in the morning to twelue We come out at first tenne companions in this iourney but at the very comming out 〈◊〉 six of them left vs despairing to passe against a contrary winde in a foule rainy day and their feet sticking fast in the dirt and they mocked at our obstinacy in going Within a while my selfe was wet to the skinne and my shooes at euery step were almost to the off so as I was forced to binde them on with foure points neither did any of vs looke backe at his fellow to helpe him if hee could not follow and if I should haue fallen into the Sea I am confident none of them would haue come back to succour me After we had gone halfe a mile one of our foure companions being a young man with a blacke beard able body would not goe one foot further though he had but one Stiuer in his purse and was forced to borrow money of vs that he might stay in a poore Ale-house When we came to Aldernsea the Free-booters spies came to the Inne gaped vpon vs so as though I were wet to the skin yet I durst not pull off any thing to dry sest my inward garments better then my vpper should betray my disguise neither durst I call for wine and spend freely lest they should thinke I had store of money Each of vs paied seuen Stiuers for his dinner Here another of our companions left vs being so tired as hee went to bed without eating one bit So as now I had onely one companion left called Anthony a man of little stature and a Citizen of Emden We so be free of this dangerous iourney went forward and as we came out of the Village the Free-booters spies came close to vs and beheld vs narrowly but seeing vs all couered with dirt they tooke vs for poore men and a prey vnfit to be followed Wee gathering vp strength went on till at last wee were so weary as hauing no strength to chuse our way wee cast away our staues and went almost vp to the knees in dirt in the lower way At last hauing gone one mile as me thought wondrous long from one of the clocke in the afternoone to fiue wee came to Emden where my selfe entring the gate could not stand till the Souldiers writ our names but had lyen downe on the ground if they had not giuen mee a seat Now being out of all danger of the Free-booters in giuing my name I wrote my selfe an English-man the standers by not a little wondring that I had put my self to this dangerous passage And truly this iourney if it were free from all danger yet the ill diet and lodging would yeeld trouble enough for which I appeale to Lipsius who hath pleasantly written of the entertainement in West-Phalen and Oldenburg The Citie of Emden lies in the vtmost border of the Empire and is onely diuided by the Riuer Emsz from the vnited Prouince of Netherland and by an Inland Sea from West Freez-land being one of them The Countrey about Emden aboundeth with villages and from a Tower at Goricome a man may see at once vpon a saire day twenty two walled Townes Not farre from this City neere 〈◊〉 is the place where the Duke of Alūa defeated the forces of Lodwick of Nassaw his Dutch-men refusing to fight except they were first paied All the fields about Emden are drowned in winter and the City lying vpon the Sea for want of fresh waters they dresse most of their meat with raine water The aire is very vnhealthfull but the City is fairely built of bricke and the Citizens are very curteous On the South side the Riuer Emsz washeth the City with his salt streames on which side is the Hauen and the Citizens are said to haue some three score ships of a hundred tunnes a peece and some six hundred barkes of their owne In the Church-yard on this side many peeces of Ordinance are laid towards Leere and Dunort the Counts Fort and the like are laid vpon the Hauen and some places of aduantage for the City hath no walles on this side On the West side beyond the water lyeth Marish ground to the mouth of the Sea and vpon this side is a strong old Castle On the North side the City is compassed with a wall of earth and deepe ditches full of water and there be two strong gates Belgar-port and New-port without which the fields are Fenny On this side there is a passage by boat to the suburbes on the East side where the fields without the towne are faire pastures in summer but all ouerflowed in winter and vpon the Rampier of the wall are many Winde-mils The City is of a round forme if it were not somewhat longer from the East to the West At Emden they pay ordinarily six Stiuers a meale three stiuers for a quart of English beere eleuen Stiuers for a quart of Spanish wine thirteene Stiuers a quart of Rhenish wine and seuen Stiuers for French wine my selfe paid for supper and breakfast twenty three Stiuers CHAP. IIII. Of my iourney from Emden in Germany to Leyden in Holland and through the vnited Prouinces of the Low-Countries ON Thursday the twenty seuen of October in the yeere 1592 I tooke ship after dinner at Emden being to saile into West Freesland one of the vnited Prouinces and paied for my passage tenne Stiuers The same night wee cast anchor neere Vrspenhurn a Fort seated beyond the Emsz and belonging to the States of the vnited Prouinces and beyond this Port towards Plaunders on the same side of the Emsz lieth the Territory of the City Groning seated in an Iland rich in pastures and at this time gouerned by a Spanish Garrison which the Citizens had willingly receiued though the States after besieged this City and droue out the Spaniards and vnited the City to the rest As we lay at Anchor two little Ilands lay on the North side one subiect to Emden the other to Groning and beyond them lay the German Sea On Friday wee set saile with a scant winde and towards night were left vpon a Flat vulgarly called Gat where the water forsaking vs we walked out of the ship vpon the sand compassed round about with the Sea till the same flowing backe againe our ship floated On Saterday we set saile againe and towards night rested vpon a like Flat expecting the floud Three of these Flats are in this Inland sea and there be two like Flats in the Inland sea beteene Freesland and Holland At last wee landed on Sunday in Freesland at the Village Aniou lying neere the Sea shore whether wee hired a sledge for eight stiuers and were drawne thither ouer the yce and snow After we had dined for twelue stiuers each man whereof more then halfe was reckoned for drinke we went in a skeut by water in foure houres space one mile to Dockam and each man paid for his passage foure stiuers and a halfe we could not passe
cast vp in the middest of the Sea with an eruption of flames and of Brimstone and that they are not inhabited but are commonly called the Diuels Ilands because many ships casting anchor there and fastning their Cables vpon land haue had their Cables loosed by spirits in the night and so suffered shipwrack or hardly escaped the same The night following we sailed in the middest of many Ilands which made that Channell very dangerous and for my part I was more affraid of the danger because our Candian Merchant growing acquainted with an harlot in the ship was not ashamed to haue the vse of her body in the sight of the Marriners that watched and much blamed him for the same Vpon Wednesday the two and twentie of December we sailed by the Iland Paros celebrated by Poets for the fine Marble growing there and so we came to the Iland Naxos two hundred miles distant from Candia Naxos and the adiacent Ilands had their owne Duke of old but now are subiect to the Turke as the other Ilands bee for the most part And our Marriners dwelling in this Iland and landing to see their wiues we also landed with them where I did see vpon a Hill like a Peninsul neere this chiefe Village two Marble images erected to Thesius and Ariadne Here I obserued that when any stranger or Inhabitant lands the beggers flock to the dores of the houses or Innes where they eate and hauing formerly obserued in the Greeke Church at Venice that when they gaue their Almes to beggers they not onely suffered them to touch their garments with their lousie rags but also tooke them familiarly by the hands I knew not whether I should attribute this fashion to their charitable affection in time of their bondage or to their seldom feasting and the multitude of beggars In the euening we loosed from Naxos and sailing ouer a channell no lesse dangerous then the former for the multitude of Ilands vpon the three and twentie of December we passed close by the shoare of the Iland Zio called Chios of old It is inhabited by Greekes as the other Ilands are and is famous for the pleasantnesse and fertiltie of the situation and soyle It yeeldeth great store of Mastick and the country people keepe flocks of raine Partridges as of Hens other where They brag that Homer lyes buried vpon the Mountaine Helias and this Iland hath Saint George for their protecting Saint and beares his Crosse in their Flags as England doth Here we might distinctly see the shoare of Asia in that part where of old the seuen Churches stood not farre distant to which Saint Iohn writes his Reuelation And the Iland Pathmos is not farre distant where Saint Iohn liued in exile Towards the euening we cast anchor neere the Iland Metelene which is seated as Zio in the Egean Sea and is no lesse pleasant and fertile Of old it was called Lesbos then Issa and after Pelasgia and therein were borne Pythagoras the Poet Alceus Antimenides Theophrastus Phanius Arion and Tersandrus and the famous woman Poet Sapho Zio is distant one hundred and forty miles from Naxos and Meteline ninety miles from Zio The foure and twenty of December being Christmas euen after the old stile vsed among the Greekes and in all Turkey early in the morning we weighed anchor and with a faire but gentle wind sayled close by the shoare where the City of Troy stood of old seated in a plaine and vpon pleasant hils neere the Sea and at this day the ruines of Illium the Castle of Priamus are seene vpon a hill and the ruines of the wals in the plaine yet shew the circuit of the City The Poets said truly Hic seges est vbi Troia fuit Corne growes now where Troy once stood Yet the plowed fields haue very many ruines of buildings On the North side of these Troian ruines a necke of Land lies towards the Sea where they say the Greekes encamped and left their fatall Troian Horse Right ouer against this Land lies the Iland Tenedos scarce ten miles distant in the Hauen whereof we cast anchor for an hower vnder a little Castle and this Tenedos is sixty miles distant from Metelene From hence sailing some eighteene miles we passed by two necks of Land one of Greece on the West-side the other of Asia the lesse now called Natolia on the East-side and after twelue miles saile we entered the streight of Hellespont now called the two Castles the description whereof I will defer till my returne this way The Greek Marriners haue a custome here to demand a gift of all Merchants passengers in their ship for ioy of their happy voyage and they say which I beleeue not that if any refuse they tie a rope to his feete and draw him vp to the top of the maste till he yeeld to this custome but howsoeuer we all obeyed this ridiculous custome not to offend them who had vsed vs well This channell running from the blacke sea called Euxinus into Propontis and so by Constantinople to these said two Castles and from hence into the AEgean sea from the North towards the South is alwaies contrary to those that sayle from the mediteranian sea to Constantinople especially after they enter this streight of the two Castles and neere Constantinople it runnes with such force towards the South as they that saile to the City whereof we had experience with the best winds yet sayle very slowly This violence of the Channell is attributed to great Riuers violently falling into the blacke Sea The foresaid Christmas euen we landed at Gallipolis a Greeke City seated in Thrace hauing the name as it seemes from the French and eight and twenty miles distant from the two Castles On Saturday the fiue and twenty of December being Christmas day after the old stile we set saile but the winds droue vs backe to the Hauen of Gallipolis where being detained some few daies though I staied in the ship for feare of some fraud from the Turkes yet once I went on Land with our Marriners The City lieth in length vpon the shoare of Propontis from the South to the North and it hath without the wals towards the West great number of Wind-mils the buildings are of slint or little vnpolished stones one or two stories high and the roofe is low and tiled not plaine and plastered to walke vpon as they be in Syrea and Cyprus and this roofe is so low as it hath no windowes so as the buildings of these parts are very like those of Italy The Hauen is on the East side and vpon the opposite shoare of Asia towards the East are the ruines not farre distant of Nice a City of Bithinia famous for the holy Councell held there of old Vpon Saterday the first of Ianuary we sailed sixty miles in this straight of Propontis to the Iland Marmora not without feare of Turkish Pirats the Hauen of
and the State of Venice would assist the Raguzeant against them and no way indure that the Turkish Ottoman should make himselfe Lord of that Hauen Vpon the three and twenty of Aprill towards euening we sayled by the little Iland Augusta being yet of a good large circuit and populous and subiect to the Raguzeans but the Coast is dangerous for ships arriuall by reason of the Rockes called the Augustines and by the little Iland Corsolavi Some Ilands in this Sea are subiect to the Raguzeans and some neere to the Northerne continent haue the Great Turke for their Lord but the rest are subiect to the Venetians and are very many in number but little and good part of them little or not at all inhabited The Italians our consorts told vs of an Iland not farre distant called Pelaguza and lying neere the continent of Italy vpon the Coast whereof the famous Turkish Pyrate of Algier a Hauen in Africa was lately wont to houer and lie hidden and made rich booties of the Venetian and Italian Merchants Vpon Sunday the foure and twenty of Aprill we had in sight and little distant the little Ilands Catza and Lissa and in the afternoone on our left hand towards Italy the Iland Pomo and in the euening towards Dalmatia two Ilands and vpon the continent the City Zaga being some two hundred miles distant from Venice And the night following we sailed ouer an arme of the Sea some thirty miles broade lying betweene Dalmatia and Istria called Il Cornaro which we passed without any appearance of danger though otherwise it be generally reputed so dangerous as the Venetians offended with any Marriner vse this imprecation Maledetto sia il Cornaro che t' ha lasciato passare that is Cursed be the Cornaro for letting thee passe Vpon Monday the fiue and twenty of Aprill as we sailed by the Coast of Istria one of the Marriners aged and as we thought honest and of some authority among the rest priuately admonished me that I should safely locke vp our goods in our chests left the inferior Marriners should steale our shirts or any other thing they found negligently left which they vsed to doe especially at the end of any voyage Vpon Tuesday the sixe and twenty of April we cast anchor beyond Pola in the continent of Istria a City now ruined and vpon the seuen and twenty day we entred the Hauen of Rouinge in Istria subiect to the Venetians where the ships vse to take a Pilot for their owne safety or els are tied so to doe by some old priuiledge of that City Here the Prouisors for health gaue vs liberty of free conuersation as they had formerly done at Zante seeing no man in our ship to be sicke or sickely And I did not a little wonder when I obserued each second or third person of this City to halt and be lame of one foot which made me remember the Citizens of Islebe in Germany and in the Prouince of Saxony where almost all the men haue wry neckes whereof I knew the cause namely because they vsed daily to dig in mines with their neckes leaning on one side but of this common lamenes of the Inhabitants in Rouinge I could not learne any probable cause except it were the foule disease of lust raigning in those parts which I rather thought likely because the lamenesse was common to weomen as men Now the sayling in our great ship was like to be more trouble some dangerous and slow whereupon fiue of vs ioyning together did vpon the thirtieth of Aprill after the old stile hier a boate of sixe Oares for seuen Venetian Duckets to Venice where we arriued the next day towards euening and staied in our boat vpon the wharfe of the Market place of Saint Marke till the Prouisors of health sitting in their Office neere that place came vnto vs and after some conference vnderstanding that we and our ship were free of all infection or sicknesse gaue vs free liberty of conuersation Wee staied three dayes at Venice to refresh our selues and paied each man three lyres for each meale in a Dutch Inne Then hauing receiued money of a Merchant I went to the Village Mestre and there bought of Dutchmen newly arriued in Italy two horses for my selfe and my man the one for thirtie the other for twentie ducates These horses I sold at Stode in Germany after my iourney ended at or about the same rate He that hath the Dutch tongue and either knowes the waies of Germany himselfe or hath consorts skilfull therein being to trauell from Stode or those parts into Italy shall finde more profit in buying a horse in those parts of Germany for so hee shall saue great summes vsually paid for coches and at the iournies end or rather by the way towards the ende of his iourney may in Italy sell his horses with good profit In the Village Mestre each of vs paid each meale fiftie soldi that is two lires and a halfe From hence we took the right way to Augsburg in Germany to Nurnberg Brunswick and to Stode an old Citie lying on the Northern Sea of Germany The particulars of which iourney I here omit hauing in my iourney to Ierusalem passed the very same way from Stode to Venice So as it shall suffice to adde some few things in generall Within the confines of Italy each man of vs paid for each meale fortie and sometimes fiftie Venetian soldi and for hay and stable for his horse commonly at noone foure soldi at night twelue soldi and for ten measures of oates giuen each day to each horse fiftie soldi After we entred Germany each man paid each meale commonly twentie creitzers at Inspruch twentie foure and somtimes twentie six creitzers for hay six creitzers a day or there-abouts and for ten measures of oates seruing one horse for a day wee paid fiftie creitzers In the middle Prouinces of Germany each of vs paid for each meale commonly sixteene creitzers that is foure batzen and in the parts vpon the Northerne sea some foure Lubeck shillings And from the Citie Armstat seated betweene Augsburg and Nurnberg to the said Northern sea side we had a new measure of oates called Hembd one of which measures was sold for some tenne Lubeck shillings and serued three horses for our baite at noone and another was almost sufficient for them at night From Stode seated vpon the German Sea we passed in a boat to the outmost Hauen where wee went abroad an English ship vpon the fourth of Iuly after the old stile being Tuesday The sixt of Iuly early in the morning we set sayle and the eight of Iuly we came vpon the most wished land of England and cast anchor neere Orford a Castle in Suffolke Vpon Saturday the ninth of Iuly after the old stile we landed at Grauesend and without delay with the night-tide passed in a boat to London where we ariued on Sunday at foure of the clock in the morning the tenth of
by waggon the high way being then drowned Nothing were more pleasant nothing more quicke then Sea-voyages if a man might promise himselfe a good wind and a reasonable gale but through contrariety of winds and tempests they commonly proue tedious This small voyage which afflicted vs foure daies might haue beene passed in sixe houres if the winds had fauoured vs. And this hope of a short passage caused vs to make no prouision of victuals so as the Barke being gouerned by one Mariner and a boy who had nothing but cheese and musty bread to liue vpon and so could not much releeue vs each houre of these foure daies seemed a yeere vnto vs. Dockam a City of West Freesland little in circuit is in two places diuided with water which at this time ouer flowed into the very houses The wall is strong with rampiers of earth and the houses here as in all these parts of Netherland are built of bricke Here I paid for my supper twenty stiuers eating at an Ordinary but the company sitting at the fire and drinking after supper all vseth to be diuided equally whether a man drinke or not The first of Nouember we went by water in sixe houres space two miles to Lewerden hauing on each side the water fertile pastures and passing by two Forts and each man paid for his passage three stiuers The City is faire and well fortified and William Count of Nassau cousin to Count Maurice and Gouernour of Friesland had his residence in the same The streetes are large and diuided with water and the houses are fairely builded of bricke The City hath no Suburbs and is of a round forme but the waters diuiding the streetes slowly or not at all moued are in this City as almost in all other of these Prouinces subiect to stinking In the midst of the City there is a dam tolet in water at pleasure which in this place and two miles further is salt in tast Passengers entering the City leaue their swords with the guard of souldiers and receiue them backe when they goe out of the Towne The Villages hereabouts paid yeerely contribution to the Spanish garison of Groning left they should breake in and spoile them Here they say the first sermon of reformed religion was made in the Monastery of the Iacobinet and here I paid for my supper foureteene stiuers From Lewerden we went by water from eight a clocke in the morning to fiue in the afternoone two-miles to Froniker an Vniuersity of Friesland lately renewed and one mile to the City Harlingen and we paid six stiuers for our passage Entering this City we left our swords with the guard of souldiers who restored them to vs when wee went away It is a little City and lieth in length from the East to the West but is somewhat more narrow towards the North where the houses are thinly built On the west and North sides lies an arme of the Sea comming out of the German Sea and here inclosed with the continent and Ilands On the South and East sides without the gates are faire pastures in a large plaine I lodged in an Englishmans house the chiefe Host of the City who either dispising England and Englishmen or too much respecting his masters of Friesland gaue me such entertainment as I tooke him for one of the old Picts for hauing placed his Gentlemen of Friesland at one table he called me to the second and seeing that I tooke it in ill part lest I should no lesse dislike my lodging he intreated a gentleman of Friesland to admit me partner of his bed but I hearing the gentleman condition with him about the cleannesse of my body and linnen for very scorne would not trouble his worship but chose rather to lie vpon a bench And it was most ridiculous that this Host excused himselfe to me as hauing for countries sake made bold with me whom he had neuer seene before I paid for my supper and breakefast with wine thirty stiuers and one of my consorts drinking no wine paid sixeteene whereof nine was for beere From Harlingen I went by the said Inland Sea vulgarly called Zwidersea foureteene miles to Amsterdam and paid eight stiuers for my passage Some of our passengers going onely to Enchusen paid fiue stiuers for by couenant betweene the Cities the ships must land their passengers at Enchusen and there receiue such new passengers as they find and one ship at least is bound daily to make this passage From the said Harlingen a City of Friesland wee passed in foure houres saile to Enchusen a City of Holland which is fortified with a wall of earth and strong rampiers and lieth in length from the North to the South The Hauen lies on the East side and the new City was then building towards the West side This City lying betweene the mouth of the German sea and Amsterdam another City of Holland and in the beginning of the warre taking part with the Prince of Orange forced Amsterdam by stopping all supply of victuals to yeeld to the said Prince Hauing made short stay here we tooke ship againe and sayling from siue a clocke in the euening to twelue in the night in the same Inland sea we entered the Riuer Tay where we cast anchor till foure in the morning and then setting sayle passed one mile in that Riuer before sixe of the clocke and landed at Amsterdam Fiue streetes of this City are diuided with water the Riuer Tay flowes like a large and calme sea on the North side where is a safe port the trafficke being great in this City and at Midleburg since the passage to Antwerpe was stopped Vpon the Hauen lics a field or market place called Campplata where the Citizens vse to behold their friends going to sea and returning home From this place towards the South lies Warmerstrat a long and large street betweene two Riuers which part of the City is called the new Ditch The Merchants in summer meet vpon the Bridge and in winter they meet in the New Church in very great number where they walke in two rankes by couples one ranke going vp and another going downe and there is no way to get out of the Church except they slip out of the doores when in one of those rankes they passe by them On the East side of the City there is a wall of stone higher then the City hauing a pleasant walke vpon it In the same place are houses for exercise of shooting in gunneo and crosse-bowes beyond this wall there is another of earth and betweene these wals the new City was plotted out where of few houses were then built but since I heare it is fully finished Likewise on the South and West sides there be two like wals and between them the plot of the said new City in which many faire houses were then built The fields on all sides without the gates being fenny and drowned with water doe make the City more strong but
we had striuen yea and repined against his diuine prouidence which with humble and hearty sorrow I confesse to the glory of his sacred name In this Iland I paied for my supper and bed ten stiuers for my breakfast and dinner eight stiuers On Wednesday we had a most faire winde but the terrour of our last escape made vs stay in the harbour In the euening I went to lodge in the village and paied tenne stiuers for my supper and bed and there I saw great store of all kindes of shel-fish sold for a very small price Since this iourney by Sea had besides our expectation proued so difficult my selfe though I had seene the Cities vpon the sea coast of Germany yet preferring my safety before the charge and trouble of that way did resolue to passe to Hamburg by land with which purpose when I acquainted my consorts suddenly al the passengers resolued to leaue the ships and to go by land at which resolution the Masters of the ships stormed but when each of vs had payed them a Doller for our passage from Amsterdam to the Fly they were well pacified My selfe and nine consorts in my company hired a boat for thirty stiuers each man paying three stiuers and so vpon Thursday in foure houres space wee sailed three miles to Harlingen a City of west Freesland passing the aforesaid Inland sea And the same day hiring a boat for which each man paied six stiuers wee passed a mile to the City Froniker where is an Vniuersity and passing by water through the midst of that pleasant little City we passed two miles further to Lewerden where we lodged and I paied for my supper ten stiuers The next morning being Friday wee passed in six houres space two long miles to Dockam and each man paied for his boate hire three stiuers Without delay in the afternoone we entred a barke to saile from West Freesland one of the vnited Prouinces into East Freesland a Prouince of the German Empire but scarce one mile from the towne we cast anchor to expect the floud and lying there we heard from the land great noise barking of dogs cries of men and sounding of bells which proceeded from some Spanish Free-booters breaking out of Groning to spoile the Peasants All the next day wee sailed and in the euening for our better safety wee cast anchor neere a man of warre whereof there be some appointed to lie in this Inland Sea to guard the friends of the States and early the next morning being Sunday wee set saile and by the rising of the sunne landed in the Iland of Rotermere which is diuided from the continent by this Inland Sea and hath the maine Sea on the other side whence soone after we parted and were put on land in East Freesland a Prouince of the Empire and passing one mile on foot came to the City of Emden I said that the States maintained some men of warre in this Inland Sea and these vsed to send out in lesser boates some bodies of men to search the Barkes whether they be friends or not which bodies of men are vulgarly called Dieiagt that is the hunting of a metaphor taken from the hunting of dogs For my passage from Dockam to Emden I paid ten stiuers and here for supper and breakefast I paid twenty three stiuers though the ordinary rate be but sixe stiuers a meale without wine and for a pound of cherries I paid eight stiuers In our iourney to Stode the first day wee came in sixe houres space three miles to the village Detrem vpon the confines of the county of Emden passing through fruitfull corne fields and faire meadowes and being eight in the Waggon we all paid fifteene stiuers for the same From hence we went a mile through wild and fenny fields to the village Open and each foure consorts paid for their Waggon three stiuers and our Waggon was driuen by a woman Here the Graue or Count of Oldenburg hath a Castle and each man paid for his supper seuen groates By night we passed foure miles through a wild heath to Oldenburg and foure consorts paid ten stiuers for a Waggon They haue very little horses in these parts to draw the Waggons like to the gallo way nags of Scotland The second day wee passed two miles and a halfe in foure houres space through a sandy heath ground and thicke woods of oake and came to a Village where each man paid for his dinner foure stiuers After dinner we passed more then a mile through a like wooddy Heath and in three houres space came to Delmerhurst where the Count of Oldenburge hath a faire and strong Castle though it be a poore Village and here each man paid halfe a stiuer to the Count and for our Waggon ten stiuers The same day we passed a mile through sandy pastures and in three houres space came to Breme where each man paid for our Waggon foure groats and for our supper fiue lubecke shillings From Breme we passed foure miles through wild fields yeelding some little corne and thicke woods and in sixe houres space came to a poore house where each man paid for dinner fiue lubecke shillings Here those which carried any merchandise paid tole and one man hauing a packe which a man might carry on his shoulder paid foure lubecke shillings for the same but all that goe to study in Vniuersities or be no Merchants are free from this imposition After dinner we passed three miles in fiue houres space to Furd where each man paid for his supper fiue lubecke shillings The next day from two of the clocke in the morning to seuen wee passed three miles through a heath and woods of oake and came to Stode where each man paid for his Waggon from Breme twenty two Lubecke shillings At Stode I paid for my dinner in a Dutch Inne foure Lubecke shillings and a halfe and for a steifkin or measure of Rhenish wine halfe a doller I briefly passe ouer this iourney vpon the sea-coast of Germany because I formerly discribed the same The one and twenty of Iuly I passed in foure houres space by boat fiue miles to Hamburge and paid for my passage by water three Lubecke shillings for my supper foure and one for my bed Early in the morning I passed six miles in sixe houres space through wild fenny fields woods of oake and some few fields of corne and came to the Village Altslow seated in a bogge whereof it hath the name where I paid for my dinner fiue Lubecke shillings and a halfe Giue me leaue to tell you a ridiculous toy yet strange and true At Hamburge gate leading to Lubecke we found a dogge that followed vs and some passengers of credit assured mee that for many yeeres this dogge had lien at that gate and euery day without intermission watching the first Coach that came forth had followed the same to this village Altslow being the bayting place at noone and after dinner had returned backe to Hamburge gate with
we walked on foot one mile to Midleburge where being inuited by our friends as we were at Vlishing we supped on free cost The twelfth day wee passed by Sea in two houres space to Armuren where wee cast anchor not without feare of Spanish Pirats who comming with small boates out of the Castle Wouda did then many robberies vpon this Sea The thirteenth day in the morning wee sailed nine miles to the Iland Plat where a Man of warre sent out by the States against these Pirats did lie at anchor vnder the guard whereof we also lay at anchor the night following The fourteenth day in the morning hauing alwaies a faire winde wee sailed eight milcs to Delphs hauen in Holland where we left our Barke and each man payed twelue stiuers for his passage and my selfe gaue three stiuers to a Marriner that had attended me From hence my selfe and three consorts hired a Wagon for 18 stiuers to the Hage where I payed for my supper a Flemish guilden and seuenteene stiuers The fiftenth day of December which after the new stile was Christmas day that Feast by the old stile falling on the twentie fiue of December my selfe and three consorts hired a Wagon for two guldens for two long miles to Leyden From Leyden at a set hower euery day boates passe to all the next Cities and we entring the boat that went for Amsterdam payed each of vs 6 stiuers for our passage First wee passed fiue miles vpon the Lake called Harlam Meare which Lake is much subiect to Tempests Our boate was then drawne by force of hands ouer a Damme into a Channell of water in which we passed two miles and so came to Amsterdam The boates are thus drawne out of the Lake into the Channell by a priuiledge granted to Harlam because that Citie had spent much money in the workes for conueyance of waters And this was granted to them to the ende that this passage being shut vp to Barkes of greater burthen the Merchants wares passing by land should be forced to come by Harlam We lodged in a English Merchants house at Amsterdam and payed eight stiuers for each meale The seuenteenth of December we entred a little ship to saile out of Holland into West-Freesland but being almost frozen in with yce after wee had sailed two dayes and a night with great danger through huge pieces of yce and were the second night also compassed therewith and had been forced to lie at anchor a good space we hardly arriued the third day at Horne in North Holland which Citie is fiue miles distant from Amsterdam and each man payed ten stiuers for our passage and two stiuers for the vse of a little cabbin in the ship The ninteenth day we would needs go on foot two miles as long as ten English miles to Enchnsen because they asked foure guldens and a half for a Wagon And in the mid way it hapned that we light vpon a sledg which wee 4 consorts hired for 20 stiuers and therin wee were all carried but for my part I paied 5 stiuers more for the cariage of my necessaries And we could not sufficiently maruell at our first setting forth that the Villages should be so frequent in such an obscure Countrey as wee could hardly see how they were parted one from the other for halfe the way at least From hence we sailed with a very faire wind in three houres space two miles to Stauern a Village seated in West Freezland and each man paid ten stiuers for his passage foure for his supper and foure for beere The next day we passed on foot one mile of Freezland which miles are exceeding long to Warcome and we hired two Clownes for two guldens to carry our necessaries which Clownes drinking stoutly all the night we were forced beyond our bargaine to pay for their intemperance which wrong we could not auoid though we much repined at it Early in the morning we passed by water one mile ouer a Lake to Bolsworth and each man paid two stiuers and a halfe for his passage and eight stiuers and a halfe for his dinner In the afternoone we hired a boat for three miles to Lewerden and each man paid sixe stiuers for his passage and thirty foure stiuers for his supper and breakefast with wine The next day in the morning we might haue passed to Groning in a common boat each man paying twelue stiuers but because the couetous Marriners had ouerloaded it and the winds were boisterous we foure consorts hired a priuate boate for seuen guldens and a halfe The first day we passed by water fiue miles to Kaltherberg that is the cold Inne with a very faire wind but so boysterous as we were in no small feare Here each man paid twelue stiuers for his supper and seuen stiuers for his drinke while in good fellowship we sate at the fier after supper The next day we passed in the same boat two miles to Groning in a great tempest of wind besides that in the midst of the Lake we lost our Rudder being thereby in great danger had not the waues of the water by Gods mercy driuen it to vs. Here we paid eight stiuers each man for a plentifull dinner but without wine In the afternoone we passed by water two miles to Delphs I le and each man paid forty stiuers for the hier of the boate and twenty foure stiuers for supper and breakefast and fire in our priuate chamber From hence we sayled with a most faire wind in two houres space two miles to Emden the first City of the German Empire seated in East Friezland and each man paid sixe stiuers for his passage and as much for his dinner In the afternoone we passed in a boat hired for foure guldens whereof each man paid ten stiuers for his part three miles to a little City Lyre and by the way passed by the Fort Nordlire in which the Earle of Emden held his Court. We rested at Lyre this night and the next day being Christmas day by the old stile and each man paid sixteene stiuers for each supper and eight stiuers for one dinner The Spanish Garisons daily sent out free-booters into these parts with the permission of the Earle of Emden for his hatred to the Citizens of Emden who lately had shut him out of their City and of the Earle of Oldenburge for his hatred against the Citizens of Breme Therefore we being here many passengers did at last obtaine of the Earle of Emden that we might hier his souldiers to conduct vs safely for some few miles To these souldiers we gaue twenty one dollers yet when at the three miles end we came to the Village Stickhausen and were now in the greatest danger they as hired to goe no further would needes returne till each of vs gaue them a German gulden to conduct vs onely to the next village being the confines of the Counties of Emdens and Oldenburg To which they were perswaded not so much by our prayers as by
suddenly he changed his minde for feare of a great Rhume wherewith he was troubled or being discouraged with the difficulty of the iourney and would needs returne to Emden with purpose if hee were to be belieued to returne the next Spring to some place neere Ierusalem in an English ship which he thought more commodious He professed that he had put much money out vpon his returne and since hee was old and very sickly and after so long a iourney and so much money spent would needes returne home I cannot thinke that he euer vndertooke this iourney againe Many Papists thinke they must haue the Popes Licence to goe this iourney and Villamont a French Gentlemen writes that otherwise they incurre the censure of the Church and affirmes that the Pope writ vnder his licence these words Fiat quod petitar that is let that be granted which is craued and vnder the remission of his sinnes Fiat Faelix that is Let him be made happy And he addes that he was forced to take as much paines and to spend as much and to vse as much helpe of the Popes Officers for the obtaining of these two sutes as if he had beene a suter for a Bishoppricke But I know many Papists that haue gone from Venice to Hierusalem who either cared not for this licence or neuer thought vpon it and how soeuer it may giue some credulous men hope of fuller indulgence or merit surely it will serue them for no other vse Among our consorts I neuer heard any mention thereof neither did the Friars at Ierusalem inquire after it When I first began to thinke of vndertaking this iourney it was told me that each Ascension day a Venetian gally was set forth to carry Pilgrimes to Ierusalem But it seemes that this custome is growne out of vse since few are found in these daies who vndertake this iourney in regard of the Turkes imposing great exactions and doing foule iniuries to them For the very Friars which euery third yeere are sent into those parts to doe diuine duties to the Papist Merchants there abiding the Friars formerly sent being recalled vse to passe in no other then common Merchants ships In the end of March we had the opportunity of a ship passing into Asia which at that time of the yeere is not rare This ship was called the lesse Lyon and the Master whom the Italians cal Patrono was Constantine Coluri a Grecian as most part of the Marriners are Greekes the Italians abhorring from being sea men Concerning diet some agreed with the Steward of the ship called Ilscalco and they paid by the moneth foure siluer crownes each crowne at seuen lyres and I marked their Table was poorely scrued For our part we agreed with the Master himselfe who for seuen gold crownes by the month paid by each of vs did curteously admit vs to his Table and gaue vs good diet seruing each man with his knife and spoone and his forke to hold the meat whiles he cuts it for they hold it ill manners that one should touch the meat with his hand and with a glasse or cup to drinke in peculiar to himselfe Hee gaue vs wine mingled with water and fresh bread for two or three daies after we came out of any harbour and otherwise bisket which we made soft by soaking it in wine or water In like sort at first setting forth he gaue vs fresh meates of flesh and after salted meates and vpon fasting dayes he gaue vs egges fishes of diuers kinds dried or pickled sallets sod Rice and pulse of diuers kinds Oyle in stead of butter Nuts fruit Cheese and like things Also we agreed that if our iourney were ended before the moneth expired a rateable proportion of our money should be abated to vs. Each of vs for his passage agreed to pay fiue siluer crownes of Italy And howsoeuer I thinke they would not haue denied vs wine or meat betweene meales if we had beene drie or hungry yet to auoide troubling of them my selfe and my brother carried some flaggons of rich wine some very white bisket some pruines and raisins and like things And to comfort our stomackes in case of weakenesse we carried ginger nutmegs and some like things and for remedies against agues we carried some cooling sirops and some pounds of sugar and some laxatiue medicines Also we carried with vs two chests not onely to lay vp these things but also that we might sleepe and rest vpon them at pleasure and two woollen little mattresses to lie vpon and foure quilts to couer vs and to lay vnder vs which mattresses and quilts we carried after by land or else we should haue beene farre worse lodged in the houses of Turkes besides that many times we lay in the field vnder the starry cannopy In stead of sheetes we vsed linnen breeches which we might change at pleasure Howsoeuer all Nations may vse their owne apparell in Turky yet the clothes of Europe and especially the short clokes are most offensiue to them so as the wearer prouoketh them thereby to doe him iniuries Therefore my selfe and my brother bought each of vs a long coat of as course stuffe as we could find a long gowne of a course and rough frize Our swords daggers and European garments we left in our chests with a Flemmish Merchant lying at Venice to be kept against our returne and howsoeuer he falling banckerout left the City before that time yet our goods were by the publike Officer laid apart and readily deliuered to vs at our returne Whereas we left our swords at Venice know that no Turkes and much lesse Christians carry any Armes except when they goe some iourney and that we were not ignorant that howsoeuer Christians may defend themselues from theeues by the high way yet it was hard to distinguish betweene the Turkes violent extortions with the iniuries of them and the Ianizares by the high waies and flatrobberies by theeues and that whosoeuer should draw a sword or a knife against these men or any Turke scoffing and defpising him should be sure to die an ill death by publike Iustice which notwithstanding I know not how any man carrying Armes could haue the patience to endure Therefore since the Turkes iournying in great troopes were sufficiently armed against theeues and in all euents are vnfaithfull fellow souldiers to a Christian ioining with them excepting the Ianizares who how soeuer they make a shew of feare of theeues that they may seeme better to deserue their wages yet haue seldome or neuer beene assaulted by them For these and other reasons wee left our swords at Venite which reasons it would be tedious to vrge and chose rather vnarmed then armed to suffer iniuries which there cannot be auoided My selfe and my brother Henry who died this yeere in the moneth of Iuly spent foure hundred and eighty pounds sterling in this iourney from England to Ierusalem and thence to Haleppo and in my particular iourney after his death to Constantinople
