Western Ocean and when the breeding time is past there are none remaining Doubtless they swim some hundreds of Leagues to come to those two places For it hath been often observed that at Caimanes at the breeding time there are found all those sorts of Turtle before described The South Keys of Cuba are above 40 Leagues from thence which is the nearest place that these Creatures can come from and it is most certain that there could not live so many there as come here in one Season Those that go to lay at Ascention must needs travel much farther for there is no Land nearer it than 300 Leagues And it is certain that these Creatures live always near the shore In the South Sea likewise the Gallapagos is the place where they live the biggest part of the Year yet they go from thence at their Season over to the Main to lay their Eggs which is 100 Leagues the nearest place Altho multitudes of these Turtles go from their common places of feeding and abode to those laying places yet they do not all go And at the time when the Turtlè resort to these places to lay their Eggs they are accompanied with abundance of Fish especially Sharks the places which the Turtle then leave being at that time destitute of Fish which follow the Turtle When the She 's go thus to their places to lay the Male accompany them and never leave them till their return Both Male and Female are Fat the begining of the Season but before they return the Male as I said are so lean that they are not fit to eat but the Female are good to the very last Yet not so Fat as at the beginning of the Season It is reported of these Creatures that they are 9 days engendring and in the Water the Male on the Females back It is observable that the Male while engendring do not easily forsake their Female For I have gone and taken hold of the Male when ingendring and a very bad striker may strike them then for the Male is not shie at all but the Female seeing a Boat when they rise to blow would make her escape but that the Male grasps her with his 2 fore Fins and holds her fast When they are thus coupled it is best to strike the Female first then you are sure of the Male also These Creatures are thought to live to a great Age and it is observed by the Jamaica Turtlers that they are many years before they come to their full growth The air of these Islands is temperate enough considering the Clime Here is constantly a fresh Sea breze all Day and cooling refreshing winds in the Night Therefore the heat is not so violent here as in most places near the Equator The time of the Year for the Rains is in November December and January Then there is oftentimes excessive dark Tempestuous weather mixt with much Thunder and Lightning Sometimes before and after these Months there are moderate refreshing Showers but in May June July and August the weather is alway very fair We staid at one of these Islands which lies under the Equator but one Night because our Prizes could not get into an Anchor We refresht our selves very well both with Land and Sea Turtles and the next day we failed from thence The next Island of the Gallapagos that we came to is but 2 Leagues from this 'T is Rocky and barren like this it is about 5 or 6 Leagues long and 4 broad We Anchored in the Afternoon at the North side of the Island a quarter of a Mile from the shore in 16 fathom water It is steep all round this Island and no Anchoring only at this place Here it is but ordinary riding for the ground is so steep that if an Anchor starts it never holds again and the wind is commonly off from the Land except in the Night when the Land-wind comes more from the West for there it blows right along the shore though but faintly Here is no water but in Ponds and holes of the Rocks That which we first Anchored at hath water on the North end falling down in a stream from high steep Rocks upon the Sandy Bay where it may be taken up As soon as we came to an Anchor we made a Tent ashore for Captain Cook who was sick Here we found the Sea Turtle lying ashore on the Sand this is not customary in the West Indies We turned them on their backs that they might not get away The next day more came up when we found it to be their custom to lye in the Sun so we never took care to turn them afterwards but sent ashore the Cook every morning who kill'd as many as served for the day This custom we observed all the time we lay here feeding sometimes on Land Turtle sometimes on Sea Turtle there being plenty of either sort Captain Davis came hither again a second time and then he went to other Islands on the West side of these There he found such plenty of Land Turtle that he and his Men eat nothing else for 3 Months that he staid there They were so Fat that he saved 60 Jars of Oyl out of those that he spent This Oyl served instead of Butter to eat with Dough-boys or Dumplin's in his return out of these Seas He found very convenient places to Careen and good Channels between the Islands and very good Anchoring in many places There he found also plenty of brooks of good fresh water and fire wood enough there being plenty of Trees fit for many uses Captain Harris one that we shall speak of hereafter came hither likewise and found some Islands that had plenty of Mammee-trees and pretty large Rivers The Sea about these Islands is plentifully stored with Fish such as are at John Fernando's They are both large and Fat and as plentiful here as at John Fernando's Here are particularly abundance of Sharks The North part of this second Isle we anchor'd at lyes 28 minutes North of the Equator I took the heighth of the Sun with an Astrolabe These Isles of the Gallapago's have plenty of Salt We stay'd here but 12 days in which
time we put ashore 5000 packs of flower for a reserve if we should have occasion of any before we left these Seas Here one of our Indian Prisoners informed us that he was born at Ria Lexa and that he would engage to carry us thither He being examin'd of the strength and riches of it satisfy'd the Company so well that they were resolv'd to go thither Having thus concluded the 12th of June we sailed from hence designing to touch at the Island Cocos as well to put ashore some Flower there as to see the Island because it was in our way to Ria Lexa We steer'd North till in Lat. 4. d. 40 min. intending then to steer W. by N. for we expected to have had the Wind at S. by E. or S. S. E. as wo had on the South side of the Equator Thus I had formerly found the Winds near the shore in these latitudes but when we first parted from the Gallapagos we had the Wind at S. and as we sailed farther North we had the Winds at S. by W. then at S. S. W. Winds which we did not expect We thought at first that the Wind would come about again to the South but when we came to sail off West to the Island Cocos we had the Wind at S. W. by S. and could lye but W. by N. Yet we stood that course till we were in the lat 5 d. 40 m. North and then despairing as the Winds were to find the Island Cocos we steer'd over to the Main for had we seen the Island then we could not have fetcht it being so far to the North of it The Island Cocos is so named by the Spaniards because there are abundance of Coco-nut Trees growing on it They are not only in one or two places but grow in great Groves all round the Island by the Sea This is an uninhabited Island it is 7 or 8 leagues round and pretty high in the middle where it is destitute of Trees but looks very green and pleasant with an Herb called by the Spaniards Gramadael It is low Land by the Sea side This Island is in 5 d. 15 m. North of the Equator it is environed with Rocks which makes it almost inaccessible only at the N. E. end there is a small Harbor where Ships may safely enter and ride secure In this Harbour there is a fine Brook of fresh Water running into the Sea This is the account that the Spaniards give of it and I had the same also from Captain Eaton who was there afterward Any who like us had not experienced the nature of the Winds in these parts might reasonably expect that we could have sailed with a flown sheet to Ria Lexa but we found our selves mistaken for as we came nearer the shore we found the winds right in our Teeth but I shall refer my Reader to the Chapter of Winds in the Appendix for a further account of this We had very fair weather and small winds in this Voyage from the Gallapagos and at the beginning of July we fell in with Cape Blanca on the Main of Mexico This is so called from two white Rocks lying off it When we are off at Sea right against the Cape they appear as part of the Cape but being near the shore either to the Eastward or Westward of the Cape they appear like two Ships under sail at first view but coming nearer they are like two high Towers they being small high and steep on all sides and they are about half a mile from the Cape This Cape is in lat 9 d. 56 m. It is about the height of Beachy-head in England on the Coast of Sussex It is a full point with steep Rocks to the Sea The top of it is flat and even for about a mile then it gradually falls away on each side with a gentle descent It appears very pleasant being covered with great lofty Trees From the Cape on the N. W. side the Land runs in N. E. for about 4 leagues making a small Bay called by the Spaniards Caldera A league within Cape Blanco on the N. W. side of it and at the entrance of this Bay there is a small Brook of very good water running into the Sea Here the Land is low making a sadling between two small Hills It is very rich Land producing large tall Trees of many sorts the Mold is black and deep which I have always taken notice of to be a fat foil About a mile from this Brook towards the N. E. the VVood land terminates Here the Savannah land begins and runs some leagues into the Country making many small Hills and Dales These Savannahs are not altogether clear of Trees but are here and there sprinkled with small Groves which render them very delightful The Grass which grows here is very kindly thick and long I have seen none better in the West Indies Toward the bottom of the Bay the Land by the Sea is low and full of Mangroves but farther in the Country the Land is high and mountainous The Mountains are part VVoodland part Savannah The Trees in those VVoods are but small and short and the Mountain Savannahs are cloathed but with indifferent Grass From the bottom of this Bay it is but 14 or 15 leagues to the Lake of Nicaragua on the North-Sea Coast the way between is somewhat Mountanous but most Savannah Captain Cook who was taken sick at John Fernandoes continued so till we came within 2 or 3 leagues of Cape Blanco and then dyed of a sudden tho he seemed that morning to be as likely to live as he had been some weeks before but it is usual with sick men coming from the Sea where they have nothing but the Sea Air to dye off as soon as ever they come within the view of the Land About 4 hours after we all came to an Anchor namely the the Ship that I was in Captain Eaton and the great Meal Prize a league within the Cape right against the Brook of Fresh-water in 14 fathom clean hard Sand. Presently after we came to an Anchor Captain Cook was carried ashore to be buried 12 men carried their Arms to guard those that were ordered to dig the Grave for although we saw no appearance of Inhabitants yet we did not know but the Country might be thick inhabited And before Captain Cook was interrâ—…d 3 Spanish Indians came to the place where our men were digging the Grave and demanded what they were and from whence they came to whom our men answered they came from Lima and were bound to Ria Lexa but that the Captain of one of the Ships dying at Sea obligâ—…d them to come into this place to give him Christian burial The 3 Spanish Indians who were very shy at first began to be more bold and drawing nearer asked many silly questions and our men did not stick to sooth them up with as many falshoods purposely to draw them into their clutches Our men often
sandy bearing only a few shrubby Trees These Indians plant no manner of Grain or Root but are supplied from other places and commonly keep a stock of Provision to relieve Ships that want for this is the first Settlement that Ships can touch at which come from Panama bound to Lima or any other Port in Peru. The Land being dry and sandy is not fit to produce Crops of Maize which is the reason they plant none There is a Spring of good Water between the Village and the Seas On the back of the Town a pretty way up in the Country there is a very high Mountain towring up like a Sugar-loaf called Monte-Christo It is a very good Sea-mark for there is none like it on all the Coast. The body of this Mountain bears due South from Manta About a mile and half from the Shore right against the Village there is a Rock which is very dangerous because it never appears above water neither doth the Sea break on it because here is seldom any great Sea yet it is now so well known that all Ships bound to this place do easily avoid it A mile within this Rock there is good Anchoring in 6 8 or 10 fathom Water good hard Sand and clear ground And a mile from the Road on the West side there is a shole running out a mile into the Sea From Manta to Cape St. Lorenzo the Land is plain and even of an indifferent heighth See a further account of these Coasts in the Appendix As soon as ever the day appear'd our men landed and march'd towards the Village which was about a mile and a half from their Landing-place Some of the Indians who were stirring saw them coming and alarmed their Neighbours so that all that were able got away They took only two old Women who both said that it was reported that a great many Enemies were come over land thro the Country of Darien into the South Seas and that they were at present in Canoas and Periagoes and that the Vice-Roy upon this news had set out the fore-mentioned order for burning their own Ships Our men found no sort of provision here the Vice-Roy having likewise sent orders to all Sea-ports to keep no provision but just to supply themselves These Women also said that the Manta Indians were sent over to the Island Plata to destroy all the Goats there which they performed about a month agone With this news our men returned again and arriv'd at Plata the next day We lay still at the Island Plata being not resolved what to do till the 2d day of October and then Captain Swan in the Cygnet of London arriv'd there He was fitted out by very eminent Merchants of that City on a design only to trade with the Spaniards or Indians having a very considerable Cargo well sorted for these parts of the World but meeting with divers disappointments and being out of hopes to obtain a trade in these Seas his men forc'd him to entertain a company of Privateers which he met with near Nicoya a Town whither he was going to seek a Trade and these Privateers were bound thither in Boats to get a Ship These were the men that we had heard of at Manta they came over land under the command of Captain Peter Harris Nephew to that Captain Harris who was kill'd before Panama Captain Swan was still Commander of his own Ship and Captain Harris commanded a small Bark under Captain Swan There was much joy on all sides when they arriv'd and immediately hereupon Captain Davis and Captain Swan consorted wishing for Captain Eaton again Our little Bark which was taken at Santa Hellena was immediately sent out to cruize while the Ships were fitting for Captain Swan's Ship being full of goods was not fit to entertain his new guest till the goods were dispos'd of therefore he by the consent of the Supercargo's got up all his goods on Deck and sold to any one that would buy upon trust the rest was thrown over-board into the Sea except fine goods as Silks Muslins Stockings c. and except the Iron whereof he had a good quantity both wrought and in Bars This was saved for Ballast The third day after our Bark was sent to cruize she brought in a Prize of 400 Tuns laden with Timber They took her in the Bay of Guiaquil she came from a Town of that name and was bound to Lima. The Commander of this Prize said that it was generally reported and believed at Guiaquil that the Vice-Roy was fitting out 10 sail of Frigots to drive us out of the Seas This news made our unsettled Crew wish that they had been perswaded to accept of Captain Eaton's company on reasonable terms Captain Davis and Captain Swan had some discourse concerning Captain Eaton they at last concluded to send our small Bark towards the Coast of Lima as far as the Island Lobos to seek Captain Eaton This being approved by all hands she was cleaned the next day and sent away mann'd with 20 men 10 of Captain Davis and 10 of Swan's men and Captain Swan writ a Letter directed to Captain Eaton desiring his company and the Isle of Plata was appointed for the general Rendezvous When this Bark was gone we turn'd another Bark which we had into a Fire-ship having 6 or 7 Carpenters who soon fixt her and while the Carpenters were at work about the Fire-ship we scrubb'd and clean'd our Men of War as well as time and place would permit The 19th day of October we finish'd our business and the 20th day we sail'd toward the Island Lobos where our Bark was order'd to stay for us or meet us again at Plata We had but little Wind therefore it was the 23d day before we passed by Point St. Hellena The 25th day we crossed over the Bay of Guiaquil The 30th day we doubled Cape Blanco This Cape is in lat 3 d. 45 m. It is counted the worst Cape in all the South Seas to double passing to the Southward for in all other places Ships may stand off to Sea 20 or 30 leagues off if they find they cannot get any thing under the shore but here they dare not do it for by relation of the Spaniards they find a current setting N. W. which will carry a Ship off more in 2 hours than they can run in again in 5. Besides setting to the Northward they lose ground therefore they alway beat it up under the shore which oft-times they find very difficult because the wind commonly blows very strong at S. S. W. or S. by W. without altering for here are never any Land-winds This Cape is of an indifferent heighth It is fenced with white Rocks to the Sea for which reason I believe it hath this name The Land in the Country seems to be full of high steep rugged and barren Rocks The 2d day of November we got as high as Payta We lay about 6 leagues off shore all the day that the
from all parts But Panama as it is not overcharg d with men so unreasonably as the other tho very full so it enjoys a good air lying open to the Sea wind which riseth commonly about 10 or 11 a clock in the morning and continues till 8 or 9 a clock at night then the Land wind comes and blows till 8 or 9 in the morning There are no Woods nor Marshes near Panama but a brave dry Champain land not subject to fogs nor mists The wet season begins in the latter end of May and continues till November At that time the Sea breezes are at S. S. W. and the Land winds at N. At the dry season the winds are most betwixt the E. N. E. and the North Yet off in the Bay they are commonly at South but of this I shall be more particular in my Chapter of Winds in the Appendix The rains are not so excessive about Panama it self as on either side of the Bay yet in the months of June July and August they are severe enough Gentlemen that come from Peru to Panama especially in these months cut their hair close to preserve them from Fevers for the place is sickly to them because they come out of a Country which never hath any Rains or Fogs but enjoys a constant serenity but I am apt to believe this City is healthy enough to any other people Thus much for Panama The 20th day we went and anchored within a league of the Islands Perico which are only 3 little barren rocky Islands in expectation of the President of Panama s Answer to the Letter I said we sent him by Don Diego treating about exchange of Prisoners this being the day on which he had given us his Parole to return with an Answer The 21st day we took another Baâ—…k laden with Hogs Fowl Salt Beef and Molossoes she came from Lavelia and was going to Panama In the afternoon we sent another Letter ashore by a young Mostiso a mixt brood of Indians and Europeans directed to the President and 3 or 4 Copies of it to be dispersed abroad among the common People This Letter which was full of Threats together with the young Man's managing the business wrought so powerfully among the common People that the City was in an uproar The President immediately sent a Gentleman aboard who demanded the Flower Prize that we took off of Gallo and all the Prisoners for the Ransom of our two Men but our Captains told him they would exchange Man for Man The Gentleman said he had not orders for that but if we would stay till the next day he would bring the Governours answer The next day he brought aboard our two Men and had about 40 Prisoners in exchange The 24th day we run over to the Island Tabago Tabago is in the Bay and about 6 leagues South of Panama It is about 3 mile long and 2 broad a high mountainous Island On the North side it declines with a gentle descent to the Sea The Land by the Sea is of a black Mold and deep but toward the top of the Mountain it is strong and dry The North side of this Island makes a very pleasant shew it seems to be a Garden of Fruit inclosed with many high Trees the chiefest Fruits are Plantains and Bonana's They thrive very well from the foot to the middle of it but those near the top are but small as wanting moisture Close by the Sea there are many Coco Nut Trees which make a very pleasant sight Within the Coco Nut Trees there grow many Mammet Trees The Mammet is a large tall and streight-bodied Tree clean without Knots or Limbs for 60 or 70 foot or more The Head spreads abroad into many small Limbs which grow pretty thick and close together The Bark is of a dark grey colour thick and rough full of large chops The Fruit is bigger than Quince it is round and covered with a thick Rind of a grey colour When the Fruit is ripe the Rind is yellow and tough and it will then peel off like Leather but before it is ripe it is brittle the Juice is then white and clammy but when ripe not so The ripe Fruit under the Rind is yellow as a Carret and in the middle are two large rough Stones flat and each of them much bigger than an Almond The Fruit smells very well and the taste is answerable to the smell The S. W. end of the Island hath never been cleared but is full of Fire-wood and Trees of divers sorts There is a very fine small Brook of fresh Water that springs out of the side of the Mountain and gliding through the Grove of Fruit-trees falls into the Sea on the North side There was a small Town standing by the Sea with a Church at one end but now the biggest part of it is destroyed by the Privateers There is good anchoring right against the Town about a mile from the shore where you may have 16 or 18 fathom Water soft oazy ground There is a small Island close by the N. W. end of this called Tabogilla which is a small Channel to pass between There is another woody Island about a mile on the N. E. side of Tabago and a good Channel between them this Island hath no Name that ever I heard While we lay at Tabago we had like to have had a scurvy trick plaid us by a pretended Merchant from Panama who came as by stealth to traffick with us privately a thing common enough with the Spanish Merchants both in the North and South Seas notwithstanding the severe Prohibitions of the Governours who yet sometimes connive at it and will even trade with the Privateers themselves Our Merchant was by agreement to bring out his Bark laden with Goods in the night and we to go and anchor at the South of Perico Out he came with a Fireship instead of a Bark and approached very near haling us with the Watch word we had agreed upon We suspecting the worst call d to them to come to an anchor and upon their not doing so fired at them when immediately their Men going out into the Canoas set fire to their Ship which blew up and burnt close by us so that we were forced to cut our Cables in all haste and scamper away as well as we could The Spaniard was not altogether so politick in appointing to meet us at Perico for there we had Sea-room whereas had he come thus upon us at Tabago the Land-wind bearing hard upon us as it did we must either have been burnt by the Fireship or upon loosing our Cables have been driven ashore But I suppose they chose Perico rather for the Scene of their Enterprize partly because they might there best sculk among the Islands and partly because if their Exploit fail d they could thence escape best from our Canoas to Panama but 2 leagues off During this Exploit Captain Swan whose Ship was less than ours and so not so much
to the Island Otoque This is another inhabited Island in the Bay of Panama not so big as Tabago yet there are good Plantain Walks on it and some Negroes to look after them These Negroes rear Fowls and Hogs for their Masters who live at Panama as at the Kings Islands It was for some Fowls or Hogs that our Men went thither but by accident they met also with an Express that was sent to Panama with an account that the Lima Fleet was at Sea Most of the Letters were thrown over board and lost yet we found some that said positively that the Fleet was coming with all the strength that they could make in the Kingdom of Peru yet were ordered not to fight us except they were forced to it though afterwards they chose to fight us having first landed their Treasure at Lavelia and that the Pilots of Lima had been in consultation what course to steer to miss us For the satisfaction of those who may be curious to know I have here inserted the Resolutions taken by the Commitee of Pilots as one of our company translated them out of the Spanish of two of the Letters we took The first Letter as follows SIR HAving been with his Excellency and heard the Letter of Captain Michael Sanches de Tena read wherein he says there should be a meeting of the Pilots of Panama in the said City they say t is not time putting for objection the Gallapagoes to which I answered that it was fear of the Enemy and that they might well go that way I told this to his Excellency who was pleased to command me to write the Course which is as follows The day for sailing being come go forth to the West South West from that to West till you are forty leagues off at Sea then keep at the same distance to the N. W. till you come under the Line from whence the Pilot must shape his Course for Moro de Porco and for the Coast of Lavelia and Natta where you may speak with the people and according to the information they give you may keep the same Course for Otoque from thence to Tabago and so to Panama this is what offers as to the Course The Letter is obscure but the Reader must make what he can of it The Directions in the other Letter were to this Effect THE surest Course to be observed going forth from Malabrigo is thus you must sail W. by S. that you may avoid the sight of the Islands of Lobos and if you should chance to see them by reason of the Breezes and should fall to Leeward of the Lat. of Malabrigo keep on a Wind as near as you can and if necessary go about and stand in for the shore then tack and stand off and be sure keep your Latitude and when you are 40 leagues to the Westward of the Islands Lobos keep that distance till you come under the Line and then if the general Wind follows you farther you must sail N. N. E. till you come into 3 degrees North. And if in this Lat. you should find the breezes make it your business to keep the Coast and so sail for Panama If in your course you should come in sight of the Land before you are abrest of Cape St. Francisco be sure to stretch off again out of sight of Land that you may not be discovered by the Enemy The last Letter supposes the Fleet 's setting out from Malabrigo in about 8 deg South Lat. as the other doth its going immediately from Lima 4 deg further South and from hence is that caution given of avoiding Lobos as near Malabrigo in their usual way to Panama and hardly to be kept out of sight as the Winds are thereabouts yet to be avoided by the Spanish Fleet at this time because as they had twice before heard of the Privateers lying at Lobos de la Mar they knew not but at that time we might be there in expectation of them The 10th day we sailed from Tabago towards the Kings Islands again because our Pilots told us that the Kings Ships did always come this way The 11th day we anchored at the place where we careen'd Here we found Captain Harris who had gone a second time into the River of Santa Maria and fetched the body of Men that last came over land as the Indians had informed us but they fell short of the number they told us of The 19th day we sent 250 Men in 15 Canoas to the River Cheapo to take the Town of Cheapo The 21st day all our Ships but Captain Harris who staid to clean his Ship followed after The 22d day we arrived at the Island Chepelio Chepelio is the pleasantest Island in the Bay of Panama It is but 7 leagues from the City of Panama and a league from the Main This Island is about 2 mile long and almost so broad it is low on the North side and riseth by a small ascent towards the South side The Soil is yellow a kind of clay The high side is stony the low Land is planted with all sorts of delicate Fruits viz. Sapadilloes Avogato-pears Mammees Mammee-Sappota's Star-apples c. The middle of the Island is planted with Plantain Trees which are not very large but the Fruit extraordinary sweet The Sapadillo Tree is as big as a large Pear-tree The Fruit much like a Bergamo-pear both in colour shape and size but on some Trees the Fruit is a little longer When it is green or first gathered the juice is white and clammy and it will stick like glew then the Fruit is hard but after it hath been gathered 2 or 3 days it grows soft and juicy and then the juice is clear as Spring-water and very sweet In the midst of the Fruit are 2 or 3 black stones or seeds about the bigness of the Pumkin seed This is an excellent Fruit. The Avogato Pear-tree is as big as most Pear-trees and is commonly pretty high the skin or bark black and pretty smooth the leaves large of an oval shape and the Fruit as big as a large Lemon It is of a green colour till it is ripe and then it is a little yellowish They are seldom fit to eat till they have been gathered 2 or 3 days then they become soft and the skin or rind will peel off The substance in the inside is green or a little yellowish and as soft as Butter Within the substance there is a stone as big as a Horse-plumb This Fruit hath no taste of its self and therefore 't is usually mixt with Sugar and Lime-juice and beaten together in a Plate and this is an excellent dish The ordinary way is to eat it with a little Salt and a rosted Plantain and thus a man that 's hungry may make a good meal of it It is very wholsome eaten any way It is reported that this Fruit provokes to lust and therefore is said to be much esteemed by the Spaniards and I do believe they are
for a place to careen in and the 16th day we entered the Harbour and immediately provided to careen Some Men were set to fell great Trees to saw into Plank others went to unrigging the Ship some made a House to put our Goods in and for the Sailmaker to work in The Country People resorted to us and brought us of the fruits of the Island with Hogs and sometimes Turtle for which they received Rice in exchange which we had a Ship load of taken at Manila We bought of them also a good quantity of their pitchy Liquor which we boyled and used about our Ships bottom We mixed it first with Lime which we made here and it made an excellent coat and stuck on very well We staid in this Harbour from the 16th day of March tiil the 16th day of April in which time we made a new Suit of Sails of the Cloath that was taken in the Prize We cut a spare Main-top-mast and sawed Plank to sheath the Ships bottom for she was not sheathed all over at Mindanao and that old Plank that was left on then we now ript off and clapt on new While we lay here 2 of our men dyed who were poysoned at Mindanao they told us of it when they found themselves poyson'd and had lingred ever since They were open d by our Doctor according to their own request before they dyed and their Livers were black light and dry like pieces of Cork Our business being finished here we left the Spanish Prize taken at Manila and most of the Rice taking out enough for our selves and on the 17th day we went from hence to the place where we first Anchored on the North side of the great Island purposely to water for there was a great stream when we first came to the Island and we thought it was so now But we found it dryed up only it stood in holes 2 or 3 Hogsheads or a Tun in a hole Therefore we did immediately cut Bamboos and made Spouts through which we conveyed the Water down to the Sea-side by taking it up in Bowls and pouring it into these Spouts or Troughs We conveyed some of it thus near half a mile While we were filling our Water Captain Read engaged an old man one of the Inhabitants of this Island the same who I said could speak the Malayan Language to be his Pilot to the Bay of Siam for he had often been telling us that he was well acquainted there and that he knew some Islands there where there were Fishermen lived who he thought could supply us with Salt-fish to eat at Sea for we had nothing but Rice to eat The Easterly Monsoon was not yet done therefore it was concluded to spend some time there and then take the advantage of the beginning of the Western Monsoon to return to Manila again The 21st day of April 1687 we sailed from Pulo Condore directing our course W. by S. for the Bay of Siam We had fair weather and a fine moderate gale of Wind at E. N. E. The 23d day we arrived at Pulo Uby or the Island Uby This Island is about 40 leagues to the Westward of Pulo Condore it lies just at the entrance of the Bay of Siam at the S. W. point of Land that makes the Bay namely the point of Cambodia This Island is about 7 or 8 leagues round and it is higher Land than any of Pulo Condore Isles Against the South East part of it there is a small Key about a Cables length from the main Island This Pulo Uby is very woody and it has good Water on the North side where you may anchor but the best anchoring is on the East side against a small Bay then you will have the little Island to the Southward of you At Pulo Uby we found two small Barks laden with Rice They belonged to Cambodia from whence they came not above two or three days before and they touched here to fill Water Rice is the general food of all these Countries therefore it is transported by Sea from one Country to another as Corn is in these parts of the World For in some Countries they produce more than enough for themseves and send what they can spare to those places where there is but little The 24th day we went into the Bay of Slam This is a large deep Bay of which and of this Kingdom I shall at present speak but little because I design a more particular account of all this Coast to wit of Tunquin Cochinchina Siam Champa Cambodia and Malacca making all the most Easterly part of the Continent of Asia lying South of China but to do it in the course of this Voyage would too much swell this Volume and I shall chuse therefore to give a separate relation of what I know or have learnt of them together with the Neighbouring parts of Sumatra Java c. where I have spent some time We run down into the Bay of Siam till we came to the Islands that our Pulo Condore Pilot told us of which lye about the middle of the Bay but as good a Pilot as he was he run us aground yet we had no damage Captain Read went ashore at these Islands where he found a small Town of Fishermen but they had no Fish to sell and so we returned empty We had yet fair weather and very little wind so that being often becalmed we were till the 13th day of May before we got to Pulo Uby again There we found two small Vessels at an anchor on the East side They were laden with Rice and Laquer which is used in Japaning of Cabinets One of these come from Champa bound to the Town of Malacca which belongs to the Dutch who took it from the Portuguese and this shews that they have a Trade with Champa This was a very pretty neat Vessel her bottom very clean and curiously coated she had about 40 men all armed with Cortans or broad Swords Lances and some Guns that went with a swivel upon their Gunnals They were of the Idolaters Natives of Champa and some of the briskest most sociable without fearfulness or shyness and the most neat and dexterous about their Shipping of any such I have met with in all my Travels The other Vessel came from the River of Cambodia and was bound towards the Streights of Malacca Both of them stopt here for the Westerly winds now began to blow which were against them being somewhat belated We anchored also on the East side intending to fill Water While we lay here we had very violent Winds at S. W. and a strong current setting right to Windward The fiercer the Wind blew the more strong the current set against it This storm lasted till the 20th day and then it began to abate The 21st day of May we went back from hence towards Pulo Condore In our way we overtook a great Jonk that came from Palimbam a Town on the Island Sumatra She was full laden with Pepper
aboard for 20 or 30 leagues farther if the winds did not favour us for the Sea Winds were now at N. W. This day we kept near the shore and the night ensuing but the next day the Wind coming at N. and N. N. E. we stood over for Sumatra and the next evening we past by Diamond Point and the wind coming at E. N. E. we got in about two days more to Achin about the end of November 1689. Here we found Mr Coventry who had got hither 2 or 3 days before us Captain Minchin went ashore with his Passengers and was discharged of his Command I kept aboard till all the goods were unladen and then lay ashore and was very sick for a sortnight of a kind of Fever But after Christmas I was sent aboard again by order of Mr Coventry who had then bought out Mr Dalton's and Capt. Tiler's shares to take charge of the Vessel which he then laded with Pepper Cubebs which I think grow somewhere in Sumatra and Tutanegg which he bought of an English Vessel that came from Queda to Achin and with these he had also some of our Malacca Cargo which we kept on board viz. Rattans and Walking-canes With this Cargo we were bound for Fort St. George We took in also two English Passengers who had escap'd out of Prison in the Mogul's Country The one belong'd to the Defence Captain Heath's Ship which I came home to England in afterwards he was Purser of it the other was Midship man in the Princess Anne which return'd to England at the same time But during our War with the Mogul these Ships had been in the Bay of Bengal to fetch away our effects from the R. of Hugly These 2 men with 2 or 3 others went ashore upon some occasion and were taken Prisoners by the Mogul's Subjects who sent them a great way up into the Country where they were kept in close Custody and often threatned with Death The old Anabob or Governour of the Province being remov'd and a new one coming thither he released these men and gave them leave to go to the Sea side where finding a Dutch Ship bound to Batavia these 2 and one more went aboard her the rest getting other passage but she meeting with that English Ship coming from Queda which brought the Tutanegg I but now mention'd to Achin they left the Dutch Ship and went to Achin with the other English Vessel and those 2 were now for going with us to Fort St George 'T was about New-years day 1690. that we set out from Achin again We steered away toward the Nicobar Islands and came in sight of that which I had formerly been set ashore upon But leaving it on our Star-board we stood more Northerly up into the Bay for by Mr Coventry I had learnt there were Northerly and North Easterly Winds in the Bay at this time of year We stood over therefore as high as Pallacat and having then a fair North East Wind we run along the Coast till we came before Fort St George which was about the middle of January I was much pleased with the Beautiful prospect this place makes off at Sea For it stands in a plain Sandy spot of Ground close by the shore the Sea sometimes washing its Walls which are of Stone and high with Half Moons and Flankers and a great many Guns mounted on the Battlements so that what with the Walls and fine Buildings within the Fort the large Town of Maderas without it the Pyramids of the English Tombs Houses and Gardens adjacent and the variety of fine Trees scatter'd up and down it makes as agreeable a Landskip as I have any where seen But 't is not my design to enter into a Description of a place so well known to my Country-men as this is It may suffice to have mentioned it and that after some months stay here and meeting with Mr Moody and Jeoly the painted Prince I prepared to go for Sumatra again to Bencouli as I have said in my former Vol. p. 512. I set out from Fort St George with Captain Howel in July 1690. we steered a pretty way along the Coast of Coromandel before we stood over for Sumatra and then made the best of our way for Bencouli I have in that Volume spoken of my Arrival there but having given no account of the place I shall do it briefly now and so shut up this Supplement Bencouli lyes on the West Coast of the Island of Sumatra in about 4 d. S. Lat. It is a place noted enough at Sea by reason of a high slender Hill in the Country It has a small Island before it within which Ships ride The point of Sillabar lies 2 or 3 leagues to the Southward of it and runs out farther than any part of the shore making a small bay within it Besides these marks when you come within 2 or 3 Leagues of the shore you 'll see the English Fort fronting to the Sea which makes a fine show On the N. W. of the Fort is a small River at the mouth of which is a large Store-house to put Pepper in About a quarter of a mile from the Sea stands a small Indian Village close by the River on the same side that the Fort is on and but a small distance from it The Houses are small and low all built on posts after the Malayan manner as at Mindanao and Achin for 't is a Swamp that the Town stands on but the Malayans usually choose to build in such low places near Rivers for the convenience of washing themselves which they greatly delight in as 't is indeed a part of their Religion as Mahometans and if they can they will have their Houses stand on posts over the River The Weather here is none of the pleasantest There are great Rains chiefly in September October and November and pretty great heats But when the Wind blew hard which 't would often do the Air would be chill and the Sea-breezes in fair weather were generally pretty fresh and comfortable The Land Winds coming over Swamps usually brought a stink with them 'T is in general an unhealthy place and the Soldiers of the Fort were sickly and died very fast On the South side of the Fort is a fair champion Savannah of a mile or 2 Square called Greenhil It produces long thick Grass the N W. part of it fronts the Sea and the S. E. is bounded with lofty Woods The Soil of this Country is very different according to its different position for within Land 't is hilly yet those hills are cloathed with Trees which shews it to be fruitful enough The low Land near the River especially near the Sea is swampy producing nothing but Reeds or Bamboes but the higher ground which is of a reasonable heigth is very fruitful The mould is deep and is either black or yellow and in some places clay or such mould as is very proper for making Bricks The Trees in the Woods are mostly
the Sea or the Lagunes is Mangrovy and always wet but at a little distance from it it is fast and firm and never over-flowed but in the wet Season The Soil is a strong yellowish Clay But yet the upper Coat or surface is a black mould tho' not deep Here grow divers sorts of Trees of no great bulk nor height Among these the Logwood-Trees thrive best and are very plentiful this being the most proper Soil for them for they do not thrive in dry Ground neither shall you see any growing in rich black mould They are much like our white Thorns in England but generally a great deal bigger the Rind of the young growing Branches is white and smooth with some prickles shooting forth here and there So that an English-man not knowing the difference would take them for White-Thorns but the Body and the old Branches are blackish the Rind rougher with few or no prickles The Leaves are small and shaped like the Common White-Thorn-Leaf of a palish Green We always chuse to cut the old black-rinded Trees for these have less sap and require but little pains to chip or cut it The sap is white and the heart red The heart is used much for dying therefore we chip off all the white sap till we come to the heart and then it is fit to be transported to Europe After it has been chip'd a little while it turns black and if it lyes in the VVater it dyes it like Ink and sometimes it has been used to write with Some Trees are 5 or 6 Foot in Circumference and these we can scarce cut into Logs small enough for a Man's Burthen without great Labour and therefore are forced to blow them up It is a very ponderous sort of wood and burns very well making a clear strong fire and very lasting VVe always harden the Steels of our Fire-Arms when they are faulty in a Logwood-fire if we can get it but otherways as I said before with Burton-wood or the Grape-tree The true Logwood I think grows only in this Country of Jucatan and even there but only in some Places near the Sea The chiefest places for it are either here or at Cape Catoch and on the South side of Jucatan in the Bay of Honduras There are other sorts of VVood much like it in colour and used for dying also Some more esteemed others of lesser value Of these sorts Bloodwood and Stock-fish-wood are of the natural growth of America The Gulph of Nicaragua which opens against the Isle of Providence is the only Place that I know in the North Seas that produces the Blood-wood And the Land on the other side of the Country against it in the South Seas produceth the same sorts This Wood is of a brighter red than the Logwood It was sold for 30 l. per Tun when Logwood was but at 14 or 15 and at the same time Stock-Fish-Wood went at 7 or 8. This last sort grows in the Country near Rio la Hacha to the East of St. Martha by the sides of Rivers in the Low-Land It is a smaller sort of Wood than the former I have seen a Tree much like the Logwood in the River of Conception in the Sambaloes and I know it will dye but whether it be either of these two sorts I know not Besides here and in the places before-mentioned I have not met with any such Wood in America At Cherburg near Sierra-Leone in Africa there is Camwood which is much like Blood-wood if not the same And at Tunqueen in the East Indies there is also such another sort I have not heard of any more in any part of the World But to proceed The Land as you go farther from the Sea riseth still somewhat higher and becomes of a more plantable Mould There the Trees are generally of another sort growing higher and taller than the Logwood-trees or any near them Beyond this you still enter into large Savannahs of long Grass two or three Miles wide in some Places much more The Mould of the Savannahs is generally black and deep producing a course sort of sedgy Grass In the latter end of the dry time we set fire to it which runs like Wild-fire and keeps burning as long as there is any Fewel unless some good shower of Rain puts it out Then presently springs up a new green Crop which thrives beyond all belief The Savannahs are bounded on each side with Ridges of higher Land of a light-brown Colour deep and very fruitful producing extraordinary great high Trees The Land for 10 or 20 Miles from the Sea is generally compos'd of many Ridges of delicate wood-Wood-land and large Furrows of pleasant grassy Savannahs alternately intermixed with each other The Animals of this Country are Horses Bullocks Deer Warree Pecary Squashes Possums Monkies Ant-Bears Sloths Armadilloes Porcupines Land-turtle Guanoes and Lizards of all kinds The Squash is a four-footed Beast bigger than a Cat It 's Head is much like a Foxes with short Ears and a long Nose It has pretty short Legs and sharp Claws by which it will run up Trees like a Cat. The Skin is coverd with short fine yellowish Hair The flesh of it is good sweet wholesom Meat We commonly skin and roast it and then we call it Pig and I think it eats as well It feeds on nothing but good Fruit therefore we find them most among the Sapadillo-Trees This Creature never rambles very far and being taken young will become as tame as a Dog and be as roguish as a Monkey The Monkies that are in these Parts are the ugliest I ever saw They are much bigger than a Hare and have great Tails about two foot and half long The under-side of their Tails is all bare with a black hard skin but the upper side and all the Body is covered with course long black staring Hair These Creatures keep together 20 or 30 in a Company and ramble over the Woods leaping from Tree to Tree If they meet with a single Person they will threaten to devour him When I have been alone I have been afraid to shoot them especially the first time I met them They were a great Company dancing from Tree to Tree over my Head chattering and making a terrible Noise and a great many grim Faces and shewing Antick Gestures Some broke down dry Sticks and threw at me others scattered their Urine and Dung about my Ears at last one bigger than the rest came to a small Limb just over my Head and leaping directly at me made me start back but the Monkey caught hold of the Bough with the tip of his Tail and there continued swinging to and fro and making Mouths at me At last I past on they still keeping me Company with the like menacing Postures till I came to our Huts The Tails of these Monkies are as good to them as one of their Hands and they will hold as fast by them If two or more of us were together they would hasten from us
especially about Cape Blanco for that lyes more exposed than the other 2 and if there is any Current as commonly the Spaniards are a long time getting about sometimes a Fortnight or 3 VVeeks and when they have split their Sails which are seldom very good they run back to Guiaquill to mend them again We found it hard getting about tho' our Sails were good and I think we could work our Ships better than the Spaniards are ever able to do in those Seas I have already given several Instances of such Places as have no Land-VVinds or at least but very ordinary ones I shall next proceed in order to shew where the strongest or best Land-VVinds are met with and then I shall speak of those Places where there blows a moderate and indifferent Gale between both Extreams That so any one may judge by the Lying of the Land whether it may afford a good Land-wind or no. The briskest Land-winds are commonly in deep Bays in great Lakes within Land and among great Ranges of Islands or small Keys that lye near the shore I shall give Instances of all these And as for Bays I shall first pitch on the Bay of Campeachy which lies between Cape Condecedo and the High-Land of St. Martin between both these Places the Land-winds are as brisk 2 or 3 Leagues off at Sea as in any Place that I know In the Cod or Middle of the Bay the Land trends from East to VVest there the Sea-Breezes are at North and the Land-winds at South they commonly begin to blow at 7 or 8 a Clock in the Evening and continue till 8 or 9 the next Morning in the dry Season especially In that Bay there is an Island call'd by the English Beef-Island from the multitude of Bulls and Cows that inhabit it The smell of these wild Cattle is driven off to Sea by the Land-winds so fresh that by it Masters of Ships sailing in the Night on this Coast have known where they were and have presently anchored that Night and come into the Island of Trist the next Day whereas they would otherwise have past farther to the VVestward quite out of their way if they had not smell'd the strong scent of these Cattle So all the bottom of the Bay of Mexico even from the High-Land of St. Martin down to Lavera Cruz and from thence Northerly towards the River Meschasipi affords good Land-winds and Sea-breezes The Bay of Honduras also and almost all the Coast between it and Cape la Vela affords the like allowing for the Capes and Points of Land which lye between where it fails more or less as the Points do lye more or less exposed to the Sea-Breezes So in the South Seas the Bays of Panama Guiaquil Paita c. have their fresh Land-winds and Sea-breezes But in some Places as particularly at Paita the Land-winds do not spring up till 12 a Clock in the Night but then are always very fresh and last till 7 or 8 the next Morning and they are constant all the Year long VVhereas in the Bay of Panama and also in all the Bays and Coasts of the other or North side of America already described they are not so constant in the wet Season as they are in the dry The Bay of Campeachy will also afford us Instances of the Land-winds that blow in Lagunes As for instance the Lagune of Trist which is about 9 or 10 Leagues long and 3 broad is barricadoed from the Sea by the Island of Trist. There the Land-winds blow in the dry Season from 5 or 6 a Clock in the Evening till 9 or 10 in the Morning There are two other Lagunes lying within that and parted from it by low Mangrove-Land there the Land-winds are fresher and the Sea-Breeze duller and of a less continuance than in the Lagune of Trist. Nay sometimes the Land-wind blows all Day so in the Lagune of Maracaybo to VVind-ward of Cape Alta Vela the Land-winds are very fresh and lasting The like may be said of the Lagune of Venizuella or Comana Sometimes in the fore-mentioned Lagunes the Land-winds do blow for 3 or 4 Days and Nights together scarce suffering the Sea-Breez to breath there though at the same time the Sea-Breez may blow fresh out at Sea and if the Sea-Breez at such times should make a bold Sally into these Lagunes it would be but of a short continuance On the other hand at Capes and Head-Lands more exposed to Sea-Breezes the Land-winds are shier of coming there than the Sea-winds are into Lagunes Neither may we forget the Harbour of Jamaica for there are very good Land-winds It is compassed in on one side with a long Neck of Sand and many small Islands at the mouth of it and within there is a pretty deep Lake in which are constant Sea and Land-winds by which the VVherry-men run with full sail both to Legamy or Passage-Fort from the Town and back again They go away with the Sea-Breez and return with the Land-wind There fore Passengers that have occasion to go either way wait for the coming of these VVinds except their Business requires hast for then they are rowed against the Breez and though the Land-winds do sometimes fail or come very late yet the VVherries seldom stay beyond their constant Hours of 7 or 8 a Clock and sometimes the Land-winds do come by 3 or 4 but when they come so early it is commonly after a Tornado from the Land This may suffice as to the Land-winds in Lakes or Bays As to what may be spoken concerning the Land-winds among Islands I shall only mention 2 Places both of them in the West Indies the first are the Keys of Cuba which are abundance of small Islands bordering on the South side of Cuba reaching in length from East to VVest or near those Points as the Island lies about 70 Leagues and in some Places reaching near 20 Leagues from the said Island Among these Islands even from the outermost of them quite home to Cuba there are very brisk Land-winds They spring up early in the Evening and blow late in the Morning The Jamaica Turtlers visit these Keys with good success for Turtle all the Year long and from thence bring most of their Turtle wherewith the Market of Port-Royal is served The other Islands I shall mention are the Sambaloe Islands betwixt Cape Samblass and Golden Island though they are not so large a Range as the Keys of Cuba yet do they afford very good Land-winds near as good as the Keys of Cuba do And thus much for the Places where the best as well as where the scantiest or faintest Land-winds are found I shall next give some Instances of the Medium between both Extreams I have already shewn that Capes and such Head-Lands as lye out farthest from the rest of the shore are thereby most exposed to the Sea-winds and consequently the Land-winds are there much fainter than in other Places especially in deep Bays or Lagunes within Land or
the Eastermost Land of the Continent of America The one has only an eddy Wind which seems to me to be the Effect of two contrary Winds The other Coast lies open to the Trade and never wants a Breez And the former is troubled with Tornadoes and violent Rains during the wet Season which is May June July August and September but the extreamest wet Months are July and August when it rains in a manner continually April and October also sometimes are wet Months The other Coast on the American Continent which lyes open to the E. and N. E. or S. E. and which enjoys the freer Trade-Wind is less subject to Rain only as it lyes near the Line it has its part but not to excess nor in any comparison with Guinea And as the Line is to the N. of it so its wet Months are from October till April and the dry Season from April to October And these Seasons reach even to 6 or 7 degrees North of the Line which I do not know to be so in any other part of the World again Indeed Cape Lopes in Guinea is in one degree South yet participates of the same Weather that the rest of Guinea has which lies to the North of the Line Now the Reason why Europeans do account the dry Season Summer and the wet Season Winter is because the dry Season is their Harvest time especially in our Plantations where we chiefly make Sugar for then the Canes are as yellow as Gold They have then indeed less juce but that little there is is very sweet Whereas in the wet Season tho' the Canes are ripe and come to their Maturity yet do they not yield such quantities of Sugar neither is it so good though the pains in boiling it be also greater Therefore in Northern Climates as all our Plantations are in they commonly begin to work about making of Sugar at Christmas after the dry Season has brought the Canes to a good perfection But in South Climates as on the Coast of Brazil they begin to work in July Some Places there are in North Latitudes also near the Line where the Weather bears time with the Seasons in South Lat. as at Suranam which tho' it is in North Latitude yet are the Seasons there the same as in South Latitudes but I know not such another instance any where And though the dry Season is the time to gather in the Canes and the wet Season to plant yet are they not so limited as to make use only of these Seasons for either but do it chiefly for their best convenience for they may plant at any time of the Year and that with good success especially after a moderate shower of Rain which often happens even in the dry Seasons But I must proceed I have said before that Bays have greater Quantities of Rain than Head-Lands The Bay of Campeachy is a good Instance of this for the Rains are very great there especially in the Months of July and August On the contrary the Coast from Cape Catoch to Cape Condecedo which lies more exposed to the Trade has not near the Rains as the Bay of Campeachy hath The Bay of Honduras also is very wet and all that bending Coast from Cape Gratia de Dios even to Carthagena But on the Coast of Carraccos and about Cape La Vela where the Breezes are more brisk the Weather is more moderate Whereas in those little Bays between there is still a difference For in the Bay of Mericaya which lies a little to the East of Cape La Vela there is much more Rain than at or near the Cape The Bay of Panama also will furnish us with a proof of this by its immoderate Rains especially the South side of it even from the Gulph of St. Michael to Cape St. Francis the Rains there are from April till November but in June July and August they are most violent There are many small Bays also West from the Bay of Panama which have their shares of these wet Seasons as the Gulph of Dulce Caldera Bay Amapala c. but to the West of that where the Coast runs more plain and even there are not such wet Seasons yet many times very violent Tornadoes The East Indies also has many Bays that are subject to very violent Rains as the Bay of Tonqueen that of Siam the bottom and the East side of the Bay of Bengall But on the Coast of Coromandel which is the West side of that Bay the Weather is more moderate that being an even plain low Coast. But on the Coast of Mallabar which is on the West side of that Promontory the Land is high and mountainous there are violent Rains Indeed the West sides of any Continents are wetter than the East sides the Coast of Peru and Africa only excepted in the former of which the dryness may be occasioned as is said before by the height of the Andes And 't is probable that the violence of the Rains near those Mountains falls chiefly on the East sides of them and seldom reaches to their Tops which yet if the Rains do they may there be broke in pieces and reach no further For among other Observations I have taken notice that Mountains are supplied with more Rains than low Lands I mean the low Land bordering on the Sea As for instance the South side of Jamaica beginning at Leganea and from thence away to the Westward as far as Black River including all the plain Land and Savannahs about St. Jago de la Vega Old Harbour and Withy wood Savannahs This is a plain level Country for many Miles lying near East and West having the Sea on the South and bounded with Mountains on the North. Those Mountains are commonly supplied with Rain before the low Lands I have known the Rains to have begun there three Weeks before any has fallen in the plain Country bordering on the Sea yet every day I have observed very black Clouds over the Mountains and have heard it thunder there And those very Clouds have seemed by their Motion to draw towards the Sea but have been check'd in their Course and have either returned towards the Mountains again or else have spent themselves before they came from thence and so have vanished away again to the great grief of the Planters whose Plantations and Cattle have sufferd for want of a little Moisture Nay these Tornadoes have been so nigh that the Sea Breez has dyed away and we have had the Wind fresh out of the Clouds yet they have vanished and yielded no Rain to the low parch'd Lands And I think that the want of seasonable Showrs is one of the greatest Inconveniencies that this part of the Country suffers for I have known in some very dry Years that the Grass in the Savannahs has been burned and withered for want of Rain and the Cattle have perished thereby for want of Food The Plantations also have suffered very much by it but such dry Seasons
