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A28496 Irelands naturall history being a true and ample description of its situation, greatness, shape, and nature, of its hills, woods, heaths, bogs, of its fruitfull parts, and profitable grounds : with the severall ways of manuring and improving the same : with its heads or promontories, harbours, roads, and bays, of its springs, and fountains, brooks, rivers, loghs, of its metalls, mineralls, free-stone, marble, sea-coal, turf, and other things that are taken out of the ground : and lastly of the nature and temperature of its air and season, and what diseases it is free from or subject unto : conducing to the advancement of navigation, husbandry, and other profitable arts and professions / written by Gerald Boate ; and now published by Samuell Hartlib for the common good of Ireland and more especially for the benefit of the adventurers and planters therein. Boate, Gerard, 1604-1650.; Hartlib, Samuel, d. 1662. 1657 (1657) Wing B3373; ESTC R27215 105,129 208

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Wexford to the point of Glasearick from which place to the bay of Dublin being about fifty miles the coast is full of inlets where it is very good anchoring in good sand ground especially to the North of Arkloe-head in a fair sand bay every where in eight seven or five fathomes and between Arkloe and Missen-head being the space of six or seaven miles In the mouth of the Bay of Dublin at this side of the Bar is good anchoring as well on the South side before the Village Dalkee which place is known by the name of Berton Road as on the North-side round about that great Cape named the Head of Houth Between Strangford-haven and the Bay of Knockfergus are divers good Anchoring-places but all that Coast is very foul with Rocks and blind Rocks To the North of Knockfergus are divers inlets where one may come to an Anchor there are some Rocks but they all stand above the water so as easily they may be shunned Sect. 8. The rest of the Roads upon the coast of Ireland To the West of Fair-foreland the coast is flat and clean so as there ships may Anchor every where in eight and nine fathoms Under the point of Eniston on the West-side one may Anchor for Easterly winds or to stop the tide Between Loughsuille and Sheeps-haven is an inlet where Ships may come to an Anchor but the ground is somwhat foul On the West-side of Cape-horn Ships may ride at Anchor for Easterly winds And along the whole coast between Cape-horn and the Iles of Aran is every where good Anchor-ground as also upon the West-coast between St. Johns-point and Dungal-haven being the space of five or six miles In the Sound of Blaskets it is good Anchoring on the South-side of the point for Northern and Western and on the North-side for the contrary windes On both sides of the Old-head of Kinsal● by the Dutch Mariners called Cape Velho ships may Anchor as deep or shallow as they will There is also a good inlet for to Anchor in a few miles beyond the Haven of Cork and on the East-side of Ardimore-head is a Bay where it is good riding for Westerly winds in seven or eight fathoms There is also a good Anchoring place or two betwixt Dungarvan and the Haven of Waterford Sect. 9. Roads in the Ilands of Salters Dalkee Irelands-Eye and Lambay As for the Roads in the Ilands about half way betwix Waterford haven and Carnarord lie two litle Ilands a mile or two from the land called Salters the Southmost whereof which lyeth furthest from the land is much bigger than the other ships may passe between these two Ilands in five six and seven fathoms On the East-side of the lesser Iland is a good Road to come to an anchor in seven or eight fathoms where ships may ride in safety for South-West West and North-West winds and on the North-West-side of the bigger Iland ships may anchor in seven eight or nine fathoms the Road being defended off South-South-East and East-South-East winds Close by the South point of Dublin-bay lyeth a small Iland called Dalkee betwixt which and the Main land passeth a Sound seven eight and nine fathoms deep in which you may anchor under the Iland On the North-side of the head of Houth lyeth another small Iland scarce half a mile in compas where-in as also in Dalkee no body inhabiteth both serving only for to feed cattell having a decayed ●hapell on the West-side over against which ships may come to an anchor Three or four miles beyond Irelands Ey lyeth the I le of Lambry belonging to Sir William Vsher of Dublin who hath there a fine litle Castle of free stone and close by it a village wherein dwell divers families of Fishers and Husband-men who plow part of this Iland and upon the the rest seed cattell and sheep The whole Iland being about three miles in compas is high land wherefore it may be seen a great way off On the North-side of this Iland ships may anchor in twelve and thirteen fathoms for a Southerly wind For a Sea-wind the ships must ride on the West-side over against the Castle but that Road is not very good because alwayes in that Sound being about three miles broad goeth a great Sea Sect. 10. Roads in the rest of the litle Ilands about Ireland Right against the Promontory of Fair-Foreland lyeth the Iland Raghleens where ships may sail round about as well at the out side as betwixt it and the land according as the wind and tide serve On the South-West side is a fair Bay with very fine Sand-ground where ships may ride defended off all winds A litle way on this side and to the East of Brandhaven lyeth Skires Portrush a Rockie Iland the which on the South-side hath a fair Bay very good Sand-ground where ships may anchor in six or seven fathoms being sheltred of all winds except the East-North-East wind the which along the Coast doth directly blow upon it There is a good Road on the South-East-side of the I le of Aran situated on the North-West-side of Ireland and betwixt this Iland and the Main there lye three or four small Iles where ships may anchor in divers places and be secured off all winds There is also a good Road for some winds under Eneskie Iland the middlemost of the three Ilands situated betwixt Akill head and Sline-head called Boche where is good anchoring in four fathoms under the Northern-most Iland of those three lying in the mouth of the Bay of Galloway under Enis Morrow one of the Blaskees under Dorses I le lying betwixt the Bayes of Maire and Bantree in the Sound which passeth betwixt the same I le and the Main land Ten or twelve miles to the East of Cork-haven lyeth an Iland called Balle-cotton where ships may anchor in five or six fathoms for Westerly and Southerly winds There is also a good Road on the East-side of Capel-Iland a little I le lying three or four miles from the mouth of the Haven of Youghall CHAP. IV. Quality and fashion of the Irish Coast or Shoares Item a brief description of the principall Promontories or Heads of Ireland Sect. 1. Of the low and Strandie Shoares of Ireland THe Irish Coast is not every where alike but of severall sorts In some places the land along the Sea is low and flat having a broad sandy strand with a row of sandy hills the which doth part the land from the strand in the same maner as it is upon all the Coast of Holland and Flaunders where these kind of hils are called Duynen or Downes only with this difference that they are not so large nor high as in the Low-Countries and that the rowes of them take up but a little space in breadth This kind of Strand is in most parts of Fingall being a portion of the Countie of Dublin Northwards towards Tredagh and a good way beyond that and els where In other places ly no Downes or Sandy hills
Sands or Grounds as any in all the world not alone upon the other sides where the same is wide and open far distant from all other lands but upon the East-side where the same is inclosed betwixt Ireland and Great-Britain in which whole space it hath not any other Sands than those situated along the coast between Dublin and Wexford These indeed are of a huge extent but not turning and winding as most part of the Grounds in other places but in a streight line North-North-East South-South-West being farthest from the land with their North-end and as they go Southward so they do come nearer to the land and near the Tuskar a Rock right against the point of Greenore in which place they end they are not much more than two miles distant from the land whereas the distance betwixt the North-end near the Iland Dalkee which Iland as before we have shewed lyeth at the entrance of Dublin-bay about threescore miles from the Tuskar is above eight miles They are all of a Stoney-ground in some places but one fathom deep and a fathom and a half but in the North-end two fathoms and a half and three fathoms Betwixt these Grounds and the land lye two or three little Sands besides those which lye in and before the mouth of the Bay of Wexford one betwixt the South-end and Greenore another to the South of the Head of Glascarick a good mile from the land called Rush and Ram and a third one mile to the South of Arcklohead called Glaskermen somewhat more than half a mile from the land and about two miles long Sect. 2. Of the Chanel betwixt the Land and the forenamed Grounds The Chanel betwixt the great Grounds and the land is very deep all over so that the biggest vessels may pass through it from Dublin to Wexford and from Wexford to Dublin taking care only that they doe not come too neer the Grounds the which being very steep on the inside as they are also without or on the East-side where ships may not come neerer to them than in 24. and 25. fathoms because that in twenty fathomes one is close by them it is requisite not to goe further off from the land than in seven or eight fathoms in which depth ships may within a cabels length sail all along the coast the which here every where is very clean and free from all danger And even between the land and the forenamed small Grounds Glaskermen and Rush and Ram the Sea is very clean and deep so as most ships doe passe betwixt them and the land and not about by the out side of them These Sands in four severall places are cut thorough with fair broad and deep chanells whereof the one is over against the Bay of Wexford the other against Glascarick beeing no less than fifteen or sixteen fathoms deep the third right against Arckloe in which chanel it is about seven or eight fathoms deep and the fourth is directly against Wickloe Sect. 3. Blind Rocks upon the coast of Ireland from the Saltees unto Wickloe There are some blind Rock in this Sea but lye for the most part close under the land or neer some of the litle Ilands or high Rocks so as they may easily be shunned the rather because most of them doe at low water appear either in part or altogether To speak a litle of these in order the Saltees two litle Ilands situated half way between the Haven of Waterford and and the head of Carnarord of the which hath been spoken heretofore have both at the North-side some blind Rocks whereof those which ly neer the bigger and Southermost Iland fall dry at low water About three miles to the South of the same bigger Iland lyeth a blind Rock called Kinmore of the bignes of a ship at half ebbe it cometh above water and is so steep that with the side of a ship one may ly close against it and have fourteen fathomes of water so as without any danger one may sail very close by it To the South-East of the fore named bigger Iland doe also lye some blind Rocks called the Frailes the which may be seen at low water and ships may passe through the midst of them About half a mile from Blackrock a noted Rock whereof shall be spoken anon lyeth a blind Rock called the Barrell