Yams Potatoes c. to carry aboard with us on which we fed commonly all our Voyage But after six or seven Months I left that employ also and shipt my self aboard one Capt. Hudsel who was bound to the Bay of Campeachy to load Logwood We sailed from Port-Royal about the beginning of August in 1675. in Company with Capt. Wren in a small Jamaica Bark and Capt. Johnson Commander of a Ketch belonging to New-England This Voyage is all the way before the Wind and therefore Ships commonly sail it in 12 or 14 Days Neither were we longer in our Passage for we had very fair Weather and touch'd no where till we came to Trist Island in the Bay of Campeachy which is the only place they go to In our way thither we first sailed by little Caimanes leaving it on our Larboard side and Key Monbrack which are two small Islands lying South of Cuba The next Land we saw was the Isle of Pines and steering still Westerly we made Cape Corienes And sailing on the South side of Cuba till we came to Cape Antonio which is the West end of it we stretched over towards the Peninsula of Jucatan and fell in with Cape Catoch which is in the Extream part of that Promontory towards the East The Land trends from this Cape one way South about 40 Leagues till you come to the Island Cozumel and from thence it runs S. W. down into the Bay of Honduras About 10 Leagues from Cape Catoch between it and Cozumel lies a small Island called by the Spaniards Key-Muger or Womens-Island because 't is reported that when they went first to settle in these parts they left their Wives there while they went over on the main to find some better Habitation Tho' now they have no settlement near it whatever they have had formerly About 3 Leagues from Cape Catoch and just against it is a small Island called Loggerhead-Key probably because it is frequently visited by a sort of Turtle so called near this Island we always find a great ripling which Seamen call the Rip-raps This Cape tho' it appears to be part of the Main yet is divided from it by a small Creek scarce wide enough for a Canoa to pass through though by it 't is made an Island This I have been credibly informed of by some who yet told me that they made a shift to pass it in a Canoa The Cape is very low Land by the Sea but somewhat higher as you go further from the shore It is all over-grown with Trees of divers sorts especially Logwood and therefore was formerly much frequented by the Jamaica Men who came thither in Sloops to load with it till all the Logwoodtrees near the Sea were cut down but now 't is wholly abandoned because the Carriage of it to the shore requires more labour than the cutting logging and chipping Besides they find better Wood now in the Bays of Campeachy and Honduras and have but little way to carry it not above 300 Paces when I was there whereas at Cape Catoch they were forc'd to carry it 1500 Paces before they left that Place From Cape Catoch we coasted along by the shore on the North side of Jucatan towards Cape Condecedo The Coast lies nearest West The distance between these two Capes is about 80 Leagues The shore lies pretty level without any visible Points or Bendings in the Land It is woody by the shore and full of sandy Bays and lofty Mangroves The first place of Note to the West of Cape Catoch is a small Hill by the Sea call'd the Mount and is distant from it about 14 Leagues It is very remarkable because there is no other High-Land on all this Coast. I was never ashore here but have met with some well acquainted with the Place who are all of opinion that this Mount was not natural but the Work of Men And indeed it is very probable this Place has been inhabited for here are a great many large Cisterns supposed to have been made for the receiving of Rain-water for there are no fresh Springs to be found here the Soil being all sandy and very salt So that as I have been credibly informed by an intelligent Person the Spaniards do fetch of it to make Salt-Petre He also told me that being once there in a Privateer and landing some Men on the Bay they found about 100 Packs of this Earth bound up in Palmeto-leaves and a Spanish Mulatto to guard it The Privateers at first sight of the Packs were in hopes there had been Maiz or Indian Corn in them which they then wanted but opening them they found nothing but Earth and examining the Mulatto for what use it was he said to make Powder and that he expected a Bark from Campeachy to fetch it away He further told me that tasting of it he found it very salt as all the Earth thereabouts was So that 't is not improbable that those Cisterns were made for the carrying on a Salt-Petre-Work But whatever was the design at first it is now wholly laid aside for there is no use made of them neither are there any Inhabitants near this Place Between the Mount and Cape Condecedo close by the Sea are many little Spots of Mangrove-trees which at a distance appear-like Islands but coming nearer when other lower Trees appear it shews like ragged and broken Ground but at last all the Land presents it self to your view very even The next Place of Note on this Coast is Rio de la Gartos almost in the Mid-way between Cape Catoch and Cape Condecedo This also is a very remarkable Place for here are 2 Groves of High Magnroves one on each side the River by which it may be known very well The River is but small yet deep enough for Canoas The Water is good and I know not any other Brook or fresh River on all the Coast from Cape Catoch till within 3 or 4 Leagues of Campeachy Town A little to the East of this River is a Fish-Range and a small Indian Hutt or two within the Woods where the Indian Fishers who are subject to the Spaniards lye in the Fishing-Seasons their Habitations and Familes being farther up in the Country Here are Poles to hang their Nets on and Barbecues to dry their Fish When they go off to Sea they fish with Hook and Line about 4 or 5 Leagues from the shore for Snappers and Gropers which I have already described in my Voyage round the VVorld Chap. 4. Pag. 91. Since the Privateers and Logwood-ships have sailed this way these Fisher-men are very shy having been often snap'd by them So that now when they are out at Sea if they see a Sail they presently sink their Canoas even with the edge of the Water for the Canoas when they are full of Water will sink no lower and they themselves lye just with their heads above Water till the Ship which they saw is pass'd by or comes Night I have seen them under
have not been known on the North side of the Island where the Mountains are bordering on the Sea or at least but a little distance off it For there they are supplied with seasonable Showers almost all the Year and even in the dry time it self near the Full and Change of the Moon But in the wet Season the Rains are more violent which is their Inconvenience As for the Valleys in the Country they are not subject to such Droughts as the plain Land by the Sea at least I have not observed it my self nor have I heard it mentioned by others The Isle of Pines near Cuba is so noted a place for Rain that the Spaniards inhabiting near it on Cuba say that it rains more or less every day in the Year at one place or another It is generally spoken also believ'd by Privateers for it has been oft visited by them I have been there my self but cannot confirm that report However it is well known to be a very wet and rainy place It is but a small Island of about 9 or 10 Leagues long and 3 or 4 broad and in the midst is a high pecked Mountain which is commonly clouded and the Privateers say that this Hill draws all the Clouds to it for if there is not another Cloud to be seen any where else yet this Hill is seldom or never clear Gorgonia in the South Seas also has the same report It is much smaller than Pines I have mentioned it in my Voyage round the World Chap. VII Page 172. This Isle lies about 4 Leagues from the Main but the Isle of Pines not above 2 and is a great deal bigger than it The Main against Gorgonia is very low Land but Cuba near Pines is pretty high and the Mountain of Pines is much bigger and higher than the Hill of Gorgonia which yet is of a good height so that it may be seen 16 or 18 Leagues off And tho' I cannot say that it rains every day there yet I know that it rains very much and extraordinary hard I have been at this Isle three times and always found it very rainy and the Rains very violent I remember when we touch'd there in our return from Captain Sharp we boiled a Kettle of Chocolate before we clean'd our Bark and having every Man his Callabash full we began to sup it off standing all the time in the Rain but I am confident not a Man among us all did clear his Dish for it rained so fast and such great drops into our Callabashes that after we had sup'd off as much Chocolate and Rain-Water together as suffised us our Callabashes were still above half full and I heard some of the Men swear that they could not sup it up so fast as it rained in at last I grew tir'd with what I had left and threw it away and most of the rest did so likewise As Clouds do usually hover over Hills and Mountains so do they also keep near the Land I have mentioned something of this in my Voyage round the World Chap. X. Page 283. where I have said that in making Land we commonly find it Cloudy over the Land tho' 't is clear every where beside And this may still confirm what I have said in the foregoing Discourse that Hills are commonly clouded for High Land is the first discerned by us and that as I said before is commonly clouded But now I shall speak how we find the Clouds when we are but a little way from Land either coasting along the shore or at an Anchor by it I hope the Reader will not imagine that I am going to prove that it never Rains at Sea or but very little there for the contrary is known to every Body and I have already said in this Discourse of Winds in my first Chapter That there are very frequent Tornadoes in several Seas especially near the Equator and more particularly in the Atlantick Sea Other Seas are not so much troubled with them neither is the Atlantick so to the North or South of the Line especially at any considerable distance from the shore but yet 't is very probable however that the Sea has not so great a portion of Tornadoes as the Land hath For when we are near the shore within the torrid Zone we often see it rain on the Land and perceive it to be very cloudy there when it is fair at Sea and scarce a Cloud to be seen that way And though we have the Wind from the shore the Clouds seeming to be drawing off yet they often wheel about again to the Land as if they were Magnetically drawn that way Sometimes indeed they do come off a little but then they usually either return again or else insensibly vanish and that 's the Reason that Seamen when they are sailing near the shore and see a Tornado coming off they don't much mind it but cry the Land will devour it But however sometimes they fly off to Sea And 't is very rare that Tornadoes arise from thence for they generally rise first over the Land and that in a very strange manner for even from a very small Cloud arising over the top of a Hill I have often seen it increase to such a bulk that I have known it rain for 2 or 3 days successively This I have observed both in the East and VVest Indies and in the South and North Seas And 't is impossible for me to forget how oft I have been disturbed by such small Clouds that appeared in the Night 'T is usual with Seamen in those parts to sleep on the Deck especially for Privateers among whom I made these Observations In Privateers especially when we are at an Anchor the Deck is spread with Mats to lye on each Night Every Man has one some two and this with a Pillow for the Head and a Rug for a Covering is all the Bedding that is necessary for Men of that Employ I have many times spread my Lodging when the Evening has promised well yet have been forced to withdraw before Day and yet it was not a little Rain that would afright me then neither at its first coming could I have thought that such a small Cloud could afford so much Rain And oftentimes both my self and others have been so deceived by the appearance of so small a Cloud that thinking the Rain would soon be over we have lain till we were dropping wet and then have been forced to move at last But to proceed I have constantly observed that in the wet Season we had more Rain in the Night than in the day for though it was fair in the Day yet we seldom escaped having a Tornado or two in the Night If we had one in the Day it rose and came away presently and it may be we had an Hours Rain more or less but when it came in the Night though there was little appearance of Rain yet we should have it 3 or 4 Hours together but
Accounts is now nothing but a Name For I have lain ashore in the place where that City stood but it is all overgrown with Wood so as to leave no sign that any Town hath been there We staid at the Isle of Blanco not above 10 days and then went back to Salt-Tortuga again where Captain Yanky parted with us and from thence after about 4 days all which time our men were drunk and quarrelling we in Captain Wright's Ship went to the Coast of Caraccos on the Main Land This Coast is upon several accounts very remarkable 'T is a continu'd tract of high Ridges of Hills and small Valleys intermix'd for about â—…o leagues stretching East and West but in such manner that the Ridges of Hills and the Valleys alternately run pointing upon the shore from South to North the Valleys some of them about 4 or 5 others not above 1 or 2 furlongs wide and in length from the Sea scarce any of them above 3 or 4 mile at most there being a long Ridge of Mountains at that distance from the Sea-Coast and in a manner parallel to it that joins those shorter Ridges and closeth up the South end of the Valleys which at the North ends of them lye open to the Sea and make so many little Sandy Bays that are the only Landing-places on all the Coast. Both the main Ridge and these shorter Ribs are very high Land so that 3 or 4 leagues off at Sea the Valleys scarce appear to the Eye but all looks like one great Mountain From the Isles of Roda's about 15 and from the Isle of Aves about 20 leagues off we see this Coast very plain from on board our Ships yet when at Anchor on this Coast we cannot see those Isles tho again from the tops of these Hills they appear as if at no great distance like so many Hillocks in a Pond These Hills are barren except the lower sides of them that are cover'd with some of the same rich black Mould that fills the Valleys and is as good as I have seen In some of the Valleys there is a strong red Clay but in the general they are extremely fertil well watered and inhabited by Spaniards and their Negro's They have Maiz and Plantains for their support with Indian Fowls and some Hogs But the main product of these Valleys and indeed the only Commodity it vends are the Cacao-Nuts of which the Chocolate is made The Cacao-Tree grows no where in the North Seas but in the Bay of Campechy on Costa Rica between Portabel and Nicaragua chiefly up Carpenters River and on this Coast as high as the Isle of Trinidada In the South Seas it grows on the River of Guiaquil a little to the Southward of the Line and in the Valley of Collina on the South side of the Continent of Mexico both which places I shall hereafter describe Besides these I am confident there is no place in the world where the Cacao grows except those in Jamaica of which there are now but few remaining of many and large Walks or Plantations of them found there by the English at their first arrival and since planted by them and even these though there is a great deal of pains and care bestowed on them yet seldom come to any thing being generally blighted The Nuts of this Coast of Caracco's though less than those of Costa Rica which are large flat Nuts yet are better and fatter in my opinion being so very oily that we are forced to use Water in rubbing them up and the Spaniards that live here instead of parching them to get off the Shell before they pound or rub them to make Chocolate do in a manner burn them to dry up the Oil for else they say it would fill them too full of blood drinking Chocolate as they do 5 or 6 times a day My worthy Consort Mr. Ringrose commends most the Guiaquil Nut I presume because he had little knowledge of the rest for being intimately acquainted with him I know the course of his Travels and Experience But I am persuaded had he known the rest so well as I pretend to have done who have at several times been long used to and in a manner lived upon all the several sorts of them above mentioned he would prefer the Caraccos Nut before any other yet possibly the drying up of these Nuts so much by the Spaniards here as I said may lessen their Esteem with those Europeans that use their Chocolate ready rubb'd up so that we always chose to make it up our selves The Cacao-Tree hath a body about a foot and an half thick the largest sort and 7 or 8 foot high to the Branches which are large and spreading like an Oak with a pretty thick smooth dark-green leaf shap'd like that of a Plumb-Tree but larger The Nuts are inclosed in Cods as big as both a Mans fists put together At the broad end of which there is a small tough limber stalk by which they hang pendulous from the body of the Tree in all parts of it from top to bottom scattered at irregular distances and from the greater branches a little way up especially at the joints of them or parting 's where they hang thickest but never on the smaller boughs There may be ordinarily about 20 or 30 of these Cods upon a well-bearing Tree and they have 2 Crops of them in a year one in December but the best in June The Cod it self or Shell is almost half an inch thick neither spongy nor woody but of a substance between both brittle yet harder than the Rind of a Lemmon like which its surface is grained or knobbed but more course and unequal The Cods at first are of a dark Green but the side of them next the Sun of a Muddy Red. As they grow ripe the Green turns to a fine bright Yellow and the Muddy to a more lively beautiful Red very pleasant to the Eye They neither ripen nor are gather'd at once but for three weeks or a month when the Season is the Overseers of the Plantations go every day about to see which are turn'd yellow cutting at once it may be not above one from a Tree The Cods thus gathered they lay in several heaps to sweat and then bursting the Shell with their hands they pull out the Nuts which are the only substance they contain having no stalk or pith among them and excepting that these Nuts lye in regular rows like the grains of Maiz but sticking together and so closely stowed that after they have been once separated it would be hard to place them again in so narrow a compass There are generally near 100 Nuts in a Cod in proportion to the greatness of which for it varies the Nuts are bigger or less When taken out they dry them in the Sun upon Mats spread on the ground after which they need no more care having a thin hard skin of their own and much Oil which preserves them Salt water will
Provision because he was not so forward to go thither as Captain Davis However at last these differences were made up and we concluded to go into the Bay of Panama to a Town called La Velia but because we had not Canoas enough to land our Men we were resolved to search some Rivers where the Spaniards have no commerce there to get Indian Canoas CHAP. VII They leave the Isle of Plata Cape Passao The Coast between that and Cape St. Francisco and from thence on to Panama The River of St. Jago The Red and the White Cotton tree The Cabbage tree The Indians of St. Jago River and its Neighbourhood The Isle of Gallo The River and Village of Tomaco Isle of Gorgona The Pearl-Oysters there and in other parts The Land on the Main Cape Corrientes Point Garachina Island Gallera The Kings or Pearl Islands Pacheque St. Paul 's Island Lavelia Nata The Clamfish Oysters The pleasant Prospects in the Bay of Panama Old Panama The New City The great Concourse there from Lima and Portobel c. upon the Arrival of the Spanish Armada in the West Indies The Course the Armada takes with an incidental Account of the first Inducements that made the Privateers undertake the passage over the Isthmus of Darien into the South Seas and of the particular beginning of their Correspondence with the Indians that inhabit that Isthmus Of the Air and Weather at Panama The Isles of Perico Tabago apleasant Island The Mammee tree The Village Tabago A Spanish Stratagem or two of Capt. Bond their Engineer The Ignorance of the Spaniards of these parts in Sea Affairs A Party of French Privateers arrive from over Land Of the Commissions that are given out by the French Governour of Petit-Guavres Of the Gulf of St. Michael and the Rivers of Congos Sambo and Sta Maria and an Error of the common Maps in the placing Point Garachina and Cape St. Lorenzo corrected Of the Town and Gold Mines of Sta Maria and the Town of Scuchadero Capt. Townley 's Arrival with some more English Privateers over Land Jars of Pisco wine A Bark of Capt. Knight 's joins them Point Garachina again Porto de Pinas Isle of Otoque The Pacquet from Lima taken Other English and French Privateers arrive Chepelio one of the sweetest Islands in the World The Sapadillo Avogato pear Mammee Sappota Wild Mammee and Star apple Cheapo River and Town Some Traversings in the Bay of Panama and an account of the Strength of the Spanish Fleet and of the Privateers and the Engagement between them THE 23d day of December 1684 we sailed from the Island Plata towards the Bay of Panama The Wind at S. S. E. a fine brisk gale and fair weather The next morning we past by Cape Passao This Cape is in lat 00 d. 08 m. South of the Equator It runs out into the Sea with a high round point which seems to be divided in the midst It is bald against the Sea but within land and on both sides it is full of short Trees The Land in the Country is very high and mountainous and it appears to be very woody Between Cape Passao and Cape Saint Francisco the Land by the Sea is full of small Points making as many little Sandy Bays between them and is of an indifferent heighth cover'd with Trees of divers sorts So that sailing by this Coast you see nothing but a vast Grove or Wood which is so much the more pleasant because the Trees are of several forms both in respect to their growth and colour Our design was as I said in my last Chapter to search for Canoas in some River where the Spaniards have neither Settlement nor Trade with the native Indians We had Spanish Pilots and Indians bred under the Spaniards who were able to carry us into any Harbour or River belonging to the Spaniards but were wholly unacquainted with those Rivers which are not frequented by the Spaniards There are many such unfrequented Rivers between Plata and Panama indeed all the way from the Line to the Gulf of St. Michaels or even to Panama it self the Coast is not inhabited by any Spaniards nor are the Indians that inhabit there any way under their subjection except only near the Isle Gallo where on the banks of a Gold River or two there are some Spaniards who work there to find Gold Now our Pilots being at a loss on these less frequented Coasts we supply'd that defect out of the Spanish Pilot books which we took in their Ships These we found by experience to be very good Guides Yet nevertheless the Country in many places by the Sea being low and full of openings Creeks and Rivers it is somewhat difficult to find any particular River that a man designs to go to where he is not well acquainted This however could be no discouragement to us for one River might probably he as well furnished with Indian Canoas as another and if we found them it was to us indifferent where yet we pitcht on the River Saint Jago not because there were not other Rivers as large and as likely to be inhabited with Indians as it but because that River was not far from Gallo an Island where our Ships could anchor safely and ride securely We past by Cape St. Francisco meeting with great and continued Rains The Land by the Sea to the North of the Cape is low and extraordinary woody the Trees are very thick and seem to be of a prodigious height and bigness From Cape Saint Francisco the Land runs more Easterly into the Bay of Panama I take this Cape to be its bounds on the South side and the Isles of Cobaya or Quibo to bound it on the North side Between this Cape and the Isle Gallo there are many large and navigable Rivers We passed by them all till we came to the River St. Jago This River is near 2 d. North of the Equator It is large and navigable some leagues up and 7 leagues from the Sea it divides it self into two parts making an Island that is 4 leagues wide against the Sea The widest branch is that on the S. W. side of the Island Both branches are very deep but the mouth of the narrower is so choakt with sholes that at low water even Canoas cannot enter Above the Island it is a league wide and the Stream runs pretty streight and very swift The Tide flows about 3 leagues up the River but to what height I know not Probably the River hath its original from some of the rich Mountains near the City of Quito and it runs thro a Country as rich in soil as perhaps any in the world especially when it draws within 10 or 12 leagues of the Sea The Land there both on the Island and on both sides of the River is of a black deep Mold producing extraordinary great tall Trees of many sorts such as usually grow in these hot Climates I shall only give an account of the
consorted with us and set his Men to work to make Canoas Every Ships company made for themselves but we all helped each other to launch them for some were made a mile from the Sea The manner of making a Canoa is after cutting down a large long Tree and squaring the upper-most side and then turning it upon the flat side to shape the opposite side for the bottom Then again they turn her and dig the inside boring also three holes in the bottom one before one in the middle and one aloft thereby to gage the thickest of the bottom for otherwise we might cut the bottom thinner than is convenient We left the bottoms commonly about 3 inches thick and the sides 2 inches thick below and one and an half at the top One or both of the ends we sharpen to a point Captain Davis made two very large Canoas one was 36 foot long and 5 or 6 feet wide the other 32 foot long and near as wide as the other In a months time we finished our business and were ready to sail Here Captain Harris went to lay his Ship aground to clean her but she being old and rotten fell in pieces and therefore he and all his Men went aboard of Captain Davis and Captain Swan While we lay here we struck Turtle every day for they were now very plentiful but from August to March here are not many The 18th day of July John Rose a Frenchman and 14 Men more belonging to Captain Gronet having made a new Canoa came in her to Captain Davis and desired to serve under him and Captain Davis accepted of them because they had a Canoa of their own The 20th day of July we sailed from Quibo bending our course for Ria Lexa which is the Port for Leon the City that we now designed to attempt We were now 640 men in 8 sail of Ships Commanded by Captain Davis Captain Swan Captain Townly and Captain Knight with a Fireship and 3 Tenders which last had not a constant crew We past out between the River Quibo and the Rancheria leaving Quibo and Quicaro on our Larboard side and the Rancheria with the rest of the Islands and the Main on our Starboard side The Wind at first was at South South West We coasted along shore passing by the Gulf of Nicoya the Gulf of Dulce and by the Island Caneo All this Coast is low Land overgrown with thick Woods and there are but few inhabitants near the shore As we sailed to the Westward we had variable winds sometimes S. W. and at W. S. W. and sometimes at E. N. E. but we had them most commonly at S. W. we had a Tornado or two every day and in the evening or in the night we had land winds at N. N. E. The 8th day of August being in the lat of 11 d. 20 m. by observation we saw a high Hill in the Country towring up like a Sugar-loaf which bore N. E. by N. We supposed it to be Volcan Vejo by the smoak which ascended from its top therefore we steered in North and made it plainer and then knew it to be that Volcan which is the Sea-mark for the harbour for Ria Lexo for as I said before in Chapter the 5th it is a very remarkable Mountain When we had brought this Mountain to bear N. E. we got out all our Canoas and provided to embark into them the next day The 9th day in the morning being about 8 leagues from the shore we left our Ships under the charge of a few men and 520 of us went away in 31 Canoas rowing towards the Harbour of Ria Lexa We had fair Weather and little Wind till 2 a clock in the afternoon then we had a Tornado from the shore with much Thunder Lightning and Rain and such a gust of Wind that we were all like to be founder d. In this extremity we put right afore the Wind every Canoas crew making what shift they could to avoid the threatning danger The small Canoas being most light and buoyant mounted nimbly over the Surges but the great heavy Canoas lay like logs in the Sea ready to be swallowed by every foaming billow Some of our Canoas were half full of water yet kept two men constantly heaving it out The fierceness of the Wind continued about half an hour and abated by degrees and as the Wind died away so the fury of the Sea abated For in all hot Countries as I have observed the Sea is soon raised by the Wind and as soon down again when the Wind is gone and therefore it is a proverb among the Sea-men Up Wind up Sea Down Wind down Sea At 7 a clock in the evening it was quite calm and the Sea as smooth as a Mill-pond Then we tugg'd to get into the shore but finding we could not do it before day we rowed off again to keep our selves out of sight By that time it was day we were 5 leagues from the Land which we thought was far enough off shore Here we intended to lye till the evening but at 3 a clock in the afternoon we had another Tornado more fierce than that which we had the day before This put us in greater peril of our lives but did not last so long As soon as the violence of the Tornado was over we rowed in for the shore and entered the Harbour in the night The Creek which leads towards Leon lieth on the S. E. side of the Harbour Our Pilot being very well acquainted here carried us into the mouth of it but could carry us no farther till day because it is but a small Creek and there are other Creeks like it The next morning as soon as it was light we rowed into the Creek which is very narrow the Land on both sides lying so low that every tide it is overflown with the Sea This sort of Land produceth red Mangrove-trees which are here so plentiful and thick that there is no passing thro them Beyond these Mangroves on the firm Land close by the side of the River the Spaniards have built a Brestwork purposely to hinder an Enemy from landing When we came in sight of the Brestwork we rowed as fast as we could to get ashore The noise of our Oars allarmed the Indians who were set to watch and presently they ran away towards the City of Leon to give notice of our approach We landed as soon as we could and marched after them 470 men were drawn out to march to the Town and I was left with 59 men more to stay and guard the Canoas till their return The City of Leon is 20 mile up in the Country The way to it plain and even through a champion Country of long grassy Savannahs and spots of high Woods About 5 mile from the landing place there is a Sugar work 3 mile farther there is another and 2 mile beyond that there is a fine River to ford which is not very deep besides which there is
up their mother Fruit did not the Indians who plant large fields of these Trees when once they perceive the Fruit open take care to drive them out for they spread under the branches of the Tree a large Linnen cloth and then with sticks they shake the branches and so disturb the poor insects that they take wing to be gone yet hovering still over the head of their native Tree but the heat of the Sun so disorders them that they presently fall down dead on the cloth spread for that purpose where the Indians let them remain 2 or 3 days longer till they are throughly dry When they fly up they are red when they fall down they are black and when first they are quite dry they are white as the sheet wherein they lye though the colour change a little after These yield the much esteemed Scarlet The Cochineel-trees are called by the Spaniards Toona's They are planted in the Country about Guatimala and about Cheape and Guaxaca all 3 in the Kingdom of Mexico The Silvester is a red grain growing in a Fruit much resembling the Cochineel-fruit as doth also the Tree that bears it There first shoots forth a yellow Flower then comes the Fruit which is longer than the Cochineel-fruit The Fruit being ripe opens also very wide The inside being full of these small Seeds or Grains they fall out with the least touch or shake The Indians that gather them hold a dish under to receive the Seed and then shake it down These Trees grow wild and 8 or 10 of these Fruits will yield an ounce of Seed but of the Cochineel-fruits 3 or 4 will yield an ounce of insects The Silvester gives a colour almost as fair as the Cochineel and so like it as to be often mistaken for it but it is not near so valuable I often made enquiry how the Silvester grows and of the Cochineel but was never fully satisfied till I met a Spanish Gentleman that had lived 30 years in the West Indies and some years where these grow and from him I had these relations He was a very intelligent person and pretended to be well acquainted in the Bay of Campechy therefore I examined him in many particulars concerning that Bay where I was well acquainted my self living there 3 years He gave very true and pertinent answers to all my demands so that I could have no distrust of what he related When we first saw the Mountain of Guatimala we were by judgment 25 leagues distance from it As we came nearer the Land it appeared higher and plainer yet we saw no fire but a little smoak proceeding from it The Land by the Sea was of a good height yet but low in comparison with that in the Country The Sea for about 8 or 10 leagues from the shore was full of floating Trees or Drift Wood as it is called of which I have seen a great deal but no where so much as here and Pumice-stones floating which probably are thrown out of the burning Mountains and washed down to the shore by the Rains which are very violent and frequent in this Country and on the side of Honduras it is excessively wet The 24th day we were in lat 14 d. 30 m. North and the weather more settled Then Captain Townly took with him 106 men in 9 Canoas and went away to the Westward where he intended to Land and romage in the Country for some refreshment for our sick men we having at this time near half our men sick and many were dead since we left Ria Lexa We in the Ships lay still with our Topsails furled and our Corses or lower Sails hal'd up this day and the next that Captain Townly might get the start of us The 26th day we made sail again coasting to the Westward having the Wind at North and fair weather We ran along by a tract of very high Land which came from the Eastward more within Land than we could see after we fell in with it it bare us company for about 10 leagues and ended with a pretty gentle descent towards the West There we had a perfect view of a pleasant low Country which seemed to be rich in Pasturage for Cattle It was plentifully furnished with groves of green Trees mixt among the grassy Savannahs Here the Land was fenced from the Sea with high sandy Hills for the Waves all along this Coast run high and beat against the shore very boisterously making the Land wholly unapproachable in Boats or Canoas So we Coasted still along by this low Land 8 or 9 leagues farther keeping close to the shore for fear of missing Captain Townly We lay by in the night and in the day made an easie sail The 2d day of October Captain Townly came aboard he had coasted along shore in his Canoas seeking for an entrance but found none At last being out of hopes to find any Bay Creek or River into which he might safely enter he put ashore on a sandy Bay but overset all his Canoas he had one man drowned and several lost their Arms and some of them that had not waxt up their Cartrage or Catouche Boxes wet all their Powder Captain Townly with much ado got ashore and dragged the Canoas up dry on the Bay then every man searched his Catouche-box and drew the wet Powder out of his Gun and provided to march into the Country but finding it full of great Creeks which they could not ford they were forced to return again to their Canoas In the night they made good fires to keep themselves warm the next morning 200 Spaniards and Indians fell on them but were immediately repulsed and made greater speed back than they had done forward Captain Townly followed them but not far for fear of his Canoas These men came from Teguantapeque a Town that Captain Townly went chiefly to seek because the Spanish Books make mention of a large River there but whether it was run away at this time or rather Captain Townly and his men were short sighted I know not but they could not find it Upon his return we presently made sail coasting still Westward having the Wind at E. N. E. fair weather and a fresh gale We kept within 2 mile of the shore sounding all the way and found at 6 miles distance from Land 19 fathom at 8 miles distance 21 fathom gross Sand. We saw no opening nor sign of any place to land at so we sailed about 20 leagues farther and came to a small high Island called Tangola where there is good anchoring The Island is indifferently well furnished with Wood and Water and lieth about a league from the shore The Main against the Island is pretty high champion Savannah Land by the Sea but 2 or 3 leagues within land it is higher and very woody We coasted a league farther and came to Guatulco This Port is in lat 15 d. 30 m. it is one of the best in all this Kingdom of Mexico Near a mile
and small The Hill Petaplan A poor Indian Village Jew fish Chequetan a good Harbour Estapa Muscles there A Caravan of Mules taken A Hill near Thelupan The Coast here abouts The Volcan Town Valley and Bay of Colima Sallagua Port. Oarrha Ragged Hills Coronada or the Crown-Land Cape Corrientes Isles of Chametly The City Purification Valderas or the Valley of Flags They miss their design on this Coast. Captain Townly leaves them with the Darien Indians The Point and Isles of Pontique Other Isles of Chametly The Penguin fruit the yellow and the red Seals here Of the River of Cullacan and the Trade of a Town there with California Massaclan River and Town of Rosario Caput Cavalli and another Hill The difficulty of Intelligence on this Coast. The River of Oleta River of St. Jago Maxentelba Rock and Zelisco Hill Sancta Pechaque Town in the River of St. Jago Of Compostella Many of them cut off at Sancta Pecaque Of California whether an Island or not and of the North West and North East Passage A Method proposed for Discovery of the North West and North East Passages Isle of Santa Maria. A prickly Plant. Captain Swan proposes a Voyage to the East Indies Valley of Balderas again and Cape Corrientes The reason of their ill Success on the Mexican Coast and Departure thence for the East Indies IT was the 12th of October 1685 when we set out of the Harbour of Guatulco with our Ships The Land here lies along West and a little Southerly for about 20 or 30 leagues and the Sea Winds are commonly at W. S. W. sometimes at S. W. the Land Winds at N. We had now fair weather and but little Wind. We coasted along to the Westward keeping as near the shore as we could for the benefit of the Land Winds for the Sea Winds were right against us and we found a current setting to the Eastward which kept us back and obliged us to anchor at the Island Sacrificio which is a small green Island about half a mile long It lieth about a league to the West of Guatulco and about half a mile from the Main There seems to be a fine Bay to the West of the Island but it is full of Rocks The best riding is between the Island and the Main there you will have 5 or 6 fathom Water Here runs a pretty strong tide the Sea riseth and falleth 5 or 6 foot up and down The 18th day we sailed from hence coasting to the Westward after our Canoas We kept near the shore which was all sandy Bays the Country pretty high and woody and a great Sea tumbling in upon the shore The 22d day 2 of our Canoas came aboard and told us they had been a great way to the Westward but could not find Port Angels They had attempted to land the day before at a place where they saw a great many Bulls and Cows feeding in hopes to get some of them but the Sea run so high that they over-set both Canoas and wet all their Arms and lost 4 Guns and had one Man drown'd and with much ado got off again They could give no account of the other 2 Canoas for they lost company the first night that they went from Guatulco and had not seen them since We were now abrest of Port Angels though our men in the Canoas did not know it therefore we went in and anchored there This is a broad open Bay with 2 or 3 Rocks at the West side Here is good anchoring all over the Bay in 30 or 20 or 12 fathom Water but you must ride open to all Winds except the Land Winds till you come into 12 or 13 fathom Water then you are sheltered from the W. S. W. which are the common Trade Winds The Tide riseth here about 5 foot the Flood sets to the N. E. and the Ebb to the S. W. The landing in this Bay is bad the place of landing is close by the West side behind a few Rocks here always goes a great swell The Spaniards compare this Harbour for goodness to Guatulco but there is a great difference between them For Guatulco is almost Landlocked and this is an open road and no one would easily know it by their Character of it but by its marks and its latitude which is 15 d. North. For this reason our Canoas which were sent from Guatulco and ordered to tarry here for us did not know it not thinking this to be that fine Harbour and therefore went farther 2 of them as I said before returned again but the other 2 were not yet come to us The Land that bounds this Harbour is pretty high the Earth sandy and yellow in some places red it is partly Woodland partly Savannahs The Trees in the Woods are large and tall and the Savannahs are plentifully stored with very kindly Grass Two leagues to the East of this place is a Beef Farm belonging to Don Diego de la Rosa. The 23 day we landed about 100 men and marched thither where we found plenty of fat Bulls and Cows feeding in the Savannahs and in the House good store of Salt and Maiz and some Hogs and Cocks and Hens but the owners or overseers were gone We lay here 2 or 3 days feasting on fresh provision but could not contrive to carry any quantity aboard because the way was so long and our men but weak and a great wide River to ford Therefore we return'd again from thence the 26th day and brought every one a little Beef or Pork for the men that stay'd aboard The two nights that we stay'd ashore at this place we heard great droves of Jaccals as we suppos'd them to be barking all night long not far from us None of us saw these but I do verily believe they were Jaccals tho I did never see those Creatures in America nor hear any but at this time We could not think that there were less than 30 or 40 in a company We got aboard in the evening but did not yet hear any news of our two Canoas The 27th day in the morning we sailed from hence with the Land Wind at N. by W. The Sea Wind came about noon at W. S. W. and in the evening we anchored in 16 fathom water by a small rocky Island which lieth about half a mile from the Main and 6 leagues Westward from Port Angels The Spaniards give no account of this Island in their Pilot-book The 28th day we sailed again with the Land Wind in the afternoon the Sea breez blew hard and we sprung our Main Topmast This Coast is full of small Hills and Valleys and a great Sea falls in upon the shore In the night we met with the other 2 of our Canoas that went from us at Guatulco They had been as far as Acapulco to seek Port Angells Coming back from thence they went into a River to get Water and were encounterd by 150 Spaniards yet they fill'd their Water in spight of them but
were perfectly at a loss to find out the Houses or Town they came from The 28th day being tired and hopeless to find any Town we went aboard our Ships that were now come abrest of the place where we were for always when we leave our Ships we either order a certain place of meeting or else leave them a sign to know where we are by making one or more great Smoaks yet we had all like to have been ruin'd by such a signal as this in a former Voyage under Captain Sharp when we made that unfortunate attempt upon Arica which is mentioned in the History of the Buccaneers For upon the routing our Men and taking several of them some of those so taken told the Spaniards that it was agreed between them and their Companions on board to make two great Smokes at a distance from each other assoon as the Town should be taken as a signal to the Ship that it might safely enter the Harbour The Spaniards made these Smokes presently I was then among those who stay'd on board and whether the signal was not so exactly made or some other discouragement happen'd I remember not but we forbore going in till we saw our scatter'd Crew coming off in their Canoas Had we entred the Port upon the false signal we must have been taken or sunk for we must have past close by the Fort and could have had no Wind to bring us out till the Land-wind should rise in the night But to our present Voyage After we came aboard we saw the Volcan of Colima This is a very high Mountain in about 18d 36m North standing 5 or 6 leagues from the Sea in the midst of a pleasant Valley It appears with 2 sharp peeks from each of which there do always issue flames of fire or smoke The Valley in which this Volcan stands is called the Valley of Colima from the Town itself which stands there not far from the Volcan The Town is said to be great and rich the chief of all its Neighborhood and the Valley in which it is seated by the relation which the Spaniards give of it is the most pleasant and fruitful Valley in all the Kingdom of Mexico This Valley is about 10 or 12 leagues wide by the Sea where it makes a small Bay but how far the Vale runs into the Country I know not It is said to befull of Cacao gardens fields of Corn Wheat and Plantain-walks The neighbouring Sea is bounded with a sandy shore but there is no going ashore for the violence of the waves The Land within it is low all along and Woody for about 2 leagues from the East side at the end of the Woods there is a deep River runs out into the Sea but it hath such a great Bar or Sandy shole that when we were here no Boat or Canoa could possibly enter the Sea running so high upon the Bar otherwise I judge we should have made some farther discovery into this pleasant Valley On the West side of the River the Savannah land begins and runs to the other side of the Valley We had but little wind when we came aboard therefore we lay off this Bay that afternoon and the night ensuing The 29th day our Captains went away from our Ships with 200 men intending at the first convenient place to land and search about for a path for the Spanish Books make mention of 2 or 3 other Towns hereabouts especially one called Sallagua to the West of this Bay Our Canoas rowed along as near the shore as they could but the Sea went so high that they could not land About 10 or 11 a clock 2 Horsemen came near the shore and one of them took a Bottle out of his pocket and drank to ourmen While he was drinking one of our men snatcht up his Gun and let drive at him and kill'd his Horse so his consort immediately set Spurs to his Horse and rode away leaving the other to come after afoot But he being Booted made but slow haste therefore 2 of our men stript themselves and swam ashore to take him but he had a Macheat or long Knife wherewith he kept them both from seizing him they having nothing in their hands wherewith to defend themselves or offend him The 30th day our men came all aboard again for they could not find any place to land in The first day of December we passed by the Port of Sallagua This Port is in lat 18 d. 52 m. It is only a pretty deep Bay divided in the middle with a rocky point which makes as it were two Harbours Ships may ride securely in either but the West Harbour is the best there is good anchoring any where in 10 or 12 fathom and a Brook of fresh Water runs into the Sea Here we saw a great new thatched House and a great many Spaniards both Horse and Foot with Drums beating and Colours flying in defiance of us as we thought We took no notice of them till the next morning and then we landed about 200 Men to try their Courage but they presently withdrew The Foot never stay'd to exchange one shot but the Horsemen stay'd till 2 or 3 were knocked down and then they drew off our Men pursuing them At last 2 of our Men took 2 Horses that had lost their Riders and mounting them rode after the Spaniards full drive till they came among them thinking to have taken a Prisoner for Intelligence but had like to have been taken themselves for 4 Spaniards surrounded them after they had discharged their Pistols and unhorsed them and if some of our best Footmen had not come to their rescue they must have yielded or have been killed They were both cut in 2 or 3 places but their wounds were not mortal The 4 Spaniards got away before our Men could hurt them and mounting their Horses speeded after their Consorts who were marched away into the Country Our Men finding a broad Road leading into the Country followed it about 4 leagues in a dry stony Country full of short Woods but finding no sign of Inhabitants they returned again In their way back they took two Mulatto's who were not able to march as fast as their Consorts therefore they had skulked in the Woods and by that means thought to have escaped our Men. These Prisoners informed us that this great Road did lead to a great City called Oarrha from whence many of those Horsemen before spoken of came that this City was distant from hence as far as a Horse will go in 4 days and that there is no place of consequence nearer that the Country is very poor and thinly inhabited They said also that these Men came to assist the Phillippine Ship that was every day expected here to put ashore Passengers for Mexico The Spanish Pilot-Books mention a Town also called Sallagua hereabouts but we could not find it nor hear any thing of it by our Prisoners We now intended to cruize off of Cape
the Horse-men had each abrace of Pistols and some short Guns If the Foot had come in they had certainly destroy'd all our men When the skirmish was over our men plac'd the two wounded men on Horses and came to their Canoas There they kill'd one of the Horses and drest it being afraid to venture into the Savannah to kill a Bullock of which there was store When they had eaten and satisfy'd themselves they returned aboard The 25th day being Christmas we cruized in pretty near the Cape and sent in 3 Canoas with the Strikers to get Fish being desirous to have a Christmas dinner In the afternoon they returned aboard with 3 great Jew-fish which feasted us all and the next day we sent ashore our Canoas again and got 3 or 4 more Captain Townly who went from us at Chametly came aboard the 28th day and brought about 40 bushels of Maiz. He had landed to the Eastward of Cape Corrientes and march'd to an Indian Village that is 4 or 5 leagues in the Country The Indians seeing him coming set 2 houses on fire that were full of Maiz and run away Yet he and his men got in other houses as much as they could bring down on their backs which he brought aboard We cruized off the Cape till the first day of January 1686 and then made towards the Valley Valderas to hunt for Beef and before night we anchored in the bottom of the Bay in 60 fathom water a mile from the shore Here we stay'd hunting till the 7th day and Captain Swan and Captain Townly went ashore every morning with about 240 men and marched to a small hill where they remain'd with 50 or 60 men to watch the Spaniards who appear'd in great companies on other hills not far distant but did never attempt any thing against our men Here we kill'd and salted above 2 months meat besides what we spent fresh and might have kill'd as much more if we had been better stor'd with Salt Our hopes of meeting the Philippine Ship were now over for we did all conclude that while we were necessitated to hunt here for Provisions she was past by to the Eastward as indeed she was as we did understand afterwards by Prisoners So this design fail'd through Captain Townley's eagerness after the Lima Ship which he attempted in Acapulco Harbour as as I have related For though we took a little Flower hard by yet the same Guide which told us of that Ship would have conducted us where we might had store of Beef and Maiz but instead thereof we lost both our time and the opportunity of providing our selves and so were forced to be victualling when we should have been cruizing off Cape Corrientes in expectation of the Manila Ship Hitherto we had coasted along here with 2 different designs The one was to get the Manila Ship which would have enriched us beyond measure and this Captain Townly was most for Sir Tho. Cavendish formerly took the Manila Ship off Cape St. Lucas in California where we also would have waited for her had we been early enough stored with Provisions to have met her there and threw much rich Goods over-board The other design which Captain Swan and our Crew were most for was to search along the Coast for rich Towns and Mines chiefly of Gold and Silver which we were assured were in this Country and we hoped near the shore not knowing as we afterwards found that it was in effect an Inland Country its Wealth remote from the South Sea Coast and having little or no commerce with it its Trade being driven Eastward with Europe by La Vera Cruz. Yet we had still some expectation of Mines and so resolved to steer on farther Northward But Captain Townly who had no other design in coming on this Coast but to meet this Ship resolved to return again towards the Coast of Peru. In all this Voyage on the Mexican Coast we had with us a Captain and 2 or 3 of his Men of our friendly Inaians of the Isthmus of Darien who having conducted over some Parties of our Privateers and expressing a desire to go along with us were received and kindly entertained aboard our Ships and we were pleas'd in having by this means Guides ready provided should we be for returning over Land as several of us thought to do rather than sail round about But at this time we of Captain Swan's Ship designing farther to the North West and Captain Townly going back we committed these our Indian Friends to his care to carry them home So here we parted he to the East-ward and we to the Westward intending to search as far to the Westward as the Spaniards were settled It was the 7th day of January in the morning when we sailed from this pleasant Valley The Wind was at N. E. and the weather fair At 11 a clock the Sea-wind came at N. W. Before night we passed by Point Pontique this is the West point of the Bay of the Valley of Valderas and is distant from Cape Corrientes 10 leagues This point is in lat 20 d. 50 m. North it is high round rocky and barren At a distance it appears like an Island A league to the West of this point are two small barren Islands called the Islands of Pontique There are several high sharp white Rocks that lye scattering about them we past between these rocky Islands on the left and the Main on the right for there is no danger The Sea-coast beyond this point runs Northward for about 18 leagues making many ragged points with small sandy Bays between them The Land by the Sea side is low and pretty woody but in the Country full of high sharp barren rugged unpleasant Hills The 14th day we had sight of a small white Rock which appears very much like a Ship under sail This Rock is in lat 21 d. 15 m. it is 3 leagues from the Main There is a good Channel between it and the Main where you will have 12 or 14 fathom water near the Island but running nearer the Main you will have gradual soundings till you come in with the shore At night we anchored in 6 fathom water near a league from the Main in good oazy ground We caught a great many Cat-fish here and at several places on this Coast both before and after this From this Island the Land runs more Northerly making a fair sandy Bay But the Sea falls in with such violence on the Shore that there is no landing but very good anchoring on all the Coast and gradual soundings About a league off shore you will have 6 fathom and 4 mile off shore you will have 7 fathom water We came to an anchor every evening and in the mornings we sailed off with the Land-wind which we found at N. E. and the Sea-breezes at N. W. The 20th day we anchored about 3 miles on the East side of the Islands Chametly different from those of that name before-mentioned for