store of Dolphins did againe swimme about our ship which they say doe foretell that the winde will blow from that quarter whether they swimme and the same daie in the maine Sea greater Dolphins and in greater number did play about our ship On Thurseday in the morning we did leaue on the South side the Iland Zante subiect to the Venetians and seuentie miles distant from Cephalania the description of which Iland I deferre to my returne this way and so we sailed close by the shoare of Peloponesus or Morea on the North side Peloponesus is almost an Iland ioyned on the North side to Achaia by a narrow neck of land which many of old haue attempted to cut and to make that Prouince an Iland and it containeth large Counties or Territories of Greece Wee sayling along the South side of this Prouince did see the Cities Coron Modon and Nauarin and somewhat lower towards the South was a little Iland called Striualli which is barren and inhabited by Grecian Monks called Caloiri who came out to vs in a boat to begge almes and the Patron of our ship in honour of our Lady or Virgin Marie of Striualli saluted the Iland with some pieces of Ordinance Vpon Friday the tenth of May we sailed by the foresaid City Modon seated in Greece and one hundred miles distant from the Iland Zante The eleuenth day in the morning we sailed by the Promontory called the Cape of Modon and within sixe howers sailing were out of the sight of any part of Morea But in the euening we came to the Cape of S. Iohn the first Promontory of the Iland Candia distant some one hundred and fifty miles I alwaies vnderstand Italian miles being now amongst the Italians from Modon the foresaid Citie of Morea and these high Mountaines of Candia were yet couered on the top with snow We sayled on the South side of Candia and towards euening passed by the middle part of the Iland and the thirteenth day by nine of the clock in the morning wee sailed by the Cape of Salomon being towards the East the furthest part of Candia the description of which Iland I deferre to my comming backe that way At this time our Marriners aswell Greekes as Italians were greatly offended with one of our French Consorts a Lay man because at dinner time according to the negligent fashion of the French he turned the cleane side of his trencher vpward for of all men the Marriners and of all Marriners the Greekes and Italians are most superstitious and if any thing in the ship chance to be turned vp-side downe they take it for an ill signe as if the ship should be ouerwhelmed Otherwise I neuer obserued that either the chiefe or inferiour Mariners euer vsed the least disrespect to any passenger being rather louing and familiar to them in conuersation And I remember that my brother Henry vsing to walke vpon the highest hatches the Patron and Scriuano and others did with smiling obserue his fast walking and melancholy humour yet howsoeuer it was troublesome to them did onely once and that curteously reproue him or rather desire him that he would haue respect to the Mariners who watched al night for the publike safety and were then sleeping vnder the hatches Alwaies vnderstand that a man may not bee so bold in another mans house as in his owne and may yet lesse be bold in a ship of strangers and that an vnknowne passenger must of all other be most respectiue And whereas Mariners are held by some to be theeuish surely in the Hauen at the iournies end where theeues easily find receiuers it is good to be wary in keeping that belongs to you but at sea no place is more safe then a shippe where the things stolne are easily found and the offenders seuerely punished On Sunday the nineteenth of May we came to the first Promontory of the Iland Cyprus towards the West and after eight houres sayling we came to the old City Paphos or Paphia now called Baffo and the wind failing vs and gently breathing vpon this Castle of Venus we houered here all the next night gaining little or nothing on our way This place is most pleasant with fruitfull hils and was of old consecrated to the Goddesse Venus Queene of this Iland and they say that Adamants are found here which skilfull Iewellers repute almost as precious as the Orientall A mile from this place is the Caue wherein they faigne the seuen sleepers to haue slept I know not how many hundred yeeres The twenty one of May towards the euening we entred the Port of Cyprus called Le Saline the two twentith day obtaining licence of the Turkish Cady to goe on land we lodged in the Village Larnica within a Monastery of European Friars Here some of vs being to saile to Ioppa and thence to goe by land to Ierusalem did leaue the Venetian ship which sailed forward to Scanderona The Turkes did conquer the Iland Ciprus from the Venetians in the yeere 1570 and to this day possesse it the chiefe Cities whereof are Nicosia seated in the middest of the Iland and Famogosta seated in the furthest part of the Iland towards the East The Turkish Basha or Gouernour vseth to chuse Famogosta for his seate though Nicosia be the fairer City because it hath a good Hauen and a most strong Fort which the Venetians built The Iland lieth two hundred forty miles in length from the west to the East and hath some eighty miles in bredth six hundred miles in compasse This Iland is said to be distant some foure hundred miles from the Iland of Candia which is some two hundred and thirty miles long but I speake of the next Promontories in both of them and from Venice some two thousand two hundred and twenty miles from Alexandria in AEgypt some foure hundred and fifty miles from Alexandretta at this day called Scanderona the Hauen of Caramania eighty miles from Tripoli of Syria ninety miles and from Ioppa a Hauen in Palestina about two hundred and fifty miles speaking of the vttermost Promontories on all sides This Iland yeeldeth to no place in fruitfulnesse or pleasure being inriched with Corne Oile Cheese most sweet Porkes Sheepe hauing tailes that weigh more then twenty pound Capers growing vpon pricking bushes Pomegranats Oranges and like fruites Canes or Reedes of sugar which they beat in mils drawing out a water which they seeth to make sugar with rich wines but gnawing or burning the stomacke odoriferous Cipres trees whereof they make siers store of Cotton and many other blessings of nature Neere the Promontory Del'Gatto so called of Cats that vse to kill Serpents they take Falcons which Hawkes the Gouernours are commanded to send to Constantinople They sowe corne in the moneth of October and reape it in Aprill I know not how it comes to passe that in this Iland of Venus all fruites taste of salt which Venus loued well And I thought that this
vitae which they call Harach and drinke as largely as Wine for ten meidines foure pounds of wine for one zechine Bisket for the Turkes haue no other bread but cakes baked on the harth for thirty meidines which things we prouided for our Supper and to carry with vs by the way yet might we haue bought and did buy most things by the way excepting Wine and Bread which are hardly found and must be carried by those that will haue them The guide of our Carauan was detained here by his businesse most part of the next day being Wednesday and in the meane time it fortunately happened that a Turkish Basha returning with his traine from his Gouernement and being to goe our way rested here so as his company freed vs the rest of our iourney from feare of theeues Vpon Wednesday in the afternoone we setforward in the company of this Basha and iournied all night in this Plaine wherein there was not the shadow of one tree and at eight of the clock the next morning we did sit downe in the open field resting vnder the ruines of old walles Here the Ianizaries of the Basha inquired curiously after the condition of me and my brother so as our Muccaro aduised vs to giue them halfe a piastro which they receiuing promised to defend vs from all iniury but in the meane time they did so swallow our wine as when it was spent we were forced to drinke water to which we were not vsed Vpon Thursday at three of the clock in the afternoone we set forward and about midnight we came to the Citie Marrha where our Muccaro and diuers others payed each of them ten meidines for cafar or tribute and at the Citie Gate a man was hanged in chaines also the next day we did see another impalled that is sitting and rotting vpon a stake fastned in the ground and thrust into his fundament and bowels Vpon Friday before day wee set forward and passing a stony barren way but full of Walnut trees vpon which many birds did sit and sing wee came in foure houers space to an Hospitall which they call Caon and it was stately built of stone in a round forme with arches round about the Court-yard vnder which arches each seuerall company chose their place to eate and rest both which they must doe vpon the ground except they bring Tables and beds with them Neither were any victuals there to be sold or dressed but euery man bought his victuals in the Village adioyning and dressed it after his manner The same Friday at foure in the afternoone wee went forward and riding all night did vpon Saturday early in the morning sleepe an hower in the open field while meate was giuen to our beasts Then going forward we came by Noone the same day being the nine and twentie of Iune after the Popes new stile which I haue followed hitherto being in company of Italians and Friers to the famous Citie of Haleppo where the English Merchants liuing in three houses as it were in Colledges entertained my brother and mee very 〈◊〉 And George Dorington the Consul of the English there led vs to the house wherein he liued with other Merchants and there most courteously entertained vs with plentifull diet good lodging and most friendly conuersation refusing to take any money for this our entertainement And howsoeuer wee brought him onely a bill of exchange for one hundred Crownes yet when we complained to him that we now perceiued the same would not serue our turnes hee freely lent vs as much more vpon our owne credit Yea when after my brothers death my selfe fell dangerously sicke and was forced to goe from those parts before I could recouer my health so as all men doubted of my returne into England yet he lent me a farre greater summe vpon my bare word which howsoeuer I duly repayed after my comming into England yet I confesse that I cannot sufficiently acknowledge his loue to mee and his noble consideration of poore and afflicted strangers The Citie Haleppo is said to haue the name of Halep which signifies milke because the Prouince is most fruitfull or of the word Aleph as the chiefe Citie of Syria and to haue been called of old Aram Sohab mentioned the second of Samuel the eight Chapter and third verse or at least to be built not farre from the ruines thereof The Trafficke in this place is exceeding great so as the goods of all Asia and the Easterne Ilands are brought hither or to Cayro in Egypt And before the Portugals found the way into East India these commodities were all brought from these two Cities And the Venetians and some free Cities of Italy solly enioyed all this trafficke of old But after that time the Portugals trading in East India serued all Europe with these commodities selling them yea and many adulterate Druggs at what price they listed cutting off most part of this trafficke from the Italians At last the French King making league with the great Turke the Merchants of Marsiles were made partners of this trafficke and in our age the English vnder the Raigne of Queene Elizabeth obtained like priuiledge though great opposition was made against them by the Venetians French Merchants And the Turkey company in London was at this time the richest of all other silently enioying the safety and profit of this trafficke vnderstand that when I wrote this the trafficke into the East Indies was nothing at all or very little knowne to the English or Flemmings This City lies within Land the Port whereof called Alexandretta by the Christians and Scanderona by the Turkes I shall hereafter describe The building of this City as of all houses in Syria is like to that of Ierusalem but one roofe high with a plaine top plaistered to walke vpon and with Arches before the houses vnder which they walke dry and keepe shops of wares The City is nothing lesse then well fortified but most pleasantly seated hauing many sweet gardens The aire was so hot as me thought I supped hot broth when I drew it in but it is very subtile so as the Christians comming hither from Scanderona a most vnhealthfull place hauing the aire choaked with Fens continually fall sicke and often die And this is the cause that the English Factors imployed here seldome returne into England the twentieth man scarcely liuing till his prentiship being out he may trade here for himselfe The Christians here and the Turkes at the Christians cost drinke excellent wines where of the white wines grow in that territory but the red wines are brought from Mount Libanus Moreouer all things for diet are sold at cheape rates and indeed the Turkes want not good meat but only good Cookes to dresse it The English Merchants can beare me witnes that these parts yeeld sheepe whereof the taile of one wreathed to the ground doth weigh some thirty or more pounds in fat and wooll In one of the City gates they shew the Sepulcher
Barber-Surgean of a ship yet could I neuer doubt of recouering my health but my minde still presaged that I should returne home Yet when diuers times I began to 〈◊〉 and presently by the heate of the clime and ill aire of the place had been cast downe againe I resolued to follow their counsell who perswaded me to trie if the aire of the sea would strengthen me Therefore my deare friend Master George Dorington hauing sent me one hundred zechines for my expences the great summes of money which I had being all spent by the accidents of my brothers death and my sicknesse the particulars of which expence I omit because in this griefe and weakenesse I had no minde to note them onely for a taste remembring that I paid a piastro each day to a poore man who continually cooled my heate with a fan Master Dorington I say hauing sent me money and I hauing prouided all necessaries for my iourney at last vpon Thursday the tenth of October after the new stile and in the yeere 1596 I was carried aboard a French Ship of Marsiles partly by the helpe of Porters partly in a boate being so weake as I could not stand This ship was called Iohn Baptist and the Christian name of the Master was Simon with whom I had couenanted that I paying him thirtie piastri or duckets for my selfe and my seruant he should set vs on land in some good Hauen of the Iland Candia and if it were possible in the chiefe Citie thereof called Candia and lying on the North side of the Iland whence I was now resolued to take my iourney to Constantinople leauing all thought of going by land Vpon Friday the eleuenth of October we sayled prosperously but after the windes grew so contrary as we were driuen to the South of Candia Therefore the French Marriners murmuring against vs as hereticks causing their ill passage and there being no hope left with those windes to set vs on land at Candia the chiefe Citie the Master of our ship sent vs in his boat with some few Marriners which hee least esteemed that we might sayle to land being fiftie miles distant Thus vpon Thursday the three and twentieth of October hauing sayled eight howers in great danger towards the euening we landed vnder a Promontory of Candia where there was neither citie village house nor cottage so as plenty of raine falling that night yet we were forced to lie in an open boat where my companion or seruant not knowing our danger slept soundly but my selfe durst neuer close mine eyes fearing lest these Marriners being Marsilians who at that time little loued the English should offer vs violence to gaine our goods This consort or seruant of mine was an English man and by profession a Cooke and was come into these parts to serue Master Sandy who being sent from London to be the English Consull at Haleppo as he passed from Constantinople thither died in Asia Minor of the same disease whereof my brother died and in the same moneth This seruant being after his Masters death to returne into England I tooke to attend mee that I might by his company auoide solitude and mittigate some part of my sorrow He was no sooner entered into the French ship but he presently fell sicke and not able to serue himselfe could not giue me the expected comforts much lesse doe me any seruice but greatly increased my charge spending all vpon my purse much troubled me hauing not himselfe the least skil in any forraine language so as he recouering not till we came to Venice where being among Christians I had small vse of his helpe hee was rather a burthen then a comfort to me When I was to enter the French ship I laid in prouisions of Hennes Egges Damaske Prunes and other things but my languishing stomack not desiring not being able to digest any other then salt meate these prouisions fell to the share of my sicke seruant and my self being nothing but skin and bone as one that languished in a Consumption my bloud and humours renued with these salt meates could not but weaken my future health so as I hauing been alwaies very leane after by decay of naturall heate became very fat and hauing lost the retentiue faculty of my stomack so as I continually cast all that lay vpon it so soone as in the morning I came into the aire I had no remedie against this weakenesse but the taking of Tobacco The French Marriners who brought vs to the shoare of Candia parted from vs on Friday the twenty fiue of Iuly after the new stile early in the morning and when I had well rewarded them for their paines then first they shewed me aboue the wilde Rockes called Calisminiones a Monastery of the Greeks some three miles distant and called Santa Maria Ogidietra We being left alone and staying there fasting till noone at last espied and called to vs two men passing by vpon the Mountaines but they thinking vs to bee Pirats fled away as fast as they could Presently behold my man comming out of the Wood and bringing with him an Asse which hee had found there who perswaded me to lay my baggage on that beast and so to walke softly towards the Monastery I willingly tried my strength and leaning vpon our two swords for want of a staffe and yet often falling went forward like a snaile till despairing of going further I fell vpon the ground After an howers space a Shepheard passing by and I shewing him gold and naming Monastery which word he vnderstood he swiftly ran to the Monastery and telling the Monkes called by the Greekes Caloiri our state and condition they presently sent a seruant to vs who in the Italian tongue telling vs the great danger wherein we should be if we staied vpon those Mountaines till night aduised vs to make haste to the Monastery Thus driuen with feare and incouraged by his company I tried againe to goe forward and with great trouble passed one mile ouer the Mountaines For leaning as I said on two swords and vpon the passage of any steepe Mountaine by reason of the lightnesse of my head creeping vpon hands and feete with great difficulty I went so farre And now being not able to goe any further no not to saue my life behold a boy who came to water his Assears Fountaine adioyning to whom the seruant of the Monkes gaue a piastro and so whether he would or no tooke his Asse and set me vpon it and so at last wee passed the other two miles longer then three English miles and came to the Monastery The Caloiri or Monkes receiued vs curteously and gaue vs such victuals as they had namely Pomegranates Oliues Bread and sharpe Wine which were no good meates for sicke men hauing fasted almost two dayes Also they conferred louingly with vs but still desiring vs to keepe aloofe from them At bed time they gaue vs a straw mat to lay vpon a plastred floare for
we found the Venetian ship are in the description of Constantinople noted with the letters W and X and they are now commonly called the Castles of Gallipolis but of old that noted with the letter W was called Sestos being a Citie in Thrace in which the most faire Hero was borne and dwelt and the other noted with the letter X was called Abydos being a Citie of Asia the lesse in which Leander dwelt famous for his loue to Hero and these Castles are diuided by the Hellespont some two miles broad at least so narrow as Leander is said often to haue swomme ouer it to his beloued Hero The Castle of Sestos more specially is seated in a most fertile soyle for Nairo the next adioyning towne yeeldes excellent Wines and all necessaries to sustaine life plentifully Howsoeuer the ships ought and vse to bee staied here for three daies yet a very faire winde blowing and all duties being performed the Patrons of the ships by a large gift to the Officers sometimes obtaine leaue to depart sooner They say that each passenger by Pole payeth here one zechine for tribute but perhaps this belongs onely to Merchants for my selfe my seruant and the English Gentleman in my company hauing giuen betweene vs one zechine to the substitutes of the Venetian Bailiffe so their Ambassador is called we were dismissed vpon their motion yet we moreouer gaue fortie aspers to a Ianizare and fiftie aspers to a Chiauslar for the fees of their offices It being vnwholsome to sleep aboue the hatches of the ship at this time of the yeere though in summer time I made choice to sleepe so when I sailed from Venice to Ierusalem we three namely my selfe the English Gentleman and my seruant gaue for each of vs three zechines to the Pilot to be partners with him in his cabin which by his Office hee had proper to himselfe in the Castle of the ship and to the Patron or Master of the ship for our diet we paid each of vs after the rate of fiue zechines and a halfe by the moneth as well at Sea as in Harbors and for our passage we ioyntly paid ten ducats of Venice so as I still paid two parts of three in all expences besides that wee brought with vs some hundreds of Egges and a vessell of excellent Wine of Palormo which our Ambassadour at Constantinople gaue vs. Vpon Monday the seuenth of March after the old stile vsed in Turky by all Christians and others in the afternoone we set sayle and passed the straight of Hellespont and the same night sayled by the foresaid Iland of Tenedos This Sea is called Pontus of the adiacent Prouince of Asia the lesse named Pontus which Prouince containes Colchis famous by the old Argonauticall expedition Capidocia and Armenia The eight of March early in the morning we did see tha Iland Lemnos famous for a kind of earth there digged and in Latin called Terra Sigillata vpon our right hand and the Ilands Metelene and Chios now called Zio and the Citie Smyrna vpon the continent of Asia the lesse vpon our left hand to omit Ephesus not farre distant vpon the same continent And being now entred into the AEgean Sea now called Archipelagus of fiftie Ilands standing like Arches and not farre distant one from the other which are called Cyclades or Sporades the ninth of March hauing now sailed eightie miles and being to sayle by the Iland Saint George of Skyra the windes were so contrary as wee were forced to strike sayles and lie at hull that is tossed to an fro by the waues The same day we set sayle and left the Iland Andros one of the Cyclades and the Iland Tyno subiect to the Venetians on our left hand or towards the East and the Iland Negropont lying close to the continent of Attica and right ouer against the ruines of famous Athens on our right hand or towards the West The tenth and eleuenth of March wee sayled 100 miles in the same Sea full of Ilands and sailed by the Ilands Gia and Makarone But towards night contrary windes rising high and we fearing to bee cast vpon some shoare of many adiacent Ilands againe we struck sayle and lay at hull tossing to and fro but making small or no progresse The twelfth of March early in the morning we set sayle and sayled by the Iland Milo of old called Miletum where Saint Paul landed Acts 20. 15 and a neere Iland Sdiles of old called Delos and most famous for the Oracle of Apollo and the Promontory of Morea of old called Peloponesus containing many Prouinces of Greece which promontory is called Capo Malleo The thirteenth of March hauing sayled one hundred and ninety miles we passed by the Iland Cerigo not subiect to the Turkes as most of the Ilands are but to the Venetians who in a Castle on the South side keepe a Garrison of souldiers It is one of the Cyclades seated at the entrance of the Archipelagus towards the South scarce fiue miles distant from Morea the foresaid continent of Greece and some one hundred and fiftie miles from Candia the chiefe Citie of the Iland Candia and was of old called Scotera also Porphoris of that precious kind of Marble there digged and also Citherea of which as her chiefe seate Venus is often so called And to this day there are seene the ruines of a Temple dedicated to Venus and of a Pallace belonging to Menelaus the husband of Helena From the thirteenth to the seuenteenth of March the windes were so contrary or scant as wee onely sayled one hundred and twenty miles and tooke harbour in the Iland Zante subiect to the Venetians whereof I made mention in my voyage from Venice to Ierusalem Here some English Merchants continually reside and the Hauen being commodious and most ships that trade in these Seaes vsing to put into this Harbor the goods that are diuersly transported thence are vulgarly but falsely esteemed the natiue commodities of the Iland It hath scarce sixtie miles in circuit and the Mountaines round about vpon the Sea-side inclose a pleasant and fruitfull Plaine The Hauen is like an halfe Moone increasing and the chiefe Towne called Zante lies in a little Plaine vpon the innermost part thereof in length The buildings of the houses are two stories high with a tyled but low roofe without any windowes according to the building of Italy but are poore and base for the matter so as the onely beautie of the Towne lies in the Castle built at the East end vpon a high Hill being of a large circuit and containing many houses and Churches within the walles thereof In which Castle the Gouernour called il Podestà and the other Venetian inferiour Magistrates dwell and giue Law to the people of that Iland The Turkish Pirats of Saint Mauro in Morea hauing lately set vpon and taken a huge Venetian ship did lade seuenteene of their little barques with the most pretious goods
among Christians and if he doe yet the sheetes are made of cotten intollerable for heate For in Turkey generally they lie vpon Tapestry Carpets and sometimes in Cities vpon a mattresse with a quilt to couer them and by the high way they lye vpon straw hey or grasse And in all places neere Palestine they either by night lie vpon the house tops on a plastered floare or in yards vpon the earth and in open Ayre hauing the spangled Heauens for their Canopy And not onely passengers but all Turkes daily weare linnen breeches so as in these Prouinces not subiect to cold a man may better endure this poore kind of lodging But the Turkish passengers in stead of Innes haue certsine Hospitals built of stone with Cloysters after the manner of Monasteries where by charitable legacy of Almes all passengers may haue meate for certaine meales or dayes especially the Pilgrims towards Mecha for whose sake they were especially founded And these houses are vulgarly called Kawne or as others pronounce Cain and the couered Cloysters of them built after their manner but one roofe high are common as well to Turkes as any other passengers to lodge in openly and like good fellowes altogether vpon such mattresses as they carry or vpon the bare ground if straw be not to be had For Christian passengers carry such mattresses and necessary victuals which failing they supply them in Cities and euery day in Villages may buy fresh meates but they must dresse their owne meate Neither is the Art of Cookery greater in Turkey then with vs in Wales for toasting of Cheese in Wales and seething of Rice in Turkey will enable a man freely to professe the Art of Cookery No stranger vseth to trauell without a Ianizary or some other to guide him who knowes the places where most commodious lodging is to be had but passengers by the way vse not to goe into Cities but onely to buy fresh meates which done they returne to the Tents of their Carrauan which vse to be pitched in some field adioyning In hot climes neere the Sunne as I haue said in the first Part writing my iourney through Turkey the Turkes there dwelling vse to beginne their iourneys towards the euening and to end them two or three houres after the Sunne rising resting in their Tents all the heat of the day Christian passengers shall doe well to goe to the Italians Friers at Ierusalem and to Merchants their Countreymen or at least to Christians in Citties of traffick and to the Ambassadors or Merchants of their owne Country at Constantinople who being themselues strangers and not ignorant of the euils incident to strangers will no doubt in curtesie direct them to get conuenient lodgings and other necessaries CHAP. II. Of France touching the particular subiects of the first Chapter THE Longitude of France extends thirteene degrees from the Meridian of sixteene degrees to that of twenty nine degrees and the Latitude extends eight degrees from the Paralell of forty two degrees to that of fifty degrees France of old was deuided into Cisalpina and Transalpina In the description of Italy I haue formerly spoken of Cisalpina which was also called Togata of Gownes the Inhabitants wore and Tonsa because they had short haire 1 Transalpina was subdeuided into Comata and Narbonersis Comata so called of their long haire was againe subdeuided into Belgica of which I haue spoken formerly in the description of Netherland into Aquitanica and Celtica or Lugdunensis Aquitanica the second Part of Comata was of old called Aremorica lying vpon the Mountaines Pyrenei and they differ in Language from the French being more like to tie Spaniards next to the Pyreni dwelt the Ansi or Ansitani called vulgarly Guascons comming from Spaine Their chief City is Tolouse where is a famous Vniuersity the Parliament of that Prouince Another City called Bordeaux hath also an Vniuersity but is more famous by the generall concourse of Merchants trading for French Wines Beyond the Riuer Garumna running through the midst of Aquitania dwell the Santones an ancient people whose Countrey is called Santoigne Next lie the Pictones or Pictaui vpon the Riuer Loyer whose Countrey is called Posctou abounding with Fish Fowle and all Game for Hunting and Hawking It hath three chiefe Cities all seates of Bishops Poictiers Lusson and Maillezais The necke of Land adioyning is called Aulone and the Ilands Noir de Chauet De Dieu and Nosire Dame De Bouin c. yeeld great quantity of Salt to be transported The Countrey of the Bituriger is called Berry and the chiefe City Burges of old called Auaricum being an Vniuersity and the Citizens at sixe Faires in the yeere sell great quantity of woollen cloath for the Countrey hath rich pastures feeding many flockes of sheepe of whose wooll this cloath is made besides that it aboundeth also with Wine Corne and all kinds of cattell The City is within Land and is called in Lattin Biturigum of two Towers Next the same lies the Dukedome Burbonois and other small territories Celtica or Lugdunensis another part of Comata containes the part of Transalpina that lies betweene the Riuers Loyer and Seyne beyond which last Riuer France of old extended and included good part of Netherland First towards the West lies the Dukedome Bretaigne which hath three Languages in it selfe all differing from the French The first is of the people called Bretons Bretonnant comming from the English or Cornish Brittons the first Inhabitants and the chiefe Cities are Saint Paul and Treguiers The second people are called Bretons Galot being of Language neere the French and the chiefe Cities are Rhenes where is the Parliament of the whole Dukedome and Dol and Saint Malo The third is mixt of the two former and the City thereof called Nantes is the Dukes seate and chiefe City of the Dukedome From the Sea Coast thereof great quantity of salt made by the heate of the Sunne is transported and there by mynes of Iron and Lead Towards the East lies Normandy so called of Men of the North namely the Cimbri there inhabiting and the chiefe City is Roane Within Land lies Turroyne vpon the Loyer and the chiefe City is Orleance Next lies the little Countrey of France like an Iland betweene two Riuers so called of the Franckes a people of Germany conquering and giuing that name to the whole Kingdome The chiefe City and seate of the Kings is Paris Picardy lies towards the North and the chiefe City is Amiens Vpon France within Land towards the East lies the Prouince Champaigne Next to it lies the Dukedome of Lorrayne the Dukes whereof beare their Armes an Arme armed breaking out of Cloudes and holding a naked Sword to signifie that the Dukes haue supreme power from God alone And the chiefe Cities of the Dukedome are Nancy the seate of the Dukes and Toul and Neufchastell The next Countrey of old esteemed part of Lorrayne was inhabited by the Lingones and by the Mediomatrices and
is the Territory called Lennox whereof the Stewards haue long time been Earles of which Family the late Kings of Scotland are discended and namely Iames the sixth who raised this Earledom to a Dukedome giuing that title to the Lord d'Aubigny and these Daubignij seruing in the French and Neapolitane warres were honoured by the Kings of France with addition of Buckles Or in a field Gueules to their ancient coate of Armes with this inscription Distantia Iungo that is Distant things I ioyne Sterling or Striuelin lyes not farre off a little Citie of the Kings hauing a most strong Castle vpon the brow of a steepe rocke 8 Next these towards the North lay the Caledonij somewhat more barbarous then the rest as commonly they are more rude towards the North where not onely the aire is cold but the Country wast and mountanous And here was the Caledonian Wood so knowne to the Roman Writers as it was by them taken for all Britany and the Woods thereof At this day this Region is called by the Scots Allibawne and by the Latines Albania and containes the Bishoprick Dunkeledon and the Territory Argile so called as neere the Irish of which the Cambellan Family hath the title of Earles of Argile who are the generall Iustices of Scotland by right of inheritance and Great Masters of the Kings Houshold 9 Towards the West lay the Epidij inhabiting a wast and Fenny Country now called Cantire that is a corner of land and next lies Assinshire 10 Next lay the Creones which Region is now called Strathuaern 11 Next lay the Cornouacae at the Promontory Hey 12 On the East-side of the Caledonians lay the Vernicones in the fruitfull little Region called Fife where is the Towne of Saint Andrew Metropolitan of all Scotland 13 The little Region Athol is fertile of which the Stuards of the Family of Lorne haue the title of Earles Here is Strathbolgy the seate of the Earles of Huntly of the Family of the Seatons who tooke the name of Gordan by the authority of a Parliament 14 Next lyes Goury hauing fruitfull fields of Wheate whereof Iohn Lord Rethuen was of late made Earle but Arrell in this Region hath long giuen the title of Earle to the Family of Hayes 15 vnder Fife lyes Angush where is Scone famous for the Kings consecration Montrose hath his Earles of the Family of the Grahames but the Douglasses Earles of Angush of an honorable Eamily were made Gouernours by Robert the third of this Region and these Earles are esteemed the chiefe and principall Earles of all Scotland and it is said that they haue right to carry the Kings Crowne at the solemne assemblies of the Kingdome 16. 17 Next lye the two Regions of Marnia and Marria vpon the sea where is Dunetyre the chiefe seate of the Family of the Keythes who by warlike vertue haue deserued to be the Marshalls of the Kingdome and Aberdene that is the mouth of the Dene is a famous Vniuersity And Queene Mary created Iohn Ereskin Earle of Marre who lately was the Regent of Scotland and is by inheritance Sheriffe of the County of Sterling 18 Next lay the Taizeli where now Buquhan is seated 19 Then towards Murrey Frith the V ocomagi of old inhabited Rosse murray and Nesseland 20 More innerly is the Gulfe Vararis right ouer against the Towne Inuernesse 21 The Cantae possessed the corner of land shooting towards the Sea where is the most safe Hauen Cromer 22. 23 Yet more inwardly where Bean Rosse and Southerland are seated the Lugi and Mertae of old inhabited Thus farre Edward the first King of England subdued all with his victorious Army hauing beaten the Scots on all sides In Southerland are Mountaines of white Marble a very miracle in this cold clyme but of no vse the excesse and magnificence in building hauing not yet reached into these remote parts 24 Further neare Catnesse the Catni of old inhabited the Earles of which Country are of the ancient and Noble Families of the Sint-cleres 25 Vrdehead is thought the remotest Promontory of all Britany where the Cornabij of old inhabited 26 I will in one word mention the Ilands In the Gulfe Glotta or Dunbritten Frith lyes the Iland Glotta called Arran by the Scots giuing the title to an Earle Next that lyes Rothesia now called Buthe whence are the Stewards Kings of Scots as they say Then Hellan the Iland of the Sayntes Without the foresaid Gulfe many Ilands lye thicke together vulgarly called the Westerne Ilands and numbred forty foure being of old called by some Hebrides by others Inchades and Leucades and by many as Ptolomy Ebudae Ina one of these Ilands haue a Monastery famous for the buriall of the Kings of Scotland and for the habitation of many holy men among which was Columbus the Apostle of the Picts of whose Cell the Iland was also named Columbkill The Scots bought all these Ilands of the Norwegians as a great strength to the Kingdome though yeelding very little profit the old inhabitants whether Scots or Irish being of desperare daring and impatient of being subiect to any lawes Neare these lye the Orcades vulgarly Orkney about thirty in number yeelding competent quantity of Barley but no Wheate or trees The chiese whereof is Pomonia well knowne by the Episcopall seate and yeelding both Tynne and Leade These Orcades Ilands were subiect to the Danes and the inhabitants speake the Gothes language but Christiern King of the Danes sold his right to the King of Scotland Fiue dayes and nights sayle from the Orcades is the Iland Thule so often mentioned by Poets to expresse the furthest corner of the World whereupon Virgill saith Tibi seruiet vltima Thule that is The furthest Thule shall thee serue Many haue thought that Iseland was this Thule condemned to cold ayre and perpetuall Winter but Camden thinkes rather that Schotland is Thule which the Marriners now call Thilensall being subiect to the King of Scotland In the German Sea towards the coast of Britany are few Ilands saue onely in Edenburg Frith where these are found May Basse Keth and Inche-colme that is the Iland of Columbus Scotland reaching so farre into the North must needs be subiect to excessiue cold yet the same is in some sort mitigated by the thicknesse of the cloudy aire and sea vapours And as in the Northerne parts of England they haue small pleasantnes goodnesse or abundance of Fruites and Flowers so in Scotland they haue much lesse or none at all And I remember that comming to Barwick in the moneth of May wee had great stormes and felt great cold when for two moneths before the pleasant Spring had smiled on vs at London On the West side of Scotland are many Woodes Mountaines and Lakes On the East side towards the Sea I passed Fife a pleasant little Territory of open fields without inclosures fruitfull in Corne as bee all the partes neare Barwick saue that they yeeld little wheate and much
six Quatrines a Soldo and two Deniers of Genoa a Quatrine 114 Soldi of Milan make a siluer Crowne 20 Soldi a Lire and a Lire and a halfe makes one Lire of Genoa For Turkey The siluer Crowne or Piastro worth fiue shillings English is giuen heere for 70 there for 80 or more Aspers A Meidine of Tripoli is an Asper and an halfe a Meidine of Caiero three Aspers and an Asper some three farthings English For France Twelue Deniers make a Soulz fourteene Soulz and a halfe a Testoone fifteene Soulz a Quart d'escue twenty Soulz a Franke sixtie Soulz a French Crowne or six shillings English AN ITINERARY VVRITTEN By FYNES MORYSON Gent. First in the Latine Tongue AND THEN TRANSLATED By him into ENGLISH AN ITINERARY WRITTEN BY FYNES MORYSON Gent. CONTAINING His ten yeeres trauels thorovv TWELUE DOMINIONS The First Part. The First BOOKE CHAP. I. Of my iourny from London in England to Stode Hamburg Lubeck Luneburg my returne to Hamburg and iourney to Magdeburg Leipzig Witteberg and the neighbouring Cities in Germany BEing a Student of Peter-house in Cambridge and entred the eighteenth yeere of my age I tooke the degree of Bachelar of Arts and shortly after was chosen Fellow of the said Colledge by Queene Elizabeths Mandat Three yeers expired from my first degree taken in the Vniuerfitie I commenced Master of Arts and within a yeere after by the fauour of the Master and Fellowes I was chosen to a vacant place of Priuiledge to studie the Ciuill Lawes Then as well for the ornament of this profession as out of my innated desire to gaine experience by trauelling into forraigne parts to which course my Parents had giuen consent some few yeers past vpon my first declaring of my inclination to the said profession vpon the priuiledge of our Statutes permitting two of the Society to trauell I obtained licence to that purpose of the said Master and Fellowes in the yeere 1589 being then full 23 yeeres old And presently leauing the Vniuersiy I went to London there to follow some studies fit to inable me in this course and there better taught and these studies the visiting of my friends in the Country my going to Oxford to take the same degree I had in Cambridge and some oppositions vpon new deliberation made by my father and friends against my iourney detained me longer in those parts then I purposed At last in the beginning of the yeere 1591 and vpon the first day of May I tooke ship at Liegh distant from London twenty eight miles by land and thirtie six by water where Thames in a large bed is carried into the Sea Thence we set saile into the maine and the eight day of our sailing the Merchants Fleet of sixteene ships being dispersed by a fogge and tempest two Dunkerke Pirats followed our ship till by Gods mercy the fog being cleared after some few houres and two of our ships vpon our discharging of a great Peece drawing towards vs the Pirates despairing left to pursue vs. That they were Pirates was apparant since as wee for triall turned our sayles they likewise fitted themselues to our course so as wee though flying yet prepared our selues to fight till God thus deliuered vs. The ninth day towards night wee fell vpon an Iland called the Holy-land vulgarly Heiligland and not daring to enter the Riuer Elue before the next morning wee strucke all sayles and suffered our ship to bee tossed too and fro by the waues all that night which Marriners call lying at Hull This Iland hath onely one Port capeable of some sixe ships in the forme of the Moone decreasing and lying open to the East On the North side is a great Rocke and the rest of the shore is all of high Cliffes It is subiect to the Duke of Holste and by that title to the King of Denmarke but the inhabitants are so poore as they yeeld no other tribute then stones for the Dukes building It is in circuit some three miles and hath about one hundred Families The tenth day we entred the Riuer Elue and landed at Stode This is an ancient Citie and one of the Empires free Cities and one of those Sea-Townes which from the priuiledge of traffick with their Neighbours are called Free Cities vulgarly Hansteten but of late was become so poore as they had sold the priuiledge of coyning money and some like Rights to Hamburg till the English Merchants remouing their seate of trafficke from Hamburg to Stode it began lately to grow rich not without the enuy and impouerishment of the Hamburgers In the Dutch Inns I paid for each meale foure Lubeck shillings and an halfe and in the English Innes eight pence English In the great winding and troubled Streame of Elue which ebs and flowes as high as Luneburg certaine Booyes are laid to shew the channels and sholes of the Riuer and the maintaining of each of them cost 40 pounds yeerely and of all a thousand pounds at the least at the common charge of Stode and Hamburg but after frosts begin they are taken vp and reserued to the next Spring Of old when Stode flourished this charge belonged onely to it taking some contributions of the other Cities for the same This free Citie had then chosen the Bishop of Breme for their Protector and had but small scattered reuenewes to the value of ninety pounds sterling by the yeere but the soile is so fertile as they milke their Cowes thrice each day Of late the Hamburgers had in vaine attempted by Nauall forces to forbid the arriuall of the English at Stode whom as they had grieued hauing their seate with them as well with exactions as with forbidding them free exercise of Religion so now sometimes by laire treatie sometimes by force they laboured to draw backe vnto them Those of Stode haue by priuiledge the preemption and choice of Rhenish Wines passing by them This Citie might be made strong if the workes they haue begun were perfected The fields of the North and East sides may bee drowned and because the high Hilles towards the West and South though somewhat distant seemed to threaten danger they had on those sides raised an high and broad wall of earth fastned on the out-side with Willowes in which place an Armory for all munitions was built but the gates of the Citie for ridiculous ostentation of strength were furnished with Artillery of stone painted ouer The territory without the City belongs on the West side to the Bishop of Breame and on the East side to the Earle of Scbeneburg and the Duke of Holst From Stode to Hamburg are fiue miles In a Waggon hired for fiue Lubecke shillings each person wee passed two miles then crossing the Elue not without danger in respect of the shallow places and present storme wee hired another Waggon for foure Lubeck shillings each person and through thicke woods passed the other three miles to Hamburg The passage by water to Hamburg had beene much easier especially for
