the Persian shore that it was out of sight yet we found no more water than about ten fathom and indeed we were fain to sail when the wind arose with plummet constantly in hand by reason of the shallow which are hereabouts March the eighth We sailed still out of sight of land yet had but four fathom of water and because the shallow is equal in this place for a great way together the Persian Pilots call it Meidan that is the Plain The next day we sailed a little but most of the day lay at Anchor because the Pilots could not find the mouth of the River of Bassora although it seem'd to us to be very near and indeed 't is no easie matter to find it the shore being so low that it is not discerned unless very near hand and to approach so near the shore as to discern the River is not safe by reason of the shallows March the eleventh In seeking the mouth of the River opinions were so various and consequently the Ship governed with such confusion that the rudder strook on ground not without some danger but at length with much diligence we freed the Ship and got into more water the Ship of Ciaul which as lighter drew less water going before us as guide and entring into the River's mouth before we knew it The River of Bassora which is Euphrates and Tygris joyned together is call'd by the Arabians Sciat d' Arab that is the Arabian River and falls into the Sea with two great Mouths about twelve Leagues distant one from the other The most Easterly which is the biggest and securest lyes on the side of Ormuz and Persia whose name it borrows The more Westerly and less frequented by great Ships lyes on the side of Buhhreim or Cutifu of Arabia from whence it assumes a name And because the division of the River into two Branches happens within the land a little below Bassora I know not how many leagues from the Sea hence it forms a no small Trianguler Iland called at this day Cheder which I hold to be the gift of the River like the Delta of Egypt and that it will increase every day by the sand brought down by the River considering the many flats and shallows which as I said above are found in these places Now we being entred by the Eastern mouth and having sailed a good way against the stream at length came to the place of the division and leaving the more Westerly branch on the left hand continued our course amongst the verdures of Date-trees and cultivated Fields which on both sides the River down to the Sea are very fertile At length we came to the place from whence up to the City of Bassora which lies on the west bank a good way from the River is drawn an artificial Dike capable even of Portugal Galliots which pass up to the Dogana or Custom-house where a bridg of planks laid upon boats and fortified with Iron chains crosseth the Dike on the South-part of which bridg stands a Castle and strong Bulwark for guard of the City and passage The water of this trench ebbs and flows with the Sea and at high Tide runs up I known not how far beyond the bridg yet Ships go no further then the bridg where they ride as in a secure Haven From this trench are derived some other little channels on either side to several places of the City and in some of them they make use of small Boats which they call Doneâ— with great convenience to the houses besides that they want not little bridges upon the said channels to walk over on foot The City of Bassora is large and populous but ill built and till of late without walls for by reason of these wars with the Persians they have almost inclosed it with an earthen Rampart within which is the Bazar of Goldsmiths and for linnen Cloth and all the best things that are sold. Before the Castle is an indifferent large Piazza where there are some great Pieces of Ordnance amongst which we saw certain Portugal Pieces which had been taken many years ago by the Turks of Bassora from Mascat when they infested the seas with their Galleys which afterwards were destroy'd by the Portugals Another Piazza there is before the Basha's House which is always full of heaps of Corn Rice and other Fruits which are to be sold here being kept night and day without other shops or inclosure then ordinary mats without fear of stealing in regard of the strict justice exercis'd by the Turks in matter of Theft The people are Arabians with some Turks intermix'd so that the Arabian Language is most spoken although the Turkish and Persian are not unfrequent As for Religion the Moors are partly Sonai's and partly Scinai's with Liberty of Conscience to both yet in the Meschita's the Service is after the manner of the Sonai's and also all publick Ceremonies are perform'd after the Rite of the Sonai's which is that which the Great Turk who is King of this Country observes at Constantinople There are also some Houses of Chaldean Christians call'd Christians of S. John or Sabeans though I believe they have little more besides the name of Christians for they have no Church except the House of one single Priest who was there in my time and he a very Idiot nor could I learn that they ever assembled there to be present at any Divine Service They have no Fast or abstinence from Flesh but eat every day alike Nor have they any Sacraments except some shadow of them and 't is a question whether their Baptism be such as it ought to be and not rather the Baptism of S. John then of Christ. And because in this and many other things they observe S. John Baptist more then any other and have him in greatest Veneration therefore they are call'd Christians of S. John with no small suspition of being the remainder of those Jews whom S. John baptiz'd with the Baptism of Repentance and who without caring for any thing else have continu'd in that Rite ever since The Gospels and other sacred Books 't is not known at least in Bassora that they have or use but they have a Book which they call Sidra according whereunto they govern themselves in matters of Religion but who is the Author of it I know not They speak a harsh Chaldee besides Arabick which is generally in use which Language of theirs they call Mendai as also for the most part amongst themselves they are styl'd Mendai besides the two other names of Christians of S. John and Sabeans by the first of which they are known to us Europaeans and by the latter to the Moors What Mendai signifies and whence it is deriv'd I could not learn They have also particular Characters different from the ordinary Chaldaick and Syrian both ancient and modern wherewith they transcribe their sacred Books but commonly none can either read or write this character besides the Priest who
by fair means or by foul although 't is but a disorderly thing and many inconveniences happen by it Of water we gave them two barrels but no Mariners because we had few enough for our selves and they took them not by force as they would perhaps have done from others out of respect to Sig Coutigno who was in the Ship with us and the rather because we told them we were going to carry Provisions to Ruy Freira who they informed us was retreated into the Island of Larek and that the Armada of Goa was not yet arriv'd and also that themselves were going to Mascat for Provisions In the Evening we met a Terrada or Bark of Freira's Fleet going likewise to Mascat by which we understood the same News February the first The wind turning contrary we cast anchor at distance from land for more security the shore being all the way on our left hand February the second Though the wind became somewhat favourable we weigh'd not anchor because we were to land an Augustine Fryer at Sohar of which place he was Curate and neither we nor the Pilot knowing whether we had pass'd Sohar or not nor yet what Land it was where we were therefore we sent our Boat ashore to inquire it brought word that Sohar lay a little more forward and thereupon it was remitted to carry the said Fryer on shore that so he might ride thither on a Camel by Land This business took up all the day At night we set sail but with no favourable wind so that we were constrain'd to anchor again a little further till about midnight the wind â—â—sing a little in our favour we set forwards The land in this place is a low Plain as the word Sohar signifies yet we saw abundance of hills at a great distance from the shore Sohar is four and twenty leagues from Mascat February the sixth Having by the help of Oars with much difficulty come to Chursakan which is twelve leagues beyond Sohar in the morning we sail'd under Doba which lies three leagues further The Portugals had not so much confidence in the people as to think fit to enter into the Port but resolv'd to go three leagues onwards to a secure place of friendly Arabians call'd Lima. The coast of Doba is mountainous and the Town stands behind a Promontory which runs far into the Sea Here we first discern'd the opposite coast of the Persian Gulph from whence rather rowing then sailing by Sun-set we came to an anchor under Lima. Many of our Ships went ashore some to fetch provisions of which they found but little store and others to refresh themselves I was not in a condition to do the like being in bed under deck by reason of an Ague as also was Mariam Tinatim so that neither of us could so much as look up to behold the Land February the seventh We pass'd by the Cape of Mosendom at the point of which stand two or three Rocks one further then another into the Sea That nearest the Cape is greatest and the remotest is the least which they call Baba Selam the Moorish Sea-men when they pass by it salute it with many shouts of joy Having pass'd by this Cape which is as I believe within ten or twelve leagues of Ormuz leaving Ormuz and Bender di Kombra on the right hand because we presum'd the Dutch and English Ships to be there we directed our course towards Larek hoping to find Ruy Freira there as we had understood by the way but a little after we descry'd two Ships of Freira's Armada as