men that was left ashore I shall speak more of him hereafter He and the rest of them told me that after the Ship was out of sight the Natives began to be more kind to them than they had been before and perswaded them to cut their Hair short as theirs was offering to each of them if they would do it a young Woman to Wife and a small Hatchet and other Iron Utenfils fit for a Planter in Dowry and withal shewed them a piece of Land for them to manage They were courted thus by several of the Town where they then were but they took up their head-quarters at the house of him with whom they first went ashore When the Ship appeared in sight again then they importuned them for some Iron which is the chief thing that they covet even above their Ear-rings We might have bought all their Ear-rings or other Gold they had with our Iron-bars had we been assur'd of its goodness and yet when it was touch'd and compared with other Gold we could not discern any difference tho it look'd so pale in the lump but the seeing them polish it so often was a new discouragement This last Storm put our Men quite out of heart for although it was not altogether so fierce as that which we were in on the Coast of China which was still fresh in memory yet it wrought more powerfully and frighted them from their design of cruising before Manila fearing another Storm there Now every Man wisht himself at home as they had done an hundred times before but Captain Reed and Captain Teat the Master perswaded them to go towards Cape Comorin and then they would tell them more of their minds intending doubtless to cruize in the Red Sea and they easily prevailed with the Crew The Eastern Monsoon was now at hand and the best way had been to go through the Streights of Malacca but Captain Teat said it was dangerous by reason of many Islands and Shoals there with which none of us were acquainted Therefore he thought it best to go round on the East side of all the Philippine Islands and so keeping South toward the Spice Islands to pass out into the East Indian Ocean about the Island Timor This seemed to be a very tedious way about and as dangerous altogether for Sholes but not for meeting with English or Dutch Ships which was their greatest fear I was well enough satisfied knowing that the farther we went the more Knowledge and Experience I should get which was the main thing that I regarded and should also have the more variety of places to attempt an Escape from them being fully resolv'd to take the first opportunity of giving them the slip CHAP. XVI They depart from the Bashee Islands and passing by some others and the N. End of Luconia St. John's Isle and other of the Philippines they stop at the two Isles near Mindanao where they re-fit their Ship and make a Pump after the Spanish fashion By the young Prince of the Spice-Island they have News of Captain Swan and his men left at Mindanao The Author proposes to the Crew to return to him but in vain the story of his Murder at Mindanao The Clove-Islands Ternate Tidore c. The Island Celebes and Dutch Town of Macasser They Coast along the East side of Celebes and between it and other Islands and Sholes with great Difficulty Shy Turtle Vast Cookles A wild Vine of great Virtue for Sores Great Trees one excessively big Beacons instead of Buoys on the Sholes A Spout a Description of them with a story of one Uncertain Tornadoes Turtle The Island Bouton and its chief Town and Harbour Callasusung The Inhabitants Visits given and receiv'd by the Sultan His Device in the Flag of his Proe his Guards Habit and Children Their Commerce Their different esteem as they pretend of the English and Dutch Maritime Indians sell others for Slaves Their Reception in the Town A Boy with 4 Rows of Teeth Parakites Crockadores a sort of White Parrots They pass among other Inhabited Islands Omba Pentare Timor c. Sholes New-Holland laid down too much Northward It s Soil and Dragon trees The poor Winking Inhabitants their Features Habit Food Arms c. The way of fetching Fire out of Wood. The Inhabitants on the Islands Their Habitations Unfitness for Labour c. The great Tides here They design for the Island Cocos and Cape Comorin THE third day of October 1687. we sailed from these Islands standing to the Southward intending to sail through among the Spice Islands We had fair weather and the wind at West We first steered S. S. W. and passed close by certain small Islands that lye just by the North end of the Island Luconia We left them all on the West of us and past on the East side of it and the rest of the Philippine Islands coasting to rhe Southward The N. East end of the Island Luconia appears to be good Champion Land of an indifferent heighth plain and even for many leagues only it has some pretty high Hills standing upright by themselves in these Plains but no ridges of Hills or chains of Mountains joyning one to another The Land on this side seems to be most Savannah or Pasture The S. E. part is more Mountainous and Woody Leaving the Island Luconia and with it our Golden projects we sailed on the Southward passing on the East side of the rest of the Philippine Islands These appear to be more Mountainous and less Woody till we came in sight of the Island St. John the first of that name I mentioned the other I spake of on the Coast of China This I have already described to be a very woody Island Here the Wind coming Southerly forced us to keep farther from the Islands The 14th day of October we came close by a small low Woody Island that lyeth East from the S. E. end of Mindanao distant from it about 20 leagues I do not find it set down in any Sea-Chart The 15th day we had the Wind at N. E. and we steered West for the Island Mindanao and arrived at the S. E. end again on the 16th day There we went in and anchored between two small Islands which lye in about 5 d. 10 m. N. Lat. I mentioned them when we first came on this Coast. Here we found a fine small Cove on the N. W. end of the Eastermost Island fit to Careen in or hale ashore so we went in there and presently unrigged our Ship and provided to hale our Ship ashore to clean her bottom These Islands are about 3 or 4 leagues from the Island Mindanao they are about 4 or 5 miles in circumference and of a pretty good heighth The mold is black and deep and there are two small Brooks of fresh Water They are both plentifully stored with great high Trees therefore our Carpenters were sent ashore to cut down some of them for our use for here they made a new Boltsprit
Esperance or of Good Hope finding that they might now proceed Eastward There is good Sounding off this Cape 50 or 60 leagues at Sea to the Southward and therefore our English Seamen standing over as they usually do from the Coast of Brazil content themselves with their Soundings concluding thereby that they are abrest of the Cape they often pass by without seeing it and begin to shape their course Northward They have several other signs whereby to know when they are near it as by the Sea-Fowl they meet at Sea especially the Algatrosses a very large long-winged Bird and the Mangovolucres a smaller Fowl But the greatest dependance of our English Seamen now is upon their observing the variation of the Compass which is very carefully minded when they come near the Cape by taking the Suns Amplitude mornings and evening This they are so exact in that by the help of the Azimuth Compass an Instrument more peculiar to the Seamen of our Nations they know when they are abrest of the Cape or are either to the East or the West of it and for that reason though they should be to Southward of all the Soundings or fathomable ground they can shape their course right without being obliged to make the Land But the Dutch on the contrary having settled themselves on this Promontory do always touch here in their East India Voyages both going and coming The most remarkable Land at Sea is a high Mountain steep to the Sea with a flat even top which is called the Table Land On the West side of the Cape a little to the Northward of it there is a spacious Harbour with a low flat Island lying off it which you may leave on either hand and pass in or out securely at either end Ships that anchor here ride near the Main Land leaving the Island at a farther distance without them The Land by the Sea against the Harbour is low but backt with high Mountains a little way in to the Southward of it The Soil of this Country is of a brown colour not deep yet indifferently productive of Grass Herbs and Trees The Grass is short like that which grows on our Wiltshire or Dorsetshire Downs The Trees hereabouts are but small and few the Country also farther from the Sea does not much abound in Trees as I have been informed The Mould or Soyl also is much like this near the Harbour which though it cannot be said to be very fat or rich Land yet it is very fit for cultivation and yields good Crops to the industrious Husbandman and the Country is pretty well settled with Farms Dutch Families and French Refugees for 20 or 30 leagues up the Country but there are but few Farms near the Harbour Here grows plenty of Wheat Barly Pease c. Here are also Fruits of many kinds as Apples Pears Quinces and the largest Pomgranats that I did ever see The chief Fruits are Grapes These thrive very well and the Country is of late years so well stockt with Vineyards that they make abundance of Wine of which they have enough and to spare and do sell great quantities to Ships that touch here This Wine is like a French High Country White Wine but of a pale yellowish colour it is sweet very pleasant and strong The tame Animals of this Country are Sheep Goats Hogs Cows Horses c. The Sheep are very large and fat for they thrive very well here This being a dry Country and the short pasturage very agreeable to these Creatures but it is not so proper for great Cattle neither is the Beef in its kind so sweet as the Mutton Of wild Beasts 't is said here are several sorts but I saw none However it is very likely there are some wild Beasts that prey on the Sheep because they are commonly brought into the Houses in the night and penn'd up There is a very beautiful sort of wild Al 's in this Country whose body is curiously striped with equal lists of white and black the stripes coming from the ridge of his Back and ending under the Belly which is white These stripes are two or three Fingers broad running parallel with each other and curiously intermixt one white and one black over from the Shoulder to the Rump I saw two of the Skins of these Beasts dried and preserved to be sent to Halland as a rarity They seemed big enough to inclose the Body of a Beast as big as a large Colt of a twelvemonth old Here are a great many Ducks Dunghil Fowls c. and Ostriges are plentifully found in the dry Mountains and Plains I eat of their Eggs here and those of whom I bought them told me that these creatures lay their Eggs in the Sand or at least on dry ground and so leave them to be hatch'd by the Sun The meat of one of their Eggs will suffice two men very well The Inhabitants do preserve the Eggs that they find to sell to strangers They were pretty scarce when I was here it being the beginning of their Winter whereas I was told they lay their Eggs about Christmas which is their Summer The Sea hereabouts affords plenty of Fish of divers sorts especially a small sort of Fish not so big as a Herring whereof they have such great plenty that they pickle great quantities yearly and send them to Europe Seales are also in great numbers about the Cape which as I have still observed is a good sign of the plentifulness of Fish which is their food The Dutch have a strong Fort by the Sea side against the Harbour where the Governour lives At about 2 or 300 paces distance from thence on the West side of the Fort there is a small Dutch Town in which I told about 50 or 60 Houses low but well built with Stone-walls there being plenty of Stone drawn out of a Quarry close by On the backside of the Town as you go towards the Mountains the Dutch East-India Company have a large House and a stately Garden walled in with a high Stone Wall This Garden is full of divers sorts of Herbs Flowers Roots and Fruits with curious spacious Gravel-walks and Arbors and is watered with a Brook that descends out of the Mountains which being cut into many channels is conveyed into all parts of the Garden The Hedges which make the Walks are very thick and 9 or 10 foot high They are kept exceeding neat and even by continual pruning There are lower Hedges within these again which serve to separate the Fruit-trees from each other but without shading them and they keep each sort of Fruit by themselves as Apples Pears abundance of Quinces Pomgranats c. These all prosper very well and bear good Fruit especially the Pomgranat The Roots and Garden-herbs have also their distinct places hedged in apart by themselves and all in such order that it is exceeding pleasant and beautiful There are a great number of Negro Slaves brought from other parts of the
assistance of the Doctors of the Fort a fine Air and good Kitchin and Cellar Physick soon recovered their healths Those that subscribed to be at all calls and assisted to bring in the Ship received Captain Heath's Bounty by which they furnished themselves with Liquor for their homeward Voyage But we were now so few that we could not sail the Ship therefore Captain Heath desired the Governour to spare him some men and as I was informed had a promise to be supplied out of the homeward bound Dutch East India Ships that were now expected every day and we waited for them In the mean time in came the James and Mary and the Josiah of London bound home Out of these we thought to have been furnished with men but they had only enough for themselves therefore we waited yet longer for the Dutch Fleet which at last arrived but we could get no men from them Captain Heath was therefore forced to get men by stealth such as he could pick up whether Soldiers or Seamen The Dutch knew our want of men therefore near 40 of them those that had a design to return to Europe came privately and offered themselves and waited in the night at places appointed where our Boats went and fetched 3 or 4 aboard at a time and hid them especially when any Dutch Boat came aboard our Ship Here at the Cape I met my friend Daniel Wallis the same who leapt into the Sea and swam at Pulo Condore After several Traverses to Madagascar Don Mascarin Ponticherri Pegu Cunnimere Maderas and the River of Hugli he was now got hither in a homeward bound Dutch Ship I soon perswaded him to come over to us and found means to get him aboard our Ship About the 23d of May we sailed from the Cape in the company of the James and Mary and the Josiah directing our Course towards the Island Santa Hellena We met nothing of remark in this Voyage except a great swelling Sea out of the S. W. which taking us on the broad side made us rowl sufficiently Such of our Water-Casks as were between Decks running from side to side were in a short time all staved and the Deck well washed with the fresh water The Shot tumbled out the Lockers and Garlands and rung a lowd peal rumbling from side to side every rowl that the Ship made neither was it an easie matter to reduce them again within bounds The Guns being carefully look'd after and lash'd fast never budgâ—d but the Tackles or Pulleys and Lashings made great Musick too The sudden and violent motion of the Ship made us fearful lest some of the Guns should have broken loose which must have been very detrimental to the Ships sides The Masts were also in great danger to be rowl'd by the board but no harm hapned to any of us besides the loss of 3 or 4 Butts of Water and a Barrel or 2 of good Cape Wine which was staved in the great Cabbin This great Tumbling Sea took us shortly after we came from the Cape The violence of it lasted but one Night yet we had a continual swelling came out of the S. W. almost during all the passage to Santa Hellena which was an eminent token that the S. W. Winds were now violent in the higher latitudes towards the South Pole for this was the time of the year for those Winds Notwithstanding this boisterous Sea coming thus obliquely upon us we had fine clear weather and a moderate gale at S. E. or between that and the East till we came to the Island Santa Hellena where we arrived the 20th day of June There we found the Princess Ann at an Anchor waiting for us The Island Santa Hellena lies in about 16 Degrees South lat The Air is commonly serene and clear except in the months that yield Rain yet we had one or two very rainy days even while we were here Here are moist seasons to plant and sow and the weather is temperate enough as to heat tho so near the Equator and very healthy The Island is but small not above nine or ten leagues in length and stands 3 or 400 leagues from the main Land It is bounded against the Sea with steep Rocks so that there is no landing but at 2 or 3 places The Land is high and Mountainous and seems to be very dry and poor yet there are fine Valleys proper for cultivation The Mountains appear bare only in some places you may see a few low Shrubs but the Valleys afford some Trees fit for building as I was informed This Island is said to have been first discover'd and settled by the Portuguese who stockt it with Goats and Hogs But it being afterwards deserted by them it lay waste till the Dutch finding it convenient to relieve their East India Ships settled it again but they afterwards relinquished it for a more convenient place I mean the Cape of Good Hope Then the English East India Company settled their Servants there and began to Fortify it but they being yet weak the Dutch about the year 1672 came thither and re-took it and kept it in their possession This news being reported in England Captain Monday was sent to re-take it who by the advice and conduct of one that had formerly lived there landed a Party of Armed Men in the night in a small Cove unknown to the Dutch then in Garrison and climbing the Rocks got up into the Island and so came in the morning to the Hills hanging over the Fort which stands by the Sea in a small Valley From thence firing into the Fort they soon made them surrender There were at this time two or three Dutch East India Ships either at Anchor or coming thither when our Ships were there These when they saw that the English were Masters of the Island again made sail to be gone but being chaced by the English Frigots 2 of them became rich prizes to Captain Monday and his men The Island hath continued ever since in the hands of the English East-India Company and hath been greatly strengthned both with Men and Guns so that at this day it is secure enough from the invasion of any Enemy For the common Landing-place is a small Bay like a Half-Moon scarce 500 paces wide between the two points Close by the Sea side are good Guns planted at equal distances lying along from one end of the Bay to the other besides a small Fort a little further in from the Sea near the midst of the Bay All which makes this Bay so strong that it is impossible to force it The small Cove where Captain Monday landed his men when he took the Island from the Dutch is scarce fit for a Boat to land at and yet that is now also fortified There is a small English Town within the great Bay standing in a little Valley between two high steep Mountains There may be about 20 or 30 small Houses whose Walls are built with rough Stones The inside
lyes a small Island call'd by the Spaniards Isles des Arenas but the English Seamen as is usual with them corrupt the Name strangely and some call it the Desarts others the Desarcusses but of this Island having never seen it I can give no Account All this Coast from Cape Catoch to Cape Condecedo is Low-Land the Mount only excepted It is most sandy Bay by the Sea yet some of it is Mangrovy-Land within which you have some spots of dry Savanah and small scrubbed Trees with short thick Bushes among them The Sea deepens gradually from the shore and Ships may Anchor in sandy Ground in any depth from 7 or 8 Foot to 10 or 12 Fathom Water In some Places on this Coast we reckon our distance from the shore by the depth of the Sea allowing 4 Fathom for the first League and for every Fathom afterward a League more But having got thus to Cape Condecedo I shall defer the further description of these Parts from this Cape Southward and Westward to the High-Land of St. Martin which is properly the Bay of Campeachy and from thence also further Westward till my second coming on this Coast when I made so long a stay here To proceed therefore with my prefent Voyage having past Cape Catoch the Mount Rio de la Gartos Sisal and Cape Condecedo we stood Southward directly for Trist the Haven of our Logwood-Cutters at which Place being not above 60 Leagues distant we soon arrived Trist is the Road only for big Ships Smaller Vessels that draw but a little Water run 3 Leagues farther by crossing over a great Lagune that runs from the Island up into the main-Main-Land where they anchor at a Place called One Bush-Key We stayed at Trist 3 days to fill our Water and then with our 2 Consorts sailed thence with the Tide of Blood and the same Tide arrived there This Key is not above 40 Paces long and 5 or 6 broad having only a little crooked Tree growing on it and for that reason it is called One-Bush-Key It seems to be only a heap of Shells for the Island is covered with them The greatest part are Oyster-shells There are a great many Oyster-banks in this Lagune and the adjacent Creeks but none afford better either for largeness or taste than the Bank about this Island In the wet Season the Oysters as well of One-Bush-Key as other Places here are made fresh by the Freshes running out of the Country But in the dry Time they are salt enough In the Creeks they are smaller but more numerous and the Mangrove-Roots that grow by the sides of the Creeks are loaden with them and so are all the Branches that hang in the Water One-Bush-Key is about a Mile from the shore and just against the Island is a small Creek that runs a Mile farther and then opens into another wide Lagune and through this Creek the Logwood is brought to the Ships riding at the Key Between the Oyster-Banks that lye about the Island and the Main there is good Riding in about 12 Foot Water The bottom is very soft Oaz insomuch that we are forced to shoo our Anchors to make them hold The Main by it is all Low mangrovy-Mangrovy-Land which is over-flow'd every Tide and in the Wet Season is covered with Water Here we lay to take in our Lading Our Cargo to purchase Logwood was Rum and Sugar a very good Commodity for the Logwood-Cutters who were then about 250 Men most English that had settled themselves in several Places hereabouts Neither was it long before we had these Merchants came aboard to visit us we were but 6 Men and a Boy in the Ship and all little enough to entertain them for besides what Rum we sold by the Gallon or Ferkin we sold it made into Punch wherewith they grew Frolicksom We had none but small Arms to fire at their drinking Healths and therefore the noise was not very great at a distance but on Board the Vessels we were loud enough till all our Liquor was spent We took no Money for it nor expected any for Logwood was what we came hither for and we had of that in lieu of our Commodities after the rate of 5 Pound per Tun to be paid at the Place where they cut it and we went with our Long-boat to fetch small Quanties But because it would have taken up a long time to Load our Vessel with our own Boat only we hired a Periago of the Logwood-Cutters to bring it on Board and by that means made the quicker dispatch I made two or three Trips to their Huts where I and those with me were always very kindly entertained by them with Pork and Pease or Beef and Dough-Boys Their Beef they got by hunting in the Savanahs As long as the Liquor lasted which they bought of us we were treated with it either in Drams or Punch But for a more particular Account of the Logwood-Cutters I shall refer the Reader to my second Voyage hither which I made shortly after my return to Jamaica because I saw a great prospect of getting Money here if Men would be but diligent and frugal But let 's proceed with our Voyage It was the latter end of September 1675. when we sailed from One-Bush-Key with the Tide of Ebb and anchored again at Trist that same Tide where we watered our Vessel in order to sail This we accomplished in two Days and the third day sailed from Trist towards Jamaica A Voyage which proved very tedious and hazardous to us by reason of our ships being so sluggish a Sailer that She would not ply to Wind-ward whereby we were necessarily driven upon several Shoals that otherwise we might have avoided and forced to spend 13 Weeks in our Passage is usually accomplished in half that time We had now a Passenger with us one Will. Wooders a Jamaica Seaman that with three others that were taken by the Spaniards was sent to the City of Mexico where they remained Prisoners 6 or 8 Months but at last were remanded to La vera Cruz and from thence by Sea to Campeachy They were not imprisoned but only kept to Work on Board the Ship that brought them and soon found an opportunity to make their escapes in this manner They had been imployed ashore all the day and being sent aboard at Night they fell to contrive how to run away with the Boat but considering that they wanted Necessaries for their Voyage they resolved first to go back and supply themselves which they might then do the better because they knew there were none but a few Indians on Board Accordingly having seized and bound the Indians taking with them a Compass with some Bread and Water they put off to Sea and arrivd at Trist a Week before our departure And this Will. Wooders was the means under God of the Preservation of our Ship The third day after we left Trist about 8 in the Morning near 12 or 14 Leagues W. S. W. from Campeachy
North of the Line and the Monsoons on the South of the Line is that in April when the West Monsoon sets in to the North of the Line the S. S. W. Winds sets in to the South of the Line and is called the S. S. W. Monsoon And in September when the East Monsoon sets in to the North of the Line the N. N. E. Wind blows in South Lat. and is called the N. N. E. Monsoon And whereas the West Monsoon is accompanied with Tornadoes and Rain in North Lat. the S. S. W. Monsoon which blows at the same time in South Lat. is accompanied with fair Weather And as the East Monsoon is attended with fair Weather in North Lat. the N. N. E. Monsoon which blows at the same time in South Lat. is attended with Tornadoes and very bad Weather And though these Winds do not shift exactly at one time in all Years yet Sept. and Apr. are always accounted the turning Months and do commonly participate of both sorts of Winds For these Monsoons do as constantly shift by turns as the Year comes about And by means of this change of Wind Ships have the benefit to sail from one part of India with one Wind and return with the contrary So that most of the Navigation in India depends on the Monsoons And Ships do constantly wait for these Changes and the Merchants fit out to any Place according as the Season of the Year draws on And wheresoever they go they certainly dispatch their business so as to return back again with the next or contrary Monsoon For here is no sailing to and from any Place but with the Monsoon One carries them out the other brings them back Neither do I know how it were possible for Merchants in these Parts to Trade by Sea from one Country to another were it not for these shifting Monsoons For as I have said before most of the Trading Kingdoms in India do lye between the Line and the Tropick of Cancer And the Land lies so to the North that Ships cannot go to the North of the Tropick and by that means get into a variable Winds way as they may and do in the West Indies when they are bound far to the Eastward Neither could it be any advantage to stand off to Sea as they may in the South Sea for that would be of little moment because they would then come so near the Line that they would be always lyable to Tornadoes and Calms And should they cross the Line and run to the Southward of it thinking that way to gain their Passage it is likely they might succeed no better there For that part of the Sea which lies to the Southward of the Line is open and free to the true Trade which seldom fails But indeed that VVind would carry them to the Southward quite beyond the Trade into a variable Winds-way But the Sea is not open there for Ships to pass so far to the Eastward as to gain their Ports For our East India Ships that are bound to Siam Tunqueen China c. cannot get thither but in the Season of the West Monsoon though they go directly from England and though after they are past the Cape they have the convenience to stretch to the Eastward as far as the Land will permit yet they cannot go so far as is convenient before they will be obliged to steer down within the Course of the Trade-Winds which would obstruct their Passage if they were as constant here as in other Places And therefore if these Anniversary Monsoons did not constantly succeed each other Ships could not pass but one way they might sail to the Westward but there they must lye up or be 3 or 4 Years in their return from a place which may be sailed in 6 Weeks yet I say that to Places near each other Ships may and do very often sail against the Monsoon and that with success For here are Sea and Land Breezes under the shore and in many Places good Anchoring by which means Ships may stop when they find the Current against them But Voyages of a great distance cannot be made only with Land and Sea-Winds without some other helps In the W. Indies we have these helps of Land-Winds and Sea-Breezes by which we sail from one place to another provided they are no great distance a sunder and perform our Voyages well enough but when we are to sail a great way to the Eastward against the Trade-Wind then we are forced as is said before either to pass thro' the Gulph of Florida if we are far to Leeward or else to pass between the Islands and so stretch away to the Northward till we are clear out of the Trade and so get our Longitude that way So in the South Seas also and on the Coasts of Guinea the Coast of Brazil and the Coast of Africa between the Cape of good Hope and the Red-Sea there are Sea and Land Breezes which may be made use of to sail against the Trade if the Voyages be short But when we are to sail a great way against the Trade-Wind we must not wholly depend on the Sea and Land Breezes for then we should be a long time in accomplishing such Voyages In such Cases we have recourse to other helps such as Providence has supplied these Seas with which seems to be wanting in the East Indies as for example in the South Seas on the Coast of Peru where the Southerly Winds blow constantly all the Year there Ships that are bound to the Southward stretch off to the Westward till they are out of the Coasting Trade-Wind and there meet with the true Trade at E. S. E. with which they sail as far as they please to the Southward and then steer in for their Port. So on the Coast of Mexico where the Coasting Trade is Westerly there they run off to Sea till they meet the true E. N. E. Trade and then stretch away to the Northward as far as their Port and Ships that come from the Philipines bound for the Coast of Mexico stretch away to the North as far as 40 degrees to get a Wind to bring them on the Coast. Thus also all Ships bound to the East Indies after they are past the Line in the Atlantick Ocean stretch away to the Southward beyond the Trade and then stand over to the Eastward towards the Cape so in returning home after they have crost the Line to the Northward they steer away North with the Wind at E. N. E. till they are to the Northward of the Trade-Wind and then direct their Course Easterly All Guinea Ships and West India Ships do the same in their returns And this is the Benefit of an open Sea But to return The Monsoones among the East India Islands that lye to the Southward of the Line as I said before are either at N. N. E. or S. S. W. These also keep time and shift as the Monsoones do to the North of
he or any of them are capable to be Guides to conduct a party of men thither if not where and how any Prisoner may be taken that may do it and from thence they afterwards lay their Schemes to prosecute whatever design they take in hand It was 7 or 8 days after before any resolution was taken yet consultations were held every day The French seemed very forward to go to any Town that the English could or would propose because the Governour of Petit-Guavos from whom the Privateers take Commissions had recommended a Gentleman lately come from France to be General of the Expedition and sent word by Captain Tucker with whom this Gentleman came that they should if possible make an attempt on some Town before he return'd again The English when they were in company with the French seem'd to approve of what the French said but never look'd on that General to be fit for the service in hand At length it was concluded to go to a Town the name of which I have forgot it lieth a great way in the Country but not such a tedious march as it would be from hence to Panama Our way to it lay up Carpenter's River which is about 60 leagues to the Westward of Portabell Our greatest obstruction in this design was our want of Boats Therefore it was concluded to go with all our Fleet to St. Andreas a small uninhabited Island lying near the Isle of Providence to the Westward of it in 13 Deg. 15 Min. North Lat. and from Portabell N. N. W. about 70 leagues where we should be but a little way from Carpenter's River And besides at this Island we might build Canoas it being plentifully stored with large Cedars for such a purpose and for this reason the Jamaica-men come hither frequently to build Sloops Cedar being very fit for building and it being to be had here at free-cost beside other Wood. Jamaica is well stored with Cedars of its own chiefly among the Rocky Mountains these also of St. Andreas grow in stony ground and are the largest that ever I knew or heard of the Bodies alone being ordinarily 40 or 50 foot long many 60 or 70 and upwards and of a proportionable bigness The Bermudas Isles are well stored with them so is Virginia which is generally a sandy soil I saw none in the East Indies nor in the South Sea Coast except on the Isthmus as I came over it We reckon the Pereago's and Canoa's that are made of Cedar to be the best of any they are nothing but the Tree itself made hollow Boat-wise with a flat bottom and the Canoa generally sharp at both ends the Pereago at one only with the other end flat But what is commonly said of Cedar that the Worm will not touch it is a mistake for I have seen of it very much worm-eaten All things being thus concluded on we sailed from hence directing our course toward St. Andreas We kept company the first day but at night it blew a hard gale at N. E. and some of our Ships bore away The next day others were forced to leave us and the second night we lost all our company I was now belonging to Captain Archembo for all the rest of the Fleet were over-mann'd Captain Archembo wanting men we that came out of the South Seas must either sail with him or remain among the Indians Indeed we found no cause to dislike the Captain but his French Sea-men were the saddest creatures that I was ever among for tho we had bad weather that requir'd many hands aloft yet the biggest part of them never stirr'd out of their Hammocks but to eat or ease themselves We made a shift to find the Island the fourth day where we met Captain Wright who came thither the day before and had taken a Spanish Tartan wherein were 30 men all well armed She had 4 Patereroes and some long Guns placed in a Swivel on the Gunnel They fought an hour before they yielded The news they related was that they came from Cartagena in company of 11 Armadilloes which are small Vessels of War to seek for the Fleet of Privateers lying in the Sambaloes that they parted from the Armadilloes 2 days before that they were order'd to search the Sambaloes for us and if they did not find us then they were order'd to go to Portabell and lye there till they had farther intelligence of us and he supposed these Armadilloes to be now there We that came over Land out of the South Seas being weary of living among the French desired Captain Wright to fit up his Prize the Tartan and make a Man of War of her for us which he at first seemed to decline because he was settled among the French on Hispaniola and was very well beloved both by the Governor of Petit-Guavos and all the Gentry and they would resent it ill that Captain Wright who had no occasion of Men should be so unkind to Captain Archembo as to seduce his Men from him he being so meanly mann'd that he could hardly sail his Ship with his Frenchmen We told him we would no longer remain with Captain Archembo but would go ashore there and build Canoas to transport our selves down to the Moskitoes if he would not entertain us for Privateers are not obliged to any Ship but free to go ashore where they please or to go into any other Ship that will entertain them only paying for their Provision When Captain Wright saw our resolutions he agreed with us on condition we should be under his command as one Ships Company to which we unanimously consented This Blewfields River comes out between the Rivers of Nicaragua and Veragua At its mouth is a fine sandy Bay where Barks may clean It is deep at its mouth but a shole within so that Ships may not enter yet Barks of 60 or 70 Tuns may It had this name from Captain Blewfield a famous Privateer living on Providence Island long before Jamaica was taken Which Island of Providence was settled by the English and belonged to the Earls of Warwick In this River we found a Canoa coming down the stream and though we went with our Canoas to seek for Inhabitants yet we found none but saw in 2 or 3 places signs that Indians had made on the side of the River The Canoa which we found was but meanly made for want of Tools therefore we concluded these Indians have no commerce with the Spaniards nor with other Indians that have While we lay here our Moskito men went in their Canoa and struck us some Manatee or Sea-cow Besides this Blewfields River I have seen of the Manatee in the Bay of Campethy on the Coasts of Bocca del Drago and Bocco del Toro in the River of Darien and among the South Keys or little Islands of Cuba I have heard of their being found on the North of Jamaica a few and in the Rivers of Surinam in great multitudes which is a very low
Beetles It was of a dusky colour towards black and about the hardness of mellow Cheese and of a very fragrant smell This that Mr. Hill shewed me being some of it which Mr. Barker gave him Besides those already mentioned all the places where I have heard that Ambergriese hath been found are Bermudas and the Bahama Islands in the West Indies and that part of the Coast of Africk with its adjacent Islands which reaches from Mozambique to the Red-Sea We went from this Island of Sall to St. Nicholas another of the Cape-Verd Islands lying West South West from Sall about 22 leagues We arrived there the next day after we left the other and Anchored on the S. E. side of the Island This is a pretty large Island it is one of the biggest of all the Cape-Verd and lyeth in a triangular-form The largest side which lyeth to the East is about 30 leagues long and the other two above 20 leagues each It is a mountainous barren Island and rocky all round towards the Sea yet in the heart of it there are Valleys where the Portuguese which inhabit here have Vineyards and Plantations and Wood for fewel Here are many Goats which are but poor in comparison with those in other places yet much better than those at Sall There are likewise many Asses The Governour of this Island came aboard us with 3 or 4 Gentlemen more in his Company who were all indifferently well cloathed and accoutred with Swords and Pistols but the rest that accompanied him to the Sea side which were about 20 or 30 men more were but in a ragged garb The Governour brought aboard some Wine made in the Island which tasted much like Madera Wine It was of a pale colour and lookt thick He told us the chief Town was in a Valley 14 mile from the Bay where we rode that he had there under him above one hundred families besides other Inhabitants that lived scattering in Valleys more remote They were all very swarthy the Governour was the cleaâ—est of them yet of a dark tawny complexion At this Island we scrubb'd the bottom of our Ship and here also we 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 ashore on the Bay and fill'd all our water and after 5 or 6 days stay we went from hence to Mayo another of the Cape-Verd Islands lying about 40 miles East and by South from the other arriving there the next day and anchoring on the N. W. side of the Island We sent our Boat on shore intending to have purchased some Provision as Beef or Goat with which this Island is better stock'd than the rest of the Islands But the inhabitants would not suffer our men to land for about a week before our arrival there came an English Ship the men of which came ashore pretending friendship and seized on the Governour with some others and carrying them aboard made them send ashore for Cattle to ransom their Liberties and yet after this set sail and carry'd them away and they had not heard of them since The English-man that did this as I was afterwards informed was one Captain Bond of Bristol Whether ever he brought back those men again I know not He himself and most of his men have since gone over to the Spaniards and t was he who had like to have burnt our Ship after this in the Bay of Panama as I shall have occasion to relate This Isle of Mayo is but small and invironed with sholes yet a place much frequented by shipping for its great plenty of Salt and though there is but bad landing yet many Ships lade here every year Here are plenty of Bulls Cows and Goats and at a certain season in the year as May June July and August a sort of small Sea-Tortoise come hither to lay their Eggs but these Turtle are not so sweet as those in the West Indies The Inhabitants plant Corn Yames Potatoes and some Plantations and breed a few Fowls living very poor yet much better than the Inhabitants of any other of these Islands St. Jago excepted which lieth 4 or 5 leagues to the Westward of Mayo and is the chief the most fruitful and best inhabited of all the Islands of Cape Verd yet mountainous and much barren Land in it On the East side of the Isle of St. Jago is a good Port which in peaceable times especially is seldom without Ships for this hath long been a place which Ships have been wont to touch at for Water and Refreshments as those outward bound to the East Indies English French and Dutch many of the Ships bound to the Coast of Guinea the Dutch to Surinam and their own Portuguese Fleet going for Braziel which is generally about the latter end of September but few Ships call in here in their return for Europe When any Ships are here the Country People bring down their Commodities to sell to the Seamen and Passengers viz. Bullocks Hogs Goats Fowls Eggs Plantains and Cocoa Nuts which they will give in Exchange for Shirts Drawers Handkerchiefs Hats Wastecoats Britches or in a manner for any sort of Cloath especially Linnen for Woollen is not much esteemed there They care not willingly to part with their Cattel of any sort but in exchange for Money or Linnen or some other valuable Commodity Travellers must have a care of these people for they are very thievish and if they see an opportunity will snatch any thing from you and run away with it We did not touch at this Island in this Voyage but I was there before this in the year 1670 when I saw a Fort here lying on the top of an Hill and commanding the Harbour The Governour of this Island is chief over all the rest of the Islands I have been told that there are two large Towns on this Island some small Villages and a great many Inhabitants and that they make a great deal of Wine such as is that of St. Nicholas I have not been on any other of the Cape Verd Islands nor near them but have seen most of them at a distance They seem to be mountainous and barren some of these before-mentioned being the most fruitful and most frequented by Strangers especially St. Jago and Mayo As to the rest of them Fogo and Brava are two small Islands lying to the Westward of St. Jago but of little note only Fogo is remarkable for its being a Vulcano It is all of it one large Mountain of a good heighth out of the top whereof issue Flames of Fire yet only discerned in the night and then it may be seen a great way at Sea Yet this Island is not without Inhabitants who live at the foot of the Mountain near the Sea Their subsistence is much the same as in the other Islands they having some Goats Fowls Plantains Coco-Nuts c. as I am informed Of the Plantains and Coco-Nuts I shall have occasion to speak when I come into the East Indies and shall defer the giving an account of them till then The
and discovered also another Island about the same bigness 20 leagues to the Westward of this From those Goats these were propogated and the Island hath taken its name from this its first Discoverer who when he returned to Lima desired a Patent for it designing to settle here and it was in his second Voyage hither that he set ashore 3 or 4 Goats which have since by their increase so well stocked the whole Island But he could never get a Patent for it therefore it lies still destitute of Inhabitants though doubtless capable of maintaining 4 or 500 Families by what may be produced off the Land only I speak much within compass for the Savanahs would at present feed 1000 head of Cattle besides Goats and the Land being cultivated would probably bear Corn or Wheat and good Pease Yams or Patatoes for the Land in their Valleys and sides of the Mountains is of a good black fruitful mould The Sea about it is likewise very productive of its Inhabitants Seals swarm as thick about this Island as if they had no other place in the World to live in for there is not a Bay nor Rock that one can get ashore on but is full of them Sea Lyon's are here in great Companys and Fish particularly Snappers and Rock-fish are so plentiful that 2 men in an hours time will take with Hook and Line as many as will serve 100 men The Seals are a sort of Creatures pretty well known yet it may not be amiss to describe them They are as big as Calves the head of them like a Dog therefore call'd by the Dutch the Sea-hounds Under each Shoulder grows a long thick Fin These serve them to swim with when in the Sea and are instead of Legs to them when on the Land for raising their Bodies up on end by the help of these Fins or Stumps and so having their Tail-parts drawn close under them they rebound as it were and throw their bodies forward drawing their hinder-parts after them and then again rising up and springing forward with their fore-parts alternately they lie tumbling thus up and down all the while they are moving on Land From their Shoulders to their Tails they grow tapering like Fish and have two small Fins on each side the Rump which is commonly covered with their Fins These Fins serve instead of a Tail in the Sea and on Land they sit on them when they give suck to their young Their hair is of divers colours as black grey dun sported looking very sleek and pleasant when they come first out of the Sea For these at John Fernando s have fine thick short Furr the like I have not taken notice of any where but in these Seas Here are always thousands I might say possibly millions of them either sitting on the Bays or going and coming in the Sea round the Island which is covered with them as they lye at the top of the Water playing and sunning themselves for a mile or two from the Shore When they come out of the Sea they bleat like Sheep for their young and tho they pass through hundreds of others young ones before they come to their own yet they will not suffer any of them to suck The young ones are like Puppies and lie much ashore but when beaten by any of us they as well as the old ones will make toward the Sea and swim very swift and nimble tho on shore they lye very sluggishly and will not go out of our ways unless we beat them but snap at us A blow on the Nose soon kills them Large Ships might here load themselves with Seals skins and Trane-oyl for they are extraordinary fat Seals are found as well in cold as hot Climates and in the cold places they love to get on Lumps of Ice where they will lie and sun themselves as here on the Land They are frequent in the Northern parts of Europe and America and in the Southern parts of Africa as about the Cape of Good Hope and at the Streights of Magellan and though I never saw any in the West Indies but in the Bay of Campeachy at certain Islands called the Alceranes and at others called the Desartes yet they are over all the American Coast of the South Seas from Terra del Fuego up to the Equinoctial Line but to the North of the Equinox again in these Seas I never saw any till as far as 21 North Lat. Nor did I ever see any in the East Indies In general they seem to resort where there is plenty of Fish for that is their food and Fish such as they feed on as Cods Groopers c. are most plentiful on rocky Coasts and such is mostly this Western Coast of the South America as I shall further relate The Sea Lion is a large creature about 12 or 14 foot long The biggest part of his body is as big as a Bull it is shaped like a Seal but 6 times as big The Head is like a Lion's Head it hath a broad Face with many long Hairs growing about its Lips like a Cat. It has a great goggle Eye the Teeth inches long about the bigness of a Mans Thumb In Capt. Sharp's time some of our Men made Dice with them They have no Hair on their Bodies like the Seal they are of a dun colour and are all extraordinary fat one of them being cut up and boil'd will yeild a Hogshed of Oil which is very sweet and wholesome to fry Meat withal The lean Flesh is black and of a course grain yet indifferent good food They will lye a week at a time ashore if not disturbed Where 3 or 4 or more of them come ashore together they huddle one on another like Swine and grunt like them making a hideous noise They eat Fish which I believe is their common food The Snapper is a Fish made much like a Roach but a great deal bigger It hath a large Head and Mouth and great Gills The Back is of a bright Red the Belly of a Silver-colour The Scales are as broad as a Shilling The Snapper is excellent meat They are in many places in the West-Indies and the South-Seas I have not seen them any where beside The Rock-fish is called by Sea-men a Grooper the Spaniards call it a Baccalao which is the name for Cod because it is much like it It is rounder than the Snapper of a dark brown colour and hath small Scales no bigger than a Silver-penny This Fish is good sweet meat and is found in great plenty on all the Coast of Peru and Chili There are only two Bays in the whole Island where Ships may Anchor these are both at the East end and in both of them is a Rivolet of good fresh Water Either of these Bays may be fortified with little charge to that degree that 50 men in each may be able to keep off 1000 and there is no coming into these Bays from the West end but with great
difficulty over the Mountains where if 3 men are placed they may keep down as many as come against them on any side This was partly experienced by 5 Englishmen that Captain Davis left here who defended themselves against a great body of Spaniards who landed in the Bays and came here to destroy them and though the second time one of their Consorts deserted and fled to the Spaniards yet the other 4 kept their ground and were afterward taken in from hence by Captain Strong of London We remained at John Fernando's 16 days our sick men were ashore all the time and one of Captain Eaton's Doctors for he had 4 in his Ship tending and feeding them with Goat and several Herbs whereof here is plenty growing in the Brooks and their Diseases were chiefly Scorbutick CHAP. V. The Author departs from John Fernando's Of the Pacifick Sea Of the Andes or high Mountains in Peru and Chili A Prize taken Isle of Lobos Penguins and other Birds there Three Prizes more The Islands Gallapago's The Dildo tree Burton wood Mammet trees Guanoes Land Tortoise their several kind Green Snakes Turtle-Doves Tortoise or Turtle-grass Sea Turtle their several kinds The Air and Weather at the Gallapago's Some of the Islands describ'd their Soil c. The Island Cocos describ'd Cape Blanco and the Bay of Caldera the Sevanahs there Captain Cook dies Of Nicoya and a Red Wood for Dying and other Commodities A narrow Escape of 12 Men. Lance-wood Volean Vejo a burning Mountain on the Coast of Ria Lexa A Tornado The Island and Harbor of Ria Lexa The Gulph of Amapalla and Point Casivina Isles of Mangera and Amapalla The Indian Inhabitants Hog-plumb tree Other Islands in the Gulph of Amapalla Captain Eaton and Captain Davis careen their Ships here and afterwards part THE 8th of April 1684. we sailed from the Isle of John Fernando with the Wind at S. E. We were now 2 Ships in Company Captain Cook 's whose Ship I was in and who here took the Sickness of which he dy'd a while after and Captain Eaton's Our passage lay now along the Pacifick Sea properly so called For though it be usual with our Map-makers to give that Name to this whole Ocean calling it Mare Australe Mar del Zar or Mare Pacificum yet in my opinion the Name of the Pacifick Sea ought not to be extended from South to North farther than from 30 to about 4 degrees South Latitude and from the American Shore Westward indefinitely with respect to my Observation who have been in these parts 250 Leagues or more from Land and still had the Sea very quiet from Winds For in all this Tract of Water of which I have spoken there are no dark rainy Clouds though often a thick Horizon so as to hinder an Observation of the Sun with the Quadrant and in the morning hazy weather frequently and thick Mists but scarce able to wet one Nor are there in this Sea any Winds but the Trade-wind no Tempests no Tornado's or Hurricans though North of the Equator they are met with as well in this Ocean as in the Atlantick yet the Sea it self at the new and full of the Moon runs with high large long Surges but such as never break out at Sea and so are safe enough unless that where they fell in and break upon the shore they make it bad landing In this Sea we made the best of our way toward the Line till in the lat of 24. S. where we fell in with the main Land of the South America All this course of the Land both of Chili and Peru is vastly high therefore we kept 12 or 14 leagues off from shore being unwilling to be seen by the Spaniards dwelling there The Land especially beyond this from 24 deg S. Lat. to 17 and from 14 to 10 is of a most prodigious heighth It lies generally in ridges parallel to the Shore and 3 or 4 ridges one within another each surpassing other in heighth and those that are farthest within Land are much higher than the others They always appear blue when seen at Sea sometimes they are obscured with Clouds but not so often as the high Lands in other parts of the world for here are seldom or never any Rains on these Hills any more than in the Sea near it neither are they subject to Fogs These are the highest Mountains that ever I saw far surpassing the Pike of Tenariffe or Santa Martha and I believe any Mountains in the world I have seen very high Land in the Lat. of 30 South but not so high as in the Latitudes before described In Sir John Narborough's Voyage also to Baldivia a City on this Coast mention is made of very high Land seen near Baldivia and the Spaniard with whom I have discoursed have told me that there is very high Land all the way between Coquimbo which lies in about 30 deg S. Lat. and Baldivia which is in 40 South so that by all likelihood these ridges of Mountains do run in a continued Chain from one end of Peru and Chili to the other all along this South Sea Coast called usually the Andes or Sierra Nuevada des Andes The excessive heighth of these Mountains may possibly be the reason that there are no Rivers of note that fall into these Seas Some small Rivers indeed there are but very few of them for in some places there is not one that comes out into the Sea in 150 or 200 Leagues and where they are thickest they are 30 40 or 50 Leagues asunder and too little and shallow to be navigable Besides some of these do not constantly run but are dry at certain seasons of the year as the River of Ylo runs flush with a quick Current at the latter end of January and so continues till June and then it decreaseth by degrees growing less and running slow till the latter end of September when it fails wholly and runs no more till January again This I have seen at both seasons in two former Voyages I made hither and have been informed by the Spaniards that other Rivers on this Coast are of the like nature being rather Torrents or Land-floods caused by their Rains at certain seasons far within Land than Perennial Streams We kept still along in sight of this Coast but at a good distance from it encountring with nothing of Note till in the lat of 9 deg 40 min. South on the 3d of May we descried a Sail to the Northward of us She was plying to Windward we chaced her and Captain Eaton being a head soon took her she came from Guiaquil about a month before laden with Timber and was bound to Lima. Three days before we took her she came from Santa whither she had gone for Water and where they had news of our being in these Seas by an Express from Baldivia for as we afterwards heard Captain Swan had been at Baldivia to seek a Trade there and he having met Captain
Seas is among these Gallapago Islands for here is plenty of Grass There is another sort of Green Turtle in the South Seas which are but small yet pretty sweet These lye Westward on the Coast of Mexico One thing is very strange and remarkable in these Creatures that at the breeding time they leave for 2 or 3 Months their common haunts where they feed most of the Year and resort to other places only to lay their Eggs And 't is not thought that they eat any thing during this Season So that both He 's and She 's grow very lean but the He 's to that degree that none will eat them The most remarkable places that I did ever hear of for their breeding is at an Island in the West Indies called Caimanes and the Isle Ascention in the Western Ocean and when the breeding time is past there are none remaining Doubtless they swim some hundreds of Leagues to come to those two places For it hath been often observed that at Caimanes at the breeding time there are found all those sorts of Turtle before described The South Keys of Cuba are above 40 Leagues from thence which is the nearest place that these Creatures can come from and it is most certain that there could not live so many there as come here in one Season Those that go to lay at Ascention must needs travel much farther for there is no Land nearer it than 300 Leagues And it is certain that these Creatures live always near the shore In the South Sea likewise the Gallapagos is the place where they live the biggest part of the Year yet they go from thence at their Season over to the Main to lay their Eggs which is 100 Leagues the nearest place Altho multitudes of these Turtles go from their common places of feeding and abode to those laying places yet they do not all go And at the time when the Turtlè resort to these places to lay their Eggs they are accompanied with abundance of Fish especially Sharks the places which the Turtle then leave being at that time destitute of Fish which follow the Turtle When the She 's go thus to their places to lay the Male accompany them and never leave them till their return Both Male and Female are Fat the begining of the Season but before they return the Male as I said are so lean that they are not fit to eat but the Female are good to the very last Yet not so Fat as at the beginning of the Season It is reported of these Creatures that they are 9 days engendring and in the Water the Male on the Females back It is observable that the Male while engendring do not easily forsake their Female For I have gone and taken hold of the Male when ingendring and a very bad striker may strike them then for the Male is not shie at all but the Female seeing a Boat when they rise to blow would make her escape but that the Male grasps her with his 2 fore Fins and holds her fast When they are thus coupled it is best to strike the Female first then you are sure of the Male also These Creatures are thought to live to a great Age and it is observed by the Jamaica Turtlers that they are many years before they come to their full growth The air of these Islands is temperate enough considering the Clime Here is constantly a fresh Sea breze all Day and cooling refreshing winds in the Night Therefore the heat is not so violent here as in most places near the Equator The time of the Year for the Rains is in November December and January Then there is oftentimes excessive dark Tempestuous weather mixt with much Thunder and Lightning Sometimes before and after these Months there are moderate refreshing Showers but in May June July and August the weather is alway very fair We staid at one of these Islands which lies under the Equator but one Night because our Prizes could not get into an Anchor We refresht our selves very well both with Land and Sea Turtles and the next day we failed from thence The next Island of the Gallapagos that we came to is but 2 Leagues from this 'T is Rocky and barren like this it is about 5 or 6 Leagues long and 4 broad We Anchored in the Afternoon at the North side of the Island a quarter of a Mile from the shore in 16 fathom water It is steep all round this Island and no Anchoring only at this place Here it is but ordinary riding for the ground is so steep that if an Anchor starts it never holds again and the wind is commonly off from the Land except in the Night when the Land-wind comes more from the West for there it blows right along the shore though but faintly Here is no water but in Ponds and holes of the Rocks That which we first Anchored at hath water on the North end falling down in a stream from high steep Rocks upon the Sandy Bay where it may be taken up As soon as we came to an Anchor we made a Tent ashore for Captain Cook who was sick Here we found the Sea Turtle lying ashore on the Sand this is not customary in the West Indies We turned them on their backs that they might not get away The next day more came up when we found it to be their custom to lye in the Sun so we never took care to turn them afterwards but sent ashore the Cook every morning who kill'd as many as served for the day This custom we observed all the time we lay here feeding sometimes on Land Turtle sometimes on Sea Turtle there being plenty of either sort Captain Davis came hither again a second time and then he went to other Islands on the West side of these There he found such plenty of Land Turtle that he and his Men eat nothing else for 3 Months that he staid there They were so Fat that he saved 60 Jars of Oyl out of those that he spent This Oyl served instead of Butter to eat with Dough-boys or Dumplin's in his return out of these Seas He found very convenient places to Careen and good Channels between the Islands and very good Anchoring in many places There he found also plenty of brooks of good fresh water and fire wood enough there being plenty of Trees fit for many uses Captain Harris one that we shall speak of hereafter came hither likewise and found some Islands that had plenty of Mammee-trees and pretty large Rivers The Sea about these Islands is plentifully stored with Fish such as are at John Fernando's They are both large and Fat and as plentiful here as at John Fernando's Here are particularly abundance of Sharks The North part of this second Isle we anchor'd at lyes 28 minutes North of the Equator I took the heighth of the Sun with an Astrolabe These Isles of the Gallapago's have plenty of Salt We stay'd here but 12 days in which