of the which one must take heed very carefully A little to the West of Carnarord lyeth a small Rocky foul close under the land Betwixt Carnarord and St Margarets Bay it is foul and Rocky but the foul grounds doe not reach far into the Sea South-South-East from St Margarets Bay lyeth a blind Rock called Caliogh the which at low water falleth dry From the point of Greenore a riffe of blind Rocks and Stones runneth almost the length of a mile into the Sea the which at low water falleth dry a good way from the land At the North-side of the Head of Arcklo lyeth a litle Stony row the which is shunned very carefully by the ships not daring to come neerer to it than in five fathoms of water Sect. 4. The rest of the blind Rocks upon the coast of Ireland Iust to the South of the head of Wickloe a little way from the land lyeth a Rocky sand called Horse-shoe betwixt which and the land ships may sail thorough if need be but that being full of danger it is done very seldome and a little further to the South lyeth a little blind Rock close by the land called the Wolfe the which at half ebb cometh above water betwixt which and the land fishers boats doe passe The like blind Rocks Rockie sands lye upon the coast betwixt Tredagh and Dundalk as also betwixt Dundalk and Carlingford in both places close under the land at both the points of the Havens of Carlingford Strangford under St Iohns point situated half way between those two Havens on both sides of those two great Rocks a litle way beyond Strangford Haven called Southrock and Northrock between the Ilands of Copland Iles and the land at the South-point of the bay of Knockfergus round about those great Rocks over against Oldfleet called the nine maids to the West of the little Iland called Sheeps-Iland betwixt Port Belletree and Skires Portrush which Rocks are called the Chickens half-way betwixt Lough-Suillie and Sheeps-Haven a mile or two from the land which Rocks the flood doth cover but at ebbe they come above water in severall other places upon the West-coast the South-coast the which it would be tedious all to particularise wherfore we will conclude this rehearsall of the Blind Rocks with that which to the West of St Iohns point a point situated three or four mile Southwards from Kilbeg-haven doth lye somwhat more than a mile off from the land upon which the Sea breaketh with great noise and nevertheless one may freely and without any danger sail between the same and the land Sect. 5. Rocks in the Irish Sea upon the
with severall of those Gentlemen whom the bloody combustions of Ireland had driven away thence and made to resort to London he beeing very well acquainted with them especially with Sir William Parsons and Sir Richard Parsons which two having above all others a very perfect insight into that land into all matters ' belonging to the same were wonderfull well able to satisfie any of those Questions which from time to time he propounded unto them either about those things that he had already learned of me or about such others of which hee had forgot to speak to me or on which I had not been able fully to inform him In this maner he brought that Work together the which to accomplish yet further he sent to me still as much as he had finished desiring me to review it diligently and to adde put out or alter what I should see cause wherein also as in the first informations I was not wanting to contribute what ever was necessary as far forth as my knowledge did reach unto and according to those Observations unto which I had very studiously and with singular delight applied my self during those eight yeares that I lived in that Iland whereunto I had so much the more opportunity because that as my constant abode was in Dublin so I made very many journeys into the Countrie by meanes therof saw great part of it especially of the Provinces of Leinster and Ulster and by reason thereof also it would be an easie matter for me to make-up those parts of this work which are still wanting Thus I beleeve to have fully taken away the forementioned Objection and to have given you as perfect an account about the grounds the manner of the writing of this Naturall History as was expected by you And having nothing else to trouble you with all at the present I shall end these with my most hearty wishes that notwithstanding any discouragements or any want of incouragement you would still goe on in that most commendable purpose of furthering as much as in you lieth all manner of reall and profitable knowledge the which indeed hitherto you have done so largely on very many occasions as must needs greatly redound to the generall good of Mankind and make your memory precious to them in all future ages Your most affectionate and humble servant ARNOLD BOATE Paris 10 20 Aug. IRELANDS NATVRALL HISTORY CHAP. I. Of the situation shape and greatness of Ireland it 's division into Provinces and Counties of the English Pale the principall towns of that Nation Sect. 1. Situation of Ireland IReland by the Irish themselves called Erin and by their neighbours the Welsh Yverdon lyeth in the North-west Ocean having on the West-side no land nearer than America or the West-Indi●s and thereof that part which above Nova francia and Canada running North-ward hath of the English received the name of New-Britain but of other Nations before of Terra Laboratoris The next land over against it on the South is Galicia one of the Kingdomes of Spain from which it lyeth divided some dayes sayling Northwards it hath the Scotish Ilands by the Geographers called Hebrides or Hebudes the principall of which are Eust Lewis Skye Ila Mula On the East-side is Great-Brittain and all the three parts of it to wit part of Scotland the whole West coast of England and all Wales Sect. 2. Distance betwixt Ireland and severall places upon the coast of Great-Britain The Sea which parteth Ireland from Great-Britain being of a very unequall breadth is more narrow in the North-end less in the South-end but broad in the midst as farre as it washeth the the English coast being the full length of the two Counties of Cumberland and Lancashire opposite against which are situated in Ireland the Counties of Down Lowth and Dublin The Sea which is inclosed betwixt these Counties compriseth in its middle the I le of Man is wel neer of an equall and uniform breadth every where not beeing in any place much broader or much narrower than it is betwixt the havens of Dublin Leverpoole the distance betwixt which two is reckoned by the English Pilots to be of fortie leagues or sixscore English miles But Wales in two or three places commeth a great deal neerer to Ireland and in some as neer again For Holy-head being the most Westerly corner of the Northerliest part of Wales called Anglesey lyeth just half way between Dublin Lerpoole or Chester being twenty Leagues or three score miles from Dublin and ten or twelve houres sayl with a reasonable good wind which distance is no greater than what the eye may very very well reach for a man whose sight is but of an ordinary goodness may at any time in clea● weather with ease discern the high and mountainous coast of Wales from the top of the Dublin mountaines And about the same distance as is betwixt Dublin and Holy-head is also betwixt St. Davis-head a Promontory of Pembrookshire which shire is situated in the most South-west part of Wales and the Irish Promontory in the County of Wexford which the Natives call Cancarne and the English Sea-men Tuskard-point Also the Promontory of Carnarvan in Wales called Brachipult-point and lying betwixt Holy-head and St. Davis is well neer at the same distance from the next Irish shore as either of those other Welsh Promontories But between Brachipult-point and Saint Davis-head the Sea doth much inlarge it self although nothing so much as betwixt Ireland and England making a great inlet on the coast of Wales the which here retireth it self a great way backwards whereas to the contrary the Irish shore which lyeth opposite to it extendeth it self in an equall manner without any great Bayes or inlets As for the North part where Ireland Scotland are neighbours there this Sea groweth very narrow insomuch as Galloway a County in that part of Scotland is distant with its most westerlie shoare from the Ardes a little country and demy-island so named in the most Northerlie part of the County of Down in Ireland not above five Leagues which space the open boats wherein they ordinarily here doe pass from the one kingdome into the other use to sail in three or four houres time and Cantire another Foreland on the West shore of Scotland more to the North than Galloway is neerer yet unto Ireland so that in these two places the one Nation may perfectly bee seen and discerned out of the other at all times whensoever it is no very dark gloomie weather Sect. 3. Shape and bigness of Ireland The shape of this Iland is long-waies square but not fully for to say nothing of severall corners and Forelands which run out a great way into the Sea nor of divers great Bayes and Inlets which the sea maketh here and there in the three other parts of this Iland the fourth part called Munster doth greatly alter that figure for in lieu of stretching it self fi●st from the
into the land the which it doth for the space of fifteen miles as far as to the Town of Belfast where a little river called Lagon not portable but of small boates falleth into this Harbour In this Bay is a reasonable good Road before the Town of Knockfergus seated about nine miles within the land where it is good anchoring in three fathoms and three and a halfe On the North side of the Bay somewhat neer the Sea under a Castle called Mouse-hill is a sand-bay where it is good anchoring for all sorts of ships aswell great as small ones for the North and North-west winds but bad riding for the South-west Sect. 4. Sheeps haven Lough Suillie and Lough foile The three fore-mentioned Havens of Carlingford Strangford Knockfergus are all in the Province of Vlster on the East-side thereof The said Province hath also three good Havens on its Northern coast not very far distant the one from the other viz. Sheep haven Lough Suillie and Lough foile Every one of these is a Lough which the very name of the second and third sufficiently testifieth opening it self into the sea of the which Sheeps haven and Lough Suillie although they bee fair large Harbours as well as Lough foile and that Ships may ride there defended off all winds Lough Suillie beeing also of sufficient bigness to contain a thousand great vessels yet are they very litle frequented because there is not any trade nor trafick nor any good town placed upon or neer them Lough foile is of a great bignes at least twelve miles long and in most places five or six miles broad beeing almost every where of an equall breadth except at the two ends where it groweth narrow beeing of an Ovall figure For at the mouth betwixt Magilions point and Greencastle it is hardly a mile and a half broad and at the other end it is much narrower yet running from thence with a long arm some miles into the countrie beeing liker to a broad River than to a Lough Vpon this Arm three or four miles from the great Lough is the town of London-derrie in a place where that Arm turneth and windeth it self in that manner as it environeth the town on three sides It is nothing big consisting only of two long streets the which cut one nother cross-wayes in the midst but it is very handsome the streets beeing broad and well paved the houses some stories high built for the most of free-stone with a handsome Church Market place and Key and is inclosed with a thick and very strong stone wall being one