my studies at Bazell Therefore not to bee wanting to my selfe I hyred a horse and made this cozenage knowne to the Arch-Dukes officer desiring him to exclude my debtor from the priuiledge of the Monastery But this Dutch Gentleman finding mee to speake Latine readily tooke mee for some Schoole-master and despised both mee and my cause so as I returned to the Citie weary and sad hauing obtained no fauor But a better starre shined there on mee for the Consuls that day had determined in Court that my debtors horses should bee sought out and deliuered to mee and the Lawyers and Clearkes were so courteous to me as neither they nor any other would take the least reward of mee though I pressed them to receiue it Then my debtors brother being loth the horses should be carried away paid me my mony and I gladly tooke my iourney thence towads Bazel This integrity of the Dutch Magistrates which especially in the Cities of the reformed Religion hauing found by many testimonies I cannot sufficiently commend and curtesie of the Dutch towards strangers I haue thought good in this place thankefully to acknowledge Vpon the Lake Acrontiis vulgarly Boden-sea that is vpper sea I passed by boate foure miles to Costnetz and paied for my passage three Batzen Betweene this vpper sea and the lower sea vulgarly Vnden-sea this Citie Costnetz lyeth on the banke lengthwise and is subiect to Ferdinand of Inspruch Arch-Duke of Austria whose base sonne hath also the Bishopricke of that City which is famous by a Councell held there whither Iohn Hus was called with the Emperours safe conduct in the yeere 1414 yet was there condemned of Heresie and burned On the West side of the Citie within the walles in the Monastery called Barfussen Cloyster is the Tower wherein he was imprisoned and without the walles on the left hand as you goeout is a faire meadow and therein a stone vpon the high-way to which he was bound being burnt the same yeere 1414 in the Month of Iuly Where also his fellow Ierom of Prage was burnt in September the yeere following both their ashes being cast into the Lake lest the Bohemians should carry them away The Senate-house in which this Councell was held is of no beauty When the Emperour Charles the fifth besieged this Citie it was yeelded to the hands of Ferdinand King of Bohemia and brother to Charles who made the Citizens peace for them Heere each man paid eight Batzen a meale and for wine betweene meales eight creitzers the measure Hence I went by boat two miles to Styga and paied for my passage two Batzen We tooke boat at the end of the Lake close by the City where the Rheine comming againe out of the Lake and taking his name therein lost doth runne in all narrow bed and when wee had gone by water some houre and a halfe wee entred the lower Lake called Vnden-sea Neere Costnetz is an Iland called little Meinow and in this lower lake is another Iland called Reichnow of the riches the Monastery therof hauing of old so much lands as the Monkes being sent to Rome vsed to lodge euery night in their owne possessions This Iland is said to beare nothing that hath poyson so as any such beast dieth presently in it and in the Monastery are some reliques of Saint Marke for which as they say the Venetians haue offered much money VVriters report that of old a Monke thereof climing vp a ladder to looke into a huge vessell of wine and being ouercome with the vapour fell into the same with a great bunch of keyes in his hand and that shortly after this wine was so famous as Princes and Nobles and many sickly persons vsually sent for the same the cause of the goodnes being not knowne to proceed of the putrified flesh till the vessell being empty the keyes and the Friers bones were found therein the Monkes till then thinking that their fellow had secretly gone to some other Monastery of that Order yet the Dutch in my company reported that this happened in a Monastery not farre off called Salmanschwell By the way was a stately Pallace belonging to the Fugares of Augsburg On the East-side out of the walles of Styga lye woody fields on the West-side the Iland Horue and pleasant Hils full of vines and corne In this City the Bishop of Costnetz hath his Pallace who is Lord of the two Ilands Meinow and Reichnow and hath very large possessions in these parts mingled with the territories of other Lords And this City is vpon the confines of Germany and Sweitzerland Hence I passed by boat two miles to Schaffhausen and paied for my passage two Batzen The swistnes of the Rheine made the miles seeme short and this riuer againe loseth his name in the said lower Lake and when it comes or rather violently breakes out of it then resumes it againe This City is one of the confederate Cantons of Sweitzerland Not farre from this City on the South side in the riuer Rheine is a great fall of the waters ouer a rocke some fifty cubits downeward passing with huge noyse and ending all in fome And for this cause the Barkes are forced to vnlade here and to carry their goods by carts to the City and from the City to imbarke them againe which yeeldeth great profit to the City by taxations imposed on the goods which must necessarily be landed there On both sides the riuer as we came to this City are pleasant hils planted with vines faire pastures with sweet groues The City is round in forme and is washed with the Rheine on the South side and vpon the banke of the riuer within the Towne is a pleasant greene where the Citizens meete to exercise the shooting of the Harquebuze and crosse-Bow where also is a Lynden or Teyle tree giuing so large a shade as vpon the top it hath a kinde of chamber boarded on the floore with windowes on the sides and a cocke which being turned water fals into a vessel through diuers pipes by which it is conueyed thither for washing of glasses and other vses and heere the Citizens vse to drinke and feast together there being sixe tables for that purpose On the same South side is a Monastery with walles and gates like a little City It hath the name of 〈◊〉 that is a sheepe or Schiff that is a ship and Hausse that is a house as of a fold for 〈◊〉 or roade for shippes Here I paid for each meale six batzen For the better vnderstanding of my iourney from Schafhusen to Zurech I will prefix a letter which I wrote to that purpose from Bazel To the Right Worshipfull Master Doctor Iohn Vlmer IN those few houres I staid at Schafhusen you haue made me your Seruant for euer I remember the houres of our conuersation which for the sweetnes thereof seemed minutes to me I remember the good offices you did towards me a stranger with gentlenes if not proper to your selfe yet proper
water out of England they could neuer make their beere so much esteemed as the English which indeed is much bettered by the carriage ouer sea to these parts Hence I went to Sluse so called of the damme to let waters in and out and came thither in two houres paying for my waggon thirteene stiuers which I hired alone for if I had light vpon company we should haue paied no more betweene vs. Hence I passed the Riuer Mase where it falleth into the sea and came to Brill my selfe and two others paying twelue stiuers for our passage but the barke being presently to returne and therefore not entring the Port set vs on land neere the Towne whether we walked on foot Brill is a fortified Towne laid in pledge to Queene Elizabeth for money she lent the States and it was then kept by foure English Companies paid by the Queene vnder the gouernment of the Lord Burrowes The Towne is seated in an Iland which was said to bee absolute of it selfe neither belonging to Zealand nor Holland On the North side the Riuer Mase runneth by On the East side are corne fieldes and the Riuer somewhat more distant On the South side are corne fields On the West side are corne fields and the maine Sea little distant Here I paied for my supper and dinner twenty stiuers and for a pot of wine eighteene stiuers From hence I returned by water to Roterodam in Holland and paied for my passage three stiuers In the mouth of the Riuer of Roterodam lies the City Arseldipig and another called Delphs-Ile being the Hauen of Delph which was then a pleasant Village but growing to a City and hauing beene lately burnt by fire was fairely rebuilded Roterodam lies in length from the East to the West The Hauen is on the South side being then full of great ships vpon which side it lay open without walles hauing many faire houses and a sweet walke vpon the banke of the water Neither is it fortified on the sides towards the land nor seemed to mee able to beare a siege hauing low walles on the North and East sides yet compassed with broad ditches The street Hoch-street is faire and large extending it selfe all the length of the Citie and lying so as from the gate at the one end you may see the gate at the other end and in this street is the Senate house In the market place toward the West is the statua of Erasmus being made of wood for the Spaniards brake downe that which was made of stone and the inscription thereof witnesseth that hee was borne at Roterodame the twenty eight of October in the yeere 1467 and died at Bazel the twelfth of Iuly in the yeere 1531. In New-Kirk-street there is the house in vvhich Erasmus was borne vvherein a Taylor dwelled at this time and vpon the vvall thereof these Verses are written AEdibus his natus mundum decorauit Erasmus Artibus ingenuis Religione side The world Erasmus in this poore house borne With Arts Religion Faith did much adorne The same Verses also vvere vvritten in the Flemmish tongue and vpon the vvall vvas the picture of Erasmus Vpon the same West side is the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece and Crosse-bow The vvaters of Roterodam and Delph being neere the sea are more vvholesome then the standing waters within land Heere I lodged at an English-mans house and paied for my supper tenne stiuers for my breakfast two stiuers and for beere betweene meales fiue stiuers by which expence compared vvith that of the Flemmish Innes it is apparant that strangers in their reckonings pay for the intemperate drinking of their Dutch companions From hence I went by sea three miles to Dort in two houres space to which City we might haue gone great part of the way by vvaggon as farre as Helmund but then we must needs haue crossed an Inland sea for the City is seated in an Iland hauing beene of old diuided from the continent of Holland in a great floud The forme of the City resembles a Galley the length whereof lies from the East to the West Wee landed vpon the North side lying vpon the sea where there be two gates but of no strength On the East side is the New gate Reydike and beyond a narrow water lye fenny grounds On the South side the ditch is more narrow yet the sea ebbs and flowes into it and vpon old walles of stone is a conuenient walking place On this side is the gate Spey-port and beyond the ditch lye fenny grounds On the West side is the gate Feld-port and a like walke vpon walles of stone and there is a greater ebbing and flowing of the sea There is a great Church built of bricke and couered with slate being stately built vvith Arched cloysters and there of old the Counts of Holland were consecrated From this part the two fairest streets Reydike-strat and Wein-strat lie windingly towards the North. Turning a little out of the faire street Reydike-strat towards the South lies the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece Crosse-bow and there by is a very pleasant groue vpon the trees vvhereof certaine birds frequent which we call Hearnes vulgarly called Adhearne or Regle and their feathers being of great price there is a great penalty set on them that shall hurt or annoy those birds There is a house vvhich retaines the name of the Emperor Charles the fift and another house for coyning of money for the Counts of Holland vvere vvont to coyne money at Dort as the Counts of Zealand did at Midleburg Betweene the faire streets Reydike-strat and Wein-strat is the Hauen for ships to be passed ouer by bridges and there is a market place and the Senate house vvhich hath a prospect into both these streets The houses are higher built then other where in Holland and seeme to be of greater Antiquity This Citie by priuiledge is the staple of Rhenish vvines vvhich are from hence carried to other Cities so as no imposition being here paied for the same the pot of Rhenish wine is sold for twelue stiuers for which in other places they pay eighteene or twenty stiuers For three meales I paied heere thirty stiuers From hence I vvent by water to the States Campe besieging Getrudenberg and came thither in two houres space but the vvindes being very tempestuous wee saw a boat drowned before vs out of which one man onely escaped by swimming who seemed to me most wretched in that hee ouer-liued his wife and all his children then drowned The besieged City lies in the Prouince of Brabant and the County of Buren being the inheritance of the Prince of Orange by right of his wife and in this Month of Iune it was yeelded to Count Maurice the Spanish Army lying neere but not being able to succour it The Sea lying vpon this part of Brabant was of old firme land ioined to the continent till many villages by diuers floods and seuenteene
cloth as would couer the same with a Rose-noble at the corner of each cloth Others tell a fable of like credit that it was once sold to a Merchant whom they scoffed when he came to take possession bidding him take away the earth he had bought The great reuenew exacted in this straight hath giuen occasion to these and the like fables And in truth if either the King of Suetia or the free City of Lubeck had the possession of this Iland and were fortified therein they might easily command this passage and extort what they list from the Merchants passing that way and perhaps conquer the parts adioyning but the possession thereof were altogether vnprofitable for any Prince whose Territories lie out of the Sound the entrance whereof is forbid by the two foresaid strong Castles But lest I should bee as foolish as they I returne to my purpose And first giue me leaue to mention that there lies a City not farre distant in the Kingdome of Norway which is called London as the chiefe City in England is called Vpon Sunday the twenty six of August in the yeere 1593 I tooke an English ship heere to saile into Prussen hauing first bought for my victuals halfe a lambe for twelue Danish shillings thirty egges for six shillings and some few pots of Spanish wine for forty two Danish shillings with some other small prouisions From Elsinure to Dantzk they reckon eighty English miles Assoone as wee were come out of the harbour wee saw two ships sayling two contrary wayes and yet hauing both a forewind which sometimes happens vpon the shoare as marriners know For of these two contrary winds the one is airy which holds when you are gone into the maine the other is from the earth and in short time faileth at the very shore which euent we presently saw with our eyes one of the ships going fairely on his course the other casting anchor The English ship in which I went was called the Antilope being of one hundred fifty tuns or thereabouts and one Master Bodley was the Master thereof who shewed me manifest signes where his ship in two places had beene struck with lightning the first whereof passed into the pumpe and rent it but comming to the water was by the nature thereof carried vpward and comming out at the top of the pumpe made two little holes then passing to the great Mast rent it and made a great crany therein from the hatches to the top The second struck the top of the said maine Mast and againe rent it in such wise as it would scarcely beare saile till wee might come to Dantzk where the best Mastes are sold at a good rate The first day we sayled in the Baltick sea some fiue miles with a scant winde and cast anchor neere Copenhagen With a faire winde and good gaile Marriners vsually sayle some three Dutch leagues in an houre On Monday early wee sayled along the shore three miles to Falsterboden On Tuesday early wee sayled eighteene miles to the Iland Brentholm and vpon our left hands saw the land in two places and there sounding with our plummet sand of Amber stuck thereunto The same day by noone wee sayled the length of that Iland and vpon Wednesday by three of the clocke in the morning hauing sayled thirty miles we passed by Rose-head being a Promentory 〈◊〉 Dantzk On Thurs-day by eight of the clocke in the morning hauing sayled eighteene miles we came to a Land called Rettell and entered the Port of Meluin where the water was scarce two fadome deepe our ship drawing one fadome and a halfe the entry was narrow and there were many booyes floting vpon shoales sands and the weather being calme we were drawne in by a boate with Oares In like cases ships vse to draw themselues in by the casting and weighing of Anchors with great labour and flow riddance of way From Kettell we passed ten miles and came to the Port of Meluin Iu the aforesaid entry of the Riuer on the right hand towards the West we saw Dantzke seated not farre from the sea shore where it hath a hauen but not so safe as this and towards the North-east in the same place a channell runneth vp to Konigsberg the Court of the Duke of Prussen The Port of Meluin is searce ten foot deepe but our ship passed through the mud like a plow vpon land This port is a little distant from the City on the North-side where we entered by a faire large street called Martgasse lying thence towards the South Prussen of old was subiect to the order of the Teutonicke Knights but by agreement made betweene the King of Poland and the Margraue or Marques of Brandeburg Master of the said order part of the prouince was giuen to the said Marques and his heires with title of Duke vnder homage to the King of Poland with condition that for want of heire male it should returne to the Kingdome of Poland and the other part was then vnited to the said Kingdome but Dantzke and Meluin remained free Cities acknowledging the King of Poland for their Protector for which cause they giue him many customes and permit his Officer to abide in the City ard receiue the same Meluin is a little and faire City lately compassed with new wals and at this time grew rich by the English Merchants hauing their staple in the same They giue good fare for foure grosh a meale and he that paies for two meales in the day may besides haue meat or drinke betweene meales at pleasure without paying any thing The same euening we landed at Meluin our Marriners staying in the ship entertained other English Marriners comming aboard and according to their custome giuing them a peece when they departed it happened that the peece being of iron brake and therewith cut the Cooke off by the middle and rent all the prow of the ship The English Merchants at Meluin had no Preacher though the Citizens gaue them free exercise of religion so that how so euer they excused in by reason that learned Preachers could hardly be drawne to come so farre for meanes to liue yet I thought them not free of blame in this point because our Merchants further distant in Asia and liuing vnder the Turkes Empire found meanes by their bounty to haue learned Preachers Neither indeed did I euer obserue in any other place Italy excepted that our Merchants wanted Preachers where they held their staples From Meluin I went ten miles in one day to Dantzke and we being onely two conforts paid each of vs a Doller for our Coach In the morning we went sixe miles and by the way passed the Riuer Begot comming out of the riuer Vistula where our Coachman paid three grosh to haue his Coach carried ouer a damme Beyond this riuer we entered the territory of the King of Poland and passing all this way through fruitfull come fields and rich medowes and pastures in a Countrey abounding with
Titus Liuius a famous Historian And Lucius Aruntius Stella and Caius Valerius Flaccus all Poets celebrated by Martiall and Augelus Beoleus a Stage-player of wonderfull elocution dying in the yeere 1542 and Thraseas Peto a famous Souldier hated by Nero and Andreas Mantinia the best Painter of his age being knighted and dying about the yeere 1517 and Augustinus Zoto a Painter with other famous men The Second Booke CHAP. I. Of my iourney from Paduoa to Venice to Ferraria to Bologna to Rauenna and by the shore of the Adriaticke Sea to Ancona then crossing the breadth of Italy to Rome seated not farre from the Tirrhene Sea WHosoeuer comes into Italy and from whence soeuer but more especially if he come from suspected places as Constantinople neuer free from the plague hee must bring to the Confines a certificate of his health and in time of any plague hee must bring the like to any City within land where he is to passe which certificates brought from place to place and necessary to bee carried they curiously obserue and read This paper is vulgarly called Bolletino della sanita and if any man want it hee is shut vp in the Lazareto or Pest-house forty dayes till it appeare he is healthfull and this they call vulgarly far ' la quarantans Neither will the Officers of health in any case dispence with him but there hee shall haue conueuientlodging and diet at his pleasure In the spring of the yeere 1594 the Italians beginning the yeere the first of Ianuary I began my iourney to see Italy and taking boat at the East gate of Paduoa the same was drawne by horses along the Riuer Brenta hauing shot two or three small bridges and passed twenty miles we came to the Village Lizzafusina where there is a damme to stop the waters of Brenta lest in processe of time the passage being open the Marshes on that side of Venice should be filled with sand or earth and so a passage made on firme ground to the City which they are carefull to preuent and not without iust cause hauing found safety in their Iles when Italy was often ouerflowed by barbarous people Besides they say that this damme was made lest this fresh water should bee mingled with their salt waters since all the Gentlemen of Venice fetch their fresh water by boats from thence the poorer sort being content with Well water Heere whiles our boat was drawne by an Instrument out of the Riuer Brenta into the Marshes of Venice wee the passengers refreshed our selues with meat and wine and according to the custome agreed vpon the price of our meat before wee did eat it Then we entred our boat againe and passed fiue miles to Venice vpon the marshes thereof and each man paied for his passage a lire or twenty sols and for a horse more then ordinary that we might be drawne more swiftly from Paduoa to Lizzafusina each man paied foure sols but the ordinary passage is only sixteene sols We might haue had coaches but since a boat passeth daily too and fro betweene these Cities most men vse this passage as most conuenient For the boat is couered with arched hatches and there is very pleasant company so a man beware to giue no offence for otherwise the Lumbards carry shirts of Male and being armed as if they were in a Camp are apt to reuenge vpon shamefull aduantages But commonly there is pleasant discourse and the prouerb saith that the boat shall bee drowned when it carries neither Monke nor Student nor Curtesan they loue them too well to call them whores the passengers being for the most part of these kindes I remember a yong maide in the boat crossed her selfe whensoeuer an old woman looked vpon her fearing she should be a witch whereat the passengers often smiled seeing the girle not onely crosse her selfe for feare but thrust her crucifix towards the old womans eyes I said formerly that two Riuers Medoaci runne through Paduoa and that the greater by the name of Brenta running to the village Lizzafusina is stopped with a damme lest it should mingle it selfe with the salt marshes of Venice and that also the lesser Riuer by the name of Bachilio passeth through Paduoa This lesser streame runneth thence into the ditch Clodia and going out of it makes a hauen called de Chiozza which lieth in the way from Venice to Farraria and there it diuideth it selfe into two streames and entring the salt marshes makes the hauen of Venice called Malamocco Besides other Riuers falling from the Alpes through Frioli do increase these marshes which are salt by the tides of the sea though the same doth very little ebbe or flow in this Mediterranean or Inland sea And this hauen Malamocco is very large and deep and is defended with a banke from the waues of the Adriatique sea The Description of Uenice Vpon the West side of venice beyond the marshes lies the Territory of Paduoa On the North side beyond the marshes lies the Prouince Frioli On the South side beyond the marshes lies partly the firme land of Italy and partly the Adriatique sea On the East side beyond the marshes lies the Adriatique sea and the City consisteth all of Iles compassed round about with the saide marshes A The great channell B The market place of Saint Marke seated in the first Sextary of Saint Marke C The Cathedrall Church of Saint Peter the seate of the Patriarkes seated in the second Sextary called Caestelli Oliuolo D The third Sextary on this side the channell called di Canarigio E The Church of Saint Iames lies neere the bridge Rialto and is seated in the fourth Sextary of Saint Paul being the first of them beyond the channell The rest of the City is diuided into two other Sextaries beyond the channell namely the fifth di S ta Croce and the sixth de Dorso duro F The Church of Saint George the greater G And the Church of Santa Maria delle gratie both lie in the Sextary di Santa Croce H The Iland Giudecca belongs to the sextary di Dorso duro K The banke of the sea vulgarly Il Lido L The Iland Murana M The new Lazaretto N Mazorbo O Buran P San Franscesco del deserto Little Ilands Q Torcello R Duo Caestelli S La Certosa T S ta Hellena V Lazaretto Fecchio W Chioza X Malamocco the hauen within the sea banke Y Pcuegia an Iland Z San ' Georgiod ' Alega in the way as we come from Paduoa to Venice a little Iland 〈…〉 La Concordia a little Iland The Henetians of Paphlagonia their King Palemon being dead at the siege of Troy ioyned themselues to Antener and possessing these parts after they had driuen out the Euganeans called the countrey Venice and through their great vertue were made Citizens of Rome and their chiefe men Senators thereof But when Attila King of the Huns inuaded Italy and the Empire of the West being weakned did destroy the same the said Henetians came out of
of birds Nightingales flying loose in the groues and the most pleasant prospect In this Castle Marino we made some stay to expect some passengers which were longer detained at Rome by their businesse And the Pope in this place giues sixty Horsemen Musqueters to accompany the Carrier vulgarly called Il Procaccia and to defend him from the spoyling of banished men vulgarly called Banditi And for this cause all passengers goe in this Carriers company neither dare any passe alone For these banished men lurking vpon the confines of the Popes State and the Kingdome of Naples many times make excursions as farre as these mountaines to doe robberies and the weeke last past they had killed many passengers and had robbed the Carrier who doth not onely beare letters but leades many Mules laded with goods The chiefe of these banished men was the Nephew so they call Church-mens bastards of the Cardinall Caietano who hauing eight thousand crownes yeerely reut in these parts was banished by the Pope and he vnderstanding that a Roman Gentleman passed with that Carrier who had great friends about the Pope and hoping to make his peace by taking him prisoner did for that cause assaile that Carrier and his guard till hearing that the Gentleman while they fought had escaped to the next City he withdrew himselfe his men into the mountainrs This danger from banished men makes the iourney to Naples very trouble some and it is not safe nor lawful for any man to leaue the company of this Carrier So as the passengers rise before day and take horse and so sitting all the day yet ride not abouc twenty miles for the slow pace of the mules and at noone they haue no rest onely when they haue the Inne in sight so as there is no danger of theeues they are permitted to gallop before that they may eat a morsell or rather deuoure it for as soone as the mules are past they must to horse againe euery man not onely making hast for his owne safety but the souldiers forcing them to be gone who are more slow then the rest To conclude the mules going a very slow pace it was very irkesome to the passengers to rise before day and to follow them step by step Hauing dined at Marino and our full company being come we together with our guard of horse-men rode eight miles to Velitri through wooddy mountaines infamous for the robberies of banished men and vpon our right hand towards the South and towards the Tyrrhene sea was a Lake vulgarly called Lago Nympao which the old Romans delighted with doing difficult things vsed to fill with sea water and therein to make nauall fights One wood by which we passed was more dangerous then the rest where the Pope maintaines forty foot to assist the Guard of horse till they haue passed the same The discent of the last mountaine neere Velitri was two miles long yet pleasant by reason of the multitude of Vines growing vpon short stakes which vse to yeeld the richest wine Velitri is by writers called Belitre an old City of the Volsci and famous for the birth of the Emperour Augustus and the dwelling of the Octauian Family The second day in the morning we rode thirteene or foureteene miles to Sermoneta and in the midst of the way our guard of horseleft vs and their trumpet asked of euery man a gift in curtesie which we gladly gaue and there new horsemen meeting vs tooke vpon them our guard After dinner we rode eight miles to a little towne La casa nnoua and fiue miles to an old City which Liuy callesh Priuernum yet other Co'mographers write that the ruines thereof lie in a plaine two miles off whereas this is seated vpon a mountaine yet growing to a City by the decay of the former is called Priuernum and vulgarly Piperno We passed through wooddy mountaines full of Oliue trees on the right hand and a fruitfull plaine of corne and many Orchards of Orange trees and like fruits on the left hand And among the mountaines on the right hand the most remote was called Circello of the famous Witch Circe and it is a Promontory hanging ouer the sea where at this day they shew the cup in which Vlisses drunke the inchanted potion and vnder the hollow caues of this mountaine the Turkish Pirates lurke in the summer time and rob the Christians The last fiue miles of our iourney all the passengers and souldiers were put before the Carrier and his Mules for then we turned out of the plaine towards mountaines on the left hand where as they said the banished men had the weeke before assailed the Carrier After we had dined the horse-men left vs and certaine foot did after guide vs from one City to another The third day in the morning we had a guard of horse-men and rode twelue miles to Terracina an old City so called in the time of the Emperour Tiberius and we passed through a fertile plaine of corne on the right hand towards the Sea and stony hils full of Oliue trees on the left hand towards the Land and many vineyards and ruines of houses neere the City After we had this morning rode two miles we passed by an old Monastery called la Badia della fossa nuoua where they haue a monument of Saint Thomas Aquinas but his body was carried to the City Tolouse in France when the French-men had the Kingdome of Naples And after we had rode ten miles our guard of horse left vs and certaine foot meeting vs conducted vs other 2 miles In this way the waters in many places at the foot of the hils did stinke of brimstone but infinite Laurel trees on all sides refreshed our smel Terracina in the flourishing time of Rome was called Anxur and it is seated vpon a mountaine as most of the foresaid Cities are and it lieth vpon the sea which the land imbraceth like a halfe Moone this Citie lying vpon one horne thereof and the Citie Caieta vpon the other of which Citie the Cardinall had name who did oppose himselfe to Luther The flouds of the sea make great noise with striking vpon hollow caues of Rocks A souldier came out of the Tower of Torracina and demaunded of euery man fiue baocci which we paid though it were onely due from them who had portmanteaues with locks Neere this City we did see the ruines of a stately Theater After dinner we rode ten miles to the City Fondi through a stony way being part of the old way of Appius and vpon the right hand we had a plaine towards the sea and vpon the left hand rockey Mountaines towards the land where wee passed by the Citie Monticello At the mid-way the Popes guard hauing left vs we came to two old ruined walles shutting vp the way and lying from the Mountaine to the sea This place called Sportelle deuides the territories of the Pope and the King of Naples and is kept by a Garison of Spaniards I remember
at our comming backe these Souldiers demaunded of the passengers a gift in curtesie and when some refused it they stopped their passage and onely troubled them in the searching of their carriage vnder pretence that they might carry some prohibited things Those Souldiers did accompany vs to the Citie Fondi I call the same and some other places by the name of Citie because they were Cities of old though now they be onely Villages and haue no other beautie but the ruines of age This old Citie was sacked in the yeere 1534 by Barbarossa a Turkish Pirate It is seated in a Plaine hauing onely a meadow and a field ouerflowed betweene it and the sea and the houses are built of Flints and such litle stones but it had most pleasant Orchards of Citrons Oranges and Lemons The Orange trees at one time haue ripe and greene fruites and buds and are greene in winter giuing at that dead time a pleasant remembrance of Sommer By our Veturines sparing our diet was daily very short and at Terracina we could not so much as get wine and here our supper was so short as we iudged our Vetturines good Phisitians who perswade light suppers The wines of Fondi and Cecubo for the mount Cecubo is not farre distant are much celebrated by the Roman Poets namely by Horace The fourth day in the morning we rode ten miles to Mola vulgarly called Nola vpon a paued Causey betweene stony Mountaines being part of the way of Appius and through great woods of Oliue trees hauing by the way many Orchards of Oranges and like fruites and entering neere Mola into a more open aire Not onely this Village but all this sea coast is called Mola of the Miles as I thinke driuen by waters falling from the Mountaines and it is numbred among the most pleasant places of Italy Mola is built vpon the ruines of old Formia which are to be seene in the fields round about it Among these ruines is the house of Cicero who speakes of his Village Formia where Scipio and Lelius came to recreate themselues and there is also the sepulcher of Cicero so as it seemes he was killed by Anthony in this Territory After dinner we rode eight miles through a wilde field with low shrubs vpon a paued way till wee came to the Riuer Garigliano whose narrow and deepe streame we passed by boat and staied long about the putting ouer of our horses our company being great and each horseman paied fiue baocci for passage Neere this Riuer wee did see the ruines of a most faire Theater built of bricke and flint and of another old and round Theater and of a Conduit built of brick vpon a 140 arches Not farre hence among huge and snowy Mountaines is the Citie Traeto which hath the title of a Dukedome and was of old called Minturne After we had passed the Riuer we rode seuen miles to Sesso and three miles to a Country house through a fruitful Plaine of corne hauing the Tirrhene sea so neare vs as we might see it three or foure times And because the other Carrier comming from Naples to Rome lodged with his consorts a mile before vs in the Village Castellano we were forced to lodge in this Country house The fifth day in the morning at the beginning of our iourney we met the said Carrier with his consorts and we rode eight miles to the Village Francolisse in a most pleasant way betweene Hills of black clay like stone but a most fruitfull Countrey This Village lay on the left hand of our way towards the land among very pleasant Hills and the place is not farre distant where Hanibal brought into straights by Fabius did escape by a stratagem tying fire vpon the hornes of Oxen. After we rode 8 miles to the most pleasant City Capua through a most sweet Plaine called Laborina because it is laborious to the tiller but it is wonderfull fruitfull and aboundeth with Oliue trees and vines planted vpon Elmes Here we dined not according to our couenant at our Vetturines charge but at our owne cost and each man had such meate as he chose and that as I thinke because the passengers being now out of danger and in a place abounding with all dainties refused to be dieted at their Veturines pleasure and chose rather to feast themselues as they list And in deede we had excellent cheare delicate wine most white pure bread and among other dainties I remember wee had blacke Oliues which I had neuer seene before and they were of a most pleasant taste Here each of vs paid two Giulij and a halfe for our dinner This City is newly built but if you goe out of the Gates to Saint Maries Church towards Naples vpon the South-West side of the Towne there you shall see a Colossus and a Caue and many Monuments of old Capua among the Orchards the delicacies of which Citie were of old so famous as we reade that the Army of Hanibal grew effeminate thereby This new Citie hath a Castle vpon the North-East side built vpon the walles wherein is a Garrison of souldiers which keepeth the Citie in obedience and the Riuer Vulturnus runnes vpon the same side of the Citie which they passe with a bridge of stone neere which there is an inscription that Phillip King of Spaine repaired the way and built the bridge The Citie is of a little compasse but strong and it hath a faire Senate-House and a faire Church called l' Annonciata with a faire Altar After dinner wee had no guard neither were tied to accompany the Carrier but it was free for euery man to take his way and company or to ride alone at his pleasure So from Capua we rode eight miles to Anuersa a new Citie otherwise called Aduersa and of old called Attella whence were the old satyricall Comedies which were full of baudery and were called Attellane And betweene this City and the Mountaine Vesuuius now called Somma out of the way towards the land and neere the Castle Airola is the Valley Caudine where Hanibal put the Romans drawne into straites disgracefully to passe vnder a paire of gallowes which were called the Caudine gallows wel knowne to all that haue read Liuy The same afternoone we rode further eight miles to Naples And all this way from Capua to Naples is a most fruitfull plaine of corne and vines growing high vpon Elme trees according to the Tillage of Lombardy one and the same field yeelding corne and wine and wood to burne but the other wines of this Country growing vpon hills and mountaines and all the other fruites cannot be worthily praised We entered Naples on the East side by the Gate of Capua where the Vice-Ròies vse to enter in pompe And this Gate is stately built and vpon this side the suburbes are long and faire and the streete of Capua within the wals is no lesse faire in which is the prison and because we were attired like Frenchmen the prisoners
the City though it were taken by the enemy A little beneath is the monastery of the Carthusians and vpon pretence to enlarge that monastery the Emperour Charles the fifth built this most strong Castle to bridle the wonted petulancy and inconstancy of the Citizens and from thence there is a most sweet prospect as well into the City as to the bayes of the sea Towards the South-side is the Hauen and beyond the f bay of Naples lies firme land for the Sea comming in from the West makes this bay Vpon this side is a fortification for the safety of the hauen which is called g Il Molle it driues off the waues of the sea and makes the Hauen like an halfe Moone and therein at this time were twenty gallies and ten small ships The Armory lies vpon the Sea from whence the gallies and ships and land forces are armed and among other things there is kept the rich Armour yet without any ornament of gold of the French King Francis the first which he did weare when he was taken prisoner at Pauia Thereby lies a large market place in which is a faire fountaine with many Images casting out water Also there is a Tower where they set light by night to guide sea men into the Hauen In the said market place is a stone vpon which many play away their liberty at dice the Kings officers lending them money which when they haue lost and cannot repay they are drawne into the gallies for the Spaniards haue slaues of both sexes On the outside of the said Molle or fortification vpon the hauen towards the west neere to the shore lies the most strong fort called l Castello nuouo seated in a plaine and built by Charles the first of Arion and so fortified by Alphonso the first King of Aragon as it is numbred among the chiefe forts of Europe The inward gate is most faire all of marble and it hath a little fouresquare hall in which the Parliaments are yeerely held and the Viceroyes weekely sit in iudgement Neere this hall is a faire tower in which the Kingly ornaments are laid vp namely a scepter of gold with great diamonds vpon the top the sword with the haft and scabbard of gold adorned with precious stones the Kings Crowne shining with precious stones a golden crosse an huge pot of gold set with precious stones great Vnlcornes hornes and the chiefe kinds of precious stones Further towards the West yet so neere as the garden of the Pallace lies vpon the ditch of this Castle is the k Viceroyes Palace which hath a large and most sweet garden and delicate walk paued with diuers coloured and engrauen marbles And in this garden are two banquetting houses whereof one is very stately built and hath a sweet fountaine close to the table continually powring out water Also there is a delicate cage of birds wrought about with thick wyer and it is as big as an ordinary stil-house delicately shadowed round about wherein are many kinds of singing birds as well of Italy as forraigne Countries A little further within the water is the h Castle of the egge built vpon a rock by the Normans which Rocke is of an ouall forme and gaue the name to the Castle vulgarly called Castel ' del ' vuono which at this day is ruinous and some say it was the Pallace of Lucullus but it is certaine that the Normans built it as they did also another Castle which is old and called the Capuan Castle of the adioining Capuan-gate Naples was of old called Parthenope of one of the Syrens there buried whom they write to haue cast her selfe into the sea for griefe that by no flattery shee could detaine Vlisses with her The Citizens of old Cuma built Naples and left it should grow great to the preiudice of Cuma they pulled it down againe till at last oppressed with a great glague vpon the warning of an oracle they built it againe and changing the old name Parthenope called it Naples which in Greeke signifies a new City It is seated at the foot of hils and mountaines in length from the North-east to the South-west or rather seemeth to be triangular whereof two corners lie vpon the sea and that towards the West is more narrow then the other and the third blunt corner lies towards the mountaines Vpon the East-side there be pleasant suburbs and vpon the West-side more large suburbs but vpon the North-side without the wals there be onely some few eeeee scattered houses built vpon the sides of hils The houses of the City are foure roofes high but the tops lie almost plaine so as they walke vpon them in the coole time of the night or at left in generall the tops are not much erected like other parts of Italy and the building is of free stone and sheweth antiquity but the windowes are all couered with paper or linnen cloth for glasse windowes are most rare in Italy and as it were proper to Venice It hath three faire broad and long streetes namely La Toletano la Capuana and la vicaria the rest are very narrow There be eight gates towards land and as many towards sea among which the Capuan gate since the Emperour Charles the fifth entered thereat is decked with monuments and statuaes There be in this City very many Pallaces of Gentlemen Barons and Princes whereupon the City is vulgarly called Napoli Gentile Among these two Pallaces are most stately one of the Duke of Greuina which the King of Spaine forbad to be finished the other of the Prince of Salerno There be foure publike houses called Seggij in which the Princes and Gentlemen haue yeerely meetings and there also is the daily meeting of the Merchants Almost euery house hath his fountaine of most wholsome waters Neere the market place are many Innes but poore and base for howsoeuer the City aboundeth with houses where they giue lodging and meat yet it deserues no praise for faire Innes of good entertainement On all sides the eye is as it were bewitched with the sight of delicate gardens aswell within the City as neere the same The gardens without the wals are so rarely delightfull as I should thinke the Hesperides were not to be compared with them and they are adorned with statuaes laberinthes fountaines vines myrtle palme cetron lemon orange and cedar trees with lawrels mulberies roses rosemary and all kinds of fruits and flowers so as they seeme an earthly Paradice The fields are no lesse fruitfull bringing forth abundantly all things for the vse of man The Kings stables without the wals are worth the seeing for the horses of this Kingdome are much esteemed and if any man buy a horse to carry out of the Kingdome he payes the tenth part of the price to the King The City being seated vpon the sides of hils and by lying open to the South being subiect to great heates and most parts of the streetes being narrow so as in walking the heat
