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A61855 The perillous and most unhappy voyages of John Struys Through Italy, Greece, Lifeland, Muscovia, Tartary, Media, Persia, East-India, Japan, and other places in Europe, Africa and Asia. Containing, I. Most accurate remarks and observations of the distinct qualities, religion, politie, customs, laws and properties of the inhabitants: II. A due description of the several cities, towns, forts, and places of trust, as to their site and strength, fortifications by nature, or art, &c. with other things worthy of note: and, III. An exact memorial of the most disastrous calamities which befell the author in those parts (viz) by ship-wrack, robberies, slavery, hunger, tortures, with other incommodities and hardships. To which are added 2 narrativs sent from Capt. D. Butler, relating to the taking in of Astrachan by the Cosacs. Illustrated with divers curious plates, first designed and taken from the life by the author himself. Rendered out of Nether-dutch by John MorrisonĀ·; Reysen door Moscovien, Tartarijen, Oost-Indien. English Struys, Jan Janszoon, d. 1694.; Morrison, John, 17th cent.; Butler, David, Captain. 1684 (1684) Wing S6019; ESTC R216963 334,708 398

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them to proceed on their Journey thither They thanked us for our Advice and directed their Course for Terky that being also a good Market We agreed among our selves to follow the like course with intent at least to supply our want of Provision not knowing whether the Town was taken in by the Cosacks or that it was still under the Emperour About 9 in the Evening we anchored before the Town and immediately upon our anchorage saw 10 or 12 Soldiers come rowing towards us but when they came nigh saw that we were well armed offered not to do any violent Act but only asked us Who we were and From whence we came We answered That we were Hollanders belonging to his Majesties great Ship at Astrachan and were come thither to sound the Bay and Haven Ho! Ho! said they are you those men You must come before the Lord Deputy hereupon we made answer That it was then too late but the next Morning betimes we would wait upon his Excellency With this answer they seem'd to be satisfied but we thought it not safe for us to tarry there long but before creek of day we loosed and set our course S. and by W. Terky is situate in 43 degr and 27 min. about an English league from the strand It has been 3 times surveyed and laid out The first time by the Russes themselves the second time by one Cornelius Claasz a Dutch Ingenieur about the year 1636 who also strengthned the said Town with Walls and Bulwarks after the modern way of Fortification and in the year 1670 it was survey'd and fortified anew by Colonel Baily an English Gentleman with huge strong Bulwarks and and a wide and deep Mote encompassing it quite round The City is seated in a Champan Countrey without either Wood or Hill so far as one can view The River is also called Terky by the Moscovians but by the Inhabitants Timenky The Banks lying upon the Sea are all grown over with Canes and rough Terky is a place of great Trust being the Kay or Barricado of the Czars Dominions for it lies on the Frontiers of the Russian Territories and for that end has always a Garrison of 2000 Strelitzers All the night it blew very hard and in the morning we saw land on each side The Island which lay on the Larboard side we called Meynders Island because he was the first that discovered it We steered directly through the Islands and when we were about 20 leagues within the Bay we discovered high land which we afterward knew to be the famous Caucasus and Ararat which also border and extend to the Circas Hills and sailing a litle further we found that we were near the Quick-sands so that we were fain to tack about and bear up to the Channel where coming we sounded and found it 2 fathom and a good sandy ground Being just got thorow the straits or narrow Channel we looked about and discovered a great Bark making up toward us with all the Sail they could which afterwards we understood was sent by order of the Governour of Terki to pursue us having 62 Soldiers and all well armed aboard with a charge from the Governour to give us no quarter but to hack us in pieces and to bring back the Shallop and Goods to Terky We seeing them in a full pursuit thought it no time to dally but laboured as hard as we could till we got the Island Sierlan where we came to Anchor and the Bark seemed to give over their chace On the 18 ditto betimes in the morning we set Sail and indeavoured to gain the High land which before the Evening came on we did putting in at a River and were assured that we were not within the Jurisdiction of the Czar which is bounded by the Timenki The Circas Dominion begins at the Timenki and is bounded from Nagaya by the Step and from the Dagestan-Tartars by the River Bustro The Countrey is very fertile producing good store both of Fruit and Grain and is also good Pasture-ground The men are very corpulent and withall robust have broad-faces but not square like the Calmucs or Crims they are of a swarthy yellow complexion and shave their Heads and Beards after a strange manner Cross over the head they make a bare stroak and yet let a tuft grow in the Crown and on each side it hangs down in two great bushes which sometimes they let hang loose and sometimes plate They wear gray Felt-coats with a mantle of the same which is rough without this they hang slovenly about the neck made fast with a great button that they can turn it which way they list and make it serve for a Buckler against the Wind. They sometimes wear Bonnets made of cloath which they fold into a square figure that they look like Jesuits Caps when they wear them They are a surly ill-natured people and blockish not fit to converse with but yet more friendly than the Calmucs They seldom appear abroad without their Horses upon which they seem as if they were planted Their Arms are a kind of Musquet but the Long-bow is with them more in use which they can handle with great dexterity CHAP. XVII They Author and his Company err in their Course They meet with a Cosac-Bark A great Tempest The Beginning and Limits of the Dagestan-Tartars Their Posture or Frame of Body Habit and Way of Living They are great Plagiaries The Barrenness of the Dagestan Mountains Another great Tempest The Shallop run astrand and is spied by the Tartars who plunder them The strange way of electing the Dagestan Kings They are assailed by another Company who ravish the Woman in presence of her Husband and convert them all to Slaves The Author tortured to detect his Companions which he manfully endures They are brought before the Osmyn and chained ON the 19 ditto we set sail and directed our course towards the Island Tzetzien which we sailed past and had Tzierlan to the leeward having very misty weather all the while which dured 24 hours or more The next morning it cleared up and we got sight of the high Circas Mountains which we aimed at if possible to come nearer the shoar so to coast it all along after we had laboured and lay beating in the Wind about 3 or 4 hours we saw a long neck of Land which we took for an Island and indeavouring to sail through a narrow passage we found our selves in a Quicksand so that we were fain to tack about having sail'd the whole day in vain and at the dawning of the day we came into the Channel which was a good sandy ground and fit for Anchorage Here we met with a Bark having about 60 or 70 Men on board who called to us and prayed us to help them afloat pretending they were aground and fast among the sands which some of our Company would have done but the major part were for the Negative and so oversway'd the rest
four Galleys ready upon all Occasions for Defence of the Havens besides a considerable number more which they have in their Arsenal in good equippage these are often imployed as Auxiliaries for the Venetians against the Turks On the Sea-side stands a Watch-Tower on which by night they set a Beacon and just at the Entrance of the Haven stands a huge piece of Ordnance mounted upon a Carriage continually guarded with a Sentinel The Dukes Person is guarded with a Body of 500 Soldiers who with their Colonel have a place allotted them in the Palace The City is generally well built with stately Houses and magnificent Structures more especially on that side which is seated near the Sea having besides the more eminent Hostels and Public Buildings 30 fair Parish Churches of which that dedicated to St. Laurence claims the priority as Cathedral In the Church dedicated to the H. Eucharist they show'd us a Key made of an Emerald being of the unusual bignes that ●t's worth may not be computed Coming to the Church of St. Bartholomew we saw a handkercheif with which they told us our Saviour wiped the sweat from his face and as they say has done abundance of Miracles The City is very populous their Merchants rich and numerous and their Manufactury also very considerable especially in Velvets there being according to the relation given us above 8000 Looms in the Town so that considering the Magnificency of Building the Riches of her Merchants Commodiousness of Situation and Splendor of her Court and Palace may be reckoned as a Town of the first Magnitude On the 12 of April we set sail directing our course for Velez Malaga where on the 15 we arrived On the 18 we hoised sail and made for Malaga and on the 24 came to cast anchor in the Bay where almost all the Banditti were set ashoar Here we took in a hundred Pipes of Wine with candied Fruits and other Refreshments for the sick On the 29 of May we weighed Anchor and with a brisk gale of Wind reached the Straits mouth on the 2 of Iune When we were past Gibralter we steer'd our Course towards the Salt Islands which was designed for another place of Refreshment from whence we gathered that our Voyage must needs be longer than at first we thought for till then none aboard the ship unless the Officers knew whither we were bound or upon what account we were sent out On the fourth of Iune we met with 9 Turkish Men of War about the 3d. Watch in the night who Hail'd us asking from whence our ship we answered From Genua and asked them From whence they were they made answer From Argiers Our Commander hearing that unwelcome Eccho was not a little alarm'd and could have wish'd himself at a further distance however he resolves to exchange a ball or two with them by break of day and in order thereto gets all in a readiness commands every man to his Post and gave us all the courage he could by his own Example The Corsairs who although better man'd and mounted than we had no great stomach to go so early to breakfast for observing such marks of Courage in our Officers and that they were absolutely resolved to fight'um made all the sail they could and left us On the 14 we pass'd the Flemmish Islands and on the 6 of July we arrived at Boa Vista where we came to Anchor in the Bay On this Island were several of the Banditti who brought us such Provision as they had aboard we took in also ten boats of salt About this Island is such plenty of Fish that at one draught we got 1500 Corcoads and Salmon-Fry Boa Vista is one of those Islands which are called Cabo Verdo Islands having obtained that appellation from it's delectable prospect from the Seaward and lies 7 leagues to the northward of Ilha del Sal and is reckoned to be about 20 leagues in circumference stretched out in length South-east and North-west That part which lies near the sea is all sandy and hilly ground but within altogether montanous and high land On the north end is a long Bank near half a league in length which repelleth the billows of the sea with great violence There are yet besides this several other Foords which are often the occasion of Shipwrack On the South is also another where the Rocks sometimes appear above water and points out towards the East and E. and by North. The best and safest place to come to Anchor in is at the Southwest Point where is a very commodious Road for Ships of the greatest burthen having at lest 16 or 17 fathom Water and a fine sandy ground In this Road we lay at anchor 6 days and then set sail for Majo St. Iago Fuogo and Brava which are the nearest Islands to Boa Vista The Island Majo lies about nine leagues S. S. W. or rather mo● Westerly from Boa Vista and is the smallest of all the rest being about 7 leagues round Within land are several steep hills and on the North a Plain about a league in breadth from whence reaches out a long Bank towards the North-east and another towards the West which cause impetuous Breaches of the Sea and consequently great danger for Ships that sail that way The Island is almost round in circumference having its breadth and length almost equal and is full of small Capes or Promontories which make so many Inlets The common Road belonging to this Island is on the South-west Coast where you have 15 and 16 fathom Water and a sandy ground having the Western point of the Island at N. and by W. and another Point at E. S. E. and the South end of St. Iago S. W. On the North side of the Island behind a litle black Cape lies a small Bay or Road for Anchorage at 5 or 6 fathom water and upon the lowest point on the East is a Village of 10 or 12 houses This Island is very rocky high and dry having litle grass upon it but what grows in the clefts of the Rocks It is also very barren of Fruit neither Lemmons nor Oranges will like there nor no other fruit whatsoever unles sigs and those by reason of the drought of the Season and Ground seldom ever come to maturity or return to profit There are in this Island some Cotton-trees and good plenty of Goats so that there are many thousands of those Hides transported yearly from hence There are also some wild Horses Kine and Asses good plenty of Fowl as Patridge Heath-hens Bustards Wild-geese and other Fowl not known with us in Europe There are also many Saltpans on this Island where the Salt by the Ground Water and the Ingress of the Sea with the help of the Sun is well concreted yet is somewhat too yellow in colour The Inhabitants are a mixt folk of Negros and others who follow Goat hunting using Wolves in stead of Dogs Some also follow the