was so named by the Spaniards after Sir Francis Drake took the Caoafoga a Ship chiefly laden with Plate which they say he brought hither and divided it here with his Men. It is about 4 mile long and a mile and half broad and of a good heighth It is bounded with high steep Cliffs clear round only at one place on the East side The top of it is flat and even the Soil sandy and dry the Trees it produceth are but small bodied low and grow thin and there are only 3 or 4 sorts of Trees all unknown to us I observed they were much overgrown with long Moss There is good Grass especially in the beginning of the year There is no Water on this Island but at one place on the East side close by the Sea there it drills slowly down from the Rocks where it may be received into Vessels There was plenty of Goats but they are now all destroyed There is no other sort of Land Animal that I did ever see here are plenty of Boobies and Men of War Birds The anchoring place is on the East side near the middle of the Island close by the shore within two Cables lengths of the sandy Bay there is about 18 or 20 fathom good fast oazy ground and smooth Water for the S. E. point of the Island shelters from the South Winds which constantly blow here From the S. E. point there strikes out a small shole a quarter of a mile into the Sea where there is commonly a great Riplin or working of short Waves during all the Flood The Tide runs pretty strong the Flood to the South and the Ebb to the North. There is good landing on the Sandy Bay against the anchoring place from whence you may go up into the Island and at no place besides There are 2 or 3 high steep small Rocks at the S. E. point not a Cables length from the Island and another much bigger at the N. E. end it is deep Water all round but at the anchoring place and at the shole at the S. E point This Island lieth in lat 01d 10 m. South It is distant from Cape St. Lorenzo 4 or 5 leagues bearing from it W. S. W. and half a point westerly At this Island are plenty of those small Sea Turtle spoken of in my last Chapter The 21st day Captain Eaton came to an anchor by us he was very willing to have consorted with us again but Captain Davis's Men were so unreasonable that they would not allow Captain Eaton's Men an equal share with them in what they got therefore Captain Eaton staid here but one night and the next day sailed from hence steering away to the Southward We staid no longer than the day ensuing and then we sailed toward Point St. Hellena intending there to land some Men purposely to get Prisoners for intelligence Point Santa Hellena bears South from the Island Plata It lies in lat 2d 15 m. South The Point is pretty high flat and even at top overgrown with many great Thistles but no sort of Tree at a distance it appears like an Island because the Land within it is very low This Point strikes out West into the Sea making a pretty large Bay on the North side A mile within the Point on the Sandy Bay close by the Sea there is a poor small Indian Village called Sancta Hellena the Land about it is low sandy and barren there are no Trees nor Grass growing near it neither do the Indians produce any Fruit Grain or Plant but Water-Melons only which are large and very sweet There is no fresh Water at this place nor near it therefore the Inhabitants are obliged to fetch all their Water from the River Colanche which is in the bottom of the Bay about 4 leagues from it Not far from this Town on the Bay close by the Sea about 5 paces from high-water mark there is a sort of bitumenous matter boils out of a little hole in the earth It is like thin Tar the Spaniards call it Algatrane By much boiling it becomes hard like Pitch It is frequently used by the Spaniards instead of Pitch and the Indians that inhabit here save it in Jars It boils up most at high water and. then the Indians are ready to receive it These Indians are Fishermen and go out to Sea on Bark-logs Their chief subsistence is Maiz most of which they get from Ships that come hither for Algatrane There is good anchoring to leeward of the Point right against the Village but on the West side of the Point it is deep Water and no anchoring The Spaniards do report that there was once a very rich Ship driven ashore here in calm for want of Wind to work her Assoon as ever she struck she heel'd off to Sea and fill'd with Water presently and then slid off to 7 or 8 fathom Water where she lies to this day none having attempted to fish for her because she lies deep and there falls in here a great high Sea When we were abreast of this Point we sent away our Canoas in the night to take the Indian Village They landed in the morning betimes close by the Town and took some Prisoners They took likewise a small Bark which the Indians had set on fire but our Men quenched it and took the Indian that did it who being asked wherefore he set the Bark on fire said That there was an Order from the Vice-Roy lately set out commanding all Sea-men to burn their Vessels if attacked by us and betake themselves to their Boats There was another Bark in a small Cove a mile from the Village thither our men went thinking to take her but the Sea-men that were aboard set her in flames and fled In the evening our men came aboard and brought the small Bark with them the fire of which they had quenched and then we returned again towards Plata where we arriv'd the 26th day of September In the evening we sent out some men in our Bark lately taken and Canoas to an Indian Village called Manta 2 or 3 leagues to the Westward of Cape St. Lorenzo hoping there to get other Prisoners for we could not learn from those we took at Point St. Hellena the reason why the Vice-Roy should give such orders to burn the Ships They had a fresh Sea-breeze till 12 a clock at night and then it proved Calm wherefore they rowed away with their Canoas as near to the Town as they thought convenient and lay still till day Manta is a small Indian Village on the Main distant from the Island Plata 7 or 8 leagues It slands so advantageously to be seen being built on a small ascent that it makes a very fair prospect to the Sea yet but a few poor scattering Indian houses There is a very fine Church adorned with a great deal of Carved work It was formerly a habitation of Spaniards but they are all removed from hence now The Land about it is dry and
always go before the Wind being unable to ply against it and therefore are fit only for these Seas where the Wind is always in a manner the same not varying above a point or two all the way from Lima till such time as they come into the Bay of Panama and even there they meet with no great Sea but sometimes Northerly winds and then they lower their Sails and drive before it waiting a change All their care then is only to keep off from Shore for they are so made that they cannot sink at Sea These Rafts carry 60 or 70 Tuns of Goods and upwards their Cargo is chiefly Wine Oyl Flower Sugar Quito-cloath Soap Goat-skins drest c. The Float is manag'd usually by 3 or 4 Men who being unable to return with it against the Trade-wind when they come to Panama dispose of the goods and bottom together getting a passage back again for themselves in some Ship or Boat bound to the Port they came from and there they make a new Bark-log for their next Cargo The smaller sort of Bark-logs described before which lye flat on the Water and are used for Fishing or carrying Water to Ships or the like half a Tun or a Tun at a time are more governable than the other tho they have Masts and Sails too With these they go out at night by the help of the Land-wind which is seldom wanting on this Coast and return back in the day time with the Sea-wind This sort of Floats are used in many places both in the East and West Indies On the Coast of Coromandel in the East Indies they call them Catamarans These are but one Log or two sometimes of a sort of light Wood and are made without Sail or Rud der and so small that they carry but one Man whose legs and breech are always in the Water and he manages his Log with a Paddle appearing at a distance like a Man sitting on a Fish's back The Country about Payta is mountainous and barren like all the rest of the Kingdom of Peru. There is no Towns of consequence nearer it than Piura which is a large Town in the Country 40 miles distant It lieth by report of our Spanish Prisoners in a Valley which is watered with a small River that disembogues it self into the Bay of Chirapce in about 7d of North latitude This Bay is nearer to Piura than Payta yet all Goods imported by Sea for Piura are landed at Payta for the Bay of Chirapee is full of dangerous sholes and therefore not frequented by shipping The Road of Payta is one of the best on the Coast of Peru. It is sheltered from the South-west by a point of Land which makes a large Bay and smooth Water for Ships to ride in There is room enough for a good Fleet of Ships and good anchoring in any depth from 6 fathom water to 20 fathom Right against the Town the nearer the Town the shallower the water and the smoother the riding it is clean Sand all over the Bay Most Ships passing either to the North or the South touch at this place for water for tho here is none at the Town yet those Indian Fishermen of Colan will and do supply all Ships very reasonably and good water is much prized on all this Coast through the scarcity of it November the 3d at 6 a clock in the morning our Men landed about 4 miles to the South of the Town and took some Prisoners that were sent thither to watch for fear of us and these Prisoners said that the Governor of Piura came with 100 armed Men to Payta the night before purposely to oppose our landing there if we should attempt it Our Men marched directly to the Fort on the Hill and took it without the loss of one Man Hereupon the Governor of Piura with all his Men and the Inhabitants of the Town ran away as fast as they could Then our Men entered the Town and found it emptied both of Money and Goods there was not so much as a Meal of Victuals left for them The Prisoners told us a Ship had been here a little before and burnt a great Ship in the Road but did not land their Men and that here they put ashore all their Prisoners and Pilots We knew this must be Captain Eaton's Ship which had done this and by these circumstances we supposed he was gone to the East Indies it being always designed by him The Prisoners told us also that since Captain Eaton was here a small Bark had been off the Harbor and taken a pair of Bark-logs a fishing and made the Fishermen bring aboard 20 or 30 Jars of fresh water This we supposed was our Bark that was sent to the Lobos to seek Captain Eaton In the evening we came in with our Ships and anchored before the Town in 10 fathom water near a mile from the shore Here we staid till the sixth day in hopes to get a Ransom for the Town Our Captains demanded 300 Packs of Flower 3000 pound of Sugar 25 Jars of Wine and 1000 Jars of Water to be brought off to us but we got nothing of it Therefore Captain Swan ordered the Town to be fir'd which was presently done Then all our Men came aboard and Captain Swan ordered the Bark which Captain Harris commanded to be burnt because she did not sail well At night when the Land Wind came off we sailed from hence towards Lobos The 10th day in the evening we saw a Sail bearing N. W. by N. as far as we could well discern her on our Deck We immediately chased separating our selves the better to meet her in the night but we mist her Therefore the next morning we again trimb'd sharp and made the best of our way to the Lobos de la Mar. The 14th day we had sight of the Island Lobos de Terra it bore East from us we stood in towards it and betwixt 7 and 8 a clock in the night came to an anchor at the N. E. end of the Island in 14 fathom water This Island at Sea is of an indifferent height and appears like Lobos de la Mar. About a quarter of a mile from the North end there is a great hollow Rock and a good Channel between where there is 7 fathom water The 15th day we went ashore and found abundance of Penguins and Boobies and Seal in great quanties We sent aboard of all these to be drest for we had not tasted any flesh in a great while before therefore some of us did eat very heartily Captain Swan to encourage his Men to eat this course flesh would commend it for extraordinary good food comparing the Seal to roasting Pig the Boobies to Hens and the Penguins to Ducks this he did to train them to live contentedly on course Meat not knowing but we might be forced to make use of such food before we departed out of these Seas for it is generally seen among Privateers that nothing imboldens them
this River Their chiefest employment when they are not at Sea is fishing These men are oblig'd by the Spaniards to keep good watch for Ships that Anchor at Point Arena which as I said before is 7 leagues from the Town Puna The place where they keep this watch is at a Point of Land on the Island Puna that starts out into the Sea from whence they can see all Ships that anchor at Point Arena The Indians come thither in the morning and return at night on Horse-back From this watching point to Point Arena it is 4 leagues all drowned Mangrove-land and in the midway between these two Points is another small Point where these Indians are obrig d to keep another Watch when they fear an Enemy The Centinel goes thither in a Canoa in the morning and returns at night for there is no coming thither by Land through that Mangrove marshy ground The middle of the Island Puna is Savannah or pasture There are some ridges of good Woodland which is of a light yellow or sandy mould producing large tall Trees most unknown even to Travellers But there are plenty of Palmeto Trees which because I am acquainted with I shall describe The Palmeto Tree is about the bigness of an ordinary Ash It is about 30 foot high the body streight without any limb or branch or leaf except at the head only where it spreads forth into many small branches not half so big as a mans arm some no bigger than ones finger These branches are about 3 or 4 foot long clear from any knot At the end of the branch there groweth one broad leaf about the bigness of a large Fan. This when it first shoots forth grows in folds like a Fan when it is closed and still as it grows bigger so it opens till it becomes like a Fan spread abroad It is strengthned towards the stalk with many small ribs springing from thence and growing into the leaf which as they grow near the end of the leaf grow thinner and smaller The Leaves that make the brush part of the Flag-brooms which are brought into England grow just in this manner and are indeed a small kind of Palmeto for there are of them of several dimensions In Bermudas and elsewhere they make Hats Baskets Brooms Fans to blow the fire instead of Bellows with many other House-Implements of Palmeto-Leaves On the ridges where these Trees grow the Indians have here and there Plantations of Maiz Yams and Potatoes There are in the Town of Puna about 20 Houses and a small Church The Houses stand all on Posts 10 or 12 foot high with Ladders on the outside to go up into them I did never see the like buildings any where but among the Malayans in the East Indies They are thatched with Palmeto-leaves and their Chambers well boarded in which last they exceed the Malayans The best place for Ships to lye at an anchor is against the middle of the Town There is 5 fathom water within a Cables length of the shore and good soft deep Oaze where ships may careen or hale ashore it flows 15 or 16 foot water up and down From Puna to Guiaquil is reckoned 7 leagues It is one league before you come to the River of Guiaquil s mouth where it is above two mile wide from thence upwards the River lies pretty streight without any considerable turnings Both sides of the River are low swampy Land overgrown with Red Mangroves so that there is no landing Four mile before you come to the Town of Guiaquil there is a low Island standing in the River This Island divides the River into two parts making two very fair Channels for Ships to pass up and down The S. W. Channel is the widest the other is as deep but narrower and narrower yet by reason of many Trees and Bushes which spread over the River both from the Main and from the Island and there are also several great stumps of Trees standing upright in the Water on either side The Island is above a mile long From the upper part of the Island to the Town of Guiaquil is almost a league and near as much from one side of the River to the other In that spacious place Ships of the greatest burthen may ride afloat but the best place for Ships is nearest to that part of the Land where the Town stands and this place is seldom without Ships Guiaquil stands facing the Island close by the River partly on the side and partly at the foot of a gentle Hill declining towards the River by which the lower part of it is often overflown There are two Forts one standing in the low ground the other on the hill This Town makes a very fine prospect it being beautified with several Churches and other good Buildings Here lives a Governor who as I have been informed hath his Patent from the King of Spain Guiaquil may be reckoned one of the chiefest Sea-Ports in the South Seas The Commodities which are exported from hence are Cacao Hides Tallow Sarsaparilla and other Drugs and Woollen Cloath commonly called Cloath of Quito The Cacao grows on both sides of the River above the Town It is a small Nut like the Campeachy Nut I think the smallest of the two they produce as much Cacao here as serves all the Kingdom of Peru and much of it is sent to Acapulco and from thence to the Phillipine Islands Sarsaparilla grows in the Water by the sides of the River as I have been informed The Quito-cloath comes from a rich Town in the Country within land called Quito There is a great deal made both Serges and Broad-cloath This Cloath is not very fine but is worn by the common sort of people throughout the whole Kingdom of Peru. This and all other commodities which come from Quito are shipt off at Guiaquil for other parts and all imported goods for the City of Quito pass by Guiaquil by which it may appear that Guiaquil is a place of no mean trade Quito as I have been informed is a very populous City seated in the heart of the Country It is inhabited partly by Spaniards but the major part of its Inhabitants are Indians under the Spanish Government It is environ'd with Mountains of a vast heighth from whose bowels many great Rivers have their rise These Mountains abound in Gold which by violent rains is wash'd with the Sand into the adjacent Brooks where the Indians resort in Troops washing away the Sand and putting up the Gold-dust in their Calabashes or Gourd Shells But for the manner of gatnering the Gold I refer you to Mr. Waffer's Book Only I shall remark here that Quito is the place in all the Kingdom of Peru that abounds most with this rich Metal as I have been often informed The Country is subject to great Rains and very thick Fogs especially the Valleys For that reason it is very unwholsome and sickly The chiefest Distempers are Fevers violent Head-ach Pains in the Bowels and
We were 2 Ships and 3 Barks in Company viz. Captain Davis Captain Swan a Fireship and 2 small Barks as Tenders one on Captain Davis his Ship the other on Captain Swan's We weighed before day and got out all but Captain Swan's Tender which never budged for the men were all asleep when we went out and the Tide of flood coming on before they waked we were forced to stay for them till the next day The 8th day in the morning we descried a sail to the West of us the Wind was at South and we chased her and before noon took her She was a Ship of about 90 Tun laden with Flower she came from Truxillio and was bound to Panama This Ship came very opportunely to us for Flower began to grow scarce and Captain Davis his men grudg'd at what was given to Captain Swan who as I said before had none but what he had from Captain Davis We jogged on after this with a gentle gale towards Gorgonia an Island lying about 25 leagues from the Island Gallo The 9th day we anchored at Gorgonia on the West side of the Island in 38 fathom clean ground not 2 Cables length from the shore Gorgonia is an uninhabited Island in lat about 3 degrees North It is a pretty high Island and very remarkable by reason of 2 saddles or risings and fallings on the top It is about 2 leagues long and a league broad and it is 4 leagues from the Main At the West-end is another small Island The Land against the Anchoring place is low there is a small sandy Bay and good landing The Soil or Mold of it is black and deep in the low ground but on the side of the high Land it is a kind of a red clay This Island is very well cloathed with large Trees of several sorts that are flourishing and green all the year It 's very well watered with small Brooks that issue from the high Land Here are a great many little black Monkeys some Indian Conies and a few Snakes which are all the Land Animals that I know there It is reported of this Island that it rains on every day in the year more or less but that I can disprove however it is a very wet Coast and it rains abundantly here all the year long There are but few fair days for there is little difference in the seasons of the year between the wet and dry only in that season which should be the dry time the rains are less frequent and more moderate than in the wet season for then it pours as out of a Sieve It is deep water and no anchoring any where about this Island only at that West side The Tyde riseth and falleth 7 or 8 foot up and down Here are a great many Perewincles and Muscles to be had at low water Then the Monkeys come down by the Sea side and catch them digging them out of their Shells with their Claws Here are Pearl-Oysters in great plenty They grow to the loose Rocks in 4 5 or 6 fathom water by beards or little small roots as a Muscle These Oysters are commonly flatter and thinner than other Oysters otherwise much alike in shape The fish is not sweet nor very wholsome it is as slimy as a Shell-Snail they taste very copperish if eaten raw and are best boyl'd The Indians who gather them for the Spaniards hang the meat of them on strings like Jews-ears and dry them before they eat them The Pearl is found at the head of the Oyster lying between the meat and the shell Some will have 20 or 30 small Seed-Pearl some none at all and some will have 1 or 2 pretty large ones The inside of the shell is more glorious than the Pearl itfelf I did never see any in the South Seas but here It is reported there are some at the South end of Callifornia In the West Indies the Rancho Rejs or Rancheria spoken of in Chap. 3. is the place where they are found most plentifully 'T is said there are some at the Island Margarita near St. Augustin a Town in the Gulf of Florida c. In the East Indies The Island Ainam near the South end of China is said to have plenty of these Oysters more productive of large round Pearl than those in other other places They are found also in other parts of the East Indies on the Persian Coast. At this Island Gorgona we rummaged our Prize and found a few Boxes of Marmalade and 3 or 4 Jars of Brandy which were equally shared between Captain Davis Captain Swan and their Men. Here we fill'd all our Water and Captain Swan furnished himself with Flower afterward we turned ashore a great many Prisoners but kept the chiefest to put them ashore in a better place The 13th day we sailed from hence toward the Kings Islands We were now 6 Sail 2 Men of War 2 Tenders a Fireship and the Prize We had but little Wind but what we had was the common Trade at South The Land we sailed by on the Main is very low towards the Sea side but in the Country there are very high Mountains The 16th day we passed by Cape Corrientes This Cape is in lat 5 d. 10 m. it is high bluff Land with 3 or 4 small Hillocks on the top It appears at a distance like an Island Here we found a strong current running to the North but whether it be always so I know not The day after we passed by the Cape we saw a small white Island which we chased supposing it had been a Sail till coming near we found our error The 21st day we saw Point Garrachina This Point is in lat 7 d. 20 m. North it is pretty high Land rocky and destitute of Trees yet within Land it is Woody It is fenced with Rocks against the Sea Within the Point by the Sea at low Water you may find store of Oysters and Muscles The Kings Islands or Pearl Keys are about 12 leagues distant from this Point Between Point Garqchina and them there is a small low flat barren Island called Gallera at which Captain Harris was sharing with his Men the Gold he took in his pillaging Sancta Maria which I spake of a little before when on a sudden 5 Spanish Barks fitted out on purpose at Panama came upon him but he fought them so stoutly with one small Bark he had and some few Canoas boarding their Admiral particularly that they were all glad to leave him By this Island we anchored and sent our Boats to the Kings Islands for a a good careening place The Kings Islands are a great many low woody Islands lying N. W. by N. and S. E. by S. They are about 7 leagues from the Main and 14 leagues in length and from Panama about 12 leagues Why they are called the Kings Islands I know not they are sometimes and mostly in Maps called the Pearl Islands I cannot imagin wherefore they are called so for I did
from all parts But Panama as it is not overcharg d with men so unreasonably as the other tho very full so it enjoys a good air lying open to the Sea wind which riseth commonly about 10 or 11 a clock in the morning and continues till 8 or 9 a clock at night then the Land wind comes and blows till 8 or 9 in the morning There are no Woods nor Marshes near Panama but a brave dry Champain land not subject to fogs nor mists The wet season begins in the latter end of May and continues till November At that time the Sea breezes are at S. S. W. and the Land winds at N. At the dry season the winds are most betwixt the E. N. E. and the North Yet off in the Bay they are commonly at South but of this I shall be more particular in my Chapter of Winds in the Appendix The rains are not so excessive about Panama it self as on either side of the Bay yet in the months of June July and August they are severe enough Gentlemen that come from Peru to Panama especially in these months cut their hair close to preserve them from Fevers for the place is sickly to them because they come out of a Country which never hath any Rains or Fogs but enjoys a constant serenity but I am apt to believe this City is healthy enough to any other people Thus much for Panama The 20th day we went and anchored within a league of the Islands Perico which are only 3 little barren rocky Islands in expectation of the President of Panama s Answer to the Letter I said we sent him by Don Diego treating about exchange of Prisoners this being the day on which he had given us his Parole to return with an Answer The 21st day we took another Baâ—…k laden with Hogs Fowl Salt Beef and Molossoes she came from Lavelia and was going to Panama In the afternoon we sent another Letter ashore by a young Mostiso a mixt brood of Indians and Europeans directed to the President and 3 or 4 Copies of it to be dispersed abroad among the common People This Letter which was full of Threats together with the young Man's managing the business wrought so powerfully among the common People that the City was in an uproar The President immediately sent a Gentleman aboard who demanded the Flower Prize that we took off of Gallo and all the Prisoners for the Ransom of our two Men but our Captains told him they would exchange Man for Man The Gentleman said he had not orders for that but if we would stay till the next day he would bring the Governours answer The next day he brought aboard our two Men and had about 40 Prisoners in exchange The 24th day we run over to the Island Tabago Tabago is in the Bay and about 6 leagues South of Panama It is about 3 mile long and 2 broad a high mountainous Island On the North side it declines with a gentle descent to the Sea The Land by the Sea is of a black Mold and deep but toward the top of the Mountain it is strong and dry The North side of this Island makes a very pleasant shew it seems to be a Garden of Fruit inclosed with many high Trees the chiefest Fruits are Plantains and Bonana's They thrive very well from the foot to the middle of it but those near the top are but small as wanting moisture Close by the Sea there are many Coco Nut Trees which make a very pleasant sight Within the Coco Nut Trees there grow many Mammet Trees The Mammet is a large tall and streight-bodied Tree clean without Knots or Limbs for 60 or 70 foot or more The Head spreads abroad into many small Limbs which grow pretty thick and close together The Bark is of a dark grey colour thick and rough full of large chops The Fruit is bigger than Quince it is round and covered with a thick Rind of a grey colour When the Fruit is ripe the Rind is yellow and tough and it will then peel off like Leather but before it is ripe it is brittle the Juice is then white and clammy but when ripe not so The ripe Fruit under the Rind is yellow as a Carret and in the middle are two large rough Stones flat and each of them much bigger than an Almond The Fruit smells very well and the taste is answerable to the smell The S. W. end of the Island hath never been cleared but is full of Fire-wood and Trees of divers sorts There is a very fine small Brook of fresh Water that springs out of the side of the Mountain and gliding through the Grove of Fruit-trees falls into the Sea on the North side There was a small Town standing by the Sea with a Church at one end but now the biggest part of it is destroyed by the Privateers There is good anchoring right against the Town about a mile from the shore where you may have 16 or 18 fathom Water soft oazy ground There is a small Island close by the N. W. end of this called Tabogilla which is a small Channel to pass between There is another woody Island about a mile on the N. E. side of Tabago and a good Channel between them this Island hath no Name that ever I heard While we lay at Tabago we had like to have had a scurvy trick plaid us by a pretended Merchant from Panama who came as by stealth to traffick with us privately a thing common enough with the Spanish Merchants both in the North and South Seas notwithstanding the severe Prohibitions of the Governours who yet sometimes connive at it and will even trade with the Privateers themselves Our Merchant was by agreement to bring out his Bark laden with Goods in the night and we to go and anchor at the South of Perico Out he came with a Fireship instead of a Bark and approached very near haling us with the Watch word we had agreed upon We suspecting the worst call d to them to come to an anchor and upon their not doing so fired at them when immediately their Men going out into the Canoas set fire to their Ship which blew up and burnt close by us so that we were forced to cut our Cables in all haste and scamper away as well as we could The Spaniard was not altogether so politick in appointing to meet us at Perico for there we had Sea-room whereas had he come thus upon us at Tabago the Land-wind bearing hard upon us as it did we must either have been burnt by the Fireship or upon loosing our Cables have been driven ashore But I suppose they chose Perico rather for the Scene of their Enterprize partly because they might there best sculk among the Islands and partly because if their Exploit fail d they could thence escape best from our Canoas to Panama but 2 leagues off During this Exploit Captain Swan whose Ship was less than ours and so not so much
his Men. They were coming out of the River in the night and took 2 Barks bound for Panama the one was laden with Flower the other with Wine Brandy Sugar and Oyl The Prisoners that he took declared that that the Lima Fleet was ready to sail We went and anchored among the Kings Islands and the next day Captain Swan returned out of the River of Santa Maria being informed by the Indians that Captain Townley was come over to the Kings Islands At this place Captain Townley put out a great deal of his Goods to make room for his Men. He distributed his Wine and Brandy soâ—…e to every Ship that it might be drunk out because he wanted the Jars to carry Water in The Spaniards in these Seas carry all their Wine Brandy and Oyl in Jars that hold 7 or 8 Gallons When they lade at Pisco a place about 40 leagues to the Southward of Lima and famous for Wine they bring nothing else but Jars of Wine and they sâ—…ow one tier on the top of another so artificially that we could hardly do the like without breaking them yet they often carry in this manner 1500 or 2000 or more in a Ship and seldom break one The 10th day we took a small Bark that came from Guiaquil she had nothing in her but Ballast The 12th day there came an Indian Canoa out of the River of Santa Maria and told us that there were 300 English and French men more coming over Land from the North Seas The 15th day we met a Bark with 5 or 6 English men in her that belonged to Captain Knight who had been in the South Seas 5 or 6 months and was now on the Mexican Coast. There he had spied this Bark but not being able to come up with her in his Ship he detach'd these 5 or 6 Men in a Canoa who took her but when they had done could not recover their own Ship again losing company with her in the night and therefore they came into the Bay of Panama intending to go over land back into the North Seas but that they luckily met with us for the Isthmus of Darien was now become a common Road for Privateers to pass between the North and South Seas at their pleasure This Bark of Captain Knight's had in her 40 or 50 Jars of Brandy she was now commanded by Mr. Henry More but Captain Swan intending to promote Captain Harris caused Mr. More to be turned out alledging that it was very likely these Men were run away from their Commander Mr. More willingly resigned her and went aboard of Captain Swan and became one of his Men. It was now the latter end of the dry season here and the Water at the Kings or Pearl Islands of which there was plenty when we first came hither was now dried away Therefore we were forced to go to Point Garachina thinking to water our Ships there Captain Harris being now Commander of the new Bark was sent into the River of Santa Maria to see for those Men that the Indians told us of whilst the rest of the Ships sailed towards Point Garachina where we arriv'd the 21st day and anchored 2 mile from the Point and found a strong Tide running out of the River Sambo The next day we run within the Point and anchored in 4 fathom at low water The Tide riseth here 8 or 9 foot the Flood sets N. N. E. the Ebb S. S. W. The Indians that inhabit in the River Sambo came to us in Canoas and brought Plantains and Bonanoes They could not speak nor understand Spanish therefore I believe they have no Commerce with the Spaniards We found no fresh Water here neither so we went from hence to Port Pinas which is 7 leagues S. by W. from hence Porto Pinas lieth in lat 7 d. North. It is so called because there are many Pine-trees growing there The Land is pretty high rising gently as it runs into the Country This Country near the Sea is all covered with pretty high Woods the Land that bounds the Harbor is low in the middle but high and rocky at both sides At the mouth of the Harbor there are 2 small high Islands or rather barren Rocks The Spaniards in their Pilot Books commend this for a good Harbour but it lieth all open to the S. W. Winds which frequentlly blow here in the wet season besides the Harbor within the Islands is a place of but small extent and hath a very narrow going in what depth of Water there is in the Harbor I know not The 25th day we arrived at this Harbor of Pines but did not go in with our Ships finding it but an ordinary place to lye at We sent in our Boats to search it and they found a stream of good Water running into the Sea but there were such great swelling surges came into the Harbor that we could not conveniently fill our Water there The 26th day we returned to Point Garachina again In our way we took a small Vessel laden with Cacao she came from Guiaquil The 29th day we arrived at Point Garachina There we found Captain Harris who had been in the River of Santa Maria but he did not meet the Men that he went for Yet he was informed again by the Indians that they were making Canoas in one of the branches of the River of Santa Maria. Here we shared our Cacao lately taken Because we could not fill our Water here we designed to go to Tabago again where we were sure to be supplied Accordingly on the 30th day we set sail being now 9 Ships in company and had a small Wind at S. S. E. The first day of April being in the Channel between the Kings Islands and the Main we had much Thunder Lightning and some Rain This evening we anchored at the Island Pacheque and immediately sent 4 Canoas before us to the Island Tabago to take some Prisoners for information and we followed the next day The 3d day in the evening we anchored by Perica and the next morning went to Tabago where we found our 4 Canoas They arrived there in the night and took a Canoa that came as is usual from Panama for Plantains There were in the Canoa 4 Indians and a Mulata The Mulata because he said he was in the Fireship that came to burn us in the night was immediately hang'd These Prisoners confirmed that one Captain Bond an English man did command her Here we fill'd our Water and cut Fire-wood and from hence we sent 4Canoas over to the Main with one of the Indians lately taken to guide them to a Sugar-work for now we had Cacao we wanted Sugar to make Chocolate But the chiefest of their business was to get Coppers for each Ship having now so many Men our Pots would not boil Victuals fast enough though we kept them boiling all the day About 2 or 3 days after they returned aboard with 3 Coppers While we lay here Captain Davis his Bark went
and West Indies for thatching Houses they are very lasting and serviceable much surpassing the Palmeto For this Thatch if well laid on will endure 5 or 6 years and this is called by the Spaniards the Palmeto Royal. The English at Jamaica give it the same Name Whether this be the same which they in Guinea get the Palm-wine from I know not but I know that it is like this The Land in the Country is full of small peeked barren Hills making as many little Valleys which appear flourishing and green At the West end of this Bay is the Hill of Petaplan in lat 17d 30 m. N. This is a round point stretching out into the Sea at a distance it seems to be an Island A little to the West of this Hill are several round Rocks which we left without us steering in between them and the round point where we had 11 fathom water We came to an anchor on the N. W. side of the Hill and went ashore about 170 Men of us and marched into the Country 12 or 14 miles There we came to a poor Indian Village that did not afford us a Meal of Victuals The people all fled only a Mulatto woman and 3 or 4 small Children who were taken and brought aboard She told us that a Carrier one who drives a Caravan of Mules was going to Acapulco laden with Flower and other Goods but stopt in the Road for fear of us a little to the West of this Village for he had heard of our being on this Coast and she thought he still remained there and therefore it was we kept the Woman to be our Guide to carry us to that place At this place where we now lay our Moskito-men struck some small Turtle and many small Jew-fish The Jew-fish is a very good Fish and I judge so called by the English because it hath Scales and Fins therefore a clean Fish according to the Levitical Law and the Jews at Jamaica buy them and eat them very freely It is a very large Fish shaped much like a Cod but a great deal bigger one will weigh 3 or 4 or 5 hundred weight It hath 3 large head with great Fins and Scales as big as an Half-Crown answerable to the bigness of his body It is very sweet Meat and commonly fat This Fish lives among Rocks there are plenty of them in the West Indies about Jamaica and the Coast of Caraccos but chiefly in these Seas especially more Westward We went from hence with our Ships the 18th day and steered West about 2 leagues farther to a place called Chequetan A mile and half from the shore there is a small Key and within it is a very good Harbour where Ships may careen there is also a small River of fresh water and wood enough The 14th day in the morning we went with 95 Men in 6 Canoas to seek for the Carrier taking the Mulatto woman for our Guide but Captain Townly would not go with us Before day we landed at a place called Estapa a league to the West of Chequetan The woman was well acquainted here having been often at this place for Muscles as she told us for here are great plenty of them they seem in all respects like our English Muscles She carry'd us through the pathless Wood by the side of a River for about a league then we came into a Savannah full of Bulls and Cows and here the Carrier before mentioned was lying at the Estantion-house with his Mules not having dared to advance all this while as not knowing where we lay so his own fear made him his Mules and all his Goods become a Prey to us He had 40 packs of Flower some Chocolate a great many small Cheeses and abundance of Earthen Ware The eatables we brought away but the Earthen Vessels we had no occasion for and therefore left them The Mules were about 60 we brought our Prize with them to the shore and so turn'd them away Here we also kill'd some Cows and brought with us to our Canoas In the afternoon our Ships came to an anchor half a mile from the place where we landed and then we went aboard Captain Townly seeing our good success went ashore with his Men to kill some Cows for here were no Inhabitants near to oppose us The Land is very woody of a good fertile soil watered with many small Rivers yet it hath but few Inhabitants near the Sea Captain Townly killed 18 Beefs and after he came aboard our Men contrary to Captain Swan's inclination gave Captain Townly part of the Flower which we took ashore Afterwards we gave the Woman some Cloaths for her and her Children and put her and two of them ashore but one of them a very pretty Boy about 7 or 8 years old Captain Swan kept The Woman cried and begg'd hard to have him but Captain Swan would not but promis'd to make much of him and was as good as his word He proved afterwards a very fine Boy for Wit Courage and Dexterity I have often wonder'd at his Expressions and Actions The 21st day in the evening we sailed hence with the Land-wind The Land-winds on this part of the Coast are at N. and the Sea-winds at W. S. W. We had fair weather and coasted along to the Westward The Land is high and full of ragged Hills and West from these ragged Hills the Land makes many pleasant and fruitful Valleys among the Mountains The 25th day we were abrest of a very remarkable Hill which towring above the rest of its fellows is divided in the top and makes two small parts It is in lat 18 d. 8 m. North. The Spaniards make mention of a Town called Thelupan near this Hill which we would have visited if we could have found the way to it The 26th day Captain Swan and Captain Townly with 200 Men of whom I was one went in our Canoas to seek for the City of Colima a rich place by report but how far within Land I could never learn for as I said before here is no Trade by Sea and therefore we could never get Guides to inform us or conduct us to any Town but one or two on this Coast and there is never a Town that lieth open to the Sea but Acapulco and therefore our search was commonly fruitless as now for we rowed above 20 leagues along shore and found it a very bad Coast to land we saw no House nor sign of Inhabitants although we past by a fine Valley called the Valley of Maguella only at two places the one at our first setting out on this Expedttion and the other at the end of it we saw a Horseman set as we supposed as a Centinel to watch us At both places we landed with difficulty and at each place we followed the track of the Horse on the sandy Bay but where they entered the Woods we lost the track and although we diligently searcht for it yet we could find it no more so we
28th day we anchored in the bottom of the Bay the Valley of Balderas right against the River where we watered before but this River was brackish now in the dry season and therefore we went 2 or 3 leagues nearer Cape Corrientes and anchored by a small round Island not half a mile from the shore The Island is about 4 leagues to the Northward of the Cape and the Brook where we filled our water is just within the Island upon the Main Here our Strikers struck 9 or 10 Jew-fish some we did eat and the rest we salted and the 29th day we fill'd 32 Tuns of very good water Having thus provided our selves we had nothing more to do but to put in execution our intended expedition to the East Indies in hopes of some better success there than we had met with on this little frequented Coast. We came on it full of expectations for besides the richness of the Country and the probability of finding some Sea Ports worth visiting we perswaded our selves that there must needs be Shipping and Trade here and that Acapulco and La Vera Cruz were to the Kingdom of Mexico what Panama and Portobel are to that of Peru viz. Marts for carrying on a constant Commerce between the South and North Seas as indeed they are But whereas we expected that this Commerce should be managed by Sea we found our selves mistaken that of Mexico being almost wholly a Land-trade and managed more by Mules than by Ships So that instead of profit we met with little on this Coast besides fatigues hardships and losses and so were the more easily induced to try what better fortune we might have in the East Indies But to do right to Captain Swan he had no intention to be as a Privateer in the East Indies but as he hath often assured me with his own mouth he resolved to take the first opportunity of returning to England So that he feigned a compliance with some of his men who were bent upon going to cruize at Manila that he might have leisure to take some favourable opportunity of quitting the Privateer Trade CHAP. X. Their Departure from Cape Corrientes for the Ladrone Islands and the East Indies Their Course thither and Accidents by the way with a Table of each days Run c. Of the different accounts of the breadth of these Seas Guam one of the Ladrone Islands The Coco-nut Tree Fruit c. The Toddi or Arack that distils from it with other uses that are made of it Coire Cables The Lime or Crab Limon The Bread fruit The Native Indians of Guam Their Proe's a remarkable sort of Boats and of those used in the East Indies The State of Guam and the Provisions with which they were furnisht there I Have given an account in the last Chapter of the resolutions we took of going over to the East Indies But having more calmly considered on the length of our Voyage from hence to Guam one of the Ladrone Islands which is the first place that we could touch at and there also being not certain to find Provisions most of our men were almost daunted at the thoughts of it for we had not 60 days Provision at a little more than half a pint of Maiz a day for each man and no other Provision except 3 Meals of salted Jew-fish and we had a great many Rats aboard which we could not hinder from eating part of our Maiz. Beside the great distance between Cape Corrientes and Guam which is variously set down The Spaniards who have the greatest reason to know best make it to be between 2300 and 2400 leagues our Books also reckon it differently between 90 and 100 degrees which all comes short indeed of 2000 leagues but even that was a Voyage enough to frighten us considering our scanty Provisions Captain Swan to encourage his men to go with him perswaded them that the English Books did give the best account of the distance his reasons were many although but weak He urged among the rest that Sir Thomas Candish and Sir Francis Drake did run it in less than 50 days and that he did not question but that our Ships were better sailers than those which were built in that age and that he did not doubt to get there in little more than 40 days This being the best time in the year for breezes which undoubtedly is the reason that the Spaniards set out from Acapulco about this time and that although they are 60 days in their Voyage it is because they are great Ships deep laden and very heavy sailers besides they wanting nothing are in no great haste in their way but sail with a great deal of their usual caution And when they come near the Island Guam they lye by in the night for a week before they make Land In prudence we also should have contriv'd to lye by in the night when we came near Land for otherwise we might have run ashore or have outsailed the Islands and lost sight of them before morning But our bold adventurers seldom proceed with such wariness when in any streights But of all Captain Swan's arguments that which prevailed most with them was his promising them as I have said to cruize off the Manila's So he and his men being now agreed and they incouraged with the hope of gain which works its way thro all difficulties we set out from Cape Corrientes March the 31st 1686. We were 2 Ships in Company Captain Swan s Ship and a Bark commanded under Captain Swan by Captain Teat and we were 150 men 100 aboard of the Ship and 50 aboard the Bark beside slaves as I said We had a small Land-wind at E. N. E. which carried us 3 or 4 leagues then the Sea-wind came at W. N. W. a fresh gale so we steered away S. W. By 6 a clock in the evening we were about 9 leagues S. W. from the Cape then we met a Land-wind which blew fresh all night and the next morning about 10 a clock we had the Sea breez at N. N. E. so that at noon we were 30 leagues from the Cape It blew a fresh gale of Wind which carried us off into the true Trade-wind of the difference of which Trade-winds I shall speak in the Chapter of Winds in the Appendix for although the constant Sea breez near the shore is at W. N. W. yet the true Trade off at Sea when you are clear of the Land-winds is at E. N. E. At first we had it at N. N. E. so it came about Northerly and then to the East as we run off At 250 leagues distance from the shore we had it at E. N. E. and there it stood till we came within 40 leagues of Guam When we had eaten up our 3 meals of salted Jew-fish in so many days time we had nothing but our small allowance of Maiz. After the first day of March we made great runs every day having very fair clear weather and a fresh
Trade-wind which we made use of with all our Sails and we made many good Observations of the Sun At our first setting out we steer'd into the lat of 13 degrees which is near the lat of Guam then we steered West keeping in that lat By that time we had sailed 20 days our men seeing we made such great runs and the Wind like to continue repined because they were kept at such short allowance Captain Swan endeavoured to perswade them to have a little patience yet nothing but an augmentation of their daily allowance would appease them Captain Swan though with much reluctance gave way to a small enlargement of our commons for now we had not above 10 spoonfuls of boil'd Maiz a man once a day whereas before we had 8 I do believe that this short allowance did me a great deal of good though others were weakened by it for I found that my strength increased and my Dropsy wore off Yet I drank 3 times every 24 hours but many of our men did not drink in 9 or 10 days time and some not in 12 days one of our men did not drink in 17 days time and said he was not adry when he did drink yet he made water every day more or less One of our men in the midst of these hardships was found guilty of theft and condemned for the same to have 3 blows from each man in the Ship with a 2 inch and a half rope on his bare back Captain Swan began first and struck with a good will whose example was followed by all of us It was very strange that in all this Voyage we did not see one Fish not so much as a Flying-fish nor any sort of Fowl but at one time when we were by my account 4975 miles West from Cape Corrientes then we saw a great number of Boobies which we supposed came from some Rocks not far from us which were mentioned in some of our Sea-carts but we did not see them After we had run the 1900 leagues by our reckoning which made the English account to Guam the men began to murmur against Captain Swan for perswading them to come this Voyage but he gave them fair words and told them that the Spanish account might probably be the truest and seeing the gale was likely to continue a short time longer would end our troubles A Map of the EAST INDIES As we drew nigh the Island we met with some small Rain and the Clouds settling in the West were an apparent token that we were not far from Land for in these Climates between or near the Tropicks where the Trade-wind blows constantly the Clouds which fly swift over head yet seem near the Limb of the Horizon to hang without much motion or alteration where the Land is near I have often taken notice of it especially if it is high Land for you shall then have the Clouds hang about it without any visible motion The 20th day of May our Bark being about 3 leagues a head of our Ship sailed over a rocky shole on which there was but 4 fathom water and abundance of Fish swimming about the Rocks They imagin d by this that the Land was not far off so they clapt on a Wind with the Barks head to the North and being past the Shole lay by for us When we came up with them Captain Teat came aboard us and related what he had seen We were then in lat 12 d. 55 m. steering West The Island Guam is laid down in Lat. 13 d. N. by the Spaniards who are Masters of it keeping it as a baiting place as they go to the Philippine Islands Therefore we clapt on a Wind and stood to North-ward being somewhat troubled and doubtful whither we were right because there is no Shole laid down in the Spanish drafts about the Island Guam At 4 a clock to our great joy we saw the Island Guam at about 8 leagues distance It was well for Captain Swan that we got sight of it before our Provision was spent of which we had but enough for 3 days more for as I was afterwards informed the men had contrived first to kill Captain Swan and eat him when the victuals was gone and after him all of us who were accessary in promoting the undertaking this Voyage This made Captain Swan say to me after our arrival at Guam Ah! Dampier you would have made them but a poor Meal for I was as lean as the Captain was lusty and fleshy The Wind was at E. N. E. and the Land bore at N. N. E. therefore we stood to the Northward till we brought the Island to bear East and then we turned to get in to an anchor The account I have given hitherto of our course from Cape Corrientes in the Kingdom of Mexico for I have mentioned another Cape of that name in Peru South of the Bay of Panama to Guam one of the Ladrone Islands hath been in the gross But for the satisfaction of those who may think it serviceable to the fixing the Longitudes of these parts or to any other use in Geography or Navigation I have here subjoined a particular Table of every days run which was as follows A Table of every days Run to Guam Day Course Dist. S. W. Lat. Winds March 31 S W 5 d W 27 17 20 20 11 W N W Ap 1 S W 5 W 106 68 81 R. 19 3 N W N N W 2 S W 1 W 142 98 101 R. 17 25 N b W 3 W by S 102 19 100 Ob. 17 6 N 4 W 12 S 140 29 136 Ob. 16 37 N N N E 5 W 20 S 160 54 150 Ob. 15 43 N 6 W 10 S 108 18 106 Ob. 15 25 N E 7 W 15 S 89 23 86 Ob. 15 2 N E E N E 8 W 2 S 64 5 63 R. 14 57 E N E 9 W 4 S 94 6 93 Ob. 14 51 E N E 10 W 5 S 138 12 137 Ob. 14 39 E N E 11 W 5 S 124 10 123 Ob. 14 29 E N E 12 W 5 S 170 14 169 R. 14 15 E N E 13 W 5 S 170 14 169 R. 14 1 E N E 14 W 5 S 180 15 177 R. 13 46 E N E 15 W 6 S 174 18 172 R. 13 28 E N E cloudy 16 W 6 S 182 19 180 R. 13 9 E N E misty 17 W 6 S 216 22 214 R. 12 47 E N E Rain The Summ of the Westings hitherto is 2283 which make Deg. of Longitude 39d 5m From hence my Course is most West sometimes Southerly sometimes Northerly Day Course Dist. N or S W. Lat. Winds 18 W 192 0 192 R. 12 47 E by N 19 W 180 0 180 R. 12 47 E cloudy 20 W 177 0 170 R. 12 47 E N E 21 W 171 0 171 R. 12 47 E N E 22 W 18 0 180 R. 12 47 E by N 23 R. W. Ob. W 4 N 170 11 N 168 R. 12 47 ob 12 58 E by N 24