ridiculous and that they were in great part vndertaken by bankerouts and men ofbase condition I might easily iudge that in short time they would become disgracefull whereupon I changed my mind For I remembred the Italian Prouerbe La bellezza di putana la forza del'fachino c. nulla vagliano that is the beauty of a Harlot the strength of the Porter and to omit many like Musicke it selfe and all vertues become lesse prized in them who set them out to sale Also I remembred the pleasant fable that Iupiter sent raine vpon a Village wherewith whosoeuer was wet became a foole which was the lot of all the Inhaitants excepting one man who by chance for dispatching of businesse kept within doores that day and that when he came abroad in the euening all the rest mocked him as if they had beene wise and he onely foolish so as he was forced to pray vnto Iupiter for another like shower wherein he wetted himselfe also chusing rather to haue the loue of his foolish neighbours being a foole then to be dispised of them because he was onely wise And no doubt in many things wee must follow the opinion of the common people with which it is better regarding onely men to be foolish then alone to be wise I say that I did for the aforesaid causes change my mind and because I could not make that vndone which was done at least I resolued to desist from that course Onely I gaue out one hundred pound to receiue three hundred at my returne among my brethren and some few kinsmen and dearest friends of whom I would not shame to confesse that I receiued so much of gift And lest by spending vpon the stocke my patrimony should be wasted I moreouer gaue out to fiue friends one hundred pound with condition that they should haue it if I died orafter three yeeres should repay it with one hundred and fifty pound gaine if I returned which I hold a disaduantageous aduenture to the giuer of the money Neither did I exact this money of any man by sute of Law after my returne which they willingly and presently paid me onely some few excepted who retaining the very money I gaue them deale not therein so gentleman-like with me as I did with them And by the great expences of my iourny much increased by the ill accidents of my brothers death and my owne sickenesse the three hundred fifty pounds I was to receiue of gain after my return the one hundred pounds which my brother and I carried in our purses would not satisfie the fiue hundred pound we had spent though my brother died within the compasse of the first yeere but I was forced to pay the rest out of my owne patrimony Gentle Reader I will no longer trouble thee with these trifles onely in the behalfe of them who for a reasonable gaine and vpon long iournies and not vpon ridiculous aduentures haue put out their mony in this sort Giue leaue to me howsoeuer I desisted from that course to adde this All manners of attire came first into the City and Countrey from the Court which being once receiued by the common people and by very Stage-players themselues the Courtiers iustly cast off and take new fashions though somewhat too curiously and whosoeuer weares the old men looke vpon him as vpon a picture in Arras hangings For it is prouerbially said that we may eate according to our owne appetite but in our apparell must follow the fashion of the multitude with whom we liue But in the meane time it is not reproch to any who of old did were those garments when they were in fashion In like sort many daunces and measures are vsed in Court but when they come to be vulgar and to be vsed vpon very stages Courtiers and Gentlemen think them vncomely to be vsed yet is it no reproch to any man who formerly had skill therein To conclude that I may not trouble you with like examples which are infinite I say that this manner of giuing out mony vppon these aduentures was first vsed in Court and among the very Noble men and when any of them shewed thereby extraordinary strength the most censorious approued it but when any performed a long iourny with courage and discretion no man was found who did not more or lesse commend it according to the condition of the iourney performed Now in this age if bankerouts Stage-players and men of base condition haue drawne this custome into contempt I grant that Courtiers and Gentlemen haue reason to forbeare it yet know not why they should be blamed who haue thus put out their mony in another age when this custome was approued A man may iustly say it is great iniustice that our actions should be measured by opinion and not by reason but when a man leaues any custome that hath beene approued left hee should oppose himselfe to the common people a monster of many heads the most enuious hath nothing whereat they may iustly carpe And if any measure may be imposed to detracters surely they must spare them who vndertake long voyages ful of great dangers who doe not put out their money in Tauernes or at feasts to any man without distinction but dispose of their money with their friends vpon reasonable aduenture of gaine which in absence they cannot otherwise dispose to profit Finally who being not rich by patrimony take these iournies onely for experience and to be inabled to that expence doe condition this reasonable gaine I say the detracters must spare these and distinguish them from others who make cursorie iournies without any desire to better their vnderstanding thereby and more from those who in these courses rather make triall of their bodies strength then of their mindes abilitie And most of all from those who expose themselues to the scorne of men by base and ridiculous aduentures or that little differ from selfe-murtherers in vndertaking desperate actions for gaine In the same yere 1595 wherein some few months past I returned into England from my former iourney I now set forth againe towards Ierusalem and vpon the twentie nine of Nouember after the old stile I and my brother consort of my iourney went by water twentie miles which are seuenteene miles by land from London to Grauesend in a boat with two Oares for which we payed two shillings sixe Pence At last the winde seruing vs vpon the seuenth of December in the euening we set saile at an ebbing water and vpon the eighth of December in the afternoon hauing passed the Riuer Thames wee cast anchor vpon the shoare of England right before the Village Margets Then in the twilight of the euening wee put to Sea and the ninth of December entring the narrow Sea of Zealand vpon our call a boat came out of Vlishing to vs in which we went thither leauing our ship which went forward to Midleburg and each man paying a doller for his passage The eleuenth of December
was onely proper to the place at which we landed where they make salt till many Ilanders affirmed to me that the very earth the sweet hearbs the beasts feeding there and the fountaines of waters had a naturall saltnes The houses are built after the manner of Asia of a little stone one roofe high and plaine in the top which is plastered and there they eate and sleepe in the open aire By the assistance of a Venetian Merchant seuen of vs hired a ship of a Greeke dwelling in Cyprus for twenty eight zechines to Ioppa now called Iaffa or Giaffa with condition that he should stay at Ioppa fifteene dayes to expect our returne from Ierusalem and should thence carry vs to Tripoli in Syria The most part of these zechines wee left in the hand of the Venetian Merchant to be deliuered to the Master of this ship at his returne if he brought our testimonie vnder our hands that hee had performed all couenants with vs for wee also conditioned with him that hee should stay longer then fifteene dayes at Ioppa if neede were for our returne we paying him a zechine for euery day aboue fifteene which he should stay there for vs. We might haue hired a ship or Barke for ten zechines directly to Ioppa without these conditions of staying there and carrying vs to Tripoli And because the Turkish Gouernors of Cities vse to impose great tributes vpon Christians driuen into their Hauens somtimes by tricks of fraude to bring them in danger of life onely to spoile them of their money some of our Consorts would haue added another condition that the Master should not carrie vs to any Port but that of Ioppa had not the rest iudged it vnreasonable to tie him for performance of that which was onely in the power of God according to the windes which might force him to take harbor My selfe did familiarly know an English Gentleman who shortly after comming to Scanderona and there taking ship to passe by this shoare to Ioppa and so to Ierusalem if an honest man had not forewarned him had by the treason of a Ianizare in the way bin sold for a slaue to the inland Turks whence he was like neuer to be redeemed being farre remoued from Christians who onely trade vpon the Coasts And he was so terrified with this danger as he returned into England without seeing Ierusalem to which he had then a short iourney only carrying with him a counterfet testimonie and seale that he had been there because he had put out much money vpon his returne I formerly said that we lodged at Cyprus in a Monastery whence being now to depart the Friers of our company and also the Lay-men gaue each of vs eight lires of Venice to the Guardian of the Monastery and one lire to the Frier that attended vs in the name of gift or almes but indeede for three dayes lodging and dyet Vpon Friday the twentie foure of May we seuen Consorts namely two Franciscan Friers one Erimitane Frier and two Lay men all Frenchmen and my selfe and my brother hired a boat in the Hauen for foure lires of Venice to carrie vs to the Cyprian Barke we had hired and we carried with vs for our food a cheese costing foure Aspers a Iarre of Oyle costing sixe Aspers and a vessell of Wine called Cuso somewhat bigger then an English barrell and full of rich Wine but such as fretted our very intrals costing one Zechine and foure soldi of Venice and two Turkish aspers and egges costing twenty three aspers beside Bisket which we brought out of the Greeke ship In twilight for the nights vse not here to be darke we set saile and were forced to goe backe towards the West along the shoare of Cyprus to the Promontory called Capo di Gatti that is the Cape of Cats that we might from thence according to the Marriners experience fetch a faire winde So we sailed that euening thirtie miles of Italy I meane and the next day twentie miles to a Village of Cyprus called Lemisso where Christians ships vse to put in Here we cast anchor all the six twentie day of May expected a winde which we got at midnight following Ioppa is no more then two hundred fiftie miles from Cyprus and may easily be run in two nights and a daies saile with a faire winde yet how soeuer the wind was most fauourable to vs wee could see no land till Wednesday thetwenty nine of May at which time we found our selues by the ignorance of the Marriners to be vpon the Coast of Egypt neere the Citie Damiata which we might see seated vpon the banke of Nilus and they said it was some sixe miles from the Sea Now our Marriners seeing the shoare knew better to direct our sayling and the night following we lay at anchor neere this shoare Vpon Thursday we coasted the land of the Philistines and first did plainely see the Citie Gaza and after thirtie miles sayle the Citie Ascolon neere which we cast anchor for that night Vpon Friday being the last of May after two miles saile we entered the Hauen of Ioppa From hence we sent a messenger hired for fourteene meidines to the Subasha of Ramma intreating him that he would giue vs leaue to passe to Ierusalem and send vs a souldier to protect vs. The foresaid shore of the Philistines seemed to be a wild narrow and sandy plaine neere the sea with mountaines pleasant and fruitfull towards the East vpon Palestine The City of Ioppa mentioned in the scriptures had some ruines of wals standing which shewed the old circuit thereof but had not so much as any ruines of houses onely we did see the exactors of tribute come out of two ruinous Towers and some ragged Arabians and Turkes lying with their goods within certaine caues who also slept there or in the open aire These goods are daily carried hither and from hence vpon the backs of Cammels whereof we might see many droues laded both come and goe For this cause we would not land but thought better to lie in our shippe especially since the place affoorded no entertainment for strangers and our Mariners brought vs egges and fruites and we had with vs wine and bisket which notwithstanding we did hide left the Arabians or Turkes should take it from vs if they came to our Barke The Hauen is of little compasse but safe for small Barkes and was of old compassed with a bricke wall the ruines whereof still defend it from the waues of the sea The situation of Ioppa is pleasant vpon a hill declining towards the sea and the fields are fertile but were then vntilled Here the Prophet Ionas did take ship as it were to flie from God and the Machabei as appeares in the first booke and twelfth chapter here burnt the ships and the Apostle Peter lodging in the house of Simon was taught the conuersion of the Gentiles by a vision and here he raised vp Tabitha from death as the
Church built vpon Christs Sepulcher of old by the Christians at Ierusalem is formerly noted by the figure 32 and wee entered the same vpon Tuesday the eleuenth of Iune towards the euening at which time the Turkish Cady sent vs his Officer to open the dore of it to whom we payed for tribute after the dore was opened each of vs nine zechines and besides gaue the Officer or Ianizare a small reward for himselfe But it is the custome that he that hath once payed this tribute may any time after enter this Church without paying any thing if he can watch the opportunity of other Christians entering the same The rude but true figure in plaine of Christs Sepulcher and the Church built ouer it at Ierusalem a By this one and only dore being of brasse and on the South side of the Church entrance is giuen into the said Church They say there was of old another dore not farre from this towards the East but now it was not extant b This marke shewes where the Belfrey stands which is of ancient building and now in great part was ruined while the Turkes admit no vse of any Belles A A Marble stone called the stone of Vnction where they say the body of Christ was imbalmed before it was buried And it is compassed with grates of Iron hauing aboue it nine Lampes continually burning maintained by the nine Sects of Christians B The Sepulcher of Godfrey King of Ierusalem to which other lesse Sepulchers are adioyning erected to Kings and Queenes of his Family And this Sepulcher hath this Epitaph in Latin Here lyes worthy Godfrey of Bullon who conquered all this Land to the worship of Christ whose saule may it rest in peace Amen C The Sepulcher of Baldwine his brother and successor in the Kingdome with this Epitaph in Latin King Balduinus another Iudas Machabeus the Hope of his Countrey the Life of the Church the strength of both These verses added Quem for midabant cui Dona Tributa ferebant AEgipti caesar Dan ac homicida Damascus Whom Egypt Dan Damascus homicide With gifts and Tributes gladly pacifide D Here is Mount Caluary and the staires to ascend thereunto the walles of al the building vpon it the Altars and the pauements all shine with Marble the roofe on the inside glisters with the foresaid rich painting which seemes to be enameled And diuers Altars are proper to diuers Nations or Sects for their Rites of Religion To these Altars vpon the Mountaine we ascended by some twenty staires and there they shewed vs three holes wherein the three Crosses of Christ and the two theeues were erected And at the figure 1 where they say the Crosse of Christ stood they shewed vs stones rent or the rending of the Mountaine when Christ died Vnder this Mountaine in the corner towards the dore of the Church they bade vs looke in at a little window and there they shewed vs a scull which they say was the scull of Adam of which they say the Mountaine was called Golgotha 2 Without the doore of the Church we ascended to a Chappell aboue this Mount where they shewed vs an Altar vpon which they say Melchisedeck offered sacrifices 3 Also a Chappell where they say Abraham would haue offered Isaac 4 The Altars of Mount Caluary 5 A place in the way to the Sepulcher where they say that Christ laid downe his Crosse and where the Virgin Marie and Iohn the Enangelist stood while he was crucified E Here they shew a stone which they call Noli me tangere that is Touch me not because Christ appearing here to Marie Magdalen vsed those words 6 And in this place they say Marie Magdalen stood FFF Here is a retreat of certaine Chambers and Chappels vnder the keeping of the Latin or European Friers For they continually send two or three of their Friers to bee locked weekely within this Church for the performance of the Rites of their Religion whom they recall at the weekes end to their Monasterie in the Citie sending new in their place to attend that seruice And this retreat hath onely a doore to passe into the Church but none into the streete G The Chappell of Apparition so called because they say Christ there appeared to the Virgin Marie after his Resurrection H The pillar of whipping so called because they say Christ was bound to it when he was beaten with rods h This Altar they call the Altar of the holy Crosse. I A most narrow prison in which they say Christ was shut vp for a little time K The Chappell where they say that the Souldiers diuided Christs garments L Here we descended some fiftie staires into a caue vnder the earth which they haue made a Chappell and here they say the Empresse Helena found the Crosse of Christ and thereupon built this Chappell in which they say foure pillars many times make a sound of groaning and sighing and they shew the very place where the Crosse of Christ and where the Crosses of the two theeues were found N After Christ was beaten they say he was forced to sit here till they crowned his head with Thornes P The Chauncell of the Church p A hole in the pauement of this Chauncell which the Greekes hauing the Chauncell to keepe hold to be the middest of the World q This place lies open ouer head hauing the Sepulcher on the West side and two little Marble walles raised some two foote on the North and South sides within which wals the place is paued with Marble The walles are so high as a man cannot conueniently sit vpon them And in this place they vse to pray before they enter the Sepulcher r The outward Chappell or Porch of the Sepulcher as I may so terme it where the Angell is said to haue appeared to the women And therein lies a foure-square stone fitted to the little dore of the Sepulcher vpon which stone roled from the dore they say the Angell did sit after Christ was risen ss These be seats on both sides of this outward Chappell in which seates they vse to pray t In this Chappell so they call the Sepulcher it selfe and vnder the stone noted with blacke they say the body of Christ was laied And this stone is raised as high as an Altar and couered with Marble as all the walles bee The little dore by which they enter this Chappell or Sepulcher is scarse 3 foote high and a broad so as they enter it with difficulty bending downe their bodies as if they crept into a caue The very stone couering the Sepulcher or place where Christs body did lie is somewhat raised from the ground and hath seuen foote in length and some sixe in bredth This Sepulcher lyes vnder the first Globe of the Church as the Chauncell lies vnder the second and it lyes vnder the middle of that Globe neither hath the Church any window but the Globe hanging ouer the Sepulcher is open in the roofe and so giueth light to all the Church
Damascus and Haleppo yet the City of Tripoli still yeelds foure hundred thousand crownes yeerely to the Great Turke It may seeme incredible but it is most certaine that here and throughout Syria they haue sheepe of such bignes as the very tailes of them hanging in many wreathes to the ground doe weigh twenty fiue pounds and many times thirty three pounds A Christian who vseth to entertaine the French did very well intreat vs here and when I did see a bed made for me and my brother with cleane sheetes I could scarcely containe my selfe from going to bed before supper because I had neuer lien in naked bed since I came from Venice to this day hauing alwaies slept by sea and land in my doublet with linnen breeches and stockings vpon a mattresse and betweene couerlets or quilts with my breeches vnder my head But after supper all this ioy vanished by an euent least expected For in this part of Asia great store of cotten growes as it were vpon stalkes like Cabbage as I formerly said in my iourney from Ioppa to Ierusalem and these sheetes being made thereof did so increase the perpetuall heat of this Countrey now most vnsupportable in the summer time as I was forced to leape out of my bed and sleepe as I had formerly done My Host told me a strange thing namely that in Alexandria of AEgypt seated vpon one of the mouthes of the Riuer Nilus there was a Doue-cote that also at Cairo or Babylon farre within the Land of AEgypt there was another Doue-cote and because it much concernes the Merchants to haue speedy newes of any commodity arriuing he assured mee that they vsed to tie letters about the neckes of the Doues at Alexandria and so to let them loose which Doues hauing formerly bred in the Doue-cote at Cayro did flie thither most swiftly and the Keeper of them there taking the Letters they brought vsed to deliuer them to the Merchants This I beleeued not till I came to Haeleppo and telling it for a fable to the English Merchants there they seriously affirmed the same to be true Moreouer the Host of Tripoli told me newes from Constantinople namely that the Greekes had burnt great part of the City which he thought to be false and onely inuented to oppresse them in other parts and that the Ianizaries had raised a great tumult against the Subasha of the City who vsed great seuerity towards them by restraining them from drinking wine and from keeping harlots and that some one hundred of these seditious Ianizaries were drowned in the Heuen and the rest were daily sought out to be punished Moreouer that Halil Basha the Admirall of Turkey was parted from Constantinople with sixty Gallies hauing taken many Greeke and Armenian Christians by force to row in his Gallies besides that for want of Marriners he had left there twenty Gallies which were prepared to keepe that narrow sea Finally that the Great Turke was presently to goe with his Army into Hungary but was not yet departed from the City Now the French-men our consorts went aboard a ship of Marsiles to returne into France But my selfe and my brother being to goe by Land to Haleppo agreed to giue our Muccaro nine piastri for two Asses to ride vpon and their meate and for three tributes called cafarri which he was to pay for vs by the way comming to some twenty meidines They call him Muccaro who lets out Mules Asses or Horses and they call him Malem who conducts the Merchants goods Moreouer we were forced to giue a suger-loafe to the value of a Zechine to the Gouernour of the City and a Piastro to the Scribe or Clerke of the City for the priuiledge to goe without a Ianizare to conduct vs so they pretended omitting no occasions to extort from Christians But we couenanted not to pay the nine piastri to our Muccaro till our iourney was ended onely giuing one piastro into his hands for earnest and pretending that we would pay the rest at Haleppo where we were to receiue money left they thinking that we had store of crowns with vs should practise any treason or oppression against vs. This Piastro we gaue him in hand to buy meat for his beasts and the other eight we paid after at Haleppo and besides gaue him of free gift a zechine for his faithfull seruice to vs by the way We were to take our iourney with the Carauan going from Tripoli to Haleppo The Turkes call a Carauan the company of Merchants passengers and driuers of loaded Camels keeping together for safety against Theeues and vsing to lodge in the open field For in Turkey they make iourneies in great troopes neither did I euer see any ride alone but onely a horseman of the Armie and that very rarely Vpon Saturday the two and twentie of Iune we went out of Tripoli at the North Gate and passed ouer a Bridge of the foresaid Brooke and from eight of the clocke till Noone we passed along the Sea-shoare and ouer high Mountaines then ouer an vntilled Plaine seeing not one Village nor so much as the least house by the way Then at last comming to a little shade of Fig-trees we rested there the heate of the day and fed vpon such victuals as we had while our Muccaro and the rest gaue meate to their beasts At three of the clock in the after-noone we went forward in the like way and late in the euening we came to a Village neere which we lodged in the open field in a pleasant plot of grasse neere the banke of a Riuer planted with some trees Vpon Sunday wee rose early and for two howers space passed a Promontory of the Sea then turning towards the Land wee passed through wilde and vntilled Hilles and plaine fields and at Noone we rested vnder the shaddow of some Brambles refreshing our selues with meate and sleepe and giuing meate to our Asses At three in the afternoone wee went forward and passed by the Castle Huss in which some say Iob dwelt and which they say was possessed by the French while they had the Kingdome of Ierusalem Also we passed by a Monastery of Saint George then possessed by Christian Friers and seated in a pleasant Valley yeelding trees of Figs and Oliues And towards euening we incamped as I may terme it in the open field at the foot of a high Mountaine They say Iob did of old possesse this Territorie and that not farre hence in the way leading to Damascus there is a Citie now called Hemps and of old called Huss which the Christian Inhabitants to this day call the Citie of Iob and the Valley not far distant the Valley of Huss and the Turkes haue built a Mosche or Church in this Citie which they thinke to be built vpon the very ruines of the house wherein Iob dwelt and that his body was carried from hence to Constantinople Others obiect that according to the Scriptures Iob could not dwell here because they write
Camera being neere vs where the great Turkes Gallies lie By the way they shewed me a Castle towards the East vpon the shore of Asia the lesse which they say stands vpon the confines of the Troian Dominion and thereof hath the name to this day The Iland Marmora is so called as I think of themarble wherewith it aboundeth The second of Ianuary we set sayle from Marmora and being by contrary winds driuen backe as I think or little aduanced we came to the Iland Aloni some ten miles distant from Marmora and so called of the forme of a yard in which Oxen vsed to grinde Corne or beate it small After the beginning of the new yeere which the Greekes as most of Europe begin the first of Ianuarie the first Wednesday being the fourth of that month the Grecian Marriners haue a custom retained from old times to baptize the Sea as they terme it which done they thinke the Flouds and Windes to grow more calme then formerly The Iland Aloni hath a Port on all sides compassed with Ilands and that very large and safe where while we passed some stormy daies wee heard of many Barkes and Gallies cast away While I walked here vpon the shoare a wild-headed Turke tooke my hat from my head being of the fashion of Europe not vsed there and hauing turned it and long beheld it he said to vse his rude words Lend me this vessell to ease my belly therein and so girning flung it'on the dyrtie ground which I with patience tooke vp These and like wrongs of speech euen threatnings of blowes I sometimes indured in Turkey but neuer had the disaster to haue any blow giuen me by any of them which many good Christians notwithstanding haue suffered and daily suffer and my selfe if they had fallen to my share must haue suffered with patience except I would by resistance haue incurred shamefull and cruell death On Thursday the thirteenth of Ianuary at last wee set sayle with a faire winde and after twentie miles sayling we passed by the Citie Palormo seated vpon the shoare of Asia the lesse and famous for the white Wine it yeeldeth the best that euer I tasted and hauing sayled ten miles further we sailed by the Citie Heraclea seated on the shore of Greece whereof in my returne this way I shall haue cause to speake more at large Towards euening we thought we were come to one of the corners of Constantinople called the seuen Towers yet by reason of the foresaid swift channell running from the black Sea full against vs with a most faire wind we could not land in the Hauen of Constantinople till midnight hauing that day sayled one hundred and twentie miles in all from the said Ile Aloni This voyage was more tedious to vs in that howsoeuer landing we had somtimes good dyet yet while we were at Sea we had no good victuals in the ship For the Greeke Marriners feede of Onions Garlike and dried fishes one kinde whereof they call Palamides and the Italians call Palamite and in stead of a banket they will giue you a head of Garlick rosted in the ashes and pleasantly call it a pigeon With this and Bisket they content themselues and these we were forced to eate hauing omitted to prouide any dried or salt meates at Candia because wee hoped to find those in our Barke and knowing that it was in vaine to prouide any fresh meates because they would not suffer a fier to be made in so small a Barke wherewith we might dresse them But after we had eaten Bisket and dried fishes we had an vnknowne comfort or helpe to disgest them For in our priuat cabbin we had the head of a tun of Muskedine lying vnder our heads when we slept in stead of a bolster and our ship being bound on the vpper part of the sides with bundles of Reedes to beate off the force of the waues we taking one of the long Reedes found meanes to pierce the vessell and get good Wine to our ill fare and drunke so merrily that before wee came to our iournies end our former Reede became too short so as we were faine to piece it with another Hauing cast anchor as I said in the Port of Constantinople behold as soone as day began to breake many companies of Turkes rushing into our Barke who like so many starued flies fell to sucke the sweete Wines each rascall among them beating with cudgels and ropes the best of our Marriners if he durst but repine against it till within short space the Candian Merchant hauing aduertised the Venetian Ambassadour of their arriuall he sent a lanizare to protect the Barke and the goods and assoone as he came it seemed to me no lesse strange that this one man should beate all those Turkes and driue them out of the Barke like so many dogs the common Turkes daring no more resist a souldier or especially a Ianizare then Christians dare resist them And the Seriant of the Magistrate hauing taken some of our Greeke Marriners though subiect to the State of Venice to worke for their Ottoman in gathering stones and like base imployments this Ianizary caused them presently to be released and to be sent againe into their Barke such is the tyranny of the Turkes against all Christians aswel their subiects as others so as no man sayleth into these parts but vnder the Banner of England France or Venice who being in league with the great Turke haue their Ambassadours in this Citie and their Consuls in other Hauens to protect those that come vnder their Banner in this sort sending them a Ianizare to keepe them from wrongs so soone as they are aduertised of their arriuall My selfe lodged in the house of Master Edward Barton the English Ambassadour who gaue me a Ianizare to guide and protect me while I went to view the City round about the whole circuit whereof I went on foot and by boat in foure houres space the forme of the Citie being triangular and containing nine miles by Sea towards the North and East and fiue miles by land towards the West I professe my selfe to haue small skill in the art of Geography yet will I aduenture though rudely to set downe the forme and situation of this City so plainely as I doubt not but the Reader may easily vnderstand it howsoeuer in the same as in other cities formerly described I acknowledge that I vse not the rule of the scale in the distance of places nor other exquisite rules of that Art hauing no other end but to make the Reader more easily vnderstand my description The description of the City of Constantinople and the adiacent Territories and Seas The great lines or walles shew the forme of the City and the single small lines describe the Teritory adioyning A In this Tower they hang out a light of pitch and like burning matter to direct the Saylers by night comming to the City or sayling along the coast out of the
Sea Euxinus which they say is called the Black Sea of many shipwracks therein happening And this Tower is sixteene miles distant from the Citie B Here is a marble pillar erected vpon a Rocke compassed with the sea which they call the pillar of Pompey and therein many passengers for their memory vse to ingraue their names And here are innumerable flocks of Sea foule and of many kindes wherewith hee that is skilfull to shoote in his Peece may abundantly furnish himselfe C Here is the Euxine or black Sea D E Here lie two strong Castles one in Europe the other in Asia some eight miles distant from the Citie built to defend the Hauen from the assault of the enemies by Sea on that side and the Garrison there kept searcheth the ships comming from the Citie that no slaues or prohibited goods be carried therein neither can any ship passe vnsearched except they will hazard to be sunck Finally the great Turke sends his chiefe prisoners to be kept in these strong Castles F Here great ships vse to cast anchor at their first arriuall till they bee vnloaded and here againe they ride at anchor to expect windes when they are loaded and ready to depart G All along this banke and the opposite side for a large circuit the greatest ships vse to lie when they are vnloaded and they lie most safely and close by the shore fastaned by cables on land H Here lyes the old Citie built by the Genoesi of Italy called Gallata by the Turks and Perah by the Greekes of the situation beyond the Channell It is now accounted a Suburbe of Constantinople and is seated vpon a most pleasant hill wherein for the most part liue Christians aswell subiects as others and the Ambassadours of England France and Venice only the Emperours Ambassadour must lye within the Citie more like a pledge of peace then a free Ambassadour and very few Turkes liue here mingled with the Christians The situation of Gallata as I said is most pleasant Formerly the Ambassadours of England were wont to dwell vpon the Sea-shore in the Plaine and their Pallace is not farre distant from this note K but Master Edward Barton the English Ambassadour at this time dwelt vpon the top of the hill in a faire house within a large field and pleasant gardens compassed with a wall And all Gallata is full of very pleasant gardens and compassed with pleasant fields whereof some towards the land furthest from the Sea are vsed for the buriall of Turkes I Here a little Creeke of the Sea is compassed with walles and buildings within which the Gallies of the great Turke lie in safety and there be fit places to build Gallies and store-houses for all things thereunto belonging K Here is the chiefe passage ouer the water called Tapano where a man may passe for two aspers All along this Sea banke lye very many great Gunnes as vpon the Tower Wharfe at London and here the fishers land and sell their fish L Here the Megarenses of old built Chalcedon a Citie of Bethinia famous for a Councell held there by the ruine of which Citie Constantinople increased At this day there is onely a Village or rather some scattered houses and it is commonly called Scuteri or Scudretta M Here the Great Turks mother then liuing had her priuate Garden N Hither the Heyre of the Empire is sent as it were into banishment vnder pretence to gouerne the Prouince Bursia assoone as he is circumcised and so being made a Musulman that is a circumcised Turke first begins to draw the eyes of the Army and Ianizares towards him O Here is the Pallace or Court of the great Turke called by the Italians Seraglio and vulgarly Saray and it was of old the Monastery of Saint Sophia Mahomet the second first compassed it with walls and the buildings together with the large and pleasant gardens are some three or foure miles in circuit I entered the outward Court thereof by a stately Gate kept by many Ianizares called Capigi of that office The court yard was large all compassed with building of free stone two stories high with a low and almost plaine roofe tyled and without windowes after the maner of the building of Italy and round about the inside it was cast out with arches like the building of Cloisters vnder which they walked drie in the greatest raine And in this Court is a large pulpit or open roome where the great Turke vieth to shew himselfe to the Ianizares to satisfie them when they make any mutiny P Here is a banqueting house vulgarly called Chuske the prospect whereof is more pleasant then can be expressed beholding foure Seaes at once and the land on all sides beyond them Q Here is the Church of Saint Sophia opposite to the Court Gate of old built by the Christians after the forme of Salomons Temple and indowed with the annuall rent of three hundred thousand Zechines now made a Mosche or Mahometan Church And howsoeuer the Turks cannot indure that vnwashed Christians so called by them because they vse not Baths so continually as they doe should enter their Mosches or passe ouer their Sepulchers yet my self entered this Church with the Ianizare my guid trusting to his power to defend me yet he willed me first to put of my shooes and according to the Turkes custome to leaue them in the porch where they were late till we returned The Church is of a round forme and built of bricke and supported with faire pillars and paued with Marble ouer which the Turks layed Mats to kneele and prostrate themselues more commodiously vpon them The roofe is beautified with pictures of that rich painting which the Italians call alla Mosaica shining like enameled work which now by antiquity were much decaied and in some parts defaced Round about the Church hung many Lampes which they vse to burrie in the time of their Lent called Beyram and euery weeke vpon Thursday in the euening and Friday all day which they keepe holy after their fashion for their Sabbath day Round about the vpper part of the Church are large and most faire Galleries And here I did see two Nuts of Marble of huge bignesse and great beauty Moreouer I did see the great Turke when he entered this Church and howsoeuer it lie close to the Gate of his Pallace yet he came riding vpon a horse richly trapped with many troopes of his chiefe horsemen standing in ranke within the Courts of his Pallace and from the Court Gate to the Church dore betweene which troopes on both sides he passed as betweene walles of brasse with great pompe And when a Chaus or Pensioner being on horseback did see mee close by the Emperours side hee rushed vpon me to strike me with his mace saying What doth this Christian dog so neere the person of our great Lord But the Ianizare whom our Ambassadour had giuen me for a Guide and Protector repelled him from doing mee any wrong and many Ianizares
according to their manner comming to helpe him the Chaus was glad to let mee alone and they bade me be bold to stand still though I were the second or third person from the Emperour Neere this Church is the stately Sepulcher of Selymus the second and another Sepulcher no lesse stately and newly built for Amurath lately deceased where he lay with those male children round about him who according to the manner were strangled by his Successour after hee was dead Not farre thence is the Market place hauing some one hundred marble pillars about it and adorned with a Pyramis or pinacle erected vpon foure Globes and with a pleasant Fountaine of water together with other ornaments left as it seemes by Christian Emperours R The wonderfull Mosche and Sepulcher of Solyman numbred among the miracles of the World S Two houses for the same vse as the Exchange of London where the Merchants meete namely for the selling of fine wares but no way to be compared to the same for the building They are called the great and the lesse Bezestan and vse to bee opened onely certaine daies of the weeke and for some sixe howers at which times small and more pretious wares are there to be sold as Iewels Semiters or Swords set with Iewels but commonly counterfet pieces of Veluet Satten and Damaske and the like And the Market place is not farre distant where Captiues of both sexes are weekely sold and the buyers if they will may take them into a house and there see them naked and handle them as wee handle beasts to know their fatnesse and strength T Here is a Fort that is fortified with seuen Towers called by the Turkes Iadicule and by Christians the seuen Towers where a garrison of Souldiers is kept because the Emperors treasure is there laied vp and cheefe Prisoners vse to be kept there The treasure is vulgarly said to bee laied vp there but the great Turke seldome goes thither and since it is true that where the treasure is there is the mind I thinke it probable which I haue heard of experienced men that most of the treasure lies in the Seraglio where the great Turke holds his Courr V Here be the ruines of a Pallace vpon the very wals of the City called the Pallace of Constantine wherein I did see an Elephant called Philo by the Turkes and another beast newly brought out of Affricke the Mother of Monsters which beast is altogether vnknowne in our parts and is called Surnapa by the people of Asia Astanapa by others and Giraffa by the Italians the picture whereof I remember to haue seene in the Mappes of Mercator and because the beast is very rare I will describe his forme as well as I can His haire is red coloured with many blacke and white spots I could scarce reach with the points of my fingers to the hinder part of his backe which grew higher and higher towards his foreshoulder and his necke was thinne and some three els long so as hee easily turned his head in a moment to any part or corner of the roome wherein he stood putting it ouer the beames thereof being built like a Barne and high for the Turkish building not vnlike the building of Italy both which I haue formerly described by reason whereof he many times put his nose in my necke when I thought my selfe furthest distant from him which familiarity of his I liked not and howsoeuer the Keepers assured me he would not hurt me yet I auoided these his familiar kisses as much as I could His body was slender not greater but much higher then the body of a stagge or Hart and his head and face was like to that of a stagge but the head was lesse and the face more beautifull He had two hornes but short and scarce halfe a foote long and in the forehead he had two bunches of flesh his eares and feete like an Oxe and his legges like a stagge The Ianizare my guide did in my names and for me giue twenty Aspers to the Keeper of this Beast W X Here be two Castles or Forts diuided by the Hollespont one seated in 〈◊〉 the other in Asia whereof I made mention in my sayling to Constantinople and of which I shall speake more largely at my going from this City Constantinople built sixe hundred sixty three yeeres before Christ was borne by 〈◊〉 a Lacedemonian was first called Bizantiam till Constantine the Great in the yeere of the Lord 315 did rebuild it after it had beene destroied by the Emperour 〈◊〉 and called it by his name The Turkes vnder Mahimet the second first tooke this City in the yeere 1453 from the Christians with destruction of great multitudes of them and at this day it is called of the great circuit Stimbals by the Graecians and Stambalda by the Turkes It is seated in Thrace also called Romania and is built in forme of a Triangle whereof two sides towards the North and East lie vpon two seas and the third side towards the West lies vpon the continent of Greece For many causes this City is famous and in two respects may be iustly preferred to any other in the World knowne to vs namely for the pleasantnesse of the situation and the largenesse and safety of the Hauen The forme thereof formerly set downe doth in part shew the pleasantnes of the situation but the fruitfulnesse of the fields the sweetnes and beauty of the flowers and the variety and goodnesse of the fruits cannot sufficiently be praised The fishes in the winter season flying from the cold of the Euxine or black Sea falldowne in great numbers into the Sea Propontis passing close by the wals of the City and againe in Summer time not induring the heat of the Mediterianean sea returne backe in like numbers the same way This City hath a thousand pleasant creekes of the Sea within sight To conclude the Countrey is no lesse pleasant then the Inhabitants are wicked The Hauen will receiue an huge number of shippes and vpon both the bankes of the City and Gallata shippes of 300 〈◊〉 or greater once vnloaded may so lie with their cables fastened on the Land as they 〈◊〉 from the shippes to Land without 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and for the excellency of the Port the City itselfe is called the Port by the Turkes and Ouid cals it the Port of two Seas for the two channels of Propontis and the Euxine Sea Of old the City had eleuen gates called Aurea Pargea Romana Carthasez Regia Caligaria Kilma Harmagona Phara Theodosia and Spilica At this day the slender wall of bricke towards the Sea hath thirteene gates not worth the naming The wall towards the Land is of bricke and is said to haue beene much ruined in the yeere 1509 by an Earth-quake yet still on that side are three wals which are broad enough for a cart to passe of which the outmost towards land is little higher then the foundation of the second nor that much higher