of the principall fortresses of Ireland It is but few yeares old having been built up from the ground by a company of London Adventurers under the reign of King Iames. Before the mouth of this Lough lyeth a great sand called the Touns upon which it burneth greatly when the wind bloweth from the sea but so as a fair broad and deep channell remaineth betwixt the said Sand and the West-side of the land where there is at all times fourteen and fifteen fathoms of water as in the mouth it self some eight or ten Entring into the Lough there are very great Sands on the left hand from the one end to the other which are some miles broad from off the land and of the right hand are some little sands or shelves here lying close to the land Betwixt these runneth a broad channell in most parts three and four fathoms deep and in that Arm whereon London-derry standeth it is deeper yet in some places no less than ten or twelve and before the Town four and five fathoms so as this is one of the best and most commodious harbours of all the Land Sect. 5. Kilbeg and Dungall Haven The Country of Tirconnell the which taketh up the whole West-side of the Province of Ulster runneth a great way into the Sea with its Southern part on the South side of which Foreland there are two very Fair Havens the one not far from the other viz. Kilbeg and Dungall-haven Kilbeg is a fair round Bay where the greatest ships that goe upon the seas may at all times with their full lading enter and come to an anchor being distant about twelve miles from Cape de Tellin the outmost or most Western point of that forenamed Foreland of Tirconnell The entrance is very narrow so as unto them who are comming to it there seemeth to be no opening there untill they are very neer but it is very clean as well in the mouth as in the Bay it self and nothing that can hurt the ships either comming in or going forth beeing entred one may anchor where one will in five six seven eight fathomes or more Three or four miles to the South from Kilbeg is a Cape called St. Iohns point and six or seaven miles Eastward from the said Cape is Dungal-haven wide and deep enough but in the entrance greatly incumbred with shelves sands rocks so as great care circumspection is requisit to enter or goe forth safely These two Havens have their names of villages seated on them which are very small and no wayes considerable Sect. 6. Broad-haven Akill-haven and Galloway-haven The Province of Connaught extending her self betwixt Vlster and Munster taketh up the greatest part of the westside of Ireland it hath also some good Ports as namely Broad-haven an other to the North of Akill head and a third situated between the main and the North and East side of Akill Iland in which one may ride in seven and eight fathomes and be defended off all winds although it be rather a Sound than an inclosed Harbour for the ships which are come into it need not to goe forth the same way again but sailing on betwixt the Main and the Iland may at the South end of the I le come again to the open sea These Havens are nothing famous beeing very seldome resorted unto by any great ships except such as by tempests and foul weather or some other accident are necessitated to shelter themselves in the same But the famousest Port of this Province is that of Galloway beeing a very great Bay some miles broad and many more long having in the mouth three Iland● named the Iles of Aran the which lye North and South by the side one of the other there remaining three chanels for to come out of the sea into this Bay One chanel runneth betwixt the Land and the Northern Iland called therefore North-sound the second between the the same Northern Iland and the middlemost which channel beeing the most usuall of the three is commonly stiled St Gregories sound and the third between the Southernmost Iland and the main named South sound the channel betwixt the Southern and the middlemost Iland not beeing passable by reason of the sands and shelves wherefore the name of False-sound hath been given to it The whole North-side of this Bay is very foul with sands and rocks so as one may not approach the shoar in
a great way at the end of which sand and in the innermost part of the Bay lyeth a litle Iland called in English Mutton-Iland and by the Irish Enis Kerrigh which hath the same signification at the East side whereof one may anchor in five or six fathomes of water but from thence Northwards untill the citty of Galloway which is the space of two or three miles none but litle vessels and barks can goe the Citie standing not on the Bay itself but on a broad water like a river the which not farre above Galloway comming out of a great Lake called Lough Corbes dischargeth it self into the Bay a litle above Mutton I le Sect. 7. The Havens of Limmerick Smerwick Dingle-bay Ventrie and Dingle-Icoush The next great Haven on the West side of Ireland to the South of Galloway is that of Limmerick which Haven divideth the Province of Connaught from Munster beeing of a huge length no less than fifty miles for so far it is from the mouth of the haven untill the Citty of Limmerick to whose walls great vessels may goe up without meeting with any thing els in all that way save a many little Iles but not any f●ul places Rocks or Sands This Harbour is nothing els but a great Lough halfe way its length growing somewhat narrow but immediatly enlarging it self again into a great breadth whereinto the River Shanon upon whose bank Limmerick is situated dischargeth it self a litle way below the said City although the English and the Irish both call it the Shanon all the way untill the Sea as it were not a Lough into which the River falleth but the River it self thus enlarged Comming out of this Harbour the Land on the left hand shooteth a huge way Westwards into the Sea on the side of which Fore-land ten o● twelve miles at this side of the uttermost point betwixt which and the Iles of Blaskes passeth the Sound of the same name is the Haven of Smerwick not very great deep but clean and well inclosed At the other side of this Fore-land and to the North-east from the Blaskes is a fair and very large Bay called Dingle-bay the which goeth very many miles into the land having in it divers good Havens one whereof called Ventry is four or five miles from the Sound of Blaskes Eastwards and three or four miles further is Dingle-Icoush before the mouth of which Harbour and at the West-side of it lyeth a rock called the Crow round about the which one may sail without danger it being alwayes above water but at spring tides at which time the Sea doth overflow it Sect. 8. Maire Bantrie and Beer-haven Against the South-east corner of Dingle-bay lyeth a great Iland called Valentia betwixt which and the Main is a very fair and safe Road. And a litle way beyond that Iland goeth in another huge Bay called Maire which shooteth into the Land a great deal further than Dingle-bay and somewhat further is a third Bay called Bantrie which equalleth Maire both in breadth and length in both which as well as in Dingle-bay there be severall good Harbours and Roads Maire hath in the mouth some fifty or five-and-forty fathomes of water entring in further there be six and twenty twenty and eighteen afterwards you come to ten and to six and in the innermost parts to three and two fathomes beeing throughout very clean and free from all kind of Rocks and Sands except in very few places As you enter into Bantrie side-ward upon the left hand lyeth a reasonable big I le called the Iland of Beer-haven betwixt which and the Main there goeth in a fair Sound being a great musket shot broad the which in its whole length from where it beginneth untill the place where it endeth at the further part of the Iland being the space of some miles se●veth for a very good and safe port wherefore also it beareth the name of a Hav●n being called Beer-haven A good way within the mouth●ly some Rocks in the midst of the chanel the which at high water are overflown you may sail of either side of them at the other side of this Sound where the same commeth out into the Bantrie there ly two great Rocks just in the mouth betwixt which the ships may pass as also betwixt the same and the land of either side All the rest of this Harbour or Sound is every where very clean and clear and very good anchor-ground ten twelve and thirteen fathoms deep Sect. 9. Whiddie-haven and Langerf In the innermost of the Bantrie lyeth an Iland about three miles long called Whiddie betwixt which and the Main is a very fair wide Bay being the uttermost end of the great Bay Bantrie where you may every where come to an anchor in three four five or six fathomes in as much or as litle water as you will according as you have a mind to ride neer the shore or further from it being every where clean ground Ships may enter into this Bay or Sound in two severall places at both ends of the Iland But the entrance at the South-end is very dangerous because that there betwixt the Iland Whiddie and the Main land it is in most places foul and Rockie But in the other entrance at the Northern end of the Iland is both room and depth enough it being much broader than that at the South-end and eight and nine fathomes deep and there is nothing that can doe hurt except only a row of Rocks a litle musket shot from the shoar the which being covered at high water doe not begin to appear but at half ●bb Right against this Iland at the other side of Bantrie is a Haven called Langerf in which is every where good anchoring and good ground only at the one side on the right hand close to the mouth ly some foul grounds the which fall dry at the ebb of a springtide From Beerhaven to the Northern corner of the Iland Whiddie the Bantrie tendeth East-North-East and North-East eighteen or twenty miles in length Over against Beerhaven in the midst of the fair water it is deep forty six and thirty and thirty fathoms beyond the Iland fifteen and sixteen but further in approaching the I le of Whiddie it is again twenty and five and twenty fathoms deep Sect. 10. Downams bay Baltimore-bay and Baltimore-haven Next to the Bantrie and only by a narrow neck of land divided from it is Downams bay being great and wide although no wayes comparable to any of those three already described a very commodious Road to save ships in and good anchor ground every where The land to the East of this Bay shooteth out very far to the Sea-ward the uttermost point thereof called Messan-head being the Southermost Cape of all Ireland For Cape de Clare being about twenty miles further to the East and somewhat more Southerly is not on the Main but in an Iland Beyond Messan-head is another Bay far greater than any of those