and those of our Colonies abroad yet without neglecting others that occurr'd And it may suffice me to have given such Names and Descriptions as I could I shall leave to those of more leisure and opportunity the trouble of comparing these with those which other Authors have designed The Reader will find as he goes along some References to an Appendix which I once designed to this Book as to a Chapter about the Winds in different parts of the World to a Description of the Bay of Campeachy in the West Indies where I lived long in a former Voyage and to a particular Chorographical Description of all the South Sea Coast of America partly from a Spanish MSS and partly from my own and other Travellers Observations beside those contained in this Book But such an Appendix would have swelled it too unreasonably and therefore I chose rather to publish it hereafter by its self as opportunity shall serve And the same must be said also as to a particular Voyage from Achin in the Isle of Sumatra to Tonquin Malacca c. which should have been inserted as a part of this General one but it would have been too long and therefore omitting it for the present I have carried on this next way from Sumatra to England and so made the Tour of the World correspondent to the Title For the better apprehending the Course of the Voyage and the Situation of the Places mentioned in it I have caused several Maps to be engraven and some particular Draughts of my own Composure Among them there is in the Map of the American Isthmus a new Scheme of the adjoining Bay of Panama and its Islands which to some may seem superfluous after that which Mr Ringrose hath published in the History of the Buccaneers and which he offers as a very exact Draught I must needs disagree with him in that and doubt not but this which I here publish will be found more agreeable to that Bay by any who shall have opportunity to examine it for it is a Contraction of a larger Map which I took from several Stations in the Bay itself The Reader may judge how well I was able to do it by my several Traverses about it mentioned in this Book those particularly which are described in the 7th Chapter which I have caused to be marked out with a pricked Line as the Course of my Voyage is generally in all the Maps for the Readers more easy tracing it I have nothing more to add but that there are here and there some mistakes made as to expression and the like which will need a favourable Correction as they occur upon Reading For instance the Log of Wood lying out at some distance from the sides of the Boats described at Guam and parallel to their Keel which for distinctions sake I have called the little Boat might more clearly and properly have been called the side Log or by some such Name for though fashioned at the bottom and ends Boat-wise yet it is not hollow at top but solid throughout In other places also I may not have expressed my self so fully as I ought and upon a Review I find there are several escapes either of mine or the Printers such as I have thought any thing considerable I have corrected in a Table of Errata and for any other faults I leave the Reader to the joint use of his Judgment and Candour THE CONTENTS THE Introduction containing the Author's Departure from England into the West Indies and the South Seas to the time of his leaving Captain Sharp Chap. I. His Return out of the South Seas to his Landing at the Isthmus of America II. His Return by Land over the Isthmus III. His Traverses among the West India Islands and Coasts and arrival in Virginia IV. His Departure for the South Seas again his touching at the Islands of Cape Verd and the African Coast and Arrival at the Isle of John Fernando in the South Seas V. His Course thence Northward to the Isles Lobos and Gallapagos to Caldera Bay Rio Lexa and Amapalla in the K. of Mexico VI. He goes back towards Peru to the Isle Plata Point Santa Hellena Manta Paita Lobos Puna Guiaquil and Plata again VII His Progress Northward again to the R. Saint Jago Tomaco the Isle Galleo I. Gorgonia the Pearl Isles c. in the Bay of Panama VIII He proceeds along the Mexican Coast to the Keys of Quibo Ria Lexa and the Harbour of Guatulco IX He Coasts along to Acapulco Petaplan Estapa Colima Sallagua Cape Corrientes thence to the Isles of Chametly Bay of Valderas Isles of Pontique other Isles of Chametly Massaclan Rosario R. Saint Jago Santa Pecaque Isles of Santa Maria Valderas and Cape Corrientes again X. He stands over the Southern Ocean for the East Indies and arrives at Guam one of the Ladrone Ishes XI His arrival at Mindanao one of the Philippine Islands and of its Natural State XII The Political State of Mindanao XIII Occurrences during the Authors stay at Mindanao XIV He departs towards Manila in the Isle of Luconia touching at Bat Island and the Isle of Mindora and leaving Luconia he goes to Pulo Condore on the Coast of Cambodia to Pulo Uby in the Bay of Siam and to Pulo Condore again XV. He goes to the I. of St. John on the Coast of China to the Isles Piscadores near Formosa and the Bashee or 5 Islands between Formosa and Luconia called Orange Monmouth Grafton Bashee and Goat Isles XVI He Coasts along the East side of Luconia Mindanao and other of the Philippines and touching at the I. Celebes and Callasusung in the I. of Bouton he arrives at New Holland XVII He goes thence touches at the I. Triste and another and steering along the West Coast of Sumatra arrives at the I. of Nicobar where he stays ashore and the Ship departs XVIII He stands ever from thence in an open Boat to Passange Jonca and thence to Achin and after several Traverses comes to Bencouli all on the I. of Sumatra XIX He Ships himself for England and arrives at the Cape of Good Hope XX. His departure thence to the I. Santa Hellena and Arrival in the Downs MAP OF THE WORLD Shewing the Course of M R DAMPIERS Voyage Round it From 1679 to 1691. Mr. William Dampier's VOYAGE ROUND THE Terrestrial Globe The Introduction The Authors Departure from England and arrival in Jamaica His first going over the Isthmus of America into the South Seas his Coasting along Peru and Chili and back again to his parting with Captain Sharp near the Isle of Plata in order to return over Land I First set out of England on this Voyage at the beginning of the year 1679 in the Loyal Merchant of London bound for Jamaica Captain Knapman Commander I went a Passenger designing when I came thither to go from thence to the Bay of Campeachy in the Gulph of Mexico to cut Log-wood where in a former Voyage I had spent
about three years in that employ and so was well acquainted with the place and the work We sailed with a prosperous gale without any impediment or remarkable passage in our Voyage unless that when we came in sight of the Island Hispaniola and were coasting along on the South side of it by the little Istes of Vacca or Ash I observed Captain Knapman was more vigilant than ordinary keeping at a good distance off shore for fear of coming too near those small low Islands as he did once in a voyage from England about the year 1673 losing his Ship there by the carelesness of his Mates But we succeeded better and arrived safe at Port Royal in Jamaica some time in April 1679 and went immediately ashore I had brought some goods with me from England which I intended to sell here and stock my self with Rum and Sugar Saws Axes Hats Stockings Shoes and such other Commodities as I knew would sell among the Compeachy Log-wood Cutters Accordingly I sold my English Cargo at Port Royal but upon some maturer considerations of my intended Voyage to Campeachy I changed my thoughts of that design and continued at Jamaica all that year in expectation of some other business I shall not trouble the Reader with my Observations at that Isle so well known to English men nor with the particulars of my own Affairs during my stay there But in short having there made a purchase of a small Estate in Dorsetshire near my Native Country of Somerset of one whose Title to it I was well assured of I was just embarking my self for England about Christmas 1679 when one Mr Hobby invited me to go first a short Trading Voyage to the Country of the Moskito's of whom I shall speak in my first Chapter I was willing to get up some money before my return having laid out what I had at Jamaica so I sent the Writing of my new purchase along with the same friends whom I should have accompanied to England and went on board Mr Hobby Soon after our setting out we came to an anchor again in Negril Bay at the West end of Jamaica but finding there Captain Coxon Sawkins Sharp and other Privateers Mr Hobby's men all left him to go with them upon an expedition they had contrived leaving not one with him beside my self and being thus left alone after 3 or 4 days stay with Mr Hobby I was the more easily perswaded to go with them too It was shortly after Christmas 1679 when we set out The first Expedition was to Portobel which being accomplished it was resolved to march by Land over the Isthmus of Darien upon some new Adventures in the South Seas Accordingly on the 5th of April 1680 we went ashore on the Isthmus near Golden Island one of the Sambaloes to the number of between 3 and 400 men carrying with us such Provisions as were necessary and Toys wherewith to gratify the Wild Indians through whose Country we were to pass In about nine days march we arrived at Sonta Maria and took it and after a stay there of about three days we went on to the South Sea Coast and there embarked our selves in such Canoas and Periago's us our Indian friends furnished us withal We were in sight of Panama by the 23d of April and having in vain attempted Paebla Nova before which Sawkins then Commander in chief and others were kill'd we made some stay at the Neighbouring Isles of Quibo Here we resolved to change our course and stand away to the Southward for the Coast of Peru. Accordingly we left the Keys or Isles of Quibo the 6th of June and spent the rest of the year in that Southern course for touching at the Isles of Gorgonia and Plata we came to Ylo a small Town on the Coast of Peru and took it This was in October and in November we went thence to Coquimbo on the same Coast and about Christmas were got as far as the Isle of John Fernando which was the farthest of our Course to the Southward After Christmas we went back again to the Northward having a design upon Arica a strong Town advantageously situated in the hollow of the Elbow or bending of the Peruvian Coast. But being there repulsed with great loss we continued our course Northward till by the middle of April we were come in sight of the Isle of Plata a little to the Southward of the Equinoctial Line I have related this part of my Voyage thus summarily and concisely as well because the World hath Accounts of it already in the relations that Mr Ringrose and others have given of Captain Sharp's Expedition who was made chief Commander upon Sawkins's being kill'd as also because in the prosecution of this Voyage I shall come to speak of these parts again upon occasion of my going the second time into the South Seas and shall t here describe at large the places both of the North and South America as they occurred to me And for this reason that I might avoid needless Repetitions and hasten to such particulars as the Publick hath hitherto had no account of I have chosen to comprize the Relation of my Voyage hitherto in this short compass and place it as an Introduction before the rest that the Reader may the better perceive where I mean to begin to be Particular for there I have plac'd the Title of my first Chapter All therefore that I have to add to the Introduction is this That while we lay at the Isle of John Fernando Captain Sharp was by general consent displaced from being Commander the Company being not satisfied either with his Courage or Behaviour In his stead Captain Watling was advanced but he being killed shortly after before Arica we were without a Commander during all the rest of our return towards Plata Now Watling being killed a great number of the meaner sort began to be as earnest for choosing Captain Sharp again into the vacancy as before they had been as forward as any to turn him out And on the other side the abler and more experienced men being altogether dissatisfied with Sharp's former Conduct would by no means consent to have him chosen In short by that time we were come in sight of the Island Plata the difference between the Contending Parties was grown so high that they resolved â—…o part Companies having first made an Agreement that which Party soever should upon Polling appear to have the Majority they should keep the Ship And the other should content themselves with the Lanch or Long-boat and Canoas and return back over the Isthmus or go to seek their fortune otherways as they would Accordingly we put it to the Vote and upon dividing Captain Sharp's party carried it I who had never been pleased with his management though I had hitherto kept my mind to my self now declared my self on the side of those that were Out-voted and according to our agreement we took our shares of such Necessaries as were
fit to carry over Land with us for that was our Resolution and so prepared for our Departure A Map of the ISTHMUS of DARIEN Bay of PANAMA THE TRAVELS OF Mr. William Dampier CHAP. I. An Account of the Author's Return out of the South Seas to his Landing near Cape St. Lawrence in the Isthmus of Darien With an Occasional Description of the Moskito Indians APril the 17th 1681. about Ten a Clock in the morning being 12 leagues N. W. from the Island Plata we left Captain Sharp and those who were willing to go with him in the Ship and imbarqued into our Lanch and Canoas designing for the River of Sancta Maria in the Gulf of St. Michael which is about 200 leagues from the Isle of Plata We were in number 44 white Men who bore Arms a Spanish Indian who bore Arms also and two Moskito Indians who always bear Arms amongst the Privateers and are much valued by them for striking Fish and Turtle or Tortoise and Manatee or Sea Cow and 5 Slaves taken in the South Seas who fell to our share The Craft which carried us was a Lanch or Long Boat one Canoa and another Canoa which had been sawn asunder in the middle in order to have made Bumkins or Vessels for carrying water if we had not separated from our Ship This we joyned together again and made it tight providing Sails to help us along And for 3 days before we parted we sifted so much Flower as we could well carry and rubb'd up 20 or 30 pound of Chocolate with Sugar to sweeten it these things and a Kettle the Slaves carried also on their backs after we landed And because there were some who designed to go with us that we knew were not well able to march we gave out that if any man faultred in the Journey over Land he must expect to be shot to death for we knew that the Spaniards would soon be after us and one man falling into their hands might be the ruin of us all by giving an account of our strength and condition yet this would not deter them from going with us We had but little Wind when we parted from the Ship but before 12 a Clock the Sea-breeze came in strong which was like to founder us before we got in with the shore for our security therefore we cut up an old dry Hide that we brought with us and barricadoed the Lanch all round with it to keep the water out About 10 a clock at night we got in about 7 leagues to windward of Cape Passao under the line and then it proved calm and we lay and drove all night being fatigued the preceeding day The 18th day we had little wind till the afternoon and then we made sail standing along the shore to the North-ward having the wind at S. S. W. and fair weather At 7 a clock we came a brest of Cape Passao and found a small Bark at an Anchor in a small Bay to Leeward of the Cape which we took our own Boats being too small to transport us We took her just under the Equinoctial Line she was not only a help to us but in taking her we were safe from being descried We did not design to have meddled with any when we parted with our Consorts nor to have seen any if we could have helped it The Bark came from Gallio laden with Timber and was bound for Guiaquill The 19th day in the morning we came to an anchor about 12 leagues to the Southward of Cape St. Francisco to put our new Bark into a better trim In 3 or 4 hours time we finished our business and came to sail again and steered along the Coast with the Wind at S. S. W. intending to touch at Gorgonia Being to the Northward of Cape St. Francisco we met with very wet weather but the Wind continuing we arrived at Gorgonia the 24th day in the morning before it was light we were afraid to approach it in the day time for fear the Spaniards should lye there for us it being the place where we careened lately and where they might expect us When we came ashore we found the Spaniards had been there to seek after us by a House they had built which would entertain 100 Men and a great Cross before the Door This was token enough that the Spaniards did expect us this way again therefore we examined our Prisoners if they knew any thing of it who confessed they had heard of a Pereago or large Canoa that rowed with 14 Oars which was kept in a River on the Main and once in 2 or 3 days came over to Gorgonia purposely to see for us and that having discovered us she was to make all speed to Panama with the news where they had 3 Ships ready to send after us We lay here all the day and scrubb'd our new Bark that if ever we should be chased we might the better escape we fill'd our Water and in the evening went from thence having the Wind at S. W. a brisk gale The 25th day we had much Wind and Rain and we lost the Canoa that had been cut and was join'd together we would have kept all our Canoas to carry us up the River the Bark not being so convenient The 27th day we went from thence with a moderate gale of Wind at S. W. In the afternoon we had excessive Showers of Rain The 28th day was very wet all the morning betwixt 10 and 11 it cleared up and we saw two great Ships about a league and half to the West-ward of us we being then two leagues from the shore and about 10 leagues to the Southward of point Garachina These Ships had been cruising between Gorgonia and the Gulf 6 month but whether our Prisoners did know it I cannot tell We presently furled our Sails and rowed in close under the shore knowing that they were Cruisers for if they had been bound to Panama this Wind would have carried them thither and no Ships bound from Panama come on this side the Bay but keep the North side of the Bay till as far as the Keys of Quibo to the Westward and then if they are bound to the Southward they stand over and may fetch Galleo or betwixt it and Cape St. Francisco The Glare did not continue long before it rained again and kept us from the sight of each other but if they had seen and chaced us we were resolved to run our Bark and Canoas ashore and take our selves to the Mountains and travel over Land for we knew that the Indians which lived in these parts never had any Commerce with the Spaniards so we might have had a chance for our Lives The 29th day at 9 a clock in the morning we came to an anchor at Point Garrachina about 7 leagues from the Gulf of St. Michael which was the place where we first came into the South Seas and the way by which we designed to return Here we lay all the
hang back for they think that the white men with whom they are know better than they do when it is best to fight and let the disadvantage of their party be never so great they will never yield nor give back while any of their party stand I could never perceive any Religion nor any Ceremonies or superstitious Observations among them being ready to imitate us in whatsoever they saw us do at any time Only they seem to fear the Devil whom they call Wallesaw and they say he often appears to some among them whom our men commonly call their Priests when they desire to speak with him on urgent business but the rest know not any thing of him nor how he appears otherwise than as these Priests tell them Yet they all say they must not anger him for then he will beat them and that sometimes he carries away these their Priests Thus much I have heard from some of them who speak good English They marry but one Wife with whom they live till death separates them At their first coming together the man makes a very small Plantation for there is Land enough and they may choose what spot they please They delight to settle near the Sea or by some River for the sake of striking Fish their beloved employment Far within Land there are other Indians with whom they are always at War After the man hath cleared a spot of Land and hath Planted it he seldom minds it afterward but leaves the managing of it to his Wife and he goes out a striking Sometimes he seeks only for Fish at other times for Turtle or Manatee and whatever he gets he brings home to his Wife and never stirs out to seek for more till it is all eaten When hunger begins to bite he either takes his Canoa and seeks for more game at Sea or walks out into the Woods and hunts about for Pecary Warree each a sort of Wild Hogs or Deer and seldom returns empty handed nor seeks for any more so long as any of it lasts Their Plantations are so small that they cannot subsist with what they produce for their largest Plantations have not above 20 or 30 Plantain-Trees a bed of Yames and Potatoes a bush of Indian Pepper and a small spot of Pine-apples which last fruit is a main thing they delight in for with these they make a sort of drink which our men call Pine-drink much esteemed by these Moskito's and to which they invite each other to be merry providing Fish and Flesh also Whoever of them makes of this Liquor treats his neighbours making a little Canoa full at a time and so enough to make them all drunk and it is seldom that such Feasts are made but the party that makes them hath some design either to be revenged for some injury done him or to debate of such differences as have happen'd between him and his neighbours and to examine into the truth of such matters Yet before they are warmed with drink they never speak one word of their grievances and the women who commonly know their husbands designs prevent them from doing any injury to each other by hiding their Lances Harpoons Bows and Arrows or any other Weapon that they have These Moskitoes are in general very civil and kind to the English of whom they receive a great deal of respect both when they are aboard their Ships and also ashore either in Jamaica or elsewhere whither they often come with the Sea-men We always humour them letting them go any whither as they will and return to their Country in any Vessel bound that way if they please They will have the management of themselves in their striking and will go in their own little Canoa which our men could not go in without danger of oversetting nor will they then let any white man come in their Canoa but will go a striking in it just as they please All which we allow them For should we cross them tho they should see Shoals of Fish or Turtle or the like they will purposely strike their Harpoons and Turtle-irons aside or so glance them as to kill nothing They have no form of Government among them but acknowledge the King of England for their Sovereign They learn our Language and they take the Governor of Jamaica to be one of the greatest Princes in the World While they are among the English they wear good Cloaths and take delight to go neat and tight but when they return again to their own Country they put by all their Cloaths and go after their own Country fashion wearing only a small piece of Linnen tyed about their wastes hanging down to their knees CHAP. II. The Author's Land Journey from the South to the North-Sea over the Terra-Firma or Isthmus of Darien BEing landed May the 1st we began our march about 3 a Clock in the Afternoon directing our course by our Pocket Compasses N. E. and having gone about 2 miles we came to the foot of a hill where we built small Hutts and lay all night having excessive Rains till 12 a Clock The 2d day in the morning having fair weather we ascended the hill and found a small Indian path which we followed till we found it run too much Easterly and then doubting it would carry us out of our way we climb'd some of the highest Trees on the Hill which was not meanly furnished with as large and tall Trees as ever I saw At length we discovered some Houses in a Valley on the North side of the Hill but it being steep could not descend on that side but followed the small path which led us down the Hill on the East side where we presently found several other Indian Houses The first that we came to at the foot of the Hill had none but women at home who could not speak Spanish but gave each of us a good Calabash or Shell full of Corn-drink The other Houses had some men at home but none that spoke Spanish yet we made a shift to buy such food as their Houses or Plantations afforded which we drest and eat all together having all sorts of our Provision in common because none should live better than others or pay dearer for any thing than it was worth This day we had marched 6 mile In the evening the Husbands of those women came home and told us in broken Spanish that they had been on board of the Guard Ship which we fled from two days before that we were now not above three mile from the mouth of the River of Congo and that they could go from thence aboard the Guard Ship in half a Tydes time This evening we supped plentifully on Fowls and Pecary a sort of Wild Hogs which we bought of the Indians Yams Patatoes and Plantains served us for Bread whereof we had enough After Supper we agreed with one of these Indians to guide us a days march into the Country towards the North side he was to have for his
he or any of them are capable to be Guides to conduct a party of men thither if not where and how any Prisoner may be taken that may do it and from thence they afterwards lay their Schemes to prosecute whatever design they take in hand It was 7 or 8 days after before any resolution was taken yet consultations were held every day The French seemed very forward to go to any Town that the English could or would propose because the Governour of Petit-Guavos from whom the Privateers take Commissions had recommended a Gentleman lately come from France to be General of the Expedition and sent word by Captain Tucker with whom this Gentleman came that they should if possible make an attempt on some Town before he return'd again The English when they were in company with the French seem'd to approve of what the French said but never look'd on that General to be fit for the service in hand At length it was concluded to go to a Town the name of which I have forgot it lieth a great way in the Country but not such a tedious march as it would be from hence to Panama Our way to it lay up Carpenter's River which is about 60 leagues to the Westward of Portabell Our greatest obstruction in this design was our want of Boats Therefore it was concluded to go with all our Fleet to St. Andreas a small uninhabited Island lying near the Isle of Providence to the Westward of it in 13 Deg. 15 Min. North Lat. and from Portabell N. N. W. about 70 leagues where we should be but a little way from Carpenter's River And besides at this Island we might build Canoas it being plentifully stored with large Cedars for such a purpose and for this reason the Jamaica-men come hither frequently to build Sloops Cedar being very fit for building and it being to be had here at free-cost beside other Wood. Jamaica is well stored with Cedars of its own chiefly among the Rocky Mountains these also of St. Andreas grow in stony ground and are the largest that ever I knew or heard of the Bodies alone being ordinarily 40 or 50 foot long many 60 or 70 and upwards and of a proportionable bigness The Bermudas Isles are well stored with them so is Virginia which is generally a sandy soil I saw none in the East Indies nor in the South Sea Coast except on the Isthmus as I came over it We reckon the Pereago's and Canoa's that are made of Cedar to be the best of any they are nothing but the Tree itself made hollow Boat-wise with a flat bottom and the Canoa generally sharp at both ends the Pereago at one only with the other end flat But what is commonly said of Cedar that the Worm will not touch it is a mistake for I have seen of it very much worm-eaten All things being thus concluded on we sailed from hence directing our course toward St. Andreas We kept company the first day but at night it blew a hard gale at N. E. and some of our Ships bore away The next day others were forced to leave us and the second night we lost all our company I was now belonging to Captain Archembo for all the rest of the Fleet were over-mann'd Captain Archembo wanting men we that came out of the South Seas must either sail with him or remain among the Indians Indeed we found no cause to dislike the Captain but his French Sea-men were the saddest creatures that I was ever among for tho we had bad weather that requir'd many hands aloft yet the biggest part of them never stirr'd out of their Hammocks but to eat or ease themselves We made a shift to find the Island the fourth day where we met Captain Wright who came thither the day before and had taken a Spanish Tartan wherein were 30 men all well armed She had 4 Patereroes and some long Guns placed in a Swivel on the Gunnel They fought an hour before they yielded The news they related was that they came from Cartagena in company of 11 Armadilloes which are small Vessels of War to seek for the Fleet of Privateers lying in the Sambaloes that they parted from the Armadilloes 2 days before that they were order'd to search the Sambaloes for us and if they did not find us then they were order'd to go to Portabell and lye there till they had farther intelligence of us and he supposed these Armadilloes to be now there We that came over Land out of the South Seas being weary of living among the French desired Captain Wright to fit up his Prize the Tartan and make a Man of War of her for us which he at first seemed to decline because he was settled among the French on Hispaniola and was very well beloved both by the Governor of Petit-Guavos and all the Gentry and they would resent it ill that Captain Wright who had no occasion of Men should be so unkind to Captain Archembo as to seduce his Men from him he being so meanly mann'd that he could hardly sail his Ship with his Frenchmen We told him we would no longer remain with Captain Archembo but would go ashore there and build Canoas to transport our selves down to the Moskitoes if he would not entertain us for Privateers are not obliged to any Ship but free to go ashore where they please or to go into any other Ship that will entertain them only paying for their Provision When Captain Wright saw our resolutions he agreed with us on condition we should be under his command as one Ships Company to which we unanimously consented This Blewfields River comes out between the Rivers of Nicaragua and Veragua At its mouth is a fine sandy Bay where Barks may clean It is deep at its mouth but a shole within so that Ships may not enter yet Barks of 60 or 70 Tuns may It had this name from Captain Blewfield a famous Privateer living on Providence Island long before Jamaica was taken Which Island of Providence was settled by the English and belonged to the Earls of Warwick In this River we found a Canoa coming down the stream and though we went with our Canoas to seek for Inhabitants yet we found none but saw in 2 or 3 places signs that Indians had made on the side of the River The Canoa which we found was but meanly made for want of Tools therefore we concluded these Indians have no commerce with the Spaniards nor with other Indians that have While we lay here our Moskito men went in their Canoa and struck us some Manatee or Sea-cow Besides this Blewfields River I have seen of the Manatee in the Bay of Campethy on the Coasts of Bocca del Drago and Bocco del Toro in the River of Darien and among the South Keys or little Islands of Cuba I have heard of their being found on the North of Jamaica a few and in the Rivers of Surinam in great multitudes which is a very low
down in Lat. 12 d. 16 m. It is about 20 leagues from the Main and 9 or 10 from Querisao and is accounted 16 or 17 leagues round The Road is on the S. W. side near the middle of the Island where there is a pretty deep Bay runs in Ships that come from the Eastward luff up close to the Eastern shore and let go their Anchor in 60 fathom water within half a Cables length of the shore But at the same time they must be ready with a Boat to carry a Hasar or Rope and make it fast ashore otherwise when the Land-wind comes in the night the Ship would drive off to Sea again for the ground is so steep that no Anchor can hold if once it starts About half a mile to the Westward of this Anchoring place there is a small low Island and a Channel between it and the main Island The Houses are about half a mile within Land right in the Road There is a Governour lives here a Deputy to the Governor of Querisao and 7 or 8 Soldiers with 5 or 6 Families of Indians There is no Fort and the Soldiers in peaceable times have little to do but to eat and sleep for they never watch but in time of War The Indians are Husband-men and plant Maiz and Guinea Corn and some Yames and Potatoes But their chiefest business is about Cattle for this Island is plentifully stocked with Goats and they send great quantities every year in Salt to Querisao There are some Horses and Bulls and Cows but I never saw any Sheep though I have been all over the Island The South side is plain low Land and there are several sorts of Trees but none very large There is a small Spring of water by the Houses which serves the Inhabitants though it is brackish At the West end of the Island there is a good Spring of Fresh water and 3 or 4 Indian Families live there but no Water nor Houses at any other place On the South side near the East-end is a good Salt-pond where Dutch Sloops come for Salt From Bon-Airy we went to the Isle of Aves or Birds so called from its great plenty of Birds as Men of War and Boobies but especially Boobies The Booby is a Water-fowl somewhat less than a Hen of a light greyish colour I observ'd the Boobies of this Island to be whiter than others This Bird hath a strong Bill longer and bigger than a Crows and broader at the end her Feet are flat like a Ducks Feet It is a very simple creature and will hardly go out of a mans way In other places they build their Nests on the ground but here they build on Trees which I never saw any where else tho I have seen of them in a great many places Their Flesh is black and eats Fishy but are often eaten by the Privateers Their numbers have been much lessen'd by the French Fleet which lay here till it was lost as I shall give an account The Man of War as it is called by the English is about the bigness of a Kite and in shape like it but black and the Neck is red It lives on Fish yet never lights on the Water but soars aloft like a Kite and when it sees its prey it flys down head foremost to the waters edge very swiftly takes his prey out of the Sea with his Bill and immediately mounts again as swiftly and never touching the Water but with his Bill His Wings are very long His Feet are like other Land-Fowl and he builds on Trees where he finds any but where they are wanting on the ground This Island Aves lies about 8 or 9 leagues to the Eastward of the Island Bon-airy about 14 or 15 leagues from the Main and about the lat of 11d 45m North. It is but small not above 4 mile in length and towards the East end not half a mile broad On the North side it is low Land commonly overflown with the Tide but on the Southside there is a great Rocky Bank of Coral thrown up by the Sea The West end is for near a mile space plain even Savanah Land without any Trees There are 2 or 3 Wells dug by Privateers who often frequent this Island because there is a good Harbor about the middle of it on the North side where they may conveniently careen The Riff or Bank of Rocks on which the French Fleet was lost as I mentioned above runs along from the East end to the Northward about 3 mile then tends away to the Westward making as it were a Half Moon This Riff breaks off all the Sea and there is good riding in even sandy ground to the Westward of it There are 2 or 3 small low sandy Keys or Islands within this Riff about 3 miles from the Main Island The Count de Estree lost his Fleet here in this manner Coming from the Eastward he fell in on the back of the Riff and fired Guns to give warning to the rest of his Fleet But they supposing their Admiral was engaged with Enemies hoised up their Topsails and crowded all the Sail they could make and ran full sail ashore after him all within half a mile of each other For his Light being in the Main Top was an unhappy Beacon for them to follow and there escaped but one Kings-ship and one Privateer The Ships continued whole all day and the Men had time enough most of them to get ashore yet many perished in the Wreck and many of those that got safe on the Island for want of being accustomed to such hardships died like rotten Sheep But the Privateers who had been used to such accidents lived merrily from whom I had this relation and they told me that if they had gone to Jamaica with 30 l. a Man in their Pockets they could not have enjoyed themselves more For they kept in a Gang by themselves and watched when the Ships broke to get the Goods that came from them and though much was staved against the Rocks yet abundance of Wine and Brandy floated over the Riff where these Privateers waited to take it up They lived here about 3 weeks waiting an opportunity to transport themselves back again to Hispaniola in all which time they were never without 2 or 3 Hogsheads of Wine and Brandy in their Tents and Barrels of Beef and Pork which they could live on without Bread well enough tho the new-comers out of France could not There were about 40 Frenchmen on board in one of the Ships where there was good store of Liquor till the after part of her broke away and floated over the Riff and was carry'd away to Sea with all the men drinking and singing who being in drink did not mind the danger but were never heard of afterwards In a short time after this great Shipwrack Captain Pain Commander of a Privateer of 6 Guns had a pleasant accident befel him at this Island He came hither to Careen intending to fit
himself very well for here lay driven on the Island Masts Yards Timbers and many things that he wanted therefore he hal'd into the Harbour close to the Island and unrigg'd his Ship Before he had done a Dutch Ship of 20 Guns was sent from Querisao to take up the Guns that were lost on the Riff But seeing a Ship in the Harbour and knowing her to be a French Privateer they thought to take her first and came within a mile of her and began to fire at her intending to warp in the next day for it is very narrow going in Captain Pain got ashore some of his Guns and did what he could to resist them tho he did in a manner conclude he must be taken But while his men were thus busied he spy'd a Dutch Sloop turning to get into the Road and saw her in the evening anchor at the West end of the Island This gave him some hope of making his escape which he did by sending two Canoas in the night aboard the Sloop who took her and got considerable purchase in her and he went away in her making a good Reprizal and leaving his own empty Ship to the Dutch Man of War There is another Island to the Eastward of the Isle of Aves about 4 leagues called by Privateers the littleIsle of Aves which is overgrown with Mangrove-trees I have seen it but was never on it There are no Inhabitants that I could learn on either of these Islands but Boobies and a few other Birds While we were at the Isle of Aves we careen'd Captain Wright s Bark and scrubb'd the Sugar-prize and got 2 Guns out of the Wrecks continuing here till the beginning of Feb. 1681 2. We went from hence to the Isles Roca's to careen the Sugar-prize which the Isle of Aves was not a place so convenient for Accordingly we haled close to one of the small Islands and got our Guns ashore the first thing we did and built a Breastwork on the point and planted all our Guns there to hinder an Enemy from coming to us while we lay on the Careen Then we made a House and cover d it with our Sails to put our goods and provisions in While we lay here a French Man of War of 36 Guns came thro the Keys or Little Islands to whom we sold about 10 Tun of Sugar I was aboard twice or thrice and very kindly welcomed both by the Captain and his Lieutenant who was a Cavalier of Malta and they both offer d me great encouragement in France if I would go with them but I ever design'd to continue with those of my own Nation The Islands Roca s are a parcel of small uninhabited Islands lying about the Lat. of 11 d. 40 〈◊〉 about 15 or 16 leagues from the Main and about 20 leagues N. W. b. W. from Tortuga and 6 or 7 leagues to the Westward of Orchilla another Island lying about the same distance from the Main which Island I have seen but was never at it Roca's stretch themselves East and West about 5 leagues and their breadth is about 3 leagues The northernmost of these Islands is the most remarkable by reason of a high white rocky Hill at the West end of it which may be seen a great way and on it there are abundance of Tropick Birds Men of War Booby and Noddys which breed there The Booby and Man of War I have described already The Noddy is a small Black Bird much about the bigness of the English Black-bird and indifferent good meat They build in Rocks We never find them far off from Shore I have seen of them in other places but never saw any of their Nests but in this Island where there is great plenty of them The Tropick Bird is as big as a Pigeon but round and plump like a Partridge They are all white except two or three Feathers in each Wing of a light grey Their Bills are of a yellowish colour thick and short They have one long Feather or rather a Quill about 7 inches long grows out at the Rump which is all the Tail they have They are never seen far without either Tropick for which reason they are called Tropick-birds They are very good food and we meet with them a great way at Sea and I never saw of them any where but at Sea and in this Island where they build and are found in great plenty By the Sea on the South side of that high Hill there is fresh Water comes out of the Rocks but so slowly that it yields not above 40 gallons in 24 hours and it tastes so copperish or aluminous rather and rough in the mouth that it seems very unpleasant at first drinking but after 2 or 3 days any other Water will seem to have no taste The middle of this Island is low plain Land overgrown with long Grass where there are multitudes of small grey Fowls no bigger than a Black-bird yet lay Eggs bigger than a Magpy's and they are therefore by Privateers called Egg-birds The East end of the Island is overgrown with black Mangrove Trees There are three sorts of Mangrove-Trees black red and white The black Mangrove is the largest Tree the body about as big as an Oak and about 20 feet high It is very hard and serviceable Timber but extraordinary heavy therefore not much made use of for building The red Mangrove groweth commonly by the Sea side or by Rivers or Creeks The body is not so big as that of the black Mangrove but always grows out of many roots about the bigness of a Mans Leg some bigger some less which at about 6 8 or 10 foot above the ground joyn into one trunk or body that seems to be supported by so many artificial Stakes Where this sort of Tree grows it is impossible to march by reason of these Stakes which grow so mixt one among another that I have when forced to go through them gone half a mile and never set my foot on the ground stepping from root to root The Timber is hard and good for many uses The inside of the Bark is red and it is used for tanning of Leather very much all over the West Indies The white Mangrove never groweth so big as the other two sorts neither is it of any great use Of the young Trees Privateers use to make Looms or Handles for their Oars for it is commonly strait but not very strong which is the fault of them Neither the black nor white Mangrove grow towering up from stilts or rising roots as the red doth but the body immediately out of the ground like other Trees The Land of this East end is light Sand which is sometimes overflown with the Sea at Spring-tides The Road for Ships is on the South side against the middle of the Island The rest of the Islands of Roca's are low The next to this on the South side is but small flat and even without Trees bearing only Grass On the South side of it
Accounts is now nothing but a Name For I have lain ashore in the place where that City stood but it is all overgrown with Wood so as to leave no sign that any Town hath been there We staid at the Isle of Blanco not above 10 days and then went back to Salt-Tortuga again where Captain Yanky parted with us and from thence after about 4 days all which time our men were drunk and quarrelling we in Captain Wright's Ship went to the Coast of Caraccos on the Main Land This Coast is upon several accounts very remarkable 'T is a continu'd tract of high Ridges of Hills and small Valleys intermix'd for about â—…o leagues stretching East and West but in such manner that the Ridges of Hills and the Valleys alternately run pointing upon the shore from South to North the Valleys some of them about 4 or 5 others not above 1 or 2 furlongs wide and in length from the Sea scarce any of them above 3 or 4 mile at most there being a long Ridge of Mountains at that distance from the Sea-Coast and in a manner parallel to it that joins those shorter Ridges and closeth up the South end of the Valleys which at the North ends of them lye open to the Sea and make so many little Sandy Bays that are the only Landing-places on all the Coast. Both the main Ridge and these shorter Ribs are very high Land so that 3 or 4 leagues off at Sea the Valleys scarce appear to the Eye but all looks like one great Mountain From the Isles of Roda's about 15 and from the Isle of Aves about 20 leagues off we see this Coast very plain from on board our Ships yet when at Anchor on this Coast we cannot see those Isles tho again from the tops of these Hills they appear as if at no great distance like so many Hillocks in a Pond These Hills are barren except the lower sides of them that are cover'd with some of the same rich black Mould that fills the Valleys and is as good as I have seen In some of the Valleys there is a strong red Clay but in the general they are extremely fertil well watered and inhabited by Spaniards and their Negro's They have Maiz and Plantains for their support with Indian Fowls and some Hogs But the main product of these Valleys and indeed the only Commodity it vends are the Cacao-Nuts of which the Chocolate is made The Cacao-Tree grows no where in the North Seas but in the Bay of Campechy on Costa Rica between Portabel and Nicaragua chiefly up Carpenters River and on this Coast as high as the Isle of Trinidada In the South Seas it grows on the River of Guiaquil a little to the Southward of the Line and in the Valley of Collina on the South side of the Continent of Mexico both which places I shall hereafter describe Besides these I am confident there is no place in the world where the Cacao grows except those in Jamaica of which there are now but few remaining of many and large Walks or Plantations of them found there by the English at their first arrival and since planted by them and even these though there is a great deal of pains and care bestowed on them yet seldom come to any thing being generally blighted The Nuts of this Coast of Caracco's though less than those of Costa Rica which are large flat Nuts yet are better and fatter in my opinion being so very oily that we are forced to use Water in rubbing them up and the Spaniards that live here instead of parching them to get off the Shell before they pound or rub them to make Chocolate do in a manner burn them to dry up the Oil for else they say it would fill them too full of blood drinking Chocolate as they do 5 or 6 times a day My worthy Consort Mr. Ringrose commends most the Guiaquil Nut I presume because he had little knowledge of the rest for being intimately acquainted with him I know the course of his Travels and Experience But I am persuaded had he known the rest so well as I pretend to have done who have at several times been long used to and in a manner lived upon all the several sorts of them above mentioned he would prefer the Caraccos Nut before any other yet possibly the drying up of these Nuts so much by the Spaniards here as I said may lessen their Esteem with those Europeans that use their Chocolate ready rubb'd up so that we always chose to make it up our selves The Cacao-Tree hath a body about a foot and an half thick the largest sort and 7 or 8 foot high to the Branches which are large and spreading like an Oak with a pretty thick smooth dark-green leaf shap'd like that of a Plumb-Tree but larger The Nuts are inclosed in Cods as big as both a Mans fists put together At the broad end of which there is a small tough limber stalk by which they hang pendulous from the body of the Tree in all parts of it from top to bottom scattered at irregular distances and from the greater branches a little way up especially at the joints of them or parting 's where they hang thickest but never on the smaller boughs There may be ordinarily about 20 or 30 of these Cods upon a well-bearing Tree and they have 2 Crops of them in a year one in December but the best in June The Cod it self or Shell is almost half an inch thick neither spongy nor woody but of a substance between both brittle yet harder than the Rind of a Lemmon like which its surface is grained or knobbed but more course and unequal The Cods at first are of a dark Green but the side of them next the Sun of a Muddy Red. As they grow ripe the Green turns to a fine bright Yellow and the Muddy to a more lively beautiful Red very pleasant to the Eye They neither ripen nor are gather'd at once but for three weeks or a month when the Season is the Overseers of the Plantations go every day about to see which are turn'd yellow cutting at once it may be not above one from a Tree The Cods thus gathered they lay in several heaps to sweat and then bursting the Shell with their hands they pull out the Nuts which are the only substance they contain having no stalk or pith among them and excepting that these Nuts lye in regular rows like the grains of Maiz but sticking together and so closely stowed that after they have been once separated it would be hard to place them again in so narrow a compass There are generally near 100 Nuts in a Cod in proportion to the greatness of which for it varies the Nuts are bigger or less When taken out they dry them in the Sun upon Mats spread on the ground after which they need no more care having a thin hard skin of their own and much Oil which preserves them Salt water will
difficulty over the Mountains where if 3 men are placed they may keep down as many as come against them on any side This was partly experienced by 5 Englishmen that Captain Davis left here who defended themselves against a great body of Spaniards who landed in the Bays and came here to destroy them and though the second time one of their Consorts deserted and fled to the Spaniards yet the other 4 kept their ground and were afterward taken in from hence by Captain Strong of London We remained at John Fernando's 16 days our sick men were ashore all the time and one of Captain Eaton's Doctors for he had 4 in his Ship tending and feeding them with Goat and several Herbs whereof here is plenty growing in the Brooks and their Diseases were chiefly Scorbutick CHAP. V. The Author departs from John Fernando's Of the Pacifick Sea Of the Andes or high Mountains in Peru and Chili A Prize taken Isle of Lobos Penguins and other Birds there Three Prizes more The Islands Gallapago's The Dildo tree Burton wood Mammet trees Guanoes Land Tortoise their several kind Green Snakes Turtle-Doves Tortoise or Turtle-grass Sea Turtle their several kinds The Air and Weather at the Gallapago's Some of the Islands describ'd their Soil c. The Island Cocos describ'd Cape Blanco and the Bay of Caldera the Sevanahs there Captain Cook dies Of Nicoya and a Red Wood for Dying and other Commodities A narrow Escape of 12 Men. Lance-wood Volean Vejo a burning Mountain on the Coast of Ria Lexa A Tornado The Island and Harbor of Ria Lexa The Gulph of Amapalla and Point Casivina Isles of Mangera and Amapalla The Indian Inhabitants Hog-plumb tree Other Islands in the Gulph of Amapalla Captain Eaton and Captain Davis careen their Ships here and afterwards part THE 8th of April 1684. we sailed from the Isle of John Fernando with the Wind at S. E. We were now 2 Ships in Company Captain Cook 's whose Ship I was in and who here took the Sickness of which he dy'd a while after and Captain Eaton's Our passage lay now along the Pacifick Sea properly so called For though it be usual with our Map-makers to give that Name to this whole Ocean calling it Mare Australe Mar del Zar or Mare Pacificum yet in my opinion the Name of the Pacifick Sea ought not to be extended from South to North farther than from 30 to about 4 degrees South Latitude and from the American Shore Westward indefinitely with respect to my Observation who have been in these parts 250 Leagues or more from Land and still had the Sea very quiet from Winds For in all this Tract of Water of which I have spoken there are no dark rainy Clouds though often a thick Horizon so as to hinder an Observation of the Sun with the Quadrant and in the morning hazy weather frequently and thick Mists but scarce able to wet one Nor are there in this Sea any Winds but the Trade-wind no Tempests no Tornado's or Hurricans though North of the Equator they are met with as well in this Ocean as in the Atlantick yet the Sea it self at the new and full of the Moon runs with high large long Surges but such as never break out at Sea and so are safe enough unless that where they fell in and break upon the shore they make it bad landing In this Sea we made the best of our way toward the Line till in the lat of 24. S. where we fell in with the main Land of the South America All this course of the Land both of Chili and Peru is vastly high therefore we kept 12 or 14 leagues off from shore being unwilling to be seen by the Spaniards dwelling there The Land especially beyond this from 24 deg S. Lat. to 17 and from 14 to 10 is of a most prodigious heighth It lies generally in ridges parallel to the Shore and 3 or 4 ridges one within another each surpassing other in heighth and those that are farthest within Land are much higher than the others They always appear blue when seen at Sea sometimes they are obscured with Clouds but not so often as the high Lands in other parts of the world for here are seldom or never any Rains on these Hills any more than in the Sea near it neither are they subject to Fogs These are the highest Mountains that ever I saw far surpassing the Pike of Tenariffe or Santa Martha and I believe any Mountains in the world I have seen very high Land in the Lat. of 30 South but not so high as in the Latitudes before described In Sir John Narborough's Voyage also to Baldivia a City on this Coast mention is made of very high Land seen near Baldivia and the Spaniard with whom I have discoursed have told me that there is very high Land all the way between Coquimbo which lies in about 30 deg S. Lat. and Baldivia which is in 40 South so that by all likelihood these ridges of Mountains do run in a continued Chain from one end of Peru and Chili to the other all along this South Sea Coast called usually the Andes or Sierra Nuevada des Andes The excessive heighth of these Mountains may possibly be the reason that there are no Rivers of note that fall into these Seas Some small Rivers indeed there are but very few of them for in some places there is not one that comes out into the Sea in 150 or 200 Leagues and where they are thickest they are 30 40 or 50 Leagues asunder and too little and shallow to be navigable Besides some of these do not constantly run but are dry at certain seasons of the year as the River of Ylo runs flush with a quick Current at the latter end of January and so continues till June and then it decreaseth by degrees growing less and running slow till the latter end of September when it fails wholly and runs no more till January again This I have seen at both seasons in two former Voyages I made hither and have been informed by the Spaniards that other Rivers on this Coast are of the like nature being rather Torrents or Land-floods caused by their Rains at certain seasons far within Land than Perennial Streams We kept still along in sight of this Coast but at a good distance from it encountring with nothing of Note till in the lat of 9 deg 40 min. South on the 3d of May we descried a Sail to the Northward of us She was plying to Windward we chaced her and Captain Eaton being a head soon took her she came from Guiaquil about a month before laden with Timber and was bound to Lima. Three days before we took her she came from Santa whither she had gone for Water and where they had news of our being in these Seas by an Express from Baldivia for as we afterwards heard Captain Swan had been at Baldivia to seek a Trade there and he having met Captain