Canby particularly who hath sailed as a Mate in a great many Voyages from Cape Lopez on the Coast of Guinea to Barbadoes and is much esteem d as a very sensible man hath often told me that he constantly found the distance to be between 60 and 62 degree whereas 't is laid down in 68 69 70 and 72 degrees in the common draughts As to the supposition it self which our Seamen make in the allowing but 60 miles to a degree I am not ignorant how much this hath been canvased of late years especially and that the prevailing opinion hath been that about 70 or upwards should be allowed But till I can see some better grounds for the exactness of these tryals that have been made on Land by Mr. Norwood and others considering the inequality of the Earths surface as well as the obliquity of the way in their allowing for which I am somewhat doubtful of their measures upon the whole matter I cannot but adhere to the general Sea-Calculation confirmed as to the main by daily experience till some more certain estimate shall be made than those hitherto attempted For we find our selves when we sail North or South to be brought to our intended place in a time agreeable enough with what we expect upon the usual supposition making all reasonable allowance for the little unavoidable deviations East or West and there seems no reason why the same estimate should not serve us in crosing the Meridians which we find so true in sailing under them As to this course of ours to Guam particularly we should rather increase than shorten our estimate of the length of it considering that the Easterly Wind and Current being so strong and bearing therefore our Log after us as is usual in such cases should we therefore in casting up the run of the Log make allowance for so much space as the Log it self drove after us which is commonly 3 or 4 miles in 100 in so brisk a gale as this was we must have reckoned more than 125 degrees but in this Voyage we made no such allowance though it be usual to do it so that how much soever this computation of mine exceeds the common Draughts yet is it of the shortest according to our experiment and calculation But to proceed with our Voyage The Island Guam or Guahon as the Native Indians pronounce it is one of the Ladrone Islands belongs to the Spaniards who have a small Fort with 6 Guns in it with a Governour and 20 or 30 Soldiers They keep it for the relief and refreshment of their Philippine Ships that touch here in their way from Acapulco to Manila but the Winds will not so easily let them take this way back again The Spaniards of late have named Guam the Island Maria it is about 12 leagues long and 4 broad lying N. and S. It is pretty high Champion Land The 21st day of May 1686 at 11 a clock in the evening we anchored near the middle of the Island Guam on the West side a mile from the shore At a distance it appears flat and even but coming near it you will find it stands shelving and the East side which is much the highest is fenced with steep Rocks that oppose the violence of the Sea which continually rage against it being driven with the constant Trade-wind and on that side there is no anchoring The West side is pretty low and full of small sandy Bays divided with as many rocky points The Soil of the Island is reddish dry and indifferent fruitful The Fruits are chiesly Rice Pine-apples Water-melons Musk-melons Oranges and Limes Coco-nuts and a sort of Fruit called by us Bread-fruit The Coco-nut Trees grow by the Sea on the Western side in great groves 3 or 4 miles in length and a mile or 2 broad This Tree is in shape like the Cabbage-tree and at a distance they are not to be known each from other only the Coco-nut Tree is fuller of Branches but the Cabbage-tree generally is much higher though the Coco-nut Trees in some places are very high The Nut or Fruit grows at the head of the Tree among the Branches and in clusters 10 or 12 in a cluster The Branch to which they grow is about the bigness of a mans arm and as long running small towards the end It is of a yellow colour full of knots and very tough The Nut is generally bigger than a mans head The outer Rind is near 2 inches thick before you come to the Shell the Shell it self is black thick and very hard The Kernel in some Nuts is near an inch thick sticking to the inside of the Shell clear round leaving a hollow in the middle of it which contains about a pint more or less according to the bigness of the Nut for some are much bigger than others This Cavity is full of sweet delicate wholsom and refreshing Water While the Nut is growing all the inside is full of this Water without any Kernel at all but as the Nut grows towards its maturity the Kernel begins to gather and settle round on the inside of the Shell and is soft like Cream and as the Nut ripens it increaseth in substance and becomes hard The ripe Kernel is sweet enough but very hard to digest therefore seldom eaten except by strangers who know not the effects of it but while it is young and soft like pap some men will eat it scraping it out with a spoon after they have drunk the water that was within it I like the Water best when the Nut is almost ripe for it is then sweetest and briskest When these Nuts are ripe and gathered the outside Rind becomes of a brown rusty colour so that one would think that they were dead and dry yet they will sprout out like Onions after they have been hanging in the Sun 3 or 4 months or thrown about in a House or Ship and if planted afterward in the Earth they will grow up to a Tree Before they thus sprout out there is a small spungy round knob grows in the inside which we call an Apple This at first is no bigger than the top of ones finger but increaseth daily sucking up the Water till it is grown so big as to fill up the Cavity of the Coco-nut and then it begins to sprout forth By this time the Nut that was hard begins to grow oily and soft thereby giving passage to the sprout that springs from the Apple which Nature hath so contrived that it points to the hole in the Shell of which there are 3 till it grows ripe just where it 's fastened by its Stalk to the Tree but one of these holes remains open even when it is ripe through which it creeps and spreads forth its Branches You may let these teeming Nuts sprout out a foot and half or 2 foot high before you plant them for they will grow a great while like an Onion out of their own substance Beside the Liquor or Water in the
largest Apple-trees It hath a spreading head full of branches and dark leaves The Fruit grows on the boughs like Apples it is as big as a Penny Loaf when VVheat is at 5 Shillings the Bushel It is of a round shape and hath a thick tough â—…ind VVhen the Fruit is ripe it is yellow and soft and the taste is sweet and pleasant The Natives of this Island use it for Bread they gather it when full grown while it is green and hard then they bake it in an Oven which scorcheth the rind and makes it black but they scrape off the outside black crust and there remains a tender thin crust and the inside is soft tender and white like the crumb of a Penny Loaf There is neither seed nor stone in the inside but all is of a pure substance like Bread it must be eaten new for if it is kept above 24 hours it becomes dry and eats harsh and choaky but 't is very pleasant before it is too stale This Fruit lasts in season 8 months in the year during which time the Natives eat no other sort of food of Bread kind I did never see of this Fruit any where but here The Natives told us that there is plenty of this Fruit growing on the rest of the Ladrone Islands and I did never hear of any of it any where else They have here some Rice also but the Island being of a dry soil and therefore not very proper for it they do not sow very much Fish is scarce about this Island yet on the Shole that our Bark came over there was great plenty and the Natives commonly go thither to fish The natives of this Island are strong bodied large limb'd and well shap'd They are Copper-coloured like other Indians their hair is black and long their Eyes meanly proportioned they have pretty high Noses their Lips are pretty full and their Teeth indifferent white They are long visaged and stern of countenance yet we found them to be affable and courteous They are many of them troubled with a kind of a Leprosie This distemper is very common at Mindanao therefore I shall speak more of it in my next Chapter They of Guam are otherwise very healthy especially in the dry season but in the wet season which comes in in June and holds till October the air is more thick and unwholsome which occasions Fevers but the rains are not violent nor lasting For the Island lyes so far Westerly from the Philippine Islands or any other Land that the Westerly winds do seldom blow so far and when they do they do not last long but the Easterly Winds do consiantly blow here which are dry and healthy and this Island is found to be very healthful as we were informed while we lay by it The natives are very ingenious beyond any people in making Boats or Proes as they are called in the East Indies and therein they take great delight These are built sharp at both ends the bottom is of one piece made like the bottom of a little Canoa very neatly dug and left of a good substance This bottom part is instead of a Keel It is about 26 or 28 foot long the under part of this Keel is made round but inclining to a wedge and smooth and the upper part is almost flat having a very gentle hollow and is about a foot broad From hence both sides of the Boat are carried up to about 5 foot high with narrow plank not above 4 or 5 inches broad and each end of the Boat turns up round very prettily But what is very singular one side of the Boat is made perpendicular like a Wall while the other side is rounding made as other Vessels are with a pretty full belly Just in the middle it is about 4 or 5 foot broad aloft or more according to the length of the Boat The Mast stands exactly in the middle with a long Yard that peeksup and down like a Mizen-yard One end of it reacheth down to the end or head of the Boat where it is placed in a notch that is made there purposely to receive it and keep it fast The other end hangs over the stern To this yard the sail is fastened At the foot of the sail there is another small yard to keep the sail out square and to roll up the sail on when it blows hard for it serves instead of a reef to take up the sail to what degree they please according to the strength of the Wind. Along the belly-side of the Boat parallel with it at about 6 or 7 foot distance lies another small Boat or Canoa being a Log of very light Wood almost as long as the great Boat but not so wide being not above a foot and an half wide at the upper part and very sharp like a wedge at each end And there are two Bamboas of about 8 or 10 foot long and as big as ones Leg placed over the great Boats side one near each end of it and reaching about 6 or 7 foot from the side of the Boat by the help of which the little Boat is made firm and contiguous to the other These are generally called by the Dutch and by the English from them Outlagers The use of them is to keep the great Boat upright from over-setting because the Wind here being in a manner constantly East or if it were at West it would be the same thing and the Range of these Islands where their business lies to and fro being mostly North and South they turn the flat side of the Boat against the Wind upon which they sail and the belly-side consequently with its little Boat is upon the Lee and the Vessel having a Head at each end so as to sail with either of them foremost indifferently they need not tack or go about as all our Vessels do but each end of the Boat serves either for head or stern as they please When they ply to windward and are minded to go about he that steers bears away a little from the Wind by which means the stern comes to the Wind which is now become the head only by shifting the end of the yard This Boat is steered with a broad Paddle instead of a Rudder I have been the more particular in describing these Boats because I do believe they sail the best of any Boats in the world I did here for my own satisfaction try the swiftness of one of them sailing by our Log we had 12 knots on our reel and she run it all out before the half minute glass was half out which if it had been no more is after the rate of 12 mile an hour but I do believe she would have run 24 mile an hour It was very pleasant to see the little Boat running along so swift by the others side The Native Indians are not less dexterous in managing than in building these Boats By report they will go from hence to another of the Ladrone
for the Europeans coming Eastward by the Cape of Good Hope in a course contrary to the Sun and us where-ever we met they were a full day before us in their Accounts So among the Indian Mahometans here their Friday the day of their Sultans going to their Mosques was Thursday with us though it were Friday also with those who came Eastward from Europe Yet at the Ladrone Islands we found the Spaniards of Guam keeping the same computation with our selves the reason of which I take to be that they settled that Colony by a course Westward from Spain the Spaniards going first to America and thence to the Ladrones and Philippines But how the reckoning was at Manila and the rest of the Spanish Colonies in the Philippine Islands I know not whether they keep it as they brought it or corrected it by the Accounts of the Natives and of the Portuguese Dutch and English coming the contrary way from Europe One great reason why Seamen ought to keep the difference of time as exact as they can is that they may be the more exact in their Lo ngitude For our Tables of the Suns declination being calculated for the Meridians of the places in which they were made differ about 12 minutes from those parts of the World that lie on their opposite Meridians in the months of March and September and in proportion to the Suns declination at other times of the year also And should they run farther as we did the difference would still increase upon them and be an occasion of great errours Yet even able Seamen in these Voyages are hardly made sensible of this tho so necessary to be observed for want of duly attending to the reason of it as it happened among those of our crew who after we had past 180 degrees began to decrease the difference of declination whereas they ought still to have increased it for it all the way increased upon us We had the Wind at N. N. E. fair clear Weather and a brisk gale We coasted to the West-ward on the South side of the Island Mindanao keeping within 4 or 5 leagues of the shore The Land from hence trends away W. by S. It is of a good heighth by the Sea and very Woody and in the Country we say high Hills The next day we were abrest off Chambongo a Town in this Island and 30 leagues from the River of Mindanao Here is said to be a good Harbour and a great settlement with plenty of Beef and Buffaloe It is reported that the Spaniards were formerly fortified here also There are 2 shoals lie off this place 2 or 3 leagues from the shore From hence the Land is more low and even yet there are some Hills in the Country About 6 leagues before we came to the West end of the Island Mindanao we fell in with a great many small low Islands or Keys and about 2 or 3 leagues to the Southward of these Keys there is a long Island stretching N. E. and S. W. about 12 leagues This Island is low by the Sea on the North side and has a ridge of Hills in the middle running from one end to the other Between this Island and the small Keys there is a good large Channel Among the Keys also there is good depth of Water and a violent Tide but on what point of the compass it flows I know not nor how much it riseth and falls The 17th day we anchored on the East side of all these Keys in 8 fathom water clean Sand. Here are plenty of green Turtle whose flesh is as sweet as any in the West Indies but they are very shy A little to the Westward of these Keys on the Island Mindanan we saw abundance of Coco-nut Trees Therefore we sent our Canoa ashore thinking to find Inhabitants but found none nor sign of any but great tracks of Hogs and great Cattle and close by the Sea there were the ruins of an old Fort. The Walls thereof were of a good heighth built with Stone and Lime and by the Wokrmanship seem'd to be Spanish From this place the Land trends W. N. W. and is of an indifferent heighth by the Sea It run on this point of the Compass 4 or 5 leagues and then the Land trends away N. N. W. 5 or 6 leagues farther making with many bluff points We weigh'd again the 14th day and went thro between the Keys but met such uncertain Tydes that we were forced to anchor again The 22d day we got about the Westermost point of all Mindanao and stood to the Northward plying under the shore and having the Wind at N. N. E. a fresh gale As we sailed along further we found the Land to trend N. N. E. On this part of the Island the Land is high by the Sea with full bluff points and very Woody There are some small sandy Bays which afford streams of fresh Water Here we met with two Proe's belonging to the 〈◊〉 one of the Mindanaian Nations before mentioned They came from Manila laden with Silks and Calicoes We kept on this Western part of the Island steering Northerly till we came abrest of some other of the Philippine Islands that lay to the Northward of us then steered away towards them but still keeping on the West side of them and we had the Winds at N. N. E. The 3d of February we anchored in a good bay on the West side of an Island in lat 9 d. 55 m. where we had 13 fathom Water good soft oaze This Island hath no name that we could find in any book but lieth on the West side of Island Sebo It is about 8 or 10 leagues long Mountainous and Woody At this place Captain Read who was the same Captain Swan had so much railed against in his Journal and was now made Captain in his room as Captain Teat was made Master and Mr. Henry More Quartermaster ordered the Carpenters to cut down our Quarter Deck to make the Ship snug and the fitter for sailing When that was done we heeled her scrubbed her bottom and tallowed it Then we fill'd all our Water for here is a delicate small run of Water The Land was pretty low in this Bay the Mould black and fat and the Trees of several kinds very thick and tall In some places we found plenty of Canes such as we use in England for Walking-canes These were short jointed not above two foot and a half or two foot ten inches the longest and most of them not above two foot They run along on the ground like a Vine or taking hold of the Trees they climb up to their very tops They are 15 or 20 fathom long and much of a bigness from the root till within 5 or 6 fathom of the end They are of a pale green colour cloathed over with a coat of a short thick hairy substance of a dun colour but it comes off by only drawing the Cane thro your hand We did cut many of them
and they proved very tough heavy Canes We saw no Houses nor sign of Inhabitants but while we lay here there was a Canoa with 6 men came into this Bay but whether they were bound or from whence they came I know not They were Indians and we could not understand them In the middle of this Bay about a mile from the shore there is small low woody Island not above a mile in circumference our Ship rode about a mile from it This Island was the habitation of an incredible number of great Batts with bodies as big as Ducks or larger Fowl and with vast Wings For I saw at Mindanao one of this sort and I judge that the Wings stretcht out in length could not be less asunder than 7 or 8 foot from tip to tip for it was much more than any of us could fathom with our Arms extended to the utmost The Wings are for substance like those of other Batts of a dun or mouse colour The Skin or Leather of them hath Ribs running along it and draws up in 3 or 4 folds and at the joints of those Ribs and the extremities of the Wings there are sharp crooked Claws by which they may hang on any thing In the evening as soon as the Sun was set these Creatures would begin to take their flight from this Island in swarms like Bees directing their flight over to the main Island and whether afterwards I know not Thus we should see them rising up from the Island till night hindred our sight and in the morning as soon as it was light we should see them returning again like a Cloud to the small Island till Sun rising This course they kept constantly while we lay here affording us every morning and evening an hours diversion in gazing at them and talking about them but our curiosity did not prevail with us to go ashore to them our selves and Canoas being all the day time taken up in business about our Ship At this Isle also we found plenty of Turtle and Manatee but no Fish We stay'd here till the 10th of February 1687 and then having compleated our business we sailed hence with the Wind at North. But going out we struck on a Rock where we lay two hours It was very smooth Water and the Tide of flood or else we should there have lost our Ship We struck off a great piece of our Rudder which was all the damage that we received but we more narrowly mist losing our Ship this time than in any other in the whole Voyage This is a very dangerous Shoal because it does not break unless probably it may appear in foul weather It lies about two mile to the Westward without the small Batt Island Here we found the Tide of flood setting to the Southward and the Ebb to the Northward After we were past this Shoal we coasted along by the rest of the Philippine Islands keeping on the West side of them Some of them appeared to be very Mountainous dry Land We saw many fires in the night as we passed by Panay a great Island settled by Spaniards and by the fires up and down it seems to be well settled by them for this is a Spanish custom whereby they give notice of any danger or the like from Sea and 't is probable they had seen our Ship the day before This is an unfrequented Coast and 't is rare to have any Ship seen there We touched not at Panay nor any where else tho we saw a great many small Islands to the Westward of us and some Shoals but none of them laid down in our draughts The 18th day of Feb. we anchored at the N. W. end of the Island Mindora in 10 fathom Water about 3 quarters of a mile from the shore Mindora is a large Island the middle of it lying in lat 13 about 40 leagues long stretching N. W. and S. E. It is high and Mountainous and not very woody At this place where we anchored the Land was neither very high nor low There was a small Brook of Water and the Land by the Sea was very woody and the Trees high and tall but a league or two farther in the Woods are very thin and small Here we saw great tracks of Hogs and Beef and we saw some of each and hunted them but they were wild and we could kill none While we were here there was a Canoa with 4 Indians came from Manila They were very shie of us a while but at last hearing us speak Spanish they came to us and told us that they were going to a Frier that liv'd at an Indian Village towards the S. E. end of the Island They told us also that the Harbour of Manila is seldom or never without 20 or 30 Sail of Vessels most Chinese some Portugueze and some few the Spaniards have of their own They said that when they had done their business with the Frier they would return to Manila and hoped to be back again at this place in 4 days time We told them that we came for a Trade with the Spaniards at Manila and should be glad if they would carry a Letter to some Merchant there which they promised to do But this was only a pretence of ours to get out of them what intelligence we could as to their Shipping Strength and the like under colour of seeking a Trade for our business was to pillage Now if we had really designed to have traded here this was as fair an opportunity as Men could have desired for these men could have brought us to the Frier that they were going to and a small Present to him would have engaged him to do any kindness for us in the way of Trade for the Spanish Governors do not allow of it and we must Trade by stealth The 21st day we went from hence with the wind at E. N. E. a small gale The 23d day in the morning we were fair by the S. E. end of the Island Luconia the place that had been so long desired by us We presently saw a Sail coming from the Northward and making after her we took her in 2 hours time She was a Spanish Bark that came from a place called Pangasanam a small Town on the N. end of Luconia as they told us probably the same with Pongassinay which lies on a Bay at the N. W. side of the Island She was bound to Manila but had no Goods aboard and therefore we turned her away The 23d we took another Spanish Vessel that came from the same place as the other She was laden with Rice and Cotton-cloath and bound for Manila also These Goods were purposely for the Acapulco Ship the Rice was for the Men to live on while they lay there and in their return and the Cotton-cloath was to make Sails The Master of this Prize was Boatswain of the Acapulco Ship which escaped us at Guam and was now at Manila It was this Man that gave us the relation of what
for a place to careen in and the 16th day we entered the Harbour and immediately provided to careen Some Men were set to fell great Trees to saw into Plank others went to unrigging the Ship some made a House to put our Goods in and for the Sailmaker to work in The Country People resorted to us and brought us of the fruits of the Island with Hogs and sometimes Turtle for which they received Rice in exchange which we had a Ship load of taken at Manila We bought of them also a good quantity of their pitchy Liquor which we boyled and used about our Ships bottom We mixed it first with Lime which we made here and it made an excellent coat and stuck on very well We staid in this Harbour from the 16th day of March tiil the 16th day of April in which time we made a new Suit of Sails of the Cloath that was taken in the Prize We cut a spare Main-top-mast and sawed Plank to sheath the Ships bottom for she was not sheathed all over at Mindanao and that old Plank that was left on then we now ript off and clapt on new While we lay here 2 of our men dyed who were poysoned at Mindanao they told us of it when they found themselves poyson'd and had lingred ever since They were open d by our Doctor according to their own request before they dyed and their Livers were black light and dry like pieces of Cork Our business being finished here we left the Spanish Prize taken at Manila and most of the Rice taking out enough for our selves and on the 17th day we went from hence to the place where we first Anchored on the North side of the great Island purposely to water for there was a great stream when we first came to the Island and we thought it was so now But we found it dryed up only it stood in holes 2 or 3 Hogsheads or a Tun in a hole Therefore we did immediately cut Bamboos and made Spouts through which we conveyed the Water down to the Sea-side by taking it up in Bowls and pouring it into these Spouts or Troughs We conveyed some of it thus near half a mile While we were filling our Water Captain Read engaged an old man one of the Inhabitants of this Island the same who I said could speak the Malayan Language to be his Pilot to the Bay of Siam for he had often been telling us that he was well acquainted there and that he knew some Islands there where there were Fishermen lived who he thought could supply us with Salt-fish to eat at Sea for we had nothing but Rice to eat The Easterly Monsoon was not yet done therefore it was concluded to spend some time there and then take the advantage of the beginning of the Western Monsoon to return to Manila again The 21st day of April 1687 we sailed from Pulo Condore directing our course W. by S. for the Bay of Siam We had fair weather and a fine moderate gale of Wind at E. N. E. The 23d day we arrived at Pulo Uby or the Island Uby This Island is about 40 leagues to the Westward of Pulo Condore it lies just at the entrance of the Bay of Siam at the S. W. point of Land that makes the Bay namely the point of Cambodia This Island is about 7 or 8 leagues round and it is higher Land than any of Pulo Condore Isles Against the South East part of it there is a small Key about a Cables length from the main Island This Pulo Uby is very woody and it has good Water on the North side where you may anchor but the best anchoring is on the East side against a small Bay then you will have the little Island to the Southward of you At Pulo Uby we found two small Barks laden with Rice They belonged to Cambodia from whence they came not above two or three days before and they touched here to fill Water Rice is the general food of all these Countries therefore it is transported by Sea from one Country to another as Corn is in these parts of the World For in some Countries they produce more than enough for themseves and send what they can spare to those places where there is but little The 24th day we went into the Bay of Slam This is a large deep Bay of which and of this Kingdom I shall at present speak but little because I design a more particular account of all this Coast to wit of Tunquin Cochinchina Siam Champa Cambodia and Malacca making all the most Easterly part of the Continent of Asia lying South of China but to do it in the course of this Voyage would too much swell this Volume and I shall chuse therefore to give a separate relation of what I know or have learnt of them together with the Neighbouring parts of Sumatra Java c. where I have spent some time We run down into the Bay of Siam till we came to the Islands that our Pulo Condore Pilot told us of which lye about the middle of the Bay but as good a Pilot as he was he run us aground yet we had no damage Captain Read went ashore at these Islands where he found a small Town of Fishermen but they had no Fish to sell and so we returned empty We had yet fair weather and very little wind so that being often becalmed we were till the 13th day of May before we got to Pulo Uby again There we found two small Vessels at an anchor on the East side They were laden with Rice and Laquer which is used in Japaning of Cabinets One of these come from Champa bound to the Town of Malacca which belongs to the Dutch who took it from the Portuguese and this shews that they have a Trade with Champa This was a very pretty neat Vessel her bottom very clean and curiously coated she had about 40 men all armed with Cortans or broad Swords Lances and some Guns that went with a swivel upon their Gunnals They were of the Idolaters Natives of Champa and some of the briskest most sociable without fearfulness or shyness and the most neat and dexterous about their Shipping of any such I have met with in all my Travels The other Vessel came from the River of Cambodia and was bound towards the Streights of Malacca Both of them stopt here for the Westerly winds now began to blow which were against them being somewhat belated We anchored also on the East side intending to fill Water While we lay here we had very violent Winds at S. W. and a strong current setting right to Windward The fiercer the Wind blew the more strong the current set against it This storm lasted till the 20th day and then it began to abate The 21st day of May we went back from hence towards Pulo Condore In our way we overtook a great Jonk that came from Palimbam a Town on the Island Sumatra She was full laden with Pepper
in them as we were informed by all the Spaniards that ever we converst with in these parts They told us also that in these wrecks most of the men were drowned and that the Chinese did never go thither to take up any of the Treasure that was lost there for fear of being lost themselves But the danger of the place did not daunt us for we were resolved to try our fortunes there if the Winds would permit and we did beat for it 5 or 6 days but at last were forced to leave that design also for want of Winds for the S. E. Winds continuing forced us on the Coast of China It was the 25th day of June when we made the Land and running in towards the shore we came to an Anchor the same day on the N. E. end of St. John's Island This Island is in Lat. about 2 d. 30 min. North lying on the S. Coast of the Province of Quantung or Canton in China It is of an indifferent heighth and pretty plain and the Soil fertile enough It is partly woody partly Savannahs or Pasturage for Cattle and there is some moist arable Land for Rice The skirts or outer part of the Island especially that part of it which borders on the main Sea is woody The middle part of it is good thick grassy Pasture with some groves of Trees and that which is cultivated Land is low wet Land yielding plentiful Crops of Rice the only grain that I did see here The tame Cattle which this Island affords are China Hogs Goats Buffaloes and some Buslocks The Hogs of this Island are all black they have but small Heads very short thick Necks great Bellies commonly touching the ground and short Legs They eat but little food yet they are most of them very fat probably because they sleep much The tame Fowls are Ducks and Cocks and Hens I saw no wild Fowl but a few small Birds The Natives of this Island are Chinese They are subject to the Crown of China and consequently at this time to the Tartars The Chinese in general are tall strait-bodied raw boned men They are long Visaged and their Foreheads are high but they have little Eyes Their Noses are pretty large with a rising in the middle Their Mouths are of a mean size pretty thin Lips They are of an ashy complexion their Hair is black and their Beards thin and long for they pluck the hair out by the roots suffering only some few very long straggling Hairs to grow about their Chin in which they take great pride ofren combing them and sometimes tying them up in a knot and they have such Hairs too growing down from each side of their upper Lip like Whiskers The ancient Chinese were very proud of the Hair of their Heads letting it grow very long and stroking it back with their Hands curiously and then winding the plats all together round a Bodkin thrust through it at the hinder part of the Head and both Men and Women did thus But when the Tartars conquer'd them they broke them of this custom they were fond of by main force insomuch that they resented this imposition worse than their subjection and rebelled upon it but being still worried were forc'd to acquiesce and to this day they follow the fashion of their Masters the Tartars and shave all their Heads only reserving one Lock which some tye up others let it hang down to a great or small length as they please The Chinese in other Countries still keep their old custom but if any of the Chinese is found wearing long Hair in China he forfeits his Head and many of them have abandoned their Country to preserve their liberty of wearing their Hair as I have been told by themselves The Chinese have no Hats Caps or Turbans but when they walk abroad they carry a small Umbrello in their hands wherewith they fence their heads from the Sun or the Rain by holding it over their heads If they walk but a little way they carry only a large Fan made of Paper or Silk of the same fashion as those our Ladies have and many of them are brought over hither one of these every man carries in his hand if he do but cross the street skreening his head with it if he hath not an Umbrello with him The common apparrel of the men is a loose Frock and Breeches They seldom wear Stockings but they have Shoes or a sort of Slippers rather The mens Shoes are made diversly The women have very small Feet and consequently but little Shoes for from their Infancy their Feet are kept swathed up with bands as hard as they can possibly endure them and from the time they can go till they have done growing they bind them up every night This they do purposely to hinder them from from growing esteeming little Feet to be a great Beauty But by this unreasonable custom they do in a manner lose the use of their Feet and instead of going they only stumble about their Houses and presently squat down on their Breeches again being as it were confined to sitting all days of their lives They seldom stir abroad and one would be apt to think that as some have conjectured their keeping up their fondness for this fashion were a stratagem of the mens to keep them from gadding and gossipping about and confine them at home They are kept constantly to their work being fine Needle-Women and making many curious Embroideries and they make their own Shoes but if any Stranger be desirous to bring away any for Novelty's sake he must be a great Favourite to get a pair of Shoes of them tho he give twice their value The poorer sort of Women trudge about streets and to the Market without Shoes or Stockings and these cannot afford to have little feet being to get their living with them The Chinese both Men and Women are very ingenious as may appear by the many curious things that are brought from thence especially the Porcelaine or China Earthen Ware The Spaniards of Manila that we took on the Coast of Luconia told me that this Commodity is made of Conch-shells the inside of which looks like Mother of Pearl But the Portuguese lately mentioned who had lived in China and spoke that and the neighbouring Languages very well said that it was made of a fine sort of Clay that was dug in the Province of Canton I have often made enquiry about it but cou'd never be well satisfied in it but while I was on the Coast of Canton I forgot to inquire about it They make very fine Lacquer Ware also and good Silks and they are curious at painting and Carving China affords Drugs in great abundance especially China Root but this is not peculiar to that Country alone for there is much of this Root growing in Jamaica particularly at 16 mile walk and in the Bay of Honduras it is very plentiful There is a great store of Sugar made in this Country and
are a great many inhabited Islands lying near the Island Formosa between it and China in or near the lat of 23 deg N. lat almost as high as the Tropick of Cancer These Piscadore Islands are moderately high and appear much like our Dorsetshire and Wiltshire Downs in England They produce thick short Grass and a few Trees They are pretty well watered and they feed abundance of Goats and some great Cattle There are abundance of Mounts and old Fortifications on them but of no use now whatever they have been Between the 2 Eastermost Islands there is a very good Harbour which is never without Jonks riding in it and on the West side of the Easternmost Island there is a large Town and Fort commanding the Harbour The Houses are but low yet well built and the Town makes a fine prospect This is a Garrison of the Tartars wherein are also 3 or 400 Soldiers who live here 3 years and then they are removed to some other place On the Island on the West side of the Harbour close by the Sea there is a small Town of Chinese and most of the other Islands have some Chinese living on them more or less Having as I said before concluded to go to these Islands we steered away for them having the Wind at W. S. W. a small gale The 20th day of July we had first sight of them and steered in among them finding no place to anchor in till we came into the Harbour before-mentioned We blundered in knowing little of our way and we admired to see so many Jonks going and coming and some at an anchor and so great a Town as the Neighbouring Eastermost Town the Tartarian Garrison for we did not expect nor desire to have seen any people being in care to lye conceal'd in these Seas however seeing we were here we boldly run into the Harbour and presently sent ashore our Canoa to the Town Our people were met by an Officer at their landing and our Quarter-master who was the chiefest man in the Boat was conducted before the Governour and examined of what Nation we were and what was our business here He answered that we were English and were bound to Amoy or Anhay which is a City standing on a Navigable River in the Province of Fokien in China and is a place of vast Trade there being a huge multititude of Ships there and in general on all these Coasts as I have heard of several that have been there He said also that having received some damage by a storm we therefore put in here to refit before we would adventure to go farther and that we did intend to lye here till after the full Moon for fear of another storm The Governour told him that we might better refit our Ship at Amoy than here and that he heard that two English Vessels were arrived there already and that he should be very ready to assist us in any thing but we must not expect to Trade there but must go to the places allowed to entertain Merchant Strangers which were Amoy and Macao Macao is a Town of great Trade also lying in an Island at the very mouth of the River of Canton 'T is fortified and garrisoned by a large Portuguese Colony but yet under the Chinese Governour whose people inhabit one moyety of the Town and lay on the Portuguese what Tax they please for they dare not disoblige the Chinese for fear of losing their Trade However the Governour very kindly told our Quarter-master that whatsoever we wanted if that place could furnish us we should have it Yet that we must not come ashore on that Island but he would send aboard some of his men to know what we wanted and they should also bring it off to us That nevertheless we might go on shore on the other Islands to buy refreshments of the Chinese After the discourse was ended the Governour dismist him with a small jar of Flower and 3 or 4 large Cakes of very fine Bread and about a dozen Pine-apples and Water-melons all very good in their kind as a Present to the Captain The next day an eminent Officer came aboard with a great many Attendants He wore a black Silk Cap of a particular make with a plume of black and white Feathers standing up almost round his head behind and all his outside Cloaths were black Silk He had a loose black Coat which reached to his Knees and his Breeches were of the same and underneath his Coat he had two Garments more of other coloured Silk His Legs were covered with small black limber Boots All his Attendants were in a very handsom garb of black Silk all wearing those small black Boots and Caps These Caps were like the Crown of a Hat made of Palmeto-leaves like our Straw-hats but without â—…brims and coming down but to their Ears These had no Feathers but had an oblong Button on the top and from between the Button and the Cap there fell down all round their Head as low as the Cap reached a sort of course Hair like Horse-hair dyed as I suppose of a light red colour The Officer brought aboard as a present from the Governour a young Heifer the fattest and kindliest Beef that I did ever taste in any foreign Country 'T was small yet full grown 2 large Hogs 4 Goats 2 Baskets of fine Flower 20 great flat Cakes of fine well tasted Bread 2 great Jars of Arack made of Rice as I judged called by the Chinese Sam Shu and 55 Jars of Hog Shu as they call it and our Europeans from them This is a strong Liquor made of Wheat as I have been told It looks like Mum and tastes much like it and is very pleasant and hearty Our Seamen love it mightily and will lick their Lips with it for scarce a Ship goes to China but the men come home fat with soaking this Liquor and bring store of Jars of it home with them It is put into small white thick Jars that hold near a quart The double Jars hold about two quarts These Jars are small below and thence rise up with a pretty full belly closing in pretty short at top with a small thick mouth Over the mouth of the Jar they put a thin chip cut round just so as to cover the mouth over that a piece of paper and over that they put a great lump of clay almost as big as the Bottle or Jar it self with a hollow in it to admit the neck of the Bottle made round and about 4 inches long this is to preserve the Liquor If the Liquor take any vent it will be sowre presently so that when we buy any of it of the Ships from China returning to Maderas or Fort St. George where it is then sold or of the Chinese themselves of whom I have bought it at Achin and Bancouli in Sumatra if the clay be crackt or the Liquor mothery we make them take it again A quart Jar there is worth Sixpence
Besides this present from the Governour there was a Captain of a Jonk sent two Jars of Arack and abundance of Pine-apples and Water-melons Captain Read sent ashore as a Present to the Governour a curious Spanish Silver-hilted Rapier an English Carbine and a Gold Chain and when the Officer went ashore three Guns were fired In the afternoon the Governour sent off the same Officer again to complement the Captain for his civility and promised to retaliate his kindness before we departed but we had such blustring weather afterward that no Boat could come aboard We stayed here till the 29th day and then sailed from hence with the wind at S. W. and pretty fair weather We now directed our course for some Islands we had chosen to go to that lye between Formosa and Luconia They are laid down in our plots without any name only with a figure of 5 denoting the number of them It was supposed by us that these Islands had no Inhabitants because they had not any name by our Hydographers Therefore we thought to lye there secure and be pretty near the Island Luconia which we did still intend to visit In going to them we sailed by the South West end of Formosa leaving it on our larboard side This is a large Island the South end is in lat 21 d. 20 m. and the North end in 25 d. 10 m. North lat the longitude of this Isle is laid down from 142 d. 5 m. to 143 d. 16 m. reckoning East from the pike of Tenariffe so that 't is but narrow and the Tropick of Cancer crosses it It is a high and woody Island and was formerly well inhabited by the Chinese and was then frequently visited by English Merchants there being a very good Harbour to secure their Ships But since the Tartars have conquered China they have spoiled the Harbour as I have been informed to hinder the Chinese that were then in Rebellion from fortifying themselves there and ordered the foreign Merchants to come and trade on the Main The 6th day of August we arrived at the five Islands that we were bound to and anchored on the East side of the Northermost Island in 15 fathom a Cables length from the shore Here contrary to our expectation we found abundance of Inhabitants in sight for there were 3 large Towns all within a league of the Sea and another larger Town than any of the three on the back side of a small hill close by also as we found afterwards These Islands lye in lat 20 d. 20 m. North lat by my observation for I took it there and I find their Longitude according to our Drafts to be 141 d. 50 m. These Islands having no particular Names in the Drafts some or other of us made use of the Seamens priviledge to give them what names we pleased Three of the Islands were pretty large the Westermost is the biggest This the Dutch men who were among us called the Prince of Orange's Island in honour of his present Majesty It is about 7 or 8 leagues long and about 2 leagues wide and it lies almost N. and S. The other two great Islands are about 4 or 5 leagues to the Eastward of this The Northermost of them where we first anchored I called the D. of Grafton's Isle as soon as we landed on it having married my Wife out of his Dutchess's Family and leaving her at Arlington house at my going aboard This Isle is about 4 leagues long and one league and a half wide stretching North and South The other great Isle our Seamen called the Duke of Monmouth's Island This is about a league to the Southward of Grafton Isle It is about 3 leagues long and a league wide lying as the other Between Monmouth and the South end of Orange Island there are two small Islands of a roundish form lying East and West The Eastermost Island of the two our men unanimously called Bashee Island from a Liquor which we drank there plentifully every day after we came to an anchor at it The other which is the smallest of all we called Goat Island from the great number of Goats there and to the Northward of them all are two high Rocks Orange Island which is the biggest of them all is not inhabited It is high Land flat and even on the top with steep cliffs against the Sea for which reason we could not go ashore there as we did on all the rest I have made it my general observation that where the Land is fenced with steep Rocks and Cliffs against the Sea there the Sea is very deep and seldom affords anchor ground and on the other side where the Land falls away with a declivity into the Sea altho the Land be exrraordinary high within yet there are commonly good soundings and consequently anchoring and as the visible declivity of the Land appears near or at the edge of the Water whether pretty steep or more sloping so we commonly find our anchor ground to be more or less deep or steep therefore we came nearer the shore or anchor farther off as we see convenient for there is no Coast in the World that I know or have heard of where the Land is of a continual heighth without some small Valleys or declivities which lye intermixt with the high Land They are these subsidings of Valleys or low Lands that make dents in the shore and Creeks small Bays and Harbours or little Coves c. which afford good anchoring the surface of the Earth being there lodged deep under Water Thus we find many good Harbours on such Coasts where the Land bounds the Sea with steep Clifs by reason of the Declivities or subsiding of the Land between these Cliffs But where the Declension from the Hills or Cliffs is not within Land between Hill and Hill but as on the Coast of Chili and Peru the Declivity is toward the Main Sea or into it the Coast being perpendicular or very steep from the neighbouring Hills as in those Countries from the Andes that run along the shore there is a deep Sea and few or no Harbours or Creeks All that Coast is too steep for anchoring and hath the fewest Roads fit for Ships of any Coast I know The Coasts of Gallicia Portugal Norway and Newfoundland c. are Coasts like the Peruvian and the high Islands of the Archipelago but yet not so scanty of good Harbours for where there are short Ridges of Land there are good Bays at the extremities of those Ridges where they plunge into the Sea as on the Coast of Caraccos c. The Island of John Fernando and the Island St. Helena c. are such high Land with deep shore and in general the plunging of any Land under Water seems to be in proportion to the rising of its continuous part above Water more or less steep and it must be a bottom almost level or very gently declining that affords good anchoring Ships being soon driven from their Moorings on
a steep bank Therefore we never strive to anchor where we see the Land high and bounding the Sea with steep Cliffs and for this reason when we came in sight of States Island near Terra del Fuego before we entered into the South Seas we did not so much as think of anchoring after we saw what Land it was because of the steep Cliffs which appear'd against the Sea Yet there might be little Harbours or Coves for Shallops or the like to anchor in which we did not see nor search after As high steep Cliffs bounding on the Sea have this ill consequence that they seldom afford anchoring so they have this benefit that we can see them far off and sail close to them without danger for which reason we call them Bold Shores Whereas low Land on the contrary is seen but a little way and in many places we dare not come near it for fear of running aground before we see it Besides there are in many places shoals thrown out by the course of great Rivers that from the low Land fall into the Sea This which I have said that there is usually good anchoring near low Lands may be illustrated by several instances Thus on the South side of the Bay of Campeachy there is mostly low Land and there also is good anchoring all along shore and in some places to the Eastward of the Town of Campeachy we shall have so many fathom as we are leagues off from Land that is from 9 or 10 leagues distance till you come within 4 leagues and from thence to Land it grows but shallower The Bay of Honduras also is low Land and continues mostly so as we past along from thence to the Coasts of Portobel and Cartagena till we came as high as Santa Martha afterwards the Land is low again till you come towards the Coast of Caraccus which is a high Coast and bold shore The Land about Surinam on the same Coast is low and good anchoring and that over on the Coast of Guinea is such also And such too is the Bay of Panama where the Pilot-book orders the Pilot always to sound and not to come within such a depth be it by night or day In the same Seas from the high Land of Guatimala in Mexico to California there is mostly low Land and good anchoring In the Main of Asia the Coast of China the Bays of Siam and Bengal and all the Coast of Coromandel and the Coast about Malacca and against it the Island Sumatra on that side are mostly low anchoring shores But on the West side of Sumatra the shore is high and bold so most of the Islands lying to the Eastward of Sumatra as the Islands Borneo Celebes Gilolo and abundance of Island of less note lying scattering up and down those Seas are low Land and have good anchoring about them with many shoals scattered to and fro among them but the Islands lying against the East Indian Ocean especially the West sides of them are high Land and steep particularly the West parts not only of Sumatra but also of Java Timor c. Particulars are endless but in general 't is seldom but high Shores and deep Waters and on the other side low Land and shallow Seas are found together But to return from this digression to speak of the rest of these Islands Monmouth and Grafton Isles are very hilly with many of those steep inhabited Precipices on them that I shall describe particularly The two small Islands are flat and even only the Bashee Island hath one steep scraggy Hill but Goat-Island is all flat and very even The mold of these Islands in the Valleys is blackish in some places but in most red The Hills are very rocky The Valleys are well watered with Brooks of fresh water which run into the Sea in many different places The Soil is indifferent fruitful especially in the Valleys producing pretty great plenty of Trees tho not very big and thick Grass The sides of the Mountains have also short Grass and some of the Mountains have Mines within them for the Natives told us that the yellow Metal they shew'd us as I shall speak more particularly came from these Mountains for when they held it up they would point towards them The fruit of the Islands are a few Plantains Bonanoes Pine-apples Pumkins Sugar-canes c. and there might be more if the Natives would for the ground seems fertile enough Here are great plenty of Potatoes and Yames which is the common food for the Natives for bread kind for those few Plantains they have are only used as Fruit. They have some Cotton growing here of the small plants Here are plenty of Goats and abundance of Hogs but few Fowls either wild or tame For this I have always observed in my Travels both in the East and West Indies that in those places where there is plenty of Grain that is of Rice in the one and Maiz in the other there are also found great abundance of Fowls but on the contrary few Fowls in those Countries where the Inhabitants feed on Fruits and Roots only The few wild Fowls that are here are Parakites and some other small Birds Their tame Fowl are only a few Cocks and Hens Monmouth and Grafton Islands are very thick inhabited and Bashee Island hath one Town on it The Natives of these Islands are short squat people they are generally round visaged with low Foreheads and thick Eye-brows their Eyes of a hazel colour and small yet bigger than the Chinese short low Noses and their Lips and Mouths middle proportioned Their Teeth are white their Hair is black and thick and lank which they wear but short it will just cover their Ears and so it is cut round very even Their Skins are of a very dark copper colour They wear no Hat Cap nor Turbat nor any thing to keep off the Sun The men for the biggest part have only a small clout to cover their Nakedness some of them have Jackets made of Plantain leaves which were as rough as any Bears skin I never saw such rugged things The Women have a short Petticoat made of Cotton which comes a little below their Knees It is a thick sort of stubborn cloath which they make themselves of their Cotton Both Men and Women do wear large Ear-rings made of that yellow Metal before mention'd Whether it were Gold or no I cannot positively say I took it to be so it was heavy and of the colour of our paler Gold I would fain have brought away some to have satisfied my curiosity but I had nothing wherewith to buy any Captain Read bought 2 of these Rings with some Iron of which the people are very greedy and he would have bought more thinking he was come to a very fair Market but that the paleness of the Metal made him and his Crew distrust its being right Gold For my part I should have ventur'd on the purchase of some but having no property in
side of which are 4 small Islands close by it which are very well stored with Cloves The two chiefest are Ternate and Tidore and as the Isle of Ceylon is reckoned the only place for Cinnamon and that of Banda for Nutmegs so these are thought by some to be the only Clove Islands in the World but this is a great error as I have already shewn At the South end of the Island Celebes there is a Sea or Gulph of about 7 or 8 leagues wide and 40 or 50 long which runs up the Countrey almost directly to the North and this Gulph hath several small Islands along the middle of it On the West side of the Island almost at the South end of it the Town of Macasser is seated A Town of great Strength and Trade belonging to the Dutch There are great Inlets and Lakes on the East side of the Island as also abundance of small Islands and sholes lying scattered about it We saw a high peeked Hill at the N. end but the Land on the East side is low all along for we cruized almost the length of it The mold on this side is black and deep and extraordinary fat and rich and full of Trees and there are many Brooks of Water run out into the Sea Indeed all this East side of the Island seems to be but one large Grove of extraordinary great high Trees Having with much ado got on this East side coasting along to the Southward and yet having but little Wind and even that little against us at S. S. W. and sometimes Calm we were a long time going about the Island The 22d day we were in Lat. 1 d. 20 m. South and being about 3 leagues from the Island standing to the Southward with a very gentle Land wind about 2 or 3 a clock in the morning we heard a clashing in the Water like Boats rowing and fearing some sudden attack we got up all our Arms and stood ready to defend our selves As soon as it was day we saw a great Proe built like the Mindanayan Proe's with about 60 men in her and 6 smaller Proe's They lay still about a mile to Windward of us to view us and probably design'd to make a prey of us when they first came out but they were now afraid to venture on us At last we shewed them Dutch Colours thinking thereby to allure them to come to us for we could not go to them but they presently rowed in toward the Island and went into a large opening and we saw them no more nor did we ever see any other Boats or Men but only one fishing Canoa while we were about this Island neither did we see any House on all the Coast. About 5 or 6 leagues to the South of this place there is a great Range of both large and small Islands and many shoals also that are not laid down in our Drafts which made it extreamly troublesom for us to get through But we past between them all and the Island Celebes and anchored against a sandy Bay in 8 fathom sandy ground about half a mile from the main Island being then in lat 1 d. 50 m. South Here we stayed several days and sent out our Canoas a striking of Turtle every day for here is great plenty of them but they were very shy as they were generally where-ever we found them in the East India Seas I know not the reason of it unless the Natives go very much a striking here for even in the West Indies they are shy in places that are much disturbed and yet on New Holland we found them shy as I shall relate though the Natives there do not molest them On the sholes without us we went and gathered Shell-fish at low water There were a monstrous sort of Cockles the Meat of one of them would suffice 7 or 8 Men. It was very good wholsom Meat We did also beat about in the Woods on the Island but found no game One of our Men who was always troubled with sore Legs found a certain Vine that supported it self by climbing about other Trees The leaves reach'd 6 or 7 feet high but the strings or branches 11 or 12. It had a very green leaf pretty broad and roundish and of a thick substance These leaves pounded small and boiled with Hogs Lard make an excellent Salve Our Men knowing the vertues of it stockt themselves here there was scarce a Man in the Ship but got a pound or two of it especially such as were troubled with old Ulcers who found great benefit by it This Man that discovered these leaves here had his first knowledge of them in the Isthmus of Darien he having had this Receipt from one of the Indians there and he had been ashore in divers places since purposely to seek these leaves but did never find any but here Among the many vast Trees hereabouts there was one exceeded all the rest This Captain Read caused to be cut down in order to make a Canoa having lost our Boats all but one small one in the late Storms so 6 lusty Men who had been Logwood cutters in the Bays of Campeachy and Honduras as Captain Read himself and many more of us had and so were very expert at this work undertook to fell it taking their turns 3 always cutting together and they were one whole day and half the next before they got it down This Tree though it grew in a Wood was yet 18 foot in circumference and 44 foot of clean body without knot or branch and even there it had no more than one or two branches and then ran clean again 10 foot higher there it spread it self into many great limbs and branches like an Oak very green and flourishing yet it was perisht at the heart which marr'd it for the service intended So leaving it and having no more business here we weighed and went from hence the next day it being the 29th day of November While we lay here we had some Tornadoes one or two every day and pretty fresh Land Winds which were at West The Sea breezes were small and uncertain sometimes out of the N. E. and so veering about to the East and South East We had the Wind at North East when we weighed and we steered off S. S. W. In the afternoon we saw a shole a head of us and altered our course to the S. S. E. In the evening at 4 a clock we were close by another great shole therefore we tackt and stood in for the Island Celebes again for fear of running on some of the sholes in the night By day a Man might avoid them well enough for they had all Beacons on them like Huts built on tall Posts above high-water mark probably set up by the Natives of the Island Celebes or those of some other neighbouring Islands and I never saw any such elsewhere In the night we had a violent Tornado out of the S. W. which lasted about an hour The 30th day
