Cape of Metapan and Isle of Cerigo the Ancient Porphyrus and Citherea where formerly stood a Magnificent Temple to Venus the ruins of which as I was told are still to be seen near the Sea and meeting with a storm we were constrained to cast Anchor before the Island of Zia which in Ancient times was called Calle Ceos or Cea it is about 50 Miles in Circuit shaped like a Horse-shoe the Soil produces Wine Corn good Pasture and many other useful things the Harbour is stored with Fish the Inhabitants are very civil to Strangers the Women wear their Coats but to their Knees and their Smocks about a Foot below that with a Veil reaching their Breasts which they turn aside as they think fit when they will or will not Compliment any but lying in War's way between the Turks and Venetians they are much oppressed and impoverished otherways the plenty of the Island would inrich them Sailing from hence we made the Isle of Andra This is the Ancient Andros of the Greeks but now Inhabited by People of several Nations as Albanians Armenians Turks Jews c. and these differ in Customs as well as Languages very rude and unhospitable the Chief Towns are Arni and Amolacos The Greeks have several Churches in this Island but the People are very Superstitious and odd in their Devotions strowing Flowers and rowling in them but the Latins who have likewise Churches there are more Civilized and proceed Regular The Island is very Fruitful and here they make abundance of white wicker Baskets used all over the Archipelago Weighing Anchor we got out to Sea and stood to the Starboard passing between this Island and Negropont and having a South-west Wind Sciro and soon after Ispi Cera and some other places appeared In the Evening when we were pretty clear of Islands the Wind turned East South East and we soon made the Land where Troy stood little of whose Ruins remain for we had passed Tenedos in the Night so passing the Mouths we entered the Channel of the Helespont the place where the Turks passed from Asia into Europe to extend their Empire CHAP. II. Of the Helespont Dardanelles Places about them what is observable in Constantinople and its adjacents Containing all that is Curious and Remarkable in these Parts THE Gate or Entrance as it were to Constantinople being by the Helespont and Dardanelles I think it here convenient to say something of this fam'd Streight before I come a Land It lies in 37 Degrees 42 Minutes North Latitude and of Longitude about 55 not extending above 10 or 12 Leagues in length and at the entrance it is a large League and an half broad it divides the Country of Thrace from Troas a Province of Asia that lies to the East To the North lies the Propontis and to the South the Aegean Sea and the Archipelago and in Sailing here one has a prospect of divers fine Towns Villages c. and a curious Country on either Hand The Turks knowing the important advantage of this Streight have Fortified the Passage with two strong Castles one in Europe and the other in Asia the Castle built in Asia called the New Castle is seated on a tongue of Land pointing out into the Sea on a square Platform comprizing 4 large panes of Walls flanked at the four Corners with Towers those next the Sea square with a sort of Redoubt only on one side those toward the Land are round and defend the Walls but neither in thickness nor largeness comparable to the other the Works washed by the Sea have Port-holes level with the surface of the Water and I could number as I Sailed by about 40 Cannon mounted to prevent any Ships from forcing their way into the Harbour and to the South of this Castle stands a very fair Mosque The Castle on the European side which the Turks call Roumeli-inglu-issar is seated near to Cape Greco and in form is irregular within the compass of the Walls are Houses for the Aga and other Officers with a fair Mosque There is a Platform on which many great Guns are planted lying equal with the surface of the Water Near the Castle lies a small Village noted for its Five stately Pilasters that serve to underprop the Aquaducts bringing Water to the Fortress But notwithstand-these Castles whose Guns reach from Shore to Shore the Venetians and other Maritime Nations have insulted the Harbour for the Castles lie not directly opposite least in firing they should batter each other The Castles are appointed to examine Ships that pass and re-pass and the Governors have Orders to sink such Ships as will not comply Beyond these Castles that are of Modern building are two old Castles one on each shore that on the Asian side the Turks call Natoli-jski-jsiar it is of square Building flanked at the corners with Towers and in the midst of it is a large square Tower on which some Culverin is placed and behind this Castle is a large Village of about 3000 Inhabitants Christians Turks and Jews These by us are called the Castles of the Dardanelles That on the European side is of a Regular Fortification and indeed we may esteem this narrow Passage well guarded by these Castles and Constantinople so advantageously Scituated that no great City in the World can boast of more Advantages as will by and by appear Being examined at the Castles and leave obtained to pass we arrived at Gallipoly about 35 Miles from them This Town was anciently built by one Callias Prince of the Athenians and after his Name called Callipolis but now corruptly Gallipoly it is thinly inhabited by Greeks who mostly sell a Liquor called Raki a kind of Brandy and some Oyl The Doors of their Houses are not above two Foot high and so made to prevent the proud Turks Insults who are hereby prevented riding in on Horseback In this Town there is a square Castle with a Tower joyned to it by the Pummel of a Wall to the Seaward there is an Arsenal where the old Galleys are laid up which the Turks affirm to have been taken from the Venetians when they took the Island of Cyprus but in Truth they are a part of their own shatter'd Fleet that escaped from the Battle of Lepanto and were by main strength carried over the Isthmus of Corinth and put into the Archipelago they not being able to bring them about by Sea because the Christians had possessed all the Passes After having been a-shore and pretty well refreshed in this place we weighed Anchor and with a West South West Wind passed the Isle of Marmora At this place the Sea is wide and this is properly the Propontis though now called mostly Mare de Marmora and here though we had a fair Wind the Current setting strong against us we could not make much way however Sailing on we in a little time came in sight of Constantinople which is about 125 Miles from Gallipoly and entering into the Streight of it we had
from the main Land is the Glory of Islands so termed viz. the famed Ormus at the Mouth of the Persian Gulf it is Southward from the main Land the Gulf reaching from thence to Bassera which is in the bottom of it Ormus lies in 27 degrees North Latitude 180 Leagues from Bassora it has a Fort that was built by the Portuguese but taken from them by the great Schah Abbas King of Persia assisted by the English The Island is no more than 3 Leagues in circumference and mostly Rockey but it has gotten its Fame from the Riches that flowed thither from India and Persia as being a considerable Mart especially when the Portuguese held it As for the Water and Provisions they are mostly brought from the main Land and because there is a deficiency of Springs they keep rain Water in Cisterns and little more now is Inhabited beside the Fort round which the Persians have cut a Trench and let the Sea into it by a Canal for it stands on the point of the Island and is the last Province of Persia this way There are great store of Oysters about it about the bigness of ours but much harder to open A League to the South-west is the Island of Lareca it is bigger then Ormus but very Barren the Ground consisting of a burning Sand it reaches in length from North-west to South-east There is little in it except a Fort which was begun by the Dutch but the Persians fearing they would prove ill Neighbours if they fortified it took it out of their Hands and finished it As for Persia in General it is environed with Mountains and Barren Desarts which are main