Island and ordered 4 men to be continually there to watch night and day and if they saw any Ship coming thither they were to give notice of it They said they did not expect to see Boats or Canoas but lookt out for a Ship At first they took us in our advanced Canoa to be some men that had been cast away and lost our Ship till seeing 3 or 4 Canoas more they began to suspect what we were They told us likewise that the Horseman which we saw did come to them every morning and that in less than an hours time he could be at the Town When Captain Eaton and his Canoas came ashore we told them what had hapned It was now 3 hours since the Horseman rode away and we could not expect to get to the Town in less than two hours in which time the Governor having notice of our coming might be provided to receive us at his Breast-works therefore we thought it best to defer this design till another time There is a fine Spring of fresh water on the Island there are some Trees also but the biggest part is Savannah whereon is good grass though there is no sort of Beast to eat it This Island is in lat 12 d. 10 m. North. Here we stay'd till 4 a clock in the afternoon then our Ships being come within a league of the shore we all went on board and steer'd for the Gulf of Amapalla intending there to careen our Ships The 26th of July Captain Eaton came aboard our Ship to consult with Captain Davis how to get some Indians to assist us in careening it was concluded that when we came near the Gulf Captain Davis should take two Canoas well mann'd and go before and Captain Eaton should stay aboard According to this agreement Captain Davis went away for the Gulf the next day The Gulf of Amapalla is a great Arm of the Sea running 8 or 10 leagues into the Country It is bounded on the South side of its Entrance with Point Casivina and on the N. W. side with St. Michaels Mount Both these places are very remarkable Point Casivina is in lat 12 d. 40 m. North it is a high round Point which at Sea appears like an Island because the Land within it is very low St. Michaels Mount is a very high peeked Hill not very steep the Land at the foot of it on the S. E. side is low and even for at least a mile From this low Land the Gulf of Amapalla enters on that side Between this low Land and Point Casivina there are two considerable high Islands the Southermost is called Mangera the other is called Amapalla and they are two miles asunder Mangera is a high round Island about 2 leagues in compass appearing like a tall Grove It is invironed with Rocks all round only a small Cove or Sandy Bay on the N. E. side The Mold and Soil of this Island is black but not deep it is mixt with Stones yet very productive of large tall Timber Trees In the middle of the Island there is an Indian Town and a fair Spanish Church The Indians have Plantations of Maiz round the Town and some Plantains They have a few Cocks and Hens but no other sort of tame Fowl neither have they any sort of Beast but Cats and Dogs There is a path from the Town to the Sandy Bay but the way is steep and rocky At this sandy Bay there are always 10 or 12 Canoas lye haled updry except when they are in use Amapalla is a larger Island than Mangera the Soil much the same There are two Towns on it about two miles asunder one on the North side the other on the East side That on the East side is not above a mile from the Sea it stands on a Plain on the top of an Hill the path to it so steep and rocky that a few men might keep down a great number only with Stones There is a very fair Church standing in the midst of the Town The other Town is not so big yet it has a good handsom Church One thing I have observed in all the Indian Towns under the Spanish Government as well in these parts as in the Bay of Campeachy and elsewhere that the Images of the Virgin Mary and other Saints with which all their Churches were filled are still painted in an Indian Complexion and partly in that dress but in those Towns which are inhabited chiefly by Spaniards the Saints also conform themselves to the Spanish garb and complexion The Houses here are but mean the Indians of both Plains have good Field Maiz remote from the Town They have but few Plantains but they have abundance of large Hog-plumb Trees growing about their Houses The Tree that bears this Fruit is as big as our largest Plumb-tree The Leaf is of a dark green colour and as broad as the Leaf of a Plumb-tree but they are shaped like the Haw-thorn Leaf The Trees are very brittle Wood the Fruit is oval and as big as a small Horse Plumb It is at first very green but when it is ripe one side is yellow the other red It hath a great Stone and but little substance about it the Fruit is pleasant enough but I do not remember that ever I saw one throughly ripe that had not a Maggot or two in it I do not remember that I did ever see any of this Fruit in the South Seas but at this place In the Bay of Campeachy they are very plentiful and in Jamaica they plant them to fence their ground These Indians have also some Fowls as those at Mangera no Spaniards dwell among them but only one Padre or Priest who serves for all three Towns these two at Amapalla and that at Mangera They are under the Governor of the Town of St. Michaels at the foot of St. Michaels Mount to whom they pay their Tribute in Maize being extreamly poor yet very contented They have nothing to make Money of but their Plantations of Maiz and their Fowls the Padre or Frier hath his tenths of it and knows to a peck how much every man hath and how many Fowls of which they dare not kill one though they are sick without leave from him There was as I said never another white man on these Islands but the Frier He could speak the Indian Language as all Friers must that live among them In this vast Country of America there are divers Nations of Indians different in their Language therefore those Friers that are minded to live among any Nation of the Indians must learn the Language of those people they propose to teach Although these here are but poor yet the Indians in many other places have great riches which the Spaniards draw from them for trifles In such places the Friers get plentiful incomes as particularly in the Bay of Champeachy where the Indians have large Cacao-walks or in other places where they plant Cocho-neel Trees or Silvester Trees
or where they gather Vinelloes and in such places where they gather Gold In such places as these the Friers do get a great deal of wealth There was but one of all the Indians on both these Islands that could speak Spanish he could write Spanish also being bred up purposely to keep their Registers and Books of Account he was Secretary to both Islands They had a Casica too a small sort of Magistrate the Indians have amongst themselves but he could neither write nor speak Spanish There are a great many more Islands in this Bay but none inhabited as these There is one pretty large Island belonging to a Nunnery as the Indians told us this was stocked with Bulls and Cows there were 3 or 4 Indians lived there to look after the Cattle for the sake of which we often frequented this Island while we lay in the Bay they are all low Islands except Amapalla and Mangera There are 2 Channels to come into this Gulf one between Point Casivina and Mangera the other between Mangera and Amapalla the latter is the best The Riding place is on the East side of Amapalla right against a spot of low ground for all the Island except this one place is high Land Running in farther Ships may Anchor near the Main on the N. E. side of the Island Amapalla This is the place most frequented by Spaniards it is called the Port of Martin Lopez This Gulf or Lake runs in some leagues beyond all the Islands but it is shole water and not capable of Ships It was into this Gulf that Captain Davis was gone with the two Canoas to endeavour for a Prisoner to gain intelligence if possible before our Ships came in He came the first night to Mangera but for want of a Pilot did not know where to look for the Town In the morning he found a great many Canoas haled up on the Bay and from that Bay found a path which led him and his company to the Town The Indians saw our Ships in the evening coming towards the Island and being before informed of Enemies in the Sea they kept Scouts out all night for fear who seeing Captain Davis coming run into the Town and alarmed all the people When Captain Davis came thither they all run into the Woods The Fryer hapned to be there at this time who being unable to ramble into the Woods fell into Captain Davis's hands There were two Indian Boys with him who were likewise taken Captain Davis went only to get a Prisoner therefore was well satisfy'd with the Fryer and immediately came down to the Sea side He went from thence to the Island Amapalla carrying the Fryer and the two Indian Boys with him These were his Pilots to conduct him to the Landing place where they arrived about noon They made no stay here but left 3 or 4 men to look after the Canoas and Captain Davis with the rest marched to the Town taking the Fryer with them The Town as is before noted is about a mile from the Landing place standing in a plain on the top of the hill having a very steep ascent to go to it All the Indians stood on the top of the hill waiting Captain Davis's coming The Secretary mention'd before had no great kindness for the Spaniards It was he that perswaded the Indians to wait Captain Davis his coming for they were all running into the Woods but he told them that if any of the Spaniards Enemies came thither it was not to hurt them but the Spaniards whose Slaves they were and that their Poverty would protect them This man with the Casica stood more forward than the rest at the bank of the Hill when Captain Davis with his Company appear'd beneath They called out therefore in Spanish demanding of our Men what they were and from whence they came to whom Captain Davis and his Men reply'd they were Biscayers and that they were sent thither by the King of Spain to clear those Seas from Enemies that their Ships were coming into the Gulf to Careen and that they came thither before the Ships to seek a convenient place for it as also to desire the Indians assistance The Secretary who as I said before was the only man that could speak Spanish told them that they were welcome for he had a great respect for any Old Spain Men especially for the Biscayers of whom he had heard a very honourable report therefore he desired them to come up to their Town Captain Davis and his Men immediately ascended the Hill the Frier going before and they were received with a great deal of affection by the Indians The Casica and Secretary embraced Captain Davis and the other Indians received his Men with the like Ceremony These Salutations being ended they all marched towards the Church for that is the place of all publick Meetings and all Plays and Pastimes are acted there also therefore in the Churches belonging to Indian Towns they have all sorts of Vizards and strange antick Dresses both for Men and Women and abundance of Musical Hautboys and Strumstrums The Strumstrum is made somewhat like a Cittern most of those that the Indians use are made of a large Goad cut in the midst and a thin board laid over the hollow and which is fastned to the sides this serves for the belly over which the strings are placed The nights before any Holidays or the nights ensuing are the times when they all meet to make merry Their Mirth consists in singing dancing and sporting in those antick Habits and using as many antick gestures If the Moon shine they use but few Torches if not the Church is full of light They meet at these times all sorts of both Sexes All the Indians that I have been acquainted with who are under the Spaniards seem to be more melancholy than other Indians that are free and at these publick Meetings when they are in the greatest of their jollity their mirth seems to be rather forced than real Their Songs are very melancholy and doleful so is their Musick but whether it be natural to the Indians to be thus melancholy or the effect of their Slavery I am not certain But I have always been prone to believe that they are then only condoling their misfortunes the loss of their Country and Liberties which altho these that are now living do not know nor remember what it was to be free yet there seems to be a deep impression in their thoughts of the Slavery which the Spaniards have brought them under increas'd probably by some Traditions of their ancient freedom Captain Davis intended when they were all in the Church to shut the Doors and then make a bargain with them letting them know what he was and so draw them afterwards by fair means to our assistance the Frier being with him who had also promis'd to engage them to it but before they were all in the Church one of Captain Davis his Men pusht one of
the Indians to hasten him into the Church The Indian immediately ran away and all the rest taking the alarm sprang out of the Church like Deer it was hard to say which was first and Captain Davis who knew nothing of what hapned was left in the Church only with the Fryer When they were all fled Captain Davis his Men fired and kill'd the Secretary and thus our hopes perished by the indiscretion of one foolish fellow In the afternoon the Ships came into the Gulf between Point Casivina and Mangera and anchored near the Island Amapalla on the East side in 10 fathom water clean hard Sand. In the evening Captain Davis and his company came aboard and brought the Fryer with them who told Captain Davis that if the Secretary had not been kill d he could have sent him a Letter by one of the Indians that was taken at Mangera and perswaded him to come to us but now the only way was to send one of those Indians to seek the Casica and that himself would instruct him what to say and did not question but the Casica would come in on his word The next day we sent ashore one of the Indians who before night returned with the Casica and 6 other Indians who remained with us all the time that we staid here These Indians did us good service especially in piloting us to an Island where we kill'd Beef whenever we wanted and for this their service we satisfied them to their hearts content It was at this Island Amapalla that a party of Englishmen and Frenchmen came afterwards and stay'd a great while and at last landed on the Main and marched over Land to the Cape River which disembogues into the North Seas near Cape Gratia Dios and is therefore called the Cape River Near the Head of this River they made Bark-logs which I shall describe in the next Chapter and so went into the North Seas This was the way that Captain Sharp had proposed to go if he had been put to it for this way was partly known to Privateers by the discovery that was made into the Country about 30 years since by a party of Englishmen that went up that River in Canoas about as far as the place where these Frenchmen made their Bark-logs there they landed and marched to a Town called Segevia in the Country They were near a month getting up the River for there are many Cataracts where they were often forced to leave the River and hale their Canoas ashore over the Land till they were past the Cataracts and then launch their Canoas again into the River I have discoursed several Men that were in that Expedition and if I mistake not Captain Sharp was one of them But to return to our Voyage in hand when both our Ships were clean and our Water fill'd Captain Davis and Captain Eaton broke off Consortships Captain Eaton took aboard of his Ships 400 Packs of Flower and sailed out of the Gulf the second day of September CHAP. VI. They depart from Amapalla Tornadoes Cape St. Francisco They meet Captain Eaton and part again Isle of Plata described Another meeting with Capt. Eaton and their final parting Point Sancta Hellena Algatrane a sort of Tar. A Spanish VVreck Cruisings Manta near Cape St. Lorenzo Monte Christo. Cruisings Cape Blanco Payta The Buildings in Peru. The Soil of Peru. Colan Bark-logs described Piura The Road of Payta Lobos de Terra They come again to Lobos de la Mar. The Bay of Guiaquil Isle of Sancta Clara. A rich Spanish Wreck there Cat-fish Point Arena in the Isle Puna The Island described The Palmeto tree Town and Harbour of Puna River of Guiaquil Guiaquil Town Its Commodities Cacao Sarsaparilla Quito cloth Of the City and Gold and Air of Quito They enter the Bay in order to make an attempt on the Town of Guiaquil A great advantage slipt that might have been made of a company of Negroes taken in Guiaquil River They go to Plata again Isle Plata THE third day of September 1684. we sent the Frier ashore and left the Indians in possession of the Prize which we brought in hither though she was still half laden with Flower and we sailed out with the Land Wind passing between Amapalla and Mangera When we were a league out we saw a Canoa coming with Sail and Oars after us therefore we shortened Sail and staid for her She was a Canoa sent by the Governor of St. Michaels Town to our Captain desiring him not to carry away the Frier The Messenger being told that the Frier was set ashore again at Amapalla he returned with joy and we made Sail again having the Wind at W. N. W. We steered towards the Coast of Peru we had Tornadoes every day till we made Cape St. Francisco which from June to November are very common on these Coasts and we had with the Tornadoes very much Thunder Lightning and Rain When the Tornadoes were over the Wind which while they lasted was most from the South East came about again to the West and never failed us till we were in sight of Cape St. Francisco where we found the Wind at South with fair weather This Cape is in lat 01 d. 00 North. It is a high bluff or full point of Land cloathed with tall great Trees Passing by this Point coming from the North you will see a small low Point which you might suppose to be the Cape but you are then past it and presently afterwards it appears with three points The Land in the Country within this Cape is very high and the Mountains commonly appear very black When we came in with this Cape we overtook Captain Eaton plying under the shore he in his passage from Amapalla while he was on that Coast met with such terrible Tornadoes of Thunder and Lightning that as he and all his Men related they had never met with the like in any place They were very much affrighted by them the Air smelling very much of Sulphur and they apprehending themselves in great danger of being burnt by the Lightning He touch'd at the Island Cocos and put ashore 200 Packs of Flower there and loaded his Boat with Coco Nuts and took in fresh water In the evening we separated again from Captain Eaton for he stood off to Sea and we plied up under the shore making our best advantage both of Sea and Land Winds The Sea Winds are here at South the Land Winds at S. S. E. but sometimes when we came abreast of a River we should have the Wind at S. E. The 20th day of September we came to the Island Plata and anchored in 16 fathom We had very good weather from the time that we fell in with Cape St. Francisco and were now fallen in again with the same places from whence I begin the account of this Voyage in the first Chapter having now compast in the whole Continent of the South America The Island Plata as some report
Spaniards might not see us and in the evening sent our Canoas ashore to take it mann'd with 110 men Payta is a small Spanish Sea-port Town in the lat of 5 d. 15 m. It is built on the Sand close by the Sea in a nook elbow or small bay under a pretty high hill There are not above 75 or 80 Houses and 2 Churches The Houses are but low and ill built The building in this Country of Peru is much alike on all the Sea-coast The Walls are built of Brick made with Earth and Straw kneaded together They are about 3 foot long 2 foot broad and a foot and half thick They never burn them but lay them a long time in the Sun to dry before they are used in building In some places they have no roofs only poles laid across from the side walls and cover'd with matts and then those walls are carry'd up to a considerable heighth But where they build roofs upon their Houses the walls are not made so high as I said before The Houses in general all over this Kingdom are but meanly built one chief reason with the common people especially is the want of materials to build withal for however it be more within Land yet here is neither Stone nor Timber to build with nor any materials but such Brick as I have described and even the Stone which they have in some places is so brittle that you may rub it into Sand with your fingers Another reason why they build so meanly is because it never rains therefore they only endeavour to fence themselves from the Sun Yet their walls which are built but with an ordinary sort of Brick in comparison with what is made in other parts of the world continue a long time as firm as when first made having never any winds nor rains to rot moulder or shake them However the richer sort have Timber which they make use of in building but it is brought from other places This dry Country commences to the Northward from about Cape Blanco to Coquimbo in about 30 d. S. having no Rain that I could ever observe or hear of nor any green thing growing in the Mountains neither yet in the Valleys except where here and there water'd with a few small Rivers dispers'd up and down So that the Northernmost parts of this Tract of Land are supplied with Timber from Guiaquil Galleo Tornato and other places that are watered with Rains where there are plenty of all sort of Timber In the South parts as about Guasco and Coquimbo they fetch their Timber from the Island Chiloe or other places thereabouts The walls of Churches and rich mens Houses are whitened with Lime both within and without and the doors and posts are very large and adorned with carved work and the beams also in the Churches The inside of the Houses are hung round with rich embroydered or painted Cloaths They have likewise abundance of fine Pictures which adds no small ornament to their House these I suppose they have from Old Spain But the Houses of Payta are none of them so richly furnished The Churches were large and fairly carved At one end of the Town there was a small Fort close by the Sea but no great Guns in it This Fort only with Musquets will command all the Bay so as to hinder any Boats from landing There is another Fort on the top of the Hill just over the Town which commands both it and the lower Fort. There is neither Wood nor Water to be had here They fetch their Water from an Indian Town called Colan about 2 leagues N. N. E. from Payta for at Colan there is a small River of fresh Water which runs out into the Sea from whence Ships that touch at Payta are supplied with Water and other refreshments as Fowls Hogs Plantains Yames and Maize Payta being destitute of all these things only as they fetch them from Colan as they have occasion The Indians of Colan are all Fisher-men They go out to Sea and fish on Bark-logs Bark-logs are made of many round logs of Wood in manner of a Raft and very different according to the use that they are design'd for or the humour of the people that make them or the matter that they are made of If they are made for Fishing then they are only 3 or 4 logs of Light-wood of 7 or 8 foot long plac'd by the side of each other pinn'd fast together with wooden pins and bound hard with withes The Logs are so plac'd that the middlemost are longer than those by the sides especially at the head or fore-part which grows narrower gradually into an angle or point the better to cut through the Water Others are made to carry Goods The bottom of these is made of 20 or 30 great Trees of about 20 30 or 40 foot long fasten'd as the other side to side and so shaped On the top of these they place another shorter row of Trees across them pinn'd fast to each other and then pinn'd to the undermost row this double row of Planks makes the bottom of the Float and of a considerable breadth From this bottom the Raft is raised to about 10 foot higher with rows of Posts sometimes set upright and supporting a floor or two but those I observ'd were rais'd by thick Trees laid across each other as in Wood Piles only not close together as in the bottom of the Float but at the ends and sides only so as to leave the middle all hollow like a Chamber except that here and there a beam goes across it to keep the Float more compact In this hollow at about 4 foot heighth from the beams at the bottom they lay small poles along and close together to make a floor for another Room on the top of which also they lay another such floor made of Poles and the entrances into both these Rooms is only by creeping between the great traverse Trees which make the Walls of this Sea-house The lowest of these stories serves as a Cellar there they lay great Stones for Ballast and their Jars of fresh-water closed up and whatever may bear being wet for by the weight of the Ballast and Cargo the bottom of this Room and of the whole Vessel is sunk so deep as to lye 2 or 3 feet within the surface of the Water The second story is for the Sea-men and their necessaries Above this second stroy the Goods are stowed to what heighth they please usually about 8 or 10 feet and kept together by poles set upright quite round only there is a little space abaft for the Steers-man for they have a large Rudder and afore for the Fire-hearth to dress their Victuals especially when they make long Voyages as from Lima to Truxillo or Guiaquil or Panama which last Voyage is 5 or 600 leagues In the midst of all among the Goods rises a Mast to which is fasten'd a large Sail as in our West-Country Barges in the Thames They
always go before the Wind being unable to ply against it and therefore are fit only for these Seas where the Wind is always in a manner the same not varying above a point or two all the way from Lima till such time as they come into the Bay of Panama and even there they meet with no great Sea but sometimes Northerly winds and then they lower their Sails and drive before it waiting a change All their care then is only to keep off from Shore for they are so made that they cannot sink at Sea These Rafts carry 60 or 70 Tuns of Goods and upwards their Cargo is chiefly Wine Oyl Flower Sugar Quito-cloath Soap Goat-skins drest c. The Float is manag'd usually by 3 or 4 Men who being unable to return with it against the Trade-wind when they come to Panama dispose of the goods and bottom together getting a passage back again for themselves in some Ship or Boat bound to the Port they came from and there they make a new Bark-log for their next Cargo The smaller sort of Bark-logs described before which lye flat on the Water and are used for Fishing or carrying Water to Ships or the like half a Tun or a Tun at a time are more governable than the other tho they have Masts and Sails too With these they go out at night by the help of the Land-wind which is seldom wanting on this Coast and return back in the day time with the Sea-wind This sort of Floats are used in many places both in the East and West Indies On the Coast of Coromandel in the East Indies they call them Catamarans These are but one Log or two sometimes of a sort of light Wood and are made without Sail or Rud der and so small that they carry but one Man whose legs and breech are always in the Water and he manages his Log with a Paddle appearing at a distance like a Man sitting on a Fish's back The Country about Payta is mountainous and barren like all the rest of the Kingdom of Peru. There is no Towns of consequence nearer it than Piura which is a large Town in the Country 40 miles distant It lieth by report of our Spanish Prisoners in a Valley which is watered with a small River that disembogues it self into the Bay of Chirapce in about 7d of North latitude This Bay is nearer to Piura than Payta yet all Goods imported by Sea for Piura are landed at Payta for the Bay of Chirapee is full of dangerous sholes and therefore not frequented by shipping The Road of Payta is one of the best on the Coast of Peru. It is sheltered from the South-west by a point of Land which makes a large Bay and smooth Water for Ships to ride in There is room enough for a good Fleet of Ships and good anchoring in any depth from 6 fathom water to 20 fathom Right against the Town the nearer the Town the shallower the water and the smoother the riding it is clean Sand all over the Bay Most Ships passing either to the North or the South touch at this place for water for tho here is none at the Town yet those Indian Fishermen of Colan will and do supply all Ships very reasonably and good water is much prized on all this Coast through the scarcity of it November the 3d at 6 a clock in the morning our Men landed about 4 miles to the South of the Town and took some Prisoners that were sent thither to watch for fear of us and these Prisoners said that the Governor of Piura came with 100 armed Men to Payta the night before purposely to oppose our landing there if we should attempt it Our Men marched directly to the Fort on the Hill and took it without the loss of one Man Hereupon the Governor of Piura with all his Men and the Inhabitants of the Town ran away as fast as they could Then our Men entered the Town and found it emptied both of Money and Goods there was not so much as a Meal of Victuals left for them The Prisoners told us a Ship had been here a little before and burnt a great Ship in the Road but did not land their Men and that here they put ashore all their Prisoners and Pilots We knew this must be Captain Eaton's Ship which had done this and by these circumstances we supposed he was gone to the East Indies it being always designed by him The Prisoners told us also that since Captain Eaton was here a small Bark had been off the Harbor and taken a pair of Bark-logs a fishing and made the Fishermen bring aboard 20 or 30 Jars of fresh water This we supposed was our Bark that was sent to the Lobos to seek Captain Eaton In the evening we came in with our Ships and anchored before the Town in 10 fathom water near a mile from the shore Here we staid till the sixth day in hopes to get a Ransom for the Town Our Captains demanded 300 Packs of Flower 3000 pound of Sugar 25 Jars of Wine and 1000 Jars of Water to be brought off to us but we got nothing of it Therefore Captain Swan ordered the Town to be fir'd which was presently done Then all our Men came aboard and Captain Swan ordered the Bark which Captain Harris commanded to be burnt because she did not sail well At night when the Land Wind came off we sailed from hence towards Lobos The 10th day in the evening we saw a Sail bearing N. W. by N. as far as we could well discern her on our Deck We immediately chased separating our selves the better to meet her in the night but we mist her Therefore the next morning we again trimb'd sharp and made the best of our way to the Lobos de la Mar. The 14th day we had sight of the Island Lobos de Terra it bore East from us we stood in towards it and betwixt 7 and 8 a clock in the night came to an anchor at the N. E. end of the Island in 14 fathom water This Island at Sea is of an indifferent height and appears like Lobos de la Mar. About a quarter of a mile from the North end there is a great hollow Rock and a good Channel between where there is 7 fathom water The 15th day we went ashore and found abundance of Penguins and Boobies and Seal in great quanties We sent aboard of all these to be drest for we had not tasted any flesh in a great while before therefore some of us did eat very heartily Captain Swan to encourage his Men to eat this course flesh would commend it for extraordinary good food comparing the Seal to roasting Pig the Boobies to Hens and the Penguins to Ducks this he did to train them to live contentedly on course Meat not knowing but we might be forced to make use of such food before we departed out of these Seas for it is generally seen among Privateers that nothing imboldens them
this River Their chiefest employment when they are not at Sea is fishing These men are oblig'd by the Spaniards to keep good watch for Ships that Anchor at Point Arena which as I said before is 7 leagues from the Town Puna The place where they keep this watch is at a Point of Land on the Island Puna that starts out into the Sea from whence they can see all Ships that anchor at Point Arena The Indians come thither in the morning and return at night on Horse-back From this watching point to Point Arena it is 4 leagues all drowned Mangrove-land and in the midway between these two Points is another small Point where these Indians are obrig d to keep another Watch when they fear an Enemy The Centinel goes thither in a Canoa in the morning and returns at night for there is no coming thither by Land through that Mangrove marshy ground The middle of the Island Puna is Savannah or pasture There are some ridges of good Woodland which is of a light yellow or sandy mould producing large tall Trees most unknown even to Travellers But there are plenty of Palmeto Trees which because I am acquainted with I shall describe The Palmeto Tree is about the bigness of an ordinary Ash It is about 30 foot high the body streight without any limb or branch or leaf except at the head only where it spreads forth into many small branches not half so big as a mans arm some no bigger than ones finger These branches are about 3 or 4 foot long clear from any knot At the end of the branch there groweth one broad leaf about the bigness of a large Fan. This when it first shoots forth grows in folds like a Fan when it is closed and still as it grows bigger so it opens till it becomes like a Fan spread abroad It is strengthned towards the stalk with many small ribs springing from thence and growing into the leaf which as they grow near the end of the leaf grow thinner and smaller The Leaves that make the brush part of the Flag-brooms which are brought into England grow just in this manner and are indeed a small kind of Palmeto for there are of them of several dimensions In Bermudas and elsewhere they make Hats Baskets Brooms Fans to blow the fire instead of Bellows with many other House-Implements of Palmeto-Leaves On the ridges where these Trees grow the Indians have here and there Plantations of Maiz Yams and Potatoes There are in the Town of Puna about 20 Houses and a small Church The Houses stand all on Posts 10 or 12 foot high with Ladders on the outside to go up into them I did never see the like buildings any where but among the Malayans in the East Indies They are thatched with Palmeto-leaves and their Chambers well boarded in which last they exceed the Malayans The best place for Ships to lye at an anchor is against the middle of the Town There is 5 fathom water within a Cables length of the shore and good soft deep Oaze where ships may careen or hale ashore it flows 15 or 16 foot water up and down From Puna to Guiaquil is reckoned 7 leagues It is one league before you come to the River of Guiaquil s mouth where it is above two mile wide from thence upwards the River lies pretty streight without any considerable turnings Both sides of the River are low swampy Land overgrown with Red Mangroves so that there is no landing Four mile before you come to the Town of Guiaquil there is a low Island standing in the River This Island divides the River into two parts making two very fair Channels for Ships to pass up and down The S. W. Channel is the widest the other is as deep but narrower and narrower yet by reason of many Trees and Bushes which spread over the River both from the Main and from the Island and there are also several great stumps of Trees standing upright in the Water on either side The Island is above a mile long From the upper part of the Island to the Town of Guiaquil is almost a league and near as much from one side of the River to the other In that spacious place Ships of the greatest burthen may ride afloat but the best place for Ships is nearest to that part of the Land where the Town stands and this place is seldom without Ships Guiaquil stands facing the Island close by the River partly on the side and partly at the foot of a gentle Hill declining towards the River by which the lower part of it is often overflown There are two Forts one standing in the low ground the other on the hill This Town makes a very fine prospect it being beautified with several Churches and other good Buildings Here lives a Governor who as I have been informed hath his Patent from the King of Spain Guiaquil may be reckoned one of the chiefest Sea-Ports in the South Seas The Commodities which are exported from hence are Cacao Hides Tallow Sarsaparilla and other Drugs and Woollen Cloath commonly called Cloath of Quito The Cacao grows on both sides of the River above the Town It is a small Nut like the Campeachy Nut I think the smallest of the two they produce as much Cacao here as serves all the Kingdom of Peru and much of it is sent to Acapulco and from thence to the Phillipine Islands Sarsaparilla grows in the Water by the sides of the River as I have been informed The Quito-cloath comes from a rich Town in the Country within land called Quito There is a great deal made both Serges and Broad-cloath This Cloath is not very fine but is worn by the common sort of people throughout the whole Kingdom of Peru. This and all other commodities which come from Quito are shipt off at Guiaquil for other parts and all imported goods for the City of Quito pass by Guiaquil by which it may appear that Guiaquil is a place of no mean trade Quito as I have been informed is a very populous City seated in the heart of the Country It is inhabited partly by Spaniards but the major part of its Inhabitants are Indians under the Spanish Government It is environ'd with Mountains of a vast heighth from whose bowels many great Rivers have their rise These Mountains abound in Gold which by violent rains is wash'd with the Sand into the adjacent Brooks where the Indians resort in Troops washing away the Sand and putting up the Gold-dust in their Calabashes or Gourd Shells But for the manner of gatnering the Gold I refer you to Mr. Waffer's Book Only I shall remark here that Quito is the place in all the Kingdom of Peru that abounds most with this rich Metal as I have been often informed The Country is subject to great Rains and very thick Fogs especially the Valleys For that reason it is very unwholsome and sickly The chiefest Distempers are Fevers violent Head-ach Pains in the Bowels and
Fluxes I know no place where Gold is found but what is very unhealthy as I shall more particularly relate when I come to speak of Achin in the Isle of Sumatra in the East Indies Guiaquil is not so sickly as Quito and other Towns farther within Land yet in comparison with the Towns that are on the Coast of Mare Pacifico South of Cape Blanco it is very sickly It was to this Town of Guiaquil that we were bound therefore we left our Ships off Cape Blanco and ran into the Bay of Guiaquil with our Bark and Canoas steering in for the Island Santa Clara where we arrived the next day after we left our Ships and from thence we sent away two Canoas the next evening to Point Arena At this Point there are abundance of Oysters and other Shell-fish as Cockles and Muscles therefore the Indians of Puna often come hither to get these Fish Our Canoas got over before day and absconded in a Creek to wait for the coming of the Puna Indians The next morning some of them according to their custom came thither on Bark-logs at the latter part of the Ebb and were all taken by our Men. The next day by their advice the two Watchmen of the Indian Town Puna were taken by our Men and all its Inhabitants not one escaping The next Ebb they took a small Bark laden with Quito-cloath She came from Guiaquil that Tide and was bound to Lima they having advice that we were gone off the Coast by the Bark which I said we saw while we lay at the Island Lobos The Master of this Cloath-bark informed our Men that there were three Barks coming from Guiaquil laden with Negroes He said they would come from thence the next Tide The same Tide of Ebb that they took the Cloath-bark they sent a Canoa to our Bark where the biggest part of the Men were to hasten them away with speed to the Indian Town The Bark was now riding at Point Arena and the next Flood she came with all the Men and the rest of the Canoas to Puna The Tide of Flood being now far spent we lay at this Town till the last of the Ebb and then rowed away leaving 5 Men aboard our Bark who were ordered to lye still till 8 a clock the next morning and not to fire at any Boat or Bark but after that time they might fire at any object for it was supposed that before that time we should be Masters of Guiaquil We had not rowed above two mile before we met and took one of the three Barks laden with Negroes the Master of her said that the other two would come from Guiaquil the next Tide of Ebb. We cut her Main-Mast down and left her at an Anchor It was now strong Flood and therefore we rowed with all speed towards the Town in hopes to get thither before the Flood was down but we found it farther than we did expect it to be or else our Canoas being very full of Men did not row so fast as we would have them The day broke when we were two leagues from the Town and then we had not above an hours Flood more therefore our Captains desired the Indian Pilot to direct us to some Creek where we might abscond all day which was immediately done and one Canoa was sent towards Puna to our Bark to order them not to move nor fire till the next day But she came too late to countermand the first orders for the two Barks before mentioned laden with Negroes came from the Town the last quarter of the evening Tide and lay in the River close by the shore on one side and we rowed up on the other side and mist them neither did they see nor hear us Assoon as the Flood was spent the two Barks weighed and went down with the Ebb towards Puna Our Bark seeing them coming directly towards them and both full of Men supposed that we by some accident had been destroyed and that the two Barks were mann'd with Spanish Soldiers and sent to take our Ships and therefore they fired three Guns at them a league before they came near The two Spanish Barks immediately came to an anchor and the Masters got into their Boats and rowed for the shore but our Canoa that was sent from us took them both The firing of these 3 Guns made a great disorder among our advanced Men for most of them did believe they were heard at Guiaquil and that therefore it could be no profit to lye still in the Creek but either row away to the Town or back again to our Ships It was now quarter Ebb therefore we could not move upwards if we had been dispos d so to do At length Captain Davis said he would immediately land in the Creek where they lay and march directly to the Town if but 40 Men would accompany him and without saying more words he landed among the Mangroves in the Marshes Those that were so minded followed him to the number of 40 or 50. Captain Swan lay still with the rest of the Party in the Creek for they thought it impossible to do any good that way Captain Davis and his Men were absent about 4 hours and then returned all wet and quite tired and could not find any passage out into the firm Land He had been so far that he almost dispair'd of getting back again for a Man cannot pass thro those Red Mangroves but with very much labour When C. Davis was return d we concluded to be going towards the Town the beginning of the next Flood and if we found that the Town was alarm'd we purposed to return again without attempting any thing there Assoon as it was Flood we rowed away and passed by the Island through the N. E. Channel which is the narrowest There are so many Stumps in the River that it is very dangerous passing in the night and that is the time we always take for such attempts for the River runs very swift and one of our Canoas stuck on a Stump and had certainly overset if she had not been immediately rescued by others When we were come almost to the end of the Island there was a Musquet fired at us out of the Bushes on the Main We then had the Town open before us and presently saw lighted Torches or Candles all the Town over whereas before the Gun was fired there was but one Light therefore we now concluded we were discovered Yet many of our Men said that it was a Holiday the next day as it was indeed and that therefore the Spaniards were making Fireworks which they often do in the night against such times We rowed therefore a little farther and found firm Land and Captain Davis pitched his Canoa ashore and landed with his Men. Captain Swan and most of his Men did not think it convenient to attempt any thing seeing the Town was alarm d but at last being upbraided with Cowardize Captain Swan and his Men landed
Provision because he was not so forward to go thither as Captain Davis However at last these differences were made up and we concluded to go into the Bay of Panama to a Town called La Velia but because we had not Canoas enough to land our Men we were resolved to search some Rivers where the Spaniards have no commerce there to get Indian Canoas CHAP. VII They leave the Isle of Plata Cape Passao The Coast between that and Cape St. Francisco and from thence on to Panama The River of St. Jago The Red and the White Cotton tree The Cabbage tree The Indians of St. Jago River and its Neighbourhood The Isle of Gallo The River and Village of Tomaco Isle of Gorgona The Pearl-Oysters there and in other parts The Land on the Main Cape Corrientes Point Garachina Island Gallera The Kings or Pearl Islands Pacheque St. Paul 's Island Lavelia Nata The Clamfish Oysters The pleasant Prospects in the Bay of Panama Old Panama The New City The great Concourse there from Lima and Portobel c. upon the Arrival of the Spanish Armada in the West Indies The Course the Armada takes with an incidental Account of the first Inducements that made the Privateers undertake the passage over the Isthmus of Darien into the South Seas and of the particular beginning of their Correspondence with the Indians that inhabit that Isthmus Of the Air and Weather at Panama The Isles of Perico Tabago apleasant Island The Mammee tree The Village Tabago A Spanish Stratagem or two of Capt. Bond their Engineer The Ignorance of the Spaniards of these parts in Sea Affairs A Party of French Privateers arrive from over Land Of the Commissions that are given out by the French Governour of Petit-Guavres Of the Gulf of St. Michael and the Rivers of Congos Sambo and Sta Maria and an Error of the common Maps in the placing Point Garachina and Cape St. Lorenzo corrected Of the Town and Gold Mines of Sta Maria and the Town of Scuchadero Capt. Townley 's Arrival with some more English Privateers over Land Jars of Pisco wine A Bark of Capt. Knight 's joins them Point Garachina again Porto de Pinas Isle of Otoque The Pacquet from Lima taken Other English and French Privateers arrive Chepelio one of the sweetest Islands in the World The Sapadillo Avogato pear Mammee Sappota Wild Mammee and Star apple Cheapo River and Town Some Traversings in the Bay of Panama and an account of the Strength of the Spanish Fleet and of the Privateers and the Engagement between them THE 23d day of December 1684 we sailed from the Island Plata towards the Bay of Panama The Wind at S. S. E. a fine brisk gale and fair weather The next morning we past by Cape Passao This Cape is in lat 00 d. 08 m. South of the Equator It runs out into the Sea with a high round point which seems to be divided in the midst It is bald against the Sea but within land and on both sides it is full of short Trees The Land in the Country is very high and mountainous and it appears to be very woody Between Cape Passao and Cape Saint Francisco the Land by the Sea is full of small Points making as many little Sandy Bays between them and is of an indifferent heighth cover'd with Trees of divers sorts So that sailing by this Coast you see nothing but a vast Grove or Wood which is so much the more pleasant because the Trees are of several forms both in respect to their growth and colour Our design was as I said in my last Chapter to search for Canoas in some River where the Spaniards have neither Settlement nor Trade with the native Indians We had Spanish Pilots and Indians bred under the Spaniards who were able to carry us into any Harbour or River belonging to the Spaniards but were wholly unacquainted with those Rivers which are not frequented by the Spaniards There are many such unfrequented Rivers between Plata and Panama indeed all the way from the Line to the Gulf of St. Michaels or even to Panama it self the Coast is not inhabited by any Spaniards nor are the Indians that inhabit there any way under their subjection except only near the Isle Gallo where on the banks of a Gold River or two there are some Spaniards who work there to find Gold Now our Pilots being at a loss on these less frequented Coasts we supply'd that defect out of the Spanish Pilot books which we took in their Ships These we found by experience to be very good Guides Yet nevertheless the Country in many places by the Sea being low and full of openings Creeks and Rivers it is somewhat difficult to find any particular River that a man designs to go to where he is not well acquainted This however could be no discouragement to us for one River might probably he as well furnished with Indian Canoas as another and if we found them it was to us indifferent where yet we pitcht on the River Saint Jago not because there were not other Rivers as large and as likely to be inhabited with Indians as it but because that River was not far from Gallo an Island where our Ships could anchor safely and ride securely We past by Cape St. Francisco meeting with great and continued Rains The Land by the Sea to the North of the Cape is low and extraordinary woody the Trees are very thick and seem to be of a prodigious height and bigness From Cape Saint Francisco the Land runs more Easterly into the Bay of Panama I take this Cape to be its bounds on the South side and the Isles of Cobaya or Quibo to bound it on the North side Between this Cape and the Isle Gallo there are many large and navigable Rivers We passed by them all till we came to the River St. Jago This River is near 2 d. North of the Equator It is large and navigable some leagues up and 7 leagues from the Sea it divides it self into two parts making an Island that is 4 leagues wide against the Sea The widest branch is that on the S. W. side of the Island Both branches are very deep but the mouth of the narrower is so choakt with sholes that at low water even Canoas cannot enter Above the Island it is a league wide and the Stream runs pretty streight and very swift The Tide flows about 3 leagues up the River but to what height I know not Probably the River hath its original from some of the rich Mountains near the City of Quito and it runs thro a Country as rich in soil as perhaps any in the world especially when it draws within 10 or 12 leagues of the Sea The Land there both on the Island and on both sides of the River is of a black deep Mold producing extraordinary great tall Trees of many sorts such as usually grow in these hot Climates I shall only give an account of the
many Groves and Spots of Trees that appear in the Savannahs like so many little Islands This City is incompassed with a high Stone Wall the Houses are said to be of Brick Their Roofs appear higher than the top of the City Wall It is beautified with a great many fair Churches and Religious Houses besides the President 's House and other eminent Buildings which altogether make one of the finest objects that I did ever see in America especially There are a great many Guns on her Walls most of which look toward the Land They had none at all against the Sea when I first entered those Seas with Captain Sawkins Captain Coxon Captain Sharp and others for till then they did not fear any Enemy by Sea but since then they have planted Guns clear round This is a flourishing City by reason it is a thorough-fair for all imported or exported Goods and Treasure to and from all parts of Peru and Chili whereof their Store-houses are never empty The Road also is seldom or never without Ships Besides once in 3 years when the Spanish Armada comes to Portobel then the Plate Fleet also from Lima comes hither with the Kings Treasure and abundance of Merchant Ships full of Goods and Plate at that time the City is full of Merchants and Gentlemen the Seamen are busy in landing the Treasure and Goods and the Carriers or Caravan Masters imployed in carrying it over land on Mules in vast droves every day to Portobel and bringing back European Goods from thence Though the City be then so full yet during this heat of business there is no hiring of an ordinary Slave under a piece of Eight a day Houses also Chambers Beds and Victuals are then extraordinary dear Now I am on this subject I think it will not be amiss to give the Reader an account of the progress of the Armada from Old Spain which comes thus every three years into the Indies Its first arrival is at Cartagena from whence as I have been told an Express is immediately sent over land to Lima thro the Southern Continent and another by Sea to Portobel with two Pacquets of Letters one for the Viceroy of Lima the other for the Viceroy of Mexico I know not which way that of Mexico goes after its arrival at Portobel whether by Land or Sea but I believe by Sea to La Vera Cruz. That for Lima is sent by Land to Panama and from thence by Sea to Lima. Upon mention of these Pacquets I shall digress yet a little further and acquaint my Reader that before my first going over into the South Seas with Captain Sharp and indeed before any Privateers at least since Drake and Oxengham had gone that way which we afterwards went except La Sound a French Captain who by Captain Wright's Instructions had ventured as far as Cheap Town with a body of Men but was driven back again I being then on board Capt. Coxon in company with 3 or 4 more Privateers about 4 leagues to the East of Portobel we took the Pacquets bound thither from Cartagena We open'd a great quantity of the Merchants Letters and found the Contents of many of them to be very surprizing the Merchants of several parts of Old Spain thereby informing their Correspondents of Panama and elsewhere of a certain Prophecy that went about Spain that year the tenour of which was That there would be English Privateers that year in the West Indies who would make such great Discoveries as to open a door into the South Seas which they supposed was fastest shut and the Letters were accordingly full of cautions to their Friends to be very watchful and careful of their Coasts This Door they spake of we all concluded must be the passage over Land through the Country of the Indians of Darien who were a little before this become our Friends and had lately fallen out with the Spaniards breaking off the Intercourse which for some time they 'r had with them and upon calling also 〈◊〉 mind the frequent Invitations we had from those Indians a little before this time to pass through their Country and fall upon the Spaniards in the South Seas we from henceforward began to entertain such thoughts in earnest and soon came to a Resolution to make those Attempts which we afterwards did with Capt. Sharp Coxon c. So that the taking these Letters gave the first life to those bold Undertakings and we took the advantage of the fears the Spaniards were in from that Prophecy or probable Conjecture or whatever it were for we sealed up most of the Letters again and sent them ashore to Portobel The occasion of this our late Friendship with those Indians was thus About 15 years before this time Capt. Wright being cruising near that Coast and going in among the Samballoes Isles to strike Fish and Turtle took there a young Indian Lad as he was paddling about in a Canoa He brought him aboard his Ship and gave him the Name of John Gret cloathing him and intending to breed him among the English But his Moskito Strikers taking a fancy to the Boy begg'd him of Captain Wright and took him with them at their return into their own Country where they taught him their Art and he married a Wife among them and learnt their Language as he had done some broken English while he was with Captain Wright which he improved among the Moskitoes who corresponding so much with us do all of them smatter English after a sort but his own Language he had almost forgot Thus he lived among them for many years till about 6 or 8 months before our taking these Letters Captain Wright being again among the Samballoes took thence another Indian Boy about 10 or 12 years old the Son of a Man of some account among those Indians and wanting a Striker he went away to the Moskito's Country where he took in John Gret who was now very expert at it John Gret was much pleased to see a Lad there of his own Country and it came into his mind to persuade Capt. Wright upon this occasion to endeavour a Friendship with those Indians a thing our Privateers had long coveted but never durst attempt having such dreadful apprehensions of their Numbers and Fierceness But John Gret offered the Captain that he would go ashore and negotiate the matter who accordingly sent him in his Canoa till he was near the shore which of a sudden was covered with Indians standing ready with their Bows and Arrows John Gret who had only a Clout about his middle as the fashion of the Indians is leapt then out of the Boat and swam the Boat retiring a little way back and the Indians ashore seeing him in that habit and hearing him call to them in their own Tongue which he had recovered by conversing with the Boy lately taken suffered him quietly to land and gathered all about to hear how it was with him He told them particularly that he was one
his Men. They were coming out of the River in the night and took 2 Barks bound for Panama the one was laden with Flower the other with Wine Brandy Sugar and Oyl The Prisoners that he took declared that that the Lima Fleet was ready to sail We went and anchored among the Kings Islands and the next day Captain Swan returned out of the River of Santa Maria being informed by the Indians that Captain Townley was come over to the Kings Islands At this place Captain Townley put out a great deal of his Goods to make room for his Men. He distributed his Wine and Brandy soâ—…e to every Ship that it might be drunk out because he wanted the Jars to carry Water in The Spaniards in these Seas carry all their Wine Brandy and Oyl in Jars that hold 7 or 8 Gallons When they lade at Pisco a place about 40 leagues to the Southward of Lima and famous for Wine they bring nothing else but Jars of Wine and they sâ—…ow one tier on the top of another so artificially that we could hardly do the like without breaking them yet they often carry in this manner 1500 or 2000 or more in a Ship and seldom break one The 10th day we took a small Bark that came from Guiaquil she had nothing in her but Ballast The 12th day there came an Indian Canoa out of the River of Santa Maria and told us that there were 300 English and French men more coming over Land from the North Seas The 15th day we met a Bark with 5 or 6 English men in her that belonged to Captain Knight who had been in the South Seas 5 or 6 months and was now on the Mexican Coast. There he had spied this Bark but not being able to come up with her in his Ship he detach'd these 5 or 6 Men in a Canoa who took her but when they had done could not recover their own Ship again losing company with her in the night and therefore they came into the Bay of Panama intending to go over land back into the North Seas but that they luckily met with us for the Isthmus of Darien was now become a common Road for Privateers to pass between the North and South Seas at their pleasure This Bark of Captain Knight's had in her 40 or 50 Jars of Brandy she was now commanded by Mr. Henry More but Captain Swan intending to promote Captain Harris caused Mr. More to be turned out alledging that it was very likely these Men were run away from their Commander Mr. More willingly resigned her and went aboard of Captain Swan and became one of his Men. It was now the latter end of the dry season here and the Water at the Kings or Pearl Islands of which there was plenty when we first came hither was now dried away Therefore we were forced to go to Point Garachina thinking to water our Ships there Captain Harris being now Commander of the new Bark was sent into the River of Santa Maria to see for those Men that the Indians told us of whilst the rest of the Ships sailed towards Point Garachina where we arriv'd the 21st day and anchored 2 mile from the Point and found a strong Tide running out of the River Sambo The next day we run within the Point and anchored in 4 fathom at low water The Tide riseth here 8 or 9 foot the Flood sets N. N. E. the Ebb S. S. W. The Indians that inhabit in the River Sambo came to us in Canoas and brought Plantains and Bonanoes They could not speak nor understand Spanish therefore I believe they have no Commerce with the Spaniards We found no fresh Water here neither so we went from hence to Port Pinas which is 7 leagues S. by W. from hence Porto Pinas lieth in lat 7 d. North. It is so called because there are many Pine-trees growing there The Land is pretty high rising gently as it runs into the Country This Country near the Sea is all covered with pretty high Woods the Land that bounds the Harbor is low in the middle but high and rocky at both sides At the mouth of the Harbor there are 2 small high Islands or rather barren Rocks The Spaniards in their Pilot Books commend this for a good Harbour but it lieth all open to the S. W. Winds which frequentlly blow here in the wet season besides the Harbor within the Islands is a place of but small extent and hath a very narrow going in what depth of Water there is in the Harbor I know not The 25th day we arrived at this Harbor of Pines but did not go in with our Ships finding it but an ordinary place to lye at We sent in our Boats to search it and they found a stream of good Water running into the Sea but there were such great swelling surges came into the Harbor that we could not conveniently fill our Water there The 26th day we returned to Point Garachina again In our way we took a small Vessel laden with Cacao she came from Guiaquil The 29th day we arrived at Point Garachina There we found Captain Harris who had been in the River of Santa Maria but he did not meet the Men that he went for Yet he was informed again by the Indians that they were making Canoas in one of the branches of the River of Santa Maria. Here we shared our Cacao lately taken Because we could not fill our Water here we designed to go to Tabago again where we were sure to be supplied Accordingly on the 30th day we set sail being now 9 Ships in company and had a small Wind at S. S. E. The first day of April being in the Channel between the Kings Islands and the Main we had much Thunder Lightning and some Rain This evening we anchored at the Island Pacheque and immediately sent 4 Canoas before us to the Island Tabago to take some Prisoners for information and we followed the next day The 3d day in the evening we anchored by Perica and the next morning went to Tabago where we found our 4 Canoas They arrived there in the night and took a Canoa that came as is usual from Panama for Plantains There were in the Canoa 4 Indians and a Mulata The Mulata because he said he was in the Fireship that came to burn us in the night was immediately hang'd These Prisoners confirmed that one Captain Bond an English man did command her Here we fill'd our Water and cut Fire-wood and from hence we sent 4Canoas over to the Main with one of the Indians lately taken to guide them to a Sugar-work for now we had Cacao we wanted Sugar to make Chocolate But the chiefest of their business was to get Coppers for each Ship having now so many Men our Pots would not boil Victuals fast enough though we kept them boiling all the day About 2 or 3 days after they returned aboard with 3 Coppers While we lay here Captain Davis his Bark went