thereof namely clothes of Gold Damasks and Grogerans to the value of a thousand thousand zechines as the report went and setting the ship on fire tooke away the marriners for slaues And the very time of my being in this Iland seuen Turkish Gallies lay vpon this coast and robbed all the Venetian ships falling into their hands so as howsoeuer they had peace then with the Turkish Ottoman yet their ships durst not stirre out of this hauen Whereupon they hauing now occasion to send out ships for Corne the Magistrate forced the Master of an English ship then harbouring there to wast these ships though much against his will when there were some 20 Venetian ships in the same Hauen whereof diuers were of 400 or 500 tuns Also at this time it hapned that a Spanish ship of Catolonia was driuen into this Harbor and the Magistrate calling our Merchants before him would haue forced them to giue caution that the English ships then lying there should not assaile the same though betweene England Spaine war had now long time bin proclaimed but they contesting against this course as iniurious to them yet could not be dismissed till they gaue their words that our ships should not assayle the same by day or night so long as it lay in this Hauen And this Spanish ship for long time not daring to goe forth at last vpon occasion of Venetian Gallies landing there was wafted by them and so escaped Vpon the robbing and burning of the foresaid Venetian ship by Turkish Pyrates the Venetian Baliffe so they call their Ambassadour lying then at Constantinople had obtained the great Turkes Mandate that these Pyrates gallies being burnt they should presently be sent in bonds to his Court and this Mandate was brought by a Chiauss or Pencioner who came in the same ship with vs whereupon the Pyrates being more inraged against the Venetians did at this time take and spoyle another Venetian ship of some foure hundred and fifty Tunnes called the Syluester and not content with the most rich booty did cast into the Sea many Marriners yeelding to mercy and could hardly be perswaded by the intercession of Turkes passengers in the same ship to spare the liues of some twenty chiefe Marriners yet aliue and to forbeare the burning of the ship The Italians of best iudgement did not expect that the great Turke would duly punish these outrages but rather were of opinion that himselfe and his chiefe Visere would draw the greatest part of the prey to their own hands and that the Turkish Gouernours inticed by like participation would endeuour to free these Pyrates and doe their best to nourish them yea that this very Chiauss now sent with a Mandate to suppresse them would be induced by bribes to returne to Constantinople with relation that the Pyrates could not be found so they did as no doubt they would for a time hide themselues and in conclusion that the Venetians after hauing spent much money in obtaining new Mandates for their apprehension should find no other remedy but to repell force by force Vpon Wednesday the thirtieth of March after the old stile in the beginning of the yeere 1597 we set sayle but by contrarietie of winds were againe driuen backe into the Hauen of Zante Vpon Friday the first of Aprill after dinner againe we set saile and the second of Aprill sayling by the Iland Cefalonia whereof I spake in our voyage from Venice to Ierusalem we cast anchor in the outward Hauen of the Iland Corfu because the Master of our ship was sicke and this his sickenesse increasing we set saile to returne backe to the chiefe City of that Iland the Hauen whereof we entered the sixth of Aprill From Zante to Cefaloniae are seuenty miles and from thence to Corfu are 120 miles This Iland Corfu inhabited by Greekes is very fertile yeelding plenty of fruites corne wines and Currands and this Hauen is fortified with two Forts cut out off a Rocke namely the old and the new Fort which is more then a mile in circuit both being very strong and held vnexpugnable so as this Iland is worthily reputed one of the chiefe Keyes of Christendome The Master of our ship hauing recouered his health wee set saile vpon Tuesday the twelfth of Aprill and returned againe to the foresaid outward Hauen of Corfu Iland where an old woman a passenger died and her kinsemen carried her body to be buried on Land Here againe we were forced to stay the winds being contrary Atlast vpon the nineteenth of Aprill towards euening with a faire wind we ioyfully set saile and the twentieth day we sailed ouer the streight Sea betweene Greece and the Prouince of Apulia in Italy Vpon Friday the two and twentieth of Aprill towards the euening hauing sayled some two hundred miles from the said streight we were carried by the shoare of the City Raguza with a faire gale of wind and had the wind beene neuer so contrary yet our Master knowing some late difference risen betweene the Raguzeans and Venetians would not willingly haue landed in that Hauen The blame of which difference some imputed to the Raguzeans in that they fauoured the Scocchi a Neighbour people vpon the shoare of Sclauonia who being subiect to the Emperour and Christians yet robbed all kinds of ships passing these Seas and had lately spoiled and burnt a Venetian Gally in the Port of Rouinge But other alleaged a more probable cause thereof namely that some Venetian Gentlemen for some venerious in solencies there committed had Iately beene slaine in a tumult Raguze of old called Epidaurus and the chiefe City of Selauonia is foure hundred miles distant from Venice built at the foot of an high mountaine vpon the Sea shoare and hath great trafficke by those Seas and huge ships which the Kings of Spatne haue often hired and ioined to their Nauy The gouernement is popular and this City to the wonder of many doth to this day maintaine the liberty though it be seated betweene the very iawes of the two powerfull States of the great Turke and Venetians to one of which all other neere Townes Ilands and Countries are subiect For the Venetians are loath to driue them being Christians to such despaire as they might be forced to yeeld themselues to the great Turke and the City is very strongly fortified towards the sea whence the Venetians can onely assaile them besides that they pay great customes of their trafficke to the State of Venice for which reason that State attempts nothing against the freedome of the City Againe the Turkes knowing that if they should besiege the City by Land the Citizens would with all their best moueables flie into Italy by Sea and receiuing also a great yeerely tribute from the trafficke of this City where the great Turke hath his owne Officer called Chiaussagha to gather the same are also content not to molest them by warre especially since they know that the Pope the King of Spaine
Iuly in the yeere 1597 our hearts beingfull of ioy that our mercifull God had safely brought vs thither This early hower of the morning being vnfit to trouble my friends I went to the Cocke an Inne of Aldersgate streete and there apparrelled as I was laid me downe vpon a bed where it happened that the Constable and watchmen either being more busie in their office then need was or hauing extraordinary charge to search vpon some foraine intelligence and seeing me apparrelled like an Italian tooke me for a Iesuit or Priest according to their ignorance for the crafty Priests would neuer haue worne such clothes as I then did But after some few howers when I awaked and while I washed my hands did inquire after my friends health dwelling in the same streete the Host of the house knowing me dismissed the watchmen that say to apprehend me and told me how I had been thus mistaken CHAP. V Of the iourney through England Scotland and Ireland HE that desires to see the Cities and Antiquities of England Scotland and Ireland let him reade the Chapter of the vsuall manner of all kingdomes to iourney and to hire Coches and horses and also the Chapter wherein these Kingdomes are Geographically described out of Camden or if he list rather let him reade Camden himselfe of this point and lastly let him in the same last named Chapter peruse the diet of these Kingdomes and the entertainement in Innes Touching the distances of places by miles first for England he shall easily find a little printed booke particularly setting downe the same For Scotland I will briefely set downe my iourney therein And for Ireland the Cities being rare and farre distant hee must haue a guide who may without great trouble inquire them out Onely giue me leaue for the helpe of strangers to adde this one thing namely how they being curious to search antiquities and loth to omit the light of things worthy of obseruation may to this purpose best dispose of their iournies which all other men may fit to their endes and purposes First let them passe out of Normandy to Rhye an English Hauen in Sussex then let them visit such of the fiue Kentish Ports as they please let them see Cânterbury famous for the Seate of the Metropolitan Archbishop then the Castle of Qüinborrough in the Iland of Shoppey and the Regall Nauy then let them passe by Rochester a Bishops Seate the Regall Pallace at Greenewich and Depford the Nauall storehouse and not farre thence see the broken ribbes of the ship wherein famous Sir Francis Drake compassed the World and so let them come to London When they haue viewed the Monuments of London and Westminster and seene the Kings Court they may take a cursory iourney to view such antiquities in Middlesex Surry and Barkshire as vpon the reading of Camden they shall most desire to see and especially all or the chiefe Pallaces of the King Againe from London they may take a cursory iourney to see the Vniuersity of Oxford and so by Worcester returne to London In their iourney to the confines of England and Scotland they may see the Vniuersitie of Cambridge and view the most choise antiquities mentioned by Master Camden in Harfordshire Northamptonshire Lincolnsheire Yorkeshire Durham and Northumberland My selfe vpon occasion of businesse in the month of Aprill and the yeere 1598 tooke a iourney to these said confines namely to Barwick a Towne then very strongly fortified by the English to restraine the sudden incursions of the Scots and abounding with all things necessary for food yea with many dainties as Salmons and all kindes of shell-fish so plentifully as they were sold for very small prices And here I found that for the lending of sixtie pound there wanted not good Citizens who would giue the lender a faire chamber and good dyet as long as he would lend them the mony Being to returne from Barwicke I had an earnest desire first to see the King of Scots Court So from hence I rode in one day fortie miles to Edenborrow the chiefe Citie of that Kingdome And in this said daies iourney after foure miles riding I came to Aton a Village where the Lord of Hames dwelles whose Family was powerfull in those parts After sixteene miles more I came to Dunbar which they said to haue been of old a Towne of some importance but then it lay ruined and seemed of little moment as well for the pouertie as the small number of inhabitants After the riding of eight miles more on the left hand towards the West and something out of the high way the pleasant Village Hadrington lay which the English in the raigne of Queene Elizabeth tooke and kept against the French who drawne ouer in the time of faction kept the Towne of Dunbar and fortified the same When I had ridden fiue miles further I came to the ancient and according to the building of that Kingdome stately Pallace of the L. Seton beautified with faire Orchards and Gardens and for that clime pleasant Not farre thence lyes the Village Preston-graung belonging to the Family of the Cars powerfull from these parts to the very borders of England within land After I had ridden three miles more I came to the Village Fisherawe neere which beyond a Brooke lyes the Village Musselborow in a stony soyle famous for a great Victorie of the English against the Scots On the left hand towards the West and something out of the high way the Queene of Scots then kept her Court in the absence of the King at the Village Dawkeith in a Pallace belonging to the Earle of Murray From the said Village Fishrawe I rode the rest of the way being foure miles and so in one dayes iourney as I said came to Edenborow seated in Lodouey of old called Fictland the most ciuill Region of Scotland being hilly and fruitfull of corne but hauing little or no wood This City is the seat of the King of Scotland and the Courts of Iustice are held in the same Of old according to the changeable fortune of warre it was sometimes in the possession of the Scots sometimes of the English inhabiting this Easterne part of Scotland till the English Kingdome being shaken with the inuasions of the Danes at last about the yeere 960. it became wholly in the power of the Scots This City is high seated in a fruitfull soyle and wholsome aire and is adorned with many Noblemens Towers lying about it and aboundeth with many springs of sweet waters At the end towards the East is the Kings Pallace ioyning to the Monastery of the Holy Crosse which King Dauid the first built ouer which in a Parke of Hares Conies and Deare an high mountaine hangs called the chaire of Arthur of Arthur the Prince of the Britanes whose monuments famous among all Ballad-makers are for the most part to be found on these borders of England and Scotland From the Kings Pallace at the East the City still riseth
higher and higher towards the West and consists especially of one broad and very faire street which is the greatest part and sole ornament thereof the rest of the side streetes and allies being of poore building and inhabited with very poore people and this length from the East to the West is about a mile whereas the bredth of the City from the North to the South is narrow and cannot be halfe a mile At the furthest end towards the West is a very strong Castle which the Scots hold vnexpugnable Camden saith this Castle was of old called by the Britaines Castle meyned agnea by the Scots The Castle of the Maids or Virgines of certaine Virgines kept there for the Kings of the Picts and by Ptolomy the winged Castle And from this Castle towards the West is a most steepe Rocke pointed on the highest top out of which this Castle is cut But on the North South sides without the wals lie plaine and fruitfull fields of Corne. In the midst of the foresaid faire streete the Cathedrall Church is built which is large and lightsome but little stately for the building and nothing at all for the beauty and ornament In this Church the Kings seate is built some few staires high of wood and leaning vpon the pillar next to the Pulpit And opposite to the same is another seat very like it in which the incontinent vse to stand and doe pennance and some few weekes past a Gentleman being a stranger and taking it for a place wherein Men of better quality vsed to sit boldly entred the same in Sermon time till he was driuen away with the profuse laughter of the common sort to the disturbance of the whole Congregation The houses are built of vnpolished stone and in the faire streete good part of them is of free stone which in that broade streete would make a faire shew but that the outsides of them are faced with wooden galleries built vpon the second story of the houses yet these galleries giue the owners a faire and pleasant prospect into the said faire and broad street when they sit or stand in the same The wals of the City are built of little and vnpolished stones and seeme ancient but are very narrow and in some places exceeding low in other ruiued From Edenborow there is a ditch of water yet not running from the Inland but rising ofsprings which is carried to Lethe and so to the Sea Lethe is seated vpon a creek of the Sea called the Frith some mile from Edenborow and hath a most commodious and large Hauen When Monsieur Dessy a Frenchman did fortifie Lethe for the strength of Edenborow it began of a base Village to grow to a Towne And when the French King Francis the second had married Mary Queene of the Scots againe the French who now had in hope deuoured the possession of that Kingdome and in the yeere 1560. began to aime at the conquest of England more strongly fortified this Towne of Lethe but Elizabeth Queene of England called to the succour of the Lords of Scotland against these Frenchmen called in by the Queene soone effected that the French returned into their Countrey and these fortifications were demolished Erom Leth I crossed ouer the Frith which ebs and flowes as high as Striuelin to the Village King-korn being eight miles distant and seated in the Region or Country called Fife which is a Peninsule that is almost an Iland lying betweene two creekes of the Sea called Frith and Taye and the Land yeelds corne and pasture and seacoales as the Seas no lesse plentifully yeeld among other fish store of oysters shel fishes and this Countrey is populous and full of Noblemens and Gentlemens dwellings commonly compassed with little groues though trees are so rare in those parts as I remember not to haue seene one wood From the said Village King-korn I rode ten very long miles to Falkeland then the Kings House for hunting but of old belonging to the Earles of Fife where I did gladly see I ames the sixth King of the Scots at that time lying there to follow the pastimes of hunting and hawking for which this ground is much commended but the Pallace was of old building and almost ready to fall hauing nothing in it remarkeable I thought to haue ridden from hence to Saint Andrewes a City seated in Fife and well known as an Vniuersity and the seate of the Archbishop But this iourney being hindred I wil onely say that the Bishop of Saint Andrewes at the intercession of the King of Scotland Iames the third was by the Pope first made Primate of all Scotland the same Bishop and all other Bishops of that Kingdome hauing formerly to that day beene consecrated and confirmed by the Archbishop of Yorke in England Likewise I purposed to take my iourney as farre as Striuelin where the King of the Scots hath a strong Castle built vpon the front of a steepe Rocke which King Iames the sixth since adorned with many buildings and the same hath for long time beene committed to the keeping of the Lords of Eriskin who likewise vse to haue the keeping of the Prince of Scotland being vnder yeeres And from thence I purposed to returne to Edenborow but some occasions of vnexpected businesse recalled me speedily into England so as I returned presently to Edenborow and thence to Barwicke the same way I came I adde for passengers instruction that they who desire to visit the other Counties of England and Ireland may passe from Edenborow to Carlile chiefe City of Comberland in England and so betweene the East parts of Lancashire and the West parts of Yorke and then through Darbyshire Nottinghamshire Warwickeshire Staffordshire and Chesshire may take their iourney to the City Westchester whence they shall haue commodity to passe the Sea to Dablin in Ireland and while they expect this passage they may make a cursory iourney into Flintshire and Caernaruenshire in Northwales to see the antiquities thereof or otherwise may goe directly to Holy Head and thence make a shorter cut to Dublyn in Ireland From Dublyn they may passe to see the Cities of the Prouince Mounster whence they may commodiously passe to the South parts of Wales and there especially see the antiquities of Merlyn and so taking their iourney to the West parts of England may search the antiquities of these seuerall Counties and easily find commoditie to passeinto the West parts of France And all this circuit beginning at London may with ordinary fauourable winds according to the season of the yeere be easily made from the beginning of March to the end of September Alwaies I professe onely to prescribe this course to such as are curious to search all the famous monuments and antiquities of England mentioned in Camdens compleat description thereof CHAP. VI. Of the manner to exchange Moneys into forraine parts and the diuers moneys of diuers parts together with the diuers measures of miles in sundry Nations most necessary
Lord Deputies discretion But their Lordships aduised warily to obserue and know such as offered submission because it had alwaies been the Arch-traitors practise to let slip such as he could not defend that they might saue their goods and liue vpon her Maiestie without any intent to doe her seruice Lastly whereas the Lord of Dunkellin by his letters in regard of some restrictions whereby hee was disabled to serue her Maiestie as he desired had made offer to resigne the gouernement he had in the Prouince of Connaght And forasmuch as the Queene was alwaies vnwilling to imploy any great Lord in his owne Countrie yet finding him placed in that gouernement by the Earle of Essex had still continued him there only out of her speciall fauor to him And for that of late some insolencies had bin offered to Companies of the English by the old Earle of Clanrieards soldiers in her Maiesties pay Their Lordships signified that the Queenes pleasure was to accept the Lord of Dunkellins resignation in the fairest maner and withall carefull tendering of his honour aduising the Lord Deputie to inuite him to accompany his Lordship and serue in the Army vnder him And Sir Arthur Sauage then a Colonel of the Army and lying with his Company at Athlone was appointed prouisionall Gouernour of the Prouince of Connaght except the Lord Deputie knew some sufficient cause to the contrary The Lord Deputy hauing attained his end of drawing the Army into the North by the safe landing and setling of Loughfoyle Garrison in the farthest North of Ireland on Tyrones backe His Lordship the twentie eight of May hearing that Tyrone had drawne backe his men two miles further into the fastnesse and being informed that the Pace of the Moyrye by reason of much wet lately fallen and the Rebels breaking of the causey was hard to passe returned by Carlingford pace to Dundalke and so to Dublin where he vnderstood that the Rebels had in his absence burned the Pale though he left for defence of it 2000 foot and 175 horse in Lemster but the damage was not answerable to the clamour for many priuate men haue in England sustained greater losse by casuall fire in time of peace then the whole Pale had done by the enemies burning in warre and many priuate men in England haue in one yeere lost more cattel by a rot then the Pale lost by this spoyling of the rebels of which they lamentably complained Besides that indeede this burning and spoyling of the very Pale did further the greatest end of finishing the warres no way so likely to be brought to an end as by a generall famine Giue me leaue to digresse a little to one of the fatall periods of Robert the noble Earle of Essex his tragedy and the last but one which was his death whereof the following relation was sent into Ireland The fifth of Iune there assembled at Yorke-house in London about the hearing of my Lord of Essex his cause eighteene Commissioners viz. my Lord of Canterburie Lord Keeper Lord Treasurer Lord Admi Lords of Worcester Shrewsbury Cumberland Huntington Darby Zouch Mast. Comptroller Master Secretarie Sir Ihon Fortescu Lord Popham Chiefe Iustice Lord Anderson Chiefe Iustice of the common Pleas Lord Perian Chiefe Baron of the Exchequer Iustices Gaudy and Walmesley They sate from eight of the clock in the morning till very neere nine at night all at a long table in chaires At the Earles comming in none of the Commissioners stirred cap or gaue any signe of curtesie He kneeled at the vpper end of the Table and a good while without a cushion At length my Lord of Canterbury moued my Lord Treasurer and they ioyntly my Lord Keeper and Lord Admirall that sat ouer against them then was he permitted a cushion yet still was suffered to kneele till the Queenes Sergeants speech was ended when by the consent of the Lords he was permitted to stand vp and after vpon my Lord of Canterburies motion to haue a stoole The manner of proceeding was this My Lord Keeper first deliuered the cause of the assembly and then willed the Queenes Counsaile at Law viz Sergeant Attorney Solicitor and Master Bacon to informe against him The Sergeant began and his speech was not long onely a preface as it were to the accusations The summe of it was to declare the Queenes Princely care and prouision for the warres of Ireland and also her gratious dealing with the Earle before he went in discharging ten thousand pound of his debts and giuing him almost so much more to buy him horses and prouide himself and especially in her proceedings in this cause when as after so great occasion of offence as the consumption of a royall Army fruitlesse wasting thirty hundred thousand 〈◊〉 treasure contempt and disobedience to her expresse commandement she notwithstanding was content to be so mercifull towards him as not to proceede against him in any of her Courts of Iustice but only in this priuate sort by way of mercy and fauour After him the Attorney began whose speech contained the body and substance of the accusation it was very sharp stinging for besides the man faults of contempt and disobedience where with hee charged him he did also shrewdly inferre a dangerous disposition and purpose which was by many rhetoricall amplifications agrauated to the full he diuided his speech into three parts Quomodo ingressus Quomodo progressus Quomodo regressus In the ingresse hee obserued how large a Commission he stood vpon such a one as neuer any man had the like before namely that he might haue authoritie to pardon all Traytors of himselfe yea to pardon treason committed against her Maiesties owne person and that he might mannage the warres by himself without being tied to the aduice of the Counsell of Ireland which clause hee said was granted that he might at first proceede in the Northerne iourny which the Counsell of Ireland whose lands and liuings lay in the South might perhaps hinder and labor to diuert him to the safeguard of themselues In the other two parts of his speech were contained fiue speciall crimes wherwith the Earle was charged viz. His making the Earle of Southampton Generall of the Horse 2. His going to Lemster and Mounster when he should haue gone to Vlster 3. His making so many Knights 4. His conference with Tyrone 5. His returne out of Ireland contrary to her Maiesties command These all sauing the fourth were recited by the Lords in their censures as the crimes for which he was censured by them The first was amplified for that he did it contrary to her Maiesties mind plainely signified vnto him in England that hee increased that offence by continuing him in that office stil when her Maiesty by letters had expressely commanded him to displace him and thirdly for that he wrote a very bold presumptuous letter to her Maiesty in excuse of that offence which letter was afterwards read The second point of his Southerne iourny was agrauated
doe her fome acceptable seruice in recompence of his transgression in the same protesting to serue her Maiesty against all men either of Ireland or forraigners that shall endeauour the disturbance of this Countrey That he shall put into her Maiesties hands his eldest sonne for the assurance of his future loyalty and foure principall gentlemen of his blood as hee formerly promised That hee shall at his charge find workemen to build such Forts in the County of Tyrone and in such places as the Lord Deputy shall thinke fit That he shall permit throughout Tyrone her Maiesties Officers of Iustice as the Sheriffes and others to haue free liberty to execute their Offices as is accustomed in other Prouinces and Counties of the Realme and answere all other duties formerly agreed vpon That he shall onely vndertake for himselfe and his pledges to lie for no more then those that dwell vpon that land onely that is contained in his Letters Pattents not any way vndertaking for the rest of Tyrone as Turlogh Brassiloes sonnes Mac Mahound O Cane Macgenis Macguire the two Clandeboyes and all of the East side of the Ban. That if any of his neighbours shall continue in rebellion none of their people shall be harboured in Tyrone and likewise that none of Tyrone shall by his consent or knowledge succour any Rebell or giue assistance to them and if any such offender shall happen to be discouered either by himselfe or any other her Maiesties Officers vpon knowledge thereof that hee shall doe his best endeuour to prosecute the parties offending and either take them whereby they may be tried by the lawes of the Realme or kill them if they may not otherwise bee had and shall assist her Maiesties Officers in taking to her vse the goods and chattels of the offenders and their retinues That he shall not onely truely pay all her Maiesties rents and duties from this time forward due vnto her out of Tyrone but also pay the arrerages that for many yeeres haue beene by him detained That in respect of the great charges that he hath put her Maiesty vnto although it be not the thousand part of her disbursements In nomine pene which in all such great offences is accustomed towards the victualing of her Maiesties garrisons he shall pay two thousand Cowes within sixe moneths That the County of Tyrone may bee limited and no more by him to be possessed then is contained in his Letters Pattents That the territory of Tyrone may be diuided into shires and haue gaoles as he hath formerly desired That he put at liberty the sonnes of Shane O Neale and all other prisoners English and Irish. These things you shall onely propound as from your selfe yet as conceiuing that they will be demanded at his hands if he be receiued and to draw as large an ouerture from him of what he will agree vnto as you can perswade him telling him that the greater assurance he doth giue the state of his loyalty the greater will be his safety for we shall conster his good meaning by his free offer thereof and after we shall haue the lesse reason to be lealous of him The fifteenth of February the Lord Deputy and Counsell here wrote to the Lords in England this following letter MAy it please your Lordships The foureteenth of this last moneth we disparched Sir Richard Moryson with our letters to your Lordships from this place and the nine and twentieth we wrote againe by Captaine Butler yet to this day the wind nath continued still so Westerly as since the departure of Sir Richard no shipping is 〈◊〉 to vs either out of England from your Lordships as we desired or from Waterford Wexford and those parts as we directed to carry away the Spaniards hence nor yet vntil sunday the seuenth hereof could those ships stirre that lay ready at Kinsale to be sent to Baltimore Castle Hauen and Beere Hauen but now they are gone we hope that the seruice to be done by them which is the possessing of the Castles and sending away the Spaniards in them will be presently accomplished although the wind hath serued them so scantly as wee feare they will hardly recouer all the places whereunto they are directed There is onely one Scottish ship gone from Kinsale for Spaine which carried one hundred sixety Spaniards with part of the Artillery but there lies now ready at the Harbour for the first wind so much shipping as will carry away one thousand fiue hundred more so as there will bee yet remaining in Kinsale aboue one thousand Spaniards which with the first shipping that comes from the other Ports shall be imbarked Don Iean staies to goe last It appeareth by some letters intercepted which wee send herewithall vnto your Lordships that the King of Spaine purposeth to send a larger supply hither with all expedition Don Iean assures vs to doe his best to stay them and if he arriue first in Spaine he makes no doubt to disswade their comming but if they should come before his departure he promiseth to returne them according to his couenant in the contract if they doe not come vnder the command of some other that hath a commission a part from his from the King The Irish haue of late receiued letters from Odonnell to encourage the Rebels to perseuer in their rebellion assuring them of present aide from Spaine in the meane time the best of them all doe but temporize being ready to assist them when they come especially if they come in any strength as it is to bee thought in all reason they will hauing found their first errour Her Maiesty must therefore be pleased to be at some charge to erect fortifications at Beere Hauen Kinsale and this place the commodities and weakenesse of these places being as well knowne to the Spaniards as to vs and further with all speed to erect Cittadels at Lymbrick Corke and Waterford though it bee onely to assure the Townes from reuolt It appeareth by the King of Spaines letter and so by the Duke of 〈◊〉 that his heart is very much set vpon the enterprize of Ireland and therefore it is not vnlike but that he may send more supplies after or before Don Ieans arriuall in Spaine either vnder him or some other Commander which if hee doe it is also likely the same will be sent shortly For preuention thereof if in your Lordships wisdome it shall be thought meet we doe humbly beseech that the foure thousand supplies heretofore desired and by your Lordships intended may bee presently sent hither whereof two thousand to be erected into companies and their Captaines to be named here and the other 2000 for supplies of the Army which is exceeding weake for our men die daily in greater numbers then they died in the camp the infection being greater and by some thought a kinde of plague for the people in the Townes die in farre greater numbers then the souldiers though we hope the contrary And wee doe further desire
intended to lie in such places as without great conuoyes he might put vp victuals for this purpose meaning to imploy the time in assuring or wasting all the Countries betwixt Blackwater and the Pale And with this purpose he marched back towards Monaghan and in the way taking some Ilands and strong places though in those and all the former seruices we had not lost fiue men of the Armie yet we had the disaster by a casuall shot out of one of the Ilands to leese Sir Iohn Barkley a worthy Gentleman and Serieant Maior of the Army and in another slight skirmish to leese Capt. Willis Vpon the death of Sir Iohn Barkley his L P made Sir Henry Dauers Serieant Maior in his place and comming into Monaghan his L P on the 19 of Iuly aduertised the Lords in England of the former seruices as also that hee had directed Sir Henry Dockwra and Sir Arthur Chichester that in case any new Spanish forces should land in Ireland they should draw vnto him with their principall forces yet leaue the Garrisons defensible as bridles to the submitted late rebels and a diuersion to the rest remaining in rebellion That howsoeuer the numbers of those Garrisons seemed to threaten the continuance of her Maiesties charge yet it was the most sure way to lessen the Army and end the warre in short time which onely forraigne inuasion could hinder in which case it would be no longer the warre of Ireland but the warre of England in Ireland and would require as royall supplies as if a part of England were inuaded by so mighty a Prince That the Garrisons vpon Tirone were left so strong in numbers as that euery of them a part might without apparant hazard not onely withstand all the Force wherewith Tyrone was able in any one place to make head against them but bee stirring with some parties to seeke out him and his Creaghts in their Fastnesses and to keepe them from feeding or stirring vpon the Plaine which must necessarily vndoe the rebels and this effect of the Summers seruice would appeare in the next winter For if in the meane time it were not his Lordships hap according to his earnest endeuour to get Tyrones head which was a worke of difficultie not to be hoped in so short a time yet he was confident to cut off so many of his members as he should not bee able to continue in any one place but should bee forced to flie from bush to bush like a Wood-kerne as now hee did so long as the Army kept the field which being dissolued hee would soone grow to strength againe except the Garrisons were kept strong so as he might not dare to appeare himselfe or to feede his Creaghts vpon the Plaine which could not be performed without hauing great store of victuals to maintaine the Garrisons That for the matter of fortifications whereas their Lordships noted the summes demanded to bee excessiue this demand proceeded from a zeale to secure the Kingdome speedily and by entring into a Royall charge at once to cut off her Maiesties continuing charge which being now aboue three hundred thousand pound yeerely it seemed good husbandry if by bestowing one hundred thousand pound at once especially in the new mixed coyne her Maiesty might both secure the Kingdome against forraigne inuasion and so bridle the Townes and Countrie as halfe the said yeerely charge might be presently saued and yet the Army might be drawne stronger into the field then now it could bee for it would be lesse charge to her Maiestie to keepe twenty men in a Castle costing fiue hundred pound the building then to keepe one hundred men in a Fort built for one hundred pound yet that hee would conforme himselfe to her Maiesties pleasure in that point imploying the money allowed to the best he possibly could That whereas hee the Deputie had moued that the Captaines might prouide clothes for their companies now vpon better consideration hee thought the old course of clothing them by the Merchants was of necessitie to be continued That touching Neale Garue his Lordship found him to bee of nature fierie and violent and with all extremely both proud and couetous and as Sir Henrie Dockwra had very well described him to their Lordships to bee in his desires and demaunds most vnreasonable and almost intollerable so as he that must containe him within any fitting bounds especially whē he shuld be denied any thing that he affects was enioyned to doe any thing that he did not like must be of an infinite patience for at such times he vsed to breake out in a fashion most hardly to bee indured although his Lordship professed that he tooke it rather to bee want of breeding and of knowledge to discerne when he hath good vsage and when hard for through that defect he still thought himselfe wronged and out of that conceit grew to that distemper then any want of good affection to the State For Sir Henry Dockwra did acknowledge that vpon all occasions of seruice that had not appeared euidently to preiudice him in him particular he shewed himselfe forward and very ready to the hazarding of his owne person very often In which respect his Lordship holding him worth the cherishing being besides well followed by all his Country so as her Maiesties seruice receiued very great furtherance both by him and them was therefore resolued according to her Maiesties warrant lately receiued to passe him the grant of his Country His Lordship further wrote that he receiued many aduertisements that the Spaniards were ready to returne into Ireland which though he for his part beleeued not in regard their Lordships thought the contrary yet the people here by many letters from their friends in Spaine were made confident that they would make a new and strong inuasion before Michaelmas day at the furthest That in this regard he made haste to draw the warre to some good end no way so well to bee done as by planting strong Garrisons vpon Tirone and by drawing from him his strongest partakers to which purpose he had sent Sir Henrie Folliot to gouerne the Garrison lately planted at Ballishannon who had instructions to receiue Mac Guyre to mercy vpon condition he would be content to haue his Country diuided betweene O Connor Roe and himselfe and would deliuer to her Maiesties vse the Castle of Eniskillin with the Ordinance therein His L p further signified that when the Garrison of Ballishannon had effected the intended seruice he would leaue it as a Warde this same and all other fortifications being so made as one smal Fort of very good strength was first framed guardable by a few to which was added a greater Fort of lesse strength charge like to a bawne or yard wherein many vpon occasion might be lodged so as if at any time one Company were found sufficient the rest being drawne away the losse of the bigger Fort being commanded by the lesser would be of little moment and yet might
bee kept fit to receiue greater numbers if it were thought fit to send them againe at any time Adding that if the Queene would be pleased to build a little Castle in euery one of the lesser Forts it would greatly lessen her Maiesties charge in the numbers of men and yet be sufficient perpetually to bridle the Irish. The nine and twentieth of Iuly the Lord Deputie being in Monaghan receiued letters from Sir George Carew Lord President of Mounster by the hands of Sir Samuel Bagnol whom the Lord Deputie had sent into Mounster to bring from thence fifteene hundred foote which accordingly hee had performed These letters aduertised certaine expectation of the Spaniards present inuading Mounster with great forces able to keepe the field without any support from the Irish Rebels which expectation was grounded vpon the confessions of many comming out of Spaine and by diuers letters sent from thence by the Irish but especially was confirmed by the arriuall of a Spanish ship at Ardea bringing a good proportion of munition to Oswillyuan Beare Captaine Tyrrell and other Rebels in Mounster together with a good summe of money to be distributed among them for their incouragement to hold out in rebellion till the Spanish succours should arriue And the Lord President signified his feare of a generall defection vpon the Spaniards first arriuall which hee gathered from the confidence of all the Rebels in that Prouince who hauing before sought for mercy in all humblenesse and with promise to merit it by seruice now since the Spanish ship arriued were growne proud calling the King of Spaine their King and their ceasing from rebellion to be the betraying of their King and of the Catholike cause yea sell nothing from this insolency though they had bin some times beaten by him many of their chiefe men killed and had lost the strong Castle of Dunboy And the twentieth of Iuly the Lord President aduertised new intelligences of Spanish forces in great numbers lying ready at the Groyne either to bee sent for Ireland or the Low Countries whereof 2000 being horse there was no probabilitie that they should bee sent by sea for the Low Countries since they might more conueniently bee raised in these parts Wherefore hee resolutely beleeuing they were intended for Ireland desired 〈◊〉 for speede of intelligences a running Post might againe be established betwene Corke and Dublin The Lord Deputie by this time had planted a Garrison in Monaghan wherein hee left for the present Sir Christopher S. Laurence with his 25 horse and 150 foote and vnder him Captaine Esmond with his foote one hundred fifty This Garrison lay fitly to secure the Pale from Northerne incursions and to prosecute those Rebels which were like to stand out longest This done his Lordship tooke burned and spoiled all the Ilands in those parts of greatest strength placing wards in some of them And finding Mac Mahown chiefe of Monaghan to stand vpod proud termes though otherwise making sute to bee receiued to mercy his Lordship spoiled and ransacked all that Countrie and by example thereof brought many Chiefes of adioyning Countries to submit to mercy with as good shew of dutie and obedience as could bee desired and more strict othes and pledges then had formerly been required So as now from the Bann to the Dartcy including all Tyrone and from thence to Dublin the whole Country was cleared and the chiefe Lords more assured then they were euer before His Lordship placed Connor Roe Mac Guyre to whom her Maiesty had lately giuen the Chiefery of Fermannagh in the principall house of Mac Mahown Chiefe of Monaghan lying within two miles of Fermannagh so as he might from thence easily plant and settle himselfe in his owne Country and so bee able to doe her Maiesty many good seruices in those parts This done his Lordship returned to the Newry meaning there for a short time to refresh his wearied forces The 29 of Iuly his Lordship and the Counsell with him made to the Lords in England a relation of the past seruices which for breuity I omit and wrote further as followeth Vpon such bruites as we heare of a new inuasion out of Spaine the L. President in a manner assuring vs that they will in that Prouince inuade presently with a strong Army of 15000 foot and 2000 horse we are much distracted what next to do for if we should draw that way to prouide to entertaine them wee should loose the aduantage of this prosecution and spend another yeere vnprofitably which wee grieue to thinke vpon and yet perhaps misse of their place of landing If we proceede as we yet intend to draw this warre to a speedy end which is that which we acknowledge we do more effect we shall bee the lesse able to make that defensiue stoppe to their inuasion that wee might if we attended that businesse onely We do therefore most humbly and earnestly desire to be directed from your Lordships who in likelihood best know the Spaniards intentions which of these courses we should most apply our selues vnto otherwise we are resolued whatsoeuer befall to prosecute the warre Northward with all earnestnesse out of the desire wee haue to draw the warre to an end and ease her Maiestie of that excessiue charge which to our exceeding griefe we obserue her to be at which we doubt not to effect to her great contentment and ease her Maiestie speedily of a great part of her charge if we be not interrupted by the Spaniard for besides the good hold we haue gotten of those that haue a ready submitted themselues which by all arguments of sound and sincere meaning in them we tooke to be better and more assured then any that was taken heretofore since her Maiestie and her Ancesters enioyed this Kingdome especially with the holds that we haue planted among them wee haue set downe such a plot for the prosecution of the rest vpon all hands at one instant so soone as wee take the field next which is agreed vpon the tenth of the next moneth till which time wee haue thought fit to refresh this Army ouertoiled wearied out with continuall working vpon the Forts that we haue made and with exceeding great marches which we were driuen to for lacke of meanes to carrie victuals with vs for a longer time as we are very confident we shall in short time ruine or subdue all these rebels For we haue left no man in all the North that is able to make any very great resistance or that hath not made meanes to bee receiued to mercy O Rourke onely excepted who hitherto hath been furthest off from feeling the furie of our prosecution Tyrone is alreadie beaten out of his Countrie and liues in a part of O Canes a place of incredible fastnesse where though it be impossible to doe him any great hurt so long as hee shall bee able to keepe any force about him the wales to him being vnaccessible with an Army yet by lying about him as we