Bulworks against the attempts of powerful Enemies Their is a scarcity of Money which is one main reason they cannot set a great Army on Foot in so vast a Country and this I think proceeds from the smallness of Trade for the Persians are not very industrious all of them standing much on points of Honour There are few or no Fruit-Trees to be found but in Gardens and in most places the Water is bad and Wood exceeding scarce in almost all the Provinces Their chief Manufacture is Silk and some Stuffs There is abundance of Liquorice growing almost every where but little of it set The Country abounds in Brooks which render the ways very bad to Travel in Winter and some Rivers most of which are in Mazandara whose chief is Eschref and most of these Rivers fall into the Caspian Sea Here is the greatest store of Wood in the whole Country of Persia but there are a vast number of Serpents and Scorpions who dying in multitudes during the hot Season corrupt and infect the Air rendering it unwholesome so that in fine Persia is said to be a large Kervanserai that serves for a Passage for the Money and Goods that go out of Asia Turkey and Europe to the Indies and to the Stuffs and Spices returning of which they have a small Profit Designing now I was thus near to vâ—sit the Indies I found some of my Company willing to embrace the opportunity of leaving Ormus and embarking for Bassora at the bottom of the Gulf and accordingly with all our Baggage we safely Arrived and Landed there CHAP. XVI A Brief Account of Aethiopia as I received from Mounsieur du Pau who resided many Years in that Court BEING now at Bassora preparing for a Voyage to the Indies it will not be amiss to entertain you with a brief Relation of Aethiopia or the Country of Abyssins which I had of a French Gentleman I found here who had Travelled in that vast Country and lived some time in the Court and this I the rather set down because I know not whether I shall ever Travel into that famed Country yet I shall be as Brief as may be He told me it was bounded on the East by the Red Sea and Zanguebar on the South by Avousa Ziela Narca c. on the West with Nubia and the Country of Negros on the North with part of Nubia and Bugia and is about 7 Months Travel in Circuit The King has four Kings Tributary to him viz. The King of Senner who pays him Tribute in Horses and lives in an excessive hot Country the King of Naria who pays him Tribute in dust Gold the Kings of Bugia and Dangala who sends their Tribute in Stuffs and Slaves In this Country are Mines out of which Gold is gotten and sent to the Coasts of Saffala and Guinea and these Mines are shallower than in other Countries They have likewise a great deal of Civet which is scraped from the Testacles or rather from an opening slit between or near the Cods of a Civet Cat this Beast is almost as big as a midling Grey-hound with a sharp Nose and Head like a Fox they have Feet Tail and Whiskers like a Cat. When the People of the Country fall out they go before their Scheiks who do the good Office to make them Friends again They anoint their Heads with a strong Oyl extracted from the Root of an Herb to keep them from swarming with Lice which they are very subject to The Provinces of Aethiopia are Gouyan where the King has a Viceroy Beghandir Amara Dambia all very Mountainous Damoud Tygre and Barnegas also other Provinces depending on it Governed by Princes who are his Vassals The Air is in some places temperate but in Senner very hot In this Kingdom are 24 Tambours or Viceroys The Capital City is Gonthar in the Province of Dambia The King has 100 Wives and yet so little Jealous contrary to the Persians and Turks that he keeps no Eunuchs to look after them it being counted a Sin in that Country to geld a Man He is of easie access so that the poorest have freedom to make their complaints to him or speak to him what they are minded He keeps the numerous Children he has by his many Wives on a Mountain called Ouohhni 2 days journy from Gonthar On the top of the Mountain there is a pleasant Cave where they keep them a Nights and in the Day time when they are big enough their Guardians let them play about the Mountains When the King dies they chuse one of the wittiest and likeliest of them and Crown him not regarding Birth-right then are the Brothers removed a distant place to be kept Prisoners and his Children as he gets them sent to the forementioned Mountain The Burying-place of the Kings is called Ayesus and is a Grot cut out square in a Rock there the Aged are laid on one side and the Younger on the other side and near it stood a very pretty Church built by the Jesuits but they diving into Politicks and State Matters gave such suspition to the King that they intended to undermine his Throne as made him banish them and demolish their Church and Houses puting some to Death that lingred behind as also divers Capuchins setting a bag of dust-Gold on their Heads which made
we parted with good Wishes Prayers and Tears I sent my Cargo on Board a Merchant's Ship lying over-against Eriffe in the River of Thames on the 30th of April 1684 and travelling over-land went on Board myself when she was fallen to the Downs It will be needless to tell you what Agreement I made with the Master who was my Friend and used me extream well during my Voyage or how I spent my time e'er we quitted the Lands end let it suffice we were driven back by stress of Weather and forced to put in at several places with other Ships in our Company before we had a fair Wind to carry us out to Sea but at length Providence so ordered it that the Wind came about as well as we could wish and we lost no time to embrace so favourable an opportunity but getting out of Harbour where we had lain for Ten days Wind bound in a few hours sailing England disappeared but Night coming on the Sun setting with a dusky Cloud a thwart it and darting its Beams Pale to either Pole the Mariners observed by that and some other Signs they have that a Storm threatned us nor were they deceived in their Conjecture for the Wind arose by degrees and about Midnight it was a full Storm but with some difficulty we weather'd it for about the rising of the Sun the Wind slackned and we kept on our way yet this tossing a little indisposed me so that all that day I kept my Cabin but for the most part after this the Seas and Winds contended as it were to give us a favourable passage to Constantinople whither this Ship was bound upon some particular occasions as well as that of Trade which I do not conceive pertinent to this Relation of my own Travels nor shall I describe as some superfluously do all the Coasts we made in our Sailing Let it suffice then that we touched not till we came to Messina in Sicily though in our passage I saw the Fires of the Mountain Stromboli which in the night time looked dreadful though at a great distance and was informed that the People who live near it conceive a foolish opinion that it is an entrance into Hell because when the Fire makes its Irruptions they hear howlings as of the Damned which is no more than the Winds breaking through the hollow Rockey Caverns in the Mountain wasted by the long continuance of the burning which makes a confused noise that at a distance resembles howling Passing the Fare of Messina we came before the Town and dropt Anchor without the Port where those that would had leave to go a-shore I failed not to do it and whilst the Sailers were employed in taking in some necessaries I took a slight view of the place It lies on that side the Island that looks to Rhegio in Italy from which it is 60 miles distant where the Ancient Town of Zande stood Nature has furnished it with a pleasant and safe Harbour which for its compactness may be thought to have been made by Art The Buildings that adorn the Port are Regular and Uniform so that they give a pleasant prospect at the end of the Mole that shuts in the Port There is a Tower well fortified to secure the entry and about the middle of it is another Tower on the top of it a a great Light to guide Ships in the Night The Streets of the Town are fair and large The Cathedral is very stately and over the Door in large Characters is Written Gran-Mercy a Messine When the