we suppos'd in two several places towards the Land each of which gave us a Gun whereby we apprehended that they intended either to receive or give us some necessary Advertisement Wherefore quitting our course to Larek we turn'd the Stern to the coast of Arabia towards which one of the said Ships about Sun-set seem to be retir'd We approach't near the Land about Evening and passing amidst certain Rocks went to cast anchor within a little bay which was there but in the narrow streight between a Rock and the Continent a most impetuous current of the Sea hurri'd us away so furiously that without giving us time to let down the sail it had almost dash't us against the foot of certain high Rocks where if we had touch't without doubt our Ship had been split in a thousand pieces nor had any one of us escap't with life unless by miracle nevertheless by plying our Oars stoutly and at length letting down the sail by God's mercy we were delivered from this imminent and manifest danger Yet not so fully but that we had like to have been cast upon another Rock not so much through the violence of the Current as the negligence of the Sea-men who did not govern the Sails and Helm well But at length being by the Divine Assistance freed from both dangers we got to the place we design'd and there found one of Freira's Ships which had given us a Warning-piece in the preceding day and also an armed Bark of that sort which they call Terrankim and are almost such as our Caichi or Shallops which Bark Ruy Freira sent to the Rock Baba Selam there to wait for the Armada of Goa and advertise him when it arriv'd In the Ship was Sig. Sancho di Toar who the last year had been sent from Goa General of certain Ships to assist Ruy Freira and being weary of the war now with his licence obtain'd as may be thought by importunity was returning to Mascat and so to Goa with seventy or eighty soldiers that accompani'd him After we had cast anchor although it was very dark yet some of the said soldiers and the Captain of the Terranquim came to our Ship to speak with Don Francesco Cavacio so also did the Captain of the Ship the abovesaid di Toar next morning Don Francesco disswaded the soldiers from deserting the war in a time of so great need and of so fair an occasion as would be at the coming of the Armada of Goa which was approaching hourly telling them that at Goa it would be held an action little honourable and that the Vice-Roy would severely punish whoever return'd thither abandoning Ruy Freira In short he said so much to them that being assur'd of the coming of the Fleet of Goa which before they disbeliev'd and accounted only a report to keep the soldiers in suspence almost all of them chang'd their purpose and resolv'd to continue at the war after they had been at Mascat only to provide themselves some necessaries Of such moment to the publick good is the authority and prudent discourse of a worthy person amongst people We had news from them that Ruy Freira had quitted Larek because the English at the instance of the Persians had gone thither with their Ships to drive him thence whereupon having first destroy'd certain Shops of Provision which he had made there for convenience of the soldiers and a weak
shore of Africa for in the dayes of Solomon the Art of Navigation was not known and Sea-men then steering without Cart or Compass were necessitated to keep the neighbouring Land alwayes in their sights as without question those Ships did and to those fore-mention'd places stored as is related above other parts of Africa with those richest Commodities I might have taken notice before but yet it will not be unseasonable of many sudden strong and violent Gusts of wind frequently to be observed in those South-west Seas which surprize a Ship so suddenly that if she have many sails abroad and the Mariners be not very watchful and nimble to strike them their strength is such that they will endanger her overturning And to these there are many strange watery Clouds they call Spouts which appear like a Funnel or water-tankard very large and big at the one end but small on the other which hangs lowest and of a very great length They contain a great Quantity of water wrapt together by a whirl-wind that falls within a very narrow Compass the abundance whereof by its great weight if it fall directly as sometimes it doth upon the body of a small Ship it will much endanger it and would do much more harm but that these Spouts when they are seen may be easily avoided From the Island of Madagascar we proceeded on in our Course and the fifth of August following approached near the little Islands of Mohilia Gazadia St. John de Castro with some others whose Name I know not called in general the Islands of Comora lying about twelve Degrees South of the Equator The day following being the sixth of August Early in the Morning our Men looking out for Land espied a Sail which stood directly in our Course but far before us at first sight she appeared as if there had been some great Hill interposed betwixt us For first we had sight only of her Colours in her high Maintop after this of her Masts and Sails and then of her Hull after which manner Ships at Sea do every where appear at great distance one to another which proves that that mighty Collection of waters called Seas have a Convex or Globous and round body placed by Almighty God as it were in Hills or Heaps and being being above the earth and higher than it they have set Limits and commanded they are to their Bounds contrary to their Nature which they may not pass for so saith the Psalmist Psalm 104.9 Thou hast set a bound which they may not pass over that they return not again to cover the earth But this is known to all that have been at Sea therefore we proceed Upon the first sight of that Ship we were all glad of the object improving all endeavours we could to overtake her with-all preparing our great Ordnance that if she were a Friend we might salute her if an Enemy be in readiness for her So eagerly pursuing this unlooked for Ship with the wings of the wind after that we had given her Chase about five hours her Colours and bulk discovered her to be a very great Portugal Caraque bound for Goa lying in the skirts of East-India and principally inhabited by Portugals the City of Residence for the Vice-Roy to the King of Spain her Commander called Don Emanuel de Meneces a brave Resolute Man as the sequent will demonstrate About noon the Globe our least Ship by reason of her nimbleness sailing better then her fellows came up with her on her broad side to wind-ward and according to the Custom of the Sea hayl'd her asking whence she was she answer'd indirectly Of the Sea calling our Men Rogues Thieves Hereticks Devils and the Conclusion of her rude Complement was in loud Cannon Language discharging seven great Pieces of Artillery at our Globe though she had very little reason so to do we having four Ships in Company and she alone whereof six pierced her through the Hull maiming some of her Men but killing none our Globe replyed in the same voice and after that fell off About three of the Clock in the Afternoon the Charles our Admiral came up with her so near that we were within pistol shot our Commander Captain Joseph proceeded religiously in offering them a Treaty before he proceeded to Revenge so we saluted her with our Trumpets she us with her wind Instruments then we shewed our Men on both sides aloft this done our Commander called to them requiring Theirs to come aboard to give an account for the injury they had lately before offered us they answered They had never a Boat our Commander replyed that he would send them one and immediately caused his Barge to be man'd and sent off to them which brought back one of their Officers and two others of inferior rank with this message from their Captain how that he had promised the King of Spain his Master not to leave his Ship and therefore forc'd he might be but never would be Commanded out of her Captain Joseph received the Message and used those that brought it Civilly and then ordered that they should be shewed in a broad side of great Guns that lay all ready prim'd to be fir'd against them how we were prepar'd to vindicate our selves which put the poor Portugals into a fit of trembling and upon it desir'd our Commander to write a few words to theirs that happily with their perswasion might make him come Captain Joseph willing to preserve his Honour to prevent blood consented and forthwith caused a few lines in Spanish to this effect to be wrote unto him That Whereas he the Commander of the Carraque had offered violence to our Ship that sail'd peaceably by him he will'd him to come presently and give a reason for that wrong or else at his perill So he discharged those Portugals sending one of our Masters Mates back with them with those few words and this further message that if he refused to come he would sink by his side but that he would force him before he left him Morientium verba sunt prophetica his words came to pass for he himself suddenly after fell by a great Shot that came from the Caraques side The Commander of the Caraque notwithstanding the Message and Menace sent to him was still peremptory in his first answer So our Men returning Captain Joseph himself made the three first Shot at them all which the mark being so fair and near hit them this done the Bullets began to flie on both sides our Captain cheering his Company immediately ascended the half Deck the place where Commanders use to keep in those Encounters to shew their own Gallantry and to encourage the Company under their Command where he had not been the Eighth part of an hour ere a great Shot from the Caraques quarter deprived him of Life in the twinkling of an Eye For this Captain Joseph he was certainly one who had very much of a Man in him for years ancient who had