nor any other heights betwixt the Strand and the land it being only defended from the overflowing of the Sea by an unsensible rising Sect. 2. Of the high and hilly Shoares of Ireland In other places the land is high and hilly on the sea-side part whereof doth descend by degrees towards the sea having a Strand below but elswhere the land is high and steep being washed underneath by the deep sea so as ships of a great burthen may sayl close by it the which may be observed not onely in the Heads or Capes the most part whereof are thus fashioned but in many other places in great extents of the coast For as concerning the saying of Giraldus that Ireland every where upon the coast is very low Est per omnia sui latera a marináque littora terra valdè demissa that is evidently repugnant to the truth Some of these high Shoars are bare naked Rocks covered with very little or no earth so as scarce any thing groweth upon them but dry grass and heath others are stony within but have at the top a reasonable deep mould and all over cloathed with good grass some of them being so exceeding steep towards the Sea-side that it is imposible for man or beast being come to the further end to go one step further without falling down and being lost So as it hath happened that cattle and sheep feeding in those places when they were come to the top and following the grass suddenly tumbled down falling head-long into the sea or upon the hard sharp Rocks standing at the bottom Sect. 3. Capes on the East-side of Ireland The Heads or Capes of Ireland are in great number and many of them very observable to the great commodity of the Sea-faring men In the South-Easterliest point of Ireland is the Cape of Greenore five or six miles to the South of the Bay of Wexford being not very high but steep and flat at the top and three or four miles to the South-West from it is the point of Carnarord Betwixt Wexford and Dublin there bee five Heads That of Glascarick which the Dutch Mariners call the Blew-point and the Steeppoint twelve miles to the North of the Bay of Wexford being of no great height That of Glaskermen or Arklo being we●-near at the same distance from the Head of Glascarick as that is from the Bar of Wexford Missan head some nine or ten miles further to the North. The Head of Wickloe six miles beyond Missan-head being steep and rocky divided at the top into two little Hillocks And the fifth and last of all that of Bray about fifteen miles beyond Wickloe and five or six miles to the South of the Bay of Dublin being a great and high Cape shooting a good way into the Sea and so steep that it is ten fathomes deep there close under the land On the North-side of Dublin-bay is the Head of Houth a great high Mountain three or four miles compass in the bottom having the sea on all sides except the West-side where with a long narrow neck it is joyned to the land which neck being low ground one may from either side see the sea over it so that afar off it seemeth as if it were an Iland This Head may be seen a great way off at sea for even upon the land one may very perfectly see it not only upon the Key of Dublin which is six miles from thence but nine or ten miles further Westward Upon all the coast from the Head of Houth to Dondrom being the space of about threescore miles is none considerable But some miles beyond Dondrom and three or four miles at this side the Haven of Arglas is St. Johns-point a Head and Fore-land which shooteth a good way into the Sea The next Head beyond St. Johns is the point at the North-side of the Haven of Strangford which the Dutch Mariners by a notable mistake call the point of Arglas All these Capes lye on the East-side of Ireland whose utmost point Northward is the Promontory of Fair-foreland Sect. 4. Capes on the North-side of Ireland About fifty miles to the West of Fair-foreland and well near the middle of the North-coast is the Head of Enyston which with the land next adjoyning lyeth much more Northward and runneth further out into the sea than any other land upon this coast being of a great height so as it may easily bee known by any that once have seen it Some forty miles more Westward beyond this Promontory lyeth the Cape which is known by the name of Horn-head being a Hill with two hommocks at the top in fashion somewhat like unto two horns from whence it hath received its denomination Sect. 5. Capes on the West-side of Ireland Upon the West-side of the Irish coast are four principal Heads viz. Tellin-head lying about thirty miles to the South-West of the Iles of Aran the which are situated over against the North-Westerlyest point of Ireland Akil-head some miles to the South of Broad-haven being not on the Main but in an Iland Sline-head which by the Sea-faring men is called Twelve-pence because the land sheweth it self in twelve round hommocks being situated well near in the middle of the West-coast And Lupis-head which is the Northern-point of the Haven of Limmerick As for the other Heads upon the same West-side namely those three betwixt the Haven of Slego and Broad-haven by the Irish Pilots called Can-Moin Can-Killaloy and Can-Jores Can in Irish betokeneth a Head in all sorts of significations Renilira and Clegan between Akil-head and Sline-head which last the Irish call Can-Leme Brain and Calew situated to the South of the Bay of Galloway and Can-Sanan being the South-point of the Bay of Limmerick those are less considerable Sect. 6. Heads on the Southern Coasts of Ireland Upon the South-West-side of Ireland the principall Heads are Cape-Dorses situated in an Iland of the same name betwixt the two great Bays of Maire and Bantree and Messan-head situated betwixt the Bayes of Bantree and Baltimore being the same in Camdens opinion which Ptolomie calleth Notium that is Southern it being the most Southerly point of all Ireland Upon the South-East-side is the Head of Clare standing in an Iland on the East-side of the Bay of Baltimore and a great way from thence the old Head of Kinsale called Cape Velho by the Dutch Mariners which Head to those that come sayling along the land afar off seemeth to be an Iland being a point which shooteth a great way into the sea whose utmost or most Southerly end is very high and steep Upon the same side standeth the Head of Ardimore which runneth a great way into the sea from the land on both sides and because of its height may be seen many miles off CHAP. V. Of the Sands or Grounds Blind-Rocks and other Rocks in the Irish sea Sect. 1. Of the Grounds before the Coast betwixt Dublin and VVexford THe Sea which invironeth Ireland is as free from Shelves
East-side and the North-side of the coast There be also divers Rocks that alwayes stand above water the which as they are dangerous in the dark night and in misty weather so at other times they are rather profitable than hurtful forasmuch as they serve the Sea-faring men for Sea-marks and help them to discern the situation and distances of the coasts wherefore also the most part of them have received peculiar and proper names The principall of this whole number is the Tuskar a great black smooth Rock of fashion like unto a ship turned the upside downwards but as big again lying South-Eastwards from the point of Greenore the space of three miles To the South West of the Tuskar a great way and about a mile and a half from the bigger of the Saltees is the Rock Kinbeg To the North-East of the Saltees stand two Rocks not far the one from the other of which the one of its situation is called North-Rock the Southermost The Tuns To the East of these two and about three miles from the point of Carnarord lyeth Black-Rock being clean of all sides so as ships may freely sail round about it without any fear or danger A mile or two to the North of Lambry lyeth a great Rock called Rock Abill about which ships may sail of all sides Two miles beyond the North-point of the Haven of Strangford are two great Rocks the one called North-Rock and the other distant two miles from it to the South South-Rock The North-Rock is a number of Rocks lying close together divers whereof are covered at high-water From the end of these two shoot out riffes of foul and rocky-ground but betwixt them goeth a broad clean and deep chanel through which all manner of ships even the biggest may pass Six or seven miles to the North of the Bay of Knockfergus and three miles from the land are the Nine Mayds being great Rocks that lye but a little above the water or low Rocky-Iles with a great number of blind Rocks about the same so as ships may come no nearer to them than within five or six mile Of the same kind of low Rocks or little Rocky-Ilands are also those who are called Eneste●hull-Ilands being situated before the most Northerly-point of Ireland betwixt Lough-Foile and Lough-Suillie Sect. 6. Rocks in the Irish-sea upon the Western and the Southern-coast Near the Ilands of Aran upon the North-West-coast of Ireland lye severall high Rocks called the Stags of Aran and such other Rocks called the Stags of Broad-haven lye three or four miles from the Northern-point of Broad-haven Three miles to the North-west of Akill-head lyeth Black-rock a great high and black Rock with severall other Rocks near unto it On the North-side and West-side of the Ilands Blaskes lying over against the most Westerly-point of Ireland are severall great Rocks some whereof are called the Horses and others the Bucks Seven or eight Leagues to the South of Blaskes lye three great Rocks called the Skellighs the Easterliest about three miles and the Westerliest six or seven miles from the Land the which to those that come from the South when first they begin to see them resemble the Sails of Ships Without the Head of Dorses lye three other great Rocks whereof the uttermost or the most Westerly is called the Bull the middlemost the Cow and the third the Calf being clean round about so as without any danger one may sail between them Five or six miles West and by South of the Head of Clare lyeth a high steep Rock alone in the sea called Fastney the which at the first appearing looketh like the sayl of a ship Two or three miles to the East of Baltimore and a mile or two from the land lye five or six high steep Rocks called the Stags as those of Aran and Broad-haven to those that come from the East along the land when first they begin to have them in sight they resemble some Spires or Pointed-steeples standing together Two miles Eastwards from the mouth of the Haven of Kinsale lye two great black Rocks the one somwhat farther from the land than the other There lie also severall Rocks neer the little Ilands of Dalkee and Irelands-Eye the one situated before the North-point and the other before the South-point of the Bay of Dublin as heretofore we have shewed Likewise on both ends of the I le of Lambey half way betwixt the same Iland and Tredagh-haven close by the Land near the Iland Ranghlins near Skires Portrush and in severall other places but the principal and most considerable are those whereof we have spoken CHAP. VI. Of the nature of the Irish-sea and of the Tides which go in the same Sect. 1. The Irish-sea not so tempestuous as it is bruited to be THat part of the Irish-sea which divideth Ireland from Great-Britain is very much defamed both by Antient and Modern Writers in regard of its boysterousness and tempestuousness as if it were more subject to storms and raging weather than any other and consequently not to be passed without very great danger Mare quod Hiberniam Britanniam interluit undosum inquietumque toto in anno non nisi paucis diebus est navigabile That is The Sea which passeth betwixt Ireland and Britain is boysterous and restless so as but few dayes in the year ships can go upon it saith Solinus With whom Giraldus who several times went to and fro betwixt England and Ireland fully agreeth writing in this manner Hibernicum Mare concurrentibus fluctibus undosissimum fere semper est inquietum it a ut vix etiam aestivo tempore paucis diebus se navigantibus tranquillum praebeat That is The Irish-sea being very boysterous through the concourse of the waves is almost alwayes restless so as even in the summer-time it is hardly for a few dayes quiet enough to be sayled upon Likewise also Camden and Speed give unto this sea the surnames of Boysterous and Tempestuous Yea it is a common Proverb in England As unquiet as the Irish-sea Nevertheless it is nothing so bad as they make it and the words of Stanyhurst in his Annotations upon Giraldus Mare Hibernicum satis tranquillum est nisi ventorum vi agit●tur non solum aestate sed etiam summa hyem● vectores ultro citroque navigant The Irish-sea is quiet enough except when by high windes it is stirred so as not only in the summer but even in the midst of winter people do pass it to fro are altogether true confirmed by dayly experience True it is that some ships do perish upon this but the same happeneth as well upon other seas who are all subject to the disaster of tempests and shipwracks Sect. 2. Causes of the loss of such ships as perish upon this sea The common cause of the casting away of ships upon this sea and upon the East-coast of Ireland is this that in the long dark Winter-nights when this disaster is more frequent than at