Fishing trade and find great plenty of Cyprins Dorades and other Fish St. Iago is the greatest and chief of the Cabo Verdo Islands being about 12 leagues in length lying South-East and North-west The South-east Cape thereof hath the Road of the Island Majo on the West and W. and by N. about 5 leagues distant The high Land of St. Iago lies from the Road of Majo directly West but the middle thereof South-west from Boa Vista or rather more Westerly and from the Salt Island S. W. and by S. about 25 Leagues From the South-west Angle the coast stretches it self forth 2 leagues South-west where there is a small Hamlet called Praye situated in a commodious place between two Hills and environed with 2 Rivers which running into the Sea do make two handsom Bays one whereof is called Porto de Praye and has room enough to contain an hundred Ships which may safely ride at Anchor without damnifying each other having 14 fathom water and shot-free from Land as also the benefit of a small Island which breaks off the wind Sailing past Porto de Praye before you come at the Town is a Cape or small Promontory which the Portugeezes call Capo de Tubarao On the West whereof is another Bay called Porto de Ribeirra Corea which also is very fitly seated between two Hills and a River that runs through the midle rising from a fountain about 2 leagues from thence and disgorging it self into the Sea by a mouth about a Bow-shot in breadth In the North is also another Haven called St. Mary On the Island St. Iago are yet two Towns of note whereof the one is called St. Thomas very well seated the other St. Iago or St. Iames which is built upon a rising Ground This is the Metropolis of all the Towns of these Islands where is also the Residence and Palace of their Bishop Towards the West on an Angle of the Island is a Fortress two leagues from Porto de Praye where Ships come to anchor and North-west from this Angle another Haven known by the name of Porto de Canisos This Island is very fertile and abounds with fruit of several kinds as on each side the Rio de Corea grow great plenty of Cocos Oranges Citrons other Fruit-trees as also some Cedars Besides this it affoards good store of Rice Maïs and other grain as also Cattel both for work and slaughter Ilha del Fuogo or The Isle of Fire probably has that name from one of it's Mountains which continually sends forthflames by some intestin Fire It lies in 14 degr 20 min. Northerly Latitude and 12 leagues from the South-west point of St. Iago North-west on the West-side is a Bay and a small castle seated at the foot of a hill but the violent course of the stream renders the haven unapt to receive any Shipping Those that would enter the Bay must steer their course to the North of this Island and so about About 4 leagues South-west of Ilha del Fuogo lies Ilha del Brava that is VVild or Desert Island with two or three small Islands on the North thereof On the West-side is a Creek very convenient for such as have occasion to take in water but the best haven is on the South-east side where it is 15 fathom deep and a Ship of the greatest burthen may come to anchor close to the Kay Above this Harbour is a Hermitage and a Village very well peopled This Island is also fruitfull enough having good store of figs Mulberrys Water-Melons and Indian wheat but far inferiour to Mayo and St Iago for cattel The Air of these Islands is generally unwholsom so that the inhabitants are very subject to Feavers Aches and Fluxes These Islands lying between the Aequator and the Tropic of Cancer affoard the People two Summers every year the Sun passing twice directly over their heads When the sun enters into Cancer which is in the end of Iune the season is very intemperate with Storms Winds Thunder and Lightning continuing so till the midle of October the● the Portugueezes call the Rain moneths They have certain tokens whereby they know when this Season approaches as high Southe●ly Winds which blow along the Coast and the Salt which begin to dissolve with the Billows rolling out of the Sea On the 14 we left the Salt Islands and set sail for Sierra Liones and made land on the 2d of August hearing at a great distance the Wind roaring from the Mountains which by the reason of their Concavity do make a great buzzing when it blows hard that perhaps has given them the name of Sierra Liones or Lioness Mountai● A litle before the evening we came with our Boat close to the shore where we heard a most terrible Noise occasioned by an impetuou● and continual beating of the billows through the cleft of a Rock which was so loud that we could hardly hear one another spea● Sierra Liones takes it's beginning from Cabo de Virgin and stretches● self so far out as Cabo Tagrin or Lede which is also by some call● Cabo de Sierra Liones lying in 8 Degr. and 13 Min. Northerly Latitude and by reason of it's height is easily distinguished from that Continent which lies to the Northward of this Promontory the more because it reaches further Seaward The South and South and by E. part of this Land lies toward the Sea and is high and hilly but the land of the Cape towards the North for the most part level and marshy There are 13 Rivulets which coming from the Land run through these Mountains and so empty themselves in the Ocean and have on their banks plenty of Fruit-trees as Oranges Pome-Citrons and the like On the 3 of August we arrived in the Bay of Sierra Liones Immediately upon our arriving there the Commander sent the Shallop ashoar and such persons as he did think fit with Presents for the King which were 5 Barrs of Iron a Barrel of Brandy and another of Spanish Wine Those men that were nominated to deliver the Presents were courteously received by the King and his Court. We could not perceive any Mark of Superiority or Grandour in the Prince which might distinguish him from his Subjects no more than in Mr. Mayor of Stratford from his Worshipfull Brethren the Aldermen Yet found him much to vary from some other Soveraign Potentates who enrich themselves at the Cost and Penury of their Vassals The King and his Folk were equally insatiable and covetous for so soon as the King had received the Present he desired as much more which the Commander was content to send him that he might have the freedom to take in Water and Wood for Fewel as also to provide our selves with Oranges Lemmons and other Refreshments The Inhabitants which are called Caffers shew'd us no small Friendship for so long as our Penny lasted they never faild of a Pater noster bringing us every day good store of Fruit. When the
other Castle seeing the Venetians in possession of this put out the White Flag and desired Articles of Peace which after a short Treatie of Commissioners on both sides were signed existing mostly of the same Tenure with the former Tenedos lies near the coast of Anatolia and is called Bouchadde by the Turks It is of a fertile Soil and produces plenty of Fruit but especially Grapes and has good store of Melons and other delicacies which they have also in the Winter-season And according to it's small extent not exceeding 28 English miles in circuit has abundance of Cattel It is beset with Hills towards the Sea on every side but within arable and fit for tillage The General committed it to the Trust of Seignior Loredano a Gentleman of Venice with a Garrison of 700 Italians and others Tenedos being now in possession of the Venetians we set Sail for Scalimene or Lemnos which we found about 6 Leagues distant from the other being Seated directly before the mouth of the Channel and therefore a Place in which the Turks had reposed great Confidence This Island has severall small Towns upon it as Condea Cochino Palso Castro and others beside 75 Villages and Hamlets When we came before the Place in order to lay Siege to it we found a Fort having 700 men in Garrison but the Sou-bassa hearing that Tenedos was already taken in by the Christian Armade and finding himself incapable to defend the Place by reason that all communication was cut off he desired to treat by Deputies and without ever a shot surrendred the Fort and Island upon dishonourable Conditions Lemnos or Scalimene as it is now called has Thracia on the North and the Hill Athon towards the West and as we have said lies not far from Lemnos It is no whit inferior to any Island in the Aegean-Sea for a wholsom Air and a good Soil it affoards all kind of Grain and Puls as also Almonds Oil Lactuaries and plenty of Sheep which for their Wool is no small profit to the Inhabitants and from hence comes that excellent and usefull Earth called Terra Lemnia or Terra Sigillata which is so highly prized by those that profess Physic The Inhabitants and Peasantry are Greeks which may not live in any fortified Place In this Island has been a famous Labrynth whereof the Ruins yet appear in some places The chief City thereof is called also Scalimene and is indifferent strong When the General left the Island he constituted a Governour and sent some Ships to cruse through the Archipelago and urge the payment of the Arrearages in the Tributary Places of which the Venetians were now Masters and light also upon such as were free for so unhappy are the Islands of Greece that they must pay Tribute both to the Turks and Venetians which is a great oppression to so poor a People Greece is at this day as fertile as ever but is greatly deficient of it's former Power and Wealth by the Dominion of the Turks and perpetual Wars As for the People they are very urban and good ● converse with The Customary Habit of the Merchants and Citize● is as follows They wear on their Heads a long red Cap with a fold hanging down before and affect long hair although some I have seen shorn and with a Turbant like Mahometans Their Breeches long and narrow demitted to the calf of the leg and litle red boots above their stockings Above all a Coat like the Persians but without a Girdle In stead of a Cloak they wear a Coat with long narrow sleevs hanging down to the middle of the Thighs which they seldome or never put their arms into The Peasants also wear long red Caps as the Merchants and Citizens but wide linen or Cotton Breeches like Trouzers Their Gentlewomen wear a white Silk or Cotton Sharf about their Head hanging over their back and shoulders like Nuns Their Stockings are mostly scarlet and neatly embroyded their shoes with litle handsom heels and sometimes for their more easy going with slaps Those that are of ability wear a kind of Boddice or wast-coat of cloth of Gold and above that an upper-Coat with long Silk sleeves this is girded about the middle with Ribbons Some there are also which wear a short silk Jacket or Justicore coming down to the calf of the legs their shifts hanging down 2 palms below that Being now as we already told you sent to collect Tribute the first Island we came at was Pathmos the place where the H. Apostle Iohn and the beloved Disciple of our Lord was confined or banished to and where he wrote his Revelations When we went shoar they show'd us a litle Chappel in the cleft of a Rock which as the Greeks ascertain'd to us was the very place where he saw those Heavenly Visions as also a stone which lay above his Bed This ●tone the Greeks sell and make great profit of it being stampt into powder is reputed the best Remedy that ever was known for a Quartan Ague The City Pathmos is founded upon a Hill about the middle of the Island and has within it a very fair Monastery with the Tomb of Chrysolodos the Founder thereof The Island is both Fruitful populous and well built on the Sea-side is a litle strong Sconce to defend the place against Pyracy but when they heard of the Over●row of the Turks did not in the lest oppose themselves against us ●ing overaw'd by the Cadis When we had dispatched at Pathmos we steer'd away for Samos which is an Island right over against the Gulf of Smirna to see if we could meet with any Saiks or other Turkish Shipping and according ● our expectation met with two rich Prizes laden with raw Silk and other precious Commodities After we had Sail'd to and again for 5 or 6 days we came to Samos to demand the Contributions as at other places When we were arrived in this Road our Commander ●hought good to supply us with Water and other necessaries upon which I and 19 other of our Ships-folk were sent ashoar Ten of our Company were sent up to the Village to buy Provision and Refreshments and the rest amongst whom I my self was one were to take in Water and manage the Boat But hardly had we taken in two Boat-fulls but we saw a Brigandine making toward us stow'd full of Men whereupon we concluded it was no time to dally and therefore threw our Things aboard and betook our selvs to rowing as hard as we could drive towards the Ship But the Turks having far more hands than we and consequently swifter at rowing came in between us and the Ship which lay half a Dutch League from Land We then seeing litle hopes of getting aboard wheel'd about and made towards Land but were as hotly pursued by the Turks and seeing the Brigantine within pistol-shot of us astern we jump'd over board and betook our selves to running But when