French became Masters of the Island it was the first place that Surrendered and Sicily caused and beheld the fatal Tragedy of the Intruders for a design was secretly laid and carried on so that on a set day when the Bell rung to Evening Song which was the Sign the Inhabitants of the Island Massacred all the French Nation without sparing Women or Children which is still called the Fatal Sicilian Vesper Before the Church is a square Piazza with a Theatre in the middle where the Victory over the Turkish Naval Forces is represented in Brass and in the same Metal stands the Statue of Don John of Austria the Spanish Admiral in that Expedition The Country is very Fruitful abounds in Sulphur Mines and much subject to Earthquakes The next Town of note is Syracuse where the famous Archimedes made his Experiments and fired the Roman Navy that besieged it with Burning-Glasses There is a Castle built on the Rocks called Scyla and the Water beating on these Rocks resembles the barking of Dogs As for Charibais it is opposite to the Port of Messina and not dangerous but when two contrary Eddies meet and make a kind of a whirlpool so that sometimes Ships turn round and are sucked in which gave occasion to Fable them two Sea Monsters set there to destroy Passengers though there are Pilots always ready at the general Charge to guide Ships in and out The Viceroy has his Residence here six Months and as many at Palermo Mount Gibello anciently called Aetna much infects this fruitful Island with its firey Irruptions The Sicilians are very hauty Proud and exceeding Jealous of the Spaniards under whose Government they are From hence setting Sail we directed our Course to Maltha and having Coasted Sicily there sprung up an East North East Wind before which we drove a very swift Sailing and soon made the Isle of Maltha in the Port of which we came to an Anchor It lies in the African Sea between Sicily and Tripoly in the Latitude of 38 degrees and in Longitude 34 extending from East to West 29 Miles and is about 12 over all the Earth is exceeding White its Ancient Name was Melita In the Year 1530 the Emperor Charles gave it and the Isle of Gozo to the Knights who were driven out of Rhodes and they have ever since possessed it in spite of all the efforts the Turks have made It seems to be a Rock with very little Earth on it yet it bears Fruit and Corn but they are mostly supplied from Sicily it lying but 20 Leagues distant Here St. Paul on his landing in his passage to Rome shook off the Viper they show his Grott and the Earth is dug there and carried away for many Physical uses The Natives wear Green Spectacles to prevent their Eyes from Dazling by reason of the whiteness of the Earth The Knights of the Order are under a great Master They have many advantageous Ports well defended and are formidable at Sea with their Galleys to the Moors of Barbary and Turks for if they take them they make 'em Slaves The Towns of Maltha are well scituate and defended they have good Magazines and always keep a good Provision of Arms and Naval Stores They are very charitable to Travellers especially the Sick providing for them in their Hospitals while they stay and pay the charges of their Voyage when they depart The Wind being again fair we left Maltha passing the
Ship would not touch there by which means over and above he took in a great many Passengers and Lading for India Being thus disappointed we soon weighed Anchor and steered away South South east with a very gentle Wind but were soon becalmed for many Hours then sprung up an Easterly Wind and we stood away to the South and soon had the Isle of Rischer on our Larboard which is very near the main Land and makes a little Port called Bender-Rischer which is guarded by a Fort and standing away we came up with the Island of Coucher and left it on our Larboard this Island is large and indifferent Fruitful and so Sailing on passed Cape Verdestan at 3 or 4 Leagues distance and as we Sailed we had often a faint view of the main Land of Persia especially where it lay high and Mountainous but before we came to the Island of Lar we lost our Long-Boat which was a great disappointment to us Lar is a little Desart Island bearing nothing but a few Trees at the West North-west end of it we passed by this and the next that presented was Andravia a little low Island near the main Land and passing by we had Kies another Island to the South-West it is indifferently Inhabited the Houses lying up and down in it but Coasting Paloro and leaving Mount Sennas on the Main Land to the Larboard we made Congo a little Town in the Kingdom of Persia 27 Degrees 15 Minutes North Latitude it stands on the Sea-side near the Foot of a black Rock that shelter the Town from the North Winds and behind there is a white Rock or Hill and many such along the Coast The Town lies from West North-west to East South-east and is defended by a little Castle where 3 pieces of Cannon are mounted and has a safe Road for Shipping to Ride in though they are very much tossed in high Winds about it are 5 Gardens replenished with Fruit-Trees as Figs Lemons Quinces Oranges Pears c. Large Pomgranates Mellons and Palm-Trees there are also the Indian Mangoes they have Schiras-Wine and Brandy made of Dates there are near it Hills producing Sulphur which is dug and transported to the Indies The Custom is easie half of it belonging to the King af Portugal by Agreement beside five Horses the King of Persia presents him every Year and to this end there is a Portuguese Agent residing in the Town who has the Colours of that Nation on the Tarras of his House Leaving this place after the sale of some Goods and taking in others we set Sail for Sindy being the first Town of India where the River Indus discharges it self into the Sea but here we narrowly escaped falling into the hands of the Zinganes a sort of Indian Pirates who lie with their Boats behind the Rocks to surprize Vessels as they come near them and if they board a Ship in the first fury till they have mastered and secured the Prize they put all to the Sword and the rest they Lame by cutting the Sinew above the Heel and make them Slaves to keep their Cattle they so use them to prevent their running away Their Arms are only Swords and Arrows therefore our watchfulness and the fire of our great Guns made them retire again among the Rocks so soon as they prepared to attack us But having little to do here we set Sail for Surat having now on Board us by taking in many Passengers 116 Souls and passing many small Islands and some Promontories came to Queschimo a large low Island so that Sailing by it one may see the Mountains of the main Land over it it lies from East to West 20 Leagues in length but indifferent in breadth There is a Fort where Ships Anchor at 6 Fathom Water and this formerly belonged to the Portuguese On the South East of it lies Nabdgion or Pilombo a little low Desart Island and East of it Tonbo affording little beside Antelopes and Coneys but Ships have here the Advantage of many Wells to Water at yet the entrance is dangerous because of the Banks that lie under Water about it the Portuguese were once Masters of most of these Islands and exacted Tribute from Ships that Traded there but their Strength and Riches decaying at Home weakned it abroad so that now they have lost most of their footing on the Coast of Persia and the Indies Sailing from hence in a little time we had the Isle of Angom to the North east and on the South-east a Port of Arabia Foelix called Julfer to which many Indian Barks come to buy Dates and Pearl the latter being fished all along the Coast from Mascat to Babrem and bring European Money to purchase them The next that stood with us were the Isles of Salame these are four Rocks over-against Cape Mosandon one of them bigger than the rest rising a little into a point there is a dangerous Chanel passing between them all Rock at the bottom so that many adventuring to pass it have been cast away Having passed these we met with great storms of Hail accompanied with prodigious Thunders and Lightning insomuch that the Sea seemed to be all on Fire This made us furl our Sails and though the Air on Head of us was as dark as Night there appeared a