we had a fresh Land Wind and steered away South passing between the 2 Shoals which we saw the day before These Shoals lye in lat 3 d. South and about 10 leagues from the Island Celebes Being past them the Wind died away and we lay decalmed till the afternoon Then we had a hard Tornado out of the South West and towards the evening we saw two or three Spouts the first I had seen since I came into the East Indies in the West Indies I had often met with them A Spout is a small ragged piece or part of a Cloud hanging down about a yard seemingly from the blackest part thereof Commonly it hangs down sloping from thence or sometimes appearing with a small bending or elbow in the middle I never saw any hang perpendicularly down It is small at the lower end seeming no bigger than ones Arm but 't is fuller towards the Cloud from whence it proceeds When the surface of the Sea begins to work you shall see the Water for about 100 paces in circumference foam and move gently round till the whirling motion increases and then it flies upward in a pillar about 100 paces in compass at the bottom but lessening gradually upwards to the smallness of the Spout it self there where it reacheth the lower end of the Spout through which the rising Sea-water seems to be conveyed into the Clouds This visibly appears by the Clouds increasing in bulk and blackness Then you shall presently see the Cloud drive along although before it seemed to be without any motion the Spout also keeping the same course with the Cloud and still sucking up the Water as it goes along and they make a Wind as they go Thus it continues for the space of half an hour more or less until the sucking is spent and then breaking off all the Water which was below the Spout or pendulous piece of Cloud falls down again into the Sea making a great noise with its fall and clashing motion in the Sea It is very dangerous for a Ship to be under a Spout when it breaks therefore we always endeavoured to shun it by keeping at a distance if possibly we can But for want of Wind to carry us away we are often in great fear and danger for it is usually calm when Spouts are at work except only just where they are Therefore men at Sea when they see a Spout coming and know not how to avoid it do sometimes fire shot out of their great Guns into it to give it air or vent that so it may break but I did never hear that it proved to be of any benefit And now being on this subject I think it not amiss to give you an account of an accident that happened to a Ship once on the Coast of Guinea some time in or about the year 1674. One Captain Records of London bound for the Coast of Guinea in a Ship of 300 Tuns and 16 Guns called the Blessing when he came into the lat 7 or 8 degrees North he saw several Spouts one of which came directly towards the Ship and he having no Wind to get out of the way of the Spout made ready to receive it by furling his sails It came on very swift and broke a little before it reached the Ship making a great noise and raising the Sea round it as if a great house or some such thing had been cast into the Sea The fury of the Wind still lasted and took the Ship on the Starboard bow with such violence that it snapt off the Boltsprit and Fore-mast both at once and blew the Ship all along ready to over-set it but the Ship did presently right again and the Wind whirling round took the Ship a second time with the like fury as before but on the contrary side and was again like to overset her the other way The Mizen-mast felt the fury of this second blast and was snapt short off as the Fore-mast and Bolt-sprit had been before The Main-mast and Main-top-mast received no damage for the fury of the Wind which was presently over did not reach them Three men were in the Fore-top when the Fore-mast broke and one on the Boltsprit and fell with them into the Sea but all of them were saved I had this relation from Mr. John Canby who was then Quarter-master and Steward of her one Ahraham Wise was chief Mate and Leonard Jefferies second Mate We are usually very much afraid of them yet this was the only damage that ever I heard done by them They seem terrible enough the rather because they come upon you while you lie becalm'd like a Log in the Sea and cannot get out of their way but though I have seen and been beset by them often yet the fright was always the greatest of the harm December the 1st we had a gentle gale at E. S. E. we steered South and at noon I was by Observation in lat 3 d. 34 m. South Then we saw the Island Bouton bearing South West and about 10 leagues distant We had very uncertain and unconstant Winds The Tornadoes came out of the S. W. which was against us and what other Winds we had were so saint that they did us little kinndess but we took the advantage of the smallest gale and got a little way every day The 4th day at noon I was by Observation in Lat. 4 d. 30 m. South The 5th day we got close by the N. W. end of the Island Bouton and in the evening it being fair weather we hoised out our Canoa and sent the Moskito men of whom we had 2 or 3 to strike Turtle for here are plenty of them but they being shy we chose to strike them in the night which is customary in the West Indies also For every time they come up to breathe which is once in 8 or 10 minutes they blow so hard that one may hear them at 30 or 40 yards distance by which means the Striker knows where they are and may more easily approach them than in the day for the Turtle sees bettter than he hears but on the contrary the Manatee's hearing is quickest In the morning they returned with a very large Turtle which they took near the shore and withal an Indian of the Island came aboard with them He spake the Malayan Language by which we did understand him He told us that 2 leagues farther to the Southward of us there was a good Harbour in which we might Anchor So having a fair Wind we got thither by noon This Harbour is in Lat. 4 d. 54 m. South lying on the East side of the Island Bouton Which Island lyes near the S. E. end of the Island Celebes distant from it about 3 or 4 leagues It is of a long form stretching S. W. and N. E. about 25 leagues long and 10 broad It is pretty high Land and appears pretty even and flat and very woody There is a large Town within a league of the anchoring
we bore away on the North side till we came to the East point giving the Rocks a small birth then we trimb'd sharp and stood to the Southward passing close by it and sounded again but found no ground This shoal is laid down in our Drafts not above 16 or 20 leagues from New Holland but we did run afterwards 60 leagues due South before we fell in with it and I am very confident that no part of New Holland hereabouts lyes so far Northerly by 40 leagues as it is laid down in our Drafts For if New Holland were laid down true we must of necessity have been driven near 40 leagues to the Westward of our course but this is very improbable that the Current should set so strong to the Westward seeing we had such a constant Westerly Wind. I grant that when the Monsoon shifts first the Current does not presently shift but runs afterwards near a month but the Monsoon had been shifted at least two months now But of the Monsoons and other Winds and of the Currents elsewhere in their proper place As to these here I do rather believe that the Land is not laid down true than that the Current deceived us for it was more probable we should have been deceived before we met with the shoal than afterward for on the Coast of New Holland we found the Tides keeping their constant course the Flood running N. by E. and the Ebb S. by W. The 4th day of January 1688 we fell in with the Land of New Holland in the Lat. of 16 d. 50 m. having as I said before made our course due South from the shoal that we past by the 31st day of December We ran in close by it and finding no convenient anchoring because it lies open to the N. W. we ran along shore to the Eastward steering N. E. by E. for so the Land lies We steered thus about 12 leagues and then came to a point of Land from whence the Land trends East and Southerly for 10 or 12 leagues but how afterwards I know not About 3 leagues to the Eastward of this point there is a pretty deep Bay with abundance of Islands in it and a very good place to anchor in or to hale ashore About a league to the Eastward of that point we anchored January the 5th 1688. 2 mile from the shore in 29 fathom good hard sand and clean ground New Holland is a very large tract of Land It is not yet determined whether it is an Island or a main Continent but I am certain that it joyns neither to Asia Africa nor America This part of it that we saw is all low even Land with sandy Banks against the Sea only the points are rocky and so are some of the Islands in this Bay The Land is of a dry sandy soil destitute of Water except you make Wells yet producing divers sorts of Trees but the Woods are not thick nor the Trees very big Most of the Trees that we saw are Dragon-trees as we supposed and these too are the largest Trees of any there They are about the bigness of our large Apple Trees and about the same heighth and the rind is blackish and somewhat rough The leaves are of a dark colour the Gum distils out of the knots or cracks that are in the bodies of the Trees We compared it with some Gum Dragon or Dragons Blood that was aboard and it was of the same colour and taste The other sorts of Trees were not known by any of us There was pretty long grass growing under the Trees but it was very thin We saw no Trees that bore Fruit or Berries We saw no sort of Animal nor any track of Beast but once and that seemed to be the tread of a Beast as big as a great Mastiff Dog Here are a few small Land-birds but none bigger than a Blackbird and but few Sea-fowls Neither is the Sea very plentifully stored with Fish unless you reckon the Manatee and Turtle as such Of these creatures there is plenty but they are extraordinary shy though the Inhabitants cannot trouble them much having neither Boats nor Iron The Inhabitants of this Country are the miserablest People in the world The Hodmadods of Monomatapa though a nasty People yet for Wealth are Gentlemen to these who have no Houses and Skin Garments Sheep Poultry and Fruits of the Earth Ostrich Eggs c. as the Hodmadods have and setting aside their humane shape they differ but little from Brutes They are tall strait bodied and thin with small long Limbs They have great Heads round Foreheads and great Brows Their Eye-lids are always half closed to keep the Flies out of their Eyes they being so troublesome here that no fanning will keep them from coming to ones Face and without the assistance of both hands to keep them off they will creep into ones Nostrils and Mouth too if the Lips are not shut very close So that from their Infancy being thus annoyed with these Insects they do never open their Eyes as other People and therefore they cannot see far unless they hold up their Heads as if they were looking at somewhat over them They have great Bottle noses pretty full lips and wide mouths The two fore teeth of their upper Jaw are wanting in all of them men and women old and young whether they draw them out I know not Neither have they any Beards They are long visaged and of a very unpleasing aspect having no one graceful feature in their faces Their Hair is black short and curl'd like that of the Negroes and not long and lank like the common Indians The colour of their skins both of their faces and the rest of their body is coal black like that of the Negroes of Guinea They have no sort of Cloaths but a piece of the rind of a Tree ty'd like a Girdle about their wastes and a handful of long Grass or 3 or 4 small green Boughs full of Leaves thrust under their Girdle to cover their nakedness They have no Houses but lye in the open Air without any covering the Earth being their Bed and the Heaven their Canopy Whether they cohabit one Man to one Woman or promiscuously I know not but they do live in Companies 20 or 30 Men Women and Children together Their only food is a small sort of Fish which they get by making Wares of stone across little Coves or branches of the Sea every Tide bringing in the small Fish and there leaving them for a prey to these people who constantly attend there to search for them at low water This small Fry I take to be the top of their Fishery they have no Instruments to catch great Fish should they come and such seldom stay to be left behind at low water nor could we catch any Fish with our Hooks and Lines all the while we lay there In other places at low water they seek for Cockles Muscles and Periwincles Of these Shell-fish there are
us at last the Captain ordered the Drum to be beaten which was done of a sudden with much vigor purposely to scare the poor Creatures They hearing the noise ran away as fast as they could drive and when they ran away in haste they would cry Gurry Gurry speaking deep in the Throat Those Inhabitants also that live on the Main would always run away from us yet we took several of them For as I have already observed they had such bad Eyes that they could not see us till we came close to them We did always give them victuals and let them go again but the Islanders after our first time of being among them did not stir for us When we had been here about a week we hal'd our Ship into a small sandy Cove at a Spring-tide as far as she would sloat and at low Water she was left dry and the sand dry without us near half a mile for the Sea riseth and falleth here about 5 fathom The Flood runs North by East and the Ebb South by West All the Neep-tides we lay wholly a ground for the Sea did not come near us by about a hundred yards We had therefore time enough to clean our Ships bottom which we did very well Most of our Men lay ashore in a Tent where our Sails were mending and our Strikers brought home Turtle and Manatee every day which was our constant food While we lay here I did endeavour to perswade our men to go to some English Factory but was threatened to be turned ashore and left here for it This made me desist and patiently wait for some more convenient place and opportunity to leave them than here Which I did hope I should accomplish in a short time because they did intend when they went from hence to bear down towards Cape Comorin In their way thither they design'd also to visit the Island Cocos which lyeth in Lat. 12 d. 12 m. North by our Drafts hoping there to find of that Fruit the Island having it name from thence CHAP. XVII Leaving New-Holland they pass by the Island Cocos and touch at another Woody Island near it A Land Animal like large Craw-fish Coco-Nuts floating in the Sea The Island Triste bearing Coco's yet over-flown every Spring-tide They anchor at a small Island near that of Nassaw Hog Island and others A Proe taken belonging to Achin Nicobar Island and the rest called by that Name Ambergrease good and bad The manners of the Inhabitants of these Islands They anchor at Nicobar Isle It s Situation Soil and pleasant Mixture of its Bays Trees c. The Melory tree and Fruit used for bread The Natives of Nicobar Island their Form Habit Language Habitations no form of Religion or Government Their Food and Canoas They clean the Ship The Author projects and gets leave to stay ashore here and with him two Englishmen more the Portuguese and 4 Malayans of Achin Their first Rencounters with the Natives Of the common Traditions concerning Cannibals or Man-Eaters Their Entertainment ashore They buy a Canoa to transport them over to Achin but overset her at first going cut Having recruited and improved her they set out again for the East side of the Island They have a War with the Islanders but Peace being re-established they lay in stores and make Preparations for their Voyage MArch the 12th 1688. we sailed from New Holland with the Wind at N. N. W. and fair weather We directed our course to the Northward intending as I said to touch at the Island Cocos but we met with the Winds at N. W. W. N. W. and N N. W. for several days which obliged us to keep a more Easterly course than was convenient to find that Island We had soon after our setting out very bad weather with much Thunder and Lightning Rain and high blustring Winds It was the 26th day of March before we were in the lat of the Island Cocos which is in 12 d. 12 m. and then by judgment we were 40 or 50 leagues to the East of it and the Wind was now at S. W. Therefore we did rather chuse to bear away towards some Islands on the West side of Sumatra than to beat against the Wind for the Island Cocos I was very glad of this being in hopes to make my escape from them to Sumatra or some other place We met nothing of remark in this Voyage beside the catching two great Sharks till the 28th day Then we fell in with a small woody Island in Lat. 10 d. 30 m. Its Longitude from New Holland from whence we came was by my account 12 d. 6 m. West It was deep water about the Island and therefore no anchoring but we sent 2 Canoas ashore one of them with the Carpenters to cut a Tree to make another Pump the other Canoa went to search for fresh water and found a fine small Brook near the S. W. point of the Island but there the Sea fell in on the ashore so high that they could not get it off At noon both our Canoas returned aboard and the Carpenters brought aboard a good Tree which they afterwards made a Pump with such a one as they made at Mindanao The other Canoa brought aboard as many Boobies and Men of War Birds as sufficed all the Ships Company when they were boiled They got also a sort of Land Animal somewhat resembling a large Craw-fish without its great Claws These creatures lived in holes in the dry sandy ground like Rabbits Sir Francis Drake in his Voyage round the world makes mention of such that he found at Ternate or some other of the Spice Islands or near them They were very good sweet Meat and so large that 2 of them were more than a Man could eat being almost as thick as ones Leg. Their Shells were of a dark brown but red when boiled This Island is of a good heighth with steep Cliffs against the S. and S. W. and a sandy Bay on the North side but very deep water steep to the shore The Mold is blackish the Soil fat producing large Trees of divers sorts About one a clock in the Afternoon we made sail from this Island with the wind at S. W. and we steered N. W. Afterwards the winds came about at N. W. and continued between the W. N. W. and the N. N. W. several days I observed that the winds blew for the most part out of the West or N. W. and then we had always rainy weather with Tornadoes and much Thunder and Lightning but when the wind came any way to the Southward it blew but faint and brought fair weather We met nothing of remark till the 7th day of April and then being in Lat. 7 d. S. we saw thâ—… Land of Sumatra at a great distance bearing North. The 8th day we saw the East end of the Island Sumatra very plainly we being then in Lat. 6 d. S. The 10th day being in Lat. 5 d. 11 m. and about 7
or 8 leagues from the Island Sumatra on the West side of it we saw abundance of Coco Nuts swimming in the Sea and we hoysed out our Boat and took up some of them as also a small Hatch or Scuttle rather belonging to some Bark The Nuts were very sound and the Kernel sweet and in some the Milk or Water in them was yet sweet and good The 13th day we came to a small Island called Triste in Lat. by observation 4 d. South it is about 14 or 15 leagues to the West of the Island Sumatra From hence to the Northward there are a great many small uninhabited Islands lying much at the same distance from Sumatra This Island Triste is not a mile round and so low that the Tide flows clear over it It is of a sandy soil and full of Coco-nut Trees The Nuts are but small yet sweet enough full and more ponderous than I ever felt any of that bigness notwithstanding that every Spring-tide the Salt water goes clear over the Island We sent ashore our Canoas for Coco-nuts and they return'd aboard laden with them three times Our Strikers also went out and struck some Fish which was boiled for Supper They also killed 2 young Aligators which we salted for the next day I had no opportunity at this place to make my Escape as I would have done and gone over hence to Sumatra could I have kept a Boat with me But there was no compassing this and so the 15th day we went from hence steering to the Northward on the West side of Sumatra Our Food now was Rice and the Meat of the Coco-nuts rasped and steep'd in water which made a sort of Milk into which we did put our Rice making a pleasant Mess enough After we parted from Triste we saw other small Islands that were also full of Coco-nut Trees The 19th day being in Lat. 3 d. 25 m. S. the S. W. point of the Island Nassau bore N. about 5 mile dist This is a pretty large uninhabited Island in Lat. 3 d. 20 m. S. and is full of high Trees About a mile from the Island Nassau there is a small Island full of Coco-nut Trees There we anchored the 20th day to replenish our stock of Coco-nut Trees A 〈◊〉 riff of Rocks lies almost round this Island so that our Boats could not go ashore nor come aboard at low water yet we got aboard 4 Boat loads of Nuts This Island is low like Triste and the anchoring is on the North side where you have 14 fathom a mile from shore clean sand The 21st day we went from hence and kept to the Northward coasting still on the West side of the Island Sumatra and having the winds between the W. and S. S. W. with unsettled weather sometimes Rains and Tornadoes and sometimes fair weather The 25th day we crost the Equator still coasting to the Northward between the Island Sumatra and a range of small Islands lying 14 or 15 leagues off it Among all these Islands Hog Island is the most considerable It lies in lat 3 d. 40. m. North. It is pretty high even Land cloathed with tall flourishing Trees we past by it the 28th day The 29th we saw a sail to the North of us which we chased but it being little wind we did not come up with her till the 30th day Then being within a league of her Captain Read went in a Canoa and took her and brought her aboard She was a Proe with 4 men in her belonging to Achin whither she was bound She came from one of these Coco-nut Islands that we past by and was laden with Coco-nuts and Goco-nut Oil. Captain Read ordered his men to take aboard all the Nuts and as much of the Oyl as he thought convenient and then cut a hole in the bottom of the Proe and turned her loose keeping the men Prisoners It was not for the lucre of the Cargo that Captain Read took this Boat but to hinder me and some others from going ashore for he knew that we were ready to make our escapes if an opportunity presented it self and he thought that by his abusing and robbing the Natives we should be afraid to trust our selves among them But yet this proceeding of his turned to our great advantage as shall be declared hereafter May the 1st we ran down by the North West end of the Island Sumatra within 7 or 8 leagues of the shore All this West side of Sumatra which we thus coasted along our Englishmen at Fort St. George call the West Coast simply without adding the name of Sumatra The Prisoners who were taken the day before shewed us the Islands that lye off of Achin Harbour and the Channels through which Ships go in and told us also that there was an English Factory at Achin I wisht my self there but was forced to wait with patience till my time was come We were now directing our course towards the Nicobar Islands intending there to clean the Ship 's bottom in order to make her sail well The 4th day in the evening we had sight of one of the Nicobar Islands The Southermost of them lies about 40 leagues N. N. W. from rhe N. W. end of the Island Sumatra This most Southerly of them is Nicobar it self but all the cluster of Islands lying South of the Audeman Islands are called by our Seamen the Nicobar Islands The Inhabitants of these Islands have no certain converse with any Nation but as Ships pass by them they will come aboard in their Proes and offer their Commodities to sale never inquiring of what Nation they are for all white people are alike to them Their chiefest Commodities are Ambergrease and Fruits Ambergrease is often found by the Native Indians of these Islands who know it very well as also know how to cheat ignorant Strangers with a certain mixture like it Several of our men bought such of them for a small purchase Captain Weldon also about this time touched at some of these Islands to the North of the Island where we lay and I saw a great deal of such Ambergrease that one of his men bought there but it was not good having no smell at all Yet I saw some there very good and fragrant At that Island where Captain Weldon was there were 2 Fryers sent thither to convert the Indians One of them came away with Captain Weldon the other remained there still He that came away with Captain Weldon gave a very good character of the Inhabitants of that Island viz. that they were very honest civil harmless People that they were not addicted to Quarrelling Theft or Murder that they did marry or at least live as Man and Wife one Man with one Woman never changing till Death made the separation that they were punctual and honest in performing their Bargains and that they were inclined to receive the Christian Religion This Relation I had afterwards from the mouth of a Priest at Tonqueen who told me that he
this means is at least 3 months within 4 degrees of the Zenith so that they have the Sun in a manner over their heads from the beginning of May till the latter end of July Whereas when the Sun comes under the Line in March or September it immediately posts away to the North or the South and is not 20 days in passing from 3 degrees on one side to 3 degrees on the other side the Line So that by his small stay there the heat cannot be answerable to what it is near the Tropick where he so long continues in a manner Vertical at Noon and is so much longer above the Horizon each paaticular day with the intervening of a shorter night But to return to Tonquin During the wet months there 't is excessive hot especially whenever the Sun breaks out of the Clouds and there is then but little Wind stirring And I have been told by a Gentleman who liv'd there many years that he thought it was the hottest place that ever he was in tho he had been in many other parts of India And as to the Rains it has not the least share of them tho neither altogether the greatest of what I have met with in the Torrid Zone and even in the same Latitude and on the same side of the Equator The wet season begins here the latter end of April or the beginning of May and holds till the latter end of August in which time are very violent Rains some of many hours others of 2 or 3 days continuance Yet are not these Rains without some considerable intervals of fair weather especially toward the beginning or end of the season By these Rains are caus'd those Land-floods which never fail in these Countries between the Tropicks at their annual periods all the Rivers then overflowing their Banks This is a thing so well known to all who are any way acquainted with the Torrid Zone that the cause of the overflowing of the Nile to find out which the Ancients set their wits so much upon the rack and fancied melting of Snows and blowing of Etesiae and I know not what is now no longer a secret For these floods must needs discharge themselves upon such low Lands as lie in their way as the Land of Egypt does with respect to the Nile coming a great way from within the Torrid Zone and falling down from the higher Ethiopia And any one who will be at the pains to compare the time of the Land flood in Egypt with that of the Torrid Zone in any of the parts of it along which the Nile runs will find that of Egypt so much later than the other as 't will be thought reasenable to allow for the daily progress of the Waters along so vast a tract of Ground They might have made the same wonderment of any other Rivers which run any long course from out the Torrid Zone but they knowing only the North Temperate Zone and the Nile being the only great River known to come thither a great way from a Country near the Line they made that only the subject of their enquiry but the same effect must also follow from any great River that should run from out of the Torrid Zone into the South Temperate Zone And as to the Torrid Zone the yearly floods and their cause are every where as well known by people there as the Rivers themselves In America particularly in Campeachy Rivers in Rio Grande and others 't is a vast havock is made by these floods bringing down sometimes Trees of an incredible bigness and these floods always come at the stated season of the year In the dry part of Peru along the coasts of Pacifick Sea where it never rains as it seldom does in Egypt they have not only Floods but Rivers themselves made by the annual falling of Rain on the Mountains within Land the Channels of which are dry all the rest of the year This I have observ'd concerning the River Ylo on the Coast of Peru in my former Volume p. 95. But it has this difference from the Floods of Egypt that besides its being a River in the Torrid Zone 't is also in South Latitude and so overflows at a contrary season of the year to wit at such time as the Sun being in Southern Signs causes the Rains and Floods on that side the Line But to return from this digression in August the weather at Tonquin is more moderate as to heat or wet yet not without some showers and September and October are more temperate still yet the worst weather in all the year for Seamen is in one of the 3 months last mentioned for then the violent Storms called Tuffoons Typhones are expected These winds are so very fierce that for fear of them the Chinese that Trade thither will not stir out of Harbour till the end of October after which month there is no more danger of any violent Storms till the next year Tuffoons are a particular kind of violent Storms blowing on the Coast of Tonquin and the neighboring Coasts in the months of July August and September They commonly happen near the full or change of the Moon and are usually preceded by very fair weather small winds and a clear Sky Those small winds veer from the common Trade of that time of the year which is here at S. W. and shuffles about to the N. and N. E. Before the Storm comes there appears a boding Cloud in the N. E. which is very black near the Horizon but towards the upper edge it looks of a dark copper colour and higher still it is brighter and afterwards it fades to a whitish glaring colour at the very edge of the Cloud This appears very amazing and ghastly and is sometimes seen 12 hours before the Storm comes When that Cloud begins to move apace you may expect the Wind presently It comes on fierce and blows very violent at N. E. 12 hours more or less It is also commonly accompanied with terrible claps of Thunder large and frequent flashes of Lightning and excessive hard rain When the Wind begins to abate it dyes away suddenly and falling flat calm it continues so an hour more or less then the wind comes about to the S. W. and it blows and rains as fierce from thence as it did before at N. E. and as long November and December are 2 very dry wholesom warm and pleasant months January February and March are pretty dry but then you have thick fogs in the morning and sometimes drisling cold rains the Air also in these 3 months particularly in January and February is very sharp especially when the wind is at North East or North North East whether because of the Quarter it blows from or the Land it blows over I know not for I have elsewhere observ'd such Winds to be Colder where they have come from over Land April is counted a moderate month either as to heat or cold driness or moisture This is ordinarily the
of the East-Province and bordering upon the Province of Tenan whither these Merchants were bound Captain Weldon was one who concern'd himself in this expedition hiring a Vessel and Seamen of the Tonquinese and sending some of his own men with them as a Guard among whom I would very fain have gone had I not been indisposed Mr. Ludford who had liv'd some time at Cachao before our arrival was another Undertaker and went himself on board the Bark he had hired but Captain Weldon staid behind at the City yet took care to get a Commission from the Governour of the East-Province for his Vessel In the Commission 't was exprest that his Boat should be armed with Guns or other Weapons and that his men should resist any that came to oppose them or any Vessels in their company and that they might kill and destroy any Robbers that they met with The passage to Tenan lay most within Land thro Creeks and narrow Channels among the Islands before-mentioned which are so many and lye on the East-side of the Bay so thick together and so nigh the shoar that at a small distance off at Sea they appear to be part of the main This little Archipelago lies within the precincts of the Governour of the East-Province from whom Captain Weldon had his Commission and who was a very great man in the Court of Tonquin When the Fleet came to this place some who lay here came forth and they concluded they must be the Pirates come to seize their prey as at other times These always choose rather to take the outward bound Vessels because then they have all of them Cash or Money aboard to purchase their Ladings but in their returns they would have only Rice which these people don't so much regard At this time Captain Weldon's Dutch Pilot the chief man whom he sent in his Bark was aboard Mr. Ludford's and when the supposed Pirates came up Mr. Ludford and he made the Seamen row the Bark to meet them and in a short time got so near that they fired at them These Men not expecting to have met such a reception for the Tonquinese have no Guns but in the Kings Gallies thought to save themselves by Flight but were so eagerly pursued by Mr. Ludford that at last they yielded to his mercy after they had lost one man in fight He joyful of this success secured the Prisoners and made the best of his course to the next Town on the Coast in his way there delivering up his Prisoners to the Magistrates and giving a full relation of the Action He expected a reward for his pains or at least to be highly applauded for it but found himself mistaken For the Prisoners obstinately denying what was alledged against them by Mr. Ludford saying they were poor Fishermen they were immediately acquitted as very honest persons and Mr. Ludford was accused for committing a Riot on men who were about their lawful occasions Mr. Ludford brought many of the Natives that were in his comp any to justify what he had done but to no purpose for he was fined 100000 Cash as our Merchants call it for the man that was killed Cash are a small kind of Copper Money and 't is the only Coin they have of their own if it be their own and not rather brought them from China They rise and fall in value according to the want or plenty of them or as the Women-exchangers can manage them but at this time they were at the rate of a Doller a thousand so that his fine was 100 Dollars When Mr. Ludford saw how hard it was like to go with him he thought to clear himself or lessen his fine by bringing Captain Weldon into the snare saying that he had no Guns in his Bark but made use of Captain Weldon's and that Captain Weldon's Pilot was aboard his Vessel and assisted in the Action But neither did this help him for upon trying the matter at Cachao whither 't was carried by Appeal Captain Weldons Commission saved him so that Mr. Ludford was forced to pay the Money which was more than he got by the Voyage This might be a warning to him how he meddled with Tonquin Pirates again for it was not enough for him to plead that they came with a intent to rob him Indeed if he had been robb'd he might have been pitied by the Magistrates on complaint of his misfortune but yet it is very probable that if he shou'd have taken them in the very fact possest of his goods these Vermin would have had one hole or another to creep out at so corrupt are the great men of this Kingdom And indeed 't is not improbable that these fellows were Fishermen and going about their business for there is good Fishing in all the Bay of Tonquin clear round it and there are many Boats that go out a fishing and the Fishermen are generally very honest and harmless men except now and then they attempt to make prize of some poor Vessel they meet and can overcome by their numbers without fighting for such an one they board and strip all the men naked even to there Skin Among these Islands also by report their are plenty of Pearl Oysters that have good Pearls in them but the Seamen are discouraged from fishing for them by the King for he seizeth on all he finds But this by their way nor was any thing else observable in this Voyage to Tenan These Vessels were 5 or 6 weeks in their Voyage to and from Tenan and at their return Captain Weldon's Bark went not up to Cachao with the Rice but unladed it into our Ship to supply us Soon after this I went a second time up to Cachao not in a Boat as before but on foot along the Country being desirous to see as much of it as I could and I hired a Tonquinese for about a Dollar to be my guide This tho but a small matter was a great deal out of my Pocket who had not above 2 Dollars in all which I had gotten on board by teaching some of our young Seamen Plain Sailing This was all I had to bear my own charges and my Guide's and 't was the worse with me because I was forc'd to make short Journeys every day by reason of my weakness It was about the latter end of Nov. 1688 when we set out We kept on the East-side of the River where we found the Roads pretty dry yet in some places dirty enough We ferry'd over several Creeks and Brooks running into the great River where are Ferry-boats always plying which have a few Cash for their fare The Fever and Ague which I brought with me from Achin was gone yet the Fruits I eat here especially the small Oranges brought me into a Flux However tho I was but weak yet was I not discouraged from this Journey being weary of lying still and impatient of seeing somewhat that might further gratify my curiosity We found no Houses of
whom I came acquainted with some time after this at Fort St. George and I had of him the following account the particulars of which I have also had confirmed by the Seamen who were with them These two Captains with many more English men had been for some time in the service of the King of Siam and each of them commanded a stout Frigot of his mann'd chiefly with English and some Portuguese born at Siam These the King of Siam sent against some Pyrates who made spoyl of his Subjects Trading in these Seas and nested themselves in an Island up the River of Cambodia Captain Howel told me that they found this River very large especially at its mouth that 't is deep and navigable for very great Vessels 60 or 70 Leagues up and that its depth and wideness extended much further up for ought he knew but so far they went up at this time with their Ships The Course of the River is generally from North to South and they found the Land low on each side with many large creeks and branches and in some places considerable Islands They bended their Course up that branch which seem'd most considerable having the Tyde of flood with them and the River commonly so wide as to give them room to turn or make Angles where the bending of the River was such as to receive a contrary East or South East Sea Wind. These reaches or bendings of the River East and West were very rare at least so as to make their Course be against the Sea wind which commonly blew in their Stern and fo fresh that with it they could stem the Tyde of Ebb. But in the night when the Land winds came they anchored and lay still till about 10 or 11 a Clock the next day at which time the Sea-breeze usually sprang up again and enabled them to continue their Course till they came to the Island where the Pirats inhabited They presently began to fire at them and landing their men routed them and burned their Houses and Fortifications and taking many prisoners returned again These Piratical People were by Nation Chinese who when the Tartars conquered their Country fled from thence in their own Ships as choosing rather to live any where free than to submit to the Tartars These it seems in their flight bent their Course towards this Country and finding the River of Cambodia open before them they made bold to enter and settle on the Island before mentioned There they built a Town and fenced it round about with a kind of Wood-pile or Wall of great Timber Trees laid along of the thickness of 3 or 4 of these Trees and of about as many in heighth They were provided with all sorts of Planters instruments and the Land hereabouts was excellent good as our English men told me so that 't is like they might have lived here happily enough had their inclinations led them to a quiet Life but they brought Arms along with them and chose to use them rather than their Instruments of Husbandry and they lived therefore mostly by rapin pillaging their Neighbours who were more addicted to traffick than fighting But the King of Siams Subjects having been long harrassed by them at Sea he first sent some Forces by Land to drive them out of their Fort till not succeeding that way he entirely Routed them by sending these 2 Ships up the River The 2 English Captains having thus effected their business returned out of the River with many Prisoners but the South West Monsoon being already set in they could not presently return to Siam and therefore went to Macao in China as well to wait for the N. East Monsoon as to ingratiate themselves with the Tartars who they thought would be pleased with the Conquest which they had made over these Chinese Pyrates They were well entertained there by the Tartarian Governor and gave him their Prisoners and upon the shifting of the Monsoon they returned to Siam There they were received with great applause Nor was this the first successful expedition the English have made in the K. of Siams service They once saved the Country by suppressing an insurrection made by the Buggasses The Buggasses are a sort of warlike Trading Malayans and mercenary Soldiers of India I know not well whence they come unless from Macasser in the Island Celebes Many of them had been entertained at Siam in the Kings service but at last being disgusted at some ill usuage they stood up in their own defence Some hundreds of them got together all well armed and these struck a dread into the hearts of the Siamites none of whom were able to stand before them till Constant Falcon the chief Minister Commanded the English that were then in the Kings service to march against them which they did with success tho with some considerable loss For these services the King gave every year to each of them a great Silk Coat on which were just 13 Buttons Those of the chief Commanders were of Massy Gold and those of the inferiour Officers were of Silver Plate This Expedition against the Chinese Pirats was about the year 1687 the other broyl with the Buggasses was as I take it some time before But to proceed with our Voyage we still kept our way Southward and in company together till we came about Pulo Condore but then Captain Pool parted from us standing more directly South for the Streights of Sundy and we steer'd more to the Westward to go thro the Streights of Malacca thro which we came before Captain Brewster and another of our Passengers began now to be in fear that the King of Siam would send Ships to lye at the Mouth of the Streights of Malacca and intercept our passage because there was a War broke out between the English East India Company and that Prince This seemed the more likely because the French at this time were imployed in that Kings service by the means of a French Bishop and other Ecclesiasticks who were striving to convert the King and people to Christianity thro the Interest they had got in Constant Falcon. Particularly they were afraid that the King of Siam would send the 2 Ships before mentioned which Captain Williams and Capt Howel had commanded a little before to lye at the west end of the Streights mouth but probably mann'd with French Men and French Commanders to take us Now tho this made but little impression on the minds of our Commanders and Officers yet it so happened that we had such thick dark weather when we came near the first Entrance of the Streights of Malacca which was that we came by and by which we meant to return that we thought it not safe to stand in at night and so lay by till morning The next day we saw a Jonk to the Southward and chased her and having spoke with her we made sail and stood to the Westward to pass the Streights and making the Land we found we were to the
numbers seldom less then 1000 and never more then 1500. But to proceed with these Weights which they use either for Money or Goods 100 Catty make a Pecul which is 132 l. English weight Three hundred Catty is a Bahar which is 396 l English weight but in some places as at Bencouli a Bahar is near 500 English weight Spanish pieces of Eight go here also and they are valued according to the plenty or scarcity of them Sometimes a Piece of Eight goes but for 4 Mess sometimes for 4 and half sometimes 5 Mess. They Coin but a small quantity of their Gold so much as may serve for their ordinary occasions in their Traffick one with another But as the Merchant when he receives large Summs always takes it by weight so they usually pay him unwrought Gold and quantity for quantity the Merchants chuse rather to receive this than the coined Gold and before their leaving the Country will change their Messes for uncoined Gold perhaps because of some deceits used by the Natives in their Coining This Gold they have from some Mountain a pretty way within Land from Achin but within their Dominions and rather near to the West Coast than the Streights of Malacca I take Golden Mount which I spoke of before to lie at no great distance from that of the Mines for there is very high Land all thereabouts To go thither they set out Eastward towards Passange Jonca and thence strike up into the heart of the Country I made some inquiry concerning their getting Gold and was told that none but Mahometans were permitted to go to the Mines That it was both troublesom and dangerous to pass the Mountains before they came thither there being but one way and that over such steep Mountains that in some places they were forced to make use of Ropes to climb up and down the Hills That at the foot of these Precipices there was a Guard of Soldiers to see that no uncircumcised person should pursue that design and also to receive custom of those that past either forward or backward That at the Mines it was so sickly that not the half of those that went thither did ever return again tho they went thither only to Traffick with the Miners who live there being seasoned that these who go thither from the City stayed not usually above 4 months at the Mines and were back again in about 6 Months from their going out That some there made it their constant imployment to visit the Miners once every year for after they are once seasoned and have found the profit of that Trade no thoughts of danger can deter them from it for I was credibly told that these made 2000 per cent of whatever they carreid with them to sell to the Miners but they could not carry much by reason of the badness of the ways The rich men never go thither themselves but send their Slaves and if 3 out of 6 returns they think they make a very profitable iourney for their Master for these 3 are able to bring home as much Gold as the Goods which all 6 carried out could purchase The Goods that they carry thither are some sort of cloathing and liquor They carry their Goods from the City by Sea part of the way Then they land somewhere about Passange-Jonca and get Horses to carry their Cargo to the foot of the Mountains There they draw it up with Ropes and if they have much goods one stays there with them while the rest march to the Mines with their load and return again for the rest I had this relation from Captain Tiler who lived at Achin and spoke the Language of the Country very well There was an English Renegado that used that trade but was always at the Mines when I was here At his Return to Achin he constantly frequented an English Punch-house spending his Gold very freely as I was told by the Master of the house I was told also by all that I discoursed with about the Gold that here they dig it out of the Ground and that sometimes they find pretty large lumps It is the product of these Mines that draws so many Merchants hither for the Road is seldom without 10 or 15 sail of Ships of several Nations These bring all sort of vendible Commodities as Silks Chints Muzlins Callicoes Rice c. and as to this last a man would admire to see what great quantities of Rice are brought hither by the English Dutch Danes and Chinese when any arrives the Commanders hire each a House to put their goods in The Silks Muzlins Callicoes Opium and such like rich Goods they sell to the Guzurats who are the chief men that keep Shops here but the Rice which is the bulk of the Cargo they usually retail I have heard a Merchant say he has received 60 70 and 80 l. a day for Rice when it has been scarce but when there are many sellers then 40 or 50 s. worth in a day is a good sale for then a Mess will buy 14 or 15 Bamboes of it whereas when Rice is scarce you will not have above 3 or 4 Bamboes for a Mess. A Bamboe is a small seal'd measure containing to the best of my remembrance not much above half a Gallon Thus it rises and falls as Ships come hither Those who sell Rice keep one constantly attending to measure it out and the very Grandees themselves never keep a stock before hand but depend on the Market and buy just when they have occasion They send their Slaves for what they want and the poorer sort who have not a Slave of their own will yet hire one to carry a Mess worth of Rice for them tho not one hundred paces from their own homes scorning to do it themselves Besides one to measure the Rice the Merchants hire a man to take the money for here is some false Money as Silver and Copper Mess gilt over Besides here are some true Mess much worn and therefore not worth near their value in tale The Merchants may also have occasion to receive 10 or 20 l. at a time for other Commodities and this too besides those little summs for Rice he must receive by his Broker if he will not be cheated for 't is work enough to examin every piece and in receiving the value of 10 l. in Mess they will ordinarily be forc'd to return half or more to be chang'd for the Natives are for putting off bad Money if possibly they can But if the Broker takes any bad Money 't is to his own loss These sort of Brokers are commonly Guzurats and 't is very necessary for a Merchant that comes hither especially if he is a stranger to have one of them for fear of taking bad or light Money The English Merchants are very welcome here and I have heard that they do not pay so much Custom as other Nations The Dutch Free-men may trade hither but the Company 's Servants are deny'd that
her again The Moors Merchants had speedy notice of this action of Captain Thwait and they presently made their Application to the Queen for satisfaction But her affairs at this time being in such posture as I mentioned by reason of their intestine Broyls she said she could do nothing for them It was 11 or 12 a Clock the next day before we who lived ashore heard of Captain Thwaits proceedings but seeing the Moors flock to Court and not knowing what answer they had from the Queen we posted off to the Ships for fear of being imprisoned as some English men had been while I was at Tonquin on the like score Indeed I had at this time great cause to be afraid of a Prison being sick of a flux So that a Prison would have gone near to have killed me yet I think it fared not much better with me for the Ships I fled to afforded me but little comfort For I knew no man aboard the Dorothy and could expect no comfort there So I and the rest went aboard the Nelligree where we could more reasonably expect relief than in a Ship that came from England for these which come so long a Voyage are just victualled for the Service and the Seamen have every one their stinted allowance out of which they have little enough to spare to Strangers But tho there were Victuals enough aboard the Nellegree yet so weak as I then was I had more mind to rest my self than to eat and the Ship was so pestered with Goods that I could not find a place to hang up my Hammock in Therefore it being fair weather I made a shift to lye in the Boat that I came aboard in My Flux was violent and I sleept but little so I had the opportunity of observing the Moon totally Eclipsed had I been in a condition to observe any thing As soon as I perceiv'd the Moon to be Eclipsed I gazed at it indeed as I lay till it was totally obscured which was a pretty while but I was so little curious that I remembred not so much as what day of the Month it was and I kept no Journal of this Voyage as I did of my other but only kept an account of several particular Remarks and Observations as they occurred to me I lay 3 or 4 days thus in this Boat and the people of the Ship were so kind as to provide me with necessaries and by this time the Moors had got a Pass from the Dutch Captain then in the Road for 4 or 500 Dollars as I was then told and Captain Thwait delivered them their Ship again but what terms he made with them I know not Thus that fray was over and we came ashore again recovered of the fright we had been in In a short time also after this the Achinese all agreed to own the new Queen and so the War ended without any Bloodshed I was perswaded to wash in the River Mornings and Evenings for the recovery of my Health and tho it seemed strange to me before I tryed it yet I found so much comfort in the first trial that I constantly applyed my self to it I went into the River till the water was as high as my waste and then I stooped down and sound the water so cool and refreshing to my body that I was always loth to go out again Then I was sensible that my Bowels were very hot for I found a great heat within me which I found refresht by the cool water My food was Salt fish broyled and boyled Rice mixt with Tire Tire is sold about the Streets there 't is thick sower Milk It is very cooling and the Salt-fish and Rice is binding therefore this is thought there the proper food for the common People when they have Fluxes But the Richer sort will have Sago which is brought to Achin from other Countries and Milk of Almonds But to return to the state of Achin before I go off from it I shall add this short account of the Seasons of year there that their weather is much the same as in other Countries North of the Line and their dry Seasons Rains and Land floods come much at the same time as at Tonquin and other places of North Latitude Only as Achin lies within a few Degrees of the Line so upon the Suns crossing the Line in March the Rains begin a little sooner there than in Countries nearer the Tropick of Cancer and when they are once set in they are as violent there as any where I have seen it Rain there for 2 or 3 days without intermission and the River running but a short course its head not lying very far within Land it soon overflows and a great part of the Street of the City shall on a sudden be all under water at which time people row up and down the Streets in Canoas That side of the City towards the River especially where the Fo eign Merchants live and which is lower ground is frequently under water in the Wet Season a Ships Longboat has come up to the very Gate of our English Factory laden with Goods which at other times is ground dry enough at a good distance from the River and moderately raised above it I did not find the heat there any thing different from other places in that Latitude tho I was there both in the wet and dry Season 'T is more supportable than at Tonquin and they have constantly the Refreshment of Sea and Land Breezes every 24 hours CHAP VIII The A. prepares to go for Pegu. Among others a Ship arrives here from Merga in Siam Of the Massacre of the English there His intended Cargo for Pegu. The Arrival of other English men from the City of Siam The A. sets out for Malacca instead of Pegu. They are becalmed and soon after in great danger of running aground The Coast of Sumatra from Diamond point to the R. Dilly They water there and at Pulo Verero where they meet a Ship of Danes and Moors from Trangambar Pulo Arii and Pulo Parselore a useful Sea-mark to avoid Sholes near Malacca Shore The A. arrives at Malacca Town The Town and its Forts described the Conquest of it by the Dutch from the Portuguese Chinese and other Merchants residing here The Sale of Flesh and Fish the Fruits and Animals The Shabander State of the Trade and Guardships Opium a good Commodity among the Malayans Rattan Cables They prepare for their Return back to Achin AS soon as I was pretty well recovered I was Shipt Mate of the Sloop that came from Malacca with us which Mr Wells had sold to Captain Tyler who lately come from Siam and I was sent aboard to take possession of her about the beginning of May 1689. He who was designed to mand her came to Achin Mate of the Nellegree and we were now to go to Pegu but before the middle of June he left the employ being sick and loth to go at this dead time of the year to