it a good way inwards but I without having so much minded the Maps said that I conceiv'd we were much lower and more without the Gulph towards Bassain because although we had always sail'd and kept the ships prow directed to Daman by the shortest line yet for the two or three last dayes we had had the Wind for that place contrary which although it hinder'd us not from holding our course because we help'd our selves with the rudder and siding of the sails yet the violence of the Wind must needs have continually driven the ship something lower then we intended Two hours after midnight the current of the Gulph of Cambaia being contrary against which by reason of its impetuosness there is no sailing for a while but the ship must stay either for the turning of it which is known when it will happen because it regularly changes according to the hours and days of the Moon or for a strong Wind wherewith to master the current for this reason and also that the day-light might resolve us in what place we were we cast anchor and struk sail to wait for a more fitting time The Sea in this place began to be very rough which happens by reason of the strong current which it hath The next Morning we discern'd land afar off and according to my conjecture it appear'd that we were lower that is more to the South of Daman about twelve leagues in a place a little distant from Bassain which the English call Terra di San Giovanni but in the Sea-Chart is noted in the Portugal Tongue with the name of Ilhas das vaccas or the Islands of Cows About one a clock in the Afternoon the Tide being become less contrary we set sail again by degrees approaching still nearer the shore of India But a little before Night the current turning against us we were constrain'd to cast anchor once more nevertheless after midnight it became favourable again and we sail'd onwards by degrees till day This slow course through the Gulph of Cambaia with the plummet always in hand and sounding every hour it was requisite for us to hold because the place is dangerous in regard of the many shelves or quick-sands which are in it and especially because the current which turns every six hours now setting one way and anon the other causes great hindrance By reason of which shelves from the time of our entrance into the Gulph we did not guide the ship directly towards Surà t which no doubt would have been the shortest way by a strait line but keeping lower towards Daman fetch'd a large compass to the South tacking about afterwards to the North when we were near land onely to avoid the many shelves and shallows through which our great ships could not pass On Sunday the the fifth of February being at anchor in the Morning we discover'd near the land which was not very far from us ten or fifteen Frigots or Galliots sailing Eastwards which probably were either Portugal or Indian Merchants of some Cafila as they call a Fleet or Consort of ships coming from Cambaia to go to Goa or some other place thereabouts The night following we heard the report of Artillery which we conceiv'd to come from the City of Daman being the place nearest us Wednesday night after the Wind blew somewhat hard against us in regard whereof and the strength of the current which carry'd us in that narrow channel amongst shelves and quick-sands we sail'd for a good while very circumspectly and not without some danger On Thursday we stood right against the mouth of the River of Surà t which City is not situate upon the shore but some leagues within land And because there is no station there for great ships we continued sailing Northwards to the place where is the Port most frequented by the ships of Europe which though the best of all that Coast yet the Vessels of that Country not knowing so well how to steer make not much use of it because the entrance is a little difficult On Fryday the tenth of February in the Afternoon the favour of the current failing us we cast anchor in sight of the Port of Surà t at a little distance and our boat going a shore the President of the English Merchants who uses to reside in Surà t and is superintendent of all their Trade in East-India Persia with the other places depending on the same is now one Mr. Thomas Rastel perceiving our ships near and being at that time at the Sea-side near the landing place came in our boat to the ships together with one of their Ministers so they call those who exercise the office of Priests and two other Merchants and after a collation and a supper lodg'd with us all night He spoke Italian very well and made me many civil offers and complements shewing himself in all things a a person sufficiently accomplish'd and of generous deportment according as his gentile and graceful aspect bespoke him He inform'd me that Sig r Alberto di Scilling a German Gentleman known to me in Persia having return'd from the Court of the Moghol and other parts of India which he had travell'd to see was at that time in Surat from whence he was gone to see the City of Barocci hard by and would return speedily with which intelligence I was much pleas'd because Sig Alberto was my great friend and I extremely desir'd to see him On Saturday Morning we convers'd together for some time drinking a little of hot wine boyl'd with Cloves Cinnamon and other spices which the English call burnt wine and use to drink frequently in the Morning to comfort the stomack sipping it by little and little for fear of scalding as they do Cahue Coffee by me elsewhere describ'd And they use it particularly in the Winter to warm themselves though in India 't is not necessary for that end because albeit 't was still Winter according to our division of the seasons yet we had more heat there then cold After this short refection the President return'd a shore and I remain'd in the ship not expecting to disimbarque till we were got into the Harbour which was a little before night and the anchors were cast very near the land but because 't was now late and the City of Surat was a good distance off none of us car'd to land Nor did I go out of the ship on Sunday both because it was a sacred day and because our Captain was pleas'd to give an Entertainment to us and the Captain of the Dolphin our companion in the voyage Monday the thirteenth of the same moneth was the day of my Ague whereof I had had divers fits by the way at sea nevertheless after a collation I went on shore together with the Captain of our ship where we continu'd under certain tents pitch'd for convenience of the Tonnellers so the English term certain of their Mariners imploy'd to fill the Casks with water in expectation of Coaches to carry
the Court of the Abissins in case he could get Transportation and were not hindred in the Turkish Ports where he was to pass upon account of being a Christian the Turks not willingly granting passage to Christians especially Europaeans towards Hhabese in regard of the suspitions they have of the intelligences and converse with our Compatriots may have to their prejudice with that Prince Wherefore taking leave of Sig Alberto with many embraces of Master Rosel whom I had known in Persia and who being come from thence after me was here shipt for a Trading Voyage and of all my other Friends in the two Ships I came back to sup and lye on Land in the Tent of the President March the twenty fifth Early in the Morning I put my Goods into the Shallop of Sebastian Luis and also going aboard my self whilst the President went to his own Ships to dispatch them set sail for Daman at night we cast Anchor in a narrow arm of the Sea which enters far into the Land of which sort of inlets there are many all along the coast of India which encompassing good portions of Land make many little Islands and because the said arms of the Sea are long and narrow like Rivers and some of them have little Rivers falling into them from the continent although the water is salt and they have no current but the ebbing and flowing of the Sea the Portugals term them in their Language Rios Rivers which I take notice of that it may be understood that all the Rios or Rivers which I shall name in the coast of India and not specifie that they are streams of fresh water are such arms of the Sea as this improperly call'd Rivers This where we staid this night is call'd Rio di Colek or Coleque I have better understood that all the aforesaid inlets are not arms of the Sea but really Rivers of fresh water and the Tide of the Sea at ebbing and flowing being here very strong and overcoming that of the Rivers hence it comes to pass that 't is hardly perceiv'd whether they have any stream or no and the water going far into the Land comes likewise to be salt but indeed they are Rivers and form Islands by their entring into the Sea with many mouths They are almost innumerable upon all the coast of India and the Portugals very truly call them Rios Rivers Wonder not at these doubts and various informations for I could not understand things thoroughly at first for want of converse with intelligent persons nor was it easie for me to judge right in the beginning the first appearance of things oftentimes deceiving even the wisest as the saltness of the water did me in my judgement of these Rivers making me take them for arms of the Sea which mistake was further'd by the affirmation of most of the ignorant Portugals who not knowing more of this coast then the shore where the water is salt think that the Rivers are salt water but Time and better informations assist my diligence in discovering the truth of things March the twenty sixth About noon we arriv'd at Daman but unseasonably the Cafila and Fleet of the Portugals being gone in the Morning and we discern'd them sailing afar off but it was not possible to overtake them I advertis'd F. Antonio Albertino Rector of the Jesuits Colledge of my coming and he very courteously came forthwith to the Sea-side to receive me and carry'd me to lodge in the Colledge which