much esteemed by them for I have met with plenty of them in many places in the North Seas where the Spaniards are settled as in the Bay of Campechy on the Coast of Cartagena and the Coast of Carraccos and there are some in Jamaica which were planted by the Spaniards when they possessed that Island The Mammee-Sappota Tree is different from the Mammee described at the Isle of Tabago in this Chapter It is not so big or so tall neither is the Fruit so big or so round The rind of the Fruit is thin and brittle the inside is a deep red and it has a rough flat long stone This is accounted the principal Fruit of the West Indies It is very pleasant and wholsome I have not seen any of these on Jamaica but in many places in the West Indies among the Spaniards There is another sort of Mammee-tree which is called the wild Mammee This bears a Fruit which is of no value but the Tree is streight tall and very tough and therefore principally used for making Masts The Star Apple Tree grows much like the Quince Tree but much bigger It is full of leaves and the leaf is broad of an oval shape and of a very dark green colour The Fruit is as big as a large Apple which is commonly so covered with leaves that a man can hardly see it They say this is a good Fruit I did never taste any but have seen both of the Trees and Fruit in many places on the Main on the North side of the Continent and in Jamaica When the Spaniards possest that Island they planted this and other sorts of Fruit as the Sapadillo Avogaâ—…o Pear and the like and of these Fruits there is still in Jamaica in those Plantations that were first settled by the Spaniards as at the Angels at 7 mile Walk and 16 mile Walk There I have seen these Trees which were planted by the Spaniards but I did never see any improvement made by the English who seem in that little curious The Road for Ships is on the North side where there is good anchoring half a mile from the shore There is a Well close by the Sea on the North side and formerly there were 3 or 4 Houses close by it but now they are destroyed This Island stands right against the mouth of the River Cheapo The River Cheapo springs out of the Mountains near the North side of the Country and it being penn'd up on the South side by other Mountains bends its course to the Westward between both till finding a passage on the S. W. it makes a kind of a half circle and being swell'd to a considerable bigness it runs with a slow motion into the Sea 7 leagues from Panama This River is very deep and about a quarter of a mile broad but the mouth of it is choaked up with Sands so that no Ships can enter but Barks may There is a small Spanish Town of the same name within 6 leagues of the Sea it stands on the left hand going from the Sea This is it which I said Captain La Sound attempted The Land about it is champion with many small Hills cloathed with Weeds but the biggest part of the Country is Savannah On the South side of the River it is all wood-land for many leagues together It was to this Town that our 250 Men were sent The 24th day they returned out of the River having taken the Town without any opposition but they found nothing in it By the way going thither they took a Canoa but most of the Men escaped ashore upon one of the Kings Islands She was sent out well appointed with armed Men to watch our motion The 25th day Captain Harris came to us having cleaned his Ship The 26th day we went again toward Tabago our Fleet now upon Captain Harris joining us again consisted of 10 Sail. We arrived at Tabago the 28th day there our Prisoners were examined concerning the strength of Panama for now we thought our selves strong enough for such an Enterprize being near 1000 Men. Out of these on occasion we could have landed 900 but our Prisoners gave us small Encouragement to it for they assured us that all the strength of the Country was there and that many Men were come from Portobel besides its own Inhabitants who of themselves were more in number than we These reasons together with the strength of the place which hath a high Wall deterr'd us from attempting it While we lay here at Tabago some of our men burnt the Town on the Island The 4th of May we failed hence again bound for the Kings Islands and there we continu'd cruising from one end of these Islands to the other till on the 22d day Captain Davis and Captain Gronet went to Pacheque leaving the rest of the Fleet at anchor at St. Pauls Island From Pacheque we sent 2 Canoas to the Island Chepelio in hopes to get a Prisoner there The 25th day our Canoas return'd from Chepelio with three Prisoners which they took there They were Sea-men belonging to Panama who said that provision was so scarce and dear there that the poor were almost starved being hindred by us from those common and daily supplies of Plantains which they did formerly injoy from the Islands especially from those two of Chepelio and Tabago That the President of Panama had strictly ordered that none should adventure to any of the Islands for Plantains but necessity had obliged them to trespass against the Presidents Order They farther reported that the Fleet from Lima was expected every day for it was generally talked that they were come from Lima and that the report at Panama was that King Charles 2d of England was dead and that the Duke of York was crowned King The 27th day Captain Swan and Captain Townly also came to Pacheque where we lay but Captain Swan s Bark was gone in among the Kings Islands for Plantains The Island Pacheque as I have before related is the northermost of the Kings Islands It is a small low Island about a league round On the South side of it there are 2 or 3 small Islands neither of them half a mile round Between Pacheque and these Islands is a small channel not above 6 or 7 paces wide and about a mile long Through this Captain Townly made a bold run being prest hard by the Spaniards in the fight I am going to speak of though he was ignorant whether there was a sufficient depth of Water or not On the East side of thiss Channel all our Fleet lay waiting for the Lima Fleet which we were in hopes would come this way The 28th day we had a very wet morning for the Rains were come in as they do usually in May or June sooner or later so that May is here a very uncertain month Hitherto till within a few days we had had good fair weather and the Wind at N. N. E. but now the weather was altered and the Wind at
up their mother Fruit did not the Indians who plant large fields of these Trees when once they perceive the Fruit open take care to drive them out for they spread under the branches of the Tree a large Linnen cloth and then with sticks they shake the branches and so disturb the poor insects that they take wing to be gone yet hovering still over the head of their native Tree but the heat of the Sun so disorders them that they presently fall down dead on the cloth spread for that purpose where the Indians let them remain 2 or 3 days longer till they are throughly dry When they fly up they are red when they fall down they are black and when first they are quite dry they are white as the sheet wherein they lye though the colour change a little after These yield the much esteemed Scarlet The Cochineel-trees are called by the Spaniards Toona's They are planted in the Country about Guatimala and about Cheape and Guaxaca all 3 in the Kingdom of Mexico The Silvester is a red grain growing in a Fruit much resembling the Cochineel-fruit as doth also the Tree that bears it There first shoots forth a yellow Flower then comes the Fruit which is longer than the Cochineel-fruit The Fruit being ripe opens also very wide The inside being full of these small Seeds or Grains they fall out with the least touch or shake The Indians that gather them hold a dish under to receive the Seed and then shake it down These Trees grow wild and 8 or 10 of these Fruits will yield an ounce of Seed but of the Cochineel-fruits 3 or 4 will yield an ounce of insects The Silvester gives a colour almost as fair as the Cochineel and so like it as to be often mistaken for it but it is not near so valuable I often made enquiry how the Silvester grows and of the Cochineel but was never fully satisfied till I met a Spanish Gentleman that had lived 30 years in the West Indies and some years where these grow and from him I had these relations He was a very intelligent person and pretended to be well acquainted in the Bay of Campechy therefore I examined him in many particulars concerning that Bay where I was well acquainted my self living there 3 years He gave very true and pertinent answers to all my demands so that I could have no distrust of what he related When we first saw the Mountain of Guatimala we were by judgment 25 leagues distance from it As we came nearer the Land it appeared higher and plainer yet we saw no fire but a little smoak proceeding from it The Land by the Sea was of a good height yet but low in comparison with that in the Country The Sea for about 8 or 10 leagues from the shore was full of floating Trees or Drift Wood as it is called of which I have seen a great deal but no where so much as here and Pumice-stones floating which probably are thrown out of the burning Mountains and washed down to the shore by the Rains which are very violent and frequent in this Country and on the side of Honduras it is excessively wet The 24th day we were in lat 14 d. 30 m. North and the weather more settled Then Captain Townly took with him 106 men in 9 Canoas and went away to the Westward where he intended to Land and romage in the Country for some refreshment for our sick men we having at this time near half our men sick and many were dead since we left Ria Lexa We in the Ships lay still with our Topsails furled and our Corses or lower Sails hal'd up this day and the next that Captain Townly might get the start of us The 26th day we made sail again coasting to the Westward having the Wind at North and fair weather We ran along by a tract of very high Land which came from the Eastward more within Land than we could see after we fell in with it it bare us company for about 10 leagues and ended with a pretty gentle descent towards the West There we had a perfect view of a pleasant low Country which seemed to be rich in Pasturage for Cattle It was plentifully furnished with groves of green Trees mixt among the grassy Savannahs Here the Land was fenced from the Sea with high sandy Hills for the Waves all along this Coast run high and beat against the shore very boisterously making the Land wholly unapproachable in Boats or Canoas So we Coasted still along by this low Land 8 or 9 leagues farther keeping close to the shore for fear of missing Captain Townly We lay by in the night and in the day made an easie sail The 2d day of October Captain Townly came aboard he had coasted along shore in his Canoas seeking for an entrance but found none At last being out of hopes to find any Bay Creek or River into which he might safely enter he put ashore on a sandy Bay but overset all his Canoas he had one man drowned and several lost their Arms and some of them that had not waxt up their Cartrage or Catouche Boxes wet all their Powder Captain Townly with much ado got ashore and dragged the Canoas up dry on the Bay then every man searched his Catouche-box and drew the wet Powder out of his Gun and provided to march into the Country but finding it full of great Creeks which they could not ford they were forced to return again to their Canoas In the night they made good fires to keep themselves warm the next morning 200 Spaniards and Indians fell on them but were immediately repulsed and made greater speed back than they had done forward Captain Townly followed them but not far for fear of his Canoas These men came from Teguantapeque a Town that Captain Townly went chiefly to seek because the Spanish Books make mention of a large River there but whether it was run away at this time or rather Captain Townly and his men were short sighted I know not but they could not find it Upon his return we presently made sail coasting still Westward having the Wind at E. N. E. fair weather and a fresh gale We kept within 2 mile of the shore sounding all the way and found at 6 miles distance from Land 19 fathom at 8 miles distance 21 fathom gross Sand. We saw no opening nor sign of any place to land at so we sailed about 20 leagues farther and came to a small high Island called Tangola where there is good anchoring The Island is indifferently well furnished with Wood and Water and lieth about a league from the shore The Main against the Island is pretty high champion Savannah Land by the Sea but 2 or 3 leagues within land it is higher and very woody We coasted a league farther and came to Guatulco This Port is in lat 15 d. 30 m. it is one of the best in all this Kingdom of Mexico Near a mile
from the mouth of the Harbour on the East side there is a little Island close by the shore and on the West side of the mouth of the Harbour there is a great hollow Rock which by the continual working of the Sea in and out makes a great noise which may be heard a great way Every Surge that comes in forceth the Water out of a little hole on its top as out of a pipe from whence it flys out just like the blowing of a Whale to which the Spaniards also liken it They call this Rock and Spout the Buffadore upon what account I know not Even in the calmest seasons the Sea beats in there making the Water spout out at the hole so that this is always a good mark to find the Harbour by The Harbour is about 3 mile deep and one mile broad it runs in N. W. But the West side of the Harbour is best to ride in for small Ships for there you may ride land-locked whereas any where else you are open to the S. W. Winds which often blow here There is good clean ground any where and good gradual soundings from 16 to 6 fathom it is bounded with a smooth sandy shore very good to land at and at the bottom of the Harbour there is a fine Brook of fresh Water running into the Sea Here formerly stood a small Spanish Town or Village which was taken by Sir Francis Drake but now there is nothing remaining of it beside a little Chappel standing among the Trees about 200 paces from the Sea The Land appears in small short ridges parallel to the shore and to each other the innermost still gradually higher than that nearer the shore and they are all cloathed with very high flourishing Trees that it is extraordinary pleasant and delightful to behold at a distance I have no where seen any thing like it At this place Captain Swan who had been very sick came ashore and all the sick Men with him and the Surgeon to tend them Captain Townley again took a company of Men with him and went into the Country to seek for Houses or Inhabitants He marched away to the Eastward and came to the River Capalita which is a swift River yet deep near the mouth and is about a league from Guatulco There 2 of his Men swam over the River and took 3 Indians that were placed there as Centinels to watch for our coming These could none of them speak Spanish yet our Men by signs made them understand that they desired to know if there was any Town or Village near who by the signs which they made gave our Men to understand that they could guide them to a Settlement but there was no understanding by them whether it was a Spanish or Indian Settlement nor how far it was thither They brought these Indians aboard with them and the next day which was the 6th day of October Captain Townly with 140 Men of whom I was one went ashore again taking one of these Indians with us for a Guide to conduct us to this Settlement Our Men that stay'd aboard fill'd our Water and cut Wood and mended our Sails and our Moskito Men struck 3 or 4 Turtle every day They were a small sort of Turtle and not very sweet yet very well esteemed by us all because we had eaten no flesh a great while The 8th day we returned out of the Country having been about 14 miles directly within land before we came to any Settlement There we found a small Indian Village and in it a great quantity of Vinello's drying in the Sun The Vinello is a little Cod full of small black seeds it is 4 or 5 inches long about the bigness of the stem of a Tobacco leaf and when dried much resembling it so that our Privateers at first have often thrown them away when they took any wondering why the Spaniards should lay up Tobacco stems This Cod grows on a small Vine which climbs about and supports it self by the neighbouring Trees it first bears a yellow Flower from whence the Cod afterwards proceeds It is first green but when ripe it turns yellow then the Indians whose Manufacture it is and who sell it cheap to the Spaniards gather it and lay it in the Sun which makes it soft then it changes to a Chesnut-colour Then they frequently press it between their fingers which makes it flat If the Indians do any thing to them beside I know not but I have seen the Spaniards sleek them with Oyl These Vines grow plentifully at Bocca-toro where I have gathered and tried to cure them but could not which makes me think that the Indians have some secret that I know not of 10 cure them I have often asks the Spaniards how they were cured but I never could meet with any could tell me One Mr. Cree also a very curious person who spake Spanish well and had been a Privateer all his Life and 7 years a Prisoner among the Spaniards at Portobel and Cartagena yet upon all his enquiry could not find any of them that understood it Could we have learnt the Art of it several of us would have gone to Bocca-toro yearly at the dry season and cured them and freighted our Vessel We there might have had Turtle enough for food and store of Vinello's Mr. Cree first shewed me those at Bocca-toro At or near a Town also called Caihooca in the Bay of Campeachy these Cods are found They are commoly sold for 3 pence a Cod among the Spaniards in the West-Indies and are sold by the Druggist for they are much used among Chocolate to perfume it Some will use them among Tobacco for it gives a delicate scent I never heard of any Vinello's but here in this Country about Caihooca and at Bocca-toro The Indians of this Village could speak but little Spanish They seemed to be a poor innocent people and by them we understood that here are very few Spaniards in these parts yet all the Indians hereabout are under them The Land from the Sea to their Houses is black Earth mixt with some Stones and Rocks all the way full of very high Trees The 10th day we sent 4 Canoas to the West-ward who were ordered to lye for us at Port Angels where we were in hopes that by some means or other they might get Prisoners that might give us a better account of the Country than at present we could have and we followed them with our Ships all our Men being now pretty well recovered of the Fever which had raged amongst us ever since we departed from Ria Lexa CHAP. IX They set out from Guatulco The Isle Sacrificio Port Angels Jaccals A narrow Escape The Rock Algatross and the neighbouring Coast. Snooks a sort of Fish The Town of Acapulco Of the Trade it drives with the Philippine Islands The Haven of Acapulco A Tornado Port Marquis Capt. Townly makes a fruitless Attempt A long sandy Bay but very rough Seas The Palm tree great
and small The Hill Petaplan A poor Indian Village Jew fish Chequetan a good Harbour Estapa Muscles there A Caravan of Mules taken A Hill near Thelupan The Coast here abouts The Volcan Town Valley and Bay of Colima Sallagua Port. Oarrha Ragged Hills Coronada or the Crown-Land Cape Corrientes Isles of Chametly The City Purification Valderas or the Valley of Flags They miss their design on this Coast. Captain Townly leaves them with the Darien Indians The Point and Isles of Pontique Other Isles of Chametly The Penguin fruit the yellow and the red Seals here Of the River of Cullacan and the Trade of a Town there with California Massaclan River and Town of Rosario Caput Cavalli and another Hill The difficulty of Intelligence on this Coast. The River of Oleta River of St. Jago Maxentelba Rock and Zelisco Hill Sancta Pechaque Town in the River of St. Jago Of Compostella Many of them cut off at Sancta Pecaque Of California whether an Island or not and of the North West and North East Passage A Method proposed for Discovery of the North West and North East Passages Isle of Santa Maria. A prickly Plant. Captain Swan proposes a Voyage to the East Indies Valley of Balderas again and Cape Corrientes The reason of their ill Success on the Mexican Coast and Departure thence for the East Indies IT was the 12th of October 1685 when we set out of the Harbour of Guatulco with our Ships The Land here lies along West and a little Southerly for about 20 or 30 leagues and the Sea Winds are commonly at W. S. W. sometimes at S. W. the Land Winds at N. We had now fair weather and but little Wind. We coasted along to the Westward keeping as near the shore as we could for the benefit of the Land Winds for the Sea Winds were right against us and we found a current setting to the Eastward which kept us back and obliged us to anchor at the Island Sacrificio which is a small green Island about half a mile long It lieth about a league to the West of Guatulco and about half a mile from the Main There seems to be a fine Bay to the West of the Island but it is full of Rocks The best riding is between the Island and the Main there you will have 5 or 6 fathom Water Here runs a pretty strong tide the Sea riseth and falleth 5 or 6 foot up and down The 18th day we sailed from hence coasting to the Westward after our Canoas We kept near the shore which was all sandy Bays the Country pretty high and woody and a great Sea tumbling in upon the shore The 22d day 2 of our Canoas came aboard and told us they had been a great way to the Westward but could not find Port Angels They had attempted to land the day before at a place where they saw a great many Bulls and Cows feeding in hopes to get some of them but the Sea run so high that they over-set both Canoas and wet all their Arms and lost 4 Guns and had one Man drown'd and with much ado got off again They could give no account of the other 2 Canoas for they lost company the first night that they went from Guatulco and had not seen them since We were now abrest of Port Angels though our men in the Canoas did not know it therefore we went in and anchored there This is a broad open Bay with 2 or 3 Rocks at the West side Here is good anchoring all over the Bay in 30 or 20 or 12 fathom Water but you must ride open to all Winds except the Land Winds till you come into 12 or 13 fathom Water then you are sheltered from the W. S. W. which are the common Trade Winds The Tide riseth here about 5 foot the Flood sets to the N. E. and the Ebb to the S. W. The landing in this Bay is bad the place of landing is close by the West side behind a few Rocks here always goes a great swell The Spaniards compare this Harbour for goodness to Guatulco but there is a great difference between them For Guatulco is almost Landlocked and this is an open road and no one would easily know it by their Character of it but by its marks and its latitude which is 15 d. North. For this reason our Canoas which were sent from Guatulco and ordered to tarry here for us did not know it not thinking this to be that fine Harbour and therefore went farther 2 of them as I said before returned again but the other 2 were not yet come to us The Land that bounds this Harbour is pretty high the Earth sandy and yellow in some places red it is partly Woodland partly Savannahs The Trees in the Woods are large and tall and the Savannahs are plentifully stored with very kindly Grass Two leagues to the East of this place is a Beef Farm belonging to Don Diego de la Rosa. The 23 day we landed about 100 men and marched thither where we found plenty of fat Bulls and Cows feeding in the Savannahs and in the House good store of Salt and Maiz and some Hogs and Cocks and Hens but the owners or overseers were gone We lay here 2 or 3 days feasting on fresh provision but could not contrive to carry any quantity aboard because the way was so long and our men but weak and a great wide River to ford Therefore we return'd again from thence the 26th day and brought every one a little Beef or Pork for the men that stay'd aboard The two nights that we stay'd ashore at this place we heard great droves of Jaccals as we suppos'd them to be barking all night long not far from us None of us saw these but I do verily believe they were Jaccals tho I did never see those Creatures in America nor hear any but at this time We could not think that there were less than 30 or 40 in a company We got aboard in the evening but did not yet hear any news of our two Canoas The 27th day in the morning we sailed from hence with the Land Wind at N. by W. The Sea Wind came about noon at W. S. W. and in the evening we anchored in 16 fathom water by a small rocky Island which lieth about half a mile from the Main and 6 leagues Westward from Port Angels The Spaniards give no account of this Island in their Pilot-book The 28th day we sailed again with the Land Wind in the afternoon the Sea breez blew hard and we sprung our Main Topmast This Coast is full of small Hills and Valleys and a great Sea falls in upon the shore In the night we met with the other 2 of our Canoas that went from us at Guatulco They had been as far as Acapulco to seek Port Angells Coming back from thence they went into a River to get Water and were encounterd by 150 Spaniards yet they fill'd their Water in spight of them but
had one man shot through the Thigh Afterward they went into a Lagune or Lake of Salt-water where they found much dried Fish and brought some aboard We being now abrest of that place sent in a Canoa mann'd with 12 men for more Fish The mouth of this Lagune is not Pistol-shot wide and on both sides are pretty high Rocks so conveniently placed by nature that many men may abscond behind and within the Rock the Lagune opens wide on both sides The Spaniards being allarmed by our 2 Canoas that had been there 2 or 3 days before came armed to this place to secure their Fish and seeing our Canoa coming they lay snug behind the Rocks and suffered the Canoa to pass in then they fired their Vōlley and wounded 5 of our men Our people were a little surprized at this sudden adventure yet fired their Guns and rowed farther into the Lagune for they durst not adventure to come out again through the narrow entrance which was near a quarter of a mile in length Therefore they rowed into the middle of the Lagune where they lay out of Gun-shot and looked about to see if there was not another passage to get out at broader than that by which they entered but could see none So they lay still 2 days and 3 nights in hopes that we should come to seek them but we lay off at Sea about 3 leagues distant waiting for their return supposing by their long absence that they had made some greater discovery and were gone farther than the Fish-range because it is usual with Privateers when they enter upon such designs to search farther than they proposed if they meet any encouragement But Captain Townly and his Bark being nearer the shore heard some Guns fired in the Lagune So he mann'd his Canoa and went towards the shore and beating the Spaniards away from the Rocks made a free passage for our men to come out of their pound where else they must have been starved or knocked on the head by the Spaniards They came aboard their Ships again the 31st of October This Lagune is about the lat of 16 d. 40 m. North. From hence we made sail again coasting to the Westward having fair weather and a Current setting to the West The second day of November we past by a Rock called by the Spaniards the Algatross The Land hereabout is of an indifferent height and woody and more within the Country Mountainous Here are 7 or 8 white cliffs by the Sea which are very remarkable because there are none so white and so thick together on all the Coast. They are 5 or 6 mile to the West of the Algatross Rock There is a dangerous shoal lieth S. by W. from these Cliffs 4 or 5 mile off at Sea Two leagues to the West of these Cliffs there is a pretty large River which forms a small Island at its mouth The Channel on the East side is but shoal and sandy but the West Channel is deep enough for Canoas to enter On the Banks of this Channel the Spaniards have made a Brestwork to hinder an Enemy from landing or filling Water The 3d day we anchored abrest of this River in 14 fathom Water about a mile and a half off shore The next morning we mann'd our Canoas and went ashore to the Brestwork with little resistance although there were about 200 men to keep us off They fired about 20 or 30 Guns at us but seeing we were resolved to land they quitted the place one chief reason why the Spaniards are so frequently routed by us although many times much our superiors in numbers and in many places fortified with Brestworks is their want of small Fire-arms for they have but few on all the Sea Coasts unless near their larger Garrisons Here we found a great deal of Salt brought hither as I judge for to salt Fish which they take in the Lagunes The Fish I observed here mostly were what we call Snooks neither a Sea-fish nor fresh Water-fish but very numerous in these salt Lakes This Fish is about a foot long and round and as thick as the small of a mans Leg with a pretty long head It hath Scales of a whitish colour and is good meat How the Spaniards take them I know not for we never found any Nets Hooks or Lines neither yet any Bark Boat or Canoa among them on all this Coast except the Ship I shall mention at Acapulco We marched 2 or 3 leagues into the Country and met with but one House where we took a Mulatto Prisoner who informed us of a Ship that was lately arrived at Acapulco she came from Lima. Captain Townly wanting a good Ship thought now he had an opportunity of getting one if he could perswade his men to venture with him into the Harbour of Acapulco and fetch this Lima Ship out Therefore he immediately proposed it and found not only all his own men willing to assist him but many of Captain Swan's men also Captain Swan opposed it because Provision being scarce with us he thought our time might be much better imployed in first providing our selves with food and here was plenty of Maiz in the River where we now were as we were informed by the same Prisoner who offered to conduct us to the place where it was But neither the present necessity nor Captain Swan's perswasion availed any thing no nor yet their own interest for the great design we had then in hand was to lye and wait for a rich Ship which comes to Acapulco every year richly laden from the Philippine Islands But it was necessary we should be well stored with Provisions to enable us to cruize about and wait the time of her coming However Townley's Party prevailing we only fill'd our Water here and made ready to be gone So the 5th day in the afternoon we sailed again coasting to the westward towards Acapulco The 7th day in the afternoon being about 12 leagues from the shore we saw the high Land of Acapulco which is very remarkable for there is a round Hill standing between other 2 Hills the westermost of which is the biggest and highest and hath two Hillocks like two paps on its top the eastermost Hill is higher and sharper than the middlemost From the middle Hill the Land declines toward the Sea ending in a high round point There is no Land shaped like this on all the Coast. In the evening Captain Townly went away from the Ships with 140 men in 12 Canoas to try to get the Lima Ship out of Acapulco Harbour Acapulco is a pretty large Town 17 degrees North of the Equator It is the Sea-port for the City of Mexico on the West side of the Continent as La Vera-Cruz or St. John d' Ulloa in the Bay of Nova Hispania is on the North side This Town is the only place of Trade on all this Coast for there is little or no Traffick by Sea on all the N. W. part of this vast Kingdom
here being as I have said neither Boats Barks nor Ships that I could ever see unless only what come hither from other parts and some Boats near the S. E. end of California as I guess by the intercourse between that and the Main for Pearl-fishing The Ships that Trade hither are only 3 two that constantly go once a year between this and Manila in Luconia one of the Phillipine Islands and one Ship more every year to and from Lima. This from Lima commonly arrives a little before Christmas she brings them Quick-silver Cacao and pieces of Eight Here she stays till the Manila Ship arrives and then takes in a Cargo of Spices Silks Callicoes and Muzlins and other East India Commodities for the use of Peru and then returns to Lima. This is but a small Vessel of 20 Guns but the 2 Manila Ships are each said to be above 1000 Tun. These make their Voyages alternately so that one or other of them is always at the Manillas When either of them sets out from Acapulco it is at the latter end of March or the beginning of April she alwas touches to refresh at Guam one of the Ladrone Islands in about 60 days space after she sets out There she stays but 2 or 3 days and then prosecutes her Voyage to Manila where she commonly arrives some time in June By that time the other is ready to sail from thence laden with East India Commodities She stretcheth away to the North as far as 36 or sometimes into 40 degrees of North lat before she gets a wind to stand over to the American shore She falls in first with the Coast of California and then Coasts along the shore to the South again and never misses of a wind to bring her away from thence quite to Acapulco When she gets the length of Cape St. Lucas which is the Southermost point of California she stretcheth over to Cape Cortientes which is in about the 20th degree of North lat from thence she Coasts along till she comes to Sallagua and there she sets ashore Passengers that are bound to the City of Mexico From thence she makes her best way coasting still along shore till she arrives at Acapulco which is commonly about Christmas never more than 8 or 10 days before or after Upon the return of this Ship to the Manila the other which stayeth there till her arrival takes her turn back to Acapulco Sir John Narborough therefore was imposed on by the Spaniards who told him that there were 6 sail or more that used this Trade The Port of Acapulco is very commodious for the reception of Ships and so large that some hundreds may safely ride there without damnifying each other There is a small low Island crossing the mouth of the Harbour it is about a mile and a half long and half a mile broad stretching East and West It leaves a good wide deep Channel at each end where Ships may safely go in or come out taking the advantage of the Winds they must enter with the Sea-wind and go out with the Land-wind for these Winds seldom or never fail to succeed each other alternately in their proper seasons of the day or night The Westermost Channel is the narrowest but so deep there is no anchoring and the Manila Ships pass in that way but the Ships from Lima enters on the S. W. Channel This Harbour runs in North about 3 miles then growing very narrow it turns short about to the West and runs about a mile farther where it ends The Town stands on the N. W. side at the mouth of this narrow passage close by the Sea and at the end of the Town there is a Platform with a great many Guns Opposite to the Town on the East side stands a high strong Castle said to have 40 Guns of a very great bore Ships commonly ride near the bottom of the Harbour under the Command both of the Castle and the Platform Captain Townly who as I said before with 140 men left our Ships on a design to fetch the Lima Ship out of the Harbour had not rowed above 3 or 4 leagues before the Voyage was like to end with all their Lives for on a sudden they were encountered with a violent Tornado from the shore which had like to have foundered all the Canoas but they escaped that danger and the second night got safe into Port Marquis Port Marquis is a very good Harbour a league to the East of Acapulco Harbour Here they staid all the next day to dry themselves their Cloaths their Arms and Ammunition and the next night they rowed softly into Acapulco Harbour and because they would not be heard they hal'd in their Oars and paddled as softly as if they had been seeking Manatee They paddled close to the Castle then struck over to the Town and found the Ship riding between the Brestwork and the Fort within about 100 yards of each When they had well viewed her and considered the danger of the design they thought it not possible to accomplish it therefore they paddled softly back again till they were out of command of the Forts and then they went to land and fell in among a company of Spanish Soldiers for the Spaniards having seen them the day before had set Guards along the Coast who immediately fired at them but did them no damage only made them retire farther from the shore They lay afterwards at the mouth of the Harbour till it was day to take a view of the Town and Castle and then returned aboard again being tired hungry and sorry for their disappointment The 11th day we made sail again further on to the Westward with the Land-wind which is commonly at N. E. but the Sea Winds are at S. W. We passed by a long sandy Bay of above 20 leagues All the way along it the Sea falls with such force on the shore that it is impossible to come near it with Boat or Canoa yet it is good clean ground and good anchoring a mile or two from the shore The Land by the Sea is low and indifferent fertile producing many sorts of Trees especially the spreading Palm which grows in spots from one end of the Bay to the other The Palm-tree is as big as an ordinary Ash growing about 20 or 30 foot high The body is clear from boughs or branches till just at the head there it spreads forth many large green branches not much unlike the Cabbage-tree before described These branches also grow in many places as in Jamaica Darien the Bay of Campeachy c. from a stump not above a foot or two high which is not the remains of a Tree cut down for none of these sort of Trees will ever grow again when they have once lost their head but these are a sort of Dwarf-palm and the branches which grow from the stump are not so large as those that grow on the great Tree These smaller branches are used both in the East
and West Indies for thatching Houses they are very lasting and serviceable much surpassing the Palmeto For this Thatch if well laid on will endure 5 or 6 years and this is called by the Spaniards the Palmeto Royal. The English at Jamaica give it the same Name Whether this be the same which they in Guinea get the Palm-wine from I know not but I know that it is like this The Land in the Country is full of small peeked barren Hills making as many little Valleys which appear flourishing and green At the West end of this Bay is the Hill of Petaplan in lat 17d 30 m. N. This is a round point stretching out into the Sea at a distance it seems to be an Island A little to the West of this Hill are several round Rocks which we left without us steering in between them and the round point where we had 11 fathom water We came to an anchor on the N. W. side of the Hill and went ashore about 170 Men of us and marched into the Country 12 or 14 miles There we came to a poor Indian Village that did not afford us a Meal of Victuals The people all fled only a Mulatto woman and 3 or 4 small Children who were taken and brought aboard She told us that a Carrier one who drives a Caravan of Mules was going to Acapulco laden with Flower and other Goods but stopt in the Road for fear of us a little to the West of this Village for he had heard of our being on this Coast and she thought he still remained there and therefore it was we kept the Woman to be our Guide to carry us to that place At this place where we now lay our Moskito-men struck some small Turtle and many small Jew-fish The Jew-fish is a very good Fish and I judge so called by the English because it hath Scales and Fins therefore a clean Fish according to the Levitical Law and the Jews at Jamaica buy them and eat them very freely It is a very large Fish shaped much like a Cod but a great deal bigger one will weigh 3 or 4 or 5 hundred weight It hath 3 large head with great Fins and Scales as big as an Half-Crown answerable to the bigness of his body It is very sweet Meat and commonly fat This Fish lives among Rocks there are plenty of them in the West Indies about Jamaica and the Coast of Caraccos but chiefly in these Seas especially more Westward We went from hence with our Ships the 18th day and steered West about 2 leagues farther to a place called Chequetan A mile and half from the shore there is a small Key and within it is a very good Harbour where Ships may careen there is also a small River of fresh water and wood enough The 14th day in the morning we went with 95 Men in 6 Canoas to seek for the Carrier taking the Mulatto woman for our Guide but Captain Townly would not go with us Before day we landed at a place called Estapa a league to the West of Chequetan The woman was well acquainted here having been often at this place for Muscles as she told us for here are great plenty of them they seem in all respects like our English Muscles She carry'd us through the pathless Wood by the side of a River for about a league then we came into a Savannah full of Bulls and Cows and here the Carrier before mentioned was lying at the Estantion-house with his Mules not having dared to advance all this while as not knowing where we lay so his own fear made him his Mules and all his Goods become a Prey to us He had 40 packs of Flower some Chocolate a great many small Cheeses and abundance of Earthen Ware The eatables we brought away but the Earthen Vessels we had no occasion for and therefore left them The Mules were about 60 we brought our Prize with them to the shore and so turn'd them away Here we also kill'd some Cows and brought with us to our Canoas In the afternoon our Ships came to an anchor half a mile from the place where we landed and then we went aboard Captain Townly seeing our good success went ashore with his Men to kill some Cows for here were no Inhabitants near to oppose us The Land is very woody of a good fertile soil watered with many small Rivers yet it hath but few Inhabitants near the Sea Captain Townly killed 18 Beefs and after he came aboard our Men contrary to Captain Swan's inclination gave Captain Townly part of the Flower which we took ashore Afterwards we gave the Woman some Cloaths for her and her Children and put her and two of them ashore but one of them a very pretty Boy about 7 or 8 years old Captain Swan kept The Woman cried and begg'd hard to have him but Captain Swan would not but promis'd to make much of him and was as good as his word He proved afterwards a very fine Boy for Wit Courage and Dexterity I have often wonder'd at his Expressions and Actions The 21st day in the evening we sailed hence with the Land-wind The Land-winds on this part of the Coast are at N. and the Sea-winds at W. S. W. We had fair weather and coasted along to the Westward The Land is high and full of ragged Hills and West from these ragged Hills the Land makes many pleasant and fruitful Valleys among the Mountains The 25th day we were abrest of a very remarkable Hill which towring above the rest of its fellows is divided in the top and makes two small parts It is in lat 18 d. 8 m. North. The Spaniards make mention of a Town called Thelupan near this Hill which we would have visited if we could have found the way to it The 26th day Captain Swan and Captain Townly with 200 Men of whom I was one went in our Canoas to seek for the City of Colima a rich place by report but how far within Land I could never learn for as I said before here is no Trade by Sea and therefore we could never get Guides to inform us or conduct us to any Town but one or two on this Coast and there is never a Town that lieth open to the Sea but Acapulco and therefore our search was commonly fruitless as now for we rowed above 20 leagues along shore and found it a very bad Coast to land we saw no House nor sign of Inhabitants although we past by a fine Valley called the Valley of Maguella only at two places the one at our first setting out on this Expedttion and the other at the end of it we saw a Horseman set as we supposed as a Centinel to watch us At both places we landed with difficulty and at each place we followed the track of the Horse on the sandy Bay but where they entered the Woods we lost the track and although we diligently searcht for it yet we could find it no more so we
told them that the River Rosario is rich in Gold and that the Mines are not above 2 leagues from the Town Captain Swan did not think it convenient to go to the Mines but made haste aboard with the Maiz which he took there to the quantity of about 80 or 90 Bushels and which to us in the scarcity we were in of Provisions was at that time more valuable than all the Gold in the world and had he gone to the Mines the Spaniards would probably have destroyed the Corn before his return The 3d day of February we went with our Ships also towards the River Rosario and anchored the next day against the Rivers mouth in 7 fathom good oazy ground a league from the shore This River is in lat 22 d 51 m. N. When you are at an anchor against this River you will see a round Hill like a Sugar-loaf a little way within Land right over the River and bearing N. E. by N. To the Westward of that Hill there is another pretty long Hill called by the Spaniards Caput Cavalli or the Horse's Head The 7th day Captain Swan came aboard with the Maiz which he got This was but a small quantity for so many Men as we were especially considering the place we were in being strangers and having no Pilots to direct or guide us into any River and we being without all sort of Provision but what we were forced to get in this manner from the shore And though our Pilot-book directed us well enough to find the Rivers yet for want of Guides to carry us to the Settlements we were forced to search 2 or 3 days before we could find a place to land for as I have said before besides the Seas being too rough for landing in many places they have neither Boat Bark nor Canoa that we could ever see or hear of and therefore as there are no such landing places in these Rivers as there are in the South Seas so when we were landed we did not know which way to go to any Town except we accidentally met with a path Indeed the Spaniards and Indians whom we had aboard knew the Names of several Rivers and Towns near them and knew the Towns when they saw them but they knew not the way to go to them from the Sea The 8th day Captain Swan sent about 40 men to seek for the River Oleta which is to the East-ward of the River Rosario The next day we followed after with the Ships having the Wind at W. N. W. and fair weather In the afternoon our Canoas came again to us for they could not find the River Oleta therefore we designed next for the River St. Jago to the Eastward still The 11th day in the evening we anchored against the mouth of the River in 7 fathom water good soft oazy ground and about 2 mile from the shore There was a high white Rock without us called Maxentelbo This Rock at a distance appears like a Ship under sail it bore from us W. N. W. distant about 3 leagues The Hill Zelisco bore S. E. which is a very high Hill in the Country with a Saddle or bending on the top The River St. Jago is in 〈◊〉 22 d. 15 m. It is one of the principal Rivers on this Coast there is 10 foot Water on the bar at low Water but how much it flows here I know not The mouth of this River is near half a mile broad and very smooth entring Within the mouth it is broader for there are 3 or 4 Rivers more meet there and issue all out together The Water is brackish a great way up yet there is fresh Water to be had by digging or making Wells in the sandy Bay 2 or 3 foot deep just at the mouth of the River The 11th day Captain Swan sent 70 men in 4 Canoas into this River to seek a Town for although we had no intelligence of any yet the Country appearing very promising we did not question but they would find Inhabitants before they returned They spent 2 days in rowing up and down the Creeks and Rivers at last they came to a large Field of Maiz which was almost ripe They immediately fell to gathering as fast as they could and intended to lade the Canoas but seeing an Indian that was set to watch the Corn they quitted that troublesom and tedious work and seiz'd him and brought him aboard in hopes by his information to have some more easy and expedite way of a supply by finding Corn ready cut and dried He being examined said that there was a Town called Santa Pecaque 4 leagues from the place where he was taken and that if we designed to go thither he would undertake to be our Guide Captain Swan immediately ordered his men to make ready and the same evening went away with 8 Canoas and 140 men taking the Indian for their Guide He rowed about 5 leagues up the River and landed the next morning The River at this place was not above Pistol shot wide and the Banks pretty high one each side and the Land plain and even He left 23 men to guard the Canoas and marcht with the rest to the Town He set out from the Canoas at 6 a clock in the morning and reacht the Town by 10. The way thro which he passed was very plain part of it Wood-land part Savannahs The Savannahs were full of Horses Bulls and Cows The Spaniards seeing him coming run all away so he entered the Town without the least opposition This Town of Santa Pecaque stands on a Plain in a Savannah by the side of a VVood with many Fruit Trees about it It is but a small Town but very regular after the Spanish mode with a Parade in the midst The Houses fronting the Parade had all Balconies there were 2 Churches one against the Parade the other at the end of the Town It is inhabited most with Spaniards Their chiefest occupation is Husbandry There are also some Carriers who are imployed by the Merchants of Compostella to trade for them to and from the Mines Compostella is a rich Town about 21 leagues from hence It is the chiefest in all this part of the Kingdom and is reported to have 70 white Families which is a great matter in these parts for it may be that such a Town hath not less than 500 Families of copper-coloured People besides the white The Silver Mines are about 5 or 6 leagues from Santa Pecaque where as we were told the Inhabitants of Compostella had some hundreds of Slaves at work The Silver here and all over the Kingdom of Mexico is said to be finer and richer in proportion than that of Potosi or Peru tho the Oar be not so abundant and the Carriers of this Town of Santa Pecaque carry the Oar to Compostella where it is refined These Carriers or Sutlers also furnish the Slaves at the Mines with Maiz whereof here was great plenty now in the Town designed for that
Canby particularly who hath sailed as a Mate in a great many Voyages from Cape Lopez on the Coast of Guinea to Barbadoes and is much esteem d as a very sensible man hath often told me that he constantly found the distance to be between 60 and 62 degree whereas 't is laid down in 68 69 70 and 72 degrees in the common draughts As to the supposition it self which our Seamen make in the allowing but 60 miles to a degree I am not ignorant how much this hath been canvased of late years especially and that the prevailing opinion hath been that about 70 or upwards should be allowed But till I can see some better grounds for the exactness of these tryals that have been made on Land by Mr. Norwood and others considering the inequality of the Earths surface as well as the obliquity of the way in their allowing for which I am somewhat doubtful of their measures upon the whole matter I cannot but adhere to the general Sea-Calculation confirmed as to the main by daily experience till some more certain estimate shall be made than those hitherto attempted For we find our selves when we sail North or South to be brought to our intended place in a time agreeable enough with what we expect upon the usual supposition making all reasonable allowance for the little unavoidable deviations East or West and there seems no reason why the same estimate should not serve us in crosing the Meridians which we find so true in sailing under them As to this course of ours to Guam particularly we should rather increase than shorten our estimate of the length of it considering that the Easterly Wind and Current being so strong and bearing therefore our Log after us as is usual in such cases should we therefore in casting up the run of the Log make allowance for so much space as the Log it self drove after us which is commonly 3 or 4 miles in 100 in so brisk a gale as this was we must have reckoned more than 125 degrees but in this Voyage we made no such allowance though it be usual to do it so that how much soever this computation of mine exceeds the common Draughts yet is it of the shortest according to our experiment and calculation But to proceed with our Voyage The Island Guam or Guahon as the Native Indians pronounce it is one of the Ladrone Islands belongs to the Spaniards who have a small Fort with 6 Guns in it with a Governour and 20 or 30 Soldiers They keep it for the relief and refreshment of their Philippine Ships that touch here in their way from Acapulco to Manila but the Winds will not so easily let them take this way back again The Spaniards of late have named Guam the Island Maria it is about 12 leagues long and 4 broad lying N. and S. It is pretty high Champion Land The 21st day of May 1686 at 11 a clock in the evening we anchored near the middle of the Island Guam on the West side a mile from the shore At a distance it appears flat and even but coming near it you will find it stands shelving and the East side which is much the highest is fenced with steep Rocks that oppose the violence of the Sea which continually rage against it being driven with the constant Trade-wind and on that side there is no anchoring The West side is pretty low and full of small sandy Bays divided with as many rocky points The Soil of the Island is reddish dry and indifferent fruitful The Fruits are chiesly Rice Pine-apples Water-melons Musk-melons Oranges and Limes Coco-nuts and a sort of Fruit called by us Bread-fruit The Coco-nut Trees grow by the Sea on the Western side in great groves 3 or 4 miles in length and a mile or 2 broad This Tree is in shape like the Cabbage-tree and at a distance they are not to be known each from other only the Coco-nut Tree is fuller of Branches but the Cabbage-tree generally is much higher though the Coco-nut Trees in some places are very high The Nut or Fruit grows at the head of the Tree among the Branches and in clusters 10 or 12 in a cluster The Branch to which they grow is about the bigness of a mans arm and as long running small towards the end It is of a yellow colour full of knots and very tough The Nut is generally bigger than a mans head The outer Rind is near 2 inches thick before you come to the Shell the Shell it self is black thick and very hard The Kernel in some Nuts is near an inch thick sticking to the inside of the Shell clear round leaving a hollow in the middle of it which contains about a pint more or less according to the bigness of the Nut for some are much bigger than others This Cavity is full of sweet delicate wholsom and refreshing Water While the Nut is growing all the inside is full of this Water without any Kernel at all but as the Nut grows towards its maturity the Kernel begins to gather and settle round on the inside of the Shell and is soft like Cream and as the Nut ripens it increaseth in substance and becomes hard The ripe Kernel is sweet enough but very hard to digest therefore seldom eaten except by strangers who know not the effects of it but while it is young and soft like pap some men will eat it scraping it out with a spoon after they have drunk the water that was within it I like the Water best when the Nut is almost ripe for it is then sweetest and briskest When these Nuts are ripe and gathered the outside Rind becomes of a brown rusty colour so that one would think that they were dead and dry yet they will sprout out like Onions after they have been hanging in the Sun 3 or 4 months or thrown about in a House or Ship and if planted afterward in the Earth they will grow up to a Tree Before they thus sprout out there is a small spungy round knob grows in the inside which we call an Apple This at first is no bigger than the top of ones finger but increaseth daily sucking up the Water till it is grown so big as to fill up the Cavity of the Coco-nut and then it begins to sprout forth By this time the Nut that was hard begins to grow oily and soft thereby giving passage to the sprout that springs from the Apple which Nature hath so contrived that it points to the hole in the Shell of which there are 3 till it grows ripe just where it 's fastened by its Stalk to the Tree but one of these holes remains open even when it is ripe through which it creeps and spreads forth its Branches You may let these teeming Nuts sprout out a foot and half or 2 foot high before you plant them for they will grow a great while like an Onion out of their own substance Beside the Liquor or Water in the
Besides these there are an infinite number of small Islands of no account and even the great Islands many of them are without Names or at least so variously set down that I find the same Islands named by divers Names The Island St. John and Mindanao are the Southern-most of all these Islands and are the only Islands in all this Range that are not subject to the Spaniards St. Johns Island is on the East side of the Mindanao and distant from it 3 or 4 leagues It is in lat about 7 or 8 North. This Island is in length about 38 leagues stretching N. N. W. and S. S. E. and it is in breadth about 24 leagues in the middle of the Island The Northermost end is broader and the Southermost is narrower This Island is of a good heighth and is full of many small hills The Land at the South East end where I was ashore is of a black fat mould and the whole Island seems to partake of the same fatness by the vast number of large Trees that it produceth for it looks all over like one great Grove As we were passing by the S. E. end we saw a Canoa of the Natives under the shore therefore one of our Canoas went after to have spoken with her but she run away from us seeing themselves chaced put their Canoa ashore leaving her fled into the Woods nor would be allured to come to us altho we did what we could to entice them besides these Men we saw no more here nor sign of any Inhabitants at this end When we came aboard our Ship again we steered away for the Island Mindanao which was now fair in sight of us it being about 10 leagues distant from this part of St. Johns The 22d day we came within a league of the East side of the Island Mindanao and having the Wind at S. E. we steered toward the North end keeping on the East side till we came into the lat of 7d 40 m. and there we anchored in a small Bay about a mile from the shore in 10 fathom Water rocky foul ground Some of our Books gave us an account that Mindanao City and Isle lies in 7d 40 m. we guest that the middle of the Island might lye in this lat but we were at a great loss where to find the City whether on the East or West side Indeed had it been a small Island lying open to the Eastern Wind we might probably have searched first on the West side for commonly the Islands within the Tropicks or within the bounds of the Trade-Winds have their Harbours on the West sido as best sheltered but the Island Mindanao being guarded on the East side by St. Johns Island we might as reasonably expect to find the Harbour and City on this side as any where else but coming into the lat in which we judg'd the City might be found no Canoas or People that might give as any umbrage of a City or place of Trade near at hand though we coasted within a league of the shore The Island Mindanao is the biggest of all the Philippine Islands except Luconia It is about 60 leagues long and 40 or 50 broad The South end is in about 5 d. N. and the N. W. end reacheth almost to 8 d. N. It is a very mountainous Island full of Hills and Valleys The Mould in general is deep and black and extraordinary fat and fruitful The sides of the Hills are stony yet productive enough of very large tall Trees In the heart of the Country there are some Mountains that yield good Gold The Valleys are well moistned with pleasant Brooks and small Rivers of delicate Water and have Trees of divers sorts flourishing and green all the year The Trees in general are very large and most of them are of kinds unknown to us There is one sort which deserves particular notice called by the Natives Libby Trees These grow wild in great Groves of 5 or 6 mile long by the sides of the Rivers Of these Trees Sago is made which the poor Country People eat instead of Bread 3 or 4 months in the year This Tree for its body and shape is much like the Palmeto tree or the Cabbage tree but not so tall as the latter The Bark and Wood is hard and thin like a Shell and full of white Pith like the Pith of an Elder This Tree they cut down and split it in the middle and scrape out all the Pith which they beat lustily with a wooden Pestle in a great Mortar or Trough and then put into a Cloth or Strainer held over a Trough and pouring Water in among the Pith they stir it about in the Cloth so the Water carries all the substance of the Pith through the Cloth down into the Trough leaving nothing in the Cloth but a light sort of Husk which they throw away but that which falls into the Trough settles in a short time to the bottom like Mud and then they draw off the Water and take up the muddy substance wherewith they make Cakes which being baked proves very good Bread The Mindanao People live 3 or 4 months of the year on this food for their Bread kind The Native Indians of Teranate and Tidore and all the Spice Islands have plenty of these Trees and use them for food in the same manner as I have been inform'd by Mr. Caril Rofy who is now Commander of one of the Kings Ships He was one of our company at this time and being left with Captain Swan at Mindanao went afterwards to Teranate and lived there among the Dutch a year or two The Sago which is transported into other parts of the East Indies is dried in small pieces like little Seeds or Comfits and commonly eaten with Milk of Almonds by those that are troubled with the Flux for it is a great binder and very good in that distemper In some places of Mindanao there is plenty of Rice but in the hilly Land they plant Yams Potatoes and Pumkins all which thrive very well The other Fruits of this Island are Water-Melons Musk-Melons Plantains Bonanoes Guava's Nutmegs Cloves Betel-nuts Durians Jacks or Jaca's Coco-nuts Oranges c. The Plantain I take to be the King of all Fruit not except the Coco it self The Tree that bears this Fruit is about 3 foot or 3 foot and an half round and about 10 or 12 foot high These Trees are not raised from seed for they seem not to have any but from the roots of other old Trees If these young suckers are taken out of the ground and planted in another place it will be 15 months before they bear but if let stand in their own native Soil they will bear in 12 months As soon as the Fruit is ripe the Tree decays but then there are many young ones growing up to supply its place When this Tree first springs out of the ground it comes up with 2 leaves and by that time it is a foot