great Army is intended then that I meane to contest against the contrarie opinions which are here continually multiplied from thence of the great Armies the King of Spaine amasseth to hinder any preparations which may come from hence whereby that Kingdome may receiue any comfort First because I know the very bruite of Leuies here must needes giue helpe to your proceedings next because I know what a folly it is in cases which concerne a Kingdome to disswade any manner of supplies whereof the lacke may proue perillous especially in this State which is so exhausted by that warre of Ireland onely as it is an easie worke to diuert all actions of charge especially whensoeuer they may thinke to secure their opinions by maintaining those grounds to which I should incline to whose place it principally belongeth to giue best iudgement of forraigne intelligences I will onely therefore conclude with this I am sorry to finde my Soueraignes heart so great and magnanimous though I must confesse she hath very iust cause as not to be contented to haue made vertue of necessity and by her pardon of the greatest Rebell to haue dissolued the strength of the combination which being still vnited with mindes of dispaire will multiple still alienation whereof so potentan enemie as is the King of Spaine will euer make his benefit where I am of opinion that if hee were sure to bee pardoned and liue in any securitie with the qualitie of any greatnesse such is his wearinesse of his miserie and so of all the rest as hee would bee made one of the best instruments in that Kingdome But I haue now gone on too farre sauing that I am apt to take all occasions to exchange my thoughts with you by letters praying Almightie God so to blesse your endeuours as we may more enioy each others company for the good of her Maiesties Ieruice And so I commit you to Gods protection From the Court at Hisham this seuenth of August 1602 Your Lordships louing and assured friend to command Ro. Cecyll The Lord Deputie spent some fiue dayes about Tullough Oge where the Oneales were of old custome created and there he spoiled the Corne of all the Countrie and Tyrones owne Corne and brake downe the chaire wherein the Oneales were wont to be created being of stone planted in the open field Sir Henrie Dockwra onely with some horse with him did meete the Lord Deputy here vpon the thirtieth of August and brought with him Ocane a late Submittie hauing left the English foote at the Omy where in like sort were the most part of O Canes and young O Donnells horse and foote victualed at their owne charge and ready to attend any seruice the Lord Deputy should command them The same day his Lordship vnderstood that Sir Arthur Chichester was comming towards him by Killetro and that Randoll Mac Sorley had offered him to serue the Queene in that iourny with fiue hundred foote and fortie horse vpon his owne charge Whereupon the Lord Deputie resolued to march with the Army to Dunnamore and thence to the Agher and in the second daies march vpon the sixth of September his Lordship receiued letters from the Lord President of Mounster that foure and twentie Spanish ships were bruited to be arriued at Beere-hauen which newes though his L P kept secret yet the whole Countrie was presently ful of it and from al parts he receiued the like alarums insomuch as amongst the Irish it was constantly beleeued that some Spanish ships were arriued at Carlingford Notwithstanding his Lordship left a Garison at the Agher being a Castle seated in an Iland and he intrenched a large piece of ground for greater forces when Sir Henrie Dockwra should draw them thither vpon any seruice and from that Castle his Lordship brought away two brasse pieces Tyrone Brian Mac Art Mac Mahownd and Cormack Mac Barron were fled into the bottome of a great Fastnesse towards the end of Lough Erne whom his Lordship followed as farre as hee could possibly carry the Army yet came not within twelue miles of them besides they had a way from thence into Orurkes Country to which the Army could not passe Mac Guyre had lately left them and receiued the Queenes protection from Sir Henrie Foliott vpon condition to put in good pledges for his loialty and to giue Oconnor Roc Mac Guyre the land belonging to him and to build vp the Castle of Eniskellin which he lately brake downe deliuering the same built at his owne charge into the Queenes possession and Tyrone and his abouenamed confederaies were all poore and all the Rebels following them were not aboue sixe hundred foote and sixtie horse Vpon the seuenth of September his Lordship vnderstood by letters from Sir Oliuer Lambert that he was called back from the prosecution of Orurke by like newes of the Spaniards arriuall The same day his Lordship sent backe Sir Henrie Dockwra and directed him to draw most of his forces with as much victuals as he could put vp to the Omy and from thence to the Agher being twelue miles distant faire way there to be rendent and to make the warre till haruest were past being alwaies ready to follow his Lordships further directions vpon any landing of Spaniards Likewise the next day his Lordship sent backe Sir Arthur Chichester directing him to lie at Mountioy Garrison clearing the Country of Tyrone of all inhabitants and to spoile all the Corne which he could not preserue for the Garrisons and to desace al the Ilands formerly taken being ready to draw vpon the Rebels if they should make any head yet with aduile to bee likewise readie to answere any new directions if the Spaniards should arriue So his Lordship marched backe with his Army and vpon the ninth of September diuided all the waste land on the Southside of Blackwater towards the Newry betweene Hen. Mac Shane and Con Mac Shane sons to Shane O Neale only with leaue to liue there with their Creaghts and such followers as should come vnto them till her Maiesties pleasure were further knowne and inioyning them to sow their Corne for the next yeere vpon the Plaines Thus his Lordship bringing backe with him into the Pale fourteene Companies of foote and one hundred horse came to the Newrie the eleuenth of September and the next day in his and the Counsels letters to the Lords in England after the relation of the former seruices wrote as followeth We haue taken the best pledges we could of such as are become subiects al of them haue assisted vs with Cowes most of them with carriages with men and with their owne presence so as if forraigne forces doe not arriue we make no doubt of them nor to bring the rest to what termes shall bee fittest for her Maiesties Honour and profit Wee haue thought fit to suffer most of the Natiues of Tyrone the rest being put ouer the Riuer of the Bann to follow Henry and Gon Mac Shane and perchance many of them
the horses of our English troopes and they dying thereupon to bee readie to teare out one anothers throate for a share of them And no spectacle was more frequent in the Ditches of Townes and especiallie in wasted Countries then to see multitudes of these poore people dead with their mouthes all coloured greene by eating nettles docks and all things they could rend vp aboue ground These and very many like lamentable effects followed their rebellion and no doubt the Rebels had been vtterly destroyed by famine had not a generall peace shortly followed Tyrones submission besides mercy formerly extended to many others by which the Rebels had liberty to seeke reliefe among the subiects of Ireland and to be transported into England and France where great multitudes of them liued for some yeeres after the peace made The fourth of March the Lord Deputy receiued letters from Sir Henry Dockwra aduertising many vehement suspitions of Sir Neale Garues disloial purposes namely his vnderhand putting Mac Swyne to goe againe into rebellion and to take an Iland of his which was a fit place to set vp a new rebellion and also his making a storchouse of Armes with extraordinary prouisions of them Further he aduertised that himself vsed all meanes to keepe Tyrone in the Glynnes where hee now was till his Lordship came vp which iourney he aduised to bee in the beginning of the next moneth but vnderstanding that within few daies hee would remoue towards Fermanagh howsoeuer the English there at that time were weake yet he would lye for the Arch-rebel on his way to Omy or Agher not doubting but in the passage of those Plaines hee should haue some opportunity of fighting with him and at the least to take good part of his prey from him Lastly he aduertised that he had razed Hen. Ouingtons Castle and Mac Hugbes Iland which both had been neasts and starting holes for theeues The fifteenth of March the Lord Deputy left Dublin and rode towards the Northerne borders where his Lordship with his rotinue lay to and fro the remaining few dayes of this yeere and part of the beginning of the next till Tyrone was receiued to mercy and the war ended to the end his Lordship being in those parts might giue life to the present seruice as wel of the forces sent to prosecute Ororke as of the Garrisons lying in waite for all aduantages vpon Tyrone himselfe and his broken partakers Touching Mounster affaires in the yeere 1602 the Lord Deputy at his comming frō Corke caused Sir Ric. Percy to be sworne Counsellor for the Prouince of Mounster and in his iournall towards Cillkenny Knighted three Irish men Iohn Fitz Edmonds and two Citizens of Watterford Edward Gough and Richard Aylward The Lord President at Killkenny tooke his leaue of the Lord Deputy and making short Iourneys by reason he was sickly came not to Corke till the third of Aprill 1602. When the Spaniards by composition were to render the Castels in the West O Swilliuan Beare had surprised his Castle of Donboy in Beerehauen from the Spaniards where of some were killed in the surprisall which freed them from suspition to haue yeelded it voluntarily contrary to the composition This strong Castle vpon an excellent hauen O Swilliuan kept for the King of Spaine hauing sixty Warders with him at first and three pieces of Spanish Ordinance The Lord President meaning to take this Castle tooke the field the 23 of Aprill and after many attempts vpon the Rebels in which some of them were killed and some taken and executed and many preyes taken by parties sent out it was resolued the fourteenth of May to passe the forces ouer to an Iland called the great Iland that way to march to Beerehauen the way thither by land being vnpassable for the victuals and carriages besides many places of aduantage in the Mountaines where the Rebels though few in number might distresse a great Army and easily forbid their passage Here by the sea side the Foote staied for the ships carrying the Victuals Munition and Ordinance which were detained by contrary winds till the last of May. The sixth of Iune the forces were ferried ouer to the land neere Castle Dermot where they incamped and though they landed in another part then the Rebels expected who lay there to hinder and impeach their landing yet the Rebels hasted to them to begin the skirmish with them when they were in good order and almost had all passed the Ferry so as the Rebels hauing no aduantage in this fight they left 28 dead in the place and had more then 30 wounded whereof Captaine Tirrel was one being slightly hurt in the belly and some were taken prisoners whereas on our part onely seuen were hurt The tenth of Iune our forces hauing landed their Ordinance incamped within musket shot of the Castle of Donboy but not within the sight of the Castle a rising ground lying betweene the Campe and the Castle so as the great shot from the Castle flew ouer the Campe without doing any hurt The twelfth a Fort within the Hand of Dorses kept by the Rebels was surprized by the English and all the Rebels killed or hanged and therein were taken three Iron Peeces of Spanish Ordinance The 17 of Iune after two daies battery the English assaulted the breach and possessed part of the Castle Dunboy the Rebels keeping and defending the rest all that day and night and great part of the next at which time the English were by force made full Masters of it The Rebels defending it were 134 selected Souldiers and all of them were killed in the Castle or seeking to flie or being prisoners were executed in the campe except twelue men of chiefe accompt and most esteemed by Tyrrell which were kept to be examined vpon torture or to worke some good for the seruice with Tyrrell by the sauing of their liues Of Spanish Ordinance there was taken one Demy Culuerin two Sakers and one Falcon of brasse and two Sakers fiue Minions and one Falcon of Iron The Gunners were Italians and Spaniards who perished with the rest nine barrels of powder taken in the Castle were imploied to blow it vp left any Spaniards or Rebels might after make vse of it This Castle taken the Lord President returned to Corke where Sir Samuell Bagnoll attended his comming with letters from the Lord Deputy and according to his Lordships directions the Lord President sent by him 1500 Foote being aboue the old Mounsterlyst who came with these Forces to the Lord Deputy the 29 of Iuly and brought letters from the Lord President aduertising the aboue mentioned confident expectation of a second Spanish inuasion At the same time Sir Edward Wingfield was landed at Corke bringing to the Lord President 500 foote for supplies of the weake Companies Sir Charles Wilmott Gouernour of Kerry wherein were many prouinciall Rebels besides 1000 strangers to helpe them had before the siege of Dunboy prosecuted Mac Morris cleered Kerry of all Rebels
before all the people of the Towne in continuall feare to be burned The Lord Deputy hauing quietly settled all the Townes and Cities in Mounster returned to Dublyn and because vpon the first settling of peace many petitions were exhibited against the late Rebels for restitution of goods which they had taken in time of rebellion and were not now able to restore so as the exacting thereof was like to produce new troubles rather then any satisfaction to the plaintiffes an authenticall act of obliuion for all like grieuances was published and sent to the Gouernours in all parts of the Kingdome In this late Mounster Iourney his Lordship receiued letters from the King whereby he was chosen to be one of his Maiesties Priuie Counsell in England and being made Lord Lieutenant of Ireland with two third parts of the Deputies allowance assigned to him was licensed to come ouer into England and had authoritie to leaue Sir George Carey the Kings Deputy during his Lordships absence hauing the other third part of the Deputies allowance and his owne entertainement as Treasurer at Warres for his support And Captaine Floyd lying now in the Harbour with the Kings Pinace called the Tramontana ready to transport him his Lordship with the Earle of Tyrone in his company together with his houshold seruants and some Knights and Gentlemen his followers tooke ship in the afternoone and the next morning early we discouered the desired land of England the weather being very saire but within one hower the skie being ouer cast with a thicke fog and we bearing all sayles we fell suddenly vpon the Skerryes an hideous great blacke Rocke where after so many dangers escaped in the warres it pleased God miraculously to deliuer vs from being cast away as it were in the very Hauen For certaine birds called Guls seeing our ship ready to rush vpon them and their desart habitation with full sayles rose crying and fluttering round about vs whereat the Gouernours of the Pinace being amazed looked out and beholding that terrible spectacle cried to the Steare-man aloofe for life which fearefull voice might haue danted him as it did most in the ship but he stoutly did his worke answering helme aboard which done the ship by force of the sterne and by the help of the tide comming in between it and the Rocke turned about with strange swiftnesse and swumme along by the Rocke so neere to it as the Beate hanging at the sterne dashed against it Neither were the most expert men in the ship for a long time free of this feare knowing that such great Rockes haue vsually small pinacles adioining to them the least whereof had beene as dangerous to vs as the maine Rocke but the ship by Gods mercifull prouidence passing on safely that day by noone we came into the Bay of Beaumarris and were set on shore by the boate The Earle of Tyrone rode from thence to London in the Lord Mountioy his company and howsoeuer his Lordships happy victory against this Traitor made him gracious in the eyes of the people yet no respect to him could containe many Weomen in those parts who had lost Husbands and Children in the Irish warres from flinging durt and stones at the Earle as he passed and from reuiling him with bitter words yea when the Earle had beene at Court and there obtaining his Maiesties direction for his pardon and performance of all conditions promised him by the Lord Mountioy was about September to returne hee durst not passe by those parts without direction to the Shiriffes to conuay him with troopes of Horse from place to place till hee were safely imbarked and put to the Sea for Ireland The Lord Mountioy comming to Court was honoured of all men and graciously receiued of the King being presently sworne one of his Maiesties priuy Counsell And for further reward of his seruices shortly after the King made him Master of the Ordinance gaue him two hundred pound yeerely old Rent of Assise out of the Exchequer and as much more out of the Dutchy to him and his heires for euer besides the Countrey of Lecale in Ireland together with other lands in the Pale there which after the decease of the Lady Mabell Countesse of Kildare were to fall to the Crowne for want of heires males of her body He had the full superintendency ouer all Irish affaires no dispatches passing to and from the Lord Deputy but through his hands as Lord Leiuetenant And his Maiestie likewise created him Earle of Deuonshire which dignity was to discend to the heires of his body lawfully begotten But it died with him and he enioyed the rest of this worldly happinesse but few yeeres For he was surprised with a burning Feuer whereof the first fit being very violent he called to him his most familiar friends and telling them that he had euer by experience and by presaging minde beene taught to repute a burning Feuer his fatall enemy desired them vpon instructions then giuen them to make his Will and then he said Let death looke neuer so vgly he would meet him smiling which he nobly performed for I neuer saw a braue spirit part more mildely from the old mansion then his did departing most peaceably after nine daies sickenesse vpon the third of Aprill in the beginning of the yeere 1606. This most worthy Lord cured Ireland from the most desperate estate in which it euer had beene and brought it to the most absolute subiection in which it had euer beene since the first Conquest thereof by our Nation Yet hee left this great worke vnperfect and subiect to relapse except his successours should finish the building whose foundation he had laied and should pollish the stones which he had onely rough hewed And because hee knew this relapse would be most dangerous hauing obserued euery rebellion in Ireland to bee more dangerous then the former and that none could be more dangerous then this last without the losse of the Kingdome therefore he was most carefull to preuent all future mischiefes To which end whatsoeuer effects his designes had sure I am that he did meditate these wholesome prciects First to establish Garrisons in the Cities of Mounster and in the renewing of their forfeited Charters to cut of many exorbitant priuiledges granted to their first English Progenitors from whom they were so degenerated as the very speaking of English was by them forbidden to their wiues and children Then by the exchanging of lands and by the disposing of the new grants of lands to be made to the Irish to draw them all to inhabit the inland Country and to plant the English vpon the hauens Sea-Coasts and Riuers Lastly because he knew all endeuours would be in vaine if Ciuill Magistrates should thinke by faire meanes without the sword to reduce the Irish to due obedience they hauing been conquered by the sword and that maxime being infallible that all Kingdomes must be preserued by the same meanes by which they were first gained
and like permanent things All the buildings haue Thrasonicall inscriptions either ingrauen or painted vpon them of the founders praise and almost of his pedegree The houses of Citizens and of the common sort are of vnpolished stone and commonly of little flints lowly built with a roofe almost lying flat without windowes and couered with tiles The Gentlemens Pallaces are most frequent and are built as well in Cities as in the Country of carued freestone and marble and most of them altogether of diuers coloured Marbles For they haue many Quarryes of marble so as the same being not farre fetcht the magnificence of their building is rather in shew then in charge to bee preferred before our buildings of polished free-stone Many of their Pallaces seeme fit to receiue a King with his Court for the stately building but not for the capacity the Italian Families being small and solitary The building of them is in such fashion as the first vpper chamber is large and as long as a gallerie fit to intertaine great companies with feastes and dancing the windowes being great and lying open to admit ayre and couered with Arras to leane vpon and hauing on the inside windowes of wood to close by night The rest of the Chambers are on each side of this Gallerie richly furnished with Hangings Beds imbrodered and sumptuous furniture and Tapestrie spread vnder feete where the chayres stand but the roomes are narrow and haue little windowes couered but not with glasse For the windowes of all Italy are couered with linnen cloth or paper onely the Citie of Venice boasts of the singularitie that the windowes thereof are commonly glazed yet so are also the windowes of some few Pallaces in other parts The Italians more willingly spend their money in building wherein they delight to haue coole chambers with open Tarrasses lying vpon waters and shades on the sides of the house where the Sunne least comes and likewise in adorning Fountaines with shade seates and images in making caues vnder the earth and water-conduits then in any earthly thing their mistresse alwaies excepted And because they cannot indure labour for their diseased ioynts or the heate of the Countrie they striue to make their staires very easie and by much compassing to raise the ground by little and little wherein they vse so great Art as in some places a horseman may with ease and almost vnsensible ascent ride vp to the top of high Towers The floares of their vpper chambers are not boarded but paued with plaster or with a matter made of lime and tiles Some Cities as Bologna Padona and others in the Dukedome of Mantua are built with arches towards the streete like Cloysters of Monasteries and how soeuer the streete is durty yet vnder them is pleasant and dry walking euen in rainy weather For other Cities the streetes whereof lie open at Rome they are paued conueniently with flints at Sienna beautifully with brickes at Florence Pistoia Lucca and Naples stately with Freestone very broad and easie Touching Tarky in the Greeke Ilands in Asia and Affricke commonly the houses are built of vnpolished stones and flint onely one roofe high and many times with arches towards the street alwaies with windowes not glased or couered but open and the floare on the top of houses is beaten plaine with plaster and compassed with a wall indented on the top some yard high And here in the open aire they eate and walke by day and lodge at night so as a man may see all his neighbours in bed about him For they are seldome some once or twice in the yeere about September troubled with raine Particularly at Ierusalem for their locks the keyes be made of wood not of Iron At Constantinople and in the Prouinces adioyning the houses are commonly of impolished stone and flint or of timber and clay plastered or of earth formed like bricke but not hardned by fier and are built some two stories high and with a roofe almost lying flat without windowes and couered with tiles much after the common building of Italy In generall the houses haue large windowes not closed with glasse or other thing but altogether open only by night to be closed with wodden windowes after the Italian manner The streetes of Constantinople are narrow raised on each side for the passage of men and women but there also narrow the middle part of the streetes being so broad as one Asse or like beast loaded may passe for they vse no Coaches or Carts The Sultans or Emperours Pallace vulgarly called Saray and by the Italians Seraglio is of some three square Courtyards built round about of Freestone and pieces of Marble with arches towards the yard like Cloysters which are paued with broad stones this Pallace hath a very spatious Garden round compassed with a stone wall Some few Pallaces of the Visiers or Bashaes in this City are built of polished Freestone two roofes high with the highest roofe almost flat after the manner of the Italian Pallaces And it is worth the obseruation that each Mosche or Turkish Church rising in the top with diuers Globes and they being couered with brasse or Copper they make a beautifull shew especially the Sunne shining and more especially because they are seated vpon hilles The Turkish Bashacs laugh at them who tell how beautifull and stately the Christians Pallaces are builton the out-side as if they onely respected the inward magnificence But Christians doe also desite this inward beauty some more some lesse And that the Turkes neglect outward beauty the desire of inward beauty is not the true reason thereof For as they place all religion in the shew and outward things so no doubt they would in this also greatly respect the outside were it not that they liue vnder such a tyrannical Gouernment which makes all the Empire full of desolation so as they doe not preserue the houses they conquered from Christians in their wonted magnificence much lesse themselues erect such stately building ' yea dare not haue any rich housholdstuffe at least to be vulgarly seene lest their riches should make them a prey to their Magistrates or souldiers finding nothing so safe vnto them as the sordide shew of pouertie And this is the cause that many of them hide and bury their treasure vnder the earth whereof the free vse would proue dangerous to them and as the Poet saith Quò mihi diuitiae Sinon conceditur vti What doe riches profit me Who to vse them am not free But the Turkes and especially the Christians subiect to them being borne and from infancy bred vnder the yoke of perpetuall slauery and hauing neuer tasted the sweetenesse of liberty doe beare with ease this burthen which we thinke vnsupportable In France the houses of Paris are of vnpolished great stones couered ouer with plaster and are built stately three or foure sometimes sixe roofes high with the highest roofe which hath windowes and they are couered with tiles The building of
forraigne vices or vertues but with Brutus that they will they will too much For Bohemia and Switzerland that seated in the center of Germany this on the Northwest side of the Alpes I haue contained their Geohraphicall description in that of Germany and haue spoken something of them in this discourse of Germany It remaines to adde something of them touching the particular subiects of this Chapter The Bohemians drinke the Wines of Hungarie being much better then those of Germany and haue much better Beere in regard they haue great plenof Corne and the Sweitzers drinke the delicate Wines of Italy Neither of their traffickes is comparable to that of Germany because Bohemia is farre within land and hath no great commodities to bee exported and Sweitzerland is addicted to the mercinarie seruice of forraigne Princes in their warres changing their cattell for the VVines of Italy and content with their owne so they want not plenty of good drinke Some Cantones of the Sweitzers make great gaine of spinning wooll whereof they make pieces of cloth some 134 elles long and lest couetousnes of priuate men might preiudice the common good they appoint ouerseers to this trade who punish all fraudes seuerely and some capitally For foode they abound with Hony Butter and Milke and haue plenty of Venson found in the wilde Alpes and especially of excellent sorts of fish by reason of their frequent Lakes In publike Innes a meale is giuen for sixe or seuen batzen They are hospitall towards strangers and among themselues they haue publike houses where they meete and shoote with Crosebow and musket with like exercises There they sometimes eate together and inuite guests to these houses as to a Tauerne And to the end all things may there be done with more modesty the tables of the Magistrates and all other sorts of men are in one and the same roome In meates they vse moderation and for drinking vse farre lesse excesse then the Saxons somewhat lesse then they of vpper Germany They haue strict lawes to imprison Drunkards for a yeere and at solemne feasts the vulgar sort are admonished to behaue themselues modestly yet drunkennesse hath such patronage among the best sort as it cannot be banished They bragge of their ancient temperance and say that excesse came into the Commonwealth together with the accepting of military stipends from forraigne Princes Bohemia abounds with Corne Cattle Fish as plenty of Salmons Woods good Horses but heauy like those of Freesland and with Niter which it is death to carry out yet for gaine of fifty in the hundred there want not who hazard that danger I say it hath the commodities and also produceth Wines but very sharpe and vnpleasant and hath some mines of mettals Howsoeuer it bee much more Southerly then England yet the Italian fruits as figges are there most rare which in Winter they keepe in cellers and onely in Summer time set them abroad in Gardens and in like sort but with great difficulty they preserue Rosemary but they haue no Lawrell at all The men drinke if it be possible more then the Germans and are much more subiect to gluttony and their women swill Wine and Beere daily and in great excesse which to the Germans is most reprochfull In the Innes they giue large dyet for some fiue Bohemish grosh a meale and vpon the confines of Germany towards Nurnberg for some twenty creitzers a meale But the Bohemians eate often in the day and sit almost continually at the Table and since at Prage and in many other places all things are sold out of the Innes after the maner of Poland the Bohemians seldome eat at an ordinary but demand what meate they will vpon a reckoning For the rest Boemerland and Sweitzerland little differ from Germany for the diet the Hosts the Innes excesse of drinking or any like things CHAP. IIII. Of the vnited Prouinces in Netherland and of Denmarke and Poland touching the said subiects of the precedent third Chapter THE longitude of Netherland lyes or extends seuen degrees and a halfe from the Meridian of twenty two degrees and a halfe to that of thirty degrees and the Latitude lyes or extends fiue degrees from the paralell of forty eight degrees and a halfe to that of fifty three degrees and a halfe It is called Netherland as a Country lying low and the people for language and manners hath great affinitie with the Germans both being called Dutchmen by a common name Of old this Country was a part of Gallia transalpina that is beyond the Alpes from Italy which was subdeuided into Comata and Narbonensis and againe Comata so called of the peoples long haire was subdeuided into Aquitanica Celtica or Lugdunensis and Belgica This part called Belgica containes the Lowcountries whose dominion hath been by marriage deriued from the Burgundian family to that of Austria and some diuide this Countrie into seuenteene Prouinces whereof some still remaine subiect to the King of Spaine others of which I am to speake being vnited in league haue recouered their libertie by the sword and at this time did make warre with the Spaniard about the same But some Maps among these seuenteene Prouinces reckon the County of Valkenburg which is part of the Dukedome of Limburg other Maps make Mechlin and Antwerp to bee Prouinces which are both contained in the Dukedome of Brabant Therefore I better approue those who diuide the whole Country into fifteene Prouinces namely the Counties of Artois of Flanders of Hanaw of Zeland of Holland of Zutphan and of Namurs and the Dukedomes of Luxenburg of Brabant of Limburg and of Gelderland and the territories of West-Freesland of Groning of Vtrecht of Transisola 1 The County of Artois hath many faire Cities whereof Arras is the chiefe giuing the name to the Prouince and to those rich hangings wherwith our great men adorne their Pallaces 2 Flanders is the largest County the chiefe Cities whereof are Ghant where the Emperour Charles the fifth was borne and Bruges whether great concourse of Merchants was made of old so as the strangers hearing no other name but Flanders did by custome impose the name of Flanders on all the fifteene Prouinces and the name of Flemmings on all the inhabitants Flanders hath other Cities namely Calleis Dunkerk Ostend and Sleuse all lying on the Sea coast whereof Sleuse is a Municipall Village of Bruges but at this time was it selfe strongly fortified and Ostend taken from the Spaniards by the States of the vnited Prouinces was at this time committed by them and vnder their pay to the custody of an English Garrison vnder Sir Edward Norreys Knight This Prouince yeelds plenty of Corne and Flax and is very rich with making Linnen and Woollen Cloathes It hath excellent pastures and is inriched with Cheese Butter Oyle made of Rape-rootes Salt and the fishing of Herrings but it yeelds no Wine The famous Wood Arduenna lies in the confines thereof towards land where
it aboundeth with Wood but towards the Sea they burne Turfe made of earth and also burne Cow dung 3 The County of Hanaw hath the Principality of Arscot vnited to the Dukedome of Brabant by which the Dukes sonne hath the title of Prince The chiefe Cities of this County are Mons and Valinciennes It hath mines yeelding Leade and Marble of many colours and a good kind of Coales 4 The County of Zeland is by situation the first of the Vnited Prouinces consisting of many Ilands whereof seuen are principall and the chiefe is Walcherne the chiefe Citie whereof is Midleburg famous for trafficke and the Staple for Spanish and French Wines Neere that is the City Vlishing strongly fortified being the chiefe of the Forts then ingaged to the Crowne of England and kept by an English Garrison vnder the command of Sir Robert Sidney Knight for the second Fort ingaged to England lyes in another Iland and is called Brill being then kept by an English Garrison vnder the command of the Lord Barrows All these Ilands are fertile and yeeld excellent Corne more plentifully then any other Prouince so as one aker thereof is said to yeeld double to an aker of Brabant But they haue no sweete water nor good aire and for want of wood burne turffe They take plenty of sea-fishes which they Salt and carry into other Countries Madder for dying of wooll growes there plentifully which likewise they export and grow rich by selling these commodities as likewise Spanish and French Salt and like trafficke 5 The County of Holland called of old Battauia and inhabited by the Chatti as Tacitus writes is in situation the second of the vnited Prouinces but the first in dignity The Cities whereof are Amstelrodam famous for trafficke Rhoterodam where Erasmus was borne Leyden an Vniuersity Harlem Dort the staple for the Rhenish Wines and Delph all very faire Cities And I may not omit the most pleasant Village of the Hage called Grauenhage because the Counts Court was there and it is now the seate of the vnited States wanting onely wals to make it numbred among the most pleasant Cities being no doubt a Village yeelding to none for the pleasant seat This Prouince doth so abound with lakes pooles of water and artificiall ditches as it giues passage by water as well as by land to euery City and poorest Village which are infinite in number And these ditches itoweth for the most part to the Riuer Rheine For the Rheine of old running towards Leyden did fall a little below it into the Sea but at this day by reason the Land is low and subiect to ouerflowings it hath changed the bed and at Lobecum in the Dukedome of Cleue deuides it selfe into many branches The first runnes to Arnheim a City of Gelderland then to Vaua Rena and Battouodurum where Lecca receiues his waters and takes away the name from the Rheine yet so as a little branch thereof still holds the name of Rheine which running to Mastricht there deuides into two one whereof fals into Vecta and so into an arme of the Sea neere Munda the other runnes by Woerden and after a long course necre Leyden is deuided into fiue little branches whereof three fall into a lake and the fourth turnes to Renoburg and leeseth it selfe in mountaines of sand neere the Village Catwicke I remember that the water falling through Leyden is called Rheine so as I thinke it probable that all the standing waters lying betweene the seuerall pastures there come from the Rheine after it hath lost the name I said that the Rheine at Battouodurum is called Lecca which runnes to Culenburg and to Viana where in a ditch is the fountaine of Isala which runnes to 〈◊〉 Thus to omit the little branch at Battouodurum the first branch of the Rheine is lost in the Riuers Lecca and Isala The second branch bends from Lobecum to Neomagum and fals into the Brooke Meroutus taking the name of the old Family of Kings among the Gals where is an old Castle compassed with the Brooke and of the same name then running to Dort in Holland it receiues the foresaid Lecca and Isala and so neere Rhoterodame fals into the Mosa and vnder that name fals neere Brill into the German Sea The third branch of the Rheine running from Lobecum within two miles of Arnheime fals into the ditch of Drusus or rather of Germanicus and so runnes to Dewsborows the City of Drusus where it receiues the old Isala springing in Westphalia and by the name of Isala or Isell running to Zutphane and then to Deuentry fals into Tatus at Amstelrodame and by an arme of the Sea is carried to West-Freesland and so fals into the German Sea neere the Iland Flye 5 To returne to my purpose Holland is little in circuite but abounds with people and dwellings and being poore of it selfe is most rich by industrie and wanting both Wine and Corne yet furnisheth many Nations with both Neither Wooll nor Flax grow there but of both brought in to them they make linnen clothes much prised and also Woollen both carried to the very Indies I need not speake of Holland Cheeses so vulgarly knowne and much esteemed Lastly Holland is famous for the traffique of all commodities and the Romans so highly esteemed the Fortitude and faithfulnes of the old Battani as they had a Band of them for their Guard 6 The County of Zutphane is accompted part of Gelderland and subdued by the States Arinie was ioyned to the vnited Prouinces in the yeere 1591. 7 The County of Namures so called of the Cheese Citie hath Mines of Iron and plenty of stony Coale contrarie to all other Coales in that it is quenched by the infusion of Oyle It hath also an ill smell which they take away by the sprinckling of Salt and it burnes more cleere hauing water cast vpon it This County hath also quarries of Free-stone and of Marble of diuers colours 8 The Dukedome of Luxenburg hath the name of the chiefe Citie and the inhabitants of the vpper part are Germanes but they of the lower parts are like the French in language and Manners 9 The Dukedom of Brabant hath faire Cities namely Antwerp most famous before the ciuil War because Maximilian of Austria brought thither frō Bruges in Flanders the famous traffique of all Nations by a ditch drawne to Sluce onely to bee failed vpon at the flowing of the Sea tides At this day forsaken of Merchants it lies ouergrowne with grasse and the said trafficke inricheth Holland and the vnited Prouinces The next City is Brissell of old the seate of the Dukes and now of the Spanish Gouernours Then Louan a famous Vniuersity Then Mechlin subiect to the vnited States Then Bergen-ap-zome a fortified City at this time committed to the custody of Sir Thomas Morgan Knight with an English Garrison The Inhabitants of this Dukedome were of old called Tungri 10 The Dukedome of Limburg hath Mastricht for the chiefe City
the Bishoprick of Licge pertaines to it wherein the City of Liege is the Bishops seate and the territory thereof yeelds a little quantity of a small wine and hath Mines yeelding a little Iron some leade and brimstone and a very little quantity of good gold The Mountaines yeeld a black Alablaster with marble and other stones especially stony coales in great quantity which being there found at first are now called generally Liege Coales 11 The Dukedome of Gelderland was of old inhabited by the Menappij and Sieambri and aboundeth with excellent pastures and meadowes so as great Heards of Cattle brought thither out of Denmarke to be sold are for great part fatted there The chiefe City is Nimmengen the second Harduike a fortified City subiect to the vnited States and the third Arnheim also subiect to them 12 The Territory of West-Freessand is diuided as Holland with artificiall ditches and aboundeth with eocellent pastures for fatting of the greatest heards of Cattle and yeeldeth it selfe all kinds of cattle of extraordinary bignesse as Horses of Freesland vulgarly knowne It hath many Cities where of the chiefe are Lewerden Dockam Fronikar an Vniuersity and Harlingen not to speake of nine other Townes fortified with wals and ditcbes This Territory is subiect or associated to the vnited States 13 The Territory of Groningen made part of Freesland by Cosmagraphers is also subiect to the States and hath the name of the chiefe City strongly fortified and seated in a fenny soyle 14 The Territory of Vtrecht is also associated vnder the same vnited States whose chiefe and very pleasant City is called Vtrecht 15 The Territory of Transisole vulgarly called De land ouer Ysseli the Land beyond Yssell is also associated to the vnited States whereof the chiefe City is Deuentry which besieged by the States Army in the yeere 1591 was then subdued and it lies neerer to the Sea It hath another City called swoll The vnited Prouinces of Netherland through which onely I did passe haue a most intemperate Aire the Winter cold being excessiue and the Summers heat farre exceeding the ordinary heate of that clime The reason of the cold is that the Northerne winds of themselues ordinarily cold doe here in a long course on all sides glide vpon the German Sea thereby gathering farre greater cold and so rush into those plaine Prouinces no where stopped either by mountaines or woods there being no Mountaines scarce any hils no woods scarce any groues to hinder them from violent passage with their vttermost force Like reason may be giuen for the heate For the same open Plaine no way shaddowed from the beames of the Sunne by opposition of Woods or Mountaines must needs in Summer be subiect to the heate of the Sunne and winds from land Adde that in Winter the frequent Riuers Lakes and Pooles or standing waters in finitely increase the coldnesse of the aire These waters aswell running as standing are almost all Winter frosen ouer with a thicke ice so as they will beare some hundreths of young men and women sliding vpon them with pattins according to their custome Yea the Arme of the Sea called Zwidersea lying within land betweene Holland and Freseland though it be large and deepe hauing only two flats or shoales yet being compassed with Ilands and the Continent is many times in Winter so frosen ouer as Victualers erect Tents in the middest of it hauing Beere and Wine and fier made vpon iron furnaces to refresh such as passe vpon sledges or sliding vpon iron patterns from one shoare to the other This cold is the cause why their sheepe and cattell are kept in stables to bring forth their young And howsoeuer the same be done in Italy subiect to great heate yet it is not of necessitie as here but out of the too great tendernesse of the Italians towards the few cattle they haue And this is the cause that how soeuer they vse not hot stoaues as the Germans doe yet the Weomen as well at home as in the Churches to driue away cold put vnder them little pannes of fier couered with boxes of wood boared full of holes in the top And this sordid remedy they carry with them by the high way in waggons which the Danes or Mosconites vse not though oppressed with greater cold onely some of the more noble Weomen disliking this remedy choose rather to weare breeches to defend them from the cold In this distemper of Aire it cannot be expected that there should be plenty of flowers and summer fruites No doubt in regard of the fatnesse of the soile watered with frequent ditches and through the foresaid heat of the Summer they might haue plenty of flowers and fruits were it not impossible or very difficult to preserue them from perishing by the winters cold and were not the Inhabitants carelesse of such dainties though in later times as they haue admitted forraigne manners so luxury hath more power with them then formerly it had I haue oft seene one Apple sold for a blancke and those great Cherries which are brought into England grow not here but in Flaunders and the Territories within Land They haue abundance of Butter Cheese and Rootes and howsoeuer they haue not of their owne full sufficiency of other things to maintaine life yet they abound with the same brought from other parts Some prouinces as the Bishoprick of Vtrecht yeeld corne to be transported but in generall the vnited Prouinces of which only I discourse in this place haue not sufficient corne for their owne vse yet by traffick at Dantzke they furnish themselues many other nations therewith They haue little plenty of Riuer fish excepting onely Eales but in the Mosa as it fals from Dort to the sea they haue plenty of Salmons and other fish which fishing did of old yeeld great profit to the Prince and Merchants And for Sea fishes salted and dried they make great trafficke therewith My selfe lying for a passage in the Iland Fly did see great quantity of shell-fish sold at a very low rate Great heards of Oxen and Calues are yeerely brought into these parts out of the Dukedome of Holst vnited to the Kingdome of Denmarke in which parts they feed most on dry and salt meates and these Heards are fatted in the rich pastures of Gelderland and Freesland There is great abundance of Sea Fowles especially in West-Freesland and they want not land Fowles They carefully nourish Storkes as presaging happinesse to an Aristocraticall gouernement making them nests on the tops of publike houses and punishing any that driue them away or trouble them In which kind also they preserue Hernes making nests in those groues which are onely in few Cities They haue a race of heauy Horses and strong which they sell in sorraigne parts vsing onely their Mares to draw Waggons and for like vses at home The Prouinces on the Sea Coast as I formerly said burne their owne earth by the frequent digging whereof they say the Sea or lake