in reference to that small City is large enough and well built He sent Mariam Tenatim in a Palanchino or Indian Litter wherein people are carry'd lying along as 't were in a Couch and those of Women are cover'd to the House of a Portugal Gentlewoman and advis'd me that since the Cafila was departed I should go in the same Vessel to meet it at Bassaim where it was to touch and for that day rest a little in Daman as accordingly I did The City of Daman is small but of good building and hath long large and strait streets It hath no Bishop as neither have the other Cities of the Portugals upon this coast being subject in spirituals to the Arch-Bishop of Goa but in every one of them resides a Vicar whom they call da Vara that is of the Vierge or Mace which is the badg of Authority with supream power Besides the Jesuits and the Church of the See as they call the Duomo or Cathedral here are Dominicans Franciscans and as I remember Augustines too all who have good Churches and Covents The City is environ'd with strong walls of good fortification and hath a large Territory and many Towns under it and because they are frequently at war with Nizamsciah whose State being govern'd at this day by his famous Abissine-Slave Melik Ambar borders upon it by Land therefore the Portugals here are all Horse-men and keep many good Arabian Horses as they are oblig'd to do going frequently out to war in defence of their Territory when occasion requires though during my time here they were at peace In Daman I first tasted at the Father Rector's Table many strange Indian Fruits some of which are describ'd by Carolus Clusius and others not which as I was told were after the writing of his Books brought into East India from Brasil or New Spain namely Papaia Casu or Cagiu Giambo Manga or Amba and Ananas all which seem'd to me passibly good and though of different tasts not inferior to ours of Europe especially Papaia which is little esteem'd in India and if I mistake not is not mention'd by the abovesaid Writer in shape and taste it much resembles our Melons but is sweeter and consequently to me seem'd better Ananas is justly esteem'd being of a laudable taste though something uncouth inclining more to sharpness which with a mixture of sweetness renders it pleasant And because the said Books mention it not I shall briefly add that to the outward view it seems when it is whole to resemble our Pine-Apple both in the divisions and the colour saving that at the top it hath a kind of tuft of long strait leaves between green and white which the Pine-Apple hath not and which render it prety to look upon 't is also different from the Pine-Apple in that the husks are not hard but tender like the common skin of Fruits nor is it needful to take them off one by one neither is any seed eaten as the Pine-Nuts which are within the husks but the whole Fruit is all pulp which is cut with the knife and within 't is of somewhat a greenish colour Of temperament 't is held to be hot and good to promote digestion having in my opinion somewhat of a winish taste and strength which virtue of helping digestion is likewise ascrib'd in a higher degree to Caju whence it always uses to be eaten with fish but of this and the rest because I suppose others have written of them I shall forbear further
at present whence the Houses are poor Cottages of earth and straw It hath been but one strait street of good length with Houses and Shops continu'd on both sides and many other sheds dispers'd among the Palme-to's The King's House stood upon a rais'd ground almost like a Fort but is now wholly destroy'd so that there is nothing left standing but the posts of the Gate for when Venk-tapà Naieka took this Territory he demolish'd what-ever was strong in it The Bazà r or Market-place remains although not so stor'd with goods as it was in the time of its own King yet it affords what is necessary and much Areca or Fofel whereof they make Merchandize sending the same into divers parts that of this place being better then others here are also in the Bazà r some Gold-smiths who make knives and cizzers adorn'd with Silver very cheap and other like toys of which I bought some and having seen all that was to be seen return'd on foot as I came though somewhat late to Mangalòr December the second This Morning I went to see Olaza which is about the same distance from Mangalòr as Banghel is but the contrary way towards the South and stands on the other side of a great River which was to be pass'd over by boat The Queen was not here and seldom is but keeps her Court commonly in another place more within land yet I would not omit to see Olaza the rather because in the Portugal Histories it gives name to that Queen as being that Land of hers which is nearest and best known to the Portugals and perhaps the richest and fruitfullest which she now enjoyes I found it to be a fat soil the City lying between two Seas to wit the Main-sea and the Bay upon an arm of Land which the Port incloses so that the situation is not onely pleasant but might also be made very strong if it were in the hands of people that knew how to do it It is all open saving on one side towards the mouth of the Haven between the one Sea and the other where there is drawn a weak wall with a ditch and two inconsiderable bastions The Bazà r is indifferent and besides necessaries for provisions affords abundance of white and strip'd linnen cloth which is made in Olaza but course such as the people of that Country use At the Towns end is a very pleasant Grove and at the end thereof a great Temple handsomely built for this Country and much esteem'd Olaza is inhabited confusedly both by Gentiles who burn themselves and also by Malabar-Moors About a mile off Southwards stands the Royal House or Palace amongst the above-said Groves where the Queen resides when she comes hither sometimes 'T is large enclos'd with a wall and trench but of little moment In the first entrance it hath a Gate with an open Porch where the Guard is to stand and within that a great void place like a very large Court on the far side whereof stands the House whose inside I saw not because the Court was not there yet for this place it seem'd to have something of wild Majesty behind it joyns to a very thick wood serving both for delight and security in time of necessity The way from the Palace to the City is almost wholly beset with Houses Having seen as much as I desir'd I stay'd not to dine but return'd to Mangalòr there being always a passage-boat ready to carry people backwards and forwards December the third Arriving not timely enough to hear Mass in the Church Del Rosario I went to San Francesco where I heard Mass and a tolerably good Sermon made by an old Father call'd Francesco dos Neves In the Evening I prepar'd to go to see the Queen of Olaza at her Court which was the design of this litle peregrination And not finding Sig Paolo Sodrino my friend at Mangalòr I was help'd to a boat by Sig Luis Gomes a Native of Cananòr but who had liv'd long at Mangalòr I went up the River which comes from the Territories of Olaza but another more Northern different from the above-mention'd little one over which I pass'd by a bridg to Banghel and falling into the Port of Mangalòr I took with me also a Brachman call'd Narsù a Native of Mangalòr to serve me for an Interpreter with the Queen although my Christian Servant spoke the Language well partly that I might have more persons with me to serve me and partly because the Bachman being a Gentile known and vers'd in this Court might be more serviceable to me in many things than my own Servant so having provided what was needful and prepar'd victuals to dine with upon the River by the way which is somewhat long I determin'd to set forth the next Morning December the fourth Before day-light I took boat at Mangalòr in which there were three Water-men two of which row'd at the Prow and one at the Poop with a broad Oar which serv'd both for an Oare and a Helm Having pass'd by Bronghel we enter'd into the great Northern River in which on the left hand is a place where passage-boats laden with Merchandize pay a Tole to the Ministers of Venk-tapà Naieka to whom the circumjacent Region is subject Rowing a great way against the stream the water whereof for a good space is salt at length we stay'd to dine at a Town call'd Salè inhabited for the most part by Moors and situate on the right bank as you go up the River This Town with others round it is subject to an Indian-Gentile Lord call'd Ramo Rau who in all hath not above 2000 Pay-gods of yearly Revenew of which he payes about 800. to Venk-tapà Naieka to whom he is Tributary Nevertheless he wears the Title of King and they call him Omgiu Arsù that is King of Omgiù which is his chief place Having din'd and rested a while we continu'd our Voyage and after a good space enter'd into the State of the Queen of Oloza to whom the Country on either side the River belongs The River is here very shallow so that though our boat was but small yet in many places we struck against the ground at length about Evening we arriv'd at Manèl so they call the place where the Queen of Olaza now resides which is onely a Street of a few Cottages or Sheds rather then Houses but the Country is open fair and fruitful inhabited by abundance of little Houses and Cottages here and there of Husband-men besides those united to the great Street call'd the Bazà r or Market all which are comprehended under the name of Manèl which lies on the left side of the River as you go against the stream Having landed and going towards the Bazà r to get a Lodging in some House we beheld the Queen coming alone in the same way without any other Woman on foot accompany'd onely with four or six foot-Souldiers before her all which were quite naked after their manner saving that they had a cloth over