Rainbow on our Starboard Upon the breaking of this Storm prodigious Spouts began to rise out of the Sea to our Larboard and at length encreased almost on all sides of us some being very near which put us into a considerable fright least falling on our Ship they should sink it they being extraordinary large insomuch that all affirmed they had not seen the like in their Lives so that all Hands were employed to secure the Ship as well as might be from the threatning danger for we as good as gave our selves to be lost however trusting in the Creator of all things and taking to my self more Courage than ordinary I took a view of these watery Prodigies The first that appeared was about a Musket-shot from us as we were steering North-east and before it rose the Water in that place boiled up prodigiously more than a Foot above the surface of the Sea foaming and looking whitish and over it something representing a black Smoak which the Banians foolishly said was the Devil sucking up Water to drown them This made a hurrying noise like a Torrent running in a Valley mixed with a hissing like that of Serpents or Gees A little after appeared a dark puff of steem this seemed to be a Pipe as big as ones Finger the noise continuing this tapered as it were up to the Clouds and the light put it out of our sight so that we knew that Spout was spent but then there was another to the Southward of us which began in the same manner as the former soon after another to the Westward and another to the side of the second the most remote of the three and all these appeared like so many
bundles of Straw a Foot and an half or two Foot above the surface of the Water smoaking to appearance exceedingly making the same noise as the first A little while after I perceived so many Pipes reaching down from the Clouds upon these Risings and every one of them had a large end joyning to the Cloud widening like the end of a Trumpet and the lower end resembled the Teat or Dug of a Beast stretched perpendicularly down by the force of some weight These Pipes appeared to be of a paleish White which I conjecture was the Water in them for no doubt they were formed before they drew it up and being emptied disappeared for though the Pipes descended small swelled with the Water they grew larger to the thickness of a Man's Arm or more These Spouts are dangerous things for falling on a Ship they entangle the Sails and lift her up then leting her fall again sink her if she be small but if the Ship be too heavy to be lifted they split the Sails and emptying a vast quantity of Water into her with a violent force sink her and thus I believe Ships have been lost Sailing in those and other Seas where Spouts are and so going down in a Minute or two have never been heard of Some that were on Board brought a large black handled Knife to cut the Spouts at a distance which Superstitious Fancy is thus put in practice One of the Ships company kneels down by the Main-Mast and holding in one Hand a Knife with a black handle he Reads the Gospel of St. John and when he comes to these Words viz. The Word was made Flesh and dwells in us he turns to the Spout and cuts the Air a thwart and then they hold the Spout though at a great distance is cut and le ts down all its Water with a great noise But the Master looking on this silly fruitless Fancy as a piece of Conjuration would not let it be put in practice In the Mediterranean they shoot Cross bar shot at them which hitting is more probable of the two to cut however these spent themselves without doing us any harm and at length through infinite Mercy we weathered the Storm which raged furiously all the time and kept on our Course having the main Land of Arabia on our Starboard and on our Larboard that part of Persia called Marsan which bore South-east of us and we made particularly one Hill of Land shaped like a Sugar Loaf and here in November December and January the East Winds commonly Reign and therefore to go from Persia to India in a short time the best Season is March April and the beginning of May for then the Mouson or Trading Wind blows However we held on with the help of the Current which from the end of July to January sets towards Ormus from India and from January till July from Ormus towards India In our Passage another Storm arising we saw 3 new Spouts but they were at too great a distance from us to apprehend much dangar In our way off Bembaceca we overtook 3 Ships bound to Surat as we were but proving slow Sailers the Master would not stay for them but resolved to make the best of his way so contrary to the mind of the Mate we left them to Sail at their leisure CHAP. XVIII The Arrixal at Surat a discription of that Town the manner of the People Travels into the Indian Provinces with Observations of what is Rare and Remarkable in the vast Dominion of the Great Mogul AFter many dangers in Coasting Persia and a great part of Arabia we knew by the Snakes we saw at Sea a kind of spungy Froth floating in great abundance on the Water which pricks and makes the Hands of those that touch it burn that we were not far from the main Land of India we kept Sailing by many small Islands of which those Seas are plenty till we made Daman a Town belonging to the Portugueses who have strengthened it with a considerable Fort It lies in 20 Degrees North Latitude From this Town to Cape Comorin is a range of very high Hills along the Coast yet this Town has no other Harbour but a little Chanel which remains almost dry when the Tide is out Here refreshing our selves we took the advantage of an Easterly Gale and weighing Anchor bore away Northward having no more than five Fathom and an half Water in an Hours Sailing but then coming into deeper Water we Sailed more boldly and came up with the Bar of Surat in 6 Fathom and an half Water Here the Custom-house-Officers came aboard us and narrowly search'd and viewed every thing they had an opportunity to see after that Boats came to fetch off the Passengers and their Goods and we were had to the Custom-house and again searched in a very odd manner The entrance for Vessels of Burthen is very difficult and we were a ground twice before the Tide could carry us in we passed then by the Castle of Surat on our Right Hand and dropped our Anchor before the Custom-House Thus being happily at Land after a two Months troublesome Voyage I and others rested and refreshed our selves The Bar so called by reason of Sands and is 6 French Leagues or more from Surat yet their Ships of great Burthrn must unload before they can come up the River Being impatient to see Surat of which I had heard so much discourse at home I went in a Boat on the River with divers other Passengers but by reason of the Stream being against us we were a considerable time e'er we reached the Town and the Custom-house being open upon the Signal given we came on Shoar without which we might not do it then passing a large Court we entered into a Hall where the Customer waited to have us searched The manner of their searching as I said is odd and very strict they making their search from Head to Foot feeling your Nakedness in every part looking also into your Mouth as if they would tell you your Age by your Teeth and the Waiter demands of every Passenger as his Fee an Abassy which is worth about 18 d. and the Bark has half a Roupe which is about 14 d. a Head for every Passenger If they find one smugling in the least he is fined severely if not Caved All the Baggage is brought into the Custom-house to be searched and when that is done every one is called in his turn to pay and take them away for Money they take two and an half per Cent. for Merchants Goods of Christians four and of the Banians five per Cent. India is a very large Country of which I shall say something before I enter upon particulars It is bounded on the West with the River Indus on the East with China on the North with Tartary on the South with the Ocean and is properly divided into two divisions viz. India intra Gangem and India extra Gangem the first contains nine