low rate whereby the great trade and singular industry of the Inhabitants may be coniectured Adde that besides the German Sea lying vpon diuers of these Prouinces they haue many Armes of the Sea that runne farre within Land All the Riuers fall from Germany which in this lower soyle often ouerflowing haue changed their old beds and falling into ditches made by hand doe no more runne with their wonted force but as I haue said in the description of Holland doe end as it were in lakes By reason of the foresaid industry of the people inhabiting the vnited Prouinces the number of their ships and the commodity of their Seas and waters howsoeuer they want of their owne many things for necessity and delight yet there is no where greater abundance of all things neither could any Nation indowed with the greatest riches by nature haue so long borne as they haue done a ciuell warre and intollerable exactions and tributes much lesse could they by this mischiefe haue growne rich as this people hath done One thing not vsed in any other Countrey is here most common that while the Husbands snort idly at home the Weomen especially of Holland for trafficke sayle to Hamburg and manage most part of the businesse at home and in neighbour Cities In the shops they sell all they take all accompts and it is no teproch to the men to be neuer inquited after about these affaires who taking money of their wiues for daily expences gladly passe their time in idlenesse Touching this peoples diet Butter is the first and last dish at the Table whereof they make all sawces especially for fish and thereupon by strangers they are merrily called Butter-mouths They are much delighted with white meats and the Bawers drinke milke in stead of beere and as well Men as Weomen passing in boates from City to City for trade carry with them cheese and boxes of butter for their foode whereupon in like sort strangers call them Butter boxes and nothing is more ordinary then for Citizens of good accompt and wealth to sit at their dores euen dwelling in the market place holding in their hands and eating a great lumpe of bread and butter with a lunchen of cheese They vse to seeth little peeces of flesh in Pipkins with rootes and gobbets of fat mingled therewith without any cutiosity and this they often seeth againe setting it each meale of the weeke on the Table newly heated and with some addition of flesh rootes or fat morsels as they thinke needfull and this dish is vulgarly called Hutspot They feed much vpon rootes which the boyes of rich men deuoure raw with a morsell of bread as they runne playing in the streetes They vse most commonly fresh meates and seldome set any salt meates on the board except it beat Feasts to prouoke drinking They vse no spits to roast meat but bake them in an earthen pipkin as in an ouen and so likewise seeth them And these meates being cold they often heat and serue to the Table so as I haue come into an Inne and being in the Kitchen could see nothing ready for supper yet presently called to supper haue seene a long Table furnished with these often heated meats which smoaked on the outside yet were cold on the inside This people is prouerbially said to excell in baked meates especially in baking of Venison yet to my knowledge they haue no red Deare in these Prouinces neither haue they any inclosed Parkes for fallow Deare nor any Connygrees Onely Count Mauritz hath of late had out of England some Buckes and Does of fallow Deare which runne in the groue at the Hage and there be some Connies neere Leyden vpon the sandy banke of the Sea which are not sufficient to serue the Inhabitants of those parts but are accounted good and pleasant to eat Neither in forraigne parts doe they much desire to feed on Connies either because they are rare or because the flesh is not sauoury They vse to eate early in the morning euen before day and the cloth is laid foure times in the day for very seruants but two of these times they set before them nothing but cheese and butter They seeth all their meate in water falling of raine and kept in Cesternes They eate Mushromes and the binder parts of frogges for great dainties which frogges young men vse to catch and present them to their Mistresses for dainties I haue seene a hundreth of Oysters in diuers Cities sold sometimes for eight or twelue yea for twenty or thirty stiuers They dresse fresh water fish with butter more then enough and salted fishes sauourly with butter mustard where they eate not at an Ordinary but vpon reckoning as they doe in Villages and poorer Innes there they weigh the cheese when it is set on Table and taken away being paid by the waight and I haue knowne some waggish Souldiers who put a leaden bullet into the Cheese making it thereby weigh little lesse then at first sitting downe and so deceiuing their Hosts But in the chiefe Innes a man shall eate at an Ordinary and there Gentlemen and others of inferiour condition sit at the same Table and at the same rate The Innes are commodious enough and the Cities being frequent scarce some eight miles distant one from the other commodities of lodging are as frequent yea they hang out signes at the doore which fashion is not in vse in may Cities of Germany in Denmarke Poland Scotland and Ireland where the Innes are onely knowne by fame and this made me maruell that notwithstanding this signe obliging them to lodge strangers my selfe though well apparelled haue diuers times beene refused lodging in many of those Innes which seemed to me a scorne and flat iniury At the faire City of Leyden not wanting many faire Innes I was refused lodging in sixe of them and hardly got it in the seuenth which made me gather that they did not willingly entertaine Englishmen neither did I attribute this to their in hospital nature but to the licentiousnesse of our Souldiers who perhaps had deserued ill of them thereby or perhaps by ill payment for which I cannot blame the English in that case butrather the vnequall Law of England giuing all to the elder brothers lying sluggishly at home and thrusting the younger brothers into the warres and all desperate hazards and that in penury which forcibly driueth the most ingenious dispositions to doe vnfit things By reason of the huge impositions especially vpon wines the passengers expence is much increased for the exactions often equall or passe the value of the things for which they are paid And though a man drinke beere subiect to lesse imposition and lesse deere then wine yet he must vnderstand that his companions drinke largely and be he neuer so sober in diet yet his purse must pay a share for their intemperance After supper passengers vse to sit by the fier and passe some time in mirth drinking vpon the common charge and to
in our Age. The other City is called Chaledon whence was the Chaledonian Boare sung of the Poets 5 The fifth Prouince of Turky is Macedonia of old called Migdonia and Emathea the chiefe City whereof is Thessalonica vulgarly now called Saloniche to the Citizens whereof S. Paul wrote his Epistle The Mountains of this Prouince Olimpus Pelion Ossa are famous by the fables of the Giants Athos is fained to passe the clouds with his top 6. The lower part of Macedonia is called Thessalia or AEmonia of Thessalus the son of AEmon or as others say of Iason the chiefe Towne whereof was Pharsalos whose fields are famous by the victory of Caesar against Pompey 7 Thracia hath faire Cities Trimontium of old called Poneropolis and Philippopolis Adrianopolis and the head City Constantinopolis of old called Bysantium now Stambol seated vpon the Bosphorus of Thracia It hath famous Mountaines Rhodope Mela and Ismarus Vpon Propontis the Thracian Chersonesus or necke of Land lies vpon the Hellespont in which are the Townes Sesto and Callipolis 8 The vpper Mista is deuided into three parts Rascia Bosnia and Seruia and the lower Misia into three parts Bulgaria Wallachia and Moldauia In Bulgaria the Riuer Danubius beginnes to be called Isther which fals into the Euxine Sea with foure strong and three lesser channels 9 Dacia or Transiluania was of old possessed by the Saxons who there built seuen Cities or Castles of which the Prouince is called Septem-Castrensis vulgarly Sieben burgen and of old it belonged to the Kingdome of Hungary but at this day is tributary to the Turks 10 Hungaria so called of the people Hunnt was of old called Fannonia the lower and of right belongs to the German Emperour but of late the Turkes haue subdued the greater part thereof It hath many and strongly fortified Cities as Debrezinum Varadinum Segedinum vulgarly Seget Castrum taken by the Turkes Strigonium vulgarly 〈◊〉 taken by the Turkes in the yeere 1543 Alba Regalis at that time also taken by them Quinquecclesiae the feate of the Bishop Buda seated vpon the Danow twice or thrice taken and regained on both sides of old the Kings seate called vulgarly Offen and Pesta seated on the other side of Danow vulgarly called New offen The Hungarian Nation yeelds to none in strength and courage not vnlike the Scithians in language and manners 11 The Ilands of Europe in the Ionian Sea are these Corcira vulgarly Corfu Cephalania and Zaintos in Latin Zacinthus vulgarly now called Zante all three subiect to the Venetians All the Ilands in the AEgean Sea are subiect to the Turke being innumerable among them are the Cyclades so called because they lie round together the chiefe whereof are Cytnos Cyphnos vulgarly Sifano Parus now called Paris famous for the Marble Tenos now called Tenasa Naxus Andros and Delos the chiefe of all where Apollo and Diana were borne Next them are the Sporades so called of lying dispersed among which are Melos Lera Nicaria AEgina and Lemnos vulgarly Stalemine whether they fable that Vulcane was cast downe The Iland Ibea now vulgarly Negroponte is attributed to Greece being separated from the continent with so little distance as it can hardly be named an Iland and it lies close to the City of Athens The Turke hath great part of Asia deuided into Asia the lesser and Asia the greater The lesser is now called Natolia or Anatolia of a Greeke word signifying the East being a kinde of Isthmus or necke of land lying betweene two Seas the Euxine towards the North and the Mediterranean towards the South as it hath the Thracian Bosphorus as passable by an Oxe swimming and Propontis as lying before the Sea and Hellespont the AEgean Sea towards the West and is confined with the Riuer Euphrates towards the East This lesser Asia is all subiect to the Turk and hath 16. Prouinces Bithinia Fōtus Paphlagonia Capadocia Gallatia Frigia the greater lesser Misia Ionia Charia Lidia Pamphilia Lacaonia Licia Cilicia the lesser Armenia Chomagena 1 Bithinia is at this day called Migtonia and the chiefe Cities thereof are Nicea the Metropolitan Citie famous for the Councell in the yeere 314. of 318. Bishops meeting to beat downe the Arrian heresie and there making the Nicene Creed Lybissa where Hannibal was buried Chalcedo where one of the eight olde Councels was held by 530 Bishops Heraclia Nicomedia Phrasso where Esculapius was born and Bursa seated ouer against Constantinople where some Turkish Emperours lye buried and thither the great Turkes eldest sonne is sent to gouerne or in a kinde of exile for he neuer sees his Father more till he be dead and thither he is sent assoone as hee is circumcised 2. Some accompt Pontus for part of Bithinia 3. Paphlagonia is the third Prouince 4. Capadocia the fourth so called of the Riuer Capadocis and the chiefe Citie is Trapesuntium now called Genech And here the Amazones are said to haue liued from the destruction of Troy to the time of Alexander the Great 5 Frigia the lesser was called Frixis of Frixus sonne to the King of Thebes flying with his sister frō his stepmother who moūted on a Ramm with a golden Fleece perhaps a Ship so called his sister being drowned giuing the name to Hellespont and he came himself to this part of Asia which at this day is called Palormi yeelds a most excellent Wine and in this Prouince are Illium or Troy the Mountaines Ida and Tinolus and the Riuer Pactolus The ninth Sybilla that prophesied of Christ was a Frigian and here raigned King Tantalus by couetousnesse leesing the vse of his goods of whom the Poets so fable The greater Frigia is within Land 6 The chiefe Cities of Misia are Traianopolis built by Traian and Adramitbium whereof mentiou is made in the seuenteenth Chapter of the Acts of the Apostles and where Gallene was borne who liued 140 yeeres 7 Gallatia or Gallogrecia was possessed by the Gals vnder Brennus whereof the chiefe City is Laodicia and to this Prouince belongs Pisidia the chiefe City whereof is Antiochia 8 The chiefe Cities of Ionia are Ephesus where was the Temple of Diana which Erostrates a Gothe did burne to be famous Miletum where Thales and Anaximines were borne Smyrna 9 The chiefe City of Charia was of old Halicarnassus in which was the Sepulcher of Mausolius the King held for one of the seuen miracles of the World 10 The chiefe City of Lydia was Sardis where Craesus raigned 11 The chiefe City of Pamphilia was Zelotia and in this Prouince is the Mountaine Chimera vpon the wild top whereof Lyons were found as in the middle part yeelding grasse Goates did feed and in the bottome were Serpents whereof came the fiction of the Monster 12 In Lacaonia of old were these cities Iconium Metrapolitan Lysire where Timothy Saint Pauls Disciple was borne and the Riuer Xanthus runnes through this Prouince 13 Licia lies vpō the Sea between Pamphilia Charia 14 Cylicia lies vnder
the Mountaine Taurus vpon the furthest bosome of the Mediterranean Sea or Iccian Gulfe where Alexander the Great ouercame Darius and there is Tarsus now called Bias in which Towne Saint Paul was borne 15 Armenia the lesser is thought by some to be the Land Ararat vpon the Mountaines whereof the Arke of Noah rested after the deluge Vnder this Prouince some comhrehend 16 Chomagena being ful of Mountaines and confining vpon Asia the lesser towards the East The Geographers diuide Asia the greater into fiue parts according vnto fiue Empires the first of the Duke of Moscouia the second of great Cham ouer the Tartars the third of the Persian King the fourth of diuers Indian Kings the fifth of Ottomen ouer the Turkes And this last onely belongs to my purpose therefore omitting the rest I will speake of it The great Turke hath these Prouinces in Asia the greater namely Syria Arabia Babylonia Chaldea Assyria and diuers Ilands Siria is vulgarly called Sorya and containes Palestina Phaenitia Caelosyria Damaseena Sirophaenitia and as some account Mesopotamia Palestina of old called Canaan is subdeuided into Idumaea Iudaea Samarta Galilea Idumea of old called Edom is not vnfertil and abounds with Palme-trees but where it confines vpon Arabia is said to bee barren and there are the Mountaines called Sur in Scriptures It had these chiefe Cities of old Maresa Ascalon Asotos Iudea is the second Prouince of Palestina so called of the Tribe of Iudae and Ierusalem the chiefe City thereof is at this day called Chutz The most famous places therof are Bethlehem Bethania Mount Oliuet Ierico Ioppe where S. Peter raised Dorcas from the dead Lydda where he healed the man sicko of the Palsie Arimathia where Ioseph was borne and Hebron where Saray the wife of Abraham and foure Patriarkes lye buried The Hebrewes say that the vally called Sittim by Moses was most 〈◊〉 where now is the Lake Asphaltis and in this valley stood Sodom and Gomora Beyond Iordan is the desart of Betabora where Iohn baptised and the Land Gilliad where the Amonites and Moabites dwelt of old Samaria the third Prouince of Palestine had these Cities Sichim Capernaum seated vpon the Lake Geneseret Nahim where Christ raised the widowes son Betzaida Coratzen beyond the Lake Gadera is Samaria the chiefe City of the ten Tribes that fel from Iuda Galilea the last Prouince of Palestine is deuided into the vpper and the lower The vpper called Gallile of the Gentiles containes the Kingdome Basen and hath these Cities Chana the Greater Cesarea Philippi Seleutia and Gaulon and this Prouince had the title of Tetrarch The lower had the same title and containes the Regions of Decapolis and Traconitis beyond Iordan The chiefe Cities thereof were Betsaida Chana the lesser and Nazaret And here is the Mount Tabor where Christ was transfigured And the Riuer Iordan running through all Palestine hath two heads Iar and Dan vpon the Mount Antilibanus and running thence into the lake Asphaltis by the way makes two Lakes Samachonitis vpon the confines deuiding the two Galilies and Genezaret or Tyberias vpon the confines betweene the lower Galily and Samaria Phenicia the second part of Syria lies vpon the Sea and reacheth to Serophenicia from the City Dora vpon the Sea to the Mount Carmelus where it is confined with the Mount Lybanus The chiefe Cities thereof were Dora Ptolemais Acon Tyrus Sarcpta and Sydon Selosiria the third part of Syria so called as crooked or hollow had of old the title of Tetrarch in which is the City Damascus which giues the name Damascena to the fourth part of Syria and here Allabaster growes of which they make vessels Damascus is thought to be built by the seruants of Abraham and neere the City is a place where Christ appeared to Saint Paul and the Sepulcher of Zachartas is said to be there and they shew a place where Caine is said to haue killed Abell The soile is most fertile so as Writers and the consent of all Men witnesse that grapes grow there all the yeere and that there is plenty of Quinces Figges Almonds and Damasco Prunes Sirophenitia the fifth part of Syria hath these Cities Beritum of old called happy Iulia Biblus Iripolis Landicia Antiochia of old called Reblatha which after it had beene decaied by a great Earthquake was rebuilt by the Emperour Iustinian and called Theopolis a famous City in which the Professours formerly called Disciples first had the name of Christians and Histories testifie that Saint Peter was the first Bishop thereof Mesopotamia the last part of Syria is so called as lying betweene two Riuers swift Tygris so called of the swiftnesse Tygris in the Medes tongue signifying an Arrow and Euphrates And by the yeerely ouerflowing of these Riuers after the Solstice as Egypt by that of Nilus the soyle is made most fertile whereof Writers report wonders namely that one measure sowed yeeldes fifty and in some places sixty measures and that plants perpetually flourish there yet that the inner parts want water so as the Inhabitants finding a spring vse to keepe it secret that it may not be knowne to their enemies At this day the Turkes call this Prouince Diarbecke the Cities whereof are Edessa and Carra which Moses in the twelfth Chapter of Genesis cals Haram where Abraham dwelt when hee came out of Chaldea 2 Arabia is the second part of the Turkish Empire in Asia the greater which is subdeuided into Petrea rocky desert and happy Arabia The Israelites liued forty yeeres in rocky Arabia being full of Mountaines and barren whereof proceeded their murmurings There is famous Mount Sinay vpon which Gods Law was published and ouer against it Mount Horeb. In Sinay is the Region Nabathea and the City thereof Petra after called Arech is in the Scriptures called Petra of the desart and neere it lies the Region Agra or Agara the Inhabitants whereof were called Agarens as comming of Hagar Concubine to Abraham Desert Arabia is barren destitute of waters and couered with deepe sand the Inhabitants whereof doe liue in Tents hauing no certaine abiding but neere Euphrates some dwellings are where is the famous Towne Tapsacum after called Amphipolis Happy Arabia lies almost in the forme of a Chersonesus or necke of Land betweene the two great gulfes of the Sea the Arabian gulfe and the Persian and it yeelds Cinnamon Franckensence Mirh the Gumme Ladanum and other precious Odours and abounds with Hony Waxe and all kinds of Cattell excepting Swine onely It is said that Granes of Gold as bigge as Acorres are found here among the cloddes of the Earth It hath the Bird Phaenix of which kinde there is neuer more then one onely which by striking of stones together kindles a fier and burnes her selfe in her nest of myrh and of the Ashes comes a worme which becomes a Bird and so the Phaenix liues againe They fish pearles in the Arabian gulfe and Iewels are found vpon the Sea shore The Nation of the Sabaeans
numbers of Silke-wormes especially at Tripoli and in most parts of Asia which make great quantitie of Silke as I formerly said in the discourse of Italy yet they sell this Silke raw and vnwonen and buy of the Venetians the foresaid clothes made of their owne silke so as the silkewormes may well be said to bee more diligent and more to promote the publike good then the inhabitants for they swarming in all Gardens diligentlie finish their web while the idle inhabitants yeeld the commoditie thereof to strangers The Venetians also export from Turkey Spices and Apothecary wares and great quantitie of the Dye called Indico They export Galles Cotten wooll Cotton threads Chamlets or Grograms made of the finest haires of Goates not sheared but pulled off from their backes and wouen in Galatia a Prouince of the lesser Asia They export Turkey Carpets Goates skinnes wrought and died into diuers colours The English bring to the Turkes Kersies wrought and dyed of diuers colours and kinds but they bring little Broad-cloth wherewith they are aboundantlie furnished from Venice They also bring to them Tinne and blacke Conni-skinnes in such quantitic as the Turkes admiring the same a Frenchman merily taxing our womens affabilitie said that in England there was such plenty of Connyes and they so tame as they were taken in the Tauerns The English export from them Spices and Apothecary wares for the Trade into the East Indies was not then set vp they also export the foresaid commodities raw silke Indico and other precious Dyes of Scarlet Purple and the like Galles Mastick growing onely in the Iland Zio Cotton and the thread thereof Turkey Carpets for tables Chamlets Grograms of Goates haire The Merchants comming to Constantinople hardly find there any commodities to export therefore the English ships hauing vnladed there saile empty to Alexandretta and there receiue the commodities of Haleppo Againe the Italians who bring much gold and siluer to Haleppo for the commodities there to bee sold doe againe receiue gold and siluer for such commodities as they bring to Constantinople and carry the same backe to Venice The English lying at the Ilands of Zant and Cephalonia subiect to the Venetians and at Petrasso seated in the Gulfe of Corinth and subiect to the great Turke export Corrands others from Algier a Port of Barbary export Sugar others from the Iland Candia subiect to the Venetians export Muskadines and others from diuers Ilands export earthen dishes and vessels painted which for the purenesse are much esteemed and vsed in Italy and in our parts Northward The swords of Damasco are famous for the mettall piercing iron and cutting a naile in pieces but the exportation of them is forbidden though out Christians supply the Turkes with all warlike munitions which they might shame to haue particularly named in this discourse of traffick The precious Orientall commodities of Persia and the East Indies haue made the Trade of Turkish Cities to bee famous namely their spices and rich dies and Iewels which notwithstanding the Turkes haue in part of their owne For I formerly said that Arabia yeelds Frankinsence Mirrh Cinnamon and Iewels and AEgypt yeeldes Balsam and Opobalsam the more precious gumme of the Balmetree in great quantity omitting many commodities which besides they haue of these kinds I speake not of Thessalonica a City of Macedonia now called Saloniche nor other Hauens and Cities of trafficke in Greece as being of lesse moment All the precious traffick of Turkey by reason of the inhabitants slothfulnesse is in the hands of lewes and of Christians and was long in the sole hands of the Venetians but the French in the age past and the English in our age haue had as I may say a traffickiug league with the Turkes and so partake that trade And these three States onely not to speake of the Germans who at this time had warre with the Turkes and neuer saile so farre to exercise trafficke among so many States of Christians haue their Ambassadours at the Turkish Court And if any other Christians arriue in that Empire as the Flemmings often doe they vsed at this time to come vnder the Banner of one of these three Nations The Reader must vnderstand that when I was in Turkey the English and Flemmings had not as yet begun their traffick in the East Indies which is like to destroy the trafficke in Turkey bringing many rich commodities from the well head For their dyet the Turkes liue sparingly I had said slouenly but that I remembred their frequent bathings and washings and the curious clenlinesse of the linnen and all other clothes which they weare but I will bee bold to say they feede negligently and without any pompe or magnificence The richer sort doe fit at meate like Tailors with their knees bended vpon carpets or vpon the grasse when they eate by Riuers sides and in Gardens as they doe more frequently then in the house And their table is so low as they may well reach to it sitting vpon the ground About this table they cast a long towell to wipe their hands but passengers by the high-way and generally the ordinary sort of Turkes vse grasse in stead of this towell Others carry about a table of leather coloured red or yellow which table shuts and opens like a purse and vpon it they can set but one dish at once it hanging hollow vpon certaine buckels Commonly they eate by the high-way vpon the ground and alwaies with their knees bended like our Taylors They seeth their meat till it be very tender so as they may breake it with theit fingers for they haue no kniues neither haue they variety of dishes set before them but all sitting in a circle fall vpon one dish Taking meat they all together say a short prayer or grace and talke not whilest they eate but silently fall hard to their worke They haue aboundance of all things for foode aswell of flesh excepting swines-flesh as of birds and other meates but they abstaine from fish They haue plenty of Corne at least sufficient for their temperate dyet which is exceeding good and farre bigger then ours They are ignorant of the Arts of birding fouling hunting or cookery and hauing no lasciuicus apetite prouoking them to gluttony are content with simple meates Their sobrietie in this kind cannot sufficiently be commended and since their greatest men can bee content to feede on rice and drinke water it is no maruell that with ease they keepe great Armies in the field All the Turkish housholdstuffe is contained in one poore pot to seeth meate in one spoone of wood one cup of leather or wood to drinke in a poore bed or matresse yea often a single couerled alone and the earth serues them for bedsteed table and stooles They haue no neede of a troope of cookes and scullions to dresse meate and make cleane dishes They willingly eate curds turned sower and mingled with bread and water commonly called Mishmish and fresh cheese or curds
place where they fable that Coryneus wrastled with Gogmagog and in this Towne was borne Sir Francis Drake Knight the cheefe glory of our Age for Nauigation who for two yeeres space did with continual victories as it were besiege the Gulfe of Mexico and in the yeere 15-- entring the straight of Magellan compassed the World in two yeeres and tenne moneths with many changes and hazards of Fortune The Towne Dortmouth is much frequented with Merchants and strong shippes for the commodity of the Hauen fortified with two Castles The City Excester called Isen by Ptolomy and of olde called Monketon of the Monkes is the cheefe City of the County and the seate of the Bishop 3 Dorsetshire was of old inhabited by the Durotriges The Towne Weymouth hath a Castle built by Henry the eighth to fortifie the Hauen Dorchester is the cheefe towne of the County but neither great nor faire 4 Sommersetshire was of old inhabited by the Netherlanders and is a large and rich County happy in the fruitfull soyle rich Pastures multitude of Inhabitants and commodity of Hauens The chiefe Towne Bridgewater hath the name of the Bridge and the water In the Iland Auallon so called in the Britans tongue of the Apples which the Latins cals Glasconia flourished the Monastery Glastenbury of great antiquity deriued from Ioseph of Arimathta Dunstan casting out the ancient Monkes brought thither the Benedictines of a later institution and himselfe was the first Abbot ouer a great multitude of Monkes indowed with Kingly reuenewes In the Church yard of this Monastery they say that the great worthy of the Britans Prince Arthur hath his Sepulcher The Episcopall little City called Wells of the Wells or Fountaines hath a stately Bishops Pallace The City Bathe is famous for the medicinall Baths whereof three Fountaines spring in the very City which are wholsome for bodies nummed with ill humours but are shut vp certaine howers of the day that no man should enter them till by their sluces they be purged of all filth The Bishop of Welles buying this City of Henry the first remoued his Episcopall seate thither yet still keeping the old name of Bishop of Welles and there built a new Cathedrall Church The City Bristowe is compassed with a double wall and hath so faire buildings as well publike as priuate houses as next to London and Yorke it is preferred to all other Cities of England 5 Wilshire was also inhabited by the Belgae or Netherlanders and lies all within land rich in all parts with pastures and corne Malmesbury is a faire Towne famous for the woollen clothes The Towne Wilton of old the cheefe of this County is now a little Village beautified with the stately Pallace of the Earles of Penbroke The City of Salisbury is made pleasant with waters running through the streetes and is beautified with a stately Cathedrall Church and the Colledge of the Deane and Prebends hauing rich Inhabitants in so pleasant a seate yet no way more famous then by hauing Iohn Iewell a late worthy Bishop borne there Some sixe miles from Salisbury is a place in the fields where huge stones are erected whereof some are eight and twenty foote high and seuen broade standing in three rowes after the forme of a crowne vppon which other stones are so laied acrosse as it seemes a worke hanging in the Ayre whereupon it is called Stoneheng vulgarly and is reputed among Miracles as placed there by Merlin there being scarce any stone for ordinary building in the Territory adioyning 6 Hamshire of old was inhabited within Land by the Belgae or Netherlanders and vppon the Sea coast by the Regni William the Norman Conquerour made here a Forrest for Deare destroying Towns and holy buildings for some thirty miles compasse which ground now well inhabited yet seruing for the same vse we call New-Forest Southampton a faire little City lies vpon the Sea Wintchester of old called Venta of the Belgae was a famous City in the time of the Romans and in these daies it is well inhabited watered with a pleasant Brooke and pleasantly seated and hath an olde Castle wherein there hanges against the wall a Table of a round forme vulgarly called Prince Arthurs round Table but Gamden thinkes it to haue been made long after his time It hath a Cathedrall Church and large Bishops Pallace and a famous Colledge founded for training vp young Schollers in learning whence many learned men haue been first sent to the Vniuersity and so into the Church and Commonwealth In the Towne or Port of Portsmouth lies a Garrison of souldiers to defend those parts from the incursions of the French by Sea 7 Barkshire was of old inhabited by the Atrebatij Newbery a famous Towne inriched by wollen clothes had his beginning of the ancient Towne Spina Windsore is famous by the Kings Castle neither can a Kings seate bee in a more pleasant situation which draweth the Kings often to retire thither and Edward the third kept at one time Iohn King of France and Dauid King of Scotland captiues in this Castle The same Edward the third built here a stately Church and dedicated it to the blessed Virgin Mary and to S. George the Capadocian and first instituted the order of Knights called of the Garter as an happy omen of victory in warre happily succeeding who weare vnder the left knee a watchet Garter buckled hauing this mot in the French tongue grauen in letters of gold Hony soit qui mal'y pense and the ceremonies of this order hee instituted to be kept in this Church 8 The County of Surry was of old inhabited by the Regni Otelands is beautified with the Kings very faire and pleasant house as Richmond is with the Kings stately Pallace 9 The County of Sussex of old inhabited by the Regni hath the faire City Chichesler and the Hauen Rhie knowne by being the most frequented passage into France 10 The County of Kent is rich in medows Pastures pleasant Groues and wonderfully aboundeth with Apples and Cherries It hath most frequent Townes and safe Harbours for ships and some vaines of Iron William the Norman Conquerour after the manner of the Romans instituted a Warden of the fiue Ports Hastings Douer Hith Rumney and Sandwiche to which Winchelsey and Rie the chiefe Hauens and other Townes are ioyned as members which haue great priuiledges because they are tied to serue in the warres and the Warden of them is alwaies one of the great Lords who within his iurisdiction hath in most things the authority of Admirall and other rights Detford Towne is well knowne where the Kings ships are built and repaired and there is a notable Armory or storehouse for the Kings Nauy Not farre from thence vpon the shore lie the broken ribs of the ship in which Sir Francis Drake sailed round about the World reserued for a monument of that great action Greenewich is beautified with the Kings Pallace Eltham another house of the Kings is not farre distant The Towne
Dancasler are well knowne but of all other Hallifax is most famous for the Priuiledges and the rare Law by which any one found in open theft is without delay beheaded and boasteth that Iohn de sacrobosco of the Holy Wood who writ of the Sphere was borne there Wakefield is a famous Towne for making Woollen cloth Pontfreit named of the broken bridge is a towne fairely built and hath a Castle as stately built as any can be named Neere the little Village Towton are the very Pharsalian fields of England which did neuer see in any other place so great Forces and so many Nobles in Armes as here in the yeere 1461 when in the ciuill warres the faction of Yorke in one battell killed fiue and thirty thousand of the Lancastrian faction Neere the Castle Knarshorow is the Fountaine called Droppingwell because the waters distill by drops from the rockes into which any wood being cast it hath been obserued that in short space it is couered with a stony rinde and hardens to a stone Rippen had a most flourishing Monastery where was the most famous needle of the Archbishop Wilfred It was a narrow hole by which the chastity of women was tried the chaste easily passing through in but others being detained and held fast I know not by what miracle or art Neare the little towne Barrobridge is a place where stand foure Pyramides the Trophces of the Romans but of 〈◊〉 workmanship Yorke the chiefe Citie of the Brigantes is the second of all England and the seate of an Archbishop The Emperour Constantius Chlorus died there and there begat his sonne Constantine the great of his first wife Helena whereof may be gathered how much this scare of the Emperours flourished in those daies By a Pall or Archbishops cloake sent from Pope Honorius it was made a Metropolitan Citie ouer twelue Bishops in England and al the Bishops of Scotland but some fiue hundred yeeres past all Scotland fell from this Metropolitan feare and it selfe hath so deuoured the next Bishoprickes as now it onely hath primacy ouer foure English Bishops of Durham of Chester of Carlile and the Bishop of the I le of man Henry the eight did here institute a Councell as he did also in Wales not vnlike the Parliaments of France to giue arbitrary iustice to the Northerne inhabitants consisting of a President Counsellors as many as the King shall please to appoint a Secretary c. Hull a well knowne Citie of trade lyes vpon the Riuer Humber where they make great gaine of the Iseland fish called Stockfish Vpon the very tongue called Spurnchead of the Promontory which Ptolomy calles Ocellum vulgarly called Holdernesse is a place famous by the landing of Henry the fourth Scarborrough is a famous Castle where in the sea is great fishing of Herrings 48 Richmondshire had of old the same inhabitants and the Mountaines plentifully yeeld leade pit-coales and some brasse vpon the tops whereof stones are found which haue the figures of shelfishes and other fishes of the neighboring sea Neare the Brookes Helbechs as infernal are great heards of Goates Fallow and Red-Deare and Harts notable for their greatnesse and the spreading of their hornes Richmond is the chiefe Citie of the County 49 The Bishoprick of Durham had of old the same inhabitants and the land is very gratefull to the plower striuing to passe his labour in fruitfulnesse It is pleasant in Meadowes Pastures and groues and yeelds great plenty of digged Coales called Sea-coales The Bishops were of old Counts Palatine and had their royall rightes so as Traytors goods sell to them not to the Kings Edward the first tooke away these priuiledges and Edward the sixth dissolued the Bishopricke till Queene Mary restored all to the Church which it inioies to this day but the Bishop in Queene Elizabeths time challenging the goods of the Earle of Westmerland rebelling the Parliament interposed the authority therof and for the time iudged those goods to be confiscated towards the Queenes charge in subduing those Rebels Durham is the chiefe City of that County 50 Lancashire had of old the same inhabitants and hath the title of a Palatinate Manchester an old towne faire and wel inhabited rich in the trade of making woollen cloth is beautified by the Market-place the Church and Colledge and the clothes called Manchester Cottons are vulgarly knowne Vpon the Sea-coast they power water vpon heapes of sand till it get saltnesse and then by seething it make white Salt There be some quicksands wherein footemen are in danger to be wrecked especially at the mouth of Cocarus Lancaster the chiefe Towne hath the name of the Riuer Lone The Dukes of this County obtained the Crowne of England and Henrie the seuenth Duke of Lancaster vnited this Dutchy to the Crowne instituting a Court of Officers to administer the same namely a Chauncelor of the Dutchy an Attorny a Receiuer a Clarke of the Court sixe Assistants a Pursuiuant two Auditors twenty three Receiuers and three ouerseers 51 Westmerland had of old the same inhabitants and Kendale the chiefe Towne well inhabited is famous for making of woollen cloth 52 Cumberland had of old the same inhabitants and hath mines of Brasse and vaines of siluer in all parts yeelding blacke leade vsed to draw black lines Carleile a very ancient City is the seate of a Bishop In this County still appeare the ruines of a wall which the Romans built to keepe out the Pictes from making incursions being so poore as they cared not to subdue them And the Emperike Surgeons that is of experience without learning of Scotland come yeerely to those fields of the borders to gather hearbs good to heale wounds and planted there by the bordering souldiers of the Romans the vertue of which herbs they wonderfully extoll 53 Northumberland was of old inhabited by the Ottadini and the inhabitants of our time now exercising themselues in warre against the Scots now resisting their incursions vpon these borders are very warlike and excellent light Horsemen In very many places this County yeelds great quantity of Sea coales Newcastle is a faire and rich City well fortified against the incursions of the bordering Scots whence aboundance of Sea coales is transported into many parts Barwicke is the last and best fortified Towne of all Britany in which a Garrison of Souldiers was maintained against the incursions of the Scots till the happy Raigne of Iames King of England and Scotland To describe breefly the Ilands of England In the narrow Sea into which the Seuerne fals are two little Ilands 1 Fatholme and 2 Stepholme and the 3 Iland Barry which gaue the name to the Lord Barry in Ireland There is also the 4 Iland Caldey and that of 5 Londay much more large hauing a little Towne of the same name and belonging to Deuonshire On the side vpon Pembrookeshire are the Ilands 6 Gresholme 7 Stockholme and 8 Scalmey yeelding grasse and wild thime Then Northward followes 9 Lymen called Ramsey by
the English and Saint Dauids Ilands right ouer against the seate of the Bishop of Saint Dauy. Next is the 10 Iland called Enhly by the Welsh Britans and Berdsey as the I le of Birds by the English wherein they report that twenty thousand Saints lie buried Next lies 11 Mona that is the shadowed or dusky Iland which after many yeeres being conquered by the English was by them called Anglesey as the Iland of the English It is a most noble Iland the old seate of the Druides Priests so called of old and so fruitfull as it is vulgarly called the Mother of Wales the cheefe Towne whereof is Beaumarish Neere that lies 12 Prestholme that is the Priests Iland whereof the Inhabitants and Neighbours make incredible reports for the multitude of Sea Fowle there breeding Next followes 13 Mona or Monoeda as the farther Mona which we call the I le of Man the Inhabitants whereof are like the Irish in language and manners but haue something of the Norway men It yeeldes abundantly Flaxe and Hempe hath pleasant Pastures and Groues and is fruitfull of Barly Wheate and especially of Oates the people feeding on Oaten bread in all parts are multitudes of Cattle but it wants wood and for fier vseth a kind of Turffe Russia which of the Castle we call Castle-Towne is the cheefe Towne and hath a Garrison of Souldiers but Duglas is the most frequented and best inhabited Towne because it hath an excellent Hauen easie to be entered In the Westerne part Bala-curi is the seate of the Bishop vnder the primacy of the Archbishop of Yorke and there is the Fort called the Pyle wherein a garrison of Souldiers is kept Vpon the Southerne Promontory lies a little Iland called the Calfe of Man which aboundeth with Sea Birds called Puffins and a kind of Duckes engendered of rotten wood which the English call Barnacles In generall the Inhabitants haue their proper Tongue and Lawes and had their proper Coyne They abhorre from stealing and from begging and are wonderfully religious generally and most readily conforming themselues at this day to the Church of England and the people in the Northerne part speake like Scots and in the Southerne part like Irish. Edwin King of Northumberland subdued the Northerne people and subiected them to the Crowne of England yet with many changes of Fortune this Iland long had their owne Kings euen since the Normans conquered England and since the time that Iohn King of England passing into Ireland by the way subdued this Iland about the yeere 1210 till the Kingdome came to the Scots in the yeere 1266. After that time Mary the daughter of Reginald the last laid claime to the Iland before the King of England as supreme Lord of Scotland and when sheecould not preuaile William Montague her Kinseman tooke the Iland of Man by force which his Heire sold for a great summe of money in the yeere 1393 to William Scroope who being beheaded for Treason the Iland fell by right to Henry the fourth King of England who assigned the same to Henry Pearcy Earle of Northumberland with prouiso that he and his Heires at the coronation of the Kings of England should carry the Sword vulgarly called Lancaster Sword before the King but the same Persey being also killed in ciuill warre the King gaue that Iland to Stanlye from whom discend the Earles of Darby who kept the same till Ferdinand Earle of Darby dying without heire male and the Earledome falling to his Brother but this Iland to his Daughters as Heires generall Queene Elizabeth thinking it vnfit that Women should bee set ouer her Souldiers there in garrison gaue the keeping thereof to Sir Thomas Gerrard But King Iames the foureteenth of August in the fifth yeere of his Raigne granted by Letters Pattents this Iland with all things thereunto appertaining to Henry Earle of Northampton and Robert Earle of Saltsbury their Heires and Assignes for euer they vpon doing homage for the same presenting his Maiesty with two Falcons and his Heires and Successours at their Coronation in like sort with two Falcons And howsoeuer no vse or intent of this grant be mentioned in these Letters Pattents yet no doubt the grant was made to the vse of those vpon whose humble petition to his Maiesty the Letters Pattents were granted as therein is expressely declared namely of William Lord Stanly Earle of Darby heire male to Iohn Lord Stanly and of Elizabeth Countesse of Huntington Anne wife to the Lord Chandois and Francis wife to Sir Iohn Egerton Knight being the Heires generall of the said Iohn Lord Stanly The famous Riuer Thames fals into the German Ocean ouer against Zeland and before it fals into the same makes the 14 Iland Canuey vpon the Coast of Essex so low as it is often ouerflowed all but some higher hils to which the sheepe retire being some foure thousand in number the flesh whereof is of delicate taste and they are milked by young men Neere that is the 15 Iland Sheppey so called of the sheepe wherein is Quinborrough a most faire Castle kept by a Constable Without the mouth of Thames lie the shelfes or sands dangerous to Sea men which of the greatest are all called Goodwin sands where they say an Iland the patrimony of the same Earle Goodwinn was deuoured by the Sea in the yeere 1097. In the Britan Sea lies the 16 I le of Wight hauing in the Sea most plentifull fishing and the Land being so fruitfull as they export Corne besides that in all parts it hath plenty of Conies Hares Partridges and Feasanes and hath also two Parkes of Fallow Deare Also the sheepe feeding there vpon the pleasant hils yeeld wool in goodnesse next to the Fleeces of Lemster and Cotswold Flockes It hath sixe and thirty Townes and Castles and the Ecclesiasticall Iurisdiction thereof belongs to the Bishop of Wintchester Towards the West lie other Ilands pretented to be French but subiect to England namely 17 Gerzey whither condemned men were of old banished 18 Garnsey neither so great nor so fruitful but hauing a more commodious Hauen vpon which lies the Towne of Saint Peter both Ilands burne a weede of the Sea or Sea coales brought out of England and both speake the French Language I omit the seuen Iles called Siadae and others adioyning and will onely adde that the Ilands lie neere Cornewall which the Greekes called Hesperides the English call Silly and the Netherlanders call Sorlings being in number some 145 more or lesse whereof some yeeld Wheate all abound with Conies Cranes Swannes Hirnshawes and other Sea Birdes The greatest of them is called Saint Mary and hath a Castle wherein Souldiers lie in Garrison committed in our time to the keeping of Sir Francis Godolphin and after to his sonne Sir William Godolphin being of a noble Family in Cornewall Also many of the said Ilands haue vaines of Tynne and from hence was Leade first carried into Greece and the Roman Emperours banished condemned men hither to