King had received the double Present he insisted upon twice as much more before he would admitt of our coming ashoar This great incivility so inraged the Commander that he resolved to be revenged upon him and pursuant thereto sent the Long-boat ashoar to entreat him to come aboard where he should receive what his King ship desired The credulous Barbarian made no long pause in the matter but presently with a certain number of his Gentry stept into the Boat and so were brought aboard But his Retinue being too numerous the Commander having regard to our safety would not permit above 5 or 6 to come aboard The King was no sooner got aboard but he ran in all hast to the Great Cabin in hopes of some ample Gift but much mistaken for the Commander gave order that he should be fetter'd which was accordingly done and 4 men appointed to attend him The King was hereat mainly altered but afterward much more when he saw the Commander intended to hang him at the Yards arm which had certainly been had not the Master of the Ship undertaken the Office of a Mediator upon him and made intercession for his Life The Commanders wrath thus pacified he gave order to throw him over board which was immediately obey'd and executed by 4 of the Ships Company who threw him out at the Fore-castle Port But he was so well disciplin'd in swimming that he presently got ashoar His Retinue seeing that with all the hast they could betook themselves immediatly to their Canoes and made as if they would do some prodigious Feat or other or at lest obstruct our coming ashoar to take in what was necessary The Commander whose temper was too couragious to be daunted for a swarm of Flies sent two Boats ashoar to fetch Water and Wood both well Man'd and Arm'd and in spite of all their Force hew'd as much Wood and brought as much Water as they thought might serve our turn The Commander notwithstanding all this was not yet content but remanded the men and Shallops to pillage their Houses and Orchards and set the Kings Neger-house on fire all which they did in a moment The King seeing this thought it high time to put himself in a posture of Defence and in order to that musters up all the Forces he could on a sudden the whole Countrey being Alarmed and appear'd with a number of a Thousand Canoes or more half of each being loaden with Faggots whether to set our Ships on fire or to use them for Shields we could not determine however having obtained our ends we held it best to weigh Anchor and proceed on our Voyage rather than to incurr a needless unprofitable Ingagement with a Company of such contemptible Schoundrels In which Resolution we set sail directing our Course for Madagascar Before we were got out of sight of Sierra Liones we met with a small Flyboat which Traded along that Coast whereof one Iohn Backer of Durgerdam was Master The Master came and proffered his Ship and service to our Commander and Vice-Admiral to conduct us over the Foords and shallow Places of the Red sea and to make use of his Vessel as an advice Yacht But our Ship-master disswaded them to accept of his Tender whereupon he declared that he was unwilling and so declined his Favour This Master had the like Rescontre with that Kings Majesty and for his Churlishness gave him a toss as he told us out of the Cabin-port so that it seem'd a Paradox to us that he would be so void of Prudence as to hazard himself a second time being once before in jeopardy of his Life Sierra Liones both in regard of its ' Copiousness of Fruit and Plenty of Good Water is a very proper place to put in at for Refreshment It abounds with Millets Oranges Lemmons Banans Cocos Wild Grapes and abundance of many other sorts of Fruits as also Sugar canes and a kind of Long pepper It affoards besides Fruit-trees good Timber and Ingredients very usefull in Dying but by reason of our short aboad and want of opportunity to make inspection into the Countrey we could not inform our selves what Product the Land affoarded as peculiar to it self nor to make any advantage of our Landing there except our Refreshment There is good store of Fish and Oysters which ly very thick in the clefts of the Rocks and are extraordinary large and good 'T is true if any be necessitated to put in there for fresh Water they need not be at a loss for there are all along the Coast many choice Rivers which are pure Rain-water that comes from the Mountains but in the Month of May the beginning of the Rain season it is very unwholsom and unapt for use as our Masters Mate told me who was well acquainted with those Parts and is frequently the Occasion of Feavers Fluxes and other perrillous distempers and not only so but is so venemous that where it falls upon the skin of one who is not used to that Climat will cause Tumors and Ulcers and breeds a kind of worm or moth in cloaths which may serve for a Caveat to such as shall be forced to make use of it about that time of the year although it be approved good when it is some days old as if the venemous property were vanished with keeping The Inhabitants are not altogether black but tawny and their bodies cauterized in many places with hot Irons The tips of their Ears and their noses are bored through and hung with Jewels which they hold for passing rare Ornaments Both Men and Women go naked and use no manner of Vesture save only a furcingle or towel made of the barks of Trees which it seems for modesty sake they wear about their Middle Those that inhabit those parts which lie further within Land are Cannibals or Men-eaters but such as dwell near the Sea more civiliz'd and flexible to commerce with Europeans and other Strangers The King with whom we were concern'd was an old ill visaged and homely Man in a Garb tolerably handsom after the Moorish fashion having also a kind of a hat of a grayish colour but neither he nor any of his Retinue had either shoes or stockings but such as they came into the World with CHAP. II. Arrival at Madagascar The remarkable Chance of the Commander meeting with the King The Death of the Vice Commander Benning and the disorders thence arising Both the Ships put in a Fighting Posture and ready to give each other Battel Voogt yields and is fetter'd The description of Madagascar it 's Fertility Store of Cattel Goodness of their Sheep Many kinds of Monkeys Nature of the Inhabitants Form Habit House-keeping Marriages and Funerals Their impious cruelty over their Children Their Religion Policy and Warrs ON the 13 of October we arrived at Madagascar and came to Anchor in the Bay of Anton Gill. So soon as we had cast Anchor we sent forth our Boat
after she had been thus treated by these sensual bruits that rather than to deny their beastly appetite made a Bawdy house of our Ship was after much intreaties put ashoar and delivered to her Husband who inhumanly mangled he● till she died On the 28 we weighed anchor and set sail for Indraepoura taking by the way two Iunks more loaden with Pepper Camphi● and other Druggs and Spices On the 29 we arrived at Indrapoura where we took in some necessary Provision and Refreshments thinking by the way to meet with more small Prizes but had no● our expectation On the 2 of July we left Indrapoura and so set sail for th● Straits of Sunda When we had got the height of Toppers hook w● met 14 Sail of Ships belonging to the Dutch East-India company which were sent out by express order of the General and the Council to bring us up whether willing or unwilling So soo● as our commander had received the Message he returned answer That he was not under the command of the General and tha● if they should assail him he was resolved to fight in his ow● defence The Dutch commander was hereat in a doubt and sent ● Batavia for new Instructions It was not long before he got an Orde● from the General with a Ship of War to assist him in case of Opposition and thereupon imperiously commanded him to strike threatning to fire a whole tear of Guns in case of refusal Capt. Maas who seeing himself now in a great Strait and the uneasiness of his Ships-folk called together all the Officers to consult the matter when after mature deliberation they concluded it more safe to surrender themselves and give their Masters a true account of the business seeing they were not able to defend themselves against such a number of Ships This Resolution was very acceptable to the Ships-company who since that division and uproar at Madagascar were still at odds continually jarring among themselves and long'd for this or the like opportunity The Company now made Masters of our Ships brought them up to Batavia where we arrived the 12 of Iuly Our Ships outsail'd the rest by far we arriving at the Haven 6 or 8 hours before them so that if we had been willing might have left them and made our escape by night On the 15 came Captain vander Meulen aboard with an Order from the Heer vander Liin then General to take possession of the Ship Assoon as he was aboard went into the great Cabin where he examin'd us one by one All the Dutch were brought abaft and afterwards committed to the Javans Corps du Garde The Italians and other Strangers remain'd aboard and in the mean while pillaged our Chests and took all the money they could come at They being now at liberty and dismissed went every man where he best liked the Italians mostly to Goa or Banthem but the Hamburgers and others imbarqu'd themselves for Europe Shortly after the Commander died and by several tokens he had on his body was supposed to be poysoned and as some conjecture was done by those which were left aboard the Ship when we were carried ashoar After we had now lain about 14 days in prison we delivered a Petition desiring Inlargement which was not only granted but by Order of the General all our Arrearages pay'd us to the utmost penny and a Choice preferr'd us Whether we would return home or List our selves in the Companies service some rather chused to go home but I with the most part of the men accepted of the latter I hired myself as Sailmaker for the Term of three years at 18 Gild. per moneth On the 15 Ianuary I was put aboard the Black Bear bound for Siam where we safely arrived and cast anchor in the Bay The Kingdom of Siam lies in the most Easterly part of East India from 7 to 8 degr Northerly Latitude There are many Cities and Towns of note in it and those very populous among which India is the chief being the Metropolis of India extra Gangem and the city where the King has his Court and Residence The land is very fertile affoarding all that may serve for the delight and sustenance of human Bodies the Fields stored with many sorts of Cattel the Rivers with Fish and the Towns with Magazines of rich Merchandizes The Inhabitants are of a tawny and yellowish complexion and superstitious Pagans in Religion as appears by their great Zeal in adorning of their Temples and strict Reverence for their Priests which are here too great and numerous for the Laity Their Government is Monarchical and the King for many ages has been absolute Sovereign over this and the neighbouring Territories and Dominions and that with as much Power Grandour and Reverence from the Subject as any Potentate or King under the canopy of Heaven In short Siam in regard of it's Fertility Wealth Number of Inhabitants and subordinat Principalities may paralel any other Empire i● the Universe Iudia which as we have already said is the Imperial Tow● of Siam lies about 16 degrees Northerly Latitude from the Aequ●tor and is seated on one of the fairest Rivers without doubt in all the Eastern World where a Ship of the greatest burthen may come up close to the Kay to load or unload without fear o● sustaining dammage The Land is for the most part level of a clay and sandy earth ●ew Hills appear or any thing else seems to surmount the Horizon ●ve the high Towers and Pyramids whereof we found an incre●ible number About 8 leagues up the River is a small City of a triangular Plat-●orm and environed with a wall called Bankok In the same City 〈◊〉 the Kings first Toll-or Custome-house which they call the Canon ●ankok and every Ship and Junk to whomsoever they belong are ●bliged to come to anchor there and give in their information upon ●hat account they come and from whence as also what Men and ●oods they have aboard Having performed that Duty they pay ●eir Toll and receive their Billet with Letters of Conduct to ●o so far up as they list till they come within a League of Iudia ●here the second Toll-house is called the Canon Bantenau and ●ere they are a second time bound to anchor and exhibit their Coc●ets which having shown they have their liberty to go further This ●cond Canon is erected only to see that the Prince have his due ●nd to examin whether that the Stranger be not defrauded by the commissioners of the first and to give Licences to enter the Town ●nd traffique It is also to be understood that when any Ship is ●utward bound they are to pay their Toll at the Canon Bantenau ●hich at coming up was the second now the first Custome-House and are to pass an Examen at the Canon Bankok as they did ●efore at the other without paying any thing if they can manifest 〈◊〉 their Cocket that they have already paid and this every