for Shops Merchants Ware-houses or private Families for 20 or 30 Rubbles or little more and when the Houses fall to decay they store them considerably with Fireing and other Necessaries as Perma Weclinda Totam Kentisma Solovetsky Ocona Bombasey and None-nosks are famous for their Salt-pits where great quantities are made and out of which the Czar has a considerable Revenue as 3 Russ on every hundred Weight The Rivers that water this Country besides what I have named are Wichida a long and large River which rises out of the Country of Permia and falleth into the Volga Duna that empties it self into the Baltick Sea by the Town of Riga Onega that falleth into the Bay of Solovetsko ninety Verst from St. Nicholas This River below the Town of Cargo Polia meeteth with Volock that falls into the Finland Sea by the Town of Yama so that from the Port of St. Nicholas into the Finland Sea one may go by Water to Suchana This River floweth into Duyna and so into the North Sea there are abundance of Fish in it and in the open Season it is in a manner covered with Water-fowl Duyna is many hundred Miles long which falleth Northward into the Bay of St. Nicholas a Bay so Named by one Chancelour an English Man who first found a North-East passage to Russia in 1553. and called the Bay St. Nichola's Bay from an Abby Dedicated to that Saint standing near it and upon notice of his arrival was sent for with great Joy by the Czar to Moscow whether he went on Sledges 1500 Miles and was received in great Joy and highly Feasted with great State and Magnificence the Court appearing in all its Splendor overjoyed now in hopes of an open Trade by Sea for before they were obliged to carry their Merchandize through the Hastill Territories of Poland Sweeden and other Countries to ship them for these parts and hereupon Ambassadors were sent to England and a free Trade granted with large Priviledges whereupon a Company now called the Muscovy Company settled Factories at Arch-Angel and other Towns adjacent having Lands allowed them and an Agent or Consul permitted to reside at Moscow though since the Dutch and other Nations have found the way and interloped upon them This Bay lies in 64 Degrees North Latitude yet the Country about it is very pleasant in the open Season and in the River stands an Island called Rose Island where are Roses Damask Red Violets and abundance of pleasant Flowers and Fruits There is a Monastery near it of 700 Monks who live after the Greek manner and have large In-coms for they receive rent for the Lands lying many Miles round them However there is in this Country many desarts and wast places especially to the Northward with rockey Shoars and craggy Mountains but on the latter they breed Goats and a kind of wild Horse Volverins or wild Dogs but the latter mostly in the Woods near the Rocks they find a Fish called Morso a Sea Monster who by the help of his Teeth clambers up to get his prey of Eggs that the Wild-fowl lay in the Pits and hollow places his Teeth are about two foot long and better for use than Ivory of which they make Knives and Sword halfs c. They fancy that in pursuing these on the Ice and the Flakes breaking away some of their People were driven by the Currants and Winds on the coast of America and stocked in a great length of time that large fourth part of the World because there is some resemblance between them but I fancy this opinion Groundless They Hunt likewise the Seals on the Ice and kill them by striking them on their Noses with Clubs and make good Merchandize of their Skins and the Oyl they get from them As for the Nobility of Muscovy they are four-fold The First are called Vâ—â—â—nâ—y Knazey and these are of chief Authority as being the Ancient Nobility that is exempt or priviledged Dukes The second are the Bojazens such as the Czar honoureth besides their Nobility with the Title of Counsellors The third are the Vayavodey or such as have been Generals of Armies or done some great Exploits for their Country The Fourth and lowest degree are such as have the Title of Knazey or Dukes but descend from younger Brothers of the chief Houses all of these have priviledges suitable to their Degrees and make a considerable Figure The Parliament is held at Moscow composed of the Clergy and Nobility summoned by the Czar who sits in his Throne in that Assembly and others according to their Degree Then the Dyack or Secretary reads what is purposed by the Prince to be propounded to them the Patriarch with his Bishops and other Clergy are hereupon required to give their Opinions first in order who generally consent to what is propounded and the Nobles agree with them as thinking such Holy Men cannot Err then is it drawn up and sent to be proclaimed as standing Law in the principle Cities and head Towns of the Empire The Moscovites as to their Religion are Christians of the Greek Church very superstitious in their Worship for they often in their Devotion beat their Fore-heads against the floors of their Churches till they are Swelled and sometimes Bloody they pay a Veneration to Saints and particularly to St. Nicholas whom they stile their Patron they Reverence the Virgin Mary St. Peter and others They have the Cross and Holy Water in high esteem among them and their Bishops go in Procession to hollow the Rivers once a Year at which time the People strive for the Water many leap into it and dip their Infants though the weather be extream cold This Water so Hollowed is likewise given to the Sick with a fancy it will restore them or by cleansing make them fit for an other World They keep four Lents and then they abstain from strongs Liquors and all gross sort of Food as Flesh c. they observe certain Vigils watching in their Churches by Night repeating Arisons and bowing their Fore-heads to the floor a certain number of times Their Marriages are celebrated as ours but with some odd different Ceremonies viz. The Bride stoops down and knocks her Head against the Bridegrooms Shew in token of her Submission and Obedience and the Friends of the Bride bow to him then they break Bread and Eat it among them intimating that by this Marriage the Friends on either side are united as the crumbs of Bread were in the Loaf and that they are to account themselves as one Man and one Family c. The Funerals of their Dead are very solemnly performed they Wash and Apparel the Body very neatly then are their Mourners appointed for some days to Howl over it and often to demand what was the occcasion it died seeing it wanted nothing of Wordly Goods as Meat Drink Riches c. naming the sorts and kinds and then set up a hideous Lamentation much like the wild Irish If it be in the open
Wind and soon left Lindo a-stern being a little Rock at the point of the Island of Rhodes 20 Leagues from the City and on it there is a small Town with a very good Fort. The next that appeared was Scarpanto 17 Leagues distant from Lindo leaving it to the Starboard we enter'd the Gulf of Sataâ—ia where for a considerable time Sailing we had a Rowling Sea the Current there setting with Eddies and it is many times dangerous passing for Ships are often cast away there and here we were encompassed with many flashes of Lightning that glancing on the Waters made the Sea seem as on Fire looking very terrible and I plainly perceived the Master of the Ship was at a loss to stand in with the Coast so that it growing somewhat Calm we made little way that Night The Morning proving Fair the Man sent up to discover could however see no Land but the whiteishness of the Water made the Sailors conclude we must be near the Land of Aegypt which is the only Mark at a great distance that can be observed the Land lying so low that it is not made till a Ship is in a manner upon it This whiteness is occasioned by the River Nile that carries it a great way into the Sea and at this distance from the Coast we had many Flurreys accompanied with great Showers of Rain but they were in a little time over and the Wind coming about North-west we tacked and sent up again to discover but no Land appearing we kept sailing South and South-west but fearing to lose the Windward of Alexandria we stood East and by South but finding that a mistake we tacked about that we might get nearer to the Land from which we knew we could not be far distant and held on the same Course till we found our selves obliged to Tack and bear away South-west here we