it was built by the Kings of Banghel whilst they flourish'd for it lyes in their Territory and that the place and the Seignory thereof was by them given to the Gioghi who as they have no Wives so the Dominion of this Hermitage and the adjacent Land goes not by Inheritance but by Elective Succession I thought to find abundance of Gioghi here as in our Covents but I saw not above one or two and they told me they resort not together but remain dispers'd here and there as they list abide in several places in Temples where they please nor are subject to their King in point of Obedience as ours are to their Superior but onely do him Reverence and Honour and at certain solemn times great numbers of them assemble here to whom during their stay the King supplies Victuals In the Hermitage live many Servants of his and Labourers of the Earth who till these Lands whereby he gets Provision They told me that what he possesses within and without the Hermitage yields him about five or six thousand Pagods yearly the greatest part whereof he expends in Feasts and the rest in diet and in what is needful for the ordinary service of the Temple and his Idols and that Venk-tapà Naieka had not yet taken Tribute of him but 't was feared he would hereafter At length I went to see the King of the Gioghi and found him employed in his business after a mean sort like a Peasant or Villager He was an old man with a long white beard but strong and lusty in either ear hung two little beads which seemed to be of Gold I know not whether empty or full about the bigness of a Musket-bullet the holes of his ears were large and the tips much stretched by the weight on his head he had a little red bonnet such as our Galley-slaves wear which caps are brought out of Europe to be sold in India with good profit From the girdle upwards he was naked onely he had a piece of Cotton wrought with Lozenges of several colours cross his shoulders he was not very low and for an Indian of colour rather white then otherwise He seemed a man of judgement but upon tryal in sundry things I found him not learned He told me that formerly he had Horses Elephants Palanchinoes and a great equipage and power before Venk-tapà Naieka took away all from him so that now he had very little left That within twenty dayes after there was to be a great Feast in that place to which many Gioghi would repair from several parts that it would be worth my seeing and that I should meet one that could speak Arabick and Persian and was very learned who could give me satisfaction of many things and extolling the qualities of this Giogho he told me that he had a very great Head to signifie the greatness of which he made a great circle with his arms to wit of hair ruffled and long and which had neither been cut nor combed a great while I asked him to give me his Name in writing for my Memory since I was come to see him He answerâ—d me as the Orientals for the most part do to such curious demands To what purpose was it and in fine he would not give it me but I perceiv'd 't was through a vain and ignorant fear that it might be of some mischief to him Nevertheless at my going away I was told by others that he is call'd Batniato and that the Hermitage and all the adjacent places is call'd Cadirà Having ended my discourse with the King I came away and at the foot of the Hill without the first gate of the Hermitage rested to dine till the heat were over in the House or Cottage of one of the Peasants there being a small Village there whose Wife set before us Rice Caril and Fish which themselves also eat being of a Race allow'd so to do When the heat was past I return'd fair and softly as I went to Mangalòr and arriv'd at home a good while before night December the eighteenth I prepar'd my self to go to Carnate to see that Queen whose Territory and City is as I have said else-where two or three Leagues distant from Mangalòr upon the Sea-coast towards the North. The City stands upon a River which encompasses it and over-flowes the Country round about it was wont to be very strong both by Art and situation but during the war of Mangalòr Venk-tapà Naieka coming with a great Army to subdue and pillage all these Countries sent for this Queen to come and yield Obedience to him The Queen who as I have heard is a Lady of much Virtue and Prudence being unwilling to render her self to Venk-tapà summoned her Captains together told them that she was ready to spend and give them all the Money and Jewels she had and not to be wanting on her part to her utmost power if they would prepare themsâ—lves to defend the State But these Ministers either through Cowardize or Treachery would not attempt a defence Whereupon the poor Queen who as a Woman could do little by her self her Son also being very young seeing her people disheartned resolv'd by their advice to surrender her self to Venk-tapà Naieka and accordingly prepar'd to go to him with a good Guard of Souldiers Which he hearing sent to her to come alone without other company then her Attendants which she did not voluntarily but constrain'd thereto by her hard Fortune and the little Faith of others Venk-tapà receiv'd her honourably and took her into his Friendship and Protection but withall he caus'd the City to be dismantled of the strong walls it had to prevent her rebelling against him afterwards and left her as before the Government of the State tying her onely to Obedience the payment of a Tribute and the professing of a noble Vassallage to him When they dismantled the City the Queen they say unable to endure the sight retir'd into a solitary place a little distant cursing in those her solitudes the Pusillanimity and Infidelity of her own people no less then the unfortunateness and weakness of the Portugals her defenders to whom she had been always a faithful Friend At this time she lives with her young Son either in Carnate or some other place thereabouts Being mov'd by the Fame of this Queens Virtue I was desirous to go and do her Reverence for which purpose I had gotten a Palanchino ready and Men to carry me thither But in the Morning of the above-said day there put in to Mangalòr a Fleet of Portugal Ships which they call l' armata del Canarà because it coasts along the ruines of the Province Canarà or else l' armata della Colletta for that it is maintain'd with the Money of a New Impost lay'd upon and collected by the Portugals in their Indian Plantations The General of this Fleet was Sig Luis de Mendoza a principal Cavalier or Fridalgo as they speak young but of very good
parts The Captain of one of the Ships was Sig Ayres de Siqueira Baraccio formerly my Friend at Goa whom I expected that I might return thither in his Ship Whereupon hearing of his Arrival I went to seek him and finding him already landed I understood by him that this Fleet was to go to Calecut in order to carry thither two Men of Samorì King of Calecut Samorì is a Title given to all those Kings like our Emperour or Caesar which Men he had a little before sent to Goa in the same Fleet in another Voyage which it had made upon those Coasts to try the Vice-Roy about a Peace for he had been many years if not at War yet at enmity with the Portugals saying that if the Vice-Roy inclin'd to Peace he would afterwards send Ambassadors with more solemnity and treat of Articles Now these Men were returning to Calecut with the Vice-Roy's Answer and as Sig Ayres said the Fleet would depart from Mangalòr the same night yet would return very shortly because the General had Orders not to stay at Calecut above four and twenty hours onely till he had landed these Men and understood what Resolution the Samorì gave in Answer without giving him more time to think thereupon That in their return the Fleet would touch at Mangalòr and all the other Ports of that Coast to take with them the Merchants Ships laden with Rice which were now prepar'd or a preparing and convoy them according to their custom to Goa where by reason of scarcity of provision they were much desir'd Hearing this News I was loath to lose the opportunity of seeing Calecut the King whereof is one of the most famous among the Gentile Princes of India and is likely to be at Peace but a little while with the Portugals and therefore resolved to go aboard the Ship of Sig Ayres the same day putting off my Journey to Carnate whither I had hopes to go at my return Accordingly dismissing the Palanchino and the Men that were to carry me together with the Servant I had taken at Barselòr because he was not willing to go further with me I went aboard alone without any Servant assuring my self I could not want attendance and what-ever else was needful in the Ship wherein I found Sig Manoel Leyton Son of Sig Gio Fernandez Leyton embarqu'd as a Souldier which course of life he was now first enter'd upon besides many other eminent Souldiers who were afterwards very friendly to me and with whom I spent many days in good conversation December the nineteenth We departed from Mangalòr and went formost of all because our Ship was Captain of the Vanguard This day we pass'd by a high Hill discover'd within Land call'd Monte Delì and the next day December the twentieth by another call'd Monte Fermoso At night we anchor'd under Cananòr but enter'd not the Port having sail'd from Mangalòr hither always Southwards eighteen Leagues December the one and twentieth Once in the Morning and once in the Evening we met with Paroes which are very light Ships of the Malabar Rovers of whom this Coast was full for at Mangalòr ends the Province of Canarà and that of Malabar begins We made ready our Arms both times to fight them but they fled from us and recover'd the mouths of the Rivers whereof that Coast is full where by reason it was their own Territory and well guarded in those narrow and difficult places we could not pursue them to take them onely we discharg'd some Guns against them at distance to no purpose which were answer'd from that Land