other times of the year some furious storm arising the ships are dashed against the Rocks against the rocky Shoares or against those Grounds which extend themselves betwixt the Tuskar and the Bay of Dublin whilst the Steer-men and Pilots by reason of the darkness not being able to discern the land or any of their wonted marks do not know which way to steer to shun those dangerous places and to keep themselves in the open sea Sect. 3. Nature of the ground of the Irish-sea The ground of the Irish-sea as well in the midst as under the land is almost every where clear sand but in some places black and muddy or oasi●-earth In very few places rough and sharp and scarce any where else but in the Bay of Wickloe so hard and stifly compacted that the Anchors can take no hold of it Sect. 4. Of the Tides in the Irish-sea What concerneth the Ebbing and Flowing in this sea which invironeth Ireland upon all the West-side it floweth against the land and the Ebbe falleth back from it into the sea the Flood from and the Ebbe towards the West for which reason very great Tides as well of Ebbe as Flood go upon all this coast not onely the open shoares but in the bayes and inlets even those which go a great way into the land as the Haven of Limmerick so as those who have been at Galloway do assure us that it doth so mightily ebbe and flow there that at high-water great vessels may sayl over those Rocks the which with the Ebbe come above water Upon the other side of Ireland it ebbeth and floweth along the land for upon the North-side of Ireland the Ebbe and Flood falleth in the same manner as upon the West-side flowing from and ebbing towards the West But upon the East-side from Fair-Foreland unto Carlingford the Flood commeth from and the Ebbe falleth to the North As upon the rest of this East-side to wit from Carlingford to Carnarord it floweth from the South and ebbeth from the North. For although upon all this side the Flood runneth along the land yet doth it not take its beginning from one and the same but two contrary points the which two floods comming the one out of the Main-sea in the North and the other out of the Main-sea in the South do meet and stop one another before the Haven of Carlingford From Tuskar and Carnarord as far as to the Head of Clare being the whole South-Eastcoast of Munster the Flood falleth along the coast East-North-East and the Ebbe West-South-West But upon the rest of the coast of Munster beyond the Head of Clare Westward which coast lyeth West and by South the Flood falleth East-ward and the Ebbe to the West Sect. 5. Strong Tides in the Sounds Strange proprietie of the Bay of Wexford in the matter of Tides That which the Sea-faring men do witness that in the Sound of Blaskes of Dalkee and in that of Lambey as also in some other narrow chanels of this sea there goeth a very strong Tide as well of the Ebbe as Flood is no other than may be observed almost every where else in places of the like nature But it is much to be wondered what the same do relate of the chanel or entrance of the Haven of Wexford to wit that it ebbeth and floweth there three houres sooner than without in the open sea so as when it is high water in the chanel of that Haven and upon the bar of the same the Flood doth still for half a Tide or three hours after strongly run by it to the North whereby it cometh to pass that the end of Hanemans-path a great Sand lying just before the Haven of VVexford is cast up more and more to the North and that the chanel which passeth by the North-side of that Sand being the entrance of the Haven is now more to the North than it hath been formerly And as it floweth three houres longer in the open sea than upon the Bar and in the chanel of this Haven in the like manner also the Ebbe in the sea falleth to the South three houres after that it is low water in the same place but not so strongly as the Flood Sect. 6. Some other strange particulars about the Tides in the I●ish-sea related by Giraldus but found not to be true More strange it is what Giraldus writeth of the Havens of Wickloe and Arckloe to wit that in VVickloe-haven it ever floweth when in the sea it ebbeth and that it ebbeth there when it floweth in the sea And that in the same River this Haven being nothing else but the mouth of a little River the water is salt as well when the ebbe is at the lowest as at the flowing and high-water And that to the contrary in that Riveler which at Arcklo dischargeth it self into the sea the water keepeth its sweetness at all times never receiving the mixture of any saltness as well with the flood and high-water as with the ebbe But experience sheweth these things to be repugnant to the truth as also what he writeth of a Rock not far from Arcklo at the one side wherof he saith that it alwayes ebbeth when it doth flow on the other and to the contrary Also that in Milford-haven situated in the Southernmost part of Wales in a manner over against Waterford and upon the next coasts it ebbeth and floweth at quite contrary times to what it doth at Dublin and the coast thereabouts so that it should begin to ebbe in Milford-haven when in the Bay of Dublin it beginneth to flow and to flow in Milford-haven when it beginneth to ebbe at Dublin Which how untrue it is all those can witnes who having bin in both places have had the curiosity to observe the times and houres at what age of the Moon soever wherein it doth begin to ebbe and to flow there CHAP. VII Of the Springs and Fountains item of the Brooks and Rivelets of Ireland Sect. 1. Of the Springs and Fountains HAving sufficiently spoke of the Sea wherin Ireland lyeth and of whatsoever belongeth thereunto we shall now before we come to treat of the Land it self speak of the Waters within the Land first of the Springs and Brooks afterwards of the Rivers and lastly of the Loughs or Lakes As for the first to wit Fountains and Springs Ireland is very full of them every where not only in the mountainous and hilly parts but even in the flat and Champain countries Which Springs for the most part are all of one and the same fashion being like unto a small pit full of water up to the brim at the lower ●ide whereof the water doth run forth without making any noise or bubling For that kind of Fountains which forcibly burst out of the side of a Rock or spout their water on high are very rarely to be found in this Kingdom The water of these Well-springs is for the most part cool clear and pure free from all strange smell and
three forenamed but nothing like the same in shape nor in the same manner running with a long arm a huge way into the land but rather approaching to the figure of a half moon In this Bay is Crook-haven School-haven and severall other great Havens not only on the main land but also in some of the Ilands whereof there is a great number in this Bay The most Easterly of all these Ilands is Baltimore the which surpassing all the others in bigness giveth its name unto the Bay That part of the Bay which lyeth betwixt this Iland and the Main having a narrow entrance but within of a great largenes is a marvellous good Road where ships may come to an anchor on either side lye defended off all winds It is five and six fathoms deep on the sides six and 7. in the midst In the mouth of the Harbour next to the East-side lyeth a blind Rock in the midst of it another Rock which appeareth at low water There is nothing els that can do hurt This Haven being far the principallest of all this Bay hath its name as wel as the Bay it self of the Iland being called Baltimore-haven To the North of that Iland lieth another ●●land called Spain-Iland where one may pass betwixt these two Ilands to the West and so out of Baltimore-haven goe into the Sea But onely with smaller vessells because half flood there is not aboue 12. or thiteen feet of water in all that channell Sect. 11 Castle-haven Rosse-haven Clandore Haven with the Havens of Kinsale and Cork Some miles beyond Baltimore-bay is Castle-haven where ships may come to an anchor in twelve fathoms of water being of a reasonable bigness and very clear and clean as well in the entrance as within Between Castle-haven and Kinsale are two other good Havens to wit that of Rosse and of Clandore in which there is water enough and very clean ground The Haven of Kinsale is one of the famousest of all Ireland ships may sail into it keeping in the midst of the channell without any danger either without or in the mouth of the Harbour except a blind Rock close to the East point Within the haven on the West-side lyeth a great shelf which shooteth a great way off from the land but leaving a very large passage along by the side of it in which as in all the rest of the Harbour it is many fathomes deep This Haven for some miles goeth in North-North-East but afterwards turneth West-ward untill the Kay of Kinsale where ships may ride in eight or nine fathoms of water being defended off all Winds Ten or twelve miles to the East of Kinsale is Cork-haven the which goeth in North-North-East being within large and wide running a great way into the land for the town of Cork untill whose Kay this Haven is very clean and deep is seated many miles from the Sea and from the mouth of the Harbour CHAP. III. Of the lesser Havens and the barred Havens of Ireland also of the Roads and Anchor-places upon the coast and in the little Ilands near the coast Sect. 1. Wexford-haven AFter the description of the principal Havens of Ireland we shall come to them of less moment in which number we put all those which either in their entrance or within have not water enough for the bigher sort of vessels as likewise those the which being deep enough are but very little and of a small pourprise and in this description we shall observe the same order as in the former beginning with Wexford and so going North-ward then West afterwards South-ward and lastly East and North-Eastward untill wee have gone about the whole Iland The Haven of Wexford runneth in West and by North and with her innermost part altogether Northward Just before this Haven lye two great shelves of Sands by the side one of the other of which that on the South-side is called Hanemans-path and the other North-grounds There goeth a chanel betwixt Hanemans-path and the land on the South-side of the Haven and another betwixt the North-side and the North-grounds but this last hath but six feet of water at full flood and in the other eight feet with the flood of ordinary tides and ten at spring-tides The chief chanel is that which goeth in betwixt the two Sands being four and five fathom deep Besides these Sands there is another Shelf in the mouth of the Harbour it self which kind of sandy-banks lying across in the mouth of Harbours and Rivers are usually called Bars and the Havens which have them Bared-havens With a high flood there is about sixteen feet of water Being past the Bar you have for some way three fathoms of water three and a half and four but afterwards for a great way but ten feet and ten a half with a high flood although under the Castle where the Ships come to an Anchor you have four fathoms and before the