the S. E. end of the Island Mindanao we saw two small Islands about 3 leagues distant from it We might have passed between them and the main Island as we learnt since but not knowing them nor what dangers we might encounter there we chose rather to sail to the Eastward of them But meeting very strong Westerly Winds we got nothing forward in many days In this time we first saw the Islands Meangis which are about 16 leagues distant from the Mindanao bearing S. E. I shall have occasion to speak more of them hereafter The 4th day of July we got into a deep Bay 4 leagues N. W. from the two small Islands before mentioned But the night before in a violent Tornado our Bark being unable to beat any longer bore away which put us in some pain for fear she was overset as we had like to have been our selves We anchored on the South West side of the Bay in 15 fathom Water about a Cables length from the shore Here we were forced to shelter our selves from the violence of the Weather which was so boisterous with Rains and Tornadoes and a strong Westerly Wind that we were very glad to find this place to anchor in being the only shelter on this side from the West Winds This Bay is not above two mile wide at the mouth but farther in it is 3 leagues wide and 7 leagues deep running in N. N. W. There is a good depth of Water about 4 or 5 leagues in but rocky foul ground for above 2 leagues in from the mouth on both sides of the Bay except only in that place where we lay About 3 leagues in from the mouth on the Eastern side there are fair sandy Bays and very good anchoring in 4 5 and 6 fathom The Land on the East side is high mountainous and woody yet very well watered with small Brooks and there is one River large enough for Canoas to enter On the West side of the Bay the Land is of a mean heighth with a large Savannah bordering on the Sea and stretching from the mouth of the Bay a great way to the Westward This Savannah abounds with long Grass and it is plentifully stock'd with Deer The adjacent Woods are a covert for them in the heat of the day but mornings and evenings they feed in the open Plains as thick as in our Parks in England I never saw any where such plenty of wild Deer tho I have met with them in several parts of America both in the North and South Seas The Deer live here pretty peaceably and unmolested for there are no Inhabitants on that side of the Bay We visited this Savannah every morning and killed as many Deer as we pleased sometimes 16 or 18 in a day and we did eat nothing but Venison all the time we staid here We saw a great many Plantations by the sides of the Mountains on the East side of the Bay and we went to one of them in hopes to learn of the Inhabitants whereabouts the City was that we might not over-sail it in the night but they fled from us We lay here till the 12th day before the Winds abated of their fury and then we sailed from hence directing our course to the Westward In the morning we had a Land Wind at North. At 11 a clock the Sea breeze came at West just in our Teeth but it being fair weather we kept on our way turning and taking the advantage of the Land breezes by night and the Sea breezes by day Being now past the S. E. part of the Island we coasted down on the South side and we saw abundance of Canoas a fishing and now and then a small Village Neither were these Inhabitants afraid of us as the former but came aboard yet we could not understand them nor they us but by signs and when we mentioned the word Mindanao they would point towards it The 18th day of July we arrived before the River of Mindanao the mouth of which lies in lat 6 d. 22 m. No. and is laid in 231 d. 12 m. Longitude West from the Lizard in England We anchored right against the River in 15 fathom water clear hard Sand about 2 miles from the shore and 3 or 4 miles from a small Island that lay without us to the Southward We fired 7 or 9 Guns I remember not well which and were answered again with 3 from the shore for which we gave one again Immediately after our coming to an anchor Raja Laut and one of the Sultans Sons came off in a Canoa being rowed with 10 Oars and demanded in Spanish what we were and from whence we came Mr. Smith he who was taken Prisoner at Leon in Mexico answered in the same Language that we were English and that we had been a great while out of England They told us that we were welcom and asked us a great many questions about England especially concerning our East India Merchants and whether we were sent by them to settle a Factory here Mr. Smith told them that we came hither only to buy provision They seemed a little discontented when they understood that we were not come to settle among them for they had heard of our arrival on the East side of the Island a great while before and entertained hopes that we were sent purposely out of England hither to settle a trade with them which it should seem they are very desirous of For Captain Goodlud had been here not long before to treat with them about it and when he went away told them as they said that in a short time they might expect an Ambassadour from England to make a full bargain with them Indeed upon mature thoughts I should think we could not have done better than to have complied with the desire they seemed to have of our settling here and to have taken up our quarters among them For as thereby we might better have consulted our own profit and satisfaction than by the other loose roving way of life so it might probably have proved of publick benefit to our Nation and been a means of introducing an English Settlement and Trade not only here but through several of the Spice-Islands which lye in its neighbourhood For the Islands Meangis which I mentioned in the beginning of this Chapter lye within 20 leagues of Mindanao These are 3 small Islands that abound with Gold and Cloves if I may credit my Author Prince Jeoly who was born on one of them and was at this time a Slave in the City of Mindanao He might have been purchased by us of his Master for a small matter as he was afterwards by Mr. Moody who came hither to Trade and laded a Ship with Clove Bark and by transporting him home to his own Country we might have gotten a Trade there But of Prince Jeoly I shall speak more hereafter These Islands are as yet probably unknown to the Dutch who as I said before indeavour to ingross all
and they proved very tough heavy Canes We saw no Houses nor sign of Inhabitants but while we lay here there was a Canoa with 6 men came into this Bay but whether they were bound or from whence they came I know not They were Indians and we could not understand them In the middle of this Bay about a mile from the shore there is small low woody Island not above a mile in circumference our Ship rode about a mile from it This Island was the habitation of an incredible number of great Batts with bodies as big as Ducks or larger Fowl and with vast Wings For I saw at Mindanao one of this sort and I judge that the Wings stretcht out in length could not be less asunder than 7 or 8 foot from tip to tip for it was much more than any of us could fathom with our Arms extended to the utmost The Wings are for substance like those of other Batts of a dun or mouse colour The Skin or Leather of them hath Ribs running along it and draws up in 3 or 4 folds and at the joints of those Ribs and the extremities of the Wings there are sharp crooked Claws by which they may hang on any thing In the evening as soon as the Sun was set these Creatures would begin to take their flight from this Island in swarms like Bees directing their flight over to the main Island and whether afterwards I know not Thus we should see them rising up from the Island till night hindred our sight and in the morning as soon as it was light we should see them returning again like a Cloud to the small Island till Sun rising This course they kept constantly while we lay here affording us every morning and evening an hours diversion in gazing at them and talking about them but our curiosity did not prevail with us to go ashore to them our selves and Canoas being all the day time taken up in business about our Ship At this Isle also we found plenty of Turtle and Manatee but no Fish We stay'd here till the 10th of February 1687 and then having compleated our business we sailed hence with the Wind at North. But going out we struck on a Rock where we lay two hours It was very smooth Water and the Tide of flood or else we should there have lost our Ship We struck off a great piece of our Rudder which was all the damage that we received but we more narrowly mist losing our Ship this time than in any other in the whole Voyage This is a very dangerous Shoal because it does not break unless probably it may appear in foul weather It lies about two mile to the Westward without the small Batt Island Here we found the Tide of flood setting to the Southward and the Ebb to the Northward After we were past this Shoal we coasted along by the rest of the Philippine Islands keeping on the West side of them Some of them appeared to be very Mountainous dry Land We saw many fires in the night as we passed by Panay a great Island settled by Spaniards and by the fires up and down it seems to be well settled by them for this is a Spanish custom whereby they give notice of any danger or the like from Sea and 't is probable they had seen our Ship the day before This is an unfrequented Coast and 't is rare to have any Ship seen there We touched not at Panay nor any where else tho we saw a great many small Islands to the Westward of us and some Shoals but none of them laid down in our draughts The 18th day of Feb. we anchored at the N. W. end of the Island Mindora in 10 fathom Water about 3 quarters of a mile from the shore Mindora is a large Island the middle of it lying in lat 13 about 40 leagues long stretching N. W. and S. E. It is high and Mountainous and not very woody At this place where we anchored the Land was neither very high nor low There was a small Brook of Water and the Land by the Sea was very woody and the Trees high and tall but a league or two farther in the Woods are very thin and small Here we saw great tracks of Hogs and Beef and we saw some of each and hunted them but they were wild and we could kill none While we were here there was a Canoa with 4 Indians came from Manila They were very shie of us a while but at last hearing us speak Spanish they came to us and told us that they were going to a Frier that liv'd at an Indian Village towards the S. E. end of the Island They told us also that the Harbour of Manila is seldom or never without 20 or 30 Sail of Vessels most Chinese some Portugueze and some few the Spaniards have of their own They said that when they had done their business with the Frier they would return to Manila and hoped to be back again at this place in 4 days time We told them that we came for a Trade with the Spaniards at Manila and should be glad if they would carry a Letter to some Merchant there which they promised to do But this was only a pretence of ours to get out of them what intelligence we could as to their Shipping Strength and the like under colour of seeking a Trade for our business was to pillage Now if we had really designed to have traded here this was as fair an opportunity as Men could have desired for these men could have brought us to the Frier that they were going to and a small Present to him would have engaged him to do any kindness for us in the way of Trade for the Spanish Governors do not allow of it and we must Trade by stealth The 21st day we went from hence with the wind at E. N. E. a small gale The 23d day in the morning we were fair by the S. E. end of the Island Luconia the place that had been so long desired by us We presently saw a Sail coming from the Northward and making after her we took her in 2 hours time She was a Spanish Bark that came from a place called Pangasanam a small Town on the N. end of Luconia as they told us probably the same with Pongassinay which lies on a Bay at the N. W. side of the Island She was bound to Manila but had no Goods aboard and therefore we turned her away The 23d we took another Spanish Vessel that came from the same place as the other She was laden with Rice and Cotton-cloath and bound for Manila also These Goods were purposely for the Acapulco Ship the Rice was for the Men to live on while they lay there and in their return and the Cotton-cloath was to make Sails The Master of this Prize was Boatswain of the Acapulco Ship which escaped us at Guam and was now at Manila It was this Man that gave us the relation of what
a steep bank Therefore we never strive to anchor where we see the Land high and bounding the Sea with steep Cliffs and for this reason when we came in sight of States Island near Terra del Fuego before we entered into the South Seas we did not so much as think of anchoring after we saw what Land it was because of the steep Cliffs which appear'd against the Sea Yet there might be little Harbours or Coves for Shallops or the like to anchor in which we did not see nor search after As high steep Cliffs bounding on the Sea have this ill consequence that they seldom afford anchoring so they have this benefit that we can see them far off and sail close to them without danger for which reason we call them Bold Shores Whereas low Land on the contrary is seen but a little way and in many places we dare not come near it for fear of running aground before we see it Besides there are in many places shoals thrown out by the course of great Rivers that from the low Land fall into the Sea This which I have said that there is usually good anchoring near low Lands may be illustrated by several instances Thus on the South side of the Bay of Campeachy there is mostly low Land and there also is good anchoring all along shore and in some places to the Eastward of the Town of Campeachy we shall have so many fathom as we are leagues off from Land that is from 9 or 10 leagues distance till you come within 4 leagues and from thence to Land it grows but shallower The Bay of Honduras also is low Land and continues mostly so as we past along from thence to the Coasts of Portobel and Cartagena till we came as high as Santa Martha afterwards the Land is low again till you come towards the Coast of Caraccus which is a high Coast and bold shore The Land about Surinam on the same Coast is low and good anchoring and that over on the Coast of Guinea is such also And such too is the Bay of Panama where the Pilot-book orders the Pilot always to sound and not to come within such a depth be it by night or day In the same Seas from the high Land of Guatimala in Mexico to California there is mostly low Land and good anchoring In the Main of Asia the Coast of China the Bays of Siam and Bengal and all the Coast of Coromandel and the Coast about Malacca and against it the Island Sumatra on that side are mostly low anchoring shores But on the West side of Sumatra the shore is high and bold so most of the Islands lying to the Eastward of Sumatra as the Islands Borneo Celebes Gilolo and abundance of Island of less note lying scattering up and down those Seas are low Land and have good anchoring about them with many shoals scattered to and fro among them but the Islands lying against the East Indian Ocean especially the West sides of them are high Land and steep particularly the West parts not only of Sumatra but also of Java Timor c. Particulars are endless but in general 't is seldom but high Shores and deep Waters and on the other side low Land and shallow Seas are found together But to return from this digression to speak of the rest of these Islands Monmouth and Grafton Isles are very hilly with many of those steep inhabited Precipices on them that I shall describe particularly The two small Islands are flat and even only the Bashee Island hath one steep scraggy Hill but Goat-Island is all flat and very even The mold of these Islands in the Valleys is blackish in some places but in most red The Hills are very rocky The Valleys are well watered with Brooks of fresh water which run into the Sea in many different places The Soil is indifferent fruitful especially in the Valleys producing pretty great plenty of Trees tho not very big and thick Grass The sides of the Mountains have also short Grass and some of the Mountains have Mines within them for the Natives told us that the yellow Metal they shew'd us as I shall speak more particularly came from these Mountains for when they held it up they would point towards them The fruit of the Islands are a few Plantains Bonanoes Pine-apples Pumkins Sugar-canes c. and there might be more if the Natives would for the ground seems fertile enough Here are great plenty of Potatoes and Yames which is the common food for the Natives for bread kind for those few Plantains they have are only used as Fruit. They have some Cotton growing here of the small plants Here are plenty of Goats and abundance of Hogs but few Fowls either wild or tame For this I have always observed in my Travels both in the East and West Indies that in those places where there is plenty of Grain that is of Rice in the one and Maiz in the other there are also found great abundance of Fowls but on the contrary few Fowls in those Countries where the Inhabitants feed on Fruits and Roots only The few wild Fowls that are here are Parakites and some other small Birds Their tame Fowl are only a few Cocks and Hens Monmouth and Grafton Islands are very thick inhabited and Bashee Island hath one Town on it The Natives of these Islands are short squat people they are generally round visaged with low Foreheads and thick Eye-brows their Eyes of a hazel colour and small yet bigger than the Chinese short low Noses and their Lips and Mouths middle proportioned Their Teeth are white their Hair is black and thick and lank which they wear but short it will just cover their Ears and so it is cut round very even Their Skins are of a very dark copper colour They wear no Hat Cap nor Turbat nor any thing to keep off the Sun The men for the biggest part have only a small clout to cover their Nakedness some of them have Jackets made of Plantain leaves which were as rough as any Bears skin I never saw such rugged things The Women have a short Petticoat made of Cotton which comes a little below their Knees It is a thick sort of stubborn cloath which they make themselves of their Cotton Both Men and Women do wear large Ear-rings made of that yellow Metal before mention'd Whether it were Gold or no I cannot positively say I took it to be so it was heavy and of the colour of our paler Gold I would fain have brought away some to have satisfied my curiosity but I had nothing wherewith to buy any Captain Read bought 2 of these Rings with some Iron of which the people are very greedy and he would have bought more thinking he was come to a very fair Market but that the paleness of the Metal made him and his Crew distrust its being right Gold For my part I should have ventur'd on the purchase of some but having no property in
side of which are 4 small Islands close by it which are very well stored with Cloves The two chiefest are Ternate and Tidore and as the Isle of Ceylon is reckoned the only place for Cinnamon and that of Banda for Nutmegs so these are thought by some to be the only Clove Islands in the World but this is a great error as I have already shewn At the South end of the Island Celebes there is a Sea or Gulph of about 7 or 8 leagues wide and 40 or 50 long which runs up the Countrey almost directly to the North and this Gulph hath several small Islands along the middle of it On the West side of the Island almost at the South end of it the Town of Macasser is seated A Town of great Strength and Trade belonging to the Dutch There are great Inlets and Lakes on the East side of the Island as also abundance of small Islands and sholes lying scattered about it We saw a high peeked Hill at the N. end but the Land on the East side is low all along for we cruized almost the length of it The mold on this side is black and deep and extraordinary fat and rich and full of Trees and there are many Brooks of Water run out into the Sea Indeed all this East side of the Island seems to be but one large Grove of extraordinary great high Trees Having with much ado got on this East side coasting along to the Southward and yet having but little Wind and even that little against us at S. S. W. and sometimes Calm we were a long time going about the Island The 22d day we were in Lat. 1 d. 20 m. South and being about 3 leagues from the Island standing to the Southward with a very gentle Land wind about 2 or 3 a clock in the morning we heard a clashing in the Water like Boats rowing and fearing some sudden attack we got up all our Arms and stood ready to defend our selves As soon as it was day we saw a great Proe built like the Mindanayan Proe's with about 60 men in her and 6 smaller Proe's They lay still about a mile to Windward of us to view us and probably design'd to make a prey of us when they first came out but they were now afraid to venture on us At last we shewed them Dutch Colours thinking thereby to allure them to come to us for we could not go to them but they presently rowed in toward the Island and went into a large opening and we saw them no more nor did we ever see any other Boats or Men but only one fishing Canoa while we were about this Island neither did we see any House on all the Coast. About 5 or 6 leagues to the South of this place there is a great Range of both large and small Islands and many shoals also that are not laid down in our Drafts which made it extreamly troublesom for us to get through But we past between them all and the Island Celebes and anchored against a sandy Bay in 8 fathom sandy ground about half a mile from the main Island being then in lat 1 d. 50 m. South Here we stayed several days and sent out our Canoas a striking of Turtle every day for here is great plenty of them but they were very shy as they were generally where-ever we found them in the East India Seas I know not the reason of it unless the Natives go very much a striking here for even in the West Indies they are shy in places that are much disturbed and yet on New Holland we found them shy as I shall relate though the Natives there do not molest them On the sholes without us we went and gathered Shell-fish at low water There were a monstrous sort of Cockles the Meat of one of them would suffice 7 or 8 Men. It was very good wholsom Meat We did also beat about in the Woods on the Island but found no game One of our Men who was always troubled with sore Legs found a certain Vine that supported it self by climbing about other Trees The leaves reach'd 6 or 7 feet high but the strings or branches 11 or 12. It had a very green leaf pretty broad and roundish and of a thick substance These leaves pounded small and boiled with Hogs Lard make an excellent Salve Our Men knowing the vertues of it stockt themselves here there was scarce a Man in the Ship but got a pound or two of it especially such as were troubled with old Ulcers who found great benefit by it This Man that discovered these leaves here had his first knowledge of them in the Isthmus of Darien he having had this Receipt from one of the Indians there and he had been ashore in divers places since purposely to seek these leaves but did never find any but here Among the many vast Trees hereabouts there was one exceeded all the rest This Captain Read caused to be cut down in order to make a Canoa having lost our Boats all but one small one in the late Storms so 6 lusty Men who had been Logwood cutters in the Bays of Campeachy and Honduras as Captain Read himself and many more of us had and so were very expert at this work undertook to fell it taking their turns 3 always cutting together and they were one whole day and half the next before they got it down This Tree though it grew in a Wood was yet 18 foot in circumference and 44 foot of clean body without knot or branch and even there it had no more than one or two branches and then ran clean again 10 foot higher there it spread it self into many great limbs and branches like an Oak very green and flourishing yet it was perisht at the heart which marr'd it for the service intended So leaving it and having no more business here we weighed and went from hence the next day it being the 29th day of November While we lay here we had some Tornadoes one or two every day and pretty fresh Land Winds which were at West The Sea breezes were small and uncertain sometimes out of the N. E. and so veering about to the East and South East We had the Wind at North East when we weighed and we steered off S. S. W. In the afternoon we saw a shole a head of us and altered our course to the S. S. E. In the evening at 4 a clock we were close by another great shole therefore we tackt and stood in for the Island Celebes again for fear of running on some of the sholes in the night By day a Man might avoid them well enough for they had all Beacons on them like Huts built on tall Posts above high-water mark probably set up by the Natives of the Island Celebes or those of some other neighbouring Islands and I never saw any such elsewhere In the night we had a violent Tornado out of the S. W. which lasted about an hour The 30th day
we had a fresh Land Wind and steered away South passing between the 2 Shoals which we saw the day before These Shoals lye in lat 3 d. South and about 10 leagues from the Island Celebes Being past them the Wind died away and we lay decalmed till the afternoon Then we had a hard Tornado out of the South West and towards the evening we saw two or three Spouts the first I had seen since I came into the East Indies in the West Indies I had often met with them A Spout is a small ragged piece or part of a Cloud hanging down about a yard seemingly from the blackest part thereof Commonly it hangs down sloping from thence or sometimes appearing with a small bending or elbow in the middle I never saw any hang perpendicularly down It is small at the lower end seeming no bigger than ones Arm but 't is fuller towards the Cloud from whence it proceeds When the surface of the Sea begins to work you shall see the Water for about 100 paces in circumference foam and move gently round till the whirling motion increases and then it flies upward in a pillar about 100 paces in compass at the bottom but lessening gradually upwards to the smallness of the Spout it self there where it reacheth the lower end of the Spout through which the rising Sea-water seems to be conveyed into the Clouds This visibly appears by the Clouds increasing in bulk and blackness Then you shall presently see the Cloud drive along although before it seemed to be without any motion the Spout also keeping the same course with the Cloud and still sucking up the Water as it goes along and they make a Wind as they go Thus it continues for the space of half an hour more or less until the sucking is spent and then breaking off all the Water which was below the Spout or pendulous piece of Cloud falls down again into the Sea making a great noise with its fall and clashing motion in the Sea It is very dangerous for a Ship to be under a Spout when it breaks therefore we always endeavoured to shun it by keeping at a distance if possibly we can But for want of Wind to carry us away we are often in great fear and danger for it is usually calm when Spouts are at work except only just where they are Therefore men at Sea when they see a Spout coming and know not how to avoid it do sometimes fire shot out of their great Guns into it to give it air or vent that so it may break but I did never hear that it proved to be of any benefit And now being on this subject I think it not amiss to give you an account of an accident that happened to a Ship once on the Coast of Guinea some time in or about the year 1674. One Captain Records of London bound for the Coast of Guinea in a Ship of 300 Tuns and 16 Guns called the Blessing when he came into the lat 7 or 8 degrees North he saw several Spouts one of which came directly towards the Ship and he having no Wind to get out of the way of the Spout made ready to receive it by furling his sails It came on very swift and broke a little before it reached the Ship making a great noise and raising the Sea round it as if a great house or some such thing had been cast into the Sea The fury of the Wind still lasted and took the Ship on the Starboard bow with such violence that it snapt off the Boltsprit and Fore-mast both at once and blew the Ship all along ready to over-set it but the Ship did presently right again and the Wind whirling round took the Ship a second time with the like fury as before but on the contrary side and was again like to overset her the other way The Mizen-mast felt the fury of this second blast and was snapt short off as the Fore-mast and Bolt-sprit had been before The Main-mast and Main-top-mast received no damage for the fury of the Wind which was presently over did not reach them Three men were in the Fore-top when the Fore-mast broke and one on the Boltsprit and fell with them into the Sea but all of them were saved I had this relation from Mr. John Canby who was then Quarter-master and Steward of her one Ahraham Wise was chief Mate and Leonard Jefferies second Mate We are usually very much afraid of them yet this was the only damage that ever I heard done by them They seem terrible enough the rather because they come upon you while you lie becalm'd like a Log in the Sea and cannot get out of their way but though I have seen and been beset by them often yet the fright was always the greatest of the harm December the 1st we had a gentle gale at E. S. E. we steered South and at noon I was by Observation in lat 3 d. 34 m. South Then we saw the Island Bouton bearing South West and about 10 leagues distant We had very uncertain and unconstant Winds The Tornadoes came out of the S. W. which was against us and what other Winds we had were so saint that they did us little kinndess but we took the advantage of the smallest gale and got a little way every day The 4th day at noon I was by Observation in Lat. 4 d. 30 m. South The 5th day we got close by the N. W. end of the Island Bouton and in the evening it being fair weather we hoised out our Canoa and sent the Moskito men of whom we had 2 or 3 to strike Turtle for here are plenty of them but they being shy we chose to strike them in the night which is customary in the West Indies also For every time they come up to breathe which is once in 8 or 10 minutes they blow so hard that one may hear them at 30 or 40 yards distance by which means the Striker knows where they are and may more easily approach them than in the day for the Turtle sees bettter than he hears but on the contrary the Manatee's hearing is quickest In the morning they returned with a very large Turtle which they took near the shore and withal an Indian of the Island came aboard with them He spake the Malayan Language by which we did understand him He told us that 2 leagues farther to the Southward of us there was a good Harbour in which we might Anchor So having a fair Wind we got thither by noon This Harbour is in Lat. 4 d. 54 m. South lying on the East side of the Island Bouton Which Island lyes near the S. E. end of the Island Celebes distant from it about 3 or 4 leagues It is of a long form stretching S. W. and N. E. about 25 leagues long and 10 broad It is pretty high Land and appears pretty even and flat and very woody There is a large Town within a league of the anchoring
detestation on actions which before I disliked but now I trembled at the remembrance of I had long before this repented me of that rovingcourse of life but never with such concern as now I did also call to mind the many miraculous acts of Gods Providence towards me in the whole course of my life of which kind I believe few men have met with the like For all these I returned thanks in a peculiar manner and this once more desired Gods assistance and composed my mind as well as I could in the hopes of it and as the event shew'd I was not disappointed of my hopes Submitting our selves therefore to Gods good providence and taking all the care we could to preserve our lives Mr. Hall and I took turns to steer and the rest took turns to heave out the Water and thus we provided to spend the most doleful night I ever was in About 10 a clock it began to Thunder Lighten and Rain but the Rain was very welcom to us having drank up all the Water we brought from the Island The Wind at first blew harder than before but within half an hour it abated and became more moderate and the Sea also asswaged of its fury and then by a lighted Match of which we kept a piece burning on purpose we looked on our Compass to see how we steered and found our course to be still East We had no occasion to look on the Compass before for we steered right before the Wind which if it had shifted we had been obliged to have altered our couse accordingly But now it being abated we found our Vessel lively enough with that small sail which was then aboard to hale to our former course S. S. E. which accordingly we did being now in hopes again to get to the Island Sumatra But about 2 a clock in the morning of the 19th day we had another gust of Wind with much Thunder Lightening and Rain which lasted till day and obliged us to put before the Wind again steering thus for several hours It was very dark and the hard Rain soaked us so throughly that we had not one dry thread about us The Rain chill'd us extreamly for any fresh water is much colder than that of the Sea For even in the coldest Climates the Sea is warm and in the hottest Climates the Rain is cold and unwholesome for mans body In this wet starveling plight we spent the tedious night Never did poor Mariners on a Lee-shore more earnestly long for the dawning light than we did now At length the day appeared but with such dark black Clouds near the Horizon that the first glimpse of the Dawn appeared 30 or 40 degrees high which was dreadful enough for it is a common saying among Sea-men and true as I have experienced that a high dawn will have high winds and a low dawn small winds We continued our course still East before Wind and Sea till about 8 a clock in the morning of this 19th day and then one of our Malayan friends cryed out Pulo Way Mr. Hall and Ambrose and I thought the fellow had said Pull away an expression usual among English Sea-men when they are Rowing And we wonder'd what he meant by it till we saw him point to his consorts and then we looking that way saw Land appearing like an Island and all our Malayans said it was an Island at the N. W. end of Sumatra called Way for Pulo Way is the Island Way We who were dropping with wet cold and hungry were all overjoyed at the sight of the Land and presently marked its bearing It bore South and the Wind was still at West a strong gale but the Sea did not run so high as in the night Therefore we trimmed our small Sail no bigger than an Apron and steered with it Now our Outlagers did us a great kindness again for although we had but a small sail yet the Wind was strong and prest down our Vessels side very much but being supported by the Outlagers we could brook it well enough which otherwise we could not have done About noon we saw more Land beneath the supposed Pulo Way and steering towards it before night we saw all the Coast of Sumatra and found the errours of our Achinese for the high Land that we first saw which then appeared like an Island was not Pulo Way but a great high Mountain on the Island Sumatra called by the English the Golden Mountain Our Wind continued till about 7 a clock at night then it abated and at 10 a clock it died away and then we stuck to our Oars again though all of us quite tired with our former fatigues and hardships The next morning being the 20th day we saw all the low Land plain and judged our selves not above 8 leagues off About 8 a clock in the morning we had the Wind again at West a fresh gale and steering in still for the Shore at 5 a clock in the afternoon we run to the mouth of a River on the Island Sumatra called Passange Jonca It is 34 leagues to the Eastward of Achin and 6 leagues to the West of Diamond Point which makes with 3 Angles of a Rhombus and is low Land Our Malayans were very well acquainted here and carried us to a small fishing Village within a mile of the Rivers mouth called also by the name of the River Passange Jonca The hardships of this Voyage with the scorching heat of the Sun at our first setting out and the cold Rain and our continuing wet for the last two days cast us all into Fevers so that now we were not able to help each other nor so much as to get our Canoa up to the Village but our Malayans got some of the Townsmen to bring her up The news of our arrival being noised abroad one of the Oramkai's or Noblemen of the Island came in the night to see us We were then lying in a small Hut at the end of the Town and it being late this Lord only viewed us and having spoken with our Malayans went away again but he returned to us again the next day and provided a large house for us to live in till we should be recovered of our sickness ordering the Towns-people to let us want for nothing The Achinese Malayans that came with us told them all the circumstances of our Voyage how they were taken by our Ship and where and how we that came with them were Prisoners aboard the Ship and had been set ashore together at Nicobar as they were It was for this reason probably that the Gentlemen of Sumatra were thus extraordinary kind to us to provide every thing that we had need of nay they would force us to accept of Presents from them that we knew not what to do with as young Buffaloes Goats c. for these we would turn loose at night after the Gentlemen that gave them to us were gone for we were prompted by our Achinese Consorts to
it was to bring us into a true Trade wind yet we could not get thither under a fortnight and if we should meet calms as we might probably expect it might be much longer Besides we should lose our passage about the Cape till October or November this being about the latter end of March for after the 10th of May 't is not usual to beat about the Cape to come home All circumstances therefore being weighed and considered we at last unanimously agreed to prosecute our Voyage towards the Cape and with patience wait for a shift of Wind. But Captain Heath having thus far sounded the inclination of his weak men told them that it was not enough that they all consented to beat for the Cape for our desires were not sufficient to bring us thither but that there would need a more than ordinary labour and management from those that were able And withal for their encouragement he promised a months pay Gratis to every man that would engage to assist on all occasions and be ready upon call whether it were his turn to watch or not and this money he promised to pay at the Cape This offer was first imbraced by some of the Officers and then as many of the men as found themselves in a capacity listed themselves in a Roll to serve theit Commander This was wisely contrived of the Captain for he could not have compell'd them in their weak condition neither would fair words alone without some hopes of a reward have engag d them to so much extraordinary work for the Ship Sail and Rigging were much out of repair For my part I was too weak to enter my self in that list for else our common safety which I plainly saw lay at stake would have prompted me to do more than any such reward would do In a short time after this it pleased God to favour us with a fine Wind which being improved to the best advantage by the incessant labour of these new listed men brought us in a short time to the Cape The night before we entered the Harbour which was about the beginning of April being near the land we fired a Gun every hour to give notice that we were in distress The next day a Dutch Captain came aboard in his Boat who seeing us so weak as not to be able to trim our Sails to turn into the Harbour though we did tollerably well at Sea before the Wind and being requested by our Captain to assist him sent ashore for a hundred lusty men who immediately came aboard and brought our Ship in to an anchor They also unbent our Sails and did every thing for us that they were required to do for which Captain Heath gratified them to the full These men had better stomachs than we and eat freely of such food as the Ship afforded and they having the freedom of our Ship to go to and fro between Decks made prize of what they could lay their hands on especially salt Beef which our men for want of stomachs in the Voyage had hung up 6 8 or 10 pieces in a place This was conveyed away before we knew it or thought of it besides in the night there was a Bale of Muzlins broke open and a great deal conveyed away but whether the Muslins were stoln by our own men or the Dutch I cannot say for we had some very dexterous Thieves in our Ship Being thus got safe to an anchor the sick were presently sent ashore to quarters provided for them and those that were able remained aboard and had good fat Mutton or fresh Beef sent aboard every day I went ashore also with my painted Prince where I remained with him till the time of sailing again which was about 6 weeks In which time I took the opportunity to inform my self of what I could concerning this Country which I shall in this next place give you a brief account of and so make what haste I can home The Cape of Good Hope is the utmost bounds of the continent of Africa towards the South lying in 34 d. 30 m S. lat in a very temperate Climate I look upon this latitude to be one of the mildest and sweetest for its temperature of any whatsoever and I cannot here but take notice of a common prejudice our European Seamen have as to this Country that they look upon it as much colder than places in the same lat to the North of the the Line I am not of their opinion as to that and their thinking so I believe may easily be accounted for from hence that whatever way they come to the Cape whether going to the East Indies or returning back they pass thro a hot Climate and coming to it thus out of an extremity of heat 't is no wonder if it appear the colder to them Some impute the coldness of the South Wind here to its blowing off from Sea On the contrary I. have always observ d the Sea Winds to be warmer than Land Winds unless it be when a bloom we call it or hot b'ast blow from thence Such an one we felt in this very Voyage as we went from Cape Verd Islands towards the South Seas which I forgot to mention in its proper place Chap. 4th For one afternoon about the 19th of Jan. 1683 in the lat of 37 South we felt a brisk gale coming from off the Coast of America but so violently hot that we thought it came from some burning Mountain on the shore and was like the heat from the mouth of an Oven Just such another gleam I felt one afternoon also as I lay at anchor at the Groin in July 1694. it came with a Southerly Wind both these were followed by a Thunder-shower These were the only great blooms I ever met with in my Travels But setting these aside which are exceptions I have made it my general observation that the Sea Winds are a great deal warmer than those which blow from Land unless where the Wind blows from the Poles which I take to be the true cause of the coldness of the South Wind at the Cape for it is cold at Sea also And as for the coldness of Land-Winds as the South-West parts of Europe are very sensible of it from the Northern and Eastern Winds so on the opposite Coast of Virginia they are as much pinch d with the North-West Winds blowing excessively cold from over the Continent though its lat be not much greater than this of the Cape But to proceeed This large Promontory consists of high and very remarkable Land and off at Sea it affords a very pleasant and agreeable prospect And without doubt the prospect of it was very agreeable to those Portuguese who first found out this way by Sea to the East-Indies when after coasting along the vast Continent of Africk towards the South Pole they had the comfort of seeing the Land and their course end in this promontory which therefore they called the Cape de Bon
America on the other If I be questioned for taking this Liberty I should think it enough to say that I wanted a general Name for this whole Ocean and I could not find one more proper And yet even as to the Reason of the thing if the Discovery of a Sea to the South of the Isthmus of Darien or the Mexican Coast were ground sufficient for the extending the Name of South Sea to all that largest Ocean of the World tho it lies West rather of the whole Continent of America much more may I be allowed a less considerable enlargement of the name of Atlantick Sea which others have long since extended to so great a part of this Ocean from its Original narrow Confines the Neighbourhood of Mount Atlas and the Coasts of Mauritania I know that so much of this Ocean as lies South of the R. Niger went usually by the name of the Aethiopick Sea yet I can't learn a sufficient Reason for it for tho 't is true that the Antients call'd all the South parts of Africk to each Sea Aethiopia yet even upon this bottom the name of Aethiopick Sea should have been left common to the Oceans on each side the Cape of Good Hope But if the Name must be appropriated why to this on the West of Africa why not rather to that on its E. Coast which lies nearer the Inward or more proper Aethiopia now the Abissine Empire and consequently might better be call'd the Aethiopick Sea Accordingly I have ventured to call it so Vol. I. page 289 making it there the same as the Indian which I also make to be all the Ocean from the East Coast of Africa to the remotest of the E. India Islands New Holland and New Guinea tho this Name also of Indian Sea has been understood usually of narrower bounds But be that as it will I was for using comprehensive Names and therefore these three Names of Atlantick Indian and South Seas or Oceans serve me for the whole Ambit of the Torrid Zone and what else I have occasion to speak of To these three Parts is added a General Index of both Volumes The first Volume should not have been publish'd without one but that 't was reserved to be annex'd to this that the Reader might not have the trouble of turning over two Alphabets Thus what I designed as an Appendix to the former Volume is grown to be its self a Volume answerable to the other And I am sensible there is one part of the intended Appendix yet behind viz. The Description of the South Sea Coasts of America from the Spanish Pilot-Books c. I confess I had thoughts of crowding it into this Volume but besides the dryness and fatigue of such a Work and the small leisure I had for it I was quite discouraged from attempting it when upon nearer View of the Matter I found in those Descriptions and Charts a repugnance with each other in many particulars and some things which from my own experience I knew to be erroneous Indeed as they are they may be very useful to Sailors in those Parts being generally right enough in the Main but I was loth to undertake a work much of which must have consisted in correcting Mistakes and yet have left unavoidably many more to be rectified Others may have Time and Helps for this affair and future Discoveries may give greater Light to direct them To me it shall suffice that bating this one particular I have here endeavoured to perform what I had made the Publick expect from me The CONTENTS PART I. The Supplement of the Voyage round the World CHap. 1. The Authors Voyage from Achin to Malacca and Tonquin 2. The Natural State of Tonquin 3. Of the Natives their Customs Religion Trade c. 4. Of the Government Kings Soldiery and Mandarins 5. Voyage to Tenan The A.'s journey by land to Cachao and Occurrences 6. His return from Tonquin witâ—… some particulars of Cambodia and Bancouli and Arrival at Malacca and Achin 7. Achin describ'd its Natural and Political Sate Customs Trade Civil War c. 8. His Voyage to Malacca again Malacca described 9. His Return to Achin Voyage to Fort St George and thence to Bencouli Bencouli described PAAT II. The Campeachy Voyages Chap. 1. The A.'s 1st Voyage to Campeachy and Return Jucatan ' Alcranes and I. of Pines describ'd 2. His 2d Voyage The E. Coast of Campeachy describ'd its Vegetables Weather Animals c. 3. Logwood-Cutting Beef-Hunting and Occurrences 4. The W. Coast of Campeachy describ'd its Mountain-Cow Indians c. 5. The Coast further W. and products of Campeachy and New Spain described The A.'s return to England PART III. A Discourse of Winds Storms Seasons Tides and Currents in the Torrid Zone Chap. 1. Of the True or General Trade Wind at Sea Crossing the Line c. 2. Of the Coasting and constant Trade Winds 3. Of the shifting Trade-Winds and Monsoons 4. Of the Ordinary Sea and Land Breezes 5. Of peculiar Breezes and Winds of particular effects Summasenta Winds Cartagena Breezes Popogaios Tereno's and Harmatans 6. Of storms Norths Souths Hurricane's Tuffoons stormy Monsoons and Elephanta's 7. Of the Seasons of the Year Weather Rains and Tornadoes 8. Of Tides and Currents Natal described its Product Negroes c. A Map of the Streights of MALACCA A Map of the Streights of MALACCA Mr Dampier's Voyages VOL. II. PART I. His Voyage from Achin in Sumatra to Tonquin and other places in the East-Indies CHAP. I. The Connexion of this discourse with the Voyage round the World The Authors departure from Achin in the Isle of Sumatra with Captain Weldon Their Course along the Streights of Malacca Pulo Nuttee and other Islands The R. and Kingdom of Jihore Pulo Oro and Pulo Timaon Green Turtle there Pulo Condore Sholes of Pracel River of Cambodia Coast of Champa Pulo Canton Cochinchinese Pulo Champello R. and City of Quinam Oyl of Porpusses and Turtle Shipwrackt men detained usually at Cochinchina and Pegu. Aguala wood from the Bay of Siam Bay of Tonquin I. of Aynam and other Islands Rokbo one mouth of the chief R. of Tonquin Fishers I. River of Domea the other Mouth It s Bar and Entrance Mountain Elephant Pearl-Islands Pilots of Batsha They go up the River of Domea Domea and its Gardens and Dutch there They leave their Ships at Anchor above it where the Natives build a Town They go up to the chief City in the Country Boats The River and the Country about it Leprous Beggars Hean a Town of note Chinese there The Governor Shipping and Tide They arrive at Cachao the Metropolis of Tonquin THe Reader will find upon perusing my Voyage round the World that I then omitted to speak particularly of the excursions I made to Tonquin Malacca Fort St. George and Bencouli from Achin in the Isle of Sumatra together with the description I intended to give of those parts I do but just mention them there but shall now proceed to a
three Captains and some others among whom I got leave to go also Captain Weldon had recommended me to the chief of the Factory while he was aboard us and my going up now to the City was in order to have his assistance in the Voyage to Cochinchina Champa or Cambodia which Captain Weldon had contrived for me nor was it his fault that it came to nothing We went from our Ships in the Country Boats we had hired with the tide of flood and anchored in the ebb for the tide runs strong for 30 or 40 miles beyond the place where we left our Ships Our men contented themselves with looking after their goods the Tonquinese being very light finger'd and left the management of the Boats entirely to the Boats crew Their Boats have but one Mast and when the wind is against them they take it down and ply their Oars As we advanced thus up the River sometimes rowing sometimes sailing we had a delightful prospect over a large level fruitful Country It was generally either Pasture or Rice-fields and void of Trees except only about the Villages which stood thick and appeared mighty pleasant at a distance There are many of these Villages stand close to the banks of the Rivers incompassed with Trees on the back side only but open to the River When we came near any of these Villages we were commonly encountered with Beggars who came off to us in little Boats made of twigs and plaistered over both inside and outside with Clay but very leaky These were a poor Leprous people who for that reason are compell'd by the rest to live by themselves and are permitted to beg publickly As soon as they spied us they set up a loud doleful cry and as we past by them we threw them out some Rice which they received with great appearance of joy In about 4 days time we get to Hean a Town on the East side of the River which is here entire for a little before we came to Hean we met the main stream where it parts into the Channels that of Domea which we came up and the other of Rokbo making so a large and triangular Island between them and the Sea the mouths of those Channels being as I have said 20 leagues asunder Hean is about 60 miles from the place where we left our Ships and about 80 from the Sea that way but along the River or Channel Rokbo where the Land trends more to the Southward it seems to be farther distant from the Sea 'T is a considerable Town of about 2000 Houses but the Inhabitants are most poor people and Souldiers who keep a Garrison there tho it has neither Walls Fort nor great Guns Here is one street belonging to the Chinese Merchants For some years ago a great many lived at Cachao till they grew so numerous that the Natives themselves were even swallowed up by them The King taking notice of it ordered them to remove from thence allowing them to live any where but in the City But the major part of them presently forsook the Country as not finding it convenient for them to live any where but at Cachao because that is the only place of Trade in the Country and Trade is the Life of a Chinese However some of them were content to settle at Hean where they have remained ever since And these Merchants notwithstanding the prohibition go often to Cachao to buy and sell goods but are not suffer'd to make it their constant residence There were two of these China Merchants who traded yearly to Japan with raw and wrought Silks bringing back Money chiefly These all of them wore long Hair braided behind as their own Country fashion was before the Tartarian Conquest The French too have their Factory here not being allowed to fix at Cachao and their Bishops Palace is the fairest building in Hean but of this I shall have occasion to speak more hereafter The Governor of the adjacent Province lives here He is one of the principal Mandarins of the Nation and he has always a great many Souldiers in the Town and inferiour Officers whom he employs at his pleasure on any occasion Besides here are also some of the Kings River Frigots which I shall hereafter describe ready to be sent on any expedition and tho no Europeans come up so far as this with their Ships that I could learn yet the Siamites and Chinese bring their Ships up the River Rokbo quite to Hean and lie at anchor before it and we found there several Chinese Jonks They ride afloat in the middle of the River for the water does not rise and fall much at this place Neither is the flood discerned by the turning of the stream for that always runs down tho not so swift near full Sea as at other times for the tide pressing against the stream tho faintly so far up the River has not power to turn it but only slackens its course and makes the water rise a little The Governor or his Deputy gives his Chop or Pass to all Vessels that go up or down not so much as a Boat being suffered to proceed without it For which reason we also made a stop yet we stayed here but a little while and therefore I did not now go ashore but had a while after this a better opportunity of seeing Hean From Hean we went up to Cachao in our Boats being about 2 days more on our Voyage for we had no tide to help us We landed at the English Factory and I stayed there 7 or 8 days before I went down to our Ships again in one of the Country Boats We had good weather coming up but it rain'd all the time of this my first stay at Cachao and we had much wet weather after this But having got thus far I shall now proceed to give some general account of this Country from my own observations and the experience of Merchants and others worthy of credit who have had their Residence there and some of them a great may years CHAP. II. Tonquin its Situation Soil Waters and Provinces It s natural Produce Roots Herbs Fruits and Trees The Cam-chain and Cam-quit Oranges Their Limes c. Their Betle and Lichea Fruit. The Pone tree Lack trees Mulberry trees and Rice Their land Animals Fowl tame and wild Nets for wild Ducks Locusts Fish Balachaun Nuke mum Pickle Soy and manner of Fishing The Market Provisions Food and Cookery Their Chau or Tea The Temperature of their Air and Weather throughout the Year Of the great Heats near the Tropicks Of the yearly Land Floods here and elsewhere in the Torrid Zone and of the overflowing of the Nile in Egypt Of Storms called Tuffoons and of the influence the Rains have on the Harvest at Tonquin and elsewhere in the Torrid Zone THE Kingdom of Tonquin is bounded to the North and North East with China to the West with the Kingdom of Laos to the S and E. with Cochinchina and the Sea