ran her Bow-spreet through our main Sail which was with such force that he rent our sail and broke his Spreet-sail yard insomuch that we were both fain to put into Ter Schelling to repair and fit our selves out again On the 20 being clear we set sail the second time and had a fresh gale at South and by West which held favourably so long till we arrived at Riga but when we entred the Baltic Sea it blew so hard that our Mizzen sail was all rent and unfit for use whereupon the Master set me to work to repair the defects On the 1 st of October we got the Boldera which is the Haven or River of Riga where we dropt Anchor Immediately upon our arrival came the Searchers to visit the Ship and amongst other Goods found a Parcel of contra-band Wares and took it ashoar with them but the Master told them that it was thrown in by chance and pray'd them to be so kind as to leave it aboard which after he had daubed them a litle in the fist they did The next day being under sail we were becalm'd and fain to cast anchor half way up the River On the 3 ditto we came up to the Kay of Riga where being arrived the Master refused to pay me the moneys he agreed with me for to make up his sail which was 10 Rix-dollars but on the contrary gave me very ill Language and told me if I had any pretence upon him the Law was open and Judges appointed for the decision of such controversies This great ingratitude made me to take a course I never intended which was to send him summons to appear in the Town hall where upon a second citation he made his appearence and was condemned to pay the money in presence of the Court. Riga is an eminent Emporium lying within the Prinsdom of Lithvania and seated in a Champain land on the north-east side of the great River Duna It is fortified with Walls Bulwarks and Ditches or Motes populous and full of Trade being as it were the Magazin to supply the whole Countrey above with all kinds of Wares and Commodities and is also a great Thorow-fare By Winter they receive Goods over Land in Sledges and Waggons from Moscovia which is transmitted abroad and by Summer from England Germany Holland and other Places by Shipping which are sent that way again with the Moscovian Waggons and Sledges The Countrey about Riga affoards good plenty of all kinds of Provision as Kine Sheep Goats besides 3 sorts of Deer the Sea and Rivers affoard good store of Fish and the Boors besides their diligence in breeding up of Cattel supply other Countreys with Corn of all sorts and Lactuaries so that it is cheap living at or near Riga This City was formerly within the Jurisdiction of the Kings of Poland but was taken in by Gustavus Adolphus King of Sweden upon the 16 of September 1621 after a long and hard Siege and is at this day in subjection to that Crown On the 10 ditto we left Riga and with our compleat Company and Baggage imployed 30 Waggons to bring us to Pletsko and took up our first nights Lodging at Niew-meulen being a Village where all the Waggons and Horses are set over a River with great Logs of Timber fastned together that float above the Water On the 11 we proceeded again on our Journey and broke two of our Waggon-wheels which the Waggoners repaired and so we proceeded on our Journey At night we came into an Inn which was so meanly provided for Bedding that we were fain to lay all night in the Waggons The next day we travelled through a great Wood in the middest whereof was a broad Marsh that cost us some Hours to go over When we were through the Wood we passed through several little Villages the Inhabitants whereof were a miserable silly People hardly able to draw one leg after the other The Women have only an old Rag like a Plad thrown about their bodies hardly sufficient to hide their nakedness except a litle below their ears to let the World know they have hair as well as other People so that they look like so many Gypsies newly come from the famous Peak of Darby As for their Houses they are but one degree beneath a Hog-sty and those as full of Utensils as a Knave is full of Honesty All that ever I could see was an earthen Pan or two and those so clean that I had rather fast a week than eat any thing that has come out of them Great plenty of Cattel they have and such as have three times as many feet as they themselves As for Beds they have none but such as their Oxen ly upon for when they have stuffed their Gutts they ly down upon the floor one after another as the Nap takes them Their Diet is suitable to all things else they have for although they might have Venison for knocking on the Head the Creature may live till Dooms-day before they will take the pains to lift a hand to kill it unless it be a louse which sometimes they crush to death for change of Diet. As for their Bread it is not much unlike our New-castle Coal for colour but how it is of Tast I know no more than the Man in the Moon for neither my Appetite nor Curiosity could move me to it Cabbage they have in great abundance which is of a Tast like Sorrel but close and white like ours That and Cucumbers are the main ingredients whereof these People seem to be compounded but more especially the latter for Cucumber attends them from the Womb to the Tomb being held in perpetual Slavery by their Lords They are conformable to no Laws unless what they are forced to observe by a strict aw which their Lords impose upon them and injoyn them to They are by nature obtuse and dull inclined to Necromancy and Sorcery but in the performance of an Exorcism so palpably ridiculous that I wonder how they have obtained that repute they have in the World among those who ought to be wiser than to beleeve such groundless Fictions They have no manner of Schools wherein to educate their Children that ever I could see or hear of neither Churches or other Houses for Religious use so that they are brought up in the greatest Blindness and obscurity that may be Some of them 't is true will needs be called Christians but those are they that have travelled as far as Riga which they think is the Head of the World yet are those so stupid as a Lifeland Gentleman told me that they have learn'd Catechism enough if they can but know the Church from a Dwelling house or to pull of their Caps when they see a man with a shoulder knot pass by Yet they are flexible enough to Idolatry by Nature and withall superstitious In our going through the Woods we saw a great Troop of them busy about Conjuring
Kopeke the Couple and satisfyed my Chapman to the full On the 13 we came to Omula which is a Village about 40 English Leagues from Dydenof After two days Sailing we came to Pereslaf which is a small City rebuilt as I have been told out of the Ruins of Resanski which formerly was a famous Town surprized by the Tartars demolished and the Inhabitants removed to Pereslaf On the 17 we came close to Resanski where we viewed the Ruins of the City which testified the former Greatness and Strength of the Town From hence we sailed to the Eastern side of the River where we saw many famous Houses and stately Buildings with Fair Orchards and Groves On the 18 we saw many goodly Towns and Religious Houses and at night arrived at Novosolki a Place solely belonging to the Arch-Bishop Here we bought provision and all kinds of Refreshments that the place affoarded finding all things very cheap and good and from hence we sailed away passing by Schilko Tericho Tinersho Slavada Koponaw and other fair Towns On the 22 we came to Kassienie-gorod a beautifull litle City and the Residence of Prince Reskitski Our Captain and Master intended to visit the said Prince and for that end came here to Anchor but coming a shoar understood that he was departed for Moscou with the old Princess his Mother However they went to view the Palace and were magnificently entertained by the steward of whom after the Exchange of some Rarities on both sides by way of Presents they took their leaves Kassieme-gorod has been formerly a Hold of the Tartars but the present Prince at the age of 12 years surrendred it up to the great Duke of Moscovy whom he as then obtained to be his Protector On the 23 we sailed past many fair Villages Churches Monasteries and other Houses built for Religious uses coming the next morning to anchor before Leshi which is a very great Town but not walled On the 24 we came before Moruma a Town inhabited partly by Russes and partly by Mordwin-Tartars whose Countrey begins here although both the City Moruma and the Circumjacient Land-ship is at present under subjection of his Majesty of Russia On the 27 we sailed by Prewas Palo and some other lesser Towns Near this Place are two Rivers which vent themselves into the Wolga the one called Morsna Reka on the starboard and the other Klesna on the larboard-side in sailing downward which last comes from the City VVolodomur The Bank on the one side is very high Land and steep yet above level and fair Land but to the Northward the Bank is level with the Water and the Land woody and desert nether inhabited nor tilled to any purpose On the 28 we sailed past Isbuilets and Troitska dropping anchor before Slowoda On the 24 we set Sail and came that day before Dudwina where we were forced to remain 4 days and 4 nights by reason of the tempestuous weather The boistrous Winds and Rain somewhat abated we set sail and on the 3 of Iune came before Nofunki and the 8 before the great City Nisen Novogorod situate on an angle of the great River Wolga which is there conjoined with the Oka Nisen-gorod lies in the Latitude of 36 degr and 28 min. under a wholsome climat and in a fertile Countrey It is well fortified with Walls Bulwarks Towers Men and Ammunition of War About 2 English miles without the City live more Inhabitants than within being Russes and Tartars but in subjection to the great Duke The Germans had formerly built two Churches here one for the Lutherans and another for the Calvinists both which went to decay upon their leaving the Town It is here very cheap living and all things necessary for the sustenance of Human Bodies may be procured at easy Rates The Pastures abound with Cattel the Villages with Poultry the Woods with Venison the Rivers with Fish and the Land with Corn Fruit Roots and Plants Butter we bought there for 10 gl the 100 lb. which is after the rate of 2 d per pound and yet we esteemed that the dearest Purchase we bought there We bought there a good sort of Linnen for 2 stivers the Ell which served us well for shirting and other uses aboard the Ship And by reason of the Cheapness of Provision and all necessaries we received here 6 Moneths pay and because that they had here an excellent Ropeyard the Heads of our Company thought good to leave the Lieutenant Schack with our chief Boatswain to look after some Ropes which we had given order to be made as also to fit us with new Anchors On the 21 dito we put off from Nisen and left the Wolga This is reputed one of the greatest and longest Rivers in the whole World taking it's beginning in the highest Mountains of Nova-Zembla running past Ierislaf or Ierislaw Tweer and other eminent Cities whence with many Windings and Turnings it runs through the Land till it come at Astrachan where it divides it self into several Heads like the Nile and so looses it self into the Caspian Sea receiving by the way many great and navigable Rivers and those mostly on the Northeast side from whence by reason that the River receives it's Water it is subject to rising and falling as at Iune it is at highest and in Iuly begins again suddenly to decrease insomuch that it is in all places full of Banks and Sand-beds as hereafter in the pursuit of my Journal shall more particular and ample mention be made whereas when it is increased to it's heighth one may sail over several Islands This said River is in some places more than 3 English miles broad and proving in other places very narrow makeing at each side of the River a Whirl-pool which cannot be avoided without great difficulty The course of this River from Nisen to Casan is mostly East and South-East but from Casan to Astrachan and so to the Mare Hyrcanum or Caspian Sea altogether South On each side the River you have for the most part very good Land and many fair Towns as I have already noted whose Inhabitants are sedulous in their Husbandry and are well supplyed with the particular Products of all the several Landships adjacent on this noble River as also with many sorts of excellent Fish In times past the Wolga was much incommodated by the Cosaks of Don who being very strong in small shipping would sometimes surprize assail and take the Russian Fishermen and Strougs On the 22 we passed by the Islands Tlerinski and Subsinski but towards the Evening were fain to drop anchor by reason of the many Sands and Banks On the 23 we weighed but found our Anchor fast among the Roots of the Trees which cost us some pains to get clear About mid-day we got the Island Dioploy about 3 in the afternoon Musa and about the Evening Kremonsky where we anchored On the 24 we proceeded forward and got Parmino where we took in Provision which we found