Town three but because of the forementioned shallows no vessels can go to Wexford that draw more than ten feet of water but must unlade and lade in a Creek near the mouth of the Haven on the South-side about three miles from the Town where is water enough but no shelter for the South-west winds the which do come over the land to this place Sect. 2. Dublin-haven Dublin Haven hath a Bar in the mouth upon which at high-flood and spring-tide there is fifteen and eighteen feet of water but at the ebbe and nep●-tide but six With an ordinary tide you cannot go to the Key of Dublin with a Ship that draws five feet of water but with a spring-tide you may go up with Ships that draw seven and eight feet Those that go deeper cannot go nearer Dublin than the Rings-end a place three miles distant from the Bar and one from Dublin This Haven almost all over falleth dry with the ebbe as well below Rings-end as above it so as you may go dry-foot round about the Ships which lye at an Anchor there except in two places one at the North-side half way betwixt Dublin and the Bar and the other at the South-side not far from it In these two little Creeks whereof the one is called the Pool of Clantarf and the other Poolebeg it never falleth dry but the Ships which ride at an Anchor remain ever afloat because at low water you have nine or ten feet of water there This Haven besides its shallownes hath yet another great incommodity that the Ships have hardly any shelter there for any winds not only such as come out of the sea but also those which come off from the land especially out of the South-west so as with a great South-west storm the Ships run great hazard to be carried away from their Anchors and driven into the sea which more than once hath come to pass and particularly in the beginning of November Anno 1637 when in one night ten or twelve Barks had that misfortune befaln them of the most
finding an open entrance and twice a day with the Tide fully flowing into them maketh the water so salt And it would be no great error to take all those Loughs wherein that happeneth viz. Lough Cone in the County of Down Lough-Foile in the County of Colrain Lough-suille in Tirconnell and the Lough of Cork rather for Inlets of the Sea than for Lakes although the Inhabitants hold them all to be Loughs and give them the name of Loughs And in this number is also to be put that great Lough betwixt Limmerick and the sea through which the Shanon dischargeth it self into the sea of the which we have already spoke once or twice heretofore Sect. 4. Of Lough-Earne Lough-Neaugh and the rest of the great Loughs Amongst the great Loughs of Sweet-water are far the principallest Lough-Earne Lough-Neaugh the first of which is situated in the confines of Ulster and Connaught being in effect two different Loughs joyned together onely by a short and narrow chanel of which two that which lyeth farthest within the land doth extend it self in a manner directly North and South but the second which is next to the sea doth lye East and West so that both together they have the fashion of a bended elbow being both very broad in the midst growing by degrees narrower towards both the ends Lough-Neaugh lyeth in the North-Easterly part of Ulster bordering upon the Counties of Tirone Armagh Down Antrim and Colrain being of a round or rather somwhat ovall figure Next in bigness to these two is Lough-Corbes the same on whose neather-end the City Galloway is seated The two Loughs thorough which the Shanon passeth Lough-Ree and Lough-Dirg item Lough-Fingarrow in Connaught betwixt the Counties of Maio and Roscomen In the last place as the least of this sort are Lough-Allen out of which the Shanon taketh his originall being nine miles long and three miles broad Lough-Me●ke situated betwixt Lough-Fingarrow and the Lough of Galloway And Lough-Larne in the County of Kerry in Munster not far from the upper-end of those two famous Bayes Dingle and Maire The least of these is some miles long and broad and many miles in circuit but the biggest are of so vast a compass that they are more like a Sea than a Lough Sect. 5. Of the Ilands in the Loughs Most of these great Loughs are very full of little Ilands and above all Lough-Earne in which the same are numberless In Lough-Cone also there is so great a number that those who inhabit about it affirm them to bee two hundred and threescore Lough-Ree and Lough-Dirg are likewise very full of them And there is also a good many in Lough-Fingarrow Lough-Larne and Suille But Lough-Foile is very free from them and in the Lough of Cork there is not above one or two as likewise in Lough-Neaugh in which they lye near to the ●ides leaving the midst altogether free Very few of these Ilands are inhabited or planted but the most part being plentifully cloathed with very sweet Grass serve for pastures to sheep and other cattle the which doe thrive wonderfully well in them and the same befalleth also in the middle sort of Loughs amongst which likewise there be very few that have not some of these little Ilands in them In some few of these Ilands especially of Lough-Earne and Lough-Ree are some dwellings whereunto persons who love solitariness were wont to retire themselves and might live there with much contentment as finding there not only privacy and quietness with opportunity for studies and contemplations but there besides great delightfulness in the place it self with variety of very sweet pastimes in fowling fishing planting and gardening In one of the greatest Ilands of Lough-Earne Sir Henry Spotteswood had a fine seat with goodly Buildings Gardens Orchards and a pretty little Village with a Church and Steeple belonging to it which whither it is in being yet or destroyed by the Barbarians and bloody Rebels I am not informed In Lough Sillon in the County of Cavan in a Iland not far from the bank where the River Nanne● runneth into it is a Castle built of form four square which covereth the whole I le much after the manner of the Fort Eneskellin in Lough-Earne and so many more to long to be rehearsed Sect. 6. Of St Patriks Purgatory One of these little Ilands situated in Lough-Dirg one of the middle-sort of Loughs hath been very famous for the space of some ages over almost all Christendome because the world was made to beleeve that there was the suburbs of Purgatorie into which whoso had the courage to goe and remaine there the appointed time did see and suffer very strange and terrible things which perswasion having lasted untill our times the matter hath been discovered with in these few yeares and found to be a meer illusion This discoverie was made during the goverment of Richard Boile Earle of Cork and Adam Lostus Vicount of Elie and Lord Chancellour of Ireland which two being Lords Iustices of that Kingdome in the last yeares of King Iames desirous to know the truth of the business sent some persons of qualitie to the place to inquire exactly into the truth of the whole matter These did find that that miraculous and fearfull cave descending down to the very Purgatorie and Hell was nothing els but a little cell digged or hewen out of the Rockie ground without any windowes or holes so as the doore beeing shut one could not see a jot within it beeing of so little depth that a tall man could but just stand upright in it and of no greater capacity than to contain six or seven persons Now when that any person desirous to goe that Pilgrimage to Purgatory was come into the Iland the Friars some small number whereof made their constant aboad there for that purpose made him watch and fast excessively whereby and through the recounting of strange and horrible apparitions and ●antasmes which he would meet withall in that subterranean pilgrimage being well preepared they did shut him up in that little dark hole and beeing drawn out again from thence after some houres altogether astonished and in a maze he would be a good while before he came again to himself and afterwards the poor man would tell wonderfull stories as if in very deed he had gone a great way under the ground and seen and suffered all those things which his weak imagination altogether corrupted by the concurrence and sequel of so many causes to weaken the braine did figure unto him To prevent this delusion in future times the said Lords Iustices caused the Friars to depart from thence their dwelling quite to be demolished and the hole or cell to be broke open and altogether exposed to the open aire in which state it hath lyen ever since whereby that Pilgrimage to Purgatory is quite come to nothing and never hath bin undertaken since by any To beget the greater reputation to this sictitious Purgatory the people
dunging so as the inhabitants thereof never trouble themselves to keep the dung of their beasts but from time to time fling it into a River which runneth by them But this happiness and richness of soil as it is very rare over all the world so in Ireland too being confined to very narrow bounds all the rest of the Kingdom is necessitated for the ends aforesaid to help and improve their Lands by dunging the which they do severall manner of wayes Sect. 2. Of Sheeps-dung The commonest sort of manuring the lands in Ireland is that which is done with the dung of beasts especially of Cows and Oxen and also of Horses mixed with a great quantity of straw and having lyen a long while to rot and incorporate well together Whereof as of a matter every where known and usuall it is needless to speak further Onely thus much seemeth good to us not to pass over in silence that if Sheep here as in other countries were housed and kept up in stables for any long time together their excrements would make better dung than that of any other four-footed creatures For the land on which sheep have fed for two or three yeares together or longer is so greatly enriched thereby that when it commeth to bee plowed it bringeth a much fairer and plentifuller crop than if from the beginning it had been made Arable and dunged after the ordinary manner Wherefore also great Sheep-masters may set their land where the sheep have been feeding some yeares together as dear again by the Acre than what at the first they could have got for it of any body Wherefore also it is an usuall thing in Ireland as well as in England to drive the sheep upon the Fallow and to keep them there untill all the hearbs which may minister any food unto the Sheep be by them consumed which doth the ground a great deal of good and giveth it heart to bring afterwards the better increase And the same also helpeth greatly for to make good grass grow upon the Arable when the same is turned into Pasture and Meddow a thing ordinarily used in sundry parts of Ireland and many times necessary for to keep the lands in heart For ground being plowed and the Sheep driven thither as soon as any herbs grow upon it they do not only consume the Thistles and other useless herbs but cause good grass to grow up in lieu thereof and that speedily For in all places where their dung lighteth of the best and sweetest sorts of grass do grow and that within the first year which otherwise would not have come in much longer time and that nothing near so good generally Sect. 3. An usefull observation about Cows-dung There is a notable difference betwixt Sheeps-dung and that of other cattle as in the goodness and richness it self so in the particular last mentioned by them For that of Oxen and Cows is no wayes fit for dunging untill it is grown old and hath lyen a soaking with straw a great while Dayly experience shewing in Ireland as in England and other countryes that in those places of the pastures where the fresh Cow-dung falleth and remaineth the