neither would they speak with us tho we made signs for them to stay We weighed also and jogg'd on after them but they sailed better than we We met little winds and calms so that 't was 7 or 8 days before we got as far as Diamond-point which is about 40 leagues from Achin Being about 4 leagues short off that point Captain Minchin desired me to set the Land and withal prick the Card and see what course we ought to keep all night for it was now about 6 a clock and we had a fine gale at W. S. W. our course yet being E. S. E. After I had set the Land I went into the Cabbin to look over the Draught to see what course we must steer after we came about the point Mr Coventry followed me and when I had satisfied my self he asked me what course we must steer I told him E. S. E. till 12 a clock if the gale stood and then we might hale more Southerly He seemed to be startled at it and told me that the Captain and he had been pricking the Card and thought that a S. E. or S. E. by S. course would do well at 8 a clock I said it was a good course to run ashore he argued a long time with me but I persisted in my opinion and when I told Captain Minchin of my opinion he was well satisfied Presently after this we had a pretty strong Tornado out of the S. W. which obliged us to hand our Top-sail When the stress of the Weather was over we set our Sails again and went in to Supper and ordered the man at Helm not to come to the Southward of the E. S. E. We stayed in the Cabbin till about 8 a clock and then we came out to set the Watch. It was now very dark by reason of a Thunder cloud that hung rumbling over the Land yet by the flashes of lightning we plainly saw the Land right ahead of us I was much surprized and ran into the Steeridge to look on the Compass and found that we were steering S. S. E. instead of E. S. E. I clapt the Helm a Starboard and brought her to N. E. by E. and N. E. we very narrowly escap'd being cast away When we first went to Supper we were 3 leagues off Land and then E. S. E. was a good course the Land lying E. S. E. parallel with our course But then the Man at Helm mistaking him Compass steer'd S. S. E. which runs right in upon the Shore I believe we had also some counter-current or Tide that help'd us in for we were quickly got into a Bay within the points of Land So that 't was now absolutely necessary to steer Northerly to get out of the Bay and by this time Mr Coventry was satisfied with what I told him in the Evening and was convinced of his error I undertook to direct the man at helm and the wind continuing I kept off till ten a Clock then I steered E. S. E. till 12 and then haled up S. S. E. and in the morning we were about 4 leagues S. E. from Diamond point and about 3 leagues to the North of an Island The Land from hence lying S. S. E. we steered so but meeting with calms again we anchored several times before we came to the River of Dilly which is 28 leagues from Diamond-point The Land between seems to be uneven most of it pretty high and very woody and 't is said that all this Country as far as the River Dilly is under the Queen of Achin About a League before we came to that River being within 2 mile of the Shore we saw the water of a muddy grey colour and tasting it found it to be sweet Therefore we presently filled some of our Water Cask and 't is an ordinary thing in several places to take up fresh water at Sea against the mouth of some River where it floats above the Salt water but we must dip but a little way down for sometimes if the Bucket goes but a foot deep it takes up Salt water with the fresh In the evening we had a fine Land Breeze with with which we ran along the Shore keeping on a wind and sounding every now and then At last we were got among the Sholes at the mouth of that River and puzzled to get our again The River is in Lat. 3 d. 50 m. N. It seems to be very large but it is not well known but only to the Natives who inhabit it and they are not very sociable but are by report a sort of Pirats living on rapin In the Morning we saw a sail standing off to an Island called Pulo Verero lying in Lat 3 d. 30 m. N. 7 Leagues from the Mouth of the River Dilly We having a fair wind stood after them intending there to wood and water at Pulo Verero For tho we took no fresh Water the evening before out of the Sea yet at the R. of Dilly it was brackish for tho the fresh water is born up by the Salt and it might be intire without mixture yet by plunging of the Bucket somewhat too low we might probably take up some of the Salt water with it They came to an Anchor about 2 or 3 a clock in the Afternoon but the Wind slackened and it was 8 Clock at night before we came thither We Anchored about a mile from them and presently hoysed out our Boat to go aboard for we judged that this was the Danish Ship that we saw when we came first from Achin I went in the Boat because Mr Coventry told me that Mr Coppenger was Surgeon of her the same person who was with me in the Boat when I was set ashore at the Nicobar Isles but was not suffered to stay with me Mr Coventry was now in the Boat with me and we went and haled the Ship asking whence she came and who was Commander They answered they were Danes from Trangambar for 't was the Ship we took it to be Then they askt who we were I answered English from Achin and that Mr Coventry was in the Boat but they would not believe it till Mr. Coventry spoke and the Captain knew his Voice neither did they till then believe we were Friends for they had every man his Gun in his hand ready to fire on us if we had gone aboard without haling as Mr. Coventry would have done in confidence that they knew him had not I disswaded him For it seems they were extreamly afraid of us insomuch that the Commander seeing us follow them in the morning would not have touched at these Islands tho he was in great want of Water and had not his black Merchants fallen before him on their Knees and even prayed him to take pity on them they had not anchored here These Merchants were inhabitants of Trangambar on the Coast of Coromandel They having no Ships of their own when the Danes fit out a Ship on any Voyage that they are inclined
Then we weighed again having a small land Wind but the Tyde of flood was against us and drove us to the Eastward When the Ebb came we jogged on and got about 3 leagues anchoring when the Flood came because the Winds were against us Thus we continued plying with the Ebb and anchoring every flood till we came to Pulo Parsalore where the Captain told me he would not go out the same way we came in as I would have perswaded him but kept the Malacca Shore aboard and past within the Sholes But in a few Hours after we ran upon a Shole driven on it by the Tide of Flood which here set to the Eastward tho by our Reckoning it should have been half Ebb and the Flood should have set Westward as we had it all the rest of the way from Malacca but the Sholes probably caused some whirling about of the Tide However the Sand we were struck upon was not above an 100 yards in circumference and the flood being rising we waited the time of high water and then drove over it having sent our Boat to discover how the Sholes lay while our Ship was aground Mr Richards all the while being in great fear lest the Malayans should come off in their Boats and attack the Vessel We were now afloat again and soon got without all the Sholes yet we did not stand over towards Sumatra but coasted along nearest the Malacca shore it being now most proper for us so to do yet for having the winds Westerly we could not have beat under the other shore 2 or 3 days after this we had sight of some Islands called Pulo Sambilong which in the Malayan Language signifies nine Islands there being so many of them lying scattering at unequal distances from each other It was near one of these Islands that Captain Minchin in a former Voyage was like to lose his hand by a prick with a Cat fishes Fin as I have said in my former Vol. p. 149. and tho his hand was cured yet he has lost the use of it ever since and is never likely to regain it more We stood in pretty near the shore in hopes to gain a fresh Land Wind. About 10 a Clock the Land Wind came off a gentle breez and we coasted along shore But a small Tornado coming off from the shore about midnight we broke our Mizen yard and being near a Dutch Island called Pulo Dinding we made in for it and anchored there the night ensuing and found there a Dutch Sloop mann'd with about 30 Soldiers at an anchor This is a small Island lying so nigh the main that Ships passing by cannot know it to be an Island It is pretty high Land and well watered with Brooks The mold is blackish deep and fat in the lower ground but the Hills are somewhat Rocky yet in general very woody The Trees are of divers sorts many of which are good Timber and large enough for any use Here are also some good for Masts and Yards they being naturally light yet tough and serviceable There s good riding on the East side between the Island and the Main You may come in with the Sea breeze and go out with a Land wind there is water enough and a secure Harbour The Dutch who are the only Inhabitants have a Fort on the East side close by the Sea in a bending of the Island which makes a small Cove for Ships to anchor in The Fort is built 4 square without Flankers or Bastions like a house every square is about 10 or 12 yards The Walls are of a good thickness made of stone and carried up to a good heighth of about 30 foot and covered over head like a dwelling House There may be about 12 or 14 Gnns in it some looking out at every square These Guns are mounted on a strong Platform made within the Walls about 16 Foot high and there are steps on the outside to ascend to the Door that opens to the Platform there being no other way into the Fort. Here is a Governour and about 20 or 30 Souldiers who all lodge in the Fort. The Soldiers have their lodging in the Platform among the Guns but the Governour has a fair Chamber above it where he lies with some of the Officers About a hundred yards from the Fort on the Bay by the Sea there is a low timbered House where the Governour abides all the day time In this House there were two or three Rooms for their use but the chiefest was the Governours Dining Room This fronted to the Sea and the end of it looked towards the Fort. There were two large Windows of about 7 or 8 foot square the lower part of them about 4 or 5 foot from the ground These Windows were wont to be left open all the day to let in the refreshing breeze but in the night when the Governour withdrew to the Fort they were closed with strong shutters and the Doors made fast till the next day The Continent of Malacca opposite to the Island is pretty low champion Land cloathed with lofty Woods and right against the Bay where the Dutch Fort stands there is a navigable River for small craft The product of the Country thereabouts besides Rice and other eatables is Tutaneg a sort of Tin I think courser than ours The Natives are Malayans who as I have always observed are bold and treacherous yet the trading people are affable and courteous to Merchants These are in all respects as to their Religion Custom and manner of Living like other Malayans Whether they are governed by a King or Raja or what other manner of Government they live under I know not They have Canoas and Boats of their own and with these they fish and traffick among themselves but the Tin Trade is that which has formerly drawn Merchant Strangers thither But tho the Country might probably yield great quantities of this metal and the Natives are not only inclinable but very desirous to trade with Strangers yet are they now restrained by the Dutch who have monopoliz'd that Trade to themselves It was probably for the lucre of this Trade that the Dutch built the Fort on the Island but this not wholly answering their ends by reason of the distance between it and the Rivers mouth which is about 4 or 5 miles they have also a Guardship commonly lying here and a Sloop with 20 or 30 armed men to hinder other Nations from this Trade For this Tutaneg or Tin is a valuable Commodity in the Bay of Bengal and here purchased reasonably by giving other Commodities in exchange neither is this Commodity peculiarly found hereabouts but farther Northerly also on the Coast and particularly in the Kingdom of Queda there is much of it The Dutch also commonly keep a Guardship and have made some fruitless essays to bring that Prince and his Subjects to trade only with them but here over against P. Dinding no strangers dare approach to trade neither may any Ship
we saw two sail about 3 Leagues to Wind-ward coming directly towards us the Captain supposing that they had been Jamaica Vessels would have layn by to hear some News and to get some Liquor from them for we had now none on Board but a few Bottles in a small Case that the Captain reserved for his own drinking But Wooders withstood the Captains Proposal and told him that when he came from Campeachy there were two small Vessells ready to sail for Tobasco River which is not above 11 or 12 Leagues to Leeward of Trist and that it was more probable these were those two Vessells than any from Jamaica Upon this we edged off more to Sea and they also altered their Course steering away still directly with us so that we were now assured they were Spaniards and therefore we put away Quartering and steering N. W. and though they still fetch'd on us a-pace yet to make the more speed they turned a Boat loose that was Tow at one of their Sterns and she being a good Sailer came within Gun-shot of us when as it pleased God the Land-Wind dyed away of a sudden and the Sea-Breez did not yet spring up While the Wind lasted we thought our selves but a degree from Prisoners neither had we yet great hopes of escaping for our Ketch even when light was but a dull Sailer worse being deep loaden However we had now time to unbend the Foresail and make a studding Sail of it to put right before the Sea-Breez when it should spring up This was accordingly done in a trice and in less than an hour after the Breez sprung up fresh and we put right before the Wind. We had this advantage in it that all the Sail we had did us Service While on the contrary those who chased us being three Mast Vessels could not bring all theirs to draw for their after Sails becalmed their Head-sails and we held them tack for two or three Hours neither gaining nor loosing ground At last the Wind freshing on by the coming of a Tornado we gained considerably of them so they fired a Gun and left their Chace but we kept on crouding till Night and then clap'd on a Wind again and saw no more of them In about a Fortnight after this we were got as far to the East as Rio de la Gartos and there overtook us a small Barmudoes Boat belonging to Jamaica which had not been above 10 Days come from Trist but sailed much better than we did Therefore our Merchant went on Board of Her for he saw we were like to have a long Passage and Provision began to be scarce already which he could not so well brook as we Our Course lay all along against the Trade-Wind All the hopes that we had was a good North this being the only time of the Year for it and soon after we saw a black Cloud in the N. W. which is a sign of a North but of this more in my Discourse of Winds for two Days Morning and Evening The third day it rose a-pace and came away very swiftly We presently provided to receive it by furling all but our Main-sail intending with that to take the advantage of it Yet this did us but little Service for after an Hours time in which it blew fresh at N. W. the Cloud went away and the Wind came about again at E. N. E. the usual Trade in these Parts We therefore made use of the Sea and Land-Breezes as we had done before and being now as high as the before-mentioned Fishing Banks on the North of Jucatan we so ordered our Business that with the Land-Winds we run over to the Banks and while it was calm between the Land-Winds and Sea-Breez we put out our Hooks and Lines and fished and got plenty every Morning One time our Captain after he had hal'd in a good fish being eager at his sport and throwing out his Line too hastily the Hook hitched in the Palm of his Hand and the weight of the Lead that was thrown with a jerk and hung about 6 Foot from the Hook forced the beard quite through that it appear'd at the back of his Hand Soon after this we got as high as the Mount and then stood off about 30 Leagues from Land in hopes to get better to Wind-ward there than near the shore because the Wind was at E. S. E. and S. E. by E. a fresh gale continuing so 2 or 3 days We steered off to the North expecting a Sea-Breez at E. N. E. and the third Day had our desire Then we tack'd and steered in again S. E. for the shore of Jucatan Our Ketch as I said was a heavy Sailer especially on a Wind for she was very short and having great round Bows when we met a Head-Sea as now she plunged and laboured not going a Head but tumbling like an Egg-shell in the Sea It was my fortune to be at the Helm from 6 a Clock in the Evening till 8. The first 2 Glasses she steered very ill for every Sea would strike her dead like a Log then she would fall off 2 or 3 Points from the Wind though the Helm was a-Lee and as she recovered and made a little way she would come again to the Wind till another Sea struck her off again By that time 3 Glasses were out the Sea became more smooth and then she steered very well and made pretty fresh way through the Water I was somewhat surprized at the sudden Change from a rough Sea to a smooth and therefore look'd over Board 2 or 3 times for she steered open on the Deck and it being very fair Weather all our Men were layn down on the Deck and fallen asleep My Captain was just behind me on the Quarter Deck fast asleep too for neither he nor they dreaded any danger we being about 30 Leagues from the main-Main-Land at Noon and as we thought not near any Island But while I was musing on the sudden alteration of the Sea our Vessel struck on a Rock with such force that the Whipstaff threw me down on my back This frighted me so much that I cryed out and bad them all turn out for the Ship struck The surge that the Ship made on the Rock awakened most of our Men and made them ask What the matter was But her striking a second time soon answered the Question and set us all to work for our Lives By good fortune she did not stick but kept on her way still and to our great comfort the Water was very smooth otherwise we must certainly have been lost for we very plainly saw the ground under us so we let go our Anchor in 2 Fathom Water clean White Sand When our Sails were furled and a sufficient scope of Cable veered out our Captain being yet in amaze went into his Cabin and most of us with him to view his draught and we soon found we were fallen foul of the Alcranes The Alcranes are 5 or 6 low sandy
anchored on the North side of one of the sandy Islands the most convenient Place for his design Having got ashore his Cask to put his Oyl in and set up a Tent for lodging himself and his Goods he began to kill the Seal and had not wrought above three or four Days before a fierce North-wind blew his Bark ashore By good fortune she was not damnified but his company being but small and so despairing of setting her afloat again they fell to contriving how to get away a very difficult Task to accomplish for it was 24 or 25 Leagues to the nearest Place of the Main and above 100 Leagues to Trist which was the next English settlement But contrary to their expectation instead of that Captain Long bid them follow their Work of Seal-killing and making Oyl assuring them that he would undertake at his own peril to carry them safe to Trist. This though it went much against the grain yet at last he so far prevailed by fair Words that they were contented to go on with their Seal-killing till they had filled all their Cask But their greatest work was yet to do viz. how they should get over to the Main and then Coast down before the Wind to Trist. Their Boat was not big enough to transport them so they concluded to cut down the Barks Masts and rip up her Deck to make a float for that purpose This being agreed on the next Morning betimes pursuant to their Resolution they were going to break up their Vessel but it happened that very Night that two New-England Ketches going down to Trist ran on the backside of the Riff where they struck on the Rocks and were bulged And Captain Long and his Crew seeing them in Distress presently took their Boat and went off to help them unlade their Goods and bring them ashore and in requital they furnished the Captain with such tackle and other Necessaries as he wanted and assisted him in the launching his Vessel and lading his Oyl and so they went merrily away for Trist This lucky accident was much talk'd of amongst the C's Crew and so exasperated the New-England Men when they heard the whole story that they were thinking if their Commanders would have suffered them to have thrown him into the Sea to prevent his doing more mischief For they were sure that he by his Art had caused them to run aground The whole of this Relation I had from Captain Long himself From the main to these Islands the Sea deepens gradually till you come to about 30 Fathom Water and when you are 25 or 26 Leagues off shore to the Eastward of them if you steer away West keeping in that depth you cannot miss them The same Rule is to be observed to find any other Island as the Triangles the Isles Des Arenas c. for the Bank runs all along the shore on which are Soundings of equal depth and the Sea appears of a muddy palish Colour but when past the Bank on the North side of it it resumes its natural greeness and is too deep for any Sounding till you are within 30 Leagues of the North side of the Bay of Mexico where by relation there is such another Bank abounding with Oysters running all along the shore But to return to our Voyage Having spent 2 or 3 days among the Alcranes Islands we set sail again and steering in Southerly for the Main having the Wind at E. N. E. we fell in with it a little to Leeward of Cape Catoch plying under the shore till we reach'd the Cape from thence we continued our Course Northerly the Wind at E. by S. The next Land we designed for was Cape Antonio which is the Westermost Point of the Island Cuba and distant from Cape Catoch about 40 Leagues Some when they sail out of the Bay keep along by the Land of Jucatan till they come as far as the Island Cozumel and from thence stretch over towards Cuba and if the Wind favours them any thing they will get as high as Cape Corientes before they fall in with Cuba for in their Passage from thence they are not in so much danger of being hurried away to the North by the Current between the two Capes or to the North of them as we were For taking our Course Northward till the Lat. of 22 d. 30 m. we tack'd again and the Wind at E. steered away S. S. E. 24 hours and having taken an Observation of the Sun as we did the day before found our selves in 23 d. being driven backwards in 24 hours 30 Miles We had then the Channel open between the two Capes but to the North of either Yet at last we got over to the Cuba shore and fell in with the North of the Island about 7 or 8 Leagues from Cape Antonio Now we both saw and ran thro' some of the Colorado Sholes but found a very good Channel among a great many Rocks that appeared above Water Being thus got within the Sholes between them and Cuba we found a pretty wide clear Channel and good Anchoring and advancing further within a League of the Cape we Anchored and went ashore to get Water but found none In the Evening when the Land-wind sprung up we weighed again and doubling the Cape coasted along on the South side of the Island taking the Advantages both of Sea and Land-winds For though we had now been about two Months from Trist and this the time of the Year for Norths yet to our great trouble they had hitherto failed us and besides as I said before our Ketch was such a Leewardly Vessel that we did not yet expect we could possibly reach Jamaica meerly by turning though sometimes assisted by Sea and Land-Winds In about a Week after this we got up with and coasted along the Isle of Pines for 7 or 8 Leagues and then stood off to Sea and the third Morning fell in with the West end of grand Caymanes This Island is about 40 Leagues South from Pines and about 15 to the West of little Caymanes we anchored at the West end about half a Mile from the shore We found no Water nor any Provision but saw many Crocodiles on the Bay some of which would scarce stir out of the way for us We kill'd none of them which we might easily have done though Food began to be short withus indeed had it been in the Months of June or July we might probably have gotten Turtle for they frequent this Island some Years as much as they do little Caymanes We stayed here but 3 or 4 hours and steered back for Pines intending there to hunt for Beef or Hog of both which there is in great plenty The second day in the Morning we fell in with the West end of Pines and running about 4 or 5 Miles Northward we anchored in 4 Fathom Water clean Sand about two Mile from the shore and right-against a small Creek through the Mangroves into a wide Lagune The Isle of
for by all likelihood we were not so far from the Island but that we might have seen it had it been clear and that the hanging of the Clouds seemed to indicate to us that the Land was obscured by them Some of them did acquiesce with me in my Opinion however 't was agreed to put away for the South Keys and accordingly we veered out our Sheets trimm'd our Sails and steered away N. N. W. I was so much dis-satisfied that I turned into my Cabbin and told them we should be all starved I could not sleep tho' I lay down for I was very much troubled to think of Fasting 3 or 4 Days or a Week having fared very hard already Indeed 't was by meer accident that our Food lasted so long for we carried two Barrels of Beef out with us to sell but 't was so bad that none would buy it which proved well for us for after our own Stock was spent this supplied us We boyled every day two Pieces of it and because our Pease were all eaten and our Flower almost spent we cut our Beef in small bits after 't was boiled and boiled it again in Water thickned with a little Flower and so eat it all together with Spoons The little Pieces of Beef were like Plums in our Hodg-podg Indeed 't was not fit to be eaten any other way for tho' it did not stink yet it was very unsavory and black without the least sign of Fat in it Bread and Flower being scarce with us we could not make Dough-boys to eat with it But to proceed I had not layn in my Cabbin above three Glasses before one on the Deck cryed out Land Land I was very glad at the News and we all immediately discerned it very plain The first that we saw was High-land which we knew to be Blewfields-Hill by a Bending or Saddle on the Top with two small Heads on each Side It bore N. E. by E. and we had the Wind at E. therefore we presently clap'd on a Wind and steered in N. N. E. and soon after we saw all the Coast being not above five or six Leagues from it We kept jogging in all the Afternoon not striving to get in to any particular place but where we could fetch there we were resolved to Anchor The next day being pretty near the shore between Blewfields-Point and Point Nigril and having the Wind large enough to fetch the latter we steered away directly thither and seeing a small Vessel about two Leagues N. W. of us making signs to speak with us by hoysing and lowring her Topsails we were afraid of her and edged in nearer the shore and about three a Clock in the Afternoon to our great joy we anchored at Nigrill having been 13 Weeks on our Passage I think never any Vessel before nor since made such Traverses in coming out of the Bay as we did having first blundred over the Alcrany Riff and then visited those Islands from thence fell in among the Colorado Shoals afterward made a trip to Grand Caymanes and lastly visited Pines tho' to no purpose In all these Rambles we got as much experience as if we had been sent out on a design As soon as we came to Anchor we sent our Boat ashore to buy Provisions to regale our selves after our long fatigue and fasting and were very busie going to drink a Bowl of Punch when unexpectedly Capt. Rawlins Commander of a small New-England Vessel that we left at Trist and one Mr. John Hooker who had been in the Bay a twelve Month cutting Logwood and was now coming up to Jamaica to sell it came aboard and were invited into the Cabbin to drink with us the Bowl had not yet been touch'd I think there might be six Quarts in it but Mr. Hooker being drunk to by Captain Rawlins who pledg'd Capt. Hudswell and having the Bowl in his hand said That he was under an Oath to drink but three Draughts of strong Liquor a Day and putting the Bowl to his Head turn'd it off at one Draught and so making himself drunk disappointed us of our Expectations till we made another Bowl The next day having a brisk N. W. Wind which was a kind of a Chocolatta North we arrived at Port-Royal and so ended this troublesom Voyage CHAP. II. The Author's second Voyage to the Bay of Campeachy His arrival at the Isle of Trist and setling with the Logwood-Cutters A Description of the Coast from Cape Condecedo to Trist. Salinas or Salt Ponds Salt gathered for the Spaniards by the Indians Hina a remarkable Hill Horse-hoof-fish The Triangle Islands Campeachy Town twice taken It s chief Trade Cotton Champeton River and its Logwood a rich Commodity Port-Royal Harbour and Island Prickly-Grass Sapadillo Trees Trist Island described Coco-Plum-bushes The Grape-Tree Its Animals Lizards Laguna Termina and its strong Tides Summasenta River and Chucquebull Town Serles his Key Captain Serles his Adventure The East and West Lagunes with their Branches inhabited by Logwood-Cutters Oaks growing there and no where else within the Tropicks The Original of the Logwood-Trade The Rainy Season and great Floods occasioned by Norths The dry Season Wild Pine-Plant The Logwood-Tree Blood-Wood Stock Fish-Wood and Camwood A Description of some Animals Squashes large long-tail'd Monkies Ant-bears Sloths Armadillos Tigre Catts Snakes of three sorts Calliwasps Huge Spiders Great Ants and their Nests Rambling Ants Humming Birds Black-Birds Turtle Doves Quams Corresos Carrion Crows Subtle Jacks Bill-Birds Cockrecos Ducks of several sorts Curlews Herons Crabcatchers Pelicans Cormorants Fishing Hawks Several sorts of Fish Tenpounders Parricootas Garr-Fish Spanish Mackril The Ray Alligators Crocodiles how they differ from Alligators A narrow escape of an Irish-man from an Alligator IT was not long after our Arrival at Port-Royal before we were pay'd off and discharged Now Captain Johnson of New-England being bound again into the Bay of Campeachy I took the opportunity of going a Passenger with him being resolved to spend some time at the Logwood-Trade and accordingly provided such Necessaries as were required about it viz. Hatchets Axes Macheats i. e. Long Knives Saws Wedges c. a Pavillion to sleep in a Gun with Powder and shot c. and leaving a Letter of Attorney with Mr. Fleming a Merchant of Port-Royal as well to dispose of any thing that I should send up to him as to remit to me what I should order I took leave of my Friends and Imbarked About the middle of Feb. 75 6. We sailed from Jamaica and with a fair Wind and Weather soon got as far as Cape Catoch and there met a pretty strong North which lasted two days After that the Trade settled again at E. N. E. which speedily carryed us to Trist Island In a little time I setled my self in the West Creek of the West Lagune with some old Logwood-Cutters to follow the Employment with them But I shall proceed no farther with the Relation of my own Affairs till I have given a description of the
observed his Method in curing the Horse which was this First he strok'd the sore Place then applying to it a little rough Powder which looked like Tobacco Leaves dryed and crumbled small mumbling some Words to himself he blew upon the part three times and waving his Hands as often over it said it would be well speedily His Fee for the Cure was a White Cock Then coming to me and looking on the Worm in my Ancle he promised to cure it in three Days demanding also a White Cock for his pains and using exactly the same Method with me as he did with the Horse He bad me not open it in three Days but I did not stay so long for the next Morning the Cloath being rubb'd off I unbound it and found the Worm broken off and the Hole quite healed up I was afraid the remaining part would have given some trouble but have not felt any pain there from that day to this To return I told you how I was interrupted in following my Work by the Worms breeding in my Leg. And to compleat my misfortune presently after we had the most violent Storm for above 24 Hours that ever was known in these Parts An Account of which I shall give more particularly in my Discourse of Winds and shall now only mention some Passages I have already said we were four of us in Company at this Place cutting Logwood and by this Storm were reduced to great Inconveniencies for while that lasted we could dress no Victuals nor even now it was over unless we had done it in the Canoa for the highest Land near us was almost 3 Foot under Water besides our Provision too was most of it spoiled except the Beef and Pork which was but little the worse We had a good Canoa large enough to carry us all and seeing it in vain to stay here any longer we all embarked and rowed away to One-Bush-Key about 4 Leagues from our Huts There were 4 Ships riding here when the Storm began but at our arrival we found only one and hoped to have got some Refreshment from it but found very cold entertainment For we could neither get Bread nor Punch nor so much as a Dram of Rum though we offered them Money for it The Reason was they were already over-charged with such as being distressed by the Storm had been forced to take Sanctuary with them seeing we could not be supplied here we asked which way the other three Ships were driven they told us that Capt. Prout of New-England was driven towards Trist and 't was probable he was carried out to Sea unless he stuck on a Sand called the Middle Ground that Capt. Skinner of New-England was driven towards Beef-Island and Captain Chandler of London drove away towards Man-of-War Lagune Beef-Island lies North from One-Bush-Key but the other two Places lie a little on each side One to the East the other to the West So away we went for Beef-Island and coming within a League of it we saw a Flag in the Woods made fast to a Pole and placed on the Top of a high Tree And coming still nearer we at last saw a Ship in the Woods about 200 Yards from the Sea We rowed directly towards her and when we came to the Woods side found a pretty clear Passage made by the Ship through the Woods the Trees being all broke down And about three Foot Water Home to the Ship We rowed in with our Canoa and went Aboard and were kindly Entertained by the Seamen but the Captain was gone Aboard Captain Prout who stuck fast on the middle Ground before-mentioned Captain Prout's Ship was afterwards got off again but the Stumps of the Trees ran clear through the bottom of Captain Skinner's therefore there was no hope of saving her Here we got Victuals and Punch and stayed about two Hours in which time the Captain came Aboard and invited us to stay all Night But hearing some Guns fired in Man-of-War Lagune we concluded that Captain Chandler was there and wanted assistance Therefore we presently rowed away thither for we could do no Service here and before Night found him also stuck fast on a Point of Sand. The Head of his Ketch was dry and at the Stern there was above 4 Foot Water Our coming was very seasonable to Captain Chandler with whom we stayed two Days in which time we got out all his Goods carried off his Anchor c. and so not being able as yet to do him more Service we left him for the present and went away to hunt at Beef-Island At Trist were four Vessels riding before this Storm one of them was driven off to Sea and never heard of afterwards Another was cast dry upon the shore where she lay and was never got off again But the third rode it out Another was riding without the Bar of Trist and she put to Sea and got to New-England but much shattered About three days before this Storm began a small Vessel Commanded by Captain Vally went hence bound to Jamaica This Vessel was given for lost by all the Logwood-Cutters but about 4 Months after she returned thither again and the Captain said he felt nothing of the Storm but when he was about 30 Leagues to Wind-ward of Trist he had a fresh Summasenta-Wind that carried him as high as Cape Condecedo but all the time he saw very black Clouds to the Westward Beef-Island is about 7 Leagues long and 3 or 4 broad It lies in length East and West The East end looks toward the Island Trist and is low drowned Land and near the Sea produceth nothing but white and black Mangrove-Trees The North side lies open to the Main Sea running straight from East to West The Eastermost part for about three Leagues from Trist is Low and Mangrovy at the end of which there is a small salt Creek deep enough at high Water for Boats to pass From this Creek to the West end is 4 Leagues all sandy Bay closed on the backside with a low Sand-bank abounding with thick prickly Bushes like a White-thorn bearing a whitish hard Shell-Fruit as big as a Sloe much like a Calla-bash The West end is washed with the River St. Peter St. Paul This end is over-grown with red Mangroves About 3 Leagues up from the Mouth of this River shoots forth a small Branch running to the Eastward and dividing Beef-Island form the Main on the South and afterwards makes a great Lake of fresh Water called Fresh Water Lagune This afterward falls into a Salt Lake called Man-of-War Lagune which emptys it self into Laguna Termina about 2 Leagues from the S. E. Point of the Island The inside or middle of this Island is a Savannah bordered all round with Trees most Mangrovy either black white or red with some Logwood The South side between the Savannahs and the Mangroves is very rich Sometimes this Land lyes in Ridges higher than the Savannahs The Savannahs produce plenty of long Grass and the Ridges
great goggle Eyes and is very quick sighted It has a thick Neck and strong Legs but weak Footlocks The Hoofs of his Feet are Cloven in the middle And it has two small Hoofs above the Footlock which bending to the Ground when it goes make an Impression on the Sand like four Claws His Tail is short and tapering like a Swines without any Bob at the end This Beast is commonly fat and very good Meat It graseth ashore in wet swampy Ground near Rivers or Ponds but retires to the Water if pursued When they are in the Water they will sink down to the bottom and there walk as on dry Ground They will run almost as fast as a Man but if chased hard they will turn about and look very fierce like a Boar and fight if put to it The Natives of the Country have no Wars with these Creatures but we had many Conflicts with them both on Shore and in the Rivers and though we commonly got the better by killing some and routing the rest yet in the Water we durst not molest them after one Bout which had like to have proved fatal to 3 Men that went in a small Canoa to kill a single Sea-Horse in a River where was 8 or 10 Foot Water The Horse according to his Custom was marching in the bottom of the River and being espied by these Men they wounded him with a long Lance which so enraged the Beast that he rose up immediately and giving a fierce look he opened his Jaws and bit a great piece of the Gunnal or upper edge of the Canoa and was like to over-set it but presently sunk down again to the bottom and the Men made away as fast as they could for fear he should come again The West Branch of the River St. Peter St. Paul after it has run 8 or 9 Leagues N. W loseth it self in Tobasco River about 4 Leagues from the Sea and so makes the Island Tobasco which is 12 Leagues long and 4 broad at the North end for from the River St. Peter St. Paul to the mouth of Tobasco River is accounted 4 Leagues and the Shore lies East and West The first League on the East is mangrove-Mangrove-Land with some Sandy Bay where Turtle come ashore to lay their Eggs. The West part of it is Sandy Bay quite to the River Tobasco But because here is constantly a great Sea you have no good Landing till within the River The N. W. part of it is full of Guaver Trees of the greatest variety and their fruit the largest and best tasted I have met with and 't is really a very delicious place There are also some Coco-Plums and Grapes but not many The Savannahs here are naturally fenced with Groves of Guavers and produce good Grass for Pasture and are pretty well stock'd with fat Bullocks and I do believe it is from their eating the Guaver Fruit that these Trees are so thick For this fruit is full of small seeds which being swallowed whole by the Cattle are voided whole by them again and then taking root in their Dung spring up abundantly Here are also Deer in great numbers these we constantly find feeding in the Savannahs Mornings and Evenings And I remember an unlucky Accident whilst I was there Two or three Men went out one Evening purposely to hunt when they were in the spots of Savannahs they separated to find their Game and at last it so happened that one of them fired at a Deer and killed it and while he was skinning it he was shot stark dead by one of his Consorts who fired at him mistaking him for a Deer The poor Man was very sorry for so sad a mischance and for fear of the dead Man's Friends durst never go back again to Jamaica The River of Tobasco is the most noted in all the Bay of Campeachy and springs also from the high Mountains of Chiapo but much more to the Westward than that of St. Peter St. Paul From thence it runs N. E. till within 4 Leagues of the Sea where it receives the fore-mentioned Branch of St. Peter St. Paul and then runs North till it falls into the Sea Its Mouth is about two Miles wide and there is a Bar of Sand lying off it with not above 11 or 12 foot Water but a Mile or two within the Mouth at a nook or bending of the River on the East-side there is three Fathom and good Riding without any danger from the strength of the Current The Tide flows up about four Leagues in the dry Season but in the Rains not so far for then the Freshes make the Ebb run very strong During the Norths it over-flows all the low Land for 14 or 15 Leagues up the River and you may then take up fresh Water without the Bar. This River near its Mouth abounds with Cat-fish with some Snooks and Manatee in great plenty there being good feeding for them in many of its Creeks especially in one place on the Starbord side about 2 Leagues from the Sea which runs into the Land 2 or 300 paces and then opens very wide and is so shoal that you may see their backs above Water as they feed a thing so rare that I have heard our Musketo-men say they never saw it any where else On the least noise they will all scamper out into the River yet the Musketo-men seldom miss of striking them These are a sort of Fresh-water Manatee not altogether so big as the Sea kind but otherwise exactly alike in shape and tast and I think rather fatter The Land by the Rivers especially on tne Starbord side is swampy and over-grown with Trees Here are also abundance of Land-Turtle the largest that I ever saw till I came to the Gallapagos Islands in the S. Seas viz. Mangroves Macaws and other sorts that I know not In some places near the River side further up the Country are Ridges of dry Land full of lofty Cabbage and Cotton Trees which make a very pleasant Landskip There is no Settlement within 8 Leagues of the River's Mouth and then you come to a small Breast-work where there is commonly a Spaniard with 8 or 9 Indians posted on each side the River to watch for Boats coming that way And because there are divers Greeks running in from the Savannahs some of these Sentinels are so placed in the Woods that they may look into the Savannahs for fear of being surprized on the back side Yet for all their caution these Sentinels were snap'd by Captain Nevil Commander of a small Brigantine in a second Expedition that he made to take the Town called Villa de Mose His first Attempt miscarried by his being discovered But the second time he got into a Creek a League below these Sentinels and there dragging his Canoas over some Trees that were laid cross it purposely to hinder his passage he came in the night upon their backs in their several Posts so that the Town having no notice of his coming
care for Victuals till they come Home again This is called Posole And by the English Poorsoul It is so much esteemed by the Indians that they are never without some of it in their Houses Another way of Preparing their Drink is to parch the Maiz and then grind it to Powder on the Rubbing-stone putting a little Anatta to it which grows in their Plantations and is used by them for no other purpose They mix it all with Water and presently drink it off without straining In long Journeys they prefer this Drink before Posole They feed abundance of Turkies Ducks and Dunghill Fowls of which the Padre has an exact Account and is very strict in gathering his Tithe and they dare not kill any except they have his Leave for it They plant Cotton also for their Cloathing The Men wear only a short Jacket and Breeches These with a Palmeto Leaf Hat is their Sundays Dress for they have neither Stockings nor Shoes neither do they wear these Jackets on Week Days The Women have a Cotton-Peticoat and a large Frock down to their Knees the Sleeves to their Wrists but not gathered The Bosom is open to the Breast and Imbroidered with black or red Silk or Grogram Yarn two Inches broad on each side the Breast and clear round the Neck In this Garb with their Hair ty'd up in a Knot behind they think themselves extream fine The Men are obliged by the Padres as I have been inform'd to Marry when they are Fourteen Years old and the Women when Twelve And if at that Age they are not provided the Priest will chuse a Virgin for the Man or a Man for the Virgin of equal Birth and Fortune and joyn them together The Spaniards give several Reasons for this Imposition Viz. That it preserves them from Debauchery and makes them Industrious That it brings them to pay Taxes both to the King and Church for as soon as they are Married they pay to both And that it keeps them from rambling out of their own Parish and settling in another which would by so much lessen the Padres Profit They love each other very well and live comfortably by the sweat of their Brows They build good large Houses and inhabit altogether in Towns The side Walls are Mud or Watling plaister'd on the inside and thatch'd with Palm or Palmeto Leaves The Churches are large built much higher than the Common Houses and covered with Pantile and within adorned with Coarse Pictures and Images of Saints which are all painted tauny like the Indians themselves Besides these Ornaments there are kept in the Churches Pipes Hautboys Drums Vizards and Perruques for their Recreation at solemn Times for they have little or no Sport or Pastime but in Common and that only upon Saints Days and the Nights ensuing The Padres that serve here must learn the Indian Language before they can have a Benefice As for their Tithes and other Incoms Mr. Gage an English Man hath given a large Account of them in his Survey of the West Indies But however this I will add of my own knowledge that they are very dutiful to their Priests observing punctually their Orders and behave themselves very circumspectly and reverently in their Presence They are generally well shaped of a middle size streight and clean Limb'd The Men more spare the Women plump and fat their Faces are round and flat their Foreheads low their Eyes little their Noses of a mid'dle size somewhat flattish full Lips pretty full but little Mouths white Teeth and their Colour of a dark tauny like other Indians They sleep in Hammacks made with small Cords like a Net fastned at each end to a Post. Their Furniture is but mean Viz. Earthen Pots to boil their Maiz in and abundance of Callabashes They are a very harmless sort of People kind to any Strangers and even to the Spaniards by whom they are so much kept under that they are worse than Slaves nay the very Negroes will domineer over them and are countenanced to do so by the Spaniards This makes them very melancholly and thoughtful however they are very quiet and seem contented with their Condition if they can tolerably subsist But sometimes when they are imposed on beyond their Ability they will march off whole Towns Men Women and Children together as is before related CHAP. VI. The River of Checapeque The River of Dos Boccas The Towns up the Country Halpo Their Trade Old Hats a good Commodity A sad Accident in Hunting Tondelo River Musketos troublesom on this Coast. Guasickwalp River Teguantapeque River Few Gold Mines on all this part of the Sea-Coast Teguantapeque Town Keyhooca and its Cacao-Trade Vinellos Alvarado River and its Branches It s Fort Town and Trade Cod Pepper La Vera Cruz. The Fort of St. John d'Ulloa The Barra la Venta Fleet and their Navigation about the West India Coast. The Town of Tispo Panuk River and Town Lagune and Town of Tompeque Huniago Island It s Trade in Shrimps The Author's return to Logwood-Cutting at Trist. Captain Gibbs kill'd there by some Indians he brought from New-England The Author 's setting out to Jamaica and return for England HAving given the Reader an Account of the Indians inhabiting about the River of Tobasco I come next to describe the Western Coast of this Bay with its Rivers and other most remarkable Particulars From Tobasco River to the River Checapeque is 7 Leagues The Coast lies East and West all woody low Ground sandy Bay and good Anchoring but there falls in a pretty high Sea on the shore therefore but bad Landing yet Canoas may with care run in if the Men are ready to leap out as soon as she touches the Ground and then she must immediately be drag'd up out of the Surf And the same caution and dexterity is to be used when they go off again There is no fresh Water between Tobasco River and Checapeque This latter is rather a salt Creek than a River for the Mouth of it is not above 20 Paces wide and about 8 or 9 Foot Water on the Bar but within there is 12 or 13 Foot at low Water and good Riding for Barks half a Mile within the Mouth This Creek runs in E. S. E. about two Miles and then strikes away South up into the Country At its Mouth between it and the Sea is a bare sandy Point of Land Where on the side next the River close by the Brink of it and no where else you may scrape up the Sand which is course and brown with your Hands and get fresh Water but if you dig lower the Water will be salt Half a Mile within the Mouth when you are past the sandy Point the Land is wet and swampy bearing only Mangroves on each side for 4 or 5 Leagues up and after that firm Land where you will find a Run of fresh Water it being all salt till you come thither A League beyond this is a Beef Estantion or Farm
of Cattle belonging to an Indian Village In the Woods on each side this River there are plenty of Guanoes Land-Turtle and abundance of Quams and Corresos with some Parrots and there is no Settlement nearer than the Beef Estantion nor any thing else remarkable in this River that I know A League West from Checapeque there is another small River called Dos Boccas 't is only fit for Canoas to enter It has a Bar at its Mouth and therefore is somewhat dangerous Yet the Privateers make light of it for they will govern a Canoa very ingeniously However Captain Rives and Captain Hewet two Privateers lost several Men here in coming out for there had been a North which had raised the Bar and in going out most of their Canoas were over-set and some Men drowned This River wlll not float a Canoa above a League within its Mouth and so far is salt but there you meet with a fine clear Stream of fresh Water about a League up in the Country and beyond this are fair Savannahs of long Grass fenced in with Ridges of as rich Land as any in the World The Mold such as is formerly described all plain and level even to the Hills of Chiapo There are no Indian Towns within 4 or 5 Leagues of the Sea but further off they are pretty thick lying within a League 2 or 3 one of another Halpo is the chiefest The Indians make use of no more Land than serves to maintain their Families in Maiz and to pay their Taxes And therefore between the Towns it lies uncultivated In all this Country they rear abundance of Poultry Viz. Turkies Ducks and Dunghil Fowls but some of them have Cacao-Walks The Cacao of these Parts is most of it sent to Villa de Mose and ship'd off there Some of it is sold to Carriers that travail with Mules coming hither commonly in Nov. or Dec. and staying till Febr. or March They lye a Fortnight at a time in a Village to dispose of their Goods which are commonly Hatchets Macheats Axes Hoes Knives Cizars Needles Thread Silk for sowing Womens Frocks small Looking-glasses Beads Silver or Copper Rings wash'd with Gold set with Glass instead of Stones small Pictures of Saints and such like Toys for the Indians And for the Spaniards Linnen and Woollen Cloaths Silks Stockings and old Hats new dress'd which are here very valuable and worn by those of the best Quality so that an old English Beaver thus ordered would be worth 20 Dollars so much is Trade wanted here in this Country When he has sold off his Goods he is generally paid in Cacao which he carries to La Vera Cruz. From Dos Boccas to the River Palmas is 4 Leagues low Land and sandy Bay between From Palmas to the Halover is 2 Leagues The Halover is a small Neck of Land parting the Sea from a large Lagune It is so call'd by the Privateers because they use to drag their Canoas in and out there From the Halover to St. Anns is 6 Leagues St. Anns is a Mouth that opens the Lagune before mentioned there is not above 6 or 7 Foot Water yet Barks often go in there to Careen From St. Anns to Tondelo is 5 Leagues The Coast still West the Land low and sandy Bay against the Sea a little within which are pretty high Sand-Banks cloathed with prickly Bushes such as I have already described at Beef-Island Against the Sea near the West end within the Sand Bank the Land is lower again the Woods not very high and some spots of Savannahs with plenty of fat Bullocks In Hunting of which a Frenchman unhappily lost his Life For his Company being stragled from him to find Game he unluckily met a Drove of Cattle flying from them in the Woods which were so thick that there was no passing but in these very narrow Paths that the Cattle themselves had made so that not being able to get out of their way the foremost of the Drove thrust his Horns into his Back and carried him a 100 Paces into the Savannah where he fell down with his Guts trailing on the Ground The River Tondeloe is but narrow yet capable to receive Barks of 50 or 60 Tuns there is a Bar at the Entrance and the Channel crooked On the West side of the Bar there is a spit of Sand shoots out therefore to avoid it at your coming in you must keep the East side aboard but when once entred you may run up for two or three Leagues on the East side a quarter of a Mile within the Mouth you may lie secure but all this Coast and especially this River intolerably swarms with Musketoes that there is no sleeping for them About 4 or 5 Leagues from the Mouth this River is fordable and there the Road crosses it where two French Canoas that lay in this River intercepted the Caravan of Mules laden with Cacao that was returning to La Vera Cruz taking away as much as they could carry with them From Tondeloe River to the River of Guasickwalp is 8 Leagues more the Coast still West all along sandy Bay and sand-Hills as between St. Anns and Tondeloe only towards the West part the Bank is lower and the Trees higher This is one of the Principal Rivers of this Coast 't is not half the breadth of the Tobasco River but deeper It s Bar is less dangerous than any on this Coast having 14 foot Water on it and but little Sea Within the Bar there is much more and soft Oasie ground The Banks on both sides are low The East side is woody and the West side Savannah Here are some Cattle but since it has been frequented by Privateers the Spaniards have driven most of their Bullocks from hence farther into the Country This River hath its rise near the South Sea and is Navigable a great way into Land especially with Boats or small Barks The River Teguantapeque that falls into the South Seas hath its Origine near the Head of Guasickwalp and it is reported that the first Naval Stores for the Manila Ships were sent through the Country from the North to the South Seas by the conveniency of these two Rivers whose Heads are not above 10 or 12 Leagues asunder I heard this discoursed by the Privateers long before I visited the South Seas and they seemed sometimes minded to try their Fortunes this way supposing as many do still that the South Sea shore is nothing but Gold and Silver But how grosly they are mistaken I have satisfied the World already And for this part of the Country though it is rich in Land yet it has not the least appearance of any Mine neither is it thick inhabited with Spaniards And if I am not deceived the very Indians in the heart of the Country are scarce their Friends The Town of note on the S. Sea is Teguantapeque and on the N. Seas Keyhooca is the chiefest near this River Besides these two the Country is only inhabited by Indians