amongst them On the first of Iuly we sailed by two Islands to wit Turig and Mastof and ran the ship aground where we lost another Anchor Towards the Evening we came before Makrity On the 2 d we set Sail and came before Sabaksar where some of our Ships-company went ashoar and took our Pasport and Credentials to show the VVaywode or Governour who gave us a supply of Men and necessaries to help us forward to Astrachan Sabaksar is one of the neatest Towns I had hitherto seen since we left Moscou being well built fortified and since the uproar of the Casaks the Garrison better supplied with men than before Having dispatched here we weighed anchor and on the 3 of ditto gain'd the Island Cosin where we were fast again but without much difficulty got clear We sailed that day past Sundir a handsome litle Town and dropp'd anchor before Cokschaga loosing thence we were fain to cast out our Fore-anchor to hale over a Foord which was 10 Dutch leagues long and found work enough to bring the Vessel over however after much pains taken we gaind the Deep without any damage to the Ship On the 4 we came past the Shallow places and before VVolofka were fast again where we were fain to cast anchor and wind our selves off At night we lay before Swiatkhi which is a fortify'd Town having many fair Churches and Monasteries within walls On the 5 we weighed anchor and set Sail having a brisk Gale which in 3 hours time or less brought us before the River Casanka from which River the City and Kingdom of Casan have their name here we came to anchor where some small Shipping belonging to that place aiming to enter the River ran against our Bow and some fell overboard Here about is a very fair Countrey and as fertile as any that ever I have seen in all my Life It is mostly low arable and medow ground overflown once a year upon the swelling of the River VVolga On the Banks of this said River are variety of Fruit trees of many kinds which grow in whole Groves together and wild for a hundred Dutch Leagues as Hasle-nuts Cherries 3 or 4 several sorts Black White and Red Currans c. That part of Casan which lies most within Land formerly belonged to the Tartars but the Inhabitants speake the Russian Language which was first brought in when the Countrey was conquered by the Russes as shall be hereafter said They do not convert any man to slavery nor make that their Traffic as do the Nagay the Crim-Calmuc-and Dagestan-Tartars for if they had they might have sold me when with other two of our Ships-company I was under their Hands and that above 3 leagues within Land where on the contrary we found them civil after their Manner for they gave us Bread and Milk to eat On the 6 th our Shallop was sent up to Casan to acquaint the Deputy with our Arrival On the 8 th the Deputy of Casan together with the Metropolitan came aboard where they seemed to receive great satisfaction having never seen the like before The Common people came likewise flocking in great multitudes to see a floating Castle and notwithstanding all the aw of the Deputy and Provincial we had much ado to keep them off for they strove to come aboard Casan is a great City and reasonably strong but it's Walls and Towers of Wood as almost all the Russian Towns are The Cittadel is walled with stone and well provided of Ammunition and Men. The Town is situated upon a Hill but in a Champan Countrey The Cittadel is encompassed with the Casanka which renders the Water within inexhaustible in time of Siege The Traffic of this Place is very considerable regarding the Countrey it lies in It is frequented by the Crim-Tartars who bring thither all manner of Merchandise their Land affoards and not only the vendible Products of the Earth and Cattle but as orderly their own Children which they sell at a low rate a Boy or a Girl of 16 years of age for the value of 20 Crowns a piece The City Casan is equally inhabited by Russians and Tartars and governed by a Deputy as we have already said but the Cittadel kept solely by Russes where no Tartar is to come upon pain of Death There is besides the Deputy who is only as President and supreme in Civil Matters an extraordinary VVaywode who is always as Superintendant in time of War having the sole Direction of Martial Affairs The Countrey of Casan which has been formerly a Kingdom is of a very wide extent bounded on the North with Syberia on the East with Nagaya and on the South with the River VVolga This Countrey was formerly very populous and able to bring a great Army to field as in recorded of their famous Expeditions against the Russes but since depopulated made wast and subdued by Basilius Ivanowitz who overcame these Casan-Tartars in a very bloody Battail and after that so notable a Conquest set a Vice-Roy This Vice-Roy although a Casan-Tartar was always more loyal to the Czar than favourable to his own Countreymen which occasioned great murmurings and jealousy among the Casaneers that at last they called in the Crim-Tartars for their assistance who were Mahometans These made not much delay but on a sudden raised a mighty Army which incorporating with the Rebells gave the Vice-Roy battail and gain'd the Field and pursuing the success of the day invaded the Emperours Territories The Czaar in the mean while being informed by Express that the Hostility kept the Field had put the Forces under Conduct of the Vice-Roy to flight and that they approached with a great Body he levied as great an Army as he could do with so short warning and ingaged with the Tartars in open Field But the Hostility increasing more and more what with their own Nation and what with the Malecontents within the Russian Jurisdiction were almost 15 to 3 and after a short but very hot Battel the Emperour was fain to flee and betake himself to Novogorod The Tartars seeing themselves Masters of the Field marched forward to Moscou which they attacqued took in and plundered However the Cittadel Cremelena held stoutly forth all the time without making Proposals or Articles upon which they would seem willing to surrender it till at last finding themselves not in a capacity to hold forth they gave it over upon very honourable Conditions as to themselves but disadvantageous Terms for the great Duke himself and the City of Moscou Shamefull was this Loss to the Emperour and no less ground of Honour for the Victory to the Hostility who now as it were in a moment had regained all their Freedoms which from time to time before they had lost Right loath was the Czar to give his assent to the Conclusions of the Treaty but was at last compelled to sign it with his own hand partly for that his Bojars and Council pressed him to it and partly upon
which had been made wast by Tamarlan While we lay here it began to blow very hard and the next day we were fain to keep at anchor In the mean time I went with some of our Ships Company to the Hill Arbuchin where we found the Ruins of another City bearing one name with the said Hill In ascending the Hill we found a great stone with this Inscription in old Russian Words and Letters IF THOU WILT REMOVE THOU SHALT NOT LOSE THY PAINS Some Russians had a mind to see what would come of it and after long digging and much struggling at last got it turn'd over but instead of finding a Treasure met with another Motto which was THOU ASS GO SHAKE THY EARS This vexed them so that they rather willed to let it stand in that posture than take the pains to set it as it was before to deceive others The Land round about is very fair and withall of a fat Soil yet not cultivated for there are no Inhabitants but the Relicts of several Towns and Villages formerly depopulated by the famous Tamerlan On the 17 we sailed past the River and City of Adrobe lying in the heighth of 54 degr and 48 min. At the mouth of this River we were again set fast and after much labour and all the means we could imagine to be any way helpfull we gave the Ship and Yacht both over for lost but in the Evening it began to Thunder and abundance of Rain fell that the River began to swell and so set us adrift again On the 29 we came before Calmaka where were many Salt-pits and two new Towns We found there several Pans where the Russes made their Salt which they fetch out of great hollows and cavernal Rocks this being boiled is sent up the Wolga in Stroughs and so dispersed over the whole Countrey of Moscovia These Salt-pits keep abundance of Men in imployment and is no small profit to the Overseers On the 30 th we set sail again and after half an hours sailing ran aground upon a sand where after much ado we gott off but with the Loss of an Anchor and 80 fathom of our Cable The next day it began to storm very hard wherefore we thought good to come to anchor for the River was here about very perillous and so we were fain to continue till the 4 of August On the 5 th of August we came to Morrakzy where we saw abundance of Fishers of whom we bought some Cavear and Sturgeon having as much of that Fish as 20 Men could eat for the value of 11 stivers or one shilling sterl Here we were forced to tarry for the space of 24 Hours by reason of the hard Wind lying near the Island Kistowato where is a very shoaring or slanting strand on both sides which makes the stream of the Wolga at that place very narrow and deep Here we saw the River Ussa which encompassing Samara almost round empties it self into the Wolga On each side this River is a fair and pleasant Countrey so far as one can view but we were informed by the Russes that it was there very dangerous to travail by reason of Robbers and the vagabond Cosaks who kept themselves in the Woods whence they sometimes salley out in whole bands and surprize Passengers The Cosaks also haunt the River having Boats which are made long and small with which they row admirably swift On one side of the Ussa are some Mountains and amongst those one of an incredible heighth called Sariol Kurgan where they say an Emperor of the Tartars with 70 Kings ly buried when they came up the Wolga with intent to invade Russia which Mountain being bare and rocky they say that the Soldiers carried up so much Earth and Mold as was sufficient Some of those Mountains are woody and other some bare stone and cliffs On the 8 th we sailed forward and came to Samara which is so called from a certain River that runs through it where it runs into the VVolga The City is built four Square and mostly of Wood only the Churches and Cloysters are built of stone The day following we saw the Mountain Cosak-krim so called from the Cosaks which were there beat by the Moscovian Army having sadly molested all the Countrey under the subjection of the Czaar by a continual Plundering but having at that time received such an overthrow could never since complete so great a Body as might be any way obnoxious to the Russians Behind Samara the Mountains are very high but Cosak-krim surpasses all the rest for heighth About the going down of the Sun we sailed past the Island Pantzina and the next morning found our selves as far as Sagenisko On the 11 we sailed past the Island Zagra where we met divers Fishers-boats and supplied our selves with fresh Fish Here we had news that a great number of Cosac-Rebells were entred the Island Satyry-Boggere at the mouth of the VVolga on the Caspian Sea and annoyed the River On the 12 we sailed by several Islands namely Sasnow Ossino Schipnamago Koltof and other not inhabited The next day we saw the Mountain Smiowa which in their Language is as much as to say a Snake or Dragon having it's name as I conjecture from its similitude of a Snake rising up into hillocks and falling down again into gaps like a serpent when he creeps Although the Russes as also the Inhabitants tell us a Fable of a famous Cavalier who went out to kill a monstrous Animal like a Snake that wasted all the Countrey round about and devoured every day 50 Men for a Break-fast The Knight having killed the serpent it was metamorphosed into a Rock which is now this Mountain The day following we came before Saratof where we cast anchor This City lies in 52 degr 12 min. in a valley upon a Branch of the VVolga on the larboard side in sailing down and is only inhabited by a Military Officer and a Garrison of Soldiers to free the River and Countrey of the Cosacks and Calmuc-Tartars whose Countrey is bounded here These Calmucks are the most ougly and mishapen People in the World worse favoured by far than the Hotentots or Moors which are Angels in Comparison of those Their Faces are broad and almost four square their noses flat their mouths reaching almost from one ear to the other their Eies long and small upon their Heads they wear a Quoif the rest of their Habit is sufficiently denoted in the following Plate They seldom go afoot but mostly on Horseback as if they were Centaurs for some of them do not only eat and drink but also sleep upon their Horses Their only weapons is the Long-bow which they use with an admirable Dexterity There is a continual enmity between those and the Nagayans for they perpetually steal one anothers Children and Cattel which they bring to Astrachan to Market for there they have 3 several market days one for the Russians themselves another for the Nagayans and