saw the Moon rise Ecclipsed half an hour after Sun-set which was not visible in England Holland France c. because there according to the Almanacks the Ecclips was to happen at 3 in the Afternoon Feb. 11. and the next Day we percieved the Sea very white about us and the Man that looked out cryed Land some thought it to be Damiette and others Bouquer but in the mean time that we might not Sail to Leeward we continued our Course South-west and in a few Hours we Tacked and stood North-east and about a quarter of an hour after the Wind turning North-west we bore away South and South-west and in conclusion we made the Bouquer and a little after the Farillon or Light-House of Alexandria and at 3 of the Clock in the Afternoon the same day we entered the Haven by the South One thing I found remarkable in approaching Land from Damiette to Rossetto between the two Branches of the Nile that from 40 Fathom Water it lessens every Mile till you come to Land Aegypt is bounded on the East with the Red Sea on the South with Asia on the West with Cyrene and on the North with the Mediterranean Sea CHAP. VII The Author's Arrival at Alexandria and what is observable there and his passing from thence to Caire BEING now at Land and recovered from my Sea fatigue by suitable Refreshments my curiosity lead me to take a view of this once so Renowned City Founded by Alexander the Great when after his Persian Expedition he brought Aegypt under his Subjection though it is not comparable to what it has been in its flourishing time as may appear by the Ruins about it and within its Circumference and the Venerable remains of Antiquity This Town is called by the Turks who possess all Aegypt Skenderia There are in it several Fondicks or large Houses where the English French Dutch and other Europeans have their appointed Residence paying no House Rent but on the contrary the Consuls receive Money of the Grand Signior Annually to keep them in suitable Repair they being every Evening shut up and the Keys carried to the Aga of the Castle who sends them back every Morning they are likewise shut up as is the Water-gate every Friday during Noon Prayer and this arises from an old Prophesie that the Franks for so they call all Christian Europeans shall become Masters of that place during Noon Prayer on a Friday Scarce any thing of the Ancient Town remains unruinated but the Walls and some Buildings towards the French Fondick which are almost ruined it being easie to distinguish the Ancient from the Later Buildings for the latter are low and ill-contrived This once Famous Town has three Ports one called the Old Harbour it is pretty large but the entrance difficult so that but few Vessels put in there the other two are separated by a little Island and higher up the Island was anciently called Pharos and is joyned to the main Land by a Stone Bridge and in the middle of it is a square Tower where the Powder is kept and at the end another Castle called Farillon standing where the Ancient Watch-Tower of Pharos stood which was accounted one of the Seven Wonders of the World The first of these Ports is a Harbour for the Galleys and is on one side defended by the Farillon and on the other by a slighter Castle but these Ports are encumbered with Stones and Rocks requiring a skilful Pilot to guide in Vessels of any considerable Burthen The Custom-house here is Farmed by a Turk and has a Jew for his Deputy and indeed the Receipt of Custom mostly passes through the Jew's Hands who can pleasure or displeasure many that Trade there There is also an Old Custom house but of little Note In Alexandria there is a Mount made of Ancient Ruins on which stands a square Tower and a Sentinel who puts out a Flag so soon as he descrys a Sail and every Vessel coming into the Port pays him something All Officers here depend on the Bassa of Aegypt who places and displaces them at his pleasure The Walls of this Town have Fals Brays and are flanked with great square Towers about 200 Paces distant one from another and a little Tower between every two of them in each of the great Tower there is a large square Hall the Vault of it supported by Pillars of Thebaick Stone and a great many Chambers above and over these a large Platform of 30 Foot Square and each of these anciently were able to maintain 200 Men the Walls are very thick and every where Port-holes in them these Castles have Cisterns replenished with Water but most part of those that encompassed the ancient Alexandria as it was in its Former Extent and Lustre are ruined by the length of Time and neglect of Repair but if the Turkish Officers catch an European Christian in these Towers they presently charge him as a Spy come to view the strength of the Town and then nothing but Money will release him from Punishment Near this Town is the famous Pillar of Pompey so much celebrated by Historians
Weather it is put into a Grave in a few days but in the hard Weather when the Ground cannot be dug they pile the Bodies up in a House they call God's House and when the Season is practicable every one fetches away his Dead and buries it The Muscovites are generally very Corpulent and of a large size strong and of late grown Dexterous in the feats of Arms particularly Fire-arms they have abundance of great Ordinance some carrying Bullets two foot Diameter They are curteous to Strangers unless they get in Drink and then they are very Rude and Mischievious and this they often do for the Men and Women are excessive Drinkers so that many have been Murthered by them in their drunken Revels before Dinner they usually drink a Cup of Aquavitae which they say gets them a good Appetite and after Dinner carouse stoutly of Meath and other strong Liquors and then â—o to sleep on Benches The better sort wear exceeding Rich Garments as Scarlet or Velvet lined with Furs down to their Ancles loose like the Greeks and under them Vests or Wastcoats of Cloath of Gold or Silk Imbroidered the Scull of the 12 Caps Imbroidered with Gold Silver or precious Stones according as they are able and over it a Cap or Bordering of Sables Ermin Minever or the like the Women unless Head attire are cloathed almost like the Men with open Sleeves down to their Fingers they wear Girdles Imbroidered or Plated with Gold and Silver but with the poor Mousack or Country Peasant tho' he keeps the Fashion it is as hard as with us his Garments are course Cloath or Sheepskin with the Wool on but every one has a differently suiting to Winter and Summer for in the Latter Season it is very hot more then commonly in England yet it lasts but June July and August They much delight in Musick tho' it be but Indifferent for I heard nothing like that of other nations whilst I remained amongst them as for Learning the lower degrees affect it not addicting themselves to Husbandry and Handicrafts very obedient they are to their Prince never disputing his Commands or Injunctions what ever they be paying their Taxes and Customs tho' somewhat heavy very chearfully If in a Law controversie the Judge cannot decide it he demands if they will kiss the Cross on their Affirmation or denial if the Defendant does it he is acquitted of his Debt or Injury done if both require it then they draw Lots and he that has the better Lot is only allowed it and concluded to be in the right But in Criminal matters they use Tortures and those very severe ones to extort confessions but if the party hold out against them he is acquitted They have one sort of Execution very odd which is by putting Criminals under the Ice to be smothered in the Waters but cannot be done at all times wherefore they have many more as Hanging and the like These are the Principal matters I observed or was Informed of in this Country worthy to be placed in a History of this Nature and now fearing to be Winter locked after my having been in so many warm Regions I bethought me of Removing nearer home because the cold Season was approaching wherein I was very sensible it would be very Incommodious for a Stranger to travel in these parts and therefore I took an opportunity of a Caravan going for Poland part of which Country I passed but had little or no time to take a survey of it only thus much I shall say in General