grass the next year doth grow ranker and higher than in the rest of the same fields but so sowre and unpleasing that the beasts will not offer to touch it so as ordinarily you shall see these tufts of grass standing whole and undiminished in the midst of pastures that every where else are eaten bare and to the very ground The which as in part it may bee imputed to the quantity of the dung the which being greater than the earth can well digest and conveniently unite with it self cannot be turned into so good and sweet nourishment so doth it also without doubt come in part through the very nature of the dung the which of it self and without a long preparation and alteration is not so fit to nourish the ground as that of sheep Sect. 4. Of Pigeons-dung Pigeons-dung also is very convenient for the improvement of the ground and I know some in Ireland who having tryed that have found a wonderfull deal of good in it incomparably more than in that of any four-footed beasts and of Sheep themselves But the Pigeon-houses no where in Ireland being so big as to afford any considerable quantity and never having heard of any body there who could dung more than an Acre or two with all the Pigeons-dung which had been gathering the space of a whole twelve-moneth it cannot well be reckoned among the common sorts Sect. 5. Of Ashes and Mud. Besides the dung of Beasts there are usuall in Ireland or were before this Rebellion five or six other sorts for to Manure and Improve the ground whereof some are as good as the dung consisting of the excrements of beasts and others do far surpass it One of these sorts is Ashes and Mud another As for the first I have understood of Englishmen who had lived many years in Ireland and all that while had exercised Husbandry that they had used to gather all their Ashes of their hearths bake-houses and brew-houses being Wood-ashes and to lay them of a heap somewhere in the open air from whence at convenient times they would carry them upon their grounds and there spread them in the same manner as other dung but nothing near in so great a quantity wherein they affirmed to have found as much and more good than in any dung of beasts And I know several other English who living in Ireland did use to take the scouring of their ditches together with other Mud digged out of the Bogs and having let it lye a good while a rotting in great heaps did afterwards carry it upon their lands in lieu of dung the which they found very good and usefull for that purpose These two sorts were never yet brought into common use but onely practised by some few persons especially that of the Ashes although in other Countries they have been known long since so as Pliny who lived about fifteen hundred years ago writeth in the ninth Chapter of the seventeenth Book of his Natural History that in his time in that part of Italy which is situated between the Alpes and the River Po comprehending those Countries which now are known by the names of Piemont and Lombardy Ashes were more used and commended for the manuring of the grounds than the dung of beasts As concerning the burning of the Heath and other dry herbs standing upon the ground for to manure the land with the ashes thereof that not properly belonging to this place shall be spoke of more at large in some of the ensuing Chapters Sect. 6. Of Lime The English living in Queens-county in Leinster having seen that in sundry parts of England and Wales especially in Pembrookshire Lime was used by the inhabitants for the manuring and inriching of their grounds begun some years since to practise the same and found themselves so well thereby that in a
short time the use thereof grew very common amongst them so as many of ●hem ever after used no other kind of dung The manner of it was thus Having first plowed their fields they carryed the Lime on them and layd it in many small heaps leaving a convenient distance between in the same manner as useth to be done with the dung of beasts and having let them lye for some moneths they plowed the land again to convey the Lime into the ground This made it so rich that in a great while after nothing else needed to be done to it but to let the land at a certain revolution of time lye Fallow no other manuring at all being requisite for some yeares after And all that while the land was very fruitfull more than it could have been made with any ordinary dung and very free of al sorts of bad herbs and weeds especially for the first yeares bringing Corn with much thinner huskes than that growing upon other lands They found that the Lime carryed upon the Land hot out of the Kiln did more good in all the fore-mentioned particulars than when they let it grow cold first And this they could doe very easily because Lime-stone is very plentifull in that County especially in the Town of Monrath where there is a whole hill of that stone of that bigness that if all the adjacent Country did continually fetch it from thence for the forenamed use it would for ever hold out sufficiently The Land thus manured and improved by Lime shewed its fruitfulness not only in the following yeares but even in the first except the Lime had been layd on in undue proportion and in greater quantity than was requisite for in that case the Lime burnt the Corn and the first years Crop was thereby spoyled In some places where the land was not cold and moyst enough to bee able to endure meer Lime they mixed the Lime with earth digged out of pits and let that stuff lye a mellowing in great heaps for some moneths together and afterwards carryed it on the land and manured that therewith Sect. 7. A remarkable historie concerning the excellencie of Lime for the inricheng of the ground How incredibly the land was inriched by this kind of manuring may be gathered by the ensuing particular The whole Lordship of Mounrath was thirty yeares agoe set by one Mr. Downings whose it was and who afterwards sold it to Sir Charles Coot for fifty pounds sterling by the year and nevertheless after a while the Farmers surrendred it unto him complaining that they could not live by it but were quite impoverished where as they who farmed it next after them beeing people newly come out of England gave an hundred and fifty pounds sterling a year st●rling for it did not only live very freely upon it yea grew rich and wealthie but withall did so farre forth improve the land partly indeed with building plauting hedging and the like but chiefly by this kind of manuing that ●t the time when this last horrible rebellion broke forth the same Lordship if it had been to let out then mighe have been let for five hundred pounds sterling a year as it hath been assured me by some who themselves had been farmers of that land Sect. 8. Another history shewing the ●fficacy of Lime in this particular Before we give over this discours of Lime we shall adde to what hath been said already that in some other parts of Ireland where this manuring with Lime was not used nor known the vertue of Lime in this particular hath been found out by meer chance For some persons known to me who lived but a few miles from Dublin having understood that the crowes wherewith they were much plagued and who did use to make very great spoil of their grains would not touch the corn wherewith the lime was mixed did cause unsl●ked Lime to be mingled with water making it as thinne as if it had been for the whitening of walls and very well bespringled the corn therewith before it was carried to the fields to be sowen and that after this manner the corn lying on a heap one turned it with both hands whilest another sprinkled on the fore-said stuff doing so untill the whole heap was thoroughly besprinkled at other times they mingled dry lime with the corn and afterwards besprinkled the whole heap with fair water through and through for the same purpose and hereby they did not only obtain the aforesaid end of preserving the corn from the crowes but had thereby a fairer and better crop than ever before their land had produced Sect. 9. Of Sea-sand Lime is much used in the province of Munster as in other parts of Ireland so for to manure the ground withall where the sea-sand likewise is greatly used to the same end not only in places lying on the seaside but even ten twelve and fifteen miles into the land whether it was carried in some places by boats and in others upon carts the charges being sufficiently recompensed by the pro●it comming from it For they used it for the most part only upō very poor land consisting of cold clay and that above half a foot deep which land having been three or f●ur times plowed harrowed in the same manner as is usuall to be done with fallow the sand is strawed all over very thinly a little before the sowing time the which beeing done that land bringeth very good corn of all sorts not only Rye and Oates but even Barley and Wheat three yeares one after another and having lyen fallow the fourth year for many years after it produceth very clean and sweet grass whereas formerly and before it was thus manured it produced nothing but moss heath and short low furze which herbs are fired upon the ground and the ground stubbed before it be plowed the first time It is not any peculiar sort of Sea-sand nor out of any particular places which is used for this purpose but that which every where lyeth on the strands And this manner of manu●ing the land with Sea-sand is very common in the two most Westerly shires of England Cornwall and Devonshire from whence those who first practised it in Ireland seem to have learned it Sect. 10. Of Brine or Pickle The goodness of the Sea-sand consisteth chiefly in its Saltness for which reason Pickle it self is very good for this purpose it beeing very well known to severall English dwelling about the Band and Colrain that were Farmers of the Salmon-fishing there who used every year carefully to keep the soul pikle comming of the Salmons at their repacking and having powred it among the ordinary dung of cattle and straw they did let them ly a good while a mellow●ng together Hereby it was greatly strengthened and enriched so that the land being dunged with it did bear much better and richer crops than that which was manured onely with common dung without the mixture of it CHAP. XII Sect. 1. Of