which washes a part of this Kingdom As to the particular bounds or extent of it I cannot be a competent judge coming to it by Sea and going up directly to Cachao but it is reasonable to believe it to be a pretty large Kingdom by the many great Provinces which are said to be contained in it That part of the Kingdom that borders on the Sea is all very low Land neither is there any Hill to be seen but the Elephant Mountain and a Ridge of a much less heighth continued from thence to the mouth of the River of Domea The Land for about 60 miles up in the Country is still very low even and plain nor is it much higher for about 40 miles farther quite to Cachao and beyond it being without any sensible Hill tho generally of a tolerable good heighth and with some gentle risings here and there that make it a fine pleasant Champian and the further side of this also is more level than the Champian Country it self about Hean or Cachao Farther still to the North beyond all this I have been inform'd that there is a chain of high Mountains running cross the Country from East to West but I could get no intimation of what is beyond them The Soil of this Country is generally very rich That very low Land I speak of towards the Sea is most black Earth and the mould pretty deep In some places there 's very strong Clay The Champian Land is generally yellowish or greyish earth of a looser and more friable substance then the former yet in some places it has a touch of the Clay too In the plain Country near the Mountains last mentioned there are said to be some high steep rocks of Marble scattered up and down at unequal distances which standing in that large plain Savannah appear like so many great Towers or Castles and they are the more visible because the Land about them is not burdened with Wood as in some places in its neighbourhood I have said somewhat already of the great River and its 2 branches Rokbo and Domea wherewith this Country is chiefly water'd tho it is not distitute of many other pleasant streams that are lost in these in their course towards the Sea and probably there are many others that run immediately into the Sea through their own channels tho not so navigable as the other The Country in general is very well watered and by means of the great Navigable River and its Branches it has the opportunity of Foreign Trade This rises about the Mountains in the North or from beyond them whence running Southerly toward the Sea it passes thro the before-mention'd plain of Marble Rocks and by that time it comes to Cachao which is about 40 or 50 miles to the South of the Mountains 't is about as broad as the Thames at Lambeth vet so shallow in the dry Season as that it may be forded on Horseback At Hean 20 miles lower us rather broader than the Thames at Gravesend and so below Hean to the place where it divides it self The Kingdom of Tonquin is said to be divided into 8 large Provinces viz. the East and West Provinces the North and South Provinces and the Province of Cachao in the middle between those 4 which 5 I take to be the principal Provinces making the heart of the Country The other 3 which are Tenan Tenehoa and Ngeam lie more upon the Borders The Province of Tenan is the most Easterly having China on the S. E. the Island Aynam and the Sea on the S. and S. W. and the East Province on the N. W. This is but a small Province its chiefest product is Rice The East Province stretches away from Tenan to the North Province having also China on its East side part of the South Province and the Province of Cachao on the West and the Sea on the South This is a very large Province 't is chiefly low Land and much of it Islands especially the S. E. part of it bordering on the Sea towards Tenan and here the Sea makes the Cod of a Bay It has abundance of Fishermen inhabiting near the Sea but its chief produce is Rice here is also good pasturage and much Cattle c. Hean is the chief place of this Pro vince and the Seat of the Mandarin its Governor The S. Province is the triangular Island made by Sea the River of Domea is on it's E. side dividing it from the East Province and Rokbo on the West dividing it from Tenan having the Sea to its South This Province is very low plain even Land producing Rice in great abundance here are large pastures and abundance of Fishermen near the Sea Tenehoa to the West of Rokbo has the West Province on its North Aynam on its West and the Sea on its South this Province is also low Land chiefly abounds in Rice and Cattle and hath a great Trade in Fishing as all the Sea Coast has in general The Province of Ngeam hath Tenehoa on the East and on the South and West it borders on Cochinchina and has the West Province on its North. This is a pretty large Province abounding with Rice and Cattle and here are always Soldiers kept to guard the Frontiers from the Cochinchineses The West Provinces hath Ngeam on the South the Kingdom of Laos on the West the Province of Cachao on the East and on the North the North Province This is a large Province and good Champion Land rich in Soyl partly woody partly pasture The product of this Province is chiefly in Lack and here are bred a great abundance of Silk worms for making Silk The North Province is a large tract of Land making the North side of this whole Kingdom It hath the Kingdom of Laos on the West and China on the East and North the Kingdom of Bao Oi Baotan on the North West and on the South it ders on 3 of the principal Provinces of Tonquin viz. the West Province that of Cachao and the East Province This North Province as it is large so it has variety of Land and Soyl a great deal of plain Champion Land and many high Mountains which yield Gold c. the wild Elephants of this Country are found most on these Mountains The other parts of this Province produce Lack and Silk c. The Province of Cachao in the heart of the Kingdom lies between the East West North and South Provinces 't is a Champion pleasant Country the Soil is yellow or grey earth and 't is pretty woody with some Savannahs It abounds with the two principal Commodities of their Trade viz. Lack and Silk and has some Rice Nor are any of the Provinces destitute of these Commodities tho in different proportions each according to the respective Soil This Country has of its own growth all necessaries for the Life os Man They have little occasion for eatable Roots having such plenty of Rice yet they have Yams and Potatoes for variety
he had all the ingredients and an engine to mix them I was easily perswaded to try my skill which I had never yet tried not knowing what I might be put to before I got to England and having drank a glass or two of Wine with him I went to work and it succeeded so well that I pleased him extremely and satisfied my own desire of trying the Receipt and the Reader shall have the History of the Operation if he pleases He brought me Sulphur and Salt-Petre and I weighed a portion of each of these and of Coals I gathered up in the hearth and beat to powder While his man mixed these in a little Engine I made a small Sieve of Parchment which I pricked full of holes with a small Iron made hot and this was to corn it I had 2 large Arek Nuts to roul in the Sieve and work it thro the holes to corn it When it was dry we proved it and it answered our expectation The receipt I had out of Captain Sturiney s Magazin of Arts. The being so successful in this put me afterwards on the reâ—…ewing of Powder at Bencouli when I was there Gunner of that Fort. There being then about 30 Barrels damnified which was like mud they took it out of the Cask and put it into earthen Jars that held about 8 Barrels a piece These they call Mortaban Jars from a Town of that name in Pegu whence they are brought and carried all over India In these 't was intended to send the Powder to Fort St. George to be renewed there But I desired the Governour to let me first try my skill on it because we had but little Powder in the Fort and might have wanted before any returns could be expected from thence The Salt-petre was sunk to the bottom of the Jars but I mixt it and beat it altogether and corned it with Sieves which I made of my own old Parchment draughts I made thus 8 Barrels full of very good Powder before I went from thence The French Priest told me in conclusion that the Grandees made all their own Powder and since I have been informed that the Soldiers make Powder as I have already said I spent the remainder of the day in the Palace with the Priest He told me that the Bishop was well otherwise I should haveseen him and that because it was a Fish day I could not expect such entertainment as I might have had on another day yet he ordered a Fowl to be broyled for my dinner and I dined by my self In the evening he sent me out of the Palace desiring to be excused that he could not entertain me all night yet ordered his man to lodge me in a Tonquinese Christian House not far from thence The people were civil but very poor and my Lodging such as I had met with on the Road. I have since been told that the new Christans come to do their devotion in the Pallace at night and for that reason probably I was so soon dismist I was now again pretty well refreshed and might have gone to Cachao City a foot but fearing my strength I chose to go by water Therefore I sent back my Guide yet before he departed back to our Ships he bargained with a Tonquinese Waterman for my passage to Cachao The Tide not serving presently to imbark I walked about the Town and spent the day in viewing it in the evening I embarked and they choose an evening for coolness rowing all night The Boat was about the bigness of a Gravesend Wherry and was used purposely to carry passengers having a small covering over-head to keep them dry when it rained There were 4 or 5 more of these Boats that went up this Tide full of Passengers In our Boat were about 20 Men and Women besides 4 or 6 that rowed us The Women chose their places and sate by themselves and they had much respect shewed them but the men stowed close together without shewing any respect more to one than to another yet all very civil I thrust in among the thickest of them at first but my Flux would not suffer me to rest long in a place About midnight we were set ashore to refresh our selves at a Baiting place where there were a few Houses close by the Rivers side and the people up with Candles lighted Arack and Tea and little Spits of Meat and other Provisions ready drest to receive us For these were all Houses of entertainment and probably got their living by entertaining passengers We stayed here about an hour and then entred again on our Boat and rowed forwards The passengers spent the time in merry discourse or Singing after their way tho to us it seems like crying but I was mute for want of person I could converse with About 8 or 9 a Clock the next day I was set ashore the rest of the passengers remained in the Boat but whither they were bound I know not nor whether the Boat went quite up to Cachao I was now 5 or 6 mile short of the City but in a good path for the Land here was pretty high level and Sandy and the Road plain and dry and I reached Cachao by Noon I presently went to one Mr. Bowyers House who was a free Merchant with whom Captain Weldon lodged and staid with them a few days but so weak with my Flux which daily encreased that I was scarce able to go about and so was forced to learn by others a great measure several particulars relating to this place This my weakness joyned with my disappointment for I found that I was not like to be imployed in any Voyage to the Neighbouring Countries as it had been proposed to me made me very desirous of returning back again as soon as might be and it happened opportunely that Captain Weldon had by this time done his business and was preparing for his departure I went therefore down the River again to our Ships in a Vessel our Merchants had hired to carry their Goods aboard from Cachao Among other freight there were 2 Bells of about 500 weight each which had been cast at Cachao by the Tonquinese for my Lord Falcon the King of Siam's chief Minister of State and for the use of some of the Christian Churches in Siam The person who bespoke them and was to carry them was Captain Brewster who had not very long before come from Siam in a Ship of that Kings and had been cast away on the Coast of Tonquin but had saved most of his Goods With these he traded at Cachao and among other goods he had purchased to return with to Siam were these 2 Bells all which he sent down to be put on board Captain Weldon's Ship But the Bark was no sooner come to Hean in going down the River but the Governor of Heans Officers come on board the Bark and seized the 2 Bells in behalf of the chief of the English Factory who understanding they were designed for the King
whom I came acquainted with some time after this at Fort St. George and I had of him the following account the particulars of which I have also had confirmed by the Seamen who were with them These two Captains with many more English men had been for some time in the service of the King of Siam and each of them commanded a stout Frigot of his mann'd chiefly with English and some Portuguese born at Siam These the King of Siam sent against some Pyrates who made spoyl of his Subjects Trading in these Seas and nested themselves in an Island up the River of Cambodia Captain Howel told me that they found this River very large especially at its mouth that 't is deep and navigable for very great Vessels 60 or 70 Leagues up and that its depth and wideness extended much further up for ought he knew but so far they went up at this time with their Ships The Course of the River is generally from North to South and they found the Land low on each side with many large creeks and branches and in some places considerable Islands They bended their Course up that branch which seem'd most considerable having the Tyde of flood with them and the River commonly so wide as to give them room to turn or make Angles where the bending of the River was such as to receive a contrary East or South East Sea Wind. These reaches or bendings of the River East and West were very rare at least so as to make their Course be against the Sea wind which commonly blew in their Stern and fo fresh that with it they could stem the Tyde of Ebb. But in the night when the Land winds came they anchored and lay still till about 10 or 11 a Clock the next day at which time the Sea-breeze usually sprang up again and enabled them to continue their Course till they came to the Island where the Pirats inhabited They presently began to fire at them and landing their men routed them and burned their Houses and Fortifications and taking many prisoners returned again These Piratical People were by Nation Chinese who when the Tartars conquered their Country fled from thence in their own Ships as choosing rather to live any where free than to submit to the Tartars These it seems in their flight bent their Course towards this Country and finding the River of Cambodia open before them they made bold to enter and settle on the Island before mentioned There they built a Town and fenced it round about with a kind of Wood-pile or Wall of great Timber Trees laid along of the thickness of 3 or 4 of these Trees and of about as many in heighth They were provided with all sorts of Planters instruments and the Land hereabouts was excellent good as our English men told me so that 't is like they might have lived here happily enough had their inclinations led them to a quiet Life but they brought Arms along with them and chose to use them rather than their Instruments of Husbandry and they lived therefore mostly by rapin pillaging their Neighbours who were more addicted to traffick than fighting But the King of Siams Subjects having been long harrassed by them at Sea he first sent some Forces by Land to drive them out of their Fort till not succeeding that way he entirely Routed them by sending these 2 Ships up the River The 2 English Captains having thus effected their business returned out of the River with many Prisoners but the South West Monsoon being already set in they could not presently return to Siam and therefore went to Macao in China as well to wait for the N. East Monsoon as to ingratiate themselves with the Tartars who they thought would be pleased with the Conquest which they had made over these Chinese Pyrates They were well entertained there by the Tartarian Governor and gave him their Prisoners and upon the shifting of the Monsoon they returned to Siam There they were received with great applause Nor was this the first successful expedition the English have made in the K. of Siams service They once saved the Country by suppressing an insurrection made by the Buggasses The Buggasses are a sort of warlike Trading Malayans and mercenary Soldiers of India I know not well whence they come unless from Macasser in the Island Celebes Many of them had been entertained at Siam in the Kings service but at last being disgusted at some ill usuage they stood up in their own defence Some hundreds of them got together all well armed and these struck a dread into the hearts of the Siamites none of whom were able to stand before them till Constant Falcon the chief Minister Commanded the English that were then in the Kings service to march against them which they did with success tho with some considerable loss For these services the King gave every year to each of them a great Silk Coat on which were just 13 Buttons Those of the chief Commanders were of Massy Gold and those of the inferiour Officers were of Silver Plate This Expedition against the Chinese Pirats was about the year 1687 the other broyl with the Buggasses was as I take it some time before But to proceed with our Voyage we still kept our way Southward and in company together till we came about Pulo Condore but then Captain Pool parted from us standing more directly South for the Streights of Sundy and we steer'd more to the Westward to go thro the Streights of Malacca thro which we came before Captain Brewster and another of our Passengers began now to be in fear that the King of Siam would send Ships to lye at the Mouth of the Streights of Malacca and intercept our passage because there was a War broke out between the English East India Company and that Prince This seemed the more likely because the French at this time were imployed in that Kings service by the means of a French Bishop and other Ecclesiasticks who were striving to convert the King and people to Christianity thro the Interest they had got in Constant Falcon. Particularly they were afraid that the King of Siam would send the 2 Ships before mentioned which Captain Williams and Capt Howel had commanded a little before to lye at the west end of the Streights mouth but probably mann'd with French Men and French Commanders to take us Now tho this made but little impression on the minds of our Commanders and Officers yet it so happened that we had such thick dark weather when we came near the first Entrance of the Streights of Malacca which was that we came by and by which we meant to return that we thought it not safe to stand in at night and so lay by till morning The next day we saw a Jonk to the Southward and chased her and having spoke with her we made sail and stood to the Westward to pass the Streights and making the Land we found we were to the
not altogether destitute of small Hills and every where of a moderate heighth and a Champion Country naturally very fit for Cultivation There is one Hill more remarkable than ordinary especially to Seamen The English call it the Golden Mount but whether this name is given it by the Natives or only by the English I know not 'T is near the N. W. end of the Island and Achin stands but 5 or 6 mile from the bottom of it 'T is very large at the foot and runs up smaller towards the head which is raised so high as to be seen at Sea 30 or 40 leagues This was the first Land that we saw coming in our Proe from the Nicobar Islands mentioned in my former Voyage The rest of the Land tho of a good heighth was then undiscerned by us so that this Mountain appeared like an Island in the Sea which was the Reason why our Achin Malayans took it for Pulo Way But that Island tho pretty high Champion Land was invisible when this Golden Mount appeared so plain tho as far distant as that Island Besides what belongs to Achin upon the Continent there are also several Islands under its Jurisdiction most of them uninhabited and these make the Road of Achin Among them is this Pulo Way which is the Easternmost of a Range of Islands that lye off the N. W. end of Sumatra It is also the largest of them and it is inhabited by Malefactors who are banisht thither from Achin This with the other Islands of this Range lye in a semicircular form of about 7 Leagues diameter Pulo Gomez is another large Island about 20 mile West from Pulo Way and about 3 Leagues from the N. W. point of Sumatra Between Pulo Gomez and the Main are 3 or 4 other small Islands yet with Channels of a sufficient breadth between them for Ships to pass through and they have very deep water All Ships bound from Achin to the Westward or coming from thence to Achin go in and out thro one or other of these Channels and because shipping comes hither from the Coast of Surrat one of these Channels which is deeper than the rest is called the Surrat Channel Between Pulo Gomez and Pulo Way in the bending of the Circle there are other small Islands the chief of which is called Pulo Rondo This is a small round high Island not a above 2 or 3 mile in circumference It lyes almost in the extremity of the bending on the N. E. part of the Circle but nearer Pulo Way than Pulo Gomez There are large deep Channels on either side but the most frequented is the Channel on the West side Which is called the Bengal Channel because it looks towards that Bay and Ships coming from thence from the Coast of Coromandel pass in and out this way Between Pulo Way and the Main of Sumatra is another Channel of 3 or 4 Leagues wide which is the Channel for Ships that go from Achin to the Streights of Malacca or any Country to the East of those Streights and vice versa There is good riding in all this Semicircular Bay between the Islands and Sumatra but the Road for all Ships that come to Achin is near the Sumatra Shore within all the Islands There they anchor at what distances they please according to the Monsoons or Seasons of the Year There is a small Navigable River comes out into the Sea by which Ships transport their Commodities in smaller Vessels up to the City The mouth of this River is 6 or 7 Leagues from Pulo Rondo and 3 or 4 from Pulo Way and near as many from Pulo Gomez The Islands are pretty high Champion Land the mould black or yellow the Soyl deep and fat producing large tall Trees fit for any uses There are brooks of water on the 2 great Islands of Way and Gomez and several sorts of wild Animals especially wild Hogs in abundance The Mold of this Continent is different according to the natural position of it The Mountains are Rocky especially those towards the West Coast yet most that I have seen seems to have a superficial covering of Earth naturally producing Shrubs small Trees or pretty good Grass The small Hills are most of them cloathed with Woods the Trees whereof seem by their growth to spring from a fruitful Soyl the Champion Land such as I have seen is some black some grey some reddish and all of a deep mold But to be very particular in these things especially in all my Travels is more than Ican pretend to tho it may be I took as much notice of the difference of Soil as I met with it as most Travellers have done having been bred in my youth in Somersetshire at a place called East Coker near Yeovil or Evil In which Parish there is as great variety of Soil as I have ordinarily met with any where viz. black red yellow sandy stony clay morass or swampy c. I had the more reason to take notice of this because this Village in a great measure is Let out in small Leases for Lives of 20 30 40 or 50 pound per Ann. under Coll. Helliar the Lord of the Mannor and most if not all these Tenants had their own Land scattering in small pieces up and down several sorts of Land in the Parish so that every one had some piece of every sort of Land his Black ground his Sandy Clay c. some of 20 30 or 40 Shillings an Acre for some uses and other not worth 10 groats an Acre My Mother being possest of one of these Leases and having of all these sorts of Land I came acquainted with them all and knew what each sort would produce viz. Wheat Barley Massin Rice Beans Peas Oats Fetches Flax or Hemp in all which I had a more than usual knowledge for one so young taking a particular delight in observing it but enough of this matter The Kingdom of Achin has in general a deep mould It is very well watered with Brooks and small Rivers but none navigable for Ships of burthen This of Achin admits not of any but small Vessels The Land is some part very woody in other places Savannah the Trees are of divers sorts most unknown to me by name The Cotton and Cabbage-trees grow here but not in such plenty as in some part of America These Trees commonly grow here as indeed usually where-ever they grow in a champion dry ground such at least as is not drowned or morassy for here is some such Land as that by the Rivers and there grow Mangrove Trees and other Trees of that kind Neither is this Kingdom destitute of Timber-trees fit for building The Fruits of this Country are Plantains Bonanoes Guava's Oranges Limes Jacks Durians Coco-nuts Pumple noses Pomgranates Mangoes Mangastans Citrons Water melons Musk-melons Pine-apples c. Of all these sorts of Fruits I think the Mangastan is without compare the most delicate This Fruit is in shape much like the Pomgranate but a
Yams Potatoes c. to carry aboard with us on which we fed commonly all our Voyage But after six or seven Months I left that employ also and shipt my self aboard one Capt. Hudsel who was bound to the Bay of Campeachy to load Logwood We sailed from Port-Royal about the beginning of August in 1675. in Company with Capt. Wren in a small Jamaica Bark and Capt. Johnson Commander of a Ketch belonging to New-England This Voyage is all the way before the Wind and therefore Ships commonly sail it in 12 or 14 Days Neither were we longer in our Passage for we had very fair Weather and touch'd no where till we came to Trist Island in the Bay of Campeachy which is the only place they go to In our way thither we first sailed by little Caimanes leaving it on our Larboard side and Key Monbrack which are two small Islands lying South of Cuba The next Land we saw was the Isle of Pines and steering still Westerly we made Cape Corienes And sailing on the South side of Cuba till we came to Cape Antonio which is the West end of it we stretched over towards the Peninsula of Jucatan and fell in with Cape Catoch which is in the Extream part of that Promontory towards the East The Land trends from this Cape one way South about 40 Leagues till you come to the Island Cozumel and from thence it runs S. W. down into the Bay of Honduras About 10 Leagues from Cape Catoch between it and Cozumel lies a small Island called by the Spaniards Key-Muger or Womens-Island because 't is reported that when they went first to settle in these parts they left their Wives there while they went over on the main to find some better Habitation Tho' now they have no settlement near it whatever they have had formerly About 3 Leagues from Cape Catoch and just against it is a small Island called Loggerhead-Key probably because it is frequently visited by a sort of Turtle so called near this Island we always find a great ripling which Seamen call the Rip-raps This Cape tho' it appears to be part of the Main yet is divided from it by a small Creek scarce wide enough for a Canoa to pass through though by it 't is made an Island This I have been credibly informed of by some who yet told me that they made a shift to pass it in a Canoa The Cape is very low Land by the Sea but somewhat higher as you go further from the shore It is all over-grown with Trees of divers sorts especially Logwood and therefore was formerly much frequented by the Jamaica Men who came thither in Sloops to load with it till all the Logwoodtrees near the Sea were cut down but now 't is wholly abandoned because the Carriage of it to the shore requires more labour than the cutting logging and chipping Besides they find better Wood now in the Bays of Campeachy and Honduras and have but little way to carry it not above 300 Paces when I was there whereas at Cape Catoch they were forc'd to carry it 1500 Paces before they left that Place From Cape Catoch we coasted along by the shore on the North side of Jucatan towards Cape Condecedo The Coast lies nearest West The distance between these two Capes is about 80 Leagues The shore lies pretty level without any visible Points or Bendings in the Land It is woody by the shore and full of sandy Bays and lofty Mangroves The first place of Note to the West of Cape Catoch is a small Hill by the Sea call'd the Mount and is distant from it about 14 Leagues It is very remarkable because there is no other High-Land on all this Coast. I was never ashore here but have met with some well acquainted with the Place who are all of opinion that this Mount was not natural but the Work of Men And indeed it is very probable this Place has been inhabited for here are a great many large Cisterns supposed to have been made for the receiving of Rain-water for there are no fresh Springs to be found here the Soil being all sandy and very salt So that as I have been credibly informed by an intelligent Person the Spaniards do fetch of it to make Salt-Petre He also told me that being once there in a Privateer and landing some Men on the Bay they found about 100 Packs of this Earth bound up in Palmeto-leaves and a Spanish Mulatto to guard it The Privateers at first sight of the Packs were in hopes there had been Maiz or Indian Corn in them which they then wanted but opening them they found nothing but Earth and examining the Mulatto for what use it was he said to make Powder and that he expected a Bark from Campeachy to fetch it away He further told me that tasting of it he found it very salt as all the Earth thereabouts was So that 't is not improbable that those Cisterns were made for the carrying on a Salt-Petre-Work But whatever was the design at first it is now wholly laid aside for there is no use made of them neither are there any Inhabitants near this Place Between the Mount and Cape Condecedo close by the Sea are many little Spots of Mangrove-trees which at a distance appear-like Islands but coming nearer when other lower Trees appear it shews like ragged and broken Ground but at last all the Land presents it self to your view very even The next Place of Note on this Coast is Rio de la Gartos almost in the Mid-way between Cape Catoch and Cape Condecedo This also is a very remarkable Place for here are 2 Groves of High Magnroves one on each side the River by which it may be known very well The River is but small yet deep enough for Canoas The Water is good and I know not any other Brook or fresh River on all the Coast from Cape Catoch till within 3 or 4 Leagues of Campeachy Town A little to the East of this River is a Fish-Range and a small Indian Hutt or two within the Woods where the Indian Fishers who are subject to the Spaniards lye in the Fishing-Seasons their Habitations and Familes being farther up in the Country Here are Poles to hang their Nets on and Barbecues to dry their Fish When they go off to Sea they fish with Hook and Line about 4 or 5 Leagues from the shore for Snappers and Gropers which I have already described in my Voyage round the VVorld Chap. 4. Pag. 91. Since the Privateers and Logwood-ships have sailed this way these Fisher-men are very shy having been often snap'd by them So that now when they are out at Sea if they see a Sail they presently sink their Canoas even with the edge of the Water for the Canoas when they are full of Water will sink no lower and they themselves lye just with their heads above Water till the Ship which they saw is pass'd by or comes Night I have seen them under
sail and they have thus vanished on a sudden The Fish which they take near the shore with their Nets are Snooks Dog-fish and sometimes Tarpoms The Tarpom is a large scaly Fish shaped much like a Salmon but somewhat flatter 'T is of a dull Silver Colour with Scales as big as a Half Crown A large Tarpom will weigh 25 or 30 Pound 'T is good sweet wholsom Meat and the Flesh solid and firm In its Belly you shall find two large Scalops of Fat weighing two or three Pound each I never knew any taken with Hook and Line but are either with Nets or by striking them with Harpoons at which the Moskito-Men are very expert The Nets for this purpose are made with strong double Twine the Meshes 5 or 6 Inches square For if they are too small so that the Fish be not intangled therein he presently draws himself a little backward and then springs over the Net Yet I have seen them taken in a Sain made with small Meshes in this manner After we have inclosed a great number whilst the two ends of the Net were drawing ashore 10 or 12 naked Men have followed and when a Fish struck against the Net the next Man to it grasped both Net and Fish in his Arms and held all fast till others came to his assistance Besides these we had three Men in a Canoa in which they mov'd side ways after the Net and many of the Fish in springing over the Net would fall into the Canoa And by these means we should take two or 3 at every Draught These Fish are found plentifully all along that shore from Cape Catoch to Trist especially in clear Water near sandy Bays but no where in muddy or rocky Ground They are also about Jamaica and all the Coast of the Main especially near Carthagena West from Rio de la Gartos there is a Look-out or Watch-tower called Selam This is a Place close by the shore contrived by the Spaniards for their Indians to watch in There are many of them on this Coast Some built from the Ground with Timber others only little Cages placed on a Tree big enough for one or two Men to sit in with a Ladder to go up and down These Watch-towers are never without an Indian or two all the day long the Indians who live near any of them being obliged to take their turns About three or four Leagues Westward of Selam is another Watch-Box on a High Tree called Linchanchee Lookout from a large Indian Town of that Name 4 Leagues up in the Country and two Leagues farther within Land is another Town called Chinchanchee I have been ashore at these Look-outs and have been either rowing in a Canoa or walking ashore on all this Coast even from Rio de la Gartos to Cape Condecedo but did never see any Town by the shore nor any Houses besides Fishing-hutts on all the Coast except only at Sisal Between Selam and Linchanchee are many small regular Salt Ponds divided from each other by little Banks the biggest Pond not above 10 Yards long and 6 broad The Inhabitants of these two Towns attend these Ponds in the Months of May June and July to gather the Salt which supplies all the Inland Towns of these Parts and there is a skirt of Wood between the Sea and the Ponds that you can neither see them nor the People at Work till you come ashore From these Salt Ponds further West about three or four Leagues is the Look-out called Sisal This is the highest and most remarkable on all the Coast it stands close by the Sea and it is built with Timber This is the first Object that we make off at Sea and sometimes we take it for a Sail till running nearer we discover the high Mangrove-trees appearing in small Tufts at several Distances from it Not far from hence there is a Fort with 40 or 50 Soldiers to Guard the Coast and from this Place there is a Road through the Country to the City of Merida This is the chiefest City in all the Province of Jucatan it being inhabited mostly with Spaniards Yet there are many Indian Families among them who live in great subjection as do the rest of the Indians of this Country The Province of Jucatan especially this Northern and the most Easterly Part of it is but indifferently fruitful in comparison of that rich Soil farther to the West Yet is it pretty populous of Indians who all live together in Towns but none within five or six Miles of the Sea except as I said at two or three Fishing Places and even there the Indians resort to fish but at certain Seasons of the Year Therefore when Privateers come on this Coast they fear not to Land and ramble about as if they were in their own Country seeking for Game of any sort either Fowl or Deer of both which there are great plenty especially of the latter though sometimes they pay dear for it A small Jamaica Privateer once Landed 6 or 7 Men at this Look-out of Sisal who not suspecting any danger ordered the Canoa with 3 or 4 Men to row along by the shore to take them in upon their giving a sign or firing a Gun But within half an hour they were attack'd by about 40 Spanish Soldiers who had cut them off from the shore to whom they surrendred themselves Prisoners The Spaniards carried them in triumph to the Fort and then demanded which was the Captain Upon this they all stood mute for the Captain was not among them and they were afraid to tell the Spaniards so for fear of being all hanged for Straglers Neither did any one of them dare to assume that Title because they had no Commission with them nor the Copy of it for the Captains don't usually go ashore without a Copy at least of their Commission which is wont to secure both themselves and their Men. At last one John Hullock cock'd up his little cropt Hat and told them that he was the Captain and the Spaniards demanding his Commission he said it was aboard for that he came ashore only to hunt not thinking to have met any Enemy The Spaniards were well satisfied with this Answer and afterwards respected him as the Captain and served him with better Provision and Lodging than the rest and the next day when they were sent to the City of Merida about 12 or 13 Leagues from thence Captain Hullock had a Horse to ride on while the rest went on Foot And though they were all kept in close Prison yet Hullock had the honour to be often sent for to be examined at the Governours House and was frequently Regal'd with Chocolate c. From thence they were carried to Campeachy Town where still Captain Hullock was better served than his Comrades At last I know not how they all got their Liberties and Hullock was ever after call'd Captain Jack It is about 8 Leagues from Sisal to Cape Condecedo Twenty Leagues North of which
Cattle and landed on a sandy Bay about half a Mile from them there we saw much footing of Men and Boys the Impressions seemed to be about 8 or 10 days old we supposed them to be the track of Spanish Hunters This troubled us a little but it being now their Christmas we concluded that they were gone over to Cuba to keep it there so we went after our Game the Boatswain and our Passenger Will. Wooders having one Gun and presuming on their skill in shooting were permitted to try their fortune with the Cattle that we saw before we landed while the Captain and my self with our other Gun struck up directly into the Woods The fifth Man whose genius led him rather to fish than hunt stayed in the Canoa And had he been furnished with a Harpoon he might have gotten more Fish than we did Flesh for the Cattle smelling our two Men before they came nigh them ran away after that our Men rambled up into the Country to seek for some other Game The Captain and I had not gone half a Mile before we came among a Drove of near 40 great and small wild Hogs The Captain firing wounded one of them but they all ran away and though we followed the Blood a good way yet did not come up with him nor with any other to get a second shot however because there was such great track of Hogs in the Woods we kept beating about being still in hopes to meet with more Game before Night but to no purpose for we saw not one more that day In the Evening we returned to our Boat weary and vext at our ill success The Boatswain and his Consort were not yet returned therefore we stayed till 't was dark and then went a board without them the next Morning betimes we went ashore again as well to try our fortune at Hunting as to recover our 2 Men which we thought might now be returned to the place where they landed but not seeing them the Captain and I went again out to hunt but came back at Night with no better success than before neither did we see one Beef or Hog though much track all the day This day he that look'd to the Boat kill'd a young Sword-fish with the Boat-hook there were a great many of them as also Nurses and Dogfish playing in shole Water he had also discovered a stream of fresh Water but so inclosed with thick red Mangroves that 't was impossible to fill any in cask we could scarce get a little to drink Our two Men that went out the day before were not yet returned therefore when 't was dark we went aboard again being much perplex'd for fear of their falling into the hands of the Spanish Hunters if we had been certain of it we would have sailed presently for we could not expect to redeem them again but might have been taken our selves either by them or by the Cape-Soldiers before-mentioned Indeed these Thoughts about their danger and our own kept me waking all Night However the next Morning betimes we went ashore again and before we got into the Lagune we heard a Gun fired by which we knew that our Men were arrived so we fired another in answer and rowed away as fast as we could to fetch them designing to sail as soon as we came aboard for by the fiattering South and S. W. Winds together with the clearness of the Sky we supposed we should have a North The Land intercepted our prospect near the Horizon in the N. W. therefore we did not see the black Cloud there which is a sure Prognostick of a North when we came ashore we found our two Men. They kill'd a Hog the first day but losing their way were forced to march like Tygres all the next day to get to us and threw away most of their Meat to lighten themselves yet 't was Night before they got to the side of the Lagune and then being 3 or 4 Miles still from us they made a fire and roasted their Meat and having fill'd their Bellies lay down to sleep yet had still a small Pittance left for us We presently returned aboard and feasted on the Remains of the Roastmeat and being now pretty full got up our Anchor and stood away to the South coasting along by the Island And doubling the S. W. Point we steered away East S. E. we had the Wind when we weighed at West a moderate Gale but veering about to the North got at N. W. By that time we got to the South West Point of Pines and it now blew a fierce Gale and held thus two days and then came to the N. N. W. blowing hard still and from thence to the North then we edg'd away S. E. for it blew hard and we could not bring her nearer the Wind. From the N. it came about to the N. N. E. then we knew that the heart of it was broke however it blew hard still Then it came about to the N. E. and blew about 4 hours and so by degrees dyed away and edg'd more Easterly till it came to the E. by N. and there it stood We were in good hopes while the North continued to have gotten to Jamaica before it ceased and were sorry to find our selves thus disappointed for we could not see the Island though we judged we could not be far from it at Noon we had a good observation and found our selves in the Lat. of the Island We now had not one bit of any kind of Food aboard therefore the Captain desired to know our Opinions what to do and which way we might soonest get to some shore either to beat for Jamaica or to bear away before the Wind for the South Keys All the Seamen but my self were for going to the South Keys alledging that our Ship being such a dull Sailer would never get to Wind-ward without the help of Sea and Land-Breezes which we could not expect at such a distance as we were being out of the sight of any Land and that it was probable that in three or four days time we might be among the South Keys if we would put for it and there we should find Provision enough either Fish or Flesh. I told them that the craft was in catching it and it was as probable that we might get as little Food in the South Keys as we did at Pines where though there was plenty of Beefs and Hogs yet we could not tell how to get any besides we might be six or seven days in getting to the Keys all which time we must of necessity fast which if 't were but two or three days would bring us so low that we should be in a weak condition to hunt On the contrary if they would agree to beat a day or two longer for the Island Jamaica we might in all probability see and come so near it that we might send in our Boat and get Provision from thence though we could not get in to Anchor
for by all likelihood we were not so far from the Island but that we might have seen it had it been clear and that the hanging of the Clouds seemed to indicate to us that the Land was obscured by them Some of them did acquiesce with me in my Opinion however 't was agreed to put away for the South Keys and accordingly we veered out our Sheets trimm'd our Sails and steered away N. N. W. I was so much dis-satisfied that I turned into my Cabbin and told them we should be all starved I could not sleep tho' I lay down for I was very much troubled to think of Fasting 3 or 4 Days or a Week having fared very hard already Indeed 't was by meer accident that our Food lasted so long for we carried two Barrels of Beef out with us to sell but 't was so bad that none would buy it which proved well for us for after our own Stock was spent this supplied us We boyled every day two Pieces of it and because our Pease were all eaten and our Flower almost spent we cut our Beef in small bits after 't was boiled and boiled it again in Water thickned with a little Flower and so eat it all together with Spoons The little Pieces of Beef were like Plums in our Hodg-podg Indeed 't was not fit to be eaten any other way for tho' it did not stink yet it was very unsavory and black without the least sign of Fat in it Bread and Flower being scarce with us we could not make Dough-boys to eat with it But to proceed I had not layn in my Cabbin above three Glasses before one on the Deck cryed out Land Land I was very glad at the News and we all immediately discerned it very plain The first that we saw was High-land which we knew to be Blewfields-Hill by a Bending or Saddle on the Top with two small Heads on each Side It bore N. E. by E. and we had the Wind at E. therefore we presently clap'd on a Wind and steered in N. N. E. and soon after we saw all the Coast being not above five or six Leagues from it We kept jogging in all the Afternoon not striving to get in to any particular place but where we could fetch there we were resolved to Anchor The next day being pretty near the shore between Blewfields-Point and Point Nigril and having the Wind large enough to fetch the latter we steered away directly thither and seeing a small Vessel about two Leagues N. W. of us making signs to speak with us by hoysing and lowring her Topsails we were afraid of her and edged in nearer the shore and about three a Clock in the Afternoon to our great joy we anchored at Nigrill having been 13 Weeks on our Passage I think never any Vessel before nor since made such Traverses in coming out of the Bay as we did having first blundred over the Alcrany Riff and then visited those Islands from thence fell in among the Colorado Shoals afterward made a trip to Grand Caymanes and lastly visited Pines tho' to no purpose In all these Rambles we got as much experience as if we had been sent out on a design As soon as we came to Anchor we sent our Boat ashore to buy Provisions to regale our selves after our long fatigue and fasting and were very busie going to drink a Bowl of Punch when unexpectedly Capt. Rawlins Commander of a small New-England Vessel that we left at Trist and one Mr. John Hooker who had been in the Bay a twelve Month cutting Logwood and was now coming up to Jamaica to sell it came aboard and were invited into the Cabbin to drink with us the Bowl had not yet been touch'd I think there might be six Quarts in it but Mr. Hooker being drunk to by Captain Rawlins who pledg'd Capt. Hudswell and having the Bowl in his hand said That he was under an Oath to drink but three Draughts of strong Liquor a Day and putting the Bowl to his Head turn'd it off at one Draught and so making himself drunk disappointed us of our Expectations till we made another Bowl The next day having a brisk N. W. Wind which was a kind of a Chocolatta North we arrived at Port-Royal and so ended this troublesom Voyage CHAP. II. The Author's second Voyage to the Bay of Campeachy His arrival at the Isle of Trist and setling with the Logwood-Cutters A Description of the Coast from Cape Condecedo to Trist. Salinas or Salt Ponds Salt gathered for the Spaniards by the Indians Hina a remarkable Hill Horse-hoof-fish The Triangle Islands Campeachy Town twice taken It s chief Trade Cotton Champeton River and its Logwood a rich Commodity Port-Royal Harbour and Island Prickly-Grass Sapadillo Trees Trist Island described Coco-Plum-bushes The Grape-Tree Its Animals Lizards Laguna Termina and its strong Tides Summasenta River and Chucquebull Town Serles his Key Captain Serles his Adventure The East and West Lagunes with their Branches inhabited by Logwood-Cutters Oaks growing there and no where else within the Tropicks The Original of the Logwood-Trade The Rainy Season and great Floods occasioned by Norths The dry Season Wild Pine-Plant The Logwood-Tree Blood-Wood Stock Fish-Wood and Camwood A Description of some Animals Squashes large long-tail'd Monkies Ant-bears Sloths Armadillos Tigre Catts Snakes of three sorts Calliwasps Huge Spiders Great Ants and their Nests Rambling Ants Humming Birds Black-Birds Turtle Doves Quams Corresos Carrion Crows Subtle Jacks Bill-Birds Cockrecos Ducks of several sorts Curlews Herons Crabcatchers Pelicans Cormorants Fishing Hawks Several sorts of Fish Tenpounders Parricootas Garr-Fish Spanish Mackril The Ray Alligators Crocodiles how they differ from Alligators A narrow escape of an Irish-man from an Alligator IT was not long after our Arrival at Port-Royal before we were pay'd off and discharged Now Captain Johnson of New-England being bound again into the Bay of Campeachy I took the opportunity of going a Passenger with him being resolved to spend some time at the Logwood-Trade and accordingly provided such Necessaries as were required about it viz. Hatchets Axes Macheats i. e. Long Knives Saws Wedges c. a Pavillion to sleep in a Gun with Powder and shot c. and leaving a Letter of Attorney with Mr. Fleming a Merchant of Port-Royal as well to dispose of any thing that I should send up to him as to remit to me what I should order I took leave of my Friends and Imbarked About the middle of Feb. 75 6. We sailed from Jamaica and with a fair Wind and Weather soon got as far as Cape Catoch and there met a pretty strong North which lasted two days After that the Trade settled again at E. N. E. which speedily carryed us to Trist Island In a little time I setled my self in the West Creek of the West Lagune with some old Logwood-Cutters to follow the Employment with them But I shall proceed no farther with the Relation of my own Affairs till I have given a description of the
Country and its Product with some particulars of the Logwood-Cutters their hunting for Beef and making Hides c. I have in my former Voyage described the Coast from Cape Catoch to Cape Cendecedo Therefore I shall now begin where I then left off and following the same Method proceed to give some Account of the Sea-Coast of the Bay of Campeachy being competently qualified for it by many little Excursions that I made from Trist during my abode in these Parts The Bay of Campeachy is a deep bending of the Land contained between Cape Condecedo on the East and a Point shooting forth from the High-Land of St. Martins on the West The distance between these two Places is about 120 Leagues in which are many Large and Navigable Rivers Wide Lagunes c. Of all which I shall treat in their order as also of the Land on the Coast its Soil Product c. Together with some Observations concerning the Trees Plants Vegetables Animals and Natives of the Country From Cape Condecedo to the Salinas is 14 or 15 Leagues the Coast runs in South It is all a Sandy Bay between and the Land also within is dry and sandy producing only some scrubbed Trees Half way between these two Places you may dig in the Sand above High-Water-Mark and find very good fresh Water The Salina is a fine small Harbour for Barks but there is not above 6 or 7 Foot Water and close by the Sea a little within the Land there is a large Salt Pond belonging to Campeachy-Town which yields abundance of Salt At the time when the Salt Kerns which is in May or June the Indians of the Country are ordered by the Spaniards to give their attendance to rake it ashore and gather it into a great Pyramidal Heap broad below and sharp at the top like the Ridg of a House then covering it all over with dry Grass and Reeds they set fire to it and this burns the out-side Salt to a hard black Crust The hard Crust is afterwards a defence against the Rains that are now settled in and preserves the Heap dry even in the wettest Season The Indians whose business I have told you is to gather the Salt thus into Heaps wait here by turns all the Kerning Season not less than 40 or 50 Families at a time yet here are no Houses for them to lie in neither do they at all regard it for they are relieved by a fresh supply of Indians every Week and they all sleep in the open Air some on the Ground but most in very poor Hammacks fastned to Trees or Posts stuck into the Ground for that purpose Their Fare is no better than their Lodging for they have no other Food while they are here but Tartilloes and Posole Tartilloes are small Cakes made of the Flower of Indian Corn and Posole is also Indian Corn boiled of which they make their Drink But of this more hereafter when I treat of the Natives and their Manner of Living When the Kerning Season is over the Indians march home to their settled Habitations taking no more care of the Salt But the Spaniards of Campeachy who are Owners of the Ponds do frequently send their Barks hither for Salt to load Ships that lye in Campeachy Road and afterwards transport it to all the Ports in the Bay of Mexico especially to Aluarado and Tompeck two great Fishing Towns and I think that all the Inland Towns thereabouts are supplied with it for I know of no other Salt Ponds on all the Coast besides this and those before-mentioned This Salina Harbour was often visited by the English Logwood-Cutters in their way from Jamaica to Trist. And if they found any Barks here either light or laden they made bold to take and sell both the Ships and the Indian Sailers that belonged to them This they would tell you was by way of reprizal for some former injuries received of the Spaniards though indeed 't was but a pretence for the Governours of Jamaica knew nothing of it neither durst the Spaniards complain for at that time they used to take all the English Ships they met with in these Parts not sparing even such as came laden with Sugar from Jamaica and were bound for England especially if they had Logwood aboard This was done openly for the Ships were carried into the Havanna there sold and the Men imprisoned without any Redress From the Salinas to Campeachy Town is about 20 Leagues the Coast runs S. by W. The first 4 Leagues of it along the Coast is drowned mangrove-Mangrove-Land yet about two Mile South of the Salina about 200 Yards from the Sea there is a fresh Spring which is visited by all the Indians that pass this way either in Bark or Canoa there being no Water beside near it and there is a small dirty path leads to it thro' the Mangroves after you are past these Mangroves the Coast riseth higher with many sandy Bays where Boats may conveniently land but no fresh Water till you come to a River near Campeachy Town The Land further along the Coast is partly Mangrovy but most of it dry Ground and not very fruitful producing only a few scrubed Bushes And there is no Logwood growing on all this Coast even from Cape Catoch to Campeachy Town About six Leagues before you come to Campeachy there is a small Hill called Hina where Privateers do commonly Anchor and keep Sentinels on the Hill to look out for Ships bound to the Town There is plenty of good Fire-wood but no Water and in the surf of the Sea close by the shore you find abundance of Shell-fish called by the English Horse-hoofs because the under part or belly of the Fish is flat and somewhat resembling that Figure in Shape and Magnitude but the back is round like a Turtles the Shell is thin and brittle like a Lobsters with many small Claws and by report they are very good Meat but I never tasted any of them my self There are three small low sandy Islands about 25 or 26 Leagues from Hina bearing North from it and 30 Leagues from Campeachy On the South side of these Islands there is good Anchorage but neither Wood nor Water And as for Animals we saw none but only great numbers of large Rats and plenty of Boobies and Men-of-War-Birds These Islands are call'd the Triangles from the Figure they make in their Position There are no other at any distance from the shore but these and the Alcranies mentioned in the former Chapter in all this Coast that I have seen From Hina to Campeachy as I said before is about 6 Leagues Campeachy is a fair Town standing on the shore in a small bending of the Land and is the only Town on all this Coast even from Cape Catoch to La Vera Cruz that stands open to the Sea It makes a fine shew being built all with good Stone The Houses are not high but the Walls very strong the Roofs flatish after the Spanish Fashion and
enough for small Barks 7 or 8 Mile up The Water is fresh 10 Months but in the midst of the dry Season 't is brackish Four Mile from the Mouth the Land on both sides these two Branches is wet and swampy affording only Mangroves by the Creeks sides only at the Heads of them there are many large Oaks besides which I did never see any growing within the Tropicks but 20 Paces within that grows plenty of Logwood therefore the Cutters settled themselves here also On the West side of the West Branch lyes a large Pasture for Cattle about 3 Miles from the Creek to which the Logwood-Cutters had made paths from their Huts to hunt Cattle which are always there in great numbers and commonly fatter than those in the Neighbouring Savannahs and therefore was called the fat Savannah and this West Creek was always most inhabited by Logwood-Cutters The Logwood-Trade was grown very common before I came hither here being as I said before about 260 or 270 Men living in all the Lagune and at Beef-Island of which Isle I shall speak hereafter This Trade had its Rise from the decay of Privateering for after Jamaica was well settled by the English and a Peace established with Spain the Privateers who had hitherto lived upon plundering the Spaniards were put to their shifts for they had prodigally spent whatever they got and now wanting subsistence were forced either to go to Petit Guavas where the Privateer-Trade still continued or into the Bay for Logwood The more Industrious sort of them came hither yet even these though they could work well enough if they pleased yet thought it a dry business to toil at Cutting Wood. They were good Marks-Men and so took more delight in Hunting but neither of those Employments affected them so much as Privateering therefore they often made Sallies out in small Parties among the nearest Indian Towns where they plundred and brought away the Indian Women to serve them at their Huts and sent their Husbands to be sold at Jamaica besides they had not their old Drinking-bouts forgot and would still spend 30 or 40 l. at a sitting aboard the Ships that came hither from Jamaica carousing and firing off Guns 3 or 4 days together And tho' afterwards many sober Men came into the Bay to cut Wood yet by degrees the old Standers so debauched them that they could never settle themselves under any Civil Government but continued in their Wickedness till the Spaniards encouraged by their careless Rioting fell upon them and took most of them singly at their own Huts and carried them away Prisoners to Campeachy or La Vera Cruz from whence they were sent to Mexico and sold to several Tradesmen in that City and from thence after two or three Years when they could speak Spanish many of them made their Escapes and marched in by-Paths back to La Vera Cruz and by the Flota conveyed to Spain and so to England I have spoke with many of them since who told me that none of them were sent to the Silver Mines to Work but kept in or near the City and never suffered to go with their Caravans to New Mexico or that way I relate this because it is generally suggested that the Spaniards commonly send their Prisoners thither and use them very barbarously but I could never learn that any European has been thus served whether for fear of discovering their Weakness or for any other Reason I know not But to proceed It is most certain that the Logwood-Cutters that were in the Bay when I was there were all routed or taken a thing I ever feared and that was the reason that moved me at last to come away although a Place where a Man might have gotten an Estate Having thus given an Account of the first settling of this Place by my Country-men I shall next say something concerning the Seasons of the Year some particulars of the Country its Animals of the Logwood-Trade and their manner of Hunting and several remarkable Passages that happened during my stay there This part of the Bay of Campeachy lyes in about 18d of North Lat. The Sea-Breezes here in fair weather are at N. N. E. or N. The Land-winds are at S. S. E. and S. but in bad Weather at E. S. E. a hard gale for two or three days together The dry Season begins in September and holds till April or May then comes in the wet Season which begins with Tornadoes first one in a day and by degrees increasing till June and then you have set Rains till the latter end of August This swells the Rivers so that they over-flow and the Savannahs begin to be covered with Water and although there may be some Intermissions of dry Weather yet there are still plentiful showers of Rain so that as the water does not increase neither does it decrease but continues thus till the North Winds are set in strong and then all the Savannahs for many Miles seems to be but part of the Sea The Norths do commonly set in about the beginning of October and continue by intervals till March But of these I shall speak more in my Chapter of Winds These Winds blowing right in on the Land drive in the Sea and keep the Tides from their constant Course as long as they last which is sometimes two or three Days by this means the Freshes are pent up and overflow much more than before tho' there be less Rain They blow most fiercely in December and January but afterwards they decrease in strength and are neither so frequent nor lasting and then the Freshes begin to drain from off the low Ground By the middle of Feb. the Land is all dry and in the next Month perhaps you will scarce get Water to drink even in those Savannahs that but 6 Weeks before were like a Sea By the beginning of April the Ponds also in the Savannahs are all dryed up and one that knows not how to get Water otherways may perish for thirst but those that are acquainted here in their Necessity make to the Woods and refresh themselves with Water that they find in wild Pines The wild Pine is a plant so called because it somewhat resembles the Bush that bears the Pine they are commonly supported or grow from some Bunch Knot or Excrescence of the Tree where they take root and grow upright The root is short and thick from whence the Leaves rise up in folds one within another spreading off at the top They are of a good thick Substance and about 10 or 12 Inches long The out side Leaves are so compact as to contain the Rain-water as it falls They will hold a Pint and a half or a Quart and this Water refreshes the Leaves and nourishes the Root When we find these Pines we stick our Knives into the Leaves just above the Root and that lets out the Water which we catch in our Hats as I have done many times to my great relief The Land near