with the like we might easily have attempted if not to take that which we saw in the Evening yet at least to shatter it a far off with our Cannon if the General had not had regard to the Land they recover'd which belong'd to the Samorì to whom upon account of the Peace in agitation he was willing to have respect At night we came to Anchor under Calecut which is twelve Leagues Southwards beyond Cananòr December the two and twentieth Early in the Morning the Samorì's two Men landed at Calecut and with them a Portugal common Souldier but well clad and attended whom the General sent to the King with the Vice-Roy's Answer which was That the Vice-Roy was contented to treat of a Peace and would gladly conclude it but on condition that the Samorì made Peace too with the King of Cocin the Portugals Confederate whom it was not fit to leave out of the said Peace and the rather because the greatest differences between the Portugals and the Samorì were touching the King of Cocin whom the Portugals justly defended as their faithful Friend and had alwayes to the dammage of the Samorì his perpetual Adversary much supported That if the Samorì were contented to make Peace with both he should send his Ambassadors to Goa with power to treat of the conditions and they should be receiv'd very well Within a short time the Portugal return'd to the Fleet for the City of Calecut stands upon the shore and the Samorì's Royal Palace is not far off And together with the Portugal the Samorì sent to the General a Portugal Boy eight or ten years old call'd Cicco who in certain Revolutions of Cananòr had been taken Prisoner and was brought up in his Court he sent him well cloth'd and accompany'd not onely with many persons but also with Pipes and Drums that he might visit the General in his Name and give him a Present of Refreshments to eat namely Indian Figgs Lagne and other fruits His Answer to the business was that the Peace should be first made between himself and the Portugals and afterwards the Interests of the King of Cocin should be taken into consideration withall desiring the General that he would vouchsafe to stay a while till he had better advis'd with his Ministers and deliberated about sending Ambassadors to Goa in the same Fleet with other Reasons which were judg'd rather excuses to put off the time and hold the Portugals in a Treaty of Peace till some very rich Ships of his which he expected from Meccha were return'd left the Portugals should molest them at Sea than real intentions for a Peace especially with the King of Cocin with whom he hath long and intricate discords not so easily to be terminated The Portugals also demanded that the Samorì would remove a Garrison which he had plac'd in certain Confines where they for their own security and the defence of the King of Cocin were fain to keep a Fort continually with a great Garrison and at much expence And because he shew'd not much inclination thereunto it was not without cause judg'd that his Treaties were Artifices to hold the Portugals in suspence wherefore the General sent him word That he had express Order from the Vice-Roy not to stay longer at Calecut then twenty four hours and so long he would stay If within that time the Samorì took a Resolution sutable to the Vice-Roy's
ado go to Surat and after they had there done what mischief they could to the Enemies then sail to Ormuz December the sixteenth The Ship wherein I was to imbarque being to set sail the night following I put my Goods aboard and having taken leave of my Friends I was accompanied to the Sea-side by Sig. Luigi Cabreira from whom I separated with many embraces and much regret on either side As soon as I was in the Ship the Captain weighed Anchor intending to set sail as soon as we should have a good wind although the Captain of Ciaul sent a publick Notary to the Captain of our Ship not to go out of the Port this night the service of the King so requiring I believe it was that we might stay for some other Ships which were to go out the next morning to the end we might go altogether more secure from the Malabars the greatest dangers of whom is at the going out of Ports about which they lie waiting and near the Land where they ply up and down more then in the main Sea We had no wind in the night and therefore went not out of the Port. December the seventeenth In the morning we set out of the Port with a small gale and at the same time three or four other Ships set forth for several parts We had not sail'd far but we descry'd some Vessels coming towards us which we took for Pirats and therefore prepar'd to fight them but at length we lost sight of them and hois'd the great sail directing our course almost Northwest having first rehears'd the Litanies of our Lady and invok'd the Divine Assistance and her's propitious to our Voyage December the twenty third Having hitherto sail'd prosperously we came to the altitude of twenty three degrees and a half under the Tropick of Cancer leaving the Torrid Zone under which I had been travelling in sundry parts for about a year and ten Months Here the wind fail'd us and we had as quiet a Sea as uses to be at the shores of Italy in the Month of August We began to find the Sky which hitherto we had seen constantly clear as it uses to be in India during these Months now interstinguish'd with clouds and in short the mutation of the Climate was manifest The Coast of Arabia for which we were bound could not be far off but we could not get to discover it for want of wind December the twenty seventh Having hitherto been becalm'd without advancing but rather being driven backwards by the contrary current of the water the Portugals as their custom is after reciting the Litanies and praying to God and Sant ' Antonio of Padua to whom they bear great devotion to give us a good wind intended to bind a little Image of the said S. Anthony which they carry'd in the Ship as if to imprison it for thus they use to do when they would obtain any favour as if they meant to force it threatning not to loose it till he grant them what they demand They intended I say to bind S. Anthony that he might give us a good wind but forbore to do it upon the Pilot's instance who pass'd his word for the Saint telling them that he was so honest that without being bound or captivated he would do what they desir'd This manner of demanding of favours of S. Antonio of Padua is much in use amongst the Portugals especially the meaner sort of ignorant and superstitious Mariners though amongst us 't is a vain thing A barbarous Superstition indeed but yet such as sometimes through the faith and simplicity of those that practise it uses to be heard December the twenty eighth We had a wind sufficiently brisk and impetuous yet not only not favourable but altogether contrary so that we could neither bear up against it nor yet cast anchor because we were in the main Sea which growing rough and tempestuous we were forc't to furl our sails and suffer the Ship to be driven whither the wind pleas'd which was Southwards not without fear falling upon Mombaza or some other remote Coast of Africk and consequently suffering shipwrack and a thousand other Dysasters December the twenty ninth The Captain with the others of the Ship resolv'd at length to bind S. Anthony and as chance would have it it prov'd well for the wind chang'd and we sail'd prosperously in our right course all day and part of the night A little before mid-night we discover'd the Coast of Arabia so neer that we cast anchor in haste for fear of the Shallows which are thereabouts In the morning we saw the Land naked both of Trees and Grass but rather stony in appearance and Desart although it was part of that Arabia which they call Happy December the thirtieth We began to move forward East South-East having the Land on the left hand but a sudden contrary wind arising forc't us to cast anchor again in the place where we were not without danger for in the furling of the sail through the negligence of the Sea-men it wrapt about the Mast the wind blowing very furiously against the fore-deck so that had the Vessel been less sound and strong-sided or some of the Passengers less diligent to help it had been overturn'd and sunk like the Ship of Orontes in the shipwrack of Aeneas which Virgil describes to have been lost by the like casualty At night the contrary wind ceasing we proceeded in our intended course December the one and thirtieth The wind failing we cast anchor but in an unsecure place not without danger of being split upon the shore whither in spight of our anchors the wind hurri'd us but tacking about we got to a more secure place near that from whence we had mov'd the day before On the first of January and of the year 1625 We stood at anchor till night and then made a little progress but all the next day we stood at anchor again and took very good fish and at night a little wind blowing from the Land we went forwards now and then but very little January the eighth Having all the preceding days been about the Coast of Arabia casting anchor every day and weighing again at night during which a Boat of Arabians brought us much fresh fish and an Arabian came swimming to us a great way only to beg a little Rice and Bisket which we gave him at length having a good wind this day after noon we pass'd a Cape which they call Capo falso because 't is neer and resembles the Cape Raselhhad but is not it At night we passed by the True Cape call'd by the Arabians Raselhhad that is the Cape of the Confine because 't is the last and most Southern Cape of Arabia being as they say in the latitude of twenty two degrees and a half from the Aequinoctial Northwards and distant from Mascat whither we were going forty leagues the Portugals call it corruptly Capo di Rosalgate Having pass'd this Cape we steer'd Northwest