till we were against the Rivers Mouth then we tackt and by the help of the Current that came out of the River we were neer a mile to Wind-ward of them all then we made Sail to assist our Consort who was hard put to it but on our approach the Toro edged away toward the shore as did all the rest and stood away for Alvarado and we glad of the Deliverance went away to the Eastward and visited all the Rivers in our return again to Trist And searched the Bays for Munjack to carry with us for the Ships use as we had done before for the use both of Ships and Canoa's Munjack is a sort of Pitch or Bitumen which we find in lumps from three or four pounds to thirty pounds in a lump washed up by the Sea and left dry on all the Sandy-Bays on all this Coast It is in substance like Pitch but Blacker it melts by the heat of the Sun and runs abroad as Pitch would do if exposed as this is on the the Bays The smell of it is not so pleasant as Pitch neither does it stick so firmly as Pitch but is apt to peel off from the Seams or Ships Bottom however we find it very useful here where we want Pitch and because it is commonly mixed with Sand by lying on the Bayes we melt it and refine it very well before we use it and commonly temper it with Oyl or Tallow to correct it for though it melts by the heat of the Sun yet it is of a harsher nature than Pitch I did never find the like in any other part of the World neither can I tell from whence it comes And now the effects of the lateStorm being almost forgot the Lagune Men settled again to their Imployments and I among the rest fell to Work in the East Lagune where I remained till my Departure for Jamaica I will only add as to this Logwood-Trade in general that I take it to be one of the most profitable to England and it nearest resembles that of Newfoundland since what arises from both is the product of bare Labour and that the Persons imployed herein are supported by the produce of their Native Country It is not my Business to determine how far we might have a right of cutting Wood there but this I can say that the Spaniards never receive less Damage from the Persons who generally follow that Trade than when they are imployed upon that Work While I was here the last time Capt. Gibbs arriv'd in a Ship of about 100 Tuns and brought with him 20 stout New-England Indians that were taken in the Wars there designing to have sold them at Jamaica but not finding a good Market brought them hither to cut Logwood and hired one Mr. Richard Dawkins to be their Overseer who carried them to work at Summasenta But it so happened that about a Week after the Captain came thither in his Boat from One-Bush-Key where his Ship lay and the Overseer having some Business desired leave to be absent for two or three days But as soon as he and the Seamen were gone the Indians taking their opportunity killed the Capt. and marched off designing to return to their own Country by Land they were seen about a Month afterward and one of them was taken near the River Tondelo After I had spent about ten or twelve Months at the Logwood Trade and was grown pretty well acquainted with the way of Traffick here I left the Imployment yet with a design to return higher after I had been in England and accordingly went from hence with Captain Chambers of London bound to Jamaica We sailed from Trist the beginning of April 1678. and arrived at Jamaica in May where I remained a small time and then returned for England with Captain Loader of London I arrived there the beginning of August the same Year and at the beginning of the following year I set out again for Jamaica in order to have gone thence to Campeachy but it proved to be a Voyage round the World of which the Publick has already had an Account in my former Volume and the First Part of this FINIS Capt. Dampier HIS DISCOURSE OF THE Trade-Winds Breezes Storms Seasons of the Year Tides and Currents of the TORRID ZONE throughout the World A Scheme of the following Treatise In or near the Torrid Zone Trade-winds p. 1. True or General at Sea 2. Coasting Constant. 12 Shifting to Oblique points 17. Opposite points Monsoons in the E. Indies 21. Breezes Sea 26. Land General 28. Peculiar to some Coasts Summasenta-Winds 43. Cartagena-Breezes 44. Popogaios 46. Producing particular Effects Terrenos or hot Winds of Coromandel 47. Malabar 48 The Persian Gulf. 48 Harmatans or cold Terrenos of Guinea 49 Storms and their Presages In the West Indies Norths 60 and Chocolatta North 62. Souths of Jamaica 65 Campeachy 66 Hurricans of the Carribbe Islands 68 In the East Indies Tuffoons 71 72. Stormy Monsoons 72 and Elephanta 74 Seasons of the Year Dry Wet Tornadoes c. 76. Tides 90. Currents 100. An Account of the Countrey of Natal 108. A View of the General Coasting TRADE-Winds in the ATLANTICK INDIAN OCEANS Mr. Dampier's Voyages Vol. II. Part III. A Discourse of Winds Breezes Storms Tides and Currents CHAP. I. Of the General Trade-Wind The Introduction Of the General Trade-Wind at Sea Of the best time of the Year to cross the Equinoctial The Winds near the Line commonly uncertain and attended with Calms and Tornadoes A Reason of the Winds blowing South near the Line in the Atlantick Sea How Ships homeward-bound from the Bite of Guinea should cross the Line Of the Trade-Wind in the South Sea and in the East Indian Ocean I Shall reduce what I have to sayon this Subject to some general Heads beginning with the Trade-Winds as being the most remarkable Trade-Winds are such as do blow constantly from one Point or Quarter of the Compass and the Region of the World most peculiar to them is from about 30 d. North to 30 d. South of the Equator There are divers sorts of these Winds some blowing from East to West some from South to North others from West to East c. Some are constant in one Quarter all the Year some blow one half the Year one way and the other six Months quite contrary and others blow six Months one way and then shifting only eight or ten Points continue there six Months more and then return again to their former Stations as all these shifting Trade-Winds do and so as the Year comes about they alternately succeed each other in their proper Seasons There are other sorts call'd Sea-Winds and Land-Winds differing much from any of the former the one blowing by Day the other by Night constantly and regularly succeeding each other Within the torrid Zone also are violent Storms as fierce if not fiercer than any are in other Parts of the World And as to the Seasons of the Year I can distinguish
in danger to be over-set by them or at least lose Masts or Yards or have the Sails split besides the Consternation that all Men must needs be in at such a time especially if the Ship by any unforeseen accident should prove unruly as by the mistake of the Man at Helm or he that Conns or by her broaching too against all endeavours which often happens when a fierce gust comes which though it does not last long yet would do much damage in a short time and tho' all things should fall out well yet the benefit of it would not compensate the danger For 't is much if a Ship sails a Mile before either the VVind dyes wholly away or at least shifts about again to the South Nor are we sure that these VVinds will continue 3 Minutes before they shift and sometimes they fly round faster than the Ship will tho' the Helm lies for it and all Seamen know the danger of being taken a back in such VVeather But what has been spoken of the Southerly VVinds Calms and Tornadoes is to be understood of the East side of the Atlantick to as far VVest as the Longitude of 359 d. or thereabouts for farther VVesterly we find the VVinds commonly at S. E. even in crossing the Line and a very brisk gale 't is for that reason our experienced Guinea Commanders do keep to the Southward of the Line till they are about that Longitude Some run over nearer the American Shore before they cross the Line Our East India Commanders do also cross the Line coming from India near the American Coast and find brisk Gales at S. E. all the times of the Year but going to the Indies they steer away South from the Island St. Jago where they commonly VVater and meet the Winds in that Longitude But of this enough The Winds near the Line in the Indian Ocean and South Sea are different from this yet there the Winds are also Southerly and therefore different from what they are farther off for 2 d. or 3 d. on each side the Line the Winds are commonly very uncertain and oftentimes there are perfect Calms or at least very small Winds and some Tornadoes in the East Indian Sea In the South Seas near and under the Line the Winds are at South 130 Leagues off from the Shoar but how farther off I know not there the Winds are but small yet constant and the Weather clear from March till September but about Christmas there are Tornadoes yet in both the East Indian Sea and the South Sea the VVinds near or under the Line are often at South yet these Winds do not blow above 2 or 3 d. to the North or South of the Line except near some Land but in the Atlantick Sea as I have said before the South and South West Winds do sometimes blow even to 10 or 12 d. North of the Line And for the South Winds to blow constantly near the Line in the Atlantick between Cape Verd in Africa and C. Blunco in Brazil is no wonderful thing if a Man will but consider those Promontories that shoot out from the Continents on each side the Sea one on the North the other on the South side of the Equafor leaving but a small space clear for the VVinds to blow in where there is always a pretty brisk Gale especially on the American side And as within 2 or 3 d. of the Equator it is most subject to Calms and Tornadoes and small faint Breezes in other Seas not pend up as this is So this Sea except just in the very opening between both Promontories is much more subject to it than any other especially on the East side that is from the Bite or the Inland corner of the Coast of Guinea to 28 or 30 d. distance VVest But this seems not to be altogether the effects of the Line but owing partly to the nearness of the Land to the Line which shoots out from the Bite of Guinea even to Cape St. Anns almost in a parrallel with the Equator allowing for the Bays a bendings and this is 23 or 24 d. of Longitude and not above 80 Leagues from the Line in some Places So that this part of the Sea between the Coast of Guinea and the Line or 2 d. South of it lying as it were between the Land and the Line is seldom free from bad VVeather especially from April to September but when the Sun is withdrawn towards the Tropick of Capricorn then there is something better VVeather there And in the Sea under the Line between the African Promontory and the American it is freer from Tornadoes and Calms and more subject to fair VVeather and fresh Breezes Therefore both our English and Dutch East India Ships when outward-bound endeavour to Cross the Line as near as they can in the mid Channel between both Promontories and although they meet the VVinds sometimes at S. S. E. or at S. S. W. or farther Easterly or Westerly yet will they not run above a degree to the East or a degree to the West of the mid Channel before they tack again for fear of meeting with the soaking Current on the West or Calms on the East side either of which would be alike prejudicial to their Course The Portuguise in their Voyages to Brazil take the same method and get to the South of the Line before they fall in with the Land for fear of falling to leward of Cape St. Augustine for there are so many things which make that a difficult Cape to pass that hardly any Man would try to do it but at a distance But our Guinea Ships do generally pass on to their Ports on the Coast of Guinea at any time of the Year without using such methods because their Business lyes mostly on the North of the Line where they always find a fair Westerly Wind. But in their returns from thence they cross the Line and run 3 or 4 d. to the Southward of it where they meet the Wind between the S. S. E. and the S. S. W. and a brisk gale with this Wind they run away in the same parrallel 35 or 36 d. before they cross the Line again to the Northward which is about mid-way between the Extreams of both Promontories there they find a brisk gale which carries them to the West Indies or where they please Some run West 40 d. before they cross the Line and find strong Gales whereas should they come from Old Callabar or any other Place in the Bite on the North of the Line and steer away West thinking to gain their Passage the sooner because it is the nearest way they would doubtless be mistaken as many Men have been For if they keep near the Line they meet with great Calms and if they keep near the Land they meet with Westerly Winds and if they keep in the middle between both they must of necessity meet with both Inconveniencies as also with Tornadoes especially in May June July and
August By which means some Ships if they go any of these three ways now cautioned against spend more time in going from the Bite to Cape Verd than another Ship will do if it cross the Line in the right Places before mentioned in going to the Barbadoes Sometimes unexperienced Guinea Masters in their return from thence after they have cross'd the Line from N. to S. and are in a fair way to gain a speedy Passage will be so obstinate in their Opinions after they have run 26 28 or 30 d. West from Old Callabar with a fair Wind to steer away W. by N. or W. N. W. it being the directest Course they can steer for Barbadoes then they must of necessity keep within a degree of the Line while they are running 2 or 300 Leagues which may prove to be a long time in doing because of the uncertainty of the Winds near the Equator therefore they that cross it near the middle between both Promontories or near the American Coast when they are minded to fall away to the Northward steer away N. W. or N. W. by N. and so depress or raise a degree in running 28 Leagues at most therefore which is best they are but a short time near the Equator And besides in thus crossing it in the middle between both Promontories they seldom miss of a Wind for the Wind in these Seas has no other Passage but between these two Promontories What I have said already on this Head has been chiefly of the Atlantick and of that too mostly about the Line because it is the most difficult Place to pass in going to the Southward In other Seas as in the East Indian Sea and the Great South Sea there is no such difficulty to pass any way because there is Sea-room enough without coming into such Inconveniencies as we meet with in the Atlantick and as to the Winds between the Line and the Tropicks in the East Indian Sea and the South Sea they are in their Latitudes as I said before viz. in South Latitude at E. S. E. and in North Lat. at E. N. E. blowing constantly fresh Breezes especially in the South Seas even from within a degree or two of the Line on each side to the Tropick or to 30 degrees of Lat. And this I may truly say That neither the Atlantick nor the East Indian Seas have the true Trade-Winds so constant nor brisk at all times of the Year and in all Latitudes as they are here For being once got into the Trade I mean without the verge of the coasting Trade-Wind it blows a very brisk gale all over the Ocean Capt. Eaton experienced this in sailing from the Gallapagos Islands to the Ladrones In the latter end of the Year 1685. VVe had the like experience sailing from Cape Corientes to Guam the Year after as appears by my Journal of that Run in my Voyage round the World Chap. 10. Pag. 185. And as for the Wind to the Southward of the Line I had great Experience of it in my ramble there with Capt. Shearp and since that Capt. Davis in his return out of the South Sea had greater experience because he took his departure from the Gallapagos Islands also and steering W. S. W. from thence till he met the True Trade at E. S. E. he steered directly South clear from the Line till he got to the Southward of the Tropick of Capricorn and so quite without the Trade In the East Indian Sea between the Lat. of 30 d. and 4 degrees South of the Equator the true Breez is at E. S. E. or S. E. by E. yet not so constant nor brisk as in the South Seas besides that part of it which lyes to the Northward of the Line has not such a constant steady Breez but is more subject to Calms and near the shoar to shifting Winds according to the Seasons of the Year CHAP. II. Of the constant coasting Trade-Winds A Parallel of the South Part of Africa and Peru. The Trade-Winds blow with an acute Angle on any Coast. The Winds about Angola and in the South Seas alike as also at Mexico and Guinea The Winds shift not in some Places Sand blown from the Shoar about Cape Blanco in Guinea An Account of the Trade-Winds from thence to Cape Lopos THE Trade-Winds which blow on any Coast are either Constant or Shifting The Coasts that are subject to constant Trade-Winds are the South Coast of Africa and Peru and part of the Coast of Mexico and part of Guinea The South part of Africa and Peru are in one Lat. both Coasts trending North and South both on the West side of their Continents both in South Lat. and tho' they do not lye exactly parallel by Reason of some Capes or Bendings in the Land yet are the Winds much alike on both Coasts all the Year long On the Coast of Angola the Winds are between the S. W. and S. And on the Coast of Peru we reckon them between the S. S. W. and S. S. E. But this the Reader must take notice of That the Trade-Winds that blow on any Coast except the North Coast of Africa whether they are constant and blow all the Year or whether they are shifting Winds do never blow right in on the Shoar nor right along Shoar but go slanting making an accute Angle of about 22 degrees Therefore as the Lands trends more Easterly or Westerly from the North or South on these Coasts so the Winds do alter accordingly as for example Where the Land lies N. and S. the Wind would be at S. S. W. but where the Land lies S. S. W. the Trade would be at S. W. But if the Land lyes S. S. E. then the Wind would be at South This is supposed of Coasts lying on the West side of any Continent and on the South side of the Equator as the two Coasts of Africa and Peru are but the North part of Africa has the Trade blowing off from the shoar two or three Points These Southerly Winds do blow constantly all the Year long on both the Coasts of Peru and Africa they are brisk and blow farther off from the Coasts than any shifting Winds On the Coast of Peru these Winds blow 140 or 150 Leagues off Shore before you can perceive them to alter But then as you run farther off so the Wind will come about more Easterly and at about 200 Leagues distance it settles at E. S. E. which is the true Trade Between Angola and Brazil the Winds are much as they are in the South Seas on the West side of the Peruvian Coast only near the Line within 4 degrees of it in South Lat. the Wind holds in the S. S. W. or S. W. for 28 or 30 d. of Longitude and so it may in the same Lat. in the South Seas for ought I know for it was at South as far as any of us were which was near 200 Leagues As the Coasts of Peru and Angola have their constant
Winds blow on the Coast except in a strong North which turns the Trade-Wind back and on the Costarica and between it and the River Darien the Westerly Winds as they are more frequent and lasting than towards Cape La Vela so also they blow farther off at Sea as sometimes as far as to 20 or 30 Leagues from the Shore Therefore Ships bound to Windward if they have far to go either take the opportunity of the Westerly Wind-Season or else go through the Gulph of Florida and stretch away to the North till they get into a variable Winds way and then run to the Eastward as far as they think convenient before they stretch to the Southward again All that are bound from the West Indies to Guinea must take this course if they sail from Jamaica because they must pass thro' the Gulph of Florida but from other Islands they may stretch away directly to the North and use the same method But if Ships have only a small way to Sail to Wind-ward they make use of the Sea and Land Breezes making no account of the time of the Year The Winds on the Coast of Brazil are from September till March at E. N. E. and from March till September again they are at South The Winds in the Bay of Panama are from September till March Easterly and from March till September again they are at S. and S. S. W. From the Cape of good Hope Eastwards as far as the River Natal which lies in 30d South Latitude and Cape Corientes in Lat. of 24 degrees South the Winds from May to October are constantly from the West to the North West within 30 Leagues of the Shore They blow hardest at North West When the Wind comes to the North West it is commonly stormy and tempestous Weather attended with much Rain and then the Weather is cold and chilly From October till March the Winds are Easterly from the E. N. E. to the E. S. E. you have then very fair Weather The E. N. E. Winds are pretty fresh but the Winds at E. S. E. are small and faint sometimes affording some drops of Rain From Cape Corientes to the Red-Sea from October till the middle of January the Winds are variable but most times Northerly and oft shifting round the Compass The strongest Winds are at North these are often very violent and stormy and accompanied with much Rain and thus it blows about the Island of Madagascar and the adjacent Islands These storms are commonly preceded by a great Sea out of the North. From January till May the Winds are at N. E. or N. N. E. fine fresh gales and sair Weather From May till October the Winds are Southerly in July August and September there are great Calms in the Bay of Pate and Melende and a strong Current setting into the Bay Therefore Ships that have occasion to pass this way in those three Months ought to keep at least 100 Leagues from the Coast to avoid being driven by the Current into the Bay for these Calms do sometimes last 6 Weeks yet off at Sea at the distance of 100 Leagues the Winds are fresh at South At the entrance into the Red-Sea near Cape Guardefuer there are commonly very hard gales and turbulent Weather even when the Calms are so great in the Bay of Melende and not above 10 or 12 Leagues at Sea from the said Cape there is also very fair Weather and pretty fresh Gales In the Red-Sea from May till October the Winds are strong at S. W. and the Current setting out strong so that there is no entring into that Sea in those Months except you keep close to the South Shore there you have Land-Winds and an eddy Current In the Months of September or October the Wind shuffles about to the North and at last settles at N. E. then comes fair Weather on this Coast and so continues till the Monsoon shifts which is in April or May then it first takes one flurry at North and from thence veers to the East and so about to the South and there it settles The Account of this Coast from the Cape of good Hope hither I had from Capt. Rogers And as this hither-most part of the East Indies even from the Cape of good Hope to the Red-Sea which Coast lies nearest N. E. and S. W. hath its shifting Seasons so the other Parts of India from the Gulph of Persia to Cape Comorin has its constant Annual change and from Comorin clear round the Bay of Bengal the change is no less and even from thence through the Streights of Malacca and Eastwards as far as Japan the shifting Trade-Winds do alternately succeed each other as duly as the Year comes about It cannot be supposed that the Trade Wind in all these Places should be exactly on one Point of the Compass For I have already shown that these Trade-Winds on any Coast do commonly blow slanting in on the Shore about 2 or 3 Points therefore in Bays where the Land lies on several Rombs the Winds must alter accordingly Though that Rule does not hold altogether true in Bays that are deep but is chiefly meant for a pretty streight Coast which lyes near alike allowing for Points of Land and small Coves which make no alteration But on the sides and in the bottom of large Bays such as the Bay of Bengall the Bay of Siam c. the Wind differs much on one side of the Bay from what it does on the other and both sides differ from the constant Trade on the open Coast yet all shift in the shifting Seasons which are April and September at one and the same time to their opposite Points I mean on the open Coast for in some Bays there is a little alteration from that general Rule These shifting Winds in the East Indies are called Monsoons one is called the East Monsoon the other the West Monsoon The East Monsoon sets in about September and blows till April then ceaseth and the West Monsoon takes place and blows till Septerber again And both the East and West Monsoons blow in their Seasons slanting in on the Coast as is before described The East Monsoon brings fair Weather the West brings Tornadoes and Rain For as I said before in the first Chap. of the General Trade-Wind at Sea when the Sun comes to the North of the Line then all Places North of the Equator within the Tropicks are troubled with Clouds and Rain but when the Sun is in Southern Signs then the Sky is clear And as most of the Trading Countries in the East Indies especially those on the main Continent do lye between the Line and the Tropick of Cancer So these Countries are all subject to the Changes and Seasons already described But the Islands lying under the Line and to the South between the Line and the Tropick of Capricorn have contrary Seasons to these Yet do they change at the self-same time The difference between the Monsoons on the
the Line in the Months of April and September but near the Line as a degree or two on each side the Winds are not so constant Indeed there they are so very uncertain that I cannot be particular so as to give any true Account of them Only this I know that Calms are very frequent there as also Tornadoes and sudden Gusts in which the Winds fly in a moment quite round the Compass CHAP. IV. Of Sea and Land-Breezes How Sea-Breezes differ from Common Trade-Winds The time and manner of their Rise And particularly at Jamaica Of the Land-Breezes The time and manner of their Rise As on the Isthmus of Darien and at Jamaica The places where these Winds blow strongest or slackest as at Gapes and Head Lands deep Bays Lagunes and Islands Seals-Skin Bladders used instead of Bark Loggs SEA-Breezes generally speaking are no other than the Common Trade-Wind of the Coasts on which they blow with this difference that whereas all Trade-Winds whether they are those that I call the general Trade-Winds at Sea or coasting Trade-Winds either constant or shifting do blow as well by Night as by Day with an equal briskness except when Tornadoes happen So contrarily Sea-Winds are only in the Day and cease in the Night and as all Trade-Winds blow constantly near to one Point of the Compass both where the constant Trade-Winds are or where they shift on the contrary these Sea-Winds do differ from them in this that in the Morning when they first spring up they blow commonly as the Trade-Winds on the Coast do at or near the same Point of the Compass but about Mid-Day they fly off 2 3 or 4 Points further from the Land and so blow almost right in on the Coast especially in fair Weather for then the Sea-Breezes are truest as for instance on the Coast of Angola the Land lies almost North and South there the Trade-Wind is from the S. S. W. to the S. W. the true Sea Breezes near the shore are at W. by S. or W. S. W. and so of any other Coast. These Sea-Breezes do commonly rise in the Morning about Nine a Clock sometimes sooner sometimes later they first approach the shore so gently as if they were afraid to come near it and oft-times they make some faint breathings and as if not willing to offend they make a halt and seem ready to retire I have waited many a time both ashore to receive the pleasure and at Sea to take the benefit of it It comes in a fine small black Curle upon the Water whenas all the Sea between it and the shore not yet reach'd by it is as smooth and even as Glass in Comparison in half an Hour's time after it has reached the shore it fans pretty briskly and so increaseth gradually till 12 a Clock then it is commonly strongest and lasts so till 2 or 3 a very brisk gale about 12 at Noon it also veres off to Sea 2 or 3 Points or more in very fair Weather After 3 a Clock it begins to dye away again and gradually withdraws its force till all is spent and about 5 a Clock sooner or later according as the Weather is it is lull'd asleep and comes no more till the next Morning These Winds are as constantly expected as the day in their proper Latitudes and seldom fail but in the wet Season On all Coasts of the main whether in the East or West Indies or Guinea they rise in the Morning and withdraw towards the Evening yet Capes and Head Lands have the greatest benefit of them where they are highest rise earlier and blow later Bays contrarily have the disadvantage for there they blow but faintly at best and their continuance is but short Islands that lye nearest East and West have the benefit of these Winds on both sides equally for if the Wind is at S. W. or S. W. by S. on the South side of any Island then on the North side it would be at N. W. or N. W. by N. i. e. in fair Weather but if turbulent Weather it would be E. S. E. on the Southside and E. N. E. on the other But this true Sea-Breeze does not veer so far out except only near the shore as about 3 or 4. Leagues distant for farther than that you will find only the right Coasting Trade-Wind This I have experienced in several Parts of the World particularly at Jamaica about which I have made many Voyages both on the North and the South side where I have experienced the Sea-Breezes very much to differ for on the South side I have found the true Sea-Wind after 12 a Clock and in very fair Weather at S. or S. S. E. though it sprung up in the Morning at E. S. E. or S. E. And on the North side I have found the Sea-Breez at N. or N. N. E. though it rose in the Morning at E. N. E. but whether there may be the like difference about smaller Islands as at Barbadoes c. I cannot determine tho' I am apt to believe there is not So much for the Sea-Winds next of the Land-Breezes Land-Breezes are as remarkable as any Winds that I have yet treated of they are quite contrary to the Sea-Breezes for those blow right from the shore but the Sea-Breez right in upon the shore And as the Sea-Breezes do blow in the Day and rest in the Night so on the contrary these do blow in the Night and rest in the Day and so they do alternately succeed each other For when the Sea-Breezes have performed their Offices of the Day by breathing on their respective Coasts they in the Evening do either withdraw from the Coast or lye down to rest Then the Land-Winds whose Office it is to breathe in the Night moved by the same order of Divine Impulse do rouze out of their private recesses and gently fan the Air till the next Morning and then their task ends and they leave the Stage There can be no proper time set when they do begin in the Evening or when they retire in the Morning for they do not keep to an hour but they commonly spring up between 6 and 12 in the Evening and last till 6 8 or 10 in the Morning They both come and go away again earlier or later according to the Weather the Season of the Year or some accidental Cause from the Land For on some Coasts they do rise earlier blow fresher and remain later than on other Coasts as I shall shew hereafter They are called Land-Winds because they blow off shore contrary to the Sea-Breez which way soever the Coast lies Yet I would not so be understood as if these Winds are only found to breathe near the shores of any Land and not in the Inland Parts of such Countries remote from the Sea for in my Travells I have found them in the very heart of the Countries that I have passed through as particularly on the Isthmus of Darien and the Island of Jamaica Both
which places I have travelled over from Sea to Sea yet because these are but small Tracts of Land in comparison with the two main Bodies of Land of Mexico and Peru and those vast Regions in Asia and Africa lying within the Tropicks I cannot determine whether the Land-Winds are there as I have found them in my small Travels therefore I shall only confine this particular Discourse to these and other Places within my own Observations I shall begin first with the Isthmus of Darien there I have found the Land-Winds in the middle of the Country blowing all Night and till 10 or 11 a Clock in the Morning before I could perceive the Sea-Breeze to arise and that not discernable many times but by the flying of the Clouds especially if I was in a Valley and it was in Vallies that I did chiefly perceive the Land-Winds which blew in some places one way in others contrary or side ways to that according as the Vallies lay pend up between the Mountains and that without any respect to either the North or the South Seas but indeed near either side of the Land they always bent their course towards the nearest Sea unless there was any Hill between them and the Sea and then they took their Course along in the Vallies but from both shores as well from the North as the South they blow right forth into the Sea In the Island of Jamaica these Land-Winds are in the middle of the Country also I have found them so as I travelled from one side of the Island to the other having lain 2 Nights by the way as I had before observed them when I liv'd at 16 Miles Walk where I continued about 6 Months but there and in other Islands the Land-Winds do blow towards the nearest shores and so from thence off to Sea whether the shore's lye East West North or South These Winds blow off to Sea a greater or less distance according as the Coast lies more or less exposed to the Sea-Winds For in some Places we find them brisk 3 or 4 Leagues off shore in other Places not so many Miles and in some Places they scarce peep without the Rocks or if they do sometimes in very fair Weather make a sally out a Mile or 2 they are not lasting but suddenly vanish away though yet there are every Night as fresh Land-Winds ashore at those Places as in any other part of the World Places most remarkable for the fewest or faintest Land-Winds are those that lye most open to the Common Trade-Winds as the East ends of any Islands where the Trade-Winds do blow in upon the Shore or the head-Head-Lands on Islands or Continents that are open to the Sea-Breez especially where the Trade-Wind blows down side-ways by the Coast for there such Head-Lands as stretch farthest out to Sea are most exposed to Winds from the Sea and have the less benefit of the Land-Breezes I shall give a few Instances of either And first of all begin with the N. E. and S. E. Points of the Island of Jamaica These Points are at the East end of the Island one is at the very Extreme of the North side towards the East the other on the South Extreme towards the same Point at these two Places we seldom light of a Land-Wind nor very often at the end of the Island between them except near the shore For that Reason the Sloop-men of Jamaica that Trade round the Island are commonly put to their Trumps when they come there in their Voyages For if they meet no Land-Wind they are obliged to beat about by turning to wind-ward against the Sea-Breez in the Day time they then curse these Points of Land and are foolishly apt to believe that some Daemon haunts there And if they are 2 or 3 Days in beating about as sometimes they are when they return to Port Royal they will talk as much of their Fatigues as if they had been beating a Month to double the Cape of good Hope though indeed the Men are brisk enough and manage their sloops very well which also are generally very good Boats to sail on a Wind. I think they are the best small Trading-Boats in the King's Dominions Point Pedro on the South-side of the Island is another very bad Point to double if a Ship come from the West-end of the Island This Point runs out far into the Sea and is not only destitute of the Common Land-Winds But if there is any Current setting to Leeward here the Sloop-men meet it Therefore they are many times longer beating about it then about the two former Points of the South East and the North East and not without bestowing some Curses upon it Nay some Captains of Privateers when they have been beating about it have stood close in to the Point and fired their Guns to kill the old Daemon that they say inhabits there to disturb poor Seamen I have related these odd Passages to shew how ignorant Men are that cannot see the Reason of it And because I am not willing to leave my Reader in the dark I shall give a few Instances more on this subject The North side of Jucatan at the entrance into the Bay of Campeachy gives us another Instance of bad Land-Winds and commonly where the Land-Winds are scanty the Sea-Breezes are but indifferent neither This will partly appear by what I have observed of them on this Coast between Cape Catoach and Cape Condeseado at the entrance of the Bay of Campeachey which two places are about Eighty Leagues distant for there the Land trends East and West It is a streight Coast and lies all of it equally exposed to the Trade-VVind which is commonly there at E. N. E. To the W. of these Places the Sea and Land-VVinds do as duly succeed each other as on any other Coast but here they are each of them of a Bastard kind for the Sea-Breezes are at N. E. by E. which is no better than a Coast Trade-VVind and the Land-VVind is at E. S. E. or S. E. by E. whereas if the VVinds were as true there as on other Coasts the Sea-Breez would be at N. N. E. sometimes at N. and the Land-VVinds would be at S. S. E. and S. as they are indeed close under the shore which if they do at any time come off from they are very faint The Land on this Coast is low and even and the Land-VVinds ashore are pretty brisk The Capes on the Peruvian Coast in the South Seas will more fully make it appear that Head-Lands do seldom afford any Land-VVinds I shall only Instance in Cape Passao in Lat. 8 Minutes South Cape St. Laurence in Lat. 1 d. South and Cape Blanco in 3 d. South I have pass'd by them all several times and at different Seasons yet did never find any Land-winds there though between these Places there are very good Land-winds Therefore Ships that sail to the Southward against the Breez must beat it about by hard Labour
especially about Cape Blanco for that lyes more exposed than the other 2 and if there is any Current as commonly the Spaniards are a long time getting about sometimes a Fortnight or 3 VVeeks and when they have split their Sails which are seldom very good they run back to Guiaquill to mend them again We found it hard getting about tho' our Sails were good and I think we could work our Ships better than the Spaniards are ever able to do in those Seas I have already given several Instances of such Places as have no Land-VVinds or at least but very ordinary ones I shall next proceed in order to shew where the strongest or best Land-VVinds are met with and then I shall speak of those Places where there blows a moderate and indifferent Gale between both Extreams That so any one may judge by the Lying of the Land whether it may afford a good Land-wind or no. The briskest Land-winds are commonly in deep Bays in great Lakes within Land and among great Ranges of Islands or small Keys that lye near the shore I shall give Instances of all these And as for Bays I shall first pitch on the Bay of Campeachy which lies between Cape Condecedo and the high-High-Land of St. Martin between both these Places the Land-winds are as brisk 2 or 3 Leagues off at Sea as in any Place that I know In the Cod or Middle of the Bay the Land trends from East to VVest there the Sea-Breezes are at North and the Land-winds at South they commonly begin to blow at 7 or 8 a Clock in the Evening and continue till 8 or 9 the next Morning in the dry Season especially In that Bay there is an Island call'd by the English Beef-Island from the multitude of Bulls and Cows that inhabit it The smell of these wild Cattle is driven off to Sea by the Land-winds so fresh that by it Masters of Ships sailing in the Night on this Coast have known where they were and have presently anchored that Night and come into the Island of Trist the next Day whereas they would otherwise have past farther to the VVestward quite out of their way if they had not smell'd the strong scent of these Cattle So all the bottom of the Bay of Mexico even from the High-Land of St. Martin down to Lavera Cruz and from thence Northerly towards the River Meschasipi affords good Land-winds and Sea-breezes The Bay of Honduras also and almost all the Coast between it and Cape la Vela affords the like allowing for the Capes and Points of Land which lye between where it fails more or less as the Points do lye more or less exposed to the Sea-Breezes So in the South Seas the Bays of Panama Guiaquil Paita c. have their fresh Land-winds and Sea-breezes But in some Places as particularly at Paita the Land-winds do not spring up till 12 a Clock in the Night but then are always very fresh and last till 7 or 8 the next Morning and they are constant all the Year long VVhereas in the Bay of Panama and also in all the Bays and Coasts of the other or North side of America already described they are not so constant in the wet Season as they are in the dry The Bay of Campeachy will also afford us Instances of the Land-winds that blow in Lagunes As for instance the Lagune of Trist which is about 9 or 10 Leagues long and 3 broad is barricadoed from the Sea by the Island of Trist. There the Land-winds blow in the dry Season from 5 or 6 a Clock in the Evening till 9 or 10 in the Morning There are two other Lagunes lying within that and parted from it by low mangrove-Mangrove-Land there the Land-winds are fresher and the Sea-Breeze duller and of a less continuance than in the Lagune of Trist. Nay sometimes the Land-wind blows all Day so in the Lagune of Maracaybo to VVind-ward of Cape Alta Vela the Land-winds are very fresh and lasting The like may be said of the Lagune of Venizuella or Comana Sometimes in the fore-mentioned Lagunes the Land-winds do blow for 3 or 4 Days and Nights together scarce suffering the Sea-Breez to breath there though at the same time the Sea-Breez may blow fresh out at Sea and if the Sea-Breez at such times should make a bold Sally into these Lagunes it would be but of a short continuance On the other hand at Capes and Head-Lands more exposed to Sea-Breezes the Land-winds are shier of coming there than the Sea-winds are into Lagunes Neither may we forget the Harbour of Jamaica for there are very good Land-winds It is compassed in on one side with a long Neck of Sand and many small Islands at the mouth of it and within there is a pretty deep Lake in which are constant Sea and Land-winds by which the VVherry-men run with full sail both to Legamy or Passage-Fort from the Town and back again They go away with the Sea-Breez and return with the Land-wind There fore Passengers that have occasion to go either way wait for the coming of these VVinds except their Business requires hast for then they are rowed against the Breez and though the Land-winds do sometimes fail or come very late yet the VVherries seldom stay beyond their constant Hours of 7 or 8 a Clock and sometimes the Land-winds do come by 3 or 4 but when they come so early it is commonly after a Tornado from the Land This may suffice as to the Land-winds in Lakes or Bays As to what may be spoken concerning the Land-winds among Islands I shall only mention 2 Places both of them in the West Indies the first are the Keys of Cuba which are abundance of small Islands bordering on the South side of Cuba reaching in length from East to VVest or near those Points as the Island lies about 70 Leagues and in some Places reaching near 20 Leagues from the said Island Among these Islands even from the outermost of them quite home to Cuba there are very brisk Land-winds They spring up early in the Evening and blow late in the Morning The Jamaica Turtlers visit these Keys with good success for Turtle all the Year long and from thence bring most of their Turtle wherewith the Market of Port-Royal is served The other Islands I shall mention are the Sambaloe Islands betwixt Cape Samblass and Golden Island though they are not so large a Range as the Keys of Cuba yet do they afford very good Land-winds near as good as the Keys of Cuba do And thus much for the Places where the best as well as where the scantiest or faintest Land-winds are found I shall next give some Instances of the Medium between both Extreams I have already shewn that Capes and such Head-Lands as lye out farthest from the rest of the shore are thereby most exposed to the Sea-winds and consequently the Land-winds are there much fainter than in other Places especially in deep Bays or Lagunes within Land or
among Islands and small Keys near the Land All which is no more than my own Experience has taught me I shall now shew how the Land-winds blow on Coasts that do lye more level As all Coasts have their Points and bendings so accordingly the Land-winds are fresher or fainter as you come either towards these bendings or towards intermitting Points or head-Head-Lands I shall give an Instance of this by shewing how the VVinds are on the Coast of Caraccos It is as streight a Shore as I can pitch on yet full of small Bays divided from each other by a like number of Ridges of High-Land that shoot forth their Heads a little way without the Bays on each side There in the Night or Morning while the Land-wind blows we find fresh Gales out of the Bays but when we come abreast of the Head-Lands we find it Calm yet see the Breez curling on the VVater on both sides of us and sometimes get a spurt of it to help us forward and having recovered the VVind out of the next Bay we pass by the Mouth of it presently till we come to the next Head and there we lye becalmed as before These Bays are not above half a Mile or a Mile wide neither are the Heads much wider but these Heads of the Ridges lying in between the Bays have steep Cliffs against the Sea and where-ever I have met the like steep Cliffs against the Sea I have seldom found any Land-VVinds But in all other Places where the Bays strike deeper into the Land there we find the Land-winds more lasting and strong and where the Points are farther out there are still the less Land-winds and the brisker Sea-Breezes For the Capes and smaller Points on all shores seem to be so many Barricadoes to break off the violence of the Sea-Breezes for this we always find when we are turning to VVind-ward being to Leeward of a Cape that the Breez is moderate especially if we keep very near the shore but when once we come within a Mile more or less of the Cape and stand off to Sea as soon as we get without it we find such a hussing Breez that sometimes we are not able to ply against it but in the Night we find a fresh Land-wind to Leeward tho' when we come to the Cape we find it Calm or perhaps sometimes meet with a Sea-wind The Land-Breezes on the Coast of Guinea between Cape St. Anns and Cape Palmas mentioned in the second Chapter of this Discourse are at E. blowing brisk 4 Leagues off shore the Sea-winds there are at S. VV. The Land-winds on the Coast of Angola are at E. N. E the Sea-winds at VV. S. VV. these are very true VVinds of both kinds The Land-winds on the Coast of Peru and Mexico in the South Seas are in most Places right off from the shore else the Fisher-men could never go out to Sea as they do on Bark Loggs And as the Land-winds are true there so are the Sea-Breezes also for with the Land-wind they go out to Fish and return in again with the Sea-winds In some Places they use Seals Skins instead of Bark Loggs they are made so tight that no Bladder is tighter To these they have long Necks like the Neck of a Bladder into which they put a Pipe and blow them up as we do Bladders two of these being fastned together a Man sets a-stride them having one before and the other behind him and so sits firmer than in a Troopers Saddle His Padle is like a Quarter-staff with a broad Blade at each end with this he strikes the Sea back first on one side and then on the other with each end of his Paddle and so gives himself fresh way through the VVater In the East Indies also there are true Sea-Breezes as well on the Islands as on the main On Islands as at Bantam in the Island Java and at Achin in the Island Sumatra and in many Places on the Island Mindanao And on the main also as particularly at Fort St. George on the Coast Coromandel There the Land-winds blow right off from the shore and the Sea-winds right in but sometimes they come slanting in and about Christmas they blow from the N. E. or N. N. E. I found them so when I came on the Coast and being advised of it by Mr. Coventry in whose Sloop I then was I fell in with the Land 10 or 12 Leagues to the Northward of the Fort and had a brisk Northerly Sea-wind to bring me into the Road. I think these Instances are enough to shew how these Land-winds do usually blow in most parts of the VVorld should I be very particular 't is not a larger Treatise than I intend this to be would hold a quarter-part of it But I have been more particular in the West Indies and South Seas because these Land-winds are of more use there than in the East Indies For though sometimes Men in the East Indies do turn against the Monsoones yet they do generally tarry for them before they budge Indeed these VVinds are an extraordinary blessing to those that use the Sea in any part of the VVorld within the Tropicks for as the constant Trade-winds do blow there could be no sailing in these Seas But by the help of the Sea and Land-Breezes Ships will sail 2 or 3 hundred Leagues as particularly from Jamaica to the Lagune of Trist in the Bay of Campeachy and then back again all against the Trade-wind And I think this is one of the longest Voyages that is used of this kind If any of our Jamaica Sloops do go to Trist and design to carry their VVood to Curasao then they put through the Gulph of Florida The Spaniards also that come from any part of the Bay of Mexico and are bound to any Place to VVind-ward of the Island Cuba are wont to put through the Gulph and 10 stretch away to the Northward till they come clear of the Trade and then stand away as far as they please to the Eastward This is also the usual way from Jamaica to Barbadoes though sometimes they turn up by the Carribbee Islands only taking the Benefit of these Sea and Land-winds So also Ships may and do pass from Portobello to Carthagena or to St. Martha or to any other Place by the help of these Breezes if the distance is not too far So by taking the Advantage of these VVinds Sloops in the West Indies sail clear round the Islands or to any part of them in a short time In the South Seas also the Spaniards in their Voyages from Panama to Lima by taking the Advantage of these VVinds do sail as high as Cape Blanco but in all their Voyages to the Southward of that Cape they stand quite off to Sea into the Trade Thus you see the use and advantage of them The Seamen that sail in Sloops or other small Vessels in the West Indies do know very well when they shall meet a brisk Land-VVind by
the Foggs that hang over the Land before Night for it is a certain sign of a good Land-VVind to see a thick Fogg lye still and quiet like Smoak over the Land not stirring any way and we look out for such Signs when we are plying to VVind-ward For if we see no Fog over the Land the Land-wind will be but faint and short that Night These signs are to be observed chiefly in fair VVeather for in the wet Season Foggs do hang over the Land all the Day and it may be neither Land-wind nor Sea-Breeze stirring If in the Afternoon also in fair VVeather we see a Tornado over the Land it commonly sends us forth a fresh Land-VVind These Land-winds are very cold and though the Sea-Breezes are always much stronger yet these are colder by far The Sea-Breezes indeed are very comfortable and refreshing for the hottest time in all the Day is about 9 10 or 11 a Clock in he Morning in the interval between both Breezes For then it is commonly Calm and then People pant for breath especially if it is late before the Sea-Breez comes but afterwards the Breez alays the heat However in the Evening again after the Sea-breez is spent it is very hot till the Land-wind springs up which is sometimes not till Twelve a Clock or after For this Reason Men when they go to Bed uncloath themselves and lye without any thing over them Nay the ordinary sort of People spread Mats at their Doors or else in their Yards in Jamaica and lye down to sleep in the open Air. In the East Indies at Fort St. George also Men take their Cotts or little Field-Beds and put them in the Yards and go to sleep in the Air And Seamen aboard Ships in these hot Countries lye on the Deck till the Land-wind comes The Inhabitants of Jamaica or Fort St. George have somewhat to cover themselves when the Land-wind comes besides a Pillow on their Breast or between their Arms. But Seamen who have wrought hard all Day lye naked and exposed to the Air it may be all Night long before they awake without any covering especially if they have had their dose of Punch But next Morning they are scarce able to budge being stiff with cold that brings them to Fluxes and that to their Graves and this is the fate of many stout and brave Seamen and it is a great pitty that Masters of Ships have so little regard for their Men as not by some good Orders to prohibit this dangerous Custom of lying abroad and naked in the Nights CHAP. V. Of Land-winds and Sea-Breezes peculiar to some Coasts at some particular seasons of the Year as also of some Winds that produce strange Effects Of the Summasenta-Winds in the Bay of Campeachy Of the Winds peculiar to the Coasts of Carthagena Winds on the Mexican Coasts call'd Popogaios Others on the Coast of Coromandel call'd Terrenos The same about Malabar but at a different Season As also in the Persian Gulph And of the Hermatans on the Coast of Guinea I Shall begin with the Summasenta-Winds as they are called which blow in the Bay of Campeachy These are VVinds that come in the Months of Feb. March and April and they blow only in that Bay between the High-Land of St. Martin and Cape Condecedo which Places are about 120 Leagues asunder They are properly speaking neither Sea-Breezes nor true Land-winds yet in respect of their blowing in some measure from the shore they are in that somewhat of kin to the Land-winds These VVinds are commonly at E. S. E. in the Cod or Middle of the Bay where the Land lies E. and VV. and the true Land-winds there are at S. S. E. but from thence toward Cape Condecedo the Land trends away N. E. N. N. E. and N. So that they become Land-winds there respecting the Land from whence they blow but then they differ both from Sea and Land-Breezes in respect to their duration For these Summasenta-Winds blow 3 or 4 Days sometimes a VVeek both Night and Day before they cease They are commonly dry VVinds and blow very fresh and Ships that go from Trist with Logwood at the time when these VVinds blow will be at Cape Condecedo in 3 or 4 Days whereas if they go at any other time it will take up 8 or 10 Days tho' seldom more than that For here are good Land-winds and Sea-Breezes at other times These VVinds are commonly colder than the Sea-winds though not so cold as the Land-winds yet stronger than either I never could perceive that these VVinds did make any alteration on our Bodies different from other VVinds. But the Tides when these VVinds blow on that Coast are very small especially in the Lagunes of Trist so that the Log-wood-Barks that bring the VVood Aboard of the Ships are then forc'd to lye still for want of VVater to float them over some flats in the Lagunes On the Coast of Carthagena there are a peculiar sort of VVinds that blow in the Months of April May and June so very fierce that Ships are not able to ply to VVind-ward on that Coast while these VVinds last These VVinds blow about 40 or 50 Leagues to Wind-ward of Carthagena Town and about 10 to Leeward of it They are very fierce from the middle of the Channel between it and Hispaniola and so continue almost to the Coast of Carthagena Tho' they are sometimes a little fainter within 2 or 3 Leagues of the shore especially Mornings and Evenings They commonly rise in the Morning before day sometimes at 3 or 4 a Clock and so continue till 9 10 or 11 at Night and thus they will blow 10 or 11 Days together very siercely At this time the Land-winds besides their short continuance are very faint and blow but a little way off shore So that from 10 or 11 at Night till 3 in the Morning 't is quite Calm and not one breath of VVind from a League distant off the shore tho' 3 or 4 further off you 'l find the Breez and nearer a small Land-wind These VVinds are at E. N. E. as the Common Trade is whereas the Sea-Breezes are at N. E. by N. or N. N. E. While these fierce VVinds stay the Sky is commonly clear without any Cloud to be seen tho' doubtless 't is imperceptibly hazy for then the Sun does not give a true black shade on the Ground but very faint and dusky The Horizon too looks very dusky thick and hazy and while the Sun is near the Horizon either in the Morning or Evening it looks very red Sometimes though but seldom when these VVinds blow the Sky is over-cast with small Clouds which afford some drizling small Rain But though these VVinds are so fierce on the Coast of Carthagena yet both to VVind-ward and to Leeward at the distances before-mentioned the Breezes blow moderate as at other times For the Sea and Land-winds do there keep their constant and regular Courses Neither are the Coasts
Where together with the Harmatans he gives an Account also of all the Winds on that Coast. Mr. Greenhill's Letter SIR I Have been very ill since my return Home with the Gout so that I have not been capable of answering your Expectation But being a little beâ—… recovered I shall make as good a return to your Enquâ—… of the Harmatans on the Coast of Guinea as 〈◊〉 Circumstances will permit The usual Time of 〈◊〉 blowing is between the latter part of December 〈◊〉 the beginning of February before and 〈◊〉 Seasons they never exceed They 〈◊〉 of 〈◊〉 cold sharp and piercing a Nature that the 〈◊〉 of the Floors of our Chambers and the 〈◊〉 Decks of our Ships as far as they are aboâ—… 〈◊〉 will open so wide as that with facility you may 〈◊〉 a Caulking Iron a considerable way into thâ—… 〈◊〉 which condition they continue so long as the 〈◊〉 tan blows which is sometimes two or three 〈◊〉 very rarely five Days which is the very 〈◊〉 observed or heard of and when they are 〈◊〉 close again and are as tight as if it never 〈◊〉 The Natives themselves and all Person 〈◊〉 those parts during that short Season to prevent their pernicious Effects are obliged to confine themselves within Doors where they endeavour their own security by rendring their Habitations as close and impenetrable as possible Neither will they once stir abroad unless induced thereto by a more than ordinary Occasion It is as destructive to the Cattle also whose safe Guard consists in their Proprietors Care who against this Season ought to provide some such like place for them Otherwise they must expect but a pittiful Account when the Season is over for it most certainly destroys them and that in a very short time This I accidentally experimented by exposing a couple of Goats to the Asperity thereof which in four hours space or thereabouts were depriv'd of Life Nay we our selves unless assisted by the like Conveniency and the benefit of some sweet Oyls to correct the Air cannot fetch our Breath so freely as at other times but are almost suffocated with too frequent and Acid Respirations They generally blow between the E. and E. N. E. to the Northward of which they never exceed being the most settled and steddy but fresh Gale I ever observ'd coming without Thunder Lightning or Rain but close gloomy Weather the Sun not shining all the time And when they expire the Trade-wind which constantly blows on that Coast at W. S. W. and S. W. returns with the accustomary seasonableness of Weather The Coast of Africa from Cape Palmas to Cape Formosa lies E. and E. by N. and near those Points the Land Breezes blow on that Coast which commonly begin about seven in the Evening and continue all Night till near that time the next Morning During which interval we are troubled with stinking Fogs and Mists off Shore which by return of the Sea-Breezes upon the opposite Points are all driven away and we have the benefit of them in a curious fresh Gale till obout 5 in the Afternoon And here let me Note it for a general Observation That in these and all other Places within the Tropicks as far as ever I took notice the Wind is drawn by the Land For if an Island or Head-Land were inclining to a circular Form the Sea and Land-Breezes fall in Diametrically opposite to that part where you are So that if you are on the South side the Sea-Breez shall be at South and the Land-Breez when it comes in its Season at North. In getting on the Coast we endeavour to fall in with Cape Mount or Cape Miserada which is about 18 Leagues to the E. S. Eastward thereof and after that we double Cape Palmas whence as asoresaid the Land trends away E. by N. the Current near the shore sets upon that Point down into the Bite But in getting off we as much attempt if possible to lay hold of St. Thomas and thence to run to the Southward of the Line perhaps 3 or 4 Degrees for the further Southerly we go the stronger we find the Gales and more beneficial for getting off the African Coast but those who keep to the Northward thereof generally meet with more Calms and consequently longer Voyages ensue In or about those Latitudes we continue till we are got between 25 and 30 Degrees to the Westward of Cape Lopez de Gonsalvo and then we cross again to go either for England or the West Indies But by the way let me observe to you that when once we are to the West-ward of the 〈◊〉 Cape and in South Latitude the Current sets â—…therly and the Wind to 20 Degrees of Latitude 〈◊〉 E. S. E. as to the like number of Degrees on the North side of the Line it blows at 〈◊〉 Neither did I ever observe any Mutation of the 〈◊〉 unless in the Tornado-Season when during their blowing they commonly set to Wind-ward tho' perhaps the Moon upon Full and Change may have the like influence there as in other Places but I never took any particular notice thereof The said Tornadoes usually come in the beginning of Apr. and seldom relinquish the Gold Coast till July commences and with frequent visits make us sensible of their Qualities We have sometimes three or four in a day but then their continuance is but short perhaps not above two hours and the strength or fury it may be about a quarter or half an Hour but accompanied with prodigious Thunder Lightning and Rain and the violence of the Wind so extraordinary as that it has sometimes rolled up the Lead wherewith the Houses are cover'd as close and compactly as possible it could be done by the Art of Man The Name implys a variety of Winds But the strength of them is generally at S. E. and by Ships that are bound off the Coast they are made use of to get to Windward I shall conclude with that most worthy Observation of the Season wherein the Rains begin which on the Gold Coast is about the 10th of April And this may be generally remarked from 15 d. N. to 15 d. South Latitude that they follow the Sun within 5 or 6 d. And so proceed with him till he has touched the Tropick and returns to the like Station again This I shall illustrate by the following Example Viz. Cape Corso Castle lies in 4 d. 55 North. About the 10th of April the Sun has near 12 degrees N. Declination At that time the Rains begin and continue with the Inhabitants of that Place until he has performed his Course to the greatest obliquity from off the Equator and returned to the like Position South The same I suppose may be observed and understood of other places within the Tropicks The Variation of which in the Year 1680. I made frequent Observations was 2 d. 14 m. Westerly And it generally flows at the aforesaid place S. S. E. and N. N. W. upon the Full and Change The Water