They fall down the Wolga and miss their Course Then touch at Oetzjoege The strange manner of fishing of the Bieloege The great plenty of Cavear They meet with great difficulty to gain the Caspian Sea which at last they get A description of the Island Satyry Boggere Tall Reeds grow all along the Coast A dreadfull Tempest The Golden Bay Their meeting with a Tartarian Bark A description of Terki The Beginning of the Circas-Tartars Their Persons and Complexions described Their Habit and Way of Living Of their Women their Habit Humours and Inclinations Their Idolatry Steur vangst inde Rivier de WOSGA A. Waght ●raysen aen weder sydts des Wolga B. Het Pael-were● C. De Caspische Zee When we were come to this Place The Tartars would not convoyes any further saying If you were but sensible of the difficult passage 〈◊〉 get the Sea you would keep you where you are but added they if you 〈◊〉 resolve to go when you are at Oetsjoege you may set your course directly forwa● till you come at the Sea This we were forced to take in good part an● pay them for their pains The money we conditioned for satisfie● them very well but at parting they told us that they were affraid 〈◊〉 would not easily get through whereas they knew no better but there was a stri● watch held on each side the Wolga This last startled us not a little however we resolved unanimously hap hazard to venture through let what would follow adjudging it equally safe to run that peri● or to suffer the Calamities we were liable to and had in some regar● deserved and in that resolution continued sailing till we found th● Stakes or Pale-work so close in the Mouth of the River that the● was only a narrow Passage to go through About the end of the sai● passage we saw a Redoubt which at a distance seemed to be ver● strongly fortified which mainly increased our fears but greatly t● our good luck we found no Watch but only a few Fishers who ha● no Authority or warrant to examin us insomuch that we steere● boldly through but considering our Bread was almost brought to a● end for we were brought to an Allowance of an ounce per diem w● therefore turned back and prayed the Fishermen to supply us for our Moneys but they told us they had hardly enough to suffice themselves which very much disheartned us however they supplied us with Fish as much as we had need of to serve us over the Caspian Meer On the 14 we set out and left the Wolga which there leaves it sel● divided into several streams or Heads like the Nile as before making so many several Islands which are low and full of Reeds except only the Island Satyri Boggore which is surrounded on every side with high Cliffs Upon this Island we saw some Watch-houses which Stenko Radzin even now remembred had caused to be built to view the approachment of his Enemies However it was not intent his intent or design in building of these Watch-houses only to be forewarned of any danger but to prey upon the Persian Merchant men who were bound for Astrachan From hence to the Circas-Mountains we often sounded and found it never more or seldom less than 12 foot Water All along the Coast we saw abundance of Wild-geese Pelicans and other Fowl which now and then we bestowed a litle powder upon The strand was all grown over with Reeds which grow to an incredible heighth and the Water there we found deeper than off at Sea in somuch that it were very commodious in a storm for any small vessel to shelter themselves dropping anchor a litle without for the Reeds break of the Winds and the impetuous beatings of the Water In the afternoon towards the Evening it began to thunder and rain very hard the Wind was very high at South and by East and our Course lay South and by West The Water all the time beat over the Gunhil and two men forced to heave out with their Backlers though hardly to any purpose for notwithstanding all the pains they took the Shallop was still full the Tempest continuing so till 5 in the next morning at what time it began to grow very calm and moderate yet not so but that we were driven with a fine fresh Gale The Water here is fresh and potable and affoards all manner of Fish that usually breed in fresh Rivers Pike Carps Breams c. Besides Sturgeons Seals and other creatures that will endure both On the 15 we lost the sight of Land and came about midday into the Bay Kieselarke which is otherwise called the Golden Bay the sand whereof shines as fire and is therefore by some called Kiselarsche Kolthoeh which is no other than Golden Bay My curiosity was often to tast the Water sometimes I found it last of Sulfur sometimes of Saltpeter and sometimes of an od bitter tast whence I collected that this came from the property of the Ground and bottom The River Kiselar is a Branch or an Arm of the Bustro rising about 8 Dutch Leagues above Terki and runs paralel with the VVolga about 65 leagues so disbanding its floods into the Caspian Sea But now we were in a more desperate Condition than ever partly for that our Shallop was so loaden that we were not a foot above Water and on the other hand wanted bread for we had not above 6 or 7 pound among all the Company The Wind began to grow high and boystrous and towards the Evening we had a very rough Sea every billow rising Mountains high insomuch that with continual pumping and laving we had much ado to keep the Shallop above Water working some times 4 or 5 together and by taking turns relieved those that were weary every hour with fresh men The next morning we could see no land but let all be left to the mercy of GOD. On the 16 we had a stiff gale and sailed before the Wind which furthered us so that by noon we descried Land and soon after got sight of a Dagestan-Tartar's Barque which we made up to but when we came near it it was run upon a Bank and deserted of the Men which upon our approaching them jump'd over board We perceiving that it was only for us that they left their Vessel called out to them and willed them freely to return and that we meant no harm upon which they came back and we pray'd them to furnish us with some bread for our Money but they told us that they had not enough for their own Voyage however they gave us 6 litle Loaves for which they would have no money as also dried Pears and Plumbs which we thank fully received This said Bark was laden with Bales of Silk and bound for Astrachan which when we understood we gave them a Caution and told them that we verily beleeved that by that time Astrachan was in hand of the Cosacks and consequently we could not judge it safe for
that were willing for we saw the Vessel jogg too and again very lightly that we easily suspected some bad design as afterward it appeared for when they saw us wind about they made all the Sail they could and pursued us till finding that we were very well armed they gave over their chace The men aboard were Cosacks and as we beleeved of Radzins Folk Finding that they left us we consulted which way to steer and resolved to let drive before the Wind. We sounded and found 4 fathom and came in a short time close by Zierlan which we found to ly in 43 degr 7 min. From hence we saw the famous Ararat mounting his head far above the Caucasus which was nearer us The Land of the Island Zierlan is all covered with shells which seem to be wash'd over with high Floods and Inundations whence I presume none will Inhabit it About evening we put off and after an hours failing sounded and found we had 6 fathom and a sandy ground When night came we were surprized with a great Tempest and the Sea rose mountains high insomuch that we expected every moment to go to bottom and so we were thrown to and again on the tops of the billows In the morning it began to clear up and the Winds abated something so that we made a litle sail and indeavoured to steer towards the High-lands on the Circas coast After much labour in beating through the Waves and danger of our lives we got that heighth We sailed by a Tartarian City Seated near the Water between two Hills and by the way met with a Moscovian Boes where the Men aboard had acquaintance with us having lay with their Vessel aboard our Ship at Astrachan The said Men invited us all to dinner of Fresh Mutton and Rice which they first parboiled and afterward stewed with Butter of which we made a hearty meal After we had taken our leaves of them we steered away by the Coast and saw many pleasant Valleys and a fruitfull Countrey When the Evening came on and we seeing it good weather resolved that night to take our rest which we had not done for 3 nights together and to that end dropped anchor On the 20 we came within 15 Leagues of Derbent which is the land of the Dagestan Tartars who are so called for that they inhabit the hilly Countrey the word Dag in their tongue signifying a Mountain That part of the Countrey which lies toward the Sea is dry and heathy but within land very fruitfull as afterward to our sorrow we found it The men are very robust and able of Body of a deep swarthy complexion and terrible to look at Their Habit is much at one with the Circas-Tartars Their shoes are onely made of an Horses hide undrest and of one piece drawn together above the foot with Thongs Their Arms are only Bow Arrows and a Scimmatar although some have also Spears and Launces when they ride out or go upon any expedition they put themselves in Harnass to wit a Helmet and a Target They are great Men-stealers not sticking if they find oppo●tunity to sell their own Relations or Children of their nearest Friends which they bring to the Turks and Persians They are very bold and not easily daunted at any forreign Power trusting to the steep cragg● and Mountains which are to others inaccessible They are Mahometans by profession but sorry Zealots for their Religion The Wome● feed and keep cattel but their men go out a Robbing These Mountains are very barren and sandy except where it is chalky The next day we weighed anchor and came before the Tartari● town Boynak which when we had just passed by it began to blow very hard from the Sea ward we having then about 16 fathom Water In the mean time the Sea began to grow very rough and hollow that we were forced to run the Shallop immediately a strand for fear of overturning being then but 5 leagues from Derbent which was the nearest Land Directly before the coast lay a long Rif or Bank and round about us was rocks which we by the grace of GOD escaped tho very narrowly for indeavoring to get our selves afloa● again we ran into a Circle of Rocks about 3 or 4 foot under Water and had much labour to get clear Having now wrought our selves out we gave our selves over to the mercy of Heaven letting the Boat drive what way it would till at last by a great Sea we were thrown upon the strand without either loss of men or Goods every man packing up what they thought fit to carry along with them The Goods which belonged to Capt. Butler and Mr. Termund we buried in the Sand thinking to send for them upon occasion by the Persians But most unhappy proved this our landing here for no sooner were we come ashoar but we were espied by the Tartars who came and delved up the Goods we had so hidden and carried it away upon their Horses to a litle Village hard by and brought the news of such an accidental Booty to Aly Sultan their Prince who came on Horse back with a guard of Troopers to seek us Altho by day we hid our selves in the Woods and by night went forward on our Journey Having remained one night in the Woods where we took our rest Our Company consulted what was best to do whether to march forward on our journey or to tarry It was advised by the major part to go but I was rather desirous to tarry 3 or 4 days longer till the heat of the pursuit was over that so thinking when the Tartars should have sought for us a while in vain they would give us over for lost However they were very forward to be going and rejected my Council In the mean while C. Brak slept with his wife and child at a litle distance from us and the rest of the Company would that we should leave them there because that the Woman and Child were but a cumber to us So soon as I understood their intent was to leave them so I insisted on the contrary with words to this effect Pray Gentlemen remember your selves to what end should you do such an unworthy act and leave those poor souls behind us who have neither Money nor means to subsist and must in all apparency perish in a strange place and then what guilt must we have upon our Consciences But know this if you indeed resolve to go and leav'em it is also my resolution to cry out and make our Fates equal When they saw me so zealous and in a hot passion they were contented to take them with us I was the more concerned at it for his Fathers sake who when we left our Native Countrey show'd us all imaginable Friendship and therefore indeared him the more to me About half a day we marched with Muskets and other heavy Armor upon our shoulders besides our baggage along the sides of the Mountains till at last we came into a