ciuill warres I omit the Kings and Queenes Counties namely Ophaly and Leax inhabited by the Oconnors and Omores as likewise the Counties of Longford Fernes and Wicklo as lesse affoording memorable things 3 The third part of Ireland is Midia or Media called by the English Methe in our Fathers memory deuided into Eastmeath and Westmeath In Eastmeath is Drogheda vulgarly called Tredagh a faire and well inhabited Towne Trym is a little Towne vpon the confines of Vlster hauing a stately Castle but now much ruinated and it is more notable for being the ancient as it were Barrony of the Lacies Westmeath hath the Towne Deluin giuing the title of Baron to the English Family of the Nugents and Westmeath is also inhabited by many great Irish Septs as the Omaddens the Magoghigans Omalaghlens and MacCoghlans which seeme barbarous names Shamon is a great Riuer in a long course making many and great lakes as the large Lake or Lough Regith and yeeldes plentifull fishing as doe the frequent Riuers and all the Seas of Ireland Vpon this Riuer lies the Towne Athlon hauing a very faire Bridge of stone the worke of Sir Henry Sidney Lord Deputy and a strong faire Castle 4 Connaght is the fourth part of Ireland a fruitfull Prouince but hauing many Boggs and thicke Woods and it is diuided into sixe Countyes of Clare of Letrim of Galloway of Rosecomen of Maio and of Sugo The County of Clare or Thowmond hath his Enrles of Thowmond of the Family of the Obrenes the old Kings of Connaght and Toam is the seate of an Archbishop onely part but the greatest of this County was called Clare of Phomas Clare Earle of Glocester The adioyning Territory Clan Richard the land of Richards sonnes hath his Earles called Clanricard of the land but being of the English Family de Burgo vulgarly Burck and both these Earles were first created by Henry the eight In the same Territory is the Barony Atterith belonging to the Barons of the English Family Bermingham of old very warlike but their posteritie haue degenerated to the Irish barbarisme The city Galway giuing name to the County lying vpon the Sea is frequently inhabited with ciuill people and fairely built The Northern part of Connaght is inhabited by these Irish Septs O Conor O Rorke and Mac Diarmod Vpon the Westerne coast lyes the Iland Arran famous for the fabulous long life of the inhabitants 5 Vlster the fifth part of Ireland is a large Prouince woody fenny in some parts fertile in other parts barren but in al parts greene and pleasant to behold and exceedingly stoared with Cattell The next part to the Pale and to England is diuided into three Countyes Lowth Down and Antrimme the rest containes seuen Counties Monaghan Tyrone Armach Colrane Donergall Fermanagh and Cauon Lowth is inhabited by English-Irish Down and Antrimme being contained vnder the same name and the Barrons thereof be of the Berminghams family and remaine louing to the English Monaghan was inhabited by the English family Fitzursi and these are become degenerate and barbarous and in the sense of that name are in the Irish tongue called Mac Mahon that is the sonnes of Beares I forbeare to speake of Tyrone and the Earle thereof infamous for his Rebellion which I haue at large handled in the second part of this work Armach is the seate of an Archbishop and the Metropolitan City of the whole Iland but in time of the Rebellion was altogether ruinated The other Countyes haue not many memorable things therefore it shall suffice to speake of them briefely The neck of land called Lecale is a pleasant little territory fertile and abounding with fish and all things for food and therein is Downe at this time a ruined Towne but the seate of a Bishop and famous for the buriall of S Patrick S. Bridget and S. Columb The Towne of Carickfergus is well knowne by the safe Hauen The Riuer Bann running through the Lake Euagh into the Sea is famous for the fishing of Salmons the water being most cleare wherein the Salmons much delight The great Families or Septs of Vlster are thus named O Neale O Donnel wherof the chiefe was lately created Earle of Tirconnel O Buil Mac Guyre O Cane O Dogharty Mac Mahown Mac Gennis Mac Sorleigh c. The Lake Ern compassed with thicke Woods hath such plenty of fish as the fishermen feare the breaking of their nets rather then want of fish Towards the North in the middest of vast woods and as I thinke in the County Donergall is a lake and therein an Iland in which is a Caue famous for the apparition of spirits which the inhabitants call Ellanui frugadory that is The Iland of Purgatory and they call it Saint Patricks Purgatory fabling that hee obtained of God by prayer that the Irish seeing the paines of the damned might more carefully auoide sinne The land of Ireland is vneuen mountanous soft watry woody and open to windes and flouds of raine and so fenny as it hath Bogges vpon the very tops of Mountaines not bearing man or beast but dangerous to passe and such Bogs are frequent ouer all Ireland Our Matriners obserue the sayling into Ireland to be more dangerous not onely because many tides meeting makes the sea apt to swell vpon any storme but especially because they euer find the coast of Ireland couered with mists whereas the coast of England is commonly cleare and to be seene farre off The ayre of Ireland is vnapt to ripen seedes yet as Mela witnesseth the earth is luxurions in yeelding faire and sweete hearbs Ireland is little troubled with thunders lightnings or earthquakes yet I know not vpon what presage in the yeere 1601 and in the moneth of Nouember almost ended at the siege of Kinsale and few daies before the famous Battell in which the Rebels were happily ouerthrowne we did nightly heare and see great thundrings lightnings not without some astonishment what they should presage The fields are not onely most apt to feede Cattell but yeeld also great increase of Corne I wil freely say that I obserued the winters cold to be far more mild thē it is in England so as the Irish pastures are more greene and so likewise the gardens al winter time but that in Summer by reason of the cloudy ayre and watry soyle the heate of the Sunne hath not such power to ripen corne and fruits so as their haruest is much later then in England Also I obserued that the best sorts of flowers and fruits are much rarer in Ireland then in England which notwithstanding is more to bee attributed to the inhabitants then to the ayre For Ireland being oft troubled with Rebellions and the Rebels not only being idle themselues but in naturall malice destroying the labours of other men and cutting vp the very trees of fruits for the same cause or else to burne them For these reasons the inhabitants take lesse pleasure to till their grounds or plant trees content to
of Spaine Histories witnesse that some of these Prouinces did owe homage to the Empire and the rest to the King of France till they fell into the hands of the powerfull Dukes of Borgundy who by diuers transactions tooke all rights from the Kings of France and because the Empire hath been euer since in the House of Austria it cannot seeme strange the Kings of Spaine being of the same House that these Prouinces haue been freed of the homage due to the Empire The Emperour Charles the fifth happily gouerned these Prouinces with great iudgement handling the people gently who had alwaies been held vnder a gentle yoke by their Princes inioying great priuiledges inuiolably kept to them neuer vsed to absolute gouernement but hauing often taken Armes when their Princes imposed exactions vpon them or broke any of their priuiledges and so bringing their Princes to iust and equall termes But his son Phillip K. of Spaine and many other Kingdomes straying from his Fathers example in the gouernement of Netherland and obstinately despising his counsell which at his death as it were by his last Testament he gaue him to handle this people gently and not induring their voluntarie and free subiection hath caused the greater or at least the richer part of these Prouinces to fall from him and his heires For vpon the first dissention about Religion Pope Pius the fourth induced Phillip King of Spaine to publish a Decree in Netherland for the establishing of the infamous Inquisition first inuented in Spaine of late to punish the Iewes and Saracens who being Christians yet retained their owne rites and also for the execution of the Decrees made in the Councell of Trent which done more then 400 Gentlemen made petition to the King to abolish this decree and ioyning the intercession of the Emperor sent this petition to the King by the hands of diuers Lords and Gentlemen whereof the Prince of Egmond was one who had done the King very great seruice in the battell of Saint Quintens These petitioners were despised by the Spaniards and called Geuses that is beggers or poore slaues and the King sent them backe vnregarded and sent the Duke of Alua to go uern Netherland who cruelly raged against the Professors of the reformed religion beheaded the Prince of Egmond and the Earle of Horn both Knights of the golden fleece and on all sides proceeded butcherly In the meane time the Prince of Orange who formerly had in vaine perswaded the Prince of Egmond to fly foreseing this tiranny with other banished Geutlemen was gone out of Netherland and fled to the Prince of Condy in France At last the Duke of Alua hauing brought all in subiection reformed the policy and imposed an exaction of the tenth penny was recalled into Spaine whither he retourned with much treasure he had extorted and Don Iuvan of Austria succeeded in that Gouernment in whose time the fatal Ciuill warre began in Flaunders and shortly after mutinous troopes called Male contents ioined together neither acknowledging the King nor the States of the Prouinces and while Don Iunan pursued them he died in the Camp in the yeere 1578. Then Alexander Farnese Duke of Parma was made Gouernor of Netherland and the King persisting in his purpose to bring that people to absolute subiection and the Professors of the reformed religion being grieuously persecuted and all the people being murinously affected for the newe and tirannicall exaction of the tenth penny without consent of the generall States the troubles still continuing in Flaunders at last some few Prouinces hauing the Prince of Orange for their Generall in the warre strictly combined themselues in league for mutual defence So Flaunders and the firme land was left vnder the Spanish yoke but the confederate Prouinces firmly resoluing to cast off all subiection to the King of Spaine instituted a new forme of common wealth For the Prince of Orange wisely and variantly procuring the publike good was in the yeere 1584 traiterously slaine with a baller by a desperate Roague whereupon the cities of Flaunders lay open to the Duke of Parma But the foresaid vnited Prouinces cast themselues into the protection of the Queene of England and if my memory faile not they are thus named Holland Zealand Vtreiht Groning west Friesland besides many townes for Gelderland some fortes and strong cities of Brabant and Ostend in Flaunders a towne for neerenes fit to annoy the Enemy And the foresaid fortes and strong cities for the most part lying vpon the coast of the sea within land vpon the mouth of the Rheine where it fals into the sea gaue free traffick by sea to the vnited Prouinces forbad the same to the cities within land and besides yeelded this commodity that as the Spanish soldiers from their forts send frey booters to spoile the vnited countries of Gelderland Groning Friesland so the soldiers of the states might frōthence make incursiōs vpō the countries subiect to the King of Spaine wherby the country people were forced to pay large yeerly cōtributions to be free from this spoile The few inhabitants of these small Prouinces whome men will iudge but a breakefast to the Spanish Army notwithstanding haue not only bene able to this day to keepe out these powerfull forces from entring their territories but may iustly brag that they haue wonne many strong forts and townes from the Spaniard and carried their Army into Flaunders where in a field fought at Newport they obtained a glorious victory against the Spaniardes And so much in small progresse of time haue their iust and moderate Counsells increased their common-wealth gouerned with great equity and equality as at last forsaken as it were by the King of France for the time hauing little helpe from England they alone did not onely long defend themselues from the powerfull reuenge of the Spaniard but stoutly bearing out the warr to a wished peace are now no more to be pittied but in common iudgment rather to be enuied and feared by their neighbours Mention hath bene made of the Prince of Orange and hereafter mention is to be made of his sonne Count Maurice therefore it will not be amisse to say somthing of this noble family The vnited Prouinces consisting of citizens and the common people there being few Gentlemen in Friesland and few or none in Holland and Zeland and such kind of Plebean men vnfit to leade Armies they aswell for the common-wealths sake first tooke the Prince of Orange for their head as after for thankfulnes to him much esteemed the Family of Nassaw and besides others of that Family gouerning in Friesland and other parts made choise of the said Princes sonne Count Maurice to be General of their Army but with limited power from the States and he hath a double as I thinke voice in their publike meetings in which notwithstanding hee seldome or neuer vsed to be present His father the Prince of Orange had all his
wine stinking drinke and filthy beds and were not the way free from robberies and the people curteous I know not what other inconuenience might happen to a stranger in any passage Your diet shall be for most part of cole worts which was so strange to me and so hard of digestion as it greatly troubled me and wrought vpon my body like physicke At Brunswike I saw a lamentable sight which I dare scarce relate to you knowing your tendernes in those cases yet for promise sake I must tell you that I saw a very faire maide of fifteene yeeres married to mine Host an old ohurle of seuenty yeeres Be not discouraged I will tell you a merry accident Who would haue thought that my companions had dissembled so long their malice to mee that now it might breake forth with more bitternes You know Brunswike is a free city of the Empire and one of those which for priuiledge of trafficke vpon these coasts are called Hans-steten Here out of custome passengers comming at first to enter trafficke vse to giue the wine to the old Merchants to which custome gentlemen for sociablenes haue submitted themselues so as the custome is almost growne into a Law Now for this purpose salt being put about the table for all to sweare whether they were free or no I confessed that I had not yet paied for my freedome yeelding my self to their censure To be briefe after they had fined me some cannes of wine and with many ceremonies had made me free it remained that he whom they had chosen to be my God-father making a graue Oration with some rude ieasts after their fashion should instruct me with some precepts how to recouer this expence One of my companions easily tooke this charge vpon him and after many circumstances he concluded in this manner You are an Englishman and because your countrey men loue to sit easily and to fare delicately I aduise you that both at table and in coach you be carefull to take the best place which if you be diligent to performe you shall bee soone satisfied for this expence By chance my place then at table was betweene the coach-man and his seruant for you know the Dutch are not curious of place and little regard strangers in that kinde but I knew where my Gentlemans shooe wrung him namely in that I had chosen my place in the coach And thus I answered him Sir I take thankefully your graue counsell and will make vse of it but me thinkes it is too generall making no distinction of degrees for if I haue Gentlemen to my companions who are not willingly ouercome in courtesie I should rather yeeld them place but if I fall into base and clownish company I will not faile to make vse of your counsell The Gentlemen at Table smiled and so we ended this ceremony with a health Hence I passed to Lunchurg and so to Hamburg where the people after dinner warmed with drinke are apt to wrong any stranger and hardly indure an English-man in the morning when they are sober Therefore without any stay I passed hence to Stode It is strange how the people raile on English-men in these parts For that which we call warre at sea and the royall Nauy that they terme robbery and Pirats ships neither haue they the patience to heare any iustification or excuse You see what toyes I write rather then I will leaue you vnsaluted and if you vse not like freedome to me farewell friendship So I take my leaue from Stode the first of October 1592. From Stode I passed to Emden and for the better explaning of that iourney giue mee leaue to prefix the following Letter out of the due place being written from Emden and directed To AEgidius Hoffman a Gentleman of Flaunders my deare friend Student at Heidelberg NOble AEgidius the Letters you gaue me to deliuer at Breme haue produced a comicall euent such may all the passages be of our loue which you shall vnderstand in a word When in my purposed iourney I came to Stode more tired with the base companions I had then the way it happened whilest I spent some dayes there with my friends euery man spake of Spanish theeues vulgarly called Freebooters who stealing out of their Garrisons vpon the Low-countries lay in the villages and vpon the high-wayes by which I was to passe in my iourney to Emden from which Citie a Merchant was newly arriued who terrified me more then all the rest affirming that in one day he had fallen thrice into these cut-throtes hands and though he were of a neutrall City yet had paied many Dollers for his ransome adding that they inquired curiously after English-men promising rewards in the villages to any man should giue them notice when any such passed I knew not what counsell to take There was no lesse danger from the Pirats of Dunkirke if I passed by sea especially in a ship of Hamburg no other being in the harbour they being like to betray me out of malice to our nation Besides the weather was very tempestious not like to change Therefore my obstinate purpose to see the Cities vpon this coast made me resolue to goe by land So I bought an old Brunswicke thrummed hat and made mee a poore Dutch suite rubbing it in the dust to make it seeme old so as my Taylor said he took more paines to spoyle it then to make it I bought me linnen stockings and discoloured my face and hands and so without cloake or sword with my hands in my hose tooke my place in a poore waggon I practised as much as I could Pythagoricall silence but if any asked me who I was I told him that I was a poore Bohemian and had long serued a Merchant at Leipzig who left mee to dispatch some businesse at Stode and then commanded me to follow him to Emden If you had seene my seruile countenance mine eyes cast on the ground my hands in my hose and my modest silence you would haue taken me for a harmelesse yong man Many pleasant euents happened to me thus disguised wherewith I will not trouble you onely one I am tied to impart to you When I came to Breme I was doubtfull what to doe with your Letters I thought not to deliuer them but keepe them till a fitter time or at least to send them by a messenger But in so doing I should haue broken my promise to you haue lost the fruit of your recommendation and the opportunity to see your mother and sisters without hope hereafter to see them Then I thought to deliuer them and because I was disguised in base apparell to confesse who I was and wherefore so disguised But when I looked my face in a glasse I could not for shame take this course At last I resolued to deliuer them and to say I was seruant to my selfe wherein I lyed not for I haue euer too much obeyed my owne affections and that my master meaning to passe from Stode by
sea for feare of the abouesaid dangers had sent me by land with command to stay for him at Leyden To bee briefe I went to your mothers house where a seruant opened mee the doore to whom I gaue your Letters but when he scarce looking at me would haue locked the doore I took my Letters againe saying I had promised to deliuer them with my owne hand and so I entred with him and gaue them into the hands of your mother and sister who inquired much after you and so much after my master as I might perceiue you had made friendly mention of me in your Letters They entertained me with much curtesie being thus disguised for my owne seruant and when I went away your mother would needs giue mee six batzen to spend neither would any refusall preuaile but I must needs take them So I set a marke vpon these peeces left I should spend them and am not out of hope ere I die to shew them to you To the purpose at the dore I met your brother whom I had seene at Frankfort and was not a little afraide left for all my disguising he would haue knowne me Let it not trouble you that I tell you another merry accident I had in the same City of Breme Disguised as I was I went to the house of Doctor Penzelius desiring to haue the name of so famous a Diuine written in my stemme-booke with his Mott after the Dutch fashion Hee seeing my poore habite and a booke vnder my arme tooke me for some begging Scholler and spake sharpely vnto me But when in my masters name I had respectiuely saluted him and told him my request he excused his mistaking and with all curtesie performed my desire I will trouble you no longer but hope by some good occasion to imbrace you tell you all the other passages of my iourney In the meane time I go forward to Leyden in Holland you as you do euer loue me and as my soule liue and farewell From Emden the twenty one of October 1592. I paied twenty foure Stiuers for my passage eleuen miles in a waggon from Stode to Breme And the first day after breakefast wee passed three miles to Ford a poore Citie subiect to the Bishop of Breme through wilde fenny and woody grounds The Towne is seated in a Fenne hauing a long paued Causey to passe vnto it and the gate being opened to vs by night each man gaue the Porter two Lubeck shillings and by the way in a village ' each man paied six Fenning for his person At Ford the Bishop of Breme hath a Castle strongly fortified with Rampiers of earth and deepe ditches full of water and here each man paied for his supper three Lubeck shillings and a halfe The waggoner taking me thus disguised as formerly I haue said for a poore Bawre said these words to me in Dutch Du knecht hilff zu tragen die packe hye that is Ho good fellow helpe here to carry this pack I answered ya gar gern yea most willingly and smiling laied my shoulder to the burthen and groned deepely but helped him very little Next morning early by Moone light we passed on three miles through large and wilde woods to a Countrey house and by the way my companions fell in talke of English affaires so foolishly as my laughter though restrained had often betraied me if twi-light had not kept mee from being seene Their ignorance greatly shortned my way with the pleasure I took in their answeres to some such questions propounded by me whereof my selfe had many times beene forced to giue an account to others By the way they shewed mee a Hill called Meineidig of certaine false witnesses of old sinking there into the ground At this Countrey house each man paied for his breakfast three Lubeck shillings and a halfe Then from sixe of the clocke in the morning till nine we passed fiue miles to Breme through an Heath and many huge Woods of Oake hauing towards the South a Fenne of tenne miles length which of the vastnesse and wildenesse is called the Diuels Fenne By the way within a mile of Breme each man paied halfe a Sesling tribute to the officers of the City and from thence wee passed a winding paued Causey to the very City Men may also passe from Hamburg to Breme by water This Citie is one of the Imperiall free Cities and of them which vpon this Sea-coast are called Hans-steten for freedome of trafficke and it is very strongly fortified with high walles of earth and deepe ditches filled with water besides that the Citizens may drowne the Fenny fields almost round about at pleasure The building of this as also of the neighbour Cities is partly of bricke partly of stone and very faire but the streets heere are filthy The Citie is fiue miles distant from the sea And the riuer Visurgis running from the South east to the North VVest by the South west side of the City runneth al the length of the same On the North east side the walles of earth are broad and there bee three faire gates with strong Rampiers Vpon the South West side being compassed all with Fennes there bee no walles In the furthest angle or corner towards the North west where the City growes narrow there is a strong Fort built the gate is within an Iland beyond which lies a plaine of faire pastures Osen-bridge lies not farre hence from which towne great quantity of narrow linnen cloth is brought into England At Breme I paied halfe a Doller for dinner supper and breakfast and a stiebkin or measure of wine extraordinary They had heere also the custome of making strangers free and the same ceremony of giuing salt to sweare by and I confessing that I was not free committed my fine to their censure hoping they would deale better with mee for my poore disguised habit but it saued me nothing the chiefe man saying to mee in Dutch Gutt gesell du must gedult haben es geit gleich bistu knecht oder here deise gewonheit betrefft beyde zu gleich That is good fellow thou must haue patience it is all one whether thou beest a seruant or a master this custome toucheth both alike After dinner taking my iourney from Breme wee passed a mile vpon a stony Causey called Steinweck that is stony way and there each man paied to the officers of Breme a quarter of a Stiuer Then entering the Territory of the Graue that is Count of Oldenburg we passed a mile through faire pastures compassed with ditches of water to a village where each man paid a Sesling to the Count and to this place each man paid for his Waggon fiue groates Here when my companions had drunke their fill and had slept a while in the straw as my selfe did vpon a bench to shun the stinking heat of the stoue we hyred another waggon for three miles paying fifteene groats and that we might more securely passe wee tooke our iourney
dispensation on their side Therefore let the Papists feare to giue their followers leaue to heare vs in our Schooles or Churches lest they be chained with the force of truth And let vs securely permit our men to passe into the heart of Italy so they be first of ripe yeeres and well instructed Vpon my word they run no other danger then the escaping the snares of the Inquisition of which discretion I shall speake at large in the foure and twentieth Precept of Dissimulation in the next Chapter If any man obiect that some of our young Schollers haue passed into their Seminaries beyond the Seas let him consider that they were not seduced abroad but first infected at home in their parents houses and our Vniuersities which mischiefe Parents and Magistrates ought to preuent by keeping the suspected at home for the rest there is no danger But behold when I thought to haue finished my taske carpers consumed with enuie who barke at trauellers as dogs at the Moone and thinking to gaine reputation by other mens disgrace they are not ashamed to say that vagabond Caine was the first Traueller Old Writers I confesse sometimes vse the word of Perigrination for banishment but God be praised here is no question made of banished or cursed men driuen out from the sight of God They which spend the greater part of their yeeres in forraigne places as it were in voluntary banishment may more instly bee compared to Caine and are not vnlike to rude Stage players who to the offence of the beholders spend more time in putting on their apparrell then in acting their Comedy for life is compared to a stage and our Parents and Kins-men expecting our proofe to the beholders Therefore it is fit to restraine this course within due limits to which the Romans as Suetonius writes prescribed perhaps too strictly three yeeres In the last place they that detract from Trauellers to the end they may choke vs with our owne disdaine if not with arguments send out their spyes in their last skirmish to cast this Dart at vs. After so many dangers and troubles how many of you after your returne are preferred in the Common-wealth To what purpose doe you tire your selues in attaining so many vertues Is it to exercise them leaning on a plowmans or shepheards staffe I should enter a most spacious field of common griefe if I should search the causes why in our age great part of the Counsellours of States and Peeres of Realmes rather desire to haue dull and slothfull companions then those that are wise and ambitious and so in like sort rather base and expert ready seruants then those thot are free and learned Knowledge puffeth vp and I remember of late a learned Physician who being sent for by a great Lord and he being offended at his long stay freely and boldly answered that knowledge could not dance attendance Hence is our calamity to omit the more curious search of this euill whose first encounter astonisheth me though I am not ignorant of the cause but let him that cast this Dart tell me whether this ill be uot common to all men of vertue and if it be so he must at least confesse with the Poet Solamen miser is socios habuisse doloris Partners in griefe doe solace giue And let all rare men in any kind of vertue when they are despised or neglected comfort themselues with this Phylosophicall precept of Aristotle that vertue is desired for it selfe not for any thing else So I say the fruit of trauell is trauell it selfe Hauing thus retorted our enemies weapons vpon their owne breasts because the common sort is more moued with examples then arguments it remaines that in the last place I should adorne the triumph of this vertuous industry with some few and speciall examples Many have beene found who haue passed into remote parts of the World onely to gaine health farre greater is the number of them who as the Poet saith Pauperiem fugiunt vltra Garamant as Indos Who further runne to shunne base pouerty Then Garamants and Indians doely And greatest is the number of them who following the standard of ambition haue pierced to the very gates of hell with sound of Drummes and Trumpets To conclude as diligent Merchants gather precious wares into one storehouse so Phylophers haue from the first ages of the World passed by flockes into forraigne parts to gaine knowledge as the Egyptians into Chaldea the Greekes into Egypt and the Romans into Greece Pythagorus walked sarre and neere not onely to learne but also in diuers places to get Disciples whom he might teach for the Poet saith well Scire tuum nihil est nisi te scire hoc sciat alter To know auaileth thee no whit If no man know thou knowest it To be briefe if wee will credit old monuments which I confesse to suspect hee came in person and sowed the precepts of his Phylosophy euen among the Britaines deuided from all the World Plato hath written some-what too seuerely against Trauellers perhaps like Alexander the Great who was angry with his Master Aristotle because hee had published the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which hee had read vnto him thereby leauing him nothing wherein he might excell others so Plato hauing gotten the name of Diuine by his very trauels would forbid or limit the same to others that he might shine among the Phylosophers Velut inter stellas Luna minores As the bright Moone among the lesser starres It is most certaine that hee was not onely industrious but euen curious in this course so as he sayled into Sicily the entrance of which Iland was vpon paine of death forbidden to strangers onely that he might see the burning of the Mountaine AEtna Apelles by drawing of a most subtile lyne at Rhodes was made knowne to Protogenes Homer being blind yet ceased not to trauell In our Age they which are renowned at home for any Art are not content therewith except they may passe into forraigne Courts to make knowne their skill The most ancient Lawgiuers got the experience by which they had rule in their Cities not by secure study at home but by aduenturous trauels abroad as the Poet saith Ingenium mala saepe mouent Aduersities doe often whet our wits Moyses Orpheus Draco Solon Mines Rhadamanthus Licurgus and almost all the Consuls of Rome themselues had beene in forraigne parts and granted ample priuiledges to strangers Among Physicians we read that Esculapius and Hypocrates trauelled and that Galene was at Smyrna Corinth Alexandria in Palestine at Lemnos Ciprus and at Rome and Auicenna boasteth that he had passed through the whole World I know that many in our Vniuersities become learned Physicians but no doubt they would haue beene more learned if they had passed into forraigne parts One Land yeeldeth not all things A man shall hardly learne at home the diuers natures of hearbes and other things or the diuers dispositions of one and the same body according to
the difference of the clyme aire and diet This the Spaniard wittily obserued who hauing got the French Pox sayled into America and did there learne the cure of that disease from those who first infected the Spaniards therewith We praise Physicians especially for experience as Lawyers for diligence desiring to haue an old Physician and a young Lawyer to giue vs counsell and follow our businesse but experience is of seuerall things dispersed through the vniuersall World It is written that of old the AEgyptians had seuerall Physicians for each seuerall disease who would not haue returned more learned from their Lectures Also they laid vp approued remedies of diseases in the Temples of Isis and Vulcane What Scholler then returning from AEgypt should not haue gained great reputation to his skill and we know that opinion many times auaileth with the sicke euen more then the medicine In this sort ambitious men of old by the onely opinion of their experience by seeing the world did obtaine to be numbered among the Gods Iupiter of Creta in Italy Bacchus in the furthest East Hercules in the most remote parts of Africke towards the West planted monuments of their trauels The voyage of the Argonautes the wanderings of Vlisses and AEneas are sung by all Ballad-sellers Alexander the Great passed the monument of Bacchus in the East It were infinite onely to name the Roman Emperours who excelled in this industry For as the Wiseman said that he was a Citizen of the World so the Romans by giuing remote Princes the priuiledge to be Citizens of Rome and by sending Roman Citizens in Colonies to inhabit remote places vsed the whole World for a City neither did they euer admit any to the highest dignities in the City of Rome nor yet to the inferiour Magistrates thereof who had not first borne rule or Office in some remote Prouince One Iulius Caesar came saw and ouercame with his Army among the Cimbrians Germans Spaniards Britans Grecians Africans and those of Asia The very Westerne Emperours of later times haue been enflamed with the same desire Charles the Great made happy warre beyond the Pyrenean mountaines against the Sarrasens beyond the Alpes against the Lombards and in Germany against the Saxons Who hath not heard of the European Princes like so many Floods carrying Armies into the East To omit all other for I desire to be briefe Charles the fifth inferiour to none of his Predecessours and emulous of Hercules himselfe passed his pillars at the furthest straight of the Mediteranean Sea and added to his Armes the Mot of Hercules Non plus vlira No farther beyond this onely leauing out the first word Non because he had passed the limits of Hercules as Alexander the Great had done those of Bacchus Whereby notwithstanding some thinke that he did rather blemish then increase the fame of his trauels since that part of Africke was so neere adioyning to his Kingdomes of Spaine but in the meane time they forget that he was borne at Gaunt in Flaunders Methinkes I haue said enough and too much in so cleere a cause therefore I will onely adde some choyce examples of the holy Scriptures and so conclude Abraham left his Countrey at Gods command and went to the Land of Promise called also the Land of Pilgrimage Iacob serued for his wiues in Mesopotamia and in his old age passed into AEgypt The Israelites were brought by large circuit from the seruitude of AEgypt into the Land of Promise that the protection of God might by aduersity be more imprinted in their minds and they be more stirred vp to keepe the Lawes of so gracious a God The example of a woman the Queen of Sheba is famous who came to Ierusalem to be an eye and eare witnesse of Salomons wisdome To be briefe Christ himselfe liued in the flesh as a Pilgrim choosing no set place of aboad when he was in the Cradle three Wisemen came from the East to worship him and himselfe being an Infant was carried into Egypt to shunne Herods tyranny He commanded his Apostles to preach the Gospell throughout the World Among the Fathers Saint Augustine wished to haue seene three things Christ in the flesh Paul in the Pulpit and Rome in the flower In our Age the Turkes and Papists so madly affect Pilgrimages as they superstitiously thinke the same auaileable to the saluation of their soules with which extreame least I should seeme to know no meane I wil conclude these examples For my part I thinke variety to be the most pleasing thing in the World and the best life to be neither contemplatiue alone nor actiue altogether but mixed of both God would haue made eternall spring had he not knowne that the diuers-seasons would be not onely most profitable to the workes of nature but also most plesant to his creatures while the cold Winter makes the temperate Spring more wished Such is the delight of visiting forraigne Countreys charming all our sences with most sweet variety They seeme to me most vnhappy and no better then Prisoners who from the cradle to old age still behold the same wals faces orchards pastures and obiects of the eye and still heare the same voices and sounds beate in their eares Not the song of the Cuckow nor the craking of the Crowes nor the howling of Wolues nor the bellowing of Oxen nor the bleying of Sheepe no nor the sweet voyces of Larkes and Nightingales if they be shut vp in a Cage doe so much please vs at home as the variety of all composed of diuers tunes delights vs in the fields abroad In like sort it is manifest that all the other sences are not so much pleased with any thing as variety They are in some measure happy who hauing but one house yet haue change of chambers to remoue as the season of the yeere changeth but I iudge Lawyers and Officers more happy who haue their Termes to liue in the City and their Vacations to returne into the Countrey so often as it were renewing their marriage dayes And of all I iudge the Nomades most happy the comparison holding in other things who liue in Tents and so by remouing not onely escape the heat of Summer the cold of Winter the want of pastures all diseases and all vnpleasing things but at their pleasure enioy all commodities of all places Let vs imitate the Storkes Swallowes and Cranes which like the Nomades yeerely fetch their circuits and follow the Sunne without suffering any distemper of the seasons The fixed Starres haue not such power ouer inferiour bodies as the wandring Planets Running water is sweet but standing pooles stinke Take away Idlenes and the bate of all vice is taken away Men were created to moue as birds to flie what they learne by nature that reason ioined to nature teacheth vs. Nothing can be added to the worthy praises of him as the Poet suith Qui Mores hominum multorum vidit vrbes Who many Mens manners hath seene And hath in many
at Harlem was first made And of these tnrffes they make fiers both cleere and of good smell without smoke and commodious to dresse meat to starch linnen and like vses They are notable Marriners yet in that to be blamed that being at Sea they vse no publike prayers that euer I heard And seuerall Cities haue great numbers of ships wherein they trade with such Industry and subtilty as they are in that point enuied of till Nations The very Italians who in foreseeing wisdome would bee accounted Promethei were by them made Epimethei wise after the deed too late repenting that when they came first to settie their trade in Flaunders they tooke youug youths of that Nation to bee their Cassiers who by writing letters for them learned the secrets of that trade and after to the Italians great preiudice exercised it themselues Some three Flemmings brethren or partners vse to settle themselues in as many Cities of great trade where they keepe such correspondency as by buying all things at the well head where they are cheapest and transporting them farre off where they are dearest and especially by liuing sparingly both in dyet and apparrell and not shaming to retaile any commodity in small parts which great Merchants disdaine to sell otherwise then by whole sale they haue attained the highest knowledge and riches of trading Thus they buy rawe silke of the Turkes and weaue the same into diuers stusses in Italy which they sell not there but transport them into England and the Northerne parts where they beare highest price and there retaile them by the smallest proportions They haue of their owne very fine Linnen and Woollen cloathes of diuers kindes and many clothes of Cotton Arras hangings plenty of Hops aswell on the Sea-coast of Beabant as in the East part of Holland and great store of Butter Cheese and Fish salted and dryed all which they transport Againe they bring from Dantzke store of Hemp whereof themselues make Ropes and Cables neither transport they any rude matter but by working it at home inrich many populous Cities Also from Dantzke they bring corne all kindes of pitch and other commodities of that place and from Italy many kindes of silke stuffies Also by the diligent fishing especially of Hertings on the Sea-coast of England they grow rich selling the same to all Nations and to the very English who are not so industrious in that trade Lastly they draw the commodities of all Nations to them and fetch them from the very Indies and in like sort they transport them to the remotest parts where they yeeld most gaine It is not amisse to adde the very words of Marchantius writing of the olde trade of Burges in Flanders since what I haue written is onely to bee vnderstood of the vnited Prouinces Thus he saith Lodouicus Crassus in the yeere 1323. granted a staple to Bruges which his sonne Malanus confirmed The Staple is a priuiledge of staying forraine Commodities in the place except the seller and bringer chuse rather to returne whence they came Bruges hath a Market place with a house for the meeting of Merchants at noone and euening which house was called the Burse of the houses of the extinct Family Bursa bearing three purses for their Armes engraueu vpon their houses The Marchants of England Scotland France Castilia Portugal Aragon Nanar Catnlania Biscaia the Hans Cities of Germanie namely Lubeck Hamberg Rostoch Dantzk eRiga Renel and diuers other Cities the Marchants of Venice Florence Genoa Luca and Milan namely fifteene Nations had each their Colledge or house here The Italians brought Chamblets and Grogram in made of Goates hayre in Galatia a prouince of the Lesser Asia they brought Hides thred of Silke of Siluer and of Gold and cloathes made of them they brought Iewels Wines of Candia Allum Brimstone Oyle Spices Apothecary Wares Mithridate Rhubarb Mummy Sena Cassia and the soile of Brasse The French brought Salt Red and white Wines Oyle and Paper The English brought Wooll Leade Tynne Beere Woollen cloathes especially those so make vailes for the Low countrey women The Scots brought skinnes of sheepe Conneys and other and course woollen cloathes The Spaniards and Portugals brought graine for Scarlet Dye Gold Siluer raw Silke thred of Silke the wood Guiacum Salsaparilla Vnicornes Horne and Spices The Germans with the Danes and Polakes brought Honey Waxe Corne Salt-Peter Wooll Glasse rich Furs Quick-siluer Armes Rhenish Wines Timber for building Againe they exported out of Flanders faire and great Horses fat Beenes Butter diuers kindes of Cheese pickeld and fumed Hertings diuers Sea-fishes salted Woollen and Linnen clothes Tapestry of great variety and beauty rare pictures and all manuary workes Thus Flanders gaue the name to all Netherland Bruges 〈◊〉 in the yeere 1414. got a priuiledge that they who were free of that Citie by Birth Gift Buying or Marriage should be free from all confiscation of their goods which exceedeth the priuiledges of any other Citie in Netherland for those of Ypre hauing the like yet loose it vpon any Force offered to the Prince The trade at Bruges beganne to decay in the yeere 1485 partly for the narrownesse and vnsafety of the Port of Sluce and the Riuer leading from thence to Bruges partly by the Fame of the large and commodious Riuer Scaldis at Antwerp and partly by the ciuill Warres For first the Portugals hauing taken Callicut in the East Indies carried their famous Spices to the Fayre of Antwerp in the yeere 1503. and contracting with that Citie drew the Fuggari and Welfari German Merchants thither And after the Merchants of Florence Lucca and the Spinolae of Genor and those of other Nations excepting part of the Spaniards leauing Bruges seated themselues at Antwerp about the yeere 1516. And they were inuited thither by the priuiledge of Marriage Dowries which became shadowes to many frauds For when Husbands either breake in life time or be found banckerouts at death the Wiues are preferred to all debters in the recouery of their dowry Notwithstanding Bruges at this day by the third generall taxe of Flaunders yet in vse payes something more then Ghant for publike vses These be the words of Iacobus Marchantius The foresaid trade of the vnited Prouinces hath at home much commodity and increase by the Riuers as the Rheine bringing downe the commodities of Germany and by the standing or little mouing waters which are most frequent and by channels or ditches wrought by hand and bearing at least little boates for passage to each City and Village but these waters for the most part ending in standing pooles by reason they fall into a low ground neere the Sea the Ayre is vnholsome the waters are neither of good smell nor taste neither doe they driue Mils as running waters doe elsewhere of which kind they haue few or none My selfe in a darke rainy day passing one of these said narrow channels numbered an hundred little boates at least which passed by vs and are hired at a