the Marle in Ireland and the manner of Marling the land there MArle is a certain sort of fat and clayish stuff being as the grease of the earth it hath from antient times on greatly used for manuring of land both in France and England as may appear out of Pliny in the sixth seventh and eighth Chapters of his seventeenth Book The same also is stil very usual in sundry parts of England being of an incomparable goodness The which caused the English who out of some of those places where Marle was used were come to live in Ireland to make diligent search for it and that with good success at last it having been found out by them within these few years in severall places first in the Kings-county not far from the Shanon where being of a gray colour it is digged out of the Bogs And in the County of Wexford where the use of it was grown very common before this Rebellion especially in the parts lying near the sea where it stood them in very good steed the land of it self being nothing fruitfull For although the ground for the most part is a good black earth yet the same being but one foot deep and having underneath a crust of stiff yellow clay of half a foot is thereby greatly impaired in its own goodness In this depth of a foot and a half next under the clay lyeth the Marle the which reacheth so far downwards that yet no where they are come to the bottom of it It is of a blew colour and very fat which as in other ground so in this is chiefly perceived when it is wet but brittle and dusty when it is dry Sect. 2. The manner charges and profit of Marling the ground The Marle is layd upon the land in heaps by some before it is plowed by others after many letting it lye several moneths ere they plow it again that the Rain may equally divide and mixe it the Sun Moon and Air mellow and incorporate it with the earth One thousand Cart-loads of this goeth to one English Acre of ground it being very chargeable for even to those who dig it out of their own ground so as they are at no other expences but the hire of the labourers every Acre cometh to stand in three pounds sterling But these great expences are sufficiently recompenced by the great fruitfulness which it causeth being such as may seem incredible for the Marled-land even the very first year fully quitteth all the cost bestowed on it There besides it is sufficient once to Marle whereas the ordinary dunging must be renewed oftentimes Sect. 3. The usage of the Marled-land practised by them of the County of Wexford The good usage of the Marled-land to keep it in heart for ever after doth consist in the opinion and practise of some in letting it ly Fallow at convenient times but the ordinary manner commonly practised by the inhabitants of the County of Wexford and counted the best by them is that having sowed it five or six years together with the richest sorts of Corn to wit Wheat and Barley especially that sort which in some parts of England and generally in Ireland is peculiarly called Bear being a much richer Grain than the ordinary Barley it being afterwards turned to Pasture whereunto it is very fit forasmuch as it bringeth very sweet grass in great abundance For the Marle is also used on Meddows at the first with very good success improving the same most wonderfully If the Marled-land be thus used and by turns kept under Corn and Grass it keeps its fruitfulness for ever where to the contrary if year after year it be sowed till the heart be drawn out it 's quite spoyled so as afterwards it is not possible to bring it again to any passable condition by any kind of Dunging or Marling This would ordinarily be done in the space of ten yeares for so long together the Marled-land may be sowed and bring every year a rich crop of the best Corn. Nevertheless this is not generall but taketh place onely in the worser kind of ground for where the land of it self is better and richer there after Marling Wheat and other Corn may be sowed not only for ten yeares together but longer For very credible persons have assured me that some parts of the County of Wexford having bo●n very good Corn for thirteen yeares together and afterwards being turned to Pasture it was as good and fertile as other Marled-grounds that had been under Corn but five or six years Sect. 4. Of the Marle in Connaught The Province of Connaught by what hath been discovered is much more plentifull in Marle than Leinster as in other Counties so in those of Roscoman Slego and Galloway almost in every part of it It is there of three several colours some being white as chalk other gray and some black but none blew as that in the County of Wexford It lyeth nothing deep under the upper-ground or surface of the earth commonly not above half a foot but it s own depth is so great that never any body yet digged to the bottom of it The land which they intend to Marle in this Province is commonly plowed in the beginning of May and lying five or six weeks untill it be sufficiently dryed and mellowed by the Sun and Wind they harrow it and then having brought the Marle upon it five or six weeks after it is plowed again and a third time about September After which third plowing they sow it with Wheat or Barley whereof they have a very rich crop the next year Sect. 5. Property and usage of the Marled-lands in Connaught Land Marled in that manner as we have said may be sowed ten or twelve yeares together the first eight or nine-with Wheat and Bear or Barley and the remaining three or four years with Oates afterwards the land is turned to pasture and having served some years in that kind it may be Marled anew and made as good for Corn as at the first For the observation of those of the County of Wexford that land may not be Marled more than once doth not take place in Connaught where it is an ordinary thing having some space of years to make it again I know some Gentlemen who have caused some parcels of land to be Marled thrice in the space of twenty yeares and have found very good profit by it But whether this be caused by the difference of the ground and Marle appearing also hereby that in Connaught they scarce lay the fourth part of the quantity of Marle on the ground of what they doe in the County of Wexford or by the carelesness or want of experience of those of that County I am not yet fully informed But thus much is known as well in Connaught as other parts that those who sow the Marled-land untill it can bear no more and be quite out of heart wil find it exceeding difficult if not altogether impossible ever to amend or improve
at any time hath applyed himself to that business or in the least manner furthered it So that all the Mines which to this day are found out in Ireland have been discovered at least as for to make any use of them by the New-English that is such as are come in during and since the reign of Queen Elizabeth Severall whereof having begun to give their minds to it during the last Peace have in a few years found out a great many Iron-Mines in sundry parts of the Kingdom and also some of Lead and Silver which greatly confirmeth the opinion of many knowing persons who hold that the Mountains of Ireland are full of Metals and that if the same industry and diligence had been used by the inhabitants of that Country in former Ages as there hath been since the beginning of the present many more Mines might have been discovered not only of the same Minerals as have been found out hitherto but of others also and perhaps even of Gold it self Sect. 2. Grounds to beleeve that there are Gold-mines in Ireland I beleeve many will think it very unlikely that there should be any Gold-mines in Ireland but a credible person hath given me to understand that one of his acquaintance had severall times assured him that out of a certain rivelet in the County of nether-Tirone called Miola the which rising in the Mountains Slew-galen and passing by the village Maharry falleth into the North-west corner of Lough-Neaugh close by the place where the River Band commeth out of it hee had gathered about one dram of pure gold concluding thereby that in the aforesaid Mountains rich Gold-mines doe lye hidden For it is an ordinary thing for rivers which take their originall in gold-bearing mountains to carry Gold mixt with their sand the which may bee confirmed by many instances and to say nothing of severall Rivers of that kind mentioned by Staabo Pliny other old Geographers and Historians nor of Pactolus and Hermus in Lydia and Tagus in Spain whereof all the old Poets are full it is certain that in our very times severall rivers in Germanie as the Elbe Schwarts Sala and others doe carrie gold and have it mixed with their sands out of the which by the industry of man it is collected Sect. 3. Three sorts of Iron-mines in Ireland and first of the first sort Bog-mine But to let alone uncertain conjectures and to content our selves with the Mines that are already discovered we will in order speak of them and begin with the Iron-mines Of them there are three sorts in Ireland for in some places the Oar of the Iron is drawn out of Moores and Bogs in others it is hewen out of Rocks and in others it is digged out of Mountains of which three sorts the first is called Bog-mine the other Rock-mine and the third with severall names White-mine Pin-mine and Shel-mine The first sort as wee have said and as the name it self doth shew is found in low and boggie places out of the which it is raised with very little charge as lying not deep at all commonly on the superficies of the earth and about a foot in thickness This Oar is very rich of metall and that very good and tough nevertheless in the melting it must be mingled with some of the Mine or Oar of some of the other sorts for else it is too harsh and keeping the furnace too hot it melteth too suddenly and stoppeth the mouth of the furnace or to use the workmens own expression choaketh the furnace Whilest this Oar is new it is of a yellowish colour and the substance of it somewhat like unto clay but if you let it lye any long time in the open air it groweth not only very dry as the clay useth to doe but moldereth and dissolveth of it self and falleth quite to dust or sand and that of a blackish or black-brown colour Sect. 4. Of the second sort of Iron-mine called Rock-mine The second sort that which is taken out of Rocks being a hard and meer stony substance of a dark and rustie colour doth not lye scattered in severall places but is a piece of the very rock of the which it is hewen which Rock being covered over with earth is within equallie every where of the same substance so as the whole Rock and every parcell thereof is Oar of Iron This Mine as well as the former is raised with little trouble for the Iron-rock being full of joints is with pick-axes easily divided and broken into pieces of what bigness one will which by reason of the same joints whereof they are full every where may easily be broke into other lesser pieces as that is necessary before they be put into the furnace This Mine or Oar is not altogether so rich as the Bog-mine and yeeldeth very brittle Iron hardly fit for any thing else but to make plow-shares of it from whence the name of colt-share Iron is given unto it and therefore is seldom melted alone but mixed with the first or the third sort Of this kind hitherto there hath but two Mines been discovered in Ireland the one in Munster neer the town of Tallo by the Earl of Cork his Iron works the other in Leinster in Kings county in a place called Desert land belonging to one Serjeant Major Piggot which rock is of so great a compass that before this rebellion it furnished divers great Iron-works and could have furnished many more without any notable diminution seeing the deepest pits that had been yet made in it were not above two yards deep The land under which this rock lyeth is very good and fruitfull as much as any other land thereabouts the mold being generallie two feet and two and a half and in many places three feet deep Sect. 5. Of the third sort of Iron-mine The third sort of Iron-mine is digged out of the mountains in severall parts of the Kingdome in Vlster in the County of Fermanagh upon Lough Earne in the County of Cavan in a place called Douballie in a drie mountain and in the County of Nether-Tirone by the side of the rivelet Lishan not farre from Lough Neaugh at the foot of the mountains Slew-galen mentioned by us upon an other occasion in the beginning at this Chapter in Leinster in Kings-countie hard by Mountmelick and in Queens-countie two miles from Mountrath in Connaught in Tomound or the County of Clare six miles from Limmerick in the County of Roscomen by the side of Lough Allen and in the County of Letrim on the East-side of the said Lough where the mountains are so full of this metall that thereof it hath got in Irish the name of Slew Neren that is Mountains of Iron and in the Province of Munster also in sundry places This sort is of a whitish or gray colour like that of ashes and one needs not take much pains for to find it out for the mountaines which doe contain it within themselves doe commonly shew it of