by their firing as they should have done was taken without any resistance Villa de Mose is a small Town standing on the Starbord side of the River four Leagues beyond this Breast-work 'T is inhabited chiefly by Indians with some Spaniards there is a Church in the middle and a Fort at the West end which commands the River Thus far Ships come to bring goods especially European Commodities viz. Broad-cloth Serges Perpetuana's Kersies Thred-Stockings Hats Ozenbrigs white and blew Ghentins Platilloes Britannias Hollandilloes Iron-work c. They arrive here in November or December and stay till June or July selling their Commodities and then load chiefly with Cacao and some Sylvester All the Merchants and petty Traders of the Country Towns come hither about Christmas to Traffick which makes this Town the chiefest in all these parts Campeachy excepted yet there are but few Rich Men that live here Sometimes Ships that come hither load Hides and Tallow if they cannot fraight with Cacao But the chiefest place for Hides is a Town lying on a Branch of this River that comes out a League below the Breast-work where Spanish Barks usually lade once a year but I can give no further account of it Four Leagues beyond Villa de Mose further up the River lies Estapo inhabited partly with Spaniards but most Indians as generally the Towns in this Country are it 's said to be pretty rich stands close by the River on the South side and is so built between two Creeks that there is but one Avenue leading to it and so well guarded with a Breast-work that Captain Hewet a Privateer who had under him near 200 Men was there repulsed losing many of them and himself wounded in the Leg. In his way thither he took Villa de Mose and left a Party there to secure his Retreat If he had taken Estapo he designed to pass on to Halpo a Rich Town three Leagues farther up the River and from thence to visit Tacatalpo lying 3 or 4 Leagues beyond which is accounted the wealthiest of the three the Spaniards call it Tacatalpo de Sierra whether to distinguish it from another Town of that name or to denote its nearness to the Mountains I know not 'T is the best Town on this River having three Churches and several Rich Merchants and between it and Villa de Mose are many large Cacao Walks on each side the River I have seen a sort of white Cacao brought from hence which I never met with any where else It is of the same bigness and colour on the outside and with such a thin husky Coat as the other but the inner substance is white like fine Flower and when the outward Coat is broken it crumbles as a lump of Flower doth Those that frequent the Bay call it Spuma and affirm that it is much used by the Spaniards of those parts to make their Chocolate froth who therefore set a great value on it But I never yet met with any in England that knew it except the Right Honourable the Earl of Carbery who was pleased to tell me he had seen of it The Land on the South side of the River is low Savannahs or Pasture The side where the Town of Villa de Mose stands is a sort of grey sandy Earth and the whole Country the Up-land I mean seems to be much the same But the Low-land is of a black deep Mould and in some places very strong Clay and there is not a Stone to be found in all the Country The healthy dry Land is very Woody except where inhabited or planted It is pretty thick settled with Indian Towns who have all a Padre or two among them and a Cacique or Governour to keep the Peace The Cacao Tree thrives here very well but the Nuts are smaller than the Caraccus Nuts yet Oyly and Fat whilst New They are not planted near the Sea as they are on the Coast of Caraccus but at least 8 or 10 Miles up in the Country The Cacao-walks belong chiefly to the Spaniards and are only planted and dress'd by Indians hired for that purpose yet the Indians have of their own Plantain-walks Plantations of Maiz and some small Cacao-walks about which they spend the chiefest of their time Some Employ themselves to search in the Woods for Bees that build in hollow Trees and get a good livelihood by their Honey and Wax These are of two sorts One pretty large the other no bigger but longer than an ordinary black Fly in other respects just like our common Bees only of a darker colour Their Stings are not strong enough to enter a Man's Skin but if disturbed they will fly at one as furiously as the great Bees and will tickle but cannot hurt you Their Honey is white and clear and they make a great deal of it The Indians keep of them tame and cut hollow Trunks for them to make their Combs in They place one end of the Log which is saw'd very even on a Board leaving a hole for the Bees to creep in at and the upper end is covered with a Board put close over it The young and lusty Indians such as want Employment hire themselves to the Spaniards They Work cheap and are commonly paid in such Goods as the Spaniards do not value And I have been told that they are obliged to Work for their Masters one day in a Week gratis But whether this Priviledge belongs only to the Padres or to the Laity also I know not The Indians inhabiting these Villages live like Gentlemen in Comparison of those that are near any great Town such as Campeachy or Merida for there even the Poorer and Rascally sort of People that are not able to hire one of these poor Creatures will by violence drag them to do their Drudgery for nothing after they have work'd all day for their Masters nay they often take them out of the Market from their Business or at least enjoyn them to come to their Houses when their Market is ended and they dare not refuse to do it This Country is very fruitful yielding plentiful Crops of Maiz which is their chiefest Subsistence After it is boil'd they bruise it on such a Rubbing-stone as Chocolate is grownd on Some of it they make into small thin Cakes called Tartilloes The rest they put into a Jar till it grows sowr and when they are thirsty mix a handful of it in a Callabash of Water which gives it a sharp pleasant taste then streining it through a large Callabash prick'd full of small Holes to keep out the Husks they drink it off If they treat a Friend with this Drink they mix a little Honey with it for their Ability reaches no higher And this is as acceptable to them as a Glass of Wine to us If they travel for two or three Days from Home they carry some of this Grown'd Maiz in a Plantain Leaf and a Callabash at their Girdles to make their drink and take no farther
of Cattle belonging to an Indian Village In the Woods on each side this River there are plenty of Guanoes Land-Turtle and abundance of Quams and Corresos with some Parrots and there is no Settlement nearer than the Beef Estantion nor any thing else remarkable in this River that I know A League West from Checapeque there is another small River called Dos Boccas 't is only fit for Canoas to enter It has a Bar at its Mouth and therefore is somewhat dangerous Yet the Privateers make light of it for they will govern a Canoa very ingeniously However Captain Rives and Captain Hewet two Privateers lost several Men here in coming out for there had been a North which had raised the Bar and in going out most of their Canoas were over-set and some Men drowned This River wlll not float a Canoa above a League within its Mouth and so far is salt but there you meet with a fine clear Stream of fresh Water about a League up in the Country and beyond this are fair Savannahs of long Grass fenced in with Ridges of as rich Land as any in the World The Mold such as is formerly described all plain and level even to the Hills of Chiapo There are no Indian Towns within 4 or 5 Leagues of the Sea but further off they are pretty thick lying within a League 2 or 3 one of another Halpo is the chiefest The Indians make use of no more Land than serves to maintain their Families in Maiz and to pay their Taxes And therefore between the Towns it lies uncultivated In all this Country they rear abundance of Poultry Viz. Turkies Ducks and Dunghil Fowls but some of them have Cacao-Walks The Cacao of these Parts is most of it sent to Villa de Mose and ship'd off there Some of it is sold to Carriers that travail with Mules coming hither commonly in Nov. or Dec. and staying till Febr. or March They lye a Fortnight at a time in a Village to dispose of their Goods which are commonly Hatchets Macheats Axes Hoes Knives Cizars Needles Thread Silk for sowing Womens Frocks small Looking-glasses Beads Silver or Copper Rings wash'd with Gold set with Glass instead of Stones small Pictures of Saints and such like Toys for the Indians And for the Spaniards Linnen and Woollen Cloaths Silks Stockings and old Hats new dress'd which are here very valuable and worn by those of the best Quality so that an old English Beaver thus ordered would be worth 20 Dollars so much is Trade wanted here in this Country When he has sold off his Goods he is generally paid in Cacao which he carries to La Vera Cruz. From Dos Boccas to the River Palmas is 4 Leagues low Land and sandy Bay between From Palmas to the Halover is 2 Leagues The Halover is a small Neck of Land parting the Sea from a large Lagune It is so call'd by the Privateers because they use to drag their Canoas in and out there From the Halover to St. Anns is 6 Leagues St. Anns is a Mouth that opens the Lagune before mentioned there is not above 6 or 7 Foot Water yet Barks often go in there to Careen From St. Anns to Tondelo is 5 Leagues The Coast still West the Land low and sandy Bay against the Sea a little within which are pretty high Sand-Banks cloathed with prickly Bushes such as I have already described at Beef-Island Against the Sea near the West end within the Sand Bank the Land is lower again the Woods not very high and some spots of Savannahs with plenty of fat Bullocks In Hunting of which a Frenchman unhappily lost his Life For his Company being stragled from him to find Game he unluckily met a Drove of Cattle flying from them in the Woods which were so thick that there was no passing but in these very narrow Paths that the Cattle themselves had made so that not being able to get out of their way the foremost of the Drove thrust his Horns into his Back and carried him a 100 Paces into the Savannah where he fell down with his Guts trailing on the Ground The River Tondeloe is but narrow yet capable to receive Barks of 50 or 60 Tuns there is a Bar at the Entrance and the Channel crooked On the West side of the Bar there is a spit of Sand shoots out therefore to avoid it at your coming in you must keep the East side aboard but when once entred you may run up for two or three Leagues on the East side a quarter of a Mile within the Mouth you may lie secure but all this Coast and especially this River intolerably swarms with Musketoes that there is no sleeping for them About 4 or 5 Leagues from the Mouth this River is fordable and there the Road crosses it where two French Canoas that lay in this River intercepted the Caravan of Mules laden with Cacao that was returning to La Vera Cruz taking away as much as they could carry with them From Tondeloe River to the River of Guasickwalp is 8 Leagues more the Coast still West all along sandy Bay and sand-Hills as between St. Anns and Tondeloe only towards the West part the Bank is lower and the Trees higher This is one of the Principal Rivers of this Coast 't is not half the breadth of the Tobasco River but deeper It s Bar is less dangerous than any on this Coast having 14 foot Water on it and but little Sea Within the Bar there is much more and soft Oasie ground The Banks on both sides are low The East side is woody and the West side Savannah Here are some Cattle but since it has been frequented by Privateers the Spaniards have driven most of their Bullocks from hence farther into the Country This River hath its rise near the South Sea and is Navigable a great way into Land especially with Boats or small Barks The River Teguantapeque that falls into the South Seas hath its Origine near the Head of Guasickwalp and it is reported that the first Naval Stores for the Manila Ships were sent through the Country from the North to the South Seas by the conveniency of these two Rivers whose Heads are not above 10 or 12 Leagues asunder I heard this discoursed by the Privateers long before I visited the South Seas and they seemed sometimes minded to try their Fortunes this way supposing as many do still that the South Sea shore is nothing but Gold and Silver But how grosly they are mistaken I have satisfied the World already And for this part of the Country though it is rich in Land yet it has not the least appearance of any Mine neither is it thick inhabited with Spaniards And if I am not deceived the very Indians in the heart of the Country are scarce their Friends The Town of note on the S. Sea is Teguantapeque and on the N. Seas Keyhooca is the chiefest near this River Besides these two the Country is only inhabited by Indians
therefore it is wholly unfrequented by Shipping Keyhooca is a large rich Town of good Trade about 4 Leagues from the River Guasickwalp on the West side It is inhabited with some few Spaniards and abundance of Mulatoes These keep many Mules they being most Carriers and frequently visit the Cacao Coast for Nuts and travel the Country between Villa de Mose and La Vera Cruz. This Country is pleasant enough in the dry Season but when the furious North Winds rage on the Coast and violently drive in the Sea it suffers extreamly being so much overflown that there is no travelling It was in the wet Season when Capt. Rives and Capt. Hewet made an Expedition in Canoas from the Island Trist to the River Guasickwalp and there Landed their Men designing to attack Keyhooca but the Country was so wet that there was no Marching neither was the Water high enough for a Canoa Here are great plenty of Vinellos From the River Guasickwalp the Land runs West 2 or 3 Leagues all low Land with sandy Bay to the Sea and very woody in the Country About three Leagues to the West of it the Land trends away to the North for about 16 Leagues rising higher also even from the very shore as you go up within Land making a very high Promontory called St. Martins Land but ending in a pretty bluff Point which is the West Bounds of the Bay of Campeachy From this blunt Point to Alvarado is about 20 Leagues the first four of it a high rocky shore with steep Cliffs to the Sea and the Land somewhat woody Afterwards you pass by very high Sand-hills by the Sea and an extraordinary great Sea falls in on the shore which hinders any Boats from Landing Within the Sand-hills again the Land is lower pretty plain and fruitful enough in large Trees The River of Alvarado is above a Mile over at the Mouth yet the entrance is but shole there being Sands for near two Mile off the shore clear from side to side nevertheless there are two Channels through these Sands The best which is in the middle has 12 or 14 Foot Water The Land on each side of the Mouth is high Sand-banks above 200 Foot high This River comes out of the Country in three Branches meeting altogether just within the Mouth where it is very wide and deep One of these Branches comes from the Eastward Another from the Westward And the third which is the true River of Alvarado and the biggest comes directly out of the Country opposite to the Sand-hills about a Mile West of the Rivers Mouth This last springs a great way from the Sea passing through a very fertile Country thick settled with Towns of Spaniards and Indians On the West side and just against the Mouth of the River the Spaniards have a small Fort of 6 Guns on the declivity of the Sand-bank a great heighth above the River which commands a small Spanish Town on the Back of it built in a Plain close by the River It is a great Fishery chiefly for Snooks which they catch in the Lake and when they are salted and dryed drive a great Trade in Exchanging them for Salt and other Commodities Besides salt Fish they export from hence abundance of dry Cod-Pepper and some pickled and put in Jars This Pepper is known by the Name of Guinea Pepper Yet for all this Trade 't is but a poor Place and yet has been often taken by the Privateers chiefly to secure their Ships while they should go up in their Canoas to the rich Towns within Land which notwithstanding they never yet attempted by reason that La Vera Cruz bordering so near they were still afraid of being attacqued both by Sea and Land from thence and so never durst prosecute their designs on the Country Towns Six Leagues West from Alvarado there is another large Opening out into the Sea and it is reported to have a Communication by a small Creek with this River of Alvarado and that Canoas may pass through it from one River to the other And at this Opening is a small Fishing Village The Land by the Sea is a continued high Sand-bank and so violent a Sea that it is impossible to Land with Boat or Canoa From this River to La Vera Cruz is 6 Leagues more the Coast still West There is a Riff of Rocks runs along the shore from Alvarado to Vera Cruz yet a good Channel for small Vessels to pass between it and the shore And about two Leagues to the East of Vera Cruz are two Islands called Sacrifice Islands I have set down the distance between Alvarado and La Vera Cruz according to the Common Account of 12 Leagues which I take to be truer but our Draughts make it 24. The Land by the Sea is much the same La Vera Cruz is a fair Town seated in the very bottom of the Bay of Mexico at the S. W. Point or Corner of the Bay for so far the Land runs West and there it turns about to the North. There is a good Harbour before it made by a small Island or Rock rather just in its Mouth which makes it very Commodious Here the Spaniards have built a strong Fort which commands the Harbour and there are great Iron Rings fix'd in the Fort-Wall against the Harbour for Ships to fasten their Cables For the North Winds blow so violently here in their Seasons that Ships are not safe at Anchors This Fort is called St. John d'Ulloa and the Spaniards do frequently call the Town of Vera Cruz by this Name The Town is a Place of great Trade being the Sea-Port to the City of Mexico and most of the great Towns and Cities in this Kingdom So that all the European Commodities spent in these Parts are Landed here and their Goods brought hither and Exported from hence Add to this that all the Treasure brought from Manila in the East Indies comes hither through the Country from Accapulca The Flota comes hither every three Years from Old Spain and besides Goods of the Product of the Country and what is brought from the East Indies and ship'd aboard them The King's Plate that is gathered in this Kingdom together with what belongs to the Merchants amounts to a vast Summ. Here also comes every Year the Barralaventa Fleet in October or November and stays till March. This is a small Squadron consisting of 6 or 7 Sail of stout Ships from 20 to 50 Guns These are ordered to visit all the Spanish Sea-Port Towns once every Year chiefly to hinder Foreigners from Trading and to suppress Privateers From this Port they go to the Havana on the North side of Cuba to sell their Commodities From hence they pass through the Gulph of Florida standing so far to the North as to be out of the Trade-Winds which are commonly between 30 d. and 40 d. of Lat. and being in a variable Winds-way they stretch away to the Eastwards till they may fetch Portarica if
in danger to be over-set by them or at least lose Masts or Yards or have the Sails split besides the Consternation that all Men must needs be in at such a time especially if the Ship by any unforeseen accident should prove unruly as by the mistake of the Man at Helm or he that Conns or by her broaching too against all endeavours which often happens when a fierce gust comes which though it does not last long yet would do much damage in a short time and tho' all things should fall out well yet the benefit of it would not compensate the danger For 't is much if a Ship sails a Mile before either the VVind dyes wholly away or at least shifts about again to the South Nor are we sure that these VVinds will continue 3 Minutes before they shift and sometimes they fly round faster than the Ship will tho' the Helm lies for it and all Seamen know the danger of being taken a back in such VVeather But what has been spoken of the Southerly VVinds Calms and Tornadoes is to be understood of the East side of the Atlantick to as far VVest as the Longitude of 359 d. or thereabouts for farther VVesterly we find the VVinds commonly at S. E. even in crossing the Line and a very brisk gale 't is for that reason our experienced Guinea Commanders do keep to the Southward of the Line till they are about that Longitude Some run over nearer the American Shore before they cross the Line Our East India Commanders do also cross the Line coming from India near the American Coast and find brisk Gales at S. E. all the times of the Year but going to the Indies they steer away South from the Island St. Jago where they commonly VVater and meet the Winds in that Longitude But of this enough The Winds near the Line in the Indian Ocean and South Sea are different from this yet there the Winds are also Southerly and therefore different from what they are farther off for 2 d. or 3 d. on each side the Line the Winds are commonly very uncertain and oftentimes there are perfect Calms or at least very small Winds and some Tornadoes in the East Indian Sea In the South Seas near and under the Line the Winds are at South 130 Leagues off from the Shoar but how farther off I know not there the Winds are but small yet constant and the Weather clear from March till September but about Christmas there are Tornadoes yet in both the East Indian Sea and the South Sea the VVinds near or under the Line are often at South yet these Winds do not blow above 2 or 3 d. to the North or South of the Line except near some Land but in the Atlantick Sea as I have said before the South and South West Winds do sometimes blow even to 10 or 12 d. North of the Line And for the South Winds to blow constantly near the Line in the Atlantick between Cape Verd in Africa and C. Blunco in Brazil is no wonderful thing if a Man will but consider those Promontories that shoot out from the Continents on each side the Sea one on the North the other on the South side of the Equafor leaving but a small space clear for the VVinds to blow in where there is always a pretty brisk Gale especially on the American side And as within 2 or 3 d. of the Equator it is most subject to Calms and Tornadoes and small faint Breezes in other Seas not pend up as this is So this Sea except just in the very opening between both Promontories is much more subject to it than any other especially on the East side that is from the Bite or the Inland corner of the Coast of Guinea to 28 or 30 d. distance VVest But this seems not to be altogether the effects of the Line but owing partly to the nearness of the Land to the Line which shoots out from the Bite of Guinea even to Cape St. Anns almost in a parrallel with the Equator allowing for the Bays a bendings and this is 23 or 24 d. of Longitude and not above 80 Leagues from the Line in some Places So that this part of the Sea between the Coast of Guinea and the Line or 2 d. South of it lying as it were between the Land and the Line is seldom free from bad VVeather especially from April to September but when the Sun is withdrawn towards the Tropick of Capricorn then there is something better VVeather there And in the Sea under the Line between the African Promontory and the American it is freer from Tornadoes and Calms and more subject to fair VVeather and fresh Breezes Therefore both our English and Dutch East India Ships when outward-bound endeavour to Cross the Line as near as they can in the mid Channel between both Promontories and although they meet the VVinds sometimes at S. S. E. or at S. S. W. or farther Easterly or Westerly yet will they not run above a degree to the East or a degree to the West of the mid Channel before they tack again for fear of meeting with the soaking Current on the West or Calms on the East side either of which would be alike prejudicial to their Course The Portuguise in their Voyages to Brazil take the same method and get to the South of the Line before they fall in with the Land for fear of falling to leward of Cape St. Augustine for there are so many things which make that a difficult Cape to pass that hardly any Man would try to do it but at a distance But our Guinea Ships do generally pass on to their Ports on the Coast of Guinea at any time of the Year without using such methods because their Business lyes mostly on the North of the Line where they always find a fair Westerly Wind. But in their returns from thence they cross the Line and run 3 or 4 d. to the Southward of it where they meet the Wind between the S. S. E. and the S. S. W. and a brisk gale with this Wind they run away in the same parrallel 35 or 36 d. before they cross the Line again to the Northward which is about mid-way between the Extreams of both Promontories there they find a brisk gale which carries them to the West Indies or where they please Some run West 40 d. before they cross the Line and find strong Gales whereas should they come from Old Callabar or any other Place in the Bite on the North of the Line and steer away West thinking to gain their Passage the sooner because it is the nearest way they would doubtless be mistaken as many Men have been For if they keep near the Line they meet with great Calms and if they keep near the Land they meet with Westerly Winds and if they keep in the middle between both they must of necessity meet with both Inconveniencies as also with Tornadoes especially in May June July and
August By which means some Ships if they go any of these three ways now cautioned against spend more time in going from the Bite to Cape Verd than another Ship will do if it cross the Line in the right Places before mentioned in going to the Barbadoes Sometimes unexperienced Guinea Masters in their return from thence after they have cross'd the Line from N. to S. and are in a fair way to gain a speedy Passage will be so obstinate in their Opinions after they have run 26 28 or 30 d. West from Old Callabar with a fair Wind to steer away W. by N. or W. N. W. it being the directest Course they can steer for Barbadoes then they must of necessity keep within a degree of the Line while they are running 2 or 300 Leagues which may prove to be a long time in doing because of the uncertainty of the Winds near the Equator therefore they that cross it near the middle between both Promontories or near the American Coast when they are minded to fall away to the Northward steer away N. W. or N. W. by N. and so depress or raise a degree in running 28 Leagues at most therefore which is best they are but a short time near the Equator And besides in thus crossing it in the middle between both Promontories they seldom miss of a Wind for the Wind in these Seas has no other Passage but between these two Promontories What I have said already on this Head has been chiefly of the Atlantick and of that too mostly about the Line because it is the most difficult Place to pass in going to the Southward In other Seas as in the East Indian Sea and the Great South Sea there is no such difficulty to pass any way because there is Sea-room enough without coming into such Inconveniencies as we meet with in the Atlantick and as to the Winds between the Line and the Tropicks in the East Indian Sea and the South Sea they are in their Latitudes as I said before viz. in South Latitude at E. S. E. and in North Lat. at E. N. E. blowing constantly fresh Breezes especially in the South Seas even from within a degree or two of the Line on each side to the Tropick or to 30 degrees of Lat. And this I may truly say That neither the Atlantick nor the East Indian Seas have the true Trade-Winds so constant nor brisk at all times of the Year and in all Latitudes as they are here For being once got into the Trade I mean without the verge of the coasting Trade-Wind it blows a very brisk gale all over the Ocean Capt. Eaton experienced this in sailing from the Gallapagos Islands to the Ladrones In the latter end of the Year 1685. VVe had the like experience sailing from Cape Corientes to Guam the Year after as appears by my Journal of that Run in my Voyage round the World Chap. 10. Pag. 185. And as for the Wind to the Southward of the Line I had great Experience of it in my ramble there with Capt. Shearp and since that Capt. Davis in his return out of the South Sea had greater experience because he took his departure from the Gallapagos Islands also and steering W. S. W. from thence till he met the True Trade at E. S. E. he steered directly South clear from the Line till he got to the Southward of the Tropick of Capricorn and so quite without the Trade In the East Indian Sea between the Lat. of 30 d. and 4 degrees South of the Equator the true Breez is at E. S. E. or S. E. by E. yet not so constant nor brisk as in the South Seas besides that part of it which lyes to the Northward of the Line has not such a constant steady Breez but is more subject to Calms and near the shoar to shifting Winds according to the Seasons of the Year CHAP. II. Of the constant coasting Trade-Winds A Parallel of the South Part of Africa and Peru. The Trade-Winds blow with an acute Angle on any Coast. The Winds about Angola and in the South Seas alike as also at Mexico and Guinea The Winds shift not in some Places Sand blown from the Shoar about Cape Blanco in Guinea An Account of the Trade-Winds from thence to Cape Lopos THE Trade-Winds which blow on any Coast are either Constant or Shifting The Coasts that are subject to constant Trade-Winds are the South Coast of Africa and Peru and part of the Coast of Mexico and part of Guinea The South part of Africa and Peru are in one Lat. both Coasts trending North and South both on the West side of their Continents both in South Lat. and tho' they do not lye exactly parallel by Reason of some Capes or Bendings in the Land yet are the Winds much alike on both Coasts all the Year long On the Coast of Angola the Winds are between the S. W. and S. And on the Coast of Peru we reckon them between the S. S. W. and S. S. E. But this the Reader must take notice of That the Trade-Winds that blow on any Coast except the North Coast of Africa whether they are constant and blow all the Year or whether they are shifting Winds do never blow right in on the Shoar nor right along Shoar but go slanting making an accute Angle of about 22 degrees Therefore as the Lands trends more Easterly or Westerly from the North or South on these Coasts so the Winds do alter accordingly as for example Where the Land lies N. and S. the Wind would be at S. S. W. but where the Land lies S. S. W. the Trade would be at S. W. But if the Land lyes S. S. E. then the Wind would be at South This is supposed of Coasts lying on the West side of any Continent and on the South side of the Equator as the two Coasts of Africa and Peru are but the North part of Africa has the Trade blowing off from the shoar two or three Points These Southerly Winds do blow constantly all the Year long on both the Coasts of Peru and Africa they are brisk and blow farther off from the Coasts than any shifting Winds On the Coast of Peru these Winds blow 140 or 150 Leagues off Shore before you can perceive them to alter But then as you run farther off so the Wind will come about more Easterly and at about 200 Leagues distance it settles at E. S. E. which is the true Trade Between Angola and Brazil the Winds are much as they are in the South Seas on the West side of the Peruvian Coast only near the Line within 4 degrees of it in South Lat. the Wind holds in the S. S. W. or S. W. for 28 or 30 d. of Longitude and so it may in the same Lat. in the South Seas for ought I know for it was at South as far as any of us were which was near 200 Leagues As the Coasts of Peru and Angola have their constant
Trade-Winds so has the Coast of Mexico and Guinea And as the Coast of Peru lies North and South so those lye nearest East and West According to the Course of the general Trade the Winds should be Easterly on these Coasts but here we meet with the quite contrary for from the Lat. of 10 d. North to 20 d. North on the Coast of Mexico the Winds are constantly near the West on all the Coast except check'd sometimes with Tornadoes which do commonly rise against the Wind the same is observed on the Coast of Angola where there are Tornadoes also But the Coast of Peru is not subject to any yet on that Coast there are sometimes Calms two or three days together off of the Bay of Arica between the Lat. of 16 and 23. In the Lat. of 19 you shall have Calms 30 or 40 Leagues off Shore but not so far on either side the Bay neither are such Calms usual on the Coasts of Angola and Mexico only after a Tornado as is common in other Places As the Coasts of Angola and Peru do in most things run parallel each with other so do the Coasts of Mexico and Guinea And if I am not mistaken the Winds on both these Coasts are much alike Both these Coasts do begin at the Bite or Bending of the Land where the other two Parallel Lands do end for as the Mexican Continent begins at or near Panama which is 8 or 9 degrees North of the Equator so that part of Guinea which I speak of begins about Old Callabar in about 4 or 5 degrees of North Lat. The Land trends away Westerly from both these Places some hundreds of Leagues and though not on one Point of the Compass because of the small Points Bays and Bending in the Land yet the Winds that on more regular Shores keep their constant Course and blow in upon the Shore about two Points from the Sea do also here on the Guinea Coast blow on the Shore from the West Quarter and as the Land lies Pointing in on the Shore even from Cape Mount to Old Callabar which is above 400 Leagues and that with such constancy that the East part of that Coast is called the Leeward Coast and the West part the Wind-ward Coast And yet this is so contrary to the general Opinion of Seamen concerning the Course of the Winds that nothing but their own experience will convince them of the Truth of it for thus they generally reason Barbardoes is the Easter-most of the Carribe Islands therefore the rest are said to be to Leeward of it and so of any other Island as indeed it usually holds true because the Winds there are commonly at East but this Counter Wind on the Coast of Guinea astonishes most Seamen that have seen nothing like what they meet with here There are other Coasts where the Winds shift very little as on the Coast of Carraccos and the South side of the Bay of Mexico i. e. in the Bay of Compechy and all the Carribe Islands Indeed there may be sometimes some small flurts of a Westerly Wind on these Coasts but neither constant certain nor lasting And indeed this was the great stumbling Block that we met with in running from the Gallapagos Islands for the Island Cocos mentioned in my former Book Chap. 5. Pag. 111. But that part of Africa which lies between Cape Verd in 14 d. North and Cape Bayedore in 27. has commonly Northerly Winds or between the N. and N. E. very fresh gales therefore our Guinea Ships bound to Guinea strive to keep near that Shore and oft times make the Capes And being to the Southward of Cape Blanco which lyes in Lat. about 21. they are sometimes so troubled with the Sand which the Wind brings off Shore that they are scarce able to see one another Their Decks are all strewed with it and their Sails all red as if they were tann'd with the Sand that sticks to them it being of a reddish colour From Cape Verd to Cape St. Anns which is about 6 degrees North the Trade is between the E. and S. E. from Cape St. Anns to Cape Palmas in about 4 d. North the Trade is at S. W. from Cape Palmas to the Bite of Guinea which is at the bending of the Coast the Wind is at W. S. W. from this bending the Land begins to turn about to the South and from thence to Cape Lopos which is to the South of the Line the Trade is at S. S. W. as it is on all that Coast even to 30 degrees South This last Account I had from Mr. Canby who has made many Voyages to Guinea CHAP. III. Of the coasting Trade-Winds that shift The Coasts where the Winds shift Of the Winds between Gratia de Dios and Cape La Vela Of those on the Coast of Brazil At Panama About Natal And Cape Corientes And the Red-Sea From the Gulph of Persia to Cape Comorin Of the Monsoons in India Their Benefit for sailing from Place to Place Sea and Land Breezes serviceable for the same purpose By what helps long Voyages are made in an open Sea THE Coasts where the Winds do usually shift are some in the West Indies as that part of the Coast between Cape Gratia de Dios and Cape La Vela chiefly The Coast of Brazil the Bay of Panama in the South Seas and all the Coast of the East Indies even from the River Natal which is in the Lat. of 30 d. South on the East side of Africa beyond the Cape of good Hope to the North East Parts of China comprehending all the Bays between The Islands also have their Annual changes Of all these I shall treat in their order beginning first with that Coast which lyes between Cape Gratia de Dios and Cape La Vela And I the rather begin with this part first because this part of the West Indies is all that is subject to change neither is the change altogether so orderly or certain as the Monsoones in the East Indies or the shifting Winds on the Coast of Brazil The Common Trade-Wind on this Coast is between the N. E. and the East This Trade blows constantly from March till November but is often check'd with Tornadoes in the Months of May June July and August especially between the River of Darien and Costarica but to Wind-ward there is a more serene Air and a brisker Wind From October till March there are Westerly Winds not constant norviolent but blowing moderately sometimes 2 or 3 Days or a Week and then the Breez may blow again as long These Winds are most in December and January before and after these two Months the Trade-Wind is only check'd a Day or two near the full or change of the Moon and when the Westerly Winds blow longest and strongest on the Coast the Easterly Trade-Wind blows off at Sea as at other times Near Cape La Vela the true Trade blows within 8 or 10 Leagues off the Shore when the Westerly
Winds blow on the Coast except in a strong North which turns the Trade-Wind back and on the Costarica and between it and the River Darien the Westerly Winds as they are more frequent and lasting than towards Cape La Vela so also they blow farther off at Sea as sometimes as far as to 20 or 30 Leagues from the Shore Therefore Ships bound to Windward if they have far to go either take the opportunity of the Westerly Wind-Season or else go through the Gulph of Florida and stretch away to the North till they get into a variable Winds way and then run to the Eastward as far as they think convenient before they stretch to the Southward again All that are bound from the West Indies to Guinea must take this course if they sail from Jamaica because they must pass thro' the Gulph of Florida but from other Islands they may stretch away directly to the North and use the same method But if Ships have only a small way to Sail to Wind-ward they make use of the Sea and Land Breezes making no account of the time of the Year The Winds on the Coast of Brazil are from September till March at E. N. E. and from March till September again they are at South The Winds in the Bay of Panama are from September till March Easterly and from March till September again they are at S. and S. S. W. From the Cape of good Hope Eastwards as far as the River Natal which lies in 30d South Latitude and Cape Corientes in Lat. of 24 degrees South the Winds from May to October are constantly from the West to the North West within 30 Leagues of the Shore They blow hardest at North West When the Wind comes to the North West it is commonly stormy and tempestous Weather attended with much Rain and then the Weather is cold and chilly From October till March the Winds are Easterly from the E. N. E. to the E. S. E. you have then very fair Weather The E. N. E. Winds are pretty fresh but the Winds at E. S. E. are small and faint sometimes affording some drops of Rain From Cape Corientes to the Red-Sea from October till the middle of January the Winds are variable but most times Northerly and oft shifting round the Compass The strongest Winds are at North these are often very violent and stormy and accompanied with much Rain and thus it blows about the Island of Madagascar and the adjacent Islands These storms are commonly preceded by a great Sea out of the North. From January till May the Winds are at N. E. or N. N. E. fine fresh gales and sair Weather From May till October the Winds are Southerly in July August and September there are great Calms in the Bay of Pate and Melende and a strong Current setting into the Bay Therefore Ships that have occasion to pass this way in those three Months ought to keep at least 100 Leagues from the Coast to avoid being driven by the Current into the Bay for these Calms do sometimes last 6 Weeks yet off at Sea at the distance of 100 Leagues the Winds are fresh at South At the entrance into the Red-Sea near Cape Guardefuer there are commonly very hard gales and turbulent Weather even when the Calms are so great in the Bay of Melende and not above 10 or 12 Leagues at Sea from the said Cape there is also very fair Weather and pretty fresh Gales In the Red-Sea from May till October the Winds are strong at S. W. and the Current setting out strong so that there is no entring into that Sea in those Months except you keep close to the South Shore there you have Land-Winds and an eddy Current In the Months of September or October the Wind shuffles about to the North and at last settles at N. E. then comes fair Weather on this Coast and so continues till the Monsoon shifts which is in April or May then it first takes one flurry at North and from thence veers to the East and so about to the South and there it settles The Account of this Coast from the Cape of good Hope hither I had from Capt. Rogers And as this hither-most part of the East Indies even from the Cape of good Hope to the Red-Sea which Coast lies nearest N. E. and S. W. hath its shifting Seasons so the other Parts of India from the Gulph of Persia to Cape Comorin has its constant Annual change and from Comorin clear round the Bay of Bengal the change is no less and even from thence through the Streights of Malacca and Eastwards as far as Japan the shifting Trade-Winds do alternately succeed each other as duly as the Year comes about It cannot be supposed that the Trade Wind in all these Places should be exactly on one Point of the Compass For I have already shown that these Trade-Winds on any Coast do commonly blow slanting in on the Shore about 2 or 3 Points therefore in Bays where the Land lies on several Rombs the Winds must alter accordingly Though that Rule does not hold altogether true in Bays that are deep but is chiefly meant for a pretty streight Coast which lyes near alike allowing for Points of Land and small Coves which make no alteration But on the sides and in the bottom of large Bays such as the Bay of Bengall the Bay of Siam c. the Wind differs much on one side of the Bay from what it does on the other and both sides differ from the constant Trade on the open Coast yet all shift in the shifting Seasons which are April and September at one and the same time to their opposite Points I mean on the open Coast for in some Bays there is a little alteration from that general Rule These shifting Winds in the East Indies are called Monsoons one is called the East Monsoon the other the West Monsoon The East Monsoon sets in about September and blows till April then ceaseth and the West Monsoon takes place and blows till Septerber again And both the East and West Monsoons blow in their Seasons slanting in on the Coast as is before described The East Monsoon brings fair Weather the West brings Tornadoes and Rain For as I said before in the first Chap. of the General Trade-Wind at Sea when the Sun comes to the North of the Line then all Places North of the Equator within the Tropicks are troubled with Clouds and Rain but when the Sun is in Southern Signs then the Sky is clear And as most of the Trading Countries in the East Indies especially those on the main Continent do lye between the Line and the Tropick of Cancer So these Countries are all subject to the Changes and Seasons already described But the Islands lying under the Line and to the South between the Line and the Tropick of Capricorn have contrary Seasons to these Yet do they change at the self-same time The difference between the Monsoons on the
North of the Line and the Monsoons on the South of the Line is that in April when the West Monsoon sets in to the North of the Line the S. S. W. Winds sets in to the South of the Line and is called the S. S. W. Monsoon And in September when the East Monsoon sets in to the North of the Line the N. N. E. Wind blows in South Lat. and is called the N. N. E. Monsoon And whereas the West Monsoon is accompanied with Tornadoes and Rain in North Lat. the S. S. W. Monsoon which blows at the same time in South Lat. is accompanied with fair Weather And as the East Monsoon is attended with fair Weather in North Lat. the N. N. E. Monsoon which blows at the same time in South Lat. is attended with Tornadoes and very bad Weather And though these Winds do not shift exactly at one time in all Years yet Sept. and Apr. are always accounted the turning Months and do commonly participate of both sorts of Winds For these Monsoons do as constantly shift by turns as the Year comes about And by means of this change of Wind Ships have the benefit to sail from one part of India with one Wind and return with the contrary So that most of the Navigation in India depends on the Monsoons And Ships do constantly wait for these Changes and the Merchants fit out to any Place according as the Season of the Year draws on And wheresoever they go they certainly dispatch their business so as to return back again with the next or contrary Monsoon For here is no sailing to and from any Place but with the Monsoon One carries them out the other brings them back Neither do I know how it were possible for Merchants in these Parts to Trade by Sea from one Country to another were it not for these shifting Monsoons For as I have said before most of the Trading Kingdoms in India do lye between the Line and the Tropick of Cancer And the Land lies so to the North that Ships cannot go to the North of the Tropick and by that means get into a variable Winds way as they may and do in the West Indies when they are bound far to the Eastward Neither could it be any advantage to stand off to Sea as they may in the South Sea for that would be of little moment because they would then come so near the Line that they would be always lyable to Tornadoes and Calms And should they cross the Line and run to the Southward of it thinking that way to gain their Passage it is likely they might succeed no better there For that part of the Sea which lies to the Southward of the Line is open and free to the true Trade which seldom fails But indeed that VVind would carry them to the Southward quite beyond the Trade into a variable Winds-way But the Sea is not open there for Ships to pass so far to the Eastward as to gain their Ports For our East India Ships that are bound to Siam Tunqueen China c. cannot get thither but in the Season of the West Monsoon though they go directly from England and though after they are past the Cape they have the convenience to stretch to the Eastward as far as the Land will permit yet they cannot go so far as is convenient before they will be obliged to steer down within the Course of the Trade-Winds which would obstruct their Passage if they were as constant here as in other Places And therefore if these Anniversary Monsoons did not constantly succeed each other Ships could not pass but one way they might sail to the Westward but there they must lye up or be 3 or 4 Years in their return from a place which may be sailed in 6 Weeks yet I say that to Places near each other Ships may and do very often sail against the Monsoon and that with success For here are Sea and Land Breezes under the shore and in many Places good Anchoring by which means Ships may stop when they find the Current against them But Voyages of a great distance cannot be made only with Land and Sea-Winds without some other helps In the W. Indies we have these helps of Land-Winds and Sea-Breezes by which we sail from one place to another provided they are no great distance a sunder and perform our Voyages well enough but when we are to sail a great way to the Eastward against the Trade-Wind then we are forced as is said before either to pass thro' the Gulph of Florida if we are far to Leeward or else to pass between the Islands and so stretch away to the Northward till we are clear out of the Trade and so get our Longitude that way So in the South Seas also and on the Coasts of Guinea the Coast of Brazil and the Coast of Africa between the Cape of good Hope and the Red-Sea there are Sea and Land Breezes which may be made use of to sail against the Trade if the Voyages be short But when we are to sail a great way against the Trade-Wind we must not wholly depend on the Sea and Land Breezes for then we should be a long time in accomplishing such Voyages In such Cases we have recourse to other helps such as Providence has supplied these Seas with which seems to be wanting in the East Indies as for example in the South Seas on the Coast of Peru where the Southerly Winds blow constantly all the Year there Ships that are bound to the Southward stretch off to the Westward till they are out of the Coasting Trade-Wind and there meet with the true Trade at E. S. E. with which they sail as far as they please to the Southward and then steer in for their Port. So on the Coast of Mexico where the Coasting Trade is Westerly there they run off to Sea till they meet the true E. N. E. Trade and then stretch away to the Northward as far as their Port and Ships that come from the Philipines bound for the Coast of Mexico stretch away to the North as far as 40 degrees to get a Wind to bring them on the Coast. Thus also all Ships bound to the East Indies after they are past the Line in the Atlantick Ocean stretch away to the Southward beyond the Trade and then stand over to the Eastward towards the Cape so in returning home after they have crost the Line to the Northward they steer away North with the Wind at E. N. E. till they are to the Northward of the Trade-Wind and then direct their Course Easterly All Guinea Ships and West India Ships do the same in their returns And this is the Benefit of an open Sea But to return The Monsoones among the East India Islands that lye to the Southward of the Line as I said before are either at N. N. E. or S. S. W. These also keep time and shift as the Monsoones do to the North of
the Line in the Months of April and September but near the Line as a degree or two on each side the Winds are not so constant Indeed there they are so very uncertain that I cannot be particular so as to give any true Account of them Only this I know that Calms are very frequent there as also Tornadoes and sudden Gusts in which the Winds fly in a moment quite round the Compass CHAP. IV. Of Sea and Land-Breezes How Sea-Breezes differ from Common Trade-Winds The time and manner of their Rise And particularly at Jamaica Of the Land-Breezes The time and manner of their Rise As on the Isthmus of Darien and at Jamaica The places where these Winds blow strongest or slackest as at Gapes and Head Lands deep Bays Lagunes and Islands Seals-Skin Bladders used instead of Bark Loggs SEA-Breezes generally speaking are no other than the Common Trade-Wind of the Coasts on which they blow with this difference that whereas all Trade-Winds whether they are those that I call the general Trade-Winds at Sea or coasting Trade-Winds either constant or shifting do blow as well by Night as by Day with an equal briskness except when Tornadoes happen So contrarily Sea-Winds are only in the Day and cease in the Night and as all Trade-Winds blow constantly near to one Point of the Compass both where the constant Trade-Winds are or where they shift on the contrary these Sea-Winds do differ from them in this that in the Morning when they first spring up they blow commonly as the Trade-Winds on the Coast do at or near the same Point of the Compass but about Mid-Day they fly off 2 3 or 4 Points further from the Land and so blow almost right in on the Coast especially in fair Weather for then the Sea-Breezes are truest as for instance on the Coast of Angola the Land lies almost North and South there the Trade-Wind is from the S. S. W. to the S. W. the true Sea Breezes near the shore are at W. by S. or W. S. W. and so of any other Coast. These Sea-Breezes do commonly rise in the Morning about Nine a Clock sometimes sooner sometimes later they first approach the shore so gently as if they were afraid to come near it and oft-times they make some faint breathings and as if not willing to offend they make a halt and seem ready to retire I have waited many a time both ashore to receive the pleasure and at Sea to take the benefit of it It comes in a fine small black Curle upon the Water whenas all the Sea between it and the shore not yet reach'd by it is as smooth and even as Glass in Comparison in half an Hour's time after it has reached the shore it fans pretty briskly and so increaseth gradually till 12 a Clock then it is commonly strongest and lasts so till 2 or 3 a very brisk gale about 12 at Noon it also veres off to Sea 2 or 3 Points or more in very fair Weather After 3 a Clock it begins to dye away again and gradually withdraws its force till all is spent and about 5 a Clock sooner or later according as the Weather is it is lull'd asleep and comes no more till the next Morning These Winds are as constantly expected as the day in their proper Latitudes and seldom fail but in the wet Season On all Coasts of the main whether in the East or West Indies or Guinea they rise in the Morning and withdraw towards the Evening yet Capes and Head Lands have the greatest benefit of them where they are highest rise earlier and blow later Bays contrarily have the disadvantage for there they blow but faintly at best and their continuance is but short Islands that lye nearest East and West have the benefit of these Winds on both sides equally for if the Wind is at S. W. or S. W. by S. on the South side of any Island then on the North side it would be at N. W. or N. W. by N. i. e. in fair Weather but if turbulent Weather it would be E. S. E. on the Southside and E. N. E. on the other But this true Sea-Breeze does not veer so far out except only near the shore as about 3 or 4. Leagues distant for farther than that you will find only the right Coasting Trade-Wind This I have experienced in several Parts of the World particularly at Jamaica about which I have made many Voyages both on the North and the South side where I have experienced the Sea-Breezes very much to differ for on the South side I have found the true Sea-Wind after 12 a Clock and in very fair Weather at S. or S. S. E. though it sprung up in the Morning at E. S. E. or S. E. And on the North side I have found the Sea-Breez at N. or N. N. E. though it rose in the Morning at E. N. E. but whether there may be the like difference about smaller Islands as at Barbadoes c. I cannot determine tho' I am apt to believe there is not So much for the Sea-Winds next of the Land-Breezes Land-Breezes are as remarkable as any Winds that I have yet treated of they are quite contrary to the Sea-Breezes for those blow right from the shore but the Sea-Breez right in upon the shore And as the Sea-Breezes do blow in the Day and rest in the Night so on the contrary these do blow in the Night and rest in the Day and so they do alternately succeed each other For when the Sea-Breezes have performed their Offices of the Day by breathing on their respective Coasts they in the Evening do either withdraw from the Coast or lye down to rest Then the Land-Winds whose Office it is to breathe in the Night moved by the same order of Divine Impulse do rouze out of their private recesses and gently fan the Air till the next Morning and then their task ends and they leave the Stage There can be no proper time set when they do begin in the Evening or when they retire in the Morning for they do not keep to an hour but they commonly spring up between 6 and 12 in the Evening and last till 6 8 or 10 in the Morning They both come and go away again earlier or later according to the Weather the Season of the Year or some accidental Cause from the Land For on some Coasts they do rise earlier blow fresher and remain later than on other Coasts as I shall shew hereafter They are called Land-Winds because they blow off shore contrary to the Sea-Breez which way soever the Coast lies Yet I would not so be understood as if these Winds are only found to breathe near the shores of any Land and not in the Inland Parts of such Countries remote from the Sea for in my Travells I have found them in the very heart of the Countries that I have passed through as particularly on the Isthmus of Darien and the Island of Jamaica Both