specious promises than before as That if I would become a Musulman or True Beleever he would advance me to the Dignity of a Commander in the Guards This perplexed me very much when I saw him so earnest thinking that if he could not get his will by fair means he would proceed to rigour and being absolute Lord and Soveraign as well of the Countrey as of my Person would force me to embrace the Mahometan Religion however I had already stood out so much Torture that being a litle hardned to it I feared it so much the less but gave him a short Answer to this Effect Sir All the fair promises you have already and that you may hereafter make shall not have that efficacy with me as to make me renounce my Faith for I had rather dispatch my self than to imbrace Mahometanism He hearing me say so did not for that time press me much more On the 9 th dito I continued still in Chains at what time the young Damosels that had been with me before were sent again who as they did the last time endeavoured to perswade me to turn Mahometan neither did they desist to use all manner of Allurements they could devise to entice me to ly with them for so they thought that if I had done that I must either become Turk or dy a miserable Death They further did what they could to put me in mind of my present misery and told me that I must never expect to enjoy any better than what I saw before my eies and in the conclusion of all told me that they wondred at the Folly and Vanity of the Christians who were so strictly tied to Monogamy or only to marry one Wife when as the Mahometans might have as many as they listed or thought themselves capable to maintain My Master altho he was a Prince yet thought it no dishonour to trade in Commerce but the chief thing he had which brought him up the most Revenues were the Baths which he kept having som almost in every City as well in his own Jurisdiction as in Persia and other Countreys whereof those were the most considerable at Derbent at Scamachy and at Ispahan which brought him in a vast sum of Money yearly The reason why the Baths are there in such esteem and so much frequented by persons of all Ranks and Degrees is not only their affected Cleanliness in which they surpass all others but as well thro Superstition for that after the use of their Wives they are to bath being till then reputed unclean and may not enter the Mosques and this both sexes are injoyned to upon such Cases by the Alcoran A man among them may not ly with his wife from Conception to her Delivery which is probably instituted as a Praecept in the Alchoran to make those Countreys more populous for so one Man is capable of generating many Children in one year The Baths are frequented from Break of day to the Setting of the Sun From morning till noon the Men bath and from noon till night the Women so taking it by Turns On the 10 th came my Patron to visit me and asked me how I did and if I had taken good Courage I answered him that I had no great occasion to thank him for my Welfare since he did all he could to make me miserable and contrary to that Honesty and Truth which the Turks boasted of he had shown me an odd example Withall telling him that he had little reason to chain me so fast and make my Slavery the greater when as he had promised me my Freedom upon the receipt of the Money which was paid him Upon this he seemed to be a little moved to compassion and commanded that the greater Chain should be taken off Now when I observed that my reasoning had a litle prevalency with him I pursued on in my Argument with these or the like Words Sir Is it not sufficient that I am your Slave why then must I be kept in Chains when as others have their liberty If it be so that you fear I should go from you Know this That you can not keep me longer than I list for I can at once part with my Life and take leav of this miserable Bondage which if you persist to use me so inhumanly I am resolved to do This I could perceiv wrought in him no small change for he was naturally very covetous and would have lost the price of a Slave Besides that it is a Maxim of their Law that if any person do any way murther himself the House is to be accursed and pulled down to the Ground My Patron considering what the Issue of this might be altho I had not the lest thoughts to lay violent hands upon my self he therefore to prevent the worst sold me to one Hadsy Mahomet Sala a Persian for 25 Abbas that was about 30 Shillings sterl which is but a small sum in comparison to the ordinary Market price of Argiers and other places in Barbary My new Patron spoke the Russian Tongue very well by which means we came to understand one another the better for he used me more kindly than the other and would often bid me have courage saying he would go with me to Ispahan where there were many English Dutch and other Europeans and probably those that would buy me off his hands and so set me at Liberty again which gave me no small encouragement to do my utmost to please him On the 12 dito I went with my new Master to Derbent and sailed with him several times over the Caspian Sea his principal dealing being in Crap which with several other Roots used in Dying grow there in great abundance He had also a small Bark of his own wherein he transported his own Commodities This said Vessel alwayes lay in a Bay about half a League from the City and thither his Slaves alwaies brought the Wares for about Derbent it is very rocky and unsafe for Vessels to lie at Anchor in case of Storm or tempestuous Weather But in the said Bay is very good anchorage at 6 7 and 8 Fathom Water and a clay ground with Shells The Coast from Baynak to Masanderan is altogether sandy and here and there low land where appear the Tops of the Dagestan Hills between those two Coasts it is all a long very good anchorage there being many fair Roads able to receive Ships of a greater burthen than are usually built for this Sea there are also many fair Towns built for the most part at the mouths of Rivers and have many Vessels and Shipping belonging to them as well for Traffic and Transportation of Merchandizes as for the Fishing trade for this Sea is very plentiful of Fish and brings up the King of Persia an incredible sum of Money yearly receiving from some as Toll and from others as Contribution In the Bay of Gilan are 2 great Whirl-pools for which the Persians are very fearfull in sailing from their
his Head with his Body our Countreyment at Astrachan call Dickkop Thickpate But by the Persians Nachay that is Devourer This Fish is of a more than ordinary strength and somtimes will overturn a small Boat with a stroak of his Tail CHAP. XX. A Description of Derbent it's Walls The Sultans Court. Very old Ruins Divers Watch-towers Multiplicity of Sepulchrets without Derbent Their Slave-Market The Author sold again His Patron married with a Polish Woman and runs into Danger of his Life The Intention of his Patroness in running away from her Husband and taking the Author with her Two of Mr. Struys's Companions come to Derbent How they made their escape from the Tartars The great Inclination of the Sultan of Derbent to the Hollanders A Device put in practise to set one of the Authors Companions at Liberty The Prince takes the Wife of Brak for his own Brak makes his escape DErbent the first City under the Jurisdiction of the King of Persia on the Caspian Sea lies in 41 degr 50 min. northerly Latitude This City lies longwise East and West from the Sea side to the Land and is according to computation about 2 English miles long One side thereof lies so near to the Sea that the Waves beat against the Walls and in a Storm or tempestuous Weather the Surges rise over the Walls This is also reckoned as a Barrier against the Irruption of the Tartars and other Savages being the only place on all that Coast for many miles together where they can come ashoar for the Shoar is there naturally secured with a steep Bank and wholly inaccessible Wherefore this City is not improperly called Derbent which in their Language imports as much as The Kingdoms Key Der signifying a Key and Bent a Kingdom or Countrey and so the City Gammeron on the Indian Coast is called Bender which is the same Word with transposition of the Syllables and a little variation of the Dialect This Town is very strongly munited with a Stone-Wall and as some say was built by Alexander the Great who had here his Residence for som time althô there doth not any Building remain of his save only the Wall on the South side and the Fortress but all the Fortifications on the North were built by the famous Nauschirwan King of the Medes having no other Foundation than a solid Rock The Walls both on the North and the South side are so broad that Horses and Waggons may ride all along and the Stones are of a hard rock brought hither from a Hill not far distant from the Town being all equally 6 foot Square On the Wall of Alexander for it still bears his name is an oblong Stone having an ancient Inscription in old Syriac and Arabic Characters which none now a days can read The City Derbent is divided into 3 parts The uppermost Ward or Quarter stands on a rising Ground and has a Fortress furnished with Brass-Cannon and at that time when I was there and since the Uproar of the Cosacs it has bin Strengthned with a Garrison of 1000 or 1200 Soldiers and in this Quarter is the Sultans Court. The Midle Ward is inhabited by Persians but the Buildings go mostly to decay The Lowest Ward is about 2000 paces long but this part is only tilled and used for Gardens and as they say has been heretofore inhabited by Greeks bearing still the name of Schaher Iunan or City of the Greeks Above Derbent appear the Ruins of a Wall which reached from thence to the Necropont or Euxin Sea which has been a work of an incredible Charge and Labour In som places the said Wall appears very plain and is about four Foot thick Round about this City are also divers stone Redoubts whereof Four are furnished with Ammunition and a Garrison of Soldiers suitable to the Occasion of the Times In the Countrey round about are also the Ruins of many strong Castles insomuch that it plainly appears in what esteem this Place has bin with the Median and Persian Monarchs in times past Not far from this City are also som Watch-towers of Wood which are raised exceeding high so that they can with ease descry the approachment of an Enemy in time of War On that side of the Town which faces the Countrey are many Sepulchrets or Tombs som of an oblong form and others semicircular being in breadth about a mans length and hollowed so that a Man may easily ly in them In this great Sepulchre was in times past a famous Battel fought between Cassan King of the Medes and the Dagestan Tartars where the former had a notable overthrow with the loss of several Thousand men and the principal Heros and Leaders were buried in those Tombs Between this place and the Sea is also another Plat of Ground environed with a high wall wherein are 40 Tombs under which are so many Persian and Median Princes interred and made sacred to Memory Upon the Walls are several Flags pitched and by each an old Man to beg an Alms of such as out of Devotion and a Religious Zeal come to visit this place as it is throughout all Persia held very meritorious to visit the Sepulchres and Graves of the Deceased This Superstition besides that of Bathing is all the Ceremonies and Rules which their Religion prescribes the Women who receiv their Directions and are injoined by their Parents and Husbands what to do being secluded out of the Mosquees Within Derbent live no Christians but altogether Mahometans except a few Iews who boast themselvs to be descended from the house of Benjamin these commonly follow base and dishonorable Traffic as buying of Prize-goods and Booty taken at Sea which the Dagestan Tartars bring thither to market The rest of the Inhabitants likewise trade in buying and selling of Slaves that being the main and almost only Merchandize they deal in which they buy of the Dagestan Plagiaries and send all over Persia making an incredible gain thereof Those that are brought hither for Slaves are very unhappy for they are no more looked upon than an unreasonable Animal or Bruit and when they are about buying they pull of their Cloaths and grope them all over as if it were a Swine or a Calf Besides their low esteem they have for Slaves as to their Persons they are very unkind and void of Mercy so that were it not for the Loss of so much money very few of those wretched caitiffs would die a natural Death Those people being by nature very prone to Anger and besides that too jealous to live upon Earth thinking that if a Slave do but smile or cast a friendly look toward one of their Wives that something extraordinary must be in the case althô I had never reason to complain of my Patron for any such thing but one that lived in the neighbourhood was much addicted to that inquietude and restless humour The bed where I lay was upon the Top of the house for coolness sake