The Borhistenes bounds it from the Muscovite Empire on the East on the West it has the Vistual on the North the Baltick Sea and Sinus Trinitus on the South Hungary and is divided into 10 Provinces viz. Luconia Lithunia Vollina Samogita Pedelia Russia Nigra Podlasia Mosovia and Poland and the Latter giving the Country it s generally accepted Name These Provinces are Branched with several Navigable Rivers as Vistua Raben Bog Mimel its Metropolis is Cracow or Craconia where usually the King has his Residence It is an Elective Kingdom and at present the Regal Lot by free choice of the Nobility and Gentry is fallen on the Vallian and Renowned Duke of Saxony who is crowned King of Poland and has received the Homage of the greater part of the Poles Cracow is Scituate on the Banks of the River Vistua Navigable 400 Miles being as it were Encompassed with distant mountains and fortified with strong Walls the Buildings are very fair This Country produces Tar Rosin Pitch Wax Honey Barly Oats Amber Tallow Hides Minerals and other Commodities and therein by Trading are found the Commodities of divers other Nations we stayed not here but passing some other Province Entred Germany by the Way of Hungary Austria c. This Famed Empire is bounded on the North with Denmark and the Danish Seas on the East with Prussia Poland and Hungary on the South with the Alps on the West with Flanders Holland c. The Cities and Towns of this Empire may be properly divided into 3 parts as first the Hans Towns that enjoy large Previledges and Immunities about 70 in Number 2. Those called Imperial Cities by reason of their great Privileges above the rest in Coining Money bargaining acknowledgement of Subjection unless to the Emperour whom they acknowledge their Protector and pay him Annual Tribute so And 3dly those under the Electoral Princes which are commonly called Principalities the chief Rivers are the Danube and Rhine the first runs about 1500 Miles and receives 58 Navigable Rivers to swell its Stream and at last falls into the Black Sea the second passes thro' Germany and Belgia 800 Miles and falls into the German Ocean This large Country produces Silver Mines Copper Lead Tin Iron Corn Wine Allum Quick Silver Linnen Woollen Linnen-Stuffs Silks store of Cattle and many other Commodities and from hence by Land and Water I reached the Low Countries and briefly I so directed my way that I cam to Amsterdam the chief trading City in the Province of Holland It is seated on the River Tay which on the North side of it flows like a large Sea when on the South the River Amster running through 3 Lakes entereth its Streets and falleth into the River Tay and by the Addition of a new City to the old it is become very Commodious and Strongly fortified and in it are to be found the Commodities of almost all Nations tho' the Country produces nothing very considerable of its own but these things come by Navigation for most of the Inhabitants are Merchants who 's Goods are brought by Vessels to their Doors and Warehouses and the People are generally Frugal Industruous and Rich. CHAP. XXI A Voyage from Amsterdam in Holland to Cales in the Spanish Dominion and Thence to America giving an Account of what happened on the Sea and in some Islands touched at c. BEing at Amsterdam I began seriously to consider of my Travels and whilst I Ruminated
the Woods to gather wild Fruit for tho' we searched and stayed for them they returned not nor could be found which made the rest more cautious to venture too far Leaving this Island we Sailed within sight of the Land of Puerto Rico and then of St. Domingo a very large Island and here the Ships separated to the several Ports they were bound as Havana Honduras Jucatan and others yet we kept together 4 Sail being bound for the Mexicaian Province and came into the Sound where we found the Sun it being in August exceeding hot and afflicted us the more because we were becalmed and one of the Sailers in the Evening leaping into the Sea to cool himself by Swiming was unfortunately seized on by a Monsterous Fish which they called a Tiburon a kind of Crocadil that pulled him under Water and devoured him who 's surprizing Tragedy became a warning to the rest yet hoping to be revenged we let down two large Hooks fastned back to back with a strong Rope and Baited with a stone of flesh and took one of these Fish but not the Murderer as we found by his Gorge when we opened him he was as much as Sixteen men could Hawl on the Deck tho' they let down a noose Rope under him to hold him fast hampered he proved to be 12 yards long and being killed the Spaniards cut him up and salted part of his flesh which had something of the Tast of Beef in it being very firm and hard and soon after a fresh gale Springing up and we had sailed a few Leagues the man at the Topmast-head cryed out Land which did not a little rejoyce us for the hot weather on those broad Seas had rendred us faint and sickly but it being near Sunset and the Coast dangerous to enter on in the night time we lay off till the next morning and then stood into a part rockey on either side and presently discovered it to be Vera Crux otherwise called St. John d' Vlliua and came so near in 6 Fathom Water that by a Cable we fastned our Ship that entered foremost by Cable Ropes to the Rings that were placed for that purpose in the Wall of the Fort which we saluted with our Guns In this place Hernando Cortz the famous Spanish Captain first entered when he made his Conquests in Mexico sinking his Ships that his Souldiers might be the more resolute in the undertaking as having all hopes of returning cut off and with a Handful of men did such Exploits that made the World Amazed and this being the Port to which our Ships were bound we went Ashoar CHAP. XXII Travels from St. John D' Ulha to the great City of Mexico describing the Towns in the Way Countries lying about them with many other things and Relations Antient and Modern from the first Conquest made by the Spaniards to this present time THE proper name of this Sea-port Towns is St. John d' Vlha the other Vera Crux being given to it from the old Haven or Harbour of Vera Crux lying 6 Leagues from it for that proving dangerous for Ships to ride at Anchor in by reason of the violent North Winds it was forsaken and the Spaniards removed hither as being more safe by the means of a Rock which skreens off that Wind and here were the first Majestrates Judges Aldermen and Officers of Justice named Great was the Concourse of the People when we landed and the Religious who have Monasteries here received us in procession because they understood there were some Missionaries on board sent out of Spain to assist in converting the Indians and upon the Account of some of them who took particular notice of me during the Voyage I had a very good Lodging appointed me and great Feasting was made with store of Fowl and Fish of which the Country is very plentiful and as a last Course Sweet meats and Chocolett were brought in Te Deum was sung in the Cathedral Church and some Shows presented but my mind being bent an other way I little minded these things I rested the day of Landing with my Companions and the next took a survey of the Town and places about it I compassed it in 3 quarters of an hour and found the Scituation to be on Sandy ground except on the South West where it is Moorish and full of noisome Bogs at a little distance which in hot weather causes it to be somewhat unhealthy the People in it are generally Rich and the Inhabitants may as near as I could compute be between 3 or 4000. The Houses Churches and Cloisters are mostly built with Timber the Streets are few yet have intercourse by narrow Lanes or other passages so that it has been often much Indamaged by Fire The Trade is considerable there from Mexico as being the convenientest part also from Cuba St. Domingo Jucatan Portoello and by the way of the latter from Peru Cartagena and all the Islands lying on the North Sea There is a Castle on the Entrance founded on a Rock and another Rock that makes the Entrance of shipping unacquainted with the Harbour very difficult each are the chiefest Strength of the Town and under these the Ships lie safe at Anchor sheltred