to the Governor and also to a Jew his Minister which was afterwards given to them both After dinner Captain Fort Commander of the French Ship S. Anne wherein I was to imbarque came a shore and I agreed with him to go aboard that night though he puposed to stay two or three dayes longer in expectation of more lading before he set sail Accordingly after I had written to Aleppo and supp'd in the House of Sig Antonio Grandi I was carry'd aboard by the said Captain with all my people and onely those few goods which I had brought with me from Aleppo leaving all the rest to be first receiv'd by the said Sig Antonio and then convey'd to me by Sea more at leisure Thus after many years I quitted the Continent of Asia with a certain Resolution never to set foot upon it again unless arm'd and began my Voyage towards my desired Italy there being with me of Women Batoni Mariam Tinatin a Giorgian Virgin and faithful Companion of most of my Peregrinations Eugenia an Indian Maid of Scilan and of Men F. Fra Gregorio Orsino Vicar General of Armenia and my Servants Michel di Bengala commended to me at Goa by Sig Antonio Barraccio Giovan Robehh a Chaldean of Kiumalava and the two Syrians recommended to me by that Arch-Bishop namely Abdisciva and Hendi Nestorians August the nine and twentieth All my other goods together with the Coffin of Sitti Maani conceal'd in a ball of Cotton yarn were imbarqu'd thanks be to God without any disturbance The next day I took the height of the Sun in the Port of Alexandretta and found him decline at noon from the Zenith 28 degrees He was that day in the degree of Virgo The same day by the advice of Sig Antonio Grandi to prevent all further troubles which might arise from new searching of my goods and payment of half Gabels in case I should exchange the Ship wherein I was for a Flemish Vessel call'd the Neptune as I had formerly intended to do at Cyprus I determin'd to continue in the same Ship till I came either to Malta or Sicily and the rather because the Captain was a Person to my liking and all his people honest Catholicks with whom I promis'd my self most satisfaction Besides though the Flemish Ship was greater better arm'd and accompany'd with two others and consequently as to danger of Pirats more safe yet 't was known too that the Flemmings were at Truce with the Pirats and sometimes will not fight with them but being secure not to lose any thing of their own use to submit to them and let them take all the goods of other people that they have in their Ships without the least contest So that I had some reason not to trust my self with them although much perswaded thereunto by the Master of the Ship because perhaps in such case they would not have much car'd for securing me whom they hated upon the account of Religion On the other side though the French Ship wherein I imbarqu'd was small and unprovided of Artillery yet it was an excellent Sailer and safe enough from being overtaken by any Pirate provided it descry'd him first at a little distance and had but the least advantage For which purpose a Man was constantly plac'd upon the main-sail to make discoveries and as for being surpriz'd by the Pirats without fore-seeing them as 't was possible we might be in a Morning at day-break falling among them unawares so we hop'd God would preserve us from such misfortune Of this change of my Resolution I gave account in my Letters to Aleppo and I mention it here to the end that it may appear that my passing into Italy in so small and disarm'd a Ship was not folly or rashness as perhaps it may otherwise seem but a considerate determination prudently made upon weighty and important Reasons Accordingly after Sig Antonio Grandi had presented us many refreshments for the Voyage the same Evening a little before night we set sail September the first In the Evening we pass'd by Capo Chanzir or as 't is now commonly call'd Capo Porco lying thirty miles from Alexandretta and the next Evening we discover'd the Island of Cyprus where we were to touch and stay some dayes September the third In the Morning we doubled the Cape of S. Andrea on the South of the said Island being to put in at Porto della Saline or the Port of the Salt-pits which is now the principal and most frequented landing-place of Cyprus September the fourth We enter'd the said Port which lyes on the South part of Cyprus in a large Bay surrounded with Land spacious and secure enough for all sort of Ships It lyes two hundred miles from Alexandretta and is the Port where the Turkish Army landed when they took the Island As soon as we had enter'd we were visited in the Ship by Sig Dimitrio Todorini a prime Greek Merchant but not a Cypriot who offer'd me his House and Sig Giovan Francesco Parente a Venetian my ancient Friend and correspondent in Aleppo from whence upon certain discontents befallen him there he had betaken himself hither who visited me not onely upon his own account but also in the Name of Sig Alessandro Goneme the Venetian Consul in that Island who excus'd his not coming in Person for that he was just then call'd away by the Cadhi upon a certain business September the fifth The said Venetian Consul with Sig Parente and some others of his House visited me in the Ship And though I intended not to go ashore notwithstanding all his intreaties and invitations yet he resolutely refus'd to depart till I went with him Wherefore I obey'd him and went onely with one servant leaving F. Orsino and the Women in the Ship On the seaside I found some few dwellings and magazines or storehouses which are those that they properly call delle Saline from the Salt-pits hard by where the Turks have a small square Castle with a Plat-form and Artillery to guard the Sea but of little importance Here taking Horse we rode a little mile within Land to another Village call'd Larnaca where the Franks live for the most part and there we alighted at the Consul's House And because it was yet early after a little repose we went to the Franciscan's Church call'd Santa Maria and there heard Mass which was sung with the Office pro mortuis for the Soul of Sig Giovan Maria Parente Brother to Sig Francesco who the day before pass'd to a better Life In the Evening I visited Sig Dimitrio Todorini in his own House and lodg'd in that of the Consul I will not omit that the Venetians have alwayes a Consul at Cyprus who is not of the Nobility but of the Order of Eminent Citizens whereof many Secretaries of the Republick use to be so that though the Consul of Cyprus be not dependent upon him of Aleppo as Vice-Consuls are yet he of Aleppo as noble and a more principal Minister in these
perhaps as he said not in this world for 't was four years since he had heard any News of me he receiv'd me with extream kindness and gladness After we had given one another account of many things and I had been complemented by Sig Paolo his Nephew and others that were with him I told him that I had in the Galley Batoni Mariam Tinatin my spiritual Daughter and should be glad that before we departed as I thought to do with the same Gallies for Messina that she saw the Church and something of Syracuse The Bishop presently sent Signora Maria his Brother's Wife and Mother of Sig Paolo with two of her Daughters to fetch my Women from the Galley in a Coach and Sig Paolo the Receiver of Malta and my self went in another Coach to fetch them on Land After these Gentlewomen had receiv'd them with many Complements we all went together to the Nunns Church of S. Lucie where we stay'd till evening the Nunns being much delighted to behold the strange habits of my Women and to discourse with them by Interpreters In the mean time many people flock'd into the Church to see them and several Cavaliers came to complement me and make themselves known to me It being late we were accompani'd by many Gentry and people to the Palace where my Women were receiv'd by the Bishop with much Courtesie And being the Galleys were to depart for Messina this very night I desir'd leave of the Bishop to return aboard again but he would by no means grant it saying that since I was come to see him it was not fit that I should embitter his joy with so sudden a departure much less when S. Lucy's day was so near at hand for which those that are remote use to go to Syracuse and that I was the more oblig'd to stay because I had once promis'd him by a Letter as indeed I had to come to Syracuse and spend a S. Lucy's day with him so that since chance had brought it thus to pass I must needs make my word good I answer'd many things and did all I could to get away but to no purpose for the Bishop sen the Receiver to get all my goods out of the Galley for which end was necessary for the gate of the City to be kept open a good part of the night contrary to custom and besides having caus'd a very noble Apartment to be got ready for me in the new building of his Palace he would by all means have us all lodge there Wherefore seeing his pleasure was such I thought fit to obey him and accept the favour The Gentlemen and Gentlewomen after some discourse departed and we were conducted to our apartment where because the Bishop eats not at night he left us to sup and rest The two Galleys which brought us depart this night for Messina and with them F. Orisno my late Fellow-traveller who will deliver you this Letter which I conclude this Evening not omitting to acquaint you with my tarrying here for some days to the end you may understand my deliverance and the good issue of my health and so praying God for the like to you I very heartily kiss your hands LETTER XV. From Messina January 24. 