Cold no Oranges Lemmons nor the Usefull Vine will take or like there only Apples and Pears they have which were but just ripe when we were there and as they say have no Blossoms till May or June but without the Mountains it is very warm and affoards good Plenty of the abovesaid Fruits The arable Ground here is very fertile except where it is suffocated with the Sand that the Whirl-winds bring about and Wheat is both good and cheap for having order from my Patron to buy som Bread I had 12 Loavs weighing each 4 po●ds for the Value of an English Shilling and that very white and good Bread In this part of the Countrey is also very good Pasturage which is no small Profit to the Schach or King who has imposed a Toll of Four pence half penny for every Sheep great and small that passes the Bridge which by reason of the vast Flocks and great Inclination of the People to bring up Cattel brings up yearly an incredible sum of Money At that time when I was there were Commissioners appointed by the King himself althô 2 years before it was farmed out and the King coming to understand what large Profits superabounded to the Farmers thought good to bring that Remnant into his own Coffers as a Corolary One of those said Commissioners being an old Acquaintance of my Patron told him that when they turned over the Accounts they had found Toll taken for above 700000 Sheep between March and September which amounts to more then 26000 lb. Sterl which is considerable for the bare passage only but far greater is the Toll which is imposed on every Sheep that is sold Within the Jurisdiction of Ardebil lie 57 Villages and Hamlets and those so close together that the Town is easily supplied with plenty of Lactuaries or what else the Land affoards Ardebil is a very great Town but not close built for every eminent House has a Garden or Orchard behind it At this day it lies without Walls Trenches and other Muniments It is watered with one small Rivulet which they call Baluchlu taking its first spring from the Mountains of Scamaschu about 6 miles to the Southward of Ardebil Before the Town it divides its self into two Channels the one running into the Town and so forward till it finds the Carasu This River is somtimes very small especially in the Summer but about March and April when it ordinarily rains very hard with the Snow and concurrency of the Water that settles off from the Mountains swells to an● incredible bigness and overruns the Banks so that against this time they usually make a Catarract or Dam which diverts it from the Town and upon negligence or want of due Repair of the same the Town is in danger of being lost as in the time of Schach Abas the great● the Dam being not sufficient the Waters came with that suddenness from the Mountains that it made an irruption and washed away a great part of the Town the Houses being mostly built of Clay and a sort o● Brick In this unexpected Innundation they record many Men and Cattle to have been carried away with the violence of the Floods I● Ardebil are 5 Capital Streets to wit Derwansche Tabar Niardouve● Kumbolan and Keserkuste all these were very stately and broad being pla●ted with rows of Ash Teil-or Linden-Trees which is very pleasan● and cool in hot weather Besides these 5 great Streets are also many fai● ones but narrower and not beplanted with Trees whereof the chie● are Bander chan Kamankar Degme Daglir and Ursumi Mahele famous or to say more properly infamous for Whores who have here their Residence and ply all over the Town and in the Carawanseras and are reckoned as a Corporation or Gild. These are all Poetesses by Occupation som Composing Elogies and Hymns in the Praise of A● and Hosseyn others do make Encomiums setting out the Noble Deeds of the Scach and others dance naked before the Chan. c. These of all that ever I have seen in my Life are the most impudent and sensual for they perceiving me to be a Stranger pester'd me as I wen● along the Streets and gave me work enough to keep their Hands ou● of my Codpiece Moreover so sensual and beastly have I observed then to be by their Conversation with young-men who are not shie or it the lest ashamed althô at noon day in the middle of the Street that should not willingly use that immodesty to relate all I have seen Ther● are also several Squares and Plains with Piazzas and Galleries round about in and under which are very rich shops They have also a Place of Refuge whither Malefactors betake themselvs at the Entrance whereof is an Oratory or Chappel in which lie interred the Body of a reputed Saint But the Delinquent fearing himself unsafe can easily gain the great Sanctuary of Scech Sephys Mescaich or Sepulchre whence the King himself should want the Heart to fetch him out by force Coming from this Maydan or Sanctuary you com to the Basar or great Market-plain On this Plain is reared a very magnificent and sumptuous Building four square in which as in our Exchanges are sold all manner of costly Wares and rich Merchandizes as Cloth of Gold and Silver Jewels Precious Stones Tapestry Silks c. This Place they call the Kaysery Behind this you find three Streets almost arched over in which there are many Shops stored with Wares of less value The Carawanseras or Inns of Ardebil are very numerous and those frequented each with a distinct sort of People as Turks Tartarians and Indians who sojourn to and again upon the account of Merchandise In Ardebil are many fair Metzids or Temples whereof one they call Adine surpasses all the rest being founded upon the Top of a Hill in the middle of the Town and besides that graced with a pompous Tower which outbraves all the rest in the City rearing its Top aloft to an exceeding great Height This Temple is thought worthy only to be visited on Fridays which according to the Institution of Mahomet is their Sabbath and from hence it has it's name Before this Temple is a Fountain brought by an Aqueduct from a Place about 5 English miles without the City at the Charges of Muhamed Risa the Rochtaf or Chancellor of Persia The design thereof is that every one willing to visit the Holy Sepulchre must first wash himself there CHAP. XXVIII Hadzi Byram goes to perform his Religious Duties at the Sepulchre of Zeyde Tzebrail The Author begs of his Lord that he may be Spectator of the Ceremonies which at last after many intreaties is granted A Description of that noble Mausoleum Famous Baths in Ardebil The Sulphurous Baths whither the Author accompanies his Patron The manner of using those Baths The stupendious and sumptuous Sepulchre of Scach Sephy described The great Zeal and Devotion of Hadzi Byram The Oratory or House of Prayer where as they say
to blow hard again and the Pyrats left us bearing up close to the Coast The Surgeon had again hid his Gold in a place where they did not once make search for it THE Wind continued hard till Thursday following blowing mostly from North-W and by N. and now changed again into W. N. W. which was good and favourable for us but the Banians would in no wise give their consent that we should weigh Anchor for that they thought it too high and boistrous BUT on Saturday the Wind continuing still in the same point we weighed and with a fresh Gale steered away South and by West and soon after descried a small Vessel riding at Anchor being one of those that left Astrachan with us those aboard were Persians and had the luck to escape the Cosacks keeping off at Sea When they saw who we were they weighed and kept us company Towards the Evening the Wind blew North-East and I found that we had sailed too much Westerly I press'd hard that we should alter our course but could not praevail with them to steer another way so that in the Morning we found our selves close to the Coast and had the Wind at East and by N. With this sort of Shipping it is very difficult to steer without 12 points of the Compass Wind to their advantage HOWEVER we thought good to keep close to the Coast but towards the Evening it growing calm we rowed off to the Seaward and lost the other Vessel Meanwhile we began to be distressed for want of Provision and fed of the crums of moldy Bread and the greatest part of the Company had no more to eat But the Banjans were best provided and imparted to us such as they had INTERIM the Wind came about East and E. and by S. so that we were constrained to drop Anchor and so to ride three days at half a fathom Water Yet growing calmer we ever now and then rowed a little But having spent all our ●ood were at a great loss for Fewel to bake bread of that little quantity of Meal which the Banians had left and were fain at last to cut up some parts of the Ship ●r Chips which stood us in very good stead The Wind then continued Easterly and we steered as far Southerly as we could till on the 10 th of September towards the Evening we came to a good place of Anchorage near the Coast of 5 Foot water where I stept ashoar to seek up some Wood and Herbs or what else I thought might be serviceable to us on our Voyage ON Thursday being the 11 th of September we sailed close by the Coast which we kept in sight till Saturday following when as the Banians a poor and helpless People not able to endure such hardship pressed very hard that we should put ashoar which out of meer pity we were willing to do being all wet and very cold MEANWHILE we were set upon by a party of Cosacks who now the third time plundered us but the Chirurgeon not having time nor the conveniency to hide his Ducats as before digged a hole and hid them in the Sand and threw down his Musquet about the same place for a token to find them again I also being afraid ●an and hid my self among the Reeds but they making a very narrow scrutiny ●ound me out and having by me a Psalmbook found that passage or Title of a Psalm where David is said to have feigned himself mad before the Philistines to escape them I resolved to do the like by which means I escaped When they had me they disputed what Countreyman I was and some of them said I was a Dutchman but others said I was a Georgian and to my Happiness the latter sway'd it However not without wounding and killing of some of our Company they let us go and themselvs departed from us which the Chirurgeon seeing went and after much seeking found his Gold ON the 20 of September it was very good Weather we therefore made ready to set sail About noon being under sail we saw about 30 Tartars on the Strand who called out to us that we should come ashoar This unwelcom summons mainly added to our fear insomuch that one of the Banians ran ashoar and fell down upon his Knees The Boat was drawn ashoar and after they had consulted a little together what they should do with us they demanded Ransom which was agreed upon for 3 Rubbles each Man They were Circas and Nagayan Tartars and accepted of one of the Banians for a Pledge till the Ransom was paid We went about two Miles with them and left our Vessel behind us I had with me a little Coffer of Books which I carried along with me and was fain to trudge a foot without either Shoes or Stockings thrô Thistles and Brambles insomuch that my Feet were all blistered and bloody Towards the Evening we came in a Bay where their Shipping lay Here I met with an Armenian whom I had formerly known at Astrachan who treated me very kindly as also my Companion the Chirurgeon but we having in so long a time not eaten any thing which was fitting for human food did Anatomize what was set before us at such that the Armenian observing it thought good to take away before we had half satisfied ourappetite for fear we should surfeit our selves HERE we tarried three Days waiting for a good Wind to go for Tarku but that not falling out in this time are determined rather to go by land than to stay there Wind-bound it being not above a Days Journey yet very perillous for the Tartars who continually lay in wait for distressed and stranded Passengers in these unhappy Proceedings of the Cosacks who made the Caspian Sea very unsafe to sail ON Tuseday being the 30 of September we set forward and after a very tedious Days Travel thrô Boggs and Marshes we got to a Village inhabited by Nagaya● Tartars where we took up our nights rest in the Circas Quarter Here we met with a Friend of the Chirurgeons whom we offered 8 Ducats to conduct us to Derbent which he undertook to do Here I spoke also with Ivan Turken Agent to his Imperial Majesty who was a Turk born but a Russian Proselyte and had a Brother at M●scöu who was of the Reformed Religion and an intimate Friend of mine This said Gentleman intreated me to stay longer at Terku but I declined their kind offer yet was fain to accept of it for 2 Days having so charged and overloaden my stomach with eating that I fell sick upon it ON the 6th of October we set forward for Derbent in company with the Banians Now by the way you are to note that every day we suffered such hunger a Mans ransom was thrown into the water which the superstitious Banians hold for a special act of Piety and a Religious Injunction By the way we met som Thousand of Tartars for whom we were not a little affraid they being Nagayans and noted