against the fury of the North Wind which is many times there very violent so that the Houses in the Town Rock and Totter exceedingly that the Strangers conclude they are falling on their Heads The next day I found a great many Mules brought by the Owners to be Lett to such as had a mind to leave the place and Travel further I embraced this opportunity and sent on Board to bring my Baggage on Shoar which I Laded on one of them and retained another to ride on and so taking leave of those whose Business or Curiosity detain'd them longer I set forward to visit Mexico a famed City and the chiefest in these parts but at a considerable distance from St. John de Vellun The Road from hence for three or four Leagues I found very Sandy but open and convenient for Travelling and without meeting with any thing remarkable I came to Oldvera Crux Inhabited by Spaniards and Indians the Indians met us a considerable way from the Town and offered us all the kind respect imaginable sounding their rustick Musicks and Dancing before us Tuning their Voices which was more Melodious than their Musick and indeed entring the place we were very civily receiv'd as Strangers the people crowding to ask what News from Spain and of the Affairs of Europe we satisfy'd their Curiosity as well as the time would permit and then they brought us Flowers and Sweet-meats and we presented them with divers European trifles of which they seem'd very fond rather for the sake of whence they came than for their value They Conducted us to the Market-place which is in the middle of the Town and made Arbours of green Boughs under two large spreading Elmes for us to repose in and refresh our selves and
liberty of Conscience to all Strangers and there are at Ispahan a great many Jews Banians Guebres and Armenians who pursue their several Tenents They have a great many Horses Mules and Camels at all Seasons and though these things are here set down many of the Particulars may serve in General for all Persia and therefore having been detained in this City too long I fear from the intended Travels I now take my leave of it to proceed on my Journey CHAP. XV. Travels from Ispahan to Ormus and Bassaru in the Persian Gulf with an Observation of many Places and Things by the way of Persia in General c. HAving stayed about 4 Months at Ispahan I resolved to visit Schiras and took the opportunity of a Caravan then setting out we parted early in the Morning and journied South-east meeting in our way with large Plains very barren some of these produced pieces of Salt Earth made by the Salive part of the Ground and the working of the Rain on it and this being refined makes good Salt leaving these Plains we encountered with Hills very difficult to pass because though not high they were Rockey and very Slippery so that many of the Mules cast their Burthens which proved very troublesome to us and took up much time to reload them but having passed these Hills we came to Mayar a ruined Village which is the beginning or entrance into the Country of Fars the real Ancient Persia and there we lodged in a Kervanserai and going from thence had for a good way a pleasant Country on either side of us fruitful in Trees and Corn Ground but meeting with a Chan and his Harams or Women we were forced to fetch a compass to give free Passage for these great Governors in their Provinces are as Absolute as a King and will have their Commands as strictly obeyed It will be in a manner endless to tell you all the Villages Hills Plains Valleys and Rivers by their Names that we passed in this long and tedious Journey therefore for brevity sake in a tired condition I hasten as fast as I can to Schirars This City is the Metropolis of the Ancient Persia some will have it to be the Ancient Cyropolis the Gates we enter'd at were very Fair and Stately leading to a broad Street bordered with Gardens and at the end of it is a large Stone Bason full of Water to refresh Travellers further there is a Bridge with 5 Arches under which runs a small River and a little beyond a covered Bazar and though this Street is very fair and long it is accounted only the Suburb to the City It lies in a pleasant fertile Plain at the East of it where is a little Hill covered with Orange and Lemon Trees intermixed with Cypresses It lies from North to South and is about two Hours walk in Circumference It has many fair Mosques and a Colledge in it There are Sallaries allowed to divers Learned Men in the latter to teach Theology Philosophy and Physick and sometimes there are 4 or 500 Students in the it The Gates are laid over with blue Earth varnished shining like Saphires The Gardens are exceeding pleasant adorned with Fruits Flowers Canals Fountains and Summer-Houses on little raised Mounts but many of the Houses are ruinous for the Persians are very Supine in repairing decayed Fabricks This is a City of great Trade in comparison of many others by reason the Indian Merchants bring the rich Commodities of that Country hither There is a Well of a vast depth and circumference into which they throw Women convicted of Adultery and there suffer them miserably to Perish it is cut all out of a hard Rock A little distant there is a stately Mosque and in it the Tomb of Scheik Sadi an excellent Persian Poet whom they Honour as a Saint There is a Well not far from this and a Stream running under it full of Fish which none may take on pain of Death unless the Dervish who looks after it connive at them which he will do for a little present and keep off all Spies by pretending there are Women in the Wells and then the Men run away as from some fearful Monster One goes down to it by a pair of Stairs There is much Glass made in this City they make a Glass Bottle called a Caraba that will hold near 30 Quarts covering them with Cane or Straw and here is to be found the best Wine in the Kingdom they have abundance of Capers plenty of Rose-Water and preserve Grapes for the whole Year A Vizar Governs here as the King's Farmer and pays yearly 1000 Tomans amounting to 15000 Crowns We stayed here but 2 Days and then set out for Lar in our way to Bender and passing over Plains Hills and Rivers meeting by the way whole Families of Arabs driving their Cattle we arrived there This Town is small and seated on a Rock it is Commanded by a Chan who has a stately House with a Divan it has a fine Market-place a Bazars and a Castle the last is very strong and built all of Stone There are a great many Jews inhabit and drive a considerable Trade here all the Country about Lar is full of Tamarisks that are very large here and in most parts of Persia the Sparrows being in great numbers destroy and wast the Fruits of the Earth exceedingly Taking a good refreshment in this Town we took our way through a Country much like the former we had passed since our leaving Ispahan and by tiresome Journeys came to Bender-Abassi where we no sooner entred but were carried to the Custom-House and had our Goods searched in our way I should have told you grew poysonous Plants of which a strange story goes viz. That if any Man comes near them in June ot July when South Winds from the Sea blows upon them they send forth such a poysonous Vapour which drawn in with the breath causes the Body all over to be in a burning heat and immediately the Party dies so that in those Months the way is little frequented The Persians affirm this for Truth and call the plants Kherzehreb but this infection is rather concluded by the Judicious to be in that Wind they call the Burying-Wind This Town is very little govern'd by a Chan and is of a prodigious Traffick as being commodiously Scituated for Trade the Schah Bender is the chief Custom-House Officer part of which Customs belong by right to the English by a Contract when they assisted the Persian King in taking Ormus but they have been much defrauded and reap litlit benefit It has only one publick Gate a Bazar and a Fort to the Sea-side which is a square Platform of about 4 Fathom each Face and 2 in heighth there not being above 5 or 6 Port-holes for great Guns the English and Dutch have their Houses by the Sea-side and the proper Flags of the Nations fixed on Poles on the Tarrasses to direct Ships thither About 2 Leagues