1626. IN continuation of my last to you concerning the favours I receiv'd from my Lord the Bishop of Syracuse I must tell you in the first place that on the fifth of December we were conducted by a great company of Gentry of both Sexes out of the City to several reliques of ancient Syracuse We saw the Artificial Echo reported to have been made by Dionysius in a Prison where he kept many slaves to hear what they talkt within and if I mistake not Archimedes seems to have been the contriver of the Fabrick 'T is indeed one of the goodliest pieces of Art that I ever saw in the world and perhaps was ever invented imitating nature so exactly that the Echo returns words sentences sounds and songs most intire and perfect as was prov'd in our presence with sundry Instruments If a man strike a thick extended cloth with a wand it renders a sound like the shot of Artillery which to be done so well in a Grotto form'd not by Nature but by Art is indeed a strange thing and shews a prodigious wit in the Contriver I must not omit that the roof of this grotto is hollow'd in the form of a man's ear from which probably the Artificer borrow'd the Invention since just as the voice striking the ears which are so shap'd renders the sound audible so 't is seen by experience that this great artificial Ear cut by hand in hard stone being struck in like manner produces the same effect of augmenting a sound although we know not but other Natural Echoes in Caves are fram'd after the same manner Near the place of the Echo we saw the subterranean Cavities wherein the slaves were imprison'd and over them the place of Dionysius's Palace in a very goodly situation with a Prospect extending far both on Land and Sea And near the Palace we beheld many remainders of his great Theater which was not built up like other Structures but cut and hollow'd out of the hard stone all of a piece very large and of excellent Architecture As we return'd home we saw contiguous to the City on one side the Port which they call'd Marmoreo or the Marble Port from its being built all of Stone and differing from the other great one which lies under the City on the other side for at this day the City stands wholly in the Peninsula Ortygia which is almost surrounded by the Sea saving where it joyns to the Land by a narrow Euripus December 8th I accompani'd the B p to the Church of S. Francis whither because it was the Feast of the Conception he went to hear Mass being attended by the Senate and all the Nobility of the City After which I went with divers Gentlemen my Friends to see the Church of S. Lucy without the City in the place where she was martyr'd which Church though sometimes it belong'd to Priests yet is now possess'd by reform'd Franciscan Fryers Under the Church we saw certain grottoes extending to a great distance every way under ground and made I know not whether for Sepulchres of the Ancients or for places of Refuge in times of danger December 9th Two Galleys of Malta which came from Messina with Provisions for the Iland enter'd the Port in one of which was their present General Sig Don Francesco Caraffa Prior della Roccella and Son of the Prince della Roccella who had lately founded this Priorate della Roccella at his own charge always to remain in his own Family though after his death if I am rightly inform'd it shall be no longer a Priorate or Grand Cross but only a Commendum December the tenth Accompani'd by Sig. Paolo Faraone I visited the said Prior della Roccella in his own Galley having seen him several times
Jesuits in Sicily in a Church call'd Our Lady delle Gratie I went to see the Capuchins Church the Streets of the City the Castle and whatever was remarkable which was very little January the sixteenth The weather continuing foul with snow the Captains upon consultation resolv'd to return back to Syracuse because the Galleys had not provision enough for a longer stay Wherefore after dinner we set sail back again and arriv'd before night at Syracuse whereof the Bishop being advertis'd sent Sig Paolo Faraone to fetch me and Sig Maria to conduct my women to his House January the nineteenth The weather becoming good the General sent us sudden notice that he would depart immediately as accordingly we did and at night enter'd the Port of Augusta because it was again become somewhat tempestuous The next Evening we departed from Augusta and sail'd all night with a bad wind which forc't us to make use of our Oars January the twenty first At day-break we came before Capo grosso about twenty miles from Messina and continuing our course arriv'd at Messina before Noon At the mouth of the Port we were question'd by the Commissioners of Health who were very rigorous here and indeed were to be commended for it since had it not been for the exact diligence of Messina in this matter the present Pestilence of Sicily might easily have infected all Italy for Card. Dona and others that govern'd at Palermo to avoid damnifying that City by loss of Trade have hazarded the safery not only of the whole Kingdom as is manifestly seen but also of all Italy by concealing the Plague of Palermo as much as they could instead of remedying the Infection by such severe and rigorous courses as was fit namely by burning infected Goods and the like yea they rather maintain'd that the Plague was not there when it was there and requir'd prattick to be given them everywhere procuring Orders from Spain for that purpose by which means many other places of Sicily are become infected and the Plague which had fit means been us'd perhaps would soon have been extinguisht hath continu'd above two years and continues still the Orders of the Viceroy and the Court of Spain promoting the spreading thereof in despight of all Only the City of Messina hath the glory of withstanding so great mischief for the publick safety Whilst we were under examination expecting Bills for Prattick against night I advertis'd Sig Francesco Faraone and Sig Don Palmieri di Giovanni my ancient Friends of my coming who in the Evening when Prattick was granted us came with other Gentlemen and Gentlewomen in Coaches to the shore-side to receive me and Sig Maria. After I had taken leave of the General and all the Knights of the Gallies I went ashore and was accompany'd by the said Gentlemen to the House of Sig Francesco Faraone where taking up my Residence I have been visited by most Persons of quality in the City as also Sig Maria hath been by many Ladies we also returning visits to all to whom we owed them January the five and twentieth Sig Don Giov. Bisogni a Cavalier of Messina Cousin to the Bishop of Syracuse and Husband of Donna Margarita Faraone whom I left at Catania with three of her Sons dying at Messina his Son Don Francesco who alone was here at his Father's death according to the custom of this City as soon as his Father expir'd went out of the House leaving it and the Body yet unburi'd to the care of other kinred and retyr'd to the House of Sig Franc. Faraone wherein I lodg as his nearest Kinsman and here he receives condoling visits and remaines till his Father's Body be buri'd and the House purifi'd and fitted with mourning which I mention as a custom not practis'd by us at Rome We have been to see the Bodies of San Placido and other Saints with all the other Reliques of Messina which were shewn us near the High Altar where they are kept very conveniently I have also heard one of the Moral Lectures of Sig Antonio Mazzapinta a Famous Philosopher and Publick Reader in Messina Which Lecture as also many others he read in his Extraordinary House for his own pleasure and that of the Curious Here I arrest my Pen this Letter being the last of my Oriental Voyages If it please God I shall shortly entertain you viva voce in the mean time I commit you to his Providence and kiss your Hands An account of my Arrival and Residence at Naples in the House of Sig Maria Schipano JAnuary the thirtieth Having hir'd two Felluca's for Naples and embarqu'd all our goods with good Bills of Health which in regard of Maani's Body which I carry'd with me were more then necessary and my Friends at Messina had procur'd to my satisfaction in the Morning we set sail from Messina with a good wind being accompany'd to the boat by many Persons of quality of both Sexes from whom we separated with much tenderness We pass'd the Pharo between Caribdis and Scilla the Sea being sufficiently rough though the wind favorable On the left hand at a good distance we left the Island of Strongile Vulcano and other places at night arriving at Trupia where because they refus'd to give us Prattick alledging that this was no Landing-place in these infectious times and that certain Landing-places were appointed for Passage-Vessels upon the Coast of Calabria where alone Prattick was to be had we kept out at Sea all night and pass'd il Pizzo January the one and thirtieth We pass'd by Mantea and other places at noon arriving at Paola where I went ashore A little without the City amongst the little Hills we saw the Church of S. Francis of Paola which is delicately seated amongst goodly Trees and Brooks which run between the Hills We saw the Reliques the Chappel of the Marquis Lord of the place and his Sepulchres the Lime-kiln where S. Francis did a miracle the Fountain and the Grotto wherein he lived with all other things remarkable after which we lodg'd in an Hostery or Inn upon the shore February the first Having heard Mass in a little Church there we left Paola and passing by Scoglio del Marchese and other Islands in the Evening we supp'd at Sea under Belvedere and sailing all night the next day we din'd on Land at Camerota from whence we sail'd and came to an Anchor in the Port of Palinuro which place I beheld with pleasure through the delightfull remembrance of Virgil's Verses which relate the misfortune of the Pilot Palniurus and with-all give immortal fame to the place February the fourth We departed from Palinuro and lodg'd on shore at Acciaruolo where Passengers are notoriously abus'd by being constrain'd to lodg in a lewd Inn there and pay the Host what he pleases to demand who is also to pay the Lord of the place what Rent he desires The next day we pass'd the Gulph of Salerno and bocche di Capri arriving late in the Port