which places I have travelled over from Sea to Sea yet because these are but small Tracts of Land in comparison with the two main Bodies of Land of Mexico and Peru and those vast Regions in Asia and Africa lying within the Tropicks I cannot determine whether the Land-Winds are there as I have found them in my small Travels therefore I shall only confine this particular Discourse to these and other Places within my own Observations I shall begin first with the Isthmus of Darien there I have found the Land-Winds in the middle of the Country blowing all Night and till 10 or 11 a Clock in the Morning before I could perceive the Sea-Breeze to arise and that not discernable many times but by the flying of the Clouds especially if I was in a Valley and it was in Vallies that I did chiefly perceive the Land-Winds which blew in some places one way in others contrary or side ways to that according as the Vallies lay pend up between the Mountains and that without any respect to either the North or the South Seas but indeed near either side of the Land they always bent their course towards the nearest Sea unless there was any Hill between them and the Sea and then they took their Course along in the Vallies but from both shores as well from the North as the South they blow right forth into the Sea In the Island of Jamaica these Land-Winds are in the middle of the Country also I have found them so as I travelled from one side of the Island to the other having lain 2 Nights by the way as I had before observed them when I liv'd at 16 Miles Walk where I continued about 6 Months but there and in other Islands the Land-Winds do blow towards the nearest shores and so from thence off to Sea whether the shore's lye East West North or South These Winds blow off to Sea a greater or less distance according as the Coast lies more or less exposed to the Sea-Winds For in some Places we find them brisk 3 or 4 Leagues off shore in other Places not so many Miles and in some Places they scarce peep without the Rocks or if they do sometimes in very fair Weather make a sally out a Mile or 2 they are not lasting but suddenly vanish away though yet there are every Night as fresh Land-Winds ashore at those Places as in any other part of the World Places most remarkable for the fewest or faintest Land-Winds are those that lye most open to the Common Trade-Winds as the East ends of any Islands where the Trade-Winds do blow in upon the Shore or the Head-Lands on Islands or Continents that are open to the Sea-Breez especially where the Trade-Wind blows down side-ways by the Coast for there such Head-Lands as stretch farthest out to Sea are most exposed to Winds from the Sea and have the less benefit of the Land-Breezes I shall give a few Instances of either And first of all begin with the N. E. and S. E. Points of the Island of Jamaica These Points are at the East end of the Island one is at the very Extreme of the North side towards the East the other on the South Extreme towards the same Point at these two Places we seldom light of a Land-Wind nor very often at the end of the Island between them except near the shore For that Reason the Sloop-men of Jamaica that Trade round the Island are commonly put to their Trumps when they come there in their Voyages For if they meet no Land-Wind they are obliged to beat about by turning to wind-ward against the Sea-Breez in the Day time they then curse these Points of Land and are foolishly apt to believe that some Daemon haunts there And if they are 2 or 3 Days in beating about as sometimes they are when they return to Port Royal they will talk as much of their Fatigues as if they had been beating a Month to double the Cape of good Hope though indeed the Men are brisk enough and manage their sloops very well which also are generally very good Boats to sail on a Wind. I think they are the best small Trading-Boats in the King's Dominions Point Pedro on the South-side of the Island is another very bad Point to double if a Ship come from the West-end of the Island This Point runs out far into the Sea and is not only destitute of the Common Land-Winds But if there is any Current setting to Leeward here the Sloop-men meet it Therefore they are many times longer beating about it then about the two former Points of the South East and the North East and not without bestowing some Curses upon it Nay some Captains of Privateers when they have been beating about it have stood close in to the Point and fired their Guns to kill the old Daemon that they say inhabits there to disturb poor Seamen I have related these odd Passages to shew how ignorant Men are that cannot see the Reason of it And because I am not willing to leave my Reader in the dark I shall give a few Instances more on this subject The North side of Jucatan at the entrance into the Bay of Campeachy gives us another Instance of bad Land-Winds and commonly where the Land-Winds are scanty the Sea-Breezes are but indifferent neither This will partly appear by what I have observed of them on this Coast between Cape Catoach and Cape Condeseado at the entrance of the Bay of Campeachey which two places are about Eighty Leagues distant for there the Land trends East and West It is a streight Coast and lies all of it equally exposed to the Trade-VVind which is commonly there at E. N. E. To the W. of these Places the Sea and Land-VVinds do as duly succeed each other as on any other Coast but here they are each of them of a Bastard kind for the Sea-Breezes are at N. E. by E. which is no better than a Coast Trade-VVind and the Land-VVind is at E. S. E. or S. E. by E. whereas if the VVinds were as true there as on other Coasts the Sea-Breez would be at N. N. E. sometimes at N. and the Land-VVinds would be at S. S. E. and S. as they are indeed close under the shore which if they do at any time come off from they are very faint The Land on this Coast is low and even and the Land-VVinds ashore are pretty brisk The Capes on the Peruvian Coast in the South Seas will more fully make it appear that head-Head-Lands do seldom afford any Land-VVinds I shall only Instance in Cape Passao in Lat. 8 Minutes South Cape St. Laurence in Lat. 1 d. South and Cape Blanco in 3 d. South I have pass'd by them all several times and at different Seasons yet did never find any Land-winds there though between these Places there are very good Land-winds Therefore Ships that sail to the Southward against the Breez must beat it about by hard Labour
Where together with the Harmatans he gives an Account also of all the Winds on that Coast. Mr. Greenhill's Letter SIR I Have been very ill since my return Home with the Gout so that I have not been capable of answering your Expectation But being a little beâ—… recovered I shall make as good a return to your Enquâ—… of the Harmatans on the Coast of Guinea as 〈◊〉 Circumstances will permit The usual Time of 〈◊〉 blowing is between the latter part of December 〈◊〉 the beginning of February before and 〈◊〉 Seasons they never exceed They 〈◊〉 of 〈◊〉 cold sharp and piercing a Nature that the 〈◊〉 of the Floors of our Chambers and the 〈◊〉 Decks of our Ships as far as they are aboâ—… 〈◊〉 will open so wide as that with facility you may 〈◊〉 a Caulking Iron a considerable way into thâ—… 〈◊〉 which condition they continue so long as the 〈◊〉 tan blows which is sometimes two or three 〈◊〉 very rarely five Days which is the very 〈◊〉 observed or heard of and when they are 〈◊〉 close again and are as tight as if it never 〈◊〉 The Natives themselves and all Person 〈◊〉 those parts during that short Season to prevent their pernicious Effects are obliged to confine themselves within Doors where they endeavour their own security by rendring their Habitations as close and impenetrable as possible Neither will they once stir abroad unless induced thereto by a more than ordinary Occasion It is as destructive to the Cattle also whose safe Guard consists in their Proprietors Care who against this Season ought to provide some such like place for them Otherwise they must expect but a pittiful Account when the Season is over for it most certainly destroys them and that in a very short time This I accidentally experimented by exposing a couple of Goats to the Asperity thereof which in four hours space or thereabouts were depriv'd of Life Nay we our selves unless assisted by the like Conveniency and the benefit of some sweet Oyls to correct the Air cannot fetch our Breath so freely as at other times but are almost suffocated with too frequent and Acid Respirations They generally blow between the E. and E. N. E. to the Northward of which they never exceed being the most settled and steddy but fresh Gale I ever observ'd coming without Thunder Lightning or Rain but close gloomy Weather the Sun not shining all the time And when they expire the Trade-wind which constantly blows on that Coast at W. S. W. and S. W. returns with the accustomary seasonableness of Weather The Coast of Africa from Cape Palmas to Cape Formosa lies E. and E. by N. and near those Points the Land Breezes blow on that Coast which commonly begin about seven in the Evening and continue all Night till near that time the next Morning During which interval we are troubled with stinking Fogs and Mists off Shore which by return of the Sea-Breezes upon the opposite Points are all driven away and we have the benefit of them in a curious fresh Gale till obout 5 in the Afternoon And here let me Note it for a general Observation That in these and all other Places within the Tropicks as far as ever I took notice the Wind is drawn by the Land For if an Island or head-Head-Land were inclining to a circular Form the Sea and Land-Breezes fall in Diametrically opposite to that part where you are So that if you are on the South side the Sea-Breez shall be at South and the Land-Breez when it comes in its Season at North. In getting on the Coast we endeavour to fall in with Cape Mount or Cape Miserada which is about 18 Leagues to the E. S. Eastward thereof and after that we double Cape Palmas whence as asoresaid the Land trends away E. by N. the Current near the shore sets upon that Point down into the Bite But in getting off we as much attempt if possible to lay hold of St. Thomas and thence to run to the Southward of the Line perhaps 3 or 4 Degrees for the further Southerly we go the stronger we find the Gales and more beneficial for getting off the African Coast but those who keep to the Northward thereof generally meet with more Calms and consequently longer Voyages ensue In or about those Latitudes we continue till we are got between 25 and 30 Degrees to the Westward of Cape Lopez de Gonsalvo and then we cross again to go either for England or the West Indies But by the way let me observe to you that when once we are to the West-ward of the 〈◊〉 Cape and in South Latitude the Current sets â—…therly and the Wind to 20 Degrees of Latitude 〈◊〉 E. S. E. as to the like number of Degrees on the North side of the Line it blows at 〈◊〉 Neither did I ever observe any Mutation of the 〈◊〉 unless in the Tornado-Season when during their blowing they commonly set to Wind-ward tho' perhaps the Moon upon Full and Change may have the like influence there as in other Places but I never took any particular notice thereof The said Tornadoes usually come in the beginning of Apr. and seldom relinquish the Gold Coast till July commences and with frequent visits make us sensible of their Qualities We have sometimes three or four in a day but then their continuance is but short perhaps not above two hours and the strength or fury it may be about a quarter or half an Hour but accompanied with prodigious Thunder Lightning and Rain and the violence of the Wind so extraordinary as that it has sometimes rolled up the Lead wherewith the Houses are cover'd as close and compactly as possible it could be done by the Art of Man The Name implys a variety of Winds But the strength of them is generally at S. E. and by Ships that are bound off the Coast they are made use of to get to Windward I shall conclude with that most worthy Observation of the Season wherein the Rains begin which on the Gold Coast is about the 10th of April And this may be generally remarked from 15 d. N. to 15 d. South Latitude that they follow the Sun within 5 or 6 d. And so proceed with him till he has touched the Tropick and returns to the like Station again This I shall illustrate by the following Example Viz. Cape Corso Castle lies in 4 d. 55 North. About the 10th of April the Sun has near 12 degrees N. Declination At that time the Rains begin and continue with the Inhabitants of that Place until he has performed his Course to the greatest obliquity from off the Equator and returned to the like Position South The same I suppose may be observed and understood of other places within the Tropicks The Variation of which in the Year 1680. I made frequent Observations was 2 d. 14 m. Westerly And it generally flows at the aforesaid place S. S. E. and N. N. W. upon the Full and Change The Water
my Course for Jamaica and found the N. E. Corner to lye in Lat. 18 d. North and in Longi West from Tobago 13 d. The Meridian distance from Tobago is 749 Miles VVest In our passage we saw no Land or Island till we made the N. E. end of Jamaica which lyeth in Longi VVest from the Meridian of Lundy 64 d. 10 m. and VVest from the City of Loango 82 d. 18 m. I shall only add that I am of Opinion that the Gallopagos Islands do lye a great deal further to the VVestward than our Hydrographers do place them according as Mr. Dampier hints p. 100 of his Voyage round the World I am Portbury Octob. 20. 1698. SIR Your most humble Servant John Covant Part of a second Letter from Captain Covant dated from Bristol Decemb. 10. 1697. LETTER II. SIR YOurs of the 6th Instant came to my Hands with the enclosed Queries which I shall endeavour to answer in part as far as my memory will assist me being now from home and at a distance from my Journals c. 1. The Common Trade-Winds on the Coast of Angola blow from the S. VV. to South till about 12 d. Long. from the Meridian of the Isle of Lundy 2. I have found them always in the same Quarter and not subject to shift in all the time I have used this Coast except that at a small distance off the shore they are sometimes a Point more to the VVestward 3. The Dry Season on this Coast I observed to be from the latter end of April to September tho' sometimes intermix'd with some pleasant showers of Rain I cannot be so punctual as to the time of the Wet Seasons 4. The true Sea-Breez I have commonly found here to be from W. S. W. to VV. by S. if it be fair Weather and the Land Breez is at E. by N. But if a Tornado happens it causes the Winds to shift all round the Compass and at last it settles at S. VV. which is the former true Trade Wind. I am yours John Covant CHAP. VI. Of Storms Storms less frequent but more fierce between the Tropicks Presages of their coming Of Norths the Times and Places where they blow Signs of their approach N. Banks A Chocolatta North. A North beneficial to Ships going from Campeachy to Jamaica A very uncommon way of wearing a Ship in a North. Of Souths the Times and Places where they Blow A Description of a South at Jamaica and at the Bay of Campeachy Much Fish kill'd by that Storm Of Hurricanes A Description of a terrible one at Antegoe where abundance of Fish and Sea Fowles were destroyed by it The difference between North Banks and the Clouds before an Hurricane the latter adorned with radiant Colours Tuffoons in the East-Indies the same with Hurricanes in the West Of Monsoons in the East-Indies A Storm called by the Portuguese the Elephanta which is the violentest Monsoon of that Season STorms within the Tropicks are generally known to us by some Name or other to distinguish them from other common Winds and though Storms are not so frequent there as they are in Latitudes nearer the Poles yet are they nevertheless expected yearly in their proper Months and when they do come they blow exceeding fierce though indeed some years they do not come at all or at least do not blow with that fierceness as at other times And as these Winds are commonly very fierce so are they but of a short continuance in comparison with Storms that we meet with in higher Latitudes In the West Indies there are three sorts viz. Norths Souths and Hurricanes In the East-Indies there are only two sorts viz. Monsoones and Tuffoones All these sorts of violent Storms except the Norths are expected near one time of the year and this is taken notice of by those that have been in any of them that they give certain Presages of their being at hand several hours before they come Norths are violent Winds that frequently blow in the Bay of Mexico from October till March They are chiefly expected near the full or change of the Moon all that time of the year but they are most violent in December and January These Winds are not confined to the Bay of Mexico only but there they are most frequent and rage with the greatest Violence They blow on the North side of Cuba very fierce too and in the Gulph of Florida as also about Hispaniola Jamaica c. and in the Channel between Jamaica and Portabel and in all the West Indian Sea between the Islands and the Main as high as the Island Trinidado But from Jamaica Eastward except on the North side of the Island Hispaniola they blow no harder than a pretty brisk Sea Wind. They are here at W. N. W. or N. W. though in the Bay of Mexico they blow strongest at N. N. W. and this is the Season of Westerly Winds in these East parts of the West-Indies as I have before noted in the third Chapter of this Discourse I shall be most particular of them that blow in the Bay of Mexico and what Signs they give us before hand Commonly before a North the Weather is vety serene and fair the Sky clear and but little Wind and that too veering from its proper Point or the common Trade Wind of the Coast and breathing gently at S. at S. W. and West a Day or two before the North comes The Sea also gives notice of a Storm by an extraordinary and long Ebb. For a Day or two before a North there will be hardly any discernable Flood but a constant ebbing of the Sea And the Sea Fowls also before a Storm do commonly hover over the Land which they do not at other times use to do in such great flights and numbers All these Signs concurring may give any Man notice of an approaching Storm but the greatest and most remarkable Sign of a North is a very black Cloud in the N. W. rising above the Horizon to about 10 or 12 degrees the upper edge of the Cloud appears very even and smooth and when once the upper part of the Cloud is 6 8 10 or 12 degrees high there it remains in that even form parallel to the Horizon without any motion and this sometimes 2 or 3 Days before the Storm comes At other times not above 12 or 14 hours but never less This Cloud lying so near the Horizon is not seen but in the Mornings or Evenings at least it does not appear so black as then this is called by English Seamen a North Bank and when ever we see such a Cloud in that part of the World and in the Months before mentioned we certainly provide for a Storm and though sometimes it may happen that such a Cloud may appear several Mornings and Evenings and we may not feel the effects of it or but very little yet we always provide against it for a North never comes without such a foreboding Cloud But if the VVinds
Moon Another thing that we must also take notice of is that both Places are North of the Equator though not exactly in one Latitude But of these Tuffoons I shall say no more now having described them particularly in my Voyage to Tonquin Chap. II. Pag. 36. The Monsoons in the East Indies are the next to be treated of by which I do not mean the Coasting Trade-wind so called which I have already described in Page 21. of this Discourse for tho' Monsoon is a general word for the Wind there distinguished by East or West according to the Points from whence they blow yet it sometimes also signifies a Storm as I now take it And it is easie to be understood when it is used in reference to the Trade-wind or when spoken of a Storm for if applyed to a Storm 't is express'd by some Epethite going before As Violent Terrible c. without any distinction of East or West which is commonly used in speaking of the Trade-Wind These Monsoons or Storms on the Coast of Coromandel are expected either about April or September which are accounted the two shifting Months For in these two Months the Winds begin to shift and turn from that Point on which they have blown several Months before to the contrary Points of the Compass as from East to West or the contrary but commonly this shift is attended with a turbulent Sky which ends in a violent storm of Wind or excessive Rains or both And this is called also the breaking up of the Monsoon It was in one of these that I past from Nicobar Island to Sumatra men tioned in my Voyage round the World Chap. XVIII Page 496. This was the April Monsoon The Septemb. Monsoons are generally more violenr than these last yet by the Account I have lately had from Fort St. George they have suffered very much by one of the April Monsoons if it may be so called for it came before its usual time even before it could be expected As for the September Monsoons though the time of the Year is so well known and the warnings of their approach almost certain yet our East India Merchants have had very considerable losses there for the stress of the Winds blows right in upon the shore and often hurries the ships from their Anchors and tosses them in a moment on the sandy Bay Indeed the want of a secure Place to Ride in is the greatest Inconvenience of that Factory a Place doubtless designed by the English from its Original to be the Center of the Trade of these Parts For all our Factories and the Trade in general East from Cape Comorin are now subordinate to this The Dutch had once a place of Consequence called Pallacat on this Coast about 20 Leagues to the North of it but they withdrew most of their Families and Effects from thence in the Year 1691 mentioned in my Voyage round the World Chap. XX. Page 522. And it is very probable that these raging Winds might be one cause of this their deserting it whatever was the Motive of settling here for they have secure Harbours and Roads enough in India which we to our great disadvantage very much want But to return to the Monsoons These as I have told you blow fiercest in September and as I have been informed blow on several Points of the Compass The stormy Monsoons on the Mallabar Coast differ from these on the Coast of Coromandel in that they are more common and last even from April to September which is as long as the common West Monsoon lasts though not so frequent and lasting in the beginning of the Monsoon as towards the latter end The Months of July and August afford very bad Weather for then there is hardly any intermission but a continued troubled Sky full of black Clouds which pour down excessive Rains and often very fierce Winds But towards the breaking up of the Monsoon they have one very terrible Storm called by the Portuguese the Eliphanta which concludes the bad Weather For after that they put to Sea without fear of any more Storms that Season These violent Winds blow directly in upon the shore and they damn up the Harbours on this Coast especially that of Goa so that no Ships can go in or come out then but after the violent Winds are past the Channel opens again and so continues till the next Season This Relation I had from a very ingenious Gentleman who was at Goa during the bad Weather I shall only take notice that these Storms are also at the same time of the Year when the Hurricanes Souths are in the VVest Indies and the Tuffoons on the Coasts of China Tunqueen Cochinchina and Cambodia in the Eastern Parts of the East Indies and that all these places are to the North of the Equator CHAP. VII Of the Seasons of the Year The Wet and Dry Seasons on the North side of the Equator and on the South of it Places famous for much dry Weather as part of Peru and Africa A Comparison between those Coasts Of raining Coasts as Guinea Why Guinea more subject to Rains than the opposite Coast of Brazil The time of Sugar-making Of the Seasons at Suranam Bays more subject to Rain than head-Head-Lands Several instances of this as at Campeachy Panama Tunqueen Bengala c. Mountains more subject to Rains than Low Lands An instance of this at Jamaica The Isle of Pines near Cuba a wet Place So is also Gorgonia in the South Seas The manner how Tornadoes arise AS Summer and Winter are the two most different Seasons in our Climate so the Dry and the Wet are within the torrid Zone and are always opposite to each other They are often called by Europians VVinter and Summer but more generally Dry and VVet These Seasons on each side of the Equator are as different as the Seasons of Summer and Winter are in temperate Climates or near each Pole For as 't is Summer near the North Pole when 't is Winter near the South Pole and the contrary so when 't is fait and dry Weather North of the Equator 't is blustering and rainy Weather South of it and the contrary except within a few degrees of the Line and that in some places only There is also this difference between the Torrid and Temperate Zones either North or South of the Equator that when it is fair and dry Weather in the one it is Winter in the other and when it is wet in the one it is Summer in the other I speak now of Places lying on the same side of the Equator For as the Sun when it passes the Equinox and draws towards either of the Tropicks begins to warm their respective Poles and by how much the nearer he approaches by so much is the Air without the Tropicks clear dry and hot On the contrary within the Torrid Zone though on the same side of the Line the farther the Sun is off the dryer is the Weather And
as the Sun comes nearer the sky grows more cloudy and the Weather more moist for the Rains follow the Sun and begin on either side of the Equator within a little while after the Sun has crost the Equinox and so continue till after his return back again The wet Season on the North side of the Equator in the torrid Zone begins in April or May and so continues till September or October The dry Weather comes in November or December and continues till April or May. In South Latitudes the Weather changes at the same times but with this difference that the dry Months in South Latitude are wet Months in North Latitude and the contrary as I have said before Yet neither doe the wet or dry Seasons set in or go out exactly at one time in all Years neither are all places subject to wet or dry VVeather alike For in some places it rains less than in others and consequently there is more dry VVeather But generally Places that lye under the Line or near it have their greatest Rains in March and September Head-Lands or Coasts that lye most exposed to the Trade-winds have commonly the best share of dry Weather On the contrary deep Bays or bendings of the Land especially such as lye near the Line are most subject to Rains Yet even among Bays or Bendings there is a great deal of difference in the Weather as to dry or wet for the VVeather as well as the Winds seem to be much influenced by accidental Causes and those Causes themselves whatever they are seem to be subject to great variation But to proceed with Matter of Fact I shall begin with the dryest Coasts and first with that of Peru from 3 d. South to 30 d. South There it never Rains neither at Sea for a good distance off shore as for 250 or 300 Leagues no nor on the shore for a considerable way within Land though exactly how far I know not yet there are small Mists sometimes in a Morning for two or three Hours but seldom continuing after 10 a Clock and there are Dews also in the Night This Coast lyes N. and S. it has the Sea open to the VVest and a chain of very high Mountains running a long shore on the East the VVinds constantly Southerly as I said before in the second Chapter of VVinds. In which Head I have made a Comparison as well of the VVinds on the Coast of Africa in the same Latitude as of the lying of the Coasts Only there is this difference that the coasting Trade-winds on the American side do blow further from the Land than those on the African side VVhich difference may probably arise from the disproportion of the Mountains that are in the two Continents for 't is known that the Andes in America are some of the highest Mountains in the VVorld but whether there are any on the Continent of Africa in those Latitudes so high I know not I have not heard of any at least none such are visible to Seamen I come now to speak of the Weather on the African Coast which though 't is not so dry as the Coast of Peru yet is it the next to it The Weather there is very dry from March till October which is the dry Season The rainy Season which is from October till March is moderate without that excess that is in most other Places in those Latitudes so that the wettest Season can only be called so from some gentle showers of Rain There are some Tornadoes but not so many as are in any other Places both of the East or West Indies the Peruvian Coast excepted And if the height of the Andes are the cause that the true East Breez does not take place in the Pacifick Sea within 200 Leagues distance from the shore when yet the Trade blows within 40 Leagues of the African Coast that Coast may perphaps be supposed to want such high Mountains And if those American Mountains do stop the VVinds from their Career why may they not as well break the Clouds before they reach near the shore and be the cause of the dry VVeather there And seeing both Coasts do lye alike and the VVind is alike why should not the VVeather be the same were it not for the disproportion between the Mountains of these Coasts For the East side of those Mountains are supplied with Rain enough as may be known by the great Rivers that disembogue from thence into the Atlantick Sea whereas the Rivers on the South Sea-Coast are but very few and small some of which do wholly dry away for a good part of the Year But yet they constantly break-out again in their Seasons when the Rains in the Country do come which always fall on VVest side of those Mountains and this is about February As I have spoken before of dry Coasts so now I shall speak of rainy ones I shall begin with the Coast of Guinea from Cape Lopos which lies one degree South taking in the Bite or Bending of the Land and all the Coast VVest from thence as far as Cape Palmas This is a very wet Coast subject to violent Tornadoes and excessive Rains especially in July and August In those Months there is scarce any fait Day This Coast lies all of it very near the Equator and no where above 6 or 7 degrees distance so that from its nearness to the Equator only we might probably conjecture that it is a rainy Coast for most places lying near the Line are very subject to Rains yet some more than others and Guinea may be reckoned among the wettest Places in the World There may be Places where the Rains continue longer but none are more violent while they last And as its nearness to the Line may be a great cause of its moisture so by its situation also one would guess that it should be subject to a great deal of Rain because there is a great Bite or Bending in of the Land a little to the North of the Line and from thence the Land stretcheth West parallel with the Line And these Circumstances singly taken according to my observations do seldom fail but more especially where they both meet Yet there may be other causes that may hinder those Effects or at least serve to allay the violence of them as they do on some other Coasts I shall only instance in the opposite Coast of America between the North Cape which lies North of the Equator and Cape Blanco on Brazil in South Latitude Now this Land lyes much after the Form of the Coast of Guinea with this difference that one Coast lies in South Lat. the other lies North of the Equator both of these Promontories lay paralel with the Equator there 's not much difference in their distance from it but that which makes the difference is that one juts out Westward the other Eastward and so one is the very Westermost Land of the Continent of Africa the other is
this has commonly been nigh the shore and we have seen thick Clouds over the Land and much Thunder and Lightning and to our appearance there was more Rain there than we had and probably out farther off at Sea there might be still less for it was commonly pretty clear that way CHAP. VIII Of Tides and Currents The difference between Tides and Currents No place in the Ocean without Tides Where the Tides are greatest and where smallest Of the Tides in the Harbour and Lagunes of Trist in the Bay of Campeachy Of those between the Capes of Virginia The Tides in the Gulph of St. Michael and the River of Guiaquil in the South Sea A mistaken Opinion of a Subterranean Communication between the North and South Seas under the Isthmus of Darien Of the Tides at the Gallapagos Islands at Guam one of the Ladrones About Panama In the Gulph of Dulce and Necoya River on the Coast of Peru in the West Indies and at Tonqueen where and at New Holland they are very irregular A guess at the Reason of so great an irregularity Of the Tides between the Cape of Good Hope and the Red Sea Of Currents They are influenced by the Trade-Wind Instances of them at Berbadoes c. at Cape La Vela and Gratia de Dios. Cape Roman Isle Trinidado Surinam Cape Blanco between Africa and Brazil Of Counter Currents Of Currents in the Bay of Campeachy and of Mexico in the Gulph of Florida Of the Cacuses No strange thing for the surface of the Water to run Counter to its lower Parts Of the Currents on the Coast of Angola Eastward of the Cape of Good Hope On the Coast of India North of the Line And in the South Sea HAving treated of the Winds and Seasons of the Year in the torrid Zone I now come to speak of the Tides and Currents there And by the way Note That By Tides I mean Flowings and Ebbings of the Sea on or off from any Coast. Which property of the Sea seems to be Universal though not regularly alike on all Coasts neither as to Time nor the height of the Water By Currents I mean another Motion of the Sea which is different from Tides in several Respects both as to its Duration and also as to its Course Tides may be compar'd to the Sea Land-Breezes in respect to their keeping near the shore though indeed they alternately flow and ebb twice in 24 Hours Contrarily the Sea-Breezes blow on the shore by Day and the Land-Winds off from it in the Night yet they keep this Course as duly in a manner as the Tides do Neither are the Tides nor those Breezes far from the Land Currents may be compar'd to the Coasting Trade-Winds as keeping at some farther distance from the shore as the Trade-winds do and 't is probable they are much influenced by them 'T is a general belief especially among Seamen That the Tides are governed by the Moon That their Increase and Decrease as well as their diurnal Motions are influenced by that Planet though sometimes accidental Causes in the Winds may hinder the true regularity thereof We are taught as the first Rudiments of Navigation to shift our Tides i. e. to know the time of full Sea in any Place which indeed is very necessary to be known by all English Sailers because the Tides are more regular in our Channel than in other parts of the World But my subject being to speak of the Tides within or near the Tropick I leave those in places nearer England to be discoursed on by Coasters who are the only knowing Men in this Mystery They having by experience gained more knowledge in it than others and that is always the best Master I have not been on any Coast in the World but where the Tides have ebb'd and flow'd either more or less and this I have commonly observed that the greatest Indraughts of Rivers or Lagunes have commonly the strongest Tides Contrarily such Coasts as are least supplied with Rivers or Lakes have the weakest Tides at least they are not so perceptible Where there are great Indraughts either of Rivers or Lagunes and those Rivers or Lagunes are wide though the Tide runs very strong into the Mouths of such Rivers or Lagunes yet it does not flow so high as in such Places where the Rivers or Lakes are bounded in a narrow Room though the Tides do run of an equal strength at the Mouths or Entrances of either Neither do the Tides flow so much on or about Islands remote from the Main Land as they do on the Coasts of it I shall first give some Instances of these general Observations and then proceed to Particulars The Places that I shall mention shall be such as I have been in my self and where I have made the Observations before-mentioned I shall begin with the Lagune of Trist in the Bay of Campeachy This Place is very remarkable in that it has two Mouths of a considerable bigness the one is about a Mile and half Wide and about two Mile through before you come to a Lagune which is seven or eight Leagues long and three wide The other Mouth is 7 Leagues from it and is about 2 Miles and half or 3 Miles wide and about 2 Miles long before it opens into the Lagune Besides farther within Land there are 3 or 4 more Lagunes less than the former The Tides that flow or ebb in all the Lagunes pass in or out at the two Mouths before-mentioned which makes them run very swift insomuch that the Spaniards have named that Great Lagune Laguna Termina or the Lake of Tides because the Tides are so very strong in those two Mouths Yet though the Tides do run so swift at the Mouths of the Lagune they do not rise in height proportionable to that swiftness for the greatest Tides here do not rise and fall above 6 or 7 Foot except forced by extraordinary Causes as Storms or the like Of which I have spoken before I could also instance in the Channel between the 2 Capes of Virginia where the Tides do run very swift yet the Floods and Ebbs are not proportionable to the swiftness of the Tide between the Capes There are not indeed such Lagunes as at Trist in the Bay of Campeachy but there are many wide Rivers and abundance of smaller Creeks Besides in some places there is low Land which is over-flown by the Tides so that all the Water that runs in with such swiftness within the Capes is insensibly swallowed up there These are instances of strong Tides occasioned by great Indraughts yet where there is but little rising and falling of the Water in comparison with the strength of the Tides at the Mouths of those Indraughts I shall next give some Instances of the great Indraughts where the Tides flow and ebb much more more than in the former Places though the Tide at the Mouths of those Indraughts does not run swifter than in those Places before-mentioned I shall
of the Trade Winds I shall instance Barbadoes for one and all the Carribbes may as well be included The greater Islands as Hispaniola Jamaica and Cuba have only some particular Capes or Head-Lands exposed to Currents as Cape Tiberoon on Hispaniola Point Pedro and the N. E. Point of Jamaica Cape de Cruz Cape Corientes and Cape Antonios on Cuba But of all the Islands in the West Indies there are none more sensible of Currents than Corrisao Aruba nor any Capes on the Continent so remarkable for Currents as Cape Roman which shoots out against the Sea betweenthose two Places as also Cape Coquibaco and Cape La Vela to Leeward all three on the same Head-Land which shoots forth far without any other Land on the Coast. There is no such Head-Land till you come to Cape Gratia de Dios which is about 260 Leagues to Leeward Indeed to the East-ward there is Land that trends out almost so far within 150 Leagues of it Viz. The Island Trinidado and the Land against it and there also are great Currents But I shall first speak of the Currents between Cape La Vela and Cape Gratia de Dios. The Currents at Cape La Vela do seldom shift therefore Ships that ply to Wind-ward to get about it do not ply near the shore but stand off to Sea till they come in sight of Hispaniola and then back again till within about 6 or 8 Leagues of the Cape but not nearer But in the Westerly Wind-Season which is from October till March Ships often meet Westerly Winds that last two or three Days with which they may run to the Eastward without any trouble Between Cape La Vela and Cape Gratia de Dios the Currents are much different from what they are against the Cape and this seems to proceed from the make of the Land for the shore between the two Capes runs into the Southward making a great Bay And this Bay affords more varieties of Winds and Currents than any one part of the West Indies besides Here in the Westerly Wind-Season the Current sets to the Westwards constantly but sometimes stronger than at other times At about four Leagues off shore you find it and so it continues till you are 20 25 or 30 Leagues off Beyond that you meet with an Easterly Wind and if there is any Current it runs also to the Westward therefore Ships that are bound to the Westward must run off to Sea Thirty or Forty Leagues to get a Wind or else if they have but a little way to go they must ply close under the shore that so they may Anchor when they please Otherwise they will be carried away to the Eastward Fourteen or Sixteen Leagues in a Nights time and that too though they have a faint Easterly Wind as frequently they meet with though 't is the Westerly Wind-Season To the East of Cape Roman as high as the Island Trinidado you meet only a soaking faint Current setting to the Westward except only near such places as shoot out farthest into the Sea as about the Testegos which are small Islands lying to Wind-ward of the Island Margarita Between those Islands and the Main you meet with a pretty strong Current therefore it is hard getting to the East-ward there but on all the Coast between Cape Roman and the Head-Land shooting out towards the Testegos you may ply up with the Land and Sea-Breezes From thence till you come as high as the East-end of Trinidado Isle you meet with an extraordinary strong Current From the East-end of Trinidado till you come to Surinam though you meet an Easterly Current yet 't is possible to beat it up with the Land and Sea-Breezes From Surianam also to Cape Blanco you may turn it up though to be sure you 'l meet with Currents setting to the West except near the Full of the Moon and then on all the Coasts before-mentioned we commonly meet with Currents setting to the Eastward at least then it slackens and stands still if it doth not run to the East-ward But when you are come as far to the East as Cape Blanco on the North of Brazil you meet with a Current always against you and so from thence Southerly as far as Cape St. Augustine There is no dealing with this Promontory for it shoots out so far into the Sea and thereby lies so exposed to the Sea-Breezes and the Currents that soak down between Africa and Brazil that it is quite contrary to reason to think there should not always be a strong Current setting to the N. W. I have before hinted That in all places where the Trade blows we find a Current setting with the Wind which is not so perceptible in the wide Sea as nearer the Shores yet even there the force of the Winds constantly blowing one way may and probably does move the surface of the Water along with it From hence it may be inferred that the Southerly Winds on the Coast of Africa and the true Trade between it and Brazil gently move the surface of the Sea with it and the Trade being mostly at S. E. drives the Sea to the Northward slanting in on the Coast of Brazil which being there stop'd by the Land bends its Course Northerly towards Cape St. Augustine And after it has doubled that great Promontory it falls away more gently towards the Coast of Suranam and from thence towards the West Indies For after it has doubled that Promontory it has more room to spread it self and thereby becomes weaker in motion being agitated by the Trade-winds which to the North of the Line we find commonly blowing at E. N. E. and this still bears the Sea slanting down along the Coast to the Westward And probably 't is for this Reason that we find the Current setting strongest near those head-Head-Lands before-mentioned Whereas at Barbadoes and other of the Caribee Islands we find only a soaking Current such as seems to arise only from the constancy of the Trade-winds blowing there and not from an original Current from the South part of the Atlantick which as I said before doubles about Cape St. Augustine and so Coasts along pretty nigh the shore The Currents about the Island Trinidado and at Currisao and Aruba as also between them and Cape Roman seem to indicate as much The Currents also between Cape Roman and Cape La Vela indicate the same From Cape La Vela the Currents set still to the Westward towards Cape Gratia de Dios but in a direct Line and not borrowing or slanting in towards the shore For as I said before it is a large Bay and Currents commonly set from one Head-Land to another so that Bays have seldom any or if they have they are only Counter Currents And these Counter Currents too do set from one Point to another without interfering with the little Bays between And 't is also very probable that these Counter Currents such as we meet with in this Bay in their Seasons after they have
it as I received it from my ingenious Friend Capt. Rogers who is lately gone to that Place and hath been there several times before THE Country of Natal takes up about 3 d. and half of Lat. from N. to S. lying between the lat of 31 d. 30 m. South and 28 S. 'T is bounded on the S. by a Country inhabited by a small Nation of Savage People called by our English Wild-bush-Men that live in Caves and in holes of Rocks and have no other Houses but such as are formed by Nature They are of a low stature tauny colour'd with crisped Hair They are accounted very cruel to their Enemies Their Weapons are Bows and poisoned Arrows These People have for their Neighbours on the S. the Hottantots Dellagoa is a Navigable River in Lat. 28 S. that bounds Natal on the N. The Inhabitants of this River have a Commerce with the Portuguese of Mozambique who oft visit them in small Barks and trade there for Elephants Teeth of which they have great plenty Some English too have lately been there to purchase Teeth particularly Capt. Freak just mentioned in my former Volume Ch. 23. P. 510. who after he had been in the River of Dellagoa and purchased 8 or 10 Tun of Teeth lost his Ship on a Rock near Madagascar The Country of Natal lies open to the Indian Sea on the East but how far back it runs to the Westward is not yet known That part of the Country which respects the Sea is plain Champion and Woody but within Land it appears more uneven by Reason of many Hills which rise in unequal Heights above each other Yet is it interlaced with pleasant Valleys and large Plains and 't is checker'd with Natural Groves and Savannahs Neither is there any want of Water for every Hill affords little Brooks which glide down several ways some of which after several turnings and windings meet by degrees and make up the River of Natal which dischargeth it self into the East Indian Ocean in the lat of 30 d. South There it opens pretty wide and is deep enough for small Vessels But at the Mouth of the River is a Bar which has not above 10 or 11 foot Water on it in a Spring-Tide Though within there is Water enough This River is the principal of the Country of Natal and has been lately frequented by some of our English Ships particularly by a small Vessel that Capt. Rogers formerly mentioned commanded There are also other Streams and Rivers which bend their Courses Northerly especially one of a considerable bigness about a â—…00 Mile within Land and which runs due North. The Woods are composed of divers sorts of Trees many of which are very good Timber and fit for any uses they being tall and large The Savannahs also are cloathed with kindly thick Grass The Land-Animals of this Country are Lyons Tigers Elephants Buffaloes Bullocks Deer Hogs Conies c. Here are also abundance of Sea-Horses Buffaloes and Bullocks only are kept tame but the rest are all wild Elephants are so plenty here that they feed together in great Troops 1000 or 1500 in a Company Mornings and Evenings they are seen grazing in the Savannahs but in the heat of the day they retire into the Woods and they are very peaceable if not molested Deer are very numerous here also They feed quietly in the Savannahs among the tame Cattle for they are seldom disturbed by the Natives Here are Fowls of divers sorts some such as we have in England viz. Duck and Teal both tame and wild and plenty of Cocks and Hens Besides abundance of will Birds wholly unknown to us Here are a sort of large Fowls as big as a Peacock which have many fine coloured Feathers They are very rare and shy There are other like Curlews but bigger The flesh of these is black yet sweet and wholesom Meat The Sea and Rivers also do abound in Fish of divers sorts yet the Natives do but seldom endeavour to take any except Tortoises and that is chiefly when they come ashore in the Night to lay their Eggs. Though they have also another very odd way which they sometimes make use of to catch Turtle or Tortoises They take a living sucking Fish or Remora and fastning a couple of strings to it one at the head and the other at the tail they let the sucking Fish down into the Water on the Turtle Ground among the half-grown or young Turtle and when they find that the Fish hath fastned himself to the back of a Turtle as he will soon do they then draw him and the Turtle up together This way of Fishing as I have heard is also used at Madagascar The Natives of this Covntry are but of a middle Stature yet have very good Limbs The Colour of their Skins is black their Hair crisped they are oval visaged their Noses neither flat nor high but very well proportioned their Teeth are white and their Aspect is altogether graceful They are nimble People but very lazy which probably is for want of Commerce Their chief Employment is Husbandry They have a great many Bulls and Cows which they carefully look after for every Man knows his own though they run all promisucously together in their Savannahs yet they have Pens near their own Houses where they make them gentle and bring them to the Pail They also plant Corn and fence in their Fields to keep out all Cattle as well tame as wild They have Guinea Corn which is their Bread and a small sort of Grain no bigger than Mustard-seed with which they make their drink Here are no Arts nor Trades profess'd among them but every one makes for himself such necessaries as Need or Ornament requires the Men keeping to their Employment and the Women to theirs The Men build Houses Hunt Plant and do what is to be done abroad And the Women milk the Cows dress the Victuals c. and manage all Matters within Doors Their Houses are not great nor richly furuished but they are made close and well thatched that neither Winds nor Weather can hurt them They wear but few Cloaths and those extraordinary mean The Men go in a manner naked their common Garb being only a square piece of Cloath made with Silk Grass or Moho Rind and wrought in form of a short Apron At the upper corners it has two straps to tye round their Wastes and the lower end being finely fringed with the same hangs down to their Knees They have Caps made with Beef Tallow of about 9 or 10 Inches high They are a great while a making these Caps for the Tallow must be made very pure before 't is fit for this use Besides they lay on but a little at a time and mixt it finely among the Hair and so it never afterwards comes off their heads When they go a Hunting which is but seldom they pare off 3 or 4 Inches from the top of it that so it may sit the snugger but the next
usual Punishment where 83. 130. slavish State 132 4 5. d. 141 2. Slippers Sandals worn O. 408. S. 129. Sloth Beast where C. 59. d. 61. Small-Pox where O. 334. Smiths Black Gold c. d. O. 331 2. S. 60. 130 1 6. 181. Smoaks and Fires seen O. 82. 459. a signal 252. Snakes and Serpents what and where O. 103. 172. 212. 320 1. in houses c. 373. S. 25. an Antidote 53 4. 127. C. 50. 62. yellow green dun d. 62 3. Snapper fish d. and where O. 91. C. 12. 109. Snook fish d. and where O. 243. C. 12. 71. 124. Soap a Commodity where O. 142 3. 214. Soil what and where O. 11 5 8. 21 9. 44. 59. 70 4 6. 95 7. 101 9. 112. 122. 132 4 5 9. 140 3. 164. 172 5. 187. 196. 202. 218. 222 5. 240. 250 3 5 6. 261. 275 291 7. 309. 310. 333. 351. 380 4. 390. 406. 425 6. 447. 457. 463. 473 8. 532. S. 14 9. 20 1 2 5. variety of it 123 4. 171 4. 181. C. 11. 23. 56 8. 94 5. 102. 111 3 9. 122 3. W. 109. see Savannahs Rocks Sands Trees Rice Soldiers what and where S. 60. Exercises 69 72. rowing 75 7. Arms 70 1 6. trial by eating and how rais'd ib. Fights and Expeditions 70 4. Watch 77 8. hir'd 108. see Guards Arms Fighting Soldier-Insect d. eaten but sometimes poisonous O. 39. Sologues of Mindanao d. O. 325. Proe's and Trade 379. Soundings O. 232 3. see Anchorings La Sounds Key in the Samballo's O. 22 3 6. South Keys or Islands see of Cuba South Sea Bold Shore and great and deep Seas O. 423. 34. no Manatee ib. not Hawks-bill Turtle 105. its Pearl-Oysters 173. Jew-fish 249. Red-wood C. 58. see Blood-wood Ant-bears 61. Oakam O. 295. see Bark Logs Cat-fish Far in it no Rocks Fish or Fowl where 282. Course across it see Course Breadth under-reckon'd O. 288. 290. VVinds VV. 3. 10 1. 24. 40. VVeather 78 9. Tides 93 5 6. Currents 107 8. what part free from Storms and Rain see Pacifick Sea Better Landing about Peru than Mexico see Landing bad See VVeather VVinds Bark-logs Chili Peru Panama Bay Mexico California Commerce with the Atlantick by the Cape-R O. 129. by the Isthmus see Isthmus Souths Storms where O. VV. d. 65 to 8. Soy whence and how made S. 28. Spain presage of the stirs in America O. 180 1. Cargo thence C. 125. see Spaniards particulars relating to them in America O. 2. 3. 4. 6. 12 3 4 8. 27 8. 30 3 8. 41 to 6. 56 to 60 3 8. 75. 83 4 8. 91 4 6 7 0. 100 2. 113 to 7. 120 2 to 8. 131 4 5 6 9. 140 3 4 7 8 9. 152 3 5 to 8. 163 6 to 173 5 7 to 182 4 to 209. 211 3 4 7 to 221. 3 5 to 235 9 to 261 4 to 273 5 7 9. 280 2 3. S. 117. C. 13 9. 20. 34 5. 42 to 7. 51 2 3 4. 73. 90 5 to 8. 109 to 116. 120 to 7 9. 130 1. their sailing W. 40. 105. bad Sea-men 33. 62 3. O. 190 1. at Guam O. 290 1 300 c. at the Philippines 328. 331 3 4. 377 9. 382 3 4 7 8. 515 6. Trade c. 184 5. 243 to 6. 333 4. C. 42 3. 90. 110 1. 120 to 7. 131. see Armada Acapulco-ship Barlaventa-fleet Flota Lima-fleet Carriers Commodities Trade Fighting Intelligence c. Stratagems O. 99. 114 7. 120 1. 135 6. 144 7. 188 9. 208 9. 225 7 8. 243. 259. 265. 382. Government Policy Severity c. 43 4. C. 19. 31. 44. 54. 94 5 6. 109. 112 3 4 6. 272 3. O. 43 4. 331. 359. 372 3. Superstition 42. Gaming 410. Honour 221 3 C. 96. Buildings see Churches Houses Parades Ship-Pumps d. O. 443 4. Husbandry 235. 313. C. 98. Spanish spoken O. 331. 349. 355. 515 6. New Spain Coasts and places of it d. C. 123 c. Spanish Makril where C. 71. d. 72. Spears us'd what and where S. 72. Spice a Commodity S. 65. O. 245. ingross'd and suppress'd 316 7. 350. 366. see Dutch Where to be had ib. 317. 350 1 3. see Cinamon Cloves Clove-bark Ginger Nutmegs Pepper Spic'd-water 359. fee the Spice Islands Malayan learnt there O. 395. Libby-tree and Sago 311. anointing us'd 537. Trade monopoliz'd S. 117. 166. see Spice Dutch See Amboina Banda Ceylon Gilolo Meangis Sumatra Ternate Tidore See Prince Spiders large and use of their Teeth or Horns C. 64. Spittle provok'd by Betle O. 319. Spoons of Coco-nut O. 294. none used 329. 430. Sports at Tonquin S. 53. of others see Dancing Gaming Spouts d. follow a Calm and where O. 451. 2 3. Spuma a white frothing Cacao d. and where C. 111. Squashes Beasts d. and where C. 59. 96. Squirrels where S. 127. eaten 128. Star-apple d. and where O. 204. State of East-Indian Princes O. 335. S. 142 3. see Princes States I. d. O. 82. 424. Stature of People low O. 395. 426. 454. W. 108. mean O. 31 2. 170. 325. 537. S. 40. C. 115. tall O. 7. 406. 464. 478. Stealing with the Toe's S. 138. see Thieves Steel what Coals best to harden it C. 50 7. Sticks burnt on Altars O. 412. Chop-sticks d. S. 84. Sting-ray's Fish see Rays Stocks an usual Punishment where S. 77. Stock-fish wood d. where and price C. 57 8. Stockings a Commodity C. 120. O. 137. none worn 326. 408. 456. S. 43. 129. see Legs Naked Stomach what good for it O. 319. Stone Friable O. 140. scarce ib. none C. 111. see Rocks Soil Stone-Hatchets see Hatchets Storms what and where usual or met by the Author c. and their Presages O. 70. 83 4. 401. 413 4 5 6. 437 8 9. 495 c. 504. S. 35 6. C. 91 2 3. 128. d. W. 2. 19. 59 to 64. 75. most at the N. and F. Moon O. 416. see Moon Turning then dangerous 414. how effected W. 64. see Clouds Corpus Sant Elephanta Hurriricanes Monsoons stormy Norths Souths Spouts Tornadoes Tuffoons None where O. 94. see Pacifick Sea Strangers carriage towards them O. 327 8. S. 50 1. 34 5. see Entertainments Comrades and Pagallies Manners good hospitable c. Women prostitutes Straw-hats worn at Tonquin S. 43. Streets what and where O. 387. inaccessible 428. ill pav'd S. 47. guarded 77. hot Tea sold there 31. Strumstrum a Musical Instrument d. O. 127. Subtle-Jacks and their Nests d. and where C. 65 8 9. Sucking-fish or Remora d. and where O. 64 5. W. 54. us'd for catching Turtle 110. Sugar where a Commodity O. 45. 142 3. 196. 214. 269. S. 151. C. 18. Canes growing and Works O. 22. 46. 78. 143. 199. 218. 223. 409. 429. C. 5. hindred by Salt-Earth 8. season W. 80 1. Sulphur imported S. 65. us'd 68. smell O. 131. Sumatra I. Coasts O. 425. 472 3 6. call'd Sheba in an old Map S. 143. anointing us'd there 537. Malayan spoken 394. Breezes W. 39. Commodities and Trade O. 401. S. 5. 110 1. monopoliz'd 116 7.
Savannah with some large Palmeto-Trees growing in it The North side of the VVest end is full of Coco-Plum-Bushes and some Grapes The Coco-Plum-Bush is about 8 or 9 Foot high spreading out into many Branches It s Rind black and smooth the Leaves oval and pretty large and of a dark Green The Fruit is about the bigness of a Horse-Plum but round some are black some white others redish The Skin of the Plum is very thin and smooth the inside white soft and woolly rather fit to suck than bite inclosing in the middle a large soft Stone This Fruit grows commonly in tho Sand near the Sea and I have tasted some that have been saltish but they are commonly sweet and pleasant enough and accounted very wholsom The Body of the Grape-Tree is about two or three Foot in Circumference growing 7 or 8 Foot high then sends forth many Branches whose Twigs are thick and gross the Leaves are shaped much like an Ivy Leaf but broader and more hard the Fruit is as big as an ordinary Grape growing in Bunches or Clusters among the Twigs all over the Tree it is black when ripe and the inside redish with a large hard Stone in the middle This Fruit is very pleasant and wholsom but of little substance the Stones being so large The Body and Limbs of the Tree are good Fewel making a clear strong fire therefore often used by the Privateers to harden the Steels of their Guns when faulty The Animals of this Island are Lizards Guanoes Snakes and Dear Beside the Common small Lizard there is another sort of a large kind called a Lyon-Lizard This Creature is shaped much like the other but almost as big as a Man's Arm and it has a large Comb on its head when it is assaulted it sets its Comb up an end but otherways it lyes down flat Here are two or three sorts of Snakes some very large as I have been told At the West end of the Island close by the Sea you may dig in the Sand 5 or 6 Foot deep and find good fresh Water There are commonly VVells ready made by Seamen to water their Ships but they soon fill up if not cleared and if you dig too deep your VVater will be salt This Island was seldom clear of Inhabitants when the English visited the Bay for Logwood for the biggest Ships did always ride here in 6 or 7 Fathom Water close by the Shore but smaller Vessels ran up 3 Leagues farther to One-Bush-Key of which in my former Chapter The second Mouth or Entrance into this Lagune is between Trist and Beef-Island and is about 3 Mile wide It is shoal without and only two Channels to come in The deepest Channel on a Spring Tide has 12 Foot Water It lyes near the middle of the Mouth hard Sand on the Barr the West Channel is about 10 Foot Water and lies pretty near Beef-Island You run in with the Sea-Breez and sound all the way taking your Sounding from Beef-Island shore The bottom is soft Oaz and it shoots gradually Being shot in within Beef-Island Point you will have three fathom then you may stand over towards Trist till you come near the Shore and there Anchor as you please There is good Anchoring any where within the Bar between Trist and Beef-Island but the Tide is much stronger than at Port-Royal This is the other Mouth or opening to the Salt Lagune before-mentioned This Lagune is call'd by the Spaniards Laguna Termina or the Lagune of Tides because they run very strong here Small Vessels as Barks Periagoes or Canoas may sail thro' this Lagune from one Mouth to the other or into such Creeks Rivers or smaller Lagunes as empty themselves into this of which here are many The first of Note on the East part of this Lagune as you come in at Port-Royal is the River Summasenta This River though but small yet it is big enough for Pereagoes to enter It disembogues on the South side near the middle of the Lagune There was formerly an Indian Village named Summasenta near the Mouth of the River and another large Indian Town called Chucquebul 7 or 8 Leagues up in the Country This latter was once taken by the Privateers by whom I have been informed that there were about 2000 Families of Indians in it and two or three Churches and as many Spanish Friers though no white Men beside The Land near this River yields plenty of Logwood From Summasenta River to One-Bush-Key is 4 or 5 Leagues the shore running West I have described One-Bush-Key and the Creek against it which as I said is very narrow and not above a Mile long before it opens into another wide Lake lying nearest N. and S. called the East Lagune It is about a League and half wide and 3 Leagues long encompassed with Mangrove-Trees At the S. E. corner of it there is another Creek about a Mile wide at the Mouth running 6 or 7 Mile into the Country on both sides of it grows plenty of Logwood therefore it was inhabited by Englishmen who lived in small Companies from three to ten in a Company and settled themselves at their best Convenience for Cutting At the Head of the Creek they made a path leading into a large Savanah full of black Cattle Horses and Deer which was often visited by them upon occasion At the North end and about the middle of the East Lagune there is another small Creek like that which comes out against One-Bush-Key but less and shallower which dischargeth it self into Laguna Termina against a small sandy Key called by the English Serles's Key from one Captain Serles who first carried his Vessel here and was afterwards killed in the Western Lagune by one of his company as they were cutting Logwood together This Captain Serles was one of Sir Henry Morgans Commanders at the Sacking of Panama who being sent out to cruise in a small Vessel in the South Seas happened to surprize at Toboca the Boatswain and most of the Crew belonging to the Trinity a Spanish Ship on Board which were the Friers and Nuns with all the old Gentlemen and Matrons of the Town to the number of 1500 Souls besides an immense Treasure in Silver and Gold as I was informed by Captain Peralta who then Commanded her as he did afterwards when she was taken by Captain Sharp all which he might have taken in the Ship had he pursued her On the West side of the East Lagune there is a small Skirt of Mangroves that separates it from another running Parallel with it called the East Lagune which is about the bigness of the former Towards the North end of this Laguue runs a small Creek coming out of the East Lagune deep enough for small Barks to pass through At the South end of this Lagune there is a Creek about a Mile wide at its Mouth and half a Mile from thence it divides into two Branches one called the East the other the West Branch both deep