my Course for Jamaica and found the N. E. Corner to lye in Lat. 18 d. North and in Longi West from Tobago 13 d. The Meridian distance from Tobago is 749 Miles VVest In our passage we saw no Land or Island till we made the N. E. end of Jamaica which lyeth in Longi VVest from the Meridian of Lundy 64 d. 10 m. and VVest from the City of Loango 82 d. 18 m. I shall only add that I am of Opinion that the Gallopagos Islands do lye a great deal further to the VVestward than our Hydrographers do place them according as Mr. Dampier hints p. 100 of his Voyage round the World I am Portbury Octob. 20. 1698. SIR Your most humble Servant John Covant Part of a second Letter from Captain Covant dated from Bristol Decemb. 10. 1697. LETTER II. SIR YOurs of the 6th Instant came to my Hands with the enclosed Queries which I shall endeavour to answer in part as far as my memory will assist me being now from home and at a distance from my Journals c. 1. The Common Trade-Winds on the Coast of Angola blow from the S. VV. to South till about 12 d. Long. from the Meridian of the Isle of Lundy 2. I have found them always in the same Quarter and not subject to shift in all the time I have used this Coast except that at a small distance off the shore they are sometimes a Point more to the VVestward 3. The Dry Season on this Coast I observed to be from the latter end of April to September tho' sometimes intermix'd with some pleasant showers of Rain I cannot be so punctual as to the time of the Wet Seasons 4. The true Sea-Breez I have commonly found here to be from W. S. W. to VV. by S. if it be fair Weather and the Land Breez is at E. by N. But if a Tornado happens it causes the Winds to shift all round the Compass and at last it settles at S. VV. which is the former true Trade Wind. I am yours John Covant CHAP. VI. Of Storms Storms less frequent but more fierce between the Tropicks Presages of their coming Of Norths the Times and Places where they blow Signs of their approach N. Banks A Chocolatta North. A North beneficial to Ships going from Campeachy to Jamaica A very uncommon way of wearing a Ship in a North. Of Souths the Times and Places where they Blow A Description of a South at Jamaica and at the Bay of Campeachy Much Fish kill'd by that Storm Of Hurricanes A Description of a terrible one at Antegoe where abundance of Fish and Sea Fowles were destroyed by it The difference between North Banks and the Clouds before an Hurricane the latter adorned with radiant Colours Tuffoons in the East-Indies the same with Hurricanes in the West Of Monsoons in the East-Indies A Storm called by the Portuguese the Elephanta which is the violentest Monsoon of that Season STorms within the Tropicks are generally known to us by some Name or other to distinguish them from other common Winds and though Storms are not so frequent there as they are in Latitudes nearer the Poles yet are they nevertheless expected yearly in their proper Months and when they do come they blow exceeding fierce though indeed some years they do not come at all or at least do not blow with that fierceness as at other times And as these Winds are commonly very fierce so are they but of a short continuance in comparison with Storms that we meet with in higher Latitudes In the West Indies there are three sorts viz. Norths Souths and Hurricanes In the East-Indies there are only two sorts viz. Monsoones and Tuffoones All these sorts of violent Storms except the Norths are expected near one time of the year and this is taken notice of by those that have been in any of them that they give certain Presages of their being at hand several hours before they come Norths are violent Winds that frequently blow in the Bay of Mexico from October till March They are chiefly expected near the full or change of the Moon all that time of the year but they are most violent in December and January These Winds are not confined to the Bay of Mexico only but there they are most frequent and rage with the greatest Violence They blow on the North side of Cuba very fierce too and in the Gulph of Florida as also about Hispaniola Jamaica c. and in the Channel between Jamaica and Portabel and in all the West Indian Sea between the Islands and the Main as high as the Island Trinidado But from Jamaica Eastward except on the North side of the Island Hispaniola they blow no harder than a pretty brisk Sea Wind. They are here at W. N. W. or N. W. though in the Bay of Mexico they blow strongest at N. N. W. and this is the Season of Westerly Winds in these East parts of the West-Indies as I have before noted in the third Chapter of this Discourse I shall be most particular of them that blow in the Bay of Mexico and what Signs they give us before hand Commonly before a North the Weather is vety serene and fair the Sky clear and but little Wind and that too veering from its proper Point or the common Trade Wind of the Coast and breathing gently at S. at S. W. and West a Day or two before the North comes The Sea also gives notice of a Storm by an extraordinary and long Ebb. For a Day or two before a North there will be hardly any discernable Flood but a constant ebbing of the Sea And the Sea Fowls also before a Storm do commonly hover over the Land which they do not at other times use to do in such great flights and numbers All these Signs concurring may give any Man notice of an approaching Storm but the greatest and most remarkable Sign of a North is a very black Cloud in the N. W. rising above the Horizon to about 10 or 12 degrees the upper edge of the Cloud appears very even and smooth and when once the upper part of the Cloud is 6 8 10 or 12 degrees high there it remains in that even form parallel to the Horizon without any motion and this sometimes 2 or 3 Days before the Storm comes At other times not above 12 or 14 hours but never less This Cloud lying so near the Horizon is not seen but in the Mornings or Evenings at least it does not appear so black as then this is called by English Seamen a North Bank and when ever we see such a Cloud in that part of the World and in the Months before mentioned we certainly provide for a Storm and though sometimes it may happen that such a Cloud may appear several Mornings and Evenings and we may not feel the effects of it or but very little yet we always provide against it for a North never comes without such a foreboding Cloud But if the VVinds
as the Sun comes nearer the sky grows more cloudy and the Weather more moist for the Rains follow the Sun and begin on either side of the Equator within a little while after the Sun has crost the Equinox and so continue till after his return back again The wet Season on the North side of the Equator in the torrid Zone begins in April or May and so continues till September or October The dry Weather comes in November or December and continues till April or May. In South Latitudes the Weather changes at the same times but with this difference that the dry Months in South Latitude are wet Months in North Latitude and the contrary as I have said before Yet neither doe the wet or dry Seasons set in or go out exactly at one time in all Years neither are all places subject to wet or dry VVeather alike For in some places it rains less than in others and consequently there is more dry VVeather But generally Places that lye under the Line or near it have their greatest Rains in March and September head-Head-Lands or Coasts that lye most exposed to the Trade-winds have commonly the best share of dry Weather On the contrary deep Bays or bendings of the Land especially such as lye near the Line are most subject to Rains Yet even among Bays or Bendings there is a great deal of difference in the Weather as to dry or wet for the VVeather as well as the Winds seem to be much influenced by accidental Causes and those Causes themselves whatever they are seem to be subject to great variation But to proceed with Matter of Fact I shall begin with the dryest Coasts and first with that of Peru from 3 d. South to 30 d. South There it never Rains neither at Sea for a good distance off shore as for 250 or 300 Leagues no nor on the shore for a considerable way within Land though exactly how far I know not yet there are small Mists sometimes in a Morning for two or three Hours but seldom continuing after 10 a Clock and there are Dews also in the Night This Coast lyes N. and S. it has the Sea open to the VVest and a chain of very high Mountains running a long shore on the East the VVinds constantly Southerly as I said before in the second Chapter of VVinds. In which Head I have made a Comparison as well of the VVinds on the Coast of Africa in the same Latitude as of the lying of the Coasts Only there is this difference that the coasting Trade-winds on the American side do blow further from the Land than those on the African side VVhich difference may probably arise from the disproportion of the Mountains that are in the two Continents for 't is known that the Andes in America are some of the highest Mountains in the VVorld but whether there are any on the Continent of Africa in those Latitudes so high I know not I have not heard of any at least none such are visible to Seamen I come now to speak of the Weather on the African Coast which though 't is not so dry as the Coast of Peru yet is it the next to it The Weather there is very dry from March till October which is the dry Season The rainy Season which is from October till March is moderate without that excess that is in most other Places in those Latitudes so that the wettest Season can only be called so from some gentle showers of Rain There are some Tornadoes but not so many as are in any other Places both of the East or West Indies the Peruvian Coast excepted And if the height of the Andes are the cause that the true East Breez does not take place in the Pacifick Sea within 200 Leagues distance from the shore when yet the Trade blows within 40 Leagues of the African Coast that Coast may perphaps be supposed to want such high Mountains And if those American Mountains do stop the VVinds from their Career why may they not as well break the Clouds before they reach near the shore and be the cause of the dry VVeather there And seeing both Coasts do lye alike and the VVind is alike why should not the VVeather be the same were it not for the disproportion between the Mountains of these Coasts For the East side of those Mountains are supplied with Rain enough as may be known by the great Rivers that disembogue from thence into the Atlantick Sea whereas the Rivers on the South Sea-Coast are but very few and small some of which do wholly dry away for a good part of the Year But yet they constantly break-out again in their Seasons when the Rains in the Country do come which always fall on VVest side of those Mountains and this is about February As I have spoken before of dry Coasts so now I shall speak of rainy ones I shall begin with the Coast of Guinea from Cape Lopos which lies one degree South taking in the Bite or Bending of the Land and all the Coast VVest from thence as far as Cape Palmas This is a very wet Coast subject to violent Tornadoes and excessive Rains especially in July and August In those Months there is scarce any fait Day This Coast lies all of it very near the Equator and no where above 6 or 7 degrees distance so that from its nearness to the Equator only we might probably conjecture that it is a rainy Coast for most places lying near the Line are very subject to Rains yet some more than others and Guinea may be reckoned among the wettest Places in the World There may be Places where the Rains continue longer but none are more violent while they last And as its nearness to the Line may be a great cause of its moisture so by its situation also one would guess that it should be subject to a great deal of Rain because there is a great Bite or Bending in of the Land a little to the North of the Line and from thence the Land stretcheth West parallel with the Line And these Circumstances singly taken according to my observations do seldom fail but more especially where they both meet Yet there may be other causes that may hinder those Effects or at least serve to allay the violence of them as they do on some other Coasts I shall only instance in the opposite Coast of America between the North Cape which lies North of the Equator and Cape Blanco on Brazil in South Latitude Now this Land lyes much after the Form of the Coast of Guinea with this difference that one Coast lies in South Lat. the other lies North of the Equator both of these Promontories lay paralel with the Equator there 's not much difference in their distance from it but that which makes the difference is that one juts out Westward the other Eastward and so one is the very Westermost Land of the Continent of Africa the other is
the Eastermost Land of the Continent of America The one has only an eddy Wind which seems to me to be the Effect of two contrary Winds The other Coast lies open to the Trade and never wants a Breez And the former is troubled with Tornadoes and violent Rains during the wet Season which is May June July August and September but the extreamest wet Months are July and August when it rains in a manner continually April and October also sometimes are wet Months The other Coast on the American Continent which lyes open to the E. and N. E. or S. E. and which enjoys the freer Trade-Wind is less subject to Rain only as it lyes near the Line it has its part but not to excess nor in any comparison with Guinea And as the Line is to the N. of it so its wet Months are from October till April and the dry Season from April to October And these Seasons reach even to 6 or 7 degrees North of the Line which I do not know to be so in any other part of the World again Indeed Cape Lopes in Guinea is in one degree South yet participates of the same Weather that the rest of Guinea has which lies to the North of the Line Now the Reason why Europeans do account the dry Season Summer and the wet Season Winter is because the dry Season is their Harvest time especially in our Plantations where we chiefly make Sugar for then the Canes are as yellow as Gold They have then indeed less juce but that little there is is very sweet Whereas in the wet Season tho' the Canes are ripe and come to their Maturity yet do they not yield such quantities of Sugar neither is it so good though the pains in boiling it be also greater Therefore in Northern Climates as all our Plantations are in they commonly begin to work about making of Sugar at Christmas after the dry Season has brought the Canes to a good perfection But in South Climates as on the Coast of Brazil they begin to work in July Some Places there are in North Latitudes also near the Line where the Weather bears time with the Seasons in South Lat. as at Suranam which tho' it is in North Latitude yet are the Seasons there the same as in South Latitudes but I know not such another instance any where And though the dry Season is the time to gather in the Canes and the wet Season to plant yet are they not so limited as to make use only of these Seasons for either but do it chiefly for their best convenience for they may plant at any time of the Year and that with good success especially after a moderate shower of Rain which often happens even in the dry Seasons But I must proceed I have said before that Bays have greater Quantities of Rain than Head-Lands The Bay of Campeachy is a good Instance of this for the Rains are very great there especially in the Months of July and August On the contrary the Coast from Cape Catoch to Cape Condecedo which lies more exposed to the Trade has not near the Rains as the Bay of Campeachy hath The Bay of Honduras also is very wet and all that bending Coast from Cape Gratia de Dios even to Carthagena But on the Coast of Carraccos and about Cape La Vela where the Breezes are more brisk the Weather is more moderate Whereas in those little Bays between there is still a difference For in the Bay of Mericaya which lies a little to the East of Cape La Vela there is much more Rain than at or near the Cape The Bay of Panama also will furnish us with a proof of this by its immoderate Rains especially the South side of it even from the Gulph of St. Michael to Cape St. Francis the Rains there are from April till November but in June July and August they are most violent There are many small Bays also West from the Bay of Panama which have their shares of these wet Seasons as the Gulph of Dulce Caldera Bay Amapala c. but to the West of that where the Coast runs more plain and even there are not such wet Seasons yet many times very violent Tornadoes The East Indies also has many Bays that are subject to very violent Rains as the Bay of Tonqueen that of Siam the bottom and the East side of the Bay of Bengall But on the Coast of Coromandel which is the West side of that Bay the Weather is more moderate that being an even plain low Coast. But on the Coast of Mallabar which is on the West side of that Promontory the Land is high and mountainous there are violent Rains Indeed the West sides of any Continents are wetter than the East sides the Coast of Peru and Africa only excepted in the former of which the dryness may be occasioned as is said before by the height of the Andes And 't is probable that the violence of the Rains near those Mountains falls chiefly on the East sides of them and seldom reaches to their Tops which yet if the Rains do they may there be broke in pieces and reach no further For among other Observations I have taken notice that Mountains are supplied with more Rains than low Lands I mean the low Land bordering on the Sea As for instance the South side of Jamaica beginning at Leganea and from thence away to the Westward as far as Black River including all the plain Land and Savannahs about St. Jago de la Vega Old Harbour and Withy wood Savannahs This is a plain level Country for many Miles lying near East and West having the Sea on the South and bounded with Mountains on the North. Those Mountains are commonly supplied with Rain before the low Lands I have known the Rains to have begun there three Weeks before any has fallen in the plain Country bordering on the Sea yet every day I have observed very black Clouds over the Mountains and have heard it thunder there And those very Clouds have seemed by their Motion to draw towards the Sea but have been check'd in their Course and have either returned towards the Mountains again or else have spent themselves before they came from thence and so have vanished away again to the great grief of the Planters whose Plantations and Cattle have sufferd for want of a little Moisture Nay these Tornadoes have been so nigh that the Sea Breez has dyed away and we have had the Wind fresh out of the Clouds yet they have vanished and yielded no Rain to the low parch'd Lands And I think that the want of seasonable Showrs is one of the greatest Inconveniencies that this part of the Country suffers for I have known in some very dry Years that the Grass in the Savannahs has been burned and withered for want of Rain and the Cattle have perished thereby for want of Food The Plantations also have suffered very much by it but such dry Seasons
of the Trade Winds I shall instance Barbadoes for one and all the Carribbes may as well be included The greater Islands as Hispaniola Jamaica and Cuba have only some particular Capes or head-Head-Lands exposed to Currents as Cape Tiberoon on Hispaniola Point Pedro and the N. E. Point of Jamaica Cape de Cruz Cape Corientes and Cape Antonios on Cuba But of all the Islands in the West Indies there are none more sensible of Currents than Corrisao Aruba nor any Capes on the Continent so remarkable for Currents as Cape Roman which shoots out against the Sea betweenthose two Places as also Cape Coquibaco and Cape La Vela to Leeward all three on the same Head-Land which shoots forth far without any other Land on the Coast. There is no such Head-Land till you come to Cape Gratia de Dios which is about 260 Leagues to Leeward Indeed to the East-ward there is Land that trends out almost so far within 150 Leagues of it Viz. The Island Trinidado and the Land against it and there also are great Currents But I shall first speak of the Currents between Cape La Vela and Cape Gratia de Dios. The Currents at Cape La Vela do seldom shift therefore Ships that ply to Wind-ward to get about it do not ply near the shore but stand off to Sea till they come in sight of Hispaniola and then back again till within about 6 or 8 Leagues of the Cape but not nearer But in the Westerly Wind-Season which is from October till March Ships often meet Westerly Winds that last two or three Days with which they may run to the Eastward without any trouble Between Cape La Vela and Cape Gratia de Dios the Currents are much different from what they are against the Cape and this seems to proceed from the make of the Land for the shore between the two Capes runs into the Southward making a great Bay And this Bay affords more varieties of Winds and Currents than any one part of the West Indies besides Here in the Westerly Wind-Season the Current sets to the Westwards constantly but sometimes stronger than at other times At about four Leagues off shore you find it and so it continues till you are 20 25 or 30 Leagues off Beyond that you meet with an Easterly Wind and if there is any Current it runs also to the Westward therefore Ships that are bound to the Westward must run off to Sea Thirty or Forty Leagues to get a Wind or else if they have but a little way to go they must ply close under the shore that so they may Anchor when they please Otherwise they will be carried away to the Eastward Fourteen or Sixteen Leagues in a Nights time and that too though they have a faint Easterly Wind as frequently they meet with though 't is the Westerly Wind-Season To the East of Cape Roman as high as the Island Trinidado you meet only a soaking faint Current setting to the Westward except only near such places as shoot out farthest into the Sea as about the Testegos which are small Islands lying to Wind-ward of the Island Margarita Between those Islands and the Main you meet with a pretty strong Current therefore it is hard getting to the East-ward there but on all the Coast between Cape Roman and the head-Head-Land shooting out towards the Testegos you may ply up with the Land and Sea-Breezes From thence till you come as high as the East-end of Trinidado Isle you meet with an extraordinary strong Current From the East-end of Trinidado till you come to Surinam though you meet an Easterly Current yet 't is possible to beat it up with the Land and Sea-Breezes From Surianam also to Cape Blanco you may turn it up though to be sure you 'l meet with Currents setting to the West except near the Full of the Moon and then on all the Coasts before-mentioned we commonly meet with Currents setting to the Eastward at least then it slackens and stands still if it doth not run to the East-ward But when you are come as far to the East as Cape Blanco on the North of Brazil you meet with a Current always against you and so from thence Southerly as far as Cape St. Augustine There is no dealing with this Promontory for it shoots out so far into the Sea and thereby lies so exposed to the Sea-Breezes and the Currents that soak down between Africa and Brazil that it is quite contrary to reason to think there should not always be a strong Current setting to the N. W. I have before hinted That in all places where the Trade blows we find a Current setting with the Wind which is not so perceptible in the wide Sea as nearer the Shores yet even there the force of the Winds constantly blowing one way may and probably does move the surface of the Water along with it From hence it may be inferred that the Southerly Winds on the Coast of Africa and the true Trade between it and Brazil gently move the surface of the Sea with it and the Trade being mostly at S. E. drives the Sea to the Northward slanting in on the Coast of Brazil which being there stop'd by the Land bends its Course Northerly towards Cape St. Augustine And after it has doubled that great Promontory it falls away more gently towards the Coast of Suranam and from thence towards the West Indies For after it has doubled that Promontory it has more room to spread it self and thereby becomes weaker in motion being agitated by the Trade-winds which to the North of the Line we find commonly blowing at E. N. E. and this still bears the Sea slanting down along the Coast to the Westward And probably 't is for this Reason that we find the Current setting strongest near those Head-Lands before-mentioned Whereas at Barbadoes and other of the Caribee Islands we find only a soaking Current such as seems to arise only from the constancy of the Trade-winds blowing there and not from an original Current from the South part of the Atlantick which as I said before doubles about Cape St. Augustine and so Coasts along pretty nigh the shore The Currents about the Island Trinidado and at Currisao and Aruba as also between them and Cape Roman seem to indicate as much The Currents also between Cape Roman and Cape La Vela indicate the same From Cape La Vela the Currents set still to the Westward towards Cape Gratia de Dios but in a direct Line and not borrowing or slanting in towards the shore For as I said before it is a large Bay and Currents commonly set from one Head-Land to another so that Bays have seldom any or if they have they are only Counter Currents And these Counter Currents too do set from one Point to another without interfering with the little Bays between And 't is also very probable that these Counter Currents such as we meet with in this Bay in their Seasons after they have
it as I received it from my ingenious Friend Capt. Rogers who is lately gone to that Place and hath been there several times before THE Country of Natal takes up about 3 d. and half of Lat. from N. to S. lying between the lat of 31 d. 30 m. South and 28 S. 'T is bounded on the S. by a Country inhabited by a small Nation of Savage People called by our English Wild-bush-Men that live in Caves and in holes of Rocks and have no other Houses but such as are formed by Nature They are of a low stature tauny colour'd with crisped Hair They are accounted very cruel to their Enemies Their Weapons are Bows and poisoned Arrows These People have for their Neighbours on the S. the Hottantots Dellagoa is a Navigable River in Lat. 28 S. that bounds Natal on the N. The Inhabitants of this River have a Commerce with the Portuguese of Mozambique who oft visit them in small Barks and trade there for Elephants Teeth of which they have great plenty Some English too have lately been there to purchase Teeth particularly Capt. Freak just mentioned in my former Volume Ch. 23. P. 510. who after he had been in the River of Dellagoa and purchased 8 or 10 Tun of Teeth lost his Ship on a Rock near Madagascar The Country of Natal lies open to the Indian Sea on the East but how far back it runs to the Westward is not yet known That part of the Country which respects the Sea is plain Champion and Woody but within Land it appears more uneven by Reason of many Hills which rise in unequal Heights above each other Yet is it interlaced with pleasant Valleys and large Plains and 't is checker'd with Natural Groves and Savannahs Neither is there any want of Water for every Hill affords little Brooks which glide down several ways some of which after several turnings and windings meet by degrees and make up the River of Natal which dischargeth it self into the East Indian Ocean in the lat of 30 d. South There it opens pretty wide and is deep enough for small Vessels But at the Mouth of the River is a Bar which has not above 10 or 11 foot Water on it in a Spring-Tide Though within there is Water enough This River is the principal of the Country of Natal and has been lately frequented by some of our English Ships particularly by a small Vessel that Capt. Rogers formerly mentioned commanded There are also other Streams and Rivers which bend their Courses Northerly especially one of a considerable bigness about a â—…00 Mile within Land and which runs due North. The Woods are composed of divers sorts of Trees many of which are very good Timber and fit for any uses they being tall and large The Savannahs also are cloathed with kindly thick Grass The Land-Animals of this Country are Lyons Tigers Elephants Buffaloes Bullocks Deer Hogs Conies c. Here are also abundance of Sea-Horses Buffaloes and Bullocks only are kept tame but the rest are all wild Elephants are so plenty here that they feed together in great Troops 1000 or 1500 in a Company Mornings and Evenings they are seen grazing in the Savannahs but in the heat of the day they retire into the Woods and they are very peaceable if not molested Deer are very numerous here also They feed quietly in the Savannahs among the tame Cattle for they are seldom disturbed by the Natives Here are Fowls of divers sorts some such as we have in England viz. Duck and Teal both tame and wild and plenty of Cocks and Hens Besides abundance of will Birds wholly unknown to us Here are a sort of large Fowls as big as a Peacock which have many fine coloured Feathers They are very rare and shy There are other like Curlews but bigger The flesh of these is black yet sweet and wholesom Meat The Sea and Rivers also do abound in Fish of divers sorts yet the Natives do but seldom endeavour to take any except Tortoises and that is chiefly when they come ashore in the Night to lay their Eggs. Though they have also another very odd way which they sometimes make use of to catch Turtle or Tortoises They take a living sucking Fish or Remora and fastning a couple of strings to it one at the head and the other at the tail they let the sucking Fish down into the Water on the Turtle Ground among the half-grown or young Turtle and when they find that the Fish hath fastned himself to the back of a Turtle as he will soon do they then draw him and the Turtle up together This way of Fishing as I have heard is also used at Madagascar The Natives of this Covntry are but of a middle Stature yet have very good Limbs The Colour of their Skins is black their Hair crisped they are oval visaged their Noses neither flat nor high but very well proportioned their Teeth are white and their Aspect is altogether graceful They are nimble People but very lazy which probably is for want of Commerce Their chief Employment is Husbandry They have a great many Bulls and Cows which they carefully look after for every Man knows his own though they run all promisucously together in their Savannahs yet they have Pens near their own Houses where they make them gentle and bring them to the Pail They also plant Corn and fence in their Fields to keep out all Cattle as well tame as wild They have Guinea Corn which is their Bread and a small sort of Grain no bigger than Mustard-seed with which they make their drink Here are no Arts nor Trades profess'd among them but every one makes for himself such necessaries as Need or Ornament requires the Men keeping to their Employment and the Women to theirs The Men build Houses Hunt Plant and do what is to be done abroad And the Women milk the Cows dress the Victuals c. and manage all Matters within Doors Their Houses are not great nor richly furuished but they are made close and well thatched that neither Winds nor Weather can hurt them They wear but few Cloaths and those extraordinary mean The Men go in a manner naked their common Garb being only a square piece of Cloath made with Silk Grass or Moho Rind and wrought in form of a short Apron At the upper corners it has two straps to tye round their Wastes and the lower end being finely fringed with the same hangs down to their Knees They have Caps made with Beef Tallow of about 9 or 10 Inches high They are a great while a making these Caps for the Tallow must be made very pure before 't is fit for this use Besides they lay on but a little at a time and mixt it finely among the Hair and so it never afterwards comes off their heads When they go a Hunting which is but seldom they pare off 3 or 4 Inches from the top of it that so it may sit the snugger but the next
aim'd at by the Spaniards lay about a mile off with a Canoa at the Buoy of his Anchor as fearing some Treachery from our pretended Merchant and a little before the Bark blew up he saw a small Float on the Water and as it appeared a Man on it making towards his Ship but the Man dived and disappeared of a sudden as thinking probably that he was discovered This was supposed to be one coming with some combustible matter to have stuck about the Rudder For such a trick Captain Sharp was served at Coquimbo and his Ship had like to have been burnt by it if by meer accident it had not been discovered I was then aboard Captain Sharp's Ship Captain Swan seeing the Blaze by us cut his Cables as we did his Bark did the like so we kept under sail all the night being more scared than hurt The Bark that was on fire drove burning towards Tobago but after the first blast she did not burn clear only made a smother for she was not well made though Captain Bond had the framing and management of it This Captain Bond was he of whom I made mention in my 4th Chapter He after his being at the Isles of Cape Verd stood away for the South Seas at the instigation of one Richard Morton who had been with Captain Sharp in the South Seas In his way he met with Captain Eaton and they two consorted a day or two at last Morton went aboard of Captain Eaton and perswaded him to lose Captain Bond in the night which Captain Eaton did Morton continuing aboard of Captain Eaton as finding his the better Ship Captain Bond thus losing both his Consort Eaton and Morton his Pilot and his Ship being but an ordinary Sailer he despaired of getting into the South Seas and he had plaid such tricks among the Caribbee Isles as I have been informed that he did not dare to appear at any of the English Islands Therefore he perswaded his Men to go to the Spaniards and they consented to do any thing that he should propose so he presently steered away into the West Indies and the first place where he came to an anchor was at Portobel He presently declared to the Governour that there were English Ships coming into the South Seas and that if they questioned it he offered to be kept a Prisoner till time should discover the truth of what he said but they believed him and sent him away to Panama where he was in great esteem This several Prisoners told us The Spaniards of Panama could not have fitted out their Fireship without this Captain Bond 's assistance for it is strange to say how grossly ignorant the Spaniards in the West Indies but especially in the South Seas are of Sea-affairs They build indeed good Ships but this is a small matter for any Ship of a good bottom will serve for these Seas on the South Coast. They rig their Ships but untowardly have no Guns but in 3 or 4 of the Kings Ships and are as meanly furnished with Warlike Provisions and as much at a loss for the making any Fireships or other less usual Machines Nay they have not the sence to have their Guns run within the sides upon their discharge but have Platforms without for the Men to stand on to charge them so that when we come near we can fetch them down with small shot out of our Boats A main reason of this is that the Native Spaniards are too proud to be Seamen but use the Indians for all those Offices one Spaniard it may be going in the Ship to command it and himself of little more knowledge than those poor ignorant creatures nor can they gain much Experience seldom going far off to Sea but coasting along the shores But to proceed In the morning when it was light we came again to an anchor close by our Buoys and strove to get our Anchors again but our Buoy-Ropes being rotten broke While we were puzzling about our Anchors we saw a great many Canoas full of Men pass between Tabago and the other Island This put us into a new consternation we lay still some time till we saw that they came directly towards us then we weighed and stood towards them and when we came within hale we found that they were English and French Privateers come out of the North Seas through the Isthmus of Darien They were 280 Men in 28 Canoas 200 of them French the rest English They were commanded by Captain Gronet and Captain Lequie We presently came to an Anchor again and all the Canoas came aboard These Men told us that there were 180 English Men more under the Command of Captain Townley in the Country of Darien making Canoas as these Men had been to bring them into these Seas All the English Men that came over in this Party were immediately entertain'd by Captain Davis and Captain Swan in their own Ships and the French Men were ordered to have our Flower Prize to carry them and Captain Gronet being the eldest Commander was to command them there and thus they were all disposed of to their hearts content Captain Gronet to retalliate this kindness offered Captain Davis and Captain Swan each of them a new Commission from the Governor of Petit Guavres It has been usual for many years past for the Governor of Petit Guavres to send blank Commissions to Sea by many of his Captains with orders to dispose of them to whom they saw convenient Those of Petit-Guavres by this means making themselves the Sanctuary and Asylum of all People of desperate Fortunes and increasing their own Wealth and the Strength and Reputation of their Party thereby Captain Davis accepted of one having before only an old Commission which fell to him by Inheritance at the decease of Captain Cook who took it from Captain Thristian together with his Bark as is before mentioned But Captain Swan refused it saying he had an order from the Duke of York neither to give offence to the Spaniards nor to receive any affront from them and that he had been injured by them at Baldivia where they had kill'd some of his Men and wounded several more so that he thought he had a lawful Commission of his own to right himself I never read any of these French Commissions while I was in these Seas nor did I then know the import of them but I have learnt since that the Tenour of them is to give a Liberty to fish fowl and hunt The occasion of this is that the Island of Hispaniola where the Garrison of Petit-Guavres is belongs partly to the French and partly to the Spaniards and in time of Peace these Commissions are given as a Warrant to those of each side to protect them from the adverse Party but in effect the French do not restrain them to Hispaniola but make them a pretence for a general ravage in any part of America by Sea or Land Having thus disposed of our Associates
we intended to sail towards the Gulf of St. Michael to seek Captain Townley who by this time we thought might be entring into these Seas Accordingly the second day of March 1685. we sail'd from hence towards the Gulf of St. Michael This Gulf lyes near 30 leagues from Panama toward the S. E. The way thither from Panama is to pass between the Kings Islands and the Main It is a place where many great Rivers having finished their courses are swallowed up in the Sea It is bounded on the S. with Point Garachina which lyeth in North lat 6d 40 m. and on the North side with Cape St. Lorenzo Where by the way I must correct a gross error in our common Maps which giving no name at all to the South Cape which yet is the most considerable and is the true Point Garachina do give that name to the North Cape which is of small remark only for those whose business is into the Gulf and the name St. Lorenzo which is the true name of this Northern Point is by them wholly omitted the name of the other Point being substituted into its place The chief Rivers which run into this Gulf of St. Michael are Santa Maria Sambo and Congos The River Congos which is the River I would have perswaded our men to have gone up as their nearest way in our Journey over Land mentioned Chap. 1. comes directly out of the Country and swallows up many small Streams that fall into it from both sides and at last loseth itself on the North side of the Gulf a league within Cape St. Lorenzo It is not very wide but deep and navigable some leagues within land There are Sands without it but a Channel for Ships 'T is not made use of by the Spaniards because of the neighbourhood of Santa Maria River where they have most business on account of the Mines The River of Sambo seems to be a great River for there is a great tyde at its mouth but I can say nothing more of it having never been in it This River falls into the Sea on the South side of the Gulf near Point Garachina Beyond the mouth of these 2 Rivers on either side the Gulf runs in towards the Land somewhat narrower and makes 5 or 6 small Islands which are cloathed with great Trees green and flourishing all the year and good Channels between the Islands Beyond which further in still the shore on each side closes so near with 2 Points of low Mangrove Land as to make a narrow or streight scarce half a mile wide This serves as a mouth or entrance to the inner part of the Gulf which is a deep Bay 2 or 3 leagues over every way and about the East end thereof are the mouths of several Rivers the chief of which is that of Santa Maria. There are many outlets or Creeks besides this narrow place I have described but none navigable beside that For this reason the Spanish Guard-Ship mention'd in Chap. 1. chose to lye between these two Points as the only passage they could imagine we should attempt since this is the way that the Privateers have generally taken as the nearest between the North and South Seas The River of Santa Maria is the largest of all the Rivers of this Gulf It is navigable 8 or 9 leagues up for so high the tyde flows Beyond that place the River is divided into many Branches which are only fit for Canoas The tyde rises and falls in this River about 18 foot About 6 leagues from the Rivers mouth on the South side of it the Spaniards about 20 years ago upon their first discovery of the Gold Mines here built the Town Santa Maria of the same name with the River This Town was taken by Captain Coxon Captain Harris and Captain Sharp at their entrance into these Seas it being then but newly built Since that time it is grown considerable for when Captain Harris the Nephew of the former took it as is said in Chap. 6. he found in it all sorts of Tradesmen with a great deal of Flower and Wine and abundance of Iron Crows and Pickaxes These were Instruments for the Slaves to work in the Gold Mines for besides what Gold and Sand they take up together they often find great lumps wedg d between the Rocks as if it naturally grew there I have seen a lump as big as a Hens Egg brought by Captain Harris from thence who took 120 pound there and he told me that there were lumps a great deal bigger but these they were forc'd to beat in pieces that they might divide them These lumps are not so solid but that they have crevises and pores full of Earth and Dust. This Town is not far from the Mines where the Spaniards keep a great many Slaves to work in the dry time of the year but in the rainy season when the Rivers do overflow they cannot work so well Yet the Mines are so nigh the mountains that as the Rivers soon rise so they are soon down again and presently after the rain is the best searching for Gold in the Sands for the violent rains do wash down the Gold into the Rivers where much of it settles to the bottom and remains Then the Native Indians who live hereabouts get most and of them the Spaniards buy more Gold than their Slaves get by working I have been told that they get the value of 5 Shillings a day one with another The Spaniards withdraw most of them with their Slaves during the wet season to Panama At this Town of St. Maria Captain Townley was lying with his Party making Canoas when Captain Gronet came into the Seas for it was then abandoned by the Spaniards There is another small new Town at the mouth of the River called the Scuchaderoes It stands on the North side of the open place at the mouth of the River of St. Maria where there is more air than at the Mines or at Santa Maria Town where they are in a manner stifled with heat for want of air All about these Rivers especially near the Sea the Land is low it is deep black Earth and the Trees it produceth are extraordinary large and high Thus much concerning the Gulf of St. Michael whit'er we were bound The second day of March as is said before we weighed from Perico and the same night we anchored again at Pacheque The third day we sailed from thence steering towards the Gulf. Captain Swan undertook to fetch off Captain Townly and his Men therefore he kept near the Main but the rest of the Ships stood nearer the Kings Islands Captain Swan desired this office because he intended to send Letters over-land by the Indians to Jamaica which he did ordering the Indians to deliver his Letters to any English Vessel in the other Seas At 2 a clock we were again near the place where we clean'd our Ships There we saw two Ships coming out who proâ—…d to be Captain Townly and
Southward of the Streights first mouth and were gotten to the Southermost Entrance near the Sumatra shore but Captain Lacy who chose to go the old way made sail again to the Northward and so passed nearer the Malacca shore by the Sincapore the way we went before His was also the best and nearest way but Captain Weldon was willing to satisfie his curiosity and try a new passage which we got thro tho we had but little depth of water and this Entrance we past is called Brewers Streights Brewers Streights are sometimes passed by small Ships that sail from Batavia to Malacca because for them it is a nearer cut than to run so far as Pulo Timaon or the Streights of Sincapore In this Channel tho in some places we found but 14 or 15 foot water yet the bottom was soft Oaze and it lies so among Islands that there cannot go a great Sea Captain Weldon had also a Dutch man aboard who had been this way and he professing to know the Channel incouraged our Captain to try it which we effected very well tho sometimes we had but little more water than we drew This made us make but an easy Sail and therefore we were 7 or 8 days before we arrived at Malacca but Captain Lacy was there 2 or 3 days before us Here we first heard of the Death of Constant Falcon for whom Captain Brewster seemed to be much concerned There also we found besides several Dutch Sloops and our Companion Captain Lacy an English Vessel of 35 or 40 Tuns This Vessel was bought by one Captain Johnson who was sent by the Governor of Bencouli in a small Sloop to Trade about the Island of Sumatra for Pepper but Captain Johnson being killed the Sloop was brought hither by one Mr. Wells Being thus insensibly fallen into the mention of this Captain Johnson and intending to defer what little I have to say of Malacca till my coming thither again from Achin I shall bestow the rest of this Chapter in speaking of this mans Tragedy and other occurences relating to it which tho of no great moment in themselves yet the Circumstances I shall have occasion to relate with them may be of use to the giving some small light into the state of the opposite Coast of Sumatra which was the Scene of what I am going to speak of for tho I shall have other occasion to speak of Achin and Bencouli yet I shall not have opportunity to say any thing of this part oft hat Island opposite to Malacca unless I do it here To go on therefore with his Story it seems Captain Johnson was part owner of the small Bencooly Sloop but thinking it too small for his turn he came to Malacca intending to buy a larger Sloop of the Dutch if he could light on a bargain He had the best part of a thousand Dollars in Spanish money aboard for which one may purchase a good Sloop here for the Dutch as I have before observ'd do often buy Proe-bottoms for a small matter of the Malayans especially of the people of Jihore and convert them into Sloops either for their own use or to sell. Of these sort of Vessels therefore the Dutch men of Malacca have plenty and can afford good pennyworths and doubtless it was for this reason that Captain Johnson came hither to purchase a Sloop Here he met with a bargain not such a Proe-bottom reformed but an old ill shaped thing yet such a one as pleased him The Dutch man who sold him this Vessel told him withal that the Government did not allow any such dealings with the English tho they might wink at it and that therefore the safest way for them both to keep out of trouble would be to run over to the other side the Streights to a Town called Bancalis on Sumatra where they might safely buy and sell or exchange without any notice taken of them Captain Johnson accepting the offer they sailed both together over to Bancalis a Malayan Town on that Coast commanding the Country about it There they came to an anchor and Captain Johnson paying the price agreed on for the Vessel he had her delivered to him The Dutchman immediately returned over to Malacca again leaving Captain Johnson with 2 Vessels under his Command viz. the Sloop that he brought from Bencooly and this new bought Vessel The Bencooly Sloop he sent into a large River hard by to Trade with the Malayans for Pepper under the Command of Mr. Wells He was no Seaman but a pretty intelligent person that came first out of England as a Soldier to serve the East India Company in the Island Santa Helena He lived sometime very meanly in that Island but having an aspiring mind he left that poor but healthy place to serve the Company at Bencooly which tho 't is accounted the most unhealthy place of any that we Trade too yet the hopes of preferment engaged him to remove thither After some stay there he was sent with Captain Johnson to assist him in this Pepper expedition more because he could use his Pen than his Hands in Sea service He had 3 or 4 raw Seamen with him to work the Sloop up into the River Captain Johnson stayed near Bancalis to fit his new Vessel for with other necessaries she wanted a new Boltsprit which he intended to cut here having a Carpenter with him for that purpose as also to repair and fit her to his mind He had also a few other raw Seamen but such as would have made better Landmen they having served the King of Siam as Soldiers and they were but lately come from thence with the French who were forced to leave that Country But here in the Indies our English are forced for want of better to make use of any Seamen such as they can get and indeed our Merchants are often put hard to it for want of Seamen Here are indeed Lascars or Indian Seamen enough to be hired and these they often make use of yet they always covet an English man or 2 in a Vessel to assist them Not but that these Lascars are some of them indifferent good Sailers and might do well enough but an English man will be accounted more faithful to be employed on matters of moment beside the more free Conversation that may be expected from them during the term of the Voyage So that tho oft times their English men are but ordinary Sailers yet they are promoted to some charge of which they could not be so capable any where but in the East Indies These Seamen would be in a manner wholly useless in Europe where we meet with more frequent and hard storms but here they serve indifferent well especially to go and come with the Monsoons but enough of that Mr. Wells being gone to purchase Pepper Capt. Johnson went ashore about 5 or 6 leagues from Bancalis Town with his Carpenter to cut a Boltsprit there being there plenty of Timber Trees fit for his
and fall about 8 or 9 foot and the Flood there runs to the East and the Ebb to the West In the Gulph of Dulce and Neicoya River they rise to 10 or 11 Foot but on the Coast of Peru they don't rise so high especially on all the Coast between Cape St. Francis and the River Guiaquil there the Flood runs to the South and the Ebb to the North. At the Island Plata the Tide rises and falls 3 or 4 Foot but from Cape Blanco in about 3 d. South to 30 d. South the Tides are smaller there they rise and fall not above a Foot and a half or 2 Foot The Flood on this Coast sets to the South and the Ebb to the North. In all my Crusings among the Privateers I took notice of the risings of the Tides because by knowing it I always knew where we might best hall ashore and clean our ships which is also greatly observed by all Privateers In most Places of the West Indies the Tide flows but little over what it does in our Channel In the East Indies also the Tides are but small on most Coasts neither are they so regular as with us The most irregular Tides that I did ever meet with are at Tonqueen in about 20d North Latitude and on the Coast of New Holland in about 17 d. South In both these places the neap Tides are scarce discernable Those of Tonqueen are described at large by Mr. Davenport who was imployed by Mr. James when he was chief of the English Factors there to observe them And the whole Discourse is published in The Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society whither I refer you At New Holland I had two Months time to observe the Tides There the Flood runs E. by N. and the Ebb W. by S. And they rise and fall about five Fathom In all the Springs that we lay here the highest were 3 Days after the Full or Change and that without any perceptible Cause in the Winds or Weather I must confess we were startled at it and though some of us had observed it in the Springs that happened while we lay on the Sand to clean our Ship as I have mentioned in my former Volume Entituled A New Voyage round the World Ch. XVI Page 471. yet in that Spring that we designed to hall off in order to be gone from thence we did all take more particular notice of it than in the preceding Springs for many had not taken notice of it before And therefore the Major part of the Company supposing that it was a mistake in us who made those former Observations expected to hall off the Ship the third Tide after the Change but our Ship did not float then nor the next Tide neither which put them all into an amazment and a great Consternation too For many thought we should never have got her off at all but by dig-ging away the Sand and so clearing a Passage for her into the Sea But the sixth Tide cleared all those doubts for the Tide then rose so high as to float her quite up when being all of us ready to work we hall'd her off and yet the next Tide was higher than that by which we were now all throughly satisfied that the Tides here do not keep the same time as they do in England This I must also observe That here was no River nor Lagune nor any other Indraught on the Land near us that might occasion these great Tides tho 't is very probable that the great Bending between New Holland and New Guinea may have both Rivers and Lagunes which may cause these great Tides or else there may be a Passage of the Sea between both Places as it is laid down in some Draughts Or if neither of these there may be at least a large and deep Sound This is the more probable because of the extraordinary Flood that sets to the East-ward in all that Sea between New Holland and the Islands lying North of it which we most sensibly perceived when we were near New Holland And such a Tide as this must of necessity have a greater Indraught than barely a River or Lagune and 't is the more likely still that this Tide should have a Passage through between New Holland and New Guinea or at least a deep Sound there because it keeps along by the Main and doth not run in among the Islands to the North of it And besides the Northermost Promontory of New Holland shoots down almost to the Line which seems to be a Barrier to it on that side therefore it may in reason be supposed to have its Passage some other way but of this guess I have said enough In the Streights of Malacca the Flood sets to the East and the Ebb to the West I have found the Tides at Malacca Town to rise and fall about six Foot on a Spring I had the Experience of two Spring-Tides when I was Captain Minchins Mate as is before-mentioned in my Voyage from Achin to Malacca On the East-side of the African Coast between the Cape of Good Hope and the Red-Sea the Tide keeps its constant Course The Flood runs to the South-ward the Ebb to the North-ward And at a Spring-tide in the Rivers on that Coast the Tide rises and falls six Foot especially in the River of Natal in Lat. 30 d. South I have this Relation from Capt. Rogers who is a very ingenious Person and well experienced on that Coast and is now gone Commander of a small Vessel thither to Trade Having already largely treated of Tides I come now to speak somewhat of Currents CUrrents and Tides differ many ways for Tides run forward and back again twice every 24 Hours on the contrary Currents run a Day a Week nay sometimes more one way and then it may be run another way In some particular Places they run six Months one way and six Months another In other Places they constantly run one way only a day or two about Full Moon and then they run strong against the former Course and after that return the same way again In some Places they run constantly one way and never shift at all The force of Tides is generally felt near the shore whereas Currents are at a remote distance neither are the Effects of them sensibly decerned by the rising or falling away of the Water as those of the Tides are for these commonly set along shore 'T is generally observed by Seamen that in all Places where Trade-winds blow the Current is influenced by them and moves the same way with the Winds but 't is not with a like swiftness in all Places neither is it always so discernable by us in the wide Ocean as it is near to some Coast and yet it is not so discernable neither very near any Coast except at Capes and Promontories that shoot far forth out into the Sea and about Islands also